DAY

SPREADING

2-
Factors of spreading:

Fabric direction:

SECT
Before spreading the direction of the fabric have to be right. The direction could be
top to bottom or bottom to. It specially matter where the fabric has likes velvet or the
fabric has shine like shiny fabric. If the fabric is cut into two different direction then if
may happen that the garment has two different look on light reflection.

ION:
Alignment:
The alignment is important factor for spreading. The lay of fabric should be closed by
clamp or attached by spick to maintain the alignment point to point. The grain line of
the fabric should be considered.

1
Matching checks and strips:
If checked and stripe of a fabric are not matched it could be the cause of rejection of
the garment. Before cutting it has to be made sure that the checked and strips of cut

SPRE
panel are checked and matched.

Techniques of spreading:

Face to back
Face to back or back to face

ADIN
Face to face and back to back

G
AND
CUT
Spreading starts at one end of the table on each ply

Spreading Mode; Open Fabric, Face One Way, Nap UP and Down

TING
(F/O/W, N/U/D

Spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is cut at the far end, rotated 180 degrees,
and then spread to the beginning. The Fabric is cut and rotated 180 degrees then the
process is repeated.

Spreading Mode; Open Fabric, Face to Face, Nap One Way (F/F, N/O/W)

Spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is cut at the far end, the roll is brought to
the beginning of the table, rotated 180 degrees, then spread to the far end again. The
Fabric is cut at the far end, brought back to the beginning of the table, rotated 180 degrees
then the process is repeated.

Spreading Mode; Open Fabric, Face to Face, Nap Up and Down (F/F, N/U/D)
Spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is folded over at the far end, then
spreading continues back to the beginning of the table. The Fabric is folded over then the
process is repeated.

Spreading Mode; Folded Fabric, Face to Face, Nap One Way (F/F, N/O/W)

Folded fabric spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is cut at the far end, then
returned to the beginning. Then the process is repeated. On the control side of the table
the Fold is superimposed one layer on the previous layer.

This process is also used on tubular rolled fabric

Spreading Mode; Folded Fabric, Face to Face, Nap Up and Down (F/F, N/U/D)
 Cutting
Fabric has to be cut before it can be made into a garment. Making garments can be swift
and fast as mentioned in the previous section. But, even if the systems are working at the
optimum at all times, the output of the line i.e., the number of garments that are produced
by the line in a given day, is more or less fixed. One day, the lines might make a few pieces
more. On other days, they might fall short by a few pieces. The deviations would be
narrow and on an average, the output for the day would be the same. Thus, to be able to
produce consistently, the lines would need to have a constant and timely supply of cut
garments from the cutting room. Thus, the efficiency of the cutting room becomes even the
more important. The cutting room would have to remain on top always. If the cutting room
is efficient, the lines can easily meet their daily targets. It is the cutting room that keeps
everything ready before a garment is made by the line. In other words, all the preparatory
work is done by the cutting room. It checks the fabric, does the lay lot planning, lays the
fabric, makes the marker, cuts the cloth, does the ticketing, sends the cut pieces for
embroidery or printing, sends other cut pieces for fusing and finally, does the bundling of
the cut pieces before introducing it to the line. Thus, without the efficiency of the cutting
room, the efficiency of the whole plant would suffer.

Factors in the cutting room:

Since recent past, the clothiers have begun to pay attention to fabric cost.
Fabric cost of a garment is about 55-60% of the total cost of the garment.
If the industry is competing basically on price, it becomes of paramount importance, that
fabric savings are introduced.
Experience has revealed that 2% to5% savings on fabric can be very significant saving in
the garment cost.
 Activities in cutting room in clothing industry:

Fabric inspection
Planning (cut plan) according to shipment schedule
Fabric, interlining, lining receive from store as per the plan
Approved pattern receive from pattern section/PDS
Manual marker generation or marker receive from store as per the plan
Approved pattern receive from pattern section/PDS
Manual marker generation or marker receive from CAD
Spreading as per cut plan
Cutting
Bundling
Numbering
Cut plan checking
Racking (cut fabric sorting)
Fusing, embroidery, printing
Cut fabric issue/ Supply in sewing floor

Organogram of cutting room:

Cutting Room
 Manager/In charge

Asst. manager cutting

Room

Cutting Room Executive

CAD Room in Charge Supervisor Pattern in Charge

CAD Room in Charge Pattern Master

Assistant Pattern Maker

Marker man Spreader Cutter Assistant Issue Record

assistant Assistant keeper

DAY 1: MODULE 2: TUESDAY

AIM: This module develops competency to get acquaintance and understanding of cutting and
technical knowledge of cutting.
Sl. No.Topics Time Tools/ Equipment/ Teaching method
duration Props
1 Introduction to spreading & 1 hr Theory PPT/Flipchart,
cutting flash cards, images
2 Pattern making 1hr Theory and practical PPTs/Flipchart,
Marker making flash cards, images
3 Mode of spreading 1/2hr Theory PPTs/Flipchart,
flash cards, images
4 Machine used in spreading 1.5hr Theory and practical PPTs/Flipchart,
Machine used in cutting flash cards,mages
5 Cutting as per pattern 1hr Theory PPTs/Flipchart,
Cutting plan as per customer flash cards, images
orders and size wise
6 Arrange fabric from store 15 min Theory PPTs/Flipchart,
Layer as per plan flash cards, images
Cutting as per pattern

7 Numbering and bundling 15 min Theory PPTs/Flipchart,

flash cards, images
8 Arrangement of approved sample30 min Theory PPTs/Flipchart,
Arrangement of trim card flash cards, images
Arrangement of accessories
Arrangement of raw cutting from
cutting

9 Teach each worker each 1hr Theory PPTs/Flipchart,

operation flash cards, images
Instruct to Set the machine layout
as per garment operation
10 Balance of line 1hr Theory and practical /Flipchart, flash
Check each operation as per cards, images
approved sample
Set the target of each operation
Achieve the target
 1. Introduction to spreading & cutting
Cutting involves three basic operations: making the marker, spreading the fabric, and chopping
the spread fabric into the marked sections. The marker, or cutting lay, is the arrangement of
patterns on the spread fabrics. When hides are cut, the lay length is the hide size; many hides
are cut in single plies. Short lengths are spread by hand, but large lays, made from large bolts of
material, range in length to over 100 feet (30 metres) and heights containing hundreds of plies
and must be spread with traveling spreading machines. Stationary spreaders are used for small
sample lots. Manual and semiautomatic spreading machines are propelled manually over the
lay length as the machine feeds the fabric ply onto the cutting table. Some machines book-fold
the successive plies as the fabric is spread; others have turntable devices permitting one-way
spreads. Lays may be spread either with all plies of fabric facing one way or with successive
plies facing each other in face-to-face spreads.

2. Understanding the basic at Cutting room

i) Material Movement

ii) Material Storage

iii) Fabric checking stickers
Workers Manual
For
Cutting
Department
 Cutting room Machines and tools:

Fabric inspection machine

Pattern

Marker
Tracing paper
 Cutting table

Auto spreader

Scissors
 Cutting machine:

Straight knife

Band knife

Round knife
 Other Cutting Equipment

Die press cutter

Hot notcher
Computer controlled cutting machine
Drill machine

Safety Measures

Metal glove

Bundle card
Numbering machine
Rack
Resister book
 Their cutting room has block fusing capabilities and experience with a wide variety of
fabrics and patterns including:

Knits
Polyester
Wool
Rayon
Cotton
Lycra
Spandex
Blends
Plaids
Stripes
checks

Working closely with our apparel pattern makers, our garment cutting room strives to
produce the highest yield per yard of fabric so you incur as little textile waste as possible.

Potential savings in cutting room:

There are some areas in which there are normally potentially savings. They are as
followings:

Cutting order planning

How much the fabric will be cut pieces required to run sewing, matching dead line.

Fabric faults
Marker efficiency
Pattern engineering
Match the color shade of garment
Remnant waste
Cut plan:

Cut plan is very important. For cut order planning in the apparel industry, the problem
begins with a given set of garments, in varying sizes, to be manufactured. A plan is needed
for spreading the fabric and dividing the garments into various sections of the spread so as
to minimize fabric waste and the cost of cutting, but still satis the customers order. The cut
is performed by spreading fabric onto a table, often spreading several layers of fabric for
cutting efficiency (See Figure at right). The actual lay out of the pattern pieces are called a
marker.

The key inputs for the cut order planning problem are the sizes to be cut in each section,
ply height in each section and the number of sections required to fill the order. The size
combinations per section are passed to the marker making function for actual determination
of the marker itself Additional output is the estimated efficiency of the marker.

Patten making:

Patterns are the building blocks of a garment. Without them, constructing garments would
be impossible. Patterns help convert a flat, two-dimensional cloth into a shapely, three-
dimensional garment. Thus, making patterns would require skill and a sound knowledge.

Marker generation:

Marker is a set of pattern laid on a sheet of paper in an organized manner and marked
according to the pattern shape and size to cut a fabric lay of the fabric, so the fabric fallout
(fabric wastage) could be minimized.
 Types of marker:

I Single garment marker

AI Single size two or more garment marker
BI Ratio marker
Here are shown some markers.

Marker: Open, Nap One Way (N/O/W);

Spread: Face One Way, Nap One Way (F/O/W N/O/W for

Highest Quality, Low Efficiency, Slow Spreading

Marker: Open, Nap Either Way (N/E/W);

Spread: Face One Way, Nap Up and Down (F/O/W N/U/D)

Medium Quality, Medium Efficiency, Faster Spreading

 Marker: Open, Nap Either Way (N/E/W); Spread: Face to Face, Nap Up and Down (F/F
N/U/D)

Low Quality, Medium Efficiency Faster Spreading

Marker: Closed, Nap One Way (N/O/W);

Spread: Folded and Rolled, Face to Face, Nap One Way (F/F N/O/W)

Medium Quality, Low Efficiency, Slower Spreading

Marker: Closed, Nap Up and Down (N/U/D)

Spread: Folded and Rolled, Face to Face, Nap One Way (F/F N/O/W)
FUNCTIONS OF CUTTING DEPARTMENT IN GARMENT INDUSTRY

Cutting department is responsible for cutting fabrics and feeding the sewing department
with cuttings. The cutting departments capacity is planned based on the daily feeding
requirement of the sewing lines. The cutting department is set up with a cutting
department head, cutters, spreaders, quality checkers and helpers for sorting, ply
numbering and bundling. The activities of the cutting department are explained in this
post.

1. Take fabric from the fabric store:

The cutting department gets a cut order from the production manager. According to the
cutting plan, the cutting in-charge generates a fabric requirement sheet or requisition slip
to the fabric store to issue fabrics.

Cutting department

2. Relaxation of fabrics:

Knitted fabrics require relaxation before cutting. After receiving the fabric from the fabric
store, the cutting department opens the fabric from the fabric roll and lays it on the table
for relaxation for some hours before cutting. Factories also relax fabric in the fabric store
overnight after opening the fabric rolls.
3. Cut order planning:

Cutting master plan the number of markers they need to prepare, the size combination to
be set for each marker and the number of plies to be laid in each marker.

4. Fabric Spreading/ layering:

In mass production, multiple layers of fabric are cut at the same time. So spreaders lay
fabric on a cutting table as per total marker length. The layer height is kept up to a certain
inch.

5. Planning markers:

The cutting master plans marker ways, marker lengths and the numbers of plies to be laid
in each lay.

6. Making markers:

This is a process of making an outline of garment patterns on the lay for cutting garment
components. After layering, the marker paper is laid on the top of the layer. Those
factories that dont have CAD markers make markers manually using paper patterns.

7. Cutting fabrics:

After making the marker, garment patterns are cut and taken out from the layer. Various
technologies are used for cutting fabric layers, such as straight knife cutting, band knife
machine cutting and a computer-controlled automatic cutting machine.

8. Sorting, bundling and numbering of garment plies (parts):

After cutting the fabric, layers are sorted size-wise and colour-wise. Each ply is numbered
using stickers. Bundles are kept on inventory tables, before these are sent to undergo the
next process.

9. Inspecting cut components:

To maintain the cutting quality, standard cutting components are checked randomly by
quality checkers. If defective components are found, they replace those defective parts.
10. Sorting printed and embroidery panels:

As per order requirements, printing and embroidery is done on cut panels. Size-wise
sorting is done after receiving printed and embroidered panels. The checking of printed
and embroidered panels is also done by the cutting department.

11. Re-cutting panels:

Re-cutting is done for garment components that require to be replaced in bundles. Re-
cutting requests are received from the sewing department for defective garment parts. Re-
cutting is also done for block panels cut for the printing and embroidery processes. After
receiving garment panels from the printer or embroiderer, these panels are reshaped.

12. Fusing garment components:

Fusing in garment components is done to stiffen parts of a garment. If needed, fusing is

done at the cutting section (e.g. fusing of the collar and cuff components of formal shirts)

OPERATION PROCESS- MANUALLY

PREPARING THE FABRIC FOR CUTTING

Preshrink all fabric and notions (with the exception of thread and closures) before
cutting.

Notions such as trim, zippers, and some interfacings should also be pre-shrunk.
Straighten fabric ends to coincide with the crosswise threads by snipping close to the
selvage and pulling a crosswise thread until it puckers across the width of the fabric.

Cut along the puckered line, this gives a straight grain to begin working from.

Some sturdy fabrics may be ripped across the width to find the crosswise grain. This
ripping process must be a quick, smooth motion, or the fabric will rip down the
lengthwise grain as well.

Not all fabrics will tear, so the most accurate, albeit the most time consuming method, is
to pull a thread.
 Fabric is on grain when the crosswise and lengthwise threads are at a perfect right (90
degree) angle to each other. To determine if your fabric is on grain lay it out on a cutting
table aligning a large corner of the fabric with the corner of the table. If the corners do not
match, the fabric must be realigned. If the fabric is only slightly off grain fold the fabric
in half, pinning the selvages together every two or three inches and steam press threads
into proper alignment.

If your fabric is very off grain, it can be straightened by stretching and pulling the fabric
in the opposite direction from the way the ends slant until a perfect right angle corner is
formed.

Lightly press the fabric to remove the bolt fold line and any wrinkles present.

LAYERING OR SPREADING PROCESS

A layout is a plan for the placement of pattern pieces on the fabric.

These are based on pattern size, fabric width, and type of fabric (napped, one-way
design, etc.).

After deciding on a layout view for the pattern size and fabric width, circle it so it is
easy to see.

Then, look carefully at the layout to find if the fabric is folded, is it lengthwise or
crosswise or a combination of the two.
Laying out the pattern pieces in preparation for cutting the garment.:

Lay out all pattern pieces before cutting. Commercial patterns have a lay out guide for
each view and size. Consult this before beginning. Before Cutting Lay out all pieces
correctly otherwise it may result in shortage of fabric.

Place pattern pieces printed side UP unless otherwise indicated.

Pin first the lengthwise and crosswise grainlines and foldline. Each grain line must be
checked by measuring from the grainline to the selvage edge of the fabric at top and
bottom of the grain line.

Place the pins perpendicular to and about 1/4" inside the cutting line. At corners, place
the pins diagonally. Space the pins two to three inches apart and in case of very slippery
or sheer fabrics make it closer.

As often as possible, cut directionally with the grain.

Never lift the fabric from the table. Keep one hand flat on the pattern piece while
cutting.

Cut the garments out with long, steady strokes.

 Cut each pattern piece the correct number of times. Pockets, facings, cuffs, welts, etc.
may need to be cut multiple times.
Save fabric scraps from cutting, these pieces may be necessary for plackets,
buttonholes, etc. or can be used to test tension, press-ability, etc.

Fold the cut pieces softly and lay on a flat surface. Do not bunch the pattern and fabric
pieces up, as the pattern may come off before all markings have been transferred.

Operation Process for Computerized knife machine:

1 Set up the Machine

Inspect the work area is free from hazards as per the safety norm of the
organization functions
Obtain and check the data on the job card and carry out in line with the
responsibilities of the job role.
Calculate the number of components needed for production
Agree and review the agreed upon work targets with the supervisor
Set up the machine
2 Operate the machine as per the requirement and Load the fabric for cutting
Ensure no defects on the material before going ahead for cutting
Determine the mechanisms of the machine and make sure that the motors
along with the cutting knife functions well, before the actual bulk cutting takes
place. Meet company usage tolerances for efficient pattern interlocking
Check with others when unsure of new product details Make sure when
cutting the material

3 Put cut components off the table and bundle in groups

Identify the cut parts, count tickets and then group them well to pass on to the
next department
Ensure the bundled tickets have all the necessary information
Dispose of waste materials safely and return reusable materials
Report defects in the machine one does not have the authority to repair
Report risks/problems likely to affect services to the relevant person promptly
and accurately
Complete forms, records and other documentation.
CUTTING MACHINERIES AND EQUIPMENT FOR GARMENT
MANUFACTURING

In the majority of cutting rooms today, the cutting process makes use of hand shears, a
mechanized knife blade in one of the several possible types, or a die press which stamps out
the garment shape. Some of the methods currently in use are described below.

Hand Shears

Hand shears are normally used when cutting only single or double plies. The lower blade of
the shears passes under the plies, and some distortion of the fabric might occur which can be
avoided with practice. Both left handed and right handed shears are available for left or right
handed people. The major disadvantage of the method lies in the time it consumes and the
consequent high labour cost per garment, but it is appropriate for made to measure garments.

Straight Knife

A straight knife is used where the quantities for cutting do not justify purchase of a computer-
controlled cutter. The elements of a straight knife consist of a base plate, usually on rollers for
ease of movement, an upright or a standard carrying a straight, vertical blade with varying
edge characteristics and an electric motor above it, a handle for the cutter to direct the blade,
and a sharpening device. The base plate on its rollers slides under the glazed paper which is
spread below the bottom ply of fabric in a lay. Normally, available blades heights vary from
10 cm to 33 cm and strokes vary from 2.5 cm to 4.5 cm. The greater the blade movement, the
faster the blade cuts the fabric and the more rapidly and easily the operator can push the
machine.

The straight knife is a common means of cutting lays in conventional cutting rooms
because it is versatile, portable, cheaper than a band knife, more accurate on curves than a
round knife and relatively reliable and easy to maintain. Even if a band knife is used for the
main cutting operation, a straight knife would be used to separate the lay into sections for
easier handling.

Round Knife

The elements of a round knife are a base plate, above which is mounted an electric motor, a
handle for the cutter to direct the blade, and a circular blade rotating so that the leading edge
cuts downwards into the fabric. Blade diameters vary from 6 cm to 20 cm. Round knives are
not suitable for cutting curved lines in high lays because the blade does not strike all the plies
simultaneously at the same point as a vertical point does. Therefore, a round knife is used only
for straight lines or lower no of lays of relatively few plies.

Band Knife

A band knife comprises a series of three or more pulleys, powered by an electric motor, with a
continuously rotating steel blade mounted on them. One edge of the blade is sharpened. The
band knife passes through a slot in the cutting table in a fixed position and the section of the
lay to be cut is moved past it.

Band knives are used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is required than can be
obtained with a straight knife. Pieces to be cut are first cut on a block, and then cut exactly on
a band knife.

Notchers

Many garments require that notches be cut into the edges of them to enable alignment during
sewing with other garment parts. Specialized notching equipment provides greater accuracy
because a guide lines up the notcher with the cut edge to give consistent depth of notch at a
consistent right angle to the edge.
Drills and thread markers

Where reference marks are needed away from the edge of a garment part, such as for the
position of the pockets, darts and similar features, a hole is often drilled through all the plies
of fabric in the lay. The drill mounting includes a motor, a base plate with a hole to allow the
drill to pass through, and a spirit level to ensure that the base is horizontal and hence the drill
vertical. On many fabrics, the drill is used cold and the hole remains visible until the sewing
operator comes to use it. On looser weave fabrics, where the hole may close up, a hot drill is
used which will slightly scorch or fuse the edges of the hole. A hypodermic drill may be used
which leaves a small deposit of paint on each ply of fabric. If it is important that no mark
remains on the fabric, a long thread may be passed through the lay which is then cut with
scissors between each ply, leaving a few centimetres visible on each garment panel. All drill
holes must eventually be concealed by the construction of the garment.

Computer controlled cutting knives

This method provides the most accurate possible cutting, at high speed, and to keep the larger
systems fully occupied they are frequently used in a central cutting facility that supplies a
number of separate sewing factories. A typical computer cutting system has a table with a
cutting surface consisting of nylon bristles which support the fabric lays but are flexible
enough to permit penetration and movement of the knife blade which is supported only at the
top. The bristles also allow the passage of air through the table to create a vacuum, reducing
the height of the lay and holding it in place. The carriage supporting the cutting head has two
synchronised servomotors, which drive it on tracks on the edges of the table. The cutting head
contains a knife, automatic sharpener and a further servo motor which rotates the knife to
position it at a tangent to the line of cut on curves. A sheet of airtight polyethylene covers the
top of the lay, which assists the creation of a vacuum and allows significant compression of
the lay. Control cabinet houses the computer and the electrical components required to drive
the cutter, its carriage and the vacuum motor.

The spreader spreads the lay on a conventional cutting table equipped with air flotation. Paper
is spread below the bottom ply so that the lay can be moved onto the cutting table without
distortion and so that the bottom plies are supported during the cutting operation. This paper is
perforated to enable the vacuum on the cutting table to operate to compress the lay. The
cutting table does not need to be as long as the lay and its bristle surface can consist of a
conveyor which assists in the transfer of the lay, in sections, from the spreading table and of
the cut work onto the bundling tables.

Die Cutting

Die cutting involves pressing of a rigid blade through the laid fabric. The die is a knife in the
shape of the pattern periphery, including notches. Free standing dies generally fall into two
categories. They can be of strip steel, manufactured by bending the strip to the shape required
and welding the joint. These cannot be sharpened and must be replaced when worn.
Alternatively, they can be heavier gauge, forged dies which can be re-sharpened but which are
five times the price of strip steel. They provide a high standard of accuracy of cutting but,
because of the cost of the dies, they are only appropriate to situations where large quantities of
the same pattern will be cut. Die cutting also offers much faster cutting than knife cutting for
the same depth of cut. It is proportionally more economic for small parts which have a greater
periphery in relation to their area.
 FUSING MACHINE:

Multi-fusing Machine

The machines are in compliance with various industrial standards and possess following
specifications:

Offer manual, pneumatic, continuous and alternate operations

It has different sections for loading, heating, pressing and unloading functions
This durable machine has electronic temperature regulator that can be modified from
different fusing pressure
It has automatics switch off facility and also gives a signal at the right temperature for
efficient functions
Integrated with advanced cleaning system
The fusing machines are available in different versions for varied working lengths.

Continuous Fusing Machine

 Continuous Fusing Machine which is customized as per the specifications of our clients. These are
high performing, offered at industry leading price and are available with following specifications:

Continuous fusing machine for shirts' collar and cuffs with loading and unloading of pieces on
the same side
Composed by a loading section (A), one preheating and heating section (B) with electronic
temperature controls from 0 to 200C
One pressing section (C) with silicone-coated pressing cylinder and an unloading section (D)
with blades for pieces detachment.

Shuttle Machine

We have available with us a wide range of Shuttle Machine which is customized as per the
specifications of our clients. These are offered at industry leading price and are known for
following specifications:

Shuttle machine for collar and cuffs "TOP FUSING", with fused material cooling before
unloading (A)
High effective specific pressure
Heating of the lower plate to improve the banding between the fusing material and the fabric
Working plate dimensions 600x360 mm

Films & Videos

Films and videos can be used on their own or in conjunction with other training methods. To be
truly effective, training films and videos should be geared towards a specific objective. Only if
they are produced effectively, will they keep the trainees attention.

They are also effective in stimulating discussion on specific issues after the film or video is
finished. Films and videos are good training tools, but have some of the same disadvantages as a
lecture - i.e., no interaction from the trainees.

A few risks to think about - showing a film or video from an outside source may not touch on
issues directly affecting a specific company. Trainees may find the information very interesting
but irrelevant to their position in the company

Importance of video based training

Video can be utilized to illustrate how something works

Video is better at maintaining the attention of the students

Video can show real live examples and simulations

Videos can also be used to provide additional support to students

Videos are easier to access

It suits various types of content

5 Steps to make video content

Rationale for using video

Plan, strategize and design

Develop and publish

Technical aspects

Evaluate and update