,l A Classrc /a /| Coururny TTHurcn

Crown molding, dovetailed drawers,glassand paneled doors: This dream project has it all.

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Make a masterfully crafted glassdoor using a matched set of router bits.

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Ouesrorl & Aruswen Wonrsnop Trps Toot- Telr: Trps ron Usrrrrc Epoxv
Mooenru CRerruerM.A,KER: 7 Dnuv-Saruorruc Trps Weu--EourPPED Snop Svrall Snop Trps Oops!

Tool Tesr: ReruoovrOneff

Seruoens
Some are best at roughing, others at finishing. Which are which?

SusscnrPTroNS
American Woodworker Subscriber ServiceDept., (800) PO.Box81t18, RedOak,lA 51591-11/|8, 66G3111, e-mai I AlVWservice @rd.com Article Index A complete indexis available onlineat wwwa merica nwoodworker.com Gopiesof PastArticles Photocopies for $3 eadr.Writeor call: are available American Woodworker Reprint Center, PO.Box 83695,Stil lwater,MN 55083-0695, 151 246-43M, 17 8 a.m.to 5 p.m. CST Mon.througfrFri.ViFa, MasterCard, Discover and AmericanExpress accepted. Back lssus Someareavailable for $6 eadr.Orderfrom the Reprint Center at the address above. Comments& Suggestions Writeto us at American Woodworker, 2915Commers Dr.,Suite700,Eagan, MN 55121, (651)454-9200, fax (651)994-2250, e-inailaweditor@ readersdigest.com

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Want your heirloom quilt to look fantastic? Light it from above.

American Woodworker

JULY 2oos

YoI.rRE

ITIOUS.
you are a do-itWhether yourselfer, a professional orsomewhere woodworker you a world in between, have projects inthehome fullof willbe that or intheshop to more enjoyable easier and qualyouuse when complete vises and bench ityclamps, the from miter boxes/saws Company. Clamp Adjustable the under forthem Look and Adjustable Jorgensen, wherever names brand Pony sold. fine tools are
Subscriptionquestions?Seepage1.
Editor Managing Editor Senior Editor Associate Editors Tools and Products Editor ' Contributing Editor Design Director Art Directors Graphic Design Intern Copy Editor Fact Checking Specialists Production Offi ce Administrative Manager Artist Manager I(en Collier RandyJobnson Tom Caspar TimJohsn Dave Munkittrick George Vondriska Jon Sturmbras Sara Koehler Patrick Hrmter VernJohnson Picft Dupre Jean Cook. Jennifer Feist Nina ChildsJohnson Judy Rodriguez LisaPahl Knecht Alice Garrett Shannon Hooge Roxie trilipkorvski Lori Callister ShellyJacobsen

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Publisher Associate Publisher National Sales Manager Business Manager Financial Analyst Promotion Manager Promotion Coordinator Marketing Coordinator Advertising Coordinator ResearchManager

JimSchiekofer Rick Straface James Ford Mike Frantino Carrie Litos AndreaVecchio Joanne No6 Derrick Phillip Barbara Berezor+ski GeorgiaSorensen

Circle No. 1

ADVERTISING SALES 260 Madison Ave, New Yorh IW I 00 I 6; (21 2) 8tu7 226 CHICAGO Carl Benson (312) 54M802, Brian Condron (312) 54G4805 James Ford (3f2) 54M804 Sherry Mallit (sales assistant) (312) 54M824 Oda (206) 2824002 WESTCOASTBonnie Cox (212) 850.7011, NEWYORKlktie David Clutter (212) 8bU7124, Ttrck Sifers (212) 85oi197' Ed Silhan, NewYork Manager, (212) 85G7041 Classified Advertising, The McNeill Group, lnc. Classified Manager, Don Serfass (215) 321-9662, exr 30 PUBLISHED BY HOME SERVICE PUBLICATIONS, INC., A SUBSIDIARY OF THE READER'S DIGEST ASSOCIATION, INC.

chief Executi9lffi33;
Vice President. General Manaser. North Americair Publishing Grbup Worldwide Circulation Director

o. Ryder Thomas
Bornie Bachar

John Kingel

\
Circulation

Vice President and Circulation Director, U.S. Magazine Group Vice President. Circulation/Operation6 Marketing Director

Danm Zer Renee Jordan Lou Sassano

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Issue #115. American Woodworker@, ISSN 10749152, USPS 73&7f0 Published bimonthly, except monthly October and November by Home Service Publications, Inc., 260 Madison Avenue, 5th Floor, NewYork, NY 10016. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send change of address notice to American Woodworker@, P.O. Box 8148, Red Oak, IA 5159f-1148. Subscription rates: U.S. one-ye:u, $24.98. Singlecopy, $5.99. Canada oneyear, $29.98 (U.S. Funds); GST # R122988611. Foreign surface one-year, $29.98 (U.S. Funds). U.S. newsstand distribution by Hearst Distribution Group, NewYork, NY 10019. In Canada: Postage paid at Gateway, Mississauga, Ontario; CPM# f447866. Send retums and address changes to American Woodworker@, P.O. Box 8148, Red Oak, IA, USA 51591-1148. Printed in US,A-@ 2005 Home Service Publications, Inc. All righs reserved. Reader's Digest may share information about you with reputable companies in order for them o offeryou products and srvices of interst to you, If you would rather we not share information, please write to us ac Reader's Digest Association, American Woodworker, Cusomer Service Departrnent, P.O. Box 8148, Red Oalq IA 51591. Please include a copy ofyour address label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. American Woodworker JULY 2oo5

Oun coI-oR

SUPERIORITY
IS CLEAR

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ULTRACLEAR.
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I ULTRA-Cr-enn Sove Orl ] To give you stain colorsthat are clear and true, Varathane Premium Wood stains are madewith ultra-clear soya oil instead of linseed oil. Soyaoil helpsthe premium pigments penetratedeeper,revealingthe wood's naturalbeauty. Maybethat's why Varathane's colors are the clear choice, preferredmore than 2 to I over those of Minwax@ WoodFinish'". Try one of Varathane's exclusive trial sizepacketsto help you find the perfectcolor for your project. Check out www.woodanswers.com today f o r e x p e r t a d v i c ea n d h e l p f u lh i n t s f o r all your wood finishing proiects.

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Minwaf is a registered tEdrnark of the Shgwin 'Source: Williams Company. Preference Tst of the Vamthane lim versusthe Minwaxn Lineof Interior V,bod Stains.Mav, l@3

R e p a r nA S n r u o - T H R o u c H
I w e n t r i g h t t h r o u g h t h e v e n e e r w h e n I w as sandi ng sol i d-w ood e d g i n g fl u s h o n s o me p l y w o od shel ves. H ow can I fi x i t?

Sanding through a veneer happens to everyone sooner or later. Here's an old cabinetmaker's trick that will salvage what looks to be a hopeless situation. First, remove the damaged veneer using a router and a straight cutting bit (see photo, below left). Then, select a piece of hardwood whose color and grain resemble those of your veneer stock and cut a strip to fit the sroove (see photo, below right). Veneer seems to be getting thinner every day. To avoid ftrttrre sand-throughs, make a squiggly line with a pencil along the hardwood-veneer joint. It will help you keep track of how mtrch material you're removing. For more sanding tips, see AW #110, October 2004, page 53.

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groove wide enough to remove the sandGut a 1/8-in.-deep t h r o u g h a r e a .U s e a s t r a i g h te d g e t o g u i d e t h e r o u t e r .C u t t h e g r o o v ea l o n g t h e f u l l l e n g t ho f t h e c a b i n e ts i d e o r s h e l f .

Glue a strip of hardwood into the groove.Thestrip should be just a hair thickerthan the groove is deep,so it can be carefullysandeddown flush.

American Woodworker

JULY 2oos

NEw BnTDSAW TrnEs

My bandsaw has developed tra c k i n g p ro b lem s t o t h e p o i n t th a t th e blade won' t s ta y o n th e w h e e l . I checkedeverything and can't seem going t o c lear up th e p ro b l e m .Wh a t' s on her e?
Since these problems developed over time, I suggest you check your tires. The tires on your bandsaw provide traction for the blade and, like the tires on your car, they wear out and the rubber degrades with time. A new set of tires will likely put your saw back on track. "Obvious signs of worn tires are cracks and tears," explains Peter Perez, president of Carter Products Inc., a bandsaw accessory manufacturer. "A good wear test is to sink a fingernail into the tire. A good tire will rebound with no visible mark on it. If your fingernail leaves an impression, it's time to replace the tire." It's easier to replace the tires with the wheel removed from the saw. Taper the end of a dowel,
8 American Woodworker JULY 2oob

clamp it in a vise and set the wheel on it. We recommend replacing both rubber tires with urethane tires. Urethane offers two big advantages: It lasts longer and it doesn't require adhesive to install. Clamp the new tire on the wheel and stretch the tire over the rim. Urethane tires can be made more flexible by soaking them in hot water before you put them on the wheels. (888) Source Carter Products Co.Inc., 622-7831, www.carterproducts.com Carter Ultra Blue 14-in. urethane tires, 16-in. ea.; urethane tires. $23.50 $33ea.

t r r _ l - " - r xA r Gt r R a M E L E S S C a B t N E T t N - r o A C o R N E R
l p l a n t o b u i l d a n d i n s t a l lf r a m e l e s sE u r o p e a n - s t y l c e a b i n e t si n m y k i t c h e n .I k n o w h o w t o s c r i b ef a c e - f r a m ec a b i n e t st o f i t i n t o c o r n e r s b u t , f r o m w h a t l ' v e s e e n , t h e r e ' sn o t h i n g t o s c r i b e o n a f r a m e l e s sc a b i net. How'sit done? It's actrtallv plettv easr'. \{'hat \r()uckris attach:r scribeto the enclof'the czrbinet that goesinto the cornel'.f'hc scribccloes scvcraltl-rinss: It
lttoves tl-re end of-the cabinct iuvar' {l'onr ther l'all so the cloor calt opelt past 90 deqrees. It also pnx'ides a thin eclse th:rt's easv to trini for a tight fit

asainst the rvall. Finally, it sives a cabir-retnln a nice finishedIook where it meets a wall. TVpicalll', ths scribe face is nrade 1- to I-I/2 in. wide, btrt you're free to do lvhat you think looks best. Cut a rabbet on the edge of the face piece that fits asainst the wall. Trirn the rabbeted edge until it fits snugly and plumb on the wall where the cabinet will hang. Glue a screw flange onto the back of the face piece, screw the scribe to the cabinet and hang.

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If'vou have a question you'd like zrnsrvered, st-'r'rd it to us at Question & Answer, American Woodworker, 2915 Commers Drive, Suite 700, Eagan, MN 55121 or email to qanda@readersdigeslcom, Sorrr', but the volunte of rnail prevents rrs fronr ansrr'erir-rg each question inclividuallr,.

10

Arnericiur \\bocllrrr-kel

J u Ly 2oo5

12

Arnelicarr \\bodrr'olker

JULy 2oo5

Hravv-Durv Glur Scnnprn

It's best to remove glue before it hardens, but sometimes that's not possible. When I face cement-hard glue, I pull out this robust scraper to bull my way through it. The blade is l,/8-in.-thick tempered steel,as tough as a chisel. There's no chatter,becausethe tool's long body is made from heavy iron pipe. Extra weight and leverage really count! I ordered the blade through a catalog for about $8 and bought the rest of the parts from the hardware store for about $10. The pipe is a prethreaded nipple. The blade comes with a predrilled L/4_.in.hole, but I had to drill holes through a dowel and the end cap for the threaded rod. The rubber washers dampen vibration. To remove old, dried glue from the blade, I scrape it with a chisel or soak it in hot water. Tbm Caspa'r
1//2"x12"-LONG PIPE

5/9" DOWEL,
1" LONG

1.1/4" RUBBER WASHER

Source Woodworker'sSupply,(800)645-9292,www.woodworker.com #511-004, $8. Bladefor glue scraper,

1t4,,/

THREADED ROD
1.1/4''FENDER WASHER

14

American Woodworker

JULY 2oo5

Dnnw Hucr AncHES

This old boatbuilder's trick allows you to draw large arches without using a giant compass or trammel. All you have to know is the arch's height (also called its rise) and length (its run). You don't need a center point. I like the long, shallow arches on Mission furniture, so I use this method for making router templates. I prefer 1/4-in. MDF for the jig and template, but any material will do. Drive nails into the template at the center and the end of the arch. Position the jig with the hypotenuse against the end nail and the flat against the center nail. Hold a pencil in the notch and advance the jig while bearing against both nails. To complete the arch, flip thejig, move the end nail to the opposite end and repeat the process. TimJohnson

HYPOTENUSE

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M a k e a j i g b a s e do n t h e r i s e a n d r u n o f y o u r a r c h .

U s e t h e j i g t o d r a w t h e a r c h o n a r o u t e rt e m p l a t e .

Draw one side of the arch by s l i d i n gt h e i i g a g a i n s t w o n a i l s . F l i pt h e j i g o v e r t o d r a w t h e o t h e rs i d e .

American Woodworker

JULY 2oo5

17

,/ -t

Frrucr A Brrrcn JoTNTER

In our lastissue(AW #1l4,May 2005,page 16),we published a workshop tip titled "Right-Angle Guide for away to steady Jointing." In this tip, a reader suggested
a hand plane by attaching a wooden fence to its side, with the fence being held to the plane by rare earth magnets. It turns out that Lee Valley Tools makes a hand plane fence with rare earth magnets for attachment, and the idea is patented. We can't recommend that readers make their own version of a patented tool, as it may be a violation of the patent. Out of curiosiry we gave Lee Valley's Veritas Jointer Fence a test in our shop. The idea is simple enough: The fence makes it easier to plane a board's edge square to its face, which is particularly important when you're trying to joint edges for gluing. The magnets hold the fehce firmly against the plane's body, and-a nice little feature that was absent on the shop-made version-an alignment pin hooks over the side of the plane and keeps the fence from sliding out of position during use. The Veritas fence works great and, unlike traditional fences that had to be clamped or screwed on, it snaps on and off in a flash. (800) Tools, 2678761, www.leevalley.com Source LeeValley Veritas Jointer Fence. $39.50.
18 American Woodworker JULY 2oo5

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VERITAS JOINTER FENCE

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\I /ith our six stylesof cor- Shelvesare a perfect cntryof V Y belsin tendifferentwood level corbelprojectbecause types, you can make shelves their sirnplicity. It's a greatway you to build confidence as uniqueas the treasures to tacklea wishto display. larger project.
Free plans.for a .ttandard she('are available on our n^ebsiteat:

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A complete system of resin, hardeners, fillers and additives. r Choose fast or slow workingtimes r Easilymodified for gap filling r Excellentwater resistance r Good adhesionto nearlyeverything

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Call today for your free User Manualand P roduct G uide

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We all have m o m e n t sw h e n w e wish we had left t h a t t e n o nj u s t a w h i s k e rt h i c k e r . The gap-filling propertiesof epoxy make it the perfectsolution. E p o x yc a n f i l l s m a l la n d b i g g a p s and stillmaintain full bonding s t r e n g t hT . hisis s o m e t h i n gn o o t h e rg l u e o r w o o d f i l l e rc a n m a t c h .

f o r m i x i n g ,b e c a u s e the epoxy simply peelsout after it sets and the container can be reused.

22

American \4trodworker

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iig,i 1

G lug M rrnl To Wooo

bonds many kinds of Epo>ry materialsto one another,including wood, metal, fiberglass, masonry tile, concrete and plaster.lt will not, however, bond to most plastics.

TIP

sudt On anodizedmetalsurfaces, you sand off must as aluminumT-track, gluing. Epoxy doesn't the coating before stick well to anodized surfaces.

R r r u E WA S T n I P P E D ScnEW Hole
Simply fill the hole with epoxy.Whenit has cured, predrill for the screws and reinstallthehinge.Youcan also letthe epoxy cure with screws in place for a permanent attadrment. lf you want to make the screw removable,apply a coating of oil to the threads before pushing the screw into the wet epoxy. On a vertical surface, it's nice to have an epoxy that won't run. Gel epoxy is the perfectchoice.lt has a consistencysimilar to that of petroleum jelly.Youcan even make TIP your own gel epoxy by adding a thickener.

Mercr AN Epoxv lrulav

Rout a 1/8-in.x 1/8-in.groove and mask around it with tape. Mix a batch of slow-setting epoxy and add a colorant. Powder tempera paint works well. Add thickener(see Sources,page 26) until the epoxy is the consistencyof petroleum jelly. Apply enough epoxy to the groove so it sits slightly above the surface of the wood. After the epoxy sets but is still slightly soft, remove the tape.When the epoxy has fully cured, sand it level.

American Woodworker

JULY 2oos

25

26

American Woodworker

JULv 2oos

Tips for Better Drum Sandirg

f you hate sanding (and rvho cloesn't?), a clnrrrr sander can ber a qoclst'nd..Jrrstf'eed irr v()rlr bozrlds, or even crlrnpletecl cloors ancl other projecls, atrcl otrt they corne, perfectlv szrndcd, flat ancl srnooLh. An<l for a rn<lclern cabinctrnirkerr lookins for speecl, prccisiorr ancl eflicicncy a dnrrn sancleris harcl to bcat. ttnlcssyorr step rrp t() a widc l>clt szrnclcr, but thev ciur cost the price of'zr srnzrllcur. f)nrrn sanclers start rrnckrr A 22-in. open-sicled {11,000. clnun sander, likc tl-rc onc show here, costs about
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$1,500. It can sand a pancl :rs iviclc as 44 in. wher-rclonc: in nvo p2lsses. ()pcratinu a clnrrn sancler is not as easy as it looks, thorrqh, and yotr can nrin ln:lnv rolls oI t'xpt'nsivt' abra-sivcpaper befrrre fi{lrring out the riqht tccl-rniques. He rc are sorner tips for irnprovine yorlr results ancl nraking your sarrclpaperlast Ionger.

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Before making your first pass, slide your workpiece under the sanding drum and adjust its height so the drum touches the workpiece but can still rotate with light hand pressure. Make your first pass or two at this setting. This approach takes off the highest spots on the board but reduces the chance of taking too big a bite, which could gouge your workpiece and burn or tear the sandpaper's abrasive material. A good rule of thumb is to take rwo passesar each height setting. You will get better results and your paper will last longer.

UsE THE ConRECT Gnlr

Match your abrasive grit to thejob. The most common mistake people make is to start too fine. It will not only take longer but the tendency to try to rake too much offwill lead to poor results and damaged paper.

Grits can be divided into three groups: coarse,medium and fine. Coarse24 to 60-grit papersare used for abrasive planing, which involves smoothing rough-

sawn lumber, for dimensioning lumber thickness or for removing squeeze-out on glued-up panels. Medium 80- to 120-grit papers are for leveling previously planed material or glued-up doors and face frames.

Fine grits, 150 and higher, are for your final sanding. Always progress through the
grits in order; it's best not to skip a number. You should turn the drum sander's thickness adjustment wheel no more than onequarter of a turn for coarse grits and one-eighth of a turn for fine grits each time you reduce the height.

Frruo rHE RrcHr Frro Ranr

The type of material you sand and how much you want to remove with each pass determines the best speed. If your machine has speed control on the con' veyor belt, start at 50 percent and then adjust it according to the results you get. If your machine doesn't have speed control, take lighter passes until you develop a feel for your machine's capabilities. Some species, such as hard maple and cherry are prone to burning, as is end grain (see photo at left). Light passesat a higher speed are the best way to avoid burning these types of woods. Oak and similar woods are less likely to burn, so a slower feed rate and more aggressive stock removal works fine. Remember, though, a drum sander is not a planer and is not made to hog off lots of wood in one pass. Also, if your speed or depth setting is too aggressive, you may get sanding chatter, which produces a tiny washboard texture on the wood. It can be hard to see, but hand sanding with a paper one grit finer than the level you used in the drum sander or holding the board up to the light usually reveals the little ripple pattern that sanding chatter produces. Staining and finishing will certainly reveal the ripples, but that creates a big "Oops." One way to avoid such an unpleasant surprise is do a final sanding of your project with a random-orbital sander, whether you suspect chatter marks or not.

30

American Woodworker

JULv 2oos

Clavp

Panrs TocETHER

Edge-sanding face-frame parts prior to assembly savesa lot of time. Clamping the parts together helps keep them vertical during sanding and guarantees they'll all end up the same width. As a rule of thumb, you should clamp parts together if they are 3/4in. or less thick and 2 in. or more wide. This technique may seem to raise a red flag for you regarding safety, but as long as the clamps are cranked on tightly and set below the top of the boards, this setup works just fine. (Of course, this is not something you should ever attempt on a wood planer, because an accidental contact with the planer knives could cause disastrous results for you and your planer.)
32 American Woodworker JULY 2oob

Tnrcr LtcHr Passrs oN Doons

AND FNAVES
Sanding doors and face frames is a common use of a drum sander, not only because it saves time but because the result is a flat frame with smooth joints. Getting these good results requires taking light passes. \Arhen the drum leaves the rail, it's touching only the two side stiles. If your depth setting is too aggressive, the drum tends to gouge the stiles right after it leaves the rail. It's much like a snipe from a planer and just as undesirable.

Srrw rHE Wonrc

Sending your workpiece though the drum sander at an angle improves the abrasive's effectiveness. Skewing the board also allows you to be a bit more i aggressive and reduces the
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' Skewing is particular,la'g 1:ffi ly important when you are sanding off glue. If

possibility of burning the wood or the abrasive.

you send a board with glue on it through the sander, you can almost guarantee the sandpaper will accumulate some adhesive buildup, which is nearly impossible to remove. On the final two or three passes, run the board straight through angled sanding marks. to remove the

American Woodworker

JULY 2oo5

33

Krrp rHE Aennsvr Clrnnr

With use, the abrasive is likely to clog with sawdust and pitch the buildup. This reduces abrasive's effectiveness

and increases the likelihood of burning the belt or wood. To clean the abrasive on the machine, use a cleaning pad (shown at left). You simply run this wide, flat eraser through your sander as though it were a board. It's also safer than the stick type of cleaner that you have to hold by hand on the drum while it's spinning and the cover is open.

Tools,(800)5234777, Source Grizzly www.grizzzly.com 15-in. x 20-in.cleaning pad,#H2845,$60 ea.

34 American Woodworker JULY 2oos

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Ban ClaMPs

Gluing up panels and doors can eat up lots shop space. R & R Clamp's Panel Clamping System provides a solution: clamps ttrat let you stack your work. A single Zbin. clamp sellsfor $26, or savesome dough and get a starter kit that includes six 24in. for $195. The sysclamps with additional accessories tem really simplifies panel and door glue-ups with a price tag that's a little higher than for pipe clamps but a little lower than for parallel jaw clamps. In addition to clamps, the kit includes two bottom and top alignment bars, rubberjaw pads and a socket driver. The bottom alignment bar fastens to a work surface, keeping the clamPs square, and the top alignment bar caps the stack to make sure it all stays stable. Glue-ups can be done without these, but the systemworks best with them. The clamp jaw travels on a threaded rod and is opened and closed using the socket driver, either by hand or with a cordless drill. A cordless drill makes assemblyfast and really benefits woodworkers whose
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hands don't have the power they used to. There's plenty of clamping pres' sure to pull doors or edgetoedge glue-ups closed. And, even under pressure, these clampr$: stay flat. Glue that dries on the threaded rod pops right off as the jaw travels over it. These clamps work best on stacks of parts that are the same length. Available in 1-, 2',3' and 4foot lengths, they also work as general-purpose clamps but are slightly more cumbersome than conventional bar clamps for case assembly.

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wwwrrclamp.com Starterkit with 24.in. clamps,$195. PanelClampingSystem starter kit with 3&' Source R & R Clamp,(g2O)86g-2987, in. clamps,$2b0. 12-in.ctamp,$20. 24-in.clamp, $26. 3Gin. clamp, $35. 4&in. clamp, $39. Rubberguards.$5.50 for four. 24-in.bottom alignment bar,$3 ea. 48-in. bottom alignmentbar,$5.50 ea.24lin. top alignmentbar,$3 ea. 4&in. top alignmentbar,$5.50 ea'
'JULY

AmericanWoodworker

2006

37

Two NEw Tnrv RourERS

Cabinetmakers who work with plastic laminate have been using trim routers for years. These lighnveight, smalldiameter machines are easy to grab for one-handed control. They're great for l/4.in shank, smalldiameter round-over, ogee and, of course, flush-trim bits. There are a handful of players in this field, but Bosch and Ridgid have introduced two new small routers with big features. Both machines have variable speed. You generally think of variable speed as a necessity for running largediameter bits, something you'll never do with a trim router. But running any bit at a lower speed offers a feeling of greater control over the cut and often leads to less burning. Along with variable speed come soft start and electronic feedback. Soft start allows the machines to ramp up to speed instead of instantly popping from 0 rp- to full speed, again offering a greater feeling of control over the router. Electronic feedback ensures that the router maintains the speed you choose, even under load.

B o s c H P R 2OE V S The Bosch PR20EVS,$120, has a 5.7-amp variable-speed motor (16,000 to 30,000 {pm), a very comfortable soft grip for your hand and a top-notch user-friendly depth-of-cut adjustment.
The base has two adjustment modes. In one mode, the base freely slides up and down the router motor for big adjustments. In the second mode, a micro-adjust is used to finetune bit height. The base is locked with a quick clamp; there's no wing nut to tighten and loosen. The router includes a spindle-lock for one-wrench bit changes.

In addition to the PR2OEVS, Bosch makes the pRl0E, that offers soft start but no $100, variable speed.

R r o c r oR 2 4 O O
The Ridgid R2400 cosrs 9100, has a Gamp variable-speedmotor (20,000 to 30,000 rpm) and comes in a kit that includes a fence. Compared with other trim routers, ie 2-l/8-in. motor housing has an extremelysmall diamete4 so it's very easyto grip, even for small hands. Depth-of-cut adjustments are made by loosening the wing nut that locks the base and sliding the RACK.AND. base up and down the router motor. PINIONDEPTH A rack-and-pinion depth-adj ustment ADJUSTMENT
knob helps control the position of the base, but the control isn't as precise as on the Bosch machine.

MrcRoADJUST

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Sources BoschTools,(8771267-2499, www.boschtools.com pRIOE trim router, (gool474-3M3,www.ridgid.com R24oo $100. PR20EVS trim router, $120. r Ridgid, trim router,$100.

38

American Woodworker

JULv 2oos

Source Lee ValleyTools (800)871-8158 www.leevalley.com plane, Largeshoulder #05P43.01 $,1 7 0 .

Ever make a tenon that's justi-frri, too thick? The fastest, most accurate way to shave it down is with a rabbet or shoulder plane. Both types of planes have blades that run the full width of the sole. Shoulder planes are heavier and larger, because they're also designed to cut end grain. This new large shoulder plane from Veritas is ajoy to use and is large enough to pare the full width of most tenons in one shot. Its blade is made from lrz&in.-thick superdurable A2 tool steel. The extra thickness makes it less prone to
40 American Woodworker JULv 2oos

chatter. The additional durability is a real bonus, becauseyou won't have to sharpen it as often. A couple of new features make this plane easy to use. Unlike most rabbet or shoulder planes, this one has a lateral lever for slightly skewing the blade. Skewing compensatesfor a blade that's not sharpened absolutely square. In addition, a clever rear knob can tilt to either side, providing a comfortable grip for either right- or left-handers.

Cialis is not for ev91Vone. lf youtakenitratas, (also oftenusedforclrestparn known asangina), or alpha-blockers (otherthan Flomg 0.1 mg on;e daily), prescribed for prostatepr6ul"rc or rrighbloodFrgs;il;?o not take Cialis. Suchcombinations-could caq6e a sudden, unsale drop in bloodpo""rrE. Don'tdrinkalcohol in excess (toa level of intoxication) withCialis. Thiscombination mayincriiase your9h"n""" otletting aizryoiloweringyour bloodpressure. Cialisdoesnot protecta manor his painer fromsLxually transmitt"i Oir"ases, including HlV. Themostcommon sideeffects with Cialiswereheadache and upsetstomach. Backache andmuscle achewere

AplusrABlr-Jnw Spntruc Clnvp

Spring clamps are handy for a million different lightduty clamping jobs. Until now, though, you needed different sizes of clamps for different thicknessesof material. And large-capacity spring clamps are so hard to squeeze-you almost need another clamp to open them. The new BesseyVarioClippix clamps have an adjustable jaw that ratchets oPen to 2-5/8 in. on the small model and to +I/4u;^. on the large model.Jaw depth isL-l/z in. on and 2 in. on the large one. the small .l*p Sp.ittg pressure remains constant even as the jaw opening increases, so you don't need a gorilla gtip to use the .luorp on thick material. At $5.50 for the small and $6.20 for the large model, the VarioClippix clamps are slightly more expensive than conventional spring clamps.
Bessey Tools, (800) 82*1004, Source clamp, SmallVarioClippix www.americanclamping.com clamp, #K113.008, #X/3-50, $5.50. LargeVarioClippix $6.20.
American Woodworker JULY 2oo5 41

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onset.Most menweren'tbotherel bVthe side effectsenough!o gtop with delayed sometimes also reported, for morethan 4 hours(priapism) takingbiatis.Althougha rareoccurence,menwho experieniean erection with yourdoctorto medications and your medical conditions Discuss attention. shouidseekimmediitemedical activity. for sexual you healthy enough you are that for and ensure Cialisis right theabilityof menwithED to havea single up to 36 hour{afterdosing, wis shownto improve, trials, Ciatis "ln ctinieal gE) attempL intercourse successfu/
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If you have Internet access,You also have fingertip access to a huge array of DeWalt Parts and service tips. DeWalt has introduced www.dewaltservicenet. com, a service-oriented Web site that is packed with information to use. Simply type in a DeWalt model number and away you go. The site provides exploded views, wiring diagrams, service notes and even a handful of how-to-repair videos. Lose your owner's manual? You one for most can download DeWalt tools. If you need rePlacement parts, they can be ordered directly through the Web site. and easY

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46

American Woodworker JULY2oos

1 Start by gluing up the cabinetsides' Splineskeep the I boards aiigned,so the joints will be flush on the gluedup surface.

Cl Rout dadoesin the sidesto supportthe shelvesand rails.Youcan't go wrong when you use this shop-made / jig (see Fig. B., below). (A4), too. Rout the full-length 3/&in.deep rabbet on the back edge on the router table, using a fence and the straight bit. 4. Cut the pine shelves and maple rails to final dimensions. They're all the same length. 5. Rout a centered l/4in.-wide groove in the back edge of the front drawer rail. 6. Glue together the base cabinet, making sure the shelves, rails and sides are flush at the front. Use cauls on the shelves to apply pressure evenly all along the joins. Clamp 9Gdegree brackes in the corners to help keep this large cabinet square (photo 3). After clamping the cabinet together, make sure it's still square by measuring diagonally; both diagonal measurements should be the sarne.Install both top rails (A4) when you clamp, but leave them unglued until the cabinet has been squared. Then glue and screw the front top rail. Screw the back rail in position, but leave it unglued so it can be removed.

BuILD THE Basr CnetNET

l. Glue up blanks for the cherry cabinet sides (Al, Fig' A, page 46) and the pine shelves (A2). Splined joints keep the faces aligned (Photo 1). Cut the sides to final dimensions (see Cutting List, Page 54). 2. Rough<ut the decorative profiles on the bottoms of the sides and then rout the final profiles with a template (Fig'J, Detail 1, page 55). 3. Rout \/L\n.Aeep dadoes for the shelves (Fig C, below) with a straight bit and ajig (Photo 2). To Prevent blowout at the end of the dadoes, the jig's rails should fit snugly over the base cabinet sides. Before routing each dado, fasten the jig in position by screwing it to the cabinet sides. Rout l/4in.deep sropped dadoes for the drawer rails (A3). Make sure the front dado's bottom edge aligns with the back dado's top edge' Use thejig ro rour the 7/ {in.deep stopped rabbets for the top rails

straight bit, this jig allows you When used with a 112-in. to adjust the width of your dadoes to match the shelves' thickness. The distance between the fences determines the dado's dadoes,this distanceis the diamewidth. For 3/4-in.-wide ter of your router'sbase plus 1/4 in. lf your shelvesare a simply adjust the distance slightly differentthickness, When you build your jig, make sure beiween the fences. to the rails and parallelto the fencesare perpendicular one another. Positionthe jig by aligning its dadoeswith your layout marks on the cabinetside. Fastenit with screws and you're ready to rout.
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/ -f C2 Ctue the base cabinet together on a flat surface.To brackJ tquate the cabinet, clamp shop-made 9O-degree ets in the corners before you tighten the bar clamps.

THE FACT FNAVT

AssrvlBLE AND lrusrau

Pocket-holejoinery is a great choice for thisjob (Photo 4). Biscuits are too large for all the narrow pieces, dowels aren't as accurate and mortise-and-tenon joinery takes too long. Pocket-holes are drilled on the back side of the face frame, so make sure to orient all of your pieces back side up. 7. Cut the face-frame stiles and rails to final dimensions. The outside stiles (Bl) are 7/1bin. oversize in width, so the face frame is slightly wider than the cabinet. After the face frame is glued on, its overhanging edges are routed flush. 8. Drill pocketholes in the top rail (B2), drawer rail (B3), drawer stiles (B4) and door stile (85). 9. Rout stoBped, centered slots for splines in the bottom rail (86) and in the outside stiles (Photo 4, inset). Splines are a better choice here than pocket screws, because you'll rout through thesejoints when you shape the face frame's curved profile. 10. Gtue and clamp the splinedjoints. Then fasten the rest of the face-frame pieces with pocket screws. Measure the diagonals to make sure the face frame is square. ll. Rout the decorative bottom profile (Fig.J, Detail 2, page 55). You'll have to rout against the grain during a Portion of each pass,so tearcut may occur (Photo 5). After routing, finish cutting the profile's center point with a chisel or file. 12. Glue the face frame onto the cabinet. Make sure the top edges of the face-frame rails (B2, 83 and 86) are flush with the cabinet rails (A3 and A4) and the bottom fixed shelf (A2). Equalize the overhang on both sides. Tack the frame with a couple brads so it stays in place when you apply the clamps. After the glue has dried, remove the clamps and trim the face frame stiles flush with the cabinet sides. 13. Glue on the shelf support (B7).

Assemble the face frame's bottom corners with splines so you won't have to worry about hitting a screw when you rout the decorativecutout.

Assemble the face frame with pocket-hole joinery.This method is fast and easy.Youdrill holes with a dedicatediig, clamP the piecestogether and fasten them with special screws.Thejoinery is hidden, becauseit's on the back of the frame.

X nout the decorativecutout with a template and a flushJ trim bit.You have to rout againstthe grain during this operation.To minimize tear-out,rough-saw the profile to within 1/16in. of the patternline, so you can make a light pass. Dampen the wood before routing and use a largediameter bit (see Sources,page 56).
American Woodworker JULY 2oos 49

Attachthe drawer supports.Gtue the tongue-and-groove fi \,7 ;oints at the front. Securethe backswith screws and washersthrough the slots.Thisassemblymethod accom_ modatesseasonalmovement that occurs in the cabinet,s solid wood sides and shelves.

lrusrall THE Dnnwrn SuppoRTS

14. Remove the cabinet's back top rail for access.cut centered tongues on the front edges of the maple drawer sup ports (A5). Test-fit the supports in the grooved front drawer rail: Their faces must be flush for the drawers to slide smoothly. cut centered slots in the back edges, to allow for seasonal movement (Photo 6). Install the drawer supports. 15. Glue and clamp the maple drawer guides (,4.6,Fig. A; Photo 7) and then fasten the back top rail to the cabinetwith glue and screws.Install the maple kickers (Az). They're slotted at the back, like the drawer supports, to allow seasonal movement. Butt the kickers behind the face frame and glue and screw them to the top rail. Fasten them to the back top rail with screws and washers.

Mnrr

AND lrusrnll THETop

16. Glue together boards for the top (C), using splines for alignment. If you don't want the splines to show on the ends, simply rout stopped grooves and cut the splines to fit. cut the top to final dimensions. 17. Rout the rop's edge profile (Fig. A, Detail l) with a l/2-in.-radius half-round bit (see sources, page 56) and an edge guide installed on your router. 18. Rout the l/4-in.-radius ogee trim molding profile (see Sources) on wide Z/4-lin._thick blanks. Cut the front trim (C1) and side trim pieces (C2) and the thinner top back trim piece (C3) as offcuts from these blanks. 19. Fasten the top to the cabinet with screws through countersunk holes in the top rails and a couple of metal tabletop fasteners (see Sources) in the sides. Rout slots in the cabinet sides for these fasteners. 20. Miter the front trim to fit and glue it on. Then miter and attach the side trim.
50 American Woodworker JULv 2oo5

euitOthe backfrom boardswith overlappingrabbets. Q (J lhese overlayjoints are calledshiplaps. work from one end to the other, using spacersto maintaineven gaps betweenboards.Planeor rip the last board to fit.

doors. Cut mortisesin the stiles, f) guitOthe raised-panel V using the groove to guide the mortising chisel.Keepthe stile firmly in position by clamping a fence in front'

1 n C u t t e n o n so n t h e d o o r r a i l su s i n g a d a d o s e t a n d t h e miter gauge.Installa fence and stop block.Thefence tU controlstear-outand the stop block determinesthe tenon's length.

6"

1-13/1 6"

* Lipped on three sides; no lip on hinge stile.

GROOVE Glue the miter and about the first 4 in. of the molding. Nail it at the back to allow the seasonal movement of the cabinet top and sides.

the backof the door panel.By adjustingthe 1 1 naUUet I I Oitt height,you'll make tongues that exactlyfit the grooves in the stiles and rails. 23. Lay the cabinet on its face and fit the boards. Work from one edge to the other, using spacers to create even overlaps between boards (Photo 8). Make adjustments, either by changing the thickness of the spacers or the width of the n'vo outside boards, until all the boards fit. Then fasten the boards with countersunk screws. Add rigidity to the cabinet by gluing the outside boards in the rabbets.

lrvsrnll THE Bacr Bonnos

Shiplapped boards disguise seasonal movement by overlapping, so gaps don't appear between boards during dry seasons (Fig. E, page 50). 21. Cut the pine back boards to final dimensions. The outside backboards (A8 andAg) are differentwidths to center the back's pattern when it's viewed from the front of the cabinet. 22. Rabbet the backface of the left side back board (A8). Rabbet the front face of the right side back board (A9)' Rabbet bothfaces of the inside boards (A10). Drill countersunk holes for screws. Cut the angled feet on the outside boards.

B u u o A N D l r u s r n l l T H ED o o n s
The doors feature raised panels and haunched mortiseand-tenon joinery (Fig. F, above left). Their outer edges are lipped, so the doors overlay the openings in the cabinet 24. Saw centered grooves in the inside edges of the stiles (Dl) and rails (D2). 25. Cut mortises in the stiles (Photo 9). 26. Saw tenons on the rails (Photo 10). Adjust the height
American Woodworker JULY 2oo5 51

{ $ } n a U O etth e d o o r s t o c r e a t el i p p e de d g e s .L i p p e d & o** doorsare easier t o i n s t a l lt h a n i n s e td o o r s b e c a u s e t h e y h i d e a l l t h e g a p s .I n t h e 1 9 t hc e n t u r y , l i p p e dd o o r s w e r e u s e do n c u p b o a r d s l i k et h i s o n e t o k e e p o u t m i c e .

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; , Build frames for the glazed doors.you,ll need a spe_ : cializedrouter bit set (see Sources, page 56) and a " r o u t e r t a b l e . F o r c o m p l e t e h o w - t o i n s t r u c t i o n s ,s e e " D i v i d e d Light Doorsj' page 57).

52

American Woodworker

JULy 2oos

the Create 1 X Buildthe crown molding in three sections. the over blank cove passing the by section cove middle IJ tablesawbladeat an angle,using a fenceset at 37 degrees' the fence to the miter gauge makes it easy to set Fastening raisingthe this angle.Cut the cove by making light passes, increments. blade in 1/16-in. of the dado until one passon each face creates a tenon of the proper thickness. Saw out the haunches on the bandsaw' 27. Raise the panel (D3) on your router table with a panel-raisingbit (seeSources,page 56). Then rabbet the back (Photo 11)' 28. Glue the doors together after assembling them without glue to test the fit. Brush glue into the mortises and onto the tenons. Don't glue the panel. It must be free to expand and contract inside the frame. To make sure my panels don't get stuck, I alwaysfinish them prior to assembly.I also wax the edges, so any glue that happens to squeeze into the panel grooves during glue-up won't stick. 29. Round-over the doors' front edges with a l/L\n'' radius bit. Then rabbet the back edges on three sides (Photo 12). Don't rabbet the hinge stile. 30. Cut hinge mortises in the doors. Then position the doors on the cabinet Soyou can transfer the mortise locations to the face frame (Photo 13). Cut these mortises, install the hinges and mount the doors. Note: Because of their overlay style and the use of traditional butt hinges, the doors swing open slightly less than 180 degrees. 31. Mark locations for the knobs (D4; see Sources, page 56) and drill holes for the screws.

1 C, Saw the edges of the cove section at 34-degree angles.After making the first cut, repositionthe fence IU on the other side of the bladeto make the secondcut'

toms (E7 and E8) fit in grooves centered in one of the dovetails, so they,re hidden. If you're unfamiliar with routing dovetails with a dovetail jig, see "Making Lipped Drawers," (AW #84' December 2000, page 91) for complete how-to instructions. The fact is, you don't have to use a jig to make the drawers. In the 19th century drawers in cabinets like this one were often handdovetailed, butjust as often, they were simply butted and nailed. That means you can choose the drawerjoinery method that suits your taste and skill level. To make drawers, all you real-

The drawers are sizedfor dovetailjigs that produce pins and tails spaced7/8 in. Set up your jig to leave pins at the top and bottom' Center three-quarter grooves for the drawer bottoms inside the lowest socketand pin.

3/8" LIP

Buun rHE DnnwERS

The drawerfions (El and E2) are roundedover atal/4-.in radius and lipped 3/8 in. on top and l/4 in. on the ends, so they cover the openings. The bottoms aren't lipped. The drawers fit inside the openings with L/LGin. width and l/&in' height tolerances. The knobs (E3; see Sources) are centered in the drawer fronts. The maple drawer sides (E4) and backs (E5 and E6) are sized for machine-cut dovetails, with threequarter pins at the top and bottom (Fig. H, at right). The plywood drawer bot-

DOVETAILS
American Woodworker JULY 2oo5 53

Base Cabinet
Dimensions19-112"D x 57"Wx 36-7l8"H Name Bottom cabinet A Cabinet A1 Side A2 Fixed shelf A3 A4 A5 AO A7 A8 Ag A10 A11 Drawer rail Top rail Drawer support Drawerguide Part

Top Cabinet
Dimensions: 14-314"D x 59-1/2"W x 4B-112"H Part Name Top cabinet F Cabinet Top shelf Fixed shelf Side Oty. Dimensions 12"x45-114"x54" 3/4" x 11-1/4" x 53" . 3/4"x10-3/4"x53" 3/4" x11-1/4 x45-1/4" 3/4" x 5-1/16"x45-1/4" 314"x2-1/2" x32-114" 3/4" x2" x4" 3/4" x4" xM" 1-1/2x " 1 - 1 / 2 "x 2 " 1/2" x4-3/4" x4-718" 1/2"x5-114" xM-7/8" 112"xJ" y Q-Q,-Jlg" 1/2"x4-314 xM-718" 7/8" x21" x32-3/4" 7/8" x2-314 x32-3/4" 7/8" x2-3/4 x15-1/2" p l u s2 0 m m " 718"x3/4" x 15-1/2 plus 20 mm -' 7/8" x314" x7-3/4 p l u s2 0 m m " 7/8" x314" x10-114 plus 20 mm .. 1-114" diameter 3/16"x 3/16" x cut to length 2-3/4"x3-1/2" x 66" .-2-3/4"x3-1/2" x 18"' 718"x15fi6x108" 718"x1-112x108" 7/8" x3-114"x 108" 3/4" x2" x54-1116"', 314"x2" x8-314n*t 3/4" x 1-5/8'x2-3/4"

(Xy. 1
2 2 2 2 4 4

Dimensions 18"x36"x54" 3/4" x 17-1/4" x36" 314"x 16-3/4"x 53" 3/4" x 2" x 53" 3/4"x2"x53" 314"x 2-314"x 14-518 .. 3/4" x1-1/4 x14-3/4" 314" x2-3/4" x16-1/4" 1/2"x4-718"x36" 112"x5-3/8"x36" 112"x5-118"x33" 1/2"x1-112"x43" 314"x36"x54" 314"x5-1/16"x36" 3l4"xl-l/l"y!,{'' 314"x1-114"xM" 3/4" x1-1/4"x4-3/4" 314" x2-1/2 x22-518" 314" x4" x44" 1 - 1 / 2x 1 - 1 1 2 x " 2" 718" x 19-1/2" x57" 314"x718" x 58" --314"x718" x20" r 1/2"x7/8" x52-112 718" x21" x23-1/8"

F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 FG F7 F8

1 3

2 Face-frame outside stile 2 Face-frame center stile 1 Face-frame top rail 1 Face-framebottom rail 1 Shelf support 2 Left side back board

Kicker 4 Left side back board 1 Rightside backboard 1 Insidebackboard g 2 1 2 1 1 2 1 1 1

Top cabinetstay Face frame B Faceframe Outsidestile Top rail Drawer rail Drawer stile Door stile Bottom rail Shelf support

Fg F10 Rightside backboard F11 Wide back board 4 F12 Narrow back board 4 Divided-light doorc G G1 G2 G3 G4 Gb GO G7 Glass-panel door Stile Rail Horizontal muntin Top/bot.veft. muntin 2 4 4 4 4

81 82 83 84 85 86 87 Top

CTopl C1 C2 C3 Fronttrim Side trim 1 2 1 2 4 4 2 2 2 1 1 2 3 o 1 2 1 2

Centerverticalmuntin 2 Knob Glass retainers 2 48

Backtrim Frame and panel doors D Door D1 Stile D2 D3 D4 Rail Panel

Knob Drawers E Outsidedrawers EE E1 EZ E3 E4 E5 E6 E7 EB Centerdrawer Centerfront Outsidefront Knob Side Center back Outsideback Center $91196*r Outside bottom *'*

Grown molding and web frame H Assembledfront crown 1 HH Assembledside crown z 3 / 4 " x 1 4 - 1 1 2 " x 1 6 - 5 / 8 " H1 Crown base 1 1-l12 diameter H2 Crown cap 1 7 / 8 "x 3 - 1 1 2 x 2 3 - 1 / 8 " rr 7/8" x3-112 x17-112" H3 5"x14-518"x17" 5" x 13-9/16" x17" 3/4"x5"x13-9/16" 314"x5"x14-518" 1-l12 diameter 112"x4-518"x16-3/8" 112" x4-5/8 x13-1/16" 1/2"x4-518 x14-1/8" 1 1 4x " 12-9/16 x16-114" 1/4"x 13-5/8"x16-1/4" H4 H5 Crown cove blank Web-framestile Web-framerail Brackets 1 2 3

" Dimensions for use with Freudrouterbit set #g9-270 "' Cut to length,both ends mitered r Cut to length, one end mitered x 3/B"Dcenteredgrooveon one edge " 114'W "' 1/4'W x 3/8"Lcenteredtongue on both ends

H6 5 ' 112'W x 3/B'D rabbet on back edqe

114"Wx 3/8"D centered groove on back edge of the front drawer rail 114"\Al x 3/8"D centered tongue on front edges, centered

slot in backedges "' Cut to length,both ends mitered ' Cut to length, one end mitered tenonson both ends " 1-314-in. "' Mapleor birchplywood

54

American Woodworker

JULY 2oos

Cu" the crown molding together in stages.Clamping 1n L I a beveled offcut to the back of the cove makes it easy .to glue and clamp the ogee. Orient the two sectionsby keeping them flush at the back. ly need to know are the size of the drawer fronts and the size and depth of the drawer oPenings.

1 O Glue the crown molding onto its own web frame. spacersalign the molding and assurea uniRabbeted IO the lipped molding form lip.When the crown is installed, covers the joint between the frame and the cabinet. panes of glass (Photo l4). In the old dap, this complicated joinery was done by hand. Today, special router bit sets make thejob easier. Building these doors is in itseH an ad'vanced project, so we've devoted an entire story to show you exactly how to make them. Most of the work is done on the router table, but you also have to chop mortises. For complete how-to instmctions, see "Divided-Light Doors" page 57. The dimensions for the giass openings (Fig. G, page 52) and for the door parts (Gl through G5) are dedicated to the same Freud router bit set (see Sources, page 56). 32. After gluing the door frames together, round-over the edges and rout lips on three sides, as you did on the solid panel doors on the base cabinet. Similarly, chop the hinge mortises, install the hinges and mount the doors. Then mark and drill screw holes for the knobs (G6).

BurLD THEToP CnetNET

The top cabinet is constructed the same way as the base, with shelves (Fl and F2, Fig. D, page 48) glued into dadoes and rabbets in the sides (F3). A face frame (F4 through F7) is glued to the front, supports (F8) are glued under the shelves and shiplapped boards (F9 through F12) are screwed to the back. The back shows on this cabinet, so I used wide and narrow boards for visual interest. The top shelf is rabbeted, like the sides, to house the back boards.

BuruoDtvtoeo-LtcurDoons
These handsome doors feature mortise-and-tenon construction that's modified to incorporate multiple individual

American Woodworker

JULY 2oo5

55

38. Adjust the fence's position by moving the miter gauge forward or back. Hold the blank against the fence and use line A (Fig. D, Detail 2) as aguide for positioning. when line A intersects the point where the blade enters the throat plate, clamp the fence to the saw table. 39. Install a featherboard to keep the blank from wandering away from the fence as you make the cut. Lower the blade to l/lG.in exposure and cut a test cove to familiarize yourself with the process. Then cut the coves (photo lb). 40. Saw the cove's beveled edges at 34degree angles (Photo 16). orient the blank cove face up for both cut'. save the larger beveled offcut. Handle the beveled cove molding carefully; its top edge is fragile. 41. Use the beveled offcut to glue the ogee-profi.le base to the cove (Photo l7). The cap glues on easily with spring clamps only. Sand the molding to remove the saw marks. 42. Build the maple web frame (H4 and H5). This frame isn't glued to the cabinet, so tongue-andgroovejoinery is better than pocket holes. The frame is slightly longer than the cabinet, so the lipped molding will drop easily over the sides. 43. Fit the front crown molding (H) to the frame by mitering the corners. Then glue it on, using rabbeted spacers to create a uniform l/Lin. overhang (photo 18). 44. Miter and fit the side mold^ing-s(HH). Then glue them on. Fit and install the brackets (HO). 45. Screw the crown assembly onto the top cabinet.

Gracefulcurves, a wide stance and prominent crown mording reflect this cupboard's pennsylvaniaheritage,where similar pieces have been built for more than 200 years. other Pennsylvaniadesign cues include the step-6ackstyle with glazed doors over an open sill and the three drawers banked over a pair of raised-paneldoors in the base.

THE CUPSOARD

Frruauy AsseMBLE

33. Remove the doors. Install the glass p:rnes and retainers (G7) after you've applied the finish.

THE CNOWru MOLDING

The crown molding consists of three separate moldings (Hl through H3) that are glued together (Fig D, Detail l, page 48). This molding mounts on its own web frame, which is then attached to the cabinet. If the molding were directly attached to the cabinet, seasonal movement would eventually break open the miterjoing. 34. Rout the 2l/6Lin.-radius ogee (see Sources, below righ0 and l/2-in-radius halFround profiles for the base (Hl) and cap moldings (H2) on opposite sides of a wide blank. Then rip the finished moldings (oriented as offcuts) from the blank. 35. To make the cove molding (H3), start by drawing the cove profile (Fig. D, Detail 2, page 4g) on both ends of a T7/{in.-wrde test blank. The profile is offset to one side, so make sure it's oriented the same w:ry on each end. Drawvertical lines to mark the start and end of the cove. Mark one as line A. ' 36. Unplug the saw. Set the blade height at the depth of the cove, 5/16 in. '37. set your miter gauge ataSzdegree angle to the blade and install a long; straight fence.
56 American Woodworker JULv 2oos

Burlo AND lrusralt.

46. Make two stayrs(All) to fasten the cabinets together. Position the top cabinet on the bottom cabinet so you can mark and drill countersunk screw holes on the sta1n. The screws go into nuo shelves in the top cabinet and both rails and one shelf in the bottom cabinet_ 47. If necessary,instalt the top trim molding (c3) to cover thejoint between the back boards of the top cabinet and the top of the bottom cabinet.

Awo FlNtsH
The only finishing mistake you can make with cherry is to stain it. cherry ages to a beautiful deep coror wittr just about any finish, so it doesn't need stain. Just grve it time. For appearance, long life and durability, I prefer a surface finish, like shellac or lacquer. cherry will age faster with an oil finish; however an oil finish enhances cherry's unpredictable figure, which can appear mottled or even blotchy. surface finishes minimize this figure. Leave the pine interior unfinished and a fresh scentwill fill the air whenever you open the cabinet doors. Sources SmithWoodworks & Design,lg}gl gSZ-272g, www.niceknobs.com 1-114-in.-dia. cherry knob, #Kg2j14, $1.50 ea. 1-1/2-in.4ia. cherry knob, #Kg2112, (g00)334$i.60 ea.r Freud roors, 4107, wwur.freudtools.com 21/64-in.-radius ogeebit,#99.006. $57.114_in._ radius ogeebit,#38-1s4, $37.1-in. topbearing ftush-trim bit,#so-1 12,$2g. 1-in. half+ound bit,#82-t18, $s6.Beveted-prof ile panel-raising bit,#9g.b1 6, $93.Divided-light cabinet . doorbit set,*99-zzo, si so. wooiwoiker's (800) Hardware, 383-01 30,www.wwhardware.com Tabletop fasteners, #Kv0324 srl, $5 for a boxof 20.Doubre-roiler catches, #LAl91oAc, ea.2-in. $0.55 butthinges. Sp129S Bp21g, $2 a pair.

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American Woodworker

JULY 2oo5

Toor-sYou'rl Usr
ArueroMy
OFA

LrcHr Doon

DrvlDED-

To build these doors, you'll need a router table and a set of special bia (see Sources, page 6l). You'll also need a metric ruler, tablesaw, planer, jointer and some means of making mortises.

Drslcl Youn Doon

Let's start with some oldfashioned terms. The openings for the glass are traditionally called lights. They're "divided" by bars called muntins. Start by drawing your door. Determine the door's overall size, the widths of the stiles, rails and muntins, and the size of the lights. Next, select a set of dividedJight door router bis. Each set is designed for a specific range of door thicknesses and requires a different setup, but the general steps are the same. Visit *re manufacturers'Web sitesfor details. We used bits from Freud ($1b0, seephotos below). They're suitable for doors from 13/16 to l-l/8 in. thick with 5/&in. or wider muntins. These bits make tenons; some other setsdo not.

HORIZONTAL MUNTIN I

sTlLE )

MORTISE

Sranr Currrruc Panrs

Mill all the door parts to final thickness (7/8 in. for this door). Make a few extra boards the same size as the rails. Use these for making the muntins and for testing the router bit and mortising machine setups.Crosscutall the pieces a few inches long. Rip and joint the stiles and rails to final width. Cut the stiles to final tength. Leave the rails and muntin boards long. The muntins will be 3/4 in, wide, but don't rip them yet. Leave them as part of a wider board.
SHIM STORAGE

Three major parts make a divided light door: stiles, rails and muntins. Every part is locked in place by a mortise-and-tenon joint. In this six-light door, the two horizontal muntins are the same tengin as the rails.Thiee short vertical muntins fit between the rails and horiiontal muntins. Although proportions vary among furniture styles, in this door the lower rail is 1-112 times as wide as the top rail.All the lights are the same sizeand evenly divided.

Two matched router bits cut allthe profiles. The cope cutter shapes the ends of all the rails and muntins. lt also forms a short tenon and a rabbet to receivethe glass.The bead cutter shapes the long edges of the stiles, rails and muntins. lt also forms a rabbet. Both bits may be adjustedto fine-tunethe tenon's thickness.Yousimply take apart the bit and add shims abovethe bearing.These shims come with the bit and are stored under the nut and washers.
58 American Woodworker JULv 2oos

+-BEARTNG-->

Cut every part of the door to exact length in these stePs.Use the actual stiles to calculate the precise length of the rails and muntins'

DTTRMINE.THE LTNGTH oF THE Ralls AND MuNTlNs

Cut two spacers to spread the stiles I to the door's final width. This method prevents you from making a math error with awkward fractions in the next step.

-l

C) AAA the tength of two tenons to the spacer and mark this total distance l on a rail blank.With the Freud bits, two tenons are equalto 20 mm (about 25132 in.) Crosscut the rails and horizontal muntin boardsto this length.

Q Us" the same Process to calculate vertical muntin boards' length' Jtf," Position two 3/4-in.-thickblocks to stand horizontalmuntins. in for the 3/4-in.-wide Cut two top and bottom spacers the same length.Thencut a middle spacerto fit. Add 20 mm to these spacers to mark and cut the verticalmuntin boards.

Next, cut tenons on the end grain of every part. Coping the ends before cutting the beads minimizes problems with grain tear-out.

Copr rHE EwDs

A S*up the cope cutter. For a 718-in.door like this one, raisethe bit Ttni* so the top cutter is 5/8 in. above the table. Positionthe router table fence so the cutter bearing is perfectly even with in. proud.Thisassures the fence or 1164 a full-depth cut, which is necessaryfor a good fit.

f, Test cut an extra piece of rail stock. J Clamp a backing board to the workpiece to prevent tear-out. Use a push pad to keep the workpiece flat on the table and your fingOrs out of harm's way.

so it fits the mortise made by a 5/16-in. lf the tenon is too thin, add shims cfrisel. above the bearing (see inset). Add the same shims to the bead cutter.When the tenon is correctlysized,cope the ends of allthe railsand muntin boards.
American Woodworker JULY 2oo5 59

RoLJT THE BEnn

The bead goes on the long grain of the stiles, rails and muntins.

beads on TRout I tne inside edges of the stiles and rails. Positionthe bit so the lower knife is level with the rabbet made by the coping cut (see inset). Cut beads on both sides of the muntin boards.

Q nip the muntin boards. Use a push LJ block with a stop and hold-down board so you can keep the guard and splitteron your saw.The exact width of this cut-3/4 in.-must be the same as the width of the stand-inmuntin blocks you used to calculate the vertical muntin's length in Photo 3.

ft Rout the second side of the q " / m u n t i n s .U s e t h e s a m e p u s h b l o c k as you did on the tablesaw.This time the push block is flipped over and the hold-down removed.
Caution:You must use two featherboards t o h o l d t h e w o r k p i e c es q u a r et o t h e t a b l e .

Cur rHE MonTrsrs

Most routed doors merely have cope and stick joints. Mortise-and-tenon joints strengthen a divided light door to carry the extra weight of the glass.

SUPPORT I\-f on the stiles directly from the rails and horizontal muntins. Positionthe muntins with the spacersyou made earlier (see photo 3). Draw pencil lines along both sjdesof the tenons (see inset).Mark mortisesfor the verticalmuntins in the center of the raits and horizontal muntins.
60 American Woodworker JULv 2oos

1n

Mark mortises

I I fUart the outer end of each rail -E..L mortise that will receive a rail. Typically, this mark is about 3/4 in. from the stile'send.

{.} Cut mortises in the muntins J -.f, 6"* halfway through from both sides. Placea support block under the muntin so its top edge is within range of the machine's hold-down.Cut 1/2-in.deep mortisesin the rails and stiles.

Remove the outer part of the rail tenons to fit the mortises.

HnuNcH THE Ralls

'l

C) Mark the waste on the tenon's end with a combination square. IJ

1 zl nemove most of the waste with a mortising bit.You don't have to I:t move the machine's fence. This is the same setup you used for cutting mortises in the rails and stiles.

1 X Pare the tenons to width. Check the fit of all the tenons in the IJ mortises. File small bevels on the ends of all the tenons so they're easier to insert into the mortises.

The entire door must be glued at one time. It's best to work directly on a large, flat assemblytable so you can slide each piece home before clamping it.

AssEMBLETHE Doon

1/16 in. off the ends of the 1G.Gut vertical muntin tenons. As origiIt nally routed, each tenon is slightly over 3/8 in. long. That's too long for' the through mortises in the horizontal muntins, which are 314in. wide.'

the door. Squeeze-out 1 ?Clu" I / around the beads can be difficult to clean up, so use a minimum of glue. Sand and finish the door before You install the glass.

1 O Nait small retaining strips to hold glass. Predrillangled holes in IOthe squarestrips using a nippedthe 3/16-in. off brad as a drill bit. Support the muntin with a spacer block wedged in the oirpo: site opening. Use a nail set to keep the hammer's head awaY from the glass.

S228.r FreudTools,(800)3344107, www'Freudrools'com #800.525.11, cMT, (Bgg)26g-24g7,www.cmtusa.comDivided-lightdoorset, Sources r (8OO) www.mlcswoodworking'com window-sash 533-9298, MLCS, 50. #99270, $1 stock, cabinetdoor bit set for 13/16- to 1-in.-thick Divided-light for 112-to stile'and-railbits stock: a single reversiblebit, #8893, $55;a twe'piece matchedset, #8894, $85. Miniature bits for 7/g in. to 1-112in.thick stock, #8848 $70. 3/zt-in.-thick American Woodworker JULY2oo5 61

For my home, dark walnut is too formal, light maple too stark. I prefer working with American hardwoods rather than imported
species, so when I want a medium-toned wood to relax with in my home, I build with cherry. It's fairly easy to work, like walnut or

red oak, but the real appeal for me is its rich appearance.

Exceptional Curly Figure

Curly figure is quite common in cherry.As you walk a r o u n da f i g u r e db o a r d ,t h e d a r k a r e a st u r n l i g h t a n d t h e light areasgo dark,just like the luster of fine silk. Even a s m a l l a m o u n t o f s u b t l ec u r l y f i g u r e u n d e r a c l e a r s t u n n i n g3 - D e f f e c ti s f i n i s hc a n m a k e m a g i c . T h i s
c a fl e d c h a t o y a n c y . L a r g e - s c a l e l u m b e r d e a l e r s g e n erally don't separate curly from straight-grained i I

b o a r d sW . h e n l u m b e r y a r db o a r d sa r e p l a n e dh i t or-miss,you can easily spot the curly wood. With some practiceyou can even spot chatoyancyin r o u g h ,u n p l a n e dl u m b e r .J u s t l o o k f o r d a r k r i p p l e s that go acrossthe width of the board.

Berruarethe Phantom
exposureto light and air to turn color Cherry needs unobstructed evenly.Don't leavea lamp, book or other solid object on top of y o u r c h e r r yf u r n i t u r ef o r a n e x t e n d e dl e n g t ho f t i m e d u r i n g i t s first year.Thewood underneaththe object won't darkenas fast, phantom "shadow" that may which resultsin a light-colored r. never completelydisaPPea This problem startswhen you first plane rough cherry boards. , ou'll A f t e r p l a n i n g ,i f y o u l e a v et h e m p i l e dw i l l y - n i l l yo v e r n i g h t y At the end of a day's get shadow lines where they overlapped. from one another, work, I stand all my boards on edge, separated to lightand air. s o a l l f a c e sg e t e q u a le x p o s u r e

l-!

The biggest challenge in working with cherry is to select boards that harmoniously blend with each other. I've spent hours at a lumberyard

picking through piles of cherry, looking for the right family of boards, and the extra
time is worth it.

Choose Carefully, Don't Stain

Cherry boards come in many shades. I look for boardsthat are similar in color and figure so I can use a clear finish and let the wood change color naturally. Many nonwoodworkers assume cherry is very dark and has little or no figure.That's becausemost commercial cherry furniture is stained or toned to even out color differencesand blend in light-coloredsapwood. =.* I understand the economics of this practice,but in my small ihop, I consider stain a last resort. lt simply obscuresthe magic.

Buy a Log
some custom sawmills go to a lot of trouble to restackwhole logs after they've been cut and dried (see sources, page 6s).This is a gold mine for cherry prospectors. Naturally, this wood will cost a bit more. Most custom mills have a $300 or so minimum order.you can buy an entire log (often called a flitch) or neighboring boards,depending on the mill,s sales policy. Keep in mind that allthe wood in a log won,t necessarily be the highest grade. some boards may have knots and checks.Toavoid any misunderstandings, it's best to phone in rather than e-mail an order.

Sarnra Giant Board

When it comes to matching color and figure, the next best thing to buying a cut-up log is to saw one yourself.Youdon't need a sawmill in your backybrd,just a good bandsaw; Look for the longest,widest, tt,ict9st cherry board you can find. For a project requiring a modest amount of solid wood, you mighi get all the parts from one humongous board. Maybe it,ll take two monsters. For maximum yield, rip and resaw the board before planing.
64 American Woodworker JULv 2oos

:':riirJl;6" -1{
.; ir. ir:

Whether you're visiting a local lumberyard or ordering cherry by phone, you've got to know the wood and keep up with the lingo. I was recently surprised to learn that you can buy a super-premium grade of cherry if you know what to askfor.

The'All-Red"

Grade

Be on the alert for light-coloredsapwood when you select cherry boards. lt's a dramatically different color than the heartwood. It's perfectly OK to have sapwood on the hidden, inside face of your boards, but sapwood on the outside face can be very hard to disguise. Sapwood isn't considered a defect when most cherry is graded.That means Select and Better cherry boards, the highest standard gradb, may well contain lots of sapwood, or none at all. Some lumber dealers select cherry boards that have little or no sapwood and sellthem at a premium price.Theymight be labeled as "all-red" or some variation of that phrase.This is a grade that has not been standardizednationally,so the percentage of sapwood allowed varies from dealer to dealer.

LornrerGrade = Savings
Prime cherry costs from $5 to $9 per bd. ft. Only a small percentageis designatedas the highest Selectand Bettergrade. Grading is based on minimum widths and lengths and a low incidence of knots. No. 1 Common is a lower, less-expensive just have to plan grade, and there'splenty available.You around the knots or glue narrow boardsto make wide ones.

Watch Out for Gum Pockets

Gum pocketsare small black streaksthat occasionally form under the bark. Gum pockets aren't rated as defects when cherry boards are graded, but they can mar the appearanceof an otherwise gorgeous board. On the other hand, placed judiciously, gum pocketscan add character to an otherwise plain surface.Whatever your philosophy, it's a good idea to look for gum pockets before you cut full-size boards.

r Page62 photo and quote from the book: Isos. Most+, Artistry inWood, (888)814-0007, www.hearnehardwoods.com HearneHardwoodS, Sources CA; visit us at www.chroniclebooks.com.) by Thomas Moser with Brad Lemley,@2002.(Usedwith permissionof ChronicleBooks LLC, San Francisco, American Woodworker .lut-v zoos 65

sl a n d e r 5 - i n .r a n d o m - o r b i t a Palm-grip

\Z

6 - i n .r a n d o m - o r b i t asl a n d e r Pistol-grip sanders come in three different body types: palm grip, pistol grip and right angle. We tested the first two: the palm- and pistol-grip styles. Random-orbit Most woodworkers prefer palm-grip sanders because they're lightweight and can be operated with one hand. Palmgrip sanders are only available with 5-in. discs. All sanders with 6-in. discs are equipped with pistol-style grips. Their increased weight and torque generally require two hands to control, but most pistol-grip sanders may also be used onehanded. They have an additional palm grip above the motor. A few 5-in. sanders also have pistol grips because this design is standard in Europe. Some random-orbit sanders run on compressed air rather than electricity. These pneumatic models are lightrveight and very powerful, but they require a large air compressor to operate. We didn't include pneumatic models in this test.

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DISC ROTATION

With most tools, more horsepower means faster stock removal. Randomorbit sanders are somewhat different. The orbit's size prirnarily determines horv quickly a machine sands, given the same disc diameter. Orbits vary from a miniscule 3/32 in. to a huge I/4 in., which is almost three times as large (see Chart. page 74).

Sanders with large orbits cut faster than sanders with small orbits simply b e c a u s el a r g e o r b i t s c o v e r m u c h m o r e ground in the same amount of time. Larger orbits leave more visible swirl marks, however, becausethe loops are bigger.

The orbit's size also determines how easy it is to see swirl marks. A small orbit makes small swirl marks, which are hard to see. Large orbits make large swirl marks that are more visible. No matter which sander yolr use, however, it's good practice to remove the swirls altogether by hand sanding prior to finishing. The smaller the orbits. the easier this will be.

The disc on a random-orbit sander moves in two independent ways: It oscillates and rotates. This should produce a smooth finish without visible scratches, but successalso depends on proper technique (see "Correct Speed and Pressllre," page 69). Oscillation produces tiny circles, or "orbits." Each orbit is always the same diameter on any individual sander, but that diameter varies from machine to machine. The disc's rotation speed varies with the amount of pressure yoll put on the sander. As you push harder, the rotation slows; however, the disc continues to oscillate and make the same size orbits. Slowing the disc's rotation makes the pattern of swirl marks you leave behind much more visible (see "Correct Speed and Pressure").

Sanders with large orbits (more than 3/16 in.) are designed for quick stock removal. Sanders with small orbits (less than 1/8 in.) are designed for finishing work. Orbit size on most sanders falls somewhere in between. Two Gin. modelsMetabo SXE450 and Ridgid R2610-can switch from large to small orbits.

68

American \{roodrvorker-

JULy 2oo5

?""{il"iv i''.A.rj i t:u;'fi{"}'iv Connecr Speeo AND Pnessune -i } j t' ;,,{ rSlr,irJ r; {:'.4y.,ti;3-t..:7 l}| t lj
FEED DIRECTION \---_--->/

The two keys to good results are to slow your arrn action and lighten your pressure. Lots of woodworkers routinely commit tr,vo errors: They move the sander too fast and push down too hard. That reaction is only natural, though. When you sand by hand, both techniques get the job done more quickly with no apparent sander, ill effect. With a randomorbit however, both techniques are counterproductive, because they produce more noticeable scratch patterns. Your goal is to create an even pattern of similarly shaped swirl marks or loops (see upper left box).That'seasy if you go slow and apply light pressure.

u i-i] H ciLl FAs-t- s r-iil.] :;4 A,l.jil i* E ? I i"u: #\.r'r

To make an even scratch pattern, slow to a crawl. You should take 5 to 10 seconds to go 6 in. Going too fast creates an uneven pattern, with long, drawn-out swirl marks at the top of the sanding path and a denser pattern of bunched up marks at the bottom. This also leaves an uneven surface, with more wood taken off at the path's bottom than at is top.

Too Mucu Speeo

Rapidlypushing a random-orbitsander back and forth produces loops of uneven shape.The loops at the top of the sanding path are stretched out, which makesthem more visible.

H ''-;nlv H l'. R f) *'( i {:i t-i L,il} 1, 'r=7,;L-SS DG\"t"rt,; 13 Light pressure is best, about 2 to 4 lbs. (That's about the weight of your arm.) Light pressure allows the disc to rotate at top speed and make the most evenly distributed swirl pattern. It's true that pushing down harder actually removes wood faster, but most of the time it's counterproductive. That's because pushing too hard leaves behind a stretched-out pattern of swirl marks that will take even more work to remove with the next grit. It can also create dished-out areas that won't be visible until you apply a finish.

Too MucH Pnessunr

Pushing down too hard slows the rotation of the disc.The result is long, deep tracks, rather than a more desirable random patternof loops.

American Woodworker

JULY 2oo5

69

p
LOOPS ON DISC

'".; 1 i'ti:-. ?j.';{}9, rAi"\'D C*lUS

$ r r r * r L J LI[ ]m r ; r ' A 5 * i r x .
fiH A 6*tr.,t. $ArSilHri?
Our preference for all-around work is a sander. It's easy to maneuver and comfortable to hold in various positions. A Gin. sander cuts faster, however, because is disc is larger and its motor more powerFin. fuI. A Gin. sander is about twice as heary as a Fin. sander, so it's awkward to use in a vertical position. If you've got lots of large, flat surfaces to sand, though, a Gin. sander can be a real time-saver.

-,;i:,,,.,...1*_ ,..;:..,,. i-{}{}p

DiSCS ?

All the sanderswe tested take hook-andJoop (H&L) discs.They're very user-friendly. You won't ever throw away an H&L disc before i.;
it's totally worn out, because you can put it on and take it off repeatedly. That's ideal when you're going through multi;, ple grits while sanding small batches of parts. You can also leave a disc on a sander for weeks at a time and have no problem removing it. An H&L disc is relatively soft and flexible. It can easily dip into slightly low spots, which saves time sanding. On the negative side, H&L discs are about nvice as expensive as pressure-sensitive adhesive (PSA) discs, but prices are falling. As an additional expense, the H&L pad attached to the sander eventually loses its gripping ability and must be replaced. Average cost for a pad is about $25.

Hook-and-loop discs can be used repeatedly until they're totally worn out.

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Yes. We recommend buying a hook-and-loop (H&L) sander that can accept a pressure-sensitive-adhesive (PSA) pad and discs (see Chart, page 74). PSA discs are not as widely available as H&L discs, however. Some sanders have PSA-pad versions, but they're not inclued in our test and chart. The PSA system has two benefits. With PSA paper, you can sand a surface absolutely dead flat because the discs don't have loops. The loop backing on an H&L disc is somewhat squishy. This can cause it to dig into the softer sections of a plainsawn board. The other benefit of the PSA system is that you'll save money when you sand lots of wood with the same grit. Bulk quantities of PSA paper are less expensive than H&L in bulk. On the down side, a PSA disc usually can't be reused because the adhesive back is easily fouled with sawdust. You put the disc on, sand until you're done and then throw it away.

A 6-in. sander works quickly on large areas becauseits disc has almost 50 percent more sanding surfacethan a 5-in. sander.All 6-in. sanders have two-handed pistol grips.

Pressure-sensitive-adhesive discs cost much less than hook-and-loopdiscs but u s u a l l yw i l l stickto the pad only one time.
70 American Woodworker JULy 2oo5

A palm-grip S-in. sander is easy to hold on both vertical and horizontalsurfaces.

#
ff

SHoULD I euY
A SANDER WITH A DUS CCLLECTION BAG OR

til

A CANISTTN?
Both work, up to a point. Cloth and paper bags are about 60 to 70 percent effective; canisters with pleated microfilters are about 80 to 90 percent effective. Pleated filters are much more effective in capturing the smallest dust particles, which are the greatest threat to your health. But no type of
CANISTER

i.,i ,i

- J t

- .

I lirj

onboard

collection is as

Emptv vour baei oTt6n!

you It.c a n fi l l u p b e fo re k n o w i t. Wh e n th a t h a p p e n s ,d u s t b a c k s up into the motor. All those gritty particles will slowly destroy it. ! No kidding

effective as hooking up to a shop vacuum. Paper bags are disposable. When they fill up, you just toss them out. This avoids creating the cloud of dust that a cloth bag makes when you shake it out. Both canisters and the supports under paper bags stick out quite a bit. They can get in the way when you're working in tight quarters. Some models have optional cloth bags for these situations.

i;ar;++iiiP;rr

..

,ilni

No. This is a m4jor difference among machines. Most sanders have round dust ports for directly hooking up a hose, but others have oval or rectangular ports that require an additional adapter from the manufacturer. Dustport diameters are all over the map. Some sanders have ports sized to fit one of three common hoses (7-l/4in., l-3/8 in. or 2-l/4 in. outside diameter). Other sanders with oddsized round ports require a manufacturer's hose or adapter or a universal stepped adapter (see Source, page 74). It's fmstrating that neither dust ports nor hoses have been standardized. Despite that, vacuum collection works amazingly well and has three major benefits. You'll get better results, your shop will be cleaner and your lungs will be healthier. It's the way to go! Dust collection r m p r o v e s when you hook dramatically u p a v a c u u mh o s e .
funerican \Vooclworker JULY 2oo5 71

Is your san
Most sanders have a simple uringthis test, we noticedthat some sandersrun much more smoothly than others. The smooth runnersare easierto controland more comfortableto hold for long periods. Sanders that didn't run smoothly either vibrated too much, wobbled excessively or shook so much that they would unexpectedlyrun off in random directions. Who wants one of those? device called a pad brake that is always on. It keeps the motor from spinning too fast when you lift the sander off your work. The brake prevents the disc from digging into the wood when you set it down on a new area. A brake can wear out, but it's inexpensive and
ROTATING RUB SURFACE

easy to fix. The simplest and most common pad brake is a stationary plastic ring that constantly rubs against the pad. Eventually, the ring wears down. Replace it when your motor revs way too high as you remove it from a workpiece. Permanently removing the pad brake increases the speed of the disc so it cuts slightly faster. This shouldn't harm the motor. but it could void your warranty. And you will lose the nodigging-in benefit.
-,-' l,,t :1 l. ., "' :,::'.t",.:.-:i-'-.

No individualmake or model stood out as the best or the worst, for one simple reason:ldentical sandersfrom the same manufacturer may actuallybehavequite differently. Let's take three hypothetical sanders with the same model number.SanderA shakes but doesn't vibrate or wobble. Sander B doesn't shake, but it does vibrate and wobble. SanderC runs perfectly fine. Of all the sanderswe tested, approximately 10 percent had unacceptable levelsof shake.wobble or vibration. We concluded that buying by brand name alone won't guaranteethat you'll get a sanderthat runs as smoothly as a top. You'vegot to try it out.

Ever sand through veneer? Variable speed lets you slow the disc so you can more closely monitor your progress. That's helpful when you're leveling a face frame with a plywood cabinet, for example. Slightly slowing the maximum speed also allows you to find a machine's sweet spot, where noise and vibration are minimized. Many models come in both singlespeed and variable-speed versions. It's not a big deal, but we think the few extra bucks for variable speed is worth it.

Our advice is to make sure you can exchangea new sanderif you don't like it. Then take it for a test drive,using the tests describedat right. Don't expect your sander to be perfect. Your goal is simply to find out whether you've receiveda substandard unit. The odds are slim. Fortunately, the next unit on the shelf from the same manufacturer is probablyOK.

72

American Woodworker

JULy 2oo5

der a smooth runner?

I THE Corurnol Tesr

Turn on your sander and hold it by the cord's strain reliever.You should be able to easily control which directionit goes.

Slightly press a partially filled Styrofoam The ripples on cup on top of your sander. the coffee's surface show you how much the sandervibrates.

A sander wobbles in use when its top slowly rotates off center, like a child'stoy top about to fall over.This is the least annoying of the three problemsa sandermay have-and it'sthe only one you can fix. To measure wobble, unplug your sander, remove the sanding disc and butt the machineup to a pile of blocksand a ruler.Slowly rotatethe sanding pad by hand. lf the sander'stop wobbles away from the ruler by more than 1/16in., it's too much. Mark the pad at the point where the top is farthest from the ruler.

Waves around the perimeter and a calm interior indicate an acceptable level of vibration.

Remove the pad from the sander.Mark the same spot on the sander'sdriving plate.

Shim the "low" spot with small piecesof thin tape. Reassemble the sander and repeat the test with the ruler. Add or subtract shims untilthe wobble is minimized.

Waves covering the whole surface indicate a high level of vibration.

American Woodworker

JULY 2oo5

73

All random-orbit sanders we tested perform well when you've figured out the right technique: light pressure and slow feed (see "Correct Speed and Pressure,"page 69). The rate at which a sander cuts depends on two things: thp disc's diameter and the orbit's diameter. A Gin. sander does more work in less time than a 5-in. sander,but it's also much bulkier. A sander with a l/4.in. orbit removes wood faster than a sander with a l/&in. orbit. Larger orbits also produce larger swirl marks, however. If your primary goal is to remove wood fast, choose a largeorbit sander,such as the Fin. Bosch 3725DEVS

($135). A Gin. largeorbit sandeq such as the Ridgid R2610 ($f49), works the fastest.If a smooth finish is your most important goal, choose a slower<utting, smallorbit sander, such as the Porter{able 333VSK ($801.Mary other sandershavea compromise mid*ize orbit. In any case, look for a sander that's easy to hook up to a vacuum hose. The benefits of sanding without dust are so great that we feel this is a must. We also prefer a sander with variable speed, an optional PSA pad and a low noise level. Some manufacturers offer less-expensivemodels similar to those listed below that don't have variable speed.

5" sanders
Bosch Bosch Bosch Craftsman Craftsman DeWalt Festool Makita Makita Makita Metabo Milwaukee Porter-Cable Ridsid Ryobi Ryobi skil

1295DVSK 3107DVS 3725DEVS 11695 27989 D26453 ES125EO 805010 BO5012K BO5021K SXE425 6019-6 333VSK R2600 RS241 RS2SOVS 7490-01

$80

Palm Pistol Pistol Palm Palm Palm Palm Palm Palm Pistol Pistol Palm Palm Palm Palm Palm Palm

3.5 5.0 5.1 3.8 3.8 4.0 2.4 2.6 2.9 3.1 5.2 2.9 3.5 3.0 2.8 3.5 2.9

Y Y Y N N Y N Y Y Y N Y Y Y Y Y N

Y Y Y Y Y Y Y N Y Y Y N Y Y N Y N

3 mm 5 mm 5 mm 4 mm 111U. 3132" 2 mm 118" 118" 118" 3/16" 3132 3t32', 3t32', 3t32" 5132', 2.5 mm

.118' .197" .197" .157" .100' .094' .079" .125" .125" .125" .197" .094', .094" .094' .094' .156" .O98'

$s0
$135 $45 $79 $84

$tss
$66 $tq $106

$t+s $8+
$80 $70 $ss $50 $40

6" sanders
Bosch Festool Makita Metabo

3727DEVS ETS150/5EO 806030 sxE450

$150 $235 $169 $175

Pistol Pistol Pistol Pistol

5.2 4.0 5.1 6.5

Y N Y Y

Y Y Y Y

4 mm 5 mm s 118 1/8'& 114"

.157' .197" .125 . 1 2 5& " .250' .125'& .250

Ridgid

R2610

$139

Pistol

6.0

1/8'& 1/4

Source HighlandHardware,(8OOl 241-6748,www.highlandhardware.com 7/8-in. to 1-1/4-in. Flexible step Adapter, $3.30,#921072.1-in. to 2-1/2-in. FlexibleStep Adapter,$5. . 74 American Woodworker JULv 2oos

R r o c r oR 2 6 O O ,$ z O
Many 5-in. professional-qtrality sanders perform very well, but this otte stands otrt as a good value. It comes with a lifetime service agreement that offers free replacements for two normal-wear items: the hook-and-loop pad and pad brake. Ard it readily accepts al-l/{in vaclltlrn hose.

C a n i s t e r2 Canister 2 Canister 2 Cloth bag Cloth bag Cloth bag Paper bag Cloth bag Cloth bag Cloth bag Paper bag Cloth bag C an i s t er Cloth bag Cloth bag Cloth bag C a n i s t e r2

N3 N3 N3

NA NA NA 1-3/1 6" 1-114" , 2-114" 1-1t4" 6 1-118" 7t8',6 718"6 7lg 6 1-3l8"

89 90 87 89 90 90 84 85 88 88 87 82 84 87 88 89 83

(800\ 267-2499,www. boschtoo ls.com (8001267-2499,www. boschtool s.com 267-2499,www. boschtools.com 18001. -7414, www.sears.com (800], 377 -7414, www.sears.com (8001 377 (800)433-9258, www.dewalt.com (888)337-8600, www.festool-usa.com ( 8 0 0 )4 6 2 - 5 4 8 2w , w w . m ak i t a t o o l s . c o m (800)462-5482, www. makitatools.com ( 8 0 0 )4 6 2 - 5 4 8 2w , ww.makitatools.com ( 8 0 0 )6 3 8 - 2 2 6 4w . w w . m e t ab o u s a . c o m ( 8 0 0 )7 2 9 - 3 8 7 8w , w w . m il w a u k e e t o o l . c o m (800)487-8665, www.portercable.com (8001 www. ridgid.com 474-3443, ( 8 0 0 )5 2 5 - 2 5 7 9w , ww.ryobitools.com ( 8 0 0 )5 2 5 - 2 5 7 9w , ww.ryobitools.com (871 m www.skiltools.co | 7 54-5999,

8 8 8 8 8 g7 8 8 8 8 8
- a

N4

NA 1 "6 1-114", 2-114" 1-1t4" 1-1t4',

1" 6

8 8 8 8

Canister 2 Paper bag Cloth bag Paper bag

N3

NA 1-1t8"6 7/8 6 1-3/8"

8 g7 g7
h

87 88 83 88

(800],267-2499,www. boschtools.com (888)337-8600, www.festool-usa.com ( 8 0 0 )4 6 2 - 5 4 8 2w , ww.makitatools.com (800)638-2264, www. metabousa.com

Cloth bag

1-3l8"

87

(800)474-3443, www.ridgid.com

pad provided. hook-and-loop 1. PSA-backed 2. Canister c o n t a i n sm i c r o f i l t e r . " ose a" n d 1 - 1 1 2h 3 . A d a p t e r sf o r 1 - 1 1 4 " , 1 - 3 l 8 from manufacturer. available

4 . A d a o t e r f o r 1 - 1 1 2 "h o s e a v a i l a b l e f r o m ma nufactu rer. 5. lnside diameter unless noted. 6. Outside diameter.

7. 8 holes with a center hole. 8. 8-hole pad available from manufacturer. 9. Also available with a 3-mm orbit diameter (ETS150/3EO). Arlerican \\krocll'orkct' JULY 2oo5 75

n
3/9" BEADING BIT

Cur AND
ASSEMBLE

THE Panrs
Start by calculating the size of the parts you need for your quilt according to the Cutting List (see page 86). You can machine your material to final width and thickness at this time, but don't cut the pieces to final length yet. Next rout the profile on the edge and cut the groove on the back of the board you plan to use for the valance pieces (A and B, Fig. A, page 85; Photo 1). Then miter them to final length and cut biscuit slots in the ends (Photo 2). Do a rest assembly of the three valance parts and double-check the length for the light board (C). It's important that the light board not be too long or too short, because it would cause the valance ends to flare in or out and prevent the miterjoints from closing properly. When you have the light board cut to the correct length, glue and clamp it to the valance boards. You can skip running clamps the length \ of the quilt rack if you drive some brad nails through the end valance boards into the ends of the light board (Photo 3). Next cut and fit the trim boards and screw cleat (D, E and F) to final length and glue thgm to the valance and light-board assembly (Photo 4). Then make the clamp boards (G and H). Make the final parts: the cover board (J), spacer blocks (K and L) and the plate stop (M). Assemble these parts with glue and check that they fit into the rop of the assembled . quilt hanger. c a n r e m o v et h e Q C t u e t h e v a l a n c eb o a r d sa r o u n dt h e l i g h t b o a r d . Y o u r.,lclamps very quicklyif you pin the joint with brad nails. '2
(J t.ll

I Rout the profileson the valanceand trim boards beforeyou cut them I to final length.Twocommon router bits are all you need to make this project: a 3/8-in.cove bit and a 3/8-in beading bit.

co I

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Q cut biscuitsin the mitered ends of the valanceboards.Positionthe , slots near the miter's inside edge.Thispreventsthe slot from coming through the board'sface.Theboard that the lights mount on will fit into the groove in the backof the valanceboards.

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84

American Woodworker

JULv 2oos

Materials: thatare Four1x6 boards r a ny o u rq u i l t i8 in. longeth

Tools: Planer, router table biscuit tablesaw, loiner, level, drilldriver, studfinder

Hardware: Low-voltagehalogenlights, screw eyes, transformer, screw hooks

Cost: About $100 for this version, 65-in.-long without the quilt

314" x 118"-

LOWVOLTAGE LIGHT

covE
3/8"
BEADING 3/8" EYE

3/8'1

The flexible desi.gn easilyadapts to arryquilt srze. Simpl. joinery makesit easyto build.

.ff.,.,^,
WASHER. HEAD SCREW 10"-12'O.C.

?tP

*u+"

i!:' oR5=otu= LIP

7l Use spring clamps to glue on the trim board and screw -f cleat.Thetrim board covers most o f t h e b r a d n a i l h o l e s . H i d e a n y r e m a i n i n gh o l e sw i t h w o o d filler.

the lights and the transformeron the bottom ( tnstatt r.-f side of the light board. Snap the light and lens onto the mounting ring and run all the wires, exceptthe power cord, through the holes to the top side of the light board.
American Woodworker JULY 2oos 85

MoUNT THE LrcHrs

Now turn your attintion to drilling the holes for the wiring (Fig. A). The lights' spacing will depend on the overall length of your quilt hanger. It is not critical, but I found spacing them between ll and 14 in. apart to be about right. After the holes for the wiring have been drilled, you can sand and finish the quilt hanger. When the finish is dry install the lights (Photo 5). Screw the mounting ring on; then snap the lamp holder and lens into place. The wires run through the holes and are hidden on the top side of *re light board.

ft Uarf a level line on your wall with a laser or bubble level.Use maskLt ing tape to mark the location of the wall studs, so you have a secure placeto screw in the quilt hanger.

Hnruc lr oruYoun WauLocate the studs in the wall and mark them with masking tape. Strike a level line at the height you want your quilt hanger installed (Photo 6). Drill holes in the screw cleat to match the stud spacing and attach the quilt hanger to the wall with some long screws. This is really a twG. person job, so ask someone to help you hold the quilt hanger in place while you drive in the screws (Photo 7). After the hanger is attached to the wall, screw on the cover board (Photo 8) and fasten the quilt between the clamp boards (Photo 9). Now simply engage the screw eyes on the hooks (Photo 10) and enjoy.

FJ Arccnthe quilt hangerto the wall. Drill holes in line with the wall I studs in the screw cleat on the backof the quilt hanger.After the quilt hanger is mounted,you can remove the exposedmaskingtape.

Oty. A B C D E F G H J K L M Frontvalanceboard Endvalanceboards Light board Fronttrim board End trim boards Screw cleat Frontclamp board Backclamp board Cover board End spacerblocks Sidespacerblocks Platestop

Dimensions (Th xWx

Ll

5/8"x 5" x quilt size + 2-1/2' 5/8"x5"x6" 3/4" x 5-112' x quilt size + 1-3l8" 1f2"x 2" x quiltsize+ 3-1/2' 1 1 2x "2" x6-1/2" 3f4" x314"x quilt size + 1-114" 3/4"x 2" x quiltsize+ 1" 5/8"x 2" x quiltsize+ 1" 114" x4-9116" x quiltsize+ 1-3l16" 112"x4-9116"x1" 112"x1"x4" 114" x 112" x quiltsize+ 1-3l16"

Source Woodworkers HardwareSupply,(800)383-0130. www.woodworkershardware.comLow-voltage four-lightkit with transformer, (transformer can handleup to six lights), #WKSR120LCS, low-voltage $42 per kit. Individual halogentights, #WKAL2O LB, $6.50ea. #8 x 1-1l4-in. washer-head screws.#SCLPBX114, $4 per 100.

86

American Woodworker JULv 2oo5

I I
I i
I

the cover board with screws.The cover board hidesthe wires Q tnstatt \_) and servesas a shelf to displayplatesor other collectibles.

quilt by engaging t h e s c r e we y e s i n 1 n H a n gt h e I \ - t t h e c l a m p i n gb o a r d st o h o o k s b e l o w t h e l i g h t board. lt's an easy,one-personjob. Run the power c o r d b e h i n dt h e q u i l t ,t u r n o n t h e l i g h t sa n d e n j o y !

editedD1l David Olson

Moarle BaTDSAW
Horsing my bandsaw out of the way was a real pain until I installed a pair of large casters (see Source, below). Now my saw has a built-in two-wheel cart. During use, the saw sits firmly on the floor, because the wheels don't touch the ground. They're also out of the way.

ripping .T#lJifffi?X ". :ll;

awkward to hold.

you get the hang of it, because the saw is topheavy and

Although casters make this cumbersome piece of machinery much easier to move, you should only install them if you're comfortable handling heavy loads. Jock Holmm,

CE TJJ F

z
l

E Source AtlantaCaster (7701492-0682 www.atlantacaster.com Sin. rigid casters, #16TM05201R, $ 1 2e a .

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Stabilize the saw with your foot when you tilt it back and set it down. Be careful! The wheels make the saw hard to control until you find its balance point.

88

American Woodworker

JULY 2oos

fi

$ fi iii

LTcHTWEtcHT ExreNStoN WINGS

Extension wings on the miter saw make cutting long stock a breeze. My shopmade wings install and knock down in seconds and they're as light as feathers. My secret? The wings are made from a hollow-core door. After ripping the door to width, I pushed the internal honeycomb pieces back and glued new pine side rails between the faces. Then I installed swingdown legs for stability. Steel bed-rail fasteners hold the wings level with the saw table. After engaging the fastener, I drop a nail behind the hook to lock the wing in place. Chas. Bridge Source Woodcraft,(800)225-1153,www.woodcraft.com S-in.bed+ailfasteners,#1274s6,$llforasetof four.
90 American Woodworker JULv 2oo5

Q: Ifow manyjigs

All the joints on this kitchen table were made on the - half-blind WoodRat... dovetails andthrough, mortises, tenons, grooving, slidingdovetails, drillingand rabetting. The WoodRat can do this precisely because it does not havethe limitations of a jig. lf you joint wood, you needa WoodRat.

Getthe demo DVD($5) online:woodrat.com or call: $77-WOODRAT

ffi
CircleNo. 127

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but we're certainyour last one will. lt makes sense thatthepeople whoinvented joining thetechnique ofbiscuit would build the world's finestplate joiner. These Swissmade,precision crafted toolsare the mostaccurate, repeatable, rugged, reliable machines ontheplanet. Here arejusta fewofthereasons fiat make joiner you'll them thelastplate ever need: o Allslides andcontact surfaces are (ratherthan machined drawn or cast)to precision ensure absolute andflatness o Allguide surfaces arecoated to ensure fluidmotion andmaximum life o Every machine is inspected for dimensional accuracy andgroove . tolerance of .001" e Guaranteed parts availability of spare for 10years r Consistently rated the ultimate biscuit joiner journals bytrade And,Lamello makes morethanjust great Plate Joiners, our Cantex Lipping Planers andLamina Laminate Trimmers are must havetools for the serious woodworker looking forthe uhimate in quality.

In my small shop, I use a shop vacuum to collect dust from several tools. To cut down on the need to swap hoses, I
this manifold with two blast gates. Now I transfer suction with a flip of my wrist. To make the box, I drilled holes for the hoses and rabbeted the box sides for the 1/8-in. blast gates. After cutting rhe end pieces to match the rabbets, I glued the box together on a long backplate for wallmounting. I made blast gates from scraps of plastic, but hardboard would work just as well. To make the wooden handles, I sawed a kerf in an oversize blank, cut the handles from the blank and drilled holes for the screws. Armand Niccolai built

Golonial SawGompany, Inc.

If yo,9 havg an original Small Shop Tip, send it to us with a sketch or photo. If we print it, you'll get $100! Send it to Small Shop Tips, American Woodworker, 2915 Commers Drive, Suite 700, F,agan, MN 5512f or e-mail fs srnallshoptips@readersdigeslcom. Submissions can't be renrrned and become our property upon acceptance and paymenl We may edit submissions and use them in all print and elecronic media.

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92 American Woodworker JULv 2oos

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to share. send it to us. You'll receive $100 for each one we print. Send it to AW Oops!, American Woodworker, 2915 Commers Drive, Suite 700, Eagan, MN 55121, or e-mail to oops@readersdigesl com. Submissions can't be returned and become our property upon acceptance and payment. We may edit sutl missionsand use them in all print and electronic media.
96 American Woodworker

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Before leaving town for the weekend, I made room in my garage shop to stack the 500 bd. ft. of freshly cut red oak that I'djust acquired. I aimed a fan at the stack to help circulate the air, so the boards would dry evenly while I was away. When I returned, I got a big surprise. I don't know how much water 500 bd. ft. of green oak contain, but I can tell you that enough was released in a single weekend to saturate the air in my shop and rust every tool. Jim Knox
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After examining magazine storage boxes-those fold-together cardboard file boxes with open fronts and slanted sides-I decided my precious magazines deserved something better. So I set about making storage file boxes of solid wood. I cut pieces to make 12 4in.-wide file boxes, one for each of my subscriptions. Then I asked mywife to help me with assembly.Instead of gluing and clamping each file box individually, I demonstrated my woodworking prowess by clamping them all at once, using long pipe clamps. Mywife was impressed by my ingenuity, and so was I. Unfortunately, I'd forgotten to insert wax paper between each box, to contain glue squeezeout. The next day,l made sure my wife was present as I triumphantly removed the clamps. You can imagine her response when we discovered that instead of 72 individual storage file boxes, I'd glued up a single 4ft.-wide box with 12 compartments. Dan Cobian

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