MODEL 101

CONGRATULATIONS!

As the new owner of a Stretch Stitch Sewing Machine, we hope you will take a
few minutes to read through this booklet before using your machine for the first
time.

Experiment with the many stitches. See how easy it is to dial the stitch patterns,
stitch width, and stitch length.

Become aquainted with all the special features such as built-in button-holer,
automatic bobbin winder, and twin needle sewing.

As you go through this booklet, you will discover how these and many other
features will simplify your sewing. Additional advice on the operation and care
of your machine is always available through the Toll Free number.

We believe our machine is simple and fun to use. We hope you will have many
years of successful sewing.
 TABLE OF CONTENTS

PART I KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Know the parts................................................................................. 3
Front View.................................................................................3
Back View................................................................................... 4
Accessories................................................................................... 5
Speed control plug...........................................................................6
Light switch..................................................................................... 6
Sewing light..................................................................................... 6
Foot control.....................................................................................6
Installing extension table.............................................................. 7
Needle, thread and fabric chart................................................... 8
Changing the needle........................................................................9
To select a suitable needle............................................................. 9
Removing and attaching the presser foot................................. 10
Winding the bobbin..................................................................... 11
Adjusting bobbin winder............................................................. 12
Threading top thread.................................................................. 13
Threading the bobbin case........................................................... 14
Picking up bobbin thread.......................................................... 15
The pattern selector.....................................................................16
Stitch length dial, reversing button and dropping the
feed dog...................................................................................... 17
Adjusting top thread tensions................................................... 18
Adjusting bobbin tensions.......................................................... 18
Regulating the presser foot pressure (Patch-O-Matic)............. 19
Presser foot lever..........................................................................19

PART II START SEWING.......................................................................... 20

Keeping stitching straight........................................................... 21
Straight stitch............................................................................... 22

1
 Basting......................................................................................... 23
Staystitching............................................................................... 23
Changing sewing directions........................................................ 23
Fastening seams.......................................................................... 23
Zigzag stitching............................................................................ 24
Overcasting.............................................................................24
Interfacing darts..................................................................... 24
Checking tensions.................................................................. 25
Shell stitching............................................................................... 25
Satin stitching............................................................................... 26
Appliqueing............................................................................. 26
Bar tacking................................................................................ 26
3-Step stretch zig-zag stitch.........................................................27
Sewing with a twin needle........................................................... 27
Sewing buttonholes.................................................................28,29
Buttons.......................................................................................... 30
Sewing blind hems........................................................................ 31
Sewing zippers............................................................................. 32
Hemming....................................................................................... 33
Mending and darning
Mending.................................................................................. 34
Darning..................................................................................... 34
Embroidery.................................................................................. 35

PART III CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE

Cleaning feed dog and shuttle....................................................36
Oiling.............................................................................................37
Problems-and probable causes.............................................. 38,39

2
 PARTI KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
KNOW THE PARTS
FRONT VIEW

1. Pressure regulator (Patch-O-Matic) 11. Thread tension dial

2. Thread take-up lever 12. Faceplate
3. Pattern selector dial 13. Face plate thread guides
4. Top cover 14. Needle clamp and screw
5. Stitch length dial 15. Needle bar thread guide
6. Reversing button 16. Presser foot
7. Switch 17. Presser foot bracket thumb screw
8. Shuttle cover 18. Presser bar
9. Extension table 19. Needle bar
10. Needle plate
 BACK VIEW

20. Bobbin winder thread guide 27. Hand wheel

21. Upper thread guide 28. Bobbin winder stopper
22. Presser bar lifter 29. Bobbin winder spindle
23. Free arm 30. Spool pins
24. Terminal cover 31. Carrying handle
25. Belt cover
26. Clutch knob

4
 ACCESSORIES

3 BOBBINS 3 NEEDLE SIZE 14 2 FELT PADS

1 NEEDLE SIZE 11 For Thread Spool Pin:.
1 TWIN NEEDLE

BLIND HEM FOOT ZIG-ZAG FOOT HEMMER FOOT ZIPPER FOOT

(on machine)

5
 SPEED CONTROL PLUG

Push the speed control plug onto three

prong connector.
Plug machine cord into any 110-120
volt wall outlet.

LIGHTSWITCH

Turn light on and off by pushing light

switch.

SEWING LIGHT

The sewing light is located in the face

cover as shown. To replace the bulb,
turn the light off and open the face
cover. Push the bulb up and turn the
bulb counter clockwise and remove it
from the socket.
Push a new bulb in and turn it clockwise.

NOTE:
First, unplug the machine prior to re­
moving and replacing the bulb. Be
aware that the light bulb may be warm.

FOOT CONTROL

Step on this control to start to sew. The

harder you press on the control, the
faster the machine will sew. Slow down
by reducing foot pressure on the control.
You may want to practice your speed at
different levels when you first use the
machine.

6
INSTALLING EXTENSION TABLE

For all flat-bed sewing use the extension table provided with the machine. To
install the extension table, simply slide the table along the free arm until the two
Pins (A) and (B) enter fitting holes in the machine.

Lower the support leg.

To utilize free-arm feature for sewing tubular material, remove the extension
table from the machine by pulling it to the left.

7
 NEEDLE, THREAD AND FABRIC CHART

The needle and thread you choose depends upon the fabric you are stitching.
The correct needle size is important to avoid damaging the fibers of light weight
or tightly woven fabrics, and to prevent needle breakage when stitching heavy
or stiff fabrics.

Needle
Thread Fabric
size

* polyester tricot, lingerie fabrics, chiffon,

9 ‘cotton covered polyester net, voile, sheer lace, fine silk,
fine ’fine mercerized cotton (70-100) organdy
’silk A

’polyester light weight knits, jerseys, silk,

11 ’cotton covered polyester batiste, taffeta, satin, lace, crepe
’mercerized cotton (50-60)
’silk A

’polyester double knits, linen, poplin,

’cotton covered polyester gingham, pique, seersucker, fine
’mercerized cotton (50) corduroy, velveteen, light weight
’silk A wools

’polyester heavy wools, corduroy, felt,

’cotton covered polyester terrycloth, canvas, upholstery
’mercerized cotton (40-50) and drapery fabrics
heavy ’heavy duty mercerized (40)
’silk D (buttonhole twist for top­
stitching)

Always use same type and size of thread in both needle and bobbin.
Always use a sharp needle. A blunt point can cause skipped stitches or snag
the fabric. Chemical finishes and man-made fibers blunt the needle faster.
Never use a bent needle.
If your machine is skipping stitches, replace the needle before looking for
trouble elsewhere.
When sewing very fine fabrics, use tissue paper underlay to prevent yarn distor­
tion.
When sewing stretch, very fine fabrics and synthetics, use a BLUE TIPPED
needle. The blue tipped needle effectively prevents skipped stitches.

8
 CHANGING THE NEEDLE

1. Turn the hand wheel towards you

until the needle is at is highest posi­
tion.
2. Loosen the needle clamp screw by
turning its top edge towards you.
Remove the needle from the clamp.

3. Place the new needle into the needle

clamp with its flat side facing away
from you. Push the needle up into
needle clamp as far as possible.
4. Tighten the needle clamp screw
firmly.

TO SELECT A SUITABLE NEEDLE

A number indicating the size of
needle is marked on the stem. The
Stem higher the number, the thicker the
needle.
Do not use any needle which is bent
or blunted.

9
REMOVING AND ATTACHING THE PRESSER FOOT

10
WINDING THE BOBBIN

1. Release clutch by turning clutch bobbin winder shaft to the right

knob toward you. until it clicks. Holding onto end
2. Draw thread from spool through of thread, start machine. When
bobbin winder tension disc as shown. bobbin is slightly filled, snip off
3. Pull end of thread through hole in end of thread.
bobbin as shown. 5. Wind thread until winder stops.
4. Place bobbin onto bobbin winder Remove bobbin. Clip thread.
shaft with end of thread coming 6. Tighten clutch knob.
from the top of the bobbin. Push

11
ADJUSTING BOBBIN WINDER

Correct
The thread must be wound onto the bobbin
evenly.

Incorrect If the thread piles up at the bottom, loosen

the fixing screw of the winder tension and
set the tension a little higher.

If more thread is wound on at the top of the

Incorrect
bobbin, push the winder tension down a
little.

After adjustment, do not forget to tighten

the fixing screw!

To locate fixing screw, open face plate. This

screw is directly under bobbin winder thread
guide inside the top cover.

Set the winder stop so that the bobbin is

illed to about % with thread. The bobbin
must stop turning when the required amount
of thread is wound. If the amount of
thread is not correct, loosen the screw and
move the winder stop as shown in the
illustration at the right.

12
THREADING TOP THREAD

Place spool on spool pin as shown, with Release spool of thread and thread
thread coming from the back of the machine through take-up lever (5) and
spool. thread guide (6) as shown above. Thread
Draw thread through top thread guides. then passes through guides (7) and (8).
Holding spool stationary with right Thread reedle (9) from front to rear.
hand, pull the end of the thread between
me tension discs as shown above (3).
r-uli the end of the thread taut with left
hand. This wilt pull the spring wire up
ano past the end of the hook. The
thread will then slip into the hook when
the spring is released as in (4).

13
 THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

(2)

© © ©

1. Remove She extension table from the 5. Insert bobbin into bobbin case
machine by pulling it to the left. making sure thread is coming from
Open the shuttle cover by pulling bobbin as shown.
down the embossed part on the left 6. Pull thread through slot of case as
side of the cover. shown.
2. Raise needle to its highest position 7. Pull thread under tension spring.
by rotating hand wheel toward you. 8. Holding latch open, position case
3. To remove bobbin case from shuttle, into shuttle, and release latch. Case
pull open latch of bobbin case. should lock into place when latch
4. Pull bobbin case straight out of is released.
shuttle.

14
 PICKING UP BOBBIN THREAD
1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold needle
thread loosely in left hand and rotate
hand wheel toward you one complete
turn.

2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling

upper thread.

3. Pull both threads unde, nd to the

back of the presser for ' leaving 3
to 4 inches of thread clear.

If you cannot pick up bottom thread

by following steps given above, then
check:
1. Is needle threaded from front to
back?
2. Is thread tangled around needle?
3. Is there 3 to 4 inches of thread com­
ing from the bobbin case?
4. Is thread from bobbin case tangled?

15
THE PATTERN SELECTOR

The desired pattern can be selected by turning the

pattern selector dial. The marks on the dial cor­
respond to the patterns shown on the panel respec­
tively, as follows:
M( Cp ) straight stitch, middle needle position
0( ) straight stitch, left needle position
1 ( ) zigzag stitch, width 1 millimeter
2 ( ) zigzag stitch, width 2 millimeter
3 ( § ) zigzag stitch, width 3 millimeter
4 ( § ) zigzag stitch, width 4 millimeter
5 ( =E ) zigzag stitch, width 5 millimeter
A( ) reverse blind stitch
B( =j: ) 3-step stretch zigzag stitch
C( Zi ) stretch blind stitch
IP HP CP B automatic buttonhole sewing

16
 STITCH LENGTH DIAL, REVERSING BUTTON AND DROPPING THE FEED

To change the length of the stitches

j---------- setting
proceed as follows:
Turn the dial so that the number for the
required stitch length is at setting mark. 0 0.5 12 3 4
The numbers indicate the approximate
stitch lengths in mm. The lower the
i ii *
number, the shorter the stitch. M • ! i
i i : ! i
stitch lengths

REVERSE STITCH:

Press center of the stitch length dial

(reversing button) and hold for reverse
stitching. Fabric will immediately start
feeding backwards. Release button and
machine will resume normal forward
sewing.
Very useful for fastening ends of seams
and darts without having to tie threads,
and for strengthening seams.

DROPPING THE FEED DOG:

Embroidering and darning are best

carried out with the feed mechanism
disengaged. This is done by setting the
stitch length dial at , which drops
the feed and allows the material to be
moved freely under the needle.
The feed starts its normal function again
as soon as you turn the stitch length
dial to "0" or beyond it

17
 ADJUSTING TOP THREAD
TENSIONS

Probably the most important control on

your machine is this one that regulates
An ideal straight stitch will have
your top thread tension.
threads locked between the two
layers of fabric.
There are many reasons for having to
r . et ycur tension. The best tension for
Upper thread too tight
■ fabric may not be correct for
another. The required tension depends
upon the stiffness of the fabric, thickness
of the fabric, numbers of layers of fabric
being sewn, as well as the type of stitch
you are making.

It is best to test the stitching on a scrap

of the fabricyou are using before starting Upper thread too loose
to make a garment. Use the straight
‘ tch function as shown at the right.

;TING BOBBIN TENSIONS

c * tension requires adjusting less

frequently than the upper thread ten­
sion.

If the stitch is satisfactory but the seam

is puckered, it may be necessary to
loosen the tension on both the top and
bottom threads. Be sure to balance
them.

When adjusting the tension on the bobbin

case, make slight adjustments with a
screw driver.

18
REGULATING THE PRESSER
FOOT PRESSURE (Patch-O-Matic)

To release the pressure, push ring (A)

downwards. The machine is now free
from any pressure of the presser foot.
For sewing medium or light materials, push
regulator (B) down just a little to provide
the light pressure required.
If you are sewing thick or heavy materials,
push the regulator (B) farther down to
increase the pressure on the material.

PRESSER FOOT LEVER

To aid you in the placemen: ... heavy

fabrics under the presser foot, me lever
can raise foot beyond the normal "up"
position. This is also an aid in changing
your presser feet.

19
 PART II START SEWING

Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with-the acces­
sories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new
NELCO sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit
down to sew:

1. Test the needle it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. Select
the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change
your needle frequently. Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend
to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers.

2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have
been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads
during the . ing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam.

3. Test the -. ' e stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabric should
be doubl? -a ess. Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension
suitable’ . fabric.

4. Fabric she placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to
the left o eedle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8" seam
marking t - - needle plate when making a simple seam.

5. Run the n. . ne at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put on the foot
control, the faster the machine will sew.

6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam.

7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.

8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Never pull or
hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered.

9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you.

20
 Keeping Stitching Straight
Your machine has three aids to help
keep your stitching straight, whether
stitching seams or doing decorative
stitching.
* Numbered guidelines on the right
side on needle plate.
Numbers indicate distance, in eights
of an inch, form the needle. For 5/8"
seam, line up your fabric with the
numbered 5/8" guideline.
* Cloth guide attachment
Use for stitching seam widths that
are wider than markings c needle
plate, and for making de hems.
Also use as a guide for ■ .’stitching.
Fasten cloth guide chine by
inserting thumb scr ..-.to hole in
bed of machine. A ;j.ist cloth guide
to desired distanc irom needle and
tighten screw.
* Quilting attachment
Use for stitching ~rallel lines with­
out marking fabi when quilting
shirring, smocking, making rows
of decorative stitches.
Insert bar (A) into hole in the Foot
Bracket (B). It is movable from side
to side to set it at the desired position.

Pi’ Basting
Place nine at right angles to presser foot
with pins just nipping into fabric at
stitching line. Never place pins on
underside of fabric in contact with
fabric feed or so presser foot rides
over head of pin.

.;_4

21
STRAIGHT STITCH

Presser foot zigzag foot

Pattern selector . M( ctD )orO( (tD )
Stitch length dial. 0.3 - 4
zigzag foot
You will find in garment construction that you are doing two types of sewing­
temporary and permanent.
1. Temporary stitching-Usually the longest stitch possible and often done on a
single layer of fabric. The various types of temporary stitching are:
Basting
Stay stitching
Guide line marking

2. Permanent st: :. !• ng. This is the actual stitching that holds the garment together.
Much of this rng is visible on the outside of the garment and therefore must
be good loo:

The best length ■: to use for medium weight fabrics is 10-12 stitches per inch.
This is in the m -ange of the Stitch Length dial.

You must rem: to lengthen the stitch for heavier fabrics, multiple layers of
fabric and thic ms. Some of these seams are:
Comm j'jo layer seams
Curve a ■ o layer seams
Top st . cd three layer seams
Top st. .. ,_‘d four layer seams

When you have wo seams crossing each other with considerable thickness, sew
slowly and carefully so the seam will be as strong as possible in this area.

Starting Sewing
1. Be sure both the threads are drawn
back under the presser foot.
2. While holding the threads with your
left hand, turn the hand wheel
toward you to bring the needle into
the fabric where you wish to start
sewing.
3. Lower the presser foot, and press the
speed controller gently, then start
sewing slowly.
*Sew a few reverse stitches by pushing
reverse button for reinforcing the
end of seams.

22
 Basting
Machine basting is very useful for join­
ing seams for trial fittings, marking
construction guidelines, and basting
pleats and hems.
Use longest stitch possible, setting
stitch length at 4. Loosen tension on
upper thread. Choose thread color to
contrast with your fabric so it can be
easily seen.
Basting stitches n be removed easily
by clipping upp. read, then pulling
out lower thread.

Staystitching
Staystitching pre s stretching and
acts as a guidei for clipping and
joining curved ed . Staystitch any
edge that might >• ch during handl­
ing before the final ching.
Staystitch on a sir layer of fabric;
always stitching in ; direction of the
grain. Place stitching 1/8" away from
seamline in the seam allowance. Use
12 stitches per inch for most fabrics.

Changing Sewing Directions

1. '.'top the machine, and turn the
hand wheel toward you to bring
the needle down into the fabric.
r<aise the presser foot.
i/ot the fabric around the needle to
change direction as desired.
3. lower the presser foot and continue
the sewing.

Fastening Seams
1. For fastening the ends of seams,
press down the reversing button and
sew several reverse stitches.
2. To remove the fabric, raise the presser
foot and draw the fabric away from
you.
3. Sever threads on thread cutter at the
rear of presser bar or with a pair of
scissors.
Leave about 15 cm (6 inches) of
thread hanging from the needle eye.
23
ZIG-ZAG STITCHING

Presser foot............................ zigzag foot

Pattern selector...................1-5 M*" )
Stitch length dial.................. 0.3 — 4
zigzag foot

This type of stitching greatly expands the use of your machine. This is the feature
that enables you to overcast seams, applique and sew on buttons. Using the range
of widths as indicated on the pattern selector, you can sew any width you desire.
Since this is a range, you may set the dial between the illustrated widths.

OVERCASTING

This is one of the more frequently used

zigzag stitches in garment construction.
You may want to overcast along the raw
edge of each seam allowance or fold the
raw edge toward the garment and stitch.

Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.

Fig. 2 illustrates the folded edge stitched.

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric

just short of the outside edge. Raw or
worn edges of older garments can be
overcast to prevent further raveling.

INTERFACING DARTS

To reduce bulk of interfacing darts, cut

interfacing down center between dart
lines. Overlap cut edges, matching dart
lines. Zigzag stitch along marking line
from point to wide end of dart Trim
both raw edges close to stitching.

24
CHECKING TENSIONS

The easiest way to check tensions is to UNDESIRABLE DESIRABLE

sew a medium zigzag stitch on the fabric
you will be using. ‘

Use the appropriate type of thread and - ''

needle. Use different colors of thread
on the bobbin and upper spool.

Sew a line of medium zig-zag stitches.

The bobbin thread should not show on
the top of the fabric.

Adjust the top tension if necessary to ~

achieve the stitch formation mentioned
above.
TOP SIDE OF FABRIC

SHELL STITCHING

Presser foot zigzag foot

Pattern selector................... A( cX )
Stitch length dial...........................1.5

When sewing this stitch, allow needle to

just clear the right edge of the fabric
when it zigzags.

NOTE:
You may need to increase your tension
slightly to achieve the shell affect.
SATIN STITCHING

Presser foot . . . . .zigzag foot

Pattern selector. . 1-5 )
Stitch length dial. .0.3 to 1

Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches. This is an attractive stitch
used for appliqueing, bar tacking or sewing on buttons.
Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen the tension of
the top thread slightly. The wider the stitch sewn the looser the tension.
If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, it is well to use a backing of tissue paper
or interfacing for a formed stitch. Puckering of the material will be eliminated
and the bobbin th r-: • not be visible on the top side of the fabric.
It is best to prac . sample design on a fabric scrap before sewing design on
garment.

APPLIQUEIN<

SETTINGS
Same as with Sab . ching
Select an applic: gn to be applied
to your garment . i baste it in place.
Satin stitch arou; - raw edge of the
applique comple: covering the edge.
You may want to do this with a con­
trasting color of thread or self color.

BAR TACKING

This stitch is similar to a very short satin

stitch and is used to reinforce points of
strain such as corners of pockets and
straps on lingerie.

Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.

26
3-STEP STRETCH ZIG-ZAG STITCH

Presser foot..................
Pattern selector............. . . . . B ( )
Stitch length dial........... ...................0.3 to 4

3-Step stretch zig-zag stitch gives added flexibil­

ity to the stitch. Use to overcast edges of
seams, facings and hems to prevent raveling and
to keep lightweight knits from rolling. Besides
knits, use for edges of thin, easily frayed
fabrics which have a tendency to pucker when
overcast with ordinary zig-zag. Also suitable
for overcasting heavy fabrics such as woolens
and terrycloth.
Use for attaching elastic. Mark elastic and
garment waistline in fourths. Place elastic over
fabric and pin together at the markings. Take a
few stitches to anchor elastic to fabric, then
stretch elastic between pins as you sew.
Mend tears and patches on knits and light weic: .
fabrics with stretch zig-zag rather than regu
zig-zag.

SEWING WITH A TWIN NEEDLE

Presser foot zigzag foot

Pattern selector......................................... 0-3
Stitch length dial............................... 0.5 to 1

1. Set the pattern selector in the range of "0-3",

otherwise a needle may hit the needle plate and
break.
2. Insert the twin needle in the same way as a
single one (flat side away from you). Place two
spools of threads on the spool pins.
3. Thread machine, taking care that the two
strands of thread are separated as much as
possible when placing them in the holes of the
thread guides and the tension discs.
4. Be sure to place the two round felts provided in
the accessories over the spool pins. To turn a
corner with a twin needle, stop stitching when
light hand needle just pierces fabric. Raise
presser foot, turn fabric half a turn pivoting
fabric on tip of needle. Lower presser foot and
take one stitch. Raise presser foot again, com­
plete turn, and begin stitching in new direction.
SEWING BUTTONHOLES

The buttonhole mechanism built-in this machine makes it possible to sew button
holes in a short time without turning the material.

Presser foot .buttonhole foot

Pattern selector. . . irtra
Stitch length dial. .0.3 to 1
Buttonhole foot

Raise the foot and the needle to its highest position. Replace the foot with the
buttonhole foot for sewing buttonholes.
Mark the location and the desired length of buttonhole on the fabric using a pencil
or tailor's chalk.
Note: *To find the - suitable stitch n i
length, it itter to sew a 1h
sample butt :e on a piece of J Arrow
waste fabric. Z(Start here)
*When sew/ :ry fine fabrics
and synth decrease the
pressure of • : and use a tissue f
paper under to prevent yarn p00t
distortion. Sleigh

buttonhole foot

'The yellow mark on the stitch length coarse dense

dial shows range of buttonhole sewing. stitches stitches
for heavy for light
An adjustment can be made by setting
fabrics fabrics
the mark, as shown.

(CONTINUED)

28
SEWING BUTTONHOLES (continued)

1. Set the pattern selector at " B ". Then

pass the needle thread through the
opening in the buttonhole foot and draw
both needle and bobbin threads to the
left side. Turn the hand wheel towards
you until the needle comes to the point
(1).
2. Lower the foot and sew slowly until a
desired length is sewn, then stop the
machine at (2).

3. Raise the needle and set the pattern

selector at " ". Then sew several
stitches of bar tack until the needle
is at point (3).

4. Raise the needle and set the pattern

selector at " CH ", then sew the right
side of buttonhole just as the same length
as the left side of buttonhole. Stop the
machine at (4).

5. Raise needle and set the pattern selector

at " ", then sew several stitches of
final bar tack. Stop the machine with the
needle at point (5). To lock threads, set
the pattern selector at "0"(zero point of
zigzag width)" and sew a few stitches.

6. Cut the buttonhole open carefully using

a seam ripper, taking care not to damage
the bar tacks.

'• . o'. s each and of buttonhole

pretsttt e..-d stiK.h’n'g.' &
BUTTONS

Presser foot............................................ Button foot

Pattern selector..................................... 1-5 AVvw )
Stitch length dial...................................

1. Align two holes of button with slot

Button foot
of presser foot and lower foot to
hold the button securely.
2. Turn hand wheel manually until
needle point is just above button.
3. Adjust stitch selector so needle enters
right hole of button.
4. Turn hand wheel by hand so needle
enters second hole. The stitch selector
may need to be ac ted again. Stitch
a number of tim
NOTE:
You may find it oful to use trans­
parent tape to on your button
and to keep it • j during sewing.
Tear away after mg.
5. Finish sewing an extra two
inches of threa Training. Draw
these threads U rse side of gar­ Holes of button
ment and tie.

Thread Shank
Sew-through buttons on coats and
jackets should have a thread shank to
make them stand away from the fabric.
Place a straight pin or sewing machine
needle on top of button between the
holes, and sew over the pin or needle.
Pull thread to back of button and wind
around stitches to form a firm shank.
Tie thread ends securely.

30
SEWING BLIND HEMS

Presser foot .Blind hem foot

Pattern selector.. •C( -f )
Stitch length dial. .1 to 3

1. Turn up the hem with the desired width

and press. (Fig. 1)

2. Fold hem back against the right side of

the garment with top edge of hem extend­
ing about 4 mm (1/6 inches) to right
side of garment fold. (Fig. 2)

3. Place the garment under the foot so that

double-folded edge runs along the hem
guide and lower the foot.
Sew slowly for better control, making
sure the narrow zigzag stitches will fall
on the hem edge and wide zigzag stitches
will just catch one thread of folded edge.
(Fig. 3)

4. Unfold the fabric and you will have u

blindstitch hem (Fig. 4)

(Fig. 4)

31
SEWING ZIPPERS

Presser foot .zipper foot

Pattern selector. . .M( C±D )
Stitch length dial. .1 to 4
Zipper foot

Raise the foot. Raise needle to its

highest position by turning the hand
wheel towards you. Replace the foot
with the zipper foot.
1. Pin or baste the zipper tape to the
fabric and place the work-piece in
position under the foot.
Attach snap on zipper so that
E ements
the needle passes on ■ft hand
side.
When starting to sew, L: • eedle
and bobbin threads e- . ould be Element
drawn under the foot
2. Sew on the right side zipper
by guiding zipper tee ■ close as
possible to the needle Before
the foot reaches the on the
zipper tape, raise the < .nd open
the zipper by keeping . edle in
the fabric. Elements
Lower the foot and sew on the
remainder of the seam.
3. To sew the left side of zipper change
position of foot to bring the foot
to the left side of the needle. Sew
in the same way as on the right
side of zipper.
Zipper foot ., Needle
Fabric

Element

32
HEMMING

Presser foot .hemmer foot

Pattern selector.. ,M( Cl_) )
Stitch length dial. .1 to 4

hemmer foot

Raise the foot. Raise the needle to its

highest position. Replace the foot with
the hemmer foot.
Trim and straighten fabric edge. For
easy insertion of fabric in hemmer
foot, first cut off corner of fabric. Then
fold edge of fabric over about 1/8”, then
fold it over again for a length of 2".
Insert fabric fold into spiral opening of
hemmer foot. Move fabric back and
forth until the fold forms a scrolled
shape. Draw fabric toward you until
beginning of hem is underneath needle.
Lower foot.
Stitch slowly as you guide fabric into
hemmer foot. Do not push or pull fabric.
If edge of material tends to slide out of
hemmer, guide it to the right. If too
much material enters hemmer, draw
fabric to the left.

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 MENDING AND DARNING

MENDING

Presser foot....................... ...................zigzag foot

Pattern selector................... .............. B( )
Stitch length dial................ . 1 to 2

To repair a straight or three-cornered

tear, position the tear under the needle
in such a way that the stitching catches
both sides of the tear. When mending a
three-cornered tear, stitch from each
end to the center. It is well to use a
piece of fabric under the tear for
reinforcement.

DARNING
Presser foot. . . ............zigzag foot
Pattern selector. ......... A( c±> >
Stitch length dial. . . ......... 2 to 3

Push down the outer ring of the pressure

regulator. This will release the pressure
on the presser foot.
Stretch fabric between embroidery
hoops with hole centered. Lower presser
bar and sew at a slow speed moving
fabric back and forth with a steady
rhythm to cover darning area. When it
is covered, turn fabric 1 4 a turn and
sew layer of stitching across first layer.
If fabric is thin or badly damaged in
hole area, you may want to put a separate
piece under the hole for reinforcement.
Be sure to return pressure on presser
foot to original adjustment after darn­
ing.
34
EMBROIDERY

Remove presser foot

Pattern selector M( CjD )
Stitch length dial

Place the fabric in an embroidery hoop.

Set the stitch length dial at "
Lower the presser foot lifter. Hold the
embroidery hoop firmly with your hand.
While sewing the desired pattern, move
the embroidery hoop slowly and do not
allow your fingers to get near the needle.
*Set the needle thread tension a little
looser so that the bobbin thread is
not pulled through to the right side
of fabric.
*lt is recommended to mark the required
embroidery pattern on the right side of
the fabric with a pencil or tailor's chalk.

35
 PART III CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE

CLEANING FEED DOGS AND SHUTTLE

Fig. 1 Cleaning the feed dog with a
brush.

To insure the best possible operation

of your machine, it is necessary to keep
the essential parts clean at all times.
Using a small brush, remove the lint that
accumulates in the shuttle area and
around the feed dog.

Fig. 2 Parts of the Shuttle Assembly

To Clean the Shuttle Area

1. This area must be kept free of dust,
lint and occasional tangled thread.
Raise the needle to its highest
point and remove the bobbin case.
2. Push levers of shuttle race aside and
Shuttle
lift shuttle race cover and shuttle out.
3. Clean the shuttle race with small
brush.
4. Put a drop of oil on the center pin of
the shuttle and shuttle race, (see
arrows).

Shuttle Race Cover To Replace Shuttle Assembly:

1. Position shuttle race as illustrated so
that race is forming half moon on
the left side of the machine.
2. Hold shuttle by center pin and posi­
tion shuttle so as to form a half moon
Pointed on the right side. Pointed hook will
hook Shuttle be on the bottom.
Shuttle driver
3. Place shuttle race cover into place
over shuttle assembly.
4. Snap the levers into position.

Shuttle Race Fig. 2

36
 OILING

As is the case with all precision machinery, it is necessary for maximum efficiency
to properly oil and clean at reasonable intervals. Even though the machine is not
in constant use, it is important to oil your machine since the oil will dry after
standing over a period of time. Use a good grade of sewing machine oil.
NOTE: Before oiling, clean away all lint or foreign matter. One or two drops of
oil are sufficient at each point.
The machine should be oiled at the arrow points shown. After you ■?. -ve
cleaned and oiled your machine, it is advisable to run the machine at gh
speed so that the oil will penetrate all moving parts.
: After cleaning and oiling machine, wipe away all excess oil and se .. a
scrap of material to be sure machine sews cleanlv.

Inside Face Plate

Sewing face plate open and

oil all moving parts at
friction points.

37
 PROBLEMS - and PROBABLE CAUSES

In most cases, poor sewing results are due to a damaged needle. Always examine
needle first before checking other items.

1. SKIPPING STITCHES
* bent or blunt needle
* wrong size needle
* needle inserted incorrectly
’ upper thread tension too tight
* pressure on presser foot too light

2. UNEVEN STITCHES
* bent or blunt needle
* wrong size need
* incorrect th re
* pulling fabric sewing
* upper thread too loose
* pressure on p oot too light
* loose presser
* bobbin wou ■enly
* bobbin insert rectly in case

3. NEEDLE BREA:
* bent needle leedle plate or presser foot
* needle inser rrectly
* pulling fabric sewing
* loose presser touches needle
* needle too fin fabric
* turning Pattern S- actor dial with needle in fabric

4. UPPER THREAD BREAKS

* bent or blunt needle
* incorrect threading
* upper tension too tight
* needle inserted incorrectly
* needle touches presser foot
’ needle . ye has sharp edges
* poor quality thread
* knots in thread
* starting to stitch too fast

38
 5. LOWER THREAD BREAKS
* bobbin case threaded incorrectly
* bobbin case inserted incorrectly in machine
* bobbin wound unevenly
bobbin wound too full
* bobbin tension too tight
* needle plate hole has sharp edges
* bent bobbin
poor quality thread

6. FABRIC PUCKERS
* bent or blunt needle
* upper thread tension too tight
both upper and lower tensions too tight
using two different sizes or kinds of thread
* fabric too sheer or soft (use tissue paper underlay)

7. MACHINE DOES NOT FEED FABRIC

stitch length dial set at 0
pattern selector on " "
* presser foot not down completely
* thread knotted under fabric

8. BUNCHING OF THREAD UNDER FABRIC

* upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser foot
* pattern selector on " "

9. BOBBIN DOES NOT WIND PROPERLY

* incorrect threading for winding
* thread guide not properly adjusted
* bobbin spindle not positioned correctly
* bobbin winder stop not positioned correctly

10. MACHINE RUNS SLUGGISHLY

* dirt or lint between teeth of fabric feed
dirt or lint in shuttle
* machine needs oiling
* stop motion knob not tightened

11. MACHINE WILL. NOT SEW

* cord not plugged into outlet
3-way connector not plugged into machine socket
stop motion knob not tightened
* motor belt too loose or broken

39