HandymanClub.

com f e b r u a r y / Ma r c h 2 0 1 0 12 11 HANDY f e b r u a r y / Ma r c h 2 0 1 0
WORKSHOP
There arent many projects that are attrac-
tive, useful, easy-to-build and inexpensive. But this kitchen
stool hits on all four notes.
Though I initially envisioned designing something
more contemporary with more complicated joinery, I
favored a simpler approach after examining other kitchen
stools that I liked. The result is a piece with handmade
appeal that will improve with age. The seat is a comfort-
able height for sitting at a countertop, and the step will
allow you to reach most upper cabinets.
The first step toward keeping construction simple and
costs down was limiting the size of the parts to match the
PHOTOS BY DAN CARY AND LARRY OKREND
Simple Stool
Take a load off your feet and reach new
heights with this easy-to-build piece
BY DAN CARY
This stools seat is the
perfect height for sitting at
a countertop, and the wide
step is a stable platform for
reaching high places.
2"
1"
1-1/4"
1-1/4" 1-3/4"
1/2"
rad.
1/2
rad.
3/4"
5/8"
12-1/2"
12-1/2"
14"
16"
3/4"
Cut arch in top back crosspiece only
1-5/8" wood screws
(seat and step)
1-1/4" wood scews
(all others)
Plug all exposed
screw holes
6-3/4"
2-1/2"
2-1/2" 1-1/2"
6
6
6 6
22-1/2
22-1/2
22-1/2
7"
3/4"
3/4"
13"
2-1/2"
2-1/2"
2-1/2"
2-1/2"
2-1/2"
2-1/2"
2-1/2"
2-1/2"
5-1/2"
5-1/2"
13-3/8"
27-1/4"
24-7/8"
I
TOP FRONT CROSSPIECE D
CROSSPIECE C
CROSS-SECTION VIEW
A
A
A B
B
B
FRONT LEG A
BACK LEG B
SEAT MEMBERS
STEP MEMBERS
J
G
H
TOP SIDE BRACE F BOTTOM SIDE BRACE E
4"
C
C
C
C
C
C
D
D
F
F
F
E
E
E
I
I
J
J
G
G
H
H KITCHEN STOOL
ILLUSTRATION BY GABRIEL GRAPHICS
HandymanClub.com f e b r u a r y / Ma r c h 2 0 1 0 14 13 HANDY f e b r u a r y / Ma r c h 2 0 1 0
dimensions of common lumber. This approach eliminates
rip cuts (a hurdle for those who dont have a table saw). I
avoided using 2x lumber and any boards that were 3-1/2 in.
wide because they tend to look bulky and are too identifi-
able as construction-grade lumber. Instead, I chose 1x3
boards for most of the parts and 1x6s for the seat and step.
Pine, poplar and sometimes oak or maple boards are avail-
able in these dimensions at most home centers. Of course,
if you have the tools and skills to mill your own boards, you
can substitute any durable wood species you like. In this
case I chose straight-grain Douglas fir.
This project doesnt require much lumber. You could
build the stool out of pine for about $30 (including
screws and a can of finish).
Cutting LiSt
KEY NO. DESCRIPTION DIMENSIONS
A 2 Front legs 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 27-1/4 in.
B 2 Back legs 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 24-7/8 in.
C 3 Crosspieces 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 14 in.
D 1 Top front crosspiece 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 12-1/2 in.
E 2 Bottom side braces 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 13-3/8 in.
F 2 Top side braces 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 4-1/2 in.
G 1 Wide seat 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 16 in.
H 1 Narrow seat 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 16 in.
I 1 Wide step 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 12-1/2 in.
J 1 Narrow step 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 12-1/2 in.
Shopping LiSt
1x3 x 8-ft. boards (3)
1x6 x 8-ft. board (1)
1-5/8-in. screws (14)
1-1/4-in. screws (26)
Wood glue
Polyurethane finish
Place clamps where the arc will end on the top crosspieces.
Flex a piece of scrap wood or metal against the clamps to
create the arc template that you will trace.
Attach the crosspieces to the legs with glue and screws.
Check that the parts are square before drilling pilot holes
and driving the screws.
1. Make a sweeping diagonal cut through the notch area, straightening out the cut along the back edge.
2. Cut back along the back edge line. Be careful not to cut across the line. Then cut in along the side lines.
3. Use a rasp and file to remove the waste up to the layout lines. Clamp a scrap to the leg to stop you from filing too deep.
Back leg
Front leg
Leg
Scrap
Top front
crosspiece
Top back
crosspiece
Back leg
assembly
Front leg
assembly
Cutting notChes
Attach the side braces to the legs. Use a straightedge to align the top of the bot-
tom side braces flush with the top of the bottom crosspieces.
Complicated joinery is unneces-
sary: Glue and screws provide plenty
of strength to secure most of the
joints. The only joints to cut are the
leg notches that accept the cross-
pieces. These notches significantly
increase the stools strength and
lateral (side-to-side) stability so it
wont wiggle.
This is a great first furniture project
for any aspiring woodworker. A per-
son with beginner skills and a few
basic shop tools, including a jigsaw
and a drill-driver, could complete it in
a weekend.
Build the stool
Start by cutting the leg parts to length.
The front and back legs lean into the
stool at different angles. Cut the ends
of the front legs to 22-1/2 degrees. Cut
the ends of the back legs to 6 degrees.
These cuts are easiest to make on a
miter saw, but you can also mark the
angles with a protractor or speed
square and cut them with a jigsaw, a
circular saw or even a handsaw.
Next, cut the notches in the front
and back legs. There are several ways
to do this. My first choice is to cross-
cut the notches with a router or table
saw. But if you dont have either of
these tools, you can also use a jigsaw
(photos 1, 2 and 3). The face of the
crosspieces should be flush with the
outside edges of the legs, so be careful
not to cut past your layout lines.
Three of the crosspieces fit into
notches and are flush with the out-
side edge of the legs, but the top front
crosspiece is shorter and fits between
the front legs. The top crosspieces also
feature an arc profile cut along the
bottom edge. Bend a flexible piece of
scrap wood or metal to lay out the
arcs (photo 4; see illustration, p. 12,
for arc-layout details). Then cut along
the layout lines and sand the arcs
smooth. (Note: Before assembling any
of the parts, I prefer to sand them
smooth using 100- and 150-grit sand-
paper. The pieces are easier to sand
individually, and this way when the
project is fully assembled, I only have
to give it a quick final sanding before
applying finish.)
Bottom
crosspiece
Bottom
side brace
Top edges are aligned
Attach the seat and step
boards. Carefully lay out
the screw locations to
align with the side braces
and crosspieces.
15 HANDY f e b r u a r y / Ma r c h 2 0 1 0
SOURCES ONLINE
For online information, go to www.HandymanClub.com
and click on WEB EXTRAS.
Attach the two back crosspieces to the back legs and
attach the bottom crosspiece to the front legs with glue and
1-1/4-in. wood screws (photo 5). Make sure the parts are
square. Drill a pilot and countersink hole for each screw. If
you plan to conceal the screwheads with wood plugs, drill
roughly 1/4-in.-deep counterbore holes.
The side brace pieces connect the front and back legs.
Cut the back end of the bottom braces to 6 degrees and the
front end to 22-1/2 degrees. Only the back end of the top
braces is mitered. Cut the back end of the top braces to 6
degrees and cut the front end square.
Attach the top front crosspiece to the top side braces.
One screw in each joint is sufficient for these connec-
tions. Then clamp the top braces to the leg assemblies,
aligning the top edges of the side braces with the top
edges of the legs. Position the legs upright on a flat sur-
face and adjust them so that all of the legs contact the
surface. Drill pilot holes and attach the braces with glue
and 1-1/4-in. screws. Then tip the legs on their sides and
attach the bottom side braces (photo 6). Align the top
edge of each bottom side brace flush with the top edge of
the front bottom crosspiece. Attach the side braces with
glue and 1-1/4-in. screws.
The seat and step are made from one 1x3 and one 1x6.
Use the detail illustrations, p. 12, to lay out the wide seat
and wide step patterns. Use the same flexible scrap that
you used to lay out the crosspiece arcs to shape the seat
and step arc profiles. Cut out each piece and sand the pro-
files smooth. Then attach the seat and step boards to the
Rockler
(Self-Centering Plug Cutter Set, No. 39817), 800-279-4441,
www.rockler.com
8. Most plug cutters must be mounted in a drill press, but this model works well in portable drills (see SOURCES ONLINE).
9. Use a flathead screwdriver to pop the plugs free.
10. Apply a small amount of glue to the edges of each hole and tap in the plugs. Trim the plugs flush.
side braces and crosspieces with 1-5/8-in. wood screws
(photo 7).
Exposed screwheads are acceptable on outdoor furni-
ture, but they should be concealed on interior pieces. If
you plan to paint your stool, you can cover the screw-
heads with paintable wood filler and sand them smooth
before painting. I planned to use a clear finish, so I cut
wood plugs to conceal the screwheads. I used a plug cut-
ter to cut the plugs from the same wood that I used to
make the stool (photos 8, 9 and 10) and carefully ori-
ented the grain on the plugs with the surrounding grain.
Another option is to use a different wood species for the
plugs so they stand out as a decorative accent on the fin-
ished stool.
The final steps are to trim the plugs flush, sand the
project and apply the finish. Use a flush-cut saw or a
sharp chisel to trim the plugs and then sand them flush
with the surrounding wood. If you sanded the parts as
you made them, a quick once-over with 220-grit sandpa-
per should be all thats necessary before you apply finish.
I wiped on several coats of oil-base polyurethane; you can
use the finish of your choice. u
Making and installing wood plugs
Plug cutter