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 Insfrucion book for the
PFAFF Sewing Machine (Model 130)
For best results, study these instructions carefully-par-
ticularly those parts on the care of the machine. Before
leaving the factory your PFAFF was adjusted, carefully
tested, and found to be perfect in every respect. If you
follow the simple suggestions outlined here, you will
enjoy your PFAFF... find it endlessly useful.., and,
through-out the years be glad that your choice is the
finest sewing machine in the world.

I. Useful hins
to help you get the best results with your PFAFF
Use fine thread and a fine needle adjusted for loose
tension when sewing thin, light fabrics.
For ordinary lock stitch or zigzag seams, regulate the
tension so that the interlacing of upper and under threads
takes place in the center of the stitching. For making
buttonholes, stitching on buttons, eyeletting rolling
seams, and hemstitching, the tension of the under thread
should be somewhat tight, since it is desirable to have
the threads interlock more toward the underside of the
fabric.
Use unglazed thread for ordinary sewing, and soft
yarn for embroidering, darning, etc. Since these yarns
are smoother and more flexible than the hard and brittle
glazed cotton, they assure well-drawn-in stitches, thus
protecting the seams when the fabric is washed.

Skipping of stitches may be caused by:

1. Needle not having been inserted properly.
2. Using other than the recommended PFAFF Needles.
3. Needle being bent by wrong handling, or too fine
for the thread used.

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 Thread breaking may be caused by;
1. Any of the three reasons mentioned above.
2. Tension too tight.
3. Using bad or knotty thread.

Bad stitches may be caused as a result of;

1. Tensions being too loose or too tight. Both tensions
should be equal.
2. Using needles and threads that do not conform to
the thickness of the fabric. Top and bottom thread
should be the same.
3. Fluff having accumulated between the upper tension
discs, or underneath the tension spring of the bobbin
case.

Heavy working of the machine may be caused by:

1. The motor belt having become too loose after con-
stant use, therefore, not pulling properly. In that
case, the motor bracket has to be adjusted.
2. The motor belt being too tight. Do not over-tighten
it.
3. The shuttle race being obstructed by fluff, which
must be removed.
4. The machine having become clogged. Note the fol-
lowing instructions for proper oiling and cleaning.

II. To oil and clean the machine

Apply rust-proof grease on all nickel-plated and
polished parts. This done, all greased parts should be
cleaned with a clean rag. Then, apply a little PFAFF-Sew-
ing Machine Oil at the oiling points marked with arrows
in Figures 1, 2, and 3.

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 Fig. 1

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 Fig. 2

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 Fig. 3

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 After raising the presser foot, run the machine for a
little while without thread, wipe off the down-dripping
oil and apply a drop of PFAFF Sewing Machine Oil to
all points where there is friction. Make it a rule to
clean and oil the machine from time to time, especially
when it has been in constant use, or has not been used
for a long time.
VERY IMPORTANT: Before using the machine for the
first time, apply to the hook a drop of PFAFF Sewing
Machine Oil.
Keep the oil can clean.
The needle plate should be taken off frequently and
cleaned of accumulated fluff on the underside.

III. The needle

If the needle is inserted incorrectly, the top thread
will jam in the hook, and tear. The correct way to install
the needle is with the flat of the shank toward the hand
lift.
In general, follow this simple rule: Use a finer needle
for finer thread and a heavier needle for heavier thread.
IV. Feeding
If the material does not feed (move), turn presser bar
pressure screw to the right to increase the pressure.
There should be as little pressure as possible on the
presser bar-use just enough to feed the material.
Too much pressure causes excessive wear in feeder
and foot.
When in doubt, call in qualified PFAFF mechanic.
IMPORTANT-When inserting a new needle, make sure
that the needle thumb screw is loose enough to permit
you to slide the needle all the way up to the stop pin,
then way, the
tighten
in this thumb
it will screw.
cause If the needle
SKIPPING is notand
of stitches, inserted
pos-
sible needle breakage.
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 1. Threading Ale needle
Put spool on spindle, draw through hook guide 1, around
circular guide 2, around the tension discs 3, and through
check spring 4, around guides 5 and 6, and into the lower
hole of the take-up 7 down through thread guide 8 into
guide above the needle 9-and thread needle from front
to back. (Fig. 4).
2. To "t the nedie
LOOSEN lock screw above needle clamp. Insert needle
with flat shank to back, tighten lock screw-and you're
ready to sew.
3. To remove bobbin case (Fig. 5)
Turn the machine back on its hinges. Open latch in
bobbin case by grasping latch between thumb and fore-
finger (it is easier with the left hand)-and pull. The
bobbin case comes right out. To remove the bobbin,
release latch again and the bobbin will drop right out.
Practice a few times, so as to get used to this operation.

4. To wind the bobbin (Fig. 6)

For beginners it is suggested that the balance wheel
be disconnected so that the machine will not turn. For
experienced operators, the balance wheel can remain
connected if desired so that a bobbin can be wound
while sewing on a garment. Wind thread around the
bobbin a couple of times away from you. Place bobbin
on winder spindle so that the single slot fits into the pin
in the side of the winder spindle.
Place spool of thread I on either spool holder (1).
Draw thread down between tension disc 2 to the bobbin
placed on winder spindle 3. Press down on winder catch
4 to lock bobbin in winding position. Now you are ready
to wind bobbin. Turn on power until bobbin is wound. If
you do not wish to wind the bobbin to capacity, press
winder disconnect lever 5. When bobbin is full, release
is automatic.

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 V

Bt

6 I

Fig. 4

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 Fig. 5

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 Fig. 6

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 5. To replace bobbln caseo (Fig. 7)
Slip bobbin into bobbin case, and draw the thread
through the bobbin case slot 1, away from you, under
tension spring 2. Turn machine back on its hinges expos-
ing base for bobbin case. With bobbin case latch opened,
between thumb and forefinger, slip bobbin into center
hook and drop latch back. Push down bobbin case with
thumb to make sure that case is lacked in position.

Fig. 7

6. To commence Sewing
IMPORTANT-Turn wheel towards you to pickup bobbin
thread.
Allow needle to descend and rise once. The under
thread then appears in the form of a loop out of the
needle hole.
Then lower presser foot by means of presser foot
lever. Draw both upper and lower thread ends under
the presser fot and to the rear.
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 To protect presser foot and feed, never operate
machine without placing fabric under the presser foot.
With the cloth inserted and the presser foot lowerec(
turn the balance wheel toward you. At the some time,
give a slight pressure with your knee against the knee
control-or against the foot control on some portable
models.

7. To remno the work

Stop the machine. Turn the balance wheel toward you
until the take-up (see section on threading the needle) is
at its highest point. (Or turn the wheel to complete the
stitch.) Raise presser foot. (On lifting the presser foot,
the tension is automatically released.) Draw the cloth to
the rear of the needle. Cut the thread close to the
material on the thread cutter.

8. To regulate the tension of the upper thread

The tension of the upper thread is regulated by means
of tension nut (M), (Fig. 4). Turning this screw clockwise,
the tension will become tighter. Unscrewing it, counter-
clockwise, it will become looser.
Having adjusted the tension for a certain kind of
thread, (you can best judge this tension for yourself by
pulling the thread gently with your hand when you have
threaded the machine through the tension spring), just
glance at the number marked in the bell behind the ten-
sion nut, and note its relative position.
If the upper tension is too loose, the under thread will
pull down the upper thread, forming little knots or loops
as shown in Fig. 8. If the upper tension is too tight, the
under thread is drawn up, as illustrated in Fig. 9 Fig. 10
shows the locking in the two threads in the center of
the material, as a result of the proper adjustment of both
tensions.

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 Fig. 8

Fig. 9

Fig. 10

9. To regulate tension of th under thread

If the tension is too loose, take the bobbin case out of
the machine (Fig. 5), and tighten the small tension screw
(Z) in a clockwise direction with the aid of the screw
driver. If the tension is too tight, unscrew it in a counter-
clockwise direction. (Fig. 11).

10. To regulate the length of stitch

The length of the stitches is regulated by the stitch
regulator screw. (Fig. 6). In the zero-(or neutral)- posi-
tion, there is no feeding at all. The numbers above zero
are for forward stitching; the space below for reverse
stitching.
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 z
Fig. 11

Loosen regulator screw, and push up to desired posi-

tion from 1 to 5. Position one is the smallest stitch. When
you have chosen the size of stitch you want, tighten the
screw. To sew in reverse, simply push the locked screw
downward, below position zero. It will automatically sew
the some size stitch in reverse.

11. The Dial-A-Stitch

If the nose of the Dial-A-Stitch lever (G), (Fig. 12), is
on point zero of the scale, the machine is performing the
straight stitch. If you turn the lever, (G), to the left, the
,machine is doing the zigzag stitch. The width of the zig-
zag stitch is increased asthe lever, (G), is turned to the
left, bringing the width of the zigzag stitch up to a
maximum of 11/64".
If lever H (Fig. 12) is pressed against the body of the
machine, and then shifted down into position II, the ma-
chine will sew to the right of the stitch made in the nor-
.mal position. In position III, it will sew still farther to
the right, continuing the same kind of stitch for which the
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 dial is set. This is useful for applique, fancy stitching,
straight sewing, embroidery, buttonholes, and sewing on
buttons.
If the machine is not running, the shifting procedure
should not be made, or the size of the zigzag stitch
should not be changed, unless the need. is malted. Other-
wise, the needle might be bent or broken.

Fig. 12

12. To tak. opart and clean the kook (Fig. 13)

If pieces of thread, lint or dust have gotten inside the
hook, impeding the action of the machine, it is necessary
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 to remove the upper and lower parts of the bobbin case.
Turn the balance wheel so as to see clearly screws EI,
E-2, and E-3. Unscrew these, and take off the hook bow.
NOTE: Since these screws are extremely small, it is
necessary to use great care so as not to lose them.
Grasp center hook between thumb and forefinger, and
turn the balance wheel gently until the lower case slips
out. Clear out the dirt with a cloth, and put a drop of oil
on the running surface under the case. Replace lower
bobbin case. Do not force it, as It will damage the part.
Replace the hook bow, and screw the three screws back

Fig. 13
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 into position. If this is difficult, do not force it-cal'for
your mechanc. Parts damaged by force will not be
replaced free of charge.

13. To regulafe pressure of the presser fool

Screw or unscrew the bushing (V), (Fig. 4), to increase
or decrease pressure of the presser foot, and to regulate
it for the type of material used.

14. Adjusting the tension of the thread confroller spring

For embroidering and darning, ease the tension of the
thread controller spring a little more than in the case of
sewing. When working on thick or hard materials, the
tension should be tighter. To tighten the tension, turn the
lever of the tension sleeve as shown in Fig. 4.
a) indicating the position for darning and embroidering;
b) indicating the normal position;
c) indicating the position for sewing thick and hard
materials.
The direction for turning the lever is indicated by ""
for loose (light), and "F" for fast (tight).

15. The needle

Make sure that you use the PFAFF needles designed
for your mohine-Needle Series 130 R. These are finely
machined, tempered and polished steel, and are avail-
acle in sizes Ito11, for the most delicate to the heaviest
sewing.
16. To lower the feed
For darning and embroidering, the feed can be lowered
by turning the knob (X), (Fig. 6), on the front right-hand
side of the bed plate. Turn it right to lower the feed;
turn it left to raise the feed.
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 NO ATTACHMENTS ARE NEEDED for all normal sewing
and most types of fancy sewing. The PFAFF comes equip-
ped with a hinged presser foot. No. 44088 (Fig. 14), which
is used for these purposes. This should remain on your
machine most of the time. To remove it, loosen the screw,
and lift presser foot out to the left. To replace it, slip it
back into position, holding it
firmly in place between the
thumb and forefinger of the
right hand and tighten the
screw.

Fig. 14
44088 44088

dard type of presser foot,

No.45037, (Fig. 15), is inclu-
Luse ded for those who prefer to
it.
45037 45037 Fig. 15

17. Sewing on bufions (Fig. 16 and 17)

Use foot No. 46120 for sewing on two- or four-hole
buttons, for snaps, hooks and small bone or metal rings.
(Fig. 18); Lower lever H of
the Dial-A-Stitch into posi-
tion III with dial set as far to
the right as possible. Lower
the feed,

46120 46120 Fig. 16

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 Fig. 17

Fig. 18

With stitch regulator set between 1 and 2, place button

on fabric, under button foot, so that needle passes
through center of right hole of the button. Then adlust the
zigzag stitch with the dial so that the needle posses
through the center of the left hole of the button.
To fix the button to the fabric, four or five double
stitches will do. When stitching on buttons having four
holes, place the fabric with the button as far back as
necessary to permit fastening the second pair of holes,
too.
At the lost stitch, leave the needle at the right and
adjust the machine for straight stitches of which a few
will suffice to lock the stitch.
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 18. Butonholes (Fig. 19 and 20)
Screw on buttonhole foot, No. 42297. (Buttonholes can
be made with or without cord The cord used can
varied, depending on your choice, from the finest be
to
Pearl Cotton No. 5).
For corded buttonhole, draw the cord through the hole
in the buttonhole foot, towards the rear. The tension
of
the upper and under thread must be tightened to obtain
a well drawn-in stitch.
The length of the buttonhole should be marked in pencil
on the fabric.
With Dial-A-Stitch lever H in position (Fig. 12), adjust
stitch regulator between zero and one. I,Adjust the fine-
ness of the zigzag stitch with screw B, to the left
of

Fig. 19
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 the dial, according to the heaviness of cording used. if
the zigzag is set at number two, this is adequate for
most cardings.
After these preparations, the first edge is sewn to the
marked length. When this is done, leave the needle at
the right side of this edge in the fabric. Now, raise the
presser bar and swing the fabric half around, clockwise,
so that the edge now lies at the right of the needle,
parallel with the cord guide. Keep the work clean. Cut
off excess cord. This makes neater buttonholes. Then
lower the presser bar and allow the needle to make one
more stitch to the left.

Fig. 20

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 The needle is now in the fabric at the left of the cord.
Raise the needle and push lever G into its second groove
by turning it to the left. In this way, the wider zigzag
stitch for the first bar tack is set. To make the bar, four
to five zigzag stitches are necessary, and while doing
these, the fabric must be held somewhat to reduce the
forward feeding. On makinp the last stitch of the bar,
leave the needle in the fabric to the left. Then, bring the
needle up and push lever G back into its first groove
in the position in which you sewed the first edge. Now
sew edge two. Readjust the lever into the second groove
to make the second bar tack, being sure that the needle
is raised before switching the zigzag lever. This second
bar tack made, again raise the needle and push lever G
back to the farthest position on the right and make some
plain stitches to lock the threads.
The cutting of the buttonhole is made with the button-
hole knife. This must be performed with care to avoid
damaging the buttonhole threads. Insert either the nar-
row or the broad blade into the holder and fasten it by
tightening the screw.

19. Ornamental seams

For plain and straight ornamental seams use the normal
presser foot. For parallel seams use the edge stitcher
with ruler, No. 41350. By skillfully alternating straight
and zigzag stitches of varying width and length, you can
make any number of attractive patterns-especially in-
teresting as dress decorations. (Fig. 21).
An additional variety of effects is produced by alter-
nating seams to the right and left of center. (Fig. 22). To
sew left of center, push lever H up; to sew right of cen-
ter, push lever H down.
Colored thread is often used to enhance the appearance
of the work.
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 Fig. 21
20 Overedged hems
Overedged hems are very popular for trimming ladies'
and children's dresses, underwear, etc. Fold the edge as
required and baste if necessary. Then cover the folded
edge with zigzag stitches, small to ,medium-small, at a
stitch length of 1/16th inch. Cut the projecting edge off
carefully with a pair of scissors.

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 Fig. 22

An additional ornamental seam, parallel to the edging,

adds a handsome effect. (Fig. 23).

21. Applique work

Trace the design on both fabrics, with the cloth to be
appliqued extending 1/16th inch beyond the edge of the
design. Place the cutting on the fabric so that it corre-
sponds to the pattern, and baste it on.
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 Fig. 23

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 Fig. 24

Fig. 25

Follow the lines of the design with a narrow and not

too dense zigzag stitch, and cut the projecting edges off
the cutting. Then reinforce the seam with a wider and
more dense zigzag seam. (See Fig. 24 and 25).
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 If a cord is to be appliqued,
or a more raised effect is desi-
red, use the special cording foot
No. 41621. (Fig. 26). This is avail-
able at extra cost.

41621 41621 Fig. 26

22. Running on lace

This is done with the regular sewing foot, unless cord
is to be used. If so, use foot No. 41621. (Fig. 26).
With strong fabric such as linen, shirting, etc. the lace
is applied 1/16th inch from the edge, and basted on if
necessary, The edge of the lace is then covered with
zigzag stitches and the projecting fabric cut off.
In the case of finer fabrics such as voile and cambric,
the lace is sewn on with straight stitches as above des-

Fig. 27
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 cribed. Then the projecting edge of the fabric is folded
under, the double edge is covered with zigzag stitches,
and the projecting fabric cut off. In this manner, opening
of the fabric is made impossible.
If special, clean-edge lace borders are desired for
sewing curtains, bed linens, etc., a special foot, No.
41746, is available at extra cost. This curls the edge
of the fabric under as the lace is sewn on. (Fig. 27). By
holding the lace back, or letting it go forward, lace bor-
ders can be shirred or sewn on flat.

23. Even hems (Fig. 30)

Even hems are sewn by using hemming foot, No. 41246,
(Fig. 28), or with the larger hemming foot, No. 41248,
(Fig. 29), with the machine set for straight zigzag stitch.
With light tension and medium-sized zigzag stitches, the
rolled edge of the fabric remains even and smooth. With
tight tension and broad zigzag stitches an undulating
rolled hem is obtained, especially desirable in the case
of knitted silk goonds. Special effects are obtained by
using thread of different shades.

41144 441248

41246

Fig. 28 Fig. 29

24. Felling (Fig. 32)

For felling, use the felling foot No. 41242. (Fig. 31).
Place the two fabrics together so that the lower layer
projects about I/," on the right side. Then guide the two
pieces into the feller, just as when hemming. The lower
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 fabric is then folded once, and sewn to the top piece.
Now iqfold the two pieces of cloth as shown in Fig. 32,
flatten the seam, and once more guide the edge thus
formed through the feller. When felling, use the straight
lack stitch, except for thin or elastic fabrics and knitted
goods, which require a medium-sized zigzag stitch for
good strong seams.

Fig. 30

$41242 4 41242

Fig. 31 Fig. 32
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 Fig. 33
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 25. Eabrkg mand danng
Remove the presser foot and lower the feed. Raise the
presser bar, place wire clamp (A) with its bent end
wound the shank of foot screw (B); and with the short end
into hole (C) of the face plate. (Fig. 33). By lowering the
presser bar lever, the thread tension is re-established.
It is helpful to use an embroidery ring in any convenient
size. For darning, use soft, mercerized cotton No. 40 to
80 depending on the thickness of the fabric.
If large parts are to be mended, we recommend
cutting out the damaged pieces, inserting a fresh piece
of fabric, and fastening it with zigzag stitches, as shown
in Fig. 34

Fig. 34
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 26. Covered cords
Covered cords are made with the feed cover plate
and cord guide No. 41842, in addition to the cording foot,
No. 41319 with five grooves. All of these are available
at a slight extra cost.
Embroidery yarn No. 40, sewing silk, or standard sew-
ing cotton, may be used Crochet yarn No. 3 or 5 can
serve as cord.
Pass the crochet yarn through the cording guide, and
place the fabric under the presser foot. Sew the cord on
the line you have traced, with a medium zigrzag stitch.
Soft cording effects can be obtained by using a filler
thread. This, (as shown in Fig. 35), is done with smaller
zigzag stitches.

27. Ruffling
Ruffling is done with the same type of cording men-
tioned above. (See Fig. 36).
Fasten one end of the filler thread, and tighten it after
completing the seam. The fabric con now be puckered
together for uniform ruffling. The opposite end of the
cord must be fixed, to prevent the ruffling from be-
coming undone.

28. Henstitching (Fig. 37)

First draw the threads according to the pattern, just
as if hemstitching by hand. The two edges where the
threads have been drawn must now be sewn with narrow
zigzag stitches, using the regular presser foot. The length
of stitch depends on the effect you wish to bbtain. When
sewing the second edge, make sure that the same
threads are covered, and that the length of stitch is the
same as on the first edge, to assure a uniform
appearance. For this work an embroidery ring is very
useful.
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 Fig. 35

33

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 Fig. 36

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 Fig. 37

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 2.PkM# edging
Picot edging is obtained by cutting the above hem-
stitched hem along the center. (Fig. 38). This type of
edging is used to prevent the unravelling of the plain
cloth-edge.

Fig. 38

30. Railed hems

Rolled hems are produced with the aid of sewing foot
No. 46261 X 1,5 (Fig. 39). Use small zigzag stitches to
ensure a neat effect.
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 4"261 x 1,

Fig. 39 Fig. 40

31. Scalloped roiled hems (Fig, 41)

Scalloped rolled hems on knitted goods are made with
foot No. 46261 x 3, available at extra cost. The scalloped
form of the hem is the result of the wide zigzag stitch
sewn with firm tension.

Fig. 41

32. Scalloped edge (Fig. 42)

On neck pieces and lingerie strops of heavy knit goods,
the rolled hem described above is too thick. In this case,
the making of a scalloped edge with edge stitcher No.
41350 and the ruler with cording guide, No. 26862, is re-
rommended. The latter one is available at slight extra
cost.

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 Fig. 42

V. Mechanical Adjustments
(These are suggested only for those who have complete
mechanical familiarity with the machine.)
1. Settling the Height of ihe Needle Bar
Remove the face plate. Make sure dial is set on zero,
and lever (H) is set in center. Turn hand wheel until needle
bar is at lowest point. Loosen needle-bar clamp lock-
screw. Lower needle-bar until the top of the eye of the
needle is level with the top of the base of the hook. Hold
needle bar so that it does not move, and lock with
needle-bar clamp lock-screw.
Now the height of the needle bar is set, and you can
proceed with the timing of the hook.
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 2. Timing of ihe Hook
Set zigzag dial on Position 4 (widest stitch). Loosen the
two lock-screws of the hook and take off base stop.
Turn hand wheel until needle bar is on extreme left, and
at the lowest point. Bring the point of the hook around
to the needle. Hold it there and turn hand wheel in direc-
tion of rotation (towards front of machine) until the top
of the eye of the needle is approximately 1/32" below
the bottom of the point of the hook. Bring the hook as
close as possible to the needle without touching the
needle, and lock the hook in position on the hook shaft.
Replace base stop, and push it towards the front of the
machine until you ve got a least 1/32" or more clearance
between the base stop and the base. Now the hook is
timed.

Index
I. Useful hints ..................... I
II. To oil and clean the machine 2..........2
Ill. The needle ... ................. 6
IV. Feeding 6
1. Threading the needle . 7
2. To set the needle .......... .... 7
3. To remove bobbin case .... .......... 7
4. To wind the bobbin ..... ............ 7
5. To replace bobbin case ........... 11
6. To commence sewing ............. .. 11
7. To remove the work .... ............ 12
8. To regulate the tension of the upper thread . 12
9. To regulate the tension of the under thread . 13
10. To regulate the length of stitch .......... 13
11. The Dial-A-Stitch ............ 14
12. To take apart and clean the hook ....... 15

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 13. To regulate pressure of the presser foot 17
14. Adjusting the tension of the thread controller
spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
15. The needle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
16. To lower the feed . ... .... . 17
17. Sewing on buttons . . ......... 18
18. Buttonholes . 20
19. Ornamental seams . .......... 22
20. Overedged hems . . 23
21. Applique work . ...... . 25
22. Running on lace .. . 27
23. Even hems .. .. ............... ... 28
24. Felling ... .... ................. 28
25. Embroidering and darning ........... .31
26 Covered cords .... .............. .. 32
27. Ruffling . . . . . . . . . . . 32
28. Hemstitching . . . . .. . . . ... 32
29. Picot edging . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
30. Rolled hems ... ... .............. 36
31. Scalloped rolled hems .. ........... 37
32. Scalloped edge . . . ... .. . 37
V. Mechanical adjustments ..... ........... 38
1. Setting the Height of the Needle Bar . ... 38
2. Timing of the Hook ........... 39

Printed in Germany
N. 723 P 954

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 Pfaff 130 Service Tips
1. What I see most often when I get a machine in for service is that the
owner has over oiled the machine (or not oiled it at all). Over
oiling happens particularly with the motor. The oil that is used isn't
sewing machine oil which has a specific weight and viscosity that
makes it perfect for a sewing machine. Too much oil will ultimately
cause a build up of grime and cause components to wear faster. The
motor becomes gummed up and eventually does not make good
contact between the brushes and the commutator. So, I recommend
that the motor be oiled no more than twice a year using only ONE
DROP at the front and at the rear of the motor. If you are sewing every
day for several hours per day, oil the main moving components at least
once a week. Using the machine maybe a couple of times a week calls
for oiling once a month. Less use than this, oil once every 3 months.
Just use common sense when oiling and be prudent with how much oil
you use.

2. Always check your machine by turning the balance wheel by hand

every now and then to see if it is free and smooth. Most often people
tighten the motor belt much too tight. Loosen the motor bracket just so
the belt slips a little, then take a little slack out (just tighten a bit more)
then tighten the motor bracket. You may think it is going to slip but if set
correctly it won't. If it does just tighten it bit more.

3. Keep the rotating hook area clean from thread and fuzz. If this is
allowed to build up you will start having all sorts of problems from
skipping stitches to breaking needles.

4. If you discover some binding while the machine is running, it is most

likely caused by one of three things. The 'Dial a Stitch' cam is out of
adjustement (setting this is covered in the service manual), the front
needle bar is binding (you will notice this in zig zag mode). First
disassemble the side and front covers and oil the internal 'Dial a Stitch'
cam (just right of the fork), Lubricate the needle bar on all moving areas
(remember 1 drop only). Finally, binding is caused by 'thread lock'
Thread wrapped around the hook assembly). If you take the hook
assembly apart be very careful to insure where the screws go because
they are different sizes.

I will update the service tips from time to time but if you have a question
where I might be able to help you, email me at [email protected].

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