THE STARTER

by Lorne Goldman at the eMog Pub

The situation here is that your car won't start. You turn the key to start, and you get
nothing. This procedure is only for those times when the starter doesn't even try to
crank the engine. You turn the key and you get nothing or maybe a click and some
dimming of the idiot lights.

Here's a troubleshooting procedure for you.

BATTERY

Your first goal is to

determine the state of
charge of your battery.
Turn your headlights
on and see how bright
they are. If they are of
normal brightness then
you are probably OK.
If you have a voltmeter,
put it across the
terminals of the battery.
A fully charged battery will read around 12.5 volts, a dead battery will be less than
say 11.8 volts. If your battery is dead, charge it and then proceed to the next step.
The battery earth could also be bad or marginal. This will mean it tests correctly if
it is not engaged, but experiences a steep drop (often only when the engine is hot)
as soon as you engage the starter. That will make the starter turn slowly or not at
all or reduce the voltage remaning to the point where the coil cannot prodcue a
spark. A braided earth strap could look great on one side, but have many broken
stands on the other. Here is an example in the image.

IGNITION SWITCH

Next you want to find out if your ignition switch is sending power to the solenoid.
A preliminary check for this is if your idiot lights dim when you turn the key to
start, that's a good indicator that the ignition switch is functioning properly. To
check for sure, get under the car and disconnect from the solenoid the wire that
comes from the ignition switch. It connects to a push-on spade connector on the
solenoid. Fuel-injected cars have two spade connectors on the solenoid. In that
case, the ignition switch wire will be the heavier of the two wires. Disconnect the
wire, then use your voltmeter to check for 12v at that wire. Put the positive lead to
the wire and ground the negative lead, then have your helper turn the key to start.
When your helper does this, you should read 12v at the wire. If not, suspect a
defective ignition switch or a break in the wiring (or disconnected) wire between
the battery and ignition switch or ignition switch and starter. Repair and try again.
If you do have power at that wire, move on to the next step.

STARTER MOTOR

Next you want to see if the problem lies in the starter motor itself. Looking at the
back of the solenoid, you will see two big post electrical connectors. What you
want to do here (TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL -- PARKING BRAKE
ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!) is grab a big screwdriver or a pair of insulated pliers. Touch only
the plastic or rubber handle. You want to take this tool and short across the two big
post terminals. Be prepared for some sparks, but hold the tool up there until you
make a good connection. What you are doing here is connecting the battery
directly to the starter motor, WITHOUT engaging the solenoid. So what should
happen is that the starter motor will spin but will not crank the engine. It should
sound like a regular electric motor, no gravelly or strange noises. If it does not spin
or sounds really bad, have it rebuilt. If it works like it's supposed to, the motor is
good so move on to the next step. See HERE

SOLENOID

OK, you're now starting to run out of possible problems! The next test is to see if
the solenoid is working. Here's how this goes. First, TRANSMISSION IN
NEUTRAL -- PARKING BRAKE ON!!!!!!!). Look at the back of the solenoid.
There are the two big post terminals you just played with. Look at the one on the
right. You will see that there is simply a short heavy braided wire attached to it that
runs down into the starter motor. What you want to do here is spike the positive
lead of your voltmeter into this braided wire and ground the negative lead. Then
have your helper turn the key to start. When your helper does this, you should hear
a clunk and measure 12v with your voltmeter (additionally, the engine should be
cranking as this happens). If you do not measure 12v, your solenoid is not
activating and is not sending power to the starter motor. I had a case on my van
where the solenoid would clunk but I was only measuring 1.5 volts at that braided
wire, and the starter motor was not turning. I had the solenoid rebuilt at a shop and
that solved the problem.

If you do not measure 12v at the braided wire as above. then there is a strong
possibnlity your solenopid is defective. Remove the starter and have the solenoid
rebuilt -- if your starter motor tests fine. I took mine to a local automotive electrical
rebuilder and that solved my problem. Or you can go whole hog and exchange
your starter/solenoid assembly for a rebuilt model or new model bought at a parts
store. This, however, can be quite expensive.
NOT STARTING OR CHECKING YOUR BATTERY
by George Dow on eMOG

Justin, seems that there may not be enough volts in the right place at the right time.
A simple statement, though resistance can play a part in making a good battery
look duff.

Resistance can be many things in a Morgan, such as slack or corroded battery

terminals, starter terminals or earthing connections... Battery to chassis, or
bulkhead and chassis to engine.

It is good to use your voltmeter as a guide, though car voltmeters can be

notoriously slow to react to variations on voltage, dependant on its type. Of course
if your battery connections are the problem, the voltmeter will read low, and the
battery could be serviceable! It may surprise you and others to find out that, while
cranking, a voltage of 9.6 to 10Volts is average on a battery in reasonable
condition.

If there is resistance, the resistance will get warm if you hold the key in the "start"
position. Thi is not a wise move on an electronic car with a bad earth, as the
current will be trying to find an alternative path and can FRY things in the process!

Put the headlights on full beam and try to start the car, if they dim greatly perhaps
you have a battery or connection problem or the starter is jammed (unlikely). If
they do not then it is likely that you have a starter problem.

If you have a starter problem again it could be the chassis to engine earth, or the
connection for the heavy cable at the solenoid. Either of these will get warm if they
are dirty or slack. If you are messing with the electric's then disconnect the battery
you could damage yourself if you short out those heavy leads with a spanner. Such
is the power that it can start a fire in jig time and there are no fuses to save you in
that circuit, though metal will melt! Also a dud cell in a battery will generally
bubble to the extent it can be heard while loaded with the starter on.

If you are charging your battery. Measure it`s terminal voltage at the start of the
charge. Using a low current and a long time to charge is generally preferable to a
high current in a short time. When you take the battery off charge let it sit for at
least a half hour disconnected from everything.....hope your car is not one of those
that returns the ECU to factory settings when the battery is disconnected and what
about your stereo codes?

After you let the battery lie for a while disconnected....

if it reads 11.9 volts it is only 20% efficient

 12.12v 40% efficient

12.3 volts 60% efficient

12.52 volts 80% efficient

12.72 volts 100% efficient

It must have been fully charged and allowed to stand alone for these voltages to be
a reasonably accurate efficiency test....... Me ? I would not want a battery any less
than 80% efficient before winter comes along.

Why won’t my car start?

f you turn your car key and get nothing, or get anything less than an engine roaring to life,
you might be in for a bad day. Starting problems can be very frustrating because there are so
many things under the hood that can keep a car from starting. Heck, pretty much everything
under the hood can keep the car from starting.

In order to troubleshoot a no-start problem, you need to start at the beginning of the line, the
battery, and work your way back. Some tests for a no-start problem are simple, others are a
pain in the neck and a technical nightmare. Nonetheless, you need to figure out why the car
won't start, so we'll try to help. If your key won't turn in the ignition, try this fix.
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Electrical No-Start Problems
 Check Your Fuses: Few cars have a fuse associated with the starting system, but before
you go monkeying around with everything, check your fuses to be sure it's not that simple.

 Battery Corrosion: Over time your battery connections can become dirty, or corroded.
This corrosion breaks the connection your battery has with the rest of the car, and it won't
start. Try cleaning your battery postsand try to start the car again.

 Dead Battery: The most common reason your car won't start is a dead battery. If you have
a battery tester that can measure cranking amps, test your battery to see if it's weak. If you
can't test it yourself, you can test the battery indirectly by jump-starting the car. If it starts
right away, your problem is most likely a dead battery. Replace the battery, and clean the
battery connections to ensure good contact.

 Bad Igntion Switch: If your battery checks out, but the starter is still silent, it may be a
faulty ignition switch. Turn the key to the on position (not all the way to start). If the red
warning lights on your dash don't light up (and your battery connections are clean), the
ignition switch is bad. If they do light up, turn the key to the start position. The dash
warning lights should turn off at this key position (most cars). If you're not sure, turn on
the headlights. When you try to start the car, the lights should either dim (a lot) or turn off
completely. If they do, your ignition switch should be ok. If not, the switch will need
replacement.

 Bad Starter Connection: Corrosion can not only keep your battery from connecting, it
can affect any electrical component, especially the ones exposed to the elements like the
starter. If you have a helper, you can test the connection by holding a circuit tester lead on
the wire that engages the starter. This is the smaller of the two wires connected to the
starter. Be sure no part of your body is near the moving parts of the engine - it could
still start at any time! Have a friend turn the key and check the current. If you're getting
current to the starter but it ain't spinning, it needs replacement.
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If your starter spins freely when you turn the key, the problem lies elsewhere. Now you begin
to check the other systems that could keep it from firing up.
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How to Diagnose Car Battery and Starter

Problems
Use these tips to diagnose your car's battery and starter problems.
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How to Diagnose Car Battery and Starter Problems

Next

You Will Need

 Careful listening
 Dead battery symptoms
 Faulty alternator symptoms
 Mechanic

 Faulty starter symptoms

Steps
1. STEP 1

Turn on your ignition

Turn on your ignition if your car engine won't turn over. Listen carefully to any sound
produced.
2. STEP 2

Consider a dead battery

Consider the possibility of a dead battery. If trying to start the engine only produces a
"click" sound, this may be the case. If you left your car lights on the night before, the
battery could have gone dead, and you'll need to have the battery jump-started. If the
battery is very old you may have to get a new one.
3. Car batteries typically only last 3 to 5 years.
4. STEP 3

Consider a possible alternator problem

Consider a possible alternator problem if turning on the ignition produces a whining
sound, but you have a newer battery. If the alternator is bad, it will not charge the
battery when you drive the car. You can use jumper cables and another battery to
start the car, but the same problem will occur again. Have the alternator checked
and replaced if necessary.
 5. STEP 4

Consider a possible starter problem

Consider a possible starter problem. If you hear a click when you turn on the ignition
and the problem is not due to your battery, the starter's solenoid may have a weak
spot inside. If so, the starter will not be able to produce enough current to start your
engine, and you will have to have it replaced.
6. STEP 5

Visit a mechanic
Visit a mechanic if you're having trouble determining the sound your car is making.
It's always better to be safe than sorry!

Diagnosing the Battery, Charging, & Ignition System

What do you really need to know about diagnosing and repairing starting, charging and ignition systems? Two
things, basically: that electrical and ignition problems are often difficult to diagnose (especially intermittent faults),
and that a LOT of electrical and ignition parts are replaced unnecessarily in an attempt to repair problems that
are hard to diagnose.

Throwing parts at a problem until it goes away is a very expensive way of fixing faults. The "no return" policy of
many parts stores means that once you've installed an electrical or ignition part on your car, you own it.

What if the part turns out to be "defective?" In many instances, there's nothing wrong with the part. The parts
store will usually exchange it under warranty. But if the second part also fails to fix the fault, it's obvious
something else is at fault. So don't be too quick to blame "defective" parts when a newly installed part doesn't
seem to work any better than the old one, or when you get a comeback. Do your diagnostic homework, then
isolate the fault and identify any parts that may need to be replaced.

Scan Tool Diagnostics

Some parts stores now offer customers a free "diagnosis" if their Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is on. A store
employee will plug a code reader or basic scan tool into your vehicle and read out any codes that appear. The
code may provide a clue as to what's going on, but it seldom tells you which part needs to be replaced. Further
diagnosis is almost always needed with a scan tool such as AutoTap, a digital storage oscilloscope and/or other
test equipment. So don't put too much faith in parts store diagnostics. These people are not in the repair
business. They are in the parts business and are anxious to sell their customers parts. Whether these parts
actually fix the problem or not is not their primary concern.

One thing to keep in mind about scan tool codes is that codes are primarily for emission faults, not electrical
faults. Ignition faults such as misfires certainly qualify as emission faults and will trigger the MIL lamp and set a
code if the rate of misfire is high enough to cause a problem. A low battery, or an unusually low (or high) charging
voltage may set a code, but a weak battery, poor ground or bad starter probably won't.

Even when you have a code, you'll often have to do additional tests to find out what's causing the problem. A
misfire code, for example, will tell you the engine is misfiring and which cylinder is the culprit -- unless you have a
P0300 code which indicates a random misfire that can't be isolated to any given cylinder. But even when you
have a cylinder-specific code, you still don't know if the misfire is due to fuel, ignition or compression. The cause
might be a fouled spark plug, bad plug wire or weak ignition coil. Or, it might be a dirty or dead fuel injector. Or, it
might be a compression problem due to a burned or bent valve, a leaky head gasket or a rounded cam lobe.

And what do you do when you have a no start/no code condition? The problem might be no ignition, fuel or
compression. Or, it might be a bad battery, starter, ignition switch or safety circuit, or anti-theft immobilizer
system if the engine won't crank.

Start with the Battery

Many driveability and starting problems that are charging, starting or ignition related may be due to low battery
voltage. It's a simple thing to check, yet many technicians overlook the battery as a possible source of trouble.
Low battery voltage can also affect fuel delivery by causing the fuel pump to run slower than normal. This, in turn,
causes, low fuel pressure and a lean fuel condition. Under some conditions, a low battery may even prevent one
or more injectors from opening normally causing lean misfire and/or hard starting.

Automotive lead-acid batteries must be kept at or near full charge for optimum performance and longevity. If a
battery is run down or becomes fully discharged, undesirable changes start to occur on the lead plates inside the
battery. The plates develop a layer of sulfate that resist recharging and reduce the battery's ability to store power.
If the battery is chronically rundown or discharged, it shortens battery life significantly.

Average battery life under the best of conditions is only about four or five years in most vehicles, and only about
three years in places like Arizona and New Mexico where summer temperatures typically soar into the triple
digits. Many motorists who are driving vehicles with batteries that are four, five or six years old may not realize
their batteries are failing until their engine fails to start and they are stranded.

Cold weather also puts a two-fold strain on the battery by reducing its power output (up to 50% at 20 degrees F!)
and increasing the amps needed to crank a cold engine (up to double the amps at 20 degrees F).

The best way to check battery charge is with a digital voltmeter. A fully charged battery should read 12.65 volts.
A reading of 12.45 volts equals about a 75% charge and is good enough for further testing. Anything less means
the battery is low and needs to be recharged.

The battery's state of charge doesn't tell the whole story because a fully charged battery may also be a weak or
failing battery that can't provide its normal amp output under load. Battery condition can be determined one of
two ways: by load testing with a tester that applies a calibrated load on the battery (this requires the battery to be
fully charged for accurate test results), or by testing with an electronic "conductance" tester (which does not
require a fully charged battery for accurate test results).

Conductance testers send a frequency signal through the battery to reveal how much active plate area is
available to hold and deliver power. As a battery ages, its conductance declines. Shorts, opens and other cell
defects also affect conductance, so measuring conductance gives an accurate indication of battery condition.

Many electronic battery testers also analyze the battery's "Cold Cranking Amp" (CCA) capacity, which can be
used to estimate the battery's remaining service life. Some testers also measure the amps drawn by the starter
while cranking the engine, and analyze the charging system's output under load once the engine is running.

If a vehicle needs a new battery, it should have the same or higher CCA rating as the original equipment battery
specified by the vehicle manufacturer. Batteries should be fully charged before they are installed. Other items
that should always be inspected and may need to be replaced include battery cables, anti-corrosion washers for
the battery terminals, battery tray and/or battery hold-down hardware and clamps.

Charging Checks

The vehicle's charging system should also be checked to make sure it is operating correctly and is capable of
keeping the battery at full charge. As a rule, the charging voltage with the engine at fast idle should usually be
about 1-1/2 to 2 volts higher than battery voltage.

Alternator charging output increases in proportion to the electrical load on the charging system and engine
speed. Charging output is controlled by a voltage regulator, which may be mounted inside or on the back of the
alternator ("internally regulated"), or somewhere else under the hood ("externally regulated"). On newer vehicles,
the powertrain control module (PCM) regulates charging output.

If an alternator is overloaded, it may overheat and fail (check for aftermarket sound equipment that may be
overloading the stock alternator!). An alternator failure will cause the battery to run down and go dead. Symptoms
of a charging problem include a low battery, dim headlights, hard starting or a charging system warning light.

Many parts stores have an alternator test stand and can test alternators to determine if they have failed or are
capable of putting out their rated amp capacity. When done correctly, bench testing an alternator is a good way
to verify your diagnosis and/or to confirm the output of a new or reman alternator before it is installed.

A replacement alternator (new or reman) should have the same or higher amp rating as the original. If the
replacement comes with a pulley (some do not), make sure it matches the original (same diameter, width and
belt type). If your vehicle has a high amp, aftermarket sound system, you should consider upgrading to a high
output replacement alternator.

Related items that may also need to be replaced include the regulator (externally regulated applications only),
drive belt, battery cables and/or battery. If you're installing a high output alternator, larger gauge battery cables,
ground straps and charging wire may also be required.
Starter Checks

An engine that won't crank may have a bad starter, or it may have another fault such as a bad starter solenoid
starter drive, a problem in the ignition switch circuit, the park/neutral or brake safety switch circuit, or the anti-theft
immobilizer system. If the battery is fully charged and the starter is receiving normal battery voltage but fails to
crank (or cranks slowly), the starter is probably defective and needs to be replaced. Many parts stores can also
bench test a starter to check motor rpm and amp draw.

The most common cause of starter failure is prolonged cranking. This causes the motor to overheat. Starters also
wear out after years of service if the brushes, bushings, or starter drive become worn. Starters also have a
solenoid that routes current to the motor when the ignition switch is turned to the crank position. A defective
solenoid will prevent the starter from working. The starter drive mechanism that engages the flywheel may also
stick or fail prevent the starter from working.

A replacement starter (new or reman) must have the same bolt pattern and electrical connections as the original,
and the same number of teeth on the drive gear. Handle permanent magnet starters with care because the
magnets are brittle and can be easily cracked if you drop the starter. Related items that may also have to be
replaced include battery cables and engine ground straps.

Ignition Diagnosis

Primary and secondary ignition patterns can reveal a great deal about the health and performance of the ignition
system. Learning how to use and read ignition patterns on a scope takes some time, but once you know what to
look for diagnosis becomes much easier. Essentially you look for significant differences in firing voltages between
cylinders, or abnormal spark lines that indicate coil triggering or dwell problems.

Spark plugs eventually wear out (even long life 100,000-mile plugs) and can become fouled by carbon deposits.
A fouled plug may misfire causing a loss of power and fuel economy, and a big increase in exhaust hydrocarbon
(HC) emissions -- which may eventually damage the catalytic converter. Fouled or worn spark plugs can make an
engine hard to start and run poorly. Replacing the spark plugs can restore normal performance -- but it won't fix a
misfire problem if the cause is bad plug wires or a weak coil.

Under normal driving conditions, a set of standard spark plugs will usually last about 45,000 miles. Refer to your
vehicle owners manual for the recommended replacement interval. Long life plugs, which have a center electrode
made of a wear-resistant metal such as platinum or iridium, typically go up to 100,000 miles before replacement
is needed. If your engine has standard plugs, consider upgrading to long life plugs.

Spark Plug Wires

The spark plug wires (ignition cables) carry high voltage from the coil or distributor to the spark plug. Some wires
have carbon-impregnated fiberglass strands inside to carry the voltage while others have spiral-wound "mag"
wire.
Plug wires can deteriorate with age causing misfires, hard starting and poor performance. Wires should be
replaced if the boots or terminals are loose, damaged or corroded, if the wires are cracked or sparking, or if their
internal resistance exceeds specifications.

On late model engines with coil-on-plug (COP) ignition systems, there are no plug wires because the coils are
mounted directly on the spark plugs. This also complicates ignition diagnosis with a scope because special
adapters are required to pick up an induced ignition signal from the coils.

Ignition Coils

Coils seldom fail, but when they do they can't provide voltage to the spark plug(s). On a single coil ignition
system, a coil failure will cause the engine to quit and prevent it from starting. On a multi-coil DIS or COP ignition
system, it will cause a misfire in only the cylinders supplied by the bad coil.

Coils can be tested by measuring their internal resistance with an ohm meter. If the coil's "primary" or
"secondary" resistance is out of specifications, replace the coil.

Caution: Never disconnect a COP coil from its spark plug while the engine is running. Doing so may damage the
coil or other electronics!

Ignition Module

Ignition modules may receive a trigger signal directly from a distributor pickup (magnetic, Hall effect or Optical), a
crankshaft position (CKP) sensor or the PCM. A fault in any of these other components or the wiring can prevent
the ignition system from firing.

An intermittent no start and/or stalling due to loss of spark may be a clue that the ignition module is failing, or that
it is losing its trigger signal from the crank sensor. Check the resistance of the crank sensor (both hot and cold,
not just at room temperature), and check to see that the module is receiving voltage and a trigger signal from the
crank sensor or PCM. If the module has good inputs, but is not switching the coil(s) on and off, the module has
reached the end of the road.