GARMENT DEFECTS
Introduction
For every industry or business, to get increased sales and better name amongst consumers and fellow
companies it is important to maintain a level of quality. In the garment industry quality control is practiced right
from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished garment.
For textile and apparel industry product quality is calculated in terms of quality and standard of
Fibers,
Yarns,
Fabric construction,
Color fastness,
Surface designs
Final finished garment products.
However quality expectations for export are related to the type of customer segments and the retail outlets.
There are a number of factors on which quality fitness of garment industry is based such as – performance,
reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality of the garment. Quality needs to be defined in terms of a
particular framework of cost.
The national regulatory quality certification and international quality Programs like ISO 9000 series lay down the
broad quality parameters based on which companies maintain the export quality in the garment and apparel
industry. Here some of main fabric properties that are taken into consideration for garment manufacturing for
export basis.
Overall look of the garment.
Right formation of the garment.
Feel and fall of the garment.
Physical properties.
Color fastness of the garment.
Finishing properties.
There are certain quality related problems in garment manufacturing that should not be over looked:
Sewing defects - Like open seams, wrong stitching techniques used, same color garment, but usage of
different color threads on the garment, miss out of stitches in between, creasing of the garment,
erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some sewing defects that could occur so should be taken
care of.
Color effects - Color defects that could occur are – difference of the color of final produced garment to
the sample shown, accessories used are of wrong color combination and mismatching of dye amongst the
pieces.
Sizing defects - Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of a garment part from other, for
example- sleeves of ‘XL’ size but body of ‘L’ size. Such defects do not occur has to be seen too.
Garment defects - During manufacturing process defects could occur like faulty zippers, irregular
hemming, loose buttons, raw edges, improper button holes, uneven parts, inappropriate trimming, and
difference in fabric colors.
Defect Analysis
Various Defects (including trim defects):
Broken buttons
Broken snaps
Broken stitching
Seam Puckering
Defective snaps
Different shades within the same garment
Dropped stitches
Exposed notches
Exposed raw edges
Holes
Inoperative zipper
Loose / hanging sewing threads
Misaligned buttons and holes
Missing buttons
Needle cuts / chews
Open seams
Pulled / loose yarn
Stain
Unfinished buttonhole
Zipper too short
Seam Puckering:
Seam Puckering: Refers to the gathering of a seam
either just after sewing or after laundering causing an
unacceptable seam appearance.
Causes:
This problem arises due to uneven stretching
on to plies of fabric during sewing
Improper thread tension, wrong sewing
thread selection, dimensional instability of
the plies of fabric etc.
Remedies:
Machine feed mechanism must be better
quality
Sewing thread must be selected properly
Thread tension must be kept in limit
Drop/ Skipped Stitch
Drop stitch/Skipped stitch: Irregular stitching along the seam.
Causes:
It appears due to improper
handling of cut pieces or
machine usage.
Remedies:
Examine the setting and timing between
needle and hook or looped.
Placing of needle properly.
The tension of thread should be adjusted.
Needle size & thread size must be adjusted.
The pressure of pressure foot must be
adjusted accurately.
Wavy/ Staggered Stitching:
Wavy/staggered stitching: Stitches are not
straight.
Causes:
It appears due to improper handling of
cut pieces, faulty feed mechanism,
needle deflection or wrong needle etc.
Remedies:
Needle to be changed
Needle size and thread size should be
changed
Feed mechanism to be changed
Open seam or broken seam
Open seam or broken seam: Portion of the
garment that has not been covered by
sewing thread.
Causes:
This happens due to improper
handling of the parts of garments,
improper setting and timing between
needle and looper or hook etc.
Remedies:
Proper setting and timing between
needle and looper or hook.
Proper handling of the parts of
garments.
Uncut/ Loose Thread:
Uncut/ loose thread: Extra thread or loose thread
on seam line.
Causes:
It appears due to improper trimming or
finishing.
Remedies:
Garments finishing should be checked
properly.
Holes:
Holes: Broken holes in the fabric where you are able
to see through the fabric to the other side.
Cause:
Holes can come from fabric or it
could be caused by the
production side, either by
improper trimming or broken
needle puncturing the fabric.
Remedy:
Better inspection of fabric and cut piece.
Ensure that fabric and cut pieces that are not
up to standard are not put into line and
production is wasted. Replace not standard
cut pieces with usable ones before input.
Shading Variations within different parts
Shading Variations within different parts:
Seams appear to be lighter or darker than
the other seams surrounding it.
Causes:
It arises due to improper cutting,
bundling and numbering.
Remedies:
After cutting the garment parts must be
kept in proper bundle with number.
Seams not aligned at crossing of seams
Seams not aligned at crossing of seams: Seams
are not lined up at intersection of seams.
Cause:
Defects generally
come about either
from improper
handling of the cut
piece.
Remedy:
When these defects starts to appear at
close to 2% or 5 pieces, the production
must be informed and the operator
must re-trained in the proper usage of
the machine
