Showing posts with label challenge. Show all posts
Showing posts with label challenge. Show all posts

Tuesday, 13 September 2016

E3D Scaffold - soluble support material testing and 3D Printing model challenge

Testing out Scaffold - Soluble Support Material from E3D.

The team at E3D recently sent me some production reels of Scaffold, the soluble support material for desktop 3D Printing. It's now almost released and should be available soon on the E3D website

I'm testing it out and also seeing what's been changed from the Beta release earlier in the year.

Sanjay at E3D said it has had a few modifications to the viscosity and also compatibility with materials. It's tuned to work well with Edge (PET based) and Nylon materials, but will also work with PLA and ABS.

I proposed a scaffold challenge in the video below, and E3D responded. They have kindly offered some £40 discount vouchers for their webshop as a prize for the most interesting or challenging ideas.


If you have a 3D model that you believe would challenge Scaffold (it's mostly aimed as a dissoluble support material) but can also work well as peal-away support, then let me know in the comments below, over on YouTube or on Twitter @Richrap3d

Also feel free to tell me of your experience with using support material - either using the same material or as a dual extruder setup with a secondary material as support.

Give me some time and I will report back with success or failure and hopefully some print advice or tips for using Scaffold in different 3D Printers.

I'm going to also test it out with some models I have struggled to 3D Print over the years, I'll try to do that on a selection of printers, nozzles and extruders too.

A really good support material is still a major goal for desktop 3D Printers, so it's exciting when a new product becomes available, I'll be sure to let you know how I get on. Maybe this is the one?

I'm already seeing some really great suggestions, thank you for posting - One that really jumped out was a collection of Knots gathered up by Richard Caunt - Very Knotty can be found here.

And if you want to see what a pain removal of support material can be - then take a look at this recent update post and video on printing the Steampunk Octopus.

Thanks for reading, I'll be back soon with more 3D printing.

Rich.

Twitter - @Richrap3d
Google+ - RichardHorne_RichRap3D
YouTube Channel RichRap

Thursday, 7 June 2012

Half a Ball of Stars - Support structures #30DoC day 6

For Day 6 of  30 days of creativity ( #30DoC ) I'm having a rest from designing things, but I wanted to give my printer a challenging print while I worked.


A few weeks ago I did a quick test print of the Ball of Stars Created by @Dizingof
I used basic support structure and low-grade PLA just to test it out.

I have been meaning to print another one, much bigger and with full support structure. Today I set it off to print while I worked. It would have been a 17+ hour print, but 9 hours into it, at about half way it shifted on the Y axis, probably due to the head catching on the massive structure with the rather high acceleration settings I use on MendelMax.


Some of the support removed.

You can see that about 40% into the build the Y axis shifted, so when I came home I stopped the print.

Before removing support - This is what it looked like after 9 hours of printing (the half a ball of stars is inside there somewhere!)

This was my first test print a few weeks back, I didn't clean all the support structure off, and it had some unsupported areas, this was sliced with Skeinforge V46 using external support structure at >60 degrees overhang giving me some sections that sagged when they printed in free space.

For the new print today, I made it 150mm wide and enabled support everywhere, as you can see from the above Visual Gcode (Repetier Host) it was a real monster! Skeinforge had to slice for almost 2 hours to output the Gcode for it.

In hindsight a little too ambitious and I should have slowed down the travel moves and enabled Z Lift (Hop) I think it would have printed OK if I had done that.

Doing the same model in Slic3r with support enabled only gives a support column in the centre of the model, so I could not use Slic3r for this print unfortunately, a real shame as it slices in just 8 mins.

It is fun watching these things print.

And it used a fair bit of PLA.

Removal of the support structure is quite easy, but takes a little time.

It needs a little more support removed, but I'm quite happy with how it came out, and it would have looked really good as a complete model and not for the Y Axis Shift.

My proposed new settings for a future print attempt -
I have sliced it again and this time enabled Z lift (Hop) and used Exterior Only support with a 45 Degree minimum support angle, this should give me some support on almost everything, but not cover the entire model.
These are my support settings shown above, if anyone can give any advice to improve these, do get in touch or leave a comment, I hardly ever use support, so could do with any pointers you have.

It still looks like a lot of material, but compare the Gcode image below with the failed print above -

Fingers crossed, it should print well next time, and have a lot less support material to remove.

I'll give it another try soon and give an update.

Thanks for reading,

Cheers,

Rich.

Saturday, 2 June 2012

Herringbone Gear set for Huxley Extruders #30DoC Day 2

Day 2 of 30 days of creativity month brings an update for my eMaker Huxley printer, it's only ever had normal gears, and I have been using Herringbone gears on all my other extruder's.


The Huxley extruder uses a Nema14 motor and smaller gear spacing than a normal Wade/Greg Extruder.
It's also using an M6 hobbed bolt.


I have used the same great SCAD script from Triffid Hunter to make a drop-in replacement for Huxley sized extruder's.


I didn't have a lot of time to optimise the hole spacing perfectly, so it is a little tricky to fit, but well worth the effort. Take your time and get the motor aligned first, fix the motor tightly, then tighten the hobbed bolt onto the large gear, fit washers and bearing and slide both the large motor into the body and at the same time the smaller gear onto the motor shaft, tighten up the smaller gear to the motor shaft.


They print very well with a 0.5mm or smaller nozzle, use one outline and >30% infill.

All the files are up on Thingiverse here

Enjoy perfect printing with Huxley.

More tomorrow.

Rich.

Friday, 1 June 2012

#30DoC Badge & simple guide to manifold 3D design

I'm starting the 30 days of creativity month with a two colour #30DoC printed 3D badge designed in Sketchup and printed on a RepRap 3D printer.


If you are new to 3D printing, take a look at my Blog and on the RepRap Wiki pages.
If you want to explore the sorts of things you can print with a 3D printer, take a look at Thingiverse

Here is how it was designed and printed -
Open up Sketchup and import a picture you wish to trace or use for inspiration (File-import - Jpg)

Go to 'View' menu bar face-style and select X-ray, this will allow you to see the picture below any 3D objects you place over the image, you can trace around things or align parts to the image.

You can now draw circles and add text, push-pull the various sections to make the model.

With this badge it's going to be printed face down so the text and the X are pushed into the face, allowing for the second colour layer to be seen from the front.

We need to draw and add a simple safety pin clip holder on the back - we will insert the clip while printing!

Export 3D model, slice it and print it out, starting with yellow plastic.

After about 7 layers or while it's still doing the last of the text outlines, switch over to Black plastic.

Let it print the rest of the back and get ready to pause printing when it has done some of the clip.

After is has printed half of the clip when it has a channel, pause the printer while it's doing an infill and insert a  safety pin into the channel and tape it in place. Resume printing

The pin will be trapped and after it's cooled down you can wear your badge with pride, and it's bound to bring creative inspiration for the rest of the month.

The 3D file is up on Thingiverse here, along with the Sketchup model, go print one out!


A very simple guide to making models that are manifold (valid) for 3D printing -  
While I was making the badge in Sketchup I had some of the usual errors you get when joining sections of modelled parts together (the text onto the badge face), so as a guide and tutorial here are a few notes about how to make a simple 'manifold' object for 3D printing.

Background - 
Objects for 3D printing are usually .STL files, the information in a STL file describes the 'mesh' of the model using points and faces, basically made up of lots of triangles joined together describe the surface and contours of the model.
Typical model 'mesh'

Unlike a photo with a set maximum resolution, you can print a 3D model at any size you like, the triangles just get bigger, so you don't gain or loose detail and with most current fused filament 3D printers, if you enlarge a good model you will see more features being printed that were not possible with a smaller size due to the nature of the filament printing process.

This means that the model has a 'Quality' depending on number of triangles describing the surface, I will go further into model quality in another post shortly, but a basic example is shown below -
Top model uses many triangles and can be considered high resolution, middle is half the quality of the top and the bottom is a quarter of the quality / resolution.

Back to valid meshes - 
If the mesh is valid and said to be 'manifold' is will have a surface without any defects, these can be holes in the faces, triangles that intersect each other, faces that share the same plane and other odd things like triangles or objects inside other complete meshes that basically make the object invalid.

If a 3D mesh has a problem, it's usually called a 'non-manifold' model, these can be repaired using programs like Netfabb but when designing 3D objects to be printed it's best to try and find and fix problems in the source rather than attempt to repair them later.

Many 3D modelling programs will allow you to join (union) objects together, (the basic free Sketchup does not let you do that automatically) programs like Autocad123D should make a valid mesh out of the two objects, and all you may need to do is remove the part of the object that was not part of the union. But it's always good to be aware of potential issues with 3D.

Example with two cubes - 
Step 1
We start with two cubes both are components to make it easier to move them together and so they won;t interact unless you want them too.

Step 2
The two cubes have been pushed together, this has made a non-manifold mesh, the cube faces are intersecting each other, so this would not print as you woudl expect from the above image.

Step 3
If you delete the front face you can see the problem.

Step 4
To fix the problem we are going to draw lines around the cube on the surface of where they meet, the red section inside the box is now the problem, but as we have just isolated it, by drawing the lines around the meeting point we can now remove it.

Step 5
After deleting the red cube, you still have a face inside from the dark grey cube, you need to delete that next.

Step 6
 Now you have a hollow mesh of the two cubes, this is almost a valid object, you just need to replace the front face by drawing a line down one side and it's done.

All finished



You can get the sketchup file on the thingiverse page Here


Thanks for looking, and see you for more #30DoC tomorrow.

Rich.

Monday, 14 November 2011

Thing-a-Day-Part2 - The Tricky stuff...

Part 2 of my Thing-A-Day quest - These get progressively more complicated and tricky.




Firstly one of my most favourite objects ever, and modelled so very well by tc_fea - the great Nautilus Shell 
I always planned to print a full shell so I simply scaled this print and made a mirror image for the other side.



I used the1.5mm version and scaled it by 2.5X so the shell walls ended up about 4mm think, good for support, but made this a long print (about 3 hours). My files for both larger halves can be found here.


For a test, I printed one half with the external fan and the other without, it didn't make a huge difference to the outside surface with this print, but the final overhang section was much better internally when using the fan.





Then I could put if off no longer, I had to print the Purple Tentacle! by Bluemetal but I wanted it bigger, so my version is sliced in two, scaled and printed BIG. 
This used the fan to blow gently across the hollow print
He is also filled with some beads and makes a great sound.

After the Tentacle came the Hollow Halloween Pumpkin by Kaetemi printed as a challenge in our local reprap meetup in October.
This was printed with just 1% infill for speed and an experiment to see if 1% works. Using a small fan blowing across it printed reasonably well and the low infill % had a nice side effect of glowing with a light on the base.

It has a fault line on the lower half, this was where the orange filament ran out and I had to run across the room and stuff in more without stopping.

After printing the original I uploaded a mega pumpkin challenge (maybe for next year) you may need a whole team to print it all. Please let me know if you attempt it!


Next I wanted to try something really complicated, so I was searching Thingiverse for organic shapes and 'tricky' things, I found a few Brians and selected this one as it looked most detailed and complete.

Human Brain by jmil


I sliced it in half so I could get a nice flat surface and also so it would fit on the machine, this was the most complicated thing my machine has printed so far.

Base of the brain.

Top of the brain.

Skeinforge spent many hours slicing the model and at just 8% infill each half took over 9 hours to print. It has so much detail, much you can't see as it's deep in the folds and cavities, no picture can do this one justice, but here it is assembled -The Gcode for each half is around 30MB, (using small Gcode output) that's a LOT of machine moves!


That's the closest I ever want to get to a real brain.
It even looks a little wet and 'brainie' with a close-up.
I love the fact it was imaged by MRI slicing and then assembled into a highly detailed 3D object, and we print it in slices again on a 3D printer. I can't imagine any other fabrication method could make this object as well as a 3D printer.

So after all that printing I has a special request for  'Holly' Magic Wand from my little girl, the files can be found on Thingiverse Here  'Holly' magic star wand - pencil topper by RichRap


The design spec - 
Daddy, Can you make me a 'holly wand'? and I want it to tinkle, and glow and look really nice, and be Purple and Pink. Thanks.




The design was done in Sketchup, some are glow-in-the dark, some have clear backs so you can see the internal letter and some are filled for a mix of glowing, rattling/tinkling joy. - this should be a perfect stocking filler, so get printing now!







Filled with stars, slices of filament or Hama Beads.


Bonus Print - (For Halloween). Glow-by-Night
A monster GLOW-IN-THE-DARK spider - based on the printing plates by MakerBlock
My version was scaled up to just under 2 x the normal size.

Lots of Glow!
Quite a few parts to this spider

And he is really BIG!



And a video showing some of the prints (Hi-Def here on Youtube) or below - 


I really enjoyed doing Thing-A-Day, and I found out new things and new print effects.

There is a little more to this story but I'll save that for another day and another post.

I printed all the things in Thing-A-Day without a single change to my filament size in Skeinforge due to the Faberdashery PLA I'm using being so well dimensionally controlled, I never need to think, is it different? If you swap over filament colours quite a lot and want to use the same Gcode then having the same filament dimensions from batch to batch and order to order is really quite important. I can't recommend this stuff highly enough, it's excellent.


I now have loads more things on my list to print for the future, here is a small collection that caught my eye as I was browsing thingiverse last month, take a look at these below for inspiration and wonderment - 


spinnyJiggyVase by mannytan - Looks insane, one I'll want to watch printing.

Maraca Traditional - 2 Piece by beekeeper - useful and fun.

The OpenSCAD Pirate Ship by MakerBlock  - print without support?

Mechanical Animals by sconine - these are just great on so many levels.

Jack in the box by Sublime - this is looking great, must print some of these with various things inside.

Spiral Lightbulb Sculpture by benglish - must try this without support.

Devilhead 2.0 by yzorg - Wow! Print blood red or Glow-in-the-dark

And when I get my build height back, plenty more of the excelent basic receptacles by MakeALot


Do have some fun with your printer.

Thanks for reading, until next time.

Rich.