Pattern
Making
Drafting
Bushra Noor
8th November, 2019
Introduction
1. Title
2. Author
3. Illustrator
4. Fiction or Nonfiction
5. Why did you choose this book?
Reading Rainbow Tip: Was the title
interesting? Did the cover spark your
curiosity? Was it something else? Talk about
why you chose the book to help your
classmates understand more about you!
1
Child’s bodice block
Measurement
Chest : 22 in.
Waist : 21.5 in.
Cross Back : 9 in.
Waist Length : 9 in.
Finished Dress Length: 20 in.
Construction Line:Child Bodice Block
Draw a line segment AB of 12" (1/2 of chest
+ 1).
Draw another line segment BC of 9" (waist
length).
Join AD and DC. Mark the mid point of AD
as E.
Mark the midpoint of AE as F.
Mark the midpoint of AF as G.
Mark a point H on AB so that AH = 2.2" and
point O on AD so that AO = 1/2". Join OH
by drawing a curve.
Mark a point I on GG' so that GI is 4.5" (1/2
of crossback).
Join HI and extend it to J so that IJ = 1/2".
Drop a perpendicular from I on EE' and J’E’.
Go ½” up at 45 degree and mark X and X’.
Mark the midpoint of EE' as K. Join JXK by
drawing a curve.
Drop a perpendicular from K on DC at L.
Mark points M and M' on either side of L
(1/2"). Join KM and KM'.
Mark a point H' on AB so that H'B = 2.2"
and N on BC so that BN = 2.5".
Join HN by drawing a curve.
Join H'I and mark a point J' on H'I so that
H'J' = HI.
Drop a perpendicular from J' on EE' meeting
FF' at P. RP = 1/2".
Draw a curve joining points J', R, and K.
2
Child Sleeve:
Body Measurements:
Sleeve Length : 5 in.
Chest : 22 in.
Construction Line:
Draw a line segment AD of 5" (Sleeve
Length).
Draw a line segment AB of 5" (1/4 of Chest
-1/2").
Draw BC || AD and DC ||AB. Mark a point E
on BC so that BE = 2.4" (1/9 of chest). Join
AE.
Divide AE into four equal parts namely AH,
HO, OP, and PE.
Mark a point H' above H so that HH' = 1/4".
Similarly, mark a point O' above o so that
OO' = 1/2". Mark a point P' below P so that
PP" = 1/4". Remember! the points taken
should be perpendicular to AE.
Draw a curve joining A, O', and E. Draw
another curve joining A, H', O, P', and E.
Mark a point F on DC so that FC = 1". Join
EF.
Mark a point G on EF so that GF = 1/4".
Join DG by drawing a curve.
Up
3
● Puffed sleeve with the
Puffed Sleeves gathering at the bottom.
Start with a paper pattern of a sleeve. Mark
the middle third of your pattern with parallel
lines 3-4cm apart, cut and open out the
pieces. The fuller the sleeve you are after
the further you spread the parts. Note:
Traditionally it cannot be made more then The bell-shaped sleeve is
5cm. For fuller sleeve cut the strips drafted exactly the same way.
narrower. In some old pattern making books Without agathering the
you can find the pictures of a puffed sleeve bottom of the sleeve hangs
draft looking like a fan with the strips cut as freely, creating soft folds.
narrow as 1cm.
Depending on the shape of a sleeve you are ● Puffed sleeve gathered both
after the gathering can be paced on the at the top and at the bottom.
bottom or top of the sleeve, or both.
Puffed sleeves drafting
process:
● Puffed sleeve with gathering
at the head.
Note:
The line of the new sleeve
does not go parallel to the
original pattern all the way, it
extends out in places of a
“stretch”. The extra fabric is
needed to create a volume.
4
Puff Sleeve
Age : 3years
Measurements:
Round Chest : 22”
Waist : 9”
Sleeve length : 5-6” ( as desired)
Construction lines:
● Place the plain sleeve in such a way
that the on-fold line ( along the
length) is 3 ½ - 4 ½” away.
● This extra material is taken for
gathers.
● Take 1” extra above the length for
fullness till point A.
● From A, draw smooth curves for the
front and the back armholes, and join
with the curves of plain sleeve.
5
Cap Sleeve
Age : 3 years
Measurement:
Round chest: 22”
Waist: 9”
Sleeve length: 3-4”
Construction lines:
● Take a piece of paper 10” by 12”.
● Fold it to make it 5” by 12”.
● Again fold it to make it 5” by 6”.
● Keep the double fold along the left
side and single fold along the lower
edge.
● Place the plain sleeve along the
double fold side, touching the upper
edge.
● Trace the plain sleeve, and cut it.
● The rest of the tracing left with single
fold is the cap sleeve.
● Cap sleeve is always cut on the bias
grain.
6
Flared Sleeve
Age: 3 years
Measurements:
Round chest: 22”
Waist: 9”
Sleeve length: 5-6”
Construction Lines:
Cut the plain sleeve length wise at 3
different places.
Place the 4 slashes in such a way at the
armhole that thy are apart by 1 ½ - 2” at the
lower edge.
Reshape the sleeve at upper and lower
edge.
Flared sleeve is always cut on the bias grain.
7
Peter Pan Collar
Age : 3 years
Measurement:
Round chest: 22”
Waist: 9”
Sleeve length: 3-4”
Construction lines:
● Trace the bodice block keeping the
centre front and back on fold in such
a way that the neckline is towards
neckline and armhole towards
armhole.
● Mark the width of the collar from the
center back to center front in a
smooth curve.
● Come in 1” from the centre front at
45 degree and mark a point.
● Reshape the outer edge, passing
through this point.
● For the 2 piece peter pan collar
reshape the centre back same as
centre front.
8
9
Conclusion
10
