Stitch Classification
ASTM Definitions
• A stitch is the configuration of the interlacing
of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit.
• A seam is line where two or more fabrics are
joined.
• A stitching consists of a series of stitches
embodied in a material for ornamental
purposes or finishing an edge or both.
Stitch Classification
• Class 100 : Single thread chain stitch
• Class 200 : Hand stitch
• Class 300 : Lock stitch
• Class 400 : Multi thread chain stitch
• Class 500 : Over lock
• Class 600 : Cover stitch
STITCH TYPE 101
This type of stitch is formed with one
thread introduced from one side of
material only. Single thread chain
stitch are often used for temporary
stitching (i.e. basting or for blind
stitching. Particular care is required to
prevent run back form the last stitch.
Good Extension but unravels easily.
Approximate Seam Length : Thread
Consumption ratio = 1: 5
STITCH TYPE 209
This type of stitch is formed with one
thread . It is machine made version of
traditional hand stitch some times
referred as saddle stitch
STITCH TYPE 301
This type of stitch is formed with two
thread : one needle thread ( A ) and
one bobbin thread ( B ). A loop thread
( A ) is passed through the material
and interlaced with thread ( B ).
Thread ( A ) is then pulled back so
that the interlacing is midway
between surfaces of the material or
material being . Ideally , this stitch
should have a 1:1 ratio of needle to
bobbin thread.
Approximate Seam Length : Thread
Consumption ratio = 1: 2.5
301
• Doesn’t unravel
• Poor extension
• Stitch is reversible
• Uses least amount of thread.
• Lower productivity.
• More susceptible to thread breakage.
• Excellent seam security.
STITCH TYPE 304
This type of stitch is formed with two
thread : one needle thread ( A ) and one
bobbin thread ( B ). The 304 stitch
formation referred to as the Zig-Zag
stitch lockstitch. To produce the zig-zag
appearance , the needle bar moves
laterally as the material is fed. A loop
thread ( A ) is passed through the
material and interlaced with thread
( B ). Thread ( A ) is then pulled back so Approximate Seam Length :
that the interlacing is midway between Thread Consumption ratio =
surfaces of the material or material 1: 5.5
being . Ideally , this stitch should have a
1:1 ratio of needle to bobbin thread.
304
• Doesn’t unravel
• Better extension than 301 , used in lingerie
where security and extension both are required.
• Stitch is reversible
• Lower productivity.
• More susceptible to thread breakage.
• Excellent seam security.
STITCH TYPE 401
This type of stitch is formed with two
thread : one needle thread ( A ) and one
looper thread ( B ). Loop of thread ( A )
are passed through the material and
interlaced and interlooped with loops of
thread ( B ) . These interlooping are
drawn up against the inderside of the
bottom ply of the material being sewn.
Approximate Seam Length :
Thread Consumption ratio =
1: 5.5
401
• Higher stretch.
• Higher productivity.
• Seam run back ( unraveling is big problem )
• Increase bulk under seam used for joining
trouser.
STITCH TYPE 404
This type of stitch is formed with two
thread : one needle thread ( A ) and one
looper thread ( B ). The 404 stitch
formation referred to as the Zig-Zag
chain lockstitch. To produce the zig-zag
appearance , the needle bar moves
laterally as the material is fed. One
needle thread A and one looper thread
B . Loops of thread A are passed
through the material interlaced and Approximate Seam Length :
interlooped with loops of thread B. Thread Consumption ratio =
These interloopong are drawn up 1:7
against the undersside of the bottom
ply of the material being sewn.
STITCH TYPE 406
This type of stitch is formed with three
thread : Two needle thread ( A & A1)
and one looper thread ( B ). Loops of
needle thread A and A1 are passed
through material and interlaced and
interlooped with loops of thread B.
These interlooping are drawn up against
the undersside of the bottom ply of the
material being sewn.
Approximate Seam Length :
Thread Consumption ratio =
1:15.5
406
• Excellent extension unravel easily.
• T/shirt/ Knit sleeve & bottom hem, stitching of
belt loops in trouser and jeans.
• Gives very good extension and is mostly used
to cover a raw edge in the fabric after fabric
has been hemmed.
STITCH TYPE 407
This type of stitch is formed with four
threads : Three needle thread ( A , A1 &
A2) and one looper thread ( B ). Loops
of needle thread A , A1 and A2 are
passed through material and interlaced
and interlooped with loops of thread B.
These interlooping are drawn up against
the undersside of the bottom ply of the
material being sewn.
Approximate Seam Length :
Thread Consumption ratio =
1:20
STITCH TYPE 408
This type of stitch is formed with five
threads : Two needle thread ( A and
A1) , two looper thread ( B and B1 ),
and one top covering thread. This stitch
is two rows of 401 stitch with one top
covering thread is laid between and
around the needle threads on the
surface of the material. Interlooping
are drawn up against the undersside of
Approximate Seam Length :
the bottom ply of the material being
Thread Consumption ratio =
sewn.
1:17
STITCH TYPE 503
This type of stitch is formed with two
threads :one needle thread A and one
looper thread B . Loop of the needle
thread (A) are passed through the
material and brought to the edge where
they are interlooped with thread B . The
loops of thread ( B ) are extended from
interloping to the point of needle
penetration of the next stitch are
Approximate Seam Length :
interlopped with thread A
Thread Consumption ratio =
1:10.5
STITCH TYPE 504
This type of stitch is formed with three
threads :one needle thread A and one
looper thread B and one upper looper
thread ( C ). Loop of the needle thread (A)
are passed through the material and
interlooped with loops of thread B at the
point of penetration on the underside of
the material. The loops of thread (B ) are
extended to the edge of the material and
threre interlooped with loops of the upper
looper thread ( c ) . Loops of thread ( c ) are Approximate Seam Length :
extended from this interlooping point of Thread Consumption ratio =
the needle penetration of the next stitch 1:14
and there they are interlooped with thread
(A)
504
504
504
• 3 Thread O/L has 1 needle and 2 looper thread.
• Has excellent extension & does not unravel
easily.
• Used for serging to stop fabric fraying & for
joining 2 or more plies together.
• Stitch is not tight and seam security could be a
problem.
• Bulky Seam.
STITCH TYPE 512
This type of stitch is formed with four
threads : Two needle thread ( A & A1 )
and lower looper thread B and one upper
looper thread ( C ). Loop of the needle
thread (A & A1) are passed through the
material and interlooped with loops of
thread B at the point of penetration on the
underside of the material. The loops of
thread (B ) are extended to the edge of the
material and threre interlooped with loops
of the upper looper thread ( c ) . Loops of Approximate Seam Length :
thread ( c ) are extended from this Thread Consumption ratio =
interlooping point of the needle 1:15.5
penetration of the next stitch and there
they are interlooped with thread ( A )
512
512
512
• Mock Safety Stitch has two needle & 2 looper
thread .
• Very good extension will not unravel.
• Side seam Join panels attach sleeve, join
shoulder etc.
• Where there is need for secure seam with
good extension.
STITCH TYPE 514
This type of stitch is formed with four
threads : Two needle thread ( A & A1 )
and lower looper thread B and one upper
looper thread ( C ). Loop of the needle
thread (A & A1) are passed through the
material and interlooped with loops of
thread B at the point of penetration on the
underside of the material. The loops of
thread (B ) are extended to the edge of the
material and threre interlooped with loops
of the upper looper thread ( c ) . Loops of Approximate Seam Length :
thread ( c ) are extended from this Thread Consumption ratio =
interlooping point of the needle 1:20.0
penetration of the next stitch and there
they are interlooped with thread ( A & A1 )
514
514
STITCH TYPE 515
This type of stitch is formed by
simultaneously sewing one row
of stitch 401 , using thread ( A &
B ), a specific distance from the
edge of the material , and one
row of stitch type 503 using
thread ( A1 & B 1 ) on the edge
of the material
Approximate Seam Length :
Thread Consumption ratio =
1:17.5
STITCH TYPE 516
This type of stitch is formed by
simultaneously sewing one row
of stitch 401 , using thread ( A &
B ), a specific distance from the
edge of the material , and one
row of stitch type 504 using
thread ( A1 , B 1 & C1 ) on the
edge of the material Approximate Seam Length :
Thread Consumption ratio =
1:20.0
516
516
516
• 5 Thread safety stitch has 2 needle thread and
3 looper thread.
• Good extension very strong.
STITCH TYPE 602
This type of stitch is formed
with 4 threads, two needle
threads ( A ) and ( A1 ), one
looper thread and one cover
thread ( C ) . Loops of thread
( A ) and ( A1 ) are passed
through loops of thread ( C )
already cast on the surface of
the material , and then through
Approximate Seam Length :
the material where they shall be
Thread Consumption ratio =
interlooped with loops of
1:20.0
thread B on the underside.
602
602
602
• Top and bottom cover seam stitch
• Has 2 needle thread 1 looper and 1 spreader.
• As a decorative stitch on night gown.
STITCH TYPE 605
This type of stitch is formed
with 5 threads, needle threads
( A ), ( A1 ) and ( A2 ), one
looper thread B and one cover
thread ( C ) . Loops of thread
( A ) (A1) and ( A2 ) are passed
through loops of thread ( C )
already cast on the surface of
the material , and then through
the material where they shall be
interlooped with loops of Approximate Seam Length :
thread B on the underside. Thread Consumption ratio =
1:27.0
605
605
605
• Utilize 3 needle thread , one looper & one
cover thread.
• Used in knitted lingerie
• High Seam Elasticity.
• Ideal for next to skin sewing application.
• Can also be used as decorative stitch.
STITCH TYPE 607
This type of stitch is formed
with 6 threads, four needle
threads ( A ), ( A1 )( A2 ) and
( A3 ) , one looper thread B and
one cover thread ( C ) . Loops of
thread ( A ) (A1) ( A2 ) and ( A3 )
are passed through loops of
thread ( C ) already cast on the
surface of the material , and
then through the material
where they shall be interlooped Approximate Seam Length :
with loops of thread B on the Thread Consumption ratio =
underside. 1:32
607
