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Fabric Preparation and Pattern Layout

The document discusses preparing fabric for cutting patterns by ensuring the grain is even. Methods to even the grain include clipping selvages, pulling threads, and stretching. It also discusses laying out patterns efficiently without wasting fabric. Key steps are determining the fabric print and necessary allowances. Various methods are outlined for transferring pattern marks to fabric, such as using tracing wheels, chalk, and machine stitching without a needle. Maintaining the fabric grain and properly transferring pattern marks are essential steps before cutting garments.

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Naason
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334 views13 pages

Fabric Preparation and Pattern Layout

The document discusses preparing fabric for cutting patterns by ensuring the grain is even. Methods to even the grain include clipping selvages, pulling threads, and stretching. It also discusses laying out patterns efficiently without wasting fabric. Key steps are determining the fabric print and necessary allowances. Various methods are outlined for transferring pattern marks to fabric, such as using tracing wheels, chalk, and machine stitching without a needle. Maintaining the fabric grain and properly transferring pattern marks are essential steps before cutting garments.

Uploaded by

Naason
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PPTX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

PREPARING FABRICS AND LAYING OUT PATTERNS AND CUTTING AND TRANSFERRING MARKS ON THE FABRIC

INTRODUCTION

 One of the most important activities in garment


construction is the efficient laying out of pattern
pieces on the fabric. In laying out, one must study
carefully how each pattern is arranged on the cloth
and how each pattern fits with other patterns so that
no amount of fabric and cloth is wasted.
Preparing the Fabric
 Preparation of the fabric is an essential step in the
construction of any garment. These are terms that you have
to understand to do the right preparation of the fabric:
 Selvage
This is the finished edge of the
fabric running lengthwise on
the bolt of the fabric. It is
about ½ inch or 1 cm and very
firmly woven wide in good
fabric while in poor fabric, it is
narrow and more loosely
woven.
 Lengthwise thread
or yarns(warps)
These Threads are the threads
running parallel to the selvage.
The lengthwise thread are
stronger than the crosswise
threads and for this reason,
garments are cut in such a way
that the lengthwise thread run
lengthwise on the body.
 Crosswise threads
These are the threads running
perpendicular or at a right
angle to the selvage. These
threads are slightly weaker
than the lengthwise threads.
True Bias
A true bias makes a 45 degree
angle across the lengthwise or a
crosswise thread. This is the
diagonal of a perfect square of
the fabric. The outstanding
characteristics of the bias line is
the greatest stretch.
 On grain
A fabric with perfect grain
should have the crosswise
yarns at right angles to the
lengthwise yarns. Off Grain
fabric yarns are not at right
angles to each other.
Before layouting, cutting and transferring the line, the grain should be
perfect or even. The following are methods of making fabric even :

 A. Cutting – very loosely fabric, fabrics with a woven crosswise stripe, or fabrics
with some prominent crosswise threads can be evened very quickly by cutting
along a visible crosswise thread as in basket weave or Aida cloth.

B. Clipping – Clipping or cutting a slit in the selvage following the crosswise


grain is the easiest and the quickest method of straightening the fabric.

C. Pulling Threads – Pull out a crosswise thread and continue pulling it until it
puckers up the fabric, then cut along this puckered line.

D. Stretching - Sometimes the ends of a fabric do not meet when folded


because the fabric has been finished or stretched off grain.
POINTERS IN LAYING OUT PATTERNS

 Determine and analyze the print of the cloth.

Determine from the pattern pieces the width of the folds.

If you are sure that all your fabric is enough to accommodate all
pattern pieces, then you can finalize your pattern layout with the
necessary allowance on the side patterns.
Methods for transferring marks to fabric
 1. Tracing Wheel AND Carbon Paper- This is to mark two corresponding
pieces that are cut together at the same time.

2. Tailor’s Chalk – This for marking heavily napped, sheer and loosely
woven fabrics.

3. Machine Stitching – This is to transfer construction marking to right


side of the fabric that have been traced on the wrong side. Stitching is
done without threading the needle.

4. Pins- this for temporary marking only

5. Chalk – This is for indicating the right and wrong side of the fabric, the
left and right sides of garment and the under collar and under cuffs.
 6. Fold Lines- This is done by pressing or creasing the
folds or marks in the fabric.

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