The term "Preparation"has two implications in
textile processing.
In Grey manufacturing
In grey manufacturing it is used to describe the
processes which prepare yarns for weaving and
knitting.
In WetProcessing
InWet Processing ,the term is used to describe
those processes that ready fabrics for the steps
that follow,coloration and finishing
“Pretreatment can be defined as a series of
cleaning processes /steps /operations that make
the fabric fit for the preceding processe .g. Dyeing
orPrinting andFinishing”
The steps that follow ,dyeing or printing and
finishing ,are greatly influenced by how the fabric is
prepared.
Improper preparation is often the cause of
problems encountered in the dyeing and finishing
steps
Preparation of Textiles
Preparation is a series of operations that prepare the grey yarn/fabric
for subsequent treatments e.g. dyeing, printing. The main operations
are singeing, desizing, scouring, bleaching & mercerization. Preparatory
processes may be carried out in dry or wet state.
Objectives of Preparation
Removal of all interfering substances coming
naturally or added during production.
Increasing absorbency for water, chemicals,
dyestuffs and auxiliaries.
Removal of latent tensions.
Fixation.
Types of Preparation:
Dry processes – brushing, cropping, singeing,
cutting, setting, stabilization
Wet processes – washing, desizing, scouring,
bleaching, mercerization
Singeing
Pretreatment of Cotton: Singeing
Definition
Singeing is the burning off of loose fibers sticking
out of textile goods .It is usually the first step carried
out after weaving
►Purpose
Clean fabric surface
Increased wettability
Improved visibilityof the fabric structure
Decreased contamination through removal off fluff
and lint
Elimination of spiky fiber tips from the fabric
surface
Reduction of pilling tendency in blends with
polyester
1 Preliminary mechanical purification
2 Burning down spiky fiber tips
Directly: -Gas flame, open flame
1200-1300 o C, cont. process up to 250 m/min
rectangular or tangential, free working or on water-cooled
roller
Glowing metallic bodies (velvets)
Indirectly: -high heated ceramic bodies
3 Fiber dust is brushed and sucked by exhaust air
4 Quenching in conjunction with impregnation
Machine Setup:
Setup parameters Range Set value
Speed (m/min) 0-120 55-60 for cotton.
70 for PC/CVC.
Potentiometer Setting (rpm) 0-150 80-90 for cotton fabric
60-70 for CVC/PC.
Burner in use 1 or 2 2
Burner operation mode. Auto/Manual Auto
Flame height (cm) 1-8 6 for white & light shade
fabric.
6.5 for medium & dark shade
fabric
Flame angle with the 45º to 90º 45º for blends
direction of fabric. 90º for cotton
Flame intensity Low/normal/high Low – not used
Medium – for whit & light
shade
High – for medium & dark
shade fabric
Pretreatment of Cotton: Singeing
Pretreatment of Cotton: Desizing
Definition
Desizing is the process of removing the size material
from the warp yarns in woven fabric
►TypesofSizes
Starch
Poly(VinylAlcohol)orPVA
CarboxyMethylCelluloseorCMC
►Purpose
Removal of added impurities likestarch
Weight loss
Improved wettability
To increase absorbency of the fabric
To increase lusture of dyeing and printing
To perfect action of scouring and bleaching
Desizing m/c
Natural sizes: swelling but not soluble in water
Synthetic sizes: water soluble, easily removable
Enzymatic Desizing by amylase
Protein as biological catalyst which accelerates
the pulping of the amylo-maize starch
Process is selective (lock-and-key principle)
Elimination of soluble starch leavings by washing
Pretreatment of Cotton: Scouring
Principle: Treatment of cotton at boil in diluted caustic soda solution for
decomposition of water insoluble interfering components
Chemical Reactions:
Saponification of fats and waxes
Decomposition of proteins and pectins
Dissolution of hemi cellulose
Objectives:
Hydrophilic surface, improve in absorption properties
Solubilized seed-coats
Increase of whiteness and 5-10% lost of weight
Contents Of Cotton Fibers After Ginning
Cellulose 95%
►Proteins 1.3%
Hydrolyzed to soluble fragments
►Pectic Substances 0.9%
Soluble in alkaline bath
►Ash(Ca,Mg,K,Na, phosphates, carbonates) 1.2%
Soluble in water
►OrganicAcids 0.8%
Soluble in alkaline bath
►Wax 0.3%
Converted to soap
Sugars 0.3%
Soluble
►Other(Dirt) 0.9%
Removedhysuspensionoremulsification
►Scouring remove residual size and ruptures primary wall to
increase absorbency
BLEACHING
Definition
Bleaching is the process of removing natural pigments and vegetable
impurities
Purpose
Improved whiteness
Level dyeing properties
To ensure level dyeing property
To increase absorbing for dyeing operation
Destruction of natural coloring matters from the fabric.
HydrogenPeroxide(H202)
Cotton,Silk,Wool,Jute,
SodiumHypochloride(NaOCl)
Cotton
Bleaching One Bath:
Batch weight: 400 Kg
Chemical Name g/l Kg
Chimistone Nilf 1.000000 3.200000
Phenolas Crease-10 1.000000 3.200000
Chemical 540 1.000000 3.200000
Chimistab FG 0.400000 1.280000
BLEACHING
Caustic Soda 1.800000 5.750000
Hydrogen per oxide 2.010000 6.432000
Sodium Thiosulphate 1.020000 3.264000
Acetic acid 0.700000 2.240000
Acetic acid (enzyme) 0.262500 840.0000g
Phenolas CLN.20 1.507500 4.824000
Phenozyme 1000 0.500000% 2.000000
•Fabric is loaded in the machine.
•3200 liter water is added in the dye bath. As liquor ratio is 1:8.
•Temperature is raised at 600c & fabric is circulated for (3-5) minutes.
•Add sequestering agent, anti creasing agent, detergent & stabilizer.
•Add Caustic Soda at linear dosing for about 10 minutes.
•After 5 minutes add H2O2 at curve dosing for about 40 minutes at temperature 700c &
run the m/c for 5 min.
•Raise temperature at 1000c. Maintaining pH at 10.6
•Fabric is circulated for 30 minutes at 1000c.
•Add Sodium thiosulphate (peroxide killer) dosing for 10 minutes & run for 10 minutes.
•Decrease temperature at 600c and then drain.
•Take water and add acetic acid and raise temperature at 600c and run for 10 minutes
then drain.
•Again take water and add acetic acid to maintain pH 4.5
•Then enzyme and enzyme catalyst is added and fabric is circulated for about 60 minutes.
•Then bath is drained off and fabric is washed about 800c for 10 minutes. Then rinse wash
is done.
•Fabric is unloaded.
Curve:
Definition
Mercerization is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread
mostly employed to give cotton a lustrous appearance
Purpose
Improve dye finity and yield
Improve breaking strength
Improve dimensional stability
Improve chemical reactivity
Improve fabric smoothness
Cover immature cottonfibers
1-5 Swelling process in an alkaline solution
6 Removal of alkali by water substitution
7 After drying
Required parameter:
Parameters Value
Squeeze pressure 1.5-2 bar (by compressed air)
Temp of washing 80º c to 90ºc
PH after mercerizing 7-7.5
Caustic soda solution temp In mixing tank: 80º c -90ºc
In caustic storage tank: 70º c - 80ºc
In chiller: 16º c- 20ºc
In mercerizing bath: 18º-20ºc
Heat Setting
Definition
Heat treatmen to fabrics containing thermoplastic
synthetic fibers.Stabilizes fabric by reducing
shrinkage and distortion
Purpose
Thermoplastic fibers are undergo through the
process of heatsetting and results in:
Stabilization of fabric structure
