Star Depot

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 Intermediate
Finished Size: 72” x 72”
Finished Blocks: 18”

Quilt designed and made by Elaine Theriault. Fabric: Dublin by Deborah Edwards for Northcott.

materials Elaine Theriault

Fabric yardage assumes 40” usable Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
width of fabric (WOF) unless other- crazyquilteronabike.blogspot.com
wise noted.

White Tonal
2¼ yards for blocks and border 1
Gray Tonal
2⅝ yards for blocks and border 2
Blue Tonal
2⅜ yards for blocks, border 2,
and binding
Backing 4⅞ yards
Batting 80” x 80”

Pattern provided courtesy of APQS & Quilting Daily. Find more free patterns at quiltingdaily.com/free-patterns or apqs.com/free-patterns. | 2
 Unit 1 Unit 2
cutting Three stars combine to
make this galactic quilt.
Sew the patches and unitsMake
Make 12
together
8
as shown to make a block X. Make
3 block X’s total.

1
Patches are lettered in order of
use. Measurements include ¼˝
About This Quilt
seam allowances. Border strips will
Inspired by actual painted barn
be pieced and cut to exact length quilts photographed on the prairies E
needed. of Saskatchewan, Elaine combined F
three blocks to make this graphic
= cut in half once diagonally quilt.

2
= cut in half twice diagonally
Making the Units and E

White Tonal
Blocks
7 strips 3½” x WOF for border 1 Refer to “Quarter-Square
4 squares 10¼” cut to make Triangles” in Basic Lessons. Pair
16 triangles (F) white tonal A’s and gray tonal A’s to
4 squares 7⅝” (B) make 12 unit 1’s total.
6 squares 7¼” (A)
12 squares 6½” (E) Block X
Gray Tonal Make 3
4 squares 10¼” cut to make Unit 1 Unit 2 Unit 3 Flying Geese
16 triangles (F) Make 12 Make 8 Join the
Makepatches
48 together as shown
Make 80
4 squares 7⅝” (B) to make block Y. Make 4 block Y’s
26 squares 7¼” (A) Unit 1 Unit 2total. Unit 3 Flying Geese
Make 12 Make 8 E Make 48 Make 80
7 squares 6½” (E)
24 squares 3⅛” (C) H
G
8 squares 2¾” (H) Refer to E“Triangle-Squares” in Basic
Blue Tonal Lessons. Pair white tonal B’s and F
8 strips 2½” x WOF for binding gray tonal B’s to Emake 8 unit 2’s G
8 squares 9⅞” cut to make total. F
F
16 triangles (G)
E
80 squares 3⅞” (D)
24 squares 3⅛” (C) F
E

Unit 1 Unit 2 Unit 3 Flying Geese

Make 12 Make 8 Make 48 Make 80
In a similar manner, use blue
Block X Block Y
tonal C's and gray C’s to make
Make 3 Make 4
Unit 1 Unit 2 unitUnit
3. Make
3 48 unit 3’s total.
Flying Geese H
3½˝ x 54½˝

Make 12 Make 8 Make 48 Block

Make 80 X G the patches and units
Sew together
Block Y
E
Make 3 F as shown to make a blockMake
Z. Make
4
2 block Z’s total.
E
Unit 1 Unit 2 Unit 3 Flying Geese
F
Make 12 Make 8 Make 48 Make 80 H
E G
E E
Refer 3½˝ x 60½˝
F to “Fast Flying Geese” in Basic
Lessons. Use gray A’s and blue D’s to
make 80FFlying Geese as shown. H 3½˝ x 60½˝
G
E
E
F

Unit 1 Unit 2 F
Unit 3 Block XFlying Geese Block Y
Make 12 Make 8 E Make 48Make 3 Make 80 Make 4

Block X Block Y H Block Z

E G
E Make 3 Make 4 Make 2
3½˝ x 54½˝

F
3½˝ x 60½˝
Pattern provided courtesy of APQS & Quilting Daily. Find more free patterns at quiltingdaily.com/free-patterns or apqs.com/free-patterns. | 3
Block X F Block Y Block Z
54½˝

E Make 3 Make 4 Make 2

E
 H
G
E
F

3 Assembling the Quilt

Center
E
Refer to the Assembly Diagram. Sew
4 Adding
F the Borders
Refer to “Borders” in Basic
Lessons. Join white border 1 strips
Join 20 Flying Geese to make
one side of pieced border 2. Make
4 total. Matching centers and ends,
3 blocks together as shown to make and cut to sizes shown in Assembly sew pieced border 2 side strips to
a row. Make 3 rows. Join rows. Diagram. Matching centers and quilt. Join gray E’s to either end of
ends, sew border 1 side strips to 2 remaining pieced border 2’s. Sew
quilt; repeat to add top and bottom top/bottom border 2’s to quilt.
strips.

Block X Block Y Block Z

Make 3 Make 4 Make 2

3½˝ x 60½˝
3½˝ x 54½˝

Assembly

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5 Quilting and Finishing
Layer and baste together the
backing, batting, and quilt top.
Finishing Touch
Refer to the quilting placement dia- Elaine chose to do custom quilting on
gram. Quilt straight lines as shown her quilt, using straight lines in the center
of the quilt and curves in the outside
in the center of the quilt, Grecian
border. A fast allover pattern will make
keys in the white border, and styl-
finishing the quilt a breeze. The Garden
ized flowers in the Flying Geese. Swirl Quilting motif adds a lot of motion
Bind the quilt. to the angular lines of this quilt design.

Go to QuiltingDaily.com/finishing-
touch to download the Garden Swirl
Quilting motif.

Quilting Placement

Alternate Quilting Placement Diagram

Garden Swirl Quilting

Pattern provided courtesy of APQS & Quilting Daily. Find more free patterns at quiltingdaily.com/free-patterns or apqs.com/free-patterns. | 5
 basic lessons The way you mark, cut and sew varies significantly from machine
piecing to hand piecing, so please refer to the appropriate section
before starting a project.

preparing your fabric

We recommend that you pre-wash your fabrics. A shrinkage factor is
included in our yardage computations.

About our Patterns

We recommend that you read all of the instructions machine piecing
before starting a project and that you cut and sew one It is important to cut accurately and to sew exact 1⁄4" seams.
block before cutting all of your fabric. Templates
Trace the patterns on template plastic and cut out accurately.
Using a rotary cutter, mat and an
acrylic ruler, cut the shape to the size Planning B
B
Measure, mark and cut the binding and border
indicated in the cutting list. strips before cutting patches from the same fabric. A
Pressing tabs indicate the ­direction Cut larger patches before smaller ones. For best
use of the fabric, arrange patches with cutting lines B B
to press the seam allowances. close or touching.
Our patterns list finished block sizes, which are One or more straight sides of the patch should
typically ½" smaller than unfinished block sizes be- follow the lengthwise (parallel to the selvages) or crosswise
B
(perpendicular to the selvages) grain of fabric, especially B
cause they do not include seam allowances. the sides that will be on the outside edges of the quilt A
block. We indicate lengthwise or crosswise grain with an
arrow on the p­ attern piece. B
B
Cut
Basic Quilting Supplies Cutting
To find the grainline of your fabric for rotary cut-
• Rotary cutter and mat • Darning foot ting, hold the fabric with selvages parallel in front
• Acrylic ruler: Many • Pins of you. Keeping the selvages together, slide the
1
2

shapes and sizes are • Ironing board & iron edge closest to you to one side or the other until 3

the fabric hangs straight, without wrinkles or folds.

4

available; a good one to • Marking pencils/ Then lay the fabric down on your cutting mat and
5
1 2 3 4 5

start with is 6"x 24" with markers/etc. cut perpendicular to the fold line. Use this cut edge Cut
¼" and 1 ⁄8" markings • Needles as your straight-of-grain line.
Many patches can be cut from strips of fabric by
• Scissors: A separate pair • Thimble rotary cutting. First, cut a strip of fabric the width
1

for paper and fabric • Safety pins

2
needed. Then, cross-cut strips into patches. 3

• Sewing machine • Template plastic To cut from a template, place the template face
4
5

down on the wrong side of the fabric and trace with a

1 2 3 4 5

• ¼" foot • Thread sharp pencil. Reverse (r) templates should be placed
• Walking foot face up on the wrong side of the fabric before tracing.
Piecing
Align the cut edges of fabric with the edge of the
presser foot if it is 1⁄4" wide. If not, place mask­ing
tape on the throat plate of your ma­chine 1⁄4" away
from the needle to guide you. Sew all the way to the
cut edge.

hand piecing
Templates and Cutting Patches
trimming template Mark the seam lines rather than cutting lines when hand piecing. Cut
out patches approximately 1⁄4" beyond the marked seam lines.
To ensure accurate piecing of triangular To make a template for hand piecing, trace the seam (dashed) line of a
patches, you may want to trim the points on full-size template pattern on template plastic. To convert rotary cutting
patches with 45˚ angles. Make a template from diagrams to hand-piecing templates, first draw the shape to scale, then
the full-size trimming template pattern shown here. subtract 1⁄4" from every side.
Align the edges of the trimming template with the Trace the full-size templates on
patch and trim each point. You may only need to the wrong side of your fabric
align one of the trimmed sides with the adjacent using a sharp pencil, leaving at
patch before sewing. Trimming least 1⁄2" between each traced
Template line.
Piecing
Put patches right sides together matching seam lines. Sew the seam
through the marked lines with a short running stitch using a single thread.
Begin and end stitching at the
seam line (not the edge of the
Trimming fabric) with 2 or 3 backstitches
to secure the seam.
Template
Running Stitch Backstitch
For help using this
template for patches xx
and xx, see “Basic Lessons”.
foundation piecing 2 1
Bias Strips
Make paper copies of each foundation. Sew 3 Bias strips are cut at a 45˚ angle to the 45º
patches in the numerical order p­ rinted on the 4
grain of the fabric. They are stretchy and
pattern. Center fabric under #1, extending beyond therefore ideal for creating curved applique
the seam allowances, wrong side of the fabric to the stems.
unprinted side of the paper and pin in place from 2 Make your first cut by aligning a 45˚
3 guideline on your acrylic ruler with the
the paper side. ¼
Turn fabric side up. Using a patch of fabric suf- 4 cut edge or selvage of your fabric. Use this
ficient to cover #2 and its seam allowances, position new bias edge to cut strips the required
the #2 patch right sides together on patch #1 as width.
shown so that the fabric’s edge extends at least 1⁄4" 2 1 Prepare bias strips for applique by
into the #2 area. Pin in place. Set a very short stitch 3 folding in half lengthwise, wrong sides
length on your sewing machine (18–20 stitches 4 together. Stitch 1⁄4" from the raw edges.
per inch or 1.5 mm). Turn the assembly paper side Offset the seam allow­ance; press toward the center. Trim ­the seam allow­ance
up. Stitch through the paper and the fabric layers to 1⁄8".
along the printed seam line, beginning and ending
1⁄4" beyond the ends of the line.

Turn assembly to the fabric side. Trim the seam

allowances to approximately 1⁄4". Press the fabric pressing
3
open to cover #2 and seam allowances. Press all seam allowances to one side, usually toward the darker fabric; fol-
Repeat this process to complete the blocks or 4 low the pressing tabs presented with each pattern. When joining blocks and/
sections, allowing at least 1⁄4" beyond the edge of or rows, seam allowances are pressed to allow nesting of seams which reduces
the paper. bulk in the quilt top.
Use a rotary cutter and ruler to trim 1⁄4" outside the seam line of the
foundation, creating a seam allowance. If necessary, join sections by match-
ing points and sewing with 1⁄4" seam. Once all the seams around a foundation
section have been sewn, remove the paper ­foundations. techniques
Curved Piecing ve ve
ca ca

n
Cut patches using a small-bladed rotary cutterexto maneu-

Co

n
v x
applique ve

Co
ver curves.

n
Co

n
With right sides together, pin the convex patch to the

Co
No turn-under allowances are given on applique patterns.
inside, or concave, curve of the second patch at the middle,
Using a light table if needed, position background fabric over the applique
the ends and a few places in between. Sew with the concave
placement diagram. Lightly mark the major shapes with p­ encil or chalk.
patch on the top, stopping frequently with the needle down to
Optionally, ­finger crease the fabric in half lengthwise, crosswise and diago-
adjust the fabric to lay flat under the needle and presser foot.
nally to form guidelines for p­ lacement of the patches.
After stitching, press the seam allowance toward the convex
Use a stabilizer on the back to support machine stitching that is dense
piece.
(like satin stitching) and to keep the fabric from tunneling. Choose a stabi-
lizer that matches the weight of the fabric. After the applique is complete, Fast Flying Geese*
gently remove the stabilizer. Align 2 small squares on opposite corners of
Turned-Edge Applique the large square, right sides together. Draw a
diagonal line as shown and then stitch ¼" out
It is helpful to have as many bias edges as possible on the perimeter of
from both sides of the line. Cut apart on the
your applique patches. Trace and cut on the seam line of the pattern to
marked line.
make a template. Place the template face up on the right side of the fabric
With the small squares on top, open out
(face down on the right side for a reverse patch) and
the small squares and press the unit. On the
lightly draw around it. Cut out each patch about 3 ⁄16"
remaining corner of each of these units, align
outside the marked line.
a small square. Draw a line from corner to
On inward curves, clip the 3 ⁄16" allowances almost to
corner and sew ¼" out on both sides of the
the marked seam line. Turn under the ­allowance and fin-
line. Cut on the marked lines, open the small
ger press.
squares and press.
Pin or baste applique patches on the background
Each set of 1 large square and 4 small
fabric. To applique by hand, use a blind stitch and a
squares makes 4 Flying Geese.
thread color that matches the patch. To applique by
machine, use a small zigzag or blind hem stitch and Quarter-Square Triangles*
a matching or invisible thread. With right sides together and the lighter fabric on
If the background fabric shows through the appliqued patch, carefully top, pair one square of each color that makes the unit.
cut away the background fabric to within 3 ⁄16" of the applique patch or use 2 On the lighter patch, draw a diagonal line from corner
layers of applique fabric. to corner.
Fusible Applique Stitch ¼" out from both sides of the line. Cut apart
on the marked line to make 2 triangle-squares. With the
Raw-edge applique using paper-backed fusible web is a fast and easy way
darker fabric up, open out the top patch and press the
to applique. Because fused patches are drawn on the paper side of the web
unit.
and then flipped when ironed on the fabric, you may need to reverse the ap-
Cut both triangle-squares in half diagonally as shown.
plique patterns (see specific pattern for instructions and whether reversing
Referring to the diagram, join the appropriate halves to
the presented patterns is necessary). Add 3⁄16" underlap allowance to those
make 2 units.
edges that lie under another.
Trace the pattern pieces, also drawing the needed underlap allowances,
on the paper side of a fusible web leaving at least 1⁄2" between all the pieces.
Cut about 3⁄16" outside each drawn line.
To eliminate stiffness, try this variation for patches larger than 1": Cut
out the center of the fusible web 1⁄4" inside the drawn line, making a ring of
fusible web.
Following the manufacturer’s directions, iron the web, paper side up, to
the wrong side of the fabric. Cut out the shape exactly on the drawn line.
Carefully pull away the paper backing. Fuse the patches to the background
where marked.
To finish the raw edges, satin stitch with stabilizer, or blanket stitch, *These units will finish at the correct size for each pattern. No trimming
zigzag or blind hem stitch using colored or invisible thread. is needed.
Set-in Seams Mitered borders are added by sewing border strips to all
A set‑in patch is inserted in an angle formed by two other patches. First, sides of the quilt center and then mitering each corner.
mark the seam lines on all three patches so you’ll know exactly where When joining each border strip to the quilt, begin and end
to stitch. Align the edges of two patches and pin along the marked lines. stitches 1⁄4" from the quilt top corners and backstitch. Re-
Sew the seam, stopping the stitches at the end of the marked seam line; ferring to the diagrams, fold the quilt right sides together
backstitch. Pivot the set‑in patch so the adjacent edge aligns with the edge diagonally at one corner. Flip the seam allow­ance toward
of the third patch. Matching seams, pin in place. Starting exactly where the the quilt top, match seam lines and pin through both
previous seam ended, sew layers about 3" from the corner. Place a ruler along the
two stitches, then backstitch, folded edge of the quilt top, intersecting the final stitch in
taking care not to stitch into the border seam and extending through the border strip.
seam allowance. Stitch to t­ he Draw a line from the stitch to the outer edge of the border. Pin
outer edge. together along the pencil line. Sew along the line to the edge
of the border; backstitch. Trim seam allowances to 1⁄4"; press
open. Repeat for all corners.
Stitch-and-Flip *
Align a patch (* in this example) on a corner of a unit or marking
second patch right sides together. Mark a diagonal line on
Trace the quilting motif on tracing paper. Place tracing paper under the
the * patch from corner to corner and sew on the marked
quilt top with a light source behind. Lightly mark the design on the quilt top
line. Trim the seam allowance to ¼" as shown. Flip the
with a hard lead pencil or a marker of your choice. Test any marking product
* patch open and press.
for removability before using it on your quilt.
Straight lines may be “marked” as you quilt by using masking tape that is
pulled away after quilting along its edge.
Triangle-Squares*
With right sides together and the lighter fabric on top,
pair one square of each color that makes the unit. On the
lighter patch, draw a diagonal line from corner to corner. backing and basting
Stitch ¼" out from both sides of the line. Make the quilt backing 4"–8" larger than the quilt top. Remove the sel-
Cut apart on the marked line. vages to avoid puckers. Usually 2 or 3 lengths must be sewn together; press
With the darker fabric up, open out the top patch and the seam allowances open. Place the backing wrong side up on a flat surface,
press the unit. stretch slightly and tape or pin in place. Smooth the batting over the back-
A pair of squares will yield 2 units. ing. Center quilt top right side up on top of the batting. Pin the ­layers as
*These units will finish at the correct size for each necessary to secure them while basting.
pattern. No trimming is needed. Basting for Machine Quilting
Machine-quilted tops can be basted with rustproof
safety pins. Begin at the ­center and place pins 3" to 4"
Beading apart, avoiding lines to be quilted.
Use a beading thread to secure beads to your work. It’s advisable to make Basting for Hand Quilting
a knot after every bead or every few beads. Because bugle beads can be sharp
Beginning in the center of the quilt, baste horizontal
and sometimes cut the thread, it helps to buffer them with a round bead at
and ­vertical lines 4" to 6" apart.
each end.

Start Start quilting

Quilt in the ditch refers to quilting right next to
Single Bead Bugle Bead the seam line on the side without seam allowances.
Yo-yos Outline quilting refers to quilting 1⁄4" from the seam
line. Echo quilting refers to quilting one or more lines
Using the circle diameter called for in the pattern (ap- of stitching in uniform distances away from a patch.
proximately twice the finished yo-yo size plus ½"), make a
template. On the wrong side of the fabric, use the template Machine Quilting
to draw a circle. Cut out the circle on the marked line. Before machine quilting, bring the bobbin thread to the top of the quilt so
Turn under a scant ¼" to the wrong side of the fabric. it doesn’t get caught as you quilt: lower the presser foot, hold the top thread
Sew a short basting stitch around the circle, leaving a knot and take one stitch down and up, lift the presser foot to release the thread
and thread tail at the beginning of the circle. tension and tug on the top thread to draw a loop of the bobbin thread to the
Pull on the threads to gather the fabric, making sure the top of the quilt. Pull the bobbin thread to the top. Lower the needle into
right side of the fabric is on the outside of the yo-yo. Take a the same hole created by the initial stitch, lower your presser foot, and start
few stitches to secure the gathering stitches and tie off. Clip quilting. A walking foot is used for straight-line or ditch quilting. To free-
the threads close to the knot. motion quilt, drop (or cover) your feed dogs and use a darning foot. Start
and end your quilting lines with 1⁄4" of very short stitches to secure.
Hand Quilting
borders Hand quilting is done in a short running stitch with a single strand of
Squared borders are added first to the sides of the quilt thread that goes through all three layers.
center, then to the top and bottom. Lay the quilt top flat on Use a short needle (8 or 9 between) with about 18" of thread. Make a small
a large table or the floor. Lay both border #1 side strips down knot in the thread, and take a long first stitch (about 1") through the top and
the vertical center of the quilt top and smooth carefully into batting only, coming up where the quilting will begin. Tug
place. Slip a small cutting mat under the quilt top (you’ll need on the thread to pull the knotted end between the layers.
to do this at the top and the bottom) and use a rotary cutter Take short, even stitches that are the same size on the top
and ruler to trim the border strips to the same length as the quilt top. Match- and back of the quilt. Push the ­needle with a thimble on
ing centers and ends, sew the border side strips to the quilt. Gently press the your middle finger; guide the fabric in front of the needle
seam allowances away from the quilt center. For the top and bottom borders, with the thumb of one hand above the quilt and with the
repeat this process along the horizontal center of the quilt, including the middle finger of your other hand under the quilt.
newly added borders. Repeat for any remaining borders. To end a line of quilting, make a small knot in the thread close to the
quilt top, push the needle through the top and batting only and bring it to
the surface about 1" away; tug the thread until the knot pulls through the
quilt top, burying the knot in the batting. Clip the thread close to the surface
of the quilt.
binding facing
Baste around the quilt 3⁄16" from the edges. Trim the bat- Trim the batting and backing even with the edges of the quilt top.
ting and backing 1⁄4" beyond the edge of the quilt top.
Cut the facing strips 2½" wide and join end to end as you would binding.
To prepare the binding strips, place the ends of 2 binding ¼”
strips perpendicular to each other, right sides together. For the top and bottom strips, measure across the quilt width. Cut 2
Stitch diagonally and trim to 1⁄4". In this way, join all the strips to this measurement minus ¼". On both strips, fold one long edge un-
strips and press the seam ­allowances open. der ¼" and¼”press. On the right side of the quilt top, place one strip right side
Cut the beginning of the binding strip ¼”
¼” down at each end of the quilt, matching
at a 45˚ angle. Fold the binding strip the ends of the strips to the sides of the
in half along the length, wrong sides ¼” quilt as shown.
¼”
Pin.
together, and press. Starting in the middle of a side and leaving a 6" tail of
Sew both of the strips to the quilt with
binding loose, align the raw edges of the binding with the edge of the quilt
¼" seam allowance, beginning at one
top. Begin sewing the binding to the quilt using a 1⁄4" seam allowance. Stop
1 ⁄ 4" from the first corner; backstitch. Remove the needle from the quilt and short end and turning the corner with
one diagonal stitch as shown. Turn the
cut the threads. ¼” second corner in the same way and finish
Fold the binding up, then back down even
sewing.
with edge of the quilt. Begin stitching 1⁄4" from
the binding fold, backstitch to secure ¼” and con- Lay the side facing strips right sides
tinue sewing. Repeat at all corners. down on the quilt front sides. Trim the
When nearing the starting point, leave at least strips so the ends extend 3 ⁄4" past the
12" of the quilt edge unbound and folded edge of the top and bottom strips. ¾”
a 10" to 12" binding tail. Smooth Fold one long edge under ¼" on both
the beginning tail over the ending strips and press. Sew the side facing
tail. Following the cut edge of the strips to the quilt with a ¼" seam allow-
beginning tail, draw a line on the ance. Carefully trim the bulk from each
ending tail at a 45˚ angle. To add corner.
seam allowance, draw a cutting
To make the facing lie flat, sew a line ½”
line 1⁄2" out from the first line;
of sharpstitching: first, fold the side fac-
make sure it guides you to cut
ing strip out as shown. Beginning about
the binding tail 1⁄2" longer than
2½" from the corner, sew through all the
the first line. Cut on this second
seam allowances and the facing very close
line.
to the seam, ending 2½" from the next
To join the ends, place them right sides together. Offset
corner. Repeat for all the sides. Turn the
the points so the strips match 1⁄4" in from the edge and sew.
facing to the back of the quilt and gently push out the corners. Press the fac-
Press the seam allowances open. Press the section of bind-
ing flat. Sew the facing to the quilt back by hand with a blind stitch.
ing in half and then finish sewing it
to the quilt. Trim away excess back-
ing and batting in the corners only
to eliminate bulk. sleeve for hanging
Fold the binding to the back of Sleeve edges can be caught in the seam when you sew the binding to the
the quilt, enclosing the extra batting and backing. Blind- quilt. Cut and join enough 9"-wide strips of fabric to equal the width of the
stitch the binding fold to the backing, just covering the quilt. Hem the short ends of the sleeve by folding under ½", pressing, then
previous line of stitching. folding and pressing once more; topstitch close to the edge of the hem. Fold
Bias Binding the sleeve in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, match-
Bias binding strips are cut at a 45° angle to the grain of the fabric. They ing raw edges. Center the sleeve on the back and top of the
are stretchy and therefore ideal for binding curved edges. quilt and baste. Sew the binding to the quilt. Once the bind-
Make your first cut by aligning a ing has been sewn, smooth the sleeve against the backing
45° guideline on your acrylic ruler and blindstitch along the bottom and along the ends of the
with the cut edge or selvage of your sleeve, catching some of the batting in the stitches.
45º
fabric. Use this new bias edge to cut
21⁄4" strips for binding. Refer to
“Binding” to finish the binding.

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