Form l84l6

Revised
October, 1929

INSTRUCTIONS
FOR USING

SI N G E R
ELECTRIC SEWING MACHINQS
101-4 AND 101-12 ‘

WITH 5. U. MOTOR
(ATTACHMENTS 120606)
LOCK STITCH, FOR FAMILY USE

When Raquiring Look for the

”Miles, Oil. Red "5"
Pirti‘br. ‘ There an
Repair: for Singer Slurp: in
- Your Machine Every City

THE SINGER MANUFACTURING CO.

PRINTED IN (7. S. A.
 THE IMPORTANCE OF USING
SINGER LUBRICANTS FOR YOUR
ELECTRIC SEWING MACHINE

“The Best is the Cheap‘est”

Use Singer Oil on Machine

Knowing from many years' experience
the great importance of using good oil,
we put up an extra quality machine
oil, in bottles, especially prepared for
sewing machines.

Use Singer Lubricant on Motor

The Singer Motor Lubricant is espe-
cially prepared for lubricating the gears
and bearings of the electric motor. This
is a pure non-flowing compound which
retains its consistency and possesses
high lubricating qualities.

Copyright. U.S.:\t,191-"i. 1920, 1921.1“22, 1923, 19213, 1928

and 1929.1)y The Singer Manufacturing Co.
All Rights Resurvud for all Countries
 SINGER
ELECTRIC SEWING MACHINES
101-4 AND IOI-IZ
WITH ATTACHMENTS 120606

HORIZONTAL ROTARY HOOK FOR FAMILY USE

CABINET 40

THE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY

 DESCRIPTION

Machine 101-4, for family use, has a horizontal

rotary sewing hook and makes the lock stitch‘
It is especially designed for operation by elec-
tricity, having an efficient electric motor built in
the back of its arm, the speed of the machine being
controlled by means of a knee lever.
It is also equipped with the electric Singerlight.
Cabinets 40 and 306, shown on pages 1 and 10,
respectively, are intended for use with Machine
101-4. When closed, either of these cabinets resembles
an attractive desk or library table, the sewing
machine and motor being entirely concealed.

Machine 101-12 is the same as Machine 101-4

except that the heavy parts are made of aluminum
which reduces the weight of the machine to the
minimum so that it is easy to carry.

Portable Case 204, shown on pages 11 and 12,

is regularly sent out with this machine.
 4

Motor Can be Operated on Either Alternating

Current or Direct Current
The electric motor, which is built in Machines
101-4 and 101-12, can be operated on either direct
current or 25 to 75 cycle alternating current Without
change of adjustment. The standard windings of
the motor are for 110 volts, but motors can also
be furnished for any voltage between 50 and 250.
Special motors for 32 volts direct current and
above 75 cycle alternating: current have also been
developed and are available.

Points to Determine Before Connecting

Motor to Electric Service Line
Obtain the following information from the Electric
Light Company which supplies the electric current
for the circuit to which the motor is to be connected:
1. Whether alternating current or direct current
is used.
2. What is the voltage? The voltage must be within
the range stamped on the motor name plate (B,
Fig. 2, page 5).
3. If the electric service line is alternating current,
what is the number of cycles? The number of cycles
must be within the range stamped on the motor
name plate.
4. The current and voltage of the electric service
line and, if alternating; current, the number of cycles,
can be verified by looking at the name plate on
electric meter installed by the local Electric Light
Company.
 5

To Remove the Motor Cover

Turn the motor cover (C, Fig. 2) over toward the
balance wheel and pull it outwardly to remove it,
thus exposing the motor name plate (B, Fig. 2).

FIG. 2. Moron COVER REMOVED Saowmo

MOTOR NAME PLATE

When replacing the motor cover (C), have the

two notches in the cover engage the pins at the top
and bottom of the motor frame.
 6

To Open Cabinet 40
(Sm: Fuss. 3, 4, 5 AND G)

Raise the two leaves at the top of the table and

the supporting rod will automatically spring out at

Free. 3 AND 4. To OPEN CABINET 40

the left of the table. Allow the left leaf to rest on

the supporting rod and the right leaf to hang
loosely at the right of the table, as shown in Fig. 4.
With the right hand raise the front hinged portion
(B, Fig. 5) of the table, and at the same time, place
the left hand under the front side of the arm of the
machine, as shown in Fig. 5, being very careful
not to touch the electric lamp or shade, and
raise the sewing machine head, then replace the
hinged portion of the table and lower the machine
so that it rests on the table, as shown in Fig. 6.
 Fro. 5. RAISING MACHINE. OUT OF CABINET 40
Pull down the knee lever (Q) to the vertical posi-
tion as shown in Fig. 6.

FIG. 6. KNEE LEVER LOWERED T0 OPERATING POSITION

on CABINET 40
ALSO ELECTRICAL CONNECTION
 8
To Connect Machine 101-4 on Cabinet 40 to
Electric Service Line
Push the terminal plug at one end of the electric
cord as for as it will go on the three-pin terminal
block under the cabinet, as shown at (P) in Fig. 6.
Attach the plug at the other end of the cord to
the nearest electric socket and the machine is
ready for operation.

To Open Cabinet 306

With the right hand push in the lever (L, Fig. 7)
at the right of the table and at the same time with
the left hand raise the hinged flaps of the table top
as shown at M in Fig. 7.

Fm. 7. To Orr-m (harm-z? 306

 FIG. 8. To OPEN CABINET 306

Fold back the hinged flaps as shown in Figs. 8 and

9, having the catch (N, Fig. 8) enter the spring clip
(0, Fig. 8).

ZʼbbF .

Fla. 9. To OPEN CABXNET 306

 10

Raise the sewing machine head out of the cabinet

as shown in Fig. 5, being very careful not to
touch the electric lamp or shade, then turn down
the hinged flaps of the table top and lower the ma-
chine so that it rests on the table as shown in Fig. 10.

FIG. 10. KNEE LEVER LOWERED To OPERATING POSITION

ON CABINET 306
ALso ELECTRICAL. CONNECTION

Pull down the knee lever (Q) to the vertical posi-

ion as shown in Fig. 10.
Fig. 10 shows the swing-out drawer at the left of
the table. This drawer is provided with holders for
spools, bobbins and oil can and has a cmnpartmcnt
for the box of attachments.
 11

To Connect Machine 101-4 on Cabinet 306 to

Electric Service Line
Push the terminal plug at one end of the electric
cord as far as it will go on the three—pin terminal
block under the cabinet as shown at P in Fig. 10.
Attach the plug at the other end of the cord to the
‘ nearest electric socket and the machine is ready
for operation.

To Open Portable Set 204

After removing the cover, remove the knee lever
(S, Fig. 11) from the two cleats (R, Fig. 11).

17m. 11. KNEE LEVER m POSITION m COVER

 FIG. 12. PLACING KNEE LEVER IN POSITION
ON PORTABLE SET 204

Hold the knee lever in a horizontal position with

the handle toward the left as shown in Fig. 12, and
push the end of the lever into the socket (T, Fig. 12).
Fro. 13. KNEE LEVER IN POSITION READY FOR OPERATION oN
PORTABLE SET 204
ALso ELECTRICAL CONNECTION

Allow the knee lever to drop to the vertical

position as shown in Fig. 13 and the end of the
lever will engage the stop in the knee lever socket.
 14

To Connect Machine 101-12 on Portable Set 204

to Electric Service Line
Push the terminal plug at one end of the electric
cord as far as it will go on the three-pin terminal
block at the right of the cabinet as shown at U in
Fig. 13. Attach the plug at the other end of the cord
to the nearest electric socket and the machine is
ready for operation.

To Ensure Perfect Action of the Machine

The balance wheel must always turn over toward
the operator.
Do not run the machine with the presser foot
resting on the feed without cloth under the presser
foot.
Do not run the machine when both bobbin ease
and needle are threaded, unless there is material
under the presser foot.
Do not try to help the machine by pulling the
fabric, lest you bend the needle. The machine feeds
the work without assistance.
The slide over the bobbin case should be kept
closed when the machine is in operation.

To Turn Singerlight “On” or “Off”

Reach over the top of the machine and move the
switch lever (V, Fig. 14) to the right or left as
desired.
To Remove and Replace the Bulb
To remove the bulb, hold the Singerlight socket
tightly with one hand and with the other hand
turn the shade halfway around until the pin (W,
 15

Fig. 14) for the shade is in the slot of the shade, then
gently slip the shade off and allow it to hang free as
shown in Fig. 14.

Pro. 14

Do not attempt to unscrew the bulb. It is of

the bayonet and socket type and does not unscrew.
Press the bulb into the socket and at the same
time turn it until the bulb pin (X, Fig. 14) is out
of the notch in the socket, then withdraw the
bulb and shade.
To insert a new bulb, pass the bulb through the
collar of the shade with the slot of the shade up-
ward. Hold the socket tightly with one hand and
at the same time with the other hand press the
bulb into the socket with the bulb pin (X, Fig. 14)
in the slot and turn it until this pin is in the notch.
Then slip the shade over the socket, the pin (W,
Fig. 14) for the shade entering the slot of the shade.
See that the pin (W) is in the groove of the shade
and turn the shade halfway around, or until it is
at the top.
 16

CAUTION
When you have finished your sewing, always
disconnect the plug from the electric socket.

To Close Cabinets 40 and 306

Remove the plug from the electric socket, also
remove the plug from the three-pin terminal block
under the cabinet and coil the electric cord around
the machine.
With the left hand grasp the machine around the
front side of the arm, turn it slightly back on its
hinges, and at the same time, with the right hand,
raise the front hinged portion (B, Fig. 5, page 7)
of the table, lower the machine head, being care-
ful not to touch the electric lamp or shade;
then lower the hinged portion (B).
On Cabinet 40 close the leaves, push in the sup-
porting rod and swing back the knee lever.
On Cabinet 306, unfold the hinged flaps of the
table top and place them into position, then swing
back the knee lever.

To Pack Up Portable Set 204

Remove the plug from the electric socket, also
remove the plug from the three—pin terminal block
at the right of the cabinet and coil the electric
cord around the machine. Raise the knee lever
to a horizontal position, remove it and replace it
in the two cleats (R, Fig. 11) in the cover. Re-
place the cover and lock it.
 17

Instructions for Operating the Machine

Raise the presser foot (F, Fig. 15) by means of
the presser bar lifter (H, Fig. 15) to prevent injury
to the foot (F, Fig. 15) and feed (E, Fig. 15).

FIG. 15. FRONT wa or THE MACHINE

Place a piece of cloth under the presser foot and
let the foot down upon it.
To Start the Machine
Turn on the electric current, press the knee lever
to the right. As the pressure on the knee lever is
increased the- speed of the machine is increased,
the speed being controlled entirely by the amount
of pressure on the knee lever. Operate the machine
in this way, without being threaded, until you have
become accustomed to guiding the material and
operating the knee lever.
 18

To Remove the Bobbin

Draw to the left the slide in the bed of the machine
and take out the bobbin with the thumb and fore-
finger of the left hand, as shown in Fig. 16.

FIG. 16. REMOVING THE BOBBIN

To Wind the Bobbin

It is necessary to understand the stop motion
(B, Fig. 17) by which the balance wheel (C, Fig. 17)
can be released when required, thus permitting the
winding of bobbins without running the stitching
mechanism.
To release the balance wheel (C, Fig. 17) turn the
stop motion screw (B, Fig. 17) over toward you.
It is necessary to hold the balance wheel while
loosening the stop motion screw.
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle
(E, Fig. 17) and push it up closely against the
shoulder having the small pin in the shoulder enter
the hole in the side of the bobbin. Put the spool of
thread on the spool pin (1, Fig. 17) located on the
bed of the machine at the right. Draw the thread
under and between the tension discs (2, Fig. 17)
on the bed of the machine at the right of the spool
pin, then pass the thread through the hole in the left
side of the bobbin (3, Fig. 17) from the inside.
 19

Press down on the bobbin and the bobbin winder

latch (A, Fig. 17) will drop down and hold the bobbin

Fm. 17. Wixmxo THE Bounm

winder pulley against the hub of the balance wheel.
Then press the knee lever the same as for sewing.
The end of the thread must be held by the hand
until a few coils are wound and should then be
broken off. When sufficient thread has been wound
upon the bobbin, the bobbin winder is automatically
released from the balance wheel.
If the pressure of the bobbin winder pulley against
the hub of the balance wheel is insufficient for wind-
ing the bobbin, loosen the adjusting screw (F, Fig. 17)
and press down on the bobbin winder until the pulley
is in contact with the hub of the balance wheel,
then tighten the adjusting screw (F).
Bobbins can also be wound while the machine is
sewing.
 20
To Replace the Bobbin
Hold the bobbin between the thumb and fore-
finger of the left hand, the thread drawing on top
from the right toward the left, as shown in Fig. 18.

FIG. 18. REPLACING THE Boom):

Place the bobbin in the bobbin case and draw

the thread into the slot (1, Fig. 19) in the bobbin
case at the left, as shown in Fig. 19.

FIG. 19. Tnnmmxo TnE Bonnm CASE

 21

Draw the thread backward between the bobbin

case and the tension spring until it reaches the notch

Fro. 20. 801mm CASE ’I HREADED

l I _ (2, Fig. 20), then pull the thread toward the right,
as shown in Fig. 20.
When closing the slide, leave just enough space
for the thread to pass through, as shown at 3, in
Fig. 21.

FIG. 21. UNDER THREADING COMPLETED

 22

To Set the Needle

Turn the balance wheel over toward you until the
needle bar moves up to its highest point; loosen the
thumb screw (B, Fig. 15, page 17) in the needle clamp
(G, Fig. 15) and put the needle up into the clamp as
far as it will go, with the flat side of its shank toward
the right, then tighten the thumb screw. To select
the correct needle, see page 53.

To Thread the Needle

(SEE FIG. 22 ON THE FOLLOWING PAGE)

Turn the balance wheel over toward you until the

thread take-up lever (5) is raised to its highest point.
Place the spool of thread on the spool pin at the top
of the machine; pass the thread into the thread guide
(1) at the left, down, under and from right to left
between the tension discs (2). Hold the spool
tightly in the right hand and with the left hand pull
the thread up under the thread take-up spring (4)
until it enters the retaining fork (3), then pass the
thread up and from right to left through the hole
(5) in the end of the thread take-up lever, down
into the eyelet (6) at the front of the face plate,
into the lower wire thread guide (7), then from left
to right through the eye of the needle (8). Draw
about two inches of thread through the eye of the
needle with which to commence sewing.
FIG. 22. THREADING THE NEEDLE!
 24
To Prepare for Sewing
With the left hand hold the end of the needle
thread, leaving it slack from the hand to the needle.

FIG. 23. DRAWING UP THE BOBBIN THREAD

Turn the balance wheel over toward ou until the

needle moves down and up again to its ighest point,
thus catching the bobbin thread, draw up the needle
thread and the bobbin thread will come up with it
through the hole in the throat plate, as shown in
Fig. 23. Lay both threads back under the presser
foot and close the slide.
To Commence Sewing
Place the material beneath the presser foot, lower
the presser foot and commence to sew, pressing the
knee lever (Q, Fig. 6, page 7) to the right to start
the machine.
When sewing thick material, it may be necessary
to turn the balance wheel over toward you by hand
to start the machine. This should also be done if
the machine stops when sewing across thick seams.
 25
To Remove the Work
Let the thread take-up lever rest at its highest
point, raise the presser foot and draw the fabric
back and to the left about two inches; pass the
threads over the thread cutter (A, Fig. 23) and pull
down lightly to sever them. Leave the ends of the
threads under the presser foot.

Tensions
For ordinary stitching, the needle and bobbin
threads should be locked in the centre of the
thickness of the material, thus:

FIG. 24. PERFECT Sʼrx'rcn

If the tension on the needle thread is too tight, or

if that on the bobbin thread is too loose, the needle
thread will lie straight along the upper surface of.
the material, thus:

FIG. 25. Tron-r NEEDLE THREAD TENSION

If the tension on the bobbin thread is too tight, or

if that on the needle thread is too loose, the bobbin
thread will lie straight along the under side of the
material, thus:

= energietagl
FIG. 26. LoosE NEEDLE THREAD TENSION
 26
To Regulate the Tensions
The tension on the needle thread should only be
regulated when the presser foot is down. Having
lowered the presser foot, turn the small thumb nut
(A, Fig. 15, page 17) at the front of the tension discs
over to the right to increase the tension. To decrease
the tension, turn the thumb nut over to the left.
The tension on the bobbin thread is regulated by

,
mean-z
the larger screw (A, Fig. 18, page 20) which is nearest
the back in the bobbin case tension spring. To
increase the tension, turn the screw over toward
you. To decrease the tension, turn the screw over
from you.
When the tension on the bobbin thread has been
once properly adj usth it is seldom necessary to
change it, as a correct stitch can usually be Obtained
by varying the tension on the needle thread.

To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine with the needle at its lowest
point. Raise the presser foot and turn the work as
desired, using the needle as a pivot.

To Regulate the Length of Stitch

.

The length of the stitch is regulated by the feed

afl~flk

regulating disc (D, Fig. 17, page 19) located on the

bed of the machine, at the right. This disc is marked
with arbitrary numbers, ranging from 6 to 30, which
indicate the various lengths of stitches that the
machine will make, No. 6 being the longest stitch
and No. 30 the shortest stitch (The numerals do
not denote the number of stitches to the inch). The
length of stitch that the machine is ready to make
is indicated by the number nearest the arrow
marked on the cloth plate of the machine.
 27
To increase the length of stitch, turn the feed
regulating disc (D) over to the right until the
number of the desired length of stitch is nearest to
the point of the arrow. To shorten the stitch, turn
the feed regulating disc over to the left until the
number of the desired length of stitch is nearest
to the point of. the arrow.
awn-kt

To Regulate the Pressure on the Material

For ordinary family sewing, it is seldom necessary
to change the pressure on the material. If sewing
fine silk or flimsy material, lighten the pressure by
turning the thumb screw (A, Fig. 29, page 29) on
the top of the machine over to the left. To increase
the pressure. turn this thumb screw over to the right.
The pressure should be only heavy enough to pre-
vent the material from rising with the needle and to
enable the feed to move the work along evenly; a
heavier pressure will make the machine run hard.

To Sew Flannel or Bias Seams

Use a short stitch and as light a tension as possible
on the needle thread so as to leave the thread loose
enough in the seam to allow the' goods to stretch
if necessary.
A Stitch to Ravel Easily
can be made if desired, by having the tension on
the needle thread so light that the bobbin thread
will not draw into the goods, but lie straight, as
shown in Fig. 26, page 25.
 28
To Oil the Machine
To ensure easy running and prevent unnecessary
wear of the parts Whlcll are in movable contact, the

Fro. 27. FRONT View, SHOWING OILING POINTS

machine requires oiling, and if used continuously, it
should be oiled each day. With moderate use, an
occasional oiling is sufficient. Oil should be applied
at each of the places shown by arrows in Figs. 27,
2S and 29. One drop of oil at each point is sufficient
with the exception of the oil hole (C, Fig. 27) into
which hole about 12 drops of oil should be poured
each time the machine is oiled. Oil holes are pro-
vided in the machine for bearings which cannot be
.‘—fiu.

directly reached.
To oil the hook
mechanism, draw to
the left the slide in
the bed of the ma-
chine and after rc~
moving the lint and
dust which may have
accumulated around
the sewing hook, take
FIG. 28. VIEW0 OF Snwme HOOK
v applythe
01”,
a drop of Oiland
bObbln to
SHOWING mm Pom“ the 011 hole and bob-
 29
bin case bearing, as indicated by arrows in Fig. 28,
then replace the bobbin and slide plate.
To oil movable parts in the head of the machine,
take out the screw (B, Fig. 27) near the lower end of
the face plate and loosen the screw (A, Fig. 27)
AT-

FIG. 29. END VIEW, SIIowrNG OILING POINTS

near the upper end of the face plate, then raise the
plate and Sllp it off over the head of the screw (A).
Put one drop of oil into each of the holes and joints
thus uncovered, as shown in Fig. 29.
The gears of the motor should occasionally be
lubricated with grease from the tube of Singer Motor
Lubricant which is furnished with the machine. Un-
screw the spool pin (E, Fig. 27)—a slot being cut at
the top of the spool pin to permit the use of a screw-
driver. After removing the spool pin and felt washer
(D, Fig. 27) insert the tip of the motor lubricant
tube into the spool pin hole and force a small quan—
tity of the lubricant through the hole to lubricate
the gears. then replace the spool pin and felt washer.
Under no circumstances should oil be used at
this hole, but only the lubricant.
 30

To Lubricate the Motor

1. When the machine is shipped from the factory
the two motor grease cups (1111, Fig. 30) are filled

Fro. 30. Vmw or Moron, Snowrxe GREASE Cues Remover)

with sufficient lubricant for one year’s use, under

ordinary circumstances.
2. At least once a year thereafter, these grease
cups should be removed, thoroughly cleaned out and
refilled with the Singer Motor Lubricant, furnished
with the machine. To do this, the motor must be
removed from the machine.
3. To remove the motor.
4-—

(a) Remove the motor cover (C, Fig. 2, page 5).

(b) Remove the screw (F, Fig. 27, page 28)
which holds the motor.
(0) Withdraw the entire motor (J, Fig. 30)
from the machine by turning it slightly
from side to side and at the same time pulling
it toward you. The motor should the only be
withdrawn far enough to expose two
 31
grease cups (HH, Fig. “30). Do not dis-
connect any of the electric wiring of
the machine or the motor.

E fflii J

Fro. 31. VIEW OF Moron, SHOWING LUBRICANT WELL AND

SPmAL DmerG PINION
(di Unscrew the two grease cups (HH, Fig. 30).
(e) Both the wicks and the interior of the grease
cups should be thoroughly cleaned of all old
grease. Then replace the wicks in the cups
and refill the cups with Singer Motor Lubri-
cant (not oil).

FIG. 32. BACK VIEW, SHOWING BEvEL GEARS IN

Aim OF MACHINE
 32

(f) Fill the well (K, Fig. 31) in which the spiral
pinion (L, Fig. 31) revolves, with Singer
Motor Lubricant (not oil).
(g) Apply ordinary vaseline to the teeth of the
two bevel gears (M, Fig. 32) next the spiral
gears. (The greasing of these two bevel
gears should be done at the same time
when the motor grease cups are refilled,
inasmuch as they can only be reached when
the motor has been withdrawn from the
sewing machine head).
(h) Replace the grease cups, being sure that
the chks (GG, Fig. 30) enter the small
holes which lead to the armature shaft.
(i) Replace the motor in the machine
28).
(j) Replace the screw (F, Fig. 27, page im-
The final position of the motor has an the
portant bearing on the free running of
machine, and it may be necessary to slightly
shift the motor to the left or right before
the final tightening of the screw (F, Fig. 27).
(k) Replace the motor cover.

To Lubricate the Bevel Gears

1. There are three sets of bevel gears
in the
machine, as shown at (M, Fig. 32) and (N andonce
0,
Fig. 33). These bevel gears should be greased motor.
a year, preferably at the time of greasing the
2. The method of greasing the upper set of
bevel
in
gears (M, Flg. 32), i.e., those which are located
been ex-
close proximity to the motor itself, has Motor.”
plained under the heading“To Lubricate the
 33
3. The two lower sets of bevel gears (N and 0,
Fig. 33) are exposed by removing the two round

301.03 ;
FIG. 33. BASE Vmw, Si—mwrNG BEVEL Gems
IN BED or MAcmNB

sheet metal covers located in the bottom of the

machine. This can be done with a small screw driver.
4. Ordinary vaseline should be applied to the
teeth of these two sets of gears in the same manner
as described in the upper bevel gears in 3 (g) under
the heading “To Lubricate the Motor.”
5. Replace the sheet metal covers.

To Oil the Controller

Also occasionally lubricate the bearing points of
the controller mechanism located beneath the ma-
chine at the right of the cabinet.
 34

HINTS
Machine Working Heavily. If the machine runs
hard after standing idle for some time, use a little
kerosene in the oiling places, run the machine
rapidly, then wipe clean and oil.
To Avoid Breaking Needles. See that the presser
foot or attachments are securely fastened by the
thumb screw. Do not sew heavy scams or very
thick goods with too fine a needle. A large needle
and thread to correspond should be used on heavy
work (see page 53).
See that the needle is not bent and avoid pulling
the material when stitching.
Breaking of Needle Thread. If the needle
thread breaks it may be caused by:
Improper threading.
Tension being too tight.
The thread being too coarse for size of needle.
The needle being bent, having a blunt point,
or being set incorrectly.
Breaking of Bobbin Thread. If the bobbin
thread breaks it may be caused by:
Improper threading of bobbin ease.
Tension being too tight.
Skipping of Stitches. The needle may not be
accurately set into the needle bar or the needle may
be blunt or bent. The needle may be too small for
the thread in use.
 INSTRUCTTONS
FOR USING

ATTACHMENTS
120606

WITH

SINGER

h
ELECTRIC SEWING MACHINES
1014 AND 101-12

Genuine Singer Needles and their Con-

tainers are marked with the Company’s
Trade Mark “SIMANCO.” 1

Needles in Containers marked

“For Singer Machines”
are not Singer made needles. 2
 36
FOOT HEMMER—Hemming
Raise the needle to its highest point. Remove
the presser foot and attach the foot hammer in its

Flu. 34

place (see Fig. 34). (flip off the right hand corner
of the cloth, so that it will take the roll easily, turn
up the edge about a quarter of an inch, insert it in
the mouth of the hemmer and draw or push it along
until under the needle. Then let down the presser
bar, and after taking two or three stitches, draw
gently on the ends of the threads to help the work
along till the feed catches it. In order to produce
a smooth even hem, the mouth of the hemmer
must be kept just full.
Fig. 34 also shows what is known as a bag seam
or fell, made by passing two pieces of fabric through
the hemmer together and hemming them down.
 37
FOOT HEMMER—Hemming and Sewing
on Lace
Start the hem as previously explained, and when
it is well started, raise the needle to its highest point.

FIG. 35

Raise the hemmer to relieve its pressure on the hem,

pass the end of the lace through the slot in the side
of the hemmer, under the back of the hemmer and
over the hem, as shown in Fig. 35.
Take care that the hem is not displaced in the
hemmer and that the needle goes down through the
lace and hem together. Then let down the presser
bar and guide the lace over the front of the hemmcr,
keeping it well into the slot.

FOOT HEMMER—Felling
The two pieces of cloth to be felled should be laid
one over the other, right sides together, the edge
of the under piece being a little farther to the right
 38

than the upper piece. Stitch them~ together, using

the heiiiiiier as a presser foot, the trout end of the

Fifi. 3G

heminer forming a guide for the edges of both pieces,

the upper piece being guided by the inside and the
under piece by the outside of the projecting front of

i. E 3.4121

Fm. 37
the foot hemmer (see Fig. 361. Then open the work
out flat, “Tong side up, the edges standing up
 35)

straight, and taking the cdgcs 110111“ the beginning of

the scam in the right hand, and the ends of 1he
thrcuds in the left hand, draw the edges into the
hcuuucr, which will turn lll(‘lll as in hcmming. Guide
the second row of stitching by following the first
row with the inside of the projecting front of the
foot henuncr (see Fig. 37, page 38).
ADJUSTABLE HEMMER~Hemming
Remove the prcsscr foot and attach the adjustublc
hemmer in its place as shown in Fig. 38. This

Fro. 38
hcmmcr will turn hcnls from 135 in. to {f} in. wide.
The adjustment is made by loosening the thumb
scrcw on the hcmmer and moving the scale to the
right or left until the hem turned is of the desired
width. Place the cloth undcr the hemmer and draw
the cdge toward the left under the scale, as shown
in Fig. 38. Draw the edge of the cloth back and
forth until the hem is formcd, stopping with the end
under the needle. Lower the presser bar and com-
mence to sew, bcing careful to so guide cloth as to
keep hcmincr full.
 40
ADJUSTABLE HEMMER—Wide Hemming
To make a hem more than $3 inch wide, loosen
the thumb screw in the hemmer and move the scale

Fro. 39

to the right as far as it will go, then swing it toward

you as shown in Fig. 39 and tighten the thumb
screw. Fold and crease down a hem of the desired
width; pass the fold under the extension at the right
of the hemmer, and the edge into the folder as
shown in, Fig. 39, and proceed to stitch the hem.
BlNDER——Binding
Remove the presser foot and attach the binder in
its place. Pass the binding through the scroll of
the binder and draw it back under the needle.
Place the edge of the goods to be bound between
the scrolls of the binder and draw it under the needle.
Lower the presser bar and sew as usual. To make
French folds, proceed as directed for binding, except
that the fold is stitched on to the face of the material
 41
instead of on the edge (see Fig. 40). After
the binder set screw and adjusting loosening
the binder, the

Fri} 40

line of stitching can be brought nearer

the centre,
this being more elTective when making French
folds.

TUCKER
Remove the presser foot and attach
in its place. The width of the tuck the tucker
is determined
by the scale of figures nearest the needle,
shows in eighths and sixteentlis of an inch which
tance of the edge of the fold from the line the dis—
The crease or mark for the second and of stitching.
tucks is determined by the scale nearest following
and this is set by the line in front of thethe operator
in the presser foot. For blind tucks without needle hole
adjust the scale nearest the operator spaces,
figure opposite the line on the presser so that the
the same as that at which the guide isfoot will be
the scale nearest the needle. To located on
tween the tiicks, move the front scale make spaces be-
left until the deSired space is obtained.farther to the
 as
Having adjusted the scales for tiiek and spacepass
desired, fold the material and crease by hand;

FIG. 41

the folded edge between the blades spring and spur near
you, then between the two of the second
scale, and back under the preSser foot; draw to the
right against the guide, lower the presser bar; see
for the needle clamp to strike is in
that the lever
to form a crease for the
its backward position, so as
next tuck, then proceed with the first tuck.
For the second tuck, fold carefullyof at the
the crease
first tuck
made by the spur and place the edge
underneath and against the spur will at the left. The
spur will serve as a guide and Always also make a
distinct crease for the next tuck. place the
last tuck against the spur to ensure perfect work.
When making the last tuck, the lever upon which
the needle clamp strikes while tucking: should be
is in this
raised to its highest point; while the lever is made
position, no crease for a succeeding tuck
upon the goods.
 43
Ruffler
Lines 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 shown in Fig. 42 indicate
where the material is to be placed for various
operations, as follows:

E 7801
FIG. 42. THE RUFFLER AND ITS PARTS

l Line l—the correct position for the material to

which the ruffled material is applied.
Line 2—material to be ruffled.
Line Sithe facing for the ruffle.
Line 4~ the strip of piping material.
Line 5—the edge to be piped.
Refer to Fig. 42 when inserting the material in
the rufiler.
 44

The names and uses of the principal parts of the

rufiier are as follows:
(SEE REFERENCES 1x Fro. 42)
A—Foo'r—the part by which the ruffler is attached
to the presser bar.
B—FORK Aanthe section that must be placed
astride the needle clamp.
C—ADJUSTING SCREW—the screw that regulates the
fullness of the gather.
D—PROJECTIONFthe part that projects through the
slots in the adjusting lever.
E—ADJUSTING LEVER—the lever that sets the ruffler
for gathering or for making a plait once at
every six stitches or once at every twelve
stitches, as desired; also for disengaging the
ruffler, when either plaiting or gathering is not
desired.
F—ADJUSTING FINGER—the part which regulates
the width or size of the plaits.
Cr—SEPARATOR GUIDE-the guide on the underside
of the ruffler, containing slots into which the
edge of the material is placed to keep the
heading of the ruffle even; also for separating
the material to be ruffled from the material to
which the ruffle is to be attached.
H—RUFFLING BLADE the upper blue steel blade
with the teeth at the end to push the material
in plaits up to the needle.
J—SEPARATOR BLADE—the lower blue steel blade
without teeth, which prevents the teeth of the
ruffling blade coming into contact with the
feed of the machine, or the material to which
ruffle or plaiting is to be applied.
To Attach the Ruffler to the Machine
Raise the needle bar to its highest point and re-
move the presser foot. Attach the ruffler feet (A,
Fig. 42) to the presser bar by means of the thumb
screw, at the same time placing the fork arm
(B, Fig. 42) astride the needle clamp as shown in
Fig. 43.
 45
To Adjust the Ruffler for Gathering
The adjusting finger (F, Fig. 43) is not
for gathering and should be moved forward intended
from the needle, as shown In Fig. 43. or away

Flu. 43

Raise the adjusting lever (E, Fig. 43) and move it

to the left so that the projection (D, Fig. 43) will
enter the slot marked “1” in the adjusting lever (E)
when the lever is released. The ruffiing blade will
then move forward and back‘onee at every stitch.
Insert the material to be ruffled. between the two
blue blades, following the line 2 in Fig. 42. Draw
the material slightly back of the needle, lower the
presser bar and commence to sew.
To make fine gathering, shorten the stroke of the
ruffling blade, also shorten the stitch. To make full
gathering, lengthen the stroke of the ruffling blade
by turning the adjusting serew (C) downwardly,
also lengthen the stitch. By varying these adjust-
ments, man pleasing varieties of work can be
aceomplishedi
 40

To Make a Ruffle and Sew it to a

Garment in One Operation
_ Insert the material to be ruffled between the two
blue blades, as shown in Fig. 44, following" the line

Fm. 44

2, in Fig. 42. Place the garment to which the

ruffle is to be attached, under the separator blade,
following the line 1, in Fig. 42. Proceed the same
as for gathering.
The edge of the ruffled seam can be bound by
using the binder.
To Ruffle and Sew on a Facing
in One Operation
Insert the material to be ruffled between the two
blue blades, following the line 2, in Fig. 42. Place
the garment to which the ruffle is to be attached,
under the separator blade, following the line 1, in
Fig. 42. Place the material for the facing over the
upper blue blade, as shown in Fig. 45, following
the line 3, in Fig. 42. The facing may be straight
or bias material. If the facing is to be on the
right side of the garment, place the garment and
 47
the ruffle so that the wrong sides are together.
the facmg is to be on the wrong If
side. plate the right;
sides of the gai‘iiieiit and the rufile together.

t
Fm. 15
Piping a Ruffle
Insert the material to be ruffled between
blue blades, following the line 2, in the two
Fig. 42. This

Fm. 4G
material must not be over 11/4 inches
it is carried through the miller . wide, as _

with the finished

 4S

edge of the ruffle to the right of the attachment

as shown in Fig. 40.
The material for piping must measure about M
inch wide when folded in the centre and is usually
cut on the bias. Place the piping material in the
ruiilcr, following the line 4, in Fig. 42, with the
folded edge of the piping to the right. The material
to which the piping and milling arc to be sewn
should be folded on the edge and inserted in the
ruiller, following the line 5, in Fig. 42.
To Adjust the Ruffler for Plaiting
_ Raise the adjusting lever (l‘l. Fig. 47) and move
it to the right so that the projection (D, Fig. 47)

FIG. 47

will enter the slot marked “G” in the adjusting lever

when the lever is released. The ruffling blade will
then move forward and back once at every six
stitches. To adjust the rullling blade to make a
plait Once at every twelve stitches. place the adjust-
ing levcr (E, Fig. 47) so that the projection (D)
enters the slot marked “12” in the adjusting lever.
Insert the material to be plaitcd between the two
blue blades, following the line 2, Fig. 42. The size
or width of plaits is regulated by the adjusting screw
 it)
(C, Fig. 47) and the adjusting linger (F, Fig. 417).
To make a wider plait, move the adjusting linger
(F) back or toward the, needle and turn the adjust—
ing screw (C) downwardly. To make a smaller
plaity turn the adjusting screw (C) upwardly. The
distance between plaits is regulated by the length
of stitch.
To Adjust the Ruffler for
Group Plaiting and Gathering
The. ruffier can be adjusted for group plaitingr by
lifting the adjusting lever (E, Fig. 48) and moving

it to the right so that; the top of the projection

(D, Fig. 48) engages the small slot indicated by the
star on the adjusting lever. This should be done at
the points where you wish to make the space be—
tween the plaits. The rut'tler will then stop and
plain stitching will be made. When the desired space
has been made, adjust the lever (1C) so that the pro-
jection (D) enters either the slot marked "ti" or the
slot marked “12.” By alternately making groups of
plaits and plain spaces, as shown in Fig. 4s, very
attractive work can he produced.
 50

To Oil the Ruffle:-

Occasionally apply a drop of oil to the working
parts of the rufiler at each of the places indicated by
arrows in Fig. 48. After oiling, operate the ruffler
on a waste piece of material to prevent the oil
soiling the work. If the ruffler does not plait evenly,
a. drop of oil may remedy the trouble.

Slide Plate
When it is necessary to replace a slide plate in a
cloth plate, this can be done by removing the cloth
plate from the machine and slipping the slide plate
into the slideway from the throat plate end; or, if
desired, the slide plate can be replaced with the
cloth plate attached to the machine by holding the
slide plate at an angle of 45 degrees across the slide
opening and slipping one end of the spring under
one side of the slideway, then tipping the slide plate
the
and slipping the other end of the spring underslide
opposite side of the slideway and swinging the
plate around straight, so that it will drop into
position.
To Use the Cloth Guide
To ensure accurate guiding of the work when
sewing close to the edge of the goods, the cloth
guide (D, Fig. 15, page 17) should be used. Fasten by
the cloth guide to the cloth plate of the machine
means of the clamping thumb screw (C, Fig. the 15)
inserting the thumb screw into either one of
two screw holes in the cloth plate of the machine.
edge of
The cloth guide can be adjusted to bring the desired.
the goods as close to the line of stitching as
 51
To Use the Stripping Foot for
Embroidery or Darning
Remove the presser foot (F, Fig. 15, page 17).
take out the needle, remove the needle clamp (G,

Fm. 49. MACHINE THREADED FOR EMBROIDERY AND DARNING

Fig. 15), put on the stripping foot and needle clamp

combined. N 0. 86294 (A, Fig. 49). Replace the
needle and put on the feed cover plate, No. 66628
(B, Fig. 49). Then thread the machine as instructed
on page 22 with the addition that the thread must
be passed through the hole (C, Fig. 49) in the bottom
of the stripping foot (the yielding ring) before pass-
ing the thread through the eye of the needle.
Having placed the work to be darned or em-
broidered in two embroidery hoops, place the work
under the needle, as shown in Fig. 50, page 52,
holding the needle thread in the usual way with
the finger and thumb of the left hand and turn the
balance wheel over toward you with the right hand
to draw up the bobbin thread.
Let down the Presser Bar to restore the tension
on the needle thread, then start the machine by
 52
pressing the knee lever and steadily move the work
front and back in the usual way. The darning Or

FIG. 50. DARNING wrm THE Srmprme Foo'r

embroidery will be quickly accomplished with ease

and without skipping of stitches or breaking of
thread.
After you are through with the darning or em-
broidery, raise the presser bar, take out the cm-
broidery hoops encircling the work, take off the feed
cover plate and remove the stripping foot. Replace
the needle clamp and needle and presser foot, and
the machine is again ready for the usual sewing.

Genuine Singer Needles and their Con-

tainers are marked with the Company’s
Trade Mark “SlMANCO.” 1

Needles in Containers marked

“For Singer Machines”
are nit Singer made needles. 2
l
RELATIVE SIZES OF NEEDLES AND THREAD
Class and Variety of Needles Used, 15 x 1)
fl] ZES SIZES OF COTTON,
OF CLASSES OF W'OR K leK On
NEEDLI-m LINEN THREAD

100 to l50 Cotton

Very thin Muslims, Cambries,
00 & 000 Silk
Linens, etc.
Twist

Very fine Calinoes, Linens,

80 to 100 Cotton
11 Shirtings, fine Silk Goods,
0 Silk Twist
etc.

Shirtiugs, Sheeting, Caliroes,

Muslins, Silk and general fin to 80 Cotton
domestic goods and all classes A (l; B Silk Twist
nt‘ general Work.

All kinds of heavy (lalir‘oea,

40 to 60 Cotton
light Woolen Goods, heavy C Silk Twist.
Silk. Seamfing, Stitching. etc.
, .

Tickings, Woolen Goods, 30 to 40 Cotton

Trousers. Boys' Clothing, D Silk Twist
Corsets, Cloaks, M'antlcs, etc.

Heavy Woolens, Tiekinga, 24 to 30 Cotton

Bags, Heavy Coats. Trous- E Silk Twist
ers, etc. Heavy Clothing (50 to 80 Linen
generally.

40 to 60 Linen
21 Bags. Coarse Cloths and Heavy or very
Goods. Course Cotton

When sending orders for needles always specify

the size required.
You will obtain the best stitching results
from your sewing machine if it is fitted with
a Singer Needle.
This Trade Mark Embossed in Brun-
It on the Arm of Every ..
Singer Sewing Machine . i