I had one dream cook book which adorned my spartan bachelor library, and it served me

well, both during my bachelor years as also during my forced bachelor years in the Democratic
Republic of Congo. It taught me the basics of cooking as also made me the celebrity chef in a United
Nations Peacekeeping Mission in Congo. It was a book by Rohini Singh called The Foolproof
Cookbook for Brides, Bachelors & Those Who Hate Cooking. It was more about the organisation
behind cooking and the very basic essentials. Effectively, all I had to do was to dump in the MDH
masalas into any brew in the cookhouse in my team site in Congo, in any proportion, and it was sure
to be salivated over by the rest of the team members, mostly from Europe. The Yakhni Pulao, which
would have given nightmares to any self-respecting Indian chef, was an outstanding hit.

So it was with trepidation that I took on reading the second cookbook of my life and what an
immense pleasure it was. Masala Lab: The Science of Indian Cooking by Krish Ashok really addresses
the other end of the spectrum of cookbooks…the why of cooking. And it is fascinating that one can
wax endlessly on a cookbook written by an electronics engineers turned software engineer. The
book, as the blurbs say, is a ‘science nerd’s exploration of Indian cooking with the ultimate aim of
making the reader a better cook’ and my interpretation of the book is that, even if he or she does
not become a better cook, would be able to better appreciate the art and science of cooking. The
book is a scientific study, a humorous and sarcastic work and a culinary revelation, which, if studied
by aspiring chefs, would surely add to their understanding of their craft.

Krish breaks down the art and craft of cooking into its vary basic components and as he says
in his own words, cooking is essentially chemical engineering in a home laboratory known as a
kitchen, with an optional lab coat, known as an apron! He succinctly describes an Indian kitchen as a
chaotic command centre overseeing a war. His book spreads over eight chapters in which he
describes, in the first chapter (Zero Pressure Cooking), the physics and chemistry of cooking and the
science of the basics from rice, lentils, wheat, vegetables right through to the fats, of cooking. His
second chapter examines the details of spices and flavours as they apply to Indian cooking. Chapter
3 is an obsession with browns and browning which is scientifically referred to as the Maillard
Reaction by Krish. He informs the readers that the magic colour range for cooked food is the
spectrum from golden to brown. His pages are annotated with delightfully humorous cartoons
depicting complex chemical culinary reactions. The chapter on acids (Chapter 4) describes the
process of making yoghurts as being akin to a homeowner evicting the nasty bachelors who are likely
to make a mess out of his house and then leasing the house to a nice family of three that will keep it
in tip-top shape. A master of the simile, his gems pepper the entire book making light of the
complexities of the craft, making the book relatable and readable.

The 5th chapter covers what Krish refers to as The Fifth Taste. Here he introduces the
concept of umami and why mono-sodium glutamate (MSG) aka ajinomoto, the much reviled spice, is
actually not bad for you if consumed in moderation. MSG is, after all, the purest form of umami
which enhances all other flavours. In Chapter 6, Krish literally takes it to the next level (that’s the
name of the chapter) and demystifies microwaves, dehydrators, electronic pressure cookers and the
myths behind them. His chapters are peppered with ‘cheat sheets’ and the one on microwaves is
enlightening in its deposition on how papads should be ‘microwaved’ (rolled in glasses) to ensure
the entire papad is cooked. Chapter 7 recommends that we ‘Burn the Recipe’ in favour of algorithms
(eyes roll: what else can we expect from software engineers) on gravies, rice dishes, Indian breads,
chutney and raitas and salads! The chapter is broadly conceptual and surprisingly relatable leaving
aside the jargon. The Grand Finale Chapter is the one on biriyanis, the subcontinent’s greatest
culinary inventions. Krish evokes poetry, prose and verbose inanities in describing the perfect
biriyani. This is the chapter in which he attempts to marshal every single food science trick…learnt
over the last 200 pages or so to make good biriyani at home. He elaborates that one the
foundational algorithm for the dish is perfected, regional variations and modernist experimentation
will follow.

As I went over this book, the first thought that came to my mind was that I must gift this
book to another Krish, Krish Tanwar, a friend’s son who has just commenced his training in culinary
sciences. And to many such people who are in the business of cooking and who may know the how
of cooking but not the why. On that note, coming from the background of the Foolproof Cookbook, I
found Masala Lab a very refreshing take on the other end of the spectrum of cooking. So if there are
any two books on cooking, both very different and very connected at the same time, it is these two
books that will adorn my library for sure.