Weathering fit for a layout wagon

To finish off the coal wagon, a bit of weathering. 

I could have got out the airbrush and spent hours with Maskol making rust patches, but I think that is overkill most of the time. Don't get me wrong, done well these effects are brilliant, but for this model, I'm aiming for a generally dirty look rather than a specimen model. I want it to blend into the crowd. 

So, the first stage was a wash of thinned black paint. Once dry, a dry-brush with dark grey over the underframe. Then more dry-brushing with track colour and a bit of rust. Work quickly and the colours blend so nothing stands out. 

Finally, a dust with weathering powder. Quite a bit of Humbrol Smoke, but also dark brown. I work over a plastic tray which gradually fills with mixed powder and am happy to use this as well. Somehow there is a hint of green in there at the moment and it actually works on the model. Not much you understand, just a hint. 

And there we have it. A wagon fit for my layout. Easily achievable, nothing special in the way of materials or tools required either. 

Fitting Sprat & Winkle couplings

I thought I'd fit some S&W couplings to the layout wagons - they are what I use on layout after all!

First, you need a setting up track.

 This is mine, and it must be well over 25 years old. At one end there is a support for the coupling bar so these are at a consistent height. In the middle a magnet for testing and some wires in case I want to run a loco along its short length.

I start by glueing a de-headed dressmakers pin to the buffers. Yes, I know it should be a length of wire and that should emerge from the buffer beam in a U-shape, but this is "quick'n'dirty" coupling fitting. Not finescale, but it works, especially on tight curves where the wire on buffers method allows the coupling hook maximum side slideage.

Superglue is the adhesive for this job. A blob on each bufferhead and then roll the wagon up to the jig on which the pin is balanced.

Next, the hook. This is released from the fret, bent to shape and chemically blackened. You can use paint, but it will chip off. Guess how I know this...

The instructions suggest some bent wire but that never worked for me. Instead, a re-bent staple is pushed through the plastic floor with a soldering iron. Quick, simple and reliable. Practise on a bit of plastic sheet until you get the hang of this.

Once in, the tails inside the wagon with some cutters and you can be confident the thing won't fall out. With practice, you can even re-heat the staple to adjust it. 

Finally, some testing. The chain is attracted by the magnet, pulling the coupling hook down. The chai is from the EM Gauge Society. Not sure if it's still available as I bought several feet years ago and haven't used it all up yet.

Fitting these takes minutes but I find them 90% reliable in use and very robust.

Sprat & Winkle couplings come from Wizard Models.

Layout wagons Part 2 - Lettering

(Photo: Andy York)

Sometimes my model making has had to be done on the cheap and while buying wagon kits wasn't too much of a problem, at least for the little layouts I build, sheets of transfers have been a step too far. I'm sure these have become relatively cheaper over the years!

I also hate applying the things. Fiddling around for ages trying to make rows of numbers line up is not my idea of fun.

So, I developed the idea that as long as the basic shapes were OK, you could get away with wagon numbering applied by brush. I wouldn't do this for a loc, but most people don't scrutinise wagons as closely. Since they will be on the end of a good weathering, this hides things even more.

This can be seen in the photo above. The letters and numbers are a long way from perfect but on the layout, with things moving around and so much to look at, hardly anyone spots it. A good result and since pots of Humbrol 147 are cheaper than transfers, a saving for me.

More recently, I realised that Geoff Kent was doing a similar thing. He applies his wagon numbering with a mapping pen and white ink.

Well, if it's good enough for finescale royalty, it's good enough for me.

A trip to an art shop furnished me with the requisite tool and material and for the last few years, I've been learning penmanship skills. OK, I'm a looooongway from Geoff's abilities, but it's a step up from what I did before, still cheap and once weathered, will look fine.

Even when the effects of the rhubarb cider have worn off. 

Layout wagons Part 1

Needing a couple of wagons for filming a few weeks ago, I dug in the back of the cupboard and pulled out some Parkside kits - a 25.5ton coal wagon and plywood sided van.

After a pleasant evening sticking them together - I'd forgotten just how much simply assembling these kit is - they were ready for the studio and fulfilled their role admirably.

Back home I was left with two part-finished models and rather than just stick them back in the cupboard as they were, decided to finish them off so at least they can go in the stock box.

I'm going to finish these as what I call "layout wagons".

The best looking model railways, in my opinion, and since this is my blog that's the one that matters, have a consistent standard applied across the whole scene. It annoys me immensely to read a whinge about some tiny detail on a new RTR product, when I can't believe that the writer has built the rest of their layout to the same breathtakingly high standards they are thundering about.

Far better, to pick a lower standard you can work to, and stick to it. This philosophy comes with the added benefit that as long as a loco runs, it's probably going to look fine if manufactured in the last 20 year. Better still, you can build a kit and it will fit right in.

 (Photo: Mike Wild)

I'm not going to claim that Melbridge Dock is the greatest layout ever built, but one thing I was always praised for was consistency. Everything is equally dirty and built a similar standard and I think this works.

So, these wagons aren't going to be the most detailed in the world. I'm not replacing all the underframes and fiddling with the bodies too much, but I bet that on the majority of layouts, no-one would even notice.