Light in the Dark: Las Vegas’ Nostalgic Heart and Future Lifeline

Fremont Street in Las Vegas has always been more than just another downtown thoroughfare. Back in May 1905, William Clark auctioned off the land that would form the city’s core and soon after came the first casino, the first telephone line, and, in 1925, the first paved street in Las Vegas. By mid-century, its neon glow had earned it the nickname ‘Glitter Gulch’.

The modern incarnation of the Fremont Street Experience took shape in the 1990s, as downtown sought to reclaim its relevance against the booming Las Vegas Strip. Part funded by the city authorities, casino owners and the Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority, construction began in September 1994 and by December 1995 the five-block pedestrian mall was unveiled.

At its heart was a massive canopy, the Viva Vision screen, which switched off the neon lights each night for synchronised sound and light shows. 

Three decades later, the gamble has paid off. Today the Fremont Street Experience stretches nearly a mile and features at 12,000 sq m the world’s largest video screen, lit by nearly 50 million LEDs and with high-definition shows that run nightly.

Vintage casinos such as the Golden Gate and Binion’s still attract gamblers, nearby attractions like the Mob Museum and Neon Museum draw those interested in the city’s cultural roots, while live bands perform free on outdoor stages.

With room rates and resort fees skyrocketing elsewhere in Las Vegas, downtown offers what the strip increasingly does not, value, and Fremont Street Experience President and CEO Andrew Simon recently pointed out that visitor numbers downtown are actually rising in contrast to the city as a whole. 

Recent figures paint a sobering picture for the city overall. In July, about 3.1 million visitors came to Las Vegas, a 12% drop compared with the same month a year earlier. It marked the sixth consecutive month of decline. Across the first half of 2025, total visits are down around 7%, with occupancy rates hovering below 67% at major properties. 

Catching up with retail specialist and Las Vegas resident Linda Johansen-James, the IR Magazine Publisher describes the situation in the city as “complicated”.

“On one hand, the Strip feels slower than it has in years — hotel occupancy is down, international visitors are pulling back, and you can see it in the empty lobbies, lighter convention calendars, and even in the way service workers quietly admit their tips have been cut in half. On the other hand, downtown’s Fremont Street Experience seems to be defying the odds and still pulsing with life,” she said.

She believes that Fremont has defied the more general it delivers authentic Las Vegas energy without the sky-high price tag, highlighting the free Downtown Rocks concert series, the Viva Vision canopy shows and the fact that visitors can walk easily from one bar or casino to another.

“Let’s not sugarcoat it, Las Vegas is facing real challenges. The reason visitors are pulling back isn’t a mystery. From $9 coffees to rising resort fees and pricey entertainment, many travellers feel Las Vegas has lost its affordability. Combine that with political and economic headwinds and you get a city struggling to hold onto its historic momentum,” she added. “Fremont Street is the exception that proves the rule. Downtown has figured out how to keep the magic alive by leaning into value, free entertainment and a sense of community. And if the rest of Las Vegas doesn’t find a way to rebalance soon, Fremont might not just be the city’s nostalgic heart — it could be its future lifeline.”