SHANTO MARIAM UNIVERSITY OF CREATIVE TECHOLOGY

Module Name: Circular Knit Machine & Engineering & Fully

Fashion Knitwear
Module Code- KNT-4309

Final Assessment

Submitted To:
S.M. Sudrul Amin
Lecturer (SMUCT)
Department: FDT
Submitted By:
Name: Romana Akter
ID: 191011137
Group: A
Semester: 12th
Batch: 35th

Submission Date: 15th March, 2023

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Table Of Content
S. No Title Page s. no
1 Introduction to Circular Knitting Machine 3-6

2 Introduction of Knitting 6-7

3 Classification of Knitting 8-11

4 Classification of Knitting Machine 11-19

5 Features of Circular Knitting Machine 19-32

6 Features of Flatted Knitting Machine 32-36

7 Parts of Circular Knitting Machine with their Functions 36-39

8 Checking Par meters of Circular Knitting Machine 39-41

9 Output of Circular Knitting Machine 42-43

10 Introduction to fully Fashion knitwear 44-47

11 Features of a manual Sweater Machine 47-49

12 Features of a Jacquard Sweater Machine 49-51

13 Different Part of Sweater Machine and their Functions 52-60

14 Different Stitches used in sweater with Pictures 60-63

15 Different Yarns used in sweater with Pictures 63-67

16 Style Analysis of Sweaters 68-70

17 Quality Guideline of Sweaters 71-74

18 Quality Chart Prepare in Sweaters 74-75

19 Process Flow Chart of fully-Fashioned Knitwear Quality Control 75-77

20 Conclusion 48

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Introduction to Circular Knitting Machine
Circular Knitting Machine:
In this machine the needles are implanted on a circular cylinder, which when used creates a seamless
tube of fabric, by joining the stiches from the needles. Double Jersey Machine: Double jersey machines
have two sets of needles; one on dial and as well as on cylinder.

A circular knitting machine makes knitting so easy; in fact, creating a pair of socks will take you less
than an hour. This means that you will easily be able to make anything that you want to give as a gift to
your friends and family this holiday season.
In this guide, I am going to talk a little bit about circular knitting machines, the different types that are
available to you, the technology behind the machines, and teach you how to use them so that when you
purchase your own circular knitting machine, you will have all of the information that you need to start
knitting.

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The Basics of a Circular Knitting Machine
Circular knitting is when you create something that has a circular pattern without leaving a seam behind.
Some of the most common articles of clothing that use this type of knitting are socks and mittens.

There are a few techniques that you can use to speed up the creative process of knitting, but a circular
knitting machine can be a great option.

When you use one of these machines, the yarn will be weaved around the rim of the machine.
This is called the needle bar, and it will move back and forth as another bar pressed down on the needles
to release the yarn and create a stitch. Since some machines have more than 200 needles, it speeds the
process, especially when you are attempting to knit more complex patterns and use multiple colors in
your creation.
Typically, a knitting machine such as this will be used as a way to produce a lot of items in a relatively
small amount of time.

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 Types of Circular Knitting Machines
Knitting machines can be broken down into two main types, so before you decide to purchase one,
decide which type of knitting you will be doing with the machine more often. The two machine types
are:

Warp Knitting Machine

This machine is designed to knit the yarn in a vertical fashion, so you will notice that the fabric will
have yarn running lengthwise in the finished garments.
Since this type of machine used a lot of threads at the same time to bind the yarn together, it is considered
to be run-proof, which means that the colors will be separated. Warp knitting can be divided into three
different types of knitting, all of which can be created using this machine.
• Milanese – This type of knitting uses several different sets of yarn. This creates a rib effect on the fabric
that many individuals love.
• Raschel – This is a type of knitting that is often used on lacy patterns that have a lot of intricate detail.
The fabric turns out to be coarse when it is finished, mainly because the stitch is so tight.
• Tricot – Tricot knitting results in a fabric that is tightly knit. Typically, the fabric resembles a mesh-like
fabric, and it is often seen on sweaters.

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Weft Knitting Machine

A weft knitting machine is designed to accommodate knitting patterns that have one continuous circle.

There are no breaks or seams in the design, which makes the sweater have a horizontal pattern when it
is complete. Since this is one long pattern, if something happens to the yarn, it can unravel the entire
garment.
This is often seen as a gag when a sweater loop gets torn, but unfortunately, this can really happen with
when this type of machine is used. There are three types of knitting that you will do with this type of
machine, which includes:

• Straight – A straight knit is one that is very commonly used, especially amongst beginners. This
can be done with a double needle or a single needle, but the finished product will have perfectly
straight lines from beginning to end.
• Flat – Flat knitting is when you go back and forth across the garment that you are creating. This
is commonly used for sweaters and fashion garments.
• Circular – This is the type of knitting that you will do with a circular knitting machine because
it allows you to allow the treads to by looped together continuously without any breaks or seams.

Types of Circular Knitting Machine for Different Knitting Techniques:

There are different types of circular knitting machines for different knitting techniques which are pointed
out in the below:
1. Open width knitting techniques machine,
2. Double jersey circular knitting machine,
3. Single jersey 4 track circular knitting machine,
4. Body size rib knitting machine,
5. Double jersey interlock knitting machine,
6. Double face terry circular knitting machine,
7. Computerized knitting machine with auto stripper,
8. Fleece machine interchangeable terry machine,
9. Circular knitting techniques machine,
10. Rib 4 track knitting techniques machine.

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Introduction of Knitting
Hand and machine knitted fabric is created by interlocking a series of loops. The loops are interlocked
using a needle to hold the existing loop while a new loop is formed in front of the old loop.

Knitting creates stitches: loops of yarn in a row,

either flat or in the round (tubular). There are
usually many active stitches on the knitting
needle at one time. Knitted fabric consists of a
number of consecutive rows of connected loops that
intermesh with the next and previous rows. As each
row is formed, each newly created loop is pulled
through one or more loops from the prior row and
placed on the gaining needle so that the loops from
the prior row can be pulled off the other needle
without unraveling.
Differences in yarn needle size, and stitch type allow for a variety of knitted fabrics with different
properties, including color, texture, thickness, heat retention, water resistance, and integrity. A small
sample of knitwork is known as a swatch.
Fashioning, loops and ladders
When knitting, increasing or decreasing the number of stitches in a row widens or narrows the garment
being created. Increasing is achieved by moving outer loops sideways on a frame and creating extra
loops. This process leaves a small eyelet hole in the fabric known as a fashioning mark. When
decreasing, the process is reversed and the loops move inwards. This time the fashioning mark appears
where two loops are compressed into one new loop. Garments shaped in this way are known as fully-
fashioned and regarded as high quality. Occasionally some firms used fake fashioning marks to make
garments appear to be fully-fashioned.

Knitting and types of knitting

Knit fabrics can generally be stretched to a greater degree than woven types. The two basic types of
knits are the weft, or filling knits—including plain, rib, purl, pattern, and double knits—and the warp
knits—including tricot, raschel, and Milanese.
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Classification of Knitting

Knitting is primarily classified as weft knitting and warp knitting. Knitting can be done by hand or
by machine. knitting is done by creating loops of yarn in a row, either flat or in the round.

Weft and warp knitting

There are two major varieties of knitting: weft knitting and warp knitting. In the more common weft
knitting, the wales are perpendicular to the course of the yarn. In warp knitting, the wales and courses
run roughly parallel. In weft knitting, the entire fabric may be produced from a single yarn, by adding
stitches to each wale in turn, moving across the fabric as in a raster scan. By contrast, in warp knitting,
one yarn is required for every wale. Since a typical piece of knitted fabric may have hundreds of wales,
warp knitting is typically done by machine, whereas weft knitting is done by both hand and
machine.[4] Warp-knitted fabrics such as tricot and Milanese are resistant to runs, and are commonly
used in lingerie.

Knitted Fabric Making

Knitted fabric is constructed by forming the yarns into loops. The vertical rows of loops stitches in knit
fabric are known as wales and the horizontal rows of loops are called courses. The loops are formed by
a group of needles or shafts, which are arranged one after the other in the knit-ting machine on the needle
plate. The needles are evenly placed. Sinker is used to pull the needles down, which pulls the yarn into
the previous loop. The knitted fabric is pulled down and rolled at the base of the machine and collected
for fur-ther use. Knitted fabrics are used for
1. Clothing (Underwear, Sweaters)
2. Home furnishing (Curtains, Towels)
3. Medical textiles (Grip Bandages)
4. Industrial textiles (Wipes, Absorbent Pads)

Knit and purl stitches

In securing the previous stitch in a wale, the next stitch can pass through the previous loop from either
below or above. If the former, the stitch is denoted as a 'knit stitch' or a 'plain stitch;' if the latter, as a
'purl stitch'. The two stitches are related in that a knit stitch seen from one side of the fabric appears as
a purl stitch on the other side.
The two types of stitches have a different visual effect; the knit stitches look like 'V's stacked vertically,
whereas the purl stitches look like a wavy horizontal line across the fabric. Patterns and pictures can be
created in knitted fabrics by using knit and purl stitches as "pixels"; however, such pixels are usually
rectangular, rather than square, depending on the gauge/tension of the knitting. Individual stitches, or
rows of stitches, may be made taller by drawing more yarn into the new loop (an elongated stitch), which
is the basis for uneven knitting: a row of tall stitches may alternate with one or more rows of short
stitches for an interesting visual effect. Short and tall stitches may also alternate within a row, forming
a fish-like oval pattern.

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Differences between knitting and crocheting

For many beginners, telling the difference between knitting and crocheting is very tricky. Both have the
same methods of stitching yarn together, but their methods are fairly different. When knitting, the
stitches form a shape that is similar to a "V", while in crochet the stitches are knotted together. Each
textile has its own specialties and methods. When knitting, a pair of long needles is needed to be able to
form the loops from one set of loop to another through the needles. When crocheting, only one single
hook is used to be able to hook the loops together directly onto the clothes. Often times, crocheting is
easier to work with at first as compared to knitting. Although different methods, they can create the
same project using the same fibers and yarns.

Texture
The most common texture for a knitted garment is that generated by the flat stockinette stitch—as seen,
though very small, in machine-made stockings and T-shirts—which is worked in the round as nothing
but knit stitches, and worked flat as alternating rows of knit and purl. Other simple textures can be made
with nothing but knit and purl stitches, including garter stitch, ribbing, and moss and seed stitches.
Adding a "slip stitch" (where a loop is passed from one needle to the other) allows for a wide range of
textures, including heel and linen stitches as well as a number of more complicated patterns.

Classification of Knitting Machine

Knitting, a process of making fabrics (textiles) that is generally done inter-looping of yarns. Knitting is
primarily classified as weft knitting and warp knitting. Knitting can be done by hand or by machine.
knitting is done by creating loops of yarn in a row, either flat or in the round. In this article, we will
show you a list of different types of industrial knitting machines available for making knitted fabrics.

Classification of Weft knitting machine

If the yarns run in the fabric widthwise or crosswise direction with reference to the direction of fabric
formation then the process is called weft knitting. This is just like weft yarns in woven fabrics. Weft
knitting machines are classified as the following.

Circular knitting machine

It is the most popular type knitting machine, widely used for manufacturing fabric for garments and
apparel purposes since it is circular in shape it is known as a circular knitting machine. Components of
circular knitting machines are latched needle, compound needle, sinker(single jersey), cam, cylinder,
dial. Machine diameter varies from 12 to 60 inches. Circular knitting machines further classified as the
following.

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Single jersey
Plain knitting machine
It is the most widely used variety of machines used in manufacturing knitted fabric. It has a set of latch
needle and a set of the sinker. Both revolve according to the knitting cam system that results in a precise
up and down motion. Here only one 1 track of cam operates and produced fabric as per the required
density and thickness of the fabric.

Two-track and Four-track single jersey

This type of machine can produce a variety of knitted fabric designs, with a high sped production. Here
no. of cams can be altered. It has a separate motion for each sinker and needle respectively with a
stationary cam system. It is used for manufacturing t-shirts, polo shirts, underwear, and swimsuits, etc

Terry knitting machine:

It consists of different types of sinkers, motor, inverter, oiler, yarn storage device. Fabric produced are
of different loop height. A device named CSA (central adjustment system) monitors the uniform fabric
density, cylinder diameter ranges from 26 to 34 inches. Terry knitting machine generally produces terry
towels and even with lycra yarns, it produces smoother fabric.

Jacquard Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine:

It operates with the three needle positions namely knit, tuck, and miss. It can produce a textured design
that usually includes flowers, brocade, matelassé, paisleys, damask, and animal patterns. Modern
machines are computerized with a USB system for information storage of design patterns.

Double jersey circular knitting machine

Rib knitting machine:
A rib knitting machine is one of the widely used knitting machines for manufacturing fabric for apparel
items. It is a double bed machine, with one set of needles in each bed and one cam track for each bed,
respectively.
Needles are in the opposite phase that is they are situated perpendicularly in the machine. Cylinder
needles move vertically while the dial needles move vertically. Fabric produced are comparatively more
stretchable than single jersey and interlock fabric.

Interlock knitting machine:

Knitting takes place in double bed machine, there are two sets of needles in each bed, short needles and
long needles and two cam tracks in each bed. Purl structures can also be made in the interlock machine
by allowing dual-ended latch needles and special devices of a drive. Fabric produced from this machine
has the same surface on both face and back, and this fabric is widely used in inner-wears, track pants,
etc.

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Pique circular knitting machine:

Fabric produced from this type of knitting machine shows a waffle weave look. The fabric also shows
a rough texture, widely used for making polo- shirts.

Straight Bar Knitting Machine:

Straight bar knitting machines have bearded needles on a vertical bar. Movement is controlled by the
precisely constructed cam system. Divisions are equally distributed along the length of the machine.
These machines are also known as hand flat, widely used in making sweaters just like handloom
weavers.

Flat Bar Knitting Machine

This machine is generally utilized for manufacturing 3D structured knitted fabric. Fabric produced is
quite similar to the circular knitting machine. Needles are arranged on a straight bar, which follows a
back and forth movement. These machines are used for making collars, arm-bands (cuff), and even in
some case sweaters too. There is a separate cam for each needle bed.

Different Types of Knitting Machines

A knitting machine is a device used to create knitted fabrics in a semi and fully automated form.
Various types of knitting machines are available for making knits fabric or knitting various parts of
knitted garments. Knitting machines are broadly classified as weft knitting and warp knitting machines.
In each of these machine classes – knitting machines are further classified depending on the machines
shape and knitting technology.
Different types of knitting machines used for making different types of knitted fabrics are listed here.

#1. Circular knitting machine (Single Jersey)

This machine is to make single jersey fabrics. Single jersey circular knitting machines are sometimes
known as just single jersey machines and single-knit machine.

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#2. Circular knitting machine (Double Jersey)
This machine is used to make double jersey fabrics (rib fabric). These circular knitting machines are
sometimes known as just double jersey machines, rib machines, and interlock machines.

#3. Garment-length Circular knitting machine

Instead of continuous fabric, this type of machine knits garment panels as per the garment patterns.

#4. Flat knitting machine (computer driven)

For an example, the polo shirt collars are made on a flat knitting machine. The flat knitting machine can
be used both for the single jersey and rib fabrics but fabrics come in open width.

#5. Hand knitting machine (Flat knitting - V-bed)

The manual flat knitting machines are widely used for knitting sweater parts.

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6. Computerized knitting machine

7. Circular knitting machine for hosiery/socks manufacturing

This type of machines is used for making socks

8. Warp knitting machines

Tricot and Raschel are two warp knitting machines.

#Tricot Knitting machine

#Raschel knitting machine

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#9. Jacquard knitting machine

Knitted Fabric Making

Knitted fabric is constructed by forming the yarns into loops. The vertical rows of loops stitches in knit
fabric are known as wales and the horizontal rows of loops are called courses. The loops are formed by
a group of needles or shafts, which are arranged one after the other in the knit-ting machine on the needle
plate. The needles are evenly placed. Sinker is used to pull the needles down, which pulls the yarn into
the previous loop. The knitted fabric is pulled down and rolled at the base of the machine and collected
for fur-there use. Knitted fabrics are used for
1. Clothing (Underwear, Sweaters)
2. Home furnishing (Curtains, Towels)
3. Medical textiles (Grip Bandages)
4. Industrial textiles (Wipes, Absorbent Pads)

Features of Circular Knitting Machine

Circular knitting machines are a kind of knitting machines which use polypropylene or polyethylene
plastic flat silk materials to knit into cylinder knitted fabrics. Circular knitting machines are suitable for
flat filaments, including 100% recycle plastic flat filaments. Circular knitting machines have the
advantages of advanced design, reasonable structure, easy operation, convenient maintenance, low
power consumption and high production efficiency.
Knitting Machine Features
• 4-Bed Configuration.
• Spring-Type Movable Sinker System.
• Loop Presser Bed.
• i-Plating.
• Transfer Jack Bed.
• Double Racking Mechanism.

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Characteristics of circular knitting machines:
1.
A detector exists on circular knitting machines which detects warps and wefts. It can supervise
behavior of warps or wefts in service real time. When wefts or warps break or finish, detector
can show the direction and stop the machine from operating automatically.

2. Tension on warps or wefts can be controlled by machines automatically. The surface of woven
bag is smooth and beautiful.

3. Micro-electric control. Meters are counted automatically and shown by data.

4. Intelligent ascension takes place of conventional mechanical dense gear variation of wefts.

5. The upper and lower tracks of shuttles in circular knitting machines are handled by hard
chromium plating, highly improving its abrasive resistance.

6. Frequency conversion of machines is stable.

7. Circular knitting machines have hyperbola cams, nylon slides and brown box sliders. Oil pump
outside machines force oil-bath for lubrication. Circular knitting machines have less abrasion
and low maintenance costs.

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Features of Flatted Knitting Machine
Features such as digital stitch device, stitch presser system, spring-type sinkers, needle breakage sensor,
automatic oiling system and rapid carriage return system, ensure precise stitch control, loop formation,
knitting speed and lower machine downtime.

A flat knitting machine is a two-bed machine. The most important mechanical features of a flat knitting
machine are the supporting frame, the yarn feeding system, a transmission system, a fabric takedown
motion, a central programming unit, and a needle-bed racking system.
The manual flat knitting machine is made up of a frame carrying the base; this structure supports all the
needle beds and motions necessary for the knitting process
The yarn unwound from the spool is picked up by the feeding system: a tensioner, which adjusts the
feeding tension and a thread guide, driven by the machine carriage, which provides the needle with yarn
at the proper time.
The tensioner is made up by a spring-load, flexible arm, that lowers when the yarn tension increases, to
feed a bigger quantity of yarn, and lifts up when the tension decreases.

General Structure of a Flat Knitting Machine:

The Frame:
1. The needle beds
2. Concept of machine gauge
3. The carriage and yarn guides
4. Feeding the yarn
5. The takedown device
6. Selecting the needles
7. Selection of high and low butts

Main Features:
1. Flat knitting machine has two stationary needle beds
2. Latch needles are used
3. Angular cams of a bi-directional cam system are used
4. The cam system is attached to the underside of a carriage, which with its selected yarn carriers.
5. The carriage traverses in a reciprocating manner across the machine width
6. There is a separate cam system for each needle bed
7. The two cam systems are linked together by a bridge, which passes across from one needle bed
to the other.
8. Normally machine gauge is 3 to 18 needles per inch and machine width up to 79 inches.

Advantages of Flat Knitting Machine:

1. The flat machine is the most versatile of weft knitting machines, its stitch potential includes
needles election on one or both beds, racked stitches, needle-out designs, striping, tubular
knitting, changes of knitting width and loop transfer.
2. A wide range of yarn counts may be knitted per machine gauge including a number of ends of
yarn in one knitting system, the stitch length range is wide and there is the possibility of changing
the machine gauge.
3. The operation and supervision of the machines of the simpler type is relatively less arduous than
for other weft knitting machines.
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 4. The number of garments or panels simultaneously knitted across the machine is dependent upon
its knitting width, yarn carrier arrangement, yarn path and package accommodation.
5. Out of all weft knitting machines that are available to us, flat bed knitting machines are the most
versatile.
6. These knitting machines offer us with a high stitch potential which includes needle selection on
one or both beds, needle-out designs, racked stitches, tubular knitting, striping, loop transfer. By
making use of flat knitting machines, we can also change the width of the knitting fabric.
7. We can knit a wide range of yarn counts per machine gauge including the number of ends of
yarn in one knitting system by utilizing flatbed machines.
8. These machines offer us a wide stitch length range, and there is also the possibility of changing
the machine gauge.
9. As compared to the other weft knitting machines, the operation as well as supervision of these
knitting machines is effortless and is relatively less arduous.
10. These machines help in the production of knitting products like school uniform sweaters, T-
shirts, caps, stoles, mufflers by using different materials including cotton, silk, wool, polyester
to knit different patterns and designs. The number of garments or panels simultaneously knitted
across the machine is dependent upon its knitting width, yarn carrier arrangement, yarn path and
package accommodation.

Uses of Flat Knitting Machines:

Articles knitted on flat machines range from trimmings, edgings and collars to garment panels and
integrally knitted garments. The common products: jumpers, pullovers, cardigans, dresses, suits, trouser
suits, hats, scarves, accessories, ribs for straight-bar machines (fully fashioned machines). Cleaning
clothes, three-dimensional and fashioned products for technical applications, multiaxial machines are
under development.
Different types of garments that we can knit on flat knitting machines range from edgings, trimmings
and collars to garment panels and integrally knitted garments. We can efficiently manufacture products
like jumpers, pullovers, cardigans, dresses, suits, trouser suits, hats, scarves as well as many other
accessories on these straight-bar machines. However, for producing three-dimensional and fashioned
products for technical applications, we require multi-axial flat knitting machines which are under
development.

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Parts of Circular Knitting Machine with their Functions
Circular Knitting Machine in Textile:
In apparel manufacturing sector, knitted garment is one of the top demands from the buyer. Polo shirt,
T-shirt, under garments all are produced from knitted fabrics. Knitted fabric is produced by using
knitting machine. Among all the others knitting machine, circular knitting machine is widely used in
knit fabric production. This article has shown the various parts of circular knitting machine and their
functions.

Parts of Circular Knitting Machine:

Circular knitting machine contains the following parts:
1. Yarn tensioner,
2. Cam box,
3. Creel,
4. Feeder,
5. Needle,
6. Base plate,
7. Take up roller,
8. Yarn guide,
9. Cylinder,
10. Auto Stopper,
11. VDQ pulley,
12. Body,
13. Sinker.

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Functions of Circular knitting Machine Parts: Functions of all knitting machine parts have described
in the following:

1. Yarn tensioner: It is used to perfect gripping of yarn by needle.

2. Cam box: It is used to hold the cam according to the fabric design. Knitting cams are arranged
according to the design.
3. Creel: Creel is used to place the yarn cone. Yarn is supplied from here to the machine through
the pipe.
4. Feeder: It is totally related with fabric production. If the number of feeder is higher than fabric
production will be higher.
5. Needle: Needle is the main part of knitting machine. Needle is used to knit the fabric. There are
different types of needle such as latch needle, bearded needle, compound needle etc. Among
those latch needle is widely used in knitting technology.
6. Base plate: Cylinder is situated on the base plate.
7. Take up roller: It is used to take-up the fabric from the knitting machine. Take up roller also
controls the proper tension on the fabric.
8. Yarn guide: Yarn guide is used to guide the yarn. During it is necessary for maintaining proper
tension on yarn.
9. Cylinder: Cylinder is one of the important parts of knitting machine where all the needles are
set.
10. Auto Stopper: If knitting machine is in the faulty situation then auto stopper will stops the
knitting machine automatically.
11. VDQ pulley: VDQ means variable die for quality pulley. It controls the quality of the fabric.
VDQ pulley is very important in maintaining proper stitch length.
12. Body: Body of machine is the total area of knitting machine.
13. Sinker: During loop formation sinker is used to hold and support the thread.

Types of Circular Knitting Machine for Different Knitting Techniques:

There are different types of circular knitting machines for different knitting techniques which are pointed
out in the below:
1. Open width knitting techniques machine,
2. Double jersey circular knitting machine,
3. Single jersey 4 track circular knitting machine,
4. Body size rib knitting machine,
5. Double jersey interlock knitting machine,
6. Double face terry circular knitting machine,
7. Computerized knitting machine with auto stripper,
8. Fleece machine interchangeable terry machine,
9. Circular knitting techniques machine, 10. Rib 4 track knitting techniques machine.

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Checking Par meters of Circular Knitting Machine
Fabrics are produced mainly by knitting technique and weaving technique. Knit fabric production is
easier and quicker than weaving technique. Though knitting production is simple, its technical
parameters calculation is complicated and difficult than weaving. Technical parameters involved in the
knit fabrics are: loop structure, loop/stitch length, CPI ,WPI, GSM, shrinkage, spirality, fabric width etc.
In reality knitted loops in the fabric is curvilinear in shape but this work has done necessary analysis to
consider it like a circle, following thata circle geometry and corresponding formulae has been used in
formulating some parameters of circular knitted single jersey fabric. It is very difficult to maintain&
control circular knitted fabric parameters due to severalvariables (like yarn type, yarn quality, yarn twist,
fabric structure, machine speed, machine rotation, yarn tension, take up tension & many more) related
with circular knitting production and influences of them are unavoidable, so the parameters can be
varying more than acceptable limit. But still the derived formulae focus practical environment and help
to calculate parameters directly and easily.

Wales Per Inch

Wales per inch (WPI)indicate the total numbers of wales in one inch of linear fabric. WPI is one of the
important parameters to determine GSM of fabric and other fabric properties.

Courses Per Inch

Coursesper inch (CPI)indicate the numbers of courses in one inch of linear fabric. In the same manner,
CPI is one of the important parameters to determine GSM of knit fabric and other fabric properties.
Stitch length
Stitch length is theoretically the single length of yarn which include one needle loop and half of a sinker
loop between that needle loop and the adjacent needle loop. The length is measured in millimeter (mm).
Itinfluences fabric dimension and other properties including weight.
Fabric Width
Where, d = Cylinder diameter, G = Gauge of machine

GSM
GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric.
Fabric area density can be calculated by the following formula,

Here, T = Tex, S = Stitch density,

l= Stitch length
GSM is one of the primary parameters for determining fabric quality and GSM depends on WPI, CPI,
yarn count (Ne) and stitch length. The GSM cutter is very popular and easy usable GSM testing
instrument used in most of the knitting [Link] construction of this cutter is very simple. It is
circular disk of 100 square cm area with sharp blade attached to its edge. So 100 square cm of fabric
can easily cut by it and weighted at the electric balance to get GSM Reading.
Technical formula used for GSM calculation,
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Yarn Diameter Calculation:
In indirect system of yarn count, higher the yarn count finer the yarn

Analysis:
The shape of a loop is not circular, but the yarn for that loop or stich length can be taken as equal to the
circumference of a circle (Figure 1). The point is that, loop shape is not circle but can be assumed as a
circle and that will help to formulate some equations.

So, it has been assumed that every loop is equivalent to a circle and then circumference of that loop will
be equal to Stitch Length.

Width of Fabric:
Fabric width is formed by courses that are laying crosswise (loops in horizontal direction).
So, Width=loop Dia* no of loops
Width=loop Dia* no of course
Width=loop Dia* no of needles

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According to this equation the width calculation should be easy and loop should stay like the image
cited below:
But every circle share part of circle of both sides. Fabric width from this equation will be less than actual
width because the loop circles placed consecutively shares both sides with preceding and successive
loops (Figure 3).

Now let’s make relation between values from this equation & actual values and see how much closer
they stay.
Table 1 shows that the actual width and the width from the equation always maintain approximately
same ratio among [Link] this ratio can be considered as a constant actual width of the fabric can
easily be derived.

So the equations can be written as considering R as a constant as it shows in the Table 1.

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The value of R for Single jersey is 1.25-1.30 and for 1*1Rib is about 1.00 and for others fabric type’s
value of R can be calculated.

Variation of R is related withtype of fabric construction, needles number, yarn types and composition,
machine tension, speed, and tightness factor.

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WPI:
WPI can be calculated from this equation of width.
No of needles=no of wales, and width is expressed in inch.
So, No of wales per inch=Total no of wales or no of needles/Width of the fabric in inches.
t is to be mentioned that actual WPI can be less than the WPI found from this equation if any needles
are inactive.

Course Per Inch (CPI):

A knitted fabric is a combination of courses in horizontal
direction with continuous yarn. A wale is formed having
courses as shown in figure 5. A loop contains a tail yarn of
previous loop and a head yarn of next loop [From figure 5], so
effective height of every course is (d1-2dy) mm.

So, Course height is (d1 – 2dy) mm or { (d1 – 2dy)*39.36/1000

} inch
Let, n=no of courses required for 1 inch of fabric or CPI

This equation can be used to have idea of CPI or to determine

required no of feeder/course.

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GSM:
The equation for GSM can be formulated by using equation of WPI & CPI formulated here.
The general formula for calculating GSM is

High Speed Single Jersey Four Tracks Circular Knitting Machine:

This machine adopts closed tracks and a wide needle butt design with the cams of knit, tuck, and misses.
The mechanism is designed with the central adjustment system to adjust the fabric in different levels of
density easily and conveniently, normally equipped with different gauges of cylinders which is easy to
alter and can meet the everlasting requirements of the demand of the knitting market. This machine can
produce high quality with different levels of thickness such as calico weave, silk cotton, row of colored
gauzy fibre, polyester-cotton interweave, which can also produce single or double pique mesh, pique
structured, etc. And can also knit versatile pique, soft cloth, single fleece, twill, chevron, and four-track
pique patterns.

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Single Jersey Four Tracks Three End Fleece Circular Knitting Machine:
This machine adopts four tracks design, it is composed of a group of fleece yarn, tie in yarn and back
yarn for knitting fish scale, till and French double fleece. After fleece brushing the surface of the face-
side of the cloth can be made into velvet. With its high number of feeders, this machine offers exemplary
productivity which can replace the obsolete model of machines. The length of the wool yarn can be
adjusted by the sinkers and the cams. The machine of model WS/3090 can be converted into a Three
End Fleece Circular Knitting machine and can so be converted into a single jersey four tracks circular
knitting machine after changing the suitable optional convertible parts. The finishing products include
high-class ladies' wear, sportswear, sweatshirt, nightclothes, babies' wear, and protective clothing, etc.

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Output of Circular Knitting Machine
Circular knitting machines always produces a tube-shaped fabric. They exist in different sizes or
diameters, depending on the field of application. The needles and sinkers in these machines are arranged
in a circle.
Introduction:
It has been expounded in the sections above that the output of a circular knitting machine depends on a
series of different influencing variables. A wealth of machine data and data on the fabric to be produced
is required for calculating production capacity. In article we will discuss about the
circular knitting machine production calculation.
In this respect the cylinder diameter d in inch, the gauge E, the system count S, the machine rpm n, and
the efficiency level q of the circular knitting machine must be known. The following data on the fabric
to be produced must also be available:
• The construction
• The course density or courses /cm, and
• The weight per unit area in gm /m2.
Circular Knitting Machine Production Calculation

Machine output:
The machine capacity or performance in running m/hr is calculated in accordance with the following
equation:
Machine capacity, L
Speed of machine in rpm X No. of system or feeders on the machine
X efficiency X 60minutes
=
……………………………………………………………………………………………………………
………….m/hr
…………………….No. of feeders or systems per course X courses per cm. X 100

Fabric production: knitting

The term knitwear includes two main textile techniques, weft and warp knitting (Spencer, 2001; Weber
and Weber, 2008) (Table 7.1). After weaving, it is the most common method of manufacturing textile
fabrics. Because of the interloped structure of the knitted fabric, the properties are completely different
to woven fabrics. The difference in weft and warp knitting originates in the way the needles move during
the production and in the way the yarn is supplied. Weft knitting is a one fibre technique, which means
that only one fibre is needed to build the stitches. The needles are moved separately, whereas the warp
knitting needles are moved simultaneously.

Relationship between yarn count and machine gauge

In circular knitting machines, yarn count primarily depends on the needle pitch and thus the machine
gauge (Lyer et al., 1995). As the diameter of a yarn is proportional to its yarn count (direct system), a
relationship exists between the range of optimum counts of yarn that may be knitted on a particular
machine, and the gauge of the machine. Machine gauge thus plays an influential role in the choice of
yarn count and can have an effect on fabric properties such as weight and appearance. Therefore, it is
important to obtain an optimal balance of yarn count and machine gauge in order to ensure the best
knitting performance for a specific machine gauge and structure, with high machine efficiency and
minimum fabric fault rate.
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 Introduction to fully Fashion knitwear
Fully fashioned is the more traditional type of knitting, where each piece of clothing is made entirely
from scratch. This means that the fabric is knitted into shape by a knitting machine and then sewn
together.
Fully fashioned knitwear is often seen as being of a higher quality than cut and sew knitwear, as it is
made from a single piece of fabric. The seamless garment has a neater finish since it has no unsightly
seams on the entire garment. However, fully fashioned knitwear is also more labor-intensive and
therefore tends to be more expensive.

Knit garments: Knit garments are basically three types:

1. Cut and sew knit garments.

2. Fully Fashioned shape knitwear.
3. Complete knitted garments.
#Cut and Sew knit garments:
The cut and sew technique is by far the simplest method of garment construction whereby individual
panel shapes are cut to size from panels (V bed or flat bed) or from a long length of fabric or cloth
(circular knitting machines).
Benefits of Cut & Sew Knitting:
The benefits of the cut and sew route includes the followings:
1) Ease speed of knitting of fabric
2) Total consistency of cut panel sizes and relative ease of garment make-up.
3) The downside is that the seams have to be over-locked prior to sewing or linking to prevent the
exposed stitches from laddering.
4) This produces a seam that is relatively large, bulky and unsightly.
Disadvantages of Cut & Sew Knitting:
1) The cut and sew route is not widely used for wool knitwear production
2) The material wastage (up to 25%) and perceived “lower quality” image makes it less appealing.

#Fully Fashioned Shaped Knitwear:

1) Shaped knitwear is engineered to size and shaped at the point of knitting.
2) It is very distinctive and easily identifiable by the “fashioning marks” which normally run parallel
to the garment seams.
3) The garment panels are assembled using “cup seaming” and “linking” where usually the garment
sides, sleeves and underarms are cup seamed and the shoulders and collars are linked.
4) The difference between linking and seaming is that with linking a stitch per stitch joint results
whereas cup seaming stitches the edges of the fabrics together.
Fully Fashioned Knitting Machine:
Fully-fashioned knitting machines are flat knitting machines that produce custom pre-shaped pieces
of a knitted garment. Instead of knitting a whole rectangular sheet of fabric, instructions from a knit
pattern on a punch card or computer file guide a fully-fashioned knitting machine's needles to add or
drop stitches to create custom two dimensional shapes appropriate to the desired finished garment
structure. The pieces emerge from the machine ready to be sewn together.

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#Complete Knitted Garments:
Complete garment knitting is a next-generation form of fully-fashioned knitting that adds the
capability of making a 3-dimensional full garment. Unlike other fully-fashioned knitting, where the
shaped pieces must still be sewn together, finished complete knitted garments do not have seams. The
knitting machines' computerized instructions direct movement of hundreds of needles to construct and
connect several tubular knitted forms to create a complete garment in a single production step.

Advantages of Complete Garment Knitting:

The complete garment system's advantages lie in:
1) A further reduction in materials beyond even fully-fashioned production by eliminating seam
allowances.
2) Faster time to market by eliminating the need for sewing any components. These factors increase
cost-effectiveness
3) One might also argue that cutting down on wasted by-product selvage makes complete garment better
for the environment.
Two companies manufacture complete garment knitting machines: Shima Seiki and Stoll.

Name of Fully fashioned knit garments:

1) Sweater
2) Cardigan
3) Tights
4) Stockings
5) Lingerie, etc

This is a guest contribution from Sharfuddin Ripon. This post covers the basics of flat knitting machine
and fully fashion garment. Usually, knitted garments are categorized into four types from their
production point of views -

1. Fully cut
2. Stitch shape cut or Blanking
3. Integral
4. Full fashion
First three fall into circular knit slots. Fully Cut like Cut and sewn in woven, tubes here cut open
lengthwise to cut into parts as patterned to sew together.
In stitch shape, tubes are cut width-wise depending upon the body length of each garment (with
provision for 1 / 11/2” sewing allowances) called blank. Here cutting and sewing jobs are less than what
required in fully cut since the tubes remained seamless.
Amongst the knits fully fashion garments are knitted in V- bed flat knitting machine, driven either by
hand or machine (auto). Panels or parts of a garment (front & back body panels, sleeves, necks or collars)
are knitted individually as per specification and styling properties of the garment. Since panels are
coming out of the machine with required shapes, curves and measurements no cutting is required.
Instead of sewing parts are linked together in linking machines with self-yarn (the yarn used for knitting
body parts) to complete a garment.
Regular yarns like cotton, acrylic, polyester, or wool may be required for linking in case the garment is
made of fancy yarns lacking required thickness and tensile strength. Sweaters are the only garment in
the full fashion category knitted in a flat knitting machine.
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 Features of a manual Sweater Machine
• The flat knitting machine is a two-bed machine. The most important mechanical features of a
flat knitting machine are:
• the supporting frame
• the yarn feeding system
• two needle-beds made up of flat grooved plates
• a carriage provided with cam-locks for needle control
• a transmission system
• a fabric take-down motion
• a central programming unit
• a needle-bed racking system

The two flat beds can be:

1. Inclined by 90°-100° with respect to one another, with a staggered arrangement of the
grooves accommodating latch needles or compound needles.
The two flat beds are the “front needle-bed” (indicating the needle-bed closer to the
operator) and the “rear needle-bed” (indicating the farther).
2. Both are arranged on a horizontal plane (at 180°) with the grooves, which are positioned
opposite to each other. Double hook needles slide inside the grooves; these needles are
moved by special sliders, which can transfer the stitches to the front bed – or to the rear
bed for links-links or purl knitting processes – according to the type of patterns.
The Manual Flat Knitting Machine
The manual flat knitting machine is made up of a frame carrying the base; this structure
supports all the needle beds and motions necessary for the knitting process
The yarn unwound from the spool is picked up by the feeding system: a tensioner, which adjusts
the feeding tension and a thread guide, driven by the machine carriage, which provides the
needle with yarn at the proper time.
The tensioner is made up by a spring-load flexible arm, that lowers when the yarn tension
increases, to feed a bigger quantity of yarn, and lifts up when the tension decreases.
The Needle-bed of a manual flat knitting machine
The needles (4) accommodated inside the grooves (1) of the needle-bed can be either in a
knitting or in a non-knitting position and are moved by special springs (2).
Placed between the grooves in the upper part of the needle-bed, the knock-over jacks (3) act as
supports for the yarn fed during the stitch formation.
A spring securing bar (5) and a needle securing bar (6) are also attached to the needle-bed to
keep needles and springs in a correct sliding position.
The Carriage of a Flat Knitting Machine
The carriage is made up of two metal plates linked by a stiff bridge (P); the plates
work individually and simultaneously on the front and the rear needle-beds.

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 The carriage carries out a double function and can be used:
1. to select the needles and make them raise or lower to form the stitch;
2. to select and drive the thread guides which feed the needles.
The plates include cam locks (F) bearing the drive and control systems of the needles, i.e. the
cams.
When the carriage moves right- or leftwards, the thread guides (B),(C),(D),(E) are locked
individually by the corresponding pistons (A) on the upper part of the bridge, that are manually
driven.
Brushes are also mounted on the carriage to ensure a smooth needle latch opening and grant a
correct feeding of the yarn.
The Cam-locks of a Manual Flat Knitting Machine
The cam-locks are a cam system which gives the necessary working information to
the individual needles; they include a fixed part, working as support, and movable cams, which
can be divided into raising cams and lowering or knock-over cams (2).
The raising cam includes:
• A tucking cam
• A looping cam
• The fixed or movable cams form a symmetrical channel where the needle butt slides; the needle
moves downward and upward in the groove to form the stitch.
• The different parts of the cams are chamfered; their profiles are curvilinear to make the needle
move smoothly.
• The angle of inclination of the cams ranges between 40° and 50°; these values grant an optimum
running of the needle and avoid high pressures between metal parts during the motion and
excessive tensions on the yarn during the downward stroke of the needle.
• The carriage allows three different work ways according to the needle stroke and to the positions
of the raising cam:
• KNIT STITCH: when the needle carries out a complete stroke, reaching the
maximum height on the looping plane
• TUCK STITCH: when the needle reaches the tucking plane and receives a
new yarn while still holding its former loop, thus forming
two loops in the one needle hook
• MISS (or FLOAT) STITCH: when the needle is not knitting and remains out of the knockback
over a needle.
High-butt Needles and Low-butt Needles
The latch needle can have two different butt heights which make it a high-butt needle or a lowcut needle.
The assembly of high-butt needles and low-butt needles on the knitting machine allows different
selection and different manufacturing work ways, according to the positions of the tucking and
looping cams.

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Features of Sweater Knitting Machine:
The main features of a modern computerized sweater knitting machine or V-bed flat knitting machine
are listed below:
• Numerically these are the most important industrial knitting machines.
• Individual needle selection. According to the knitting process, needles can be put in and out of
action during the knitting operation.
• The needles, mounted in beds opposed in an inverted ‘V’ formation, are operated by cams in a
reciprocating carriage.
• Three-way technique. Knit, tuck and miss can be easily realized in the same knitting course.
• The hand flat machine is still widely used but most modern machines are powered.
• Many are employed to produce collars and rib trimmings for garments made on other machines,
but because of the almost unlimited patterning scope available with jacquard flat machines
considerable numbers are used for the production of patterned fabrics and garment lengths.
Automatic narrowing has been common on these machines for some time and models are now
being offered with full fashioning capability.
• Their main disadvantage is low productivity compared with other type.
• Loop length change facility. Each loop size can be chosen according to knitting requirements.

• Most have a single knitting head or section but versions with 2 to 6 sections arranged side by
side are produced.

• Loop transfer facility. Stitch loops can be easily transferred between two needle beds. A machine
with four needle beds has been developed to realize double knitted structure with increased
facility.

• Arrangement of 2 sections back to back allows knitting to take place in one direction using 15
or more carriages that traverse over the front section and return over the back one; the resulting
machine is thus a hybrid circular flat machine.

• Holding down sinkers and special take-down systems. Different take-down requirements can be
met. These capabilities make computerized sweater knitting a very suitable knitting technology
for 3D structure production.

Uses of Sweater Knitting Machine: Sweater knitting machine is widely used in our country. This
machine is traditionally used for the production of pullovers and other outerwear garments. These
machines can easily be operated and can yield versatile products. Following products are manufactured
with sweater knitting machine,
1. Half cardigan or royal rib
2. Full cardigan or polka rib
3. Fisherman’s rib
4. Sweater stitch

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Features of a Jacquard Sweater Machine
The jacquard made by two colors dye has more beautiful patterns and vivid color. The fabric has
wonderful texture and resistance, with excellent moisture absorption and permeability. The patterns are
stereovision and more suitable for home use for its comfortability and durability and not easy to fade.
Features of Jacquard loom

This handloom was used for weaving silk at Stonehouse in Lanarkshire in the 19th century. It has a
Jacquard attachment which allows complex patterns to be woven. The punch cards used in the Jacquard
mechanism laid the foundation for modern computer programming.

Jacquard Fabrics have some unique features so that they are popular in the market.
1. The patterns on jacquard fabrics are neither printed nor embroidered, they were woven by yarn.
Structural changes of yarns make different patterns and traceries during weaving and the jacquard
fabrics have a high thread density. The fabrics are thin and soft, haves strict requirements for cotton,
and need finer yarns, usually about 40s.
2. The jacquard fabric is a kind of complicated fabric which apply double or more layers of tissues to
weave. The patterns are beautiful and the colors are structured stereoscopic.
3. Jacquard fabrics woven by electronic faucet jet, unlike the monochrome printing for satin jacquard.
Large jacquard fabrics have more patterns than small ones, which can be woven with flowers, birds,
fish, insects, animals, and other beautiful patterns.
4. The jacquard made by two colors dye has more beautiful patterns and vivid color. The fabric has
wonderful texture and resistance, with excellent moisture absorption and permeability. The patterns are
stereovision and more suitable for home use for its comfortability and durability and not easy to fade.
5. Moisture absorption. The jacquard fabric has excellent moisture absorption. In general, the cotton can
absorb the moisture from the atmosphere, and the moisture content is about 8 to 10%, so it is soft. If the
humidity of jacquard fabric is increasing, and the temperature is high, the water in fiber will be
evaporated, so that can keep water balance for fabrics, thus makes people feel comfortable.
6. Moisturizing ability. With low thermal conductivity, the jacquard fabric is almost a insulator for heat
and electricity, The fabric is porous and flexible, and can accumulate a lot of air, therefore the jacquard
fabrics has excellent moisturizing ability, and comfortable to wear.

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7. Heat resistance. The jacquard fabric has wonderful heat resistance, even in 110 ℃ the fabrics still can
keep the integrity. No matter in normal temperature or washing and dying, there is no impact on fabrics,
therefore improve the wear ability of jacquard fabrics.
[Link] resistance. Even in the alkali solution, the fibers are not destroyed, the performance makes the
jacquard fabrics simpler to wash, disinfect, and dye, which contribute to manufacture more newly-style
clothes.
9. Hygiene. The major ingredient of jacquard fabrics is the cellulose, which is a natural fiber. It has been
tested that is no negative effects when the jacquard fabrics contact with our skin for a long time.
In general, jacquard fabrics are soft and suitable for skin use. The colors of jacquard fabrics are bright.
The jacquard cloth with high quality has excellent permeability and the colors are not easy to fade. Due
to these features, the jacquard fabrics have taken a large part of market.

Single Computerized Terry Jacquard Circular Knitting Machine

This machine manufactures loop pile or terry fabrics, which can be used for producing bath towels, to
welling blankets, to welling pillows and other soft-cloth materials.
Capable of knitting different bath accessories and blankets
Data can easily be saved and stored
Technological data: 30’’/34’’, 18G-22G, 48F/54F

Double Jersey Computerized Jacquard Circular Knitting Machine

The double jersey electronic jacquard circular knitting machine features a computerized actuator to
select needles on the cylinder.
Able to knit various designs of jacquard fabric
Features a computerized actuator to select needles on cylinder
Technological data: 30’’-38’’, 12G-28G, 54F-72F

Double Jersey Computerized Transfer Rib Jacquard Knitting Machine

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The functioning of the Computerized Jacquard Transfer Rib Knitting Machine combines Computerized
Jacquard technology with Transfer Rib weaving.
Jacquard technology combined with the transfer woven
Capable of weaving any full-width jacquard cloth of unlimited length and width
Technological data: 34’’/38’’, 18G, 54F/60F

Characteristics of Jacquard Mechanism:

• For designs that require the reproduction of freely drawn shapes, it is usually necessary for each
end in the repeat to be separately controlled.
• Jacquard machines are used for a wide variety of purposes from ties to carpets.
• Their patterning possibilities virtually unlimited.
• The most elaborate designs (reproduction of freely drawn shapes, i.e. floral designs) are woven
on an intricately constructed loom called the Jacquard loom, and the weave of these fabrics is
called the jacquard weave.
• Elaborate designs could not be made on the regular harness loom. Because intricate designs
require many variations in shedding.
• Virtually no limit to the number of picks / repeat (i.e. 5000 picks or more).
• The length of the repeat is limited only by the cost and inconvenience of a very long pattern
chain.
• Jacquard machines are made in a wide variety of sizes to control from 100 to 2000 or more ends
per repeat.
• In conventional jacquard machine field, the spectrum now ranges from 192 through 3200 to 6144
hooks.
• When a higher no. of independent lift is required two or three jacquard machines is placed side
to side.

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Different Part of Sweater Machine and their Functions
Sweater knitting machine also referred to as flat bed or v-bed knitting machine. That have two rib gated,
diagonally-approaching needle beds, set at between 90 and 104 degrees to each other and are positioned
so that the upper ends form an inverted “V”.

Sweater Knitting Machine:

Sweater knitting machine also referred to as flat bed or v-bed knitting machine. That have two rib gated,
diagonally-approaching needle beds, set at between 90 and 104 degrees to each other and are positioned
so that the upper ends form an
inverted “V”. Sweater knitting
machine has two needle beds
arranged in an inverted v-shape.
This machine can be hand-
operated or controlled by
computer. The flat bed machine is
widely used in the sweater
industry. The interactions
between yarn and knitting
elements that create the fabric
occur at the apex of the V and the
fabric moves away downward
between the two beds, drawn down by the take-down system. During knitting in v-bed knitting machine,
the edges of the knock-over bits restrain the sinker loops as they pass between the needles and thus assist
in the knocking over of the old loops and in the formation of the new loops.
Fig: Sweater knitting machine
Modern V-bed knitting machine is fully automated, electronically controlled, precision knitting system.
The operation and supervision of the machines of the simpler type are also less arduous than for
other weft knitting machines.
1. Features of Sweater Knitting Machine:
The main features of a modern computerized sweater knitting machine or V-bed flat knitting
machine are listed below:
2. Numerically these are the most important industrial knitting machines.
3. Individual needle selection. According to the knitting process, needles can be put in and out of
action during the knitting operation.
4. The needles, mounted in beds opposed in an inverted ‘V’ formation, are operated by cams in a
reciprocating carriage.
5. Three-way technique. Knit, tuck and miss can be easily realized in the same knitting course.
6. The hand flat machine is still widely used but most modern machines are powered.
7. Many are employed to produce collars and rib trimmings for garments made on other machines,
but because of the almost unlimited patterning scope available with jacquard flat machines
considerable numbers are used for the production of patterned fabrics and garment lengths.
Automatic narrowing has been common on these machines for some time and models are now
being offered with full fashioning capability.
8. Their main disadvantage is low productivity compared with other type.
9. Loop length change facility. Each loop size can be chosen according to knitting requirements.
36 | P a g e
 10. Most have a single knitting head or section but versions with 2 to 6 sections arranged side by
side are produced.
11. Loop transfer facility. Stitch loops can be easily transferred between two needle beds. A machine
with four needle beds has been developed to realize double knitted structure with increased
facility.
12. Arrangement of 2 sections back to back allows knitting to take place in one direction using 15
or more carriages that traverse over the front section and return over the back one; the resulting
machine is thus a hybrid circular flat machine.
13. Holding down sinkers and special take-down systems. Different take-down requirements can be
met.
14. These capabilities make computerized sweater knitting a very suitable knitting technology for
3D structure production.

Uses of Sweater Knitting Machine:

Sweater knitting machine is widely used in our country. This machine is traditionally used for the
production of pullovers and other outerwear garments. These machines can easily be operated and can
yield versatile products. Following products are manufactured with sweater knitting machine,
1. Half cardigan or royal rib
2. Full cardigan or polka rib
3. Fisherman’s rib
4. Sweater stitch
5. Racked rib
6. The cable stitch

Every Jacquard machine may be divided into the following parts:

1. The Frame and the Perforated Board through which the neck-cords are passed.
2. The Griffey and necessary attachments for lifting the same.
3. The Hooks.
4. The Needles.
5. The Springs and Spring Frame.
6. The Needle-board.
7. The Cylinder, Hammer, and Batten.
8. The Catches.
9. The Cards.
10. The Jacquard Harness.

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Different Stitches used in sweater with Pictures

38 | P a g e
Different Yarns used in sweater with Pictures

There are some downsides to wool, such as it can be incredibly itching and irritating. Some people are
allergic to wool and should not wear wool products. Garments that have been made from the wool may
begin to pill after use. For best care, it should be washed by hand in water that is tepid.

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Merino Wool: Merino wool is a special type of wool that is fine and amazingly soft. This yarn does
come from sheep, but a particular breed is called a Merino Sheep. This is a
special class of work yarn because it does not cause any type of allergic
reaction, even for those that are allergic to wool. Merino is considered a yarn
for extreme knitting because it creates big chunky items.
.

Cashmere: Cashmere is another type of sheep’s wool. It is the softest wool

and yarn you can find. It comes specifically from Cashmere goats and other
goats. Cashmere is an expensive type of wool and is considered a luxury. It
is not as strong as the fiber from sheep. Cashmere goats shed their undercoat
every year.
This coat is closer to the skin. It has to be separated from the outer hair. Even
though it is called an undercoat, it does not come from under the goats. It
comes from their back and mid-side. It takes the fibers from four goats to
make one sweater. Cashmere is finer than human hair. The more you wear
Cashmere, the softer the fabric becomes.
.
Alpaca: Alpaca yarn is an incredibly warm fiber that is ideal for sweaters.
It is a natural work that comes from
the Alpaca from South American. The
two types of Alpaca yarn are Suri and Huaca. This yarn is soft
and almost like silk. It does not hold the shape as well as
traditional wool, does. It is more expensive than a ball of
traditional wool.

Mohair: Mohair yarn is soft and beautiful. It is made

from the Angora goat hair. It tends to be shiny, resistant, and
durable. This is not the same as Angora wool, which comes from a
rabbit. This yarn is a fantastic insulator and is great at pulling moisture
away from the body.

Organic Yarn: Organic yarn is a wool that is created without any

chemicals. It comes from sheep that do not have any synthetic or
chemical additives. The sheep do not have antibiotics, dips, or
drenches. The only thing used on this wool yarn is detergent and hot
water.

Nylon: Nylon is a synthetic fiber that was created to be a viable

alternative to silk. It has similar qualities to rayon in that it is shiny, smooth, easy to wash, and remains
cool to your touch. Nylon is durable and holds up well to most wear and tear. It is easy to care for in
that you can wash it in a washing machine. These fibers are elastic and strong. They can resist abrasion.
These fibers can be easily dyed in any color.

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Angora: This yarn is considered a luxury yarn because it
is one of the finest fibers from an animal that you can find.
It also tends to be an expensive yarn. It comes directly
from the fur of an Angora rabbit. It is light and soft. It is
warm, much warmer than wool from sheep. It is similar to
mohair in that it should not be used for stitches that are
intricate.

Rayon: Rayon is one of the oldest fibers that are man-made,

but it does mimic some of the natural fiber properties. It is
smooth, shiny, and soaked in color. This material is
comfortable and cool. It pulls heat away from your body,
making it a great material for the hottest months.

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Style Analysis of Sweaters
Cardigan Sweaters
It’s said that the cardigan sweater owes its name to James Brudenell, the 7th Earl of Cardigan, a 19th
century British general known to fuss over the appearance of his hair. To prevent his locks from being
ruffled by a pullover sweater, the Earl added buttons to his sweater so that it never had to go over the
head in the first place.
Another distinct design feature among cardigans is the shawl collar, which can appear on button-front
and open cardigans alike. The shawl collar adds an extra layer of folded-down fabric around the neck
area, which provides extra warmth and strikes a rustic look.
Pullover Sweaters
Pullovers represent an enormous category. In fact, any sweater that does not include buttons or hang
open can be considered a pullover, but we’ll relegate tunics and turtlenecks to their own special category
based on the unique characteristics of those sweater types. To put it in the simplest terms possible, a
pullover sweater is a sweater that must be put on by pulling it over your head. Among these non-
turtleneck, non-tunic sweaters, two chief points of difference exist: crewneck or V-neck.
Crewneck Sweater
Crewneck sweaters are derived from the sports sweaters worn by athletes in the early 20th century to
prevent skin irritation. Today, it's their more casual, sportier look is what makes them popular among
men and women alike. Crewneck sweaters are characterized by a round neckline and no collar, lending
it a more relaxed look without going completely casual. They are a great choice for situations where
you want to dress up a little bit but are worried about overdressing.
V-Neck Sweater
The shape of a V-neck makes it a bit more formal in contrast to its crewneck cousin and lends itself to
being layered over a collared shirt or fitted blouse. You can dress up your women's v-neck sweater by
pairing it with a sharp tie or sport coat for more professional occasions or leave the collar alone for a
polished but less formal look. Always make sure you tuck in the shirt you wear underneath it though!

Tunic Sweaters
The tunic is a tricky garment of clothing to define. Unlike the other categories that appear on this list,
tunics are not always sweaters. In fact, you may be just as likely to see a tunic worn as a shirt as you are
to see a tunic worn as a sweater. The key distinguishing point for a tunic versus other sweaters is its
shape. Rather than falling to a fitted hemline, tunics will be more loosely cut, hang slightly lower on the
body and flare out at the hem rather than taper. Many other types of sweaters can be defined as a tunic,
depending on the sweater’s cut and drape. Most tunics are pullovers; some tunics feature a V-neck or
sometimes a mock neck.
Turtleneck Sweaters
Of all these styles, the turtleneck is likely the easiest to define and identify. A sweater can be considered
a turtleneck sweater only if it meets the following criteria: the sweater features a high collar that folds
down over itself and completely covers the neck. The turtleneck also goes by several other names,
including the roll-neck or the polo neck. Turtlenecks may be confused with mock neck sweaters, but the
two are not the same.

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Mock Turtleneck Sweater
While a traditional turtleneck reaches from the collarbone up to the lower jaw, mock turtleneck
sweaters are much shorter and only go up to just below the Adam's Apple on men. The mock turtleneck
lends the illusion of its high-necked sister but is much less constricting. It's still a cold-weather staple,
but it also makes a seamless transition to warmer conditions. Mock turtlenecks provide an alternative
for those who love the look but just don't feel comfortable with the additional fabric gathered around
their neck
Quarter-Zip Sweaters
Quarter-zip sweaters are very similar to V-necks in terms of collar shape, but with a zipper that goes
about a quarter of the way down the sweater to make it easier to get on and off. This kind of sweater
also tends to be thicker and warmer than others and are often worn as outerwear in that warm season
between summer and fall. They're also incredibly versatile and can be dressed up for a night out or down
for a family picnic and leaf-jumping outing. Quarter-zip sweaters are also a great option for the office
because they look professional while also being super comfortable all day long.
Boyfriend Sweaters
The key aspect of a boyfriend sweater is that it looks like something you might have stolen from your
boyfriend's closet. Any style can fit in this category, really, as long as it's oversized enough to be extra
cozy. All that extra fabric makes for a super comfy outfit while also providing a casual yet chic touch
to your look. Boyfriend sweaters are a great option for going from warm sunshine to chilly nights or air-
conditioned homes because they can be easily layered over a t-shirt or tank top when you need it and
tied around your waist when you don't.
Sweater Vests
Sweater vests are the odd one out when it comes to sweater types because they don't have sleeves! They
seem to go against the sweater oath of keeping the wearer comfy and warm by leaving your poor arms
to fend for themselves but, in all honesty, sweater vests are a must have. Pair your favorite sweater vest
with a button-down shirt rolled up to the elbows for a professional look for warmer weather or a sleek
sport jacket and tie once it gets to get chilly out. You'll be hard-pressed to find a situation your sweater
vest can't handle!

Hoodie
A hoodie is a sweatshirt with a hood. Hoodies with zippers usually include two pockets on the lower
front, one on either side of the zipper, while "pullover" hoodies (without zippers) often include a single
large muff or pocket in the same location. Both styles (usually) include a drawstring to adjust the hood
opening. When worn up, the hood covers most of the head and neck and sometimes the face. Hoodies
may be worn for aesthetic purposes, or protection against the environment.
Sweater curse
The "sweater curse" or "curse of the love sweater" is a term used by knitters to describe the belief that
if a knitter gives a hand-knit sweater to a significant other, it will lead to the recipient breaking up with
the knitter. In an alternative formulation, the relationship will end before the sweater is even completed.
The belief is widely discussed in knitting publications, and some knitters claim to have experienced it.
In a 2005 poll, 15% of active knitters said that they had experienced the sweater curse firsthand, and
41% considered it a possibility that should be taken seriously.

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Quality Guideline of Sweaters
Sweater Manufacturing
Sweater is very popular product all over the world. Sweater manufacturing involve with linking,
trimming, mending and finishing process. Sweater is made by one kind of knit fabrics.
Sweater manufacturing process Flow chart and Quality control process given here sequence wise so
that you can understand easily.

Sweater Garments Quality Control

There are many process is Sweater garments but quality control system is same like woven and Knit
Garments. There are Quality inspector in every section to control quality.

A sweater product

Process Flow chart of Sweater Quality Control

Linking: Goods Receive From Knitting Distribution.

↓
Collect: Knitting Chart, Duplicate Sample, M-List, Risk Assessment Report, Approved Yarn Swatch,
Etc.
↓
Operator Starts Linking for "Size-Set".
↓
100% Size-Set Inspect by QA Department→ Not OK→ Re-Submit Size-set & Re-check.
↓
Pass
↓
Operator start Bulk Production, According to Size & Color.
↓
QI Start 100% Inspection.→ Defects→ Alter Send To Mending Operator & Re-check.
↓
Pass
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 ↓
OK Goods Keep to Linking distribution & Send to Trims/Mending.
↓
Trimming Section Receive Goods from Linking Distributor.
↓
Operator 100% Light Check-01 and Marks Trimming Point.
↓
Operator Start Bulk Production Trimming & hiding Stitch.
↓
QI 100% Trimming Defects Ckeck. .→ Defects→ Alter Send To Trimming Operator & Re-check.
↓
Pass
↓
Mending Section Receive Ok Goods From Trimming Section.
↓
Operator 100% Light Check-02 and Marks Trimming Point.
↓
Operator Start Bulk Production sarch mark point and Mending.
↓
QI 100% Trims Defects Check.→ Defects→ Alter Send To Mending Operator & Re-check.
↓
Pass
↓
Ok Goods Keep in Distribution and Send to Wash/Finishing Section.
↓
Collect: Duplicate Sample, Risk Assessment report, Accessories, Trims Card, Etc
↓
Washing Part: Goods Received from Mending Section, Start Reverse & Style Wise Washing /Drying
↓
QI 100% Light Box Check-3 and Marks "Alter" Spot" Point.
↓
Pass
↓
Sewing Section: Goods Received from Wash house & Start Marking, Attach Size Label,Care
Label,Main Label.
↓
PQC Final QI 100% Check "Alter"Spot"Defects.
↓
Pass
↓
OK Goods Received from PQC Section, According to size & Color wise For Start Ironing
↓
Table QI 100% Grading & Shape Check.
↓
Get-Up QI 100% Check "Spot"Alter".
↓
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 Pass
↓
Ok Goods Received from Get-up Section, According to Color, Size Wise & attaching all "TAG" then
FQC check & Approved for Packing.
↓
QI 100% check all Accessories.
↓
Pass
↓
Clean All Goods in Dust Sucking Machine.
↓
All Goods Passing On Metal Detection Machine.
↓
Calibrating (every 2 hours using 1.2 m.m ferrous card,according to 9 point system). Make report &
start production.
↓
Pass
↓
Make Report & Documented.
↓
Metal Free Zone Received OK Goods From Metal Detaction Matchine & Start Folding Color & Size
wise,(If Poly Or Sticker) Attach & Send To Packing.
↓
2.5 AQL Inline Inspection by FQC.
↓
Pass
↓
After Packing Solid or Assortment Then Complete Cartooning
↓
2.5 AQL Pre-Final Inspection by FQC.
↓
Pass
↓
Carton Send to Warehouse & Waiting For Final Inspection.
↓
2.5 AQL Final Inspection by Buying QI.
↓
Pass
↓
OK Goods Ready for Shipment.

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Quality Chart Prepare in Sweaters
Flow Chart of Sweater Manufacturing Process:
The sweater is one kind of knitted item. It can be a pullover or cardigans which are worn by adults and
children of both sexes. Sweater items also followed the garments manufacturing flow chart which makes
the manufacturing processes easier. The actual process flow chart of sweater garments manufacturing
have been discussed in this article.

Sweater Manufacturing Process

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Flow Chart of Sweater Manufacturing Process:
Yarn collection
↓
Winding of yarns
↓
Yarn distribution
↓
Knitting start of sweater panels
↓
Online inspection of knitting panels
↓
Linking of panels
↓
Online inspection of linking panels
↓
Trimming
↓
Light checking
↓
Mending
↓
Making buttonhole
↓
Washing
↓
Labeling
↓
Ironing
↓
Inspection by the factory quality team
↓
Folding and packing
↓
Final inspection
↓
Shipment

Costing Sheet in Garments

In the garments manufacturing sector, the costing sheet contains detailed information about the given
order. It’s a mandatory duty to prepare a costing sheet for garments merchandiser. Costing sheet
preparation is not a tough task that we have normally seemed. In the past, I shared the costing sheet for
knit and woven garments. Today I will present here the costing sheet for sweater garments.

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Conclusion
Circular knitting or knitting in the round is a form of knitting that creates a seamless tube. Work in the
round is begun by casting on stitches as for flat knitting but then joining the ends of that row of stitches
to form a circle. Knitting is worked in rounds (the equivalent of the rows in flat knitting), which forms
the tube by winding around in a helix.
Originally, circular knitting was done using a set of four or five double-pointed needles. Today, knitters
often use instead a circular needle, which resembles a pair of short knitting needles connected by a cable
between them. Circular knitting can also be performed by knitting machines: a double-bed machine can
be set up to knit on its front bed in one direction and then it’s back bed on the return, which creates the
tube.[2][3] Specialized knitting machines for sock-knitting use individual latch-hook needles to make
each stitch in a round frame.
Many types of sweaters are traditionally knit in the round. Planned openings (arm holes, necks, cardigan
fronts) are temporarily knitted with extra stitches, reinforced if necessary. Then the extra stitches are cut
to create the opening, and are stitched with a sewing machine to prevent unraveling. This technique is
called seeking.

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