Suzanne Thompson

AN ADVENTURE AROUND AUSTRALIA

The right of Suzanne Thompson to be identified as author of this work has been asserted by her in accordance
with section 77 and 78 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior
permission of the publishers.

Any person who commits any unauthorized act in relation to this publication may be liable to criminal
prosecution and civil claims for damages.

A CIP catalogue record for this title is available from the British Library.

ISBN 978 184963 621 6

www.austinmacauley.com

First Published (2014)

Acknowledgments to Gary, my children, Emma and Natasha, and all the kind people who helped us
complete the journey.
 Walking the beach along Crowdy Bay a most beautiful feel of crushed pipi shells beneath my feet,
along with the order and the unconformed patterns left in the sand, by the wind in the pools as I pass them
by, like the scales of a snake or feathers of a bird; such order yet imperfection at the same time.
Not a sign of pollution anywhere, all I see are the tyre tracks, which I feel is an intrusion into this place of
perfections and rare beauty.
An ancient headland uplifted by the forces of volcanic eruptions over 20 million years ago alongside beds
of smooth lava and assorted colours of clays and different textured rocks.
Like a kid in a lolly shop is how I feel when I come upon such wonders.
These deteriorated coastal headlands, each one so different in its geological formation along this exterior
coastal edge of N. S. W. which we travel and then onto explore the rest of the coastal continent.

Camped in this national park. Within a short stroll, protected by sand dunes lies a beach which was once
used for sandmining. Mined for its rutile, and what a strange irony to think that from a place so pure and
beautiful its gifts are transformed into titanium and used to make missiles and spacecraft, as were many
raw sand materials such as this, along with the sand beaches of Rainbow near Fraser Island in Queensland
before Gough Whitlam put an end to it in 1978. And so for now these sands now rest in peace and quiet.
This journey we have embarked on is an exciting one perhaps because it’s all new, each day a new
unfolding experience. Yet I find every new destination in which we set up our camp for a few days seems
more amazing than the previous location.
It was going to be an adventure plus a challenge, this year long trip in our U Bute camper that sits on
the tray of our Hi Lux Ute.
This is our turtle home, and with all its storage, it amazes me and others how all that house folds up
and sits on top, about 8" higher than the metal storage which carries all our gear, like topping on a cake.
When all is set up its quite spacious and homely with the hall runners, dining room, queen bed and 2 metre
x 3 metre spare room space.
 After a brief visit to the Gold Coast and Ballina visiting relatives we found our first camp which was at
a very windswept Redcliff camp ground near Brooms Head N. S. W. Geologically fascinating with rock
strata exposing ancient bedding rocks dating back from when this headland was still connected with
Gondwana; coal layers, mudstones, sandstones, ironstone, basalt, slate any many more. Perched high on
the hill surrounded by wallabies, views of the many migrating whales close to shore, gazing out to the vast
blue Pacific Ocean. A track to ride our push bikes, a tea tree lake behind us, with an added visit from a
dear old friend Kay who just happened to be passing by with a sticky bun who dropped in for a cuppa; seen
our first snake by the bins.
We later unslid the wagon and left it standing on its free standing strong metal legs and drove around a
bleak and grey, rainy Yamba town, and fitted in a wash load and also a recharge of the computer at a
Laundromat. Showers at night, a freezing cold and windy experience although the fire kept me warm
afterwards. We were very happy and excited at this new life that awaited us.
 Red Rock Camp site

Next destination was Gibraltar Range National Park, such a vast difference in temperature. Picked up
supplies in Grafton, a town much more tidied up since my last visit, steeped in Australian history and
shady trees.
The Gwydir Highway wound uphill past rolling green pastures, temperate plants of different shapes
and colours, different from what I am used to in Queensland. . Through the lovely town of Bellingen,
Second camp was a bit more closed in with limited sites, but a roof over the wood pile which we
placed ourselves opposite proved invaluable.
An old slab cabin built by a man called Mulligan who once had grand ideas and dreams of building a
hydro electricity station there and damming the river. Although his original cabin was burnt down and
rebuilt it still retained a small amount of past gone nostalgia and energy, I could imagine it still while
standing beside the stone fireplace. We enjoyed nice long walks and studied the plants, delicate natives I
had never seen before, yet so hardy in such a harsh temperature variation, tea trees with colours of yellow,
pink, purple, blue. Star flowers, white, orange, mauve, out along the escarpment which stood high over a
distant stretching valley, and mountains which went on for miles and miles.
Breathtaking scenery, where deep green valleys of ancient rainforest has stood nestled by the walls,
either side sheltered from extremes of fires and loggers, and weathering a cold and harsh environment as I
stood and gazed upon this wonder in October 2011. One of our most coldest bases in the dismal rain with
ticks latching on, but oh the hot shower was magnificent. Met one of the many lovely fellow campers in
the site next door where we shared tales.
 Such a good feeling to move on as it always is, a new adventure, A trip to Glen Innes for supplies to a
wonderful old charming supermarket in the original old wooden store, surrounded by leadlight window
features as many of Australian buildings once proudly displayed on the shopfront windows. Best lunch at a
pub of lamb chops served with fresh peas and beans- then on to Man River reserve located on the old
Grafton to Glen Innes road once used by strong horses, men and bullocks to transport from the coast, wool,
timber and whatever else was required to build a township at the top of the mountain 1,500 metres above
sea level. These beautiful green pastures nestled by a clear rushing river amidst giant granite boulders left
by an ice age long ago; the crystal clear river which I later discovered from a friend in Armidale presently
has a controversy attached concerning the mining of antimony. I found an interesting stone while sifting
through its sands when sitting in its freezing waters; a quartz chunk laced with peridot. We saw a platypus,
plus a strange little critter between a koala, a possum and a fox which would come past our camp each
night to check us out.

Suzie writing her memoirs where the platypus lived nearby

A day trip into Washpool World Heritage National Park was a delight, quite a good hike, about 8 km,
though the weather was good. Very ancient gums and rainforest mosses and lichens; in all the 2,600
different shades of green that apparently exist I believe. Ticks latched onto both Gary and myself while we
stopped and ate our picnic lunch at the waterfall, luckily Gary got the one from my neck out whole,
although it still caused discomfort for weeks. The one in the back of Gary’s knee gave him a lot of pain
and stress with his leg swelling for days. ,
Through the winding narrow road we made our way to Dalmorton, an old gold mining town; not much
there these days. Through an old tunnel carved out of the rock by convicts; still a few of the old farmers
around with their old houses fading through the times of history. Came out at Nymboida Hotel, where we
had lunch. Owned by Russell Crowe who had preserved its history of when it was once a Cobb and Co
coach stop. Great little museum full of all the memorabilia of his exciting life.
The wonders of the rainforest
 Returning to the coast and the town of Minnie Waters, which held fond memories of years gone by
when we were young and kids were small, still doing the same things as we are doing now really, a simple
and happy life; treasured days in the sands of time gone by, never to return Not much had changed in the
twenty-five years since we last camped there, a few improvements on amenities and camp sites. We made
camp on a beachfront site to gaze upon the rolling waves and view the many whales, one of which came in
so close Gary believed it to be a log floating until it moved, basking in the warm clean shallow waters, safe
from the Japanese whale hunters.
The small hamlet of Wooli had grown a little, houses well maintained and waters still clean and clear. I
was glad to see it was not too developed in its serene sleepiness and hope that it remains that way. Had a
nasty cut on an oyster shell while removing them from the rocks.
Sawtell, a little town just a little further down the road was our next stop. A caravan park with lovely
hot showers and washing machines and a powered site, I was very grateful to get back to a little
civilization once again. , Such a picturesque spot with its lighthouse on the hill; a great area to watch the
passing whales, also a short walk to a township with a few little upmarket cafes and shops. The Sawtell
Cinema is a treasure owned by the same family for its entire life. Around the 1930s I think it began. Burnt
down once years ago and then rebuilt in art deco style and so charming. It was there I watched two movies,
one being Jayne Eyre, with a dear friend Mary, and also Red Dog with a dear husband Gary, a movie
which all dog lovers will enjoy I’m sure.

Moonrise
 Python

Sunrise

Heading up through the beautiful Bellingen Valley, one of my favourite areas in N. S. W,. consisting
of a township which has retained an element of its original style and buildings; a very expensive place to
live these days. On towards Dorrigo and then to Armidale, calling into another little township named
Hillsborough, which did and still mines gold. Arriving at my dear friend’s house where we proceeded to
venture out to a back yard barbie with fresh caught fish and good company and two people who were part
of my six degree of separation world once again.
After our pleasant visit to friend Kay’s - we go back a long time - we then headed out to a place called
Styx River camp area, which borders on the New England National Park, also a World Heritage site.
Located just outside the small hamlet of a town called Ebor which was once had a very different terrain
being in the form of a huge shield volcano 20 million years back; its eruption was similar to the force of
the one Pompeii delivered, although not as populated in these parts.
Ebor has a charming little coffee shop with very friendly owners. Our first night camping was one of
the coldest nights I can remember. When we arrived we had only two other campers at first then within a
few hours it was a school camp with a large group of boys and teachers all over the place for three days.
We had a great spot right by the river. After my nightly shower I rugged up in flannelette pyjamas and
dressing gown which I purchased in Dorrigo op-shop, and had to keep rotating from back to front of fire to
keep warm The following afternoon we rode our pushbikes up to the other campsite, past the friendly cows
and bull near the entrance to The New England National Park.

The following day we rode our bikes up again and parked them behind a small rental forestry hut for
which they charge sixty dollars per night and took a track up behind it into the National Park Lyrebird
Trail, a truly spectacular experience. Ran into a couple along the way who were from Gympie - another six
degree moment;. strangely Gympie people seem to turn up in many places I have travelled. This walk was
through very ancient primordial beech tree forests and stunning sheer cliff walls, covered with moss and
lichens, the air felt so pure and fresh. With every new step I hauled my weary body through being ever
conscious of falling debris from the surrounding mighty walls and gazed out over the eagles’ nest look out
at a view of the seemingly unending Great Dividing Range, Australia’s inland back bone -. complete with
eagle.
 Rainforest Beauties

Moving on along the old Kempsey Rd, which was one of the routes of the long hauls from coast to
mountains, we came across a scenic patch of ground at a place called Georges Junction. We set up camp in
an old river bed on high ground, way above the present flowing watercourse, debris was hanging high in
the trees all around, evidence of past torrential rains and flood waters. A huge storm came in one night and
scared the shit out of me, the noise reverberated all around the surrounding mountains which cradled us in
their crevices. Lightning and heavy rain continued to pummel the canvas all night long. I had my head
buried into Gary’s side under the blankets and could still see the flashes of lightning, the air was alive with
energy. So glad the riverbeds we were camped in were just down from where two forks meet into one and
the river did not rise overnight and carry us away. , Stayed for another couple of days; poured all day and
night. Loved watching the soft white clouds hanging in the creases and folds of the dense green forested
mountains while all around us we could hear the distant slide of rocks and landslides giving way,
continuing to be weathered as they have all throughout time. This area felt very isolated. We walked up the
creeks, passed a red bellied snake about arm’s distance from me, popping out of one of the ledges. I was
not afraid, I felt more privileged to be part of this beautiful isolated piece of paradise with its unique bird
life, sounds and colours.
 In my element walking up a wild creek

Moved on out, lucky no trouble getting up and out of the washed away road which we drove in on to
get there, passing large chunks of rock along the road. The only other vehicles we came across much
further along were a couple of road working machines doing repair to the damaged road and clearing
debris. Not too many people use this road any more as I think it could be quite dangerous, with weathering
walls on one side, and a sheer ledge dropping off the other side, wearing away with each new storm; but
fantastic scenery. From Armidale to Bellthorpe we only passed the two work trucks till we reached
Bellthorpe, a quaint little town I would have liked to stop at. Instead it was lunch in the Kempsey cafe with
all its charm.
 Gary collecting wood for the fire at Georges Junction

Holding a rock up

I am not sure if you believe in orbs or not but strangely if you look really close into this one that
appeared on my photo you can see a face of an old cowboy with his hat like an old bushy Slim Dusty
lookalike, a well known Australian singer. This fire kept us warm and dried out our clothes.
There was one incident while camping at this spot, when I woke to a large cow eating my shirt which I
had soaking in a bucket. She was enjoying it as the soap suds frothed at her mouth, she did not want to let
go of it either though I did get it back.
 Coming down the pass from Georges Junction through partly hand cut rock

Our next stop was the beautiful township of South West Rocks a coastal N. S. W. town; along the way
we drove through townships of Gladstone and looked at Smithton and Hat Head,
We pulled into a bit of luxury, well, my standard of it anyway, which means a laundry and clean
shower block. It was one of those four star big four parks which are usually well kept. It was on the way to
Trial Bay jail, an old remnant of an early prisoner detention centre while the Second World War was in
progress. They helped build a sea wall of which only a small section now remains We rode our bikes into
town, swam in the very chilly ocean, watched whales swimming past and enjoyed what it had to offer. Of
course I found a house that I wanted to buy and live in as I do in many places we visit, it was a pushbike
ride to the waterfront & shop, for $27900. A block of land a few houses away was selling for $38000, one
I must go back to one of these days.
All freshened up and off to Crescent Head. Called in to look at a lighthouse where I felt the presence of
spirits while walking up past the old lighthouse keeper’s place; my suspicions were proved correct when I
spoke to the people who had just been staying in it for the weekend. It had freaked them out they had paid
$ 767 for six of them for two nights. On my bucket list goes that one.
Next camp was by a blocked off river, now privately owned across from the beach. The few other
campsites were crowded, ours was isolated except for one other up behind the trees. On the way we passed
a beautiful python on the road at which I got out and shooed it into the bush in case some stupid idiot
might run it over. After our set up, walked the length of the beach and got back just before a huge storm
hit; great energy in the air and clouds. This place was called Limeburners National Park, and I discovered
later from some interesting old chap I spoke with, it was where they used to make the limestone from the
crushed oyster shells which gave such strength and resilience to the early building materials and mortar.
There we had a nice headland to walk up, hill enshrouded with rainforest. From the top we could still spot
a few whales heading south.
This place was very relaxing yet we did a lot of beach walking, sometimes ten kilometres There were
black swans and other assorted bird life on this lake river inlet. After our four or five days we packed up
and ventured to the next spot. One day we listened to the Melbourne Cup, a famous horse race in Australia,
in the front seat of the car in the pouring rain; too much excitement for one day. Tick bite in my neck was
still very itchy.

Coast from Hill

Our Campsite

Next stop was Wauchope and such a hot day. I had left my hat at a coffee shop in Crescent Head
which was a shame, that hat has travelled all over the world with me. Anyway got another one, got
supplies and drove up towards Ellenborough Camp Ground about thirty kilometres out; great little camp
spot.
But before that we went looking for Werrikimbe National Park and what an adventure that was, up
logging roads, and through some really wild terrain, lot of forest destruction, also many pockets of beauty.
Tried to find Moorebank, then turned around, then tried Yaras and then had to turn around. It seemed like
all our destinations were cut off from us, after being stopped by trees, rocks and dead ends. We found a
place called Wild Bull camp site. It was getting on dark and we felt like we were lost in the woods, on
these really, really bad jagged rocky roads Set up camp in a poky little area, where the tables and chairs
had been hacked to pieces, and a huge quarry full of charcoal lay near; felt really eerie. But the following
morning the creek was so nice to wash in, rinsed my hair and felt like new again after we packed up.
 Nope can’t use this track

After setting up at Ellenborough we had to go into Wauchope once again to get a slow leaking tyre
repaired, which was only $18. 00 but did not last long. .
Our week at Ellenborough was fun, floating down the rapids on my floating surf mat, checking out all
the wild herbs, mullien, opium poppies, nettles, docks, daisys and a million more; it was a beautiful wild
garden. I discovered from one of the locals that it was a camp for people back in the depression days where
many lived. His mother was born there in the 1930s when times were very hard. Not like the leisure
playground it is today with all the travellers and their flash caravans. One rig that was there was enormous,
must have been about $450 grands worth They did not seem to mingle with the others while we were there,
just holed up in their luxury. We met lots of people, a few too many we thought ,who kept yacking as we
were trying to pack and get away. , I think we have been living in this isolation for too long.

Passing scenery

We took a great drive over the back road, called Tom's Creek Road, through some magnificent
scenery, old winding road, past dairy farms all the way up to the plateau of Comboyne where the views
were so fantastic and the air so clean. Had lunch at a cute little cafe, strangely there was no hotel in town, I
am sure in its heyday it must have had a grand old building that perhaps burnt to the ground, as many of
the old hotels did.
 Lunch stop Comboyne cafe

A drive down through to Laurieton on the coast after we had been out to visit the Ellenborough Falls,
very long drive, Falls, out in the middle of nowhere. A few hippy type dwellings about at a place called
Elands, sadly looking wilder than hippies or perhaps I am just changing,. but I think many people are a lot
more messier and don’t care about self pride as much as they used to be.
Down the mountain on the other side, found a lovely swim spot in what was once a well maintained
state park recreation area, with stone steps and bridges and pathways, fast flowing streams with walls on
other side carved from the river’s course, and a huge area of pollution and sludge banked up from someone
damming it with large rocks, which I removed and sent the gunk on its way downstream, allowing the
fresh water to push on through. Now sadly all run down and rubbish left lying about by wild animals of the
human species variety. , We came across an old railway line which once hauled out all the mighty timber
from this area. This was still going on now, by more modern methods.
I also collected a leech on my foot. and watched it swell with my blood till we got back to the car and
sizzled it with a hot match.
Arriving in Laurieton we found a cabin and went out for dinner and did some washing; it was a thrill to
look at a TV again. This is a town we have come to know very well as we think we may retire here
someday.
The following day we decided to go for a drive inland and try to find one of the largest trees in N. S.
W. Unfortunately the signs were not too good and we drove about many back roads and did not find it. I
am sure it’s not going anywhere soon, I will find it one day. I was not feeling very well as I think I may
have poisoned myself trying out all the different weeds in my travels. We went way up to some lookout
which was a wild road, and all fogged out anyway, but the stands of rainforest we did come across, in
between all the logging, was awesome. Giant Red Cedars and Beech trees, quite a magical drive although
very unkempt roads, the sign even stated Council ends any roadwork from way back. Came across a nice
little waterfall with a lone Japanese photographer who had come up in his conventional hire car, I am sure
he was not aware of how rough the road was which I thought very brave of him.
 Waterfall in from Hannam Vale

We were camped at Kylies Beach, a nice little spot up from Crowdy Head National Park, inland from
Laurieton for a week or so. Normal routines of long beach walks, day trips, reading and writing. A lady
once wrote a book from a little cabin in the forest from here, named The Man of The Headland, so I
thought it would be a fitting place to begin writing my journey which is where I wrote the beginning of this
book.
These campgrounds we stay at are all very well looked after and the amenities, shower and toilets
cleaned daily. There was a long beach stretch which we walked, and what I loved about it was there was
nothing in between here and Crowdy Head, only sand dunes and wilderness. Unlike Queensland which
likes to exploit some of its coastal land to the max with houses and buildings everywhere. Like the Gold
Coast, Gary had a most amazing experience while standing peacefully fishing from the beach. A kangaroo
came right in front of him and swam out to sea followed by a dingo in hot pursuit on its heels trying to
catch it, the poor kangaroo was swimming and treading water a hundred metres out right up till Gary left at
dark to come home. The following morning we spotted roo foot prints heading back into the bush, we hope
it made it to safety but nature has its own rules. From then on I began to notice more dingo tracks in the
sand so felt a bit wary when I was about seven kilometres or so from the camp while on my walks, Views
from this headland were superb.

Hill Lookout
 Camp site Brettie Reserve

Next journey was back inland to Brettie Reserve. On the road we loved the Thunderbolt Highway
After a lunch stop and shop at Gloucester where I kept running into the same lady who I had a nice
little chat with and waved at the many times we passed her by in the street, it was so funny. I was as if we
were old friends from way back but we had only just met and chatted in the supermarket but sometimes
people just seem to click and bounce off each other’s energy. We drove out to the beautiful Free Camp site
nestled down in a valley by a creek. This became home for a week, where we rode our bikes up over
mountains and paths, enjoying all the wonders of simplicity and nature; we had noisy neighbours with a
generator which we were glad to be rid of when they left. This place was once where all the locals used to
come and have their New Year’s Eve celebrations in times gone bye so I heard.
After here we went back to Gloucester, loaded up on reading material from the ladies at one of the
church sale op shop stores and drove up to Barrington Tops Wonderful drive and excellent vacant camp
site to choose wherever we wanted. This area has a walk around bog lake where wombats live, sadly we
only seen two dead ones on the road
Thursday, 20 October 2012, is one of the coldest nights I have ever felt. Clear skies, frozen fingers
holding the torch to read by in bed; Gary’s body nice and warm to hug into. Following day walked up to an
ancient beech forest set amid massive escarpments, sheer 1000 foot high walls of basalt.

Looking over Barrington Tops

The road

Then we drove down the western side to a small old gold mining town called Moonan Flats, very
charming hotel where we had a beer. Since 1846 it had been operating and not much structural change,
except a few repairs. The land on this side of the mountains had been totally cleared and was sad, a few
odd trees here and there still stood.
One night a gun went off and I thought it may be some crazy man going for the camp shoot out, very
scary. A week later I found out that one of the most wanted man in N. S. W. was spotted up there that
week, lucky it was only some dick head hunters freaking out the campers.
Down from here we made our way to Yagon near Seal Rocks where it rained for much of the week,
which was beginning to get on my nerves Met a nice young couple who we invited over for a meal and
played a bit of music, brave German girl and nice young driller from Canada who told me some distressing
facts about how much drilling for oil and gas which is going on in the Arctic circle. We went out for a few
day trips, and had a hot shower at the camp ground up the road, very nice too. This is a very beautiful part
of the coast.
We had word from our tenant she wanted out, so after a few days staying in the luxury of my brother’s
house in Salamander Bay, we turned around and headed back towards Gympie Town to sort out another
tenant and clean up house and grounds. We stopped at Apsley Falls just outside of the town of Walcha for
five days by a grand waterfall.
 Aspley Falls near Walcha

A trip back home to survey the house and re-rent it via a real estate agent and pack all our gear inside a
container My birthday was on the way home on the 6 December. We stayed in Warrick at a nice little hotel
with a owner who reminded me of a certain film star, I turned fifty-six.