ADA SUBMISSION

ON
BLOCKPRINTING

SUBMITTED BY: PRANATI AGGARWAL

SRIHITHA SABBINENI
MEENAL GRACE BARA
AMEESHA GOEL
[Email address]
 Block Printing
Block printing is a form of dying and coloring a fabric using wooden
blocks. India is one of the largest manufacturer and exporters of block
printed fabric in the world. Block printing craftsmen use wooden or
metal blocks to create beautiful designs.

It is the earliest, simplest and the slowest of all methods of textile

printing. Block printing by hand is a slow process. It is however, capable
of yielding highly artistic results, some of which are unattainable by any
other method.

The major centers in India where block printing is done on a large scale
are as follows:

 Gujarat (Surat,,Ahemdabad, Sanganer, Pethapur)

 Rajasthan (Bagru)
 Andhra Pradesh
 Uttar Pradesh
 West Bengal

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 The Origins of Block Printing :

There is archaeological evidence that an early form of block printing on

textiles existed in India as far back as 3000 BCE, during the period of the
ancient Indus valley civilization. It was not until the 12th century that
the traditional art of block printing began to flourish. The states of
Gujarat and Rajasthan are particularly renowned for manufacturing and
exporting magnificient printed cotton fabrics. The art is not traditional
to eastern India and was introduced to West Bengal in the 1940s. In the
17th century, Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan and his court were widely
known for their love of the arts. This gave motifs in block printing
visibility to a wider audience in and outside of India. The states of
Gujarat and Rajasthan are regarded as the birthplace of Indian block
printing and traditional techniques that are still used in the
contemporary designs and colours.

Description

Block Printing of Rajasthan in India is known for the intricate designs

and the details that are made on the block prints. Block printing is done
on rich and vibrant colors and this aspect has given prominence to
Block Printing as a craft of Rajasthan.

The wooden blocks of different shapes and sizes used for block printing
are called bunta. The base of the block has the design carved on it. The
fabric is washed free of starch before printing is done on it. Printing is
done from left to right. Standard colors used for block printing are
black, brown, orange, red, and mustard. The fabric is dried out in the
sun.

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 BASIC EQUIPMENTS

• Printing table

• Printing colour tray

• Blocks

• Wooden net

• Net

• Dye tray

• Sponge

• Blanket

• Brush

• Colour trolley

• Gum basket

First, the fabric to be printed is washed free of starch and soft

bleached. If dyeing is required (as in the case of saris where borders or
the body is tied and dyed) it is done before printing.

The fabric is again washed to remove excess dye and dried

thoroughly. The fabric is stretched over the printing table and fastened
with small pins. This in an important stage as there should be a uniform
tension in the fabric with no ripples. The colour naphthol to be used are
kept in a tray on a wheeled wooden trolley with racks which the printer
drags along as he works. On the lower shelves printing blocks are kept
ready. Under the naphthol tray is another tray containing a thick
viscous liquid made from naphthol binder and glue. This gives the color
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tray a soft base which helps to spread color evenly on the wooden
block.

The printing starts from left to right.

When the block is applied to the fabric, it is slammed hard with the fist
on the back of the handle so that a good impression may register. This
job is usually done by an expert printer who ensures the effect is
continuous and not disjoined. The fabric is sun-dried, which is part of
the colour-fixing process. At last we will dye the cloth into Naphthol
dye.

Sketch the design on the wood

Small tipped knives for engraving

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Make the design on the wooden block.

Application of paste on bloc

After printing on fabric.

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Block printing motifs
 Each hand Block printing of Gujarat and Rajasthan can sometimes
be differentiated by the colours that they use. Gujarati block
prints are captivating with their bright colours sometimes printed
on a light background, whilst Rajasthani block prints, particularly
from Bagru, are often printed on red and black
backgroundsprinted garment created is unique.

 In Rajasthan, popular motifs and colours incorporate figurative

designs of animals, birds, dancing women and Gods in a variation
of striking colours. Printers of Persian origin in the city of Bagru
and the village of Sanganer are credited for popularising
sophisticated floral motifs.

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 The print of flower-laden trees surrounding red chillies against a
blue-black outline is synonymous with the Barmer district of
Rajasthan.

The motifs and colours of traditional block printing continue to appear

in contemporary fashion culture, both in and out of India.

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Different Techniques Of Hand Block Printing :
Discharge printing:

In this technique before the printing is carried out, first the fabric is
dyed to desired colour, then the dye is to be removed at selected
places by chlorine or other colour destroying chemicals (which yields a
white pattern on a coloured ground) from the part of the fabric where
the design is to be printed. Coloured patterns on a dyed ground are
possible in this method by adding to the bleaching paste a dye not
affected by the bleaching agent used, so that another colour is
substituted for white on the dyed ground

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Direct block printing:

The fabric is first bleached and then dyed with desired colour. After
that the hand block printing is done with carved wooden blocks in
borders and in the inside of the fabric.

Resist printing:

In resist printing the design desired, is printed on the fabric with a

material (Wax or resin) which will resist dyeing. The fabric is then dyed
with desired colour. Washing after dyeing removes the resist material
in which design is printed leaving a white pattern like the following
print effect is achieved on the fabric.

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Various designs of blocks.

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Application of colors to fabric.

Importance of Health and Safety:

Use and maintain personal protective equipment such as Hand Gloves,
Gum Boots, head cap etc., as specified.

Never handle chemicals with bare hands.

Store materials and equipment at their designated places.

Monitor the workplace and work processes for potential risks.

Take action based on instructions in the event of fire, emergencies or

accidents, participate in mock drills/ evacuation procedures organized
at the workplace as per organization procedures.

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 FIELD TRIP TO WEAVERS SERVICE
CENTER

On 2nd November 2016 we visited the weavers service centre in

Nampally escorted by our teacher Dr. Shaqeel Iqbal. First of all we
were told about the various local prints, fabrics and specialities of
certain areas like gadwall saris which are very popular throughout
the state. Further, sir told us about Narayanapet saris
(Mehboobnagar), Nawabi lungis, pochampally and dari work from
Warangal. Then we were shown the handloom which was very
fascinating for us as we had never seen it before. We were
explained the various parts of the loom and their respective uses.

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Next, we were shown and explained about the tie and dye process
and the different ways of doing it. We even witnessed a skilled
artisan weaving an Ikat cloth. Then we were told about the
different type of dyes used on different types of fabrics. For
example vat dyes are used for cotton fabric and acid dyes for silk.

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After that we were shown the block printing process. We learned how
it is done and what are the important steps and precautions. We even
witnessed a highly skilled artisan block printing a piece of fabric.

We had a great learning experience and the trip was very fruitful. I
would like to thank the weavers service centre and our teacher, Dr.
Shaqeel Iqbal for this opportunity.

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