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Dew Scarf

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100% found this document useful (2 votes)
3K views6 pages

Dew Scarf

Uploaded by

Mary
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

Knitting Pattern

Dew Scarf
Difficulty: Intermediate

Designed by Irene Lin

2025, Irene Lin, All rights reserved

The pattern is for personal use only, Reselling and commercial use are not allowed.

1
Construction:

The Dew Scarf is knit sideways, worked from tip to tip with selvage edge. It’s made with lace
weight mohair and knitted with larger needles to create an airy lace texture. When wearing it, I
used a ring or necklace to secure the scarf. Easy styling tips: https://youtu.be/BwJbKUKfqwE

Gauge:

14 sts and 19 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4” in pattern.

Finished measurements:

The size of the finished piece depends on how many rows you work in each section. If you’d
like a wider piece, add more rows to Section 1. If you’d prefer it longer, simply work more rows
in Section 2.

Here are the measurements from my samples for reference:

Caramel triangle version: Length: 108 cm/42.5”; Width: 35 cm/13.75”

Light blue triangle version: Length: 85 cm/33.5”; Width: 21 cm/8.25”

Light blue rectangular version: Length: 106 cm/41.75”; Width: 8 cm/3.25”

Yarns:

Majo Garn, Peal Mohair. Color way: Almond/Mist. 70% Mohair, 30% Silk, 23g=210m/229yds.

The caramel version used one ball of yarn, the light blue versions each used about half a ball
of yarn. According to the pattern, you can repeat the pattern a few more times to make it
larger, but please note that this will require more yarn. On the other hand, if you prefer a
shorter length, simply reduce the number of repeats.

2
Needles:

6 mm (US 10), 60 ~100 cm circular needle.

Abbreviations:

approx. approximate

BO Bind o

CO Cast on

k Knit

k2tog Knit 2 stitches together

k3tog Knit 3 stitches together

p Purl

p2tog Purl 2 stitches together

ptbl Purl 1 stitch through the back loop

rep Repeat

RS Right side

st(s) Stitch(es)

ssk Slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, return these 2 stitches to left hand needle, then
knit them together through the back loop.

sl1-wyif Slip 1 stitch as if to purl and with yarn in front

TS Total stitches

WS Wrong side

yo Yarn over

[ ] Repeat stitches within brackets

K2tog-yo-k2tog:

K2tog keep on the needle, yo, k2tog then drop from the needle. (Increases from 2 to 3 sts)

Video support: https://youtu.be/hqER741gvSk?si=c78PY8DikoaTSigr

Note: The “k2tog-yo-k2tog” stitch increases two stitches to three, and with the preceding yo,
there are four stitches in total. In the following row, these four stitches are reduced to two by
working two p2tog stitches. Due to the unique structure of the k2tog-yo-k2tog stitch, the
increased stitch count will decrease back to the original count in the next row. Therefore, I
suggest counting the TS in the even-number rows.

3
f
Tips: While knitting, please keep the edge sts (the first and last 3 sts) loose and relaxed and
avoid working them too tightly. This will help the shape set more easily during blocking.

Instructions

Section 1- One stitch is increased for every two rows worked

With 6 mm (US 10) needle, long tail cast on 5 sts.

Next Row (WS): sl1-wyif, k1, p1, k1, sl1-wyif.

Row 1 (RS): k1, sl1-wyif, k1, yo, sl1-wyif, k1.

Row 2 (WS): sl1-wyif, k1, ptbl, p1, k1, sl1-wyif. TS: 6

Row 3 (RS): k1, sl1-wyif, k1, yo, k1, sl1-wyif, k1.

Row 4 (WS): sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif, p1, sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif. TS: 7

Row 5 (RS): k1, sl1-wyif, k2, yo, k1, sl1-wyif, k1.

Row 6 (WS): sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif, p2, sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif. TS: 8

Row 7 (RS): k1, sl1-wyif, k3, yo, k1, sl1-wyif, k1.

Row 8 (WS): sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif, p3, sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif. TS: 9

Row 9 (RS): k1, sl1-wyif, k1, yo, k2tog-yo-k2tog, k1, yo, k1, sl1-wyif, k1.

Row 10 (WS): sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif, p2, p2tog, p2tog, sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif. TS: 10

Row 11 (RS): k1, sl1-wyif, k2, yo, k2tog-yo-k2tog, k1, yo, k1, sl1-wyif, k1.

Row 12 (WS): sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif, p2, p2tog, p2tog, p1, sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif. TS: 11

Row 13 (RS): k1, sl1-wyif, k1, [yo, k2tog-yo-k2tog] rep to last 4 sts, k1, yo, k1, sl1-wyif,
k1.
Row 14 (WS): sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif, p2, [p2tog] rep to last 3 sts, sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif.
TS: 12
Row 15 (RS): k1, sl1-wyif, k2, [yo, k2tog-yo-k2tog] rep to last 4 sts, k1, yo, k1, sl1-wyif,
k1.
Row 16 (WS): sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif, p2, [p2tog] rep to last 4 sts, p1, sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif.
TS: 13

Rep Rows 13~16, until your desired length.

Here are the row counts from my samples for reference:

Caramel triangle version: repeated 20 more times (up to Row 96) TS: 53

Light blue triangle version: repeated 14 more times (up to Row 72) TS: 41

4
Light blue rectangular version: repeated 3 more times (up to Row 28) TS: 19

Section 2-The stitch count remains the same

Row 1 (RS): k1, sl1-wyif, k1, [yo, k2tog-yo-k2tog] rep to last 4 sts, k2, sl1-wyif, k1.

Row 2 (WS): sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif, p1, [p2tog] rep to last 3 sts, sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif.

Row 3 (RS): k1, sl1-wyif, k2, [yo, k2tog-yo-k2tog] rep to last 3 sts, k1, sl1-wyif, k1.

Row 4 (WS): sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif, [p2tog] rep to last 4 sts, p1, sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif.

Rep Rows 1~4, until your desired length.

Here are the row counts from my samples for reference:

Caramel and light blue triangle version: repeated 2 more times (up to Row 12)

Light blue rectangular version: repeated 27 more times (up to Row 112)

Section 3- One stitch is decreased for every two rows worked

Row 1 (RS): k1, sl1-wyif, k1, [yo, k2tog-yo-k2tog] rep to last 6 sts, k2tog, yo, k2tog, sl1-
wyif, k1.
Row 2 (WS): sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif, p2, [p2tog] rep to last 3 sts, sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif.

Row 3 (RS): k1, sl1-wyif, k2, [yo, k2tog-yo-k2tog] rep to last 6 sts, k2tog, yo, k2tog, sl1-
wyif, k1.
Row 4 (WS): sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif, p2, [p2tog] rep to last 4 sts, p1, sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif.

Rep Rows 1~4, until there are 11 stitches remaining on the needle.

The last step of finishing

Row 1 (RS): k1, sl1-wyif, k1, yo, k2tog-yo-k2tog, k2tog, yo, k2tog, sl1-wyif, k1.

Row 2 (WS): sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif, p2, p2tog, p2tog, sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif. TS: 10

Row 3 (RS): k1, sl1-wyif, k2, k2tog, yo, k2tog, sl1-wyif, k1.

Row 4 (WS): sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif, p3, sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif. TS: 9

Row 5 (RS): k1, sl1-wyif, k1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, sl1-wyif, k1.

Row 6 (WS): sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif, p2, sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif. TS: 8

5
Row 7 (RS): k1, sl1-wyif, k1, k2tog, k1, sl1-wyif, k1.

Row 8 (WS): sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif, p1, sl1-wyif, k1, sl1-wyif. TS: 7

Row 9 (RS): k1, sl1-wyif, k1, k2tog, sl1-wyif, k1.

Row 10 (WS): sl1-wyif, k1, p2, k1, sl1-wyif. TS: 6

Row 11 (RS): k1, sl1-wyif, k2tog, sl1-wyif, k1.

Row 12 (WS): sl1-wyif, k1, p1, k1, sl1-wyif. TS: 5

Next Row (RS): ssk, k3tog, pass the first st over the second st, cut the working yarn, then
thread the tail through the remaining st and pull to secure.

Finishing

Weave in ends and wet block to measurements.

When blocking the triangular shawl, start by stretching the longest edge as much as possible
and pinning it straight. Then, gently pull and pin the opposite corner. After blocking, the edge
stitches will be in a tightened state, as shown in the photo.

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