93099
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93099
DRAKABÄCKEN – SOCKS
These color-patterned wool socks are named for a pretty little brook in my childhood village. The
murmuring deep blue waters are surrounded by moss and spruce forest. The socks are worked toe-
up. The heel fits well and the pretty leg has a double rib section. The pattern is perfect for anyone
wanting to learn how to knit two-color stranded knitting because there are closely-spaced color
changes rather than long floats. Tip: You can match these socks with the pullover and mittens with
the same colorwork pattern.
YARN Svensk Ull 3 tr Raggsocka (Swedish Wool 3 ply SOCK FOOT LENGTH Approx. 8 (9, 9⅝, 10, 10¾, 11) in /
Raggsock) (75% wool, 25% polyamide, 197 yd/180 m / 21.5 (23, 24.5, 25.5, 27, 28) cm
100 g) YARN AMOUNTS AND COLORS
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTION Color 1: Approx. 100 (100, 100, 150, 150, 150) g (color
Raggi (70% superwash wool, 30% polyamide, 165 59221, Oat Porridge)
yd/150 m / 100 g) Color 2: Approx. 30 (30, 30, 30, 30, 30) g (color 59215,
GAUGE Approx. 18 sts x 23 rnds/rows in stockinette on Deep Baltic)
larger size needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. Color 3: Approx. 20 (20, 20, 20, 20, 20) g (color 59218,
Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if necessary. Jokk Berry)
SIZE Shoe size U. S. Women’s 4-5 (5½-6½, 7½-8½, 9½- NEEDLES U. S. sizes 4 and 6 / 3.5 and 4 mm: sets of 5
10½, 11½-12, Men’s 11-11½) / Euro 34-35 (36-37, 38-39, dpn
40-41, 42-43, 44-45) NOTIONS 4 stitch markers
SOCK CIRCUMFERENCE Approx. 7½ (7½, 8¼, 8¼, 9, 9) LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY Intermediate
in / 19 (19, 21, 21, 23, 23) cm DESIGNER Maja Karlsson
STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES around the stitch. Later, when you come to a wrapped
See Tips and Shortcuts on the last page for common st, purl the stitch with its wrap.
abbreviations and other useful information.
Judy’s Magic Cast-on:
M1R = make 1 right: With left needle, lift strand Use two needles. Hold the needles parallel together in
between 2 sts from back to front and knit into front your right hand so the tips point to the left. Hold the
loop = right-leaning increase. yarn as for long-tail cast-on, over your thumb and index
M1L = make 1 left: With left needle, lift strand between finger, with the yarn end over the thumb. Lay yarn over
2 sts from front to back and knit into back loop = left- needle nearest you. *Scoop the thumb yarn up
leaning increase. between the needles and lay it on the back needle. Lay
index finger yarn over front needle and down between
Short Rows with Wrapped Stitches the needles*. Rep *–* until you have cast on the desired
W&T: Wrap and turn. number of stitches.
How to Wrap a Stitch: Video: https://youtu.be/y7MZPq928yM.
On RS: Bring yarn to front of work. Slip next stitch to
right needle. Return yarn to back of work and slip st Short Rows
back to left needle. Turn. The yarn is now wrapped The term “short rows” means that you turn your
around the stitch. Later, when you come to a wrapped knitting before you have completed a row. You only
st, knit the stitch with its wrap. work part of a row. To avoid holes where you turn, you
On WS: Bring yarn to back of work. Slip next stitch to can wrap the stitch at the turn.
right needle. Return yarn to front of work and slip st
back to left needle. Turn. The yarn is now wrapped Reversible Bind-Off
Step 1: P1 but wrap yarn clockwise around needle
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when you make a purl stitch – that is, in the opposite previous row; w&t.
direction from a regular purl. Row 4 (WS): Purl until 1 st rem before wrapped st of
Step 2: Yo. previous row; w&t.
Step 3: P1, wrapping yarn clockwise. Repeat Rows 3-4 until all the sts outside M2 and M3 are
Step 4: Pass yarnover over the first st on right needle. wrapped. The center 9 (9, 11, 11, 11, 11) sts between M2
Step 5: Pass 2nd st over 1st st on right needle. and M3 should not be wrapped.
Repeat Steps 2-5 until all sts have been bound off.
Next Row (RS): K9 (9, 11, 11, 11, 11). Knit all wrapped
TOE sts up to M4; turn.
With color 1 and two larger size dpn, CO 14 (14, 18, 18, Next Row (WS): Sl 1 purlwise, purl up to wrapped sts
22, 22) sts using Judy’s Magic Cast-on (see Stitches and (after M2). Purl all wrapped sts up to M1.
Techniques).
HEEL FLAP
Rnd 1: Knit, at same time, dividing sts over 4 dpn. At the same time as making the straight heel flap, you
Rnd 2: K1, M1L, knit until 1 st rem on needle 2, M1R, k1. will join the heel gusset sts to the sides of the heel
Needle 3: K1, M1L, knit until 1 st rem on needle 4, M1R, Row 1 (RS): Turn and sl 1 knitwise, tightening yarn, knit
k1. until 1 st rem before M4, k2tog tbl.
Repeat Rnds 1-2 until you have a total of 38 (38, 42, 42, Row 2 (WS): Turn and sl 1 purlwise, tightening yarn,
46, 46) sts. purl until 1 st rem before M1, p2tog. Remove markers.
Row 3 (RS): Turn and sl 1 knitwise, tightening yarn, knit
Sts 1-19 (1-19, 1-21, 1-21, 1-23, 1-23) = top/instep. to slipped st. K2tog tbl, joining slipped st with next st
Sts 20-38 (20-38, 22-42, 22-42, 24-46, 24-46) = bottom on heel gusset (= joining 1 st before with 1 st after the
of foot/sole. gap at the turn).
Row 4 (WS): Turn and sl 1 purlwise, tightening yarn,
FOOT purl to slipped st. P2tog, joining slipped st with next st
Knit around in stockinette until foot measures 4¾ (5¼, on heel gusset (= joining 1 st before with 1 st after the
5¾, 6⅛, 6¾, 7) in / 12 (13.5, 14.5, 15.5, 17, 18) cm. gap at the turn).
Repeat Rows 3-4 until all the gusset sts have been
GUSSET joined (after the join on a RS row). Knit to end of row.
Rnd 1: Instep: Knit. Sole: K1, M1L, knit until 1 st rem,
M1R, k1. Next Rnd: Instep: Knit. Sole: K2tog, k18 (18, 20, 20, 22,
Rnd 2: Knit around. 22).
Repeat Rnds 1-2 until there are 31 (31, 33, 33, 35, 35) sts You should now have the same number of sts you had
on sole. on the foot before the gusset and heel – the heel is now
Knit 1 rnd and then knit across instep sts. Now it’s time complete!
to turn the heel.
LEG
HEEL TURN Change to smaller size dpn, knit 1 rnd, at the same time,
The heel turn is worked back and forth with short rows increasing 2 sts evenly spaced around = 40 (40, 44, 44,
and wrapped sts. You will work only on the sole/back 48, 48) sts.
sts.
With smaller size dpn, work 10 rnds in k1, p1 ribbing.
Place 4 markers as follows: Change to larger size dpn and knit 3 rnds.
M1 after the 6th (6th, 6th, 6th, 6th, 6th) st.
M2 after the 11th (11th, 11th, 11th, 12th, 12th) st. Now work following charted pattern, chart rows 1-23
M3 after the 20th (20th, 22th, 22 th, 23rd, 23rd) st. (sts 1-4 are repeated around).
M4 after the 25th (25th, 27th, 27th, 29th, 29th) st.
The center 19 (19, 21, 21, 23, 23) sts between M1 and Change to smaller size dpn and color 1 and work 10
M4 will become the heel flap. The center 9 (9, 11, 11, 11, rnds in k1, p1 ribbing.
11) sts between M2 and M3 are at center back for the BO with reversible bind-off method (see Stitches and
heel turn. Techniques above). Cut yarn.
Row 1 (RS): Knit until 1 st rem before M4; w&t (see Make the second sock the same way.
Stitches and Techniques above).
Row 2 (WS): Purl until 1 st rem before M1; w&t. FINISHING
Row 3 (RS): Knit until 1 st rem before wrapped st of Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Dampen socks,
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preferably from a spray bottle. Gently squeeze out
excess water by rolling socks in a towel. Lay socks flat to
dry, patted out to finished measurements.
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Col 1
Col 2
Col 3
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TIPS & SHORTCUTS
To avoid questions: Before you begin knitting, read through the pattern.
Stitch count: Always knit or crochet a gauge swatch as recommended in the pattern. If your stitch count doesn’t
match the gauge given in the pattern, try again with larger or smaller needles or hook. If your gauge doesn’t
match that in the pattern, your item will not be the correct size or shape.
Highlight the size you will knit or crochet throughout the pattern to make it easier to follow the instructions.
Charts: It will be easier to follow a chart if you mark your row with a ruler and magnetic board or sticky note.
Ease: The amount of ease included in our garments varies depending on the type and shape of the garment. To
determine the right size, we recommend that you first measure your body. Then you can calculate the garment
size depending on how much ease you want the garment to have. The schematics for each piece show all the
garment measurements.
Two-color stranded knitting: When knitting more than 3-4 stitches of the same color, twist the color strands around
each other on the wrong side to avoid long strands or “floats” on the back. If the yarns need to be twisted on several
rows/rounds, make sure you do not stack the twists in the same place to prevent the yarns from showing through on
the right side.
Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The colors may vary from
time to time. To get a smooth color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two rows from one and two
rows from another skein.
ABBREVIATIONS
alt = alternately, approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, BOR = beginning of row/round,
cc = contrasting color, col = color, cont = continue, dec = decrease, EOR = end of row/round, fl = front loop,
inc = increase, m = marker, mm = millimeters, mc = main color, patt = pattern, pm = place marker, rep = repeat,
rnd(s) = round/rounds, RM = remove marker, RS = right side, sl = slip, sl m = slip marker, st(s) = stitches,
tog = together, WS = wrong side, yo = yarn over
KNITTING
BO = bind off, cn = cable needle, CO = cast on, dpn(s) = double-pointed needles, g st = garter stitch,
k1f&b = knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k = knit (stitch), k2tog = knit two stitches together, kw = knitwise,
LH = left hand needle, p = purl (stitch), pw = purlwise, RH = right hand needle, ssk = slip, slip, knit,
St st = stockinette/stocking stitch, wyib = with yarn in back, wyif = with yarn in front
CROCHETING
ch = chain stitch, dc = double crochet, dtr = double treble crochet, hdc = half double crochet,
htr = half treble crochet, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, tr = treble crochet, tr tr = triple treble crochet
DIFFICULTY
Beginner: Anyone with no experience knitting/crocheting. Easy techniques and clear explanations.
Adventurous Beginner: For a beginner ready to take the next step. Clear explanations so you can try some new
techniques.
Intermediate: Anyone who has knitted/crocheted for a while but who wants a challenge. More advanced
techniques and two steps occur at the same time.
Experienced: For experienced knitters/crocheters who have already tried many techniques and methods.
Advanced/uncommon techniques and several steps occur simultaneously.
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