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 W E L C O M E T O I TA L I A !

Benvenuti... Welcome to the latest issue of

Italia! magazine. As I write this,
we are enjoying some ‘proper’
summer weather here in the UK,
which perfectly matches the mood
of the magazine this month as we
bring you a sparkling collection of
features to inspire your travels to
Italy, whether you are able to be there in person or not!
There’s no denying Venice can be busy in the
summer months, and if you are looking for a respite,
you’ll find it on a short vaporetto ride away on the
Venice Lido, where we explore its gracious villas and
glorious beaches. Further south, our Top Ten guide
to Le Marche takes you deeper into a region of great
beauty and heritage. Contemporary architecture also
comes into our spotlight, with a look at modern Italian
design and some quite extraordinary buildings, while
our dual-language Gazzetta celebrates SSC Napoli’s
recent league success – and much more besides.
In the kitchen, we have plenty of summertime
inspiration from party drinks and jarred picnic foods
to a brand-new recipe series celebrating one ingredient,
four ways every issue – in this issue, it’s rice. I hope you
are enjoying the long days and balmy evenings as much
as we are, and wish you a happy summer.

ON THE
COVER
Gondolas by the
Amanda Robinson Editor Rialto Bridge,
Venice

PS. Our NEW 116-page Tuscany and Florence Guide

packed with travel inspiration and insider info is now
on sale at www.italytravelandlife.com/specials, priced at
Inset cover image © Getty Images

£10.99. Plan your next trip to Tuscany with our experts!

Cover image © Getty Images
This image © Getty Images

NEW SUMMER SALE OFFER!

The charm of Whether you like to read a print copy of Italia! or prefer the on-the-go
historic Urbino in convenience of a digital edition, we have a great deal for you this issue!
Le Marche, page 50 Turn to page 30 for details and for the US, please turn to page 58.

THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS

Join us on ROSALIND ORMISTON JENNY OLDAKER JOE GARTMAN
FACEBOOK, Ros Ormiston is an art From the Colosseum Joe and photographer
search for Italia! and architectural to the splendour of wife Pat head to
magazine historian and writer, Florence’s Duomo, Paestum, south of
and we couldn’t have Jenny was inspired by Salerno, this month:
Follow us asked for anyone Italy’s groundbreaking the trio of temples that
on TWITTER better to take a look historic architecture to stand there are what
at @ItaliaMag around the Edmondo see what contemporary remains of the ancient
Bacci exhibition at the Guggenheim Gallery Italian designers are creating. From gravity- city of Poseidonia. Find out what Joe
Find us on in Venice. It runs until 18 September, which defying builds in the Dolomites to the makes of the Tomb of the Diver at Paestum
INSTAGRAM means you can catch it if you are in the city MAXXI museum in Rome, this is a voyage museum and what we can all learn from the
at @italia_magazine over the summer. Turn to page 44. of discovery which starts on page 32. frescoes he saw there. Turn to page 41.

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 3

 64
44

78
IN THIS ISSUE
August/September 2023
90 TRAVEL
22 LIDO DI VENEZIA
FOOD & DRINK
60 CUCINA DI AMALFI
41
Discover the sights and history of the Lido Ursula Ferrigno brings you these summery
di Venezia on a cycling tour with Venetian dishes for a taste of the Amalfi Coast.
Sara Scarpa.
64 FOUR TAKES ON… RICE
32 ADVENTURES IN ARCHITECTURE A taste of Italy for five hundred years –
Jenny Oldaker picks out a few of the best Mario Matassa provides some inspiration.
places to stay in Italy to enjoy boundary-
68 BUY ITALIA!
pushing contemporary architecture.
We try some of the best jarred vegetables
50 TOP 10 LE MARCHE from Italy available in the UK.
Tuscany? Nearby Le Marche has everything
70 FRIDAY NIGHT DINNER
you could possibly want, and more, writes
Try these quick and easy Italian-inspired
Jane Keightley.

73
dishes from Eleanor Steafel.

CULTURE 73 DRINK ITALIA!

38 SPEAK ITALIA! Our favourite alcoholic and non-alcoholic
Tom Alberto Bull reflects on SSC Napoli’s drinks to celebrate with this summer.
first Scudetto since the days of Maradona.
LIVING
41 FAST CULTURE
78 LIVING ON THE ISLANDS
Joe Gartman tells us all about Paestum’s
From sizeable land masses to tiny gems,
Tomb of the Diver.
you’ll find every kind of Mediterranean idyll
44 EDMONDO BACCI: ENERGY AND LIGHT in Italy, and island homes make an excellent
A new exhibition at the Guggenheim is the investment, says Fleur Kinson.

32 perfect reason to see the American heiress’s

beautiful palazzo, says Rosalind Ormiston.
88 PROPERTY SHOWCASE
The latest house-buying opportunities.

4 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 IN THIS ISSUE

VENICE p22

LE MARCHE p50

NAPLES p38
AMALFI p60
p78 SARDINIA

p78 SICILY

MORE ITALIA! ON THE COVER

8 NEWS & VIEWS 30 SUBSCRIBE TO ITALIA! MAGAZINE
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16 IN PRINT 56 PAST ITALIA! p77
The latest books for your Formed in Genoa in 1967,
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17 TOP 5 EVENTS Ricchi e Poveri have since sold p64
Find out what’s going on in Italy more than 20 million records.
this August and September. 90 ITALIA! WOMEN p32
20 VIEWPOINT Born to Genoese nobility when p50 p38
Before 1635, the Prato della the maritime republic was still p73
Valle in Padua actually was a ‘prato a player, Simonetta Vespucci
della valle’, a meadow of the valley, died frighteningly young.
but then a group of wealthy Venetians 91 NEXT MONTH
What’s coming up in the next issue.
p68
came together to develop the land.

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GO DIGITAL
AND ACCESS
www.italytravelandlife.com
EDITOR Amanda Robinson
[email protected]

ITALIA! MAGAZINE ART EDITOR Sam Grover

SUB EDITOR Jon Palmer
CONTRIBUTORS

ANYWHERE, Tom Alberto Bull, Ursula Ferrigno, Joe Gartman, Jane Keightley,
Fleur Kinson, Mario Matassa, Jenny Oldaker, Rosalind Ormiston,
Sara Scarpa, Eleanor Steafel

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 This MONTH
Image © Lorenzo Di Nozzi

News, events, the latest book releases, your

travel photos – we bring you the best of
Italy in our latest issue round-up

9 pages News & Views

of news,
What’s been happening in Italy

views and p8
your
photos! Readers’ Photos
Our pick of your Italian snaps

p14
In Print
The latest good reads

p16
What’s on in
August and September
The best events and festivals

p17
Top Picks
Italian shopping best buys

p19
A concert for the Stresa
Festival on La Catapulta
stage, Isola Bella

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 7

 A U G U S T / S E P T E M B E R I TA L I A !

THIS MONTH
News &Views

m, Athens
Chr istian Museu and
ine
Image © Byzant
A brush with the Byzantines

Image © Palazza Madama Turin

For a unique insight into an influential
empire, the latest exhibition at Palazzo
Madama in Turin is a must-visit. ‘Byzantines.
Places, Symbols and Communities of an Over
Thousand-Year-Old Empire’ is on show until 28
August, showcasing more than 350 objects,
from sculptures, mosaics and frescoes to
works in ceramic, enamel and silver, all
telling the story of this complex civilisation.
The exhibition, which was previously on view
in Naples, offers a compelling exploration of
the structures, organisational systems, trade
activity and rituals of the Byzantine Empire.
Furthermore, it is a fascinating glimpse into
the evolution of the ancient world’s artistic
Image © Palazza Madama Turin

creativity towards the Middle Ages, and its

diverse religious, geographic and cultural
influences. Tickets from €10.
For more information visit
www.palazzomadamatorino.it

5 of the best 2
Chianti Classico Hills, Tuscany. There
are many wine trails in this area – pick

Italian walks one to suit you and taste local wines

as you go. A classic route goes from Monte
San Michele through Volpaia and into Radda.

1
News & Views images © Getty unless otherwise stated

Via Ferrata (SOSAT), Brenta Dolomites, Delicious wine and Tuscan beauty abound.
Trentino Alto Adige. Walks don’t get much
more stunning than this. The Dolomites are
liberally scattered with vie ferrate, or ‘iron paths’
– high mountain routes with fixed climbing aids to
help walkers negotiate the terrain. The SOSAT route
is an excellent via ferrata, offering magnificent
panoramas but not too challenging. The route is
about 4.5km long and it begins at Rifugio Tuckett,
accessible via the Grostè cable car.

8 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 Berlusconi dies at Neighbourhood Italia!
the age of 86 In our new section we take a look at places
Silvio Berlusconi – billionaire around the world that offer an authentic
media tycoon and prime taste of Italy: from delis and wine bars to
minister of Italy for a total of restaurants, shops and galleries, we’re
nine years in four different scouring the globe to find the best slice of
governments between 1994 la dolce vita outside of Italy!
and 2011 – passed away in his
home city of Milan on 12 June FESTA ITALIANA
and was given a state funeral Cathedral Gardens,
in the city two days later. Manchester www.
Though he was the longest- festaitalianauk.com
serving post-war leader of Italy With attractions that
since the war, he was always a include live music,
controversial figure who drew street food, cookery
criticism for seeking too much demos from celebrity
power and then not using that chefs, kids’ activities
power for the common good. and more, lovers of all
Normally when a noted things Italian are in for
former G7 statesman dies, it a treat at the vibrant
is customary for other world Festa Italiana, which
leaders to say what a great takes place annually

Image © Si Ronconi
man he was. But, as Ian Hislop in Manchester and is now in its sixth year. A
commented on BBC’s Have I Got passion project dreamt up by Maurizio Cecco
News For You, in Berlusconi’s (the owner of Salvi’s in the city), the Festa is
Silvio Berlusconi case the only one to do this inspired by both the Italian festival tradition
(1936-2023) was Vladimir Putin. and Manchester’s own Italian heritage, and
is “all about the community coming together
to socialise, enjoy beautiful food, delectable
Subscribe to Italia! magazine today drinks and live music.” This fabulous and
with our special Summer Sale offer! free event takes place at the city’s Cathedral
This issue’s exciting offer is an opportunity to Gardens from 25-27 August, and aims to inject
save money on your favourite magazine! Our a slice of la dolce vita into the heart of the
Summer Sale brings you the best deal of the city, celebrating food, drink, culture and all
year – you will receive the first three issues of things Italian. We can’t think of a finer way to
your Italia! subscription (print or digital), spend the bank holiday weekend!
delivered to your door or device for just £5! If you’d like to suggest a favourite place in your
You’ll find all the details on p30. For our United neighbourhood, email [email protected] and
States customers, please turn to p58. we may feature your choice in a future issue!

3 5
Sentiero Azzurro, Cinque Terre, Sentiero della Libertà, Parco
Liguria. One of the country’s most Nazionale della Majella, Abruzzo.
beautiful coastal paths, this is a busy This historic trail was forged by Allied
route. You’ll need a Cinque Terre card as paths prisoners of war escaping from the POW
in the area are regulated, and for iconic views camp near Sulmona during WWII. The route
and seascapes, this can’t be beaten. is now an impressive long-distance hiking
www.incinqueterre.com/en/trails-advice trail that crosses the national park.

4
Vesuvius, Naples, Campania.
Get a sense of the nature’s raw power
with a hike up Italy’s most famous
volcano, to gaze into the depths of its
expansive crater. It’s crowded with tourists
year-round, but worth it for the fantastic
panoramas and exciting terrain.

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 9

 A U G U S T / S E P T E M B E R I TA L I A !

THIS MONTH Going up,

News &Views going down...
GOING UP
• Rome is the
Rome for appy families world’s best food
If you have plans to head to Italy’s capital with the kids or grandchildren this summer, new destination for
app Trova could be the perfect companion for your trip. The app was created to help families 2023, according
explore Rome through a series of self-guided, interactive detective trails, encouraging children to Tripadvisor’s annual rankings,

Image by Mario Matassa

to engage with historic sites using fun facts, puzzles and humour. It was designed by British which are based on millions of
couple Nick and Aleen, who live in the city with two small children and fully understand the travel reviews. Describing Rome
challenges faced by parents trying to tour Rome’s landmarks with little ones. “Rome is bursting as “A real-life collage of piazzas,
with ancient sites, art and museums but has little geared towards children,” explain Nick and open-air markets, and astonishing
Aleen. “We’ve used gelato many a time to historic sites,” the travel review
bribe our kids through museums and website added: “Enjoy some of the
most memorable meals of your
life here, too, from fresh pasta to
succulent fried artichokes or
a tender oxtail stew.”
• An Italian
historian claims
to have identified
old churches, but we want them to the bridge in
enjoy the site, not suffer through it.” the background
The Trova app promises to counter of the world’s
this problem by getting kids excited most famous
Image © Trovatrails

about Rome’s history and so help the painting. Using

Detail of Mona Lisa,by Leonardo da Vinci,

image by C2RMF via WikimediaCommons
A fun way for kids to whole family better enjoy their trip. historical documents and drone
learn about Rome www.trovatrails.com images, Silvano Vinceti says he has
concluded that the bridge painted
in the landscape behind Leonardo

Online this month da Vinci’s Mona Lisa is the Romito di

Laterina bridge in the province of
Arezzo, Tuscany – a revelation that
American journalist Laura Itzkowitz is based in Rome caused delight among local people.
and created The New Roman Times – her regular
newsletter – writing about ‘people, places, and
things that matter to Romans and anyone who GOING DOWN
loves Rome’. Sign up for curated lists, articles and • A voluptuous mermaid statue
interviews to get her unique take on the Eternal that went on display in Monopoli,
City and beyond. newromantimes.substack.com Puglia, caused a stir for being
“too provocative”. The busty
sculpture, which was created by
students at the local art school,
Ligurian landmarks legislate against lingering boasts the kind of curvy buttocks
If you’re travelling to the Italian Riviera any time soon, make sure you don’t linger that could give the Kardashians a
for a selfie in Portofino. The picturesque Ligurian town is cracking down on tourists run for their money, but became
who hang around for too long taking photos in its popular beauty spots – with fines the subject of abuse and ridicule
of up to €275 for those who loiter in the dedicated ‘no waiting zones’. The zones have after photos were shared on
been established in some of the town’s most photogenic locations in an attempt to social media. Adolfo Marciano,
prevent the congestion that has become commonplace during peak season, as tourists the headteacher of the school,
descend to snap selfies and scenery. Explaining the need for the ban, the town’s mayor defended the statue, saying it was
Matteo Viacava described the ‘anarchic chaos’, blocked roads and traffic jams that occur a “tribute to the great majority of
during the summer months, thanks to tourists taking over Portofino’s prettiest parts. women who are curvy”.
The rules are already in place and will remain so until the end of October.

10 ITALIA! August/September 2023

A U G U S T / S E P T E M B E R I TA L I A !

THIS MONTH Italia! recommends

News &Views EMAIL

US WITH YOUR
QUESTIONS:
[email protected],
or write to us at our
usual address on
Hample Hampers
Creating delicious Italian food
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page 6.
HEALTHCARE IN ITALY FOR RESIDENT FOREIGNERS
Q Can foreign residents get access to the Italian healthcare system and how should they
go about it? Is the answer different in relation to UK citizens planning to move to Italy
permanently and those who might be sent there on a work secondment for a period of time?

A The management of the health service in Italy is entrusted to the local authorities (regions
and municipalities), which organise the provision of the service through the local hospitals
located in the various regions. With regards to the registration of (non-EU) foreigners legally
residing in Italy, a general “contributory” principle applies with the SSN (Servizio Sanitario Hample is a UK-based Italian hamper
Nazionale): “mandatory” (free) registration is permitted only to workers (employees or company with a difference. Owner
self-employed) who participate in public spending through the payment of taxes. The only Adriana ran her own Italian shop for
partial exception to this principle is for individuals with an “investor” visa who are entitled to over a decade before setting up Hample
compulsory registration. – the idea being that her specially
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flat-rate contribution. This enrolment entitles them to the “health card” with which they can in a specialist Italian deli.
easily access various services, such as the choice of a “family doctor” as well as health coverage
throughout the national territory (like Italian citizens) but it is not valid for other countries in
the ‘European Union’. The flat-rate contribution is provided for a fixed amount for students or au
pairs. For other categories (for example: elective residents) it is instead calculated in proportion
to the total income earned by the individual in the previous year (both in Italy and abroad), with
a maximum ceiling for the highest incomes. It should be noted that this “voluntary” registration
is valid for the calendar year (1 January-31 December) and also covers the other “dependent”
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education or starting out in their professional careers, and this year Liguria. Hample even welcomes special
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12 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 CHECK
OUT OU
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A U G U S T / S E P T E M B E R I TA L I A !

THIS MONTH
Readers’ Photos Send us your favourite Italian travel
photos, and each month the best photo
wins a bottle of Villa Sandi Il Fresco
Prosecco and exclusive bottle stopper!*

SEE MORE OF THIS MONTH’S WINNER Joe Fellini, Millis,

YOUR PHOTOS
ON OUR WEBSITE
Amanda Cummings, Felpham Massachusetts
italytravelandlife.com “A photo of Positano taken on a recent trip to Sorrento for our “Sunrise on Ischia.”
silver wedding. We spent a wonderful day touring the Amalfi
Coast by boat, and that enabled us to see this breathtakingly
beautiful part of the world from the best possible vista!”

Suzanne Walker, Great Notley

“Basilica Sant’Andrea delle Fratte.
Close to our hotel in Rome we
noticed a small church and on
wandering inside found a wonderful
interior with angels designed by
Bernini – even the churches in
Rome that appear unimposing from
the outside are full of wonder!”

14 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 PR VIL W
IN
OS LA
ECC SA
O & ND
HIGHLY COMMENDED
BO I IL
TTL FR
E S ESC
!
Constantine Matsos, TO O
Burlington, Ontario PP
ER
“The small fishing village of
Corricella on the island of Procida in
*
the Bay of Naples with its colourful
houses painted in the Mediterranean
pastel colours of pink, yellow, blue
and green. A great place to enjoy a
lazy lunch with a glass of wine.”

Steven Craig,
Centralia, Washington Kristýna Duchaňová,
“While shopping in Bellagio, Zruč-Senec, Czech Republic
we ran across this rack of “Malcesine, one of the most beautiful places in
scarves just out the door of Italy, where I spend every summer. A view of a
a shop. Molto bella!” castle and lake – my idea of heaven.”

*Prosecco and bottle stopper delivered to mainland UK addresses only. To find out more about Villa Sandi, see May 2017 issue.
Alexandra Houston,
London
“Italian wedding,
Rome, 2022.”

Susan Rodgers, North Wingfield

“Agrigento. I’d never been to Sicily before. It’s beautiful.” HOW TO PREPARE AND SEND YOUR PHOTOS
➤ Please make sure your photos are large, high-resolution JPEG, TIFF, HEIF or
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➤ Email your photos to [email protected] or send prints to ‘Reader Photo
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August/September 2023 ITALIA! 15

 A U G U S T / S E P T E M B E R I TA L I A !

THIS MONTH Italian Rules

In Print
Tom Benjamin,
Constable (imprint
of Little, Brown),
£9.99 (paperback)
‘When Hollywood
comes to Bologna, La
His new book includes more than 40 recipes Dolce Vita turns sweet
for ‘spectacular pasta doughs, shapes, fillings murder…’ Words like
and sauces’. Sharing his techniques in step- these are catnip for
by-step how-to sections guiding you through any crime thriller aficionado, which means
a huge variety of pasta shapes, Mateo shows devotees will enjoy turning the pages to find
the reader how to recreate his delicious pasta out what happens next in this fast-moving
at home. The recipes include his signature narrative. Our detective goes on the trail of a
coloured doughs, step-by-step photos missing film which takes him from glamorous
explaining the methods and – taking the Venice Lido to a secret tunnel network under
process a step further – QR codes for videos for the city of Bologna. The mystery deepens
more than 30 pasta shapes in the book. satisfyingly like the unfurling layers of an
Find out how to turn short and ribbon onion as the search for the missing negatives
pasta into tasty dishes such as tagliatelle leads to a possible murder-suicide in which he
with salmon and cherry tomatoes, chitarra is embroiled until the final credits roll. This is
with courgettes, peas and lemon ricotta, or the fourth of Tom Benjamin’s Detective Daniel
rigatoni amatriciana. Learn all about filled Leicester series and there’s certainly no let
pasta from mezzelune, ravioli and tortelli to up in pace. He’s fast becoming one of our
carmelle, scarpinocc and sfoglia lorda. There favourite sleuths.
are even some dried pasta dishes for quick and
easy suppers, when you’re short of time. The Little
From beginner level and beyond, this Italian Hotel
Pasta Masterclass accessible book is crammed with expertise to Phaedra Patrick,
Mateo Zielonka, Quadrille, seriously up your homemade pasta game. HQ (Harper Collins),
£26.00 (hardback) £8.99 (paperback)
Mateo Zielonka (aka The Pasta Man), is back in Summertime and
2023 with his second book Pasta Masterclass. the reading is easy…
Head chef at 180 Studios, a media and arts If you like to save
space in the Strand, London, where he has romantic fiction for your
his own pasta studio, he also has more than holidays, pop this one
460,000 followers on his @mateo.zielonka in your suitcase. With a gentle narrative arc of
Instagram account, not to mention TikTok, love, loss and redemption, immerse yourself
YouTube and the rest. His easy expertise and in The Little Italian Hotel, which explores
artful creativity is something to behold if you the themes of love and the importance of
are a lover of all things pasta. friendship while leaving the past behind.

My favourite place in Italy

Venice and the islands
CARMELA SERENO HAYES, CARMELA’S KITCHEN @CarmelasKitchen
I will never tire of Venice’s striking beauty,
its historical importance, the meandering
Images by Carmela Sereno Hayes

canals, beautiful bridges and produce markets. This

floating city and the neighbouring lagoon islands
offer something unique with every visit, The canals and
palazzi of Venice
that I welcome willingly with open arms.

16 ITALIA! August/September 2023

The main protagonist, Ginny Splinter, has

THIS MONTH
Top 5 Events
her own radio show as a relationship expert.
Confident in her empathic skills, she’s sure her
husband, Adrian, will love the golden wedding If you’re
anniversary trip to Italy she’s planned. But planning to attend
any of these events,
he has other ideas, asking her for a divorce do make sure they
instead. Impulsively inviting four similarly are taking place
before you
heartbroken listeners to join her on her travel!
trip, Ginny and her new friends embark on

1
an adventure which delivers fun, hope and Here’s one for all you
healing. From hiking the hills of Bologna to culture vultures to
sharing a gondola in Venice and dancing until check out this summer…
dawn, this is perfect summer holiday reading. STRESA FESTIVAL in Lombardy
attracts crowds from across
Allison Zurfluh Italy and beyond to enjoy top-
and the Venice class jazz and classical music
Lagoon every year. During the festival
Allison Zurfluh, visitors can expect to attend
(self-published, to performances by international
order see below) artists taking place at various
€35, plus shipping venues around Lake Maggiore, Lake Orta and Val d’Ossola.
The fragility of the www.stresafestival.eu, 14 July – 8 September
Venice lagoon is

(detail page), CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=71656146

Image by Sandro Casuzzi - Imported from 500px (archived version) by the Archive Team.
obvious to anyone Tuscany’s Torre del Lago has been the atmospheric setting for the
who has visited this unique wetland area. PUCCINI FESTIVAL since 1930, a unique event celebrating the works
Those who live there are even more aware of of the Italian composer Giacomo Puccini in the place he loved and
the continuing threat to its watery ecosystem. where he lived and worked. This year’s much-anticipated performances
But it is also a place of stunning beauty and will include Madame Butterfly, Il Tabarro and Turandot.
exquisite natural biodiversity. www.puccinifestival.it, 14 July – 26 August
Someone who knows this first hand is

3
author and artist Allison Zurfluh, who is This year heralds the 80th edition of Venice’s annual FILM
passionate about the conservation and FESTIVAL, and once again the city will be taken over by the top
sustainability of the lagoon, and this special names from the world of cinema. Screenings, parties, retrospectives
book is a celebration of the beautiful place and awards will take place around Venice during the glitzy event, which
she now calls home, through her evocative routinely attracts thousands of visitors from all over the world.
paintings, moving prose and stunning www.labiennale.org, 30 August – 9 September
photography. €5 from every copy sold is

4
donated to the Venice Lagoon Plastic Free NGO. Mantua in Lombardy is the host city for the FESTIVAL LETTERATURA,
To order, visit www.allisonzurfluhartist.ch or if a wide-ranging literature festival which sees world-famous authors,
you’re on the island of Burano, you can pick up poets, essayists and artists (as well as book lovers from far and
a copy from Cartoleria di Pavan Anna. wide) gather for readings, performances, workshops, concerts and more.
www.festivaletteratura.it, 6-10 September

5
Take a step back in
time at the GIOSTRA
DELLA QUINTATA – a
jousting tournament between
the various districts of
Foligno, Umbria. Although
its origins go right back to
the Middle Ages, the modern
incarnation of the event was
only revived as recently as
1946. The ‘challenge’ part
of the festival takes place in June, but September sees the ‘counter
Carmela has
challenge’, including the jousting itself and parades in historical costume.
returned to
Venice often
www.quintana.it, 16-17 September

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 17

THE
ITALIA!
GUIDE & FLORENCE
You’ll find all the
inspiration you need
to plan your next
trip to the beautiful
region of Tuscany
with our new
travel guide.
Out now!

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 A U G U S T / S E P T E M B E R I TA L I A !

THIS MONTH
Top Picks
COFFEE IN MONO
Vintage-look Black Italian
espresso cup and saucer set,
£88, www.spode.co.uk

Time to relax and browse through this late

summer round-up of Italian-inspired products

SUN SEEKER
Wide brim straw
hat, £28, www.
nationaltrust
.org.uk

SWEET CITRUS
Clementine Honey Candle from Amalfi,
$16.99, www.yellowoctopus.com.au
MADE IN ITALY
Large splatterware
platter in Sage, £70,
www.gracesisters.com
FRESHEN UP
All your luxury travel
essentials £33, www. COOL SHADES
baylisandharding.com Cooper tortoiseshell
sunglasses £95, www.
andsons.co.uk

TRAVEL
SCENTS
Bliss out on-
the-go with
Made by Zen’s
USB-powered
Prices correct at time of printing

Liv travel aroma

diffuser, £35,
www.very.com

THE RICE IS RIGHT

New from Riso Gallo, Carnaroli Risotto 1856,
£3.25 for 250g, www.risogallo.co.uk

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 19

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

The Prato della Valle in Padua is a 90,000 square metre elliptical piazza
that is quite comfortably the largest piazza in Italy

20 ITALIA! August/September 2023

Before 1635 this actually was a ‘prato della valle’, a meadow of the valley, but then a
group of wealthy Venetians came together to develop the land as a venue to showcase
their mock battles on horseback hobby. The Venetians’ own brand of late Renaissance
live-action roleplaying continued for over a century, until in 1767 the Prato came
into municipal ownership (it had previously actually been the property of a local
monastery) and the vision was born to develop the land into the piazza we see today.
That vision hasn’t always gone to plan – even within living memory Il Prato has been
really quite run down, but today it is a highlight of any visit to Padua.

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 21

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Lido is a great
place to relax and
take a break from
the hordes of
tourists crowding
the historical
heart of the city

The Grand Hotel

des Bains

The Hotel Excelsior

has its own
private beach

22 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 L’ISOLA D’ORO or THE GOLDEN ISLAND
Discover the sights and history of al
Venice Internation
the Lido di Venezia on a cycling Film Festival HQ
tour with Venetian Sara Scarpa
• NICELLI AIRPORT

• PIAZZALE RAVÀ

• COCO BEACH

GRAN VIALE • • VILLA

• VIA LUNGOMARE MARCONI

VIA LEPATO •

Destination
Alberoni Beach • PIAZZALE DEL CASINÒ

RIVA DI CORINTO •

• SEA WALL

L
ido di Venezia is a thin sandbar VIA SANDRO GALLO •
stretching for twelve kilometres
that has protected the historical
heart of Venice from the Adriatic
Sea, pirates and naval invasions
for more than a thousand years. Beyond its against the sea), sandy beaches (awarded
natural practicality, it also has an endearing once again, now for nine consecutive years,
side and was at one point one of the most with a Blue Flag Award), a protected natural
iconic landmarks in the ‘golden age of film’ – reserve and a beautiful golf course all make a • PONTE DI BORGO

it is still linked to cinema through its hosting trip to Lido very worthwhile.
of the Venice International Film Festival,
the oldest and still one of the biggest film
festivals in the world.
ROMAN TIMES
Inhabited since Roman times, Lido was one
Venice
Taking place every year between the end
of August and the beginning of September,
of the first settlements within the Venetian
Lagoon. Malamocco, at the south end of • Lido
Images by Iain Reid, www.beanotownphotography.com

VIA MALAMOCCO
the festival attracts many big stars and the island, was in fact the capital of La
visitors, but the island has a lot more to Serenissima from 742 to 811, after which KEY
offer, especially in the warmer months (from it was decided to move it to Rialto over • DAY 1

mid-May to mid-September). Located only more protected lands. Lido – San Nicolò • DAY 2
a 15-minute boat journey from the famous specifically, on the northern side of the island
Map data © Google 2023

Saint Mark’s Square, Lido is a great place – has been for centuries the setting of the • GOLF COURSE

to relax and take a break from the hordes Sposalizio del Mare (Marriage of the Sea),
of tourists crowding the historical heart of a beautiful ancient ceremony that dates back • OASIS OF ALBERONI

the city. Wonderful Art Deco architecture, to the year 1000.

pleasant cycles along the 18th-century Every year, on the occasion of the Feast of
Murazzi (an impressive defensive system the Ascension, and held to commemorate

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 23

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

WHERE TO STAY Piers reaching out into Moorish

the Adriatic Sea influence at
HOTEL EXCELSIOR – VENICE LIDO RESORT the Excelsior
Via Lungomare Marconi, 41
www.hotelexcelsiorvenezia.com
This beautiful 5-star hotel dates back to
1908 and has recently been restored in
a unique Moorish style. It overlooks the
Adriatic Sea – with its own private golden
sandy beach – and would make a great
base from which to explore Venice while
remaining in a tranquil location (it is the defeat by the doge Pietro Orseolo of the
located only a short water taxi ride from Slavs who threatened Istria and Dalmatia II,
Saint Mark’s Square). The hotel boasts a solemn procession of boats headed by the
three restaurants, three bars and, of Bucintoro (the Doge’s richly decorated boat)
course, its wonderful swimming pool.
would have reached San Nicolò from Saint
MABAPA Mark’s Square. On his arrival at the front of
Riviera San Nicolò, 16 San Nicolò church, the Doge would have
www.villamabapa.com dropped a consecrated ring into the Lagoon Armeni. A keen sportsman, and never one to
Perfectly located in front of the lagoon to symbolise Venice’s maritime dominion shirk a challenge, Byron successfully defeated
and near the beach, this is an elegant and the eternal bond that existed between a Venetian in a swimming challenge that
4-star hotel that has been run by Venice and the sea. started on the banks of the Lido and finished
the same family for more than four
San Nicolò, due to its strategic position at the end of the Grand Canal!
generations. The villa was built in a
late Art Nouveau style at the end of the
at the port entrance to the Adriatic Sea, It was on the island that in 1857 the first
1920s as a private residence and today
was also the place where ships would sail bathing facilities in Europe were built. They
it also consists of two other buildings: for trades with the East, and where in 1202 were so successful that in the early 20th
Villa Morea and Casa Pradel. The hotel thousands of crusaders had to camp out century they became one of the most sought-
still has antique furniture and paintings
belonging to the family.
ALBERTI RELAIS VENEZIA
Lord Byron used to horse ride with Percy Shelley here
Campo della Chiesa, 3
www.relaisalberti.com
on the beach and Via Cipro before sailing after seaside resorts in the world. The lido –
This is a luxury small hotel located in onto the Fourth Crusade. It still inspires the an Italian word for a shore or a beach, which
the ancient village of Malamocco. The occasional person to go there with a metal was once a generic title for all thin islands
ancient Ca’ Alberti Villa is now a refined detector looking for buried artefacts. – became ‘The Lido’ and its success and the
Relais de Charme with a wonderful Citrus proximity to the historical centre of Venice
Garden where you can enjoy the buffet LITERARY MATTERS quickly made it famous worldwide.
breakfast or a cocktail at sunset. Le Before the Liberty Villas, hotels and bars At the beginning of the 1900s the private
Locandiere, Michela and Micaela, will were established, the Lido was indeed quite airport Nicelli opened, followed a few years
welcome you to this wonderful place wild in its topography and the beaches facing later by the building of the iconic Hotel
of relaxation and silence. Here you can the Adriatic Sea were a favourite spot for Excelsior. However, it was in 1932, with the
take a cooking class with the Locandiere Lord Byron, who used to horse ride with creation of the famous Film Festival, that
and help to prepare delicious homemade
Shelley while conversing about literary Lido became the ultimate destination. This
dishes after having collected all the
ingredients from their garden or at the
matters following his studies of Armenian meant a greater number of visitors coming
local organic market. literature on the island of San Lazzaro degli to the island and therefore several changes
were made with regards to access and
transport, and to the aspect of the beaches,
The Excelsior also offers which turned from wild into elegant and
private shuttle boats
fashionable destinations.
Thanks to its beauty, Lido has inspired
many writers and personalities throughout
the centuries: Johann Wolfgang von Goethe,
Lord Byron, Richard Wagner, Sigmund
Freud, Hermann Hesse, Thomas Mann,
Winston Churchill, Paul Newman, Sophia
Loren and Sean Connery – to name just a
few! The island continues to attract many
Venetians and visitors in the summer, but
luckily it is still peaceful and most of its
spacious beaches are uncrowded and relaxed.

24 ITALIA! August/September 2023

DAY 1
GRAN VIALE TO ALBERONI
Once off the boat we cross the road and
walk past the church to the main pedestrian
street, Gran Viale (Viale Santa Maria
Elisabetta) with its many restaurants, shops
and hotels. After just a few metres, past
the newsagent on the left-hand side, we
hire bicycles at Lido on Bike. We decide
Via Lungomare d’Annunzio runs
to make the trip to the far west end of the alongside private beaches
island, the destination of Alberoni. This
particular route allows you to take in many
of Lido’s highlights and you get a sense of its
glitzy past as well as its present day holiday
destination intrigue.
At the beach end of Gran Viale we take
a right turn onto a beautiful long stretch,
Via Lungomare Marconi. We cycle past an
imposing building with Neoclassical features,
the Grand Hotel des Bains. Unfortunately
the hotel has been closed for over thirteen
years and is still waiting for a major work
of restoration. However, it was opened
temporarily during the Venice International
Tennis Club Venezia on
Film Festival 2018 for an interesting Lungomare Marconi
exhibition about the history of the Film
Festival, which gave me another brief chance
to enjoy its stunning interiors and made Murazzi is the place for you. Alternatively
me nostalgic about its past splendour. The you can opt for the long dams which reach
once luxury hotel, built in 1900, attracted out into the sea at both ends of the island,
aristocratic families and intellectuals from San Nicolò and Alberoni.
all over Europe and it is famous for having
inspired Thomas Mann’s Death in Venice and TAKING A DETOUR
for being the setting of the movie by Luchino We keep cycling straight along Via
Visconti based on the same novella. Lungomare Marconi and we reach the
Piazzale del Casinò. Before keeping on Awaiting restoration
SANDY BEACHES straight we take a detour to have a look
A long succession of sandy beaches stretches at the charming Hotel Quattro Fontane.
along most of the length of the island. Surrounded by a verdant garden the hotel Interior of El Pecador
From Venezia Spiagge SPA Lungomare resembles the typical Nordic cottage and
d’Annunzio to Eurotel at end of Via maintains furniture and decorations in the
Lungomare Marconi the beaches are private Liberty style. It was built in the area where
(but you can still freely walk, as long as you once stood the famous Casino Pisani, which
don’t stop, along the pretty waterfront). was attended by many famous personalities,
They are easily accessible and some offer the including the poet Robert Browning.
possibility to rent beach umbrellas or cabins
if you wish to leave your clothes and personal
belongings and go for a swim. The double-decker
El Pecador bar on the
At the very south end of the island,
Lungomare d’Annunzio
the beach of Alberoni, and the one on the
opposite end, the beach of San Nicolò, are
free and wilder. There is also a small strip
of public beach not too far from the centre
of the island – once located at the end of
the Gran Viale, in 2019 the public beach
was moved closer to the old entrance of the
public hospital of the island – or an open
air swimming pool (Blue Pool) if you don’t
walk further. If you prefer rocky beaches the

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 25

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

WHERE TO EAT
GRANVIALE RESTAURANT
Gran Viale Santa Maria Elisabetta, 10
www.ristorantegranviale.it
Actively run by the friendly owner
Claudio, this fantastic restaurant is
located only a couple of minutes from the
main boat stop in Lido. In a wonderful
environment with outdoor seating you
can enjoy traditional fish dishes, a
Palazzo del Casinò, now used by the Film Festival
new creative cuisine, but also a great
selection of meat and pizzas.
ROXY BAR Returning to the Piazzale we pass Palazzo Murazzi. This is not very well signposted, so
Gran Viale Santa Maria Elisabetta, 49/g del Casinò, the monumental, austere if you find yourself suddenly on the lagoon
www.ristoranteroxybar.it building in the Rationalist style influenced side of the island you have gone too far and
Started at the beginning of the ’fifties by the Fascist architecture of the 1930s. need to double back! This historical seawall
by Cavalier Giuseppe Cimò in the place The Casinò closed in the late 1990s and the stretching from Via Cristoforo Colombo to
where the Rosi ice-cream parlour used to building has since been used by the Biennale Alberoni is a huge Istrian-stone bank lined
stand, the Roxy Bar restaurant is now run during the Venice International Film Festival with many small dams advancing in the sea –
by his grandchildren Adriano, Francesca to house press services and screenings. Next a great defensive system for the lagoon which
and Shauna. Located in the middle to it stands the white façade of the Palazzo functions also as a great spot for sunbathing
of Gran Viale, Roxy Bar offers great
del Cinema, the main headquarters of the in total relaxation in the summer! Along the
interiors, outdoor seating and a pretty
garden where you can enjoy excellent
Venice International Film Festival; its red way while cycling between the sea on one
local dishes.
carpets have been walked by some of the side and thickets, tamarisks, and gardens
most important directors and actors. The with the occasional bunker and Austrian fort
Neo-Baroque façade of the Palazzo delle on the other side, we come across the odd
Esposizioni (now hosting Lyon’s bar) stands beach hut created by the young Venetians
in front of the opulent Moresque building using driftwood and other material washed
of the luxury hotel Excelsior with its many ashore with the tide. These are used in the
arches, crenellations, domes and turrets. summer for people to rest in the shade as
Then, instead of turning and following there aren’t any cabins this far up the beach.
PANCIN L’OSTERIA the curve of Via Colombo, we cross the Cycling along this stretch of the island
Via Paolo Manuzio, 3 road and stay on the seaside by going up is very beautiful: there is a real sense of
☎ 349 041 3091115 the small path which leads to the bank of freedom – no crowds, no selfie sticks and
Located just ten minutes away from the
Gran Viale, this osteria offers great local
Path from Murazzi Cyclists coming the
traditional dishes which are nowadays
to Malamocco other way along
quite difficult to find in Venice. Try bollito
Murazzi sea wall
misto, fegato alla Veneziana con polenta
and castradina.
TRATTORIA AL PONTE DI BORGO
– DA MAURETTO
Calle Merceria, 27a
Located in the ancient village of
Malamocco, towards the southern end
of the island, this restaurant offers great
local fish dishes in a cosy atmosphere. Malamocco, a far cry from the
You can also enjoy great cicchetti and bustle of Saint Mark’s
an ombra (a small glass of house wine)
while standing at the bar surrounded by
the locals.
PARCO DELLE ROSE
Gran Viale Santa Maria Elisabetta, 59
The Rose Park restaurant located in the
middle of Gran Viale definitely stands out
for being surrounded by pretty colourful
flowers and a large verdant garden. In
this wonderful and relaxed environment
you can enjoy a simple pizza or great
local dishes.

26 ITALIA! August/September 2023

with nothing but the sun and a warm sea
breeze as you look out towards the Adriatic
Sea – and you soon find yourself in the small
but charming area of Malamocco.
Here we turn inwards, follow the small
path and cross the pretty bridge called Ponte
di Borgo which takes us to the ancient
village. Entering Malamocco is like stepping I would
back in time: its calli and small campi seem recommend
to be unchanged. I was born and raised in Gran Viale
Lido and this cycle, accompanied by a quick
food pitstop is still, after all these years, one
Claudio,
of my favourites. In Malamocco we usually
impresario of Gran
stop at Trattoria Al Ponte di Borgo (also Viale Restaurant
known as Da Mauretto) to eat a mozzarella
con acciughe (a fried sandwich filled with
mozzarella and anchovies) and some seppe lagoon and if the sky is clear we will
roste (roasted squids) washed down with a be able to take in the beautiful panorama Indoor and outdoor
seating at the Roxy Bar
glass of prosecco. We then move only a few with Venice, the lagoon and the Colli
metres away to enjoy a double portion of Euganei in the background.
one of the best baccalà mantecato in Venice After Via Malamocco and the start
(salted creamed cod) at Trattoria da Scarso. of Via Sandro Gallo we turn inwards to
Riviera Benedetto Marcello and then to
GOLF COURSE Riva di Corinto. We will be cycling in
After lunch we head to Alberoni, passing one front of some Venetian islands – such
of the oldest and best golf courses in Europe. as Poveglia, Lazzaretto Vecchio and San
The course has 18 holes with a par and a Lazzaro degli Armeni – which have been
standard scratch score of 72. It has a surface really important for the history of the city
area of almost 300,000 hectares and is built for having contributed to spreading culture
on sand dunes winding across pines and and civilisation and for having protected
vegetation with natural-sand bunkers, which its trades by functioning as quarantine
definitely make the game more interesting. stations and medical units.
The location, the greenery (which is kept Returning to Gran Viale we usually sit
in pristine condition) and the three small down for a spritz at Glacial, where Mario
lakes create a charming setting. The Venice and his daughter Giorgia serve that fantastic
Golf club started in 1930, a few years after Venetian aperitif accompanied by some
the magnate Henry Ford had visited his complimentary – and well-deserved after
friend Count Volpi in Lido. According to our long cycle! – pizza slices and fries.
the story, Ford would have arrived at the We then often go for dinner at Ristorante
Hotel Excelsior with his golf clubs only to Gran Viale to enjoy some delicious fish
find out that there wasn’t a golf course in dishes with local wine. Our favourites have
Venice. The story goes that Count Volpi to be the gnocchetti di patate alla granceola
Roxy Bar
promised his friend that he would be able to (small gnocchi with spider crab) and the restaurant menu
return to play within three months – gran tecia (linguini with mixed fish).
and that is how the golf course started!
We leave this place of incredible beauty
The Alberoni golf course, one of
to reach another nearby gem, the Oasis of
the oldest and best in Europe
Alberoni. Located at the southernmost end
of the island, this protected natural reserve
has high dunes and a diverse ecosystem
which includes protected bird species.
Once at Alberoni we go in direction of the
pier and stop for a drink at Macondo, the
exotic-looking summer kiosk on the public
beach. It’s a fantastic place to unwind with
others who have reached here by bike or have
moored their boats in the shallow waters in
front of the beach. On the way back we cycle
on the side of the island overlooking the

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 27

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

child my family has always been renting one

for the season to share with friends. I have
some great memories of us having lunch
in the shade of the capanna, playing cards
and celebrating many birthdays together.
I still find it incredible to think that this
tranquil beach is only a short walk and boat
journey away from the Doges’ Palace, Saint
Mark’s Square and all the wonderful art and
architecture in the centre of Venice. So close
Villa Margherita dates
to the early 1920s
but a world apart!

BEAUTIFUL VILLAS
DAY 2 After a late lunch and a coffee at the Coco
Elegant villa in
Via Fra’ Mauro A MORE RELAXING DAY Beach kiosk we start our cycle to admire
Although Lido is very flat and inclines the beautiful villas of the island. The
accomplished on yesterday’s cycle extended predominant styles, Art Nouveau (known
to one very short bridge, the sun, salt air as Liberty in Italy) and Art Deco coming
blowing in from the sea and the spritz or from overseas have been mixing with the
three may all result in you wanting a more Venetian style and have given life to the
relaxing day. Well thankfully, the long sandy typical architecture of Lido. The inspiration
beaches are the ideal place to rejuvenate. A by natural forms, especially the curved lines
sun lounger, mint granita, and good book of plants and flowers, typical of the Art
will usually accompany me as I settle into a Nouveau, was popular on the island around
day of peace with the lapping waves of the the beginning of the 20th century. This
Adriatic thrown in for good measure. It is period saw a big process of urbanisation with
still early morning on a weekday and there the triumph of decoration and the use of
are only a few people around as most are new materials mixed with the old ones which
busy working and the schools haven’t broken changed the aspect of the island.
off yet for their summer holidays. Leaving the beach behind us, we pass by
Today we are leaving our shorter cycle to Villa Margherita, an elegant building with
the late afternoon as it is very hot and Venice a pretty garden and a beautifully decorated
can suffer from high humidity levels in the iron gate and we cycle towards Riviera San
summer, so I suspect the there will be a few Nicolò, passing one of the oldest Jewish
dips taken in the fresh and appealing water cemeteries in Europe. After Villa Mabapa,
in front of us. The sand is golden and the a beautiful hotel built at the end of the
water – even though it is never crystalline Twenties, we continue straight and cross
blue like the Mediterranean Sea – is often the bridge to visit the impressive Church of
really clean. Even when it is busier the private Saint Nicholas. Built in the 11th century
beach is never crowded from road to shore and reconstructed in the 17th century, the
like most Italian beaches. (You can also enjoy church is believed to host the relics of the
the same peace and privacy on the public patron saint of sailors (which are shared
The Liberty Villas (where
beaches of San Nicolò and Alberoni). The with Bari). Behind the church there is an
Sara’s grandmother
lived with her family) private capanne (the beach huts) are quite ancient Benedictine monastery which today
spacious and comfortable. Since I was a hosts the European Inter-University Centre
for Human Rights and Democratisation
(EIUC). Here, in the nave of the ancient
Villa Jolanda is a Basilica di San Nicolò, hidden behind three
private residence
doors and unfortunately rarely open to the
public, is a beautiful mosaic pavement dating
to the 11th century.
The whole San Nicolò area was a huge
fortress for centuries until the middle of
the 20th century but only a few traces of its
fortifications are still visible today. Defensive
structures were also found elsewhere on
the island (the Murazzi, forts, batteries
and octagons in the lagoon area) but here,
at the main entrance to the city, they

28 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 Sara’s top tips
for exploring
the Venice Lido
Do take a trip to
Villa Elena,Benito Mussolini’s summer holiday house
Pellestrina
If you are visiting
in the summer
were obviously particularly strengthened, has fallen into decline and casts a shadow pay a visit to
especially after the war of Chioggia against on the island. (However, it has recently the nearby
Genoa and with the threat of the Ottoman been purchased by CompuGroup Medical island of Pellestrina, which is
Turks in the 16th century when the Fort of who are planning to implement an eHealth accessible by getting a ferry
Sant’Andrea was built (the fort is located just Technopark, a technological park to develop from Alberoni, at the south end
opposite San Nicolò). and market innovative artificial intelligence of the Lido di Venezia. This is an
applications for the medical sector.) At the enchanting and tranquil fishing
HELICOPTER TOURS roundabout that guides you into Gran Viale, village overlooking the lagoon.
We then head to the airport Nicelli with its there is a lovely villa with a vast garden, Come here by bike and discover
Art Deco style. It was used to protect Venice this residence built in a typical Nordic its colourful houses, its sandy
during the First World War, in the ’thirties architecture style, is known to be the house beaches – frequented almost
it was the most important airport after the Benito Mussolini used when sharing summer exclusively by the locals – and the
one in Rome and today it is used for sport holidays here with family. If you wish to peaceful seafront, which is perfect
aviation and helicopter tours over the city. view more Liberty Villas, turn left into Via for lovely walks at sunset.
We stop for a drink and a tasty bruschetta Dardanelli and then Via Lazzaro Mocenigo
mergellina (mozzarella with cherry tomatoes) to admire some more examples. Also visit Chioggia
From Lido di Venezia you can reach
HOUSES AND SHOPS the island of Pellestrina and from
We get off our bikes to walk along the here you can get a boat to reach
pedestrian Via Lepanto with the elegant Chioggia, a medium-sized fishing
Villa Romanelli and Villa Otello on the town with ancient origins which
opposite sides of the canal. We pass the is connectesd to the mainland.
many bars and Piazzetta Lepanto and reach Chioggia has a nice morning fish
Gran Viale with its wonderful houses and market and a local market every
pretty shops. The Hotel Hungaria, which Thursday morning selling clothes,
has recently been restored, has a stunning fruit and vegetables. There are
1920s splendour colourful façade adorned with decorated also two museums, an impressive
of the Grand Hotel majolica. It resembles a huge fresco inspired cathedral, some interesting
Ausonia & Ungaria by Renaissance themes but in a style which churches and some fine works of
is typical Liberty and represents a perfect art to be discovered.
at Pedrocchi, one of the best kiosks in example of harmonious mix of pure art with
Lido, located in Piazzale Ravà. Only a crafts application. On the other side of Gran Have breakfast at Garbisa
few minutes away on the beach front we Viale, Villa Eva is one of the most decorated Enjoy a macchiatone (a large
find Paradise Beach, a beach club with a houses, especially in its interiors. macchiato) and a cestino di frutta
great restaurant where the wonderful Marco Finally, we walk to Santa Maria (a small pastry with cream and
and Silvia serve fantastic local food and Elisabetta, just a few metres from the public fresh fruits).
drinks. Nearby is the Pachuka Disco Beach, boat stop and we take a seat at the bar of
the relaxed lounge bar and restaurant on the Villa Laguna to sip our last spritz while Don’t miss out on a spritz
beach front which hosts parties throughout taking in the fantastic view of the Venetian The typical Venetian aperitif
the summer. If we keep cycling, we’ll reach lagoon at sunset. is made with white wine (or
the lighthouse. From there we can see the prosecco), soda water and Aperol
Adriatic Sea, Punta Sabbioni and part of the and served with a slice of orange
Mose’s structure: the controversial system of
GETTING THERE and a green olive. Glacial and
retractable sea barriers designed to prevent British Airways (www.ba.com) flies to Venice Maleti are some of our favourite
flooding caused by the acqua alta, in use from London Heathrow, Gatwick and City. For places to enjoy our spritz in Lido.
short stays with hotels, see BA Holidays (www.
since October 2020 in the event of high
britishairways.com).
tides, when appropriately forecast in time. Try a spot of sunbathing and
Other airlines will fly you from the UK to Venice,
On returning to Gran Viale we pass the swimming at Murazzi
but do note Venice Treviso is much further than
old hospital units and along Lungomare Venice Marco Polo when travelling on the Lido.
They weren’t built for this purpose
d’Annunzio. Sadly the once famous hospital but they serve it very well!

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 29

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D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Image © Alex Filz

‘Overturning horizons’ at the Hubertus

‘Ambivalent tension’ at the AEON

ARCHITECTURE
Looking for a holiday with a difference? Jenny Oldaker picks out a few of the best places to stay
in Italy where you can enjoy contemporary architecture that pushes the boundaries of design…

32 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 T
he Colosseum… St Mark’s Basilica… the Duomo in
Florence… the list of Italy’s groundbreaking historic
architecture could fill an entire stack of phone books,
and these iconic structures are a huge draw for the
hordes of tourists that descend on the peninsula each
year. However, Italy also has some incredible modern architecture to
explore, with groundbreaking structures like Stefano Boeri’s Bosco
Verticale (Vertical Forest) in Milan and a roster of world-famous
architects (including the likes of Renzo Piano) keeping the country
at the cutting edge of architectural innovation.
Today, Italy’s architectural reputation is being upheld by world-class
designers who continue to push boundaries and create magical spaces.
And what better way to experience these spaces than in a hotel? We’ve
selected five architecturally stunning places to stay where you can
marvel at the best of Italy’s modern design while lolling on your king-
size bed or reclining by the state-of-the-art swimming pool.
Image © i-Suite Hotel

Rimini’s
i-SUITE hotel

Paramount Alma,
Image © Alex Filz

Image © Oskar Da Riz

Dolomites

The Mirror Houses,

Dolomites
Image © Alex Filz

What better way

to experience these
spaces than in a hotel?
August/September 2023 ITALIA! 33
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Image © Alex Filz

The iconic wellness zone This unique space is set out on a suspended
The building that houses the HOTEL HUBERTUS
has operated as a guesthouse since the 1960s,
though it has undergone a number of extensions
steel platform above the Dolomites,
and renovations over the years. Recently,
however, it has engaged the services of the
extending out beyond the main hotel
designers at NOA to create some truly special
architectural elements.
First designing the hotel’s cantilevered swimming
pool in 2019, the vision was to create the effect of a
rock stranded between earth and sky, The resulting
‘Skypool’ is an architectural marvel that seems to float
above the landscape; the water’s surface melding into
the surroundings.
Then, last year, NOA completed a dedicated
wellbeing extension for the hotel, a ‘hub of huts’ that
proved an even more ambitious undertaking. Known
as ‘Heaven & Hell’, this unique space is set out on
a suspended steel platform above the Dolomites,
extending out beyond the main hotel and made up of
two levels – the lower of which appears to be anchored
upside down, its huts clinging to the base of the
structures above. The concept plays with point of view
and our perception of upside-down:
“The essence of this project is the overturning of
horizons, with the resulting effect of wonder for the
observer,” explains Lukas Rungger, the architect in
charge of the project. “If you think about it, changing
perspectives is a common exercise in wellness areas,
where, depending on whether you are lying in the
Image © Alex Filz

sauna, sitting in the relaxation area, or diving headfirst

into the pool, the views are constantly changing.”
Via Furcia 5, 39030 Sorafurcia, Valdaora
www.hotel-hubertus.com

34 ITALIA! August/September 2023

The adults-only retreat Zaha Hadid in Italy
The AEON is a simply magnificent wellness hotel, which has been Legendary Iraqi-British architect
designed by the celebrated architects at NOA. Owned by the Zaha Hadid (1950-2016) is credited
Ramoser family, the new hotel’s design took inspiration from with redefining the architecture of
their nearby guesthouse, the 550-year-old Lobishof, to create the 21st century, designing iconic

Image © Getty
structures all over the globe. She
a building that blends tradition and modernity and which is in
enjoyed an enduring association with Italy, and designed
perfect harmony with its surroundings. landmark buildings across the peninsula, including:
Made up of two buildings – one which houses the 15 guest suites and
another comprising reception, bistro, bar, and wellness area – the two MAXXI National Museum of 21st Century Art
ingeniously connected via a hallway that elegantly vanishes under an This richly complex structure offers a unique, versatile
artificially created hill. space for both its permanent displays and programmes of
“The creation of an ambivalent tension between the centuries-old temporary cultural exhibitions and events. The MAXXI exists
tradition of the rural complex and an exclusively modern statement as a work of art in its own right and is a celebrated addition
was the basic principle underlying the design process,” says architect to Rome’s unrivalled roster of architectural treasures.
Christian Rottensteiner. As such, the new buildings are consciously
modelled on the existing complex to create a gentle bond with the past MAXXI National Museum
– the marriage of past and present most strikingly evident in the black of 21st Century Art
steel entrance portal, which bears the family’s 1464 coat of arms.
The exterior is characterised by its muted wooden structure and

Image © Hufton+Crow Photographers

wide, trapezoid windows that allow light to stream in, while the indoor
scheme is bold and striking: beige and deep blue shades showcase a
stark colour contrast and the plush, high-end furniture echoes the
theme. “We have carefully chosen the fabrics, woods and colours
that play both with and against each other at the same time,” explains
interior designer, Patrick Gürtler.
Via della Diga 9, 39054 Renon Soprabolzano www.aeon.it

Messner Mountain Museum Corones

The AEON’s ‘muted wooden structure’ Set on the summit plateau of Kronplatz, high in the
Image © Alex Filz

Dolomites, this museum is dedicated to mountaineering

history. The unique structure juts from its surroundings as
if sprouting from the rock itself and is as impressive as the
views from its magnificent viewing platform.

Messner Mountain
Museum Corones

Image © Wisthaler.com
Salerno Maritime Station
Located on Salerno’s Manfredi Dock, the maritime terminal
resembles an oyster, its sturdy shell a protective shield
to the ‘fluid and light’ elements within. It incorporates a
Wellness pool at the AEON terminal for ferries and cruise ships, ticket office, waiting
Image © Alex Filz

room and conference hall, though the building is an

attraction in its own right.
Image © Hufton+Crow
Photographers

Salerno Maritime Station

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 35

 D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

‘Evoking lightness’ at
the Mirror Houses

The Mirror Houses’ cantilevering terraces

Image © Oskar Da Riz

‘Sinuous white curves’

at the i-SUITE hotel
Image © Oskar Da Riz

The modern holiday home

There’s something about mountain scenery that lends itself to
innovative design. Set, again, in the Dolomites area, these holiday
houses are an architecture-lover’s dream. Designed by the team
at Peter Pichler Architecture, THE MIRROR HOUSES comprise two
luxurious holiday homes set among apple orchards near Bolzano
(‘Gateway to the Dolomites’), each sleeping two to four guests and
offering total peace and privacy.
The building’s name comes from the mirrored glass cladding on the west
façade, which creates a striking contemporary effect, whilst simultaneously
helping the structure to blend into its environment as it reflects the peaks
and contours of the breathtaking local skyline.
According to the architects behind the project, “Both units are floating
on a base above the ground, evoking lightness, besides offering better
Image © i-Suite Hotel

views from their cantilevering terraces to the impressive surrounding

landscape.” These terraces offer ample opportunity to drink in the
beautiful scenery, while a swimming pool is on offer during the summer
months for maximising time spent outside.
Inside, the Mirror Houses are a paean to sleek, modern design, with
Image © i-Suite Hotel

high-end finish and a luxurious feel throughout. Each unit consists of

a kitchen/living room and a bathroom/bedroom, which enjoys a large
skylight. Set directly above the bed, this detail enables guests to see into
the night sky to offer the feeling of sleeping outside beneath the stars.
Via Agruzzo 75, 39100 Bolzano www.mirror-houses.com

36 ITALIA! August/September 2023

The sustainable Find out more
mountain base

Image © Hertha Hurnaus

Delve deeper into some of Italy’s
contemporary architects here:
Plasma Studio is the firm
behind the beautiful holiday FUKSAS Studio
The Paramount Alma,
suites of PARAMOUNT ALMA in ‘floating from the hillside’
Run by Massimiliano and Doriana
the Dolomites. The structure, Fuksas, and with offices in Rome, Paris,
Shenzen and Dubai, the firm has been
which appears almost floating from the hillside blends pleasingly with the natural
a celebrated fixture in architecture for
environment: faceted larch wood sticks wrap around the complex, while expansive 40 years, and has completed more than
glazing reflects the light and the mountainous landscape, helping create a sense 600 projects around the world.
of the structure as part of its surroundings. fuksas.com
This effect is no coincidence. “We believe in the relationship between design and
nature,” explains the team at Plasma Studios. “And Paramount Alma, like many of our NOA (network of architecture)
projects, develops a dialogue with topography and its surroundings.” Accordingly, many With offices in Bolzano, Turin, Milan
features were dictated by the local environment: “The green roof ‘returns’ the green and Berlin, NOA is a collection of
space ‘subtracted’ during the construction, floor-to-ceiling windows bring the landscape boundary-pushing architects who
inside, and the colour code reflects the shades of the autumn forest.” Regionality and have worked on a diverse raft of
sustainability are also fundamental to the project, with local natural materials and artisans projects, including residential spaces,
used for the build, and the introduction of sustainable energy throughout. restaurants hotels and more.
The considerate design continues inside, where the suites enjoy minimalist schemes www.noa.network
in muted shades and a continuation of the local larch wood theme. Large windows allow
light to stream in, while balconies enable guests to commune even more closely with the Peter Pichler Architecture
landscape. Various suite sizes and configurations are available, and guests can choose This award-winning architecture
whether to cater for themselves and enjoy the privacy of their room or take advantage studio in Milan prides itself on its
of the services on offer, from the restaurant and spa to the children’s services offered by dynamic and experimental ethos,
adjacent sister hotel, Family Resort Rainer. and was founded by Peter Pichler and
S. Giuseppe 51, 39030 Moos (BZ), Dolomites www.paramountalma.it Silvana Ordinas in 2015.
peterpichler.eu

The beachside haven Plasma Studio

Plasma Studio is an architecture
Rimini’s I-SUITE HOTEL is a true statement on the seafront. The sinuous white and design practice with worldwide
curves of the exterior are continued inside, offering up a pleasingly bold, scope, working on everything from
futuristic effect. The unconventional design of i-SUITE sets it apart and adds to its furniture design to houses, hotels,
calming, luxurious vibe, with its rounded edges, curated lighting and distinctive cultural projects, and landscape and
urban planning.
white-lime green colour scheme creating a distinctive look.
www.plasmastudio.com
It’s all part of the plan: “to build a place where people could feel good, be surprised and
take back home a pleasant memory of our hotel and city.” It is also why the designers at Renzo Piano Building Workshop
Simone Micheli Architectural Hero (www.simonemicheli.com) were tasked with planning (RPBW)
large, individual rooms that wouldn’t look like standardised spaces, but that presented Perhaps Italy’s best-known modern
originality, and a sense of the warmth that makes a place feel like home. It all adds up to architect, Renzo Piano established
an ultra-modern, minimalist luxury for guests – an effect that’s perhaps most evident in its RPBW in 1981, with offices in Genoa
panoramic spa on the top floor, with its gently curving panoramic window that allows the and Paris. It’s led by 12 partners,
light to stream in and offers unparalleled views across the ocean. including Piano himself, taking on
The hotel sets itself apart from Rimini’s other landmark projects worldwide.
‘Lightness and purity’ offerings. “By creating this hotel I aimed at www.rpbw.com
at the i-SUITE shedding a new light on the hotel sector in my city,”
says architect Giovanni Quadrelli. “…We designed Simone Micheli Architectural Hero
the plan in midair underlining lightness and purity Founded by Micheli in 2003, the studio
by using glass; we used soft colours blinded by the encompasses interior design, exhibit
sun, white rippled walls resembling sinuous dresses design, graphic and communication as
beckoning the guest to follow them. The artificial well as architecture.
lighting as well is instrumental in making the www.simonemicheli.com
experience of the senses even more intense.”
Viale Regina Elena, 28 47921 Rimini - Marina Centro
www.i-suite.it jen_writes_things

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 37

S P E A K I TA L I A !

GAZZETTA ITALIA!
In this edition of our bilingual
feature, Tom Alberto Bull ITALIANO
LO SCUDETTO SUSCITA
reflects on SSC Napoli’s first GIOIA A NAPOLI
Scudetto since the days of
Dopo la morte di Diego Maradona nel 2020 la città di Napoli è caduta in uno stato
Diego Maradona
di lutto collettivo. Erano passati trent’anni da quando l’argentino aveva portato
la squadra alla loro ultima vittoria in Serie A, imprimendosi per sempre nella
coscienza della città. Pitture del mitico giocatore appaiono sui muri in tutta la città
KEY WORDS e lo stadio è stato ribattezzato puntualmente in suo onore.
Useful Italian words and phrases
to add to your vocabulary Oltre all’importanza di vedere uno dei più grandi giocatori del mondo con la maglia
Il lutto collettivo del loro club, è stato anche il modo in cui Maradona ha abbracciato pienamente la
Collective mourning città e il suo popolo che l’ha fatto diventare una figura così emblematica. Chiunque
Il mitico giocatore ha vissuto Napoli saprà come la sua presenza è ancora sentita nella città.
The legendary player
In tutta la città Negli anni successivi alle sue prestazioni nella squadra, la società ha vissuto i
All over the city momenti più difficili, passando un anno in Serie C, prima di risalire per diventare
di nuovo una forza. Tuttavia, nonostante il fatto che sia stato più volte a portata di
Il modo in cui
The way in which mano in questi ultimi anni, lo scudetto continuava a sfuggirgli, dovuto in gran parte
alla dominanza della loro arcirivale, la Juventus. Almeno fino a quest’anno.
Una figura emblematica
An iconic figure
Sin dall’inizio del campionato del 2022-23 il Napoli sembrava una squadra
A portata di mano
indiavolata, vincendo una partita dopo l’altra e aumentando il suo vantaggio in
Within touching distance
cima alla classifica. Con il passare delle settimane la città diventava un immenso
Della loro arcirivale mare di azzurro e si trattava solo di capire quando e non se la festa sarebbe iniziata.
Of their archrival
Una squadra indiavolata Quando finalmente il Napoli si è assicurato lo scudetto con un pareggio con l’Udinese,
A team possessed
tutta la città è esplosa con una potenza paragonabile all’eruzione del Vesuvio. Il
Quando e non se cielo è stato illuminato con fuochi d’artificio, migliaia di tifosi sono scesi nelle piazze
When and not if
maggiori, le strade si sono riempite di motociclette con i clacson che trombavano.
Il cielo è stato illuminato
The sky was lit up La festa è andata avanti per giorni e le immagini sono testimonianza della gioia
Nelle piazze maggiori incontenibile della gente. La passione per la società calcistica permea il tessuto
On the main squares stesso di Napoli, l’umore generale si solleva e si abbassa a seconda dell’esito di ogni
Il tessuto stesso partita. I napoletani rimangono uniti nonostante le differenze politiche e sociali e
The very fabric un forte senso di essere ingiustamente discriminati dal mondo esterno.
Si solleva e si abbassa
Rises and falls Esiste anche un legame diretto tra il successo della squadra e il suo impatto positivo
Un legame diretto sull’economia locale. Le competizioni europee garantiscono il turismo calcistico e
A direct link l’attenzione dei media mette la città sotto una luce positiva. Secondo i napoletani
Un’immagine falsata della loro città veniva data troppo spesso e da troppo tempo un’immagine falsata.
A false image Napoli ha sempre avuto una storia affascinante, ha una tradizione culinaria tra le
migliori del paese. Ora ha anche la migliore squadra di calcio di tutta l’Italia!

38 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 After 33 ye
ars, Napoli
again cham are
pions of It
aly

Diego

ENGLISH
TITLE WIN SPARKS Maradona is
still an icon in The sky lit up with firew
orks
JOY IN NAPLES the city as fans took to the streets

After the death of Diego Maradona in 2020 the city of Naples went into a state of
collective mourning. It had been 30 years since the Argentinian had led the team to
their last Serie A title, forever etching himself into the city’s consciousness. Murals
of the legendary player went up on walls all over the city and the football stadium
was promptly renamed in his honour.

As well as the importance of seeing one of the world’s greatest players wear the
shirt of their club, it was also the way in which Maradona completely embraced the
city and its people that made him such an iconic figure. Anyone who has visited
Naples knows how much his presence is still felt in the city.

In the years following his appearances for the team, the club experienced hard
times, with a year in Serie C, before rising to become a force again. But, although it
has been within touching distance for the last few years, the league title continued
to evade them, largely due to the dominance of their arch rivals Juventus. At least,
until this year.

From the beginning of the 2022-23 season they looked like a team possessed,
securing win after win and extending their lead at the top of the league table. As
the weeks passed by the city became a vast sea of sky blue and it became a question
of when, and not if, the celebrations would begin.
And the party
went on for days!
Having finally secured the league title with a draw at Udinese, the entire city
erupted with the full force of Vesuvius. Fireworks lit up the night sky, thousands
of fans descended on the main squares, motorbikes filled the roads beeping
their horns.

The party continued for days on end and the images of unbridled joy speak for
themselves. The passion for the club runs through the very fabric of Naples; the
collective mood rises and falls with the result of every game. It keeps Neapolitans
united despite political and social differences and in spite of a strong sense of being
unfairly judged by the outside world.

There is also a direct link between the team’s success and a positive impact on the
local economy. European competition brings football tourism and media attention
paints the city in a positive light. Neapolitans felt that too often and for too long
a false image of their city was being created. Naples has always had a fascinating
history, one of the finest culinary traditions in the country. Now they also have the
best football team in Italy!

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 39

 Speak Italian? Speak it better!
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 FA S T C U LT U R E

Most experts agree

that the divers’ leap
is a metaphor for the
moment of death, when
the human soul plunges
into the unknown
waters of the afterlife

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 41

FA S T C U LT U R E

The north wall’s fresco

depicts a symposium

The south wall repeats

the theme of the north

On the east wall a slave On the west wall is a

stands by a krater procession of three figures

42 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 T
here are three great temples On the north and south
Images by Patricia Gartman unless otherwise stated

at Paestum, ancient but walls, a total of ten men

still standing, about twenty are shown reclining on the
miles south of Salerno, on couches, five on each long
the Tyrrhenian coast. They wall. Each has a crown of
are the most obvious remains of a once- laurel, or perhaps olive,
thriving Greek colony called Poseidonia, leaves. They are drinking The lid of the tomb shows, perhaps, the plunge into eternity
named for the Olympian god of the and talking; one is playing
sea, Poseidon. The city’s long history is a flute; a bearded man area often had elaborate paintings
fascinating – but I hope you’ll forgive attempts to caress the head of a youth of human activity, but in a markedly
me if I postpone the story to another sharing his klinē; the youth issues a veto different style from the Greek.)
time, and instead tell you about a curious with a palm-down gesture. The other, and to me more intriguing
mystery you’ll find in the Archaeological On the east wall, a slave stands by a question is: what is the meaning of this
Museum at Paestum, painted on five slabs large krater, in which wine was mixed cycle of paintings? What has the strange,
of limestone. with water. On the west wall, a procession stark painting of the diver have to do
Two of the slabs are about 7 feet long of three figures is seen: a girl playing with the rather mundane party scene on
and 2½ feet wide; two others are about a double flute is followed by a young the tomb walls below it? Etruscan tomb
3¼ feet long and 2½ feet wide; and one man, naked except for a narrow blue paintings often featured the deceased
slab is about 7 feet long and 3¼ feet wide. scarf, or stole, draped loosely over his enjoying favourite pastimes, in hopes they
No doubt you’ve guessed that the stones shoulders. Behind the youth is an older would continue in the afterlife. Ancient
were meant to be assembled together, man wearing a himation, a cloak fastened Greek religion, however, envisioned life
and that the result would be a box with at one shoulder. The naked youth’s hand after death for most people as aimless
a lid. Or rather, to judge by the sizes of
the stones, a tomb.
And indeed, it is a tomb, discovered Guests would recline on couches, drinking
in 1968, during excavations at one of
Poseidonia’s ancient necropoli about a mile
south of the city. In its original location,
wine from shallow cups called kylices
the two long, narrow slabs formed the
north and south sides of the tomb; the is raised, as if saying hello – or goodbye. wandering in the dim mists of Hades,
two short sides were the east and west And then there is the lid… where they nurse their regrets for
walls. The bottom was the floor of a pit, A black outline, like a frame, follows eternity; so ancient Greek tombs were not
and the largest slab was the lid. When the edges of the stone’s plastered surface, decorated with hopeful party scenes.
found, the occupant of the tomb was with decorative palmettes at each of the While searching for an answer, I have
largely dust, but his grave goods were still four corners. The space within the outline read many learned opinions. Most experts
there: a black, decorated lekythos vase is stark white. Two sinuous trees with say the diver’s leap is a metaphor for the
dating from approximately 470BC, and waving branches seem to grow from moment of death, when the soul plunges
a tortoise shell, which once served as the the bottom and the right edges of the into the unknown. Most assume that the
soundboard of a lyre. outline. There is a swelling bulge of diver is the young, naked chap flaunting
blue to indicate water at the bottom as the blue scarf as he dances along behind
SOCIAL OCCASIONS well. Then there is a diving platform the flute girl, waving farewell.
Frescoed on the north and south walls are made of stones, rising beside the water. But was it instead the older man,
scenes of a symposium. In ancient Greece, And there, alone in the empty centre of wearing the himation, walking with
symposia were social occasions, limited the frame, there is a figure: a carefully a staff, who left the party for his
to men (except, sometimes, for hetairai, painted image of a nude, young, athletic appointment with death? Was he weary
courtesans skilled in music, conversation, man, his eyes wide open, plunging of meaningless symposia, and of life?
and perhaps the erotic arts). Sometimes gracefully toward the water. Perhaps he was sceptical of Hades.
the gatherings were devoted to discussion, Perhaps he hoped that when his soul
debate, poetry and other high-minded PAINTED FIGURES took its metaphorical dive, it would
activities; sometimes the symposium There are two mysteries about this tomb. be into the River Lethe, whose waters
was more like a stag party, to judge from The first concerns the painted figures on would provide eternal forgetfulness.
many images on Greek vase decoration. the walls. Humans are depicted on Greek
In either case, they usually took place Attic vases and other ceramics in great ABOUT THE WRITER
in a special room, common in most numbers. However, archaeologists have JOE GARTMAN’s new book, Rome
upper-class residences, called the andron, discovered thousands of Greek burials Through the Mist: Walks among
which was outfitted with long couches that date from about 700 BC to 400 the Fountains of the Eternal City,
called klinai. Guests would recline on BC, and not one of the tombs contained is available from Toplight Books.
See more on Joe’s website at
the couches, drinking wine from shallow, images of people. Except this one.
www.joegartman.com
stemmed cups called kylices. (Lucanian and Etruscan tombs in the

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 43

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

ENERGY AND LIGHT

The new exhibition Edmondo Bacci: Energy and Light at the Peggy Guggenheim Museum
in Venice is the perfect reason to take a walk through time in the American heiress’s
beautiful palazzo, says Rosalind Ormiston

A
t the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, (aka the and Picasso and Braque are part of the permanent collection.
Guggenheim), room after room is decorated with Complementing it now is an outstanding temporary exhibition,
the avant-garde art that collector Marguerite the first retrospective dedicated to Venetian-born Edmondo
‘Peggy’ Guggenheim (1898-1979) purchased Bacci (1913-78), one of Peggy’s favourite Italian artists.
from the 1930s to late 1970s, featuring painters The show explores Bacci’s art of the 1950s, when he met
and sculptors – American, European and Russian – who Peggy Guggenheim and she invested in his work. On display are
were aspiring to, or had achieved, recognition for their art. nearly eighty works, some shown for the first time, including
Works by Rothko, Pollock, Kandinsky, Bacon, Giacometti, unpublished drawings from the Edmondo Bacci archive.

44 ITALIA! August/September 2023

Left: Edmondo
Bacci, Peggy
Guggenheim,
and Tancredi
Parmeggiani
(left to right) at
the Galleria del
Cavallino, Venice,
ca. 1957
On the walls (left to right):
Avvenimento #242 (ca.
1957) and Avvenimento
#235 (ca. 1957). Archivio
Edmondo Bacci, Venice

Top: Bacci was

known as the
artist who
‘revolutionised
colour’. This
untitled piece
was painted with
tempera grassa on
lined paper
Edmondo Bacci Senza
titolo, 1953, Tempera
grassa su carta intelata,
43 x 54.5 cm, Archivio
Edmondo Bacci, Venezia

Right: This later

work was created
using tempera and
charcoal on paper
Edmondo Bacci Senza
titolo, ca. 1962. Tempera e
carboncino su carta, 46 x
63 cm, Archivio Edmondo
Bacci, Venezia

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 45

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

A group of works in the Avvenimento series on

display includes Avvenimento #13R (Incident #13R),
1953, purchased the same year by Alfred H. Barr Jr,
(1902-81), the first director of the Museum of Modern
Art (MoMA) in New York. It returns to Venice for the
first time for this show. The series – many are displayed
– was created at the peak of Bacci’s experimental art.

ABSTRACT PAINTINGS
Edmondo Bacci’s stunning abstract paintings bring
to mind the colourful art of the Russian artist Vasily
Kandinsky (1866-1944), born in Moscow, working in
Paris, whom he much admired. Bacci was already an
established, respected painter when he met Peggy in
the mid-1950s. From 1932-37 he had studied with the
renowned artists Ettore Tito (1859-1941) of Naples, and
Virgilio Guidi (1891-1984) of Rome, at the Accademia
di Belle Arti in Venice.
Bacci’s first solo exhibition was held in 1945 at is another matter. They are children of today. They are
Below:
the Galleria del Cavallin and in 1948 he participated, dynamic. They are the atomic bomb on canvas. They
Avvenimento #13R
for the first of many times, in the Venice Biennale. burst with light energy and color. Each new one is more was purchased for
Bacci was involved too in the Movimento Spazialismo vital than the last. […] There is foresight in his color as it the Museum of
(Spatialism Movement) initiated in 1947 by explodes in its joyous intoxication. I believe it is today the Modern Art in New
Argentine-born Italian artist Lucio Fontana (1899- purest color let free in space […]’ 1. York – the work
1968). Fontana’s aim was to create a fusion of time and This personal introduction, handwritten on A4 returns to Venice
space in colour and movement. This materialises in paper in green ink by Peggy, is on display in the for the first time
for this show
abstracts that puncture the spatial surface. exhibition. So too are photographs of her at home in Edmondo Bacci,
For the catalogue of the 1958 Venice Biennale, the villa with Bacci’s paintings on the walls. Seeing the Avvenimento #13R
(Avvenimento plastico),
Peggy wrote an introduction to Bacci: “…He is my paintings and photographs connects the villa’s past and 1953, tempera grassa on
Venetian neighbour… I meet him almost daily. …Our the lifestyle of the heiress with the newness of post- canvas, 83.1 x 142.9 cm.
Museum of Modern Art,
greetings are formal but friendly…but his paintings, that war contemporary art. Peggy took advice from her New York

Peggy Guggenheim, Introduzione, in Catalogo della XXIX Biennale Internazionale d’Arte di Venezia
(Venice: Ente Autonomo La Biennale di Venezia, 1958), pp. 67–68.
1

46 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 Far left: Two
works from the
Avvenimento series
can be seen in this
photo of the gallery
© Edmondo Bacci:
Energy and Light, April
1 to September 18,
2023. Collezione Peggy
Guggenheim. Photo Matteo
De Fina

Above: Peggy
Guggenheim at
Palazzo Venier
dei Leoni, Venice,
1956. She had
bought the
property in 1949
and quickly set
about converting
it into a showroom
for her growing art
collection
On the wall (centre):
Avvenimento #247
(1956). Photo Archivio
Cameraphoto Epoche,
Solomon R. Guggenheim
Foundation, Gift, Cassa di
Risparmio di Venezia, 2005

Left: The work from

the Avvenimento
series that can be
seen in the image
above displayed
on the wall behind
Peggy Guggenheim
Edmondo Bacci,
Avvenimento #247, 1956
Tempera grassa e sabbia su
tela, 140.2 x 140 cm,
Collezione Peggy
Guggenheim, Venezia
(Fondazione Solomon R.
Guggenheim, New York)

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 47

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

friend, the French-born avant-garde artist and sculptor

Marcel Duchamp (1887-1968), who guided her on which
painters and sculptors to invest in, which works to buy.
The Venice Biennale extract reveals how Peggy
valued the art of the painter, seeking what made
each work different, remarkable. She called Bacci’s
artworks ‘events’ and cherished the originality and
unpredictability of the explosive colour, bursting
onto the canvas. Guggenheim appreciated the purity,
sensitivity, and conflict that his paintings revealed,
excited by what he would produce next.
At the exhibition is an historic black and white film
showing Peggy Guggenheim in the Venice studio of
Bacci. She is holding one of her small dogs in her arms
and talks to the painter as he creates a work in front of
her. She is fascinated. He explains his technique and at
one point asks her to step back to avoid being splashed
as he shakes the flat canvas to disperse the splodges of
wet paint.

PATRICIAN FAMILIES
While Peggy was not initially accepted into the heart
of the patrician families of the city, she nonetheless
wowed Venetians with her remarkable art collection.
In 1949, while staying at the Hotel Danieli, she

Above: Peggy
Guggenheim on the
steps of the Grand
Canal terrace,
on the occasion
of the first show
she organised at
Palazzo Venier
dei Leoni, Mostra
di Scultura
Contemporanea,
Venice, September
1949
Photo Archivio
Cameraphoto Epoche.
Solomon R. Guggenheim
Foundation, Venice, Gift,
Cassa di Risparmio di
Venezia, 2005

Left: Peggy
Guggenheim at
Palazzo Venier
dei Leoni, Venice,
1960s. Behind
her, on the
wall, Tancredi
Parmeggiani,
Composition
(Composizione,
1957), Peggy
Guggenheim
Collection
Photo Archivio
Cameraphoto Epoche.
Solomon R. Guggenheim
Foundation, Venice, Gift,
Cassa di Risparmio di
Venezia, 2005

48 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 purchased a Venetian property, the 1748 unfinished
Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, situated on the Grand Canal.
Find out more
Its name refers to the rumour that the first owners, the In 1947 Peggy Guggenheim
Venetian aristocratic Veniers, allowed lions to roam decided to reside in Venice,
in the vast rear gardens. Eighteen stone lion heads and was invited to exhibit her
adorned the front entrance. collection of contemporary art
The villa, unusual in having only one floor, passed at the 1948 Venice Biennale.
through different families until Guggenheim chose it Her collection was displayed
to be her permanent home and art gallery. Her flat- in the Greek pavilion as that
roof residence in Venice – now the museum – became country was in the midst of
a focus for modern art. A photograph of her, taken in civil war and unable to attend.
September 1949 on the steps of the palazzo leading Thus, the works of artists
to the Grand Canal, where she had her own gondola Above: Edmondo Below: Untitled such as Jackson Pollock and
Bacci photographed work created in
and gondolier, shows the poster for her first exhibition Mark Rothko were exhibited in
while working paperboard and
being advertised, Mostra di Scultura Contemporanea. in his studio in tempera on panel
Europe for the first time. From
Over seventy years later, in Edmondo Bacci: Energy Venice, 1961 Edmondo Bacci Senza the 1930s until her death in
and Light, Peggy Guggenheim gives the most forceful On the easel, Untitled (ca.
titolo, 1956, Cartoncino
e tempera su tavola, 78 x
1979, Guggenheim made it
reason for this Bacci retrospective on display in her 1957); against the right-
end wall, Avvenimento
78 cm, Collezione privata, her quest to buy a work of art
Venezia
home. Writing about him she reminds us that in #316 (Omaggio a Gagarin) every day.
(1958), Avvenimento
viewing his work “There is nothing that is superfluous, #328 (ca. 1959). Archivio Bottom: Work from
but, as in every work that is strongly aesthetic, he is Edmondo Bacci, Venice
the Avvenimento The exhibition
simple tense alive. For him color is a conflict of power Below left:
series in tempera Edmondo Bacci:
and his material lives by his tension, it is sensitive and grassa and sand on Energy and Light
Edmondo Bacci in canvas
luminous” 2. Her words define why it is so special to see his Venice studio, Edmondo Bacci
1 April - 18 September 2023,
his work, giving an excellent reason to visit the Peggy at some time in the Avvenimento #299, 1958, Peggy Guggenheim Museum,
Tempera grassa e sabbia
Guggenheim Museum when in you are Venice. early 1960s su tela, 140 x 140 cm, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni
Behind him: Avvenimento
#382 (1961). Archivio
Palm Springs Art Museum, Dorsoduro, 701 – 30123 Venice
Donazione Estate of
rosalind.ormiston Edmondo Bacci, Venice Seymour Oppenheimer www.guggenheim-venice.it

Catalogue
Edmondo Bacci: Energy and
Light, edited by Chiara Bertola
(Marsilio Editore, s.pa. Venice,
2023)

Visiting the museum

The Guggenheim Museum
on the Dorsoduro is the top
visitor attraction in Venice. It
is advisable to book a timeslot
online in advance but some
tickets are usually available
for those who arrive at the
museum on the day. For visitors
to the gallery, at 11.45am, and
again at 3.30pm, there is a free
15-minute presentation on
the life of Peggy Guggenheim.
Peggy Guggenheim (Bacci, [Venice: Edizioni del Cavallino,
1958 Autonomo La Biennale di Venezia, 1958), pp. 67–68.

Amongst the beautiful garden

spaces and terraces there is a
café-restaurant in the museum
plus a bookshop and gift shop.

Getting there
Nearest vaporetto stops:
Accademia or Salute.
Rosalind stayed at the
Hilton Molino Stucky
www.hilton.com
2

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 49

Image © Photographic Archive of the Marche Region D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

SEA AND
MOUNTAINS
of the east
Our Top 10 guide to the region of Le Marche

Tuscany? Nearby Le Marche has everything you

could possibly want and more, says Jane Keightley

50 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 The rolling hills of
upland Le Marche

A
lthough not as popular with tourists as neighbouring Tuscany and
Umbria, Le Marche is blessed with beautiful hill towns as far as the
eye can see. With the soaring peaks of the Sibillini Mountains on one
side and the beaches of the Conero and Palm Riviera on the other, it
also has two historic cities which are a must to visit: the ducal city of
Urbino and beautiful Ascoli Piceno down in the south of the region.
Ancona, its capital, is a port city on the Riviera del Conero, an area full of sandy
coves, limestone cliffs and medieval villages; and Pesaro, another coastal town, is
the birthplace of the opera composer Gioachino Rossini. The area is not bursting
with tourists – and that is a large part of its charm. Read on to find out why Le
Marche is the perfect region for a peaceful getaway.

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 51

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

1 Explore the ducal city of Urbino

URBINO IS ONE OF ITALY’S MOST PERFECT RENAISSANCE TOWNS and the
huge Palazzo Ducale dominates the surrounding landscape. As you walk around the town it’s as
if you have stepped back in time as the historical centre has changed little since the 16th century.
Courtyard at the
It has also been a centre for learning and culture since 1507 and today students outnumber other
Palazzo Ducale
inhabitants of the town. A tour around the Palazzo is a must and includes the National Gallery
of Le Marche, where you can see paintings by Piero della Francesca, Bellini and Raphael.

Urbino, a perfect
Renaissance gem

2 Wander around the Frasassi Caves

THE GROTTE DI FRASASSI are some of
the most spectacular caves in the world. Only
discovered in 1971, they are actually 1,400,000
years old. It was a combination of sulphur and
water which eroded the rock to create the
cave system and the water here is rich in
minerals, which creates stalagmites and
stalactites that grow at a rate of one
or two millimetres a year. The most This image and top right image © Photographic Archive of the Marche Region
spectacular part of the cave complex
is the huge Grotta Grande del
Vento, which is 200 metres high,
165 metres long and 110 metres
wide. Thirty kilometres of the
caves have been explored so
far and a walkway has been
constructed through five of
its caverns.

Sulphur and water at

the Frasassi Caves

52 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 3 The Joust of the Quintana QUIRKY MUSEUMS TO VISIT
THE PAPER AND WATERMARK MUSEUM
TWICE A YEAR, in July and August, the people of Largo Fratelli Spacca, 2 – Fabriano
Ascoli Piceno dress up in medieval costumes inspired by www.museodellacarta.com
the ones in Carlo Crivelli’s polyptych in the cathedral to Find out about the history of 700 years
celebrate the Joust of the Quintana. The rules, set down of paper making in the area in a former
in 1378, state that one knight from each of the city’s six Drummers of
Dominican convent.
districts competes by riding around the field in a figure Ascoli Piceno THE SHELL MUSEUM
of eight before trying to hit the centre of the shield of a Via Adriatica Nord, 240 – Cupra Marittima
puppet called the Moro with a lance. Each knight gets www.malacologica.org
three turns and is judged for speed and accuracy. Before the Joust begins there are A fascinating museum showcasing shells
many processions around the town with the obligatory flag wavers and drummers. and fossils. It also has a curious section
devoted to sharks!

4 Discover the tiled piazza of Ascoli Piceno THE CARICATURE MUSEUM

Palazzo Sangallo, Tolentino
www.turismo.marche.it

Image by Jane Keightley

Housed in the Palazzo Sangallo in
the main square of Tolentino, the
International Museum of the Caricature is
full of books, newspapers and historical
documents and over 3,000 work such as
cuts, paintings and sculptures.
ACCORDION MUSEUM
Ascoli Piceno’s
Via Ciricao Mordini, 1 – Castelfidardo
Piazza del Popolo
www.comune.castelfidardo.an.it
This interesting museum is housed in
ITALY IS FAMOUS FOR ITS AMAZING SQUARES and piazzas but the Piazza del the 17th-century Palazzo Comunale in
Popolo in Ascoli Piceno literally does take your breath away when you walk into it. The Castelfidardo and celebrates one of the
travertine tiles that the Piazza is tiled with positively gleam and it is full of stylish shops and most popular instruments in Italy. This
cafés. It is the ideal spot for people watching, and what better place to do this than at the art area was the accordion-making centre
deco Caffè Meletti, founded in 1907 and famous for its Anisetta liqueur. In Ascoli Piceno and they have a festival dedicated to the
there are three important buildings to look out for which represent the three powers of the musical instrument in October.
time: political with the Captain’s Palace, religious with the Church of San Francesco and MUSEI CIVICI DI PALAZZO
commercial with the Merchants’ Lodge. If you can tear yourself away from this beautiful piazza BUONACCORSI
the rest of Ascoli is well worth exploring too. Via Don Giovanni Minzoni, 24 – Macerata
www.comune.macerata.it
A museum with a fascinating selection
5 Meander around the streets of hill towns… of 14th to 18th-century art with a
smattering of modern art and a carriage
WHEN IT COMES TO PICTURESQUE HILL TOWNS Le Marche certainly museum thrown in for good measure.
has a wonderful selection. One of the most interesting is Offida, which is famous for
CC BY-SA 2.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

its lace making. As you approach the entrance to the old part of the town there is a
bronze monument which shows three generations of lace makers. Then
as you walk along the main street you pass real life lace
makers in their doorways busy working on their small
Lace maker
wooden bobbins. Reaching the main Piazza, which is
in Offida
Image by Roberto Ferrari from Campogalliano (Modena), Italy,

triangular, you can admire the Palazzo Comunale, one of

the most beautiful town halls in Le Marche. Before you
leave, visit the Lace Museum, where one of the exhibits
is a lace dress made for Naomi Campbell to wear at a
fashion show in London. Another interesting hill town is
Ripatransone, which is known as the Balcony of Piceno
as you can gaze out towards the Adriatic and inland
Image by Jane Keightley

towards the mountains. Its centro storico boasts buildings

dating back to the Middle Ages, Renaissance and Baroque
times, but it is best known for having “the narrowest street Italy’s narrowest
in Italy”. At 43 centimetres wide, it’s just an alley really, alley (perhaps)
but it attracts visitors who enjoy posing for a photograph
squeezed tightly between its walls.

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 53

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

6 Enjoy the peace of the Parco del Conero

The beaches of Conero are
rarely over-crowded

NOT FAR FROM THE BUSTLING STREETS of

Ancona you can find the Parco del Conero, a peaceful
area where the hills meet the sea. It’s a perfect place for
walking, bird watching and just enjoying the beautiful
beaches. The main towns are Portonovo, Sirolo and
Numana, where there is a great selection of seafood
on offer. If you are feeling energetic you can hire
bikes and boats or go windsurfing.

Image © Photographic Archive of the Marche Region

7 Sample local delicacies… 8 Enjoy sensational scenery…
IN APRIL ONE OF THE HIGHEST PARTS of the Apennines,
EVERY YEAR the Monti Sibillini National Park is home to boar, wolves
Fritto misto in the centro storico and bears – and tales of witchcraft and sorcery abound.
Ascoli Piceno

Image by Sashimov, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

of Ascoli hosts Indeed, the Lago di Pilato (the Lake of Pontius Pilate) is
the Fritto Misto said to contain his body. It is said that he drowned here.
all’Italiana, a There is a rare freshwater crayfish here which occasionally
huge celebration turns the water red, adding to the mythology of the lake.
of fried food. In the area around Castelluccio (in the park, but over the
Delicacies border in Umbria), the mountains are covered with wild
on offer are flowers in late May and there are 50 types of wild orchid.
stuffed olives,
Sicilian cartocci,
and Puglian
panzerotti, all
washed down
with craft beers and
local wines. Ascoli’s own
fried speciality is olive
ascolane ripiene (aka
olive all’ascolana) – olives
stuffed with meat and
surrounded by a crisp
Olive breaded crust. These are
ascolane ripiene often eaten as snacks to
Is this the final resting
nibble on while waiting place of Pontius Pilate?
for your main meal.

54 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 9 Laze around on the Palm Riviera WHERE TO STAY
HOTEL BELCOMBE
THE ADRIATIC COAST Via della Mura, 28 – Urbino
in southern Le Marche is www.viphotels.it/hotel/hotelbelconte
aptly named the Riviera delle This hotel in Urbino, which is
Palme after its thousands conveniently located only five minutes’
of palm trees. One of its walk from the Palazzo Ducale, has a
most interesting resorts is beautiful garden and magnificent views
Grottammare, a surprisingly over the surrounding countryside.
arty place. Known as the Pearl HOTEL FORTINO NAPOLEONICO
of the Adriatic, it was beloved Via Poggio, 166 – Portonovo
of Franz Liszt and now every www.fortinonapoleonico.com
August the Festival Liszt brings Fancy spending your holiday in a military
together pianists from all over fortress? Or at least a place that used to
the world. The town is split in be one? Then this is the hotel for you on
two, with Grottammare Alta, the beach front at Portonovo.
the medieval town, overlooking FORESTERIA FILODIVINO
the smart beach resort of From high WINE RESORT AND SPA
Grottammare Bassa. The old to low in Via Serra , 46 – San Marcello
town is included in the list of Grottammare www.filodivino.it
Borghi più belli d’Italia (Italy’s The Foresteria Filodivino is a wine resort
most beautiful villages). Along and spa where you can learn about
the waterfront you can enjoy a winemaking and relax in the middle of
selection of gardens, Liberty villas and sculptures, including the bronze Metamorfosi with the beautiful Le Marche countryside.
JFK’s profile by Pericle Fazzini. You can also visit the Museo dell’Illustrazione Comica, CASTELLO DI GRANAROLA
where they have a collection of 300 humorous and satirical posters and original cartoons. Via Castello, 1 – Gradara
www.castellodigranarola.it
This beautiful hotel situated next to the
10 Make a pilgrimage to Loreto Adriatic Sea is absolutely full of history.
The Romans used the castle’s caves
ON A HILL TOP SOUTH OF ANCONA, to store their corn. Relax in peaceful
Loreto is dominated by the domed Basilica surroundings and enjoy the experience
La Basilica della of being surrounded by objects created
della Santa Casa. This majestic building is
Santa Casa by local artisans.
one of Italy’s most celebrated pilgrimage sites.
Inside is the Santa Casa di Loreto, a tiny brick HISTORIC HOTEL MARCHESE
house which is said to be where the Virgin DEL GRILLO
Mary grew up. According to legend, a host of Localita Rochetta Bassa, 73 – Fabriano
angels brought the house from Nazareth in www.marchesedelgrillo.com
1294 after the Crusaders were expelled from A beautiful and luxurious hotel with
Palestine. Interestingly, in more modern times a fascinating history near the Frasassi
archaeologists have studied it and have found caves and Fabriano, which is famous
for its paper making.
that the materials in the Santa Casa are the
same as in the Grotto of the PALAZZO DEI MERCANTI
Annunciation in Nazareth. Corso Trento and Trieste, 35
Ascoli Piceno
www.palazzodeimercanti.it
The pilgrimage
The Merchants’ Palace is a historic hotel
town of Loreto
situated in the centre of Ascoli Piceno in
a building that has been converted from
an old convent.

GETTING THERE
➤ Ryanair flies to the capital of Le
Marche, Ancona, and to Pescara in
neighbouring Abruzzo. It is best to hire
a car to fully appreciate the beautiful
countryside of Le Marche.

mrskeatsherwayarounditaly

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 55

P A S T I TA L I A !

RICCHI
E POVERI
Formed in Genoa in 1967, this
evergreen Italian pop group has since
sold more than 20 million records

T
hey have been around for as long
as most people can remember and
represented Italy at Eurovision 1978
with Questo Amore (This Love). But their
biggest hit came in 1981 with Sarà perché ti
amo (That’ll be because I love you), which was
huge that summer and has become something
of an anthem since, in its Spanish translation,
and also with supporters of AC Milan. Marina
(the blonde one) went solo in 1981 – just before
Sarà perché ti amo – and Franco (the dark-haired
one) retired in 2016, but they all reunited for a
truly storming San Remo performance in 2020.
Sadly, Franco passed away last October.

56 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 Image © Alamy

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 57

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 Taste
You’ll enjoy recipes from the Amalfi Coast, alcohol-free
drinks and wine, Italian picnic food and more!

Cook
Amalfi Summer
Fresh flavours from
the sunshine coast

p 60
New series!
Iconic ingredients
four ways: this issue, it,s rice

p 64
Friday Night Supper
Italian-inspired crowd pleasers

p70

Buy
Jars and pickles for picnics

p 68
Make the most of
courgette season

Drink
16 pages Summer drinks from Italy
of delicious
Italian food p73
and drink

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 59

Photography by Nassima Rothacker C O O K I TA L I A !

For an authentic taste of the Amalfi Coast,

Ursula Ferrigno brings you these summery dishes

60 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 Blue fish
wrapped in
courgette
flowers
Pesce serra ai
fiori di zucca
SERVES 6
PREPARATION 30 minutes
COOKING 10 minutes

This is a recipe for late spring or

early summer. It is bright in colour,
very dramatic when presented at the
table, and full of simple, good
flavours. Courgette blossoms should
be available to buy at your local
greengrocer or, better still, grow
them yourself if you can.

Bright in colour, very •

•
8 medium courgettes, trimmed
675g fish steaks, 2.5cm thick,
dramatic, and full of simple, skin removed (tuna will do)
good flavours • sea salt and freshly ground
black pepper
• 24 courgette blossoms
• 1 large free-range egg, beaten
• 60ml olive oil
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• 175ml dry white wine

1 Slice half the courgettes

Tomato and olive tarts lengthways, 2 mm thick, using a

large chef’s knife. You want 24

Torte salate di pomodori e olive

slices. Grate the remainder.
2 Fill a large pan with water, bring to
the boil and add salt. Blanch the
MAKES 6 individual tarts 1 For the pastry, put everything into a food processor courgette slices in the boiling water
PREPARATION 10 minutes, plus 30 minutes resting and pulse briefly until the mixture comes together. for 2 minutes, or until flexible.
BAKING 20 minutes Put the pastry on a floured surface and bring it 3 Cut the fish into 24 pieces about
together in a large lump. Divide into 6 individual 6cm long and 1cm wide and season
These polenta crust pizzas are delicious, crunchy and pieces. Flatten a little, wrap and rest in the fridge for with salt and pepper.
easy – and very impressive visually. A perfect snack, 30 minutes. 4 Ease the courgette blossoms open
especially if you are short on time. 2 Meanwhile, drain the canned tomatoes through a and remove the stamens. Rinse
sieve over a basin, keeping the juice for a drink, then them under cold water and pat dry
• 180g Italian ‘00’ flour, plus extra for dusting chop the drained tomatoes. Preheat the oven to with paper towels. Brush the inside
• 80g polenta/cornmeal 200°C/Gas Mark 6. of each with beaten egg and wrap it
• 105g cold, unsalted butter 3 When the dough is chilled, roll out circles on a lengthways around a piece of fish.
• 105g ricotta floured surface to 3mm thick (the dough is rustic 5 Heat the olive oil in a large sauté
• 1 large free-range egg yolk around the edges). Top each circle with some drained pan over a medium heat. Add the
FOR THE TOPPING tomatoes, chopped cherry tomatoes and season well. grated courgette, garlic and wine
• 400g can plum tomatoes Add the thyme and oregano and crumble over some and boil briskly for 2 minutes.
• 12-16 cherry tomatoes, quartered goats’ cheese. Dot with olives and drizzle with a little Season with salt and pepper.
• sea salt and freshly ground black pepper olive oil. 6 Wrap a slice of blanched courgette
• 1 tbsp chopped fresh thyme leaves 4 Bake in the preheated oven for 20 minutes, garnish around the centre of each piece of
• 1 tbsp chopped fresh oregano with basil and devour. fish, then arrange the fish parcels
• 200g goats’ cheese on top of the shredded courgette in
• handful of black olives, stoned TIP Once you have perfected your polenta crust pizza the pan. Cover the pan and cook for
• extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling base you can experiment with different toppings. 7-10 minutes, or until the fish is
• fresh basil leaves, to garnish Just make sure you leave the pineapple out of it! cooked through.

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 61

C O O K I TA L I A !

Italian whispers
Soffiatini
MAKES 6
PREPARATION 1 hour
BAKING 12 minutes

It is such a pleasure to make all the

elements for this dish, which can be
made in advance – always a help for our
busy lives. This recipe is indicative of
the passion for greens in Campania and
is also a celebration of mozzarella.

FOR THE FILLING

• 75g unsalted butter

• 75g Italian ‘00’ flour

• 200ml milk

• 100g cooked spinach, chopped

• 1 tsp freshly grated nutmeg

This recipe is indicative of the
• sea salt and freshly ground passion for greens in Campania and
black pepper
• generous handful of fresh flat-leaf
is also a celebration of mozzarella
parsley, chopped
• 100g buffalo mozzarella, diced

• 75g Parma ham, shredded

• 50g grated parmesan cheese, plus

extra for topping

• 2 medium free-range egg whites,

whisked until foamy

FOR THE PANCAKE BATTER

Drunken strawberry and almond tart

• 90g Italian ‘00’ flour

• 150ml milk

Torta ubriaca alle fragole e mandorle

• 2 large free-range eggs, beaten

• a little melted unsalted butter, for frying

1 To make the filling, melt the butter in a SERVES 8-10 PREPARATION 10 minutes, plus macerating and chilling BAKING 40 minutes
saucepan over a medium heat, add the flour
and cook for 1 minute to make a roux. Remove Paestum, on the eastern edge of the Amalfi Coast (you can take a Sita bus there, south of
from the heat and leave to cool. Salerno), is famous for its Greek temples, buffalo mozzarella and strawberries. This is where this
2 In a second pan, bring the milk to the boil. Add fine recipe originates. Strawberries in this region are magnificent. This recipe is not quite a tart
this to the roux and cook over a medium heat nor a cake but the best of both worlds. So utterly moreish and always, always so well received.
until the sauce has thickened, stirring Make this in a 25cm loose-bottomed tart tin.
constantly. Add the spinach, nutmeg and a
pinch of salt and cook for 1 more minute. Fold in • 500g strawberries, hulled and halved • 50g Italian ‘00’ flour
the remaining ingredients and leave to cool. • 2 tbsp strawberry liqueur or Grand Marnier • 1½ tsp baking powder
3 To make the pancake batter, mix the flour and • 6 large free-range egg yolks (make sure you • 250g ground almonds (ideally freshly
milk in a bowl or jug, add the eggs with a pinch use the whites for other recipes), plus 1 for ground)
of salt and mix well with a whisk. glazing • 200g caster sugar
4 Brush a 30cm heavy frying pan with melted • 1 tsp vanilla extract • grated zest of 2 unwaxed lemons
butter and set over a medium heat. Pour a small • 1 tsp almond extract • 200g unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing
ladleful of pancake batter into the pan and tilt
the pan to make a thin pancake. Cook for about 1 Place the strawberries in a bowl and pour over the liqueur. Chill and macerate for a least 1 hour.
4 minutes on each side. Repeat with the 2 Grease and line the base of the tart tin with baking paper. Mix 6 of the egg yolks and the extracts
remaining batter to make 6 pancakes in total. together in a small bowl.
5 Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6. Brush 3 Put the flour, baking powder, ground almonds, caster sugar and lemon zest in a food processor and
a greased, high-sided baking sheet with the mix to combine. Pour in the eggs and add the butter and mix together again. The mixture should be
melted unsalted butter. thick and creamy, but please don’t over-process.
6 Put a spoonful of filling in the centre of each 4 Pour the batter into the prepared tart tin, level the surface with a palette knife and chill in the
pancake. Fold over two edges to meet in the fridge for 20 minutes. Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6. Beat the remaining egg yolk and
centre, then fold over the other two edges, brush over the surface. Use a fork to make long squiggles on top.
making a parcel. Place the pancake parcels on 5 Bake in the preheated oven for 12 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 and
the prepared baking sheet, sprinkle with bake for a further 20-30 minutes until golden. Leave to cool in the tin for 15 minutes, then remove
parmesan cheese and bake for 12 minutes. and cool completely.

62 ITALIA! August/September 2023

So utt erly moreish and
always, always so well
received

These recipes are

from Cucina di
Amalfi by Ursula
Ferrigno, published
by Ryland Peters &
Small (£20).
Photography by
Nassima Rothacker
© Ryland Peters &
Small

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 63

 C O O K I TA L I A !

Courgette
flower &

RICE
gorgonzola
risotto

A taste of Italy for at least five hundred years,

rice is consumed in quantity in the north.
Mario Matassa provides some inspiration.

Y
ou could say that
Text, images and recipes by Mario Matassa
rice is, to Italians,
a second pasta.
By that I mean
Mediterranean that if an Italian
rice salad is not sitting down at lunch to
a steaming bowl of pasta, then
they’re probably eating rice. And
when they do so, it is always the
star of the show. The idea of
eating heaped tablespoons of rice
as a side is anathema to Italians.
Today, Italians eat on average
between 5-6 kilos of rice per capita per year, with roughly
one family in three eating rice two to three times a week.
Rice cakes However, the figures are significantly biased to the Piedmont
with and Lombardy regions in the north, where most of Italy’s
mozzarella & rice is produced and where the population is estimated to eat
tomato approximately 55 per cent of Italy’s rice.
This should not come as any surprise as Italy is the largest
producer of rice in Europe, accounting for just over 50 per cent
of total production. The main varieties of rice cultivated in Italy
today are subdivided into four categories: comune, semifino,
fino and superfino. The first, a native variety, is used mainly for
various desserts, fritters and for the highly popular arancini
balls. Among the superfini varieties of rice, arborio and canaroli
are considered the best.
The popularity of this staple in Italy, I would suggest, lies
in part in its versatility. Like pasta, whatever the season, little
effort is had in finding the perfect accompaniment. In addition,
its popularity stems from the culinary genius of the Italians
in inventing both a unique method for cooking rice and, at
the same time, adapting a strain of rice perfectly suited to this
method. It was, in short, a match made in culinary heaven.
Risotto is now known and enjoyed throughout the world.
Rice pudding With risotto, accompaniments such as vegetables, spices, meat
with almonds or fish are intended to enhance the flavour of the rice. They are
& raisins never more than that. As I said above, rice in Italy when cooked
is always the star of the show. Yet, as popular as risotto is in Italy,
and has become so worldwide, it is only one rice dish in Italy’s
pastastories broad culinary armoury. The versatility of rice is such that a

64 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 The versatility of rice is
such that a suitable dish
can be found to suit
every occasion

Different rices serve

different purposes

suitable dish can be found to suit every occasion, be it a main use a rice labelled ‘parboiled’, made specifically for the purpose.
course, as a stuffing for roasts and vegetables, as a substitute for American long-grained rice is equally suited.
pasta in a bowl of minestrone, cooked and refried as fritters as a The following variation is a personal favourite. It takes full
light lunch or a snack, baked in pies, eaten cold in salads over the advantage of the glut of Mediterranean vegetables over the
summer months and, of course, as a dessert, be it an ingredient summer. Feel free however to play about with the ingredients
in cakes, cooked with fruit in a risotto or as a simple pudding. and add fresh herbs such as oregano and basil.
And, as proof of the pudding, here are four takes that show why,
whatever the occasion, rice will always be considered an essential
store cupboard ingredient in every Italian household.
Rice cakes with mozzarella and tomato
Okay, if you form the exact same ingredients set out here into
Courgette flower and gorgonzola risotto a ball, then arancini is the word you’ll be looking for. But while
working the lunch menu in restaurants here in the north, we
There are no shortcuts for making a good risotto. Good quality more often formed leftover rice into patties, which were then
homemade stock makes the world of difference, as does a good breaded, pan-fried and listed as crocchette on the menu. But
quality variety of rice. The dish has to be cooked slowly and it whatever you want to call them, or whatever shape you want to
requires constant attention. The stages of cooking a risotto are as form, the next time you make a risotto this is as good an excuse
follows. First is the tostatura where the rice is coated in butter or as any to make that little bit extra. Crocchette make the perfect
oil, usually with chopped onion. Stock is then added gradually light lunch menu or snack and everyone loves them!
and the rice is stirred slowly. About five minutes before the end, I must stress that the success of this dish relies on using
butter and or grated parmesan is added, the heat is turned off cooked risotto rice. Its sticky consistency is perfect for holding
and the rice is left to rest. If your timing has been right, by the the shape of the patty. The size of the patty is entirely up to you.
end of this resting period the rice should be perfectly cooked, You could make small bite-sized patties to serve with an aperitivo
tender yet still firm. A final knob of butter or olive oil is added (the size of a large walnut) or, as I prefer, larger patties to serve
just before serving. with a salad for a light delicious lunch.

Mediterranean rice salad Rice pudding with almonds and raisins

Rice salad has been described as the caposaldo, ‘cornerstone’, To all intents and purpose, this dessert sits somewhere between
of Italian summer cuisine. Whilst a risotto is the birthright of a crème brûlée and a classic rice pudding, with an Italian flavour.
every Italian throughout the autumn, winter and spring months, It’s comfort food at its very best and it can be made well in
this custom gives way (to a point) to a cold rice salad for the advance. Italian arborio rice is perfect for this dish as the high
duration of the summer. starch content helps to thicken the sauce and ensures a creamy
Every Italian has an opinion about what makes for a good consistency to the finished dish. I’ve used raisins and almonds in
rice salad and there are as many variations on the recipe as there this recipe but it works equally well with other dried fruits. Also,
are grains of rice in a very large bowl! But we are agreed that it’s I’ve added a crunchy caramelised sugar topping, but this final
better not to use risotto rice for this. It’s too sticky. In Italy we step is entirely optional.

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 65

C O O K I TA L I A !

Courgette flower and Mediterranean rice salad

gorgonzola risotto Insalata di riso
Risotto ai fiori di zucca e SERVES 4

gorgonzola PREPARATION 15 minutes

COOKING 10-15 minutes

SERVES 4 • 300g rice • 3 tbsp capers in olive oil

PREPARATION 10 minutes • 1 large red onion • 200g bocconcini di
COOKING 15-17 minutes • 1 large red pepper mozzarella
• 1 large yellow pepper • bunch of fresh parsley,
• olive oil • 2 medium sized courgettes chopped
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped • 1 large aubergine • 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
• 300g risotto rice • 6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • salt and pepper
• 750ml-1 litre vegetable stock
• About 10-12 courgette flowers (or pumpkin) 1 Boil the rice in plenty of salted water until tender and then drain
• 150g gorgonzola cheese and rinse under cold water to halt the cooking process. Set the rice
• salt and pepper aside to cool.
2 While the rice is cooking, finely chop the onion, peppers, courgettes
1 Place 2 tbsp olive oil in a large heavy based frying pan, add the and aubergine. Add a couple of tablespoons of olive oil to a large
onion and cook gently for a few minutes. Once the onions begin to heavy-based pan and heat. Add the vegetables, season well with
soften, add the rice. Stir the rice well in the oil to ensure that each salt and pepper and stir. Cook the vegetables until soft and tender.
grain of rice is coated. You might need to add a few tablespoons of water to create some
2 Next add a ladleful of stock to the rice and stir until absorbed. Keep steam and help the process.
adding a ladleful of stock and stirring until the rice has been 3 Once cooked, transfer the vegetables to a large bowl and add the
cooking for 10 minutes. At this point add the courgette flowers and rice and the capers. Mix well and allow to cool for a few minutes
stir them in. Continue adding stock until the rice is cooked. This before adding the mozzarella balls.
should take about 15-17 minutes depending on what type of risotto 4 To finish, add the chopped parsley, a good drizzle of olive oil and
rice is used. the balsamic vinegar. Give everything a good mix and serve.
3 Once the rice is cooked add the chopped gorgonzola cheese and stir
through. Check for seasoning, let the rice rest for just a few minutes
and add a good drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil before serving.

66 ITALIA! August/September 2023

Rice cakes with mozzarella Rice pudding with almonds
and tomato and raisins
Crocchette di riso con Riso al latte con mandorle
mozzarella e pomodoro e uvetta
SERVES 4 SERVES 4
PREPARATION 15 minutes PREPARATION 5 minutes
COOKING 15 minutes COOKING 25 minutes

• 2 plum tomatoes, sliced • 100g fine breadcrumbs • 150g arborio rice • 50g raisins
• 125g fresh mozzarella • 350g cooked risotto • 750ml whole milk • 30g chopped almonds
• 2 free-range eggs • olive oil for frying • 80g granulated sugar • ½ tsp cinnamon
• 1 tsp vanilla extract • 4 tbsp sugar for the topping
1 Good preparation is key. Make sure before you begin assembling
that you have chopped your tomatoes and mozzarella into slices, 1 In a medium heavy-based saucepan bring the rice and the milk to
placed the eggs in a bowl and whisked them together, placed the the boil. Reduce the heat and add the sugar and the vanilla. Cook
breadcrumbs in another large bowl and have a large plate or tray gently for about 15 minutes stirring occasionally. Add the dried
ready for the finished cakes. fruit and the almonds. Continue cooking for about another 10
2 Begin by placing a large tablespoon of rice in the palm of your hand minutes, until the rice is cooked and tender. Add a little extra milk if
and flatten out slightly. Place a slice of tomato and a slice of cheese needed as you don’t want the rice to dry out.
in the centre. Take another tablespoon of risotto and place it over 2 Once cooked, add the cinnamon and spoon the rice into individual
the top and gently using both hands shape into a patty. serving dishes and refrigerate until cold and you are ready to serve.
3 Dip into the egg and then into the breadcrumbs. Once done, place 3 To finish, top each pudding with a heaped tablespoon of sugar in a
aside and continue making the cakes until all the rice has been used thin layer. If you have a heat gun, use as instructed to caramelise
up. If your hands begin to get too sticky and the rice difficult to the sugar. If not, place the puddings under a heated grill until the
work with, just wash your hands, but don’t dry them as wet hands sugar melts and browns, which should take about 4-5 minutes.
make the mixture much easier to work with.
4 Finally, heat the olive oil in a frying pan and when hot cook the TIP If you don’t have a heat gun and you are going to use the grill to
cakes, turning once until golden and hot all the way through. caramelise the sugar, keep the heat down as low as possible and
Serve hot or cold. make sure you keep a very good eye on your rice puddings as they
brown. It would be a shame for it all to go wrong now!

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 67

B U Y I TA L I A !

JARRED
VEGETABLES
1

Food always tastes better outdoors – and these seven

savoury options are sure to power up your next picnic

T
here’s something quite special
about eating outside when the
weather is fine, and the last
thing you want to be is stuck
indoors preparing mountains
of food to take with you. Preserved or pickled
vegetables are a mainstay of the Italian larder
and perfect picnic fare in their lidded glass
containers. Whether they are preserved in oil or
brined, they are packed with flavour and colour
to elevate any outdoor get-together to a feast.
ITOR
We’ve gathered up a varied selection of familiar ED
AUG/SEP
’S

and more unusual jarred vegetables, pâtés,

IA !

2023
CHO

spreads, bruschetta toppings, and a simply

AL

splendid condiment (see below) to bring your ICE IT

picnic spread together!

2
EDITOR’S CHOICE
GIUSTI SWEET AND SOUR
GINGER CONDIMENT
From Vorrei
www.vorrei.co.uk
Price £13.50 for 250ml
There’s no doubt that all the products
that we have tasted this issue are
picnic-perfect, and well worth hunting
1 ALPENZU 2 SACLÀ
down if you’d like to add them to your
feast. While this is not strictly speaking GIARDINIERA CONDIVERDE RISO
a jarred vegetable, pâté or pickle, VEGETABLE PICKLES From Saclà
it will add so much extra flavour to From Sous Chef www.sacla.co.uk
salad dressings, rice salads and more www.souschef.co.uk Price £3.40 for 290g
that it will lift your everyday fare to Price £11.50 for 530g Rice salad is an absolute
exquisite heights. Made by award- This sweet and sour must if you are planning
winning Giuseppe Giusti in Modena, combination of peppers, an Italian picnic. This rice
where seventeen generations of the carrots, cauliflower, fennel, dressing from Saclà contains
family have been producing high celery and green beans have a mighty thirteen types of
quality balsamic vinegar since 1605, plenty of crunch, and the veg all ready chopped into
this punchy condiment is made from apple cider vinegar lends bite-size morsels to add to
wine vinegar and grape must with the a zesty tang. A colourful your salad. Remember to
addition of spicy ginger juice. Fresh and addition to your spread. refrigerate rice once cooked.
light, it’s a perfect balance of sweet and
sour. Also good when making soft drinks VERDICT VERDICT
and cocktails (see also page 73). We love these crisp Stir this tasty vegetable
agrodolce (sweet and mix through cooked rice
VERDICT sour) pickles. Layer with and any other favourite
With the kick of ginger, add this amazing condiment to your salad dressings and cheeses or cured meats in ingredients. The lightly
you won’t look back. Try the pomegranate or apple condiment from Vorrei too! a piadina-style flatbread seasoned oil just needs a
for a tasty snack. squeeze of lemon.

68 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 3 5

4 6

3 SEGGIANO 4 VORREI 5 CALABRIAMA 6 SEGGIANO

ARTICHOKE PÂTÉ CIME DI RAPA BOMBA REGGINA MIXED VEGETABLE
From Seggiano From Vorrei From Sous Chef ANTIPASTI
www.seggiano.com www.vorrei.co.uk www.souschef.co.uk From Seggiano
Price £6.00 for 180g Price £5.90 for 280g Price £5.99 for 285g www.seggiano.com
Made from freshly harvested Also known as broccoli This chunky vegetable Price £15.25 for 500g
Morelli artichokes which rabe or turnip green, this spread from Calabria has a This tall jar is packed
are grated and combined favourite southern Italian bit of a chilli kick alongside with grilled artichokes,
with lemon, oil and lightly vegetable is blanched all the other tasty veg such peppers, Borretane onions
seasoned, this pâté has a and sautéed with olive as a medley of mushrooms, and sun-dried tomatoes
delicious melt-in-the-mouth oil, garlic and chilli flakes aubergines, capers, olives from Tuscany in delicious
texture and delightful which softens the greens and more! It spreads well extra-virgin olive oil. The
moreish flavour. Vegetarian and removes any bitterness. and you can dip grissini in it vegetables have plenty of
and vegan-friendly. Packed with umami flavour! if you can stand the heat! bite and are a colourful mix.

VERDICT VERDICT VERDICT VERDICT

Bruschette all the way Definitely one to take on Stir through a pre- Serve as part of your
for this creamy veggie your next picnic – these prepared salad of green picnic spread with a
spread, although it would versatile greens are a beans, chickpeas and squeeze of lemon or a
also be delightful served delicious accompaniment tuna, or toss with warm scattering of fresh thyme.
as a dip with a platter of to any salad or with a pasta to allow the Perfect for piling onto
crudités or grissini. good cheese and crackers. flavours to infuse. bruschette as well.

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 69

C O O K I TA L I A !

Bloody Mary rigatoni

Rigatoni allo Bloody Mary
SERVES 1 PREPARATION 10 minutes COOKING 20 minutes

• 1 tbsp butter • 3 tbsp tomato purée

• 2 tsp olive oil • 2 tsp Frank’s hot sauce (or other
• 1 red onion, peeled and finely cayenne-based sauce, to taste)

The art of
sliced • a good few dashes of
• 1 celery stick, very finely chopped Worcestershire sauce
• 100g dry rigatoni • 1 tbsp vodka or gin
• 1 large garlic clove, peeled and • ½ lemon, juiced
grated • 50ml double cream
• ½ tsp celery seeds (or 1 tsp celery • flaky salt, grated parmesan and
salt and reduce the flaky salt) ground black pepper, to serve

1 Put the butter and olive oil in a heavy-based saucepan over a

low–medium heat. When the butter has melted, add the onion and
celery and a good pinch of salt. Cover and cook the onion and celery for
15 minutes, or until both have become properly soft.
2 Meanwhile, put the pasta on. Cook the rigatoni in plenty of well-salted
boiling water until al dente. Reserve a couple of tablespoons of cooking
water when you come to drain it.
3 Add the garlic and celery seeds (or celery salt) to the onion and celery
and cook, without the lid, for 1 minute. Turn the heat up a little and add
the tomato purée, hot sauce and Worcestershire sauce.
4 Cook, stirring continuously, for 2 minutes, then add the vodka, lemon
juice and a good pinch of salt. Cook for 2 more minutes, again stirring
continuously, until the sauce has come together and looks smooth and
glossy. Take the pan off the heat.
5 Tip the pasta and the reserved cooking water into the pan with the
sauce and add the cream. Put the pan back over a low heat and mix
everything together, tossing it thoroughly to make sure the sauce is
Kick off the weekend with quick & easy clinging to the pasta. Serve with plenty of parmesan and black pepper.
Italian-inspired dishes from Eleanor Steafel

70 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 Broad beans and peas
with saffron, wine and
ricotta
Fave e piselli con zafferano,
vino e ricotta
SERVES 1
PREPARATION 20 minutes
COOKING 20 minutes

• a good pinch of saffron

• 1 lemon, juice of half and zest of the whole
• 2 tbsp ricotta
• olive oil, for frying
• 60g slab of pancetta, cut into thick chunks
• 1 tbsp butter
• 1 rosemary sprig
• 1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and bashed
• 1 tsp fennel seeds
• 50ml rosé or white wine
• 90g shelled broad beans (with bigger ones, pop the
green interiors out of their shells)
• 100g frozen peas
• a handful of fresh herbs (parsley, basil, oregano or
mint would be good, or a mixture), roughly chopped
or torn
• flaky salt and freshly cracked black pepper
• good olive or cold-pressed rapeseed oil, to finish
• flaky salt, grated parmesan and ground black
pepper, to serve

1 In a small bowl, mix the saffron with the lemon juice

and leave it to sit. In another bowl, combine the zest
and ricotta with black pepper and a little salt. Leave
that to sit too.
2 Set a casserole pan over a medium heat with a glug of
oil. Add the pancetta and fry until crispy. Remove the
meat from the pan with a slotted spoon and set it
aside on a plate lined with kitchen paper.
3 Turn the heat down and add the butter and rosemary
sprig. When the butter has melted, add the shallot,
garlic and fennel seeds and season with salt. Cook for
10 minutes, or until the shallot and garlic are soft.
4 Add a splash of water, and the wine, the saffron and
lemon mixture and some more black pepper. Simmer
for another 10 minutes, then add the beans and cook
until tender (about 4 minutes, depending on the size
of your beans). Then add the peas and simmer for 1-2
minutes, until just cooked.
5 Immediately ladle the beans and their liquor into a
warmed bowl. Sprinkle with herbs, scatter the
pancetta on top and add a spoonful or two of the
lemony ricotta. Season to taste and finish with grated
Photographs © Sophie Davidson

parmesan and a drizzle of oil.

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 71

C O O K I TA L I A !

Fried mort ’n’ This is clearly an Italian-

mozz sandwich American inspired sandwich
and as such there are no rules –
with honey butter unless, that is, you are
Sandwich fritto counting the calories!
di mortadella e
mozzarella con
burro al miele
SERVES 2
PREPARATION 5 minutes
COOKING 10 minutes

• 2 panini rolls, sliced in half lengthwise

• 4 slices of mortadella
• 6 slices of dry mozzarella (wet
mozzarella is fine too, but the dry
version melts particularly well)
• olive oil
• 1 tbsp butter
• 1 small garlic clove, peeled and
finely sliced
• 1 tsp runny honey
• flaky salt

1 First, toast your bread, either in a

toaster or in a griddle pan if you want
more of a char.
2 Lay 2 slices of the mortadella on the
bottom half of each roll, folding it in, so
it doesn’t spill out of the bread too
much. Arrange equal amounts of the
mozzarella on top, then top with the
other half of each roll. Squeeze the
sandwiches down.
3 Set a large frying pan over a medium
heat. When the pan is hot, drizzle a little
olive oil over each sandwich and sit them
– oiled side down – in the pan. Pop a
piece of baking paper on top, then sit a
heavy pan on top of the sandwiches to These recipes are
flatten them. Fry for 3 minutes, until the from The Art of
cheese is beginning to melt, then Friday Night Dinner
remove the pan and paper, drizzle the by Eleanor Steafel,
top sides with a little oil and flip the published by
sandwiches. Cook for another 2 minutes Bloomsbury, out
or so, using the paper and pan again. now. (£26.00 RRP,
4 Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small Hardback).
saucepan over a medium heat. Add the Photographs ©
garlic and cook for 1 minute, then add Sophie Davidson
the honey and swirl the pan so that the
honey and butter mix. Take the pan off
the heat.
5 When the sandwiches are ready, use a
pastry brush (or a teaspoon) to spread
a little hot butter on the bread. Finish
with a sprinkle of flaky salt. Cut the
sandwiches in half and eat messily.

72 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 D R I N K I TA L I A !

SUMMER
DRINKS
Long summer evenings and sunny days mean getting
together with friends and family – here’s our edit of
summer drinks that everyone can enjoy…

G
etting together in the summer – whether it’s an event you’ve been
planning for ages, or an impromptu gathering on a warm evening
– is an occasion to be savoured. At such a moment, a generous
choice of drinks is appreciated, from wines and spirits to flavoursome
non-alcoholic alternatives. Italy sets the bar high when it comes to

Italy sets the bar high when

it comes to aperitivo time
aperitivo time, which is why they have some of the best alcohol-free
options such as Crodino and Sanbittèr, brimming with aromats and full of
flavour. We’ve also found a more unusual teetotal take on the zesty lemons
of Amalfi – it’s a lemon vinegar which, trust us, is absolutely delicious!
Continuing the citrus theme, we have a limoncello from Ischia which is
Italian sunshine in a glass. Fresh from the freezer, it’s a cooling aperitivo or
after-dinner digestivo, and will add a tangy zip to cocktails. If wine is your
preference, we have chosen from the far north and deep south of Italy with
a red from Sicily and a white from Valle d’Aosta. Fresh and bright, serve
the red lightly chilled and it will go down very well; as for the white, it is
as sleek and restrained as you’d expect from its cool northern terroir.
Wishing you all happy summer celebrations – cin cin!

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 73

D R I N K I TA L I A !

BIANCO ENSEMBLO CRODINO

Prices correct at time of printing

DISCOVERY OF VALLE D’AOSTA From Sous Chef
DOP LA SOURCE
THE MONTH 2018
www.souschef.co.uk
Price £11.50 for 10 x 10cl
LIMONCELLO BY From Corney & Barrow In its diminutive glass
ASSUNTINA DI CAPRI www.corneyandbarrow.com bottles, Crodino is an
From Saclà Price £13.95 amber-coloured alcohol-
www.sacla.co.uk From the family-run free drink that has been
Price £38 for 500ml La Source wine estate part of the Italian aperitivo
Opaque and delicately yellow in hue, this limoncello is comes this delightfully tradition for nearly 60
prepared by hand every spring from lemons grown in fresh summer white wine. years. Its spice, herb and
Ischian groves, with the zest macerated in a base of pure Ensemblo means blend in botanical blend is a closely
grain alcohol to extract all the bright, citrus-y flavours. the local dialect and this guarded secret, but there’s
Sunshine in a glass, this limoncello has a fresh citrus wine is a blend of Traminer, a real depth of punchy clove
sharpness which balances well with the sweetness. Moscato and Müller-Thurgau spice alongside more woody,
grapes which come together bitter aromats. Aging for
to create this aromatic wine. six months before bottling
From the floral bouquet to creates a complex depth of
the white peach flavours on flavour in Crodino, which
the palate, this is an easy- should always be served
drinking treat for summer. chilled for drinking.
ISCOVE
NTH D

AUG/SEP
RY
2023
TH
OF
E MO

GREAT WITH… GREAT WITH… GREAT WITH…

Serve icy-sharp straight from the freezer as the Well-chilled, this summer A slice of fresh orange and
party ends, or with tonic as a longer drink. white will take you through plenty of ice, served in a
from aperitivo to dolce. generous wine glass.

74 ITALIA! August/September 2023

MUSSINI BALSAM SANTA TRESA’S SANBITTÈR ROSSO NEXT MONTH IN
LIMONCINO FRAPPATO RINA

Taste
From Sous Chef
From Saclà RUSSA www.souschef.co.uk
www.sacla.co.uk From Waitrose Price £10.99 for 10 x 10cl
Price £14.00 for 250ml www.waitrose.com From the San Pellegrino
Mussini, a renowned Price £8.99 (on offer until brand comes the cranberry-
balsamic vinegar producer 1st Aug, then £10.99) hued Sanbittèr Rosso,
in Modena, produces this
non-alcoholic condiment
based on a blend of cooked
Stefano Girelli and sister
Marina produce a range of
wines at their Santa Tresa
one of Italy’s favourite
aperitivi. It comes in a cool
single-serve recyclable
Cook
white grape must and wine estate near Vittoria in glass bottle. With robust
vinegar. Fruity and lightly southeast Sicily. Rina Russa bitter orange and grapefruit Meet the Pasta Man
acidic, it is flavoured with means ‘red sand’ in Sicilian flavours to the fore and Take a malfatti masterclass
snappy Amalfi lemon zest dialect and this organic red spicy notes going on in
and limoncino (similar to from the Frappato grape the background, this is
limoncello). Bursting with
tangy citrus, it really is a
is medium-bodied, light
and bright, just perfect
the alcohol-free answer to
Campari and soda. Always
Four Takes
refreshing option to offer for summer drinking. The served chilled, its ‘grown-
Porcini with Mario Matassa
designated drivers – or try abundance of juicy red up’ bitter flavour better
with prosecco and basil for
a spritz with a difference!
berries is tempered by a hint
of spice and sour cherry.
suits drinkers who don’t
have a sweet tooth!
Cucina Povera
Authentic recipes for autumn

Buy
Grow veg with Italian seeds
This image by Maria Bell, from Modern South Asian Kitchen by Sabrina Gidda, published by Quadrille (RRP £27). Contents may be subject to change

Drink
Wines from Lake Garda

GREAT WITH… GREAT WITH… GREAT WITH…

Add bitter lemon, mint, You need to serve this wine Plenty of ice and a citrus
and ice for a refreshing slightly chilled. Goes well slice, or with a spritz of
alcohol-free drink. with seared fresh tuna. soda to lighten the flavour.

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 75

 MARK ETPLACE MARK ETPLACE MARK ETPLACE MARK ETPLACE MARK ETPLACE
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 Living Look no further for expert Italian
property advice and properties for sale
10 pages
of expert Homes
advice and
properties Living on the Islands
We take a look at the property
prospects in Sardinia and Sicily

p78

Property Showcase
Our round-up of top properties
for sale around Italy this month

p 88

Sardinia offers some

of the best beach
holidays in Europe

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 77

L I V I N G I TA L I A !

Islands are very distinctive

places where traditions,
languages and wildlife have
evolved in their own way

Isola Bella lies

just off the
coast of Sicily
by Taormina

78 ITALIA! August/September 2023

Porto Giunco is one of southern
Sardinia’s most beautiful beaches

Living on
Italy has some of Europe’s most beautiful islands.
From sizeable landmasses to tiny gems, you’ll find
every kind of Mediterranean idyll here. Island homes
make an excellent investment, says Fleur Kinson

A
h, the lure of islands! of, and big internationally loved
Procida, one of the Phlegraean Naturally romantic destinations such as Sardinia and
Islands off the coast of Naples places, these spots Sicily. Given the sheer number of
of sea-encircled island options out there and the
land offer a natural limited space available here, you’ll
sense of escape. An island is a little understand why we’ll be focussing
world of its own where you can mainly on the two biggest islands,
feel beyond the reach of workaday Sardinia and Sicily, in this article.
mainland concerns. It’s no surprise But first some general points
that many holiday dreams feature on buying property on any Italian
islands. Many holiday home island. Note that such locations
dreams feature them too.
Intimacy is part of any island’s
appeal, but so too is a unique AT A GLANCE…
identity. Islands are very distinctive SARDINIA
places where traditions, languages Sardinia’s most densely populated
and wildlife have evolved in their areas are around Olbia, Cagliari
own way. Islands are often ‘special’. and Alghero. There are flights
For leisure travellers, they have from the UK to each of these three
also often seemed a bit ‘exclusive’, destinations. It is quieter on the
because it was traditionally harder western and eastern coasts, and
to reach them without, say, your inland it gets much more rural. The
own yacht. Even now when several island’s biggest draws are its sandy
Italian islands can be reached by beaches and sapphire sea.
direct flights from the UK and are SICILY
therefore every bit as accessible as Sicily is served by airports at
mainland destinations, their aura of Palermo, Catania, Trapani and
discerning luxuriousness lingers. Comiso. The summers are hot and it
stays pleasant through winter. There
SPOILT FOR CHOICE are several Blue Flag beaches and
It would take you a very long time UNESCO World Heritage sites.
to visit all of Italy’s islands. Because THE REST
there are about 450 of them. They Other Italian islands and island
include well-known day-tripper groups include Capri, Elba and
favourites such as Capri and the Aegadian Islands, offering
Venice, remote luxury getaways varied property prospects from
Capri is known for its rugged
such as the Aeolian Islands and super-expensive Capri to cheap and
landscape and upmarket living Pantelleria, dainty little isles very charming Favignana.
few non-Italians have ever heard

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 79

L I V I N G I TA L I A !

VILLA BY SEA, SAN TEODORO

DREAM HOME
Type of property Villa + apartment Coastal holiday Pantelleria, a luxury getaway
Number of bedrooms 3 home in in the Straits of Sicily
Price €990,000 Sardinia
Location Cala Ginepro, nr San Teodoro
Contact Live in Sardinia ☎ +353 87 77 41 141 are seldom cheap, but they make
[email protected] www.liveinsardinia.com
a very good investment. Island
Beautiful villa at Cala Ginepro, just 200m from the destinations are always in demand,
sea near the popular coastal town of San Teodoro. so holiday rental prospects –
The property is on two floors: on the ground floor,
and resale values – remain very
approximately 105 sqm, a living room with kitchen Sicily itself is famed
area, and a corridor that leads to the sleeping area
strong. What’s more, far-sighted for its oranges
where there are 2 double bedrooms and 3 bathrooms. restrictions on new building mean
Externally, a large veranda to enjoy the views and relax that most islands are very well-
amid the Mediterranean vegetation. At around 55 sqm protected from over-development. GORGEOUS SARDINIA
in size, the lower floor has been converted into an This safeguards their charm and Some say the Med’s second largest
apartment that hosts a living room, a bedroom and a character, as well as the value of island is the loveliest place in the
bathroom and also a laundry space. Ref 22050 their properties. whole sea. It’s hard to argue with
Prices can be especially high on that when you’re gazing open-
the smaller islands, and sometimes mouthed at Sardinia’s white and
there is very little on the market gold beaches lapped by turquoise
since no one wants to give up their water, its wind-sculpted rock
precious island idyll. But on the formations and mysterious ancient
largest islands you won’t struggle to stone towers, its pretty pinewoods,
find affordable property, especially cork forests, vineyards and olive
if you look slightly inland. You groves draped across dreamy round
could get a nicely situated village hills and low mountains.
home half an hour from the sea Sardinia’s unspoilt natural
for as little as €40,000. In a beach environment owes much to the
resort, you might get a small island’s low population density
apartment for €100,000. Houses and to sensible limits on tourist
FARMHOUSE, LUOGOSANTO, N SARDINIA and villas in coastal areas tend to development. Sardinia has no big
Type of property Farmhouse start at about €250,000. cities and no vast, sprawling
Number of bedrooms Contact vendor for details
Price €540,000
Location Luogosanto, Northern Sardinia Bosa is a relatively substantial settlement
Contact Live in Sardinia ☎ +353 87 77 41 141 in the province of Oristano, Sardinia
[email protected] www.liveinsardinia.com
The estate of Calcinaggiu, near medieval Luogosanto,
spans over a beautiful 5-hectare land set in a remarkable
and pristine landscape. The traditional stazzu farmhouse
nestles amid large granite outcrops, blending in with
towering holm oaks trees, green pastures. The property,
with its south-facing orientation, consists of two
distinct residential buildings, making it an ideal to host
large families and possibly use it to run a B&B, taking
advantage of its excellent location due the vicinity to the
stunning coastal village of Aglientu, Rena Majore and
Santa Teresa Di Gallura. Ref 22130

80 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 LIVE IN SARDINIA
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.liveinsardinia.com

FINDING AND NEGOTIATING FOR

FIND YOUR DREAM HOME
PROPERTY IN SARDINIA AND SICILY? IN BEAUTIFUL SARDINIA WITH US

Reach out to D&G Property Advice for We specialise in

• Stazzu / Farmhouses
buying advice in Sardinia and Sicily • Sea Front Villas
• Restoration Projects
We exclusively represent • Residential Properties
only the buyer’s interests • Plots of Land
DOWNLOAD
when managing the OUR FREE GUIDE:
Live in Sardinia is a well-established agency based in the North of
Sardinia with 20 years experience in the real estate industry
buying process ‘The 5 most common
FIND OUT MORE: buying mistakes in Italy,
VISIT OUR WEBSITE TO DISCOVER OUR
www.dandgpropertyadvice.com and how to avoid them’ WIDE RANGE OF PROPERTIES IN SARDINIA’S
[email protected]
www.dandgpropertyadvice. MOST SOUGHT AFTER LOCATIONS
☎ +44 (0)203 2390479 com/freeGuide
☎ +1 332 2498742
GET IN TOUCH: +353 87 77 41 141
L I V I N G I TA L I A !

ISLANDS REGIONAL GUIDE

INTRODUCTION SARDINIA: NORTH
Italy, as a nation state, has existed 1 The Costa Smeralda is the
in its current form for about a biggest attraction in the northeast.
century and a half – no more. Sardinia’s tourist industry began
Regular visitors, travellers and here in the 1960s as a luxurious,
property owners will be fully aware exclusive resort, and nothing’s
that this nation state is in fact an really changed – the area still
amalgamation of many similar commands by far the highest
but different regions and peoples, property prices on the island,
who eat differently, live diverse and offers a glamorous lifestyle
lifestyles, and often – at home at among the international jetset.
least – speak really quite divergent To find more realistic prices in the
dialects that, had it not been for the northeast, further north you’ll find
Risorgimento, might well be classed Santa Teresa di Gallura, and further
as distinct languages. Go to Sardinia south are San Teodoro and Budoni.
or Sicily, for example, with your Olbia is a functional town that
formal Italian, and you may find hasn’t so far attracted much interest
that your linguistic talents are not from foreign buyers but acts as
quite up to conversing freely with a good portal. Inland there are
you neighbours at the local bar! pleasant villages, although this
area is much more remote and
considerably less populated, with
7 mountains and cork forests making
up much of the terrain.
In the northwest, the main
resort is Alghero, a charming town
with a thriving fishing port and
attractive medieval architecture,
1 close to pretty beaches and lovely
countryside. There is also good
rental potential here, but house
prices are getting steeper by the
7 year as Alghero’s popularity grows.
2 Stintino, a little north of
Alghero, is even pricier, but offers
breathtaking beauty and is a
hotspot for holiday homes. Look
to Sassari, a little further inland,
3 for slightly lower prices.

SARDINIA: CENTRE & SOUTH

7
2 Although there’s been an

7 4 increase in recent years, fewer

6 visitors seem to spend time at
Sardinia’s central coast, both east
and west. This is reflected in the
5 property prices, which are lower
7 than other coastal areas of the
island. Oristano, on the west coast,
is a pleasant town surrounded by
wildlife-rich canals and lagoons,

82 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 Walk in Napoleon’s The volcanic
footsteps on Elba Aeolian Islands

Levanzo, one of the

Egadi Islands

and there are still some good buys villages and parks. Taormina and SICILY: WEST
to be had in the smaller villages. the northeast encompasses the
Inland, the Lake Omodeo area is Ionian Coast between the Straits 6 Sicily’s capital, Palermo, is also
picturesque and reasonable in price. of Messina and Catania, and is the the island’s largest city; exotic
Further east, you’ll find the most most popular tourist area. It is also and bustling, it is a heady mix of
remote, unvisited part of the island. home to Europe’s largest active Oriental and European influences.
The rugged, forested Gennargentu volcano, Etna. Taormina is Sicily’s To the west of Palermo the terrain
Mountains are a place of wild, best-known resort, offering a place is rugged and peppered with Greek
natural beauty but villages around to stay for every budget. It is lively ruins. This is one of the areas of
here are tiny, deeply traditional and European and hosts glamorous Sicily most off the tourist trail, but
and not so easily accessible. Enjoy events such as film festivals. its tranquillity makes it a must-
some of the island’s lowest property see area as the coastline has a lot
prices here. SICILY: SOUTH & CENTRE to offer with its clear waters and
tiny coves. Part of the shoreline
SARDINIA: SOUTH 5 The southeast corner of Sicily is incorporated into the nature
has scenic countryside, stunning reserve of Zingaro. Characterful
3 Sardinia’s south has seen more beaches, and is largely unspoilt. resorts dotted along the coast
foreign buyers in recent years, Syracuse is an elegant, ancient include Trapani, Marinella, Erice
thanks to an increase in budget city fusing Greek design and 18th- and Marsala, with great hotels and
flights to Cagliari. This has meant century baroque architecture. excellent food and wine on offer.
a rise in visitor interest and holiday Further south is dazzling Noto,
rentals, but it also means prices rebuilt in the early 18th century THE SMALLER ISLANDS
have gone up. It is, however, still after an earthquake. Further
cheaper than the north and there inland, Ragusa is a charming 7 If you really want to escape the
are some lovely towns here. provincial town. Its neighbour city, a host of small islands await
The capital is a likeable place Modica has excellent food, stunning your attention. Capri is nestled off
where property prices are fair, and architecture and delicious chocolate the bay of Naples, resplendent with
good beaches and countryside are to offer. The Riserva Naturale Oasi high-class, luxurious retreats and
within easy reach. Closer to the Faunistica di Vendicari, a protected prices to match. The bay also offers
coast, southwest of Cagliari, the stretch of coastal salt marshes, is a Ischia and Procida, the former a
Costa del Sud has great beaches haven for rare birds. precious haven of sublime beaches
and lovely towns like Pula and The centre and south is a region and thermal springs, the latter
Chia. The nearby resort of Santa of contrasts: the ancient landscape more suited to tranquil retreats.
Margherita is upmarket; look to the is mountainous in parts and reflects Elba, west of Grosseto’s coast,
Costa Rei for value in a nice area. the agricultural and industrial has pretty beaches and great
endeavours that have characterised walking. North of the Sicilian
SICILY: NORTH & NORTHEAST this area through the centuries. It is coast are the Aeolians, a septet of
an area of great natural beauty with volcanic islands bursting with flora
4 From Palermo to Milazzo is isolated towns reflecting a quieter and fauna. To the northwest are the
the Tyrrhenian Coast, packed with pace of life. The UNESCO World unspoilt trio of Favignana, Levanzo
holiday resorts and beaches. The Heritage Site at Piazza Armerina, and Marettimo, making up three
most popular is Cefalù, a seaside the Villa Romana del Casale, is of the Egadi Islands, with some
town with medieval streets and a a magnificent Roman country bargain opportunities, while to
long, sandy beach. Inland you’ll residence. Further south enjoy the southwest lie Lampedusa and
find it less touristy, with mountain Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples. Pantelleria – true hideaways.

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 83

L I V I N G I TA L I A !

BUILDABLE LAND NEAR OLBIA, N SARDINIA

Type of property Land for farmhouse and outbuildings Medlar fruits are still
Villasimius, Sardinia, home
Number of bedrooms TBC to the Spiaggia Porto Giunco grown and harvested
Price €280,000
Location Olbia, Northern Sardinia
Contact Live in Sardinia ☎ +353 87 77 41 141 resorts. Communities are small and
[email protected] www.liveinsardinia.com
friendly. Sardinians are typically
This panoramic 11 hectare plot of land represents kind and gentle people who have
the quintessence of the beautiful Gallura region’s a reputation for being quieter and
countryside, an area dotted with grazing fields that
less excitable than the traditional
alternate with dense woods of cork, holm oaks and
granite outcrops. Prospective buyers will be able to apply
southern Italian stereotype.
for a fast-track building permit to develop a farmhouse Sardinia is also clearly an
of around 260 sqm including outbuildings (stables, extremely healthy place to live
warehouses, etc). Olbia, a lively town, is just a 10 minute and to be. Carlo Vallebona of the
drive away from the plot. Also within short distance of estate agency Vallebona.com points seeking to escape from chaotic
the property there are stupendous beaches and coastline out that the island “has one of the and polluted centres elsewhere
to enjoy. Ref 21304 highest numbers of centenarians in Europe to embrace a new
in the world. Beside some DNA way of living. With its spacious
predisposition, most of this is due territory and low population
to the healthy diet and a low-stress density, Sardinia is seen as an ideal
lifestyle. It seems that every day destination for those longing for a
you spend in Sardinia is helping to more balanced lifestyle.” He adds
extend your lifespan!” that, “Sardinia has been one of
Antonello Demuro of the estate the most desired locations in the
agency Live in Sardinia concurs, Mediterranean since the Covid
noting that, “Many investors are travel ban was lifted.”

Inland, away from the coastal areas,

Sardinia can get very rural

SEA-VIEW LAND FOR DEVELOPMENT, SICILY

Type of property Land with permission to build villa
Number of bedrooms TBC
Price €180,000
Location Collesano, Sicily
Contact Property in Sicily ☎ +39 339 60 97 076
[email protected]
www.property-in-sicily.estate
At the top of a green valley running down to the
Tyrrhenian Sea a, Plot Lo Forti is a 3.6 hectare expanse
of mostly undeveloped land. The only building on the
terrain is a small storehouse, built 200 years ago of local
stone and structurally untouched since. It is, in more
ways than one, a high point of this typically Sicilian
landscape. As the little ‘rustico’ structure is only listed
on the cadastral records as a storage space, the most
vital feature of this land is that it will be permissible to
build up to 350m2 of new residential property.

84 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 Dave and Marie have a
small flat by the beach

Image courtesy of Dave and Marie Tringham

Castelsardo offers moderately priced OUR ISLAND LIFE
properties on Sardinia’s north coast
Dave and Marie Tringham from Sheffield own a two-
bedroom apartment in a small beach town in the middle
THE PROPERTY MARKET, highest in Europe. But just a few of Sardinia’s northern coast. They visit it for several weeks
NORTH TO SOUTH miles either side of this gilded every July as well as for a week at Easter and in the autumn.
At 140 miles long by 70 miles stretch, homes can be had for a Friends, family and holiday rental clientele fill up most of
wide, Sardinia is a large place with third or a quarter of the price. the rest of the calendar.
various property hotspots and South of Olbia, resorts such as What, or rather who, drew them to Sardinia? “It’s D. H.
bargain areas in different parts of Budoni and San Teodoro are great Lawrence’s fault!” Dave laughs. “I read his travel memoir
the island. The northern coast is spots to look at for less expensive Sea and Sardinia when I was in my twenties and it sparked
the most developed and popular seaside apartments. a lifelong intrigue with the island. When Marie and I first
stretch. Alghero in the northwest is Sardinia’s long western and came here thirty years ago, I was thrilled to find that Sardinia
a delightful, colourful seaside town eastern flanks are the island’s least was every bit as enchanting as I had been expecting. Since
with moderate-to-high property developed coastlines. The central then, we’ve travelled all over the island, which is huge and
prices. Little Bosa just south of western coast from Bosa down wonderfully varied. When we decided to buy a holiday home
Alghero is much cheaper. to Oristano is an up-and-coming ten years ago, we chose the north coast because it was very
The central northern coast area that might suit someone easy to get to from the UK and it offered us so many interesting
holds lots of moderately priced, looking for an inexpensive places spread across a small area. There are superb beaches,
good-value homes; Castelsardo is a coastal home. Sardinia’s wild and wild open spaces, pretty resorts, sleepy little villages, lively
charming spot and its surrounding empty eastern coast is cheaper towns, posh yachts, humble fishing boats, pinewoods, hills –
area is a good one to investigate. still, as is the island’s sleepy deep all sorts of things within easy reach of where we are.
The northeastern coast includes interior. Sardinia’s southern coast, “Our apartment is in a simple modern building at the end
the fabled Costa Smeralda, where meanwhile, is a very lovely place, of a quiet side street. It’s perfect for us. We didn’t want to have
property prices are among the and can generally be a bit cheaper to worry about restoring a ruin or maintaining an old house
for property than the north. Resort ‘with character’. We planned to be out and about most of the
areas to consider include Chia, time, exploring the local area rather than sitting in the house!
Villasiminus, the Costa Rei and We do have a nice balcony space at the apartment where we
Santa Margherita di Pula. often sit in the evenings over dinner, though, watching the
As you might imagine, holiday sunset fade and the stars come out. There’s always so much
rental prospects are very strong to notice, especially after a couple of glasses of wine – the
in Sardinia. Antonello Demuro slow cooling of the evening air and the way the smells of
of Live in Sardinia says, “Visitors the flowers and plants get stronger and sweeter. We love our
from all over the world flock to evenings on the balcony! We were a bit worried about what
Sardinia from May till the end of levels of noise we might get inside an apartment, but we’ve
October. Non-resident property- been very pleased to discover how well the Italians build.
owners commonly rent out their Very thick walls mean we don’t hear a thing from anyone.
properties and generate good, “Our property hunting and buying experience was very
if not excellent, rental incomes. smooth and straightforward. The estate agencies on the
There is also a constant growth in island are extremely helpful and professional. They’re used
long-term rentals, triggered by the to foreign buyers and explained everything and guided us
opportunity to work remotely.” through. I would recommend Sardinia to anyone. It’s such
Carlo Vallebona of Vallebona a unique and unusual place. And the local people are lovely –
.com adds, “On this topic I have extremely kind, gentle and hospitable. D. H. Lawrence
to say that British owners always was charmed by Sardinians when he visited the island, and
perform very well. Whereas I think anyone else would be too.”

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 85

L I V I N G I TA L I A !

APARTMENT IN CEFALÙ, SICILY

DREAM HOME
Type of property Sea-view apartment Apartment in Castellammare del Golfo, Sicily,
Number of bedrooms 1 popular beach the ‘Sea Castle on the Gulf’
Price €290,000 resort
Location Cefalù, Sicily
Contact Property in Sicily ☎ +39 339 60 97 076 Italians at times try to furnish be costly but €150,000 could get
[email protected]
their holiday homes with granny’s you a decent house up the hill.
www.property-in-sicily.estate
furniture leftovers, the Brits know Over in the northwestern
Apartment Céline could not possibly be closer to the much better how to make it nice, corner of Sicily, another appealing
beating heart of Cefalù, Sicily’s most popular resort
offer what is needed and give a market holds sway in the area of
right now. On the top floor, with an uninterrupted sea
view from the bedroom and terrace running along the
compelling customer service.” Trapani – a lovely old beach town
south wall, is a freshly renovated 1-bedroom property flanked by various small resorts and
called, Apartment Céline. Between the historic cathedral LIVELY SICILY offering access to the enchanting
and the Mediterranean, overlooking a gorgeous walled Sardinia’s southern neighbour nearby Egadi Islands (which
garden and a stone’s throw from Cefalù’s most sought- Sicily is the Mediterranean’s largest are also known as the Aegadian
after restaurants and bars, its contemporary design and most populous island. This Islands). You could find yourself an
perfectly complements a truly timeless location. big colourful place features apartment in Trapani for €100,000.
boisterous cities, time-warp Across Sicily’s interior, there
villages, Greek temples, Norman are plenty of homes that ask
cathedrals, Arab-influenced only a five-figure sum. But if
cuisine, long white beaches, fruit- you want to be near the sea and
clad hills, brooding mountains, still spend very little, you might
windswept offshore islets and two consider the island’s long, wild
entertainingly fiery but harmless and comparatively empty southern
volcanoes: Etna and Stromboli. coast. Rather more interesting
Sicily has long been loved by is the island’s southeastern corner,
northern Italian homebuyers, but specifically the fashionable
foreign buyers are a relatively new provinces of Ragusa and Siracusa.
phenomenon. You can find great Here you’ll find handsome
value for money on the island. old towns built of sandstone
SICILIAN FARMHOUSE, COLLESANO The longest-established resort in Baroque style, as well as beach
Type of property Traditional farmhouse is beautiful Taormina on the east resorts and fishing ports – all
Number of bedrooms 2 coast. It has the island’s highest full of life and friendliness.
Price €250,000 property prices (they’re on a par €150,000 would get you a nice
Location Collesano, Sicily with those of mainland Italy’s country villa down here.
Contact Property in Sicily ☎ +39 339 60 97 076 Amalfi Coast) but its holiday A final tip to anyone buying
[email protected]
rental prospects are superb. on Sicily is that it pays to negotiate
www.property-in-sicily.estate
Considerably cheaper is the on a property’s asking price.
Casale Nina is a traditional Sicilian farmhouse with land increasingly fashionable resort Haggling is a traditional part of
covering eight acres and including spectacular mountain
of Cefalù in the middle of the Sicilian culture and there’s an
views. A rustic farmhouse of unbelievable character,
steeped in the rich history and character of the land it
northern coast. The landscape is expectation that you’ll do it too!
overlooks, this traditional 2-bedroom property sits on a steep and plunging along this coast
vast plot of beautiful hillside. Just outside the charming and there are some especially good USEFUL CONTACTS
old town of Collesano, only 10km away from the beaches, property bargains to be had by
www.liveinsardinia.com
and within driving distance of modern Palermo and buying at higher elevations, where,
www.property-in-sicily.estate
glamorous Cefalù, you can find yourself transported to of course, you’ll also get panoramic www.vallebona.com
another universe. sea views. The seaside itself can

86 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 UK-BASED ENGLISH /
ITALIAN LAW EXPERTS
LEGAL SERVICES
• Real Estate acquisitions in Italy
• UK and Italian inheritance rules,
Italian and International wills,
inheritance disputes in Italy
• Contractual law and legal
assistance with contractual
disputes • Translation of legal
documents • Credit recovery

Laura Protti, Italian Avvocato and English Solicitor

LEP Law
Victory House
☎ +44 (0)20 7193 0290
99-101 Regent Street [email protected]
London
W1B 4EZ www.leplaw.co.uk
P R O P E RT Y S H OWC A S E

Property Showcase

€100,000-€250,000 €250,000-€500,000
VIGLIANO D’ASTI, PIEMONTE ASTI, PIEMONTE
A classic 4-bedroom large detached country house in good shape, In a commanding and quiet position, in the frazione of Valmanera, an
habitable but to be arranged and modernised internally, set in a quiet enchanting property within 3 km of the vibrant capital town of Asti,
location and immersed in 8,000 sqm of well tended land. On the ground a medieval gem in the heart of Monferrato. This beautiful 3-bedroom
floor: ample living room with chimney, dressing room and bathroom. house, with private drive and 6,000 sqm of well-tended land, is in
On the upper floor: 4 spacious bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, one of general good shape, with modern systems, and ready to move into. The
which has recently been renovated. The house has been equipped with house is on two levels. On the ground floor: kitchen, living room, storage
a modern boiler and radiators; all plumbing and wiring are in order and room and toilet, and a beautiful solid wood stairwell; on the east side
functioning. The house was completely renovated some years ago and there is access to the cellar, where the recently installed boiler room is
would benefit from minor jobs only. The land around the house is flat and located. Upstairs: 2 bedooms, study, bathroom and utility room. Ideal as
slopes down in front of the house to give views from the balcony. Ref 452 a holiday home. Good value for money! Ref 455
Price €145,000 Contact Verde Abitare ☎ +39 328 379 2917 Price €310,000 Contact Verde Abitare ☎ +39 328 379 2917
[email protected] www.verdeabitare.it [email protected] www.verdeabitare.it

€100,000-€250,000 €100,000-€250,000
BELVEGLIO, PIEMONTE VIGLIANO D’ASTI, PIEMONTE
A stunning and panoramic property on 1.8 ha of land close to Nizza In a quiet location, a detached country house with plenty of space to
Monferrato. The semi-detached property is on three floor levels build a pool, and extensive grounds. There is an approved restoration
and is composed of two adjoining units: a main house and a maid’s application, which means that restoration can begin immediately. The
accommodation. The main part comprises a hallway facing a stone house extends over two floors, plus there is a beautiful underground
staircase, a spacious kitchen, a sitting room. In the basement is a cellar. cellar. First floor: entrance overlooking the typical staircase, a kitchen,
On the mezzanine floor, 2 bedrooms and a bathroom. First floor: 2 a living room, two more storage and utility rooms. Upstairs there are 2
bedrooms. Second floor: 2 more bedrooms. The roof on this part is okay, bedrooms, a bathroom and a former hayloft. Underground: a beautiful
and can be maintained. The left wing comprises a stable, partly with vaulted cellar. On the right side there is a spacious portico. Good value
vaults. Upstairs is a hayloft with rebuilt roof. The right wing (the former for money. Ref 454
maid’s house) consists of a smaller unit, completely to restore. Ref 447 Price €150,000 Contact Verde Abitare ☎ +39 328 379 2917
Price €190,000 Contact Verde Abitare ☎ +39 328 379 2917 [email protected] www.verdeabitare.it
[email protected] www.verdeabitare.it

88 ITALIA! August/September 2023

 €250,000-€500,000 €100,000-€250,000
COSTA PARADISO, SARDEGNA CASTELSARDO, SARDEGNA
The Costa Paradiso Villas are two beautiful, detached villas immersed Just a stone’s throw from Castelsardo Castle and the characteristic
in the natural environment of one of the most beautiful places of north village you can find Vista Castello, a residential complex made up of two
Sardinia. The villas consist of a bright dining area with kitchenette, residential blocks comprising 3-room apartments and penthouses over
2 double bedrooms and 2 bathrooms. They have large gardens with three floors. Each unit consists of a large living area with kitchenette,
swimming pools and beautiful verandas overlooking the sea. Costa 2 bedrooms, and 1 or 2 bathrooms. All apartments have large terraces
Paradiso has one of the most beautiful beaches in the area: Li Cossi, to enjoy the wonderful view. Castelsardo is a charming medieval town
an authentic paradise with clear waters, ideal for snorkelling. Costa with an ancient history and important artisanal and religious traditions.
Paradiso is an easily accessible area, located near Santa Teresa di Gallura, Castelsardo offers a spectacular view of the Gulf of Asinara and on clear
a beautiful village and popular tourist destination. There is also the days you can also glimpse the mountains of Corsica. On the promontory
possibility to combine the two villas into one single villa. Ref 5442 stands the historical centre, fortified with an imposing castle. Ref 5445
Price €475,000 Contact ItaliaCasa ☎ +39 339 101 9042 Prices from €235,000 Contact ItaliaCasa ☎ +39 339 101 9042
[email protected] www.italiacasa.net [email protected] www.italiacasa.net

€100,000-€250,000 €1,750,000-€2,000,000
ISOLA LA MADDALENA, SARDEGNA SANTA TERESA GALLURA, SARDEGNA
Diamonds is a residential complex consisting of elegant sea-view Villa Tramonto is a prestigious modern villa just 150m from the beach.
buildings. Each building consists of 4 floors with several 3-room The villa is divided on two floors, organised into 4 bedrooms, 1 large
apartments and 2-room apartments: on the ground floor the units are living area, 4 bathrooms, large outdoor spaces and 2 parking spaces. The
surrounded by the garden, on the 1st and 2nd floors the properties villa is surrounded by a large garden with an infinity pool overlooking
enjoy sea-view terraces, and on the top floor soar the penthouses. The the sea. Villa Tramonto is located near Santa Teresa Gallura, a village of
apartments are located at the Mangiavolpe Marina, an ideal place to about 5,000 inhabitants which in summer becomes very animated with
explore the surrounding coasts and beaches of the archipelago. The trendy clubs and live music. The villa is located in Santa Reparata, a
Diamonds apartments are ideal for those who want a sea view life all year hamlet of Santa Teresa, known for its granite cliffs and the bay of Santa
round, on a unique island with a beautiful turquoise sea, picturesque Reparata. Very close you can also find the Coves of Santa Reparata, real
beaches and all services within walking distance. Ref 5437 natural pools, ideal for snorkelling. Ref 5451
Prices from €216,000 Contact ItaliaCasa ☎ +39 339 101 9042 Price €1,950,000 Contact ItaliaCasa ☎ +39 339 101 9042
[email protected] www.italiacasa.net [email protected] www.italiacasa.net

August/September 2023 ITALIA! 89

T HE FINAL WORD

#5
SIMONETTA
VESPUCCI
(1453-1476)
Born to Genoese nobility when the republic was still a major
player, she died young but has been immortalised in art

F
irst off, we should say that we
don’t know for sure whether the
woman depicted as Venus in Sandro
Botticelli’s Birth of Venus is actually
Simonetta Vespucci. Compared
with other works, by Botticelli and others, that
we know or suspect to be portraits of her, it
does look like her, but Botticelli’s masterpiece
wasn’t begun until eight years after Simonetta’s
death and several people have pointed out that
the idea that she was his muse for this work
is mere speculation – of the kind that ‘surely
the most sensitive artist in Florence must have
painted the city’s most beautiful model…’ But
that’s not to say it isn’t true. Or that it isn’t at
least partly true.
Botticelli did know her and did paint
her – probably several times. Simonetta, née
Cattaneo, arrived in Florence as the bride of
Marco Vespucci, a distant cousin of the explorer
Amerigo Vespucci and a member of a family
The new-born Venus
that was well ‘in’ with the Medici. Simonetta
is blown ashore by had met Marco at church in Genoa and, given
Zephyr in Botticelli’s the young suitor’s connections in Florence,
humanistic masterpiece her family was only too happy to accept his
proposal of marriage. (What the 16-year-old
Simonetta thought of the arrangement has
unfortunately not been recorded.)
They were wed within a year. Simonetta
was adored in Florence, perhaps even more so
after her untimely death from natural causes
on the night of 26-27 April 1476 at the age
of 22 or 23. Her body was carried through
the city in an open coffin and laid to rest at
San Salvatore in Ognissanti, the Vespucci
family church. Amerigo is also buried there;
as is Botticelli, who died 34 years later having
specifically requested that site – more fuel for
speculation that the woman in this image is
Detial of The Birth of Venus by Sandro Botticelli,

indeed Simonetta. But not proof: Ognissanti

Tempera on canvas (1486), 134 x 175 cm

was Botticelli’s parish church anyway.

We don’t know her birthday, nor even where
exactly she was born. The Florentine poet
Politian wrote that her home was “in that stern
Ligurian district up above the sea coast, where
angry Neptune beats against the rocks… There,
like Venus, she was born among the waves.” But
if you’ve ever been to Liguria, you’ll know that
doesn’t really narrow it down much.

90 ITALIA! August/September 2023

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