Shunting

On Melbridge dock, a Class 01 diesel, built from a Judith Edge etched brass kit propels a shunters truck made from a long forgotten whitemetal kits. In the background is a vanwide from Parkside Dundas.

The boxes and barrels are from Kibri (now available from Knightwing), the people from Langley. The warehouse is scratchbuilt from Dalerboard and plastic sheet.

Track is SMP code 75 rail soldered to PCB sleepers. Cobbles from Slaters Plasticard. Point lever, a whitemetal item from Springside.

Nothing in this picture is RTR, even though it is all OO.

If you want to see this in the flesh, head over to the Leamington & Warwick MRC exhibition this weekend.

Inside the engine shed

After escaping the cannibalism of the Holyhead Breakwater Railway, 01 001 finds a safe haven at Melbridge Parva shed. All appears safe - while the building has long since lost its doors, at least there is an inspection pit and some tools so the little engine feels that they must care for locomotives here.

The loco is a Judith Edge kits 01 built here. The safe shed was Airfix although it's been heavily modified. Those missing doors have gone in to the bin because they are a terrible fit and stop a long way from the ground. The photo is one of a set taken for Modelling British Railways Diesel Locomotives but I decided that while pretty, it doesn't fit the bookazine, so you get to see it here instead.

01 Diesel in Railway Modeller

Tucked away at the back of this months Railway Modeller magazine is a little picture of my 01 Diesel along with a rather more impressive LNWR Teutonic.

This isn't tied to a massive article, just a mention of the Double O Gauge Association modelling competition results. I sent a CD of the photos over to the editor after the event and he's managed to squeeze a couple in.

For a fuller list and photos, visit the Association Website

1 2 3

Now the 01 diesel is finished, the last job is to entomb it in the stockbox. As I searched for space in there, I couldn't resist photographing this line-up.

From the left:

Class 01 - Judith Edge etched brass kit.

Class 02 - Craftsman Models Etched Brass kit

Class 03 - Ancient Mainline RTR loco

One day I'll do the full 1-10 set but for that to happen, I need to re-build the 05 chassis, buy an 09 (Please Hornby, do BR blue livery) and convert an 08 to a 10. It's not much of a dream, but one day...

Class 01 Diesel shunter

Yesterdays black paint needed a second coat to build up some colour depth but after that, things were plain sailing.

I couldn't resist numbering it as the very first loco in the TOPS list - 01 001. Those wearing tweed anoraks will point out that this loco barely ran before being confined to shed and canibalised for parts to keep 01 002 running, but as I always say, it's my train set and I'll do what I want with it. And I want 001.

The livery itself is accurate. The locos were given new numbers and wasp ends but never repainted from the all-over black first applied when new. The old style BR crest was also a feature to the end. It was a really old style version as the lion, or ferret, faced the front on each side of the machine. This stpooed when it was pointed out that the two crests were technically different and would need to be registered with the Heladry people seperatly.

My numbering comes from a very old sheet of rub-down transfers bought from Howes when they were based in the centre of Oxford. Amazingly they still work but using them is a bit fraught as you only get one go. Mind you, a sensible person would have applied the digits to some transparent backing film and then slid this in place. In one step it would make lining them up easier and replicated the black patch over the original numbers on the real locos. I was not that clever.

Transfers on and the model was sprayed with satin varnish and then wafted over with various greys and browns. I may well attach it futher in the future but for now, it looks fine to me. The prototypes wern't that dirty although possibly less shiny than my model. On the other hand, my version is less battered and it's staying that way !

All in all, this is a very nice kit. It goes together logically, all the bits fit perfectly. I look forward to running it on the layout in the future.

Sometimes, brushes are better than spray guns

Now the wasp stripes are on and varnished, it's time to turn to the main body of the 01 diesel. This is to be painted black.

Simple enough you might think except that I don't want to risk the lovingly applied stripes. In theory, a little masking would allow me to spray with impunity (actually black paint but you know what I mean) but the very real life the handrails get in the way. Tape won't bend around them properly and I'm terrified of lifting off the stripes by pushing it too hard against the body. But if I don't do that, the spray could get underneath and ruin them.

Solution - it's a black loco and Humbrol's matt version is an excellent brushing paint. I'll do it by hand. Once the thing gets a spray of varnish, no one will ever notice.

The paint wasn't in the best of conditions but a little thinners sorted that out. I know a new pot would have made more sense but then so would not trying to finish the model for a competition. After the first coat, you can see in the photo that things weren't perfect but no bad either. I thin remembered all the bits that were supposed to be stuck on after the stripes and will need to be black too.

Wasp stripes

There isn't anything worse for the model locomotive painter to encounter than wasp stripes on the end of an engine. Lining, well, it's fiddly but if thin, hopefully acceptable.

Strips happen in some of the densest detailing on a model, have to be even, regular and any error shows up for all to see.

I looked around a lot for a solution for the 01. In the past I've marked the model up with pencil and carefully painted the black. Then touched up with yellow (which never covers well). Then a bit more black. Repeat until screaming ab-dabs set in.

Ian Rathbone, in his excellent book, suggests a method involving painted transfer paper cut into 2mm stripes and slid on the model like a transfer. I gave it a go and the results aren't bad.

The correct colour. Or not.

Should you use paint that comes in "authentic" colours or not ?

I have mixed feelings on the subject. Most of the time I'm too lazy to go to the shop and too stingy to spend the money on buying the real thing. A close-ish match from the Humbrol range will do me thank you very much. Given a coat of grime, only idiot pedants will disagree and face the pointy stick of doom from behind the layout at shows.

One exception is warning yellow. Humbrol produce a perfectly acceptable yellow, several in fact, but none quite looks right. On the prototype it's a slightly green shade whereas the nearest equivalent doesn't have this. To be honest, it's a subtle distinction and the requisite grime will probably hide the "error".

You have also to bear in mind that most train sets aren't viewed in daylight. Mine appear under normal incandescent lights and even if I swapped to daylight balanced ones, the light spill from the rest of the hall negates the effect. Only once have I seen a serious effort to deal with this issue but it came at the cost of a lighting control box the size of the model and even then couldn't defeat the sunshine through the windows facing the display.

Anyway, what I'm saying is that the yellow used is from Railmatch whereas the red buffer beams are Humbrol. Not quite right but I've never modelled a clean bufferbeam and don't plan to start now.

01 Diesel - Buffers on

There is a point in any kit build when you put all the bits together without fixing them and the model you are aiming for is revealed. Up to that point you've probably got more bits on the etch or sprue than on the model and have to focus on relatively small areas.

For me, the "coming together" point on a model locomotive usually coincides with the buffers being attached to the beams. Something about the stubby housings sticking out from the buffer beam seems to work in my head. I'm not a buffer buffer by any means - as long as they look sort of right I'm happy - but they still matter. Heaven knows what I'll do when making American engines with their filthy foreign knuckle couplings.

Anyway, the 01 is there now. It looks like the locos I have pictures of. The running is acceptable and will improve with usage. I'm on the home straight. There's still a bit of detail to apply but at least it's now 01 shaped.

Drive crank saga

Now for my least favorite part of building the 01 diesel - the drive cranks.

While the real loco might consider them a vital part of the drive train, on a model the whirly bits behind the cab steps are just along for the ride and not as helpful passengers. Decorative they might be, but they have the potential to hobble an otherwise nice chassis.

Building commences with laminating 4 layers of brass together to make each crank. Then the hole for the pin is opened out to size (1.3mm drill bit) and because I was feeling like doing a proper job, tapped to 10BA. Which promptly peeled the layers apart at one end. Not to worry, clean the swarf out and re-solder then all is fine.

Trouble started when I had to press the crank onto the shouldered axle. The first side is simple enough - trap the lot in a vice and squeeze. Crank 2 is a different matter as this has to be done with the chassis and all the bushes in place. With everything lined up I started to squeeze - at which point the crank fell off and vanished.

2 hours searching failed to find it. This included lifting a floorboard to see if it had managed to work through a gap a tenth of the size of the bit of metal.

According the kit instructions, you have to chose the set of crank etches you require from Romford or finescale. I had plumped for the former since those were the wheels I was using. In desperation I looked at the spare bits. As far as I could tell, the only difference was that the throw on the finescale versions was between 1/2 and 1mm smaller.

So, I made up another crank and soldered some wire into the hole for the pin. Then the new measurements were transferred from the existing crank using a par of compasses. This was drilled, tapped and squeezed on. The vice was spun around so anything falling off ended up on the modeling board and not the floor !

To keep the cranks the correct distance from the chassis I used some top hat bearings with the "brim" cut off. Had my measurements been a touch more accurate and I wouldn't have bothered with this as a couple of washers were then required to get things perfect.

After a bit of tweaking and much reaming out of the rods, the who lot rotates and doesn't seem to impede movement. A good thrash on the running in rolling roads seems to show all OK. Phew !

ABS wheels + soldering iron = BAD

Scale Link mode locomotive wheels. What an innovation. Just like Romfords down to the square ended axle and retaining nut. The only difference is that the metal centre is moulded in ABS plastic. The good news is that this drops the price by 2/3rds.

Woo hoo.

Of course if you don't remember that you thought you'd try them when you bought the kit then things can go awry.

I'm sure the instructions say to use the threaded Romford crank pins but I've long since lost those. I didn't think my stash included a set of these until a few days after I realised I needed them. Instead, I soldered the retaining washer on as per normal. Well I tried to. In my defence it's not obvious you have plastic wheels and not black painted metal ones like you used to get a few years ago.

If you are quick with the soldering iron, a skilled worked probably could get away with the standard  retaining washer. I wasn't quick enough. Result: a sunken crank pin and a previously good running chassis hobbling like a three legged donkey. Compare the left (good) and right (bad) cranks in the photo above for all the warning you require.

Guess who has a new set of metal wheels on order ?

Mattness required

All soldering done, the 01 chassis was cleaned and primed. Then a coat of weathered black paint applied by hand (I like the thicker coat on the underframe and even if I didn't, the garage was too cold and damp to spray in).

The next day. Oh dear. I don't know why but I have shiny weathered black. Not what I was hoping for at all.

I did consider stripping the chassis back to metal but before such a drastic measure, decided to try a good waft of Testors Dullcote and sticking the thing in a box overnight to dry properly. In the morning, I the stuff had, for a change in my hands, done exactly what it said on the tin and my chassis no longer gleamed. Phew !

How to solder something very small

Where the brake hanger wires emerge from the chassis on the 01 diesel, there is a little plate. In 4mm scale it's about 2mm square (OK, triangular). This has to be fitted or the chassis won't appease the finescale gods. Doing this initially appeared tricky.

The problem is that solders goes where you don't want it and in this case, that meant the front face of the plate all over those lurvely rivets.

But, after a good strong cup of tea, the solution to the problem occurred to me. What I did was fit the wire through the chassis. Flux it both inside and outside the frames. Slide the plate over up to the frame and then solder inside the chassis.

Result: The solder flowed through the hole in the chassis and spread around the inside back of the plate. Just enough made it, something I suspect is controlled by capillary action or other science, to fix the item without covering it. This worked so well I did the other three plates like this, all look fine and needed no cleaning up. Excellent.

Keeping the 01 Diesel on the rails

The arrival of the Modern Locomotives Illustrated on shunters nudged me into doing something about the 01 diesel that's been sat on my shelf for too long in brass. Perusing the instructions I can't work out where I should be so I decided that as the chassis was obviously unfinished I'd start there.

At each end of the beast, there are these beams to assist in re-railing it if it leaves the track. I'm fascinated by the idea that the trackwork in some yards was so rough that they expected to be shoving the loco back on a regular enough basis to warrant modifying it to make life easier.

To etches are supplied for this - one for P4 models 'cos they will fall off a lot, and one for OO and EM versions with those coarse flanges. Each part is in two bits. The back vertical and the front with the half etched plates above the beam. Assembly is easy apart from forming the bottom bend. There's not much to grab hold of so I started it in the hold'n'fold and finished with some square ended pliers which I find grip better.

After this, the verticals are soldered to the chassis using some half etched lines as a guide. With the minimum of solder, they look very nice with little cleaning up around the fiddly bits.

I wonder if I should insulate the beam to stop it shorting the rails if the loco comes off ?

Handrails and grab handles

There's not a lot of detail on the 01 but what there is, is a plethora of handrails and door handles. For such a small loco, it does seem over-supplied with these things. A big steam engine doesn't have nearly as many !

All of this detail comes from an Alan Gibson packed of 0.45mm wire. I know some stuff is provided with the kit but I instinctively reach for the supplies in a pot within reach of the workbench. Not that there is anything wrong with the wire that comes with the kit - a stout cardboard box ensures that it gets to the builder nice and straight, unlike some kits where the lengths are stuffed into a container slightly too small and take on an annoying bend. The leftovers go back in the same packet if they are long enough to be useful. Id not its the brass leftovers drawer for them.

Spacing from the body was set using a bit of melamine trim filed down slightly to reduce its thickness. Being thin and heat-proof, it's idea for the job. Placed against the body side followed by the wire and then a bit of lolly stick to protect my fingers from the heat, the 'rail is held securely enough for me to be able to solder from the inside with aplomb. Clever chaps would clamp this lot together and not risk their fingers.

A nice detail is that the bonnet handrails are held on with the correct form of handrail knob. Not for this diesel the standard ball-type version found on steam engines but the prototypical stub of metal with a hole through the side. I suspect that on the real thing it was cheaper to manufacture them this way and they certainly provided less dirt holding nooks and crannies. If you want to buy some yourself (mine came with the kit), try Markits who have made them for a few years.

Finally, I know the bonnet handles are different lengths. I make them long and will crop them back later. Just didn't get around to it before taking the photo.

01 Roof

More nifty design on the Judith Edge 01 diesel kit - the roof.

I've had plenty of "issues" with model diesel locomotive roofs in the past. Several of my models are running around with something other than the kit part on top as it's either too small or I screwed up the fitting. At least one whitemetal kit had a lid that far too narrow...

Anyway, I wasn't wild about this one. Although relieving lnes are etched into the back of the cabside tops, my efforts and bending these over didn't look great, but I pressed on anyway with a mix of stupidity and optimism.

As it was, things have turned out OK. The centre section drops in between the sides and solders in place from the underside - the cab floor is separate don't forget. Then the wire rain strips are added which cover the join. Simple, and to fair not unique to this kit, but effective. Any gaps or poor alignment is hidden. You can even emery paper the curve over the top before you do this to make it nice and consistent. Another horrid trick I do sometimes, but don't tell anyone.

Cab controls

Back inside the 01 diesel locomotive, we have the cab interior. The control desk is a simple enough fold-up construction. Surface detail is laminated onto a thicker brass box. Looking at the photos I can find, I'm not sure how accurate everything is here but I'm no expert and anyway, once the roof is on and the windows glazed, no-one will be able to see.

The sides of the raised section are left empty but I reckon it might be possible to see that this isn't a solid item so I filled them in with a little bit of scrap etch. I'm a bit surprised that this part wasn't supplied as a resin part - it could easily have been glued in after painting. The handles, made from wire and soldered in here, could still be glued in.

The seats are a masterpiece of design and incorporate the rail along the cab wall that allowed the bases to flip up. Very clever. To clever for me. I gummed the lot up with solder and decided that it would be just as easy to fix the base to the wall without the fiddly bits. Making working seats I leave to people who can't grasp that the roof will be very firmly soldered down and the doors don't open...

Clever chassis cutout mystery solved

In the 01 diesel chassis frames were a couple of odd cutouts in the top edge. I had a good look at the plans but couldn't see why they were there. In fact, I had a good old think and they remained a mystery.

Then I built the body and plonked it on the chassis and all became clear. They are there to clear the bolt heads that hold the bonnet/cab assembly to the footplate.

That's a really clever detail. You can't see them when the loco is the normal way up so there's no need to solder the two lumps together and then remove them. I like this sort of thinking a lot. It's the sort of thing that encourages confidence in the rest of the range. Well, if I didn't look at the rest of Mike Edge's kits and want to build them all anyway !

Shoehorn that motor

Returning to the 01 diesel, I've been assembling the sub-assemblies to see if they will fit around the motor. The good news is that with only a hint of fettling (read: filing the sides of the footplate hole), everything goes together OK.

There is a cab floor to go in and fill the hole. Working out how this went together made me scratch my head quite a bit, then I looked at the parts and realised that that was what those half etched lines are for ! Basically you build a little stage that fits over rails on the floor. I'm not sure I just helped you with that description but you'll know what I mean when you see it.

Anyway, next up I think will be the cab interior which is a mix of soldered brass and resin bits. I'm going to keep dry-assembling stuff as the roof has to be fitted in place soon and that will stop me painting the inside unless it goes in from under the bottom.

Bonnet building

Reading the 01 diesel instructions (yes, really !) the bonnet doors can be attached before or after bending the thing to shape. I looked at the half etched area they were to be fitted into and decided that if I tried bending before fitting, the result would be a mangled mess. Sometimes you need structural strength in a part before you mess with it.

Or at least I do. Reading on, it's assumed that you bend then fit, but that must the way the good modellers work.

Anyway, the doors are soldered from the back through holes in the sides. To assist alignment, the handle holes are etched through both parts and so if you line them up, the part is in the right place.

Bending the wrapper is more interesting. I tried bending using the half etched relieving lines on the back as a guide but this didn't work very well. To be honest I'm not good at getting bends in the right place and having bomped a load if rivets in the sheet didn't help as attempts with pliers were hindered by me not wanting to flatten them again.  Using the front as a former worked well though and after a little tack soldering all appeared well - or at least the wrapper stopped at the end of the former as it should.

With the doors in place, access to solder the top to the plate is limited but enough for big blobs of molten metal to be flung in place.

The fuel tank hump former were fitted even through you are told not to use the back one as it gets in the way of the motor. Anticipating this I'd hacked a hole out of it the same size as the one I'd already put in the cab. These set the width of the bonnet and keep everything in line.

Provision is made for separable bonnet & cab assemblies but even the instructions say this is a bit pointless. I suppose if you like to display your model in bits it's OK but with livery being plain black or green, there's no other reason.

Finally fitting of the bonnet to it's sub-plate took place with the unit removed from the footplate. Access is a little better this way but in the end I carefully worked from the bottom and burnished all the solder away so the thing would screw down properly. If I've not moved any of the fixing nuts that is. I'll find out about that later.