GROUP B

ELECTRICAL
 P
230V, 50Hv, AC mains
N

A LAMP CONTROLLED BY A SWITCH

SWITCH LAMP
0 OFF
1 ON

L1 L2

230V, 50Hz, Ac mains

P

Switch

TWO LAMPS CONNECTED IN SERIES

Switch L1(Lamp) L2(Lamp)

0 OFF OFF
1 ON ON
 EXP. NO.:1 HOUSE HOLD WIRING USING SWITCHES AND INDICATOR – LAMP
AIM:
1. To control the given lamp using a single switch.
2. To control two lamps connected in series using a switch.
3. To control two lamps connected in parallel using a switch.

COMPONENTS REQUIRED:

SL.No Components Quantity

1 Switch 1 No
2 Test Lamp 2 No
3 3 pin socket(5A) 1 no
4 Connecting wires As
required
5 Wire man’s tool kit

PROCEDURE
1. The total lighting load in a sub circuit, should not be more than 800W or ten points whicheveris
less. The maximum power load in a sub circuit is not to exceed 2000W or two points whichever is
less.
2. Every appliance must be controlled by a switch
3. The switch should be on the live conductor
4. Every socket output must also be controlled by a switch
5. All incandescent lamps are to be at least 2.5m above and ceiling fans 2.75 m above floorlevel.
6. All the metal covering (covers of the main switch, paper, brackets fans etc.,) should be
earthed.
7. The light and power wiring should be separate.
8. Every sub- circuit must have a separate distribution fuse.

9. The switch and starters of the motor should be easily accessible.

THEORY:
Series Circuit: The series circuit provides a single, continuous path through which current flows.
In this the devices are connected one after another and the current flows through them until it
returns to the power source.
 S2
S1

TWO LAMPS CONNECTED IN PARALLEL

Switch 1 2
S1 – 0
S2 – 1 OFF ON
S1 – 1
ON OFF
S2 - 0
Parallel Circuit: In parallel circuit the device are connected side-by-side so that,current flows in a number
of parallel path.

RESULT:
Thus the lamps are connected in series and parallel by using a switch.
Circuit Diagram for Tube light:
 EXP. NO. : 2 FLUORESCENT LAMP WIRING

AIM:
To make connections of a fluorescent tube and to study the accessories of the same

COMPONENTS REQUIRED:

SL.No Components Quantity

1 Fluorescent tube light
1 set(40 W,240 V)
fitting
2 2 way connector 1 No
3 PVC copper cables As required
4 Wood Screws 2 Nos
5 Test Lamp 1 No
6 Wire man‟s tool Kit

PROCEDURE:
1. Make connections as shown in the figure.
2. Assemble the fluorescent light accessories like starter holder, holder for tube and choke in
the fitting base with the help of screws.
3. Fix in the holder to light it and switch ON the supply, the lamp will glow.
4. Switch off the supply.
THEORY:
ASSEMBLY OF FLUORESCENT TUBE:
I. Assemble the fluorescent tube accessories like starter holder, holder for tube and
chokein the fitting base with the help of screws.
II. Finally the tube is fixed in the tube holder to light it.

General Operation:
When the lamp is first turned on, the current travels through the path of least resistance,
which is through the bypass circuit, and across the starter switch. This current then passes
through the circuit heating up the filament in each electrode, which are located at both ends
of the tube (these electrodes are simple filaments, like those found in incandescent light
bulbs). This boils off electrons from the metal surface, sending them into the gas tube,
ionizing the gas. The mercury vapor becomes "excited" and it generates radiant energy,
mainly in the ultraviolet range. This energy causes the phosphor coating on the inside of the
tube to fluoresce, converting the ultraviolet into visible light.
The Starter:
The starter is basically a time delay switch. Its job is to let the current flow through to the
electrodes at each end of the tube, causing the filaments to heat up and create a cloud of
electronsinside the tube. The starter then opens after a second or two. The voltage across the
tube allows a stream of electrons to flow across the tube and ionize the mercury vapor.
Without the starter, a steady stream of electrons is never created between the two filaments,
and the lamp flickers.

The Ballast:
The ballast works mainly as a regulator. They consume, transform, and control electrical
power for various types of electric-discharge lamps, providing the necessary circuit
conditions for starting and operating them. In a fluorescent lamp, the voltage must be
regulated because the current in the gas discharge causes resistance to decrease in the tube.
The AC voltage will cause the current to climb on its own. If this current isn‟t controlled, it
can cause the blow out of various components.
Newer Designs:
Today, the most popular fluorescent lamp design is the “rapid start” lamp. This design works
the same as the basic design described above, but it doesn't have a starter switch. Instead,
the lamp's ballast constantly channels current through both electrodes. This current flow is
configured so that there is a charge difference between the two electrodes, establishing a
voltage across the tube.
Another method used in instant-start fluorescent lamps, is to apply a very high initial
voltage to the electrodes. This high voltage creates a corona discharge, which causes an
excess ofelectrons on the electrode surface that forces some electrons into the gas. These free
electrons ionize the gas, and almost instantly the voltage difference between the electrodes
establishes an electrical arc.

RESULT:
Thus the fluorescent lamp circuit is studied and assembled.
SWITCH POSITION:
SWITCH 1 SWITCH 2 LAMP POSITION
1 1‟ ON
1 2‟ OFF
2 2‟ ON
2 1‟ OFF
 EXP. NO.: 3 STAIRCASE WIRING

AIM:

To control a single lamp from two different places

COMPONENTS REQUIRED:

SL.No Components Quantity

1 Incandescent Lamp 1(230 V,40W)
2 Two way switches 2
3 Lamp holder 1
4 Connecting Wires As required
5 PVC Pipes As required
6 L-Joint As required
7 Clamp and screws As required
8 Mounting block. As required
9 Wire man tool kit

PROCEDURE:
1. Give the connections as per the circuit diagram
2. Verify the connections
3. Switch on the supply
4. Verify the conditions

THEORY:

1. A two way switch is installed near the first step of the stairs. The other two way switch
is installed at the upper part where the stair ends.
2. The light point is provided between first and last stair at an adequate location and height
if the light is switched on by the lower switch. It can be switched off by the switch at the
top orvice versa.
3. The circuit can be used at the places like bed room where the person may not have to
travel for switching off the light to the place from where the light is switched on.
4. Two number of Two-way switches are used for the purpose. The supply is given to the
switch at the short circuited terminals.
5. The connection to the light point is taken from the similar short circuited terminal of the
second switch. Other two independent terminals of each circuit are connected through
cables.
RESULT:
Thus the staircase wiring was done using two way switch.
EXP. NO. : 4 RESIDENTIAL HOUSE WIRING USING SWITCHES, FUSE, INDICATOR, LAMP, FAN
AND ENERGY METER
AIM:
To construct residential house wiring using switches, fuse, indicator, lamp, Fan and Energy meter.
APPARATUS REQUIRED:
S. No. Apparatus Name Range / Type Quantity
SPST Switch (Single Pole Single
1 5A 1
Through)
2 Fuse 5A 1
3 Indicator 5A 1
4 Lamp 60 W 1
5 Fan 1
6 Energy meter 300V,5A 1
7 Connecting wires As required

PROCEDURE:
1. Study the given wiring diagram.
2. Make the location points for energy meter, fuse, indicator, main switch box, switch
board,lamp and ceiling rose.
3. Draw the lines for wiring on the wooden board.
4. Place the wires along with the line and fix.
5. Fix the bulb holder, Switches, Ceiling rose, Socket in marked positions on the wooden
board.
6. Connect the energy meter and main switch box in marked positions on the wooden board.
7. Give a supply to the wires circuit.
8. Test the working of light and socket.

THEORY:
Conductors, switches and other accessories should be of proper capable of carrying the maximum
current which will flow through them. Conductors should be of copper or aluminum. In power
circuit, wiring should be designed for the load which it is supposed to carry. Wiring should be
done on the distribution system with main and branch distribution boards at convenient centers.
Wiring should be neat with good appearance. Wires should pass through a pipe or box and should
not twist or cross. The conductor is carried in a rigid steel conduit conforming to standards or in
a porcelain tube.

RESULT:

Thus the residential wiring connections are made for the given components and executed
successfully.
 EXP. NO. : 5 STUDY OF IRON BOX WIRING AND ASSEMBLY

AIM:

To study about the iron box wiring and assembly.

THEORY:

Ironing is the use of a heated tool (an iron) to remove wrinkles from clothes. The heating is
commonly done to a temperature of 180–220 °Celsius, depending on the fabric. Ironing works
by loosening the bonds between the long-chain polymer molecules in the fibres of the cloth. The
fibres are straightened by the weight of the iron while the molecules are hot, and they hold their
new shape as they cool.
Some fabrics, such as cotton, require the addition of water to loosen the intermolecular bonds.
Many modern fabrics (developed in or after the mid-twentieth century) are advertised as needing
little or no ironing. Permanent press clothing was developed to reduce the ironing necessary by
combining wrinkle-resistant polyester with cotton.
ELECTRIC IRON BOX:
The electric iron was invented in 1882, by Henry W. Seeley. Seeley patented his “electric flatiron”
on June 6, 1882 (U.S. Patent no. 259,054). It weighed almost 15 pounds and took a long time to
heat. The early electric irons had no easy way to control their temperature, and the first
thermostatically controlled electric iron appeared in the 1920s. Later, steam was
used to iron clothing.
IRON BOX – WORKING PRINCIPLE:
The basic principle on which the electric iron works is that when a current is passed through a
piece of wire, the wire heats up. Nichrome alloy is used in an Electric Iron as a heating Element. It
is an alloy of Nickel and Chromium with 80 % Nickel and 20 % Chromium. It has a high melting
Point of 1400 degree Celsius. Nichrome is best known for its heat resistance, as well as its
resistance to both corrosion and oxidation, the alloy is incredibly useful for a number of
applications such as hair dryers, Water heaters and heat guns etc.
This heat is distributed to the sole (base) plate of the electric iron through conduction which is
pressed against the clothing to make it wrinkle free.
Thermostat made of bimetallic strip inside helps it control the temperature of the base plate.
Bimetallic strip consists of a strip of brass in contact with a strip of iron. At normal room
temperature, the two strips have the same length. However, since brass expands (or contracts)
more than iron when its temperature is raised (or cooled), the bimetallic strip will bend one way
or another depending on the temperature being above or below room temperature.

RESULT:

Thus the study of iron box wiring and assembly has been studied.
 EXP. NO. : 6 STUDY OF FAN REGULATOR

AIM:

To study about the Fan Regulator.

THEORY:

Fan regulator is a very much usable electrical or electronic device. We are all using the fan
regulator in our house with Fan. Fan Regulator is a device by which we can control the speed of
rotation of the fan. Today we are going to know how fan regulator works, fan regulator internal
circuit and Fan Regulator Connection Diagram.
HOW CONVENTIONAL FAN REGULATOR WORKS?

This is Old Fan Regulator. As you see in the below figure, the construction of a conventional fan
regulator is very simple. There is some series connected resistance that can be adjusted by
rotating the knob of the regulator. This conventional fan regulator is to be connected in series with
the fan and power supply. By moving the knob we can increase or decrease the resistance value.
If we increase the value of resistance the voltage drop across the resistor will be increased so the
voltage across the fan motor will be decreased and ultimately the speed of the fan will be
decreased and Vice-versa.

The disadvantage of Conventional Fan Regulator is that it causes a huge amount of heat loss or
I2R loss because there are a number of resistors and that cause’s heat loss across the resistors
and eventually this reduces the life of this regulator and also it affects your electricity bill so.
HOW DOES ELECTRONIC FAN REGULATOR WORK?
To reduce power loss nowadays electronic fan regulator is mostly used. Electronic fan regulator
uses semiconductor devices.

An electronic fan regulator has the following parts,

1. TRIAC
2. DIAC
3. Capacitor
4. Fixed resistor
5. Variable resistor or Potentiometer

As you see in the below figure the TRIAC is connected in series with the Fan and the supply. The
TRIAC can conduct AC current when a pulse signal is given to the gate terminal of the TRIAC. Here
the DIAC is used to trigger the TRIAC. First, the capacitor will be charged through the fixed and
variable resistor resistors. When the capacitor is fully charged it starts discharging through the
DIAC. Now the TRIAC will be triggered and it starts conducts, therefore, the current will flow from
the supply through the TRIAC and the fan.
Actually, the TRIAC remain ON for a short time duration and remain OFF for a short time duration
according to the charging and discharging of the Capacitor. This process causes reduce the value
of the average voltage across the Fan and ultimately the speed of the fan will be decreased.
The variable resistor or potentiometer is used to change the time constant of the capacitor. That
means when we increase the resistance by moving the potentiometer knob the charging time of
the capacitor will be increased and this causes the TRIAC to remain OFF for more time. This
process causes to more decrease the value of the average voltage across the fan and the speed of
the fan also more decreased.

The fixed resistor is used to protect the capacitor from the full voltage. That means if we did not
use the fixed resistor the full voltage will appear across the capacitor if we decrease the variable
resistance to zero that may damage the capacitor

INTERNAL CIRCUIT OF FAN REGULATOR:

Here the internal circuit diagram of an electronic fan regulator shown below
RESULT:

Thus the study of Fan Regulator has been studied.

 EXP. NO. : 7 STUDY OF EMERGENCY LAMP WIRING

AIM:

To study about the emergency lamp wiring.

THEORY:

Emergency lighting is used in an urgent situation like when the main supply is disconnected or
regular electrical light fails. So the sudden electricity loss could result in a fire otherwise a power
cut. This lighting system is used in buildings and it includes a battery to activate the light
automatically once the power failure occurs. In the emergency situation, these lights play a key
role to provide safety for residents. If the power failure occurs, an emergency light can activate
with the help of batteries to visually show the route safely for residents to leave from the building.

WHAT IS AN EMERGENCY LIGHT & HOW IT WORKS?

Definition: An emergency light is used to automatically turn ON a lamp which is operated by a

battery. It stops the user from being into a difficult situation because of unexpected darkness and
helps the user to get access to make an instantaneous emergency light. This circuit uses light-
emitting diodes in its place of the incandescent lamps; therefore making the circuit is very power
efficient as well as brighter with its light o/p. In addition, the circuit uses an innovative theory to
enhance the economical characteristic of the unit.
Emergency lights are connected to the electrical supply of the building. Each light has its own
circuit. These lights include a battery so that it works like a backup power supply once the building
loses its power supply. Here, the lifespan of a battery is short when we compare it with other kinds
of lighting systems. So all the emergency lights must be checked to make sure the battery can give
emergency light for a minimum of 90 minutes. These tests are necessary to check the performance
of the battery every six months with professionals.

HOW DO EMERGENCY LIGHTS APPEAR?

There are different kinds of lights available in the market in different sizes and shapes. Each light
is designed based on the application. There are some common emergency lighting systems used
in buildings are

 Exit Lights
 Batten Lights
 Oyster Lights
 Spot fire Lights

HOW TO MAKE AN EMERGENCY LIGHT / DIY EMERGENCY LIGHT.

The DIY emergency light can be designed in a step by step process like the following. The required
components of the 12v emergency light circuit diagram mainly include LDR,
50K VR, 10K Resistor, BD139 & BD140 transistor, 33ohm resistor, and white LED and 12V battery.
Connect the circuit on the breadboard as per the diagram shown below using the above
components.
In this circuit, the LDR based light will activate a high watt white LED once there is dark in the
room. It can be used as a simple lamp in the children’s room to keep away from the panic condition
once the power gets fail. This circuit gives sufficient light in the room.

The design of this circuit is very easy so that it can be arranged in a little box. As a power source,
a 12 V small battery is used to provide the supply to the circuit. The transistors like T1 & T2 are
used as electronic switches for switching ON/OFF the white LEDs.

When there is enough light within the room, then LDR activates so that the base terminal of the
T1 transistor will become high. The remaining transistor-like T2 also turns off as its base terminal
is grounded. In this condition, the white LED will turn off. Once the light dropping over the LDR
decreases, then the T1 transistor in forwarding bias will provide base current to transistor ‘T2’.
This ‘T2’ transistor will turn on to make the white LED ON.

Here, the LED is 1 watt high bright Luxeon diode. It uses approximately 300 mA current. So it is
better to turn off the lamp to save the power in a battery after a few minutes
RESULT:

Thus the study of emergency lamp wiring has been studied.

 EXP. NO. : 8 STUDY OF WATER HEATER

AIM:

To study about the water heater.

THEORY:

The electric heaters used to heat up water are called electric water heater. It is of three (3)
type’s i.e.
1. Normal Plate Heater,
2. Immersion Heater,
3. Geyser Heater.
NORMAL PLATE HEATER:
It is used for heating a small amount of water, such as water for shaving etc. Its construction is
very simple. It consists of two round shaped nickel plates separated by a gap of 2 mm with an
insulator.

PRECAUTIONS ABOUT NORMAL PLATE HEATER:

1. This type of heater is very dangerous. While using this heater one should always keep on
watching that it does not come into contact with any metallic substance.
2. Do never try to immerse your finger in the water to check the warmness of the water.
IMMERSION WATER HEATER:
The electric heater which is immersed in water for heating the water is called Immersion Heater.
In market from 250 watt to 2.0 kilo watt immersion heaters are available. The body is made of
metallic substance, and the heating element is made of copper which is installed inside a capillary
tube. The tube is found in ‘U’ or Coil shape. The capillary tube is filled with magnesium oxide which
works as insulator. Both the end of the tube is sealed. The supply connection is given through 3
pin socket and plug
FAULT AND ITS CAUSES OF IMMERSION HEATER:

FAULT CAUSE

1. The fuse, element or conductor of the

immersion heater is disconnect or
1. The rod of Immersion heater does not get
dislocated.
heated.
2. There may be non-supply of A.C. in
the socket.

1. Due to leakage in immersion rod.

2. The rod of Immersion heater does not get
2. Due to disconnection of natural or
heated but gives shock.
earth line.

1. Excessive flow of current.

3. The heating element of the immersion rod
2. The wire or mica may be broken and
gets frequently burn.
touched with the metallic body.

PRECAUTIONS ABOUT IMMERSION HEATER:

1. Without immersing the water heater in water, supply cannot be given.
2. One should not touch the immersion rod when supply is ON.
3. Before removing the immersion rod from water it should be disconnect from the plug
socket.
4. The water filled bucket should not be touched while the supply is ON.
5. Except water no other liquid substance should be heated by immersion heater.

GEYSER HEATER:
The basic principle water geyser is not very complex one. It is simple. Here electric heating
element is used to heat up the water stored in a storage tank. The only difference from normal
immersion type water heater, that it can automatically control the temperature the water by
controlling the operating period of the heating elements associated with the geyser which cannot
be possible in normal immersion type water
 heater.

Geyser heater is used for large quantity of water. Generally, from 20 ltr. to 90 ltr. capacity geysers
are found in the market. In the storage tank, one or two heaters are fixed. For supplying of cold or
hot water, specific pipe lines are fitted with the storage tank. That means there are inlet cold water
and outlet hot water pipe. To control the flow of water, a valve is installed in the pipeline. To
control the heat one thermostat switch is there. The switch gets automatically OFF to avoid misuse
of heat. The entire body of the geyser is insulted. When the geyser storage tank is filled up, the
water starts flowing through an overflow pipe, and then the inlet valve gets automatically OFF. An
anode rod made of aluminium or magnesium is screwed in the storage tank to reduce corrosion
of metal body and metal parts of the water storage and supply system. This is because the metal
of anode rod is more sensitive to corrosive reactions than the metal of the body structure of the
system. Body of the storage tank is generally made of steel. As aluminium or magnesium is
corroded faster, it makes the water soften before it can corrode the steel.

RESULT:

Thus the study of water heater has been studied.

 GROUP B
ELECTRONICS
 EXP. NO. : 9 SOLDERING PRACTICE – COMPONENTS DEVICE AND CIRCUITS
AIM:
To assemble and solder the electronic components on a printed circuit board for the given Circuit.

APPARATUS REQUIRED:

S. No. Components Quantity

1. Soldering rod, Soldering lead, 1
2. Flux. 1

3. Resistor. As per Circuit.

4. Capacitor. As per Circuit.

5. Signal generator 1

PROCEDURE:

FOR ASSEMBLING ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS IN PCB BOARD:

1. Study the given electronic circuit.
2. The master pattern of PCB is made on a thick sheet with a reverse carbon placed
under totake the mirror image on reverse side of the sheet.
3. Clean the copper side of the PCB with alcoholic spirit or petrol in order to make it
freefrom dust and contaminations.
4. The mirrors image of pattern is copied to the base laminate on the board with the
help ofball point pen. Holes position should be marked carefully.
5. The copied track is marked with the help of enamel point or use silver pen.
6. The board is dipped in a solution of FeCl3 for some time to remove the excess copper
thenit should be cleaned under running water and it should be dried.
7. The marker ink/Point is removed with the help of alcohol or petrol.
8. Using a driller, holes of suitable diameter are drilled on the board and then clean
the hole.
9. Varnish coating is given on the PCB in order to prevent the oxidation.
10. Using Continuity tester, the board is tested for continuity.

SOLDERING SIMPLE ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS:

A printed circuit board (PCB) consists of copper strips and pads bonded to a plastic
board.The copper strip is the network of interconnecting conductive path. Leads of
components mounted on the board are inserted through holes on the board and the
conductive copper. These leads are soldered to the copper at the end of the hole. If
excessive heat is applied to copper, it may get lifted from the board or the
components on the board get damaged. Soldering pencil gun of about 30 Watts is
used to heat the junction. The surface of copper bonded to the board should be
properly prepared and cleaned before soldering. Flux is applied on circuits and
component leads.
Check the conductive strips and pads on the board before soldering. Avoid excess
solder to prevent two copper paths from bridging. When solder globules form on the
junction area, remove them by cleaning the soldering tip using a cloth.

THEORY:
Printed circuit board is the base plate over which all components are mounted and
soldered. The inter connection between the components made by in metallic tracks.
Etching process in PCB removes all the excess copper from the base lamination. After
this only the printed pattern is left behind. A solution of 75 degree Celsius heated tap
water and ferric chloride is used to remove the excess copper. The above said
solution thoroughly surrounded and speeded up the process few drops of HCL be
added.

RESULT:

Thus, the electronic components via resistor and capacitor were joined through
soldering andcontinuity of a circuit is checked successfully.
 EXP. NO. : 10 STUDY AN ELEMENTS OF SMART PHONE

AIM:

To study about the elements of smart phone.

THEORY:

Modern smartphones are marvels of technology, and it is really impressive how much
technology is crammed into such a compact device. Find out what it takes to build a
functional smartphone.
Any product that a customer holds in their hands is certainly the result of many
compromises made to satisfy many conflicting requirements. Let’s look at the
compromises that arise when developing a modern smartphone.
Let’s say a company’s marketing team wants a thin, lightweight product with a dazzling
display, that will work on all cellular standards, has a very low BOM cost, and lasts a very
long time on one charge.
The electrical team, meanwhile, has to engineer all the required functionality while using
the least amount of energy to run everything.
On the other hand, the mechanical team has to find ways to fit all the electrical subsystems
into the required space while providing an end-product that is sturdy enough to not bend
or fly into pieces when causally dropped.
At the same time, the firmware team is working away at interfacing with the various
electrical subsystems on the one hand, and the User Interface on the other hand.

TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL BLOCK DIAGRAM:

Figure shows a very high-level, functional block diagram of a typical smartphone. It

consists of a few sub-systems that are found in all smartphones.
Of course, what each of these sub-systems consists of, varies among smartphones.
At the core is the processor sub-system that coordinates everything in the phone as well
as runs the User Interface and applications. The RF sub-system contains the RF front-end,
antennas and modem, and is the section responsible for all wireless functionalities.
The display sub-system is what the user initially notices about the smartphone since it is
such a visibly large part of the entire device. The peripheral sub-system is what users
would consider to be features of the phone. It includes such things as cameras, fingerprint
scanner, audio, GPS, accelerometer and other similar components.
 Major functional blocks of a typical smartphones
Finally, there is the battery and power management sub-system. It is, of course,
responsible for storing and then providing power to the entire phone. Runtime is one of
the key aspects a typical user considers when buying a smartphone.
In an actual smartphone, in order to cram all these sub-systems into the available space,
many portions of these sub-systems are actually implemented on a single mainboard.
This includes most everything except the actual display, the antennas, the peripherals,
and the battery.
PROCESSOR:
At the heart of the smartphone hardware is the system processor. In modern
smartphones, this is mainly based on a System On a Chip, or SoC, that integrates more
than just the processor.
This SoC is by far the most complex component in the entire smartphone since it
encompasses as much as possible in order to save space. This SoC, and what it actually
does, differs from one smartphone to another.
Here is a look at one of them: the Qualcomm Snapdragon 855. It is used in a variety of
smartphones, including the Samsung Galaxy S10/S10+.
Additional components that are part of the processor sub-system consist of external
memory, both volatile and flash. These, together with the processor SoC, are on the same
motherboard, usually under a metal can that is used as an EMI (ElectroMagnetic
Interference) shield.

DISPLAY:
A smartphone display is usually sourced as a complete sub-assembly that is then
incorporated in the product. That’s mainly because these are complex products that
require large investments to design and manufacture. So, only a very limited number of
companies such as Samsung, LG Display and a few others make the kind of displays
currently used in smartphones.
The type of display found in modern phones is the Active Matrix Organic LED, or
AMOLED. Not to be confused with LCD’s with OLED backlights, AMOLED displays offer
very high contrast ratios, high dynamic range, fast refresh rates and wide viewing angles,
all in a very thin, and even flexible display.
In addition to the actual display element, the whole assembly also contains drivers and
interface electronics such as MIPI. The touchscreen interface is also built-in. This, in turn,
offloads the low-level task of actually displaying an image from the processor’s GPU
(Graphical Processing Unit).

RF SECTION:
There are many different cellular communication standards, and smartphones have to
support the latest standards. Additionally, a smartphone must be able to support
previous generations of cellular standards.
This makes for a very large combination of modulation schemes. For example, even the
latest smartphones still support the very early GSM/EDGE and CDMA standards. This is
accomplished by a multi-standard modem that, in modern phones, is part of the
processor SoC.
There is, however, more to the implementation of cellular communication than just the
modem. For one thing, different countries have different frequency bands for cellular
communications. Universal, or quad-band, phones can communicate on any one of these
four current cellular bands: 850MHz, 900MHz, 1800MHz, 1900 MHz.
This is accomplished by having the modem implement the baseband communication
protocol, and then upconverting this baseband modulated signal to one of the four
worldwide cellular bands.
This step requires precise, low-drift oscillators like Temperature Controlled Crystal
Oscillators, or TCXO’s. The fact that the phone can transmit and receive on multiple bands
means that multiple antennas are needed. However, it isn’t practical to have one antenna
for transmitting and one for receiving for each of these bands.
So, part of the RF sub-system consists of diplexers, duplexers and RF switches that allow
the RF antenna to be tuned to the required band, and also be able to transmit and receive
signals at the same time.
Finally, an important function of the RF sub-system is to have an accurate Receive Signal
Strength Indicator, or RSSI. Not only are some modulation schemes dependent on the
strength of the received signal, but the RSSI is also used to tailor the transmit power.
For instance, there is no point wasting battery power transmitting at full power if the user
is very close to a cellular tower.
In modern phones, the RF sub-system components, except for the antennas, are also on
the motherboard under their own EMI shielding cans.

POWER MANAGEMENT SYSTEM:

The smartphone runs off battery power. This battery must power the entire smartphone.
It also has to be charged, so a charging system has to be included in the device.
The many sub-systems in a smartphone require multiple supply voltages. Operating at
the lowest voltage an active component can reliably operate at, saves power.
The battery voltage is not constant, and will drop depending on how discharged the
battery is. All of this means that multiple voltage regulators are required to supply these
various supply rails.
Most of these are switching regulators with high energy conversion efficiencies. However,
some need to be linear regulators in cases where power supply ripples cannot be
tolerated.
This is especially required in the receive sections of the RF sub-system where the
received input signal level can be very low if the phone is far from the nearest cellular
tower, or is indoors. All of these functions are provided by the power management sub-
system.
All smartphones use li-ion batteries. These need special charging methods and they also
need to be protected against electrical abuse, such as over-charging and short circuits.
These are also achieved by the power management sub-system. It manages the externally
provided power, whether through a physical charging port such as USB or a wireless
charging coil, and safely charges the battery.
Then, there is the battery itself. It is the largest component of the entire electrical sub-
system, and is usually custom-designed to fit in the allocated volume of the device.

PERIPHERALS:
While some peripherals such as accelerometers are usually found on the mainboard itself,
most are located off board. These external peripherals are typically sourced as
independent modules that are all connected to the mainboard by flex PCBs with low-
profile connectors.
They include front and back cameras, speakers, microphone, fingerprint scanner, haptic
devices, and a variety of sockets and adapters for removable items such as SIM card, SD
card and earphones.

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER:

Since most of the electrical functionality is actually built into a single mainboard, this calls
for a very dense and highly complex PCB. Having components on both sides of the PCB is
a given.
In some devices the mainboard is actually made up of two separate PCB’s that are stacked
together, effectively providing four surfaces where components can be placed. Even then,
the complexity of the routing is such that 10-layer or 12-layer PCB‘s, with blind and
buried vias, are used.
The shape of the mainboard is dictated by the need for it to be routed around the battery
cavity and the placement of some peripherals. For instance, the cameras are on the top
part of the device, and these cannot be moved to any other area.
The speaker has to have a mechanical baffle that enhances the low-frequency range of the
usually small speaker. Yet another aspect to consider is the need for heat management.
This typically requires some form of heat spreader for the hotter components on the
board.
Finally, as mentioned earlier, this mainboard has a lot of low-profile connectors that
connect to the peripherals and the display.
To literally hold everything together, a smartphone needs a frame onto which all the sub-
modules described so far are attached. This is invariably a metal frame, usually
aluminium that is either cast or milled from a single block of metal.
This backbone is what gives the device its rigidity, and ensures that the phone will not
bend if it is sat on, or physically stressed.

TESTING AND CERTIFICATIONS:

Before the phone is released for sale, the manufacturer has to ensure that certain safety,
performance and reliability standards are met. This section provides a brief overview of
some of these.
The safety testing is primarily centered around two areas. The first is battery safety. The
safety of the battery is something that cannot be fully specified at the component level
alone.
There are safety standards that the battery must pass itself, but the overall safety also
depends on external electronic as well as mechanical protection. The phone has to be
electrically and mechanically stressed to ensure that it is safe.
The second safety aspect is Specific Absorption Rate, or SAR. Since the phone generates
RF energy, and is sometimes placed near the user’s head, the SAR test is performed to
ensure that the amount of energy absorbed by the user’s soft tissues during a phone call
meets established standards.
In the worst cases, the antennas may have to be relocated, or the maximum RF power has
to reduce.
As for performance, most testing is done on the individual sub-system prior to being
specified for use in the design. These include items like the display and the camera.
However, some tests can only be done once the prototype unit is built-up. These include
things such as antenna de-tuning and RF receive sensitivity.
Of course, the phone also has to meet emissions standards, such as FCC, before it can be
made available for sale.
Finally, for reliability testing the prototype phone is subjected to vibration, drop and
tumble tests, temperature shocks, humidity exposure, and electrostatic discharge tests to
ensure continued operation under all these conditions.
RESULT:

Thus the study of elements of smart phone has been studied.

 EXP. NO. : 11 ASSEMBLY AND DISMANTLE OF LED TV

AIM:

To study assemble and dismantle of LED TV.

DIASSEMBLY AND REASSEMBLY:

CAUTION: 1. Disconnect the LED TV from the power source before disassembly.
2. Follow these instructions carefully: never use metal instruments to pry
apart the cabinet.
RESULT:

Thus the study of assemble and dismantle of LED TV has been studied.
 EXP. NO. : 12 ASSEMBLY AND DISMANTLE OF COMPUTER/ LAPTOP

AIM:

To study assemble and dismantle of COMPUTER/ LAPTOP.

DIASSEMBLY AND REASSEMBLY:

PARTS OF COMPUTER SYSTEM:
The computer system is made up of following external devices:
 CPU cabinet
 Monitor
 Keyboard
 Mouse
 Printer/scanner (if attached)

HOW TO DISASSEMBLE A COMPUTER:

Follow these seven steps carefully.
Step 1: Detach the Power Cable
The disassembling of the computer system starts with externally connected device
detachment. Make sure the computer system is turned off, if not then successfully shut
down the system and then start detaching the external devices from the computer
system. It includes removing the power cable from electricity switchboard, then remove
the cable from SMPS (switch mode power supply) from the back of the CPU Cabinet. Do
not start the disassembling without detaching the power cable from the computer
 system. Now remove the remaining external devices like keyboard, mouse, monitor,
printer or scanner from the back of CPU cabinet.
Step 2: Remove the Cover
The standard way of removing tower cases used to be to undo the screws on the back of
the case, slide the cover back about an inch and lift it off. The screwdrivers as per the type
of screw are required to do the task.
Step 3: Remove the Adapter Cards
Make sure if the card has any cables or wires that might be attached and decide if it would
be easier to remove them before or after you remove the card. Remove the screw if any,
that holds the card in place. Grab the card by its edges, front and back, and gently rock it
lengthwise to release it.
Step 4: Remove the Drives
Removing drives is easier. There can be possibly three types of drives present in your
computer system, Hard disk drive, CD/DVD/Blu-ray drives, floppy disk drives (almost
absolute now a day). They usually have a power connector and a data cable attached from
the device to a controller card or a connector on the motherboard. CD/DVD/Blu-ray drive
may have an analog cable connected to the sound card for direct audio output.
The power may be attached using one of two connectors, a Molex connector or a Berg
connector for the drive. The Molex connector may require to be wiggled slightly from side
to side and apply gentle pressure outwards. The Berg connector may just pull out or it
may have a small tab which has to be lifted with a screwdriver.
Now pull data cables off from the drive as well as motherboard connector. The hard disk
drive and CD/DVD drives have two types of data cables. IDE and SATA cables. The IDE
cables need better care while being removed as it may cause the damage to drive
connector pins. Gently wiggle the cable sideways and remove it. The SATA cables can be
removed easily by pressing the tab and pulling the connector straight back.
Now remove the screws and slide the drive out the back of the bay.
Step 5: Remove the Memory Module
Memory modules are mounted on the motherboard as the chips that can be damaged by
manual force if applied improperly. Be careful and handle the chip only by the edges.
SIMMs and DIMMs are removed in a different way:
 SIMM - Gently push back the metal tabs while holding the SIMM chips in the socket. Tilt
the SIMM chip away from the tabs until a 45% angle. It will now lift out of the socket. Put
SIMM in a safe place.
 DIMM - There are plastic tabs on the end of the DIMM sockets. Press the tabs down and
away from the socket. The DIMM will lift slightly. Now grab it by the edges and place it
safely. Do not let the chips get dust at all.
Step 6: Remove the Power Supply
The power supply is attached into tower cabinet at the top back end of the tower. Make
sure the power connector is detached from the switchboard. Start removing the power
connector connected to motherboard including CPU fan power connector, cabinet fan, the
front panel of cabinet power buttons and all the remaining drives if not detached yet.
Now remove the screws of SMPS from the back of the cabinet and the SMPS can be
detached from the tower cabinet.
Step 7: Remove the Motherboard
Before removing all the connectors from the motherboard, make sure you memorize the
connectors for assembling the computer if required, as that may require connecting the
connectors at its place. Remove the screws from the back of the motherboard and you
will be able to detach it from the cabinet. Now remove the CPU fan from the motherboard.
The heat sink will be visible now which can be removed by the pulling the tab upward.
Finally, the processor is visible now, which can be removed by the plastic tab which can
be pulled back one stretching it side way.
HOW TO ASSEMBLE A COMPUTER:
The assembling of the computer system is exactly the opposite of disassembling
operation. Before starting assembling the computer system, make sure you have the
screws and a screwdriver for those.
Step 1: Mount the Processor
The first step for assembling the computer system starts with mounting the processor on
the processor socket of the motherboard. To mount the process, you don't need to apply
any force. The special ZIF (zero insertion force) sockets are usually used to prevent any
damage to the processor pins. Once the processor is mounted, the heat sink will be
attached on top of the processor. The CPU fan is also attached on top of the heat sink.
Step 2: Fix the Motherboard in the Tower Case
Now the motherboard is to be fixed vertically in the tower case and the screws are fixed
from behind of the motherboard.
Step 3: Connect the Power Supply
Now line up the power supply at the top back end of the cabinet and screw it. The power
connectors for motherboard power supply and CPU fan power supply are to be
connected. If the cabinet cooling FAN is required then it is to be screwed at the back end
grill of the cabinet and its power connector is to be connected from SMPS.
Step 4: Install the Drives
Install the CD/DVD drives at the top front end of the cabinet and screw it. Install the Hard
disk drive and floppy disk drive below CD/DVD drive and screw it. Make sure once
screwed there is no vibration in either of the CD/DVD, hard disk or floppy disk drives.
Step 5: Connect Cables
Now select the appropriate data cable and connect one end of the cable to its drive socket
and another end at its appropriate connector on the motherboard. For SATA hard disk
drive or CD/DVD drives use SATA cable and its power cable, else use IDE data cable. Do
the proper jumper settings as per the usage requirement.
Step 6: Mount the Memory Modules
It is time now to mount the memory modules on the motherboard by aligning the RAM to
its socket on the motherboard and press it downward. Make sure the side tab are fixed
into the RAM notch. If not, you may still have to press a bit.
Step 7: Install the Internal Cards
Install the internal cards to its socket and attach the cables or power cable to it. The
selection of right socket or slot is required as per the type of socket.
Step 8: Cover the Tower
Cover the tower by placing it and pressing towards front side and screw it.
Step 9: Connect the External Devices and Power
Connect the external devices with CPU at its appropriate socket. It includes mouse and
keyboard at PS2 or USB connectors. Monitor at the video output socket. Connect the
power cable to the back of tower in SMPS. Plug in the power cable to the electric board.

RESULT:

Thus the study of assemble and dismantle of computer/laptop has been studied.