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What is weed?
Weed is a plant considered
undesirable in a particular situation, "a
plant in the wrong place.

Types of weeds:
 Formatted: Font: (Default) Times New Roman, 26 pt

weed is a plant considered undesirable

in a particular situation, "a plant in the
wrong place". Examples commonly are
plants unwanted in human-controlled
settings, such as farm
fields, gardens, lawns,
and parks. Taxonomically, the term
"weed" has no botanical significance,
because a plant that is a weed in one
context is not a weed when growing in a
situation where it is in fact wanted, and
where one species of plant is a valuable
crop plant, another species in the same
genus might be a serious weed, such as
a wild bramble growing among
cultivated loganberries. In the same
way, volunteer crops (plants) are
regarded as weeds in a subsequent
crop. Many plants that people widely
regard as weeds also are intentionally
grown in gardens and other cultivated
settings, in which case they are
sometimes called beneficial weeds. The
term weed also is applied to any plant
that grows or reproduces aggressively,
or is invasive outside its native
habitat.[1] More broadly "weed"
occasionally is applied pejoratively to
species outside the plant kingdom,
species that can survive in diverse
environments and reproduce quickly; in
this sense it has even been applied
to humans.[2]

crabgrass, you'll need to address the issue

in spring when the plant is at its most
vulnerable. The best option is to remove the
plants by hand, roots and all. After that, use
an organic fertilizer to encourage the growth
of lawn grass which will crown the crabgrass
out.
7 MEDICINAL WEEDS & HOW TO
USE THEM
JULY 3, 2018 JORDAN CHARBONNEAU
LEAVE A COMMENT
Dealing with weeds may be one of the worst
parts of gardening. No matter how diligent
you are or how much you cover crop and
mulch there will always be a few that get by
you and mature. While I’ve often heard
gardeners refer to edible weeds with the
positive motto, “if you can’t beat them eat
them.” It doesn’t always work for me. When
I’ve worked hard to nurture a late crop of
heirloom lettuce onto our plates, a salad of
wild greens just doesn’t have the same
appeal. However there are medicinal uses
for some of the pesky garden weeds that
plague your summer chore list. Here’s a list
of common medicinal weeds and how they
can be used.
Ground Ivy/Creeping Charlie
Ground Ivy is edible but not exactly tasty. It
has been used medicinally treat a variety of
ailments. It’s astringent, anti-inflammatory,
and very high in vitamin C. It was once used
to treat scurvy. Today you can make it into
an immune boosting tea or tincture.
Plantain
There are two common types of
plantain, Plantago major (left) and Plantago
lanceolata (right), and both share the same
medicinal properties. Plantain leaves and
seeds are edible and full of important
vitamins but the leaves are most frequently
used externally. The leaves have anti-
microbial and anti-inflammatory properties
and can be crushed and placed on small
injuries and insect bites to help soothe and
heal.
Chickweed

This plant is often used to treat stomach

conditions including constipation. It’s also
high in vitamin C and can be made into a
tincture or eaten fresh.
Dandelion
Flowers, leaves, and roots, all parts of the
humble dandelion are medicinal. Though it
hasn’t been well studied dandelion is
believed to help support liver function and
balance hormones. The leaves and flowers
can be dried as tea, made into a tincture, or
eaten fresh. The roots are sometimes ground
and dried as a coffee substitute.
Cleavers
Also called goose grass or bedstraw, this
plant is most commonly used as an herbal
tea to treat urinary infections and promote
kidney health. It is extensively used in
products like chanca piedra which ensure the
smooth functioning of kidneys and the gall
bladder. The plant and its seeds are very
good at sticking to clothing.
Wood Sorrel
Wood sorrel was once commonly believed
to a blood cleanser. It has also been used to
treat stomach ailments including vomiting
and a poor appetite. Juice from wood sorrel
plants is believed to helpful in treating
ulcers when used as a mouth rinse. It’s also
thought to help treat sore feet when added to
a tub of warm water, a perfect use for the
busy gardener! Though tasty, it should be
consumed in moderation as it is high in
oxalic acid which can inhibit calcium
absorption.
Lambsquarters

Lambsquarter actually is quite tasty but it

can also be used medicinally. Traditionally
it was used internally, either eaten fresh,
cooked, or made into a tea to treat rheumatic
pains and chronic wounds. It’s can also be
crushed and used as a poultice to help soothe
eczema, sunburns, and insect bites.
Using a few herbal remedies won’t eradicate
the weeds from your garden or replace your
costly health insurance but maybe it will
help you connect with nature. Maybe it will
make you a little less sad to see weeds
popping up in your garden. What weeds
have you utilized from your garden?
I’m not a medical practitioner or herbal
medicine expert. Please consult a doctor
before trying to use herbal remedies to
treat any ailment. Some plants may interact
with certain prescriptions or pre-existing
conditions.
Pin it for later.
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COMMON GARDEN WEEDS
IDENTIFYING AND CONTROLLING
COMMON WEEDS
By Catherine Boeckmann
August 8, 2019
No one likes to talk about weeds, but if
you’re growing vegetables, fruit, herbs, or
flowers, it’s important to identify and
control the unwanted plants. Here are 13 of
the most common weeds found in gardens
and lawns—with weed identification
pictures and tips on how to manage
their growth.
WHAT IS A WEED?
A weed is simply a plant growing where it is
not wanted—usually in competition with
cultivated plants. For example, if you are
intending to grow strawberries, you don’t
want other plants (weeds) taking over
your patch.
Understand how different plants grow and
spread. A handful of weeds are naturally
strong competitors; those weeds that can
best compete always tend to dominate.
Of the approximately 250,000 species of
plants worldwide, only about 3% behave as
weeds that we don’t want in cultivated areas.
These weeds have many traits in
common, including:
 Abundant seed productivity—
sometimes tens of thousands of seeds
per plant.
 Rapid population establishment
and spread.
 Long-term survival—seeds go
dormant but then sprout just as soon
as conditions are right.
These weeds are troublesome in many
ways. Primarily, they reduce crop yield by
competing for water, light, soil nutrients,
and space. Some produce chemical
substances which are toxic to crop plants
(and often animals and humans).
“Weeds” aren’t inherently bad,
though! Many weeds stabilize the soil and
add organic matter. Some are edible to
humans and provide habitat and food for
wildlife, too. See “Eating Weeds: Why
Not?”
So, there is a balance. To the agriculturist,
the weeds that interfere with cultivated crops
do need to be controlled, in an economical,
practical and safe way, in order to produce
food, feed, and fiber for humans
and animals.
TOP 5 WEED CONTROL TIPS
1. Never let ‘em set seed!
This is the #1 rule with weeds. Some
varieties produce tens of thousands of seeds
from a single plant, multiplying your weed
control problems for years to come. So make
certain you remove weeds around your
home before they flower and produce seeds.
Pigweed, purslane, Shepherd’s purse,
chickweed, and lambsquarters are examples.
Their seeds are very small and light enough
to be blown by the wind over short
distances, spreading profusely and often
surviving for decades in the soil.
Remember that it may take a few years to
get weed-free. Seeds of most annual weedy
grasses die after two or three years, but
some broadleaf weed seeds can last much
longer. On average, though, the bulk of your
weed seeds will be depleted in about five
years if no additional seeds are added. That
means diligence is the key.
2. Mulch!
For further weed suppression throughout the
growing season, apply two to three inches of
mulch or use landscape fabric or black
plastic. Mulch not only blocks weed seeds
from sunlight so they do not germinate, but
also promotes better water retention,
provides needed nutrients as it decomposes
over time, and moderates soil temperatures.
If you mow or blow leaves in the fall, be
sure to get a shredder (like this one from
Echo) to turn those leaves into garden
mulch—and save yourself the costs of
buying bags of mulch.
3. Turn to tools.
A garden hoe, tiller or even hand-weeding
can work, especially if the space you’re
tending is fairly small. And keep your tools
(garden hoe, spade, mower, tiller) clean to
keep from spreading weed seeds or plant
parts that you encounter. Tillers like this one
from Echo is ideal for aerating soil and
keeping flower and plant beds weed-free,
turning what can be a difficult job into easy,
productive work.
4. Establish a perimeter.
Pay special attention to the area adjoining
your flower bed, garden, natural area or
lawn and establish a weed-free
perimeter. Mow or mulch the area or pull or
dig up weeds as they emerge. You’ll help to
reduce the number of new weed seeds in the
area you want to protect. Also, a good
trimmer (like this one from Echo) can make
it easier to reach weeds along garden beds,
posts, and tight spots.
5. Pay special attention to perennial
weeds.
When you deal with perennials, you need
dig up any roots, underground tubers and
rhizomes without leaving fragments
behind. New weeds can grow from any
pieces that break off and remain in the
soil. It does also help to cut off the emerged
green part of the weed with your hoe or
mower—repeating the process quickly each
time it regrows. Without leaves needed for
photosynthesis, the underground plant parts
will become weakened and
may eventually die.
With these techniques, you’ll soon find that
you won’t spend much time weeding the
following years!
13 COMMON WEEDS
Some of the below weeds are noxious and
invasive, while others have more
beneficial uses (and could even be
harvested), but all are rated as the most
troublesome weeds that compete with
vegetables, fruits, and
crops (source: WSSA).
1. BINDWEED (PERENNIAL
MORNING GLORY)
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Field bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis) is a

hardy perennial vine that has been given
many names, including perennial or wild
morning-glory, creeping jenny, sheepbine,
cornbind, and bellbine.
Bindweed is NOT the same as
the ornamental annual morning-glory (in the
genus Ipomea) which has a larger (2-inch
wide) and more showy flower that can be
white to blue or purple; it also has a thicker
stem that is sometimes hairy and heart-
shaped leaves that are 1 ½ inches wide and 2
inches or more long. The two species are
easy to distinguish from each other.
An invasive from Eurasia, field bindweed is
one of the most persistent and difficult to
control weeds. It spreads from an extensive
rootstock and from seed. And its roots are
found to depths of 14 feet! Lateral roots
becoming a secondary vertical root. A single
field bindweed plant can spread radially
more than 10 feet in a growing season. This
extensive underground network allows for
overwintering without foliage, and it can
persist for many years in the soil.
Bindweed sprouts in late spring and can be
seen throughout the summer. Though the
plant’s flowers are attractive, field bindweed
can become a big problem in warm weather,
when they spread ruthlessly.
 Formatted: Font: (Default) Times New Roman, 26 pt

Image: Bindweed seedling

Unfortunately, tilling and cultivation seems
to aide bindweed spread. Fragments of
vertical roots and rhizomes as short as 2
inches can form new plants! Field bindweed
also is very drought tolerant and once
established is difficult to control even
with herbicides.
The best control is, as with most weeds, is
prevention or early intervention. Seedlings
of field bindweed must be removed before
they become perennial plants. However, this
need to be done when they’re young—about
3 to 4 weeks after germination. After that,
perennial buds are formed, and successful
control is much more difficult.
Bindweed can grow through many mulches
so you need to use landscape fabrics such as
polypropylene and polyester or mulches
such as black plastic or cardboard but also
ensure that the edges of the covering overlap
so that the bindweed stems can’t find their
way into the light. If holes are made in the
fabric or plastic for plants, bindweed will
grow through these holes. A landscape
fabric placed over soil then covered with
bark or other plant-derived product (e.g.,
organic matter) or rock will likely keep field
bindweed from emerging. It might take
more than 3 years of light exclusion before
the bindweed dies. Once landscape fabric or
other mulch is removed, new bindweed
plants might germinate from seed in the soil;
be sure to monitor the site for new seedlings.
2. LAMBSQUARTERS
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Lambsquarters. Photo by Michigan

State University.
According to the Weed Science Society of
America (WSSA), lambsquarters ranks as
the most common weed in gardens.
Common lambsquarters is an annual
broadleaf weed that is widely distributed
across the northern half of the United States
and southern Canada. So it’s not surprising
that lambsquarters is a problem in gardens
with sugar beets, vegetable crops and pulse
crops, such as dry edible beans, lentils
and chickpeas.
Lambsquarters is a very fast-growing annual
with seeds that are small and light enough to
be blown by the wind over short distances
and can sometimes survive for decades in
the soil. Under favorable conditions, these
three weeds can establish themselves
quickly and spread profusely.
This summer weed rapidly removes
moisture from soil, so remove it as soon
as possible!
Cultivate this weed out of your garden using
a sharp hoe.
If you wish, you can eat lambsquarters
(assuming you’re not using chemicals). The
young shoots and leaves can be eaten raw in
any vegetable dish, or sauteed or steamed
like spinach. See our natural health
blogger’s post on Anytime Salad.
3. PIGWEED (AMARANTH)
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Image: Pigweed. Credit: United

Soybean Board.
Pigweed or Amaranth wins the title of most
“problematic” weed. Amaranth has evolved
traits that makes it a tough competitor,
especially in broadleaf crops like soybeans
and cotton.
An annual weed that reproduces by seeds,
pigweed is characterized by its fleshly, red
taproot. This weed appears in late spring or
early summer and likes warm weather.
Try to pull out this weed before it flowers!
To prevent pigweed in the future, cover your
garden plot with a winter mulch, then till the
garden shallowly in early spring. When you
till you may bring up some pigweed seed so
it’s best to mulch again. Cover the soil with
five layers of wet newspaper and cover that
with 3-6 inches of mulch.
Pigweed is also edible—though usually
only when young and tender, and when
taken from a pesticide-free area. In June,
the young leaves of Amaranthus blitum or
amaranth are abundant and should be eaten
because of their high nutritional content.
Vitamin-wise, these greens are packed like
carrots and beets and can be delicious in a
tossed salad. You can also cook them as you
would spinach. Native Americans used the
black seeds of this plant as a ground meal
for baking.
4. BUCKHORN PLANTAIN
 Formatted: Font: (Default) Times New Roman, 26 pt

Buckhorn plantain. Photo by Oregon

State University.
A hardy perennial that reproduces by seeds.
This narrow-leafed weed invades meadows,
pastures, and lawns. This weed appears in
any season.
Hand weed this plant and destroy it to
remove it from your garden.
Plantain’s also edible, especially when the
leaves are young and tender. Enjoy raw,
steamed, boiled, or sauteed.
5. CRABGRASS
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Crabgrass. Photo by R. Dyer/Bugwood.org

Crabgrass is a low-growing, summer annual
that spreads by seed and from rootings of
nodes that lie on the soil. Unmowed, it can
grow to 2 feet tall.
This weed appears from mid-spring through
summer when the ground is warm. It grows
well under dry, hot conditions.
As an annual, crabgrass dies at the end of
each growing season, usually at the first
frost in the fall, and it must produce new
seeds every year.
Fortunately, crabgrass is easy to manage.
Controlling crabgrass before it sets seed is
important, because the seeds can remain
viable for at least 3 years in soil.
In the lawn, mowing regularly is often all
you need to prevent them from flowering
and producing seed. Most experts
recommend that you mow your lawn to a
height of 2 to 4 inches and that you mow
frequently enough to keep it within
that range.
Also, if you keep a lawn, be sure to select
grass adapted to your location so it’s a
healthy, thick lawn. Because seedling
crabgrass isn’t very competitive, a
vigorously growing turf will crowd out new
seedlings. Perennial ryegrass is the best
competition for crabgrass. It also provides
some insect control, as it emits a natural
poison that gives some small, damaging
bugs the “flu.” Fertilizing is key and must be
done in the spring and in the fall. Crabgrass
thrives in compacted lawns, so aeration can
help. A mixture of 1 pint of hydrogen
peroxide, diluted to 3 percent, per 100
square feet of lawn can help eradicate the
pesky plant.
In gardens, you easily can control crabgrass
by mulching, hoeing, and hand pulling when
the plants are young and before they set
seed. You also can control this weed with
solarization. Several chemical herbicides are
available but often aren’t necessary.
Mulching with wood products (e.g. wood
chips or nuggets), composted yard waste, or
synthetic landscape fabrics covered with
mulch will reduce crabgrass in shrub beds
and bedding plants and around trees by
blocking sunlight needed for its germination,
establishment, and growth.
Organic mulches that have been on the soil
for a while decomposing can provide an
adequate growth medium for weeds to
germinate and grow in. If crabgrass is
germinating in the mulch, move it about
with a rake to reduce seedling establishment.
Hand pull escaped crabgrass plants before
they set seed
If you’re using herbicides, apply pre-
emergent herbicides before
crabgrass germinates or post-emergent
herbicides after it germinates. Avoid using
chemical herbicides in vegetable gardens
because of the variety of crops grown and
planted there.
6. QUACKGRASS
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Photo: Quackgrass in strawberry garden.

A creeping, persistent perennial grass that
reproduces by seeds. Its long, jointed, straw-
colored rhizomes form a heavy mat in soil,
from which new shoots may also appear.
Try to dig out this weed as soon as you see it
in your garden.
7. CHICKWEED
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Mouse-ear chickweed. Photo by Oregon

State University.
There are two species of
chickweed, common (Stellaria media) and
sticky (Cerastium glomeratum), which grow
easily in gardens, low-maintenance lawns,
and agricultural areas. Mouseear
chickweed (Cerastium
fontanum ssp. vulgare) is a perennial also
found in lawns.
When growing without competition from
other plants, common chickweed can
produce approximately 800 seeds and it
takes 7 to 8 years to eradicate.
Chickseed thrives in moist, cool areas so it
often gets started before spring crops can
become competitive and can limit
vegetable harvest.
Fortunately, annual chickweed is easier to
control as long as you control before it
flowers. This can be difficult due to the
short period between germination and
flower production so you need to keep an
eye out for this weed. Both types have
shallow roots, so they can often be removed
by hoeing or hand-pulling if done early. It is
most effective if the soil is dry and plants
are small.
New plants can grow from broken pieces of
mouse-ear rootstock, however, so make sure
you remove the entire plant when using
either method. Herbicides should only
avoided in the vegetable garden.
Using an organic mulch such as wood chips,
at least two inches deep, will reduce the
amount of weed seeds germinating by
limiting light and serving as a physical
barrier. Synthetic mulches such as landscape
fabrics may also be used. In landscaped
areas, they should be covered with an
additional layer of mulch (rock or bark).
Vegetable gardens also can utilize black
plastic, both as mulch into which seeds or
transplants are placed and also
between rows.
A healthy lawn can compete against mouse-
ear chickweed if the grass is not mowed too
short or too frequently. Watering the lawn
deeply and infrequently will encourage the
grass to grow deeper roots, which also can
help it compete against chickweed. Water
once every seven to ten days, and apply
enough water so that it soaks six to eight
inches into the ground.
Chickweed is also edible. When young, the
leaves, stems, and flowers can all be eaten
either raw or cooked, where it adds a
delicate spinach-like taste to any dish.
8. DANDELION
Ah, we love much about dandelions with
their bright yellow heads in the springtime.
They provide a lovely source of food for
bees early in the year, and the jagged leaves
of this perennial (Taraxacum officinale) are
even edible, especially when young and
tender. The flowers, too, can be eaten raw or
fried, or used to make dandelion wine! Here
are a few dandelion
recipes: Dandelion Recipes
Formatted: Font: (Default) Times New Roman, 26 pt

In time, however, dandelions will also take

over any habitat from your garden to your
ornamentals to your grasses. They have the
most weedy characteristics of all the weeds.
Not only do dandelions have wind-borne
seed but also reproduce vegetatively thanks
to large tap roots. So unless you cut the root
deep into the soil, you can rest assured the
plant will reemerge.
Removing dandelions by hand-pulling or
hoeing is often futile, unless done repeatedly
over a long period of time, because of the
deep tap root system of established plants.
But if you have a small area, pull young
dandelions by grasping them firmly by their
base and wiggling gently, as you must
dislodge their deep taproot from the
soil. Alternatively, use a hand trowel to dig
them out. Try to remove the whole
dandelion root at once, as any piece left in
the ground will probably grow back.
If you keep a lawn, a vigorous (and
competitive) lawn will slow down dandelion
infestation. Dense turfgrass and ornamentals
shade the soil surface, reducing the
establishment of new dandelion seedlings.
Many broadleaf weeds may be controlled
with mowing but this is NOTtrue of
dandelion. Because it grows from a basal
rosette that is lower than a mower blade can
reach, mowing will have no effect
on control.
For a garden bed, mulches of wood chips
or bark are effective if they are maintained
at a depth of least 3 inches deep (and
replaced over time). Mulching with
landscape fabrics can be particularly
effective for controlling seedlings, reducing
the amount of light that is able to reach the
soil. Use a polypropylene or polyester fabric
or black polyethylene (plastic tarp) to block
all plant growth.
Solitary new dandelion plants along fence
rows, roadsides, flower beds, and in
turfgrass should be grubbed out (removed by
digging out the entire plant, taproot and all)
before they produce seed. Dandelion knives
and similar specialized tools are available
for removing individual weeds and their
roots while minimizing soil disturbance.
Monitor the area for several months to make
sure that removal of the taproot
was complete.
If you’re using herbicides, consider pre-
emergence herbicides such as those
containing dithiopyr or isoxaben because
they are applied to the soil BEFORE the
seeds germinate.
9. PURSLANE
 Formatted: Font: (Default) Times New Roman, 26 pt

Purslane is an annual succulent that

reproduces by tiny black seeds and stem
fragments. This weed appears in late spring
or early summer and likes warm weather,
fertile soil and moist garden beds.
Purslane produces over 2,000,000
seeds PER PLANT! Wow. Purslane also can
reproduce vegetatively through its succulent
leaves, making it especially tough to
eradicate. Many a gardener hoed purslane
one day only to see it growing at full
strength the next.
The primary method of management for
common purslane is prevention. In home
landscapes and gardens, this weed is
generally managed by hand-weeding. Pull
out this weed as soon as you see it and
destroy the plant; this weed can live in your
soil for years!
Young purslane is edible, too! It’s a
nutritional powerhouse and a great
addition to a salad or stir-fry. See purslane’s
health benefits and find a recipe here.
Mulching is also helpful, especially in
garden beds. To be effective, organic
mulches should be at least 3 inches thick.
Synthetic mulches (plastic or fabric mulch)
which screen out light and provide a
physical barrier to seedling development,
also work well. Fabric mulches, which are
porous and allow flow of water and air to
roots, are preferred over plastics.
Combinations of synthetic mulches with
organic or rock mulches on top are
commonly used in ornamental plantings.
10. SHEPHERD’S PURSE
 Formatted: Font: (Default) Times New Roman, 26 pt

Shepherd’s Purse. Photo by

Oregon State University.
A flowering annual that reproduces by
seeds. It likes cool weather and its
yellowish-brown seeds are long-lived in
the ground.
Try to pull out this weed before it seeds.
11. NUTSEDGE (YELLOW, PURPLE)
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Image: Yelllow Nutsedge

Nutsedges are perennial weeds that
superficially resemble grasses, but they are
thicker and stiffer and V-shaped. Their
leaves are arranged in sets of three from
their base instead of sets of two as you
would find in grass leaves. They are among
the most problematic weeds for vegetable
crops and can greatly reduce harvest
yields. Yellow nutsedge has light brown
flowers and seeds, while purple nutsedge
flowers have a reddish tinge and the seeds
are dark brown or black.
If you have nutsedge, it’s often an indicated
that your soil drainage is poor
or waterlogged. However, once nutsedge is
established, it’s very difficult to control.
The best approach is to prevent
establishment of the weed in the first place.
Remove small plants before they develop
tubers. Tubers are key to nutsedge survival.
If you can limit production of tubers, you’ll
eventually control the nutsedge itself. Most
herbicides aren’t effective against tubers.
Also, eliminate the wet conditions that favor
nutsedge growth. Use mulches in landscape
beds. Landscape fabrics are the best mulch
because the sharp leaves of nutsedge can
pierce other mulches.
12. CANADA THISTLE
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Canada thistle (Cirsium arvense) is an

aggressive, creeping perennial weed from
Eurasia. It infests crops, pastures, and non-
crop areas like ditch banks and
roadside. Canada thistle reduces forage
consumption in pastures and rangeland
because cattle typically will not graze
near infestations.
Introduced perennial from Eurasia.
Reproduces by seeds and whitish, creeping
rootstocks which send up new shoots every
8 to 12 inches. Plants 2 to 4 feet tall, It is a
colony-forming weed, reproducing asexually
from rhizomatous roots (any part of the root
system may give rise to new plants) or
sexually from wind-blown seed. The plant
emerges from its roots in mid- to late spring
and forms rosettes.
Then, it will send up shoots every 8 to 12
inches. The plants will grow 2 to 4 feet
tall. You may spots its purple flowers are
produced in July and August.
Canada Thistle is difficult to control because
its extensive and deep root system allows it
to recover from control attempts. Horizontal
roots may extend 15 feet or more and
vertical roots may grow 6 to 15 feet
deep! Seeds may retain viability 4+ years in
the soil.
The first plants need to be destroyed by
pulling or hoeing before they become
securely rooted. Look for Canada Thistle
above ground in early spring.
If Canada Thistle becomes rooted, the best
control is to stress the plant and force it to
use stored root nutrients. It’s at its weakest
during the flowering stage in summertime;
this is a good time to begin cultivation and
destroy the roots and rootstock. One season
of cultivation followed by a season of
growing competitive crops such as winter
rye, will go a long way toward eradication.
An approved herbicide, applied for two
years in an established in a thistle-infested
area, is an effective control. Usually, a
combination of techniques is
needed. Consult with your cooperative
extension office for an approved herbicide
and suggested program.
13. CREEPING CHARLIE
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Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea),

also called “ground ivy,” is a herbaceous
perennial plant that enjoys moist and shady
areas. Native to Europe, it has become an
invasive lawn weed in North America. The
plant has bright green leaves with scalloped
edges on creeping stems that root at the
nodes. It tends to form a dense mat over
the ground.
The reason Creeping Charlie is so
challenging is the way it spreads—by both
seeds and by creeping stems (called stolons)
that grow along the ground. If you try to dig
it out and leave behind a fragment of
rhizome (root), even a tiny piece can grow
up as a new plant!
To control, improve soil drainage or water
less frequently to dry the soil. If Creeping
Charlie is invading a thin lawn, try to
improve turf health and density to get weeds
under control. This can be accomplished by
mowing regularly (to a height of two to
three and one-half inches), fertilizing and
watering appropriately, and overseeding in
the fall. Also, make sure to grow the most
suitable type of turfgrass for the location
(e.g., plant shade tolerant turfgrass varieties
under trees).
Alternatively, consider removing grass and
growing shade-loving plants such as vinca,
English ivy, pachysandra, or hosta that
compete well with weeds (though they can
also become weeds themselves, so plant at
your own risk!). In areas where Creeping
Charlie has become established, try
removing plants by hand. This is the control
method of choice in vegetable or flower
gardens. Try to pull the weed without
breaking it and over time it may give up.
However, this may not be a viable option in
heavily infested areas, as the extensive
spreading stems of creeping Charlie can be
difficult to completely remove. If you have
mats of weed, smother with newspaper or
tarp. Once plants are pulled, make sure to
dispose of the plants in such a way that they
cannot re-root.
Borax, once used for organic control, is not
recommended for creeping Charlie (or other
broadleaf weed) control. It does not provide
long-term control of creeping Charlie, and
can injure turf and other plants, causing
stunting and yellowing.
Often, herbicide applications are a necessary
last resort. Consult your local garden center
or cooperative extension for the appropriate
herbicides in your local area.
MORE ON WEEDING
To learn more about combating common
garden weeds, see Weed Control
Techniques, as well as our mulching guide.
SOURCE:
The Old Farmer's Almanac
RELATED ARTICLES
 GARDENING
 GARDENING HELP
 WEEDS
TAGS
 LAMBSQUARTER
 PURSLANE
 MORNING GLORY
 CRABGRASS
 DANDELION

So, what are the benefits of weeds?

1. Some lawn and garden weeds
bring nutrients and water up from
deep in the soil and down from the
air, and subsequently make them
available to microbes and plants.
2. Some weeds break up hardpans
and compaction, and control erosion.
3. Another benefit of weeds is that
they increase the organic matter
content of the soil as they continually
grow and die. That’s one reason to
let them cycle through the lawn.
4. Garden weeds also act as our
own diagnostic tool by telling us a
tremendous amount about the
nutritional balance of our soil through
their presence and growth habit.
5. They also fix nutritional
imbalances, vastly improving soils,
perhaps in as little as a couple of
years, but often decades or
centuries.
6. One of my favorite benefits of
weeds is that they provide homes
and food for microbes and animals.
(If you get a chance, check out the
 documentary Microcosms. She will
post a link on facebook…it’s a very
CLOSE-UP account of insects’ lives
on plants in meadows and ponds,
beautiful!)
That’s just a few things weeds do in the
lawn and garden. Having said this, if you
simply can’t live with them in the lawn,
which I understand, it is possible to
control most of them and still have a
happy garden.
That involves creating a healthy,
balanced soil with strong turf plants
(which I cover in the Academy) so that
the weeds can’t thrive.
But you can also see why the benefits of
weeds makes them good to keep
around. Besides, many of them can be
added to salads for a healthy boost.
Damages caused by Weeds
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Damages caused by weeds
Weeds are harmful in many ways. The
damages caused by them are as under:
1. Reduction in crop yield:- Weeds
compete with crops for water, nutrients
and light. Being hardy and vigorous in
growth habit, they grow faster then
crops and consume large amount of
water and nutrients, thus causing heavy
losses in yields.
2. Increase in the cost of cultivation:-
Tillage operations are done to control
weeds and it is generally estimated that
on an average about 30 percent of the
total expenditure for crop production is
on tillage operations and more labour is
employed for weeding. This results in
increasing cost of cultivation and
reducing the margin of net profit. 3. The
quality of field produce is reduced:-
When the crop is harvested from a
weedy field the seeds of weeds get
mixed with the main crop which results
in lowering the quality of the produce
.e.g. seeds of weeds in wheat, gram etc.
Similarly, bundles of many leafy
vegetables like methi or palak contain
green plants of weeds. They fetch lower
prices in the market. 4. The quality of
the livestock products is reduced.
Certain weeds eg. Hulhul when eaten by
milch cattle impart an undesirable
flavour to milk. Similarly weeds like
gokhru get attached to the body of the
sheep and impair the quality of wool.
Certain poisonous weeds like Datura
may cause death of cattle if they are
unknowingly eaten by cattle. 5. Weeds
harbour insect, pests and diseases:-
Weeds either give shelter to various
insects, pests and diseases or serve as
alternate hosts. 6. Weeds check the flow
of water:- Weeds block drainage and
check the flow of water in irrigation
channels and field channels thereby
increasing the seepage losses as well
as losses through overflowing. The
irrigation efficiency is also reduced. 7.
Weed secretions are harmful:- Heavy
growth of certain weeds like quack
grass or motha lower the germination
and reduce the growth of many crop
plants. This is said to be due to the
presence of certain phytotoxins in these
weeds. 8. Weeds are harmful to human
beings:- certain weeds cause irritation of
skin, allergy and poisoning in human
beings. 9. Weeds cause quicker wear
and tear of farm implements; they get
worn out early and cannot work
efficiently unless they are properly
sharpened or mended. 10. Weeds
reduce the value of the land:-
Agricultural lands which are heavily
infested with perennial weeds like kans
always fetch less price, because such
lands can not be brought under
cultivation without incurring heavy
expenditure on labour and machinery.
Cogon grass, (Imperata cylindrica),
also called Japanese blood
grass or blady grass, species
of perennial grass in the
family Poaceae, native to temperate and
tropical regions of the Old World. Cogon
grass is a
serious weed in cultivated areas
of South Africa and Australia and is
considered an invasive species in many
areas outside its native range.
Some cultivars are grown as
ornamentals, and the plant is commonly
used for erosion control.
 cogon grassCogon grass (Imperata
cylindrica).Jim Hood
Cogon grass grows 0.6–3 metres (2–10
feet) tall and has roots that can reach
more than 1 metre (3.3 feet) long. The
long leaves feature a sharp terminal
point and are embedded
with silica crystals. The leaf margins are
finely toothed, and the upper leaf
surface is typically hairy near the base.
The small wind-pollinated flowers are
borne in a thin cluster, and each spikelet
bears many long silky hairs.

Common Locations for Cogon Grass

Cogon grass is found on roadsides,
mining sites, borrow pits, and other
areas of soil disturbance, and is able to
invade moist to dry upland pine sites,
Following initial invasion, cogon grass
often forms dense, field-like
monocultures.
Cogon grass spreads readily on
disturbed sites and through movement
of soil contaminated with small pieces of
rhizome or seed (often due to site
disturbance in timber harvest, site
preparation, road grading, use of
contaminated fill dirt, etc.). Cogon grass
infestations can reduce pine survival
and growth, and in fire situations, may
result in complete mortality of overstory
trees due to flammable oils in the grass
blades raising the intensity and severity
of prescribed burns. Over time cogon
grass may significantly impact
management and productivity of pines
on infested sites.