The Burgundy Wine Road GB

The Burgundy Wine Road

 La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

Welcome to a World
of Legend
T
he much-abused epithet of “living legend” for once really does apply in the case of the vineyards of
Burgundy. For over 2000 years, Burgundy has succeeded triumphantly in combining the generosity of
its soil with the ingenuity and toil of man to become a reference throughout the world.
As the writer Jean de la Varende so aptly puts it, “The grands crus of Burgundy belong to both legend and history,
possessing the splendour of the former and the authenticity of the latter”. Such a fabulous history and such fabled
wines flattering both palate and intellect surely deserve a road, a route, an itinerary of their own – and a very
special itinerary at that! An itinerary taking you to the heart of Burgundy and Burgundy wines, for it is
impossible to conceive of the one without the other. Travelling to Burgundy without exploring its vineyards is
like travelling to Rome without visiting the Capitol. By the same token, every self-respecting wine connoisseur
should, at least once in his life, make a pilgrimage to the source of his pleasure, to the cradle of the world’s finest
wines. For travellers and wine lovers alike, the Region has devised and set up a “road” which is fully worthy of its
wines. It is a route of distinction, as fine as any to be found in the world; a route divided into five itineraries
embracing all the Burgundian wine areas, from terroirs of world repute to humble local plots and parcels. These
itineraries may be explored in your car, on your bike or even on foot, as and when you please.
This magical route brings the exceptional and the extraordinary within the reach of all. It opens the door to the
world of Burgundy wine, its heritage and poetry, its landscapes and villages, its cellars and winegrowers. In
short, the route is an open invitation to discover, learn and dream.
Follow the Wine Road and see legend become reality!

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 Contents

The Road of all the Pleasures! p. 04 à 11

If there is one area where wine is an integral part of life,
that area must surely be Burgundy. As you explore the
vineyards you will at the same time “drink in” all the other
treasures of the region: heritage and history, nature and
landscapes, winegrowers and traditions, gastronomy and
the inimitable Burgundian art de vivre.

The 5 Circuits of the Wine Road p. 12 à 35

The Burgundy Wine Road (Route des Vins de Bourgogne) is divided into five routes or
itineraries, each corresponding to one of the great wine-growing area of Burgundy, and
each with its own description in the following pages:
- The Grands Crus Wine Road (Route des Grands Crus) the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune.
- The Grands Vins Wine Road (Route des Grands Vins) the Côte Chalonnaise.
- The Yonne Wine Road (Route Touristique des Vignobles de l’Yonne) the Yonne department.
- The Mâconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road (Route des Vins Mâconnais-Beaujolais) the Saône-
et-Loire department.
- The Coteaux de Pouilly-Sancerre Wine Road (Route des Coteaux de Pouilly-Sancerre) the
Nièvre department. Published by the Burgundy Regional Tourist Board (CRT Bourgogne).
Creation/Design: FTM.Presse (Fontaine-lès-Dijon, 21)
TempsRéel (Dijon, 21).
Practical Information p. 36 à 39 Photographic Credits: Alain Doire (CRT Bourgogne), BIVB
(pages 8, 14, 37, 38, 39) and Michel Joly (pages 33 and 35).
Cartography: Latitude Cartagène.
Planning your Trip Illustrations: Bernard Deubelbeiss.
Printed by Desmet-Laire (Belgium).
Translation: Barnaby Capel-Dunn.
June 2007 - ISNN: pending.

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 La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

Château du Clos de Vougeot

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History and Heritage

The Civilisation
of Wine
A
s the diplomat and writer Paul Claudel was fond
of remarking, “a great wine is not the work of
man, but the culmination of a consistent and
sophisticated tradition. More than a thousand years of history
goes into the making of an old bottle of wine”. Few parts of
the world express this notion of “wine civilisation” as well
as Burgundy. Here, wine is a founding influence, respon-
sible for shaping many a landscape, building, tradition
and mentality. So many beautiful things have been
patiently built up around, by and for wine.
In all probability introduced by the Romans, the vine
is inextricably woven into the history of Burgundy, from
the monastic communities of the Middle Ages to the
social movements of the 19th century, not forgetting
the great Dukes of Burgundy who proudly proclaimed
themselves “lords of the best wines in Christendom”.
History is present at every turning in this inspired land.
From a little wine village in the Tonnerre area to
the Château du Clos de Vougeot, from a Cistercian
storehouse to a local heritage museum dedicated to wine,
from a little dry stone cabotte, once used by winegrowers
as shelter from inclement weather, to a Town of Artistic
and Historical Interest – the past will accompany you
throughout your journey, ceaselessly calling you back to
the roots of an-ever changing civilisation.

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 La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

06 www.bourgogne-tourisme.com
Of Vineyards and Winegrowers

The Fervour
of Men
W ine is much more than a mere beverage,
it is a culture lovingly handed down from
generation to generation. While Burgundy
has always attached great importance to the situation of a
particular vineyard or cru (there are about 100 appellations
in all), the winegrower’s expertise remains a crucial element
in the complex alchemy which transforms vine into wine.
The label does not attempt to disguise the part played by
human endeavour in bringing out the best in the soil.
As you travel the length and breadth of Burgundy, a host of
wine properties and cellars will help you learn the language
of wine. The Burgundian winegrower will make it a point
of honour to transmit his passion for wine to you. Listen
to him speak of his love of the soil and the vine, of his
profession (“calling” would be a better word), of the fruit of
his labour which he extracts from the cask using a pipette.
At such moments time does indeed seem to stand still.
Away from the underground sanctuary of the cellar – scene
of the silent art of wine tasting – the festive spirit once
more asserts its place. Enjoy a convivial communal meal in
a wine domaine or at a country fair splendidly organised
by a friendly wine confraternity, take part in the famous
Saint-Vincent wine festival or a banquet marking the
safe gathering of the wine harvest. These are wonderful,
not-to-be-missed opportunities to immerse oneself in the
popular imagery of Burgundy, festive occasions celebrated
with due Burgundian pomp!

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 La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

© B.I.V.B. / MONNIER H.

© B.I.V.B. / MONNIER H.
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Gastronomy and Art of Living

Feast for
the Mind
I
n the words of Alexandre Dumas, “Wine is the
intellectual part of the meal and food merely its
material companion”. This aphorism serves as an
excellent summary of Burgundian philosophy so far as the
culinary arts are concerned. Here, gastronomy, no matter
how superb or generous, is at the service of the wine, hence
the marvellous Burgundian formula marking the beginning
of the meal “bon appétit et large soif”, which translates rather
lamely as “good eating and good drinking”!
Over and above the region’s amply merited reputation
in this respect, wine and gastronomy form part of the
values that you will regularly encounter in the course of
your journey. In Burgundy, our chefs are also our wine
ambassadors, at one with the winegrowers in their love of
the soil. They will take great pleasure in introducing you to
the world of wine, giving you the benefit of their advice
and conjuring up an old bottle reserved for a special
occasion. In short, Burgundy is a land where good food
and good wine go hand in hand – as you will have ample
opportunity to attest! A moment of pure happiness is
guaranteed, whether in the shape of a good old country
snack (for example, a slice of parsleyed ham and a glass
of red wine) in a wayside bistro, or a gastronomic feast
accompanied by a vintage wine recommended by the
wine waiter in a Michelin starred restaurant. And then of
course there is the atmosphere of conviviality and good
conversation without which no meal is ever complete.

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 La Route des Vins de Bourgogne
The Yonne Wine Road (Route Touristique des Vignobles de l’Yonne)
5 circuits around Joigny, Chablis, Auxerre,
Tonnerre and Vézelay
p. 28-31

The Coteaux de Pouilly-Sancerre

Wine Road (Route des Coteaux de
Pouilly-Sancerre). From Pouilly-sur- The Grands Crus Wine Road (Route
Loire to Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire touristique des Grands Crus de Bourgogne)
p. 32-35 The Côte de Nuits, from Dijon to Corgoloin
p. 12-15
The Grands Crus Wine Road (Route
Nolay
touristique des Grands Crus de Bourgogne)
The Côte de Beaune, from Corgoloin to Santenay
p. 16-19

The Grands Vins Wine Road (Route touris-

tique des Grands Vins). The Côte Chalonnaise,
from Santenay to Saint-Gengoux-le-National
p. 20-23

The Mâconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road (Route des Vins

Mâconnais-Beaujolais). From Saint-Gengoux-le-National
to Romanèche-Thorins
p. 24-27

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 One road, many vineyards...

In search of
Burgundy
in all its diversity
J
ust like the localities through which it passes the Burgundy Wine Road has
many facets, consisting of almost as many circuits as there are winegrowing
areas to explore. Where wine is concerned, there is much more to Burgundy
than the famous names of the Côte d’Or, and the Wine Road takes us through a
wealth of vineyards in the region’s four administrative departments – large and small,
new and old, renowned or little known, on harsh plateaux or sunny slopes.
Looking at the different itineraries one by one: the Grands Crus Wine Road leads
us to the famous slopes of the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune, with some
enticing excursions to their respective hautes côtes or back hills. As we continue south
of the Côte de Beaune, we come to the Grands Vins Wine Road with the vineyards
of the Couchois and the Côte Chalonnaise. Pushing further south, we pass through
the vineyards of the Mâconnais before ending our journey in the first outposts of the
Beaujolais. In the Yonne department, less than an hour’s drive from Paris, you can
choose between no fewer than five circuits to explore the wine areas of Joigny
(the Jovinien), Chablis (the Chablisien), Auxerre (the Auxerrois), Tonnerre (the
Tonnerrois) and Vézelay (the Vézelien). Last but not least, in the Nièvre department,
you will be able to explore the too-often overlooked vineyards of Pouilly and the
Coteaux du Giennois, along the banks of the majestic river Loire.
All these localities or terroirs, each with its distinctive character, await your visit.
The Burgundy Wine Road, consistently and clearly signposted throughout, is
liberally sprinkled with wine villages, sites of remarkable architectural beauty and
wine cellars open to visitors. Burgundy requests the pleasure of your company:
répondez s’il vous plaît!

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 La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

THE GRAND CRUS WINE ROAD

Legendary Côte de Nuits

The northern part of the Grands Crus Wine Road – Burgundy’s
Champs-Elysées – is constituted by the Côte de Nuits, stretching
from the gates of Dijon to the village of Corgolin. The names of
the villages along the way read like a roll call of the greatest red
wines in the world and include 24 of Burgundy’s 33 grands crus:
Chambertin, Clos de Vougeot, Romanée-Conti and so many
others. Welcome to the legend!

W
hile Burgundy is blessed with a large
number of quality vineyards, the
reputation it has built up over 2000
years ultimately rests with a thin strip of land from Lyon, making it the ideal departure point Grands Crus Long-Distance Footpath (Grande
stretching from north to south over a distance of for exploring the Grands Crus Wine Road. With randonnée® des Grands Crus). This parcel was
60 kilometres between Dijon and the Maranges its protected historical sector, much of it reserved replanted with Chardonnay vines in 1981. From
region on the border between the Côte-d’Or and for pedestrians, buildings representing all eras, here we drop down towards Chenôve on the
Saône-et-Loire departments. Here, we are in the parks and gardens, museums, etc., the former southern outskirts of Dijon. Tucked away behind
very heart of winegrowing Burgundy. The Côte, capital of the Dukes of Burgundy offers visitors a the concrete façade of the newer districts lies
as it is called in these parts, faces east and wide choice of things to do and see. a very picturesque old wine village, home to the
south-east and backs onto the Burgundian old winepresses of the Burgundian Dukes: two
uplands overlooking the Saône plain. It is divided AT THE GATES OF DIJON splendid screw winepresses dating from the early
into two sections: the Côte de Nuits in the north Vines were once grown in the western part of the 15th century housed in a prettily built storehouse.
and the Côte de Beaune in the south. The former town, on the hill which is in fact none other than Marsannay-la-Côte, still in the Dijon area, marks
consists of a narrow band of vineyards, 20 km the prolongation of the wine slopes. Nowadays, the official beginning of the Côte de Nuits.
long and a few hundred yards wide, situated at an there is no longer a “Côte Dijonnaise” appella- It is the only place in Burgundy where red, white
altitude of between 230 and 300 metres and on tion, but the Town Council has kept a little and rosé wines are produced under the same
often steep slopes (up to 25%). vineyard (42 ares) in the Marcs d’Or locality communal appellation.
TGV high speed train connections put Dijon above the Fontaine d’Ouche quarter (near the As we make our way south along a little road
Vosne-Romanée
only 100 minutes from Paris and 90 minutes Parc de la Combe Persil marking the start of the running parallel to the main Dijon-Beaune road

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 The grand crus wine road

(the former RN74 trunk road), we go through THE OTHER WINE AREAS OF
the pretty wine village of Couchey before THE CÔTE-D’OR
breaking our journey at Fixin. In addition to its A wine department par excellence, the Côte-
spectacular cliffs, much frequented by rock d’Or takes its name from the colour of the
climbers, and some remarkable buildings wine slopes in autumn. Most of the vines are
(churches, communal oven, washhouse), Fixin is of course to be found on the famous Côte
associated with the memory of Napoleon running from Dijon to Beaune. Most but
Bonaparte in the shape of a museum (campaign not all, for one tends to forget the existence
souvenirs of a captain of the Imperial Guard) of other, smaller vineyards whose reputation
and the Parc Noisot (statue entitled Napoleon’s is overshadowed by their distinguished
Awakening by the Dijon sculptor François Rude). neighbours on the Côte. This is the case of
The Park is named after a grognard, Napoleon’s the once prosperous Châtillonnais Wine
Dijon
name for his veteran soldiers. Before you leave Area laid low by the epidemics off the late
Fixin, make sure you find time to take a look at 19th century. A series of disastrous harvests
the Domaine de la Perrière and its 12th century then seemed to have signed the death
Cistercian manor, magnificently preserved within warrant of winegrowing in the northern part
its walled vineyard by the family to which it has of the department, but thanks to the uns-
belonged for six generations. paring efforts of a handful of enthusiasts, the
vineyards have come back from the brink in
the last 15 years. Production is now almost
IN THE LAND OF THE GREAT RED WINES
exclusively reserved for Crémant de
Once past Brochon and its Neo-Renaissance
Bourgogne (see box, page 29), and a
château, we enter the hallowed reserve of the
“Crémant Wine Road” centred on
great Burgundian red wines. The commune of
Châtillon-sur-Seine is now being planned.
Gevrey-Chambertin boasts no fewer than
Another little group of wine lovers was ins-
9 grands crus and 26 premiers crus, including trumental in breathing fresh life into the
Napoleon’s favourite wine, the famous Auxois Wine Area. Since 1991, vines have
Chambertin. Incidentally, Gevrey was the first once more graced the land between
village of the Côte to earn the right, in 1847, to Villaines-les-Prévôtes and Viserny where,
associate its name with its best cru or vineyard. over an area of 11 hectares, three grape
The château of Gevrey-Chambertin still rises varieties have been replanted (Chardonnay,
majestically from the midst of the vines, a Auxerrois, Pinot Noir) using the lyre-shaped
handsome 10th century castle which has retained training technique. The same approach has
the somewhat severe character of Burgundian been used since 1997 on ten hectares or so
Romanesque architecture and today houses a in the neighbourhood of Flavigny-sur-
wine property. A little road climbs up from the Ozerain. All this hard work has had its
village towards the Hautes Côtes, passing through reward in the creation of a “Vin de Pays des
the nature reserve of Combe Lavaux (with its Coteaux de l'Auxois”, just itching to find its
extraordinary array of sub-Mediterranean and niche in the Burgundy wine industry.

Nuits-Saint-Georges
prealpine flora) and upland villages such as …

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 La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

YOUR ITINERARY FROM LEGEND TO UNIVERSAL MYTH cipal Museum, the

Dijon-Corgoloin (29 km) At Vosne-Romanée, 2 km to the south of excavations at the
Clos de Vougeot, we enter the holy of holies, Gallo-Roman site of Les
Via Chenôve (km 6), Marsannay (km 9), Fixin for it is in this little village that Burgundy’s Bolards and the Cassis-
(km 12), Gevrey-Chambertin (km 14),
Morey-Saint-Denis (km 17), Chambolle-
greatest red wines are to be found. sium (a museum area
Musigny (km 18), Vougeot (km 19), Vosne- There are seven grands crus which is devoted to the
Romanée (km 21), Nuits-Saint-Georges including the mythical Romanée blackcurrant and offers
(km 24) and Comblanchien (km 28).
Conti, the soul of discretion the opportunity to
Marking: the Grands Crus Wine Road (Route
with its 1.8 ha of vineyards visit the Védrenne
touristique des Grands Crus de Bourgogne) is indi- marked by a wayside cross liqueur factory. You
cated by panels with a brown background showing a and producing little more can also make a little
white bunch of grapes and indicating the itinerary to
follow. The Wine Road runs parallel to the RN74 than 5000 bottles a year detour via Chaux and
main road between Dijon and Beaune, and whene- with which the world will Villiers-la-Faye (15th
ver possible follows little country roads.
somehow have to make do! century castle), the first stage
Walking and cycling: you can travel by car but
also on foot or mountain bike thanks to the Grands And so we come to the of a fascinating route through the very
Crus Long-Distance Footpath (Grande randonnée® world-renowned little town of different atmosphere of the Hautes Côtes.
des Grands Crus) (21 km, 6 to 7 hours on foot, red Nuits-Saint-Georges, capital of the Back once more on the Wine Road, we go past
and yellow marking, for experienced hikers) which
Côte de Nuits. The wine of Nuits has travel- Comblanchien, where stone from the quarries is

© B.I.V.B. / D.R.
crosses the Côte de Nuits starting from Dijon (Parc
de la Combe Persil) and finishes at Pernand- led through history and journeyed in space. It was exported throughout the world (pedestal of the
Vergelesses (where you can continue as far as
Santenay along the GR® 7 long-distance footpath). prescribed as a remedy to Louis XIV, the Apollo 15 Statue of Liberty, Pyramid of the Louvre, etc.),
Château du Clos de Vougeot space mission named a crater on the moon after it on the way to Corgolin, the last stop on
(in honour of the heroes of Jules Verne’s Around the our journey through the Côte de Nuits. Here we
… Chamboeuf and Vergy where, instead of retracing century, but the number of its owners certainly Moon who opened a bottle of the nectar in their are transported back in time to the 18th century
your steps to Gevrey-Chambertin you can take has – about one hundred at the last count! At the spacecraft), and of course it is at the origin of the atmosphere of the Château de Cussigny (gas
another road and join up with the Grands Crus centre of this exceptional vineyard stands the internationally acclaimed Hospices de Nuits Wine lighting, dovecote and forest railway line) as a
Wine Road at Nuits-Saint-Georges. Château du Clos de Vougeot, built during the Auction. But this little town has more to offer than prelude to our exploration of the Côte de Beaune
The Wine Road heads south through a sea of Renaissance on the original 12th century wine its wine. Visitors will also be interested in the Muni- (see circuit details on pages 16 to 19). ■
vines, past a succession of low drystone walls and buildings. The château still possesses a wine store-
walled vineyards complete with elegant gateways, house containing four massive oak winepresses,
testifying to almost one thousand years of history. traditional kitchens and a vast cellar where the
At Morey-Saint-Denis, the venerable Clos de Tart chapters of the famous Confrérie des Chevaliers
can take pride in the fact that it has changed hands du Tastevin (Brotherhood of the Knights of the
only three times and has never been divided up Tastevin) are held. Not to be missed!
since it was first planted in 1142. This is in sharp On the other side of the main road, Gilly-les-
contrast with the world-renowned Clos de Vou- Cîteaux heralds the nearby presence of the abbey
geot which we come to a little further on, back on which was to play such an important part in the
the RN74. The property belonged to the monks history of wine in Burgundy and which thrives
of Cîteaux Abbey until the French Revolution. modestly to this day. It is only 10 km away and is
Its surface area has not changed since the 15th well worth a visit.

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 The grand crus wine road

ON THE WAY...
FACTS AND FIGURES Throughout the route Events: at the beginning of Couchey Events: in September,
September, Dijon is aroused by Chambertin Music Festival
The Côte de Nuits Wine Area The St-Vincent Tournante the International Folkloriades To see: viewpoint and viewpoint (concerts and wine).
(wine festival): on the last and Wine Festival (music and diagram above the village, at the
Surface area: about 3400 hectares spread over 16 communes, including 682 Saturday in January each year, to dance from all parts of the world); entrance to the plateau. Chambolle-Musigny
hectares for the Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits AOC zone which commemorate the feast of the
extends over a score or so of communes situated parallel to the Côte at an in early November, the Inter-
altitude of between 300 and 400 metres. patron saint of winegrowers, a national Gastronomic Fair has Events: in October, “Fête du To see: lime tree (16C) and
Côte de Nuits village organises a been a highlight of Dijon life for Vin Nouveau” (demonstration of château (18C).
festival which brings together almost 80 years. traditional wine pressing and
Production: 149,000 hectolitres, i.e. almost 20 million bottles per year, with
red wine accounting for over 85% of production. The great Côte de Nuits winegrowers and confraternities tasting of grape juice). To do: a short trip on board the
reds (Morey-Saint-Denis, Gevrey-Chambertin, Nuits-Saint-Georges, etc.) around time-honoured rituals Chenôve “Escargot de la Côte”, a little
are reputed for their ageing qualities, their structure and their powerful (procession with statues of the Fixin vineyard tourist train.
flavour which makes them a perfect companion for game or mature cheese. saint, mass, banquets and tasting To see: the old wine village
sessions). and the winepresses of the Dukes To see: Noisot Park and Vougeot
Terroir: stony soil consisting of fallen rocks from the mid-Jurassic period mixed of Burgundy (14C). Museum, dedicated to Napoleon;
with red earth torn from the plateaux. The peculiar aptitude for producing great village washhouse (1827); at To see: Château du Clos
red wines may be attributed to these geological features together with the cli- The Marathon des Grands
mate, the orientation of the wine slopes and the absence of rivers and streams. Events: on the third weekend the hamlet of Fixey, romantic little Vougeot, headquarters of
Crus de Bourgogne: this
in September, the Fête de la Pressée Romanesque church and the Confrérie des Chevaliers
popular race is run in late October.
celebrates the end of the grape communal lava-covered oven. du Tastevin.
Grape varieties: Pinot Noir for reds; Chardonnay for whites and Aligoté It starts in Old Dijon, follows the
for the Aligoté white wines. harvest in the gaily-decorated
Grands Crus Wine Road as far as
Nuits-Saint-Georges and then
old wine village. To do: share a tart baked in Nuits-Saint-Georges
Crus: 24 grands crus (supreme accolade awarded to certain climats) are pro- the communal oven of Fixey;
returns to the “Marathon Village”
duced in the Côte de Nuits, in other words all the red Burgundy grands crus at Marsannay-la-Côte.
Marsannay-la-Côte heated each year to celebrate the To see: church of St-Sympho-
with the exception of Corton (in the Côte de Beaune). The bottle label gives beginning of the grape harvest. rien; municipal museum (archae-
the name of the climat followed by the expression grand cru: Chambertin, To see: the Heritage Centre ology, painting); the Cassissium, a
Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, Chapelle-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin, Dijon
Mazoyères-Chambertin, Griotte-Chambertin, Latricières-Chambertin,
(Maison du Patrimoine) and its Gevrey-Chambertin museum area dedicated to the
Mazis-Chambertin, Ruchottes-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Denis, Clos de la exhibition on the everyday life blackcurrant; the Imaginarium,
Roche, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de Tart, Musigny, Bonnes Mares, Clos To see: the old town and its of winegrowers in 19th century To see: beautiful, sturdy château dedicated to sparkling wine.
Vougeot, Echézeaux, Grands Echezeaux, La Romanée, La Romanée-Conti, protected sector (over 50 man- Burgundy. (15C and 16C “fortified cellar”);
Romanée Saint-Vivant, Richebourg, La Tâche, La Grande Rue. sions, numerous churches); the strange pink colour of the To do: an excursion in the
Palace of the Dukes and States- To do: a walk through the church of St-Agnan (12C-13C); Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (château at
General of Burgundy, the Tower vineyards in the company of a the house of the Burgundian writer Concoeur-et-Corboin, church and
of Philippe-le-Bon (viewpoint); geologist who explains the Gaston Roupnel (1872-1946); museum at Reulle-Vergy, etc.).
the Fine-Arts Museum and the fascinating story of how a terroir townhouse of the wine merchant
tombs of the Dukes; the Well of is formed (details from the Tourist Claude Jobert (17C). Events: in March, “Vente des
Moses, masterpiece of Flemish Office). Vins des Hospices de Nuits” (wine
sculpture (14C-15C). To do: nature and vineyard auction); in June, the “Route du
Events: in March, the “Journées walk in the Combe Lavaux area Cassis” (rally in the Hautes-Côtes);
To do: visit the town at 6 kph Gourmandes” (tasting of wines (specially prepared along the in July, “Sons d'une Nuits d'Été”
on a Segway along itineraries and local produce); end of Septem- bottom of the coomb and (Nuits-Saint-Georges Music
specially devised by the Dijon ber, the “Rallye des Vendanges” signposted path following Festival); in October, “Fête du Vin
Tourist Office. (cycling trek in the Hautes-Côtes). the crest). Bourru” (wine festival).

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 La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

THE GRANDS CRUS WINE ROAD

Prestigious Côte de Beaune

From Ladoix-Serrigny to the vineyards of the Maranges, the road contin-
A
fter Corgoloin, the Grands Crus Wine
Road slides imperceptibly from the
ues along the foot of Côte de Beaune which prolongs the Côte de Nuits Côte de Nuits to the Côte de Beaune,
continuing along the RN 74 main road at the
by a further 20 km to the south. Here, in the land where Chardonnay rei- foot of a linear wine slope that remains
gns supreme, are to be found the greatest dry white wines in the world sublimely oblivious of administrative bound-
aries. It is a gentle transition on this modest
(Corton-Charlemagne, Montrachet, etc.). Once past Beaune, the wine fault scarp wreathed in vine leaves, “a sumptu-
ous slope cast haughtily and negligently by the
capital of Burgundy, the countryside becomes takes on a gentler look as we mountain towards the plain”, in the words of
approach Santenay and the Saône-et-Loire department. the Burgundian writer Gaston Roupnel.

SOURCE OF PLEASURES
On this stretch of the Grands Crus Wine Road,
the vineyards, which usually come to a halt
when they reach the main road, now spill over
to the other side. On the “mountain” side to intact a remarkable architectural heritage:
the west, we find the vineyards of Corton and remains of the ancient sanctuary of La Douix at
its grand crus; on the “plain” side to the east, the “château” (in actual fact a fortified house
we see the lesser-known vineyards of Ladoix- restored in the 19th century by the Mérode
Serrigny which nevertheless produce pleas- family), turrets of the fortified farmhouses
ant, fine, supple and aromatic red wines. (14th and 15th centuries), etc. Enjoy a leisurely
Taking its name from the Celtic word stroll through a wine village steeped in history.
douix, meaning “source”, Ladoix (attached Over the past ten years or so, Ladoix-Serrigny
to the village of Serrigny since 1988), has become known for its “Balade Gourmand”,
boasts a fountain from which pour forth a gastronomic walk which each summer
the waters of the Lauve, a little river which attracts numerous lovers of good food: not so
also supplies a washhouse and a 17th much a sporting event, more a pleasant walk
century mill, before joining the river punctuated with tempting halts at restaurants
Rhoin 8 kilometres downstream at of repute in the enchanting setting of such
Ruffey-lès-Beaune. This is one of the premier cru plots as La Micaude, La Corvée and
oldest villages of the Côte, preserving Le Clou d'Orge!

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 The Grands Crus Wine Road

Kennedy and Guy de Maupassant who referred

Pernand-Vergelesses Beaune
to it as the “king of bon viveurs” in one of his WELCOME TO THE “HAUTES-CÔTES”
most famous short stories, Bel Ami. Corton-
Charlemagne, the fruit of a walled vineyard Pending the creation of specific itineraries, you
ceded to the collegiate church of Saulieu by the can enjoy a host of possible routes linking the
emperor Charlemagne in 775 AD, is a quite Grands Crus Wine Road to the very different
exceptional grand cru white wine: at once but equally fascinating Hautes-Côtes: wilder
supple and sinewy, releasing aromas of cin- and more rustic, at times even harsh and
namon, exotic fruit and amber, and blessed with remote. Here, vineyards share the limelight with
a concentration and balance allowing it to farmland, deep coombs and wooded stretches
mature for at least 10 years. Legend has it that heavy with the scent of the juniper tree.
these south-facing parcels, originally consisting The expression “Hautes-Côtes” took the place
solely of the Pinot Noir grape variety, were of “Arrière-Côte” in 1927, the result of pressure
planted with Chardonnay so as to prevent the from local agricultural and wine associations
anxious to share in the renown of the Côte and
red wine from staining the white and hoary
its wines. The expression refers to the plateau
beard of Charlemagne, increasingly prone to
situated between the Côte and the Ouche Valley
trembling as he advanced in years!
at an average altitude of 300 to 400 metres. The
At the foot of this exceptional locality, Pernand-
plateau is usually reached via rocky and woody
Vergelesses is almost a picture postcard of a
coombs, dry valleys carved at right angles to the
Burgundian wine village, with its traditional
Côte and similar to the reculées or blind valleys
houses huddled around a church with of the Jura. A distinction is made between the
varnished-tile roof, its steep little streets and the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits in the north (the Vergy
surrounding vineyards. Above the village, we area, accessible from Gevrey-Chambertin,
THAT MAN CHARLEMAGNE! can explore the vineyards and woods of the Chambolle-Musigny, Nuits-Saint-Georges or
On the other side of the road, the famous Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, heading for Magny- Comblanchien) and the Hautes-Côtes de
“Montagne de Corton”, a gently rounded hill lès-Villers, reputed for the typicity of its Aligoté Beaune in the south (reached by Ladoix-
situated above Aloxe-Corton (to the east), for over a hundred years, or for Echevronne, Serrigny, Beaune, Pommard and Meursault).
Ladoix-Serrigny (to the north) and Pernand- better known for its red fruit (raspberries, As far as wine is concerned, the Hautes-Côtes
Vergelesses (to the west) attracts many an redcurrant and black currant), which are here have two regional AOC appellations –
admiring glance. The hill is topped by a wood transformed into creams, liqueurs and jams. red (Pinot Noir) and white (Chardonnay):
from which rises the white statue of Notre- Hautes-Côtes de Beaune (496 ha, 20,559 hl of
Dame de Bonne Espérance (Our Lady of Good BURGUNDY WINE CAPITAL red wine; 4689 hl of white wine)* and Hautes-
Hope). The hill is encircled by magnificent The Grands Crus Wine Road now eschews the Côtes de Nuits (682 ha, 22,957 hl of red wine;
terroirs producing some of the greatest wines of main road and reaches Beaune via small roads 5107 hl of white wine)*. The wines are for the
the Côte de Beaune: Corton and Corton-Charle- running past the vineyards. Our route takes us most part sturdy, firm and solid reds which need
magne, for the red and white crus respectively. through the vineyards of Savigny-les-Beaune. to mature to give of their best.
The former, originating from a stony parcel on The sight of a fighter plane protruding between *Areas in production in 2005; average annual yields
the sunniest part of the “mountain”, was the vines is not a figment of your (wine stimu- over 5 years (2001-2005). Source: BIVB.
the favourite wine of Voltaire, John Fitzgerald lated?) imagination, but a foretaste of the

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 La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

YOUR ITINERARY impressive collection of THE « CÔTE

Ladoix-Serrigny – Santenay vintage vehicles (motor- DES BLANCS »
(38 km by the main itinerary) cycles and racing cars South of Beaune,
as well as aircraft) on the Côte starts to
By way of Aloxe-Corton (km 3), Pernand- display at the castle. curve away, giving
Vergelesses (km 5), Savigny-lès-Beaune
(km 9), Beaune (km 15), Pommard (km Back in the village, way to a rounder,
19), Volnay (km 21), Monthélie (km 23), we are once more greener, more open
Meursault (km 25), Puligny-Montrachet in the heart of landscape. As we draw
(km 29), Chassagne-Montrachet (km 33).
At Monthélie, possible detour via Auxey- the Côte, as nearer to the Saône-et-
Duresses, La Rochepot, Saint-Aubin, then testified by Loire department, we leave
return to the main itinerary a little before Nolay Auxey-Duresses
the inscrip- behind us the austere world of
Chassagne-Montrachet.
tions etched Cîteaux and gradually enter the
on the pedi- less rigorous universe of Cluny.
ments of Once past the charming villages of
FACTS AND FIGURES certain houses, Pommard and Volnay, reputed for their
The Côte de Beaune wine area singing the praises great red wines, we penetrate the “Côte des Blancs”
of the local wines as which, while it does not correspond to an official
Surface area: about 6400 hectares, including being, for example, “nourish-ing, theological appellation, nevertheless perfectly describes the
496 hectares for the AOC “Bourgogne
Hautes-Côtes de Beaune”. and death-repellent”! geological reality of the terroirs of Meursault,
We now move to the other side of the A6 motor- Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet,
Production: 310,000 hectolitres, i.e. more way, which climbs up towards Paris via the Col all particularly well suited to the Chardonnay grape
than 40 million bottles per year (55%) (pass) de Bessey-en-Chaule, on our way to first by virtue of their marly, limestone and gravelly
in red wine.
Bouze-les-Beaune and then the Montagne de soils. At Monthélie, considered by some as the
Beaune. From here there is a marvellous view cradle of Burgundy wines at the time of the Celts,
Terroir: marly limestone and marl from Beaune
the middle and upper Jurassic period (general- over the carpet of vineyards stretching gently the Grands Crus Wine Road splits into two
ly “younger” than the soils of the Côte de down as far as the outskirts of Beaune, with the
Nuits).
ramparts encircling and protecting the town
beyond. It was within these walls that most of the
Grape varieties: Pinot Noir and (locally)
Gamay for the red wines, Chardonnay and great wine merchants settled in the 18h century,
Aligoté for the whites. helping to develop and consolidate the potential
of the Burgundy wine business. In addition to
Crus: apart from the Corton (red and white the cellars of the splendid wine houses (where
grand cru), the grands crus of the Côte de
Beaune are all whites: Corton-Charlemagne, millions of bottles are religiously stored) and of
Bâtard-Montrachet, Montrachet, Bienvenue- course the Hôtel-Dieu (one of the most visited
Bâtard-Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet,
Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet. The grands crus
monuments in the country), we discover a town
of the Montrachet bring together all the of great architectural and artistic interest. It is a
qualities of white burgundies: aromatic town famous for the good things in life but para-
complexity, strength, firmness and mellow-
ness combined with grace. doxically also a secret and mysterious place, full
of silent streets protected by high walls.

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 The Grands Crus Wine Road

branches, leaving you free to choose between the ON THE WAY...

High Road and the Low Road. The High Road Ladoix-Serrigny Beaune Saint-Romain
takes you to Saint-Aubin, at the frontier between
the Côte and Hautes-Côtes, via La Rochepot To see: the Gallo-Roman stele To see: the Hôtel-Dieu; Notre- To see: two cooperages,
on the farm of Neuvelle; the Dame collegiate church; the old including one founded in 1910.
whose famous château with its multi-coloured roof
chapel of Notre-Dame du town and its mansions; the cellars
has become a symbol for the whole of Burgundy. Chemin (11C, rebuilt in the of the great wine merchants; the La Rochepot
You can also make a detour by Saint-Romain, an 15C); the church (13C) and its traditional Fallot mustard factory.
authentic village perched atop a spectacular cliff. Eucharistic oculus (16C); the To see: the château, one of the glories
mill on the river Lauve (17C); To do: visiting the town in the of Burgundian architectural heritage.
The Low Road leads to Meursault, a charming “Visiotrain” (tourist train); learning
the washhouse at Le Buisson.
wine village which was the setting for the much- about wine at the Ecole des Vins de
loved film La Grande Vadrouille, and whose cellars Santenay Event: 1st Sunday in July: Bourgogne (weekend sessions, wine Meursault
contain a little matter of 800,000 bottles of wine! “Balade Gourmande” (Gastro- courses, lectures with tasting, etc.). To see: the town hall and its
nomic Jaunt) in the vineyards. polychrome roofs; the domain
Next come the villages of Puligny-Montrachet and nay, a few kilometres further on. This bustling little Events: June to September,
Chassagne-Montrachet which hold the distinction town possesses thermal waters and a casino as well as “Cours, Eau, Jardins” festival of the Château de Meursault
of possessing no fewer than five divine white grands vineyards. After visiting the local sights (the largest Pernand-Vergelesses (music, dance and poetry); in July, possessing one of the largest
International Festival of Baroque wine cellars in Burgundy.
crus, at once structured, harmonious and blessed plane tree in France, a château with its wine To see: the wine village, old
Opera; 3rd weekend in November, To do: a bird’s eye view of the
with a wholly remarkable finesse. Their number domain, an old restored windmill, the church of houses, church, fountain and
Hospices de Beaune Wine Auction. vineyards from the vantage point
includes the Montrachet, considered by Burgundy Narosse, etc.), you might feel like journeying to the washhouses, etc.
of a hot-air balloon with the
folk as the greatest white wine in the world. top of the Mont de Sène where you can enjoy To do: climb up to admire the Pommard “Ballons libres de Côte-d'Or”
Alexandre Dumas recommended that it should be sweeping views over the region in all directions. view from the oratory of Notre- association (Montgolfiades de
Dame de Bonne Espérance. To see: the “olfactory itinerary”
drunk “on bended knee and bare-headed”. A After that you can continue on your way to the of the Château de Meursault Meursault Festival in June).
unique, quasi-mystical experience – to be savoured distinctive Maranges area which serves as the junction and its domain (16C winepress,
Savigny-lès-Beaune Events: 3rd Monday in
in one of the numerous cellars along the way. The with the Côte Chalonnaise. But that is another story vaulted 18C cellars).
November, the “Paulée de
Grands Crus Wine Road comes to an end at Sante- – and another wine road (see pages 20 to 23). ■ To see: the château with Meursault” (banquet) and litera-
its wine property and the
Volnay ture prize (at the château); in
Motorcycle, Aviation and Racing To see: the chapel of Notre- July, “De Bach à Bacchus” festi-
Car Museum; the Romanesque Dame de Pitié (16C); the church val (concerts and wine tasting).
church (15C fresco); of St-Cyr (14C); the view from
To do: take part in a “goû- Notre-Dame-des-Vignes, 2,25 m Santenay
cast iron statue(19C).
taillon” (banquet) hosted by the To see: the Sorine windmill (Wind-
Confrérie de la Cousinerie de mill Festival in September); the
Bourgogne in the village wine
Monthelie
church of St-Jean-de-Narosse (15C)
cellar. To see: the church of St-Ger- on the Falaise des Trois-Croix (“Cliff
main (12C); the château (18C); of the Three Crosses”).
Events: 1st weekend in May, the old houses in the village.
“Welcome to Savigny” (operation To do: try your luck with the one-
“Open Cellars”); 3rd weekend Events: in May, the “Printemps de armed bandits at the casino; attend a
in October, the “Foulée des Monthélie” (spring festival); early July, chapter meeting of the Confrérie des
Vendanges” (foot race in the the Monthélie Festival (outdoor spec- Grumeurs (Brotherhood of Wine-
heart of the vineyards). tacles, cellars open, activities etc.). growers) at the Château du Hardi.

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 La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

THE GRANDS VINS WINE ROAD

Out and About in the Côte Chalonnaise

T
From Santenay to Saint-Gengoux-le-National, the Grands Vins Wine Road he vineyards of the Côte Chalonnaise
date back to the Roman conquest and
prolongs the Grands Crus Wine Road towards the south: a signposted itinerary developed in the Middle Ages largely
because the commercial centre of Chalon-sur-
of over one hundred kilometres linking some 40 communes through the Saône was situated on a navigable waterway.
vineyards of the Maranges, the Couchois and the Côte Chalonnaise. This varied Seemingly lost beyond repair as a result of the
phylloxera scourge in the 19th century, the
itinerary blends village and nature, vineyard and hedged farmland, Romanesque Côte made a belated recovery when “noble”
grape varieties were once more planted on the
churches and châteaux, and is yours to explore by car, on a boat along the Canal best slopes. Recognition came in 1990 in the
du Centre, or on your bike along the Voie Verte (no motorised traffic allowed). shape of the appellation d'origine contrôlée
(AOC) “Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise”. Today
this “new” wine area is going from
strength to strength.

ROAMING AT WILL
IN THECOUCHOIS AREA
Starting from Santenay, where we said
goodbye to the Grands Crus Wine Saint-Gengoux-le-National
Road (see pages 12 to 19), we get off
to a good start with a loop in the
Maranges area: charming and authentic this land where a pleasant surprise awaits you at
villages clinging to the sides of vine-clad every turning: Dezize-lès-Maranges on its hill,
hills, rustic winegrowers’ houses hidden Sampigny-lès-Maranges on the banks of the
behind old porches, a smiling country- Cozanne and Cheilly-lès-Maranges on the river
side dotted with coppices and little Dheune. These three villages, deep in the heart of
valleys, cliffs perfect for rock-climbing Burgundy, are responsible for seven Pinot Noir
and numerous viewpoints (Mont premiers crus (AOC Maranges). This is the most
de Rome, Mont de Sène), etc. The recent appellation of the Côte de Beaune which
quasi-monastic austerity of the Côte de comes to an end here, on the border of the Côte
Nuits is now but a distant memory in d’Or and Saône-et-Loire departments.

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 The Grands Vins wine road

There are magnificent views to be enjoyed as you this precious commodity was the economic Chagny, the first major stop on the Grands Vins ONE WINE AREA, FOUR GRAPE VARIETIES
drop down from Dezize- lès-Maranges towards backbone of the region. In the process Couches Wine Road, a few kilometres after the departure
Paris-l'Hôpital. At this point you can choose changed its name to Couches-les-Mines, before point at Santenay. Chagny is a port of call on the Four legendary grape varieties are to be
between continuing on the main itinerary to recently becoming Couches-les-Vignes, the Canal du Centre and the home of the great chef found in the Côte Chalonnaise:
Sampigny-lès-Maranges, alongside the Cozanne producer of robust, sturdy wines reflecting the Lameloise. It is also a pleasant holiday centre Pinot noir which, right from the origins of
river with its little waterfalls, or making a detour character of the locality under the regional Côtes noted for its many fine buildings. wine in Burgundy, has been instrumental in
through the Couchois area on the secondary du Couchois appellation. After Couches, we establishing the reputation of its great red
itinerary (20 km) before joining up with the cross the Canal du Centre at Saint-Léger-sur- THE OPULENT VINEYARDS wines. The vine produces purplish-black
main itinerary further south, between Aluze and Dheune where you can try your hand at inland OFRULLY AND MERCUREY bunches whose little berries contain an
Mercurey. This is an excellent opportunity to waterway navigation (little house barges for hire At this point you are free once again to leave the abundant, colourless and sugary juice. It goes
discover a little-known area, marked by history at the marina) and travel down the canal to main itinerary and set off on one of those into the composition of the Rully, Mercurey
(Château de Marguerite de Bourgogne at Chalon-sur-Saône. If you prefer, you can also delightful little byways for which the Côte and Givry appellations.
Couches, Château de Dracy) and by the cover this 35 km stretch on rollerblade or bicycle Chalonnaise is noted: a little country road lined Chardonnay is to white wine what Pinot is
industrial saga of nearby Le Creusot. For it was along the Voie Verte, a tarmac route reserved for with low drystone walls and punctuated with to red wine, and is the force behind the
here in the 19th century that the Schneider non-motorised traffic and running along the wayside crosses, communal ovens and beautifully great whites of Burgundy, particularly those
family found the iron ore they so desperately canal towpath between the two towns. In this preserved little churches and traditional houses. of the Côte Chalonnaise. It produces gold-
needed. From 1840 to 1950, the exploitation of case, we meet up with the main itinerary at A paradise for walkers! This little back road takes en clusters, as small as those of the Pinot
you to Bouzeron, famous for the quality of its Noir but more elongated and thicker, giving
Aligoté wines (as you enter the village, a sign a deliciously sugary white juice. Chardon-
proudly announces “A little village, a great nay grapes are found in the Rully, Mercurey,
wine”). Then you come to Chassey-le-Camp, Givry and Montagny appellations.
celebrated for its archaeological site (from Aligoté goes back a long way in Burgundy.
which the term chasséen, denoting a particular Its grapes are larger and more plentiful than
Neolithic civilisation, is derived). We come back those of the Chardonnay. They produce all the
to the “main road” at the hilltop village of Aluze, Burgundy Aligotés and, in the Côte Chalon-
where the houses seem to huddle for protection naise, the Bouzeron (the first communal
around the church, between Rully and Mercurey. appellation for this variety in Burgundy).
We now penetrate a more bourgeois part of the Gamay a fairly fertile young plant origina-
Côte Chalonnaise where wine is the source of ting from the village of the same name in
both its reputation and its wealth. Premiers crus the commune of Saint-Aubin in the Côte
follow in quick succession and a host of wine de Beaune. On the granite slopes of the
properties beckon you to their cool cellars or Mâconnais and the Beaujolais, the white
summon you to taste their wines in the sublime juice of the Gamay Noir produces fine,
setting of venerable mansions, some of which are pleasant red wines with a good bouquet,
veritable little châteaux! Any list of fine wines whereas it gives a more brutish wine on the
must include the name of Rully, a large village clay-limestone soil of the Côte-d’Or. In the
which is equally at home in producing red, white Côte Chalonnaise it is sometimes used in
and Crémant wines. Rully boasts one of the best the making of Crémant de Bourgogne.
Mercurey preserved châteaux in the Côte Chalonnaise, the

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 La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

property of Montessus family for the last four

YOUR ITINERARY
FACTS AND FIGURES centuries and a match for the sumptuous 19th Santenay - St-Gengoux-le-National (75 km)
The Maranges, Couchois and Côte century mansions gracing the village. The affluent
Chalonnaise wine areas. little town of Mercurey is also renowned for its red Principal itinerary via Cheilly-lès-Maranges,
wines, some of which bear comparison with Sampigny-lès-Maranges, Dezize-lès-Maranges,
Chagny, Rully, Aluze, Mercurey, Mellecey, Givry,
The “Maranges” communal appellation occu- the grands crus of the Côte de Beaune. The long- Moroges, Saint-Désert, Buxy, Montagny-lès-Buxy,
pies the southernmost tip of the Côte de Chenôves, Saint-Boil.
Beaune, of which it forms part, covering the standing wealth of the wine bourgeoisie is reflec-
villages of Dezize, Sampigny and Cheilly-les- ted in the succession of winegrowers’ houses and Variants
Maranges. It produces red wines for ageing attractive residences lining the principal street.
with aromas of red fruit and hints of flowers. Côtes du Couchois: about 24 km between
Paris-l'Hôpital and Charrecey.
The Couchois wine area has more in common A TASTE OF THE SOUTH Bouzeron: about 10 km between Chagny and Aluze.
with the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, producing Between Mercurey and Givry, we once more Vallée des Vaux: about 12 km between
robust and coloured wines under the regional Mercurey and Jambles.
turn our back on the main itinerary and set
“Bourgogne Côtes du Couchois” appellation.
off in search of one of the gems of the Côte
The Côte Chalonnaise wine area is the
Chalonnaise, the lush, green Vallée des Vaux
natural prolongation of the Côte de Beaune, which follows the course of the river Orbise. fortified Neo-gothic church at Saint-Désert, the
with identical geological features and grape The valley is watched over by the Château de Romanesque church covered with lava at Rosey,
varieties. Such is the reputation of its wines
nowadays that many consider them to repre- Germolles (12C-14C), the only one of the for- etc. In short, even the smallest village has
sent the best value for money in Burgundy. tresses of the Dukes of Burgundy still standing something of interest to offer. Make sure you
- Surface area: about 4800 hectares of vines,
covering a strip 25 km long and 7 km wide. today. One cannot fail to be overwhelmed by the find time to visit Buxy and its beautifully
- Terroir: clay-limestone soil dating from simple beauty of the wine slopes, the authentic restored town centre. The church, with a
the Jurassic period (clay favourable for charm of the villages and the harmony of land- medieval tower linked to the clock-tower by
Chardonnay); vineyard altitude varying
from 250 to 370 metres. scapes combining vine and pasture, orchard and a footbridge is particularly worthy of your
- Grape varieties: reds - Pinot Noir and untrammelled undergrowth. Givry leaves a more attention. A little further on, Montagny awaits
Gamay (around Buxy and in the Couchois);
whites - Chardonnay and Aligoté (especially imposing impression with its fortified buildings, you, its little streets laid with paving stones.
at Bouzeron). its handsome circular market hall, its clock tower
- Production: 237,000 hectolitres, i.e. spanning the street and its monumental church
over 30 million bottles per year, spread
roughly equally between red wines (55%) built to an astonishing circular plan and crowned
and whites including Crémant. by an imposing dome. This captivating town is
- Wines: 5 communal appellations (Bouzeron,
Mercurey, Rully, Givry and Montagny) of also the point of departure for the Voie Verte
which 2 are for white wine only (Bouzeron running from Cluny to Charnay-les-Mâcon, 65
and Montagny), the rest being regional appel-
lations (the “Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise”
kilometres to the south, following the track of a
appellation has existed since 1990). The most disused railway line. Running parallel to the Voie
characteristic reds (Mercurey, Givry) are Verte (no motorised vehicles allowed!), the
well-structured and fruity wines for ageing
(reaching full maturity after 5 to 8 years) with Grands Vins Wine Road continues on its
aromas of morello cherry and blackcurrant. way towards the south, sometimes below and
The best white vintages (Montagny, Rully) are
delicate, quality wines of a beautiful gold sometimes atop the vineyards. At Jambles, it
colour with green tints. passes close to Mont Avril (421 m) and yet
more villages: the medieval castle at Moroges, the

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 The Grands Vins wine road

ON THE WAY...
Throughout the itinerary square and the market of the Germolles at Mellecey (14C).
Cathedral of Saint-Vincent; the To do: hiking on the Mont
La Chasse aux trésors
Niepce Museum (dedicated to Avril nature trail (departure
(treasure hunt): in April, the
the inventor of photography). from Cercot near Jambles);
Grands Vins Wine Road organises
a weekend rally for motorists and Event : early July, “Chalon dans cycling or roller-skating
cyclists: a fun way to discover the la Rue” (street festival). along the Voie Verte as
vineyards and meet the winegrow- far as Mâcon.
Chagny
ers through a series of riddles. Events: early July, “Les
To see: the old hospital Musicaves” (music and wine);
In the Maranges pharmacy.
early April, wine market under
To see: views in all directions To do: a houseboat outing on the circular market hall.
the Canal du Centre.
from the top of the Mont de
Buxy
Rome (545 m); the old wine- Rully
growers’ houses in the villages To see: the church (12C); the
To see: the medieval fortress Wine Museum; the medieval
of Sampigny-lès-Maranges and
Couches
of the Château de Rully and houses (staircase turrets).
Dezize-lès-Maranges.
its wine estate.
To do: rock-climbing on the To do: sampling vintage
Climb to the top of the village for a magnificent vast promenade lined with plane trees and enti- Event: in April, “Rully Millé-
cliffs of the Mont de Rome. wines in the converted cellar of
view of 300 hectares of vineyards producing its cing terraces. Here, the air is softer and balmier, sime” (wine tasting in the cellar the Tour Rouge, a remnant of
famous white wine. Saint-Gengoux-le-National is the walls more colourful, the tiles on the roofs Event: early April, “Du côté des of Rully Producers’ Union). the village’s old castle.
the end of the line as far as this infinitely captiva- rounder. In short, the vineyards have an unmistak- Maranges” (wine cellars open to
ting Grands Vins Wine Road is concerned. It is a able southern look about them. Indeed, if we the public and various activities). Mercurey Events: early July, “Les Music-
quiet and flourishing shopping town, with the continue towards the south we will very soon To see: the little village of arires” (street spectacles under the
medieval district backing on to Mont Goubot, its come to the Mâconnais (see pages 24 to 27). ■ In the Couchois Touches, its beautiful winegrowers’ aegis of the Montagny appellation).
To see: the Château de houses and Romanesque church.
Marguerite de Bourgogne at
Saint-Gengoux-le-National
To do: attend a chapter of the
Couches; the little wine museum To see: the old houses (Maison
“Confrérie Saint-Vincent et des
on the property of La Tour Bajole du Prieuré, Maison des
Disciples de la Chanteflûte” at the
at Saint-Maurice-les-Couches. Concurés, Maison du Bailli,
Château de Garnerot.
Events: early August, etc.); the church built by the
“La Ronde du Couchois” (wine Givry monks of Cluny.
cellars open to the public); early To see: the Town Hall, built in To do: an excursion to Culles-
July, jazz festival at Couches. the old clock tower; the market les-Roches (6 km to the north),
hall (19C); the church built to a pretty, typically Burgundian
Chalon-sur-Saône circular plan, masterpiece of late little village, situated at the foot
To see: the Old Town, the 18C architecture; the Château de of a cliff.

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 La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

THE MÂCONNAIS-BEAUJOLAIS WINE ROAD

The Call of the South

The Mâconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road prolongs the Grands Vins Wine Road
towards the south and constitutes the last stage of our long, uninterrupted
journey through the vineyards which started back in Dijon. The main itinerary

S
tarting at Saint-Gengoux-le-National,
leads more or less directly through the vineyards of the Mâconnais to
we leave the vineyards for a while and
Romanèche-Thorins in the Saône-et-Loire department, but there are eight take the pretty little D67 minor road
which carries us from the Côte Chalonnaise
circuits in all taking you into the depths of the most southerly of the Burgundy to the Mâconnais via Chapaize at the
nor thern limit of the Cluny area. The
wine areas. Suivez la grappe - just follow the sign of the grape bunch!
remarkable village church, built around the
year 1000, reminds us of the important role
played by religion in the vicinity. Indeed
Cluny, the old “Light of Christianity”, is no
more than 20 km to the south-east; the
ecumenical community of Taizé, where the
late lamented Brother Roger officiated,
is even nearer; Tournus and the abbey-
church of Saint-Philiber t (similar in
architecture to the church of Chapaize) a
mere 15 km to the east as the crow flies.
These and other sites are well worth a
detour for all those interested in history,
particularly religious history.
Indicated by the “Suivez la grappe” panels
showing a smiling young girl wreathed in
golden clusters of grapes, one of the 8
circuits of the Mâconnais-Beaujolais Wine
Road (Circuit 4, 90 km) takes you into the
heart of the Cluny area which has succeeded
in preser ving its architectural heritage
although it has lost most of its vineyards.
Cluny

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 The Mâconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road

BETWEEN CLUNY AND TOURNUS of the hills. A few kilometres further on,
Chanes
MAKING SENSE OF THE Continuing along the main itinerary, we Bissy-la-Mâconnaise confirms what we had
DIFFERENT APPELLATIONS quickly make our way to Brancion. This already half suspected: we have left Tournus
gateway to the Mâconnais wine area is situated and the world of the Burgundian dukes behind
It’s not always easy to find one’s way about the informa- at an altitude of 400 m on a rocky spur com- us, and have entered the very different world
tion contained on the labels of wine bottles. But in manding the passage between the Saône valley of the Mâconnais.
actual fact Burgundy wines are classified according to to the east and the Grosne valley in the west. From now on, the local patois has more
very precise rules which are quite simple once you get Echoes of this strategic position live on today in common with the dialects of the south
the hang of them. There are four appellation levels: in the shape of a medieval village grouped (Languedoc, the language of Oc), the flat-tiled
- The regional appellation concerns wines produced around the remains of the old feudal castle in roofs give way to the flatter tiles and less
in three departments (Yonne, Côte d'Or and Saône et an exceptional setting. The view over the entire steeply inclined roofs of the south, the fronts
Loire). It may be followed by the name of the grape region from the top of the keep gives a of houses are now graced with a gallery
variety (for example, Bourgogne Aligoté) or a produc- very clear picture of the transition from the reached from an outside staircase under which
tion area (for example, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise). winegrowing Mâconnais in the south, with its lies the entrance to a vaulted cellar, and so on.
There are 23 regional appellations in Burgundy (53%
of production).
- The communal appellation refers to the wines As elsewhere, it was expanded and developed by
produced on the territory of a wine commune (village) monks, this time Cluniacs and not Cistercians.
from which it takes its name (for example, Saint-Véran With the exception of the area around Lugny and
or Beaune). There are 44 communal appellations in the southern part of the winegrowing sector, the
Burgundy (35% of production). Mâconnais was planted almost exclusively in
- The “premier cru” designation is an additional Gamay until the 18th century. But as from 1810,
criterion of quality concerning the communal the Chardonnay grape variety, taking its name
appellations produced on a particular climat, that is to from a local village 6 km south-east of Martailly-
say a precisely delimited parcel whose name may appear lès-Brancion, started to gain the ascendancy and
on the label (for example, Beaune Premier Cru Les today accounts for 85% of plantations.
Grèves). There are 622 climats classified as premiers Apart from the predominance of white wines,
crus (10% of production). the Mâconnais is notable for its long tradition of
Blanot
- Lastly, the “grand cru” appellation is the supreme cooperative cellars, thirteen of which are still
accolade for wines produced on the best climats (for active today. These are mostly in the northern
example, Montrachet, Corton, Chablis Grand Cru Les vine-clad slopes and often bare hilltops (the In short, there is a definite air of the south, as part, in places like Lugny (3 km from Bissy-la-
Clos). There are 32 grands crus in the Côte-d'Or and 1 upland cras conducive to sheep farming), and seen also in landscapes characterised Mâconnaise, on Circuit 2) which has the largest
in Chablis (on 7 different climats) representing less the greener more densely wooded relief of the by mixed farming (winegrowing but also crop cooperative in the area. As is usually the case, its
than 2% of wine production in Burgundy. In 2005 pastoral Cluny countryside to the west. and livestock farming). members’ products (white, red and rosé wines,
total production came to 176 million bottles, spread Once we get past Martailly-lès-Brancion, the Crémant de Bourgogne) are available for sale
over 101 appellations d’origine contrôlées (AOC) itinerary once again becomes more direct, CHARDONNAY COUNTRY in a specially prepared tasting cellar. The wine
and together representing the scope and richness of the following little country roads south alongside Like most of its counterparts in other parts of Bur- storehouse can be visited, and once a year a
Burgundian wine area. the Monts du Mâconnais, parallel to the Saône gundy, the Mâconnais winegrowing area dates special “open day” is organised. In short, a visit
and the A6 motorway on the other side back to the Roman era (the 3rd century AD). to a cooperative is an excellent way to get to

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 La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

YOUR ITINERARY know the aptly named La Roche- FACTS AND FIGURES
From Saint-Gengoux-le-National to t h e Vineuse, we are ready to follow The Mâconnais Wine Area
Romanèche-Thorins (about 70 km) various in the footsteps of the poet
appella- Alphonse de Lamartine Surface area: 6200 hectares (the largest wine area in
In addition to the signposting common to all the Burgundy), over a stretch 35 km long (from Sennecey-le-
tions and (Circuit 5, 50 km): a lite- Grand in the north to Saint-Vérand in the south) and 10
Burgundy Wine Roads (panel showing a white bunch
of grapes on a brown background), the Mâconnais- find out rary and nostalgic pilgrim- km wide (between the Grosne valley in the west and the
Beaujolais Wine Road is marked by a thousand “Suivez more about age from the family house Saône valley in the east).
la grappe” (Follow the Bunch of Grapes) signs depicting
a young girl with a bunch of grapes on her head. the world of of Milly to the châteaux he
Terroir: clay-limestone of the Jurassic period. Limestone
winegrowing in frequented (Pierreclos, Saint- or calcic soils for the Chardonnay; siliceous, clayey or
PRINCIPAL ITINERARY the Mâconnais. Point, Prissé-Montceau, and so sandy soils, often mixed with gravel (sandstone pebbles)
Leaving to our on), not forgetting the villages for the Gamay.
Via Chapaize, Brancion, Bissy-la-Mâconnaise,
Saint-Gengoux-de-Scissé, Azé, Igé, Verzé, La Roche- east the villages inhabited by his friends (Berzé-la-
Grape varieties: Chardonnay for white wines (85% of
Vineuse, Bussières, Pierreclos, Serrières, Chasselas, of Viré and Ville, Tramayes, etc.). Mâcon with plantations), Gamay Noir (white juice) for red Mâcon
Saint-Vérand, Saint-Amour-Bellevue, La Chapelle- Clessé, produ- its Lamartine Museum, its old wines; Pinot Noir locally.
de-Guinchay.
cers of a white district and its shops is no more
SECONDARY CIRCUITS wine of repute than 10 kilometres away. Production: 411,000 hectolitres, i.e. almost 55 million
bottles per year, including 85% in white wine and 20% in
(the Viré- communal appellations (Saint-Véran, Pouilly-Fuissé,
In addition to the main itinerary, there is a choice of Clessé” commu- GREAT WHITE WINES… Pouilly-Loché, Pouilly-Vinzelles, Viré-Clessé).
8 tourist, cultural and gastronomic circuits with a
nal appellation AND A WINDMILL!
total of 64 stopovers:
was obtained in Bussières marks the entrance to the Wines: dry white wines characterised by floral and fruity
- Circuit n° 1: 42 km between Tournus and Brancion. aromas with typically Chardonnay traces of almond and
1997, the hun- southern part of the wine area, home to hazelnut. The character of the Mâcon rouge depends on the
(10 stages)
dredth and last the finest vintages of the Mâconnais. locality. If it comes from clay-limestone soil, it will be fresh and
- Circuit n° 2: 60 km between Bissy-la-Mâconnaise but one AOC Prosperity came early to this area light and should be drunk young. On the granite or siliceous
and Fleurville on the banks if the Saône. (9 stages) soil in the southern part of the Mâconnais it becomes fleshy
for Burgundy wines which is almost entirely devoted to and full-bodied, and should be left to mature for a while in
- Circuit n° 3: 40 km between Verzé and Mâcon. at the time of writing), winegrowing and where private cellars order to bring out its aromas of spices and cooked fruits.
(9 stages) the Mâconnais-
- Circuit n° 4: 90 km between Chapaize and Cluny. Beaujolais Wine
(9 stages) Road continues
- Circuit n° 5: 50 km between La Roche-Vineuse and on its leisurely
Saint-Point in the footsteps of Lamartine. (11 stages) s o u t h w a rd
journey, buil-
- Circuit n° 6: 40 km between Chânes and Mâcon.
(9 stages) ding up an
impressive
- Circuit n° 7: 25 km between Vinzelles, Vergisson
and Solutré-Pouilly. (3 stages) collection of place
names ending with the
- Circuit n° 8: 45 km between Romanèche-Thorins
and Crèches-sur-Saône. (5 stages)
letter “é”: Saint-Gengoux-de-
Scissé, Azé, Igé, Verzé, etc., not to mention cellars,
estates, Romanesque churches, traditional houses
and viewpoints at every turning. Once we get to

26 www.bourgogne-tourisme.com
 The Mâconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road

ON THE WAY...
letter “d” at the end, though no-one quite knows
why), another white wine reputed for its finesse Chapaize Greuze Museum (archaeology, fine Milly-Lamartine
arts); the Perrin de Puycousin
and elegance, signals the end of the Mâconnais To see: the Romanesque church To see: Lamartine’s house
Burgundian Museum (folklore).
wine area. Beyond this point, the Wine road (11C) and its 35 m high tower; the (18C); in the vicinity, the
continues along the little strip of the Saône-et- workshops of the village craftsmen To do: a river cruise on Château de Saint-Point, modi-
Loire that juts into the Rhône department. The (gilded wood, baked clay, jewels). the Saône. fied by the poet, and the
vineyards are still all around us but they are now Château de Prissé-Monceau, his
Cormatin Bissy-la-Mâconnaise
part of the Beaujolais. Although the wines of “winegrower’s residence”.
Beaujolais have been officially classified since To see: the château (17C) To do: climb to the top of Mont
1930 as part of the Burgundy wine area, they in known as the “Mâconnais Saint-Romain (579 m) via the Col Solutré-Pouilly
Roche de Solutré
fact fall into a very different category, and are de la Pistole, view over the Cluny
Chambord” (drama festival in To see: the Departmental
predominate over cooperatives. In this land of the considered as “foreign”. Nevertheless the summer); the bicycle museum. area and the Mâconnais.
Museum of Prehistory, the
“Pouillys” (Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché, Pouilly- vintages of this Burgundian peninsula – Chénas, To do: a cycling or rollerblade Azé Atrium of Pouilly-Fuissé.
Vinzelles), those beguiling ambassadors for Juliénas, Saint-Amour, Moulin-à-Vent, etc. excursion on the Voie Verte. To see: the caves (prehistoric To do: climb to the top of the
Mâconnais white wine, the gently sloping hills, – coexist peacefully with their northern neighbours.
remains, underground river); rock of Solutré (493 m) or
bathed in vines, lap against the craggy rocks of After La Chapelle-de-Guinchay, the Mâconnais- Brancion its twin sister, the rock of
archaeological museum (objects
Vergisson and Solutré. The latter, described by the Beaujolais Wine Road comes to an end under the To see: the medieval site (feudal from Prehistory and the Middle Vergisson (485 m), for a view
writer R. Gouze as a “sphinx with its claws planted haughty shadow of the windmill (moulin à vent) castle, Romanesque church, Renais- Ages discovered in the region). over the vineyards and well
in the vines”, is well worth a visit, not only for its which looks down on the vineyards producing sance houses, market hall and 15C beyond in both cases.
natural beauty and the superb view from the sum- the grand cru wine to which it has bequeathed inn) and the view over the Grosne Berzé-le-Châtel
mit (493 metres) but also for its prehistoric his- its name. You will be tempted to linger awhile valley; in the vicinity: the distinctive Mâcon
To see: the medieval site (ram-
tory, described in detail in the museum built in at Romanèche-Thorins, the last stage of our villages of Uchizy and Ozenay parts, castle, fortified chapel, ter- To see: the Old Town and the
the bowels of the rock. journey, with its zoo, an amusement park and (stone-roofed château and church). raced gardens, etc.). St-Laurent bridge (11C);
The village of Saint-Vérand, which has given its a large tourist centre dedicated to Beaujolais
the marina; the Lamartine and
name to Saint-Véran (the appellation has shed the wines and traditions. ■ Cluny Bussières Ursuline museums (archaeology,
To see: remains of the abbey and To do: the Lamartine trail, ethnology, fine arts); the
the Museum of Art and Archaeo- between Bussières and Milly. Hôtel-Dieu and its hospital
logy; the numerous Romanesque pharmacy; the Maison des Vins
Event: end of January, the
churches; the National Stud. (wine centre).
“Saint-Vincent Tournante du
Event: in August, the “Grandes Triangle d'or” (wine festival
Heures de Cluny” (chamber
Romanèche-Thorins
alternating between Bussières,
music festival). Pierreclos and Serrières). To see: Touroparc zoo (120 ani-
mal species) and amusement park;
Tournus Pierreclos the “Hameau du Vin”, tourist site
To see: the Old Town and the To see: the castle (12C and of the wine merchant Georges
abbey church of St-Philibert (11C 15C) dominating the Grosne Duboeuf, devoted to Beaujolais
and 12C); the Hôtel-Dieu and the valley, and its wine estate. winegrowing and traditions.

www.bourgogne-tourisme.com 27
 La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

THE YONNE WINE ROAD

Five Wine Areas at the Gates of Paris

In the Yonne department, the vineyards have grown up alongside the
rivers: the Joigny and Auxerre regions ( Jovinien and Auxerrois) in the
Yonne valley, the Chablis area (Chablisien) in the Serein valley, the
Tonnerre area (Tonnerrois) in the Armançon valley and the Vézelay area
(Vézelien) in the Cure valley. Over and above the world renowned
Chablis wines, the vineyards of the Yonne as a whole are now undergoing
a revival and are well worth discovering in all their diversity.

B
efore the advent of the phylloxera scourge half-timbered houses lining the narrow cobblestone recent years thanks to the efforts of a handful of
in the late 19th century, the Yonne was streets of this Town of Artistic and Historical young winegrowers who have replanted some "good"
the largest winegrowing region in France Interest. A few enthusiastic winegrowers have varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gris and Cendré)
with 40,000 hectares of vineyards. Despite the managed to preserve intact the typicity of their to produce regional "bourgogne" appellations.
ravages caused by this disease, the vineyards, with wine heritage. Here, the relatively rare Pinot Gris
Chablis leading the way, were to rise phoenix-like grape variety enjoys a special micro-climate and soil THE AUXERRE WINE AREA: THE ETERNAL LAND OF WINE
from their ashes and set off in quest of the coveted conditions (flint clay on a chalky subsoil) which Continuing on its way south, the RN6 comes to
AOC appellation. Today, you can explore in the have given rise to the production of a grey wine Auxerre. Many a traveller has been enchanted by
five time-honoured and famous winegrowing unique in Burgundy. At the western end of the the sight of this old city reflected in the waters of
areas of the Yonne department in depth thanks to slope, look out for the Belvedere in the middle of the river Yonne and by the historical legacy of the
five different circuits. the vines with its sweeping views over the town and town’s architecture, running the gamut from the
the river Yonne. Carolingian era to the Renaissance. In former
THE JOIGNY WINE AREA: AT THE GATES OF PARIS To the south of Joigny, in bucolic country dotted times, wine was the town’s main source of wealth
Coming from the north, the old RN6 main road with windmills, vines nurtured on the same kind of and was exported by water throughout northern
runs through Sens and then the charming little soil can be found in the Tholon valley. The local France. Nowadays, the Clos de la Chaînette (4.5
town of Joigny, dominated by wine and the vines vineyards go back a long way, as testified by ha) is the sole survivor of the great Auxerre wines
trade down the years. The vineyard of the Côte the 13th century felling wine press preserved at whose reputation once outstripped all the other
Saint-Jacques, overlooking the medieval town, Champvallon. Almost out on its feet in the 1980s, vintages of Burgundy. Strictly speaking, the Auxerre
Vézelay
has been remarkably restored, as have the old this wine area has recovered a certain vitality in wine area begins ten kilometres to the south of the

28 www.bourgogne-tourisme.com
 The Yonne Wine Road

CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE
Along with Rully in the Saône-et-Loire department
and the Châtillonnais in the north of the Côte-d’Or
department, the Auxerrois is a bastion of sparkling
wines. The AOC "Crémant de Bourgogne" was
launched in 1975 at the instigation of the SICA du
Vignoble Auxerrois (agricultural cooperative company).
This wine (white or rosé) is elaborated according
to the so-called “traditional” method which is exactly
the same as that used in the making of champagne:
the basic wines are produced in the same way as any
still wine and then a sugar and yeast-based liqueur is Auxerre
added for a second fermentation in the bottle known
as prise de mousse. The AOC, which covers the entire
and its cellars, reputed for their Crémant de
zone of the "Bourgogne" appellation, carries certain
Bourgogne (see box), and then continue on our
obligations and restrictions. For example, the grapes
way to Chitry and Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, two very
must be harvested manually and transported in
pretty villages of the Côtes-d’Auxerre.
pierced crates. Different white and red grape varieties
may be used in elaborating these dry or semi-dry
CHABLIS: GOLDEN GATEWAY OF BURGUNDY
wines which are appreciated for their richness in the
We pass smoothly from the valley of the Yonne to
mouth, finesse and persistent bubbles.
the romantic Serein valley, home of the famous
In the Yonne department, the immense cellars
Chablis dry white wine - distinguished, lively,
of Bailly contain at any one time between four
fruity, often copied but never equalled. With its
and five million bottles. Another “temple”
characteristic mineral taste and gold-green colour,
of Crémant de Bourgogne is to be found at the Pontigny
Chablis accounts for two-thirds of all wine
Imaginarium at Nuits-Saint-Georges – an invitation
production in the Yonne department. From the
to take a sensory journey into the world of bubbly.
vantage point of Préhy, the eye takes in virtually the
whole of the Chablis vineyards, enabling us to
town in pleasant, harmonious countryside visualise the hierarchy of the various appellations:
punctuated with beautiful churches and cherry Petit Chablis (on the plateaux), Chablis (northern
trees which have partly superseded the vines. The and eastern slopes), Chablis Premier Cru
road first runs through Escolives-Sainte-Camille (both banks of the Serein) and Chablis Grand Cru
(an archaeological site where a Gallo-Roman fresco (right bank of the Serein), all with the same
was discovered testifying to the presence Chardonnay grape variety.
of vineyards as early as the 2nd century), Jussy, Breaking our journey at Chablis, we explore the
Coulange-la-Vineuse, etc., before crossing the treasures of this little town (old district, collegiate
Yonne at Cravant on its way to Irancy via the Côte church of Saint-Martin, wine cellars, etc.), and find
de Palotte. From Vincelottes, we move on to Bailly time to sample the locality’s other claim to fame, Jussy
Irancy

www.bourgogne-tourisme.com 29
 La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

YOUR ITINERARY the delicious

One route, five circuits andouillette
sausage, before
Situated just 90 minutes from Paris, the Yonne Wine making our way up to the
Road is divided into five circuits covering all the Aire des Clos, at the top of the
winegrowing areas of the department. An open invi-
tation to discover, as the fancy takes you, picturesque Grand Cru vineyards: Vaudésir, Valmur,
villages, tourist and cultural attractions, tempting Blanchot, Grenouilles, les Clos, les Preuses
inns and restaurants and to set off in search of wine- and Bougros, seven gems clinging to the
growers who will be only too happy to share their
love of wine with you. There are 120 cellars open to steep and stony slopes of the right bank
visitors, including 44 signatories of the “From
Vineyards to Cellars” hospitality charter.
THE TONNERRE WINE AREA:
1- The Joigny wine area (Vignoble du Jovinien) LAND OF STONE AND WATER
30 km loop starting from Joigny, via Paroy, Tholon,
Senan, Volgré and Chamvres.
Even more so than its neighbours, the
Tonnerrois has come back from the brink.
2- The Tonnerre wine area (Vignoble du In the 19th century the winegrowing area
Tonnerrois) Two loops starting from Tonnerre: covered over 5000 hectares and the wines
- south bank of the Armançon (about 30 km) were acclaimed by the high and mighty, from
via Junay, Vézinnes, Roffey, Bernouil, Vézannes
and Serrigny. Henri IV to Alexandre Dumas who rated the
- north bank of the Armançon (about 10 km) via Olivottes de Dannemoine among the great
Epineuil, Molosmes and Vaulichières.
French red wines. But by the 1960s the records
showed only two winegrowers in activity. The
3- The Chablis wine area (Vignoble du
Chablisien) Two loops starting from Chablis: Tonnerrois vineyards were given up for dead and
- south of Chablis (about 20 km ) via Préhy for the most part replaced by cereal farming. And
and Courgis
- on either side of the Serein river (about 70 km): yet, following the example set by the pretty hillside
south bank - Milly, Beine, Villy, Lignorelles, village of Epineul with its representative, very fruity
Pontigny, then on the north bank - Ligny-le-
Châtel, Maligny, Fontenays-près-Chablis, Fyé,
and light red wines, the wine business started to
Fleys, Viviers, Béru, Poilly-sur-Serein, and then recover in the 1970s. Since 1989, vines have been
back to the south bank - Chemilly-sur-Serein,
Chichée and back to Chablis.

4- The Auxerre wine area (Vignoble de

l’Auxerrois) 80 km loop starting from Auxerre via
Vaux, Escolives-Sainte-Camille, Coulanges-la-
Vineuse, Vincelles, Champs-sur-Yonne, Bailly,
Vincelottes, Cravant, Irancy, Chitry, Saint-Bris-le-
Vineux, Quenne and Nangis.

5- Vézelay wine area (Vignoble du Vézelien)

20 km loop starting from Vézelay via Saint-Père,
Tharoiseau, Précy-le-Moult, Pierre-Perthuis
and Asquins.
Tonnerre

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 The Yonne Wine Road

ON THE WAY...
replanted over the Tonnerre vineyards as well as the FACTS AND FIGURES
communes of Molosme, Junay and Dannemoine, The Yonne Wine Region Joigny area Chablis area presenting the history of the
Thibault family, a long line of
the appellation “Bourgogne Tonnerre” blanc winegrowers still active today
Surface area: over 6000 hectares of vineyards (4600
To see at Champvallon: To see: the churches of Ligny-
being on the point of becoming the 101st an exceedingly rare 13th century le-Châtel (half Romanesque, (wine and vine articles, 18C
ha for the Chablisien, 1400 ha for the Auxerrois,
Burgundy AOC wine. 140 ha for the Tonnerrois, 93 ha for the Vézelien, felling wine press, perhaps the half Renaissance) and Poilly- “flat” wine press).
Taking the wine road from the historical town 26 ha for the Jovinien), i.e. less than 1% of the only one still in operation (festi- sur-Serein (15C); Courgis, the
of Tonnerre with its mysterious Fosse Dione department’s productive agricultural area. val in October depending on the pretty village where the novelist To see at Coulanges-la-
(a circular basin filled with blue-green water from date of the wine harvest). Restif de la Bretonne lived; Vineuse: wine museum
Production: more than 340,000 hectolitres of wine Béru, with its château (18C) containing an 18C felling wine
an underground river), we can see how much the per year, all wine areas taken together (253,700 hl for To see in Joigny: Town of and viewpoint affording press and municipal collections.
vineyards have once more become a feature of this the Chablisien, 88,600 hl for the Auxerrois), i.e. 15%
of total agricultural production in value terms. Artistic and Historical Interest: glimpses of the Morvan in clear
landscape of vales, hills, forests and bare plateaux. old districts, little streets and half- weather; the Cistercian abbey Events: 3rd weekend in May,
As we follow the Armançon river, we discover timbered houses, churches, town- church of Pontigny. “Fleurs de Vignes” (Auxerrois
Grape varieties: as elsewhere in Burgundy, Pinot Noir for
a land where water, stone and history combine reds and Chardonnay for whites; but also Gamay (blended houses, covered market, corn wine festival); 2nd weekend in
harmoniously to express a relaxed rhythm of life with Pinot Noir in bourgogne passe-tout-grain), César exchange, etc. Not to mention Events: 1st Sunday in November, “Concours des Vins
exemplified by the Armançon Canal, elegant (gives structure and tannin to Irancy wines), Pinot Gris the gastronomic restaurant La February, “Saint-Vincent du Grand Auxerrois” (wine
(on the Côte Saint-Jacques), Sauvignon (at Saint-Bris-le- Côte Saint-Jacques, in the capable Tournante du Chablisien” show); 3rd Sunday in January,
châteaux, pretty villages with their handsome Vineux), Melon (at Vézelay), Sacy (for crémant), etc.
hands of the Lorain family for (wine festival); 4th weekend “Saint-Vincent Tournante de
stone houses, etc. l’Auxerrois“ (wine festival); in
generation after generation. in November, Chablis wine
the winegrowers also produce a Pinot Noir and a festival and show; in May, January at Chitry, “Fêtes des
THE RESURRECTION few hectares of the old Melon grape variety. Event: 3rd or 4th Sunday in Chablis, Yonne Wine Market. Amis de Chitry” (wine festival).
OF THE VÉZELAY VINEYARDS Starting from the picturesque village of Vézelay and October depending on the date
After vanishing almost without trace, the Vézelay its basilica of Sainte-Madeleine, the wine road leads of the wine harvest, Wine Auxerre area Vézelay area
vineyards have made a triumphant comeback in the through these still-youthful vineyards, particularly in Harvest Festival at Joigny.
last twenty years. And what could be more appro- the direction of Saint-Père where the great chef To see in Auxerre: splendid To see at Vézelay, village of
priate for this landmark of spiritual Burgundy Marc Meneau holds court, and then Tharoiseau. We
Tonnerre area townscape above the Yonne character and distinction on its
and remarkable historical “eternal hill”: Romanesque basi-
perched atop its "eternal hill"? For historical return to Vézelay via the Cure valley where the vil- To see in Tonnerre: the heritage (cathedral of Saint- lica of Sainte-Madeleine, classi-
reasons, the "Bourgogne Vézelay" appellation has lages of Pierre-Perthuis and Asquins give us a fore- Fosse Dionne, a beautiful circular Etienne, Clock Tower, former fied as part of UNESCO World
been attributed to a Chardonnay white wine, but taste of the Morvan countryside. ■ washhouse (18C) formed on a abbey of Saint-Germain, etc.). Heritage; the Lapidary Museum;
mysterious underground spring the Franciscan monastery of La
and the source of many a legend; To see at Saint-Bris-le- Cordelle ; Zervos Museum.
the Hôtel-Dieu (13C) erected by Vineux: the Bailly wine cel- In the vicinity: the village of
Marguerite de Bourgogne, its lars - 4 hectares of galleries Saint-Père-sous-Vézelay (church of
sick ward and little hospital devoted to Crémant de Notre-Dame, restaurant L'Espérance
museum. Bourgogne and laid out in the run by Marc Meneau); the Cure
former underground quarries valley (Pierre-Perthuis, site of the
Events: Easter wekend, “Les which provided the stone Fontaines-Salées, caves, etc.).
Vinées Tonnerroises” (wine festi- for Pontigny Abbey.
val); 4th Sunday in January, Event: end of January, “Saint-
“Saint-Vincent Tournante du To see at Quenne: local Vincent Tournante du Vézelien”
Tonnerrois” (wine festival). heritage wine museum (wine festival).

www.bourgogne-tourisme.com 31
 La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

On the Right Bank

of the Loire
The vineyards of the Nièvre department form part of the Centre-Loire and do not belong to the Burgundy wine
area. Spread out along the right bank of the Loire, they have long suffered from a certain lack of recognition, but
now this region of infinite charm has its very own Wine Road, taking you from the slopes of Pouilly-sur-Loire,
home of the famous Pouilly-Fumé, to the vineyards of the Coteaux du Giennois above Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire,
with a little foray into the Sancerre area on the other side of the river, in the Cher department.
La Charité-sur-Loire

A
convenient starting point for our
itinerary is exit 26 on the A77 motor-
way running from Paris to Nevers.
If you take the road alongside the Loire
towards the little town of Pouilly-sur-Loire
you will in next to no time come across
the first low-trained vines which are a feature
of the locality.

IN THE LAND OF “FUMÉ” WINE

The mighty river Loire has already
completed half of its journey towards
the sea by the time it meets its first
appellations, sloping gently down from the
Nivernais hills: the famous Pouilly-Fumé,
produced from the Sauvignon grape

Pouillysur-Loire

32 www.bourgogne-tourisme.com
 The Coteaux de Pouilly-Sancerre Wine Road

variety and, to a lesser degree, the Pouilly-sur-

Loire, the product of the Chasselas variety. Both
of these dry, fruity white wines acquired AOC
status in 1937. The former (not to be confused
with Pouilly-Fuissé (Chardonnay) in the
Mâconnais) is known and recognised
throughout the world, indeed 60% of the wine
is exported. It owes its unusual name to the
grapes from which it is made. When they ripen,
the dense little berries of the Sauvignon Blanc are
covered with a grey bloom which is the colour of
fumée or smoke. But the term also refers to the
characteristic flint-stone aromas conferred by the
Pouilly locality, in addition to the pronounced
fruitiness of the wine. Still keeping to the banks
of the Loire whose waters flow between little
islands, gravel and sand banks, we quickly come
to the quiet little town of Pouilly-sur-Loire whose
activity has since time immemorial centred on

© M. Joly
the river and the wine trade.
Nevers Saint-Andelain
LITTLE VILLAGES AND GREAT CHÂTEAUX
In the town, now a much appreciated gastro-
nomic centre, the Clos de Chaumiennes and a
THE OTHER WINE AREAS OF THE NIÈVRE
few old winegrowers’ houses stand as reminders
of Pouilly’s history as a wine producer. Along Although the Nièvre is less readily associated with wine than the other three departments of the Burgundy region,
the banks of the Loire, you can still see the it nevertheless has its fair share of little-known vineyards which are well worth getting to know. In addition to the vineyards we
remains (quays, docks) of the port built by the have encountered on the Wine Road (Pouilly and the Coteaux du Giennois), there are three other little areas to look out for, if
townspeople in the 19th century to facilitate the only for their originality:
wine trade. The metal bridge spanning the river, - Vignoble des Coteaux charitois: near La Charité-sur-Loire, and more Burgundian in atmosphere; produces a white wine, for
built from 1899, is still used today. Continuing the most part in Chardonnay, and a red wine in Pinot Noir and on occasion Gamay.
on our way betwixt Loire and vineyards, we come - Vignoble du Rioussat: since 1993, south of Nevers and near Saint-Pierre on the banks of the Allier, this old wine area has taken on a
to the charming little village of Les Loges where new lease of life thanks to the determination of the mayor of Livry and the backing of 580 shareholders. Over an area of
there are still many 19th century winegrowers’ 15 hectares, it produces red wines (Pinot Noir and Gamay), a white wine (Chardonnay), a bled rosé (blend of Pinot and Gamay), a spark-
houses to be seen. They can be spotted by the ling wine (Pinot and Chardonnay blend) and a vin gris (white wine made from red grapes, particularly Pinot Noir).
presence of an outside stairway straddling the cel- - Vignoble de Tannay: in 1990, in the Vaux d'Yonne (Yonne Vales), to the south of Clamecy, a handful of enthusiasts
lar and providing access to the ground floor. In decided to “reconstruct” the vineyards of yesteryear. Today, there are some forty hectares of vines shared between five
this part of the wine area, the half-buried wine independent winegrowers. A collective wine-making cellar, situated at Tannay, produces white, red and rosé wines.
cellar was built first and the building was then

www.bourgogne-tourisme.com 33
 La Route des Vins de Bourgogne
YOUR ITINERARY
Pouilly-sur-Loire –
erected in function of the restrictions imposed by wine unites us”. Over an area of Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire
the cellar. We now leave the riverside and climb 2800 hectares and 14 communes, (43 km)
up through the vineyards to the village of Saint- this wine-growing area in the Centre-
Andelain. From here there is a superb view over Loire region produces white wines from Via Les Loges, Saint-Andelain,
the Loire valley on both the Nièvre and Berry the Sauvignon grape variety, but also Tracy-sur-Loire, Saint-Satur,
Sancerre, Les Fouchards.
sides of the river with the Donzy and Sancerre Pinot Noir reds and rosés that are quite
hills beyond. Here, the Château du Nozet, rebuilt similar to the wines of Pouilly-sur-Loire.
in the 19th century in the flamboyant After 20 kilometres or so in the
Neo-Gothic style, rises proudly from the middle Sancerrois, the road crosses
of the Ladoucette estate, one of the great names the Loire again and we
in Pouilly-Fumé wine. find ourselves once more
in the Nièvre at Cosne-
ACROSS THE RIVER Cours-sur-Loire at the
AND INTO THE CHER DEPARTMENT confluence of the Loire and
We pass under the motorway and arrive at Tracy- the Nohain. After you have
sur-Loire and its château, fief of another great visited the town, you can
wine property which has been in the hands of the choose between taking the A77
Estutt d’Assay family for over four hundred years. motorway which will bring you back to
A wine tasting can be arranged in this prestigious where you started, or climbing up to Saint-
setting. A little further on, the road crosses the Père-les-Cosne in the upper part of the town.
Loire and we find ourselves in the neighbouring Here, you are in the heart of the Cosne vineyards
department of the Cher and in another wine area which produce white, red and rosé wines under
of repute, the Sancerre. The good relations exis- the “Coteaux du Giennois” appellation. The
ting between the Sancerre and Pouilly vineyards name is taken from the town of Gien, in the Loiret
are reflected in the motto of the Confrérie des department downstream on the Loire, which
Baillis de Pouilly-sur-Loire: “Water divides us but marks the northern limit of the appellation. ■

Clamecy

34 www.bourgogne-tourisme.com
 The Coteaux de Pouilly-Sancerre Wine Road

ON THE WAY...
FACTS AND FIGURES
Pouilly-sur-Loire Saint-Andelain
The Pouilly-sur-Loire Wine Area
To see: church of Saint-Pierre (13C) under To do: Pouilly-Fumé tasting in the cellar
Surface area: 1240 hectares on the communes of Pouilly- the dual patronage of Saint Nicholas (for the boat- of the Neo-Gothic Château du Nozet, part
sur-Loire, Tracy-sur-Loire, Saint-Andelain, Saint-Laurent, men) and Saint-Vincent (for the winegrowers); of the Ladoucette wine estate and headquarters
Mesves-sur-Loire, Saint-Martin-sur-Nohain and Garchy.
the Pavillon du Milieu de Loire (information of the Confrérie des Baillis de Pouilly.
centre on the natural habitats of the river and
Terroir: on the wine slopes, soils composed of the Pouilly vineyards – permanent exhibition: Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire
kimmeridgian marls, hard limestone and flint,
which give the Pouilly-Fumé its minerality; more “Between Wine and Water”); “Les Moulins à Vent”
classic clay-limestone soils beside the Loire. cooperative wine cellar. To see: the church of Saint-Agnan (11C and
15C) and its tower porch; the Gothic church
Wine varieties: Sauvignon Blanc for the Pouilly- To do: walking along the Milieu de Loire trails, of Saint-Jacques and its tower-porch; the Munici-
Fumé appellation (1200 ha), Chasselas for the footpaths for exploring the Val de Loire nature reserve pal Museum devoted to the life of the Loire boat-
Pouilly-sur-Loire appellation (40 ha). and the vineyards (3 circuits for unaccompanied men; the Chaplain’s House (16C); the Musée
walks or guided visits); a canoeing expedition on Paysan de Bourgogne Nivernaise (rural heritage)
Production: 70,000 hectolitres per year of Pouilly- the Loire as far as Cosne; visiting a wine cellar at La Celle-sur-Loire; the monumental winepress
Fumé, 2250 hectolitres per year of Pouilly-sur-Loire. (every day in summer the winegrowers take it in turns (18C) of the storehouse of Saint-Loup.
to welcome you).
Wines: Pouilly-Fumé is a dry white wine generously To do: discovery walks in the region (5 marked
associating minerality and fruitiness. Depending on the Events: in July, Fête des Terroirs (wine auction); circuits: the banks of the Loire, Villechaud,
terroir, its character may be fresh and lively or pure and Saint Pére, Bannay and Rognon).
15 August, wine fair; in October, new wine festival.
long in the mouth, with a fruit (citrus fruit, passion fruit,
lychee, etc) always in evidence. It can be kept for between
five and ten years but is usually at its best after two or
three years. The Pouilly-sur-Loire is lighter and more
discreet – a thirst-quenching wine par excellence. Pure
© M. Joly

and refreshing, it makes an ideal accompaniment for a

snack with friends or small fried fish from the Loire.

The Coteaux du Giennois Wine Area

Surface area: 182 hectares in production (765 ha clas-

sified) over 14 communes, including 7 in the Nièvre
department (La-Celle-sur-Loire, Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire,
Myennes, Neuvy, Pougny, Saint-Loup and Saint-Père).

Terroir: siliceous or limestone soils of the slopes

dominating the Loire.

Grape varieties: Sauvignon (70 ha), Pinot and

Gamay (112 ha).

Production: 10,997 hl in 2005 (43% in red, 41%

in white, 16% in rosé).
Pouilly-sur-Loire

www.bourgogne-tourisme.com 35
 La Route des Vins de Bourgogne
W HERE TO FIND MORE INFORMATION
INTERNET BROCHURES AND LEAFLETS

INFORMATION ON WINES GENERAL INFORMATION SPECIFIC INFORMATION F-21203 Beaune Cedex. THE MÂCONNAIS-BEAUJOLAIS
Tel. + 33 (0)3 80 26 21 30 WINE ROAD (ROUTE DES VINS
If you would like to find out more The Interprofessional Bureau for Several leaflets, brochures and tourist maps www.ot-beaune.fr MÂCONNAIS-BEAUJOLAIS)
about Burgundy wines and wine areas Burgundy Wines (BIVB) has are available at tourist offices and infor- or www.beaune-burgundy.com The “Route des Vins Mâconnais-Beaujolais”
(technical information, addresses of published a Map of the Burgundy mation bureaux throughout Burgundy: has published a 60-page guide presenting
winegrowers, wine festivals, etc.), Wine Road (Carte de La Route GRANDS VINS WINE ROAD 68 villages-stopovers and 8 tourist circuits.
please consult the website of the Inter- des Vins de Bourgogne) which also GRANDS CRUS WINE ROAD (ROUTE TOURISTIQUE DES ☛ Further information:
professional Bureau for Burgundy includes full details of members (ROUTE TOURISTIQUE DES GRANDS VINS DE BOURGOGNE) Route des Vins Mâconnais-Beaujolais,
Wines (Bureau Interprofessionnel of the “From Vineyards to Cellars” GRANDS CRUS DE BOURGOGNE) The “Association de la Route Touristique des 6, rue Dufour, F-71000 Mâcon.
des Vins de Bourgogne - BIVB). quality charter. It has also published The “Association de la Route touristique Grands Vins de Bourgogne” has published a Tel. + 33.(0)3.85.38.09.99.
a brochure entitled Bourgognes en Fête des Grands Crus de Bourgogne” has a bilingual tourist map (French-English). http://suivezlagrappe.free.fr
☛ in French: listing the main wine events very informative website. ☛ Further information:
www.vins-bourgogne.fr taking place throughout the year ☛ Further information: C.C.I. Chalon-sur-Saône, B.P. 190, THE COTEAUX DE POUILLY
☛ in English: in Burgundy. C.C.I. Dijon, Service Tourisme, F-71105 Chalon-sur-Saône Cedex. WINE ROAD (ROUTE DES
www.bourgogne-wines.com B.P. 370, F-21010 Dijon Cedex. www.laroutedesgrandsvins.com COTEAUX DE POUILLY )
The vineyards of the Nièvre department,
Both these bilingual publications Tel. + 33 (0)3 80 65 92 65
THE YONNE WINE ROAD including those of Pouilly-sur-Loire, are
This website includes a search (French-English) are available at the www.route-des-grands-crus-de-bourgogne.com
(ROUTE TOURISTIQUE DES partially covered in the brochure entitled
engine dedicated to wine tourism tourist offices and information bureaux
VIGNOBLES DE L'YONNE) “Route des Vignobles du Coeur de France”.
(under the heading "Burgundy with of Burgundy, and from the BIVB The Beaune Tourist Office has published
The “Association de la Route touristique ☛ Further information:
a Difference") and gives all the (B.P. 150 -- F-21204 Beaune Cedex). a bilingual tourist guide (French-English):
des Vignobles de l'Yonne” has published a Maison des Vignerons, 2, rue des
addresses you need to plan a success- “Beaune, Couleurs Vin” (price: 5 euros).
bilingual tourist map (French-English). Ecoles, F-58150 Pouilly-sur-Loire.
ful wine-related trip in Burgundy. ☛ Further information:
☛ Further information: Tel. + 33 (0)3 86 39 06 83
To facilitate the search process, the site Office de tourisme, B.P. 87,
C.C.I. Auxerre, 26, rue Etienne-Dolet, www.pouilly-fume.com
is grouped around four simple ques-
tions: What to do? When? Where? F-89015 Auxerre Cedex.
How? The website exists in English, www.yonne.cci.fr/vignobles-yonne.asp
French and German versions.

TOURIST INFORMATION
For tourist information about Bur-
gundy, please consult the websites
of the Burgundy Regional Tourist
Board (Comité Régional du
Tourisme de Bourgogne):

☛ in French:
www.bourgogne-tourisme.com
and
www.vite-en-bourgogne.com
☛ in English:
www.burgundy-tourism.com
☛ in German:
www.burgund-tourismus.com

36 www.bourgogne-tourisme.com
 Practical Information
HOW TO EXPLORE THE BURGUNDY WINE ROAD
BY CAR PUBLIC TRANSPORT

GRANDS CRUS YONNE

WINE ROAD WINE ROAD

Access via motorway A6 (Paris-Lyon): Access via motorway A6 (Paris-Lyon):

exits 24 and 24.1 (Beaune). exits 18 (Joigny), 19 and 20 (Auxerre,
Access via motorway A31 (Metz- Chablis, Tonnerre), 21 (Nitry) and GRANDS CRUS Regional trains (TER) stopping at ☛ Transdev RSL.
Beaune): exits 3 (Dijon-Sud) 22 (Avallon, Vézelay). WINE ROAD Chalon-sur-Saône, Chagny, Cheilly- Tél. : 03 85 45 86 10 - www.r-s-l.fr
les-Maranges, Dezize-les-Maranges,
and 1 (Nuits-St-Georges). Rully, Fontaines-Mercurey, Tournus.
VINEYARDS OF THE NIÈVRE ◗ By train
Access via motorway A39 (Bourg-en-
TGV railway stations: Dijon and Beaune. ☛ www.ter-sncf.com/bourgogne YONNE WINE ROAD
Bresse-Dijon): exit Dijon-Centre.
☛ www.sncf.com
Regional trains (TER) stopping at ◗ By train
GRANDS VINS ◗ By bus Regional trains (TER) stopping at
WINE ROAD Dijon, Gevrey-Chambertin, Vougeot, Line 1: Chalon-sur-Saône, Mercurey,
Nuits-St-Georges, Corgoloin, Ladoix- Auxerre, Joigny, Tonnerre, Augy-Vaux,
Access via motorway A77 (Paris- Charrecey, St-Léger-sur-Dheune, Couches. Champs-Saint-Bris, Vincelles, Cravant,
Nemours-Nevers): exits 22 and 23 Serrigny, Beaune, Meursault, Santenay. Line 7: Chagny, Chalon-sur-Saône,
☛ www.ter-sncf.com/bourgogne Accolay, Arcy-sur-Cure, Avallon.
(Cosne-s/Loire), 26 (Pouilly-sur- Buxy, Givry, Saint-Gengoux-le-National. ☛ www.ter-sncf.com/bourgogne
Loire), 28 and 29 (La Charité-sur- Line 55: Chagny, Rully, Mercurey, Dracy.
◗ By bus
Loire). ☛ Transdev RSL.
Line 44: starting from Dijon. Stopping
Tél. : 03 85 45 86 10 - www.r-s-l.fr ◗ By bus
at Chenôve, Marsannay-la-Côte, Regional TER Bus from Montbard
Access via motorway A6 (Paris-Lyon): Couchey, Fixin, Brochon, Gevrey- to Avallon and Vézelay.
exits 25 (Chalon-Nord), 26 (Chalon- Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis,Cham- ☛ www.ter-sncf.com/bourgogne
Sud) and 27 (Tournus).
MÂCONNAIS-BEAUJOLAIS
bolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Nuits-Saint- WINE ROAD Line 1: Auxerre – Joigny.
Georges, Ladoix-Serrigny, Aloxe-Corton, Line 4: Auxerre – Chablis – Tonnerre.
MÂCONNAIS-BEAUJOLAIS Chorey-les-Beaune, Beaune, Pommard, ☛ Trans-Yonne.
WINE ROAD ◗ By train
Monthelie, Meursault, Auxey-Duresses, Tel. + 33 (0)3 86 72 89 89
TGV railway station: Mâcon-Loché.
Saint-Romain, Puligny-Montrachet, www.lyonne.com
☛ www.sncf.com
Chassagne-Montrachet.
Regional trains (TER) stopping
☛ Transdev Côte-d’Or.
Tél. : + 33 (0)3 80 78 93 32
at Mâcon, Senozon, Fleurville, VINEYARDS OF THE NIÈVRE
Tournus, Crêches-sur-Saône,
et 0 800 21 32 33 (N° vert)
Romanèche-Thorins. ◗ By train
☛ www.ter-sncf.com/bourgogne Corail trains: Paris-Nevers and
GRANDS VINS
WINE ROAD Lyon-Nevers.
◗ By bus ☛ www.sncf.com
© B.I.V.B. / D. R.

Access via motorway A6 (Paris-Lyon): ◗ By train Line 7: Mâcon – La-Roche-Vineuse. Regional trains (TER) stopping
exits 27 (Tournus), 28 (Mâcon-Nord), TGV railway stations: Chalon-sur- Line 10: Mâcon – Chalon-sur-Saône. at Nevers, La Charité-sur-Loire,
29 (Mâcon-Sud) and 30 (Belleville- Saône and Le Creusot/Montchanin. Line 71: Tournus, Chardonnay, Lugny, Pouilly-sur-Loire, Cosne-sur-Loire.
sur-Saône). ☛ www.sncf.com Igé, Hurigny, Mâcon. ☛ www.ter-sncf.com/bourgogne

www.bourgogne-tourisme.com 37
 La Route des Vins de Bourgogne
HOW TO EXPLORE THE BURGUNDY WINE ROAD
ON FOOT OR BY BIKE

GRANDS CRUS WINE ROAD downloadable from: www.ot-beaune.fr where a château surrounded by magnifi-
under the heading “Dépliants”. cent gardens and an astonishing Bicycle
On foot ☛ Côte-d’Or Tourisme. Museum awaits your visit. The itinerary is
A footpath runs alongside the Grands Tel. + 33 (0)3 80 63 69 49 based on France’s very first Voie Verte,
Crus Wine Road (Route des Grands Crus) Fax + 33 (0)3 80 49 90 97 opened in 1997, and following the trace
from start to finish. www.cotedor-tourisme.com of an abandoned railway line.
☛ Comité départemental de Randonnée The tourist map of the Côte-d’Or, A map - Voies Vertes and cycling in
pédestre de Côte-d’Or. published by the Côte-d’Or Depart- Southern Burgundy (Voies Vertes et Cyclo-
Tel. + 33 (0)3 80 63 64 60 mental Tourist Board, is extremely use- tourisme en Bourgogne du Sud) – is avai-
ful for exploring the Grands Crus lable from the tourist offices, and may be
By bike Wine Road in its entirety. downloaded on the website of the Comité
From Dijon to Vougeot, the itinerary is Départemental de Tourisme de Saône-et-
shared by motorists and cyclists but GRANDS VINS WINE ROAD Loire (www.bourgogne-du-sud.com).
traffic is relatively light. ☛ Comité Départemental
From Dijon to Gevrey-Chambertin, On foot du Tourisme de Saône-et-Loire.
cyclists can travel with their bikes Several footpaths take you through the Tel. + 33 (0)3 85 21 02 20
on the buses of the Compagnie des vineyards of the Côte Chalonnaise. [email protected]
Rapides de Côte-d'Or (line 60). In this They are described in the topographical
case, reservations must be made one guide entitled La Saône-et-Loire à pied MÂCONNAIS-BEAUJOLAIS
day ahead but at no extra charge. (Ref. D-071). These itineraries are an WINE ROAD
Maximum 5 cyclists per bus. excellent way to discover some magnifi-
☛Les Rapides de Côte-d’Or. cent countryside and many traditional On foot
Tel. +33 (0)3 80 78 93 42 wine villages. Southern Burgundy is criss-crossed by
Fax + 33 (0)3 80 74 01 04 ☛ Comité départemental de Randonnée numerous footpaths taking you
e-mail: [email protected] pédestre de Saône-et-Loire. through landscapes of exceptional
Between Vougeot and Aloxe-Corton, Tel./Fax + 33 (0)3 85 58 98 17 beauty, particularly in the Roche de
it is best to avoid the heavy traffic e-mail: [email protected] Solutré and Roche de Vergisson sector.
on the N74 and to follow the vineyard The region also has much to offer on
paths, accessible to hybrid and By bike the architectural and cultural front
mountain bikes. Over the northern part of the Grands (châteaux of Pierreclos and Berzé-le-
From Aloxe-Corton to Beaune, cyclists Vins Wine Road a “Green Way” (“Voie Châtel, numerous Romanesque
can once again join the Grands Verte”) of the Cycling Tour of Burgundy® churches, souvenirs of the great poet
Crus Wine Road as motor traffic is runs from Chalon-sur-Saône to Sante- Lamartine). These itineraries are descri-
relatively light. nay (partly alongside the Canal du bed in the topographical guide La
From Beaune to Santenay, the Cycling Centre), via Chagny, before reaching Saône-et-Loire à pied (Ref. D-071).
Tour of Burgundy® (Tour de Bourgogne Cheilly-les-Maranges. ☛ Comité départemental
à vélo®) now follows the “Vineyard The little roads on the Rully - Mercurey - de randonnée pédestre de Saône-et-Loire.
Véloroute (Véloroute des Vignes) Givry stretch are slightly more hilly and Tel./Fax + 33 (0)3 85 51 06 15
© B.I.V.B. / MONNIER H.

over 22 km, passing through such vil- sometimes call for a certain physical effort. e-mail: [email protected]
lages as Pommard, Volnay, Meur- Starting from Givry, you return to the
sault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chas- Cycling Tour of Burgundy® and a com-ple- By bike
sagne-Montrachet. tely safe itinerary on the Voie Verte which From Cluny to the gates of Mâcon:
Brochure on the “Véloroute des Vignes” winds its way along the foot of, or very Thanks to the Voie Verte, you
available in the tourist offices, and close to, the vineyards as far as Cormatin can explore part of the Mâconnais-

38 www.bourgogne-tourisme.com
 Practical Information

ON FOOT OR BY BIKE A WELCOME OF QUALITY

THE YONNE WINE ROAD these documents may be downloaded

from the website:
On foot www.tourisme-yonne.com
At the gates of Paris, the Yonne ☛ Agence de développement
department has a vast array of foot- touristique de l’Yonne.
paths for discovering the famous and Tel. + 33 (0)3 86 72 92 00
lesser known vineyards: in the vicinity www.tourisme-yonne.com
of the “Eternal Hill” of Vézelay,
the Yonne Valley, the Tonnerrois, VINEYARDS
or around the beautiful villages OF THE NIÈVRE DEPARTMENT
of Chablis, Irancy and Saint-Bris-
Beaujolais Wine Road in conditions le-Vineux. On foot
of complete safety and without These itineraries are described in There are numerous footpaths – long-
difficulty. In particular, this stretch several topographical guides: L'Yonne distance paths and discovery trails

© B.I.V.B. / MONNIER H.
of the Cycling Tour of Burgundy® à pied (Ref. D 089), Entre Cure (for the less experienced walker) – for
includes the Bois-Clair tunnel, the et Yonne (Ref. P 892), Le Pays Avallon- exploring the Nivernais countryside,
longest tunnel for cyclists in Europe nais à pied (Ref. P 893). in particular the Val de Loire and
(1.6 km). The itinerary passes by ☛ Comité départemental its vineyards.
the foot of the imposing medieval de Randonnée pédestre de l’Yonne. The topographical guide La Nièvre à
castle of Berzé-le-Chatel and crosses Tel./Fax + 33 (0)3 86 52 44 23 pied (Ref. 058) gives a detailed
the Mâconnais vineyards all the e-mail: [email protected] description of these itineraries. FROM VINEYARDS TO CELLARS (“DE VIGNES EN CAVES”)
way down to the terminus at www.rando-pedestre89.com ☛ Comité départemental
Charnay-les-Mâcon. de Randonnée pédestre de la Nièvre. Wine professionals bid you a warm welcome
The southernmost part of the By bike Tel./Fax + 33 (0)3 86 59 09 44 On the Burgundy Wine Road, 311 wine professionals greet
Mâconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road The Yonne Wine Road runs through e-mail: [email protected] you with a smile on their lips (and a glass in their hand!), ready
takes you through some spectacular hilly country and the little roads to share their enthusiasm with you and demonstrate the
landscapes in hilly country, particularly are sometimes quite steep, particularly By bike qualities of their wines. The signatories of the “From
in the area around the Roche de Solutré around Chablis, Irancy and The Cycling Tour of Burgundy® does Vineyards to Cellars” quality charter – winegrowers, members
and the Roche de Vergisson. These steep Saint-Bris-le-Vineux. not run through the Val de Loire. of cooperative cellars, wine merchants-producers – have all
little country roads are recommended The going is easier on the stretches However, there is a very dense pledged to guarantee you a warm and personalised welcome.
only for experienced and fit cyclists, forming part of the Cycling Tour of network of little country roads with Just look out for the “De Vignes en Caves” sign at the
used to sustained physical effort. Burgundy®, particularly alongside little traffic, making this western entrance to the building in question – and open the door! Your
A map - Voies Vertes and cycling in the Nivernais Canal, the Yonne part of Burgundy an ideal destination host will offer you a free tasting of at least one wine, and will be happy to unveil
Southern Burgundy (Voies vertes et between Cravant and Auxerre for cyclists. the secrets of wine varieties, appellations and the flavours and aromas of his
Cyclotourisme en Bourgogne du Sud) – and the Burgundy Canal in the The brochure La Nièvre en cyclo- Burgundy wines. You will then be able to buy some wine on the spot and take
is available from the tourist offices, and Tonnerre area. tourisme is available in the tourist back home a few good bottles to share with family and friends.
may be downloaded on the website These stretches are described in offices and from the Agence de déve-
of the Comité Départemental de several documents available from the loppement touristique de la Nièvre. ☛ The list of the 311 wine domains belonging to the “From Vineyards to Cellars”
Tourisme de Saône-et-Loire tourist offices: La Véloroute Voie Verte ☛ Agence de développement quality charter is featured on the map of the Burgundy Wine Road published by
(www.bourgogne-du-sud.com). canal du Nivernais, La Véloroute touristique de la Nièvre. the Interprofessional Bureau for Burgundy Wines (Bureau Interprofessionnel des
☛ Comité départemental autour du canal du Nivernais, A vélo Tel. + 33 (0)3 86 59 14 22 vins de Bourgogne - BIVB) and available from the tourist offices and information
du Tourisme de Saône-et-Loire. le long de l'Yonne et du canal du Fax + 33 (0)3 86 59 90 67 bureaux of Burgundy. This list may also be consulted on the websites of the
Tel. + 33 (0)3 85 21 02 20 Nivernais, A vélo le long du canal de e-mail: [email protected] BIVB (www.vins-bourgogne.fr) and the Burgundy Regional Tourist Board
[email protected] Bourgogne. The last-mentioned of www.nievre-tourisme.com (www.bourgogne-tourisme.com).

www.bourgogne-tourisme.com 39
 Bourgogne Tourisme
(Comité Régional du Tourisme de Bourgogne)
B.P. 20623 - 21006 DIJON Cedex - FRANCE

www.bourgogne-tourisme.com