THE VERY BEST IN SCALE ARMOUR MODELLING

71
July / August 2013
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BLITZKRIEG

ROUTE MARCH
STUNNING GROUP BUILT DIORAMA
 CONTENTS
2 Blitzkrieg Route March
Roberto Aguilera directs a team of leading modellers in this
fall of France diorama project.

12 T-62 Mineroller
Andy Gulden teams up a Mig Productions mine roller with the Trumpeter T-62.

20 Singapore Armed Forces Leopard 2A4SG

Chris Meddings tackles an ambitious project to build a Singaporean Leopard
based loosely on a Hobbyboss kit.

32 Drilling SdKfz 251/21 ‘The Last Snows of Winter - Hungary 1945

A superb winter weathered halftrack by Lester Plaskit.

44 Keeping Track
More new releases

56 Stalinets ChTZ-65 ‘Heavy Russian Tractor’

Rick Lawler add his own touches to Trumpeter’s tractor.

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BLITZKRIEG

ROUTE MARCH
4TH PANZER DIVISION FRANCE 1940

Roberto Aguilera brings together the

combined talents of Sang Eon Lee,
Michael Rinaldi, Daryl Dancik and
himself to portray this stunning 1:35th
scale scene of the 4th Panzer division’s
rapid advance into France in 1940.

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 Perhaps everything began with a scene in life. He is a fantastic painter, no doubt
my head, a classic scene. After returning among the best in the world, so the rest of
from my first visit to Euromilitaire, I was so the project had to be top quality. I needed
inspired by all that I had seen, that I wanted something in the diorama that would focus
to build a landscape somewhere. I had attention besides dust and grass, and I was
acquired a beautiful Dragon Panzer I Bison looking for a bridge or a building. I had also
from my friend Michael Rinaldi, plus another acquired a wide selection of grass tufts,
good friend and great builder, Daryl Dancik flowers, and summer bushes from
who was finishing a Panzer IB that Michael MININATUR from Germany, I wanted
would paint for me. These early war tanks contrast between the military colours and a
may not be very fashionable right now with beautiful coloured environment surrounded
the trends to the ‘paper panzers’ and late by flowers. And then I found the piece I was
war kits. I wanted a dirt road to match the looking for, a European windmill MDP043
Bison’s finish as Michael had painted the from MONROE PERDU, in my opinion one of
Bison with a dusty and dirty look, so I could the best if not the best scenic model
see it in a column of tanks on a road, now I manufacturers.
needed the troops. So the scene was set, France 1940, 4th
I found great range of German infantrymen, Panzer Division. I started sketching layout
early war period, from the outstanding drawings that I sent to my buddy Torlap
Russian figure maker TANK MODEL. Five Intarangason in Malaysia, to get some help
sets T-35075 - T -35080, perfect for that I with the basic layout in Styrofoam, while I
had in mind, so the shipment went all the was finishing another project and started
way to Korea for Sang Eon to bring them to the windmill construction and painting.

SETTING THE SCENE

The base was cut into shape from foliage of France, 15 different sets of
Styrofoam, although the road was corrected Mininatur, summer bushes, turf, turf with
twice to fit the infantry, the bridge was made leaves, late summer turf, and yellow and
out of balsa wood. The stream was made purple flowers, all scattered on bits and
mixing Vallejo still water 26230 and Vallejo pieces carefully glued one by one, it took
acrylic colours interior green and sand about 5 weeks, 4 hours a day to do the job,
yellow. Pouring several layers, making sure then hundreds of leaves and branches
every layer was fully cured before adding where glued on. WOODLAND SCENICS
the next. Torlap did a Great Job on the initial rock debris, Talus rock debris where added
grass layer, using a Noch Grass-master to the road, all of which was airbrushed with
60131 and Noch static grass. I got the base Tamiya Buff, and the base was heavily
and started by adding depth to the summer covered with MIG pigments.

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THE WINDMILL
What a beautiful piece this is, cast in fine light grey resin, it
comes with a sheet of laser-cut high impact cardboard, coloured
in wood brown. I started with the top section and the tiles, After
the initial coat of Tamiya primer, a coat of Tamiya flat black was
airbrushed, each tile was painted in a different colour using a
wide range of Polly S acrylics that I had in a drawer for a long
time so I decided to use them, I was very happy with the results
of my old paints, smooth, great colours and nice finish. Then
layers of MIG pigments where applied very subtly on top of each
tile. A thin coat of Humbrol satin varnish was airbrushed to obtain
some fresh mud look. A second round of pigments was applied.
The wheel, blades and wood rail where painted with different
shades of brown using Polly S acrylics, the effect is great on this
amazing cardboard, and the result is a very realistic. MIG
pigments again, on top the acrylic paints, using earth tones,
after a couple of days, Winsor & Newton oils Raw Umber thinned 5
with Humbrol thinners where applied using a fine brush on the
panel lines, scratches and wood grain.
 The base of the windmill was primed using
Tamiya grey primer, then a mix of Tamiya
Buff acrylics and desert yellow was
airbrushed recreating stucco finish. Moisture
spots were heavily accentuated around the
base, then three different hair spray coats
each one airbrushing the Tamiya mix over
again. Chipping on this was different than
tanks, these are damp spots in old paint
over the stucco, using the references that I
had, I tried to match the peeling paint by
rubbing the paint in a very subtle way,
shaping the stains and peeled paint.

The painted advertising graphic on the back

is a huge decal provide in the kit, and
several coats of Solvaset where applied, to
achieve the hand painted look. After the
decal was set, two coats of satin varnish
where airbrushed over it. The door was
painted light wood colour using Vallejo
acrylics, then a coat of hair spray and Vallejo
Park Green, chipped off and then finely
accentuated using Winsor & Newton oils.
The base was finished by adding several
coats of MIG pigments on earth tones and
stains and rain streaks with oils. Overall this
windmill was a very nice piece that I really
enjoyed modelling.

Award winner and Master Painter Sang Eon Lee From Korea did the job, the
THE FIGURES figures where primed and the airbrushed flat black. The details are beautifully
painted using Sonja’s acrylics. This is one of the finest paint jobs I have ever seen.

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 PZI AND BISON
Michael Rinaldi built the Bison, from the Dragon
kit. He added some PE and Fruil tracks, I
always speak highly of my collaborators but
Mike deserves a special respect and
admiration when appreciating his art, without
doubt Mike did a great job with this one as
usual. After a coat of primer the model was
base coated with a mix of Medium Blue XF 18,
Nato Black XF 69, German grey XF 63, to
create the panzer grey, extensive washes and
pigments were added. The Pz I was delivered
to me half finished, as Mike could not finish it,
so I had to copy his style and add final touches
to this one. Not an easy task when you have to
match Mike’s style! The only basic difference
was that the Pz 1 had a red primer base coat
and I leave it to you to judge my success!

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 The different components were now all complete and could be brought
CONSOLIDATION together on the base and final adjustments made to the composition. The
Alpine motorcyclist was added to the scene as part of the traffic jam and he
contrasts nicely with the marching infantry.

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 T-62 mineroller

Modelled by Andy Gulden Modern Russian vehicles have always been a subject that I have
found very captivating. I always pick up the newest kits and the
new photo-etch and resin conversions find a way into my work
shop. Since painting and weathering a vehicle in combat
conditions is my favorite part of modelling, most modern Russian
subjects get pushed to the back of the work bench as I build and
paint the newest WW II project. A shinny T-72 on parade in
Moscow just won’t do it for me.

As I was researching current Russian uniforms for some figures I

was painting, images of the Russian Army in Chechnya keep
showing up. A particular picture of a combat weary T-62 with a
KMT-7 mine roller peaked my interest. After quick check of my
stash, I was confident I had all the necessary parts to re-create
the T-62.

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 Construction
The base for this project is the Trumpeter T-62,
model 1972. I planned on using the many
aftermarket sets I had collected over the last few
years. The following sets where used on this model:

MIG Productions KMT-7 Mine Roller

MIG Productions T-55, T-62 Fuel Tank Fittings
SP Designs Corrected Turret and Fuel Tanks
RB Productions Gun Barrel
Voyager Model Fenders, Photo-Etch Detail and Slat
Armor sets
Miniarm Resin Wheels
Furil Track

The issues with the Trumpeter kit have been

hashed out on the internet and in magazines so I
will not go into them here. I intended to spend my
time enhancing the details instead of correcting
these problems.

Hull and Fenders

I started construction with the lower hull as usual. I
really did not follow the kit directions much; I used
them just as a reference as I went along. I set out
assembling the major hull components first. After
gluing the hull top and bottom together I
progressed to the rear deck and completed the
major parts of the hull construction. Once dry, I
filled all the locating holes I would not need with
plastic stock and super glue. A swipe of Mr
Surfacer 500 and a little sanding finished up the
hull “box”. Thankfully the fenders are separate parts
so no cutting was necessary. I moved on to the
suspension and built that per the directions. While
the suspension was drying, I concentrated my
attention on the fenders. The Voyager set is very
well detailed and assemble just like the real thing. I
soldered the first and last vertical support to add
some strength once they are placed on the hull.
The strengthening spars on the underside of the
fender were secured with thin super glue applied
with a disposable brush. The Voyager fenders lined
up perfectly with the locating slots on the hull and
where then secured with thin cyano glue. It was
time for some detailing.

Both fenders received there remaining support

braces and various other photoetched parts that
replaced the plastic bits. A rather detailed look at
some references set me on the correct path of
adding all the weld beads to the hull and fender
assembly. Most of them where created using thinly
rolled out “Green Stuff” and a wet cocktail stick
was used to add the texture. I replaced the kit fuel
tanks with ones from SP Design and detailed them
using various Voyager parts. The MIG Productions
fuel line set supplied the proper plumbing for the
tanks. They were finished off with some plastic rod
and lead wire for the lifting handles. The kit storage
boxes were brought up to standard using details
from Voyager and the ten or so mounting
assemblies were fabricated from plastic rod and
brass bits to finish them off. The rear mud flaps
have been fabricated from lead foil and bent into
shape using the kit parts as a template. My
reference vehicle was missing the front fenders so
only the remaining hinge sections were built.
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Rear Deck
The rear deck of the Trumpeter kit is full of
inaccuracies and soft details. I decided to
shave off the small intake screen on the
left side and recreate using plastic strip
and brass rod. A section of Voyager mesh
finished off the rebuild. Reference pictures
show a very complex system of hinges and
locking mechanisms for the large intake
covers. I recreated them using brass rod,
plastic stock and a few etch parts from the
scrap box. Various missing details were
added to the back wall such as bolts,
conduit and wire to the lights finished up
the rear end. The fuel drum mounting arms
were modified so one could remain empty.
Another check of my references led to an
additional round of weld beads.

Front Glacis Plate – Mine

Roller
The Glacis plate needed no modifications
but various parts from the Voyager set
helped to add some fine detail. All of the
moulded on conduit and wiring was
removed and replaced with brass rod and
copper wire. Special attention was paid to
adding the missing details around the
drivers hatch.

Before finishing up the front, I assembled

the MIG mine roller. It went together pretty
well but the instructions left a little to be
desired. A good set of reference pictures
will be needed here. Once completed, the
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 mine roller and hull where secured to a
piece of thick cardboard with Blue Tack to
help line everything up before gluing the
retaining bolts to the top and bottom of the
glacis. A bit of patience is required at this
step but once completed I had quite an
impressive mass of plastic, brass and
resin!

Turret
I decide to use the SP Design turret as it
already had the canvas tarp molded on
around the gun mantlet. Most of the kit
parts were used on the turret and
additional details from the Voyager set
finished things up. The RB Productions
barrel mated up perfectly with the turret
opening. It was now on to the slat armour.
The Voyager Slat armour set provides
turret and hull sections, thankfully my
reference vehicle only sports the turret
sections. Constructing the slat armour
sections proved to be fairly straight
forward. I soldered the outermost vertical
and horizontal rails to create a strong
frame and filled in the rest, securing with
thin cyano glue. Mounting the panels to
the turret was another story. To keep
everything straight and plum, I mounted
the turret to a thin piece of wood with blue
tack and scribed a reference line for the
top mounting points with a drafting
compass. This allowed me to secure the
top arms level and could now install the
slat panels being careful to allow them to

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T-62

rotate on the hinge point. I could then set

the panels perpendicular to the wooden
base and glue the bottom arm. More weld
beads were applied around the mounting
points.

Miscellaneous
I finished the assembly by installing the
road wheels from Miniarm, track from Furil
and replacing the kit DSK-M with one from
the Tamiya T-55. One of the kit fuel drums
was built and secured using one strap from
Voyager and replaced the other with a
heavy chain from AK Interactive.

Painting
Painting started with a good coat of primer
from Vallejo. The base coat started with a
deep pre-shading of Tamiya Nato Black in
all the corners and recesses. My green was
made from a mixture of Tamiya Nato
Green, Sky Green and white. I applied a
few thin coats to let the pre-shading show
through. A few drops of white were
progressively added to the base colour and
applied to the center of large areas as a
type of modulation. A splash of Tamiya
Dark Earth was sprayed along the running
gear to begin the weathering process. A
good coat of Tamiya clear sealed the paint
job for decals and weathering. A MIG
Productions set of dry transfers for
Chechnya was used to add unit numbers
and symbols.

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 Weathering
I started the weathering at the mine roller and worked my way around the whole
tank by adding chips and scratches using Vallejo SS Camo Black Brown. I applied
them randomly with a sponge on all the exposed edges and areas of high crew
traffic. Although this achieves good results I always go over the areas with a 000
brush and add some refinements. I purposely went heavy on the rollers themselves
to create a good base for the metallic effects to come. With that step complete I
applied a few green and brown filters from MIG Productions with a wide flat brush
making sure they dried completely between coats. To create some depth on a
boring green base I added many little dabs of blue, green and yellow oil paint and
blended them in using a wide brush dampened with mineral spirits. Once
everything was dry a round of pin washes was applied using MIG Productions Dark
wash. I used it right out of the bottle for the running gear the lower part of the hull
but thinned it quite a bit for the top surfaces. Some random rust washes on the bar
armour finished up process. With my air bush filled with heavily thinned Tamiya
Buff, I began adding dusty areas and rain streaks around the entire tank, especially
the running gear and lower hull. Before moving to mud splatter and general
dirtiness, I covered the face of the mine rollers with Humbrol Metal Cote and
polished it to a nice shine.

Mud and more mud… I had a pretty good looking model at this
point and I could have easily assembled all the components
and called this one finished but not yet. I had recently
purchased the AK Interactive “Heavy Mud” set and was eager
to use it. Combining the ingredients with water and adding
some gloss from the Vallejo range, I mixed up a thick mud
paste. I laid down a think foundation of wet mud by splattering
the mix from the tip of an old brush with blasts of air from my
airbrush. Two or three more applications of mud were applied
but adding some lighter colors to the mix to get a good
contrast between wet and dried material. The mixture was
scrubbed from areas of ware such as the face of the rollers and
road wheels with a short stiff brush.

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Final weathering was completed with a few
applications of “Streaking Grime” and
“Light Rust” from AK. A quick pass of
graphite power applied with a cotton bud
added some metallic sheen. The track got
the same mud treatment as the tank after
a quick dip in “Blacken it” and the contact
points were scrubbed off with 800 grit sand
paper.

Once everything dried up, the road wheels,

tracks, spare fuel drum, MV lenses and
machine gun was mounted to the hull. One
final application of scratches was applied
using a light green colour to create some
depth. The ever-present skull on the DSK-
M was added as the finishing touch to the
project.

Conclusion
This was a very enjoyable project that
allowed me to try some new techniques
and became a good platform for the many
aftermarket bits I had collected. I think a
war wary veteran T-72 may be in the frame
soon!

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 H O B B Y B O S S

The Leopard 2 MBT, in its various In many cases these tanks have been upgraded and

forms, is one of the most widely changed with local systems and additions, usually in
co-operation between the German manufacturers
sold and successful modern MBT
Kraus Maffei and local defence engineering companies.
series currently in service around
The Leopard 2A4SG is no different. At heart it is an
the world. It is in service with a upgraded and standardised 2A4, much like the original
large number of countries in the 2A4s bought be Singapore a few years ago.
world including; Greece, Spain,
Canada, the Netherlands and
Singapore and of course;
Germany, and if reports are correct
then soon apparently; Indonesia.

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 The latest upgraded version has a number Singaporean armoured vehicles and I
of key differences that make it unique believe integrated to all air and other land
among 2A4s in service around the world. units to allow complete tactical information
The differences are partly German sharing in real time across all units, and a
designed, and partly Singaporean in origin number of other more prosaic additions in
and the work of ST Kinetics, the indigenous terms of preferred machine guns (the
defence engineering firm and designers of GPMG/ L2A1/MAG), unique light clusters
the Bionix IFV and Terrex LAVs. Changes to etc.
the 2A4 to make the latest 2A4SG include
an auxiliary power unit, comprehensive Due to the sheer number of changes to the
‘AMAP’ armour block upgrades to the hull tank from a standard Leopard 2A4, the
and turret front and sides and the addition number of unique features it possesses,
of slat armour to the rear sides and rear and the number of corrections to kit parts
itself. required; an out of the box build, or even a
kit-bash, was always going to be out of the
It also has the new integrated Battlefield question. The only thing for it would be a
Management System in use on all significant scratch-build.

CHRIS MEDDINGS TACKLES AN AMBITIOUS SCALE

PROJECT TO CREATE THE LATEST LEOPARD
USED BY THE SINGAPORE ARMED FORCES. 1:35
REFERENCE KITS AND ACCESSORIES USED:
As far as I am aware, the latest incarnation In preparing for the build, I got what I could already
of the 2A4SG is so new it does not feature made from kits and aftermarket. These were:
in any publications. Information on it is very
1. The Hobbyboss Leopard 2A4SG. This is a very
limited from other sources such as the
cheap kit when I bought it in Singapore and
internet and if I hadn’t been lucky enough
given the amount of it that would not end up on
to see one it is doubtful I could have got
the finished model, its basic soundness for the
enough photos to complete this project. price was the best choice.
Luck was on my side though as I was in 2. Leopard 2 tracks by Armour Track Models. I
Singapore in May 2012 when the Singapore wanted the Bronco track but they were not
Armed Forces held their biennial ‘Army available at the time.
Open House in the City’ event where they 3. RB Models Barrel. I got this direct from RB
take over the Formula 1 site in the heart of Models. It’s a beautiful item, service was
the city and bring out their equipment for excellent, but it did need a little bit of correction
as we will see later.
the public to see with various
4. Karaya tow cable
demonstrations on attractions for families.
5. Legends IDF Machine gun set for the MAG MG
At this year’s show they had two 2A4SGs
and parts of the pintle mount.
on display, one on its own and one which 6. Various resin nuts from Miniarm. I would also
they had brought steps up to, allowing the need an awful lot of white styrene, brass rod,
public to get on top to take a look. fillers of various types, metal sheets and foil and
Needless to say my camera and I made full to design a large fret of photoetch.
use of the opportunity.
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 THE HULL This armour then had to be further
detailed with anti-slip and small nuts that
stand proud of the armour. I used the
I started with preparing the upper hull for
punch again to punch out 2.5mm discs
the conversions. This meant measuring
of masking tape to protect the detail and
out the APU and cutting a section from
I cut thin strips of Tamiya masking tape
the right rear and scoring new panel
and laid these along the edges of the
lines around it where access panels had
panels and masked any other areas that
change. As I would be putting so much
would not require anti-slip. Working one
new anti-slip on the model I removed the
panel at a time I added a thin coat of Mr
anti-slip also to avoid issues with
Surfacer 1000 and left it a couple of
matching mine with the moulded version
minutes to start to set. Then when it was
on the kit. on the kit.
still tacky I rolled a cotton bud over it to
get it to pull up in the desired fashion.
I started work on the front upper armour,
One application was not fully effective, so
working from my reference the armour is
I sanded it back a little with a fine
made from 1mm styrene sheet and
sanding stick and applied a second coat
0.5mm styrene sheet. The armour
over the first. When that was set I
panels have a number of circular locking
sanded it minimally to take off any
nuts in them. To duplicate these I used a
remaining high spots.
hole punch and punched out 4mm
diameter discs and some more 3.5mm
discs. In these I drilled a 0.3mm central THE TURRET
hole and added two more holes either
side of the centre with a pin. Next I All this while I was also working on the
added the top sheets to the base layer turret. The turret on the 2A4SG is
1mm sheet creating an overhang on the significantly different in detail to the
areas where the thicker sheet was short standard 2A4 with upgraded additional
to duplicate the overhang seen on the armour to the front and forward sides of
real thing. Lastly I added the 3.5mm the turret, and slat armour for the rear
discs in the 4mm holes for the locking sides and back. There is a new
22
nuts. ammunition locker on the rear left and
an air conditioning unit on the rear right bead with wax sculpting tools. I next needed to be duplicated so I drilled some
side plus stowage boxes attached to the tackled the gunner’s sight by adding the suitable holes to a shallow depth and then
outside of each of these. The smoke missing plates and bolts on the ‘shelf’ in used the tip of a new scalpel blade to carve
dischargers are also different to the front of the sight. I then scratchbuilt some out the recesses for the attaching bolts. I
German 2A4 and in fact are laid out more basic optics for the sights and armoured then masked off the anti-slip panels on the
like the Austrian 2A6 with 6 dischargers doors. The Rheinmetall/Zeiss PERI-R 17 A2 tops, including masking the areas for the
above and 2 below rather than two rows of panoramic commander’s sight supplied in bolts and other uncoated details, and
4. Externally the sights appear to be the the kit is poorly detailed and with a terrible added the anti-slip with Mr Surfacer as
same as the original 2A4 but a forward joint to try to rectify so it was easier just to before. The seven completed AMAP blocks
facing camera has been added between make my own. were then assembled onto the turret and I
the two turret hatches. started on the finer details such as the
The kit cupolas are not great. The hinges on the front corners and brackets on
The flag holder bracket on the right side of commander’s cupola has poorly detailed the left side. No two blocks of the armour
the turret by the commander’s cupola was supports on the ring and the ring itself is a feature the same shape or details, so the
relocated to the right edge of the turret to bit thick. I decided to design a set of PE to pictures I managed to get at the Open
allow the AMAP armour to be fitted. The correct these, and other issues so I took House event were essential here.
lifting eye on the mantlet was poorly some time out at this point to work on the The final part of the AMAP blocks on the
moulded so I replaced it with 1mm brass PE drawings. I continued the turret by turret to finish was the block that covers the
wire. The wet weather mantlet flap was scratching the AMAP Armour packs for the mantlet. I can’t say I figured out the best
also replaced with textured foil from a front and sides. These were constructed as way of doing this because my way certainly
coffee tin. boxes, each part of the armour pack being seemed to be a lot of work and not easy at
individual as they are on the real thing. all. In my case I more or less made a box
The kit turret is missing many welds. I then carved the right shape out of the block
replaced them, and added the missing The actual AMAP packs do not look drilling the holes for the MG, 120mm L44
welds, with stretched sprue that was completely solid. The top seems to have an etc. Needless to say a lot of sanding sweat
softened with cement and shaped into a undercut on the inside face and this and filler were involved!
23
 I started with the air conditioning box. I pieces of styrene
began by building the basic shape, leaving sheet together with CA and The boxes feature a
off the lid. Towards the rear of the unit on cut them all in one go. Once they number of brackets and
the top there is an air intake with mesh and were cut a gentle slice with a new blade other fittings on the outside.
internal louvres. I filled the box leaving a separated them. Many of these are complex and
void for the louvres which were added from as I was making PE anyway I decided to
styrene sheet. I added the top to the box The rear of the 2A4SG turret is very draw them for etching as they would be
after cutting out a section over the louvres different from the standard 2A4. Instead of thinner, stronger and would look a lot more
making the mesh and screen surrounds in the tapered rear stowage it has four new precise in brass. The exceptions to this on
photoetch. The unit has an armoured lid, units; two large in the form of an the ammunition box were the locking
the basic shape of which was easy, but the ammunition stowage box and an essential latches. I attached these to the turret and
24
hinges took a little more work. To make the air conditioning unit along with two small scratched the mounting blocks for the
upright ‘triangles’ uniform I tacked several stowage boxes (with attached baskets). aerial mounts. I was hoping just to cut the
kit ones out of the parts for the 2A4
stowage bustle, but they were a different
shape. However, making new ones was
no real chore as they are quite simple.
The bases themselves are standard
wound spring mounts. I took a piece of
1mm styrene rod and formed a small ball
of putty around it. When this was nearly
set I wound some 0.4mm wire around it
tightly, with a little CA on each end to hold
it. Once all that was in place I could make
final measurements for the two outside
stowage boxes. These fit around the aerial
mounts and larger boxes with the outside
edges following the tapering lines of the
turret. Other than that they are pretty
straightforward and didn’t take a lot of
construction. The only things that were a
little more complex were the hinges, so I
added these to my PE fret.
Once all the boxes were in place, I had a
look at the rear and sides of the boxes
themselves. The aircon box has a frame
of downward pointing louvres for
exhausting the hot gasses which was
made from strip plastic.

THE RUNNING GEAR

I decided to correct a couple of where the following issues had to
the kit’s outer wheels and get be corrected. Missing bolts on
them cast. I started by drilling a the hub, incorrect shaping on the
hole in the centre of the hub. ribs on the hub, missing holes on
There should be a square hole the rim and incorrectly shaped
here, but on the Hobbyboss kit it teeth.
is represented with a raised ring! I fixed the ribs first, this was just a
After this the main issue is the case of shaving a little material
tire. On the real one there is a off. After that I reshaped the
raised rim on the inside edge. teeth with a sanding stick then
Also there are a number of discs drilled the two holes; on at
on the face of the tyre which look 0.6mm and one at 0.4mm. Finally
like the stubs of the feed rods I used Masterclub hex bolts to
where the rubber was injected add the missing bolts. This was
into the mould. I replicated these pretty easy as Hobbyboss had
with Tamiya masking tape. left the shaped spaces for them,
just somehow forgotten the bolts
After dealing with the road themselves!
wheels I looked at the idlers

25
 THE HULL REAR
Like everything else on this kit, the hull rear The towing hooks
wall needs work! All the welds are missing have a plate latch
and there are quite a number of them. Next to retain the cable and I made these from removing the lights from the Hobbyboss
I added the brackets to the engine thick foil. Once the rear hull was in place I parts and putting them into their new
inspection ports. The biggest and took off the rear light clusters and mud ‘boxes’.
well-known issue though is the number of flaps. The light clusters are different on the
slats on the air/exhaust outlet. There should 2A4SG from the 2A4 and the mud flaps are Now all that had been tackled I added the
be eleven slats, but on the Hobbyboss kit rather over-scale. I made new boxes for the rear facing camera, built by KMW the
there are only 10. This is not an easy thing light clusters from copper sheet which is camera is a standard item on the 2A5 and
to fix and although a new resin outlet is more malleable and more easily cut than 2A6 but has been fitted to the 2A4SG as
available as part of an upgrade set by brass sheet. I left the bottom slightly longer part of the kit used to enable the
Perfect Scale Modellbau, but I made my than necessary and bent the end over to Singaporean Battlefield Management
own with strips of spare brass cut from give something to attach the mud flaps to. System. This was scratch built from plastic
26 used PE frets. The mudflaps themselves were drawn for working from my photos from the Army
PE etching later. I finished the clusters by Open House event.
THE REAR DECK & AMAP ARMOUR
The first thing we notice is the air intakes I returned then to one of the larger jobs, the between the two parts I decided to make
for the engine cooling fans. On the Tamiya six modules of AMAP armour that make up them in one piece and score the joint after
and Revell Leopard 2 kits these are the two armoured skirts on the hull sides. the basic shape was made. There was
moulded solid with relief mesh detail. These are quite large and I decided to quite a bit of work required to work out the
Hobbyboss score points for supplying the strengthen the form with a frame which optimum shapes for the slopes on the
mesh separately, but unfortunately they would also give me something to attach sides, especially the way they meet at the
lose them again for the poor and incorrect the other ‘facets’ to. I used 3mm x 2.5mm front end. After a little trial and error, and
mesh pattern! Consequently I drew new styrene section from Plastruct. Before far too much maths for my liking, I got one
ones to have them etched later. I decided adding the outside sections I thickened side done then used it as a pattern for the
to re-scribe the major panel lines on the them with some extra 1.5mm styrene sheet other side.
rear deck for better definition. In addition I to make them sturdier and also to give me
had three new hatches to scribe on, for the something to drill through to in order to site Next I had to add various small details to
addition of the APU, and various other the large countersunk bolts visible on the the top. The first were to driver’s side
details on the APU itself. I cut a template real blocks. mirrors. The mirrors themselves aren’t that
from brass sheet, drilling out the corners to Once the two blocks were built I marked bad, but the rest (clips, arms, mounts) were
get the required curves then cutting the out the locations for the countersunk bolts awful so I scratched replacements from
straight lines to join them up. I then placed carefully and drilled shallow holes piloted brass wire, styrene and foil. I decided to do
the template on the model and used the with a fine drill then completed with a large the clips that hold the two foremost units of
wax tools again to engrave my lines. I then diameter drill and cut thin slices from 3mm the side armour together in PE, as were the
(carefully!) used a steel rule to get the other hex rod and placed them in the holes. I lifting handles as both parts needed to be
lines need on the APU and to deepen and then added the anti-slip and bolt details to very exact and were very small. It’s much
sharpen the lines of the engine access the tops in the same way I did on the turret easier to draw it accurately than make it
decks. armour. I moved on then to the front two accurately in plastic for objects like this.
pieces on each side. Given the angled joint

27
 After scratchbuilding indicator lights I half of the 2A4SG it has received an
had a look at the headlamps - one of the armour upgrade. This was pretty easy to
many challenges that made this build do with a smaller blank of sheet styrene
attractive in the first place was its unique underneath (one of 0.5mm and one of
parts. I started with the plates they sit 1mm) and a thin sheet on top and
on. These were formed from stock brass slightly larger to create a lip. To finish the
sheet, with suitable bolt details added. driver’s hatch I added a windscreen
The hinges were made by folding foil wiper for his periscope. I took the time
around a piece of 0.3mm styrene rod while I was there to re-work the slightly
then pressing the lines into it to simplified and inaccurate splash guards
represent the flat hinge part joints. I around the hatch too.
unsuccessfully tried to scratchbuild the
light guards from styrene, copper and Surprisingly the tool clamps have been
then brass sheet. So again I drew them replaced on the 2A4SG. I say
up for etching In the end each one had 8 surprisingly because surely a tool clamp
parts! is a tool clamp? New ones were
therefore designed in etch. They are
The driver’s hatch was next and required quite a complex design so I broke each
conversion. Like everything on the front clamp down into four parts.

I was now ready to start the slat armour when

my friend Lawrence Goh of Echelon Fine
Details sent me a picture he had taken of the
nose of the 2A4SG from a different angle and
we realised I had the nose angles wrong. I
wasn’t pleased and part of me did think ‘just
leave it and carry on’. After thinking about it
briefly I knew I had to fix it properly or I would
have wasted all the other work done on the
kit. I took the drastic and most direct route of
adding a little more styrene to the front of the
nose (where it was deficient) then marking out
the correct, more aggressive angles and lines
on the work already done and attacking it with
a large razor saw and Dremel. It was messy
but a bit like ripping off a plaster; painful but
best done quickly! It was tidied up re-detailed
and I was very happy with the result, even
with the extra few hours spent correcting it.
28
THE SLAT ARMOUR
Due to the slat armour’s complexity I trimmed them and drilled the holes for the measurements were required.
needed to work out the measurements and vertical rods. I then marked one end of the
dimensions as I had done with the AMAP strips to make sure I knew which end was My photoetch was ready so I could
packs. I created a blank template from thin which before separating them again. construct the cupolas and scratchbuild the
sheet styrene which was then test fitted All of the turret slat is placed the same loader’s MG mount on his cupola ring from
and adjusted multiple times until correct. I distance apart: 2.2mm, and I used Tamiya white styrene. This is basically the same as
could then use this as a template for the Extra Thin cement to get a good bond the standard German fit on the locking
precise measurements I needed to make before setting that frame aside and working rotating mechanism on the ring itself, but
the slat itself. I worked out the sizes for the on the next. I then inserted 0.3mm brass the mounting arm is different. Singapore
supporting arms. On the turret these are rods for secured them with just a touch of does not use the modern German MG3,
made from steel box section welded very thin CA. Finally I added a small section they use the FN MAG. This means a new
together with simple plate mounted bolts to of brass on the inside faces of the slat mount complete with ammo can holder.
take the slat panels which were easy to panels where they are mounted to the After seeking advice from modellers more
make from square section Plastruct. I used arms. When they were all finished I used to modelling modern subjects I
Evergreen strip, 0.4mm x 2mm to make mounted them onto the arms and added ordered the Legend IDF MG set and used
the frames for the slat and the slats bolt detail and short lengths of 1mm rod the MG, and very nice PE can holder and
themselves. were then used to attach them to the MG cradle from the set and scratched the
AMAP packs. rest. Finally on the build I added Karaya’s
I built the external frame then measured tow cable (I think about 1.5mm diameter)
and cut the required slats. To make sure The hulls slat panels were constructed in tow cables filling the slots in the ends of the
they were all exactly the same length I cut the same way as the turret. They were a bit cable eyes once the cable had been
them slightly longer then tacked them trickier in that they have more sloping tops secured in them. 29
stacked together with a dot of CA and and bottoms which meant a few more
 THE PAINTING
Approximately five months after starting, the I did this by diluting some Emerald Green,
build phase was now finished. But I wanted Burnt Umber and Black oil in thinners. I use
to enter the model in the Singapore Model Windsor and Newton thinners for Oils as I
Show M Con, run by Bernard Cher at M feel it’s better than turpentine. I diluted it
Workshop. I was lucky to be there in 2012 as until it was about 1 part oil to 20 parts
the competition is only held once every four thinner. When it’s that thin is prevents the oil
years and I didn’t want to miss the from streaking and dries very quickly, but
opportunity to enter Singapore’s most most importantly it builds up very slowly over
competitive and prestigious show. The race many applications allowing me to control the
was on to get it painted in only two weeks! level of tint perfectly.
Singapore’s Leopards don’t get out much.
Large tracts of land away from the city state Once I had got the colour closer to where I
on other parts of the island are reserved for wanted it I added the decals. Of course,
military use, but hardly any live firing takes there is no kit and so no decal set for the
place on the island itself. Instead they travel 2A4SG available. Luckily though the tank
for joint exercises in countries such as doesn’t have many markings. Two license
Australia. A combination of lack of plates (front and rear) and a bridging plate is
operational use and a strict maintenance more or less it.
regime to combat the effects of the humidity Allowing a coat of matt varnish to fully cure
and ocean air in Singapore means that the then started on the ‘modulation’ bit. I mixed
countries big cats are very well looked after a little white oil straight from the tube with
and kept in great shape. some emerald green and touched it to
So chipping, streaking, dents and dings and edges and parts I wanted to highlight.
all the other methods of adding visual Generally speaking this meant panel edges.
interest are out. I would have to rely on Here I added a little oil at a time with a small
dynamic light effects, and drawing attention brush, then took a larger soft , short-bristled,
to the many details visible on the tank to add clean and dry brush and gently swept the oil
the interest to the finished model. away from the edge.
Over time I was making the oils used lighter
Over white primer I applied a basecoat of and lighter in tone and applying less and
Lifecolour dark green mixed with Vallejo US applying it more selectively to build up the
Olive Drab. When this was dry I painted all tonal graduation and make it more dramatic.
the details such as the tires (with Vallejo I spent about one week just doing this stage.
30 Black Grey), the periscopes and so on. Finally I gave it another 24 hours to dry and
The colour was very light and not quite green then started on the pin washes.
enough, so I added a filter of dark green oils.
For pin washes I use a mix of Black and
Raw Umber oils heavily diluted again, but
not so diluted as the filters. I usually CONCLUSIONS AND LESSONS
dampen the surface first with clean thinners,
Like most modellers I do my best to research fully and get things
working one panel at a time, and touch the
details with a 0000 brush loaded with the right, but I did make a few mistakes on this model. The turret bin’s
wash and allow the capilliary effect to draw underside shape is not quite correct, and this throws out the slat
the wash along panel lines and around armour. The nose, although now very close, is not quite right.
raised details etc. I finally added a few small Since making this model I have decided to kit the subject in 1/35
chips on bolt edges and so on where parts and 1/72 through my company. To do this I have been drawing
had been removed for cleaning and scale plans. If I had this project to do over again I would have
maintenance prior to the Army Open House drawn the plans before beginning as it’s a lot easier to change
event. I went around the model and added
plans until it’s right than it is to correct a model. I am also not
a few tiny chips here and there using silver
entirely happy with the colour. This was partly the result of the
acrylic mixed with a little black to dull it and
time scale and an unfamiliar colour palette used for lightening
reduce the toy like metallic look.
which had a dramatic effect in altering the colours, something I
With that the project, and 9 month’s work will test more thoroughly next time.
and fun was done!

I would like to thank Lawrence

Goh, Olaf Kievit, Rob Harvey
and Adam Mook Chee Leong,
and also Bernard Cher for their
help and encouragement on
this project and I very much
look forward to producing the
tank as a kit in 2013.

31
 LESTER PLASKIT’S 1:35TH SCALE

SdKfz 251/21

“the second snows of winter”

Over the last few years I have found myself more and more finding my inspiration
for modelling projects coming from photographs of wartime vehicles which have
something about them which sparks my interest, this can be a particular
camouflage pattern or something unusual about the vehicle, such was the case
when I started researching this particular model.
Having always liked the look of the 251D halftracks I had started out with the
intention of building a 251/22 pak wagon but as with all good intentions things can
easily become side tracked, this started when I was talking to Swedish modeller
Mirko Bayerl about my ideas and he sent me a picture which showed a Drilling in
Hungary 1945 with the crew warming a jerry can of water in the engine bay and a
very worn winter white wash, almost as if the crew had tried to remove as much as
the white wash as possible after the snow had thawed.. This picture fired my
imagination and I decided to build a Drilling based on this picture to try and
32 recreate the partially removed white wash finish.
There are two kits of the Drilling available etch brass replacements such as the rear
on the market today the Dragon models door locking mechanism, the dash board
offering which can be built up into an and other various items of interior
early 1.5cm gun mount version or the AFV equipment. One of the major exclusions
club model which can be built into either from the AFV kit is a number of recessed
an 1.5 cm or a latter 2cm gun mount screws missing from around the engine
version. Both kits are not without their bay hatches, these were subsequently
problems as have been well documented added using a beading tool and a blade
on the internet and as I had chosen to to form the screw head slots. As I was
build the 2cm gun mount I decided to going to show the vehicle with the engine
base my model on the AFV club kit, whilst hatch open (so I could later add the jerry
using some better detailed parts from the can ) I scratchbuilt the engine bay area
Dragon kit. The main source of reference and added details to the rear of the dash
for this build came from the Panzer Tracts area using plastic card and copper wire
No 15-3 publication and further armed to reproduce the details required, for the
with the Aber 251/D etch brass detail set I engine I used the excellent Great Wall
began. Much of the construction centred Hobbies engine which only required a
around replacing moulded kit details with little trimming to get a good fit.

33
 The forward bulk head with extra detail added from the Aber The missing screw heads added to the upper hull using a
etch brass set. beading tool.

The scratchbuilt additions to the engine bay. Details added to the underside of the upper hull.

More specific to the Drilling the additions to the gun mount came
pedestal for the gun mount was too with replacing the barrels with
high for a late pattern 2cm Drilling, metal rods and using the ammo
this was lowered to the correct links from the Dragon kit as they
height by removing material from could be more naturally positioned
the base of the mount using the coming from the ammo cans to
Panzer Tracts book as reference, gun breaches.
also both the etch brass and plastic
gun shields provided in the AFV
club kit are incorrect, being too
small and with the incorrect
number of holes. To solve this I
scratchbuilt a new shield from
plastic card again using the Panzer
Tracts as reference, further

34
Interior Paint
Painting any open-topped vehicle presents keep my base colours very light as darkening the paintwork too much, once
a challenge as both the interior and exterior subsequent weathering will have the effect dry, I added a filter of Humbrol Matt 62 and
must be painted in sympathetic tones to of toning the colours down considerably again left to dry before a further filter of
one another but be weathered in different and it is far easier to tone down a light Humbrol Matt 98. The combination of the
ways with the interior showing more traces colour than it is to lighten a dark colour. The two enamel filters again added more tonal
of wear from the activities of the crew such colour I chose for the yellow base coat was depth to the dark yellow colour giving it a
as paint chipping and dirt from the crews Vallejo air radome tan which was further better scale appearance. A more localised
boots. With this in mind I began the lightened with a small amount of off white, Matt 98 filter was also applied to the floor
painting process, I prefer to paint as much this gave an excellent tan yellow base area and along the lower edge of the
of the model in sub-assemblies. In this colour seen on late war German vehicles, interior walls to create a shadow effect to
case the gun mount was painted as a once the mix had been applied in 3 light make a colour separation between the floor
sub-assembly minus the gun shield and the airbrushed coats it was then sealed with an and the walls.
only items left out of the interior were the airbrushed coat of Vallejo satin varnish to
crew seats and the spare ammo cans, the protect it from the following weathering To define details and panel lines, controlled
engine had been previously assembled and steps. pin washes of Burnt Umber and Sepia oil
painted to be fitted once the engine bay paints thinned with white spirit were applied
had been painted and weathered. I had The first stage was to add a little depth to around details with any excess paint being
also decided that on this project I would try the colour by adding a slight yellow tone to blended away using a brush moistened
and achieve the base colours using Vallejo the paintwork. To achieve this without with white spirit. Through the process of
acrylic colours instead of using enamels (as losing too much of the Tan base coat I filters and pin washes some of the base
I have done previously), to give the acrylic decided to add a glaze of Tamiya X24 clear colour dark yellow was inevitably lost, areas
colours a good base coat to bond to. I yellow which was heavily thinned with water of highlights were reinstated by lining in
under coated the interior components with and applied using a large brush over the highlights on the top of panels and any
a 50/50 mix of Humbrol 110 and 93 tan base colour taking care not to let the edges using a heavily thinned mix of Vallejo
enamel, which also had the effect of giving clear yellow pool (any excess yellow was Beige, Off White and Pale Sand making
a pre-shading effect. Once this had dried carefully blended away using a damp sure any highlights are very subtle and not
fully (24 hours) I mixed up the acrylic base brush). This glaze gave the base coat a too prominent.
coat for the dark yellow, I always like to slightly darker and more richer tone without

The interior
under coated
using a Humbrol
enamel mix.

The dark yellow base mix made up from Vallejo

Radom Tan and Off White applied via airbrush.

Chips and scratches are

added to the interior using
Vallejo Burnt Umber paint
applied with a sponge
and a fine brush.

Tamiya clear yellow X24 is then glazed over the base

colour to add some depth of tone to the yellow.

35
Any highlights lost in the glazing process are now
reinstated using Vallejo paints and a fine brush.
 Further effects such as wet mud areas are The completed lower hull and engine bay
added to the floor plates. before the upper hull is added.

The weathering stage begins with the they would be subject to more abuse and stage I felt it was time to mate the upper
addition of various paint chips and to further enhance this I added some and lower hulls together but then a thought
scratches (as stated above this weathering Vallejo Dark Blue Grey and Hull Red to the occurred to me as to the colour of the
will not be as harsh as would be seen on pallette which gave the impression of the engine bay, after checking, my modelling
the outside of the vehicle as any damage floor panels being worn down to the Red friends confirmed that the bay would have
would be caused by general wear and tear primer and bare metal in the areas that been left in its Red primer state, so out
from the crew members). I find using a torn would see the most traffic. To further came the airbrush and once I had masked
piece of dense sponge to add the bulk of enhance the floor and give the impression the hull I repainted the engine bay in Vallejo
the chips/paint scuffs before further refining of an accumulation of dirt and wet mud in Cavalry Brown which is a good match for
with a thin paint brush the most effective keeping with the Hungarian winter theme German red primer and once the bay had
method. Vallejo Burnt Umber was used for areas of the floor were treated to a mix of been weathered accordingly the Great Wall
this technique on all of the interior fittings Vallejo satin and gloss varnish with the mud Hobbies engine was installed. Finally I
including the gun mount and the spare deposits being made up from MIG added a slight metallic sheen to any
ammo cans being careful only to add pigments mixed into the varnish. To fill the exposed metal edges using a 6B pencil
damage where it would be appropriate and rear stowage bins and add some colour which was also used to add a metallic
logical such as the wall sections behind the variation to offset the amount of yellow in finish to the gun barrels and breaches on
seats where the actions of the crew would the interior I took various items from my the gun mount once they had been painted
wear the paint away and on the edges of scrap box, painting them in green and grey in using various shades of blacks and
36 the internal stowage bins. The floor plates tones which were then weathered down to blues.
received more extensive weathering as match in with the rest of the model. At this
 I started by masking off the engine bay hatch colour scheme. To add a yellow tone to this
Exterior Paint opening and the vision slots on the upper deck. colour it was glazed with Tamiya X24 in the
Next the upper and lower deck were mated same manner as the interior and once
together using super glue to attach a section at completely dry I could begin masking the
a time to make sure no gaps occurred, this camouflage pattern. To achieve a very tight
procedure went surprisingly well with only a factory sprayed finish I chose to use the
slight miss match on the upper hulls rear panels reusable roll out adhesive putty method of
which required the addition of some plastic masking and as to the light nature of the base
card extensions to ensure a good fit. As yellow I opted to use a white coloured putty as
opposed to replacing the kits front mudguards I the blue version can sometimes mark or stain
decided to thin down the parts supplied in the the underlying paint work.
kit and detail them using parts from the Aber
etch brass set. Since the beginning of the The putty was applied in thin rolled sections
project I had wondered what the crew would do following the prescribed factory pattern using a
if after removing the majority of the white wash wax shaping tool to ensure the putty had good
as the snow had thawed it then snowed again contact with the side of the model to prevent
how would they try to supplement the winter any paint leaking underneath. This can be a
camouflage and it was whilst reading through long and frustrating operation but being
the Endkampf book by Axel Urbanke I came methodical will pay dividends latter on. With the
upon a picture of some 251/Ds in a winter dark yellow areas masked off I started by
setting with what looked like white sheets tied to airbrushing on my green tone, this was kept a
the hull sides being used as improvised snow deliberately light tone, using Vallejo German
camouflage. This I thought was the answer I Cam Green heavily lightened with basic skin
was looking for and would fit in very well with tone until a slightly minty green tone was
the overall look and feel I wanted for the model, achieved (once weathered this would tone
I therefore decided to add some sheets to the down to a more realistic colour). The green had
model using magic sculpt epoxy putty which been applied in 3-4 light airbrush coats so I
was rolled out as thin as possible then removed the putty masking to check for any
transferred to the hull sides of the model with paint bleed. I re-masked the model in
final shaping of the putty being carried out with preparation for the red brown phase of the
the putty sheets on the model. Once the putty camouflage pattern. The red brown shade is a
had cured the process of masking off the very difficult shade to get correct at this stage
interior was completed. The putty sheets were as it has to work in harmony with the other
left on the hull and would be painted in place as colours on the model but not be too light or
(due to thinness) trying to remove and refit them dark as it will not tone down to the required
later could cause problems. shade during the weathering to follow, with this
in mind I mixed the red brown from a number of
The camouflage pattern would be a factory colours using a combination of Vallejo Hull Red,
applied three tone hard edge scheme which I Medium Brown, Flat Red and Medium Flesh
replicated using masks. The base coat of dark Tone. These colours were mixed by eye to a
yellow was applied as the interior using Vallejo shade I felt would look correct after they had
radome tan lightened with some white, this been weathered down and with the Red Brown
again gave me a good light base colour which airbrushed on the mask was removed and after
would darken down as the weathering the new paintwork was sealed with an
progresses and it would match the interior airbrushed coat of satin varnish.

Using a reference picture the

first part of the camouflage
pattern is masked off using
White Tac putty.

37

Once the green has dried the model was re masked and the red To tone down the colours controlled washes of Humbrol 98 were
brown colour added which again was mixed from Vallejo paints. applied over 2-3 days to allow time for the enamel to completely
dry. Highlights and damaged paint are added as per the interior.
 Using the same method as was used on the interior
various chips and scratches were added to the exterior.

At this stage the model looks very stark and toy like, With the camouflage colours significantly toned
so the next step is to tone down the colours in down the next step is to harmonise the colours
sympathy with each other to produce a more lifelike together to portray a look of aged and worn
and in scale appearance, to start this process each paintwork, a filter of Humbrol matt 98 well thinned
of the camouflage colours were carefully dry with white spirit and applied with a flat brush in a
brushes with progressive lighter shades of their downward motion is a very effective method of
base tones (done by adding small amounts of bringing the colours together and recreating a worn
Vallejo Flesh to their base mixes) I chose to use the paint effect. To start to define the detail on the
original Vallejo mixes that had been lightened for model a Burnt umber oil paint pin wash was now
this dry brushing as opposed to the more traditional added, this had the effect of further reducing the
method of using enamel paints for dry brushing as I tone of the colours and adding depth to the model
could not get a good enough match with Humbrol (any excess paint from the pin wash was carefully
colours, the Vallejo acrylic paint is suitable to be dry blended away in a downward motion using a brush
brush as long as you proceed in small areas and do moistened with white spirit which also added to
not let the paint dry out on the brush. ageing process of the base colours).

38
Once the filters and washes were fully note of advice would be to use Tamiya
dry, chips and scratches were added acrylic white thinned with water as this
to the exterior paintwork using the paint seams to leave a more
same method employed to the interior convincing flaked pattern when
but this time as well as burnt umber removed than the more water based
Vallejo Cam black brown and Radome Vallejo paint, as shown in the pictures
Tan were also used to re-create the model was only given a light coat
scratches and chips in the of white which was subsequently
camouflage colours where the base nearly all removed only leaving traces
dark yellow had began to show of the white wash in small areas such
through also any detail painting as around nooks and crannies and
required was finished off such as the hard to reach areas which would be
exhaust and the number plate decals consistent with the white wash being
from Archer fine prints were added. At removed quickly by the crew and the
this stage I believed the paintwork ravages of the winter weather. In an
looked sufficiently worn and with the effort to protect the fragile nature of
correct tonal values that I could the Tamiya white paint an airbrushed
proceed to add the winter white wash, coat of satin varnish was once again
the method for applying the white applied over the model, with the
wash was the hairspray technique varnish dry a second pin wash of burnt
which I will not go into detail about as umber oil was carefully applied to help
it has been very well explained in a redefine some areas of detail that had The start of the winter white wash was Tamiya white thinned
number of modelling articles but one been covered by the white. with water sprayed over a coat of hair spray which had been
previously applied to the model.

Now we see the effects of the worn white wash after the The white sheets are now painted in with Vallejo colours
Tamiya paint has been scrubbed away using a stiff brush trying to keep the tone muted.
and warm water.

AK interactive enamel earth washes were added to the A dark earth enamel wash from AK interactive began the
sheets to unify them with the weathering on the lower hull weathering of the wheels and lower hull area.
and to give the appearance of dirt and mud that would
have been thrown up from the vehicles tracks.

With this wash applied I next turned my grime as would be the case whilst attached
attention to the white sheets, to add some to the vehicle in the winter conditions. As all
depth to the sheets I had first under coated of the elements of the gun mount and the
them in Vallejo dark sea grey which I upper hull coming together focus now
proceeded to over paint with thin layers of turned to the lower hull and running gear,
Vallejo off white which had been slightly the rubber tyres n the road wheels were
toned down with small amounts of dark painted in using a dark grey tone (which
sea grey and Hemp, as the colour started looks a lot more natural than black) then
to build up on the sheets I gradually the lower hull was given a generous wash
reduced the grey and hemp in the mix until of AK interactive Matt dark earth enamel
finally the highlights were painted in with wash which nicely stated to darken in this
pure off white which gave a nice depth and area of the vehicle without loosing a lot of
contrast between the sheets shadows and the previously painted in detail and giving a
highlights making the sheets look as if they good base tone for the following 39
had acquired layer of ground in dirt and weathering.
 Further mud effects are
added in the form of mud
splatters to the wheel
arches and lower hull.

The areas of built up wet mud were blocked in (as After 3-4 washes to the lower hull and running gear
were some mud clots that had been added from mud splatters (that would have been kicked up off the
epoxy putty to the lower hull and wheels during the wheels) were added by flicking some Vallejo Cam
construction stage) using a mix of Vallejo burnt umber German Black Brown paint off a short brush with my
and hemp randomly mixed in varying degrees as to thumb onto the areas under the mudguards and at
give some variation to the mud colours, this looks a the front and rear of the lower hull allowing some of
little stark and unrealistic at this stage but further this to drift up the hull sides onto the white sheets.
washes of AK interactive mud will bring all of this
together to reproduce the look of mud and moisture.

Finally AK interactive fuel stains wheels and the Friul tracks after being
mixture was selectively applied neat painted and weathered were treated
from the jar to areas when wet mud to the same mud and dirt mixtures to
would be prominent. The fuel stain ensure everything remained constant
was used over a gloss varnish as the on the model and once the tracks had
dark brown colour of the fuel stain been fitted all that was left was to
helps to darken the areas of wet mud recreate some of the worn metallic
and give a nice satin/semi gloss finish edges on the vehicle and the tracks
where varnish would only give a gloss using a 6B pencil as had been done to
finish and not darken the areas of wet the interior of the model.
mud down sufficiently. The front

40
Once the completed gun mount
had been glued into the mount in
the lower hull and the aerial
attached the model was
completed apart that is for a crew
which I intend to add at latter date.

My thanks must go to my friend

Mark Beaumont for his advice at
all stages of the model and the
numerous reference books he lent
me greatly assisting in the models
construction and finishing.

41
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 OUT NOW
AIR MODELLER’S GUIDE TO WINGNUT WINGS VOLUME I

This publication is the first in a series of books

showcasing a number of different kit builds that
detail the methods and materials used to achieve
these stunning models. Some of the aircraft in the
first volume include a Roland D.IVA, RAF SE5,
Hansa Brandenberg and a RE8 Reconnaissance.
The book also contains technique features on
rigging and painting woodwork finishes.

ONLY

£19.50
PLUS P&P

• A4 FORMAT
• 112 FULL COLOUR PAGES
• 7 ALL NEW UNPUBLISHED BUILD
PROJECTS
• RIGGING AND WOOD EFFECTS GUIDE

W W W. A F V M O D E L L E R . C O M
OLD STABLES, EAST MOOR, STANNINGTON, PHONE 01670 823 648
MORPETH, NORTHUMBERLAND, NE61 6ES FAX 01670 820 274
 new releases
KEEPING TRACK

Tamiya 1:35 Israeli Tiran 5

Hot on the heels of their Enigma release, Tamiya draw on the long sure to fill the open hatches very nicely. So Tamiya's legendary
term success of their T-55 kit (the original over ten years old now!) easy build, great detail and a great subject- what's not to
with the Israeli Tiran 5. Around four hundred T-54 (Tiran 4) and T- like?..well the soft vinyl / plastic 'band' style tracks won't cut it with
55s were captured, modified and pressed into service with the IDF some modellers, especially with that exposed upper run, and
right up into the early '80s. Once you get past studying the many of us are still excited by a turned metal gun barrel and
beautiful box-art it's immediately apparent that much of this kit is photoetch which isn't the case here unfortunately. Tamiya remain
new tooling including the full upper hull and turret which exhibits true to their brand and customers by producing kits their own way
superb cast textures and weld beads. The Israeli 105mm gun without following trends with a very wise move expanding on the
comes with optional covered mantlet and well detailed .30 and T-55 variants- could there be more to come? we hope so. Thanks
.50 Cal MGs and the pair of half-figures are really rather good, to The Hobby Company, Tamiya distributors in the UK.

Tamiya 1:48 Sd.Kfz.232

The seventy fourth (hard to believe!) release in Tamiya's quarter- plastic surgery. The body features indicate a later production
scale range is the early-war German 8-rad, a completely new kit. vehicle with the front spaced armour, splash guards etc. The turret
Two large dark grey sprues and two smaller duplicate ones allows an open top hatch and a commander figure is included to
containing wheels and suspension parts. Tamiya always try and sit under the large characteristic frame antenna which is handled
balance ease of build with levels of detail especially with these in quality Tamiya style. These early war vehicles could really
smaller scale offerings, this vehicle must be a real challenge to kit benefit from a few photoetched parts, this more so than others. I
designers due to the complex shape and design. The chassis is think Tamiya could have included at least the muffler guards (as
simplified but with decent levels of detail for what will be visible on Tamiya's 1:48 Panzer II) as what's provided is moulded smooth
and the wheels are good though some of you may wait for the and looks poor. If dunkelgrau doesn't excite you the decals offer a
44 inevitable resin upgrades. The hull is a simple affair with a one dark yellow with cammo version from Kursk. A nice, typically
piece upper and separate side plates, all hatches and vision flaps Tamiya kit which looks like a quick and easy build but simplified
will have to remain closed unless you want to resort to some detail would benefit from some photoetched finesse.
Bronco 1:35 GPW 1/4Ton Utility Vehicle (Mod.1942)
with 37mm Anti Tank Gun M3A1
This is our first look at Bronco's 'Jeep', this latest release comes to depict a 1942 or earlier model. A fully detailed engine bay and
complete with the diminutive little 37mm A/T gun. As a youngster chassis can be revealed with the open bonnet option although
my first 1:35 kit was Tamiya's Willys 4X4 (the first release with the there are a few ejector pin marks to treat with a dab of Mr
trailer and figures) I remember it fondly and with a first look inside Surfacer or careful sanding. Photoetched parts are included along
the lid of this box it's apparent how much kits have changed over with a very detailed decal sheet with five marking options
the years! This is one hugely impressive and detailed kit, ok- so including insignia for the driver figure. The 37mm gun is of equal
you won't be able to assemble it in a couple of hours like the old quality with an excellent set of optional cross-ply tyres. A highlight
Tamiya release but the trouble Bronco have gone to represent of the kit is one of the best injection moulded canvass hoods
every feature is really commendable. Along with the super-fine we've seen, moulded so thin it's almost transparent in places with
detail we're offered plenty of options with superb .50 and .30 Cals superbly rendered creases. With a choice of Jeep kits available
included and a covered/ lowered windscreen along with field we'll recommend this as the best we've seen - superb! Thanks to
modifications such as bumper mounted wire cutter and rear UK distributors and retailers Hannants for the sample
mounted jerry can which was seen later in production. This is a www.hannants.co.uk
Ford produced vehicle and the logo is included on the rear panel

Bronco 1:35 Panzerjaeger II fuer 7.62cm Pak 36, Marder II D

A subject that has long been on modeller’s wanted list and ammunition and boxes to compliment it. This is very typically
Bronco have utilised their excellent Panzer II Ausf.D kit to produce Bronco in terms of the high number of parts which obviously
what is a stunning recreation of the Marder II D. Hull and running contribute to the enhanced levels of detail seen, but can make for
gear are carried over as you would expect and there are no a frustratingly slow build with so many small parts to clean up. The
complaints here with excellent detail as well as individual link plus side is that its all in the box and you wont need anything
tracks. Even the tires are moulded separately from the wheels. extra apart from your choice of crew. As it says in the instructions
The hull is assembled from flat panels and although it all aligns “It will require a little more care during assembly, but you feel the
exactly I experienced some twisting of the hull tub which is where end result is well worth the effort”. The instructions deserve a
a solid tub would be better. Bronco have provided a detailed special mention too as Bronco have helpfully included CAD
interior with torsion bars, gearbox, driveshaft, instrument panel, images along with the normal line drawings to assist in any
final drives and seats. The sloped armoured sides are well especially complex areas which is excellent. The kit comes with a
handled with recessed screw head details and there is a large generous choice of seven different camouflage schemes on the
photoetched fret providing a host of details including the large decal sheet.
rear basket and its frame. The 7.62cm Russian gun is another Our thanks to UK distributors and retailers Hannants for the 45
little gem with wonderful detail and comes with a selection of sample www.hannants.co.uk
 new releases

Meng 1:35 Pick-Up w/ZU-23-2

Meng continue to fill the gaps in the market with style, think of the sections. The barrels, although not moveable, can be set in three
endless options with this 23mm Russian AA gun which has been different positions to suit your scenario. A black sprue carries the
around since the '60s, and the 1990s (I think?) Toyota Land Cruiser running gear and chassis parts with the steel rims nicely done
pick-up, you could realistically find this combination anywhere in being shod in soft vinyl tyres with decent tread pattern (although
Africa or the Middle East over the last twenty years. Meng present void of any side-wall lettering) Tan sprues hold the body parts and
their kits beautifully with high quality packaging and compact interior, the doors can be positioned open and the roof complete
instruction booklets, this one even harks back to the days of with A and B posts is supplied separate so it can be left off as
Matchbox's tri-colour plastic! Let's look at the gun first which will often seen with these vehicles. A clear sprue provides glass and
surely be released as a stand-alone kit being used throughout the lenses which will look good and a small etched fret adds some
World for so long it has huge vehicle conversion potential. Two fine detail. The only thing missing from this kit is the Toyota
dark green sprues carry the crisply moulded parts showing super- branding which I'm sure the aftermarket guys won't mind taking
fine detail, multi-part ammo cans and belts, tube and pressed the risk to produce from a legal/copyright point of view and while
steel seats and finely rendered muzzles with the option to have they're at it a gun crew in civilian attire would be welcome.
the gun in a towed configuration, on the ground in firing mode Another very nice looking production from Meng, top marks.
(with folded wheels) or mounted to the pick-up bed on H-beam

Inside the Armour Leopard 2A5/A6 Special Edition

This 'Special Edition' set from Inside the Armour really is rather deck lifting gear (can be built stowed or deployed) and much
special! Try 430 photoetched parts, 18 resin parts and a full set of more. The barrel assembly includes three different muzzles (very
Bronco's workable individual link track not to mention turned brass early L44, later L44 and L55 muzzles), collimator, improved bore
barrel parts and a CD of instructions…throw this lot at the Revell, excavator and resin recoil gusset. Add to all of this Bronco's
Hobbyboss or Tamiya 2A5 or 2A6 and you'll have one serious excellent track set and we have a very comprehensive, quality
project with some serious detail. Photoetch and resin parts cover upgrade bundle offering good value. Many of the elements are
46 tool clamps,suspension upgrade, primary sights, cuppola rings, also available as separate sets, www.insidethearmour.com is the
Peri sight, turret baskets, hinges and fittings, engine fans housings place to go and find out more and also view the full extensive
and grills, mud flaps, chains for the smoke dischargers, engine range of upgrades and kits.
Dragon 1:35 25 Pdr. Field gun Mk.II

Following their previous 'Early' 25 Pdr. Dragon are now offering the with good tread detail with no troublesome joints to clean up and
later War ( and I think post-war?) version of the famous artillery a small fret of photoetch which includes an open ammo tray if you
piece with new sprues in the box and still extensive use of slide- wish to display the doors of the limber open. The problem is
moulding technology providing some very delicate and impressive there's no ammo at all provided in the kit (no matter what the box
detail. The double-baffle muzzle brake is the main visual illustrates!) the previous release at least included a few rounds for
difference to my (untrained!) eye but artillery aficionados will no the crew to handle, a crew also are a big miss with this release
doubt relish the many detail changes with this later version. Some being such a prominent 'must build' feature previously. Shortfalls
of the main features are superbly handled, the main shield free of aside, this is a nice kit which will provide an easier build than the
ejector marks and beautifully thin and the trail legs showing Bronco version of this gun (from what I remember seeing of their
delicate rivet detail on all sides. Tyres are moulded in DS styrene kit) but does lack some finer detail in comparison.

Dragon 1:35 Pz.Kpfw.IV Ausf.H with zimmerit

Another very specific Panzer IV release from DML boxed as a HJ beautifully replicated with every port, hatch and door openable
Div. in Normandy, and Dragon have spent time getting the look of (except the turret skirt doors for some reason which is a shame) a
the zimmerit coating correct. Many hard-core German armour fully detailed cupola is a kit in itself. Schurtzen rails and brackets
modellers enjoy applying their own paste as no two vehicles are rival etched brass for their finesse and will be good and sturdy
exactly the same, but if you're happy spending your modelling joined with liquid cement to the hull. Another time-saver along
time on other features of a project rather than counting rows and with the zimmerit are the single piece Magic Track, not welcome
ridges, these ‘ready-zimmed’ kits are certainly for you, it's quite by some for replicating the typical sag of the upper run but largely
something how fine and delicate the finish is. The Dragon Panzer hidden behind the armour skirts anyway. The decal options
IVs have become a benchmark for detail and accuracy but don't include the roughly applied HJ turret numbers of three different
expect a quick build (especially with the 'skirted' versions) lift the tanks and five other options if they don't take your fancy. So
lid and there's close to thirty grey sprues, metal schurtzen, etched another superb Dragon Panzer IV, it's hard to think of a version
brass parts…but fear not, as with many other kits in the series they haven't covered but there's sure to be more subtle variations.
sprues are shared and many of the parts are unused. The Highly recommended.
moulding quality of these kits is superb with every feature

Stalingrad 1:35 figures

Continuing the steady pace of new

releases, Stalingrad never cease to amaze
us with their quality. These two sets are
among their latest offerings S-3006 is a
German officer in a superbly sculpted
great-coat with map board under-arm
giving a very deliberate salute and S-30007
is a pair of relaxed German figures, one
wounded and his comrade with the option
of a camera or bunch of flowers in-hand. If
you take a look over at
www.stalingrad.diorama.ru you'll see how
these sets will work very well with other
new releases. These really are among the
very best figures on the market,
impeccable sculpting and casting which
always captures the cut of the uniforms 47
beautifully. Superb!
 new releases

Panda Models 1:16 Panzer 38t Ausf. E/F

It is fantastic to see plastic kit companies getting to grips with confined to the bow MG mount, visors and in the turret there is a
some large scale armour that is not RC orientated and as such well detailed breech and co-ax along with crew seats. Hatches,
the 38t is a really great choice of subject. The compact size of the visors and engine covers are all moulded separately and there are
vehicle means that its not that much bigger than the average clear moulded vision blocks. One error we have spotted are the
super heavy 1:35 tank kit. First impressions are excellent and this missing rivets on the curved left hand turret side. The vehicle tools
looks just like an enlarged state of the art 1:35 kit with individual are also good and some are provided with photoetched straps but
link tracks with separate pins, turned aluminium barrel and the clasps are a little heavy and are best replaced with
photoetched fret. The hull is a flat panel assembly and its aftermarket photoetched versions. I found several errors in the
interesting to see all the internal bracing and rivet/bolt detail which instructions with part numbers and two stages duplicated and
perhaps hints at a future interior detail set? I found slight issues consequently other sequences missing so watch how you go. The
with the length of the floor panel which meant grinding away the kit comes with choice of four different sets of markings. This builds
rear lip to get the back plate to sit correctly. The running gear into a great looking model straight from the box and Panda
offers the possibility of articulating the suspension although the fit deserve to be applauded for doing such a good job and for
of some of the components are very snug meaning that they bind deciding to move up to 1:16. Lets hope we might see other
on each other. The tracks are great and well detailed so no need injection moulded plastic kits in this scale.
to worry about aftermarket replacements. Internal detail is

Tommy’s War 1:32 Resin Figures

Tommy’s War are a fairly new name to the resin figure
market but already making a big impression with their
WW1 themed releases. The two latest additions to the
range are really superb and would work as stand alone
figures or as a pair and there is a simple trenchwork base
available to complement them and this comes with some
assorted helmets and bits to dress it. Both figures are
superbly sculpted and feature crisp folds and the levels of
detail that you would expect from the very best resin
figures. The casting is also excellent with only very
minimal clean up required and hardly any assembly. My
only gripe here would be to ask for a little more length in
the neck of the two individually moulded heads. The faces
both sport huge period ‘tashes’ meaning they have bags
of character. The beautifully presented colour boxes offer
front and rear views of painted figures as a guide to
colours and the officer figure comes complete with a
photoetched fret with weapons slings. Extremely high
quality figures that are just begging for a your paintbrush
48 and its great to see the First World War getting some
long-overdue attention. wwwtommyswar.com
Lioness and Lion of the Line-
Volume 10, M51s of the Six-Day War
By Dr. Robert Manasherob
A4 softback format, 80 pages
Published by SabIngaMartin Publications
ISBN 978-0-9841437-7-1
www.sabingamartin.com
www.aviationbookcentre.com

The ultimate incarnation of the Sherman is the subject here in photography isn't the prettiest being taken with a flash indoors, the
perhaps the IDF's ultimate victory, the Six-Day War. This release colour profile illustrations are absolutely first rate with
deals with the 'Dagem Beth' and 'Gimel' M51s and thankfully the SabIngaMartin also producing a complementary range of decals
familiar format of pure modelling reference is presented again, to accompany their books with new and exclusive information
175 photographs, 28 scale drawings and 13 top-quality colour shared. At the moment I'm working on an M50 using one of the
profiles will give you a wealth of information to produce a super- previous volumes as a reference which is very comprehensive and
accurate Super-Sherman of the period with some great modeller-friendly, these IDF Shermans present a challenging build
inspirational combat shots (although the eight pages of with their numerous on-going upgrades and modification, another
photographs of the variation of 'mazzle' brakes is a little recommendation in this series if you've a project planned. Thanks
exhaustive!) An extensive walk-around section provides close-ups to the Aviation and Military Book Centre for our sample copy.
of areas modellers will want as reference although the

Tank Art 2
By Michael Rinaldi
softback format, 208 pages
Published by Rinaldi Studio Press
US ISBN 978-0-9883363-2-2
www.rinaldistudiopress.com

Hot on the heels of Volume 1 we looked at in the last issue is the methods along with contemporary finishing products to achieve
next release featuring Allied vehicles and how to achieve the specific effects. A good mix of project vehicles is presented with a
finishes of the much admired Mr Rinaldi. The introduction is lend-lease Chuchill, Pershing, Char B bis, Firefly and KV-1 all with
provided by Lester Plaskit (creator of the Drilling featured in this their own particular look and feel. The tallented Radek Pituch
issue) and then we’re straight into the materials and techniques (remember the cover star of issue 65?) takes the final chapter
including ‘hairspray’ white wash, oil paint rendering, pigments and with a look into his figures and the methods used to create them.
specific to this volume, ‘Painting Olive Drab’. The text and If you’re looking to improve your painting and weathering or just 49
photography are very user friendly with plenty of explanation and like nicely presented high quality modelling books, this series is
jargon-busting along the way. Michael manages to mix old-school very much worth a look with more to follow soon.
new releases

Panzerwrecks 15
By Lee Archer and William Auerbach
Published by Panzerwrecks
96 pages Softback Landscape format
ISBN: 978-1-908032-05-8 www.panzerwrecks.com

More good stuff from the chaps at Panzerwrecks who continue to late war M.A.N. camouflage pattern. A veteran Panzer III D1
dredge up those reference gems from the archives and the latest command tank first seen in Panzerwrecks X makes another
addition to the series continues to impress. This volume begins appearance along with a knocked out sPz.jg.Abt.653 Jagdtiger.
with a look at the German armour abandoned or knocked out in More revisted subjects from volume X are Panthers, Panzer III, a
the liberation of Paris and alongside some great zimmerited 38t grille/marder hybrid and the unusual 234/3 with improvised
Panthers there are also photos of assorted French vehicles 2cm schwebelafette turret. The gaudily camouflage Marder II that
operated by the German forces, Renault R35s Somua S35 and now resides in the Patton Museum is covered as well as late war
Char Bs. Fascinatingly there are four views of the rare Sd.Kfz.11/1 Stug IIIs and a IV along with nice portaits of a Hummel and late
Selbstfahrlafette mit panzerung. Some short barrelled zimmerited Panzer IV J. The book concludes with a fascinating sequence
Jagdpanzer IVs and a completely demolished Stug III complete showing and abandoned 54cm Karl Morser on its rail transporter
the mix in this section. Two nice shots of the same tiger striped with many useful close up details including a view of the driver’s
Jagdpanther are next followed by some late production King compartment. As always there is plenty to inspire your next
Tigers with ribbed mudflaps and one vehicle using transport project and Panzerwrecks have done an excellent job with the
tracks. The Fort Knox Panther G is shown next being transported quality of their images here. High recommended.
for shipping and these shots provide excellent reference for the

Sturmgeschutz III on the battlefield

World War Two Photobook series Volume 2
By Matyas Panczel
Published by PeKo Publishing
112 pages hardback landscape format
ISBN: 978-693-89623-1-7
available in the UK from Panzerwrecks www.panzerwrecks.com
Its not often that you find a few unpublished archive images in a certainly several images that had my creative juices going with
new book but to find that virtually the entire book contains fresh possible project ideas. Picture quality is generally good although
material is really quite unusual. After a brief text introduction to they lack the crisp sparkle of the images in Panzerwrecks for
the history of the Stug its straight into the pictures with one large example. If you are looking for an archive reference that gives you
image per page, running chronologically with the development of good coverage across the whole range of Sturmgeschutz then
50 the production run. Pictures cover vehicles in combat and behind this will fit the bill. Our thanks to Panzerwrecks for the sample.
the lines and one or two that have been knocked out. There are
 S35-014 / S35-015
EA35-174

EA35-168

EA35-042

EA35-170

EA35-160

ET Model Detail Sets

ET Model are not slowing their release schedule and have a new bonnet panels, replacement hinges for the drop sides, bonnet
large batch of detail sets tailored to a wide selection of new kit logo, windscreen wipers, tool boxes and all the usual tool clamps.
releases. We will start with two of their Value Packages S35-014 For Trumpeter’s recent BTR-70 APC (early version) set E35-160
and S35-015 for the Russian PT-76 and PT-76B amphibious tank contains a replacement resin gun barrel, brass MG barrel and
with complete new trackguards, bow plane, replacement engine resin antenna mount as well as photoetched parts for new front
grilles, headlamp cages and all the tool clasps along with a resin window hatches, mesh screens, rifle ports, hatch hinges and new
antenna mount and brass MG barrel. For Dragon’s M1A1 AIM set panel for the front of the turret. Also for the new Trumpeter BMP-
E35-174 is a monster set with detail parts for the .50 Cal and 1IFV kit there is set E35-170 which includes replacement
associated ammo boxes, turret basket mesh, complete trackguards, exhaust mesh screen, missile launch rail, turret
replacement smoke grenades with turned brass tubes, engine stowage straps, bow plane, periscopes and replacement hatches
deck mesh, exhaust grilles, sprocket rings and a host of tiny or hatch liners. The set also includes a lovely set of resin tow rope
details. Also for the Abrams is set EA35-042 which is a turret eyes and a braided cable as well as an antenna mount and 51
bustle extension rack with resin jerrycans. Set E35-168 is for turned brass MG barrel.
Dragon’s Maultier half-track and this set provides new louvred
 EA35-169 EA35-167

ER35-052

EA35-178

ER35-047-51
ER35-047

EA35-167

EA35-162 EA35-165

ET Model Detail Sets

Continuing on and set E35-169 is for the Panda Models 2S6M and this is the case here with gaps between the tire and hub that
Tunguska with parts to detail the radar dish, turret stowage bins, will have to be filled. Set EA35-041 provides the CIP panels for
engine deck intake grilles with mesh along with all the expected your chosen M1A1/A2. We conclude with two boxed sets and the
replacement tool stowage and clamps. For the Hobbyboss T-26 first EA35-162 is for the Dragon T28 Super Heavy Tank. The set
Light tank Mod.1931 set E35-167 provides new stowage box, provides a new resin mantlet and replacement .50 Cal. There are
engine grilles, new trackguards, and new Driver’s hatches. The replacements for the on board cranes, new .50 Cal mount and
next set E35-178 is for the Hobbyboss WMIK Landrover with Milan ammo box, new stowage bins and the usual tool clamps and
Missile and this set has new radiator grilles, headlamp guards, headlamp guards. The second set E35-165 is an M1A2 Tusk 1
instrument panel, excellent textured seatbelts, tiedown straps, upgrade set with seventeen frets! There is new belly armour, and
sand channels and antenna mount boxes. Next we have no less a full incredibly detailed set of side skirts on which to mount the
52 than five different sets of resin wheels for BTR-60 and BTR-70 and individually assembled boxes. The armoured screens for the turret
set ER35-051 for the BRDM-2. Tire tread pattern is the same and roof come with clear perspex inserts. A stunning set but not for
it is the hubs which differ. Separate hubs are prone to fit issues the faint-hearted! www.etmodeller.com
Merkava Siman 3- Baz and Ramaqh
By Michael Mass and Adam O’Brien
A4 softback format, 80 pages
Published by Desert Eagle Publishing
ISBN 978-965-91635-2-6
www.deserteagle-publishing.com

Renowned IDF armour expert Michael Mass and expert modeller section will be most useful to anyone modelling the Mk 3
(who we’ve featured in the past), Adam O’Brien bring you the providing good walk-around type photographs of all of the
latest in the series from Desert Eagle which is sure to please IDF features you’d want. A couple of pages of reference are
modellers. The book (as others in their IDF Armor series) is big on dedicated to the Nochri Dalet (mine roller) which is great timing
visual reference, the majority of the book being large format with the release of Meng Model’s kit. To finish there’s a page
colour shots with detailed captions. The book opens with describing the tactical symbols used rounding off another
descriptions of the Mk3 derivatives and then a chapter each on excellent modelling reference from Desert Eagle. Thanks to
the Baz and Ramaqh in action followed by a section featuring the www.aviationbookcentre.com for our copy
crews living and working with the vehicles. The large ‘In Detail’

Panzer Wedge Volume 2

By Lt. Fritz Lucke, Robert J. Edwards
and Mike Olive
B5 softback format, 208 pages
(black and white)
Published by Stackpole Books
ISBN 978-0-811710-82-4
www.casematepublishing.co.uk

This second volume tells the story of the 3rd the fighting and is very factual and tactical
Panzer Division's advance to Moscow where detailing individual battles and movements of
the aura of invincibility surrounding the German the kampfgruppes. The twenty-or-so
forces starts to wain. This is very much a photographs throughout the book are poor
history 'reading' book with very little visual quality so from a modelling perspective pretty
content as modelling reference, if Barbarossa is much void of any reference but packed with
an area of interest to you this will prove facts for the historical and tactical buffs of the
absorbing and informative reading. Most of the period.
text is written by corespondents at the time of

Outside The Wire

By Jim Ross
B5 hardback format, 352 pages
Published by Stackpole Books
ISBN 978-0-811712-22-4
www.casematepublishing.co.uk
Although this is another 'readers' book from Stackpole it's very into the day-to-day horror experienced by these young men
much more engaging as it's a first hand account of a combat tour surviving the conditions and the North Vietnamese forces. There's
of Vietnam in 1970 with the 'Tropic Lightning' U.S. Infantry Division over fifty colour photographs which would have been better (for
where the author served as a rifleman, machine gunner, tunnel rat modellers) in a larger format with all vehicles featured being
and demolitions man, so as you'd imagine his memoirs are M113s. Recommended, and at times very moving, reading if you
action-packed! The extracts I've read are easy-going, not a book have an interest in Vietnam War combat. Thanks to Casemate for
you need to read intensely, very easy to pick-up and put-down in our Stackpole Publishing samples. 53
short bursts should you wish. This is an excellent first-hand insight
 Tamiya U.S. Modern Infantry (Iraq War)
Although we're massive fans of Tamiya their figures sometimes please the modern diorama builder, four U.S. Marines and four
lack the edge of the kits in today's modelling marketplace. Tamiya U.S. Army figures come with a wealth of weapons and gear.
themselves maybe realise this and have released a few of their Moulding and detail is really sharp with body armour nicely done,
classic toolings coupled with figures from MB of the Ukraine, who good sculpting of the heads and hands and excellent weapons
along with Master Box produce some of the best styrene figure with nice touches like extra ammo clips duct-taped on. The Army
sets around in our opinion. I don't remember seeing either of quartet are little more static in their pose than the Marines who
these two groups of figures before (I could be wrong?) so maybe look better with crouched action stances which would work well
this is a fresh approach altogether where Tamiya are packaging behind a wall or vehicle. Tamiya provide good colour references
commissioned tooling and moulding from Master Box? Whatever and a bonus sheet of rations boxes to assemble.
the reason this is a very nice looking set of figures which will

Dragon 1:72 Ersatz M10

I thought this an unusual choice of subject in 1:35 by DML but ease of production-line assembly. The new parts also fall short of
they made a really nice job of that kit, not so much here I'm afraid; the superb standards set by Dragon with not a great deal of
a bit of a disappointment for small scale fans as most of the kit finesse to report unfortunately. No doubt this will be a very simple
relies on the older Dragon Panther which is moulded with the build and an easy way to add this odd-ball Panther to your
'ready made and painted' market in mind with simplified detail for collection but disappointing by Dragon's standards

Archer Fine Transfers

Excellent news for Allied modellers, namely
Commonwealth and British subjects, with five new sets of
Archers excellent waterslide decals under their AFT brand.
All of the decals are in 1:35 and being printed by
Cartograf are first rate quality. There's a large selection of
choice and size on each sheet which should allow you to
mix and match most scenarios from Summer 1943 -
Spring 1945. AR77026 are British Armoured Division Unit
Symbols, AR77028 are British Infantry, AR77031 covers
British and Commonwealth AOS symbols (black and white
style) and AR77037 are the coloured style. Finally
AR77030 are British Royal Artillery Tactical markings. Each
54 set has well researched and detailed marking descriptions
and application guides.
Mirror Models 1:35 Russian Artillery Tractor T-20 Komsomoletz (early)
With a change to their regular Commonwealth vehicles, Mirror diorama potential. Individual track links will be a little tedious at
models have released this early-war tractor, the 'Special Edition' such a small size but surely worth the effort to keep the high
set containing a bonus Russian fuel trailer. Such a tiny vehicle standard of detail throughout. The fuel trailer provides a nice
means this is more like assembling a 1:72 piece of armour, the touch and is of an equal high standard with the wheels provided
delicate diminutive feel of the tractor has been captured really well as 'sliced' sections to give good tread definition. Along with
with some superb fine detail. As with the other Mirror kits we've Russian markings, Finnish and German are also provided on a
looked at the vehicle builds from flat plates which will mean some small decal sheet. Building instructions are an improved diagram
care with alignment but ultimately better detail. The kit designers type with clear enlarged line drawings and explanatory text.
have done well to avoid any knockout pin marks on any outer or Another high quality release of a quirky subject and more details
inner faces. A full engine and interior (!) allows a fully opened up can be found at: www.mirror-models.com
display and an optional folded seating arrangement offers

Nuts & Bolts Volume 30

Nebel-, Panzer-und Vielfachwefer
By J Baschin, M.Block, J.Nelson & H.Tippmann
Softback format, 208 pages English/German text
Published by Nuts & Bolts
www.nuts-bolts.de Available in the UK from
Historex Agents www.historexagents.com

Rocket launchers anyone? The Nuts and Bolts team delve into the collection of archive images providing a wealth of modelling
world of WWII German ‘Werfer’ with all their usual flair and inspiration. The ammunition carrier version is also covered along
thoroughness in this substantial 208 page study. The book follows with the rare Vielfachwerfer based on the Katjuscha rocket
the usual format with an in depth look at the development of the system. 1:35 scale plans are the next section with coverage of all
different weapons systems, their deployment with abbreviated the different weapons and in some cases the prototype vehicles
individual unit histories and notes on colour schemes and too. This is followed by the 9 page colour profile section with
modelling. Then its on to the archive images, beginning with the profiles tied to the archive images that they are based on. The
wheeled Nebelwerfer and images of it in service and being towed. book concludes with a comprehensive walkaround section looking
Some superb shots of other experimental designs are included. at preserved examples of the weapons and vehicles and the usual
The frame mounted Wurfkorper is also covered as well as the modelling section. Without doubt the best modelling reference on 55
Nebelwerfer 41 with great images of the weapon in service. Next this subject.
is the Panzerwerfer which gets extensive coverage in a superb
 adds his own touches to
Trumpeter’s 1:35 kit.
During the Second World War the Soviets relied heavily on the use of
tractors for their heavy artillery and mortars to make their way across the
battlefield. The most ominous of these was the ChTZ S-65 “Stalinez”
tractor which was built in the Chelyabinskiy Traktornyy Zavod (ChTZ ) in the
city of Chelyabinsk. Founded in 1933, the ChTZ factory began producing
agricultural tractors first with the S-60, which was a copy of the American
built Caterpillar 60 which was followed by an improved diesel powered
version of the tractor, the S-65. With the outbreak of war in 1941 the
majority of the 37,626 Sons of Stalin (Stalinez) were pressed into military
service where they were used to pull the larger Soviet artillery guns such
as the 152 mm M1937 ML-20 and the B4 M1931 203mm Howitzers.

The S-65 tractor, although strong and either Soviet or German themes would find with the LZ Models engine and radiator
durable was incredible slow with a plenty of examples of these tractors in upgrades on the way and within a couple
maximum speed of only 7 miles per hour. service. For me, however, the affection is of weeks my workbench was full of plastic
After the invasion of Russia in 1941 the simply the fact it was a big, hulking tractor. and resin. During the course of sharing
German army captured thousands of Something about these utilitarian photos, one photo in particular caught my
these hefty vehicles which were then workhorse vehicles that really catches my attention. It was of an S-65 pressed into
quickly pressed into use recovering fancy, and apparently I’m not the only German service and it appeared as
vehicles stuck in the heavy Russian mud person who has more than a passing though they had mounted a field
as a result of the autumn rainy period interest in these utilitarian beasts. Shortly constructed boom to the front of the
known as Rasputitsa. More often, after the kit’s release the folks on the MIG vehicle which then held a bar onto which a
however, the Germans used the S-65 in Productions forum began organizing a number (14) T34 road wheels. The boom
their original role as an artillery tractor “Stalinez Smack Down” group build. As and wheels are supported by an unlikely
pulling German guns such as the sFH 18. the number of participant’s increased, the configuration of cables that run through a
forum thread became full of reference tall post and then somehow attached to
Trumpeter really hit a chord with modellers photos and "Smack Down” talk. My the rear of the tractor. It was an interesting
when it released the S-65 tractor. Finally, resistance, which was already low, gave field modification that I'm still not really
all of those wonderful artillery pieces would way and it wasn’t long before I decided sure what it was for, but my guess is for
have something to lug them around with. joined into the fun as well. A few mouse some type of road work. This was my
56
Furthermore, modellers with interests in clicks later I had the Trumpeter kit along Smack Down vehicle!
The Trumpeter kit is moulded in light short coming; it lacks an engine. This
grey plastic with the parts appearing leaves the modelers’ only option to
with very little flash. The fit of the parts construct the tractor with the large side
is generally very good and combined engine panels in place. The oversight is
with the clear instructions and relatively unfortunate as even a quick glance at
few parts this is the type of project that period photos show that many of these
can easily be constructed over the service tractors where in use with the
course of a rainy weekend. The kit, large side panels removed for
however, does have a few issues that increased engine ventilation. Luckily,
you should be aware of. First, the front Trumpeters omission has been
radiator contains a couple of spelling remedied by Libor of LZ Models who
errors. The first error being the name quickly brought an excellent resin
CTA
HE (Russian for STALINETZ) engine to the market. The LZ Models
shows the English style “N” rather than engine is nothing short of brilliant. If
the reversed looking “”, with the that wasn’t enough, LZ Models also
same issue replicated on the lower offers a replacement front radiator with
radiator letters for the word “Diesel”. the correct spelling and photo etched
In addition to these errors the parts for the front mesh and tractor
57
Trumpeter kit does have one basic logo.
 This figure gives an idea of
the enormous size of the
LZ engine.

For a little fun, a bench was

constructed to stand the
engine on during assembly.

I began my work with the LZ Models also included. I found the references along with two separate inner brackets to
engine. I am familiar with the LZ Models particularly helpful as I decided to detail form each link; 34 per side. These parts
brand and once again Libor has produced the engine a bit by adding some wiring have quite a few attachment points and
an excellent product. Once I unpacked the and extra plumbing just to make things as such require a little extra time for
engine I was surprised by the size of this looks a little busier. As the engine clean-up. Once completed, however, you
thing...it was huge! Getting into the progressed there becomes a time where are rewarded with a pair of extremely
relaxed nature of the group build I certain fittings and brackets of the engine nice, workable tracks. On the boogie
decided to have a little fun by first building needed to be fit onto the Trumpeter kit. So sponsons I chose to use only one side of
a quick bench on which to hold my engine I cracked open the Trumpeter box to the photo etched mud deflectors as
during construction and placed a ‘worker’ begin construction of the kit chassis. A provided by the LZ update set – if only for
in some of the early photos just to add a few test fits confirmed that the LZ Models the sake of personalizing my model.
sense of scale. As with all of the LZ range engine would fit perfectly onto the Building of the tractor’s upper areas is a
of products the The LZ parts are poured in Trumpeter chassis. The LZ Models fairly straight forward affair and moves
light coloured resin with the instructions radiator and engine were glued to the along quickly thanks for larger parts and
presented on a small CD disc. The step chassis without incident and it was time to clear instructions.
by step instructions are easy to follow and move onto the next steps.
a link to a walk around reference site is The tracks are offered as individual pads

58
The primary focus of this beast, each edge with thin strip. Finally, I decided to install the hood as I
however, is the extended boom to the A friend happened to have a set of felt that the totally exposed engine would
front of the vehicle. After a bit of T34 wheels from the Tamiya kit which draw to much focus from the viewer and
head-scratching trying to figure out I borrowed a pair and made multiple I preferred to have the focus drawn to
the exact arrangement of the boom castings as seen in the reference the front boom.
and rigging I finally decided to just photo. I debated on whether or not to
"wing it" using my best guesses based construct the roof/cab as seen on the
from the photo (and a little common photo and in the end I decided to
sense?). From the reference it make a simplified version of the roof in
appears that the boom was made keeping with the field modified nature
from found materials, perhaps even of the project. I also debated whether
bridging joists. I decided to follow this or not to show the engine totally
notion and cut two shapes from exposed, or to install the top of the
plastic sheet, punched 4 lightening hood.
holes into each (improvised - not
found on the photo) and then capped

I’ve been told by some who have First, I work very quickly. When I paint
viewed my work that they can tell it's and weather I move from one step to
my piece even before they see my the next in rapid succession. Honestly,
name attached. Perhaps they are just except for the drying times of the oil
“blowing smoke”, but if it’s true then it a paints I could often finish the painting
huge compliment. It got me to and weathering of my pieces in a
wondering. If we start with the premise matter of hours. I don't labour over the
the most modelers are using basically small details. I liken my technique to
the same materials and know the same sketching, rather than drawing. I am
techniques and tricks then what might more concerned about capturing the
set my work apart? The accompanying mood and atmosphere rather than
photos will show the basic steps that I capturing each and every small bolt
take when painting and weathering. My and buckle. Maybe it's simple laziness
guess is that most modelers will on my part, but I feel that the quickness
recognize the techniques as most are can translate to a certain vibrancy or
fairly common practice these days. energy in the finished presentation. Model Master Metalizer
Here are a few of my thoughts: Laquers provide the
raw-steel base colour to
the individual track links.

Mr Surfacer
gives a good Oil paint and pigment
key for the top washes provide the look
coats of colour. of the ground-in dirt.

59
 The primer colours are A protective coat of
mixed from Tamiya colours Future is airbrushed
and applied randomly. to protect the primer
followed by a coat of
hairspray.

A random coverage of the

green is built slowly, the
tonal differences add depth
and highlights in key areas.

First, I realize that Colour Modulation is all way to take the certain aspects of Colour on lower or recessed surfaces just for the
the rage these days. I have used it and I Modulation and incorporate them in a sake of breaking the rules. From the
can see the validity of the technique for new ways. So what do I do differently? I accompanying photos you might also
producing eye catching results. However, believe that the majority of my finished notice that the green vehicle base colour
with so many modelers following suit appearance begins with my early base is actually a comprised of varying shades
these days I feel that the technique and colors. You will notice from the of green. It’s all about the multiple layers
results have become somewhat accompanying photos that my base and subtle shifts of colour over the entire
predictable. I see that the same surfaces colours are varied - or random in model with the point of view not always
are highlighted, the same fittings are application. I do use shadows and consistent with the rules of Modulation or
exaggerated and the same look is found highlights (similar to modulation) but my a Zenithal light source. The instances can
on many models. Please don’t get me patterns are not necessarily tied to the be subtle, but I feel that the overall
wrong, I am not trying to be critical of rules of modulation. For instance, my accumulation of these small “rule
Colour Modulation or the models highlight tones are not always found on breakers” can bring an added level of
presented using the technique. What I the upper, leading edge surfaces. There visual interest to the finished piece.
am trying to say is that perhaps there is a are times that I will apply the lighter tones

Warm water and a stiff brush

remove the green on it’s base
coat of hairspray in a random As with the tracks, the metalizer
fashion. This is enhanced further gives a polished look to the contact
60 with acrylics and fine brushwork. surfaces of the sprocket teeth.
The second point is that I am not overly concerned that the Finally, it's all about the oils baby! Once I have
green colour(s) completely covering the oxidized reddish colours achieved a random base surface - some
underneath, especially on the lower sections. The incomplete might call it a mess! - I need to bring it all
nature of this layer is somewhat contributed by the speed at together. The Magic really happens during the
which I work, but the end result is intentional. It's really about finish work done with the oils. The subtle
the "happy accidents" at the early stages. I have learned from colour shifts and blending that the oils can
experience that the more interesting that I can make my early give you is what ties it all together. Keeping in
base layers then the more interesting (and pleasing?) the final mind that I use the variations of the base
results will be. So, with this in mind at this stage I am really not finish to key off of - these are my ‘points of
overly concerned about complete and even coverage. Taking interest;. What I mean is this; if I have
this a step further you can see how the hairspray technique fits produced some random little patch of
perfectly into my style of work as I am able to further manipulate oxidized surface either though an uneven
the base layers through the “random” removal of paint. application of paint or chipped off via the
hairspray technique, I will use this as an
opportunity to enhance, refine and create a
visual interest point. With this in mind, you
can see how this ties in perfectly with my
earlier steps (quick, random base application)
as now I have a lot of small ‘points of interest’
which to play with.

Filters can help harmonise

the previous colour work and
give subtle shifts of tone.

61
62
What I hope is that in the end my result is a
piece that is interesting to look at but doesn't
seem exaggerated. I strive to keep the viewer’s
eye moving from one interest point to the next,
one highlight area to the next, one chip to the
next scratch. All the while I am trying to balance
the result between artistic expression and
realistic finish.

I'm not sure why I got onto this topic; I guess

that it was just on my mind this morning. I am
simply sharing some of my random thoughts
about the hobby that I enjoy so much. Generally
I don't think about this type of thing too much, I
just do it. Maybe from time to time it's a good
idea to take stock of one’s self as a modeller -
and dare say even an artist. Happy modelling.

63
 +1%1MK;EMEEDME#I;?B#KECM#BDGEMN'4!
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TANKART Vol. 1




WWII German Armor
£19.95
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in an layered array to tell the story of each model.
 The book is 8.5w" x 9.5l" format, 208 pages. There are 5 models
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