Biotechnology and Food Science

Research article

Polyphenols and saponins – properties and

application in cosmetics
Katarzyna Mietlińska
Institute of Natural Products and Cosmetics, Faculty of Biotechnology and Food
Sciences, Lodz University of Technology, Stefanowskiego 2/22, 90-537 Lodz,
Poland
* [email protected]
Abstract: The cosmetics market is an extremely dynamic, developing
branch of the industry. There is a constant need for multifunctional
ingredients that will meet the growing expectations of consumers. Active
ingredients of natural origin are also appreciated more and more often.
One of the most commonly used plant extracts are those rich in
polyphenols. These ingredients are known for their antioxidant properties,
but they can have many more functions in relation to human skin. They act
against wrinkles, brighten skin, support protection against harmful UV
rays, etc. Other interesting active plant ingredients are saponins –
compounds with an amphiphilic structure – that can be natural alternative
to surfactants or emulsifiers. They possess antimicrobial activity and
strengthen blood vessels. This article briefly characterizes polyphenols and
saponins, taking into account their structure and classification, as well as
indicates and describes their properties that can be used in the cosmetics
industry.

Key words: polyphenols; saponins; cosmetic technology; cosmetics; active

ingredients
Introduction
The cosmetics global market is one of the fastest-growing. The interest in
cosmetics is constantly increasing, not only among consumers but also among
producers who improve their products to meet the expectations of customers.
This fact is illustrated by the total expenditure of the global cosmetics industry,
that in 2020 amounted to USD 483 billion and is estimated to reach USD 716
billion annually by 2025 [1].
The growing awareness of consumers also entails their greater demands.
Nowadays, great emphasis is placed on the multifunctionality of cosmetics and
their natural, ecological origin [2,3]. Plant extracts are considered to be one of the
most valuable ingredients in cosmetics. Extracts rich in active ingredients that
slow down the signs of aging and act on the skin in a multidirectional way,
strengthening and protecting it, are exceptionally eagerly used products [4].

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Polyphenols and saponins – properties and application in cosmetics 17

For this reason, this article focuses on two groups of plant compounds with
high cosmetic potential. The first are polyphenols, that have been very popular
for years as compounds with antioxidant properties, the second are saponins, less
popular, but extremely valuable due to e.g. surface activity. The article aims to
briefly describe both these groups of compounds and to describe their numerous
properties, which make them an attractive raw material for the cosmetics
industry.
Polyphenols
Phenolic compounds are characterised by one or more hydroxyl groups
attached directly to an aromatic ring. Phenols are weak acids – however, they are
stronger acids than aliphatic alcohols due to the fact that phenoxy ions are
stabilized by resonance of the aromatic ring, while in alkoxy ions the entire
charge is located on the oxygen atom. Polyphenols include compounds that have
more than one hydroxyl group attached to one or more benzene rings [5].
Phenolic compounds, including polyphenols, are secondary plant metabolites
and can be found in almost all plant tissues, including fruit, nuts, seeds, tubers
and plant flowers [6]. Their most important functions include participation in
attracting pollinating insects and protecting plants against ultraviolet radiation,
microorganisms, and herbivores, some of them also fulfill structural functions
like lignin which is a phenolic polymer supports tissues of most plants [5,7,8].
Natural polyphenols generally exist in the form of links to one or more sugar
moieties linked to a hydroxyl group (glycosides), although a direct linkage of the
sugar unit to the aromatic carbon can also occur [5,9].
In plant-based foods, polyphenolic compounds are partly responsible for some
sensory and nutritional characteristics. They can impart yellow, orange, red and
blue colors [10], but also contribute to the aroma if they are volatile. In terms of
taste, the presence of phenolic compounds is usually associated with astringency
and bitterness, mainly caused by polymers of flavonols (proanthocyanins or
condensed tannins) [10,11].
Clinical studies on animals and humans show that polyphenols have
antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that may prevent or
have therapeutic effect on cardiovascular disease, neurodegenerative disorders,
cancer and obesity [7,12].
Structure and classes of phenolic compounds
Polyphenolic compounds can be classified according to their chemical
structure, biological function or source of origin, but even taking up the specific
classification criteria, scientists do not agree on the universal division of these
compounds. According to the literature, the most commonly adopted
classification takes into account the division into simple phenols, phenolic acids,
flavonoids and non-flavonoid compounds, which is shown in Figure 1.

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18 Mietlińska

Figure 1. Classification of phenolic compounds

Simple phenols and phenolic acids

Simple phenols consist of a benzene ring with substituents attached usually in
1,2- (ortho-), 1,3- (meta-) or 1,4- (para-) positions, at least one of them is
a hydroxyl group. An example of such compounds is phloroglucinol (1,3,5-
trihydroxybenzene) [5].
Hydroxybenzoic acids (C6-C1 skeleton) are the simplest phenolic acids. They
are characterized by the presence of a carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl
group in the benzene ring [5,13]. Examples of such compounds are gallic acid,
protocatechuic acid, salicylic acid and vanillic acid [5,14].
Hydroxycinnamic acids (C6-C3 skeleton) are very common in plants. The
most important representatives of this group include p-coumaric acid, caffeic
acid, ferulic acid and synapic acid [5,7,14]. In plants, these acids are usually in
the form of esters with quinic or shikimic acid, e.g. chlorogenic acid is an ester of
caffeic acid and quinic acid [5].
Phenolic compounds with C6-C3 carbon backbones, also known as
phenylpropanoids, include – besides hydroxycinnamic acids – coumarin
derivatives, curcuminoids and chromones [5,14].
Phenylacetic acids (C6 -C2 skeleton) also have to be mentioned, but in nature
they occurs less often than phenolic compounds with C6 -C1 and C6 -C3 skeletons
[5].
Flavonoids
Compounds with the C6-C3-C6 skeleton are composed of two benzene rings
linked together by a group consisting of three carbon atoms [5,7,13]. Depending

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Polyphenols and saponins – properties and application in cosmetics 19

on the C3 system three classes of these compounds are distinguished: aurons,

chalcones, and flavonoids. Chalcones and dihydrochalcones are characterised by
the C3 system in the form of a chain linking adjacent two benzene rings [5,6]. The
presence and importance of both chalcones and aurons is much lower than that of
flavonoids.
Flavonoids are made up of 3 rings A, B and C (Figure 2). Ring A is formed
by the condensation of three malonyl-CoA molecules. Ring B is derived from
p-coumaroyl-CoA, it may be mono-, ortho-di- or vic-trihydroxylated, and it may
also contain methoxy groups as substituents. The heterocyclic ring C may be
a pyran, pyrylium or pyrone ring [5,15,16]. In nature, flavonoids usually occur in
a bound form, most often as glycosides.
Heterocyclic ring C of the flavone with an oxygen atom contains both
a carbonyl group and a double bond between C3 and C2. The best-known flavones
are apigenin and luteolin [13,14,17]. Flavones are relatively rare and are most
abundant in the peel of the fruit [13].

Figure 2. Basic structures of flavonoids

As with the flavones, the heterocyclic ring of the flavonols contain a carbonyl
group and a double bond, and additionally a hydroxyl group on the C3 carbon.
The most common flavonols are kaempferol, quercetin, and myricetin
[6,13,14,17].
In the structures of flavanones, there is a carbonyl group in the C-ring, but
there is no double bond or an additional OH group [5,6]. Rings A and B can be
substituted analogously to flavones. An example of a compound belonging to this
group is naringenin [5,14,17].

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Compounds belonging to the group of flavanols (flavan-3-ols) differ from the

others, because in the heterocyclic C ring neither a double bond nor a carbonyl
group occurs, while there is an OH group attached to the C3 carbon. An example
of a flavanol is epicatechin, that belongs to the subgroup of monomeric flavanols,
as flavanols can form conjugates with gallic acid, giving compounds such as, for
example, gallate epicatechins and gallate epigallocatechin [14,16].
Isoflavones, isoflavanones and neoflavones are also characterised by the
C6-C3-C6 structure, but in their case the B ring is in the C3 position of heterocyclic
C-ring. Representatives of this group are genistein and daidzein [6,14,16].
The basis of the anthocyanidins is a flavylium cation (with a heterocyclic
C-ring in the form of a pyrylium cation) with an OH group attached to the C 3
position. These compounds rarely exist as free aglycones, except for a few
widespread colored compounds, e.g. cyanidins [5,14,16,18]. Anthocyanidin
glycosides are water-soluble anthocyanins.
Other polyphenols
The important non-flavonoid phenolic compounds are xanthones, stilbenes,
lignans and tannins.
Xanthones with the C6-C1-C6 skeleton belong to very stable, symmetrical
O-heterocyclic compounds with the dibenzo-γ-pyrone structure [14].
The structure of stilbenes consists of 2 benzene rings connected by a two-
carbon double bond (C6-C2-C6 skeleton), the most common being the trans
isomer [5,14]. The most known representative of this group is resveratrol [5,7].
Lignans are dimers or oligomers that are formed by the coupling of
monolignols – p-coumaric alcohol, coniferous alcohol and sinapic alcohol. Most
lignans are optically active compounds and there is usually only one enantiomer
per plant species. Examples of lignans are (+)-pinoresinol and (–)-plicatic acid
[5].
Tannins can be divided into three groups: condensed tannins, complex
tannins and hydrolyzable tannins, the latter of them is additionally divided into
gallotannins and ellagitannins. Condensed tannins, also known as
proanthocyanidins, are oligomeric or polymeric flavonoids composed of
flavan-3-ol (catechin) units. An example of condensed tannin is procyanidin B2.
Gallotannins are hydrolysable tannins with a polyol core substituted with 10-12
gallic acid residues. Ellagitannins also belong to the hydrolysable tannins,
however, they contain additional C-C bonds between adjacent galloyl units.
Complex tannins are defined as tannins in which the catechin unit is linked
glycosidically to the gallotannin or ellagitannin unit [5].
Properties of polyphenols used in the cosmetics industry
Polyphenolic compounds are currently used mainly due to their antioxidant
properties, mainly in the food industry. It is estimated that the global market of
polyphenolic compounds by 2025 will reach a value of approximately USD 2.08
billion, and the forecast value of the market of antioxidants intended for the

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Polyphenols and saponins – properties and application in cosmetics 21

cosmetics market is USD 158 million [19,20]. Consumers' awareness of the

impact of polyphenols on health, that is growing every year, means that the
demand for products from this sector is constantly growing. Every year there is
also more and more research focusing on these relationships [21]. In the case of
the cosmetics market, polyphenolic compounds have been among the most
willingly and most frequently used active ingredients with anti-radical and anti-
aging properties for many years [22–24]. This is due to their comprehensive,
positive effect on the human body, including the skin, that is the largest organ of
the human body (2 m2), which is exposed to several adverse external factors
every day, such as temperature, pollution or UV radiation [25]. Phenolic
compounds can counteract the negative effects of these factors, because their
most important properties include besides anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory,
are antimicrobial, anticancer, vaso-strengthening, anti-allergic, brightening,
antiwrinkle, anti-DNA damage and other [23,24,26,27].
Antioxidant properties of polyphenols
The use of products rich in polyphenols on the skin supports the fight against
oxidative stress caused by external factors, such as free radicals, pathogens, and
UV radiation, which lead to skin aging and skin damage [28,29]. The addition of
polyphenolic compounds inhibits the harmful effects of reactive oxygen species,
and thus inhibits, among other, the oxidation of lipids that build epidermal cell
membranes and prevents their degradation [30,31]. The action of polyphenols is
based on inhibiting the formation of new radicals by neutralisation of active
forms and precursors of free radicals. Polyphenols give an electron to a free
radical, deactivating it, and they become stable, less reactive radicals, thus
stopping the chain radical reaction [16].
It is worth to mention the beneficial effect of polyphenols on other ingredients
of the cosmetic product. This is especially important in the case of ingredients
that are sensitive to external factors, such as vitamin C or polyunsaturated fatty
acids. It should be remembered that the antioxidant activity of plant extracts
often correlates with the total content of polyphenols and their profile [32].
Protection against UV radiation
The polyphenols ability to absorb ultraviolet radiation is due to the presence
of conjugated double bonds. It has been shown that these compounds can absorb
UV radiation in the ranges of 240-285 nm and 300-550 nm, which is related to
the presence of an aromatic ring [5,33]. The sun protection factors (SPF) of
flavonoids, stilbenes and hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives defined as 7-29 SPF
correspond to minimal (SPF from 2 to 12) and moderate (SPF from 12 to 30) sun
protection [34,35]. However, it should be remembered that due to the low
concentrations of polyphenols in cosmetics, they cannot provide sufficient
protection against UV radiation, however they can support this effect. This is
particularly important in the context of the prevention of neoplastic diseases,
including skin cancers such as melanoma [36,37].

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The anti-wrinkle activity of polyphenols

Collagen in the dermis is responsible for its firmness, while elastin fibers give
it elasticity. Scientific research has proven that plant extracts rich in phenolic
compounds can inhibit the activity of proteinases, that are responsible for the
degradation of skin proteins, such as collagen and elastin. Excessive skin
exposure to reactive oxygen species also provokes the expression of collagenase
and elastase, leading to accelerated degradation of relevant proteins, which can
be counteracted by preparations rich in polyphenols [35,37-40].
The influence of polyphenols on microcirculation and blood vessels
Phenolic compounds may affect microcirculation, mainly through a protective
effect on the walls of blood vessels, reducing the permeability of capillaries and
facilitating the free flow of blood through the capillaries as a result of inhibition
of platelet aggregation [41]. This effect is due to many factors, mainly the ability
of polyphenols to neutralise free radicals, and the protective properties of
polyphenols in relation to vitamin C, which is necessary for the synthesis of
collagen that builds vascular walls. The protective effect of polyphenols is also
associated with the inhibition of the activity of hyaluronidase, the enzyme
responsible for the degradation of hyaluronic acid, which is a building
component of the walls of blood vessels and the dermis [33]. Moreover,
polyphenols inhibit the oxidation of adrenaline to adrenochrome, what weakens
blood vessels by shortening the time of their contraction. This is related to the
chelation of iron and copper ions by polyphenols, which are catalysts of this
process [42]. Moreover, phenolic compounds such as apigenin, catechin, rutin,
quercetin, luteolin, hesperidin, and diosmin also prevent platelet aggregation by
inhibiting the synthesis of fibrin, which participates in the formation of a clot
(polyphenols chelate Ca 2+ ions that are necessary for this process) [43].
Brightening properties of polyphenols
As mentioned earlier, polyphenolic compounds are characterised by the
ability to chelate metal ions, which affects the activity of tyrosinase. This enzyme
is catalyzing the oxidation of tyrosine to L-DOPA (L-3,4-
dihydroxyphenylalanine) and then to L-dopaquinone, what is part of the
melanogenesis process [33,44]. Additionally, polyphenols may limit the
melanocyte proliferation process and decrease melanin production by cells, that
results in lightening of discoloration and prevents the formation of new ones
[33].
Antimicrobial activity of polyphenols
There is a lot of information on the antimicrobial activity of phenolic
compounds and their beneficial effect on the protection of the skin against
pathogenic bacteria (e.g. Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas
aeruginosa), fungi (e.g. Aspergillus brasiliensis, formerly Aspergillus niger),
yeasts (e.g. Candida albicans) and viruses, including those listed in the

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Polyphenols and saponins – properties and application in cosmetics 23

Regulation of the Minister of Health (Journal of Laws of 2003, No. 9, item 107)
on the microbiological purity of cosmetics [45]. The mechanism of this process is
mainly related to the ability to inhibit the activity of proteolytic enzymes by
disrupting the synthesis of nucleic acids and increasing the permeability of the
cell wall to exogenous substances [46–49]. It is also worth mentioning that
antimicrobial properties of polyphenols help maintaining cosmetics purity by
protecting the product against contamination. They do not replace preservatives
but may support their action [35].
Saponins
Saponins belong to the group of non-volatile secondary metabolites which are
widespread mainly in the plant kingdom, mostly among angiosperms. However,
saponins can also be found in lower plants such as ferns or algae as well as in
some echinoderms, e.g. marine invertebrates, such as starfish and sea cucumbers
[50–52]. The name "saponins" derives from the Latin word sapo, meaning "soap"
and refers to the amphiphilic properties of saponins, which behave similarly to
soaps in aqueous solutions [51].
In plants, saponins primarily protect them against pathogens, pests and
herbivores due to antiparasitic, insecticidal, protozoicidal, nematocidal,
antifungal and antibacterial properties [53-55]. For this reason, saponins are most
abundant in the outer layers of cells, especially in the epidermis of the root and
phloem, which is the link between the roots and shoots of plants, and in stems
[55,56]. However, they are found in other plant tissues, such as flowers, leaves
and fruits [50,57].
For many years, saponins have been considered anti-nutritional substances i.e.
those that partially or completely limit the use of nutrients in food by the human
body, or those that have a detrimental effect on it. However, recent studies
indicate that some of the saponins may exhibit anticancer, antioxidant, anti-
inflammatory or blood pressure regulating properties, lower blood cholesterol
level and reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease, type II diabetes, osteoporosis
and other chronic degenerative diseases [53].
Structure and classification of saponins
Saponins belong to the class of high molecular weight compounds (600-
1500 Da) in which one part called aglycone has affinity for the hydrophobic
phase, while the other part, sugar chain, is hydrophilic, and both parts are linked
by a glycosidic bond (Figure 3). Due to this structure, the saponins show
amphiphilic character [53,54,58,59].

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24 Mietlińska
26

glycosidic bond

26

sugar chains 26 aglycone

(steroid or triterpene)

Figure 3. Basic structures of flavonoids

The hydrophobic part, called the aglycone or sapogenin, can be steroidal or

triterpenic (Figures 4 and 5) [52,60]. Steroid saponins are characterised by
a sterane skeleton that contains a side moiety at the C-17 position for a total of 27
carbon atoms. Depending on the structure of the side moiety, these compounds
can be divided into two further categories: spirostan derivatives (when a six-
membered pyran ring is attached at the C-22 position) and furostan derivatives
(when a five-membered aliphatic chain is attached) (Figure 4) [52,54,59,61,62].
Some authors also include glycoalkaloids in steroid saponins, because their C-17
ring is similar in structure to spirostan, except for the oxygen atom, which is
replaced with a nitrogen atom (Figure 4) [51,62–64].
Spirostan
22
17 E

17
E Glycoalkaloid
22
C D 17 E

A B Furostan
17 E
3

Figure 4. Structure of steroid saponin aglycones

Sapogenin of triterpene saponins consist of 30 carbon atoms [59,65], it is
characterised by a structure derived from the cyclization of (3S)-2,3-epoxy-2,3-
dihydrosqualene, which results in pentacyclic compounds, such as, for example,
dammarans, ursans (α-amarin), oleanane (β-amarin) and lupanes/hopanes –

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Polyphenols and saponins – properties and application in cosmetics 25

majority of triterpene sapogenins belong to these four basic groups (Figure 5)

[54,64,66,67], and the most common of them are α- and β-amarin [51,65].
It should be noted that ginseng saponins – ginsenosides, are classified
inconsistently as triterpene saponins, although they have steroid structure. This is
due to a lack of extra furan and pyran heterocyclic rings in their skeleton [53].

Oleanane
E
E

C E Lupane
D
28

A B
Dammarane
3 D

E Ursane

Figure 5. Structure of triterpene saponin aglycones

The hydrophilic part of a saponin moiety consists of one, two or three straight
or branched chains of oligosaccharides. Each sugar chain may contain from 1 to
6 simple sugar molecules, with the total glycone usually having up to 12 simple
sugar residues [52,59,65]. The most common sugars are D-glucose, D-galactose,
L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-xylose, L-fucose, less common are D-glucuronic
and D-galacturonic acids [54,57,59,61,65]. Due to the number of sugar chains
attached to sapogenin, saponins can be divided into mono-, bi- and tridesmosides.
Monodesmosides have a sugar chain attached to the sapogenin most often at the
C-3 position, in the case of bidesmosides, sugars may additionally be attached at
the C-26 position (steroid saponins) or C-28 (triterpene saponins), but it is not
a rule, as there are saponins that are monodesmosides with a sugar chain at the
C-28 position or otherwise attached sugars [60,62,68]. It should be noted that
steroid saponins derived from spirostan occur mainly as monodesmosides, while
furostan derivatives are usually bidesmosides [57,59]. Tridesmosides may have a
third sugar chain linked by an ether or ester bond to one of the functional groups
(OH or COOH) present in the aglycone [57]. Tridesmosides are relatively rare,
and one of their examples is convallamaroside, that can be found in the herb of
the lily of the valley [59].
Both steroid and triterpene sapogenins can have many differently located
functional groups (-OH, -COOH, -CH3), which enhances their differentiation

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26 Mietlińska

[57,61,64,65]. The presence of additional carboxyl groups in the aglycone or

acids in the sugar part may determine the acidic nature of some saponins [52,59].
The variety of saponins is further enhanced by the number, composition and
possible combinations of sugar chains. For this reason, the term "saponins" in
relation to active compounds found in plants should be understood as an
extremely complex mixture of glycosides [57].
Properties of saponins used in the cosmetics industry
One of the most characteristic properties of saponins is their ability to
hemolysis, i.e. the breakdown of red blood cells. Substances that induce
hemolysis are known to have the potential risk of causing general irritation or
irritation of mucous membranes, as are many surfactants, and for this reason, the
use of saponins has been avoided for a long time not only in the food industry but
also in cosmetics [69]. However, studies conducted for many years show that
these compounds are not harmful to human skin, on the contrary, their use may
result in several beneficial effects, without negative consequences for mucous
membranes and delicate skin [69]. Saponins are only toxic to humans when
injected directly into a vein. When administered orally, they can cause vomiting,
but only if ingested in large amounts, as they are poorly absorbed. With oral
ingestion of saponins, they break down into sugars and sapogenins, that are
excreted in the urine [52,53,66,70,71]. It is also worth noting that
monodesmosides have a greater capacity for hemolysis than bi- or tridesmosides
[52,66].
The most commonly used in cosmetics are triterpene saponins belonging to
oleanane derivatives. In the production of cosmetic preparations, both plant
extracts and isolated single saponin compounds are applicable. These compounds
are used in cosmetic technology both as active ingredients and as auxiliary
substances [72].
Surface activity of saponins
The most frequently used property of saponins in the cosmetics industry is
their ability to behave in aqueous solutions like surfactants. It is the effect of the
amphiphilic structure of these compounds. Due to such properties, saponins tend
to lower the surface tension, and therefore can be an alternative to synthetic
surfactants, emulsifiers and solubilisers. [52,73-75]. It should be noted, that
saponins differ in their affinity for both phases in which they dissolve [72]. It is
related to the diverse structures of saponins, more specifically, to the variable
number of sugar residues attached to the aglycone, that are responsible for the
affinity for the hydrophilic phase. For this reason, bi- and tridesmosides dissolve
in water better than monodesmosides. The presence of bidesmosides in the
solution can help to solubilise both other compounds and saponins less soluble in
water and help in the transport of active ingredients [53,76]. The presence of
additional functional groups, such as a carboxyl group, can also affect the surface

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Polyphenols and saponins – properties and application in cosmetics 27

activity of saponins, reducing or increasing their water solubility, depending on

whether they are attached to an aglycone or a sugar chain [73].
Saponins can be both a standalone washing agent and an auxiliary agent. The
use of extracts rich in saponins helps to stabilise the foam of washing
preparations, e.g. shampoos [53,60,68,77,78], but also emulsions [79]. Properly
selected saponins can act as an emulsifier, provided that the content of the oil
phase in the product is relatively low [80,81]. Saponins obtained, for example,
from the soap bark tree (Quillaja saponaria Molina) are a natural, effective
emulsifier stabilizing O/W (oil in water) emulsions, with suspended oil droplets
of very small diameter (below 200 nm), which is extremely desirable in cosmetic
products because it guarantees the homogeneity and stability of the emulsion.
These saponins are stable in a wide range of environmental parameters (pH,
temperature), which makes them extremely attractive raw materials [82].
It is worth noting that saponins, when their concentration exceeds the critical
concentration of micellisation (CMC), can form micelles in aqueous solutions,
the size and structure of which depend on the type of compounds present in the
mixture [50] – saponins obtained from soapwort (Saponaria officinalis L.) can
create a micelle from just two molecules, while the compounds from the soap
bark tree need 50 molecules [73]. The formation of micelles from saponins is
also significantly influenced by factors such as temperature, pH and addition to
the salt solution [50].
Antimicrobial activity of saponins
The second of the most important properties of saponins used in the cosmetics
industry is their activity against microorganisms, including those that are
pathogenic to the human body [71,76]. The antibacterial properties of saponins
are described as quite weak, while a significant antifungal activity has been
observed, although it is strongly dependent on the type of saponin [73,76]. The
basic mechanism of action of saponins on fungi involves the rearrangement of
membrane lipids, pore formation and loss of membrane integrity, and hence cell
lysis, which is associated with the hemolytic activity of saponins [83,84].
Additionally, antiviral activity has been proven for some saponins, including
inhibiting the replication of HIV and the antiprotozoal effect [52,71,85].
Thanks to their antimicrobial properties, saponins can support action of
preservatives in protecting cosmetic products against microbial contamination.
On the other hand, they can also inhibit the growth of pathogens present on
human skin. Saponins, despite their relatively weak antibacterial activity, can
fight Cutibacterium acnes that reside on human skin that is responsible for acne
lesions [86–88]. For this reason, saponins can be successfully used, especially in
the treatment of rosacea, because they gently slow the action of bacteria, while
not irritating the sensitive skin affected by pathological changes.
Other properties of saponins

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Some saponins have the ability to seal capillaries and tighten and strengthen
the surrounding connective tissue. The best known is escin obtained from horse
chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum L.), that has been used for this purpose for
many years not only in the cosmetics industry but also in medicine [69].
Moreover, saponins may exhibit antiallergic and anti-inflammatory properties as
well as aid in the treatment of minor wounds [52,83,85,87,89]. Saponins can act
against free radicals, soothe the irritating effect of basic surfactants used in
cleansing products, brighten and promote skin hydration [52,86–88,90], and
increase the permeability of cell membranes [91]. All the listed properties of
saponins make these compounds extremely attractive for the cosmetics industry,
although they are still little used [92]. Scientific research also confirms the anti-
cancer effect of saponins, which is particularly devoted to this day [52,85,93].
Summary
Plant extracts can be a source of many extremely valuable ingredients for the
cosmetics industry, including compounds as valuable as polyphenols and
saponins. The former are known primarily for their antioxidant properties, the
latter due to their surface activity. However, it is worth remembering that these
are only a few of the numerous properties of these compounds. Due to their
multidirectional, comprehensive action, polyphenols and saponins have
a beneficial effect on the human body, including its largest organ, i.e. the skin. It
is also worth emphasising how diverse these groups of compounds are and how,
in fact, we still know little about them, as is shown every year by research on
newly discovered compounds or their new properties and effects on the human
body. This creates many opportunities for the cosmetics industry, thanks to
which it can constantly develop and meet the growing expectations of consumers.
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