Cozy home socks

Shocks: Knitted garment that covers the foot

and is cinched with elastic around the leg,
at least above the ankle and at most below
the knee; It is used as a warm garment and
as protection against chafing from closed
footwear.
3 MM X3
/4
2.5 US
11 UK

X Julieannknitter CA
 YOU WILL NEED
- 3 [3, 4, 4] skeins of We Are Knitters The Merifine (100gr) 18 [20, 22, 24] cm / 7 [8, 8 1/2, 9 1/2] in
40 [44, 48, 52]

- 3 mm / 2.5 US / 11 UK circular knitting needles

- One sewing needle to finish and connect your pieces

42 [44, 46, 48] cm / 16 1/2 [17 1/2, 18, 19] in*

These are the stitches and techniques you’ll need to complete this
project:

1. Cast on 7. SKPO (slip, knit, pass

over)*
2. Work in the round (magic
loop)* 8. Work 2 together*

3. 2x2 Rib stitch 9. Pick up stitches

4. Stockinette stitch 10. Measure foot*

5. Change colors and cut the 11. Kitchener stitch

yarn*
12. Weave in ends
6. Slip 1 stitch*
*The total length is a suggestion and depends on the desired measurement,
so the amound of rounds vary.
* These techniques are explained in the introduction

Tutorials for many of these stitches and techniques can be found on

our website, make sure to watch them and practice.

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 GAUGE

Take time to save time! Spend 10 minutes Ultimately, knitting is an art, not a science
making your sample ahead of time, to and you aren’t a machine; so it’s normal to
prevent having to adjust your pattern after have a small variation of 1-3 cm in the end.
you’ve already begun, which can take hours
or days to change, especially if you have to You can find more information about creating
start over completely. a tension sample in our blog post “How to
measure a tension sample” that you will find
The tension sample is the tension on our web site [Link]
recommended for your project. It is very
important to make a tension sample in
a 10x10 cm (4”x4”) area, where you can KNIT THE GAUGE IN:
count the number of rows and stitches that
fit in order to ensure that your tension is
correct for the project. With this method,
STOCKINETTE STITCH
your measurements will correspond with the
specifications in the schematic. 10 X 10 cm

28 rows

4” x 4”
If your sample is smaller than recommended, 3
try to knit more loosely. If your sample is
22 stitches
larger than recommended, try to knit more
tightly.

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 INTRODUCTION
This project is worked in 2 pieces in the round and in 2 colors (A and B).

Color A: 2 [2, 3, 3] skeins

Color B: 1 [1, 1, 1] skein

This pattern is written for four sizes S [M, L, XL]. Follow the instructions for the size you are making, keeping in mind
that the first number refers to size S, the second to size M, the third to size L, and the fourth to size XL. When only
one number is given, it is the same for all sizes. If there is a 0 on your size, it means that instruction does not apply to
your size and you don’t need to work it, go to the next instruction.

We recommend circling or highlighting the numbers in the pattern that correspond to the size you are making before
beginning to make it easier to follow the pattern instructions.

Before beginning it is important that you know how to do the following techniques:

Work in the round (magic loop): to work in the round, when you finish casting on, don’t turn the work. Continue by
working into the first stitch that you cast on. This way the right side of the work will always be facing you, and you will
create a tube without having to sew the sides together.

In some projects worked with circular needles, it’s likely that the diameter of the project is less than the diameter
of the needles. In these cases, the magic loop technique is used, which consists of pulling out a part of the cable
between the needles and twisting it, creating a loop. You can do it in one or a few points in the round as needed. This
will bring the stitches together, allowing you to handle the needles better when working in the round.

You can find more details on how to do this on [Link] under the posts “HOW TO KNIT IN THE
ROUND” and “HOW TO KNIT IN THE ROUND USING THE MAGIC LOOP METHOD”.

Change colors and cut the yarn: When the pattern tells you to change colors, at the end of the row of the color

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you’ve been using, cut the yarn, leaving a tail about 8 inches (20 cm) long to weave in later and begin working with
the new color.

Slip 1: To slip 1 stitch, place the yarn where indicated in the pattern, insert the right needle as if to purl and slip the
stitch to the right needle without working it.

SKPO (slip, knit, pass over): Slip 1 stitch as if you were going to knit it. Knit the next stitch. Using your left-hand
needle pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch.

You can find more details on how to do this on our web page at [Link] under the tutorial “SLIP,
KNIT, PASS OVER (SKPO)”.

Work 2 stitches together: Work 2 stitches together as if they were 1 stitch.

You can find more details on how to do this on our web page at [Link] under the tutorial “HOW TO
KNIT 2 STITCHES TOGETHER (K2TOG)”.

Measure foot: to measure your foot, place a measuring tape on the floor and align it with the edge of your heel. Then
measure from here to the edge of your big toe. Note this measurement then subtract 1 1/4” (3 cm). This will be the
final measurement, since the sock will need to be 1 1/4” (3 cm) shorter than your foot.

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 START KNITTING
1. Cast on 40 [44, 48, 52] stitches with color A onto one of the wooden needles.

2. Work rounds 1 to 12 in 2x2 rib stitch in the round, which means:

Rounds 1 to 12: *knit 2, purl 2*. Repeat from * to * until the end of the round**.

*ATTENTION! Be sure that the stitches are all straight and that they are not twisted around the needles before closing
the work in the round. We recommend placing a stitch marker before the first stitch to easily find where the round
begins.

**ATTENTION! When, in the same row, you work a knit stitch followed by a purl stitch (or vice versa), you have to
change the position of your working yarn. Place the working yarn in front of your work to make a purl stitch and place
the working yarn behind your work to make a knit stitch.

3. Work rounds 13 to 48 in stockinette stitch in the round, keeping in mind the color changes on the specified rounds:

Rounds 13 to 18: knit all stitches with color A.

Rounds 19 to 22: knit all stitches with color B.

Rounds 23 to 26: knit all stitches with color A.

Rounds 27 to 30: knit all stitches with color B.

Rows 31 to 48: knit all stitches with color A.

4. Now we are going to work the heel. To do this, work rows 49 to 68 [68, 72, 72] flat, keeping in mind these
instructions:

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Row 49: slip 1 with yarn in front of the work and knit 19 [21, 23, 25]. Turn the work.

Continue working these 20 [22, 24, 26] stitches and leave the other 20 [22, 24, 26] stitches on hold to work later.

Row 50: slip 1 with yarn in front of the work and purl all stitches.

Row 51: slip 1 with yarn in the back of the work and knit all stitches.

Repeat rows 50 and 51 until you reach row 68 [68, 72, 72].

5. Now we are going to turn the heel. To do this, continue working flat from rows 69 [69, 73, 73] to 76 [76, 80, 80],
keeping in mind the following decreases and short rows:

Row 69 [69, 73, 73]: slip 1 with yarn in the back of the work, knit 10 [12, 14, 16] stitches, SKPO, knit 1 and turn the
work.

Row 70 [70, 74, 74]: slip 1 with yarn in front of the work, purl 3 [5, 7, 9], purl 2 together, purl 1 and turn the work.

Row 71 [71, 75, 75]: slip 1 with yarn in the back the work, knit 4 [6, 8, 10] stitches, SKPO knit 1 and turn the work.

Row 72 [72, 76, 76]: slip 1 with yarn in front of the work, purl 5 [7, 9, 11], purl 2 together, purl 1 and turn the work.

Row 73 [73, 77, 77]: slip 1 with yarn in the back of the work, knit 6 [8, 10, 12], SKPO, knit 1 and turn the work.

Row 74 [74, 78, 78]: slip 1 with yarn in front of the work, purl 7 [9, 11, 13], purl 2 together, purl 1 and turn the work.

Row 75 [75, 79, 79]: slip 1 with yarn in the back of the work, knit 8 [10, 12, 14], SKPO, knit 1 and turn the work.

Row 76 [76, 80, 80]: slip 1 with yarn in front of the work, purl 9 [11, 13, 15], purl 2 together, purl 1 and turn the work.
You will have 12 [14, 16, 18] stitches.

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6. To continue working the instep, work round 77 [77, 81, 81] as follows:

Round 77 [77, 81, 81]: slip 1 with yarn in the back of the work and knit 11 [13, 15, 17]. Now without turning the work,
pick up 11 [11, 13, 13] stitches along the side of the heel rows, slip the 20 [22, 24, 26] stitches that you left on hold
onto the left needle and knit them. Pick up 11 [11, 13, 13] stitches on the other side of the heel. Don’t turn the work,
continue working in the round, knit 6 [7, 8, 9] more stitches. This will now be the end of the round*. You will have 54
[58, 66, 70] stitches.

*Place 2 stitch markers. The first is going to mark the beginning and the end of the round as it has since the
beginning of the pattern. Place the other marker into the first stitch of the previous round. This second marker will
indicate the start of your foot and will help you when measuring the foot.

7. Work rounds 78 [78, 82, 82] to 92 [92, 100, 100] in stockinette stitch, keeping in mind the following decreases:

Round 78 [78, 82, 82] and unspecified rounds: knit all stitches.

Round 79 [79, 83, 83]: knit 14 [15, 18, 19], SKPO. Knit 22 [24, 26, 28]. Knit 2 together and knit the remaining stitches.
You will have 52 [56, 64, 68] stitches.

Round 81 [81, 85, 85]: knit 13 [14, 17, 18], SKPO. Knit 22 [24, 26, 28]. Knit 2 together and knit the remaining stitches.
You will have 50 [54, 62, 66] stitches.

Round 83 [83, 87, 87]: knit 12 [13, 16, 17], SKPO. Knit 22 [24, 26, 28]. Knit 2 together and knit the remaining stitches.
You will have 48 [52, 60, 64] stitches.

Round 85 [85, 89, 89]: knit 11 [12, 15, 16]. SKPO. Knit 22 [24, 26, 28]. Knit 2 together and knit the remaining stitches.
You will have 46 [50, 58, 62] stitches.

Round 87 [87, 91, 91]: knit 10 [11, 14, 15], SKPO. Knit 22 [24, 26, 28]. Knit 2 together and knit the remaining stitches.
You will have 44 [48, 56, 60] stitches.

Round 89 [89, 93, 93]: knit 9 [10, 13, 14], SKPO. Knit 22 [24, 26, 28]. Knit 2 together and knit the remaining stitches.

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You will have 42 [46, 54, 58] stitches.

Round 91 [91, 95, 95]: knit 8 [9, 12, 13], SKPO. Knit 22 [24, 26, 28]. Knit 2 together and knit the remaining stitches.
You will have 40 [44, 52, 56] knit stitches.

Sizes L and XL

Round 97 [97]: knit 11 [12], SKPO. Knit 26 [28]. Knit 2 together and knit the remaining stitches. You will have 50 [54]
knit stitches.

Round 99 [99]: knit 10 [11], SKPO. Knit 26 [28]. Knit 2 together and knit the remaining stitches. You will have 48 [52]
knit stitches.

All sizes

8. From here, we are going to work the foot. Do do this, work with color A and in stockinette stitch in the round until
there are 2.5 inches (6 cm) from the final measurement of the foot*.

*To find this measurement, follow the instructions in the introduction.

9. Now we are going to work the rest of the sock. To do this, start the round count again from here. Work rounds 1 to
12 in stockinette stitch in the round, keeping in mind the following color changes:

Rounds 1 to 4: color B.

Rounds 5 to 8: color A.

Rounds 9 to 12: color B.

10. To work the toe, work rounds 13 to 24 [26, 26, 28] in stockinette stitch with color A, keeping in mind the decreases
on the specified rounds. Work the unspecified rounds in stockinette stitch.

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Round 13: knit 7 [8, 9, 10], SKPO, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 14 [16, 18, 20], SKPO, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 7 [8, 9,
10]. You will have 36 [40, 44, 48] stitches.

Round 15: knit 6 [7, 8, 9], SKPO, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 12 [14, 16, 18], SKPO, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 6 [7, 8,
9]. You will have 32 [36, 40, 44] stitches.

Round 17: knit 5 [6, 7, 8], SKPO, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 10 [12, 14, 16], SKPO, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 5 [6, 7,
8]. You will have 28 [32, 36, 40] stitches.

Round 19: knit 4 [5, 6, 7], SKPO, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 8 [10, 12, 14], SKPO, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 4 [5, 6,
7]. You will have 24 [28, 32, 36] stitches.

Round 21: knit 3 [4, 5, 6], SKPO, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 6 [8, 10, 12], SKPO, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 3 [4, 5, 6].
You will have 20 [24, 28, 32] stitches.

Round 23: knit 2 [3, 4, 5], SKPO, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 4 [6, 8, 10], SKPO, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 [3, 4, 5].
You will have 16 [20, 24, 28] stitches.

Sizes M, L and XL

Round 25: knit 2 [3, 4], SKPO, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 4 [6, 8], SKPO, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2 [3, 4]. You will
have 16 [20, 24] stitches.

Size XL

Round 27: knit 3, SKPO, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 6, SKPO, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 3. You will have 20 stitches.

All sizes

11. Now we are going to finish the tow. To do this, cut the strand about 8 inches (20 cm) from the end and divide the
first 4 [4, 5, 5] stitches and the last 4 [4, 5, 5] stitches into one the of needles and the 8 [8, 10, 10] center stitches onto

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the other needle. Use Kitchener stitch to close them off as follows:

1. Thread the tapestry needle with the yarn and pass it through the first open stitch from back to front.

2. Once you have passed the yarn through the first stitch, bring the yarn to the first stitch in the back and pass it through the
stitch.

3. Return to the first stitch in the front, bring the needle from front to back. You have now closed off the first stitch.

Repeat steps 1 to 3 until you have closed off the 8 [8, 10, 10] stitches you had on hold and make a knot.

You can find these instructions in the tutorial under the post “INVISIBLE SEAMS (KITCHENER STITCH)” on our blog at
[Link].

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 JOIN AND FINISH
To finish, make a knot and weave in the tail end of
yarn about 3 inches (8 cm), cut off even with the fabric.
Weave in any loose ends in the same way.

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