Fruit/Vegetables HO-125-W
Department of Horticulture
Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service West Lafayette, IN
Storing Vegetables and Fruits at Home
B. Rosie Lerner and Michael N. Dana
Remember Grandmas root cellar, which yielded crisp
fruits and vegetables all winter long? Even though
modern housing and central heating have pretty much
done away with yesterdays deep, dark cellars, you can
still store fruits and vegetables at home without refrigeration.
Many fruits and vegetables picked in their prime can be
stored in basements, cellars, out-buildings, and pits so
long as adequate ventilation to allow cold outdoor air
inside is provided. The storage areas described here are
practical only where the average winter temperatures are
below freezing from mid-November to mid-March.
Conditions Necessary for Storage
Store only fresh, sound produce that is free from cuts,
cracks, bruises, or other insect or mechanical injury. If
any damaged, insect-infested, or diseased specimens
are placed in storage, they could damage the entire
supply. Handle produce carefully to prevent any mechanical damage. When harvesting and storing, use only
containers that have smooth inner surfaces, free from
any protrusions such as wire staples or splinters. Standard apple boxes and lug boxes for shipping tomatoes
and grapes are good storage containers.
Vegetables should have as little field heat as possible
when they are placed in storage. Harvest early in early
morning on a cool day or let crops cool outdoors overnight before placing them in storage. Waxing vegetables
is not recommended for home storage. The amount of
wax to apply is critical and is difficult for the home
gardener to control.
Keep your storage facilities clean. Get rid of any vegetables that show signs of decay or damage. Remove all
containers from storage facilities at least once a year,
and clean and air them in the sun. This is best done in
early spring when old vegetables are being discarded,
and in late fall when you are ready to store your new
seasons crop.
Reviewed 5/01
Temperature and Humidity
Maintaining proper temperature will do much toward
lengthening the time the produce can be stored (Table 1).
In a large storage area or storage rooms, place one
thermometer in the coldest location of the room and the
other outdoors. Outdoor temperatures well below 32F
are needed to cool storage air to 32F and to maintain
that temperature. Once cooled to 32F, the temperature
will rise again if ventilators are closed, even though
outdoor temperature is about 25F. Close ventilators
tightly whenever the outdoor temperature is higher than
the storage temperature. Also be careful that produce
doesnt freeze during extremely cold weather.
Correct humidity levels maintain produce freshness and
prevent excessive shriveling. A simple humidity gauge
available at most hardware stores can be used to monitor
relative humidity. Humidity can be elevated by sprinkling
the floor of the storage area frequently, by placing large
pans of water under fresh-air intake vents, or by covering
the floor with wet materials such as straw or odorless
sawdust. However, these methods will not produce
enough humidity for root crop storage. The easiest and
most efficient way to control moisture loss is to place
produce in polyethylene bags or box liners. Be sure they
have several 1/4 to 3/8-inch holes in the sides to permit
ventilation. If moisture collects on the inside of the bag,
punch a few more holes. See Table 1 for recommended
humidity levels.
Home Basements
Most home basements which contain a furnace are too
warm for storing fruits and vegetables. However, such
location are ideal for ripening tomatoes and for short-term
storage of potatoes, sweet potatoes, and onions.
For short-term storage (3-6 weeks) or ripening, partition
off a north or east side of the basement, preferably one
without heating pipes or ducts. Choose a location with at
least one window for cooling, but prevent light from
coming in the windows during the storage period.
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Page 1 of 5
Fruit/Vegetables HO-125-W
Fruits, particularly apples and pears, should be stored in
a separate area from vegetables. These fruits give off
relatively large amounts of ethylene gas which could
damage vegetables. Fruits may also absorb odors from
such vegetables as potatoes and turnips.
Store the fruits and vegetables on shelves or removable
slatted flooring. Fruits and vegetables can also be stored
in wooden crates and boxes or wooden bins.
Some homes have unheated basements with dirt floors
which are ideal for storage. An outdoor entrance or
window will aid ventilation.
Figure 1. Cone-shaped pit showing details of construction.
Pits
Late Cabbage
A cone-shaped pit can be constructed to store small
amounts of vegetables such as potatoes, carrots, beets,
turnips, salsify, parsnips, and cabbage (Figure 1). Such
structures can also be used for storing winter apples and
pears.
Construct the pit at ground level or dig a hole 6-8 inches
deep in a well-drained location. Place or spread a layer of
straw, leaves, or other bedding material on the ground.
Then stack the fruits or vegetables on the bedding in the
cone-shaped pile. Never store fruits and vegetables in
the same pit. Cover the entire amount of produce with
more bedding material and then cover the entire pile with
3-4 inches of soil. Firm the soil with the back of a shovel
to make the pit waterproof. Finish by digging a shallow
drainage ditch around the pit. Be sure the water drains
away from the pit.
With small pits, allow the bedding material over the
vegetables to extend through the soil at the top of the pile
for ventilation. Cover the top of the pile with a board or
piece of sheet metal to protect the produce. A stone or
heavy object should be used to weight down the cover.
In large pits, place 2-3 boards or stakes up through the
center of the pile of fruits or vegetables to form a flue.
Cap the flue with two pieces of board nailed together at
right angles.
Cabbage may be stored in outdoor storage cellars, in
cone-shaped pits (Figure 1), or in long pits (Figure 2).
The advantage of long pits over cone-shaped pits is that
you can remove a few heads of cabbage from a long pit
without disturbing the rest of the produce.
To store cabbages in a long pit, pull the plants out by the
roots, place them head down in the pit, and cover them
with soil.
You can also store cabbage in a shallow trench that is
framed with stakes or poles and covered with straw
(Figure 3). To store cabbage this way, pull the plants out
by the roots and set them side by side with their roots in
the trench. After you put the plants in the trench, pack
soil around the roots. Then build a frame about 2 feet
high around the trench. The frame may be made of
boards or poles or of stakes driven into the ground. Next,
bank soil around the frame. Finally, place poles across
the top of the frame to hold a covering of straw, hay, or
corn fodder.
Heads of cabbage may also be stored on shelves in an
outdoor storage cellar. Do not keep them in your basement, because cabbage odor is likely to spread through
the house.
Produce stored in this type of pit must all be removed
once the pit is opened during cold weather, particularly
when the soil is frozen. For this reason, it is better to
construct several small pits rather than one large one.
When constructing small pits, place a small quantity of
several different vegetables in each pit. Then you need
open only one pit to get a variety of vegetables. When
several vegetables are stored in the same pit, separate
them with straws or leaves.
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Figure 2. Cabbages are placed head down in a long pit.
Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service
Reviewed 5/01
Fruit/Vegetables HO-125-W
Spread a bushel basket or so full of dry leaves over
the hardware cloth. This should make 3-4 inches on
insulation. Cover with a waterproof lid.
An old, large size tub, which will keep out water but
not hold water, may be used for 18 to 20-inch diameter tile. Old covers from brooder stoves, especially
constructed wood, or metal covers may be used. The
head space above the insulation should be at least 4
inches.
Figure 3. Cabbages are placed upright in a trench that is
framed with stakes and covered with straw.
Tile Storage
Tile storage will function in any well-drained outdoor area
or where a basement can be excavated. The tile should
be located away from possible overflow water from
downspouts or eaves and where the area will be shaded
in summer and winter. The shade may be from a north
location or under some low overhanging shrubs. For
convenience, located the storage near the kitchen door.
Tile size may vary from 18 x 30 inches, inside diameter
and depth, to 24 x 24 inches or larger if available. When
bushel basket containers are used, the 18-30 size (3
bushel) is most economical, while the 24 x 24 size (6.5
bushel) is best adapted for bulk.
November Through May
The tile storage may be opened at any time. Lift back the
lid, grasp one corner of the hardware cloth and lift back,
exposing the produce. Two long-handled hooks may be
made from heavy wire and used to lift baskets from the
tile or to lift out open mesh sacks when they are used. To
reseal the storage, let the hardware cloth drop, evenly
redistribute the insulation, and press the cover down
tight. Now and then it may be necessary to weight down
the lid. Fruits and vegetables have been kept in crisp
condition as late as June, although the recommended
season is from November through May.
Drain Tile is Best
Drain tile is best adapted for storing those fruits and
vegetables which require a cool, moist place (Figure 4).
Other types of tile may also be used. Metal conducts
heat and cold. Wood may rot and the odor be absorbed
by the stored fruits or vegetables. If more than one tile is
desired, space them 2 feet apart.
Six Points for Good Tile Storage
Dig a hole just large enough to let the tile fit snugly.
Use a measuring stick for determining the outside
diameter, and hold to that size. The hole should be
dug 6 inches deeper than the length of the tile.
After the hole is dug, place three standard size bricks
(divide area into thirds) on ends, flat side to the wall,
countersink if necessary, for a base. This will leave 8
inches of exposed soil below the tile. Lower the tile
into the hole. Mound the soil up to the lip of the tile
from the excavated soil.
For proper aeration under the bottom basket, or
bulked produce, a few shovelsful of coarse drainage
material is placed in the bottom of the hole. The
storage is now ready after pre-cooling. Do not place
warm vegetables in the cooled tile because they will
raise the temperature.
Over the top of the tile lay a 36 x 36 inch square
piece of 1/2-inch hardware cloth or gravel screen.
This is to provide aeration, keep out rodents, and to
prevent the insulating material from falling on top of
the produce.
Reviewed 5/01
Figure 4. A 24- by 24-inch tile will store about 6.5 bushels.
Other Storage Methods
A second refrigerator is a reliable alternative produce
preservation method. While this involves increased cost
of operation, efficiency is high if the refrigerator is opened
infrequently. Also, a location in a garage or other unheated area will mean minimal electric costs during the
winter.
A traditional cellar, separate from the house, is another
option. Substantial costs of construction are usually
involved, however, and such investment may be more
wisely made in conveniently accessible basement
storage.
Variations on in-ground storage include the use of a
discarded barrel or plastic or metal garbage can sunk into
the ground. Use of straw and plastic bags around produce for additional insulation and to prevent odor absorption is suggested. Some vegetables such as horseradish
can be left in the garden and dug as needed until the soil
freezes deeply. A 6 to 8-inch mulch layer will help delay
deep freezing.
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Fruit/Vegetables HO-125-W
Table 1. Storage for Vegetables and Fruits
Freezing
point
(F)
Temperature
(F)
Relative
humidity
(%)
Length of
storage
Artichoke, Jerusalem
Asparagus
Bean & Pea, dry1
Bean, Green or Snap
Bean, Lima
30.9
30.7
31.0
31-32
32-36
32-40
40-45
32-40
90-95
95
65-70
90-95
90
2-5 months
2-3 weeks
1 year
7-10 days
1-2 weeks
Beet (topped)
Broccoli
Brussels Sprout
Cabbage, late
Cabbage, Chinese
30.3
30.9
30.5
30.4
32
32
32
32
32
95
90-95
90-95
90-95
90-95
3-5 months
10-14 days
3-5 weeks
3-4 months
1-2 months
Carrot (topped)
Cauliflower
Celeriac
Celery
Collard
29.5
30.6
30.3
31.1
30.6
32
32
32
32
32
90-95
90-95
90-95
90-95
90-95
4-5 months
2-4 weeks
3-4 months
2-3 months
10-14 days
Corn, Sweet
Cucumber
Eggplant
Endive & Escarole
Garlic, dry
30.9
31.1
30.6
31.9
30.5
32
45-50
45-50
32
32
90-95
90-95
90
90-95
65-70
4-8 days
10-14 days
1 week
2-3 weeks
6-7 months
Horseradish
Kale
Kohlrabi
Leek
Lettuce
28.7
31.1
30.2
30.7
31.7
30-32
32
32
32
32
90-95
90-95
90-95
90-95
95
10-12 months
10-14 days
2-4 weeks
1-3 months
2-3 weeks
Melon, Muskmelon
(Cantaloupe)
Melon, Honeydew
Melon, Watermelon
Mushroom
29.9
30.3
31.3
30.4
32-40
45-50
40-50
32
85-90
85-90
80-85
90
5-14 days
3-4 weeks
2-3 weeks
3-4 days
Okra
Onion, dry
Onion, green
Parsley
Parsnip
28.7
30.6
30.4
30.0
30.4
45-50
32
32
32
32
90-95
65-70
90-95
90-95
90-95
7-10 days
1-8 months
3-5 days
1-2 months
2-6 months
Pea, Green
Pepper, dry
Pepper, Sweet
Potato, late
Pumpkin
30.9
30.7
30.9
30.5
32
32-50
45-50
40-45
50-55
90-95
60-70
90-95
90
70-75
1-3 weeks
6 months
2-3 weeks
2-9 months
2-3 months
Radish
Rhubarb
Rutabaga
Salsify
Spinach
30.7
30.3
30.1
30.0
31.5
32
32
32
32
32
90-95
95
90-95
90-95
90-95
3-4 weeks
2-4 weeks
2-4 months
2-4 months
10-14 days
Commodity
Vegetables
To protect from insect damage, freeze for 3-4 days at 0F or heat to 180F for 15-20 minutes. Store in a sealed glass jar.
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Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service
Reviewed 5/01
Fruit/Vegetables HO-125-W
Table 1. Storage for Vegetables and Fruits
Freezing
point
(F)
Temperature
(F)
Relative
humidity
(%)
Length of
storage
31.1
30.5
32-50
50-55
90
50-75
5-14 days
2-6 months
31.0
31.1
30.1
55-70
45-50
32
85-90
85-90
90-95
1-6 weeks
4-10 days
4-5 months
Apple
Apricot
Blackberry
Blueberry
29.3
30.1
30.5
29.7
30-40
31-32
31-32
31-32
90
90
90-95
90-95
3-8 months
1-2 weeks
2-3 days
2 weeks
Cherry, Sour
Cherry, Sweet
Grapefruit
Grape
Orange
29.0
28.8
30.0
29.7
30.5
32
30-31
40-50
31-32
32-40
90-95
85-90
85-90
85
85-90
3-7 days
2-3 weeks
4-6 weeks
2-8 weeks
3-10 weeks
Peach
Pear
Plum
Raspberry
Strawberry
30.3
29.2
30.5
30.0
30.6
31-32
29-31
31-32
31-32
32
90
90-95
90-95
90-95
90-95
2-4 weeks
2-4 months
2-4 weeks
2-4 days
5-7 days
Commodity
Squash, Summer
Squash, Winter
Tomato
Green, mature
Colored, firm
Turnip
Fruits
For more information on the subject discussed in this
publication, consult your local office of the Purdue University
Cooperative Extension Service.
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