Homemade organic hydroponic fertilizer

can be created using natural materials like compost tea, worm castings, or a combination of
kitchen scraps and seaweed. A basic approach involves layering carbon-rich materials like straw
or wood chips with nutrient-rich sources like manure or compost, then letting it
decompose. Alternatively, you can create a nutrient-rich solution by mixing ingredients like
calcium nitrate, Epsom salts, and NPK fertilizer.

Here's a breakdown of some methods:

1. Compost Tea:

 Place compost in a bucket with water, stirring and allowing it to sit for 24 hours.
 Compost tea provides a mix of organic fertilizers and active biology.
 It can be "brewed" using a compost tea brewer or a bucket with an air ring for aeration.
2. Worm Castings:

 Worm castings are rich in nutrients and can be added directly to the hydroponic system or used
to create a tea.
 If you don't have worm castings, you can use finished compost in a mesh bag.
3. Kitchen Scraps and Seaweed:

 Collect organic waste like banana peels, coffee grounds, and vegetable scraps.
 Mix with seaweed (fresh or dried) for added nutrients.
 Use a 1:10 ratio of compost to water in a jar, according to Lomi.
4. DIY Nutrient Solution:

 A Solution: Use Master Blend fertilizer and Epsom salts, mixed with warm water, according
to YouTube.
 B Solution: Dissolve calcium nitrate in warm water.
 Mixing: Combine the solutions and water in the proper ratio.
 Alternative: You can also use Calcium Sulphate, NPK fertilizer, and other ingredients in a [Link]
ratio, according to Grow without Soil.
5. Composting for Hydroponics:

 Start with a base layer of carbon-rich material for drainage and airflow.
 Add layers of manure or compost alternating with carbon-rich material.
 Keep the pile moist but not soggy.
Important Considerations:
 pH Levels: Maintain the correct pH levels for your plants (5.5-6.0 for hydroponics), according
to Safer Brand.
 Nutrient Balance: Ensure the solution provides all essential nutrients for plant growth.
 Dilution: Dilute the nutrient solution appropriately based on your specific hydroponic system
and plants.
 Homemade hydroponic organic
[Link]

OMRI nutrient sources

A complete hydroponic solution should provide all substances that are necessary for plant
growth. This means we need to provide nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, calcium,
sulfur, iron, zinc, boron, copper, molybdenum, and manganese. Furthermore, we need to ensure
that all of these nutrients are provided in forms that are available for the plants. This means we
need to find sources that contain all the elements we need and then create a process that makes
all of these nutrients adequately bioavailable. The following are the nutrient sources that we will
be using, all of them are OMRI listed:

Please note the amazon links below are referral links. This means that I get a small commission
when you choose to buy the products through these links, at no extra cost to you.

 Bark compost
 Solubor
 Copper Sulfate
 Corn Steep Liquor
 Ferti-Nitro Plus
 Iron Sulfate
 Magnesium Sulfate
 Manganese Sulfate
 Potassium Sulfate
 Seabird Guano
 Zinc Sulfate

Mixing the solution

 This solution cannot be created in a concentrated form. This means we will be preparing a
solution that will be fed directly to plants. However, since many of the inputs contain a lot of
insoluble materials – due to their origin – there will need to be a filtration process in the end.
This filtration step is necessary if you want to avoid problems dealing with the clogging of
irrigation lines, in case you want to feed this into a regular irrigation system. If you want to hand
water directly, then you can avoid this filtration step.

Since the solution is not concentrated, the amounts to be weighed can be small for some of the
materials. For this reason, I advise you to prepare at least 100 gallons of solution, so that you
don’t require to weigh very small amounts of material. This will help keep the errors due to
measurements low. To make this preparation you will need the following materials:

 A tank that can hold 100 gallons

 A flow meter to measure water flow
 A scale that can weight +/-0.01g max 500g
 An air pump rated for at least 100 gallons of water
 Air stones to diffuse air

To prepare the solution (100 gallons), follow these steps:

1. Add 50 gallons of water using the flow meter. Ideally use RO water, but you can use tap water
as well if that is not possible.
2. Weigh and add all the ingredients per the table below.
3. Add another 50 gallons of water using the flow meter.
4. Place the air pump inside the solution and switch it on.
5. Maintain constant aeration for at least 15 days. Do not use it before this time has passed.
6. After 15 days have passed, filter the solution to use in irrigation lines or use directly to hand
water. Keep air flowing through the solution even after the 15 days have passed.
7. The solution might also become basic during this process, if necessary, you can bring the pH
of the solution down with citric acid before watering plants.

Bark compost 190

Solubor 0.65
 Copper sulfate 0.15

Corn Steep Liquor 330

Ferti-Nitro Plus 220

Iron Sulfate 4

Magnesium sulfate 190

Manganese Sulfate 1

Potassium Sulfate 136

Seabird Guano 265

Zinc Sulfate 0.10

Table of ingredients to weigh. Masses are in grams.

The reason for the long wait

Plants ideally require nitrate in order to grow, the above inputs do not contain nitrate in
appreciable amounts but mainly organic nitrogen sources. In this and this previous posts, you can
learn more about organic nitrogen and why it is not ideal to use this in an unprocessed manner in
a hydroponic crop. When you irrigate with organic nitrogen, most of the nitrogen will go unused
and significant time will need to pass in the root zone for it to become available. The organic
nitrogen decomposition process can also destabilize the pH of the root zone, making it harder for
plants to properly absorb nutrients. By carrying out this process outside of the root zone, we
make it easier on the plants, as we feed a pre-digested solution that is rich in available nutrients
and microbes. The Seabird Guano and Bark compost, both provide the microbe inoculations
necessary for the nitrogen decomposition process to take place. Oxygen, which we continuously
pump into the solution, is also key to this process. The CSL and the Ferti-Nitro Plus will provide
the organic nitrogen sources that will be decomposed.

This solution also contains a significant amount of amino acids. Although most of these amino
acids will be converted into more readily absorbable nitrate through the digestion process, a
small amount will be left undigested, which will lock onto the heavy metal ions. This will help
prevent precipitation issues and provide the plant with organically derived chelates.

Also note that no specific molybdenum input is included. This is because it is present as an
impurity in the corn steep liquor at a high enough concentration, so its explicit addition is not
required.

Conclusion

The above solution should fully replace a traditional hydroponic solution, using only
OMRI-approved materials. The final concentrations of nutrients should be spot on for the
healthy development of most small and large plants. The solution will also contain a lot of
microbes and bio-stimulants, which will also help plant growth. Of course, the final character of
the solution will depend on the temperature of the digestion, the amount of aeration present, and
the nature of the inputs used (as OMRI inputs have a significant amount of variability due to
their sourcing). It might take a few tries to adjust this process to your particular conditions. Note
that the above solution is intended to be used with soilless media that has not been amended, as it
should provide all nutrients required for plant growth.

MAKE ORGANIC HYDROPONIC FERTILIZER

How To Make Your Own Organic Hydroponic Fertilizer:
You can easily make hydroponic fertilizer, if you have the time and wherewithal to put in a bit of
effort. I's pretty simple to mix up your own basic fertilizer mix that will be well-suited for your
hydroponic fertilizer organic setup while meeting 'organic' standards.

Let's look at three different hydroponic fertilizer approaches that allow you to simply mix up
great base fertilizers for organic hydroponics without having to spend a few years getting your
degree in chemistry or spending thousands on a complicated chem-lab at home!

We came across these recommended hydroponic fertilizer DIY recipes as originally published by
Ken Sleight and edited by Lindsay Evans.

"Gift From The Sea" Recipe:

We really love this hydroponic fertilizer DIY idea at Humboldts Secret. As a base fertilizer, this
will work seamlessly in conjunction with Golden Tree as your nutrient additive. You'll be
creating a nutrient liquid that you can use in your hydroponics system:

1. Take 6oz of seaweed and wrap it in cheesecloth, tying off with twine.
2. Soak this "tea bag" in a bucket (5 gallons of water), leaving in the sun for 5 days.
3. Add 5 teaspoons of Epsom salt (1 teaspoon per gallon).
4. Choose between adding the entire five-gallon mix to your hydro reservoir or adding in one-
gallon increments.

"The Farmer's Friend" Recipe: Hydroponic Fertilizer Formula

This hydroponic fertilizer formula recipe was purportedly created by a traditional farmer who
eventually went the way of adopting hydroponics. He had already developed a successful
fertilizer mix for the traditional setting that he adapted for hydroponics. So again, using this as a
base fertilizer mix will play seamlessly into your adding Golden Tree as your nutrient additive
down the line.

1. In a 5 gallon bucket, mix together these ingredients: 4 pounds of seed meal, 1 pound of fine
ground, agricultural lime, 1 pound of gypsum, 2 pounds of dolomitic lime, 1 pound of bone
meal, 1 pound of kelp.
2. Fill your bucket with water, stirring evenly until you have a thin consistency mix.
3. Use the mix in a ratio of six ounces per 100 gallons of water. It's ideal for a large scale
system, but you can easily scale down, keeping the same ratios.
(Note: If you'd prefer to keep your mix in powdered form-much easier on the storage end of
things - you can always mix per application with 1/2 teaspoon for each 100 gallons of water.)
 "The Compost Tea" Recipe: Hydroponic Fertilizer Recipe

This hydroponic fertilizer recipe is ideal for those organic purists out there who are into
recycling everything. Most of the components, you'll be able to find around the home with the
exception of aquarium water. This one's also best suited for folks who have a yard or at least
access to a yard or garden space.

1. Build a compost heap or use a composting bin, situating in an isolated, secluded place
outdoors. (Think: Odor and fumes! )
2. Use equal amounts of green and brown matter (Green: grass cuttings, veggie scraps, green
leaves; Brown: straw, dirt, drying, yellowing or brown leaves, old paper or wood products,
shredded up newspaper, even dryer lint.)
3. Turn up your pile with a shovel every day for 2-3 weeks until you've got a nice, ripe
compost.
4. Two large shovelfuls of compost can be steeped in 5 gallons of water for 3 days. Distilled
water is okay, but aquarium water is recommended best (Careful: not the chemically treated
variety).
(Since the components of your hydroponic fertilizer DIY recipe can vary, you'll have to adopt a
"play it by ear/feel" method on application since the hydro fertilizer will not have perfect
chemical consistency from batch to batch. For starters, go with a recommended one gallon of
compost tea per 100 gallons of reservoir).

How can I make organic fertilizer from Kitchen waste for Hydroponics?
Making organic fertilizer from kitchen waste for hydroponics involves a few steps
to ensure that the nutrients are available and safe for your plants. Here’s a
detailed guide to help you create your own organic fertilizer:

Step 1: Gather Kitchen Waste

Collect suitable kitchen waste, such as:

- Fruit and vegetable scraps (peels, cores, and overripe produce)
- Coffee grounds
- Eggshells
- Tea bags (make sure they’re compostable)
- Grass clippings (if you have them)

Step 2: Prepare the Waste

 Chop the Waste: Cut the scraps into smaller pieces to speed up
decomposition.
 Avoid Certain Items: Do not use meat, dairy, or oils, as they can
attract pests and create odors.
Step 3: Composting

You can compost your kitchen waste to create a nutrient-rich organic fertilizer.
Hot Composting Method

1. Layering: Alternate layers of green waste (nitrogen-rich, like vegetable

scraps) and brown waste (carbon-rich, like dried leaves or cardboard).
2. Aeration: Turn the compost every few weeks to aerate it and speed up
decomposition.
3. Moisture: Keep the compost moist but not soggy. Aim for a moisture
level similar to a damp sponge.
4. Temperature: Monitor the temperature. A hot compost pile should
reach 130°F to 160°F (54°C to 71°C) to kill pathogens and weed seeds.
Vermicomposting

Alternatively, you can use worms to break down the kitchen waste:
1. Set Up a Worm Bin: Use a plastic or wooden bin with holes for aeration.
2. Add Bedding: Use shredded newspaper, cardboard, or coconut coir as
bedding.
3. Introduce Worms: Red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) are ideal for composting.
4. Feed the Worms: Add kitchen scraps and keep the bin moist.

Step 4: Extracting Nutrients

Once your compost is ready (usually in a few weeks to a few months), you can
extract the nutrients:

1. Compost Tea:
- Ingredients: Take mature compost.
- Brewing: Mix 1 part compost with 5 parts water in a bucket. Let it
steep for 24-48 hours, stirring occasionally.
- Strain: After steeping, strain the liquid through a fine mesh or cloth.
- Application: Dilute the compost tea with water (1:1 ratio) and use it
to fertilize your hydroponic system.
2. Direct Use: You can also mix well-aged compost directly into your
hydroponic growing medium if you are using a medium that allows for
it, like rock wool or coco coir.
Step 5: Monitoring and Adjusting

 Nutrient Levels: Test the nutrient levels in your hydroponic system

regularly. Adjust the concentration of your compost tea as needed
based on your plants' requirements.
 pH Levels: Ensure that the pH of your nutrient solution is appropriate
for the plants you are growing (typically between 5.5 to 6.5 for most
hydroponics).
Conclusion

By following these steps, you can create a sustainable source of organic

fertilizer from kitchen waste for your hydroponics system, promoting healthy
plant growth while reducing waste. Remember to monitor your plants and adjust
your nutrient solution as needed.
The compost tea can be diluted by 1:10 ratio and used in hydroponics, a simple
home system can be made easily add follows

Step-by-Step Guide to Compost Chicken Manure

Step 1: Gather the Right Materials

To start your composting project, you’ll need:

 Chicken manure (with or without bedding)

 Carbon-rich materials: Dry leaves, straw, wood chips, cardboard,
sawdust
 A compost bin or designated pile space
 Water and a compost thermometer (optional but helpful)
Tip: Bedding materials like straw or sawdust, often found mixed with chicken
manure, count as carbon-rich materials, helping you maintain the right balance.

Step 2: Build Your Compost Pile

A well-layered compost pile is key to success. Follow these steps to set it up:

1. Create a base layer of carbon-rich material like straw or wood

chips for good drainage and airflow.
2. Add a layer of chicken manure (approximately 4–6 inches thick).
3. Alternate layers of manure and carbon-rich material until the pile is
about 3–4 feet high.
4. Water each layer lightly as you build. The pile should be moist but
not soggy.
Example Compost Layering:

 1st layer: Dry leaves or straw (6 inches)

 2nd layer: Chicken manure (4 inches)
 3rd layer: Shredded newspaper or cardboard (6 inches)
 Repeat until the pile reaches your desired size.
Step 3: Monitor and Turn the Pile

To ensure your compost breaks down efficiently, you’ll need to manage

moisture, temperature, and oxygen levels.

Turning the Pile

 Turn the compost every 7–10 days with a garden fork or compost
turner.
 Ensure the pile is well-aerated to prevent anaerobic conditions, which
cause foul odors.
Moisture Control
  Your compost should feel like a damp sponge. Too dry? Add water
while turning. Too wet? Add more carbon-rich materials like straw or
shredded paper.
Temperature Monitoring

 Optimal composting temperature: 135–160°F (57–71°C)

 High temperatures kill pathogens and weed seeds, turning raw manure
into safe compost.
Tip: Use a compost thermometer to track progress and adjust conditions as
needed.

Step 4: Wait for Maturation

The composting process can take anywhere from 2 to 6 months, depending on

how often you turn the pile and maintain its balance. You’ll know your chicken
manure compost is ready when:

 It’s dark and crumbly, like rich soil.

 It has a pleasant, earthy smell.
 No recognizable bits of manure or bedding remain.