Chapter 3
Propagation of Ornamental Plants
plant propagation is the heart of commercial ornamental plant
production .
As any other horticultural plants, all propagation principles are also
applicable for Ornamental plants.
Ornamental plants can be propagated
by seeds sexually,
by using vegetative parts asexually and
by using new technological method, biotechnology method
Most bedding plants and a significant number of cut flowers, potted
flowering and foliage plant species are propagated from seeds.
In a number of species, sexual reproduction produces plants that are
too variable for commercial production and asexual methods are
therefore required.
Sexual propagation entails the recombination of genetic material.
In nature this results in progeny that differ from each other and from
their parents.
Vegetative propagation is clonal; progeny are genetic
copies of the parent plant.
It produces a clone consisting of all individual plants
propagated from one original plant.
Some cultivars have desired traits which are not
reliably replicated through sexual reproduction and
must be asexually reproduced.
Asexual propagation is also used in situations when
3.1 Sexual Propagation of Ornamental Plants
Propagation by seed is the most commonly method of
producing new plants.
Common annual and biennial vegetables and flowers are
grown easily from seed.
Perennials grown from seed may take more than one season
to flower.
Lawn grasses are commonly grown from seed by the home
gardener.
Sexual propagation of plants involves the exchange of
genetic material between parents to produce a new
Advantages:
It is the means of creating genetic diversity of plants.
It is usually the only method of producing new varieties . New
varieties of ornamental and vegetable crops can be developed
only by this method.
Creation of hybrids is possible by commercial growers.
It is often the cheapest and easiest method of producing of
plants.
Seeds can be transported easily and stored for a longer time
using this method
It can be a way to avoid certain diseases.
Disadvantages of seed or sexual propagation
It fails to produce plants true to variety
It takes a longer time to produce a salable plant.
Viability of many seed is often very short, sometimes only 3 to
10 days.
Dormancy problem in some flowers like roses.
Viable seeds of many ornamentals fail to germinate
immediately when placed under conditions considered optimum
for germination.
Such seeds are said to be dormant.
Plants grow vigorously and cause obstruction in intercultural
practices like harvesting and spraying.
Crop species, which do not produce seeds like jasmine,
hibiscus, bougainvillea, pineapple, banana, strawberry, fig,,
Establishing nursery
Nursery is a place where planting materials
(seedlings, cuttings, grafts) are propagated and
raised with the maximum possible care until
they are strong enough to be planted out in
their production field (before transplanting).
The Need for Nursery Establishment
To give seeds better condition for germination
To apply optimum growing conditions to the plants during their early
development stage.
It is very convenient to look after the tender seedlings
To economized on seeds and land usage
To protect from adverse temperature, heavy rains, drought, wind
and a variety of pests and diseases.
To avoid weak and diseased plants so as to obtain uniform crop
stand in the main field
Sowing Seeds indoor
Environment for Germination
Medium used for germinating seed must have
a high water-holding capacity,
good drainage and
good aeration.
Regardless of the media that is used for germination,
it should be sterile.
Plants are grown in the greenhouse environment
until good root systems are formed.
Transplant production involves planting a seed in
every cell of a germinating tray.
the primary reason transplants produced indoor
condition is to have plants in the field as soon as
the risk of freeze is over.
The earliest planting produces the earliest harvest.
Starting ornamental plants in the greenhouse will
Structures for Planting
Seeds may be planted in flats, pots, greenhouse benches and
similar structures.
Cover germination facilities with moisture-proof plastic, glass or
other material to prevent water loss from the medium and
surrounding air.
Plastic coverings are most desirable because they maintain high
humidity without restricting movement of air or oxygen.
Nursery management
All routine activities from sowing to transplanting to the
permanent place are included in the nursery management
practice.
Mulching: Is practice of covering soil surface with organic or
inorganic materials.
Mulching material in general should be placed over the beds
immediately after sowing and removed after the seedlings have
germinated and
have attained sufficient height or when the danger of frost or
Advantages of mulching
🖙 Prevents blowing away of seeds from nursery bed
🖙 It saves the seeds from being picked away by the birds, rodents and
other animals
🖙 Prevent young seedlings from frost damage during winters and
scorching sun during summers
🖙 Conserves soil moisture, thus reduces irrigation frequency
🖙 Prevents weed growth
🖙 Keeps soil cool in day, warm at night hours
🖙 Reduces surface run-off and allows the absorption of more rain water,
thus prevents soil erosion
Watering: The seed bed should be watered immediately
after sowing.
The frequency of watering will depend on the local weather
conditions of the nursery site.
The best time for watering is at early morning and late
afternoon.
Thinning: A cultural practice, which involves removal of
surplus seedling from densely populated seedlings to
achieve desired planting density in nursery bed by retaining
Fertilization: Nursery growers should test soils/media each year to
determine nutrient requirement of nursery beds.
Pest control: Insects, diseases and weeds will always exist in great
abundance in the nursery. Those pests must be controlled.
Hardening-off: is the process of preparing plants to
withstand adverse environmental conditions (light,
temperature, relative humidity) in the field.
Transplants are hardened prior to placing in the field to
reduce shock and stress due to the transplanting process.
This is accomplished by slowly removing the optimum
growing conditions of the nursery like,
by reducing the water and
fertilizer that the plants receive,
high or lower temperature,
strong sunshine
by reducing the shade level.
2. Asexual propagation of ornamental plants
It is also called ‘vegetative propagation’.
The vegetative parts of a plant like leaf, stem, root are used
as a propagule.
Sexual reproduction produces plants that are too variable for commercial
production and asexual method is required.
Most of the horticultural crops are commercially propagated
by vegetative or asexual method of propagation.
Vegetative propagation progeny are genetic copies of the
parent plant.
It produces a clone consisting of all individual identical plants
propagated from one original plant.
Merits of asexual propagation
Many fruit and ornamental plants that do not produce seeds &
multiplied by this method(e.g. jasmine, hibiscus, bougainvillea)
Plants propagated by asexual propagation are true-to-type
genetically.
By top working (using budding and grafting), old and
economically low productive plants can be converted into
superior ones.
It is also used in situations when seed propagation is too long.
Advantages offered by rootstocks and scion can be exploited
through asexual method.
Maturity is uniform and the plant gives quality yield.
Plants propagated by asexual method are small in size, so
spraying of chemicals and harvesting are easy.
This method enables noble plant production,
e.g., different colours of flowers in a single rose plant and
different types of fruits in one plant can be produced through
asexual method.
Demerits of asexual propagation
By vegetative propagation, new varieties cannot be
developed.
It requires specialized skills, so it is an expensive
method of propagation.
The life span of asexually propagated plants is short
as compared to sexually propagated ones.
These plants are more prone to biotic and abiotic
1. Principles and Techniques of Cutting Propagation
Cutting propagation is the most common form of asexual propagation
of ornamental plants.
Cutting is a detached vegetative part of a plant, which on separation
and planting is able to regenerate the missing parts and develop itself
into a new plant.
In cutting propagation a section of stem, leaf or root cut from a source
plant is taken and induced to form roots and shoot by chemical,
mechanical and/or environmental manipulation.
the dominant method for many important flowering species including
poinsettias, chrysanthemums, carnations and numerous foliage
species.
advantages of propagation of plants by cuttings
It is a rapid and simple technique as compared to other asexual
methods &
Parent plants reproduce exactly with no genetic change
Greater uniformity is achieved by absence of variation which
sometimes appears as a result of the variable seedling rootstocks of
grafted/budded plants.
Does not require a special techniques w/c are necessary in grafting &
budding
Many plants can be started in a limited place from a few stock plants.
Limitations of propagation by cutting
Plants from cuttings develop poor root system.
Hence it is not always desirable to produce plants
on their own roots by cutting even if it is possible
to do so.
Cutting propagation like other asexual propagation
techniques may increase disease and insect
susceptibility.
Types of cuttings
Cuttings are made from the vegetative portion of the plant, such as stems,
leaves and roots.
The method is named after the part of plant used for
cutting, e.g., stem, root and leaf
Cuttings can be classified according to the part of the plant from which
they are obtained as:
Stem cutting
Leaf Cutting
Leaf bud Cuttings
Propagation by stem and leaf bud cuttings (single
eye cuttings) requires only that
a new adventitious root system be formed, because
potential shoot system (a bud that will develop to the
shoot system) is already present.
In these two cases axillary shoot and adventitious
roots will develop from cuttings.
Root and leaf cuttings must initiate both a new shoot
system from an adventitious bud as well as new
adventitious roots.
In other word shoots and roots from root and leaf
Stem Cuttings
Stem cuttings can be divided in to four groups, according
to the nature of the wood used for propagation:
hard wood,
semi-hardwood,
soft wood and
herbaceous cuttings.
When you select stem cuttings:
Select healthy and vigorous pencil size cuttings from
healthy mother plant.
Select a stem having at least two vegetative lateral and
terminal buds.
Avoid cuttings having flower buds.
Vegetative buds are relatively small and pointed, but
flowering buds are relatively big and round in their
Hardwood Cuttings
Hardwood cuttings are those made of matured, dormant, firm woods
They are relatively light brown or brown in their color.
they are inflexible when you try to bend them and stronger.
They are easy to prepare, are not readily perishable, may be shipped
safely over long distances if necessary, and require little or no
special equipment during rooting.
It is one of the least expensive and easiest methods of vegetative
propagation particularly for easy to root woody perennial plants.
Hardwood cuttings are prepared during dormant season, usually from
wood of previous season’s growth.
Many deciduous ornamental shrubs (Bougainvillea, Hibiscus,
Lantana, etc) propagated commercially by this method.
Hardwood cuttings vary in length from 10 to 30 cm.
Semi-hardwood cuttings
Semi-hardwood (green wood) cuttings are those made
from partially matured wood.
Its color is green and we can bend it to a curve
without breaking the stem.
Cuttings of evergreen species are taken from new
shoots just after a flush of growth.
Semi-hard wood cuttings are made 8 to 15 cm long
with leaves retained at the upper end.
If leaves are very large, they can be trimmed 1/3 to 1/2
their size to reduce the leaf surface area.
Many broad–leaved evergreen shrubs and trees such as
Nerium,
Camellia,
Rhododendron,
Callistemon,
Abutilon,
Fuchsia,
Hydrangea,
Euonymus,
Cuphea,
Softwood cuttings
Cuttings prepared from the soft, succulent, new growth of
deciduous or evergreen species.
Softwoods are produced during growth flushes (active growth
period) and may occur just once per year or several times during
the year.
Many ornamental woody plants can be started by softwood
Even though the level of stored carbohydrate in softwood
cuttings is small as compared to the above type of cuttings,
due to high level of meristematic cells such type of cuttings
produce adventitious root faster than other types.
For some difficult-to-root species using hard or
semi hardwood cuttings, softwood cuttings may
be the only commercial method to clonally
Herbaceous cuttings
Herbaceous cuttings are made from succulent,
non-woody plants like chrysanthemums, coleus,
carnations and many foliage crops.
They are 8 to 13 cm long with leaves retained at
the upper end or without leaves.
Herbaceous cuttings are rooted under the same
conditions as softwood cuttings.
Leaf cuttings
In leaf cuttings, the leaf blade or leaf blade with petiole
is utilized in starting a new plant.
In this case the original leaf does not become a part of a
new plant.
It disintegrates after the new plant is formed.
This implies that both adventitious root and shoot will
develop from planted leaf cut and make the cutting to a
complete and independent plant.
Only a limited number of plant species can be
propagated by leaf cuttings.
Sansevieria,Saintpaulia, Begonia, Iresine, and Peperomia
are routinely propagated by leaf cuttings.
In some cases, such as with Sansevieria, the leaves are
cut into segments and inserted into the medium.
Each segment regenerates shoots and roots.
Leaf cuttings should be rooted under the same
conditions of high humidity as those used for softwood or
herbaceous cuttings.
Root promoting chemicals are usually helpful.
Leaf – bud cuttings (single-eye or single-node cuttings)
A leaf-bud cutting (single-eye or single-node cuttings) consist of
a leaf blade, petiole and a short piece of the stem with the
attached axillary's bud.
They differ from leaf cuttings in that only adventitious roots need
to form.
The axillary's bud (potential stem) at the nodal area of stem
A number of plant species such as blackberry, lemon, and
Rhododendron are started by leaf-bud cuttings, as well as
many tropical shrubs and most herbaceous green house
plants usually started by this method.
Leaf-bud cuttings are particularly useful when
propagating material is scarce, because they will produce
at least twice as many new plants from the same amount
of stock material as can be started by stem cuttings.
Each node can be used as a cutting.
Root Cuttings
Some species of plants are propagated by harvesting roots and
cutting them into sections which are then planted in the
medium. E.g butterfly weed (Asclepiastuberosa)
Be sure the correct orientation is used in planting the cuttings.
Cuttings are planted with the proximal end up.
Root cuttings are usually taken during dormant season
During this time sufficient amount of carbohydrates are stored
in a root of a stock plant.
Polarity in Cuttings
Correct polarity is very important in case of stem and
root cuttings.
For stem cuttings shoot will develop from distal portion
of cuttings and adventitious roots will emerge from the
proximal portion of cutting.
However for root cuttings the reverse is true( i.e.
rooted cuttings produce shoot on their proximal end and
In case of leaf cuttings, unlike to stem and root
cuttings, they are less sensitive for polarity.
For example, Sansevieria produces an adventitious root
either on the proximal or distal end of a cutting.
The proximal end of either the shoot or root is the
nearest the stem-root junction (crown) of the plant.
The distal end of either the shoot or root is the farthest
from the stem-root junction of the plant.
Generally in terms of their sensitivity for polarity, stem
cuttings are more sensitive than root cuttings and root
cuttings are more sensitive than leaf cuttings.
Therefore it is necessary to maintain the correct
polarity of cuttings during planting.
Most of the time there is a difficulty in identifying the
polarity of root cuttings.
To avoid planting upside down, the proximal end (nearest the
crown of the plant) may be made with a straight cut and the
distal end (away from a crown) with a slanting cut.
The proximal end of root piece should always be up.
Insert cuttings vertically so that the top is at above a soil level.
Cuttings may also planted horizontally 2.5 to 5 cm deep to
avoid the possibility of planting upside down.
Factors Affecting Regeneration of Plants from Cutting
Water content of cuttings
Carbohydrate content of cuttings
Mineral content
Girdling
Age of the stock plant
Type of wood selected
Time of year
Presence of virus
Treatment of cuttings
Growth regulators (plant hormones)
Treating the proximal end of cuttings using root promoting
plant hormones induce adventitious root formation.
Particularly auxin hormones like IBA, NAA, and IAA are
widely used root inducing growth regulators.
Fungicide treatment
Lose of cuttings in propagation unit due to fungal diseases is
Hence treating cuttings before planting using appropriate
type of fungicide is very important to avoid occurrence of
fungal diseases on cuttings.
Wounding
Wounding refers making of a wound on the proximal end
of cuttings before planting.
Wounded tissues are stimulated into cell division and
production of root.
Wounded tissues probably absorb more growth regulators
during treatment of cuttings and more water from the
medium than unwounded tissue.
[Link]
Layering induces adventitious roots formation on stems
while they are still attached to the parent plant.
The process of layering can be thought of as rooting a
stem cutting while the cutting is still attached to the
parent plant.
Layering can occur naturally through low growing
branches which root when in contact with the soil or can
be induced artificially by burying stems with soil or
Types of Layering
[Link] layering, shoot apices are bent into the
ground, root, and finally grow up-ward.
[Link] layering involves mounding the medium
around the base of a multi-stem plant to induce
root development at the base of the stems.
[Link] layering occurs when the stems are
bent to the ground and part of the stem is covered
with medium but the shoot tip remains uncovered.
4. Trench layering, the entire branch is bent over
and laid flat on the bottom of a trench 8 to 23 cm
deep.
The plant is then covered with medium and axillary
shoots root and grow upward through the medium.
5. Air layering, a moistened medium such as
sphagnum moss peat is wrapped around a
wounded area on the stem and covered with plastic
or some other type of water-retentive wrap.
6. Serpentine Layering, Similar to trench layering
except that individual nodes are covered with
media.
there is an alteration where every second node is
covered .
Most effective with plats that have flexible wood
Note, Due to the labor-intensive nature of layering
and the large amount of space needed for both the
stock plant and layers, layering is rarely done on a
commercial scale in floriculture.
[Link]
Grafting is a horticultural technique used to join
parts from two or more plants so that they appear
to grow as a single plant.
The upper part (scion) of one plant grows on the
root system (rootstock) of another plant
Its reasonably done between closely related plants
Most often the limits of success are with other spp,
in the same genus, though in some cases plants in
different but closely related genera can graft
successfully.
Reasons for grafting
propagate species or cultivars which cannot be
propagated by other methods,
enhance vigor, or
create a unique plant with improved characteristics
compared with the individual plants.
For example, hybrid tea roses (Rosa hybrid) often grow
poorly on their own roots but
grow better when grafted onto the roots of a vigorous
rootstock, which may have inferior flowers.
Perpetuating clones that cannot be readily propagated
by cutting, layers, division or other asexual methods.
Obtaining the benefits of certain rootstocks
Changing cultivars of established plants (top working)
Reduction in juvenility & Precocity in bearing
Repairing the damaged parts of trees
To shorten the time between breeding cycles.
Graft incompatibility: is failure of two plant parts to form a
successful union.
Elements for successful grafting
The rootstock and scion must be compatible.
The vascular cambium of the scion must be placed in
intimate contact with that of the rootstock.
The grafting operation must be done at a time when the
rootstock and scion are in the proper physiological stage.
Proper care must be given to the grafts for some period of
Unfortunately, grafting has limitations.
The more close the two plants botanically, the more
likely the graft will be successful.
Grafting is most successful when both plants are of
the same species.
Grafting between different species of the same
genus is also likely to be successful but not
Grafting Techniques:
[Link]-and-Tongue Graft
It is the most commonly used to graft nursery crops or
ornamentals.
Both the rootstock and scion should be of equal size and
preferably no more than 1/2 inch in diameter. It is usually used
for grafting relatively small material about 6 to 13 mm in
diameter.
It is highly successful if done properly because there is a
considerable vascular cambium contact.
The scion contains two or three buds with the graft
made in the smooth internode area below the lower
bud.
The same slanting cut of the same length and angle is
made in top of the root stock & bottom-of the scion.
On each of these cut surfaces, a reverse cut is made.
It should be about ½ the length of the first cut.
The rootstock and scion are then inserted into
each other, with the tongues interlocking.
It is extremely important that the vascular
cambium layer match along at least one side,
preferably along both sides.
After the scion and rootstock are fitted together,
they are securely held by tying with budding
rubber strips, plastic (poly/budding) grafting tape.
2. Splice Graft
It is the same as the whip-and-tongue graft, except that the
second, or “tongue,” cut is not made in either rootstock or
scion.
The same slanting cut of the same length and angle is made in
either the rootstock or scion.
These are placed together and wrapped or tied .
The splice graft is particularly useful in grafting plants that
have a very pithy stem or that have a wood that is not flexible
enough to permit a tight fit when a tongue is made as in the
whip-and-tongue graft.
Splice graft is simple and easy to make.
3. Cleft Graft (Split graft)
The cleft or split graft is one of the oldest methods of
field grafting.
It is used to top working trees, either in the trunk of a
small tree or in the branches of large trees.
Although cleft grating can be done anytime during the
dormant season, the chance for successful healing of
the graft union are best if the work is done in early
spring just when the buds of the rootstock are
beginning to swell, but before active growth started.
In sawing off the branch for this and other top
working methods, the cut should be made at
right angles to the main axis of the branch.
In making the cleft graft, a heavy knife, such as
butcher knife is used to make a vertical split for
a distance of 5 to 8cm down a center of the
stub to be grafted.
Two scions are inserted.
One of each side of the stock where vascular
cambium layer is located.
The scions should be 8 to 10cm in thickness, and
should have two or three buds.
The basal end of each scion should be cut into a gently
sloping wedge about 5cm long.
Thorough waxing of the completed graft is essential.
4. Bark Graft (Rind Graft)
Bark grafting is done in top working established plants.
The rootstock must be in active stage of growth so that the
bark will slip.
The scion is inserted between the bark and wood of the
rootstock.
Bark grafting can be performed on branches ranging from
2.5cm up to 30cm or move in diameter.
Scions must be collected during the dormant season and held
under refrigeration.
5. Approach Graft
The distinguishing feature of approach grafting is that two
independent, self-sustaining plants are grafted together.
After a union is occur a top of rootstock plant is removed above
the graft and the base of scion plant is removed below the graft.
This type of grafting should be done at times of the year when
growth is active and rapid healing of the graft union will take
place.
Approach grafting provides a means of establishing a graft union
between certain plants in which successful graft unions are
6. Inarching
Inarching is similar to approach grafting in that both rootstock
and scion plants are on its own roots at time of grafting.
It differs in that the top of the rootstock plant usually does not
extend above the point of graft union as it does in approach
grafting.
Inarching is used to replace roots damaged by cultivation
equipment, rodents, or diseases.
It can be used to very good advantage in saving a valuable tree
or improving its root system.
[Link] Grafting
Bridge grafting is another form of repair grafting used when there
is injury to the trunk,
If the damage to the bark is extensive, the tree is almost certain to
die, because the roots will be deprived of their carbohydrate supply
from the top of the tree.
Bridge grafting is best performed as active growth of the tree is
beginning and the bark is slipping easily.
The scion should be obtained when dormant; one-year-old growth.
After all the scions have been inserted, the cut surfaces must be
thoroughly covered with grafting wax, particularly care being taken
to work the wax around the scions, especially at graft unions.
[Link]
In contrast to grafting, in which the scion consists of a short
detached piece of stem tissue with several buds,
budding utilizes only one bud and a small section of bark,
with or without wood.
Budding is often termed as “bud grafting” since the
physiological processes involved are the same as in grafting.
Budding may result in a stronger union, particularly during
the first few years, than grafting, and thus the shoots are
not as likely to blow out in strong winds.
Budding makes more economical use of propagating
wood than grafting, each bud potentially being capable
of producing a new plant.
This may be quite important if propagating wood is
scarce.
In addition, the techniques involved in budding are
simple and can be performed easily by amateur.
In budding it is important to use vegetative rather than
flower buds.
Rootstocks for Budding
It should have the desired characteristics of vigor
growth habit, healthy and resistance to soil-born
pests, as well as being easily propagated.
This rootstock plant may be a rooted cutting, a
rooted layer, or more commonly, a seedling (I.e. a
rootstock developed from seed).
Usually, seedlings nursed for one year are
sufficient to produce a rootstock that is large
enough to be budded.
Techniques of budding
1 T-budding (shield budding): T-budding is the most
common method of budding and is widely used by
nurserymen in propagating nursery stock of most fruit
tree species, roses, and ornamental shrubs.
A technique involving a T- shaped cut in the rootstock with
the scion consisting of a single bud.
It use is limited to stocks that are about 6-25 mm in
diameter, and are actively growing so that the bark will
The bud is inserted into the stock 5-25 cm above the
soil level in a smooth bark surface.
It is advisable to place the bud against the wind ward
side.
When rows of closely planted rootstocks are budded, it
is more convenient to have all the buds on the same
side for later inspection and manipulations.
2. Inverted T- budding
In rainy localities, water running down the stem of the
rootstock may enter the T-cut, soak under the bark, and
prevent the shield piece from healing into place.
Under such conditions an inverted T-bud may give better
results, since it is more likely to shed excess water.
In species that bleed badly during budding, the inverted T-
bud allows better drainage and better healing.
3. Patch budding
a rectangular patch of bark is removed completely from the
bark of the stock and replaced with a patch of bark of the
same size containing a bud of the cultivar to be propagated.
It requires that the bark of both the stock and bud- stick be
slipping easily.
Patch budding is somewhat slower and more difficult to
perform than T-budding, but it is widely and successfully
used on thick-barked species.
4.I - budding
In I-budding the bud patch is cut just as for patch
budding, that is, in the form of a rectangle or square.
Then, with parallel bladed knife (the same as for patch
budding), two transverse cuts are made through the
bark of the stock.
These are joined at their centers by a single vertical
cut to produce the figure I.
The two flaps of bark can then be raised for insertion
of the bud patch beneath them.
I-budding should be considered for use when the bark
of the stock is much thicker than that of the bud stick.
[Link] budding
Chip budding can be used at times when the bark is not
slipping, that is, before growth starts or when active growth
has stopped prematurely owing to lack of water or some
other cause.
Chip budding is really a form of grafting, a variation of the
side-veneer graft, with the scion reduced to a small piece of
wood containing only a single bud.
Chip budding is widely used in propagating grapes on
nematode resistant rootstock.
In chip budding, as in the other methods, the stock is not cut
back above the bud until the union is complete.
[Link] by Specialized Stems and Roots
General information
Bulbs, Corms, Tubers, Rhizomes, are specialized
vegetative structures that function primarily in the
storage of food for the plant’s survival during adverse
environmental time.
Plants possessing these modified plant parts are
generally herbaceous perennials in which the shoots
die down at the end of the growing season, and
the plant survives in the ground as a dormant, fleshy
These specialized organs also function in vegetative
propagation.
The propagation procedure that utilizes the
production of naturally detachable structures, such as
the bulb and corm, is generally spoken of as
separation.
In cases in which the plant is cut into sections, as is
done with the rhizome, stem tuber, and tuberous root,
[Link]
Micropropagation is the development of new plants on
an artificial medium under aseptic conditions from very
small pieces of plants, such as embryos, seeds, stems,
shoot tips, root tips, callus, single cells and pollen
grains.
“Micro-or in vitro propagation offers the potential to
produce a virtually unlimited number of identical plants
from one original plant.
In practice, however, in-vitro propagation is often
elaborate, time consuming, and expensive.
Regardless, numerous plant species including,
Alstroemeria, hybrid lilies (Lilium) Gerbera, orchids
(Orchidaceae), and numerous foliage plant species are
commercially propagated through micropropagation.
Micropropagation is especially important in the production
of disease-free stock plants, such as with geraniums
(Pelargonium) and carnations (Dianthus caryophyllus).
Chapter 4: Landscaping