0% found this document useful (0 votes)
2K views26 pages

White 815 Sewing Machine Instruction Manual

The document is a comprehensive guide for operating a sewing machine, detailing various functions such as winding the bobbin, threading the machine, and adjusting stitch settings. It includes step-by-step instructions for tasks like making buttonholes, cleaning the shuttle race, and maintaining the machine. Additionally, it provides troubleshooting tips for common sewing difficulties and outlines different stitch patterns available on the machine.

Uploaded by

iliiexpugnans
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
0% found this document useful (0 votes)
2K views26 pages

White 815 Sewing Machine Instruction Manual

The document is a comprehensive guide for operating a sewing machine, detailing various functions such as winding the bobbin, threading the machine, and adjusting stitch settings. It includes step-by-step instructions for tasks like making buttonholes, cleaning the shuttle race, and maintaining the machine. Additionally, it provides troubleshooting tips for common sewing difficulties and outlines different stitch patterns available on the machine.

Uploaded by

iliiexpugnans
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

I

a
1. CONTENTS

1. Contents.
2. Description of machine 2—3
3. Winding the bobbin 4
4. Threading the bobbin case S
5. Inserting and removing the bobbin case 6
6. Threading the machine 7
7. Setting the needle 7
8. Preparing to sew 8
9. Starting to sew 8
10. Regulating the thread tension 9
11. Regulating the stitch length 10
12. Regulating the drop feed 10
13. Regulating width of zigzag stitch ‘11
14. Regulating length of zigzag stitch 11
15. List of zigzag patterns 12
16. Oiling 13
17. Cleaning the shuttle race 14
18. How to make buttonholes 15—16
19. Darning embroidering and monogramming 17
20. Button sewing 18
21. Narrow hemming 19
22, Zipper sewing 20
23. Felling 20
24. Cloth guide 21
25. Quilting 21
26. Some useful sewing hints 22
27. Cause of common difficulties 23
28. Needle and thread sizes 24

—1——
_______

2. DESCRIPTION OF MACHINE

15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

14
—1

13J L
12 ( ‘
I- 3
1 Balance Wheel 16 Thread Guide
2Stitch Length Control Knob 1 7.Tension Bracket
3 Reverse Push Button 1 8 Top Plate
4. Drop Feed Knob 19Spool Pin
5Dial Tension 20.Zig-Zag Width Lever
6 Needle Clamp 21 Bobbin Winder
7Needle Plate 22 Bobbin Winder Stopper
8.Slide Plate
9Presser Foot
lOPresser Foot Clamp Screw
1 1 Needle Bar Thread Guide
1 2.Lower Thread Guide
1 3 Horizontal Thread Guide
14.Face Plate
15Light Switch (Rear side>

—3—
3. WINDING THE BOBBIN

Hold the
1. To wind the bobbin, the balance wheel must be disconnected from the stitching mechanism.
balance wheel with your left hana and turn the stop motion knob (Fig, 1) towards you with your right
hand. This wil Qermi: the balance wneel to turn freely while the needle bar remains motionless. The
balance wneei is now disconnected for the bobbin winding operation.
from back to
2. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin. Draw thread from the spool through tension bracket
front (Fig. 2).
bobbin
3. Now wind the end o the thread around empty bobbin seven or eight times and place the threaded
on the sondle of the bobbin winder.
4. And push the bobbin winder from left to right.
completely
5. Now manipulate your foot control in the same manner as in sewing and when the bobbin is
fuli it will release automatically and stop turning. Detach bobbin from spindle. Hold balance wheel firmly
w,th ie’t hand and wth the right hand turn stop motion knob, away from you until it cannot be moved
any further and the needie bar moves with the turning of the balance wheel.

Fig 2
Fig 1 —4—
4. THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

Fig 3 Before threading the bobbin case, study Fig. 3, 4 and 5 to get a general dea
as to how it is done.
1. Hold the bobbin case with your left hand and put the Dobbin nrc :ne
bobbin case with your right hand, leaving about two inches of :re thread
end unwound (Fig. 3). As the bobbin is being inserted in the boboin case,
the thread flow, you wifl note, is clockwise.
2. While holding the oobbin case as before, grasp the thread end with your
right hand and guide it into the cross slot (Fig. 4).
3. Then pull it through under the tension spring of the bocbn case uni
enters the delivery eye (Fig. 5).

cross slot tension spnng

eye

Fig 4

Fig 5


b

5. INSERTING AND REMOVING THE BOBBIN CASE

1 Raise the presser bar by lifting the presser bar lifter.


.

2. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the balance wheel towards you.
3. Pull out slide plate (Fig. 6).
4. After tnreading the bobbin case, hold its latch (Fig. 7> between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, with its
position finger opposite the notch at the top of the shuttle race and replace it on the centre stud of the shuttle
(Fig 7).
5. Then release the latch and press the bobbin case back until the latch catches the groove near the end of the stud.
6. Allow the end of the thread to hang free.
7. Push back slide plate. To remove the bobbin case do all the above in reverse order.

Fig 6 Fig 7
—6—
6. THREADING THE MACHINE

Place a spool of thread on spool pin and raise the take-up


lever to its highest point Refer to(Fig. 8).
Pull thread through slot of upper thread guide (1) down
through tension discusi’2)up into thread check spring (3) and
(4> and on up into the eye of the take-up lever (5) from right
to left.
Return thread through middle thread guide (6) down through
lower guide (7) and into needle bar thread guide (8).
Thread needle from left to right, pulling about four inches
of thread through needle.

7. SETTING THE NEEDLE


Need’e

1. Turn the balance wheel towards you, raising needle bar


to its highest position, and loosen the needle clamp screw.
ace
2. Hold the needle in the left hand with the point down
and insert the needle up into the needle clamp as far Needle
as it will go with its flat surface to the right then retight Need’e
ba,
en the clamp screw (Fig. 9). screw
thread
go.de

Fig9

8. PREPARING TO SEW

the left hand, leaving it


1. Hold the end of the upper-thread with
slack from the hand to the needle.
to lef the needle bar to its
2. Turn the balance wheel towards you
highest position.
the lower thread will be brought
3. Pull the thread you are holding, and
as shown (Fig. 10).
up with it through the hole in the needle plate,
thread under and to the back
4. Place both ends of the ucper and lower
of the oresser foot (Fig. 11).
Fig 10

9. STARTING TO SEW

foot.
1 Place the fabric to be sewn beneath the presser
-

ng the presser bar lifter.


2. Lower the presser foot by loweri
the balance wheel toward s you while
3. Start sewing by slowly turning
gradually workng the foot controL
YOU!
ALWAYS TURN BALANCE WHEEL TOWARDS
Fig 11

—8—-
10. REGULATING THE THREAD TENSION

=;, -:==z;;

For ordinary stitching the tension of the upper


and lower threads should be equal so as to lock Correct Stitch
both threads in the center of the material (Fig.
1 3). If one tension is strongL’r than the other,
imperfect stitching will result. Fine materials
Li
Needle Thread Tension too strong
require a light tension, while heavy materials
require more tension to obtain -a perfect stitch.
TO INCREASE the tension, turn the thread -

tension dial (Fig. 12) clockwise. Needle Thread Tension too weak

TO LESSEN the tension, turn the thread tension Fig 12


Fig 13
dial in the opposite direction. (When regulat
ing the tension always have the presser foot
down).
As all machines are correctly adjusted before leaving the factory and
readjusted before the dealer delivers them to you, the lower tension
seldom requires to be altered, but, if this becomes necessary, tighten
the screw holding the tension spring on th€ outside of the bobbin case
for more tension, or loosen the screw slightly for lesser tension (Fig. 14).

Fig 14

—9—
b

11. REGULATING THE STITCH LENGTH

length dial (Fig. 15). In


The length of the sttch can be changed wth the stitch
turn the stitch iength dial until
order to se: macnine at a certain length of stitch,
the scale. The length of the stitch is
the mci icator s acng the selected number on
variable from 0-5. The normal stitch lenght is
2.
ength of the stitch as for forwar d sewing.
a. Regulate the
sem:ch button located in the centre of the stitch length dial (Fig.
b. Push reverse
sewing in reverse while the
151 as far as it .‘W go. The machine will remain
d the machine resumes forward
reverse stitch button is depressed. When release
seving .th th same st,tch ength,

Fig 15

12. REGULATING THE DROP FEED

e (Fig 16). It regulates the


The DROP FEED .s located on the bed of the machin
al, for darning and embroidering
height of the feed dog for sewing normal materi
the knob to left
1. For darnng, embrodering and monogramming, turn
mecha nism will be lowere d under the level of
“DOWN” place and the feed
thefleedle zlate, so that the material can be moved freely.

2. For normal sewing turn the knob to the right “UP” place.
Fig 16

—10—
13. REGULATING WIDTH OF ZIGZAG STITCH

01 2 345
%%•%%
\ / —--

Fig 17

The width of zigzag stitch is regulated by the zigzag lever. By pushing the zigzag lever to right, the width of the
zigzag stitch will increase accordingly. And by pushing the zigzag lever to left, the width of the zgzag stitch will
decrease accordingly. If at “0” position, there will be a straight stitch.

14. REGULATING LENGTH OF ZIGZAG STITCH

The stitch length dial regulates the length of the zigzag stitch for zigzag sewing in the same manner as for straight
sewing. In order to produce the “Satin Stitch” which is the closest zigzag sttch, set the stitch length dial close
toO.

—ii—
b

15. LIST OF ZIG ZAG PATTERNS

Stitch
Patterns How to move zig zag lever or needle position lever
Length

1 ———— 5 Lock zig zag lever at (0).

2 /\/\./\/ 5 Lock zig zag lever at (5)

P4Mm 0.5—2 Lock zig zag lever ati (5).

4 0.5—2 Move g zag lever from (0) to (5) at even speed

5 0.5—2 Rest atMand oscillateM-Vv\-and rest.

—12---
16. OILiNG

To see that your machine is always in smooth running condition, you must keep it oiled at all times.
No crease is required, just a drop of oil is sufficient at each time of oiling. Points to be oiled are il
ustrated in Fig, 18 & 19 by arrow marks. To oil your machine thoroughly, open top plate and turn
the machine over to get to parts underneath the bed.
After oiling, run the machine at high speed for a few minutes to let the oil penetrate to all parts.

Fig 18 Fig 19

— 13—
h

17. CLEANING THE SHUTTLE RACE

When the thread is tangled in the race or lint gets into the
space between the shuttle and shuttle-race, this will cause
abrupt heavy running or complete stoppage of the machine.
When this occurs
1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position and take the
bobbin case out.

fTh’ Fig 20

tr
.ø 1’

$y 2. Pull the KNOBS (A) on both side of shutte race (Fig. 20


& 21) aside, then take out the outside ring and the shuttle
body with your fingers.
3. After shuttle race and bobbin case have been c(eaned, put
all of them back in reverse order.
Fg 21

14
18. HOW TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES

1. Set zig-zag width between markings 1 and 2.


2. Raise the presser foot and turn the balance wheel towards you to bring needle to its highest position. Replace
reguiar presser foot with special buttonhole foot shown on Fig. 22. Tighten thumb screw.
3. Set stitch :ength to obtain closely spaced forward stitches. Best length of stitch for buttonholes is when
ndicator 5 placed between markings 0 and 1 on dial. Adjust length of stitch, if necessary, to get best possible
apoearance of buttonhole.
4. Slightly tighten needle thread tension, turning thread tension to the right, If appearance of buttonhole should

not prove satisfactory, slightly vary tension until the desired results are obtained.

NOTE: It is suggested that you make one or two sample buttonholes


on a clipping of fabric, same as your garment, to test adjustments
- /
of machine and to make corrections, if needed. Also mark with //
/
pencil or ch&lk the position and exact length of buttonhole on
garment. Adjust gauge on bottonhole presser foot (Fig 22) to ‘

correspond to the desired length of the buttonhole. To determine


this adjustment, measure size of button and add approximately
/
3/16” to 1/4”. The distance from the needle or the machine to
the front of the gauge should equal this measurement. The actual
sewing of the buttonhole should be done in this sequence. Fig 22
—15---
5. Place start of buttonhole under needle and have its face you. Let down presser foot and
begin sewing. Stop when first row of stitches reaches the gauge.

I
6. Turn handwheel toward you until needle makes another right hand stitch. Leave needle
in material. (Fig.22-A)
7. Raise presser foot slightly and turn garment clockwise around the needle. (Fig.22.B)
fleea e s
Lower presser foot and turn handwheel toward you until needle is above material. ‘ere rrQw
8 Setting zigzag width lever to the rightest position. Pslake 3 to 4 stitches to sew
Fig. 22
closing bar and stop machine with needle Out of material. The adjacent diagram (Fig. ‘

“eede
22-C) shows the buttonhole as far as it has progressed up to now.
9 Resetting zigzag width lever between markings 1 and 2. (to its original setting). Now
sew a second line of purl stitches making sure that the already sewn row passes through
the right-hand groove at the underside of the buttonhole presser foot. Stop machine
with needle out of material. The almost finished buttonhole will look like this (Fig.22-D).
1 O Setting zigzag width lever again and repeat operation described in paragraph 8
ee:
above this finishes the buttonhole. If desired, lock stitchirg by sewing a few stitches
with zigzag width lever returned to its normal position, so the indicator points at “0”
and turn the drop feed knob to left”down’ Insert Buttonhole Cutter at one end of
buttonhole and carefully cut material between the two rows of stitching. Avoid cutting
of stitching to assure strong and lasting buttonholes, to make reinforced buttonholes
introduce gimp of proper size into the samil hole right in front of the halfmoonshapeded
Fig. 22C
I
stitch hole of the buttonhole pressei foot. Sew over gimp as machine makes buttonholes
leave thread tension much the same as for ordinary sewing, Purl stitch buttonholes
11
require a tight tension of the needle thread. For better appearance, use needle thread
the next heavier size.
of

Fig. 22
I
19. DARNING EMBROIDERING AND MONOGRAMMING

Lower the feed by turning drop feed knob to “DOWN” thus permitting the work to be moved by hand

in any direction desired. Also remove presser foot andlower foot lifting lever and your machine is ready for

embroidering and darning. Both will be done most successfully when material is stretched on an embroidery

hoop.

Hold the hoop closely on the machine base with both hands and press the material with index finger on

the vicinity of the needle. This will help in holding down the material and will prevent the machine from

skipping stitches. Manipulate work carefully and be sure to keep finger out of path of needle to avoid injury.

Adjust thread tensions for best appearance of embroidery work and slightly decrease the upper thread

tension to avoid the lower thread from being pulled up.

17
h

20. BUTTON SEWING

Turn balance wheel towards you to


get needle to its highest position.

lar presser foot, with button sewi


ng
Rase presser bar and replace regu
dog as required for darning
ooz as shown in Fig. 23. Drop the feed
r thread tensions remain the same
and emorodering. Uper and lowe
(Z”
as for orainary sewing. )
er
ther with button under the press
Place material or garment toge
er foot.
line up with oblong hole in press
foot so that holes in button
r
Fig 23
permit needle to pass through cente
Adjust width of zigzag stitcn to

of boles in button.
le stitch in
you to make sure that need will
the balance wheel by hand towards
Before sewing with power, turn
needle hit the button it will break.
:he center of the hoies n buttonif the
h button.
Then sew fve to six stitches to attac
into second set of two holes and
four- hole butto ns first sew one set of two holes, then stitch
ihen attaching
stitches in last hole.
lock thread with o or three plain

—18—
21. NARROW HEMMING

Turn balance wheel towards you until needle reaches its


highest point. Raise presser bar and remove the regular presser
foot. Attach hemmer foot (Fig. 24).
1. Fold over edge of material approximately 34” wide, then
fold it over again in the same way for a length of about
2”. Insert this folded end from beneath into spiral formed /

opening (scroll) of hemmer foot. Move material back


and forth until the hem forms itself in the scroll.
2. Pull material towards you until the beginning of the hem
/ 1 I
is just below the needle,
3. Lower presser foot and begin to sew. Gu ide material Fig 24
into hemmer foot while sewing (Fig.24).

NOTE: Do not crowd material into scroll and do not leave scroll only partly filled by material,
feed just enougn
material into the hemmer foot to fill out the scroll.
Instead of a straight stitch, you can also use a zigzag stitch for this hemming operation.
Be sure however,
to adjust the width of the zigzag stitch to be as wide as the hem itself. Using a very long
stitch and nght
tensions will produce a shell stitch.

—19—
22. ZIPPER SEWING
of foot. Lower needle into the
Reease the thumb screw on rear side
n of the foot to avoid needle
see notcn of the foot and check positio
lock make sure that the foot
striKe the foot. Fasten thumb screw to the
is in DOS:t’On.
zipper under the folded portion
2. Fo d edge of the material by 3” and place
you wish to attach the zipper.
o’ :re mateal where
to the edge of the zipper foot along zipper te€th.
3. Stitch close
loosen thumb screw and slide
4, To se.. on the opposte side of the zipper,
tne foot over and sew in the same way.

Fig 25
23. FELLING

and proceed in the following manner:


hi TOE
Use the hemmer foot for doing felling
of the other with their RIGHT sides facing
()fl_riY’ I
1. Lay two p eces of cloth one on too
piece must extend about inch beyond
each other, The rght edge of the bottom
0/
the rgnt eoge of the top pece. See Fig. 26. P P/(C.
.i,/
presser
er using the hemmer foot like a regular
___

2. Se.. 00th oeces of cloth togeth piece


80/TOM PiECE
r foot to guide the bottom
foot. Use the r ght edge of long toe of hemme Fig 26
serves as a guide for the top piece
of mater ai ,vie the left edge of the same toe
o mater ai. F’g. 26 shows this aetail.
ard.
and put back on machine right sides downw
3. Onen and spreaa out materia’ ow
stand up. .N
i5Ke se.’.’ cages of mater a
into the scroll of the hemmer foot.
Fo o over tne edges to the left and insert them
ng. Use left edge of long toe of hemmer
S.’. aS jo ..ould do ordnay hemmi
ct as guoe, navng original seam run
alongside of it (Fig. 27)

—20— Fig 27
24. CLOTH GUIDE

The cloth guide (Fig. 28> serves as a gu ide for straight stitching
when making wide hems, deep tucks or seam widths which are
oreater than presser foot allows.
It is attached to machine as illustrated.

25. QUILTING

The quilter (Fig. 29) will enable you to sew equidistant lines on Fig 28
padded fabrics without the necessity of marking them in advance.
1. To attach the quilter to the presser bar of the machine,
loosen the presser foot thumb screw and place the quilter
astride the presser foot. The quilter must be on top of the
/
presser foot when secured on the presser bar.
2. Adjust the width guide of the quilter to the desired width
and drop guide on material.
3. Sew with the quilter width guide following the previous
stitches as in Fig. 29.

Fig 29

—21—
h

ING HINTS
26. SOME USEFUL SEW

TO TURN CORNERS:
material.
le the needle is still in the
1. Stop the machine whi
g the needle as a pivot.
t and turn the fabric usin
2. Raise the presser foo
t and resume sewing.
3. Lower the presser foo
TO SEW ELASTIC FABR
ICS: with reduced upper
, bias cut clot hs etc. , it is advisable to sew them
erials as jerseys
In sewing such elastic mat
n materials are stretched.
ion oth erw ise the thre ad will break when the sew
thread tens
OTH: any other thin
TO SEW VERY THIN CL e a sheet of newspaper or
clot h whi ch tend s to gather as you sew, plac g.
When sewing very thin your work from gatherin
wit h the sho rtes t stitc h possible. This will keep
erial ano sew
paper underneath the mat
BASTING: sible.
loy the longest stitch pos
Red uce the tens ion of the upper thread and emp
1
ling the lower thread.
be easily removed by pul
2. The stitches may then
:
IN PERFECT CONDITION
TO KEEP YOUR MACHINE l machine.
d and clean. Do not over-oi
all mo ving par ts of the machine constantly oile
1. Kee p
eel toward you.
2. Aways turn handwh
t cloth.
3. Do not run machine withou The machine is designed
to feed
mat eria l oth erw ise you will bend the needle.
pull the
4. When sewing, do not
the material automatically.
lifter is raised.
hine when the presser bar
5. Do not operate mac
—22---
27. CAUSE OF COMMON DIFFICULTIES

BREAKING OF THE UPPER THREAD:


1. Incorrect threading 2. Upper thread tension too tight
3. Faulty needle or needle set incorrectly
4. Needle brushing against presser foot or other attachments
5. Needle eye too small for thread used 6. Starting the machine suddenly or with a jerk
7. Starting the machine with the take up lever at its lowest positio
n
BREAKING OF THE LOWER THREAD:
1. Incorrect threading of the bobbin case 2. Lower thread tension too tight
3. Bobbin being wound too fully or too loose
4. Rough edge of hole in needle plate caused by improper needle
action
BREAKING OF THE NEEDLE:
1. Pulling the fabric while machine is running, thus causing, the needle
to strike the needle plate
2. Using bent needle
SKIPPING STITCHES:
1. Using bent or blunt needles 2. Needle inserted incorrectly
3. Needle threaded incorrectly 4. Usina wrong size needle
5. Pressure on presser foot insufficient, especially when sewing heavy
material
UNEVEN STITCHES:
1. Presser foot not resting evenly on material 2. Feed dog not being high enough
3. Using too short a stitch 4. Pulling the cloth while the machine is running
5. Using too fine a needle with to coarse a thread
6. Thread out of tension or check spring

—23—
28. NEEDLE AND THREAD SIZES

Type of Fabric SIZE OF THREAD


Sizes & Grades of and Cotton Silk Linen
Needles ; Work to be Done
j
1
Medium, light-weight and summertime fabrics.
80
0
1 1 For house dresses, children’s dresses, washable cotton to Twist
dresses, aprons, curtains. 100
(Medium-Fine)
Dress silks and cottons, light weight woolens, draperies, 60 I A& B
14 fabric furnishing. to Twist
(Medium) For general household sewing, fine men’s shirts, smocks, 80
window draperies ard fabric decorations.
40
Heavy cretonne, madras, muslin, brocades and quilts. C
16 For men’s work shirts, sturdy smocks and aprons, heavy to Twist
)Light-Heavy) auilting and fabric furnishings. 60 i

Heavy woven coating, light weight canvas, bed ticking, 30 D


18 upholstery and awning materials, slipcover fabrics. to Twist
(Medium-Heavy) For work or sports uniforms, suits made of strong linen 40
or cotton fabrics, awnings, slip covers and mattresses,
I

10 60
Heavy woven suiting, coating, duck, ticking, drilling,
.

E to
19 canvas and sacking. For heavy wash uniforms, bedding to
(Heavy) supolies for hospitals, hotels and camps. 30 I Twist 80

Very
I 40
21 to
For bags, canvas coarse cloths and heavy goods.

Coarse 60
(Extra-Heavy)

—24—-

You might also like