Vogue Australia December 2017
Vogue Australia December 2017
MARGOT
ROBBIE
Australian
SUPERNOVA
Weinstein
watershed:
what’s
next for
women?
Influencers’
SECRETS
to stylish
gift giving
BEAUTY
SLEEP
how to fake
eight hours
s t a r d u s t
UNFOR GETTABLE EVENING
LOOKS TO SHINE IN
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THE FUSION COLLECTION
GEORGJENSEN.COM
CONTENTS
December 2017
Margot Robbie wears
an Alexander McQueen
dress, belt and boots.
Stone Paris earrings.
Cartier ring. Tiffany & Co.
ring. Make-up from Max
Factor, starting with
Miracle Match Foundation
in Natural 50; on cheeks,
Creme Bronzer in Bronze;
on eyes, Masterpiece
Nude Palette eyeshadow
in Cappuccino Nudes and
False Lash Effect Mascara
in Black; on lips, Color
Elixir Universal Lip Liner
and Color Elixir Lipstick in
Maroon Dust. Fragrance:
Calvin Klein Deep
Euphoria EDP.
Stylist:
Christine Centenera
Photographer:
Lachlan Bailey
Hair: Akki
Make-up: Pati Dubroff
Manicure: Elisa Ferri
38 EDITOR’S LETTER 66 94
42 CONTRIBUTORS Crown jewels; Body of work; Pick of the bunch; TERMS OF ADORNMENT
Like minds. Cartier unveils its latest high jewellery collection,
46 THIS MONTH ON VOGUE.COM.AU
68 with hopes it will resonate for many years to come.
48 VOGUE VIDEO
THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS
49 VOGUE VAULT
Meet the very cool Virginie Viard, Karl Arts
Lagerfeld’s creative collaborator at Chanel. 103
Viewpoint 74 A BRUSH WITH THE LAW
50 COLOUR CHAMELEON Wealth, scandal and sensational twists and turns
REACH OUT Actress, model, scriptwriter … Sarah Ellen characterised Australia’s biggest art fraud case.
The focus shifts to sleeves this party season. shape-shifts in party-ready prints. 106
58 82 WELL VERSED
SITTING PRETTY IDENTITY CHECK Rupi Kaur on her poetry book The Sun and Her
VOL LXII NO 12 WHOLE NO 642 *RECOMMENDED PRICE
Colombian-based Johanna Ortiz’s designs are Burberry’s vision for its September 2017 Flowers and how she handles social media.
taking her to new heights. collection beams out a message of optimism. 108
64 88 STROKES OF GENIUS
SNAPSHOT PLAY IT BY EAR The Dutch golden age of the 17th century
Wondering what to throw on for your next soirée? The new breed of cocktail earrings have produced some of the world’s most
Reach for the heights of embellishment and shine. a mesmerising effect when worn. beloved masterpieces.
32 DECEMBER 2017
DIOR.COM
CONTENTS
December 2017
Vogue Gifts 210
121 NO FILTER
Micro to the maximum. High impact. All set to
GUIDE TO GIVING
glitter and shine. Dress up and dance ’til dawn.
Six influential women provide inspiration with
their personal styles and tips for the festive season.
Features
132
146 PRESENTS OF MINE 162
MAD ABOUT MARGOT
Do you plan presents way ahead of time or wing it
Margot Robbie on marriage, feminism and how
in the weeks before Christmas?
she wants to be more than just a movie star.
Beauty 194
138 LIGHTING THE WAY
Susie Cave has transformed her insiders’ label
OUTSIDE THE LINES
The Vampire’s Wife into a global brand.
Step to your own beat this party season with
swatches of perfectly imperfect pigments. 206
146 NIGHT SHIFT
The new breed of evening attire takes selectively
Gilt trip; On point.
from the past to say something new.
150
SCENTS AND SENSIBILITY 218
The go-to gift come festive season also happens
WHAT NEXT FOR WOMEN?
It was a year that began with the women’s march
178 to convey the most personal sentiment of all.
154
and ended with the Weinstein sex abuse scandal
reigniting empowerment – but how can we make
WHILE YOU WERE SLEEPING
the ordinary extraordinary?
What really happens to your skin and hair
88 when you nod off?
Voyage
Fashion 220
POSTCARD FROM MILAN
178
Prada chose its home base for the launch of
SOUND OF SUMMER
D U N C A N K I L L I C K S E B A S T I A N K I M E D WA R D U R R U T I A
its first resort collection.
The warmer months are bound by simplicity and
the lightness of knowing that all we need is a slick
swimsuit, a white T-shirt, an expertly tailored
225 HOROSCOPES
pair of boy pants and a few key pieces. 232 LAST WORD
200
CLIQUE COUTURE SUBSCRIBE TO VOGUE
TU RN TO PAG E 15 8 TO SU B SCRIB E
Haute couture autumn/winter ’17/’18 brought O R REN EW AN D RECEIVE A BO N US
B ELL ABOX SELECTIO N O F SKIN CARE ,
bands of dream women in creations that lingered MAKE- U P AN D LUXE B E AUT Y
PRO D UCTS VALU ED AT $126.
long after the gowns wafted past.
34 DECEMBER 2017
Edwina McCann
Editor-in-Chief [email protected]
D eput y E d it or a nd Fe at u re s D i re c t or S OPH I E T E DM A NS ON
[email protected]
Fa sh ion D i re c t or C H R I ST I N E C E N T E N E R A
Cre at i ve D i re c t or at L a r ge A L I S ON V E N E S S
ART [email protected]
A r t D i re c t or M A N DY A L E X
S en ior D e sig ner s BE C M c DI V E N DIJA N A S AVOR Ju n ior D e sig ner A RQU E T T E C O OK E
FASHION [email protected]
S en ior Fa sh ion E d it or K AT E DA RV I L L
Fa sh ion E d it or a nd Ma rket D i re c t or PH I L I PPA MORON E Y
Ju n ior Fa sh ion E d it or PE T TA C H UA Ma rket E d it or BE T H I E GI R M A I
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BEAUTY [email protected]
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COPY [email protected]
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E d it or ia l C o ord i n at or R E BE C CA S H A L A L A
DIGITA L [email protected]
D ig it a l E d it or ia l D i re c t or J U L I A F R A N K
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CONTRIBUTORS
A L IC E CAVA N AGH ( Pa r i s) V IC T OR I A C OL L I S ON (S p e cia l P roje c t s E d it or)
PI PPA HOLT ( L ondon) N ATA S H A I NC H L E Y ( Fa sh ion)
Ma rket i ng D i re c t or – L i fe s t y le DI A N A K AY Ma rket i ng Ma n a ger M E L I S S A MOR PH E T Bra nd Ma na ger M AGDA L E N A Z A JAC Event Ma rket i ng Ma na ger BRO OK E K I NG
Event s Ma n a ger DA N I E L L E I S E N BE RG Ma rket i ng E xe c ut i ve R AC H E L C H R I ST I A N S p on s or sh ip Ma na ger, St y le E L L E R I T S ON
C h ief D ig it a l O f f ic er N IC OL E S H E F F I E L D
D i re c t or of C om mu n ic at ion s S H A RY N W H I T T E N
G enera l Ma n a ger, Net work S a le s , NS W PAU L BL AC K BU R N
Prestige and Lifestyle Director NICK SMITH
VO GU E AUST R A L I A m a ga z i ne i s pu bl i she d by New sL i feMe d ia P t y Lt d (AC N 0 8 8 92 3 9 0 6). I S S N 0 0 4 2 - 8 019. New sL i feMe d ia P t y Lt d i s a w hol l y ow ne d s u b sid ia r y
of New s L i m it e d (AC N 0 0 7 8 7 1 178). C opy r ig ht 2 017 by New sL i feMe d ia P t y Lt d . A l l r ig ht s re s er ve d . 2 Holt St re et , Su r r y H i l l s , NS W 2 010. Tel : (02) 92 8 8 3 0 0 0.
Po s t a l add re s s: Vog ue A u s t ra l ia , New sL i feMe d ia , L evel 1 , L o cke d B a g 5 0 3 0, A lex a nd r ia , NS W 2 015 . E m a i l : e d it vog ue au s t @ vog ue .c om . au .
Melb ou r ne of f ic e : H W T Tower, L evel 5 , 4 0 Cit y R oad , S out h ba n k , Vic t or ia 3 0 0 6 . Tel : (0 3) 92 92 2 0 0 0. Fa x : (0 3) 92 92 32 9 9.
Br i sba ne of f ic e : 4 1 C a mpb el l St re et , B owen H i l l s , Q ue en sla nd 4 0 0 6 . Tel : (0 7) 3 6 6 6 6910. Fa x : (0 7) 3 62 0 2 0 01 .
36 DECEMBER 2017
VOGUE
Editor’s letter
T
Margot Robbie in ‘Mad about Margot’, from page 162.
here was a sense of nostalgia on the runways at the For me, Margot embodies the confidence of her generation to speak
most recent collections. Perhaps in these scary and up and wear it their own way. Thanks in part to the transparency
confusing times, designers are keen to remind us of allowed by social media, her generation will define feminism for a post-
when life was more simple. It’s a feeling echoed in Weinstein era. Jamila Rizvi discusses what comes next in the push for
New York-based photographer Lachlan Bailey’s gender equality in her story, ‘What’s next for women?’, from page 218.
shoot with Margot Robbie in the yard of a home in Being December, it’s time to think about party dressing, which we’ve
Long Island, which deliberately looks like it could covered with statement sleeves (from page 50), the best accessories, and
be the Australian backyard of his Melbourne dresses that shine (from page 210). Fashion features editor Alice Birrell
upbringing. The cover image somehow reminds me of the coastal explores our changing attitudes to occasion wear in ‘Night shift’ (from
holiday we Australians all long for at this time of the year, no matter page 206). Her story starts with a quote about modelling from 1972, the
where in the world we find ourselves. year I was born, which now sounds archaic in its objectification of women.
Margot exemplifies values we cherish in our national psyche: she is When it comes to changing attitudes and communities, the waves can go
straightforward, down to earth, light-hearted, self-deprecating, honest unnoticed when a tide is coming in gradually, but when a tsunami hits,
and optimistic. Her unbreakable bond with her friends and business things will never be the same again. And that is a good thing.
partners (as you will read in Sophie Tedmanson’s interview, from page The year of 2017 has had its challenges, surprises and disappointments,
162) is the modern equivalent of the relationship we call mateship. but there have also been watershed moments. So while our anxieties
On the cover, Margot is dressed in Alexander McQueen; the print on might mean we feel nostalgic for a safer past, not all was better then for
the silk organza is inspired by the beauty of a ramshackle garden that women, as we have discovered. I am excited about what is yet to come.
broke with traditional rules of planting. Her tough crystal-encrusted And about the wonderful young women, such as Margot, who will take
McQueen boots add an unexpected but relaxed edge to the gown. the best from the past, leave the worst, and move us into the next decade.
L ACHL AN BAILEY
38 DECEMBER 2017
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VOGUE
Contributors
JAMILA RIZVI
For this issue writer, presenter,
commentator and former editor
COSLOVICH
Vogue Australia, shot actress entire community. I’m deeply
Margot Robbie for this month’s faces. For this issue, Akki created
committed to the work of an undone textured ’do for
cover. On his approach to the Author and journalist Gabriella feminism and gender equality,
shoot Lachlan explains: “I saw Margot Robbie, whom he worked
Coslovich provides a fascinating because it benefits humanity
Margot once from a distance at with for the first time on this
insight into Australia’s biggest collectively.” Read Rizvi’s
Chateau Marmont in LA. She was shoot. “I thought Margot was just
alleged art fraud case, involving Vogue debut on page 218.
in simple clothes with natural so cool! She arrived on set with
works by artist Brett Whiteley,
hair and make-up, and I thought: great energy,” he says. “We shot at
from page 103. Coslovich first
‘How beautiful she looks. Why a fantastic location in Long Island
wrote about the allegedly forged
have I not seen her like that in City with perfect weather, and as
paintings for the Age newspaper
pictures?’” See how Lachlan a team we all worked really well
in 2010, long before the case
captured the actress’s raw together. Lachlan’s lighting and
reached the courts. “I found it
beauty in ‘Mad for Margot’, Christine Centenera’s styling both
perplexing that three audaciously
starting on page 162. made Margot look amazing.”
large paintings in the style of one
of Australia’s most high profile
and significant artists, Brett
Whiteley, were being discussed
in the art world and fingered as
suspected forgeries, and yet the
police seemed to be doing
nothing about it.”
K AT E B A L L I S
42 DECEMBER 2 0 1 7
VOGUE
Contributors
GEORGIA
ERIC BOMAN FOWLER
Diving into the Cartier archives
“My career highlights would be BLAIR
is a thrill few people will ever
experience, but photographer
shooting French Vogue with Inez
and Vinoodh and Italian Vogue BREITENSTEIN
with Vincent Peters, as well as When art director Mandy Alex
Eric Boman got to do just that, came across Blair Breitenstein’s
walking for Victoria’s Secret,
shooting some of the jewellery illustrations she knew
Miu Miu and Balmain,” says New
house’s most valuable pieces for
‘Terms of adornment’, from page
Zealand model Georgia Fowler,
whose face played canvas for the
HUNG VANNGO Breitenstein was the perfect
person to depict the couture
94. “The job was a pleasure from We asked Marc Jacobs Beauty
bold make-up concepts from page report from page 200. “I love the
beginning to end, because I was global artistry ambassador Hung
138. Now based in New York, theatrics in fashion, big shapes,
allowed to pick the pieces,” he Vanngo, who created the wildly
Fowler has worked with the best volume and texture. There are
says. Of his innovative styling, stunning looks for the beauty
in the business, including Marc just certain collections/pieces
he adds: “The concepts were feature ‘Outside the lines’, from
Jacob Beauty’s Hung Vanngo, that are basically asking to be
based on the design of the pieces page 138, for his top make-up
who created the vibrant party drawn, documented and
… I picked the twigs from my tips. “I don’t think there are rules
looks she showcases. “Hung is celebrated,” says Breitenstein on
garden, sourced the postcard, when using bold make-up colours.
incredibly talented; he really her love of fashion illustration.
ate the lobster minus one claw I think when working with bold
caters the make-up specifically “I have always collected and
and bought the flowers.” colours, or when doing any kind
to you and ensures that even cherished print magazines
of make-up, try not to over-think
the wildest make-up looks … so I am extremely excited
it too much. Sometimes the looks
still make you look gorgeous.” to be a part of this issue.”
work best when you experiment.”
Working with Vogue, he says, was
C L A R K E S COT T VA N E S S A G R A N DA
44 DECEMBER 2 0 1 7
1. Rodarte S/S ’18. 2. Giambattista Valli haute
3. couture A/W ’17/’18. 3. Rodarte S/S ’18.
4. Diptyque Feu d’agrumes scented candle,
$98. 5. Michael Kors bag, $1,609. 6. Hermès
resort ’18. 7. Margot Robbie at the Hamptons
International Film Festival, New York.
8. Backstage at Armani Privé A/W ’17/’18.
2.
9. Christie Nicolaides earrings, $229.
10. Chanel Ombre Première Longwear Powder
Eyeshadow in Désert Rouge, $52. 11. Christian
Louboutin shoes, $965. 12. Smith & Cult Nail
Lacquer in Shattered Souls, $32. 13. Chanel
STARGA ZI N G Rouge Allure 657 Lip Colour in No. 1, $55.
4.
A fashion
buyer on what 1.
you should be
wearing this PART Y FAVO U R S
Christmas
Day and all
summer long. Festive
accessories to
wish list this
Christmas.
8.
9.
5.
6.
7.
10.
STEP U P
Vogue’s etiquette
guide to giving
gifts, politely
declining a party
invitation and J I N G LE B ELLE
everything in
between. Copy these
beauty notes
to shine
brightly at
W O R D S : DA N I E L L E G AY P H OTO G R A P H S : G E O R G I N A E G A N G E T T Y I M A G E S I N D I G I TA L
every event
E D WA R D U R R U T I A A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
this holiday
season.
11. 12.
13.
ONLINE
Vogue.com.au
So, this is Christmas. It’s time to wrap yourself up in the holiday season – think fanciful
dressing with a dash of shimmer and sparkle. Follow our style, beauty and decorum advice
to cruise through the social season (or, if you’re so inclined, jingle all the way).
T WIT TER , FACEBOOK , INSTAG R AM AND TUMBLR: @VO G U E AU STR ALIA ; SNAPCHAT: @ M I S SVO G U E AU STR ALIA
DECEMBER 2017
Watch
Vogue
Australia
on
YouTube.
Subscribe to our YouTube channel Vogue Australia,
behind-the-scenes access,
www.youtube.com/vogueaustralia
48 DECEMBER 2017
VO G U E VAU LT
the exclusive rig ht to use those t radema rk s i n relation to by Victoria Collison and assisted by now editor-in-chief Edwina McCann, the shoot by Richard
maga zi nes published by NewsL ifeMed ia by the proprietor
of the t radema rk s. P ri nted i n Aust ra lia by PM P L i m ited.
Bailey took place in the historic Belltrees homestead in Scone, New South Wales. Hinze, an avid
Dist ributed by Gordon a nd Gotch Aust ra lia P t y Ltd,
tel 1300 650 666.
equestrian rider, was captured in a pink ballgown riding barefoot in one shot, and, in another,
hamming it up holiday-style with Maxwell. True blue kindred spirits, indeed.
DECEMBER 2017 49
V O G U E
V I E W
REACH OUT
W O R D S : A L I C E B I R R E L L H A I R : KO H M A K E- U P: P E T E R B E A R D M O D E L : L I LY H U TC H I N S O N
What party tricks do designers have up, or rather on, their sleeves this party season, as the focus shifts
to the new hot spot? Statement-making happens on the arms, ready to front up to any dance floor.
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
P O I N T
SHIMMY
SHIMMY YA
The clued-in move is to
focus on one element of pure
frivolity. A swishing tasselled
sleeve in midnight black keys
into a 70s mien without
playing costumes.
Ellery top, $995.
Witchery skirt,
$170. Louis
Vuitton earrings,
$2,400. Georg
Jensen bracelet,
$3,675.
DECEMBER 2017 51
VOGUE V IEW POINT
TRUMPET
CALL
Graphic shapes, like the
angles of a trumpet sleeve,
have cut through when
simplified and then echoed
in accessories; go simple,
go large and get noticed.
Hugo Boss dress,
$899. JY Jewels
earrings, $259.
Chelsea De Luca
necklace, $350.
52
ONE-SIDED
LESSON
The unexpected drama of
a sleeve completely lopped
off is a surprise angle to
hew to now. Balance
the scales with a single
statement earring on
the opposing side.
KitX dress, $895.
Ryan Storer
earrings, $350
for a set of
three. JY Jewels
necklaces,
$295 each.
Fragrance: Estée
Lauder Modern
Muse EDP.
BALLOON ART
Excess fabric is
for nights of excess.
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
worn as necklaces,
$399 each. Thomas
Sabo rings, $549
and $449.
VOGUE V IEW POINT
SHEER
DELIGHT
When eveningwear entered
the 21st century, it
announced itself via tweaks
of reinvention. A conceal-
reveal approach with
whisper-thin fabric is
flirtation of the coy variety.
Prada top, $1,780,
slip, $920, skirt,
$1,590, and belt,
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
$600. Cushla Whiting
earrings, $19,600.
Miu Miu necklace,
$1,570. Swarovski
bracelets, $299 each. JUSTIN RIDLER
54 DECEMBER 2017
VOGUE V IEW POINT
SUPERCUT
The cut-out is that rare
hybrid slotting in for
multiple dress codes:
covered in part for formal
occasions, yet slashed and
slinky enough to blind side
with a dose of sex appeal.
Dion Lee dress, $2,490.
Prada earrings, $640.
Mimco ring, $129. Giorgio
Armani shoes, $1,200.
TROPHY
CASE
The success of a
commanding look rests
on restraint. Gargantuan
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
sleeves are all-night-stayers
if worn with little else
to compete for
admirers’ attention.
Alex Perry dress,
$2,200. Tiffany
& Co. earrings,
$495. Thomas
Sabo ring, $549.
JUSTIN RIDLER
56 DECEMBER 2017
VOGUE V IEW POINT
IN PROFILE
Sitting pretty
As her signature ruffles, feminine prints and off-the-shoulder
eveningwear continue to take her to new heights, Colombian-based
designer Johanna Ortiz is determined to help her local community
along the way. By Zara Wong. Photographed by Candice Lake.
B
uzz in fashion does not just happen. It can’t be planned or the norm for a female designer, imparting a sense of joyfulness and ease
manufactured, and it will often take you by surprise. Johanna in her designs. Feminine flounces with a sense of strength: ruffles may
Ortiz’s eponymous label may seem like it has been an overnight be girlie, but they are stiffened with the right mix of cotton, or loosened
success – a constant sell-out, worn by celebrities to socialites (i.e. the and stretched out in sensuous prints. She tries everything on “because
kind of women who buy their own dresses) – but the label has been I want to understand how a woman would feel in one of my dresses or
more than 15 years in the making. tops”, she says. “I’m Latina, so I’m short and curvy – I’m not like the
It took a chance encounter: Lauren Santo Domingo, co-founder of models!” The ruffles or the necklines that gracefully drape around the
Moda Operandi, had spotted a guest wearing Ortiz’s label at a wedding. colourful seem plentiful to the eye, but there is a complex construction
And, as they say, the rest is fashion history. Ortiz presented the rest of that goes on to ensure that they flatter, with Ortiz paying close attention
her collection to Santo Domingo, who promptly sent her to New York. to the fabric, volume and the ease of the garment.
“It was all so fast, it was incredible – that was a big turning point,” For Santo Domingo, what set Ortiz apart was its authenticity. “Many
Ortiz tells me over the phone from her studio in Cali, Colombia. designers have an idea of what they think their brand should be, but it
Santo Domingo, who also frequently wears Ortiz’s label, thinks back to doesn’t always resonate because it’s grounded in an idea, not a reality.
when she first saw the collection. “I immediately thought of her What struck me about Johanna’s collection was its perfect authenticity,”
husband, her children, and how her life was about to change – and she says. “Johanna wasn’t trying to do sexy sleek or an intellectual
I asked if she was ready.” Parisienne type, she was staying true to herself … only she can capture
Ortiz sees this as one of her label’s major turning points, particularly the sultry, sophisticated South American spirit.”
in bringing it to international audiences. ”I was so nervous. I didn’t A proud Colombian (a T-shirt from her autumn/winter collection is
know anybody in fashion in New York and Lauren kept on saying: printed with the words “Colombia not Columbia”), she is excited that
‘You’re going to be fine!’” A few days later, Ortiz’s clothes were being her success has brought more attention to Colombian designers.
photographed for a cover shoot and soon were launched exclusively on “Colombia is so diverse,” she points out, mentioning the rich heritage
Moda Operandi. “It was a true fashion fairytale,” says Santo Domingo. and various ethnic groups that in turn have produced designers as
One may be unfamiliar with the name Johanna Ortiz, but her varied as Mercedes Salazar, known for her bold, brightly coloured
distinctive silhouettes could not have passed you by. Extravagantly earrings, to Haider Ackermann.
ruffled skirts and dresses, chic prints and sultry off-shoulder necklines Beyond the fanciful creations of Ortiz is her support of the local
have become the go-to get-up for the hostess, the party girl and everyone Colombian community. Her pieces are all made in her country, where
else in between. They are one part salsa – Cali, Ortiz’s hometown, is she oversees a staff of 250 in her headquarters, two retail stores
fittingly Colombia’s salsa capital – and one part gala gown. She designs and atelier. Additionally, Ortiz has founded Semillero, a foundation
for herself, not an idealised concept of a woman, which is not necessarily that teaches high-end sewing techniques to local women from →
58
Johanna Ortiz (second from
left) with models wearing
pieces from her autumn/
winter ’17/’18 collection.
DECEMBER 2017 59
VOGUE V IEW POINT
“I was trying
to figure out
how to use
different
colour. This
collection is
about the
woman who
is from out
of time, who
wants to
feel relaxed”
Ruffled velvet tops with denim swimwear and shoe collaborations with
from Johanna Ortiz’s autumn/ Tabitha Simmons and Aquazzura, designed
winter ’17/’18 collection.
by fellow Colombian Edgardo Osorio. →
60 DECEMBER 2017
VOGUE V IEW POINT
62 DECEMBER 2017
VOGUE V IEW POINT
SNAPSHOT
Night shift
ST YLING K ATE DARVI LL
PHOTOG R APH J U STI N R I D LER
A
whirl of feathers, a sweep of crystals
– in hand and on your dress. Bracelets
clanging against each other on your
wrist, carved statement heels. (And
that chunkier heel shape? All the better to
dance all night, we say.) Oscar Wilde’s
commonly heard adage about the benefits of
M O D E L S : L I LY H U TC H I N S O N O L I V I A WA L K E R K Y L E N E O P R I N S E N
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
DECEMBER 2017 65
VOGUE V IEW POINT
NEED IT NOW
CROWN
JEWELS
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
This cacophony of pieced-
together crystals from
Burberry plays a dual role
in your jewellery box:
evening grandeur or
WORDS: ZAR A WONG
66 DECEMBER 2017
VOGUE V IEW POINT
M
uch is made of the myth behind Karl Lagerfeld. Is his liquid
intake exclusively Diet Coke? What is his true date of birth?
How does he manage to design countless collections a year
– clocking in eight at Chanel alone, before you even consider Fendi and
his eponymous line?
Without understating his unique ability and talent, the answer to the
last question is simple: Virginie Viard. In her role as creative studio
director, Viard is what Lagerfeld charmingly calls his “right and his left
hand”. More than just a colleague, she has been a close confidant and
friend since her start in the Chanel studio as an intern in 1987.
Although it’s Lagerfeld in the spotlight, the duo work together side by
side, literally, behind a shared nondescript white desk in the Chanel
studio on the third floor above the famed rue Cambon boutique. This is
where Coco Chanel once presided and her apartment remains intact on
the floor below. A long rectangular room, the studio is lined with large
windows and is flooded with natural light for most of the day; the sun
dances across the floor in the morning, giving a feeling of warmth. It’s
quiet in here now, as this is solely Viard’s domain until Karl arrives
around 5pm – around the same time the teams in the ateliers knock off
– to begin his day’s work. “This is why we can do so many collections,
because we fit two days into one,” Viard says with a laugh.
You can pick that Viard is a Chanel woman from 15 metres away. She
has a shaggy brunette mane and bangs and the aura of having an innate
understanding of style, without any whiff of fashion victimhood. Today
she’s wearing velour pants tucked into pointy boots and a hot pink
‘Gabrielle Chanel’ sweater from the autumn/winter ’17/’18 collection. The
look is as audacious as it is irreverent, in that way Chanel does so well.
As a conversationalist, Viard is engaging and relaxed, not to mention
modest to the point of disbelief. “I don’t do so much,” she says, despite
admitting that in addition to cramming two days into one, she oversees
the eight collections a year, along with all of the casting and campaigns.
Explaining what she looks for in casting a Chanel woman, she could
well be describing herself. “It’s not about the physical, although they are
more brunette than blonde. It’s more about personality, education,
a certain energy.”
Viard recruited a band of such women to promote the new Chanel
watch, the Code Coco, a narrow timepiece that resembles an elegant
cuff. The design takes its cue from Chanel’s cult 2.55 bag: its band is
quilted and the bag’s clasp appears on the face of the watch in miniature
version. Nine Chanel muses – the likes of Alice Dellal, Anna Mouglalis
and Stella Tennant – along with Chanel staffers, including the global
creative designer for make-up and colour, Lucia Pica, feature in the look
IN PROFILE
book, posing like a coven of chic Parisian women. In a first, Viard found
herself in front of the camera as well, a muse and mascot for the new
Through the accessory. Although she’s rarely involved in the watches side of the
business, she never fails to be seduced by the idea of reworking the
looking glass
Chanel codes set so long ago by Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel. “When I work,
I have two people in mind: Karl and Coco,” she says emphatically,
adding: “Two very different people, but both so inspiring.”
Viard grew up in Lyon, where her grandparents had established
The very cool Virginie Viard themselves in the fabric business. “I didn’t really know what I wanted to
– Karl Lagerfeld’s creative do, but I knew it was fashion, because I always loved clothes. A lot of
collaborator at Chanel women in my family loved fashion,” she says. When she was in her early
and the face of the house’s 20s, a family acquaintance who knew Lagerfeld well promised to make
new watch, Code Coco – an introduction. The meeting went well and she was hired by Chanel
discusses her career and the as an intern. “It was a much smaller team then, but we were in this same
essence of a Chanel woman studio,” she says, gesturing about. “When I started, I worked closely
with Alice Cavanagh. with jewellery designer Victoria de Castellane. Gilles Dufour was the
68
head of the studio and he didn’t like visiting the embroidery, so I worked
closely then with the embroidery houses of Lesage and Montex.”
A close connection with Lagerfeld was forged early on, Viard says.
“Karl is very nice, and if he has a good feeling about you, then it’s easy. In
many ways, Chanel is like a family, but then,” she shrugs, “I don’t know
another way.” She followed Karl to Chloé for his second tenure at the
ready-to-wear house in the early 1990s and remained there as the head of
the studio, simultaneously juggling a career on the side as a costume
designer for film. Most famously, she worked on Krzysztof Kieślowski’s “Doing
films Bleu and Blanc (from the Three Colours trilogy) at the behest of Bleu
star Juliette Binoche. “Doing costumes for a film was more difficult than
costumes for a
a collection: models are easier than actresses, fashion is cooler than film, film was more
and Karl is easier than a director,” she says of her former side gig. difficult than
As if on queue, the shill ring of the landline sounds and she gestures to
it apologetically. “It’s Karl … allo,” she answers in a singsong voice. “Oui,
a collection:
everything is grand, I’m just doing an interview … No, don’t leave me!” models are
she pleads with him jokingly, before they hang up. I remark that there’s no easier than
ceremony or formality when he calls. “With Karl nothing is private or actresses,
difficult; there is no secretary or anything,” she shrugs. When he arrives
later today, they will review the looks for the spring/summer ’18 collection fashion is
on the models. It might be said that they are two halves of one brain: cooler than
the showman couturier and his faithful partner. “The best part of the job
is the fittings. When we see the collection on the models and I am thinking
film, and Karl
about how to improve something,” she says of their working dynamic, is easier than
“then Karl will give me something that makes it all click into place.” ■ a director”
DECEMBER 2017 69
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VOGUE V IEW POINT
STYLE SYLLABUS
Colour
chameleon
Actress, model, scriptwriter … Sarah Ellen
shape-shifts in party-ready prints that are far
from your grandma’s wallpaper. By Alice Birrell.
ST YLING PE T TA CH UA
PHOTOG R APHS D U N CAN KI LLI CK
74
I
had done yoga the night before and was just stretching on set and
we said: ‘Yes! Let’s do that!’” the very petite Sarah Ellen is saying
over juice in Sydney’s Paddington during a freak rainy spell of her
Vogue shoot. “The clothes were all ready and we were messing around
with the set and it was ‘Yoga with Sarah Ellen’,” she says after she
slipped into a standing tree pose in Gucci heels. The result, though, is an
impossible version of chic yoga in a luxury harem, perhaps on a rooftop
at sunset in a languid lean that recalls that Talitha Getty photo. Switch
the activewear for the aforementioned brand’s foulard Palazzo pants in
psychedelic paisley and it’s a character she can slip into easily.
“When I’m working at events like fashion week or photo shoots, I like
to be very colourful,” says the 19-year-old actress, model and polymath
whose pursuits seem to stretch further than just the ‘influencer’ label.
Limbering up for a night out in the season’s best prints is part of the
deal for someone who travels the world collaborating with brands like
Tiffany & Co. and Saint Laurent, shooting video and photos for her
website Perks of Her, which she’s just relaunched, and for a fledgling
acting career that has taken her from the cast of Neighbours to LA.
Being well versed in switching characters made her see the act of
putting on clothes differently. “People have a certain style and a certain
aesthetic and they can stick to that. I’m not that person,” she says simply.
“I like a variety of different clothes. I love vintage … and then at the
same time I love sneakers and I love wearing heels. I love wearing
thigh-high boots.”
With a neat chocolate crop that she dyed from ice blonde earlier this
year, Ellen has buoyancy befitting her youth and an optimism that
catches on. Her skin has that teenage glow; after all, she is one, though
barely. She has the unnerving birth year of 1998, given she works so Above: Ellery dress, $1,095, pants, $895, and boots, $1,200. Cartier hoop earrings,
$9,800, earring, $42,200 for a pair, and rings, $3,200 and $5,600. Below: Emma
much, and will turn 20 next January. Mulholland shirt, $160, and pants, $250. Karen Walker hat, $275. Paloma Picasso
The calibre of names both in beauty and fashion vying to work with for Tiffany & Co. earrings, $745. Double Rainbouu bag, $170. Gucci shoes, $955.
her – she recently returned from London with Tommy Hilfiger – means
being able to explore new ways with well-traversed dress codes is a job
requirement. It’s how she built a social media following of nearly
a million and how she tackles wallpaper prints for evening. “I like to
take risks with patterns and different materials, especially when it
comes to editorials that I create,” she says.
The alternatives to glitzed eveningwear offered by designers on
runways of late is, as Ellen puts it, the “not so cliche” way to do party
dressing this time around. The varietals for resort filtered in through
a nostalgic lens beginning in the vicinity of Ossie Clark and Biba, from
Ellery’s 70s-tinged rust-and-yolk florals, Japanese paper-via-De
Gournay florals at Diane von
Furstenberg and the good-times
vibes of Hawaiian patterns at
“People have a
Miu Miu and Stella McCartney. certain style and
It is decadence and decorative they stick to
with more than a pinch of the
past; a look that wouldn’t be out
that. I’m not that
of place on a Wes Anderson set, person. I like
a creative with a particularly a variety of
strong pull for Ellen. different clothes.
“Wes Anderson is a genius!”
she exclaims when we get on to I love vintage …
the subject of film. “Growing up and then at the
watching films was definitely a
huge part of my life,” she says,
same time I love
remembering her stepfather sneakers and
stopping off at the DVD → wearing heels”
DECEMBER 2017 75
VOGUE V IEW POINT
“The moment
the sun goes
down, I can
stay up till
the late hours
just writing
or reading
or editing”
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
76 DECEMBER 2017
VOGUE V IEW POINT
FINE PRINT
Chloé top,
$1,695, from
Parlour X.
Dolce &
Gabbana
boots,
$3,250.
store to pick out films with her that ranged from classics to Westerns and Tarantino to Woody
Allen. Recently, the coming-of-age Luca Guadagnino-directed Call Me By Your Name, with a
soundtrack by Sufjan Stevens, caught her interest, as have short films, while she works on
P H OTO G R A P H S : D U N C A N K I L L I C K H A I R : S O P H I E R O B E RT S M A K E- U P: CO L E T T E
a 15-minute piece she’s written. “I have this new-found love of writing.”
Fittingly, it is late at night – the time when partywear gets its workout – that she finds most
M I L L E R A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
potent creatively. “Throughout the day I can sit in front of my laptop and try to write something
for six hours and come up with two sentences. The moment the sun goes down [though] … I can Hermès scarf, $690.
stay up till the late hours just writing or reading or editing.”
Growing up in Sydney’s west, Ellen would tape her own mini movies, writing them and editing
the music with friends. She left school at 16, with the support of her parents, to pursue fashion
and later moved into acting. When Neighbours offered her a three-year role playing Kylie
Minogue’s iconic soap character Charlene Robinson’s daughter, Madison, she initially turned
them down, not wanting to be tied up for so long. “Six months later, they reached out again,” she
says, offering her the chance to write for her own part and dictate the time frame. She accepted,
with Minogue later congratulating her on Twitter after they met. “She’s so lovely,” says Ellen.
She’s leaving room now to move, with New York an option to be closer to LA, where she’ll no
doubt be making even more space in her wardrobe for party and red-carpet attire. “People in
Australia don’t really dress up,” she says, looking forward to more statement outfits. “I’m just
excited to be whatever character I want to be.” ■ Bally top, $895.
78 DECEMBER 2017
“Ok Google, play my ‘Getting Ready’ playlist.”
$ 79
Requires Wi-Fi, Google Account, and compatible device. Additional subscription(s) and fees may be required.
VOGUE V IEW POINT
Salvatore Ferragamo
shoes, $1,150.
NEED IT NOW
PICK OF
THE BUNCH
Ferragamo’s inspired
choice in new creative
director Paul Andrew sees
his rich ideas blossom,
from the feet up.
ART DIREC TION D IJANA SAVO R
ST YLING B E TH I E G I R MAI
PHOTOG R APH EDWAR D U R RUTIA
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
WORDS: ALICE BIRRELL
80 DECEMBER 2017
VOGUE V IEW POINT
Identity check
Burberry’s all-inclusive vision for its September
2017 collection beams out a message of optimism
as it prepares for a new chapter. By Alice Birrell.
E
vening time slots during fashion week are the
industry’s equivalent of the headline music act
taking to the stage. Reserved for top-billing names,
the operation is sleek: the luxury cars line up and deposit
their VIP occupants, the street-style photographers capture
the well-shod attendees, the lights go up and the collection
is paraded down a glossy runway complete with its own
guardians to prevent a dreaded stray shoe from marking it
before the models have their moment.
On the evening of the Burberry show in Clerkenwell at
London fashion week, things aren’t rolling in this usually
grand direction. There’s no row of black cars or street-style
photographers as showgoers stagger their entrance past
a crowd of protestors from an animal welfare group. Inside
Old Sessions House, a former courthouse, editors, VIPs and
a celebrity-front-row contingent that includes Kate Moss,
Naomi Campbell and Cara Delevingne shuffle onto
a hodgepodge of garden benches, old-school seats, and
carved wooden dining chairs. Paint peels from the walls
under a vast central coffered dome as the fashion show kicks
off. Welcome to a luxury brand in 2017. Some of it is
unplanned, some of it is planned to look unplanned, and the
effect is a mash-up of disparate elements and the message:
Burberry is striking out of its polished comfort zone.
Nearly eight weeks later, there are more surprises. The
news is announced, as this issue is going to press, that
chief creative officer Christopher Bailey is leaving the
label, his last collection to be presented in February and he
will step down from the board in March 2018. What to
make, then, of this collection that has done away with the
crisp trenches, clear-eyed views of English garden floral
prints, ultra-refined tea dresses that Bailey has installed in
his 17 years as creative head?
Windbreakers and Harrington jackets on boys and girls
were worn with baseball caps. Picnic-blanket tartan
ponchos and oversized outerwear appeared as boxier
versions of the iconic trench. Then appeared markers of
British aristocracy, though these were all done with more
humour than usual; grandma’s chandelier earrings and
brooches, with the too-big look that comes when you snuck
into her jewellery box (pleasingly for all, and for the
protestors outside, the fur coats were all faux). Mouliné
grandpa cardigans and Fair Isle knits with extra-long
sleeves, and hand-crocheted vests took us to the icier
elements of the northernmost British Isles. “It is a little bit
of an eclectic mix of everything that I love about Britishness.
It’s the highs, the lows, opulence, the working class, the
different sides of ceremonies, and pomp and traditions and
fashion and clothes through the ages,” surmised
Christopher Bailey of the show.
A new CEO was installed at the label in July this year.
Backstage at Burberry’s September 2017 collection in London. Coming from Céline, a house he is credited, along with →
82 DECEMBER 2017
VOGUE V IEW POINT
84 DECEMBER 2017
TIE THE KNOT WITH THE PERFECT
CUSTOM DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT
RING FROM GREGORY JEWELLERS
S Y D N E Y | M E L B O U R N E | 13 0 0 7 0 0 9 5 0 | G R E G O R YJ E W E L L E R S . C O M . A U
VOGUE V IEW POINT
left as it was. The collection showed Britishness as a multi-faceted, richly In 2004 they discontinued the Burberry check cap – a favourite of the
composed identity with humanness the unifying theme. aforementioned groups – and stripped the pattern from all but less than
The timing couldn’t be better. Today, repetition of heritage elements five per cent of product. The BBC labelled the process ‘Burberry vs the
alone don’t chime as authentically as they once did. A strong message is Chavs’. As the second outing, after a collaboration with cult Russian
crucial in a period when retail is slowing, something Burberry isn’t designer Gosha Rubchinskiy earlier this year, it also reads as a display
immune to, although the house has always met challenges head on. Last of fondness and acceptance of the past.
year it introduced ‘see-now-buy-now’ – which means all runway pieces By foregrounding a spirit or attitude, the label aims to reflect everyday
are available now in store globally and in Australia, where its largest scenarios: a check bag kicked under the chair at a pub, a wet trench
store recently opened in Melbourne – something they believe will work bundled onto a coat hook after a downpour. Today, Burberry – a brand
after they move through expected teething problems, and they’ve steeped in the past – is finding relevance in the real world. “I think it’s
looked to engage millennials via live streaming of fashion shows and crucial to remain curious about the world, to remain open to new ideas,
projects with Apple. and to make sure you’re part of things that are happening around you,”
This most current play was an honest and direct says Bailey of the attitude that underpinned the collection.
approach to relevance in a mercurial fashion landscape. “The audience is evolving at an incredible pace.”
The Burberry check appeared in this collection the most
prolifically that it has in almost 10 years, a fully fledged
“IT’S CRUCIAL As the show comes to an end, Delevingne alternately
taps her feet to the music, woops as model friend Adwoa
return. Head-to-toe on trenches, shirts and smothering TO REMAIN Aboah walks by and stands to applaud Bailey, taking his
raincoats, the pattern is being called ‘vintage’ and taps OPEN TO NEW bow on the balcony. Lining the walls and sitting on the
fashion’s current ironic use of designer logos and a
nostalgia for 90s streetwear. It’s also Burberry-branded
IDEAS … AS THE jumble of charmingly worn-in chairs, the crowd joins
her applauding all the women and men of Burberry who
self-deprecation. After the check was donned by football AUDIENCE IS passed us by, hopefully seeing more of ourselves than
hooligans and troublemakers in the late 90s and early EVOLVING” ever before in the faces on the runway and a way forward
00s, the label strove to distance itself from the pattern. that could look good on everyone. ■
86 DECEMBER 2017
VOGUE V IEW POINT
TA K E N OT E
PLAY IT
BY EAR
The new breed of
cocktail earrings have
a mesmerising effect
as they swing like
baubles back and forth,
catching the light.
H A I R : S O P H I E R O B E RT S M A K E- U P: CO L E T T E M I L L E R M O D E L : R A E R O D R I G U E Z
By Alice Birrell.
ST YLING PE T TA CH UA
PHOTOG R APHS D U N CAN KI LLI CK
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
HANG ABOUT
Farewell demure party
jewels and instead start
experimenting. Laden ear
lobes with a double dressing
using Bulgari’s dripping-in-
diamonds earrings as the
decadent building block.
Isabel Marant top, $3,595, from
Parlour X. Bulgari earring, $26,500.
Lele Sadoughi flower earrings, $259,
from Pierre Winter.
88
THE DROP
Subtle? Forget you know the
word when it comes to dressing
up. Channel a Christmas spirit by
hooking on a chandelier earring,
as pretty as hanging tinsel.
Left: Chanel jacket, $7,750, from
the Chanel boutiques. Aje dress,
$1,600. Ellery earrings, P.O.A.
Right: Burberry jacket, $2,595,
dress, $4,095, and earring, $1,395.
DECEMBER 2017 89
VOGUE V IEW POINT
A
SINGULAR STYLE nyone given the task of profiling
musician, burgeoning filmmaker
(with an adaptation of The Picture of
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
S H OT O N LO C AT I O N AT T H E O L D C L A R E H OT E L , S Y D N E Y
H A I R : D I A N E G O R G I E S K I M A K E- U P: P E T E R B E A R D
Annie Clark, a.k.a. St. Vincent, with the sleek guitar she designed to suit a woman’s body.
Above: Givenchy jacket, $3,500. Daisy jumpsuit, $480. Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. ring,
$43,000. Prada shoes, $1,710. Right: Saint Laurent dress, $30,645. Giorgio Armani top, $3,400.
90 DECEMBER 2017
NEW SEASON
ESSENTIALS
VOGUE V IEW POINT
Pages from
Fashion
Together,
a new book
exploring
influential
creative
Like minds
Super-stylist Katie Grand and Marc Jacobs on
partnerships
in the
fashion
world.
working closely together for over a decade, first
at Louis Vuitton, then on his eponymous label.
I M A G E S : J A M I E H AW K E S W O RT H J A M I E M c C A RT H Y/G E T T Y I M A G E S
Le Bristol after, and we’d also always go. I remember, as time Why has your relationship with Marc has lasted so long? Is it the friendship?
I N T E R V I E W: LO U S TO P PA R D F L AT L AY S : G E O R G I N A E G A N
went on, sitting next to Marc chatting about fashion. Keith KG: “Actually, I think there’s a definite professional boundary between us, which is
Warren was head of menswear, and he asked me to work on sometimes crossed by how demanding he is. But it’s not like we go on holiday
M E RT A N D M A R C U S DAV I D S I M S DAV I D U R B A N K E
menswear. So that was how I ended up in the studio.” together – it’s not that kind of relationship. And I quite like that there is a bit of a
Marc, do you remember what you thought of Katie formality to it, which I think surprises people, given that he gives me so much credit.”
during those conversations? Marc, the fact that you credit Katie and your team so often runs counter to the way
MJ: “‘Energy’ would be the key word. That’s how I first fashion traditionally has utterly fetishised the star designer, the solo creative.
remember her; her laugh and everything like that.” MJ: “I’ve often said that anyone who pretends that exists is just lying. It takes so
Tell me how you came to work together at both Louis many people to do what we all do. There are the women who sew, the people who
Vuitton and Marc Jacobs. make the patterns, the people who cut the patterns, the people who sell, the PR, the
KG: “I started working on the Louis Vuitton ads as well – photographers, the models. Everyone plays a part, and when it works, it’s because
I was asked by Mert [Alas] and Marcus [Piggott]. But at that everyone’s brought something very special.”
point, Marc wasn’t there on the shoots. The first season This is an excerpt from Fashion Together by Lou Stoppard (Hardie Grant, $140).
92 DECEMBER 2017
Available from selected David Jones and Myer stores. For stockist enquiries contact (02) 9959 1014.
FOR HER
FRAGRANCE
THE FIRST
VOGUE V IEW POINT
JEWELLERY
Terms of
adornment
Cartier unveils its latest high jewellery
collection, one that the famed house
hopes will resonate for decades, if not
centuries, to come. By Zara Wong.
PHOTOG R APHS ER I C B O MAN
I
had caught wind of a particular Cartier bracelet made of multiple We are in the same store – nix that, mansion – that once exhibited the
miniature scales, each encrusted with brilliant-cut diamonds on one Taylor-Burton diamond of 69 carats. Thousands of people lined up to see
side and potent blue lapis lazuli on the other. It sounded like a the diamond, Arnaud Carrez, Cartier’s international marketing and
jewellery design from mythology – the scales could be flipped this way or communication director, tells me over a morning espresso. The diamond’s
that, alternating the colour of the bracelet. A diamond or a lapis lazuli day previous owner, Harriet Annenberg Ames, never felt comfortable wearing
– take your pick! Where could it be viewed? “Sold,” came the response it as a ring, and had put it up for auction: Cartier outbid Richard Burton at
from a Cartier representative in the Fifth Avenue, New York, store, and a record-breaking $1 million. Burton ended up buying the diamond from
never to be re-made. The combination of inventive design and the rarity of Cartier for Elizabeth Taylor, hence the name. Citing wearability – even
the stones ensured that exclusivity and uniqueness can indeed be bought. Taylor knew her limits – she had the diamond re-designed as a necklace
“Since the beginning of jewellery, women have needed different ways by Cartier. “It has so many carats, it’s almost a turnip,” Burton had
to wear it. Because the pieces are a representation of a bigger investment, commented on the diamond when he had finally acquired it.
you would like to have as many opportunities as possible to wear Fine jewellery, by virtue of practicalities, has always been about the
them,” explains Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s knowledgeable image, style long game. Patience in waiting for the right stone, and patience as
and heritage director, in one of the many private rooms of the Cartier significant pieces are passed from one owner to another through
mansion in New York, where the Cartier team is unveiling the high inheritance or through private purchases as unofficial markers of
jewellery collection Résonances de Cartier. “And they are technically shifting fortunes. Jacqueline Karachi, creative director of Cartier’s high
difficult and, of course, there is the cost.” Because even with sky-high jewellery, shows me sketches of the designs for Résonances, which has
jewellery budgets (the kind that are whispered rather than writ), been in the works for two years. Longer, if you include the time it takes
wearability remains the utmost matter of interest. to collect landmark stones from around the world (Rainero and →
94
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
Opposite: Résonances de
Cartier Chandigarh white
gold necklace set with
rubies, emeralds and
diamonds, P.O.A. This page:
Cartier Panthère Blotie
white gold ring/brooch set
CREDIT
DECEMBER 2017 95
VOGUE V IEW POINT
DECEMBER 2017 97
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VOGUE CU LTU R E
A brush
Sydney Harbour, home to the couple and their daughter, Arkie, from 1969,
and the subject matter for which he was best known.
Wendy quietly surveyed the painting and saw the hallmarks of her
Big Blue Lavender
Bay, called into court
during the trial.
Far from the sparkle of Sydney harbour, in the gritty, industrial back alleging that the paintings were the
blocks of inner Melbourne, someone else was keeping quiet about a
Mouths handiwork of Siddique, created from 2007
disturbing scene. Jud Wimhurst was a likeable, easy-going artist with a dropped to 2009. The defence, however, argued
musketeer-like goatee and a skateboarding past. Three days a week he open when that Siddique had only been creating
made frames, stretched canvases, varnished paintings and built plinths ‘copies’ in his storeroom, never intending
for Melbourne art restorer Mohamed Aman Siddique, whose clients
Wendy them to be sold as the real thing – it is
included the rich and powerful. Victorian Art Conservation was housed Whiteley not a crime to copy an artist’s work.
in a double-storey, red brick warehouse in Easey Street, Collingwood. walked into Mouths dropped open when Wendy
Wimhurst had worked here for just on two years. On a dull winter’s Whiteley walked into court to give
morning in 2007, after unlocking the fortress-like red front door and
court to give evidence. In her 70s, she remained the
heading upstairs to check the answering machine, he noticed that an off- evidence. In essence of bohemian grandeur. Head
limits storeroom had its doors open. Wimhurst had never seen the her 70s, she wrapped in a swathe of printed black and
storeroom open and had often wondered what Siddique kept in there. white fabric, she wore a long black dress,
What he saw would shatter his faith in the business: a series of unfinished
remained black pearls, chunky bangles, and a grey
paintings, unmistakably in the style of Brett Whiteley, all of them brightly the essence plaid shawl draped over her right
coloured scenes of Sydney Harbour. Whiteley had died in 1992, alone in a of bohemian shoulder. She stood in the witness box
motel room, claimed by a lethal mix of drugs and alcohol, but in and swore that the two paintings in court,
Siddique’s Collingwood studio, it seemed he was being resurrected.
grandeur and the painting that had gone missing,
Stunned by his find, Wimhurst quickly returned downstairs before his were fake. Two art experts from the
boss arrived. Later that day, after Siddique had turned up, Wimhurst University of Melbourne, Robyn Sloggett and Vanessa Kowalski, also
went back upstairs and saw that the storeroom was locked once more. testified that the paintings could not be attributed to Whiteley.
Wimhurst was so troubled by his find that soon after he quit the But the defence slashed away at the prosecution evidence, tearing into
business. He confided in only one person, his colleague Guy Morel, a the methodology of Sloggett and Kowalski, casting doubt on the
paper conservator and bookbinder who also worked at the studio and credibility and motives of the whistleblower Guy Morel, and dragging up
who promised to “keep an eye on things”. Morel was true to his word. the dissolute elements of Wendy’s life with Brett. The couple were heroin
The storeroom’s 2.5-metre-high walls did not reach to the top of the addicts, and in the throes of a volatile separation and no longer living
warehouse ceiling. So Morel placed a chair on the workbench next to the together in 1988. The defence argued that Wendy could not possibly
locked storeroom and, digital camera in hand, climbed on to the chair, know everything the artist had created in 1988. Two witnesses were
hung his camera over the edge of the storeroom walls and snapped particularly damaging to the prosecution case: both swore that they had
away. From late 2007 he secretly photographed the paintings evolving seen the suspect paintings in 1988 and in 1989. A yoga teacher, Rosemary
in Siddique’s storeroom. In 2010, Morel handed a CD filled with these Milburn, who had once worked as Gant’s gallery assistant, identified her
photographs to Victoria Police, triggering the most controversial case of signature on an invoice book listing the three paintings and their arrival
alleged art fraud to be heard in the Australian criminal courts. at the gallery on June 28, 1988. And car salesman Jeremy James swore
In April 2016, the disparate worlds of Sydney and Melbourne, and the that he had photographed the orange and blue paintings in 1989 to
arts and the law, collided in a complex and fraught five-week trial at illustrate the works in an exhibition catalogue for Gant.
the Supreme Court of Victoria. Silence was no longer an option, at least not The trial judge, Justice Michael Croucher, declared that the evidence
for the 25 witnesses who were called to give evidence, among them an of Milburn and James demolished the Crown’s case. After narrowly
eccentric parade of art world figures. But the jury would never hear from deciding not to throw the case out, the judge took the extraordinary
the accused. Siddique and his associate Peter Gant, a Melbourne art dealer step of inviting the jury to acquit the men at the end of the prosecution’s
who had previously come before the courts for handling fakes, exercised evidence. The jury rejected the invitation.
their right to remain silent. In 2010 Gant was found in breach of the Fair On May 12, 2016, in defiance of the judge, the jury found Gant and
Trading Act for selling three fake drawings. That was a civil dispute. Siddique guilty on two counts each of obtaining financial advantage by
Now Gant was facing the possibility of jail, accused of being the salesman deception and one count each of attempted obtaining financial advantage
in a joint criminal enterprise with Siddique, the alleged forger. by deception. Gant was sentenced to five years in jail, Siddique to three,
At the centre of the alleged art fraud were three suspect paintings, each but their sentences were postponed pending an appeal as Justice
of them views of Lavender Bay, that had been sold or offered for sale for Croucher argued that the jury verdict was “unsafe”. A year later, Gant
millions to Sydney buyers as authentic Whiteley works. The huge blue and Siddique were sensationally acquitted by the appeal bench. The
painting that Wendy had seen at Pridham’s stately home was hauled into appeal judges described the case as a “rare and almost unique instance of
court as a major exhibit. So too was another painting, titled Orange the system having failed”. But they left unanswered the biggest question
Lavender Bay, that had been sold for $1.1 million by Melbourne art dealer of all. They made no finding on the authenticity of the paintings, saying
John Playfoot to Sydney luxury car dealer Steven Nasteski. A third they were not equipped to do so. The art world did not accept that the
suspect painting, titled Lavender Bay through the Window, given to three suspect paintings were by Whiteley. It had counted on the law to
Melbourne cafe owner Guy Angwin as surety on a $950,000 loan, had resolve the matter, but the law had raised more questions than it had
mysteriously disappeared and police had not been able to recover it. The answered. The truth remained elusive.
three paintings all led back to Gant, who had presented them to Archer Gabriella Coslovich is the author of Whiteley on Trial (MUP, $32.99;
and Playfoot as legitimate Whiteleys from 1988. The prosecution was e-book $14.99). Out now.
104 DECEMBER 2 0 1 7
contemporary japanese cuisine
a true chapter book. The first chapter would be the darkness and it would take
Well versed readers through the experience of an unhealthy love and what that makes a person
feel, and how that defines their lens and how they navigate the world. Then the
second chapter would be the light chapter and it was going to talk about a healthy
Poet Rupi Kaur talks The Sun and Her Flowers
and handling social media. By Ella Cerón. relationship and what that is like.
C
“What I really wanted to focus on was that corrective experience that happens.
hances are you’ve seen Rupi Kaur’s poetry, either I think we’re like: ‘Oh, in unhealthy relationships, people are really sad, and then
from Kaur herself or a fan’s regram of her work. Of somebody great comes along and it’s all like, butterflies and rainbows.’ But it doesn’t
course, even without fans reposting her work to really work like that. When you experience violence for so long, when something
P O RT R A I T P H OTO G R A P H : N A B I L S H A S H S T Y L I S T: C H R I S T I A N C L A S S E N
their own feeds, Kaur’s reach is considerable on its own. comes to you and it’s not violent, you don’t know how to define that …
The writer, who self-published her first poetry book, Milk “But all these other themes kind of just wouldn’t stop coming to me. I was writing
and Honey, in 2014, has more than 1.7 million followers on about death and I was writing about immigration and I was like: ‘No, no, no, I don’t
I M A G E S CO U RT E S Y O F S I M O N & S C H U S T E R A U S T R A L I A
Instagram and thousands more on Facebook and Twitter. need to be writing about this stuff. I have the concept of what my book is going to be.’
And her work, which is characterised by short, Eventually, at the end of last year, I just stopped fighting that and I was like: ‘I’m just
punctuation-less phrases and sparse drawings, inspires going to write what comes.’”
comments from the second she posts a new poem. How do you navigate social media response to your work?
Now she has a new book out, The Sun and Her Flowers, RK: “I think as my readership grows online, more and more, I protect myself and what
which features five new chapters of poems on loss, love, I read more and more. And I did that earlier on because I had the fear that if I read too
loneliness and identity. Here, we talk to the writer and many comments and this and that, it might actually change what I wrote about. I didn’t
profile some of the poems from her latest book. want 500 comments under a poem telling me to write about this topic more to suddenly
Where did you find the inspiration for these poems, and change my vision. But also, with a lot of positivity, there’s going to be negativity. And
for the five-segment format? I don’t have to wallow in that. My job is to focus on the work and the art.”
RK: “Three years ago, I thought the book was going to be The Sun and Her Flowers by Rupi Kaur (Simon & Schuster, $24.99) is out now.
ART
Strokes I
t’s high summer in Amsterdam and the canal-lined city is enjoying a brief heatwave. Tourists
flock to canal cruises, shedding their clothes as they go; locals throw open the doors of their
street-front houses, ushering in the sweet scented breeze and the curious gaze of passers-by;
of genius while locals and tourists alike stay out well past any hour resembling bedtime, indulging in the
bright twilight that seems to stretch on endlessly. Yet what appears to be just another European
city decadently kicking up its heels is actually much more.
The Dutch Golden Age of the It is there in the single peony I am given on arrival at the Sofitel Legend The Grand, rich with
17th century produced some of layered pink tones, while an accompanying note detailing the inspiration flowers gave artists of the
the world’s most beloved Dutch Golden Age invites me to seek out the very peony Jan Davidsz. de Heem used in Still Life with
masterpieces. Jane Albert Flowers in a Glass Vase, his prized late-1660s painting in the nearby Rijksmuseum. It’s there in the
visits their birthplace. miniature works of art hotel guests receive daily in their bedrooms, an homage to some of the great
Dutch painters rendered, astonishingly, in confectionery. One day it’s Johannes Vermeer’s Girl with a
Pearl Earring, a single edible ‘pearl’ created by pastry chef Martin Baux with an iridescent edible
glaze and gold leaf detail; the next it’s Vincent van Gogh’s Bulb Fields, rows and rows of delicately
cut and coloured sugar-dusted jubes personifying the artist’s meticulously rendered tulip beds.
Even the taxi drivers are eager to share the latest news of Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn. The
undisputed master of the Golden Age may have been dead more than three centuries, but two of his
greatest portraits have been making headlines internationally upon word that his portraits of Marten
Self-portrait as the Apostle Paul (1661) Soolmans and Oopjen Coppit would soon be returning to the public for the first time in a century.
by Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn.
Opposite: Still life with Golden Goblet Here is a nation with a deep pride in its artists. And now for the first time a number of treasures
(1650–60) by Pieter de Ring. from these artists the Dutch hold so dear will travel to the Art Gallery of New South Wales →
108
I M A G E S CO U RT E S Y O F R I J K S M U S E U M
(AGNSW) for Rembrandt and the Dutch Golden Age: Masterpieces from the Golden Age had created a large new middle class determined to show off
Rijksmuseum, 78 artworks from Rembrandt to Vermeer, Jan Steen, Frans their affluence and sophistication by buying and commissioning art to
Hals and Jacob van Ruisdael. decorate their canal-side mansions. By the early 1600s the Netherlands
While Dutch art is often associated with the arresting works of post- was enjoying a thriving artistic climate unlike any other in Europe.
Impressionist painter van Gogh, the group of artists associated with the “One of the most important characteristics of this country in the 17th
Golden Age brought alive one of the most dynamic periods in the century is it wasn’t the church or noble courts that was the main
Netherland’s history. It was a time of unprecedented wealth and commissioner to the arts, it was the well-to-do middle class,” says the
cultural richness that followed the northern Dutch regions of the Rijksmuseum’s curator of 17th-century Dutch painting, Pieter Roelofs,
I M A G E S CO U RT E S Y O F R I J K S M U S E U M
Netherlands gaining independence from Spain in 1648, finding who is co-curating the Sydney exhibition with AGNSW curator Peter
considerable religious and political freedom as they did. Economic Raissis. “Around 1.5 million people commissioned between six and 10
prosperity followed, with international trade capitalising on the million paintings, which is huge. Some owned over 300 paintings in one
region’s strategic coastal position to venture outside the traditional single house. It became a very visual culture.”
European trade routes to the spice routes of Asia and beyond. Such was the demand for art and so prolific the output that artists
This expansion and knowledge had a profound effect on the art world. began specialising: in portraiture commissioned for the first time by
Not only did it provide rich new subjects to explore, from maritime regular people, not the church or nobility; in still lifes and landscape;
adventures to cartography and mysterious goods from faraway lands; this and then perfecting genres within that specialisation – Melchior →
d’Hondecoeter became an expert in painting birdlife; Ruisdael was the father of her unborn child, although her seemingly pregnant form is
known for his skies; Steen for his domestic scenes. also contested. “This painting makes clear how important light was to
“Everything was worth depicting; they began to focus on everyday Vermeer, the light and colour change from the left hand side to the right;
life, and realism was the main goal,” Roelofs says. “That was whereas Rembrandt was more about rough, broad strokes, a swift way of
unprecedented and it wasn’t understood by other nations. The Italians painting. Vermeer was interested in detail,” says Roelofs. “What’s going
would laugh, saying: ‘This is not about religion, this is not about the on in the painting? It encourages us to think; that’s a nice aspect as well.”
high arts, it’s low art.’ Pop culture 1620! The idea Vermeer might make a Vermeer wasn’t the only artist to depict domestic scenes. Jan Steen
painting of a girl pouring milk into a bowl in a corner of a kitchen – was renowned for his storytelling and everyday scenes and rarely failed
what is that? It’s ridiculous; it’s not Diana or Zeus. They opened up a to throw in a moral or two warning burghers to behave.
new door to a completely different kind of art.” In contrast to the domestic paintings are the still lifes
The stars of the Golden Age are Rembrandt and of the Golden Age, painted to show off both the owner’s
Vermeer. Rembrandt became a versatile and prolific “THEY BEGAN knowledge of exotic goods such as pepper and salt and
painter; a famous and wealthy man during much of
TO FOCUS ON the artist’s skill in depicting them.
EVERYDAY LIFE
his life but who died destitute in 1669. Acclaimed for his It is astounding to think the Golden Age lasted a mere
portraiture, Rembrandt’s most highly regarded is 50 years yet resulted in millions of paintings, including
Self-portrait as the Apostle Paul (1661). “We only have two AND REALISM some of the great, enduring masterpieces of Western art,
Rembrandt self-portraits in the Rijksmuseum and this
WAS THE many of them calling Sydney home for the summer.
MAIN GOAL”
will be one of the spectacular paintings in the Rembrandt “From a practical point of view, bringing these paintings
room,” says Roelofs of the seven paintings and 16 to the other side of the world is quite a thing,” says
etchings that will be loaned to Sydney. Roelofs. Each painting has its own custom-built, climate-
Wander through Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum, the 1885 controlled crate; each is placed in a specific direction in
art gallery built as a cathedral to worship the arts, and it is obvious where the cargo; and the collection travels in separate consignments.
the blockbusters are. Simply follow the crowds standing before “There’s always a risk, but there are risks everywhere. And there’s
Rembrandt’s The Night Watch (1642), his self-portraits and Vermeer’s always the tension [of loaning them]. But if you don’t show them, they
evocative The Milkmaid (circa 1660) and Woman Reading a Letter (circa 1663). don’t exist. And the value is that you make people aware what it’s all
A breathtakingly still, quiet work, Woman Reading a Letter conveys none about. And this exhibition has the great Dutch masters of the 17th
of the chaos that must have dominated Vermeer’s home, where he worked century: Rembrandt and Vermeer and Hals and Steen and Ruisdael.
among his 11 surviving children although it does perhaps explain his They’re all there, all telling the same story: the story of the richness and
modest output: only 35 paintings in his young life’s work (he died in at 43 quality and wealth of Dutch art.”
in 1675). This diminutive painting draws in the viewer, and art specialists Rembrandt and the Dutch Golden Age: Masterpieces from the
have for centuries debated the contents of the letter that so engross its Rijksmuseum is on at the Art Gallery of New South Wales until February 18.
reader. Tragic news from abroad? The maritime trade may have been Jane Albert travelled to Amsterdam as a guest of Singapore Airlines, the official
lucrative but it carried a high risk of fatality at sea. Perhaps it is word from airline partner of the Sydney International Art Series exhibition.
I M A G E S CO U RT E S Y O F R I J K S M U S E U M
From left: Woman Reading a Letter (1663) by Johannes Vermeer; Still life with Flowers in a Glass Vase (1665–70) by Jan Davidsz. de Heem;
The Westernmost Bays of the South Aisle of the Mariakerk in Utrecht (circa 1640–55) by Pieter Saenredam.
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VOGUE GI FTS
1. 2.
We approached six influential women to inspire this year’s gift guide with their distinct personal styles and tips for the festive season.
4.
5.
3.
6. 7.
8.
9. 13.
12.
14.
10. 11.
GUIDE TO GIVING
A PERSON FEEL SPECIAL, 18.
APPRECIATED AND LOVED,
16.
WHETHER IT IS SPOILING THEM FOR
THE DAY WITH A FACIAL AND HAVING
A BEAUTIFUL LUNCH OR BUYING
THEM SOMETHING FUNNY THAT
ONLY THE TWO OF YOU UNDERSTAND.
I ALSO THINK IT’S IMPORTANT TO
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12. Apple Watch Series 3, from $459. 13. Sony WH-1000XM2 wireless noise-cancelling headphones, $500. 14. Prada Candy Gloss EDP, 80ml for
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4.
2. 3. EXTROVERTED ELEGANCE
INSPIRED BY: GIOVANNA BATTAGLIA
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7.
8. 10.
11.
9.
12.
17.
18.
15.
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
19.
20.
1. Christian Dior bag, $8,900. 2. Bollinger Rosé 2006, $180, from David Jones. 3. Jean Paul Gaultier Christmas Collector Classique EDT, $147, exclusive to David Jones. 4. Kenzo
GEORGINA EGAN
dress, $829, from Myer. 5. Areaware Liquid Body Flask, $85, from Until. 6. The Daily Edited personalised passport holder, $70. 7. Gio_Graphy by Giovanna Battaglia (Rizzoli, $75).
8. Versace Eros Pour Femme EDP, 100ml for $150. 9. Christian Roth sunglasses, $450. 10. Vera Wang Wedgwood Duchesse Encore flutes, $229 for a pair. 11. Gucci skirt, $1,045.
12. Swarovski earrings, $399. 13. Jimmy Choo shoes, $825. 14. Swarovski necklace, $1,190. 15. Moschino belt, $480, from Myer. 16. Ted Baker top, $109. 17. Apple iPhone 8 Plus,
from $1,229. 18. Tumi suitcase, $990. 19. Theorie Pure Professional Restoring Shampoo and Conditioner, $26 each. 20. Marco de Vincenzo shoes, $1,000, from www.stylebop.com.
2.
1.
3.
6.
7. 8.
10.
CLASSIC CHIC
INSPIRED BY: BIANCA SPENDER
9. “MY FAVOURITE THING ABOUT
CHRISTMAS IS OPENING MY DOOR
TO PEOPLE. MY FAMILY HAVE THIS
TRADITION OF INVITING ANYONE
WHO DOES NOT HAVE FAMILY
OR FRIENDS IN SYDNEY TO OUR
PLACE FOR CHRISTMAS. HAVING
12. LIVED OVERSEAS FOR YEARS,
13.
I KNOW HOW MUCH IT MEANS
WHEN PEOPLE OPEN THEIR 14.
16.
17.
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
19.
18.
21.
20. 22.
1. Bondi Wash triple pack, $68. 2. Bianca Spender skirt, $525. 3. Matteau beach towel, $127. 4. Lumira candle, $65. 5. Mimco bag, $149. 6. Burberry shoes, $1,375. 7. Thomas
Sabo watch, $349. 8. Aerin Tuberose Le Jour EDP, 50ml for $295. 9. Nachtmann Curve vase, $200. 10. Moët & Chandon Impérial, $47, from Dan Murphy’s. 11. My Flower Man x
GEORGINA EGAN
Laura Goodall A2 prints, $360, from www.myflowerman.com.au. 12. Sonos PLAY:1 wireless speaker, $299. 13. Sephora Collection Color Hit Nail Polish in Girls Night Out, $11.
14. Estée Lauder Pure Color Sculpting Lipstick in Red Ego, $52. 15. Bolon Eyewear glasses, $210. 16. Bottega Veneta dress, $8,650. 17. Giorgio Armani bag, $3,550. 18. Aesop
Sun Care Body Duet, $73. 19. Karen Walker sunglasses, $329. 20. Dylan Kain belt, $160. 21. Sony Cybershot RX100 V compact camera, $1,699. 22. Elke jewellery stand, $265.
On stand, from left: Holly Ryan earrings, $220; Pandora earrings, $89; Reliquia earrings, $129; Pandora earrings, $79; Holly Ryan earrings, $480.
3.
1.
5.
2.
6.
7.
4.
STYLE AUTHORITY
INSPIRED BY: HOLLI ROGERS
9.
“CHRISTMAS IS ABOUT
DECORATING, PARTIES,
THE WARMTH OF GETTING 8.
TOGETHER WITH FAMILY AND
FRIENDS, SENDING OUT HOLIDAY
CARDS AND THE FUN OF
CHOOSING GIFTS. IT’S THE
11.
PERFECT OPPORTUNITY TO
PRESS PAUSE, RELAX AND
ENJOY THE FESTIVE BREAK
WITH FAMILY AND FRIENDS.” 10.
13.
@instagram.com/holli_rogers
@instagram.com/brownsfashion 12.
15.
14.
16.
17.
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
18.
19.
20.
1. Belvedere Bespoke personalised bottle, $350, from Moët Hennessy (02) 8344 9900. 2. Love Stories Intimates bralette, $80, and briefs, $40. 3. Jo Malone Christmas cracker
with cologne, body and hand wash, and body crème, $78. 4. Gucci socks, $224. 5. Balenciaga top, $3,049, from David Jones. 6. Lovisa earrings, $20. 7. Givenchy limited-edition
GEORGINA EGAN
Prisme Libre loose powder, $59. 8. Giorgio Armani Ecstasy Shine in 400 Four Hundred, $56. 9. Chanel bracelet, $990, from the Chanel boutiques. 10. Lautem bag, $1,190.
11. Dolce & Gabbana sunglasses, P.O.A. 12. Louis Vuitton travel guides, $44 each. 13. Dyson Supersonic hair dryer, $499. 14. Floral Christmas wreath, from $300, from My
Violet. 15. H&M jumper, $100. 16. Stuart Weitzman boots, $1,110. 17. Pandora rings, $99 each. 18. Pandora bangle, $69, and charms and spacers, from $59 each. 19. Pandora
bangle, $79, and charms and spacers, from $39 each. 20. Zoeva Matte Spectrum Eyeshadow Palette, $59.
4.
5.
6. 8. 9.
10.
11.
7.
12.
13.
14.
GLOBETROTTER
15.
INSPIRED BY:
SIBELLA COURT
“AS I HEAR STORIES AND
LONGINGS FOR SOMETHING I JOT
IT DOWN ON MY PRESENTS LIST
ON MY PHONE. I ENDEAVOUR TO
BUY GIFTS THAT ARE USEFUL,
THOUGHTFUL AND DESIRED. 16.
WHEN IT COMES TO NIECES, IT’S
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
WORKSHOPS AND EXPERIENCES.
I TAG MY HUSBAND ON INSTAGRAM
AND THEN PROMPTLY FORGET
ABOUT THE ITEMS, SO WHEN THEY
ARRIVE IT’S ALWAYS A SURPRISE!”
@instagram.com/sibellacourt
@instagram.com/thesocietyinc
GEORGINA EGAN
1. Céline blanket scarf, $1,650. 2. R & R Bedding linen pillowcase set, $80. 3. Maple soaps, $16 each. 4. Chanel bag, $3,650, from the Chanel boutiques. 5. Mud Australia
beakers, $49 each. 6. Cape Byron Distillery Brookie’s Byron Dry Gin, $75. 7. Acne Studios dress, $680. 8. Fallen Broken Street hat, $160. 9. Limited-edition Shield candle, $80,
from The Society Inc. by Sibella Court. 10. Scanlan Theodore pants, $300. 11. Obagi Hydrate Luxe Moisture-Rich Cream, $80. 12. Obagi Professional-C Serum 15%, $80.
13. Giorgio Armani pillow, $510. 14. Hermès chess set, $3,035. 15. Explorer keychain, $35, from The Society Inc. by Sibella Court. 16. R.M. Williams shoes, $545.
OLD
WORLD,
NEW
WORLD
Born in France and raised in Australia,
Chandon has European roots that have
found a loamy home in Victorian soil.
french foundations
Chandon’s visionary French founder brought
Champagne techniques to new territories,
knowing bubbly could and should be shared
with the world. It now has flourishing terroirs in
Argentina, Brazil, California, India, China and
Victoria’s Yarra Valley, making Chandon a rare
sparkling-wine specialist in Australia with
authentic French heritage. Today its wines
continue a celebration of Old World excellence
and New World innovation.
A CHANDON
MASTERS OF THE CRAFT TRIO TO TOAST
Using cool-climate Australian grapes and the TRY THE ENTIRE
French-born méthode traditionnelle of fermenting
in barrel then in bottle, Chandon produces
RANGE OF BUBBLY
exceptionally fine, tiny bubbles with a uniquely BY CHANDON,
Australian essence. This unification of centuries- INCLUDING THE
old French winemaking skills and a bold spirit of
adventure has seen Chandon set the benchmark CLASSIC BRUT, NEW
for delicate, sophisticated and superior sparkling CHANDON S AND
wines in Australia since its inception in 1986.
CREAMY BRUT ROSÉ.
From top: Chandon’s historic
HERE’S TO THE FUTURE Victorian homestead; cool-climate
Chandon’s most recent release is a deliciously wine country provides the Australian
home for Chandon.
forward-thinking break from convention.
Chandon S blends vibrant chardonnay, spicy
pinot meunier and pinot noir with hand-crafted
orange bitters. Created with first-class Australian
grapes following the méthode traditionnelle,
Chandon S is a finessed sparkling that cannot
be replicated anywhere else in the world.
Refreshing and aromatic, enjoy Chandon S
To find out more,
over plenty of ice with a twist of orange. visit chandon.com.au
VOGUE GI FTS
1. 3. 4.
2.
CREATIVE FORCE
7.
INSPIRED BY: JENNY KEE
5.
“WHEN IT COMES TO
BUYING GIFTS, ONE NEEDS 6.
TO UNDERSTAND WHO THE
PERSON IS AND WHAT THEY
LIKE AND BE SURE THAT YOU 11 14.
10.
ARE NOT IMPOSING YOUR 13.
8.
OWN TASTE ON THE RECEIVER!
FOR CHRISTMAS THIS YEAR
I WOULD LOVE HUMANITY TO 12.
9.
REALLY DEVELOP COMPASSION
TOWARDS EACH OTHER; WE
ARE ALL CONNECTED.”
@instagram.com/jennykeeoz
16.
15.
17.
19.
18.
20.
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
1. Boden cardigan, $180. 2. Tod’s loafers, $840. 3. Four Winds Gallery earrings, $2,475. 4. Romance Was Born dress, $550. 5. Fallen Broken Street hat, $140. 6. Hardy Brothers
GEORGINA EGAN
earrings, $2,380. 7. Dinosaur Designs salt grinder, $330. 8. Four Winds Gallery cuff, $1,580. 9. Four Winds Gallery cuff, $995. 10. Armani Casa candle, $150. 11. La Mer
limited-edition Creme De La Mer Moisturizing Cream, $445. 12. Izipizi limited-edition reading glasses, $50, from Until. 13. Four Pillars Australian Christmas Gin, $100.
14. Valentino pants, $2,485, from Parlour X. 15. Dinosaur Designs vase, $210. 16. Country Road Talo apron, $169. 17. Clarins limited-edition Bronzing & Blush Compact, $55.
18. Charvin painting set, from $495, from The Sydney Art Store. 19. Nachtmann Punk whisky tumblers, $35 each. 20. Louis Vuitton: 100 Legendary Trunks, $205.
A royal
Roman palace
Carl Pickering &
Claudio Lazzarini
Fendi reinvented
Dimore Studio
ITALY
COLLECTOR'S EDITION
PHOTOGRAPHED
BY FELIX FOREST
EXPLORED
Australia’s style icon on the trends,
homes & dream destinations
ON SALE NOW
VOGUE V IEW POINT
A RT D I R E C T I O N : D I J A N A S AV O R P H OTO G R A P H : E D WA R D U R R U T I A
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
Clockwise from top left: Tiffany & Co. protractor, $705; triangle, $660; ruler, $745;
tin can, $1,650; yo-yo, $495; AM/PM box, $825; paper cup, $950; crazy straw, $415;
corkscrew, $745; ice-cream scoop, $620; and Tiffany box, $990.
132
T
ETIQUETTE here are two types of people who are interested in gift-giving etiquette. There are the ones
who are well schooled in the art form, who have compiled a list of recipients and cross-
checked against previous gifts. Notes have been taken. And a second type who depends on
Presents late-night shopping sessions, looking up last-minute shipping options in the stealth of the evening.
The unexpected is always sure to delight, but there needs to be a touch of the personal and the
thoughtful, something that celebrates the relationship more than the material. “Start by listening
of mine to what they want, but don’t get them the obvious thing they drop hints for,” says James
Hirschfeld, CEO of Paperless Post. “Instead, get them something that they want in their life, but
Whether you plan wouldn’t dream to buy themselves.” It is a sentiment shared by Claire Tregoning of P.E Nation,
presents way ahead of even if it “might take a bit longer, but you’ll find something that they will love”.
time or wing it in the Reed Krakoff, Tiffany & Co.’s chief artistic officer, has made his mark at the American brand
weeks before Christmas, with his first home and accessories collection, in time for the Christmas season. The collection is
try these gift-giving filled with updated luxury items such as Tiffany & Co. cups in silver, inspired by his first day at
strategies. By Zara Wong. the brand when someone gave him a Tiffany & Co. paper cup and he was struck by its simplicity
yet sense of luxury. “That sense of wit and charm embodies an approachable, offhanded kind of
ART DIREC TION D IJANA SAVO R luxury,” he says on his approach for the collection. “The idea was to return to this playfulness
PHOTOG R APH EDWAR D U R RUTIA
and incorporate it into the designs themselves as well, to really embed it into our storytelling.”
For him, gifts are a chance to celebrate the elevated everyday. “Nothing should ever be just
beautiful or functional,” Krakoff says of the perfect gift. “There has to be an idea, a story that
makes it something greater than simply what it is. Giving and receiving falls in line with the
same ideology: there has to be a certain level of context and richness, a personal connection, to
make anything a truly special gift.”
A tip for eleventh-hour gift-givers: stylist Giovanna Battaglia suggests framed photos, “because
no-one prints photos anymore!” And even the much maligned gift of a candle has a place, according
to Los Angeles-based designer Anine Bing. “It should be because you know they love to use candles
and love the scent you’ve chosen.” For Hirschfeld, a more interesting take on the traditional fall-back
gift is artwork. “People always need artwork and it doesn’t take up a lot of space,” suggests
Hirschfeld, who once received a silhouette portrait of his family dog by Carter Kustera.
While this requires organisation early on, Tiffany Leece, major gifts philanthropy manager at
the Art Gallery of New South Wales, keeps an eye out throughout the year. “So when Christmas,
birthdays and special occasions come around, I tend to have a gift in mind already.” Having
plenty of time to find the right gift can result in the unlikeliest of inspirations. Alexandra Brown,
director and founder of eco-friendly homewares brand Ms Brown, recalls hearing a friend who
loves to cook mention she was seeking a silver fish cutlery service. “While searching at estate
sales and auctions, I found the perfect one still in its original timber and silk-lined box, with the
lid still blank ready to be engraved with initials – I am so excited to give it to her.”
And don’t forget about the build-up and anticipation before the gift is given and opened – it’s
time to embrace the ritual. Each year, Leece chooses a different aesthetic for her Christmas
wrapping: “I have always loved beautiful wrapping, and I’ve inherited this from my mother.”
This year she will be switching out traditional paper for cloud-grey Belgian linen with a deep
maroon-coloured French velvet ribbon. Krakoff remembers receiving a sterling silver Return to
Tiffany key fob as a teenager. “It’s still a very vivid memory for me: I can remember the
excitement when I received the blue box, and the curiosity about what might be inside. It was
more than simply a gift.”
It goes without saying that a thank-you note is a necessity, whether handwritten or electronic.
“It’s important to let people know that you really appreciate something. A card goes a long way,
although a quick email is better than not at all, and a good option if you are pushed for time, but
follow up properly later,” says Brown. Hirschfeld throws back that paper is less important, given
“Start by his founding of Paperless Post: “There are no excuses now.”
listening to You can always think beyond a physical gift. “For the people on my list who ‘have everything’,
what they I love making a contribution to their cause or charity of choice, in their name. It is a meaningful
gift with lasting, personal resonance,” says Leece. Brown considers the gift’s impact: “I like to
want, but don’t support brands and products I really believe in, so I consider the impact of what I’m purchasing
get them for the person receiving it, of course, but also the seller and the environment.” Try taking a long-
the obvious term approach, says Hirschfeld. “I try to give gifts that aren’t consumed, destroyed or go out of
date in just one season. For example, last year I gave my brother a custom suit from P. Johnson
thing they Tailors. It was such a hit, I might do it again.” As for a gauge of what the best kind of gift might
drop hints for” be, according to Hirschfeld? “You know the gift is good if you want to keep it for yourself.” ■
MASSAGE
ROLLER
INFLUENCER
Style
Saasha Burns of straatstories.com styles beautiful looks with
PA N D O R A’s n e w C h r i s t m a s C o l l e c t i o n . M i x i n g b o l d c o l o u r s
w i t h s i l v e r a c c e n t s , w a r m r o s e h u e s a n d l ay e r e d e m b e l l i s h m e n t s
Saasha adds a new dimension to the festive season.
Vi s i t u s i n - s t o r e o r a t p a n d o r a . n e t
VOGUE PROMOTION
DIARY
from the soft contours of the Cafu
collection designed by Danish
duo HolmbäckNordentoft.
Hand-crafted for Georg Jensen
Explore what’s in store and in a beautiful deep blue heavy
worth having this month. glass and in a range of sizes, the
Cafu is highly coveted for its
timeless minimalism – a modern
classic to appreciate today and
cherish forever. For details, visit
www.georgjensen.com/en-au.
A fresh start
L’Occitane has specially updated
its cult Verbena range for summer.
Verbena Fresh Shower Gel is
enriched with menthol and an
organic verbena extract from
Provence, France. It gently
cleanses, leaving the body
delicately scented with a fresh
lemony fragrance. Available in
L’Occitane boutiques, David
Jones, selected stockists and
online at au.loccitane.com.
V O G U E
OUTSIDE
THE
LINES
Step to your own
beat this party
season with
swatches of
perfectly imperfect
pigments at the
hand of Marc
Jacobs Beauty
global artistry
ambassador
Hung Vanngo.
Just one rule:
the bolder
the better.
By Remy Rippon.
D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E
B E A U T Y
138
DECEMBER 2017 139
VOGUE BE AUT Y
HEAVY METAL
Hung Vanngo bypassed
his brush set for finger-
painted swatches of
metallic shadow that feel
anything but contrived.
Marc Jacobs Beauty Eye-Conic
Multi-Finish Eyeshadow Palettes in
Provocouture (Say It), Edgitorial
(Pleather Python), Scandalust (They
Call Her), Frivoluxe (Fabulous!) and
Smartorial (In Doubt), $66 each. On
brows: Brow Wow Defining Longwear
Eyebrow Pencil in Medium Brown, $36,
and Brow Tamer Grooming Gel, $36.
THE DARK
Shine on after sundown with
light beams on every pulse
point – shoulders, nose,
cupid’s bow and cheeks –
teamed with sci-fi nails.
Marc Jacobs Beauty Dew Drops
Coconut Gel Highlighter in Dew You?,
$63, and Glow Stick in Spotlight, $62.
DUNCAN KILLICK
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
BLUSH RUSH
Forget laborious blending,
this season is all about
seeing actual pigment,
from mid-cheeks all the
way up to the temples.
On cheeks, Marc Jacobs Beauty
DUNCAN KILLICK
144
ACROSS THE AZURE
Winged shadow is old news, but
in an electric blue hue and
paired with clumped-up lashes,
it’s the stuff of beauty dreams.
On eyes, Marc Jacobs Beauty
Eye-Conic Multi-Finish Eyeshadow
Palette in Smartorial, $66, Highliner Gel
Eye Crayon Eyeliner in Ody(sea), $36,
and O!mega Lash Volumizing Mascara in
Peacock and All About Yves, $38 each.
Make-up: Hung Vanngo
Hair: Koh
Manicure: Zoe Vokis
Model: Georgia Fowler
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
UP CLOSE
GILT TRIP
W O R D S : L I L I T H H A R D I E LU P I C A
Go for gold in the season’s most festive hue and shine bright long after the sun has set.
ART DIREC TION D IJANA SAVO R
PHOTOG R APH EDWAR D U R RUTIA
FROM TOP, FROM LEFT: Nars Photogloss Lip Lacquer in Muse, $37; Dior Diorific Precious Rocks Golden Glow Loose Powder, $96; Urban Decay Naked Heat Capsule Collection
Lipstick in Scorched, $28; Aerin Tuberose Le Soir EDP, 50ml for $295; Oribe Gold Envy Luminous Face Mask, $140; By Terry Preciosity Flash Light Élixir, $104; Tatcha Gold Spun
Camellia Lip Balm, $44; Dior Diorific Vernis Liner in Precious Rocks, $43; Rimmel Insta Duo Contour Stick, $19; L’Occitane Terre de Lumière Gentle Shower Gel, $30.
On point
Trailblazing
M isty Copeland, who makes a guest appearance in
Sydney with the Australian Ballet this month,
has a way of making things look easy. Arriving
at her shoot with a sunny energy and a wide, beaming
ballet star Misty smile, she instantly makes everyone feel as if she is just one
Copeland has of us. Then the second she steps in front of the camera,
landed a major boom, you realise who you’re in the room with. Here is a
campaign for prodigy who started dance at the advanced age of 13, then
became the first African American principal dancer at the
Estée Lauder –
American Ballet Theatre (one of the top companies in the
and here’s why
world) – a woman who was a muse to and collaborator
that matters.
with Prince and is an author, a diversity advocate and an
By Ying Chu. idol to young dancers everywhere. She’s petite (158
centimetres) but has the effortless strength of an athlete.
And while she’s humble about her own beauty, she’s big on
playing cheerleader to others. She talks about challenging
conventions and how her new role as the face of Estée
Lauder Modern Muse fragrance helps her do it.
Ying Chu: “How did you find confidence in yourself as
a young dancer?”
Misty Copeland: “It took me a while to understand that
the classical ballet field is so much about what you look
like, and also to accept that it’s okay to be different. I don’t
need to look like every ballerina that’s come before me. As
a young person, I wish I had had more examples of success
through people who looked like me, showing me that
brown skin is beautiful. I’ve been able to discover beauty
on my own terms.”
YC: “Who have you looked up to along the way?”
MC: “Veronica Webb [the first African American model to
land a major beauty contract, with Revlon in 1992]. She was
one of the first groundbreaking black women I met early in
my career. She set an example that there were endless
opportunities no matter where you came from.”
YC: “Have you always been into beauty?”
MC: “My mother loved make-up. She never left the house
without full mascara and red lips. But as a child, I never
wanted to stand out. The most I wore, up until high school,
was clear mascara. I didn’t really discover make-up until
I became a dancer, and I still don’t wear much when I’m not
working. But I’ve always been a big perfume person. It’s
something I put on before I step into rehearsal or onto the
stage. I think it’s nice for my partner to smell something
beautiful, and it has just become a part of this ritual of my
preparing to go onstage.”
YC: “When do you feel most beautiful now?”
MC: “On stage, when I’m able to really become the
characters. Something about all that hard work and history
makes me feel beautiful. It’s not that I feel ugly in my
everyday life, it’s just not my goal to be beautiful.”
YC: “So what motivated you to do a cosmetics campaign?”
D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
FRAGRANCE
Scents and
sensibility
When the go-to gift come festive
season also happens to convey
the most personal sentiment of all,
it pays to keep a few things in mind
when deciding on the perfect scent.
By Remy Rippon.
Find a link other than scent
“Feelings behind scents are personal – it
remains a relatively subjective choice,” says
Francis Kurkdjian, the nose behind many
blockbuster fragrances and, now, his own
namesake line. Given the intrinsically
personal nature of fragrance, Kurkdjian
bypasses smell altogether and instead
recommends finding a connection to the
wearer – be it the name, flacon or origin of
ingredients. “I always suggest people choose
a fragrance that makes a link with the person
from an element of the fragrance mix,” he
says. “For example, a perfume can evoke a
place of meeting, a time of the day, a favourite
raw material, a lifetime moment.”
Do your homework
Some shrewd detective work now will save
time come Christmas Eve, so sniff out the
fragrances the wearer currently has on high
rotation. A quick internet search or an in-store
fragrance expert can help pinpoint which
olfactive family your recipient’s signature scent
belongs and recommend another scent that
TA N YA A N D Z H E N YA P O S T E R N A K
AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT JOICO PROFESSIONAL SALONS 1300 764 437 SALON FINDER AT joico.com.au joicoaustralianz
VOGUE BE AUT Y
If in doubt, keep it fresh elemental as scent, it’s important to remember that choosing a perfume for a friend
While there aren’t any ‘safe bets’ when it comes to choosing isn’t about your personal preferences. “You should never offer a perfume that you
a scent the wearer will cherish, Kurkdjian says ‘fresh’ scents think is right for you. The secret of people who give nice gifts is they think of
are generally most appealing. “Freshness is the safest the recipient rather than of themselves,” says Malle. “It’s not about choosing
olfactive direction, as it is not disruptive and is often linked a ‘good’ fragrance. It’s about choosing the one that’s a good match with the
to cleanliness,” he says. How to pinpoint a ‘clean’ scent? person who will be wearing it.” So sideline your olfactive tendencies and keep an
You won’t find a link to a particular fragrance family, so open mind (and nose).
trust your instincts; if freshly cut grass, clean laundry, rain,
or crisp mornings spring to mind on application, then Focus on personality traits
chances are you’ve found yourself a clean slate. It’s no revelation that we wear fragrances that reflect our mood. When choosing a
scent, ignore the actual notes of a perfume and instead focus on the personality traits
Seek out a new incarnation of the wearer. “We often describe a scent with the same words you would describe
So you’ve been tasked with buying a fragrance for your someone’s spirit and soul: bright or discreet; deep and intense or sparkling, light and
mother/sister/daughter/best friend? Naturally, you’ve coquettish; complex or simple; natural or sophisticated,” says Gilles Thévenin,
started to comb the department store floor for ‘the one’, creative director of Lubin Paris. “You’ll be surprised how close you can get to the
but there might be a simple solution. “Rather than suggest right scent if you are precise enough in your description of the wearer-to-be.”
a new fragrance, I’d recommend that you find out which
perfume is treasured above all, and buy a gift of a matching Make an introduction
body product – a body lotion or crème, shower gel or bath We all have comfort zones when it comes to scent, but sometimes stepping outside
oil, dusting powder or soap,” says Michael Edwards, the box can introduce the wearer to a whole new fragrance world. With the new
fragrance expert and creator of industry go-to Fragrances of guard of niche offerings presenting unlikely combinations and exotic ingredients,
the World. Consult a fragrance expert who can help with it’s quite possible to gift a juice outside the wearer’s olfactive bubble. Which isn’t
pairing complementary notes (aka fragrance combining) a bad thing. “There is no ‘bad taste’ as far as fragrances are concerned, only ‘different
or layering matching scents. tastes’,” says Thévenin. “Sometimes you give someone the opportunity to discover
an original scent that they wouldn’t have thought was suitable for themselves.”
Remember it’s not about you Olfactive journeys are indeed personal, but, according to Edwards, sometimes the
Although it may seem counterintuitive to ignore your best fragrance gifts are those which you wouldn’t purchase: “To me, the perfect gift
own instincts, especially when it comes to something as is something that you’d love but probably wouldn’t buy for yourself.” ■
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
E D WA R D U R R U T I A
While
you were
sleeping
The benefits of sleep are well
documented, but what really
happens to your skin and hair
when you nod off? By Remy Rippon.
S
leep. It may be one of the most hyped
subjects of the wellness movement.
From Gwyneth Paltrow, who spruiks
‘clean sleeping’ and stocks indelicately named
supplements like Why Am I So Effing Tired?
on her wellness site Goop, to Arianna
Huffington, who penned the best-selling book
The Sleep Revolution, which claims to
‘transform your life, one night at a time’, it
seems everyone is sanctimonious about sleep.
Like adopting a floral wardrobe for spring,
the notion that sleep is beneficial is neither
surprising nor groundbreaking. In fact, the
beauty industry has been championing
the cause long before Paltrow jumped on
board. Take Estée Lauder’s trailblazing
Advanced Night Repair serum. Launched in
1982, it was the first formulation to recognise
that skin repair and sleep are happy
bedfellows. Now, phrases such as ‘circadian
rhythm’ and ‘REM sleep’ are as at home on
press releases as descriptors like ‘plumping’
and ‘smoothing’.
And rightly so. “Skin does the bulk of its
repairing, restoring and regenerating while
we sleep,” says cosmetic and laser
dermatologist Michelle Hunt. “Lack of sleep
means that the skin does not have the ability
to fully repair and regenerate. This results in
compromised skin barrier function and
increased signs of intrinsic skin ageing.”
When we fall into a deep sleep – yes, quality,
not just quantity, matters – we naturally
produce human growth hormone, which
plays a pivotal role in healing cells throughout
the body, notably in our skin. “Not getting
enough sleep cuts the crucial repair time,
which can actually cause fine lines to become
more prominent, dark circles to pop up, and
your complexion to turn pale, dull and droopy,”
says sleep expert Dr Carmel Harrington,
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SLUMBER PARTY Topical products that dial up the effects of a good Swedish researchers found that the appearance
PARTY-SEASON PEP-UP PRODUCTS night’s sleep, increasing hydration and aiding cell of subjects who had restricted sleep diminished,
TO HELP YOU GET RESTFUL SLEEP turnover, have shifted from specialist treatments to and people’s willingness to socialise with them
– OR AT LEAST FAKE IT. being the hallmark of an efficacious beauty regimen. was negatively affected (fickle things, we are).
Beauty entrepreneur Charlotte Cho cherry-picks the It concluded “the relationship between sleep,
Chanel Le Lift most effective and popular formulas from Korea and attractiveness and a healthy appearance still hold”.
Skin Recovery
Sleep Mask, sells them on her e-commerce platform Soko Glam. If there was ever a more obvious indicator of put-
$165.
165. “We have an entire section dedicated to sleeping togetherness and instant appeal, it’s our hair. It’s also
masks,” she says, noting those that hydrate skin why hair brands too are championing the sleep cycle.
overnight are among the fastest-moving stock. “Even though the hair doesn’t have live cells like the
“Sleeping masks cocoon the skin as you sleep, skin, what overnight treatments offer is the benefit of
delivering skin-benefitting antioxidants and time,” says Bronwen Robinson, executive director of
Too Faced
Hangover 3-in-1 humectants, which is a type of ingredient that helps Bumble and Bumble. “Damaged hair is really porous
primer and the skin retain moisture.” and it needs to absorb all of the nutrients possible.”
setting spray,
$46. Meanwhile, K-beauty brand Glow Recipe had Applied to dry hair, the brand’s newest release, While
a 5,000-strong waitlist for its Watermelon Glow You Sleep Overnight Damage Repair Masque, is
This Works Sleeping Mask when it launched earlier this year. spiked with soothing camellia and evening primrose
Stress Check Packed full of hyaluronic acid and the chemical oils to nourish and restore tresses overnight.
Face Oil, $74.
exfoliants glycolic and lactic acid, it aims to mimic Regardless of beauty due diligence, no amount of
the buffing and smoothing effect of an in-clinic product can mirror the glow of seven to nine hours
treatment, all while you doze off. (the recommended amount of sleep per night)
The jelly-like mask signals a departure from the of blissful slumber. And physiologically, women do
double-cream texture typically associated with actually need more sleep then men. “From puberty
nighttime agents, which Hunt attributes to a “higher onwards, women require on average around 20 to 30
concentration of anti-ageing ingredients”. The new minutes a night more and yet they will struggle to get
slew of slow-absorbing moisturisers are packed full it,” says Harrington, adding she sleeps one hour
of antioxidants, like vitamins C and E, and anti- longer than her husband each night. “If I tried to
ageing freedom fighters such as retinoids and match his sleep I would be exhausted by the end of the
glycolic acid in lightweight, nourishing formulas that week.” It seems we really do need our beauty sleep.
Go-To Fa
Face Case silk pillowcase, $65.
are designed to penetrate the skin over several hours.
Zoë Foster Blake, founder of Go-To Skincare, says Shut-eye techniques
what we choose to rest our head on at night also Sleep expert Dr Carmel Harrington’s top tips for
affects our skin. It’s why the latest addition to her a restful night’s snoozing.
Go-To beauty line happens to be a silk pillowcase 1. Set an alarm for one hour before bedtime, and at
designed to minimise friction between the skin and that point turn off all technology, dim the lighting,
fabric (a godsend for belly sleepers) and therefore light a candle and have a warm shower.
avoid morning creases, which can lead to wrinkles 2. Don’t get anxious if you wake up in the middle
HydroPeptide Nimni Cream, $380.
over time. “A silk pillowcase won’t absorb moisture of the night. Recognise that it is completely normal
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
from your skin, or cause friction between your skin to spend up to 10 per cent of our sleep time in
and the pillow. Plus [you’ll have] frizz-free, silky wakefulness.
hair,” she says. 3. If you can’t get back to sleep, try some breathing
Whether via your bed linen or your beauty cabinet, exercises, which will lower your heart rate and blood
we need all the help we can get. A 2017 study by pressure and hopefully help you slip back to sleep.
Bumble and Bumble While
Bumb
You Sleep Overnight Damage
EXCLUSIVE
MARGOT
ROBBIE
Australian
SUPERNOVA
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watershed:
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next for
women?
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1 2 / 1 7
160
PROMISE OF THE HOLIDAY SEASON. LET THE LIGHTNESS OF SUMMER
ABOUT
MARGOT
162
DECEMBER 2017 163
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164
Gucci archival top,
courtesy of Albright
Fashion Library.
Prada men’s pants,
$985. Louis Vuitton
boots, $2,590.
L ACHL AN BAILEY
Calvin Klein dress, P.O.A. Fragrance: Calvin Klein Deep Euphoria EDP.
166
Raf Simons sweater,
$1,515, and T-shirt, $380.
Helmut Lang archival
shoes, courtesy of
Albright Fashion Library.
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
CREDIT
168
L ACHL AN BAILEY
172
L ACHL AN BAILEY
M
argot Robbie opens the door to an enormous those decisions. I’ve had enough experiences to have more of an
hacienda-style mansion in Albuquerque, New opinion like: ‘Actually, I wouldn’t have done it like that, or I think they
Mexico, a door lined with Halloween pumpkins should have done something different right now.’ So now I get to be
of varying sizes and hilarity. “Hi, I’m Margot!” one of those people who say: “Hey, maybe we should do it a little
she offers with a huge grin. Suddenly a scruffy differently.” It’s nice to have that opportunity. It’s enormously
little black rescue dog the size of a feather satisfying to build something and to be part of something and to take
duster leaps out, spinning in circles, and control of my career.”
Robbie’s smile turns to a frown of panic: “Oh, Albuquerque is the unlikeliest of places you would expect to find
be careful, he might pee on you!” The pooch, Australia’s brightest young Hollywood starlet building her own movie
named Boo Radley, jumps up and begins standing on two legs with empire. But yet it is here, in the high-altitude desert plains, that Robbie
such panache that you forget he is actually a four-legged animal. has set up court for the short term while her production company,
It is a comical moment akin to a scene out of a Woody Allen comedy that LuckyChap, makes a film nearby. The idea of LuckyChap was first born
morphs into Entourage: the bombshell movie star – dressed off-duty in in 2013 in a house Robbie shared in London with her aforementioned
dark denim overalls, a striped red-and-blue T-shirt and white hotel entourage: Kerr, McNamara and then-boyfriend Ackerley, the latter
slippers – and her excitable canine named after one of literature’s most both British assistant directors whom Robbie met on the European set
famous characters, holding court in the middle of the desert. The rest of of Suite Française. This year they all officially relocated to LA, where
the home’s residents, who come and go over the next two hours, make newlyweds Robbie and Ackerley finally moved into a house of their
up the supporting cast: there is Josey McNamara, the friend and business own, and the collective officially opened an office on the Warner Bros.
partner who appears from another room halfway through the interview, studio lot in January. But on this October day, the LuckyChap team have
Sophia Kerr, the childhood bestie who doubles as an assistant and pops in temporarily rented this Airbnb mansion in the High Desert area at the
from behind a stairwell, and Tom Ackerley, the handsome, laconic foot of the Albuquerque mountains, high above the city, while they film
husband who wanders into the kitchen from the gym. Only this is Robbie’s Dreamland, the third movie to be produced under their banner. They are
real life, these are her real friends, and this is more than just a movie. also preparing to release I, Tonya, a dark comedy about Tonya Harding,
Robbie, 27, encompasses everything you want from a leading lady: she the disgraced former ice-skating champion accused of orchestrating an
is funny and feisty, a femme fatale with looks to die for and a business- attack on rival Nancy Kerrigan in 1994. The film, a bizarre true story
savvy, brilliant attitude to boot. She talks feminism and being a female that delicately tackles domestic violence and comedy, received rave
role model as easily as discussing her favourite fashions while reviews after it screened at the Toronto International Film Festival and
simultaneously crunching movie budget numbers like a seasoned there are already whispers of Oscar buzz for Robbie’s impressive turn
accountant. Her favourite term “100 per cent” slips into conversation as as the perm and scrunchie-wearing ice-skating anti-hero Harding.
easily as her other typical twentysomething saying, “like”; and her face Here, Robbie is getting down to business while enjoying privacy away
lights up at the sight of her husband as much as it does when she discusses from the paparazzi that this desert sanctuary affords her. In between
her absolute love for making movies. Family and friends are obviously starring in and producing Dreamland,
her primary passions, with films coming in a very close second. she is conducting meetings for her
It has been 10 years since Robbie burst onto our TV screens in “It’s nice next projects – before our interview
Neighbours before making the leap to Hollywood with a life-changing, she had a script meeting, the day
scene-stealing turn in The Wolf of Wall Street in 2013. Since then her
to have that after she would meet with an
movie repertoire has run the gamut from indie films (Suite Française, opportunity. It Australian director who had flown in
Z For Zachariah) to comedies (Focus, Whiskey Tango Foxtrot) to is enormously from LA especially to discuss a rather
blockbusters (The Legend of Tarzan, Suicide Squad). In the coming months,
she will appear in the period dramas Mary, Queen of Scots (in which she
satisfying special project. Every other weekend,
Robbie flies around the world to
plays Queen Elizabeth I with a receding hairline and scarred skin) and to build promote I, Tonya before returning to
Goodbye, Christopher Robin, in which she portrays Winnie-the-Pooh author something and their little refuge nestled on a windy
AA Milne’s socialite wife Daphne with perfectly British aplomb. And to be part of road lined with trees that are
while her star continues to rise, Robbie, not one to just sit back and enjoy bursting with stunning autumnal
the trimmings of Hollywood success, is now venturing further and something and colours and panoramic views.
stepping up into her newest role: that of producer and self-described to take control “It’s stunning here. I went for a
president of her own production company. She is taking control of her of my career” walk this morning trying to tire Boo
own destiny from behind the scenes, where she wants to be a female out,” Robbie says as she looks out the
role model by example, in charge of producing female-driven content. window while putting the kettle on.
“I already work with a ton of female writers who are brilliant, and As if on cue the dog reappears at my feet, doing that weird two-legged
I want to work with female directors,” she says. “I really want to work pose again. “It’s like walking into the set of an old Western. Apparently,
with actresses my own age. I’m trying so hard to get projects up and it’s the cleanest air in America here, too. I think we’re 5,000 feet above
running with an ensemble of young female characters, because that’s sea level. And the crew are just so great to work with. It’s so beautiful,
my life, my group of girls, we’re a gang and we roll together and I’m we’re really lucky.”
like: ‘Why is that not reflected in film?’” She adds that a matured sense Ackerley walks into the kitchen just back from a workout and Robbie
of confidence from several years honing the machinations of teases him affectionately about it being his second gym session of the
Hollywood has propelled her to take on producing. “I feel like I’ve day, before making him a cup of tea. The close bond between the pair,
been in the business long enough now watching other people make who married in an intimate ceremony in Byron Bay last December, is
1 74
obvious. They briefly discuss scripts they have been reading and their While fame brings invites to the
plans for the evening – they are hosting a screening of I, Tonya for the
“A couple Oscars and the Met Gala, Robbie’s
cast and crew of Dreamland. Ackerley then gives his wife a quick kiss of years ago, down time is preferably spent with her
and disappears into the vortex of the house and Robbie, ever the I was almost nearest and dearest. Weekends at
hostess (incidentally she makes a mean cup of tea, perfected from years home are enjoyed visiting the local
of living in London), offers me something to eat and reads out the
scared to say farmers’ markets, barbecuing “or
contents of the fridge: watermelon, chicken, Japanese goji balls. She I was a feminist picking up her dog’s poo”, according
W
settles on watermelon. because it to Kerr. She remains tight with her
school friends from the Gold Coast,
e move into the lounge, where Robbie
had negative and even went backpacking for a
sits in the middle of an enormous connotations, month in the Philippines with the
modular settee, cross-legged and by like: ‘If you’re LuckyChap team last year. “She has all
now barefooted (Boo has stolen her the same friends since before she was
slipper for a chew toy), and while her
a feminist, you famous,” Kerr says. “She FaceTimes
conversation later meanders through to hate men.’ But her mum, siblings and nephew [who
marriage, feminism and being a female men can be live on the Gold Coast] on a weekly
role model, she begins to wax lyrical basis. She’s in group texts where we
about LuckyChap. She is at pains to
feminists too” all make fun of one another … she
point out that while happy to use her star power to launch the company, doesn’t get any special treatment!”
it is a democratic collective of four primary members – soon to be six. Robbie says she misses her family enormously and is extremely keen
They will also include TV projects on their production slate. to come back and make a movie in Australia to spend more time with
“I can’t star in every LuckyChap project, but to get started that’s how them, and support the local industry: “Ever since we got the company
we got our traction, and so moving forward most projects I won’t be in,” up and running, I was like: ‘We need to work with young directors,
she says. “And the goal would be to eventually have a very established first- and second-time directors – male or female; we need to work with
production company with a varied body of work and hopefully critical female writers, directors, actresses, obviously, and Aussies wherever
acclaim and prestige connected to the name but the company would be possible. And let’s shoot stuff in Australia!’ That is my dream.”
its own entity, not ‘Margot Robbie’s company’ because it’s not, it’s Being at the centre of a business comes with a lot of pressure, she
everyone’s company and so we’d kind of like to steer away from that.” admits, but being surrounded by her close friends keeps her grounded.
I ask whether it is a help or a hindrance working with her closest “It’s hard, I’m sure a ton of people reading this have their own business
friends, and Robbie shrugs her shoulders. and it’s so hard. Having a business is stressful and time-consuming, but
“A lot of people cautioned us against starting a company with our it’s incredibly rewarding,” she says. “There are obviously a lot of times
friends, and I was actually really disappointed with how many people where I’ll have a meltdown and go: ‘I can’t do it anymore.’ And you miss
told us that it was a bad idea,” she says. “But I guess we’re one of the out on a lot of things, like you rarely go on holidays, you miss everyone’s
exceptions to the rule because we’re still all the best of friends and we weddings, everyone’s birthdays. I haven’t been home once this year,
love working together. It’s perfect, because work never feels like work to I haven’t seen my best friends, my nephew. So there’s that side to it
me. I’m always with my best friends, I trust them implicitly, we know where it kind of hurts to sacrifice those things, but it’s also enormously
each other so well, we know everyone’s strengths and weaknesses and satisfying to build something and to be part of something. It’s wild to
how to spread projects among ourselves so that we can be as productive think it’s been 10 years since Neighbours. It’s so crazy because time has
and efficient as possible and it’s been great so far.” flown, but at the same time, so, so much has happened. I’m thrilled with
Robbie’s fame has grown exponentially since The Wolf of Wall Street where I’m at in my career. I’ve got absolutely no regrets, every experience
catapulted her into the spotlight and Suicide Squad spun her further into has been incredible, character-building and career-shaping.”
the blockbuster Zeitgeist (Harley Quinn was one of the most popular I first interviewed Robbie in 2014 when she was promoting Focus,
Halloween costumes last year, even among Robbie’s own friends, and riding off the back of her Wolf success and excited about future
has even been known to help her out when immigration officials don’t prospects. She is still wide-eyed and excited, but has matured into a
recognise her). She is also the face of Calvin Klein Deep Euphoria whip-smart woman determined to leave a definitive mark and create
perfume, and the attention around her surprise wedding to Ackerley her own path under her own rules, and to have fun while doing so.
was intense. The pair celebrated their big day surrounded by 50 of her “Like sunshine” is how her best friend Kerr describes her, while Wolf
closest friends and family. Her now iconic Instagram post announcing of Wall Street director Martin Scorsese says Robbie is “like no-one else”.
the nuptials, with her sticking her ring finger up to the camera, went “Margot has … a unique audacity that surprises and challenges and
viral. “It’s crazy,” she says. “I’ve seen so many other people on Instagram just burns like a brand into every character she plays. She clinched her
announce their engagement that way now. It’s kind of funny, so bizarre.” part in The Wolf of Wall Street during our first meeting – by hauling off
I ask if being married has changed anything, especially now they are and giving Leonardo DiCaprio a thunderclap of a slap on the face,
working more closely together, and Robbie looks down at her pear- an improvisation that stunned us all,” Scorcese wrote in a tribute to
shaped diamond ring. “That’s the thing, we were best friends and Robbie when she was named one of Time magazine’s 100 Most Influential
roommates before and now we’re like best friends and roommates still, People earlier this year. “Margot is stunning in all she is and all she
so nothing’s really changed at all. Other than the fact that I get to wear does, and she will astonish us forever.”
this on the weekends. I can’t obviously wear it during the week when I, Tonya director Craig Gillespie says being able to work with Margot
I’m working – I don’t want to lose it on set.” “was a director’s dream”. “She came to set so prepared, having →
me even more proud to be a woman. I get to do it with my best friends in the world, it’s just awesome.”
“Like at the awards the other night, [producer] Kathleen Kennedy Goodbye, Christopher Robin is in cinemas November 23; I, Tonya will be
was speaking about starting a fund so that there can be a support released in February.
176
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
O F
S U M M E R
178
Valentino dress,
$5,920. All prices
approximate; details at
Vogue.com.au/WTB.
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
CREDIT
Cushnie et Ochs
swimsuit, $595.
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CREDIT
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
Pringle coat,
$2,455. Araks
swimsuit, $455.
SEBASTIAN KIM
182
DECEMBER 2017 183
This page: Hermès
dress, $3,925. Her
the Label briefs, $85.
Opposite: Miu Miu
jumpsuit, $3,500.
SEBASTIAN KIM
184
CREDIT
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
SEBASTIAN KIM
186
DECEMBER 2017 187
Céline trench coat,
SEBASTIAN KIM
$4,800. Norma
Kamali bra, $110,
and briefs, $105.
188
Chanel bodysuit,
$1,230, from the
Chanel boutiques.
190
Gucci top, $815.
CS ER BE AD SI TT I A N K I M
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
Christian Dior
dress, $17,000.
SEBASTIAN KIM
192
Rosetta Getty
top, $632. Pringle
pants, $635.
Hair: Bok Hee
Make-up: Yumi
Model: Julia van Os
Shot on the Lauren L.
Special thanks to
Lauren and Ryan Black.
L I G H T I N G
T H E W A Y
In response to overwhelming grief, Susie Cave threw herself into work
on her label The Vampire’s Wife, in the process transforming an insiders’
I
favourite into a global brand. By Christa D’Souza. Portraits by Polly Borland.
t’s wrong to have preconceptions about the insides of other people’s homes. But this airy
Regency house on a crescent overlooking Brighton Pier, with its Mary Poppins-ish facade and
wellies neatly lined up in the hallway, is not at all what I’d expected. Where are the lamps
covered in fringed shawls? Or the gothy purple walls? This, after all, is the residence of Susie
and Nick Cave, a.k.a the “prince of darkness”.
Still, a sense of the dramatic pervades. Squawking seagulls outside compete with a Beethoven
piano sonata playing in the background. A giant candle burns in the hallway. Underneath the
staircase are two large dog baskets neatly lined with vintage fox-fur coats. Then, of course, there
is Susie herself, 51, a shy, softly spoken presence and every bit as extraordinary-looking in the flesh
as in pictures, with that marble skin and that curtain of raven hair and those unexpected curves.
Think Jessica Rabbit via St Trinian’s with a bit of Colette mixed in. You might remember her in the late
80s as legendary It girl Susie Bick, who ran away from boarding school on a milk float, was discovered
by Steven Meisel at 14 and became muse to Nick Knight, Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin – and
then most latterly to her husband, the lugubrious frontman of Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds.
I’m here to talk about The Vampire’s Wife, the label Susie founded with her friend and business
partner Alex Adamson in 2014. Having started out as an insidery capsule collection, mostly for
Susie’s circle of friends, it has, in the past two years, become a bona fide global brand, and the cooler
go-to for the red carpet. Dakota Johnson, Ruth Negga, Lily James, Cate Blanchett … these are just
some of the fans of the sexy “street-sweepers”, as Susie calls the signature full-length frocks. Kate
Moss, another ardent admirer, describes them as “Little House on the Prairie dresses” gone luxe.
“I have always been a little in awe of Susie,” says Moss, who first met her at a Vivienne Westwood
show. “I love how she oozes sex in an unassuming way – a lot like her clothes, actually …”
Welcome, then, to the world of Susie Cave, mother, model, muse – and now fully fledged
designer. It’s a world that has remained mostly private since she married in 1999, but one that was
unavoidably pushed into the spotlight two years ago when her son Arthur, twin to Earl, and 15 at
the time, fell to his death from a cliff after experimenting with LSD.
In the 2016 documentary One More Time with Feeling, shot just months after Arthur’s death, Nick
describes his grief after the event in excruciating detail. Susie, though, appears only fleetingly: →
194
Susie Cave with her husband,
Nick, photographed in Los
Angeles. The Vampire’s Wife
silk dress. Susie’s own shoes.
Details at Vogue.com.au/WTB.
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196
detached, cipher-like and glassy with grief. This is the first time she has is probably not healthy, I know, and one day maybe I’ll find a therapist
felt ready to talk about that time publicly and the subject still makes her to process it all, but to be honest, work is what has saved me.”
voice falter. She explains that what helped lift her out of that “treacle of In the past year, the line has expanded to encompass cashmere/silk
despair”, as Nick once put it, was work: how sustaining her business and cardigans in pastel shades, chiffon blouses, figure-hugging, high-
watching it grow felt almost like a life force of its own. waisted pencil skirts and tailored trousers. While I’m here, she tries on
“There’s definitely a joy in creating,” she says. “I’ve always wanted to for me a silk-lined trouser suit in a blue cotton Liberty print and a game-
make beautiful things, but at the same time it’s about not wanting to be a changer of a black lamé jacket emblazoned with red flowers. “My first
victim of what happened to Arthur, not wanting to be paralysed for the ever jacket!” she says. “I was terrified when I saw it on the hanger, but the
rest of my life. And, of course, wanting to show Earl the best way I can moment I put it on I thought, yes.”
survive this. We had to keep it together for him and not let him feel “Susie has spotted something fashion is not delivering,” says Ruth
scared he was losing his parents.” Chapman of Matchesfashion.com, which has been stocking The
We’re sitting downstairs at the dining-room table, set with gold cutlery, Vampire’s Wife since 2015. “Not so much a new idea, but a tried and
on which Susie has laid out a delicious vegan spread. Dotted around the tested one that makes us feel great: an old-fashioned English sensibility
room are pictures of Arthur as a little boy and one of the four of them, with something that makes us feel super-sexy and feminine. She’s
taken by Dominique Issermann. Behind effected that very difficult thing of making you feel as if they are
me are four gold helium balloons spelling one-offs, like she’s made something just for you.”
Earl’s name, a remnant of his recent 17th “She “I don’t know what it is,” says Florence Welch, who wears the label
birthday party. Every so often, Susie looks understands both on- and off-stage, “but they make you look like you’re practising
anxiously out of the window to see if he is the power of witchcraft in a very romantic cult, which is how I want to look all the
back from school, admitting that ever time. As a musician, I worship at the altar of Nick Cave, so I’ve always
since the evening Arthur didn’t come the female been fascinated by Susie as his enigmatic muse and inspiration. It’s been
home she has been terrified the same form more so beautiful to see the muse become the maker.”
could happen with Earl. “It’s irrational, than anyone Arguably, it is Nick himself who is The Vampire’s Wife’s biggest fan. It
I know, but that’s how you live after was he who came up with the name, poached from an unfinished novel of
a trauma, constantly on the edge.” I have ever his about the relationship between muse and creative process, and he
The grief is still etched, may forever be met … she whose input Susie values most. After Nick’s month-long absence on tour,
etched, in those bottle-green eyes, but it has her own she is excited for him to see an idea of his – a fitted velvet street-sweeper
cannot feel as bottomless – if that is the the colour of a dense yellow egg yolk – made into a sample. “When he
right word – as it did that desperate
belief in her suggested it, I was like: ‘Really?’” she says. “He’s much more daring than
evening in July 2015. Arthur and a friend, own concept me like that. But he has amazing taste and I trust him 100 per cent, and he
the inquest later heard, had gone out to of beauty” was right, it works. He gets a little shy about his involvement, though.”
the cliffs near Rottingdean Windmill to “Susie took a very small idea and in a very short time turned it into
try LSD for the first time, having
– Nick Cave something quite magnificent,” Nick offers via email. “I just watch from the
researched it online the night before. But sidelines, in awe. She took all the heartbreak of the past two years and
although initially they were “in good spirits and happy”, the pair through a kind of ferocious will channelled it into something very moving.
started experiencing vivid hallucinations. It was after they became She understands the power of the female form more than anyone I have
separated that Arthur plunged 18 metres down the cliff on to ever met. She really does not care what others think: she has her own belief
the underpass of Ovingdean Gap. He was taken to hospital but in her own concept of beauty and that is the end of it.”
died from his injuries. Brought up partly in Africa, partly in Cheshire, Susie Hardie-Bick
How, how, does one navigate one’s way through a tragedy like this, had always been obsessed with making her own clothes. As a girl she
I have to ask her? How do you put one foot in front of the other? How do was taught by her grandmother how to use a sewing machine, and
you yourself survive? “Well, Nick never really left my side for a year,” as a boarder in the late 70s spent hours taking in her friends’ jeans.
she says, “and my closest friends and family rallied, but really, everyone “Remember how flares went out and drainpipes came in almost
was so kind and so helpful … You know, even just the people of overnight? No-one could afford the new look and it was an easy thing
Brighton, people we didn’t actually know, were extraordinarily kind. taking them in from the inside.” She began modelling full-time at the
And, of course, Nick’s fans … We will never, never forget that. age of 16. By the early 2000s she had featured on a Roxy Music album
“The week after Arthur died, I was in bed,” she continues softly. “I said: cover, appeared nude on the catwalk in Robert Altman’s film Prêt-à-Porter,
‘Nick, I can’t do this. The Vampire’s Wife is over. Everything is over.’ And and was the face of Dior.
then three months later I got a call from Daisy Lowe saying she needed a Bella Freud, who met her in the early 90s and was godmother to
dress for an awards ceremony and would I make one for her. So I dragged Arthur (she is now godmother to Earl), remembers her, “this exotic
myself into the office to find the red fabric. And she wore it. And I saw it creature”, in her pre-Nick days, with a trail of male admirers (including
photographed. That was kind of a breakthrough. From then on I went to Prince, who would send her bunches of roses), who without particularly
work every day. For six months after he died I had this routine. In the trying caused mayhem wherever she went. “Her beauty was so extreme,
mornings I’d do things for me – funny things, like I had a friend who had and she was always so generous with it, like maybe not aware of how
a horse and I’d just go and stroke it and feed it grass, which felt very powerful it was,” recalls Freud. “I remember the first time we met, on
P O L LY B O R L A N D
grounding. And then in the afternoons, without fail, I went into the a shoot in Hyde Park, and this gust of wind was blowing up her skirt,
office. Having to show up, having something to do which was physically and instead of slapping it down as most people would do, she just very
demanding enabled me temporarily not to think of anything else. Which gently smoothed it down as if to say, fine, let people see. →
198
“It’s been
so beautiful
to see the
muse become
the maker”
– Florence
Welch
sending up a
embroidered
SANCTUM
a comment on
robes resembled
to an age-old art,
needed to create
the near-religious
a 640-hour gown.
levels of devotion
liturgical cassocks,
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s
hallowed hallelujah
VA L E N T I N O’ S
C H A N E L’ S
CHARMED
CIRCLE
The obsession
with French
insouciance
endures,
helped along
by Karl
Lagerfeld’s
conjuring of
an impossibly
chic coterie
clad in
impeccable
tweed and
party dresses
trimmed
with feather
sprays. Every
other girl
wants in.
202
G I A M B AT T I S TA
VA L L I ’ S
FA N TA SY
FLOCK
Is there a more
couture-apt
inspiration point
than spring? And
does anyone do
a dress as giddily
outré as Valli? The
answers are no
and no, as he sent
out gleefully large
finale gowns
studded in
dainty florals.
BLAIR BREITENSTEIN
204
FENDI’S
PRETTY
POSSE
The stupefying
effect of
flowers en
masse
intoxicated
on the Fendi
runway. Petals
were strewn
across dresses
and fluttered
forth in 3D, a
mesmerising
invitation.
BLAIR BREITENSTEIN
S H I F T
The sun has set on overly stuffy eveningwear,
but where does that leave us? The new breed
of attire takes selectively from the past to
say something new. By Alice Birrell. Styled by
W
Kate Darvill. Photographed by Hugh Stewart.
P H OTO G R A P H S : H U G H S T E WA RT G E T T Y I M A G E S H A I R : P E T E L E N N O N M A K E- U P: P E T E R B E A R D
to be able to wear a Galvan piece to a black tie event and afterwards to shape but demonstrate a concern for freedom of movement that would
a casual bar without feeling out of place in either venue.” The label’s make Madeleine Vionnet, the master of drape and fluidity, proud.
modern eveningwear, which Harrison designs alongside Anna- A fuss-free approach is mirrored by Australian designer Rachel
Christin Haas, and fellow co-founders Carolyn Hodler and Katherine Gilbert, who is celebrating 10 years in business this year and has spent
Holmgren, is made to flit between engagements. Take an all-black off- time formulating an easy approach to eveningwear. With gowns that
shoulder jumpsuit with tassels trimming the neckline: worn with heels, have run the gamut from shimmering column dresses to dresses with
it nears red-carpet levels of dressing up. With sneakers, it’s a friend’s cascading ruffles nearly dwarfing the piece beneath, she has produced a
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
birthday party. Fan Sienna Miller wears the label on red carpets capsule collection to celebrate the anniversary that strips it back to
M O D E L S : A N YA J E S S I C A A N D E R S O N E M E L I I N A P O R VA R I
(a molten silver and nude stripe slip) and to the tennis (at Wimbledon essentials. “Simplicity is key in occasion dressing at this time,” she says.
she sat courtside in a white jumpsuit). While centrepiece dresses are somewhat stock-in-trade for her, and
“Women are generally not as willing to spend an exorbitant amount certainly not off limits for today, Gilbert explains it is in the way you
of money on a single garment that they can only wear once,” says wear it. “Less is more. If you choose a statement dress of bright colour,
Harrison. “Anna and I always keep in mind that we want our customers print or embellishment, avoid loud accessories or bold make-up.”
to be able to accessorise our pieces in different ways.” “The more spectacular the dress, the less often you can wear it,” says
Current designers like Rosie Assoulin and Sally LaPointe willingly Smith, who believes a more austere approach provides flexibility and
take on these challenges, with the former enlisting friends to tell her wearability, a point reflected by the pieces in the Darnell Collection that
exactly where they need outfits to take them and how they need to have stood the test of time. “It’s when [designers] haven’t gone
function at night. As a result, Assoulin builds pockets into all of her overboard with the particular style or feature that’s fashionable in that
gowns that meld a surprise element – think a fabric traditionally used decade.” Like a Bill Blass black crepe de chine gown that, though
208
out today. “Versace has an element of decadence and rebellion embedded
within its DNA and this has such a poignant relevance right now, as
consumers search for ways to express their individualism,” she observes.
That same era was one that Smith says she sees a lot of freedom of
experimentation in. “You go back to that whole idea of decadence and
luxury and women had money, they were working, designers were
creating extraordinary fashion,” she says. ”Women could wear whatever
they wanted as long as it was flashy.” In 1984, the New York Times
commented on the fashions of the time. “At a dinner table, a slender
shift encrusted with brilliant stones and with one covered shoulder
Above: models in faces a woman in a satin dress with puffy sleeves the size of basketballs.”
ATTICO S/S ’18
Madeleine Vionnet,
in 1930. Below, from
If the more excessive looks from the era overwhelm, take then only the
left: a model wearing attitude: wear what you want. Or look to more silhouettes making their
a Balenciaga gown in ROSIE ASSOULIN RESORT ’18 presence felt in fashion right now. “Hindsight can be a wonderful thing
the Palace of Versailles,
France in 1952; an and can take you to unexpected
Yves Saint Laurent places,” says local designer Rebecca
dress from Paris “The rules of Vallance. “Midi-length skirts and
Vogue, 1970.
eveningwear dresses are definitely still alive and
have become well today. That 1920s feel,
championed by Coco Chanel, feels
more fluid. relevant for any occasion. Falling
We want our anywhere from below the knee to
customers to mid-calf, the look feels feminine and
can be worn in a modern way, with
be able to wear flat sandals, heels or sneakers.”
a piece to a The robe dressing of cult favourite
black tie event Attico and new Israeli label Marei
1998 equally taps an early 20th-
and afterwards century feeling, the kind of opulence
to a casual bar the masterful Paul Poiret applied to
without feeling his louche gowns, coats and
nightdresses. He dealt in the
out of place” unexpected, putting into fashion
elements that people hadn’t
dramatic, is difficult to pin definitively to an era, or a Valentino long- considered, like modernist art and Greco-Roman dress. Kathleen
A
sleeve velvet evening gown that could be worn easily today. Buscema, womenswear buyer at Harrolds, where Attico will be stocked
from next month, believes finding that surprise element is the perfect
t the height of his career, Cristóbal Balenciaga, contemporary interpretation of this spirit.
consumed by fabric and cut, would often only She advises trying a sequined or beaded pouch or clutch as a focal
venture into fussy embellishment at the wearer’s point with the most shine instead of jewellery, or if you do choose
behest – Ava Gardner once requested ostrich statement jewels, leave the hair undone and make-up minimal. “Party
feathers attached to the sleeves of an opera coat and season should be fun, playful and sexy,” she says. Kingham also
a flower trim added to a monastic black evening encourages embracing what hasn’t been as thoroughly explored in
cape. Should we be relegating sequins and flair to occasionwear in the past. “Flat shoes are now acceptable within this
the back of the cupboard? category,” she advises. “There are plenty of evening flats around that
“The opulence in eventwear should always be present, even if it has are still really elegant paired with a gown, from Sanayi 313, Nicholas
become subtle,” says Gilbert, who says today black tie could mean Kirkwood and Christian Louboutin.” A favourite look for her is a Racil
a simple black slip with minimal make-up. “There seemed to me to be a tuxedo in candy pink with a simple slipper.
time when dressing down was more cool for an evening event, but there Elsa Schiaparelli once said that a dress has no life of its own until the
has been a shift in this because women relish a chance to dress up,” says wearer puts it on and “another personality takes over from you and
Matches Fashion buying director Natalie Kingham, who suggests animates it”, something Buscema believes is true today. “I’ve always felt
sequins, lamé and crystals from labels such as the two-collection that eveningwear should be a way to showcase an alter ego,” she says.
powerhouse Halpern, Paula Knorr and Gucci this party season. “Gone are the days of being a mannequin. She now wears the dress, not
Fragis, who worked with London vintage couture boutique William the dress wears her, so anything goes if she can confidently feel free
Vintage to sell 500 original Versace pieces – many from the raucous 1980s enough to do so.”
– exclusively on Farfetch, knows that even the eras that were the most If only those McGill girls could hear her, they would sashay in their
outrageously decadent can be a rich well to draw from when stepping slacks out into the night and not come home until dawn. ■
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
M I N I M AY H E M
F I L T E R
Who said that a plunging
neckline and thigh-skimming
hemline don’t go together?
Michael Kors’s dazzling
molten mini is a rule breaker.
Michael Kors Collection blouse,
$3,865, and sarong, $3,830.
Haarstick Jewelry earring, $55.
MICRO TO THE MAXIMUM. HIGH IMPACT. ALL SET TO GLITTER Saint Laurent by Anthony
AND SHINE. DRESS UP AND DANCE ’TIL DAWN. STYLED BY Vaccarello boots, $2,280.
CREDIT
210
CREDIT
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT V O G U E . CO M . A U/ W T B
212
BEAM ME UP
Christopher Kane
plunders Noughties style
with a NASA twist.
Chanel coat, $21,360, from the
Chanel boutiques. Christopher
Kane dress, $2,270. Haarstick
Jewelry earring, $55. Saint
Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
boots, $13,025.
DYNAMIC DUO
Part superhero, part
kink – Gucci’s pulse-racing
crystal-mesh duo just
became the party
ensemble of the season.
Gucci top, $3,075, and leggings,
$3,810. Van Cleef & Arpels earrings
set with diamonds, P.O.A.
THEO WENNER
214
SHOW TIME
When it comes to sensational
showgirl style in 2017, you
have to hand it to Balmain.
Balmain mini-dress, made to order.
Intimissimi briefs, $40. Chanel
earrings, P.O.A., and bag, $3,540,
from the Chanel boutiques. Saint
Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
boots, $13,025.
216
THE LONG REVEAL
Worn unfastened to the navel, Armani’s sequined jacket says good girl gone bad.
Emporio Armani blazer, $2,600, and earrings, $450.
Hair: Tomo Jidai Make-up: Sally Branka Manicure: Yukie Miyakawa
Model: Freja Beha Erichsen Production: Atlas Productions Prop stylist: Kadu Lennox
F O R W O M E N ?
It was a year that began with the women’s march and ended with
the Weinstein sex abuse scandal reigniting empowerment – but
how can we make the ordinary extraordinary? By Jamila Rizvi.
O
rdinary is just code for what you’re used to. the world, are in danger of growing accustomed. The new normal is
In 1986, the year I was born, a New York Times also evocative of a particularly famous phrase from The Handmaid’s Tale.
review of Margaret Atwood’s famous Aunt Lydia, the terrifying enforcer of Gilead’s misogynistic regime,
dystopian thriller The Handmaid’s Tale made tells the young women in her care that they need to forget about their
reference to a ‘post-feminist’ world. Equality, old lives. “This may not seem ordinary to you now but after a time it
according to the reviewer, was done and will,” she explains to the red-cloaked handmaids, who once enjoyed a
dusted by the mid-1980s. Her implication was freedom similar to yours and mine. “It will become ordinary.”
that the fight for women’s rights had been So I ask that you to consider this: what has become ordinary, for you?
won. She argued that Atwood’s cautionary tale of a United States In October this year, the New York Times published an explosive report
government being overthrown and replaced with a misogynistic, detailing at least eight settlements between Harvey Weinstein, the
totalitarian regime was less powerful than comparable novels like 1984. Hollywood mega-producer, and various women in his employ. Over
Why? The imagined world of Gilead just seemed so … implausible. decades, sexual harassment and assault allegations had been covered up
Fast-forward three decades and The Handmaid’s Tale is once again on in the – highly successful – pursuit of preserving Weinstein’s wealth,
the lips and pens – and now keyboards – of cultural influencers. The power and influence in Hollywood. Weinstein commanded the kind of
television version, starring Mad Men’s Elizabeth Moss and Orange is the wealth and influence that could make or break a young actress’s fledgling
New Black’s Samira Wiley, has captivated audiences and infiltrated the career. The vertical imbalance of power in Hollywood, between the men
Zeitgeist. Hundreds of thousands of column inches have been dedicated who control the money and the ingénue women who are trying to build a
to unpacking and unpicking an old story that has been reimagined for career, is awfully convenient for a sexual predator. So much so that
a new time: the time of Trump. What was once dismissed as far-fetched a sexual predator’s activity was permitted to became ordinary.
has been rendered eerily possible. When actress and this month’s cover star Margot Robbie was
Across the developed world, and certainly here in Australia, the honoured at a Women in Hollywood event in the midst of the Weinstein
assumption of many – and for some time – has been the same as that scandal, she read out a letter entitled ‘Dear Hollywood’. She said: “Being
1986 reviewer: that we live in a post-feminist society. Even if women a woman in Hollywood means you will probably have to fight through
and men weren’t truly equal, they are at least very close to being so, we degrading situations and will be offered chauvinistic roles by men who
reasoned to ourselves. The election of Donald Trump exposed that think that that’s all anybody wants to see us play. But even those of us
presumption of equality for the lie that it was. A man with zero lucky enough to have established a career in the hallowed grounds of
qualifications had defeated a woman with exemplary ones for the most show business are still in the shadows of the big trees, constantly
powerful job on the planet and that’s just how it goes. It was a brutal reminded that we only grow in the sunshine they allow us.”
reminder that many people still believe a woman should never be in The painful reality of daily sexism experienced by women in
charge. That a man who brags openly about sexual assault can be Hollywood and, of course, by women everywhere, stands in contrast to
granted the right to sign laws that dictate women’s control over their the bright optimism of a reinvigorated feminist movement. Dressed
own bodies. in pink woollen pussy hats, feminism is having its moment once more.
Commentators have since warned that global politics is at risk of The exposure of Weinstein has emboldened women to be louder, to
adjusting to a ‘new normal’; a ‘normal’ where principles mean little and rebut the pretence that this is ordinary, that this is normal. Millions
facts are for sale. This tells us that what is normal is simply what we’re posted to the #MeToo hashtag on social media, revealing the prevalence
used to. What we call normal is not a fixed concept but an ever-changing of sexual assault across industries from the law to education, from
one that is prejudiced by perspective. The slow erosion of women’s hairdressing to finance, from work sites to corporate offices. Their
rights, the daily threat of nuclear war, the demonisation of immigrants bravery was both heartbreaking and, for many, illuminating. As Robbie
and the erratic behaviour of a President are things which America, and paid tribute: “Their bravery and courage to speak truth to power has
218
made a powerful impact that can be the start of real change … These air commercial network screening of the netball. Cricket sunk big
difficulties we face are to share the same spirit of those faced by money into promoting the Women’s Ashes. Tennis continues to lead the
countless women all over the world who struggle for the right to earn a pack with equal tournament prize money for women and men despite
living, the right to be heard, and even the right to be safe from harm”. the ongoing – and stupid – discussion about three sets versus five.
This is how ordinary looks in our world right now: 62 million girls Even the fashion industry, which has previously deserved no
don’t go to school. 15 million are illegally married each year to men applause and wins no awards for its contribution to diversity, is
much older than them. If you filled a Toyota Tarago with the eight changing. The outdated, narrow definition of beauty, which says that
richest men on the planet, that silver van would hold approximately the only extremely thin, white, cis women can be attractive, is shifting.
same wealth as the 3.6 billion people who make up the poorer half of Across London, Milan, Paris and New York, there were 12 transgender
humanity – the majority of whom are female. Labouring under the models who walked the runways this year. There were also 21 women
guise of equality, even privileged Australian women work in a system aged over 50 and 30 ‘plus-sized’ models. Close to 30 per cent of the
that advantages men and impoverish us. There are more CEOs named models that appeared were women of colour, the highest proportion
Peter than there are women CEOs among Australia’s top 200 companies. recorded since that data has been collected. The international success
Women retire with half the superannuation of men and live for longer. of Australian-Sudanese models Akiima, Adut Akech, Ajak Deng and
A 2015 report revealed that one Australian woman a week is killed by Duckie Thot, Asian-Australian Fernanda Ly and Indigenous model
a man who once told her he loved her. For women who face intersectional Charlee Fraser has been incredibly heartening. However, we still have
disadvantage, including women of colour, women with disabilities and a long way to go.
trans women, the statistics are even more dire and distressing. The gap Australia regrettably lags behind the rest of the fashion world. Both
in life expectancy between Indigenous and non-Indigenous Australian our catwalks and fashion magazines generally fail to represent women
women is a heartbreaking 10 years. in a diverse way and on the rare occasions they do, the women
Yet in among this deep, dark inequality, there is also light; so very themselves pay a price for being visible. It was devastating to see First
much light. The courage of women who spoke out in the wake of Nations model Samantha Harris speak recently about the abuse she
Weinstein’s exposure gives me hope. So too do the up to two million receives online. This repulsive intersection of sexism and racism will
people, most of whom were women, who took to the streets in solidarity only deplete when we become more forceful in challenging an
following Donald Trump’s election. I draw inspiration from the teenage ordinary that says Australia is
girls at my local high school who are campaigning to be allowed to white. In challenging our
wear the boy’s uniform. I am buoyed by the willingness of time-poor We should not ordinary, it is essential that we
women I know to volunteer for causes that are close to their hearts and make that ordinary more diverse.
to part with hard earned money so that another woman won’t have to
underestimate In the final episode of the
do without. I am proud that feminist books are among our nation’s the importance television version of Handmaid’s
bestsellers. I am excited that television shows where women are able of these small Tale, the protagonist, June,
to tell their own stories are smashing the ratings. becomes steely in her refusal to
Women can – and are – changing what is ordinary.
moments and accept the status quo. Dressed in
We should not underestimate the importance of these small moments the larger her dramatic red cloak and white
and the larger symbolic ones to promote real and meaningful change. symbolic ones winged bonnet, she remarks that
Television star Lisa Wilkinson’s alleged all-or-nothing demand for pay her oppressors shouldn’t have
parity with her co-host is a case in point. Wilkinson reportedly earned
to promote real given the women of Gilead
around half of Karl Stefanovic’s pay packet when hosting Today. And and meaningful uniforms if they didn’t want them
while one high-earning individual’s salary does not equality make, change to become an army. She and the
Wilkinson’s departure from the Nine Network did put equal pay on the other handmaids find hope in
front pages of our newspapers – and kept it there – for a week. There are their defiance. In a world where
women who earn less than a 20th of what Wilkinson does who are also they are rendered powerless, they use what little power they do have to
screwed over by the gender pay gap, but they cannot risk speaking up fight back. Their power comes from their common experience as women
or asking for more. They might lose their only income source and not be and their refusal to be complicit in one another’s oppression. It is the
able to find another. They have no choice but to accept less. So when same message that Margot Robbie delivered when rounding out her
privileged women like Wilkinson take a stand, they do it not only on Women in Hollywood speech. “Thinking about being a woman in
behalf of themselves but also on behalf of other women who cannot Hollywood reminded me that when you take away Hollywood, we are
afford to. all just women, all facing the inequalities that being a women brings
In sport, the equal pay issue has previously been dwarfed by women’s with it,” she said. “And, what I’ve come to understand is that, though
right to be taken seriously as professionals in the first place. Yet, 2017 we are unique and powerful as individuals, we are invincible when we
was truly a coming of age for women’s sport in Australia. High on the come together.”
success of the Olympic gold-medal-winning Rugby Women’s Sevens, My hope is for Australian women to make that our ordinary. For us to
there was the groundbreaking launch of the AFLW in February. The recognise the interconnectedness of women’s experience and the
league will expand to include more teams in the coming seasons. importance of speaking up and out in support of one another. To make
Footage of the thousands who were turned away at the gates from the the feminist movement more inclusive of diversity and difference and
inaugural AFLW match still gives me chills. Those who said women to not rest until equality for women means equality for all women, not
didn’t want to watch one another play sport were left eating their words just a privileged few. Feminism is on the public agenda once more. Let’s
with a dash of sriracha sauce on top. Soon audiences will enjoy free-to- keep it there until gender equality becomes our ordinary. ■
RESORT REPORT
P
Postcard
from Milan
Prad
Prada
da ch
chose
hose its hhome
ome base for the
launch of its first resort collection,
giving fashion week regular Alison
Veness a reason to revisit her
favourite Milanese haunts.
220
Opposite: right up in
the roof of the Galleria
Vittorio Emanuele II
building in Milan, the
site of the Prada resort
ALISON VENESS
The scene is set: pink seats on the front row. Detail of a door at the Duomo. The epic Fondazione Prada.
A wall of gold at Fondazione Prada. Miuccia Prada backstage after the show. A carousel at Parco Sempione.
Divine creations at Pasticceria Marchesi. The grand space of Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. The Wes Anderson-designed Bar Luce.
222
I
wanted to do a kind of a modernist show,” Miuccia Prada tells us side street, Via Borgospesso, and ‘da Bice’ (Ristorante Bice), which is one of
backstage after the Prada resort ’18 collection, staged on the sixth the booked-out places to have dinner during Milan fashion week.
floor high above the Prada store in the architecturally epic Galleria Ristorante Da Giacomo is the other big name in town during the week,
Vittorio Emanuele II building – soaring skies, all epic steel structures. The and is one of the prettiest restaurants in Milan, with its eau de nil walls and
juxtaposition of the “lightness and the industrial was very inspiring, and beautiful tiled floors. There is also a newer version at eye level with the
I wanted to work on the contemporary but somehow sporty, a kind of Duomo, situated on the side of Piazza del Duomo. The food is amazing.
metamorphosis into an elegance – an elegance of sport, or vice versa”. And so in between the shows and the food, some exercise is required.
And so the collection named ‘Suspended Ensemble’ was a lightness of The parks are beautiful and full of forgotten statues, good for running
being, high up in the clouds so close to the antiquity of the famous or walking. A Vogue favourite is Parco Sempione, near the
Galleria, with its curling iron and glass dating back to the 19th century. A legendary Castello Sforzesco. The Triennale di Milano is here, too, at
feat of engineering, a daring modernism; something Miuccia Prada Palazzo dell’Arte, a great design and art museum, the restaurant (yes,
knows a thing or two about. The back to food) is good, and the
overwhelming sense from this bookstore is fabulous and
collection was of a fragile stocked with lots of Etorre
sensuality, one of delicate Sottsass’s Memphis stuff
lingerie, edged with crystals and and excellent fashion and
feathers, all brought back down to photography books.
the ground floor with pale grey Another must on the book
sneakers. “A sensual beauty, front is 10 Corso Como, founded
feminine, eccentricity of that kind and owned by Carla Sozzani,
of turn-of-the-century, that sister of the late Vogue Italia
beauty,” she explains. Of course, editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani.
she knew that a “transparent The books are great here and
dress in front of the industrial there is always a thought-
cupola should look good” and it provok ing photograph ic
did; there was a poetic simplicity, exhibition and a tempting store
and nice racy touch of the etched downstairs that has a carefully
iron on the knee-length socks that curated thrum of Comme des
almost segued into a 1920s jazz Garçons, Azzedine Alaïa,
note. Fine layers, pastel colours, Vivienne Westwood, Sacai,
ephemeral and totally escapist. Vetements … the list is endless.
“As always, I like what is light (They have neat accessories and
and dark, yet something good menswear, too.) The little
modern,” she says. This was her evergreen courtyard is the place
first formal presentation of a to drain a glass of red wine,
cruise collection, although she and again people-watch. It’s all
doesn’t like the word ‘cruise’. So about watching.
call it what you will, resort, But back to Prada. Never leave
perhaps, or ‘holiday’; it is a happy Milan without a visit to the
place to be, and why we are Fondazione Prada. It is heavenly
writing a postcard. for many reasons. Firstly, the
PRADA RESORT ’18
is impossible to leave empty-handed). That’s enough. Do any of this and you’ve done Milan. You will be
Also in this street is Pasticceria Cova Milano. It is another local broke, perhaps, but richer. Shop your head off. Also you have to book in
institution, a place to people-watch and gossip. The truffle sandwich is advance to see The Last Supper. Prada is synonymous with holidays; ever
mouthwateringly memorable, as are the dainty boxes of chocolates. since 1913 the company has produced the finest luggage and bags. So
Further up Via Monte Napoleone, opposite Céline, is a narrow cobbled don’t leave without one. Pack light, leave heavy: you’ll love Milan. ■
Timeless appeal
The new-season Thomas Sabo
watch collection combines a
stylish aesthetic with unique
designs, such as the Glam Spirit
(shown below), a delicate
stainless-steel ladies’ watch
with a fine mesh bracelet. More
than simply timepieces, each
model reflects the personality
of its wearer with the same
dynamic elegance as jewellery.
Go to www.thomassabo.com.
VOGUE
The dark side
Nothing says glamorous like a pair
DIARY
of oversized shades. Gigi Hadid
and Reese Witherspoon are just
two of the stars who have made the
big jump this season. Make a style
Explore what’s in store and statement too this summer with
worth having this month. Donnie Darko sunglasses by Trelise
Cooper. These squoval-shaped
frames are big, black and bold, and
the reflective gold arms add an air
of sophistication. Also available
in blue. For more details, visit
www.zebrano.com.au/sunglasses.
Something borrowed
When you want to look fabulous
but don’t want the hefty price
tag, I am Finesse is the solution.
Australia’s leading designer
dress hire service – stocking
labels such as Balmain, Givenchy,
Zimmermann and Valentino –
will help you put together a luxe
look for less. Simply hire your
ideal outfit and they’ll look after
the dry-cleaning when you return
it. Visit www.iamfinesse.com.au.
Sagittarius Capricorn Aquarius
HOROSCOPES
December
23 NOVEMBER – 21 DECEMBER 22 DECEMBER – 20 JANUARY 21 JANUARY – 18 FEBRUARY
Life returns to a kind of It’s all about your mind this Friends have been off the radar
normality, lighter in spirit, if month. Your entrepreneurial and the tribes you’ve yearned to
heavier in experience. You’ve streak is activated, too. Your connect with may have appeared
been through an emotional goal? To be taken more seriously. impenetrable lately. All that
wringer and had your reckless Big plans are also best kept starts to change this month, as
streak tamed, but now you’re a hush-hush for now. A new look miscommunications get ironed
rebel with a cause. This month or new love could emerge, so out. Your career could be more
you can afford to be liberal with exercise your body as well as full-on but also more fulfilling,
your affections, so long as you’re your mind to keep a healthy and romance gets more subtle
canny with your cash. perspective. and serious – as do you.
STYLE ICON: Rita Ora STYLE ICON: Kate Moss STYLE ICON: Emma Roberts
artistic, as turning a pastime Balancing your finances is a say now that will have a lasting
into a business is an option theme that’s set to run and run, effect. Sharing your wisdom
that could have staying power. so how to avoid an austerity and experience all have potential.
Home feels happier than it’s mindset? Invest in items that Just be sure to use your head, but
been in a long time this month. stand the test of time. communicate from the heart.
STYLE ICON: Beyoncé STYLE ICON: Mia Wasikowska STYLE ICON: Katy Perry
MYER
Jennifer Hawkins, the face of Myer, made a
special appearance to host the unveiling of new
collections from leading Australian designer
brands including Acler, Finders, Alex Perry,
Misha Collection and more. Festival guests were
also treated to a range of in-store designer
appearances, DJs and activations.
WRAP PARTY
Presented by East End Social, the official Vogue
Festival wrap party featured a spring/summer
’17/’18 runway event showcasing some of
Australia’s most respected labels trading in the
East End. Guests were shown collections by Sass
& Bide, Alannah Hill, Naomi Murrell, Morrison,
Jack London, Harvey the Label, Tigerlily,
MJ Bale, Saba and Leonard St., with a runway
finale paying homage to the Australian Fashion
Labels group, which this year celebrates its 10-
year anniversary. Tunes, drinks and canapes
were also on the menu at the exclusive event.
BARE BODY BOUTIQUE READY OR NOT
The Bare Body Boutique is The ultimate in destination boutique
Australia’s number one swimwear shopping. Mother and daughter
store offering the hottest and
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EVAS SUNDAY
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TIGER AND TAUPE MY DRESS AFFAIR
Matte lips have never felt so good. Why buy a dress to only wear it once?
Tiger & Taupe’s Signature Collection Australia’s largest ‘luxury’ designer
VOGUE AUSTRALIA DIRECTORY
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pigmented to create a defined, velvet and international fashion brands.
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BELLE COULEUR
ILOVELINEN
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QUEEN BEE
Bump friendly trends, the latest
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CHC72488-0717
Always read the label. Use only as directed. If symptoms persist consult Phone the Australian College of
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