Part No. 92801SL, Rev.

Service Manual

Groundsmaster 300 Series ®

Groundsmaster 328-D
Preface
Use this book along with the Toro Operator’s Manual and Parts Catalog for the specific model and serial
number of the machine, and the Kubota 05 Series Workshop Manual.

This publication will provide the service technician with

information for troubleshooting, testing, and repair of
major systems and components on the Groundsmaster
345, 322-D and 325-D (Model 30788 and 30795).
This safety symbol means DANGER, WARN-
REFER TO THE TRACTION UNIT AND CUTTING ING, or CAUTION, PERSONAL SAFETY IN-
UNIT OPERATOR’S MANUALS FOR OPERATION, STRUCTION. When you see this symbol,
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT INSTRUC- carefully read the instructions that follow.
TIONS. Space is provided in Chapter 2 of this book to Failure to obey the instructions may result in
insert the Operator’s Manuals and Parts Catalogs for personal injury.
your machine. Replacement Operator’s Manuals are
available by sending complete Model and Serial Num­
ber of traction unit and cutting unit to: NOTE: A NOTE will give general information about the
correct operation, maintenance, service, testing or re­
The Toro Company pair of the machine.
8111 Lyndale Avenue South
Minneapolis, MN 55420 IMPORTANT: The IMPORTANT notice will give im-
portant instructions which must be followed to pre-
The Toro Company reserves the right to change product vent damage to systems or components on the
specifications or this publication without notice. machine.

© The Toro Company - 1992, 1996, 1998, 2001, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2007

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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine
 Table Of Contents

Chapter 1 - Safety Chapter 6 - Electrical System

Safety Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 - 1 Wiring Schematics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 - 2

Special Tools. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 - 3
Chapter 2 - Product Records and Manuals Troubleshooting (Groundsmaster 345) . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 - 6
Troubleshooting (Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D) . . . . . 6 - 12
Product Records. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-1 Testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 - 18
Equivalents and Conversions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-2 Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 - 30
Torque Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-3
Maintenance Interval Charts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-4 Chapter 6A - Electrical System (S/N 21000000 & Up)
Equipment Operational and
Service Historical Report Record Wiring Schematics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 - 1
Special Tools. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 - 2
Chapter 3 - Ford VSG-411 Gasoline Engine Electrical System Quick ChecksT. . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 - 3
Component Identification and Testing. . . . . . . . . . 6 - 4
Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 - 1 Service and Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 - 12
General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 - 2
Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 - 3 Chapter 7 - Differential Axle
Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 - 6
FORD VSG-411/413 ENGINE SERVICE MANUAL Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 - 1
Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 - 2
Chapter 4 - Mitsubishi K3D Diesel Engine Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 - 3

Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 - 2 Chapter 8 - Steering and Brakes

Specificationis. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 - 3
Special Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 - 11 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 - 1
Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 - 13 Schematics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 - 3
Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 - 15 Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 - 4
Testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 - 18 Special Tools. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 - 4
Preparation for Engine Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 - 25 Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 - 5
External Engine Component Repair . . . . . . . . . . 4 - 26 Testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 - 7
Fuel System Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 - 34 Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 - 9
Removing and Installing the Engine . . . . . . . . . . 4 - 46 Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 - 11
Cylinder Head Overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 - 47
Cylinder Block Overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 - 53 Chapter 9 - Transmission Coupler and PTO

Chapter 4A - Kubota Diesel Engine Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9-2

Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9-3
General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 - 2 Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9-4
Specificationis. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 - 3 Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9-7

Chapter 5 - Hydraulic System Chapter 10 - 4WD Rear Axle

(GM322-D or GM325-D with Inasaka axle)
Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 - 2
General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 - 3 Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 - 2
Hydraulic Schematics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 - 6 General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 - 3
Hydraulic Flow Diagrams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 - 7 Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 - 4
Special Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 - 10 Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 - 5
Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 - 12
Testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 - 18 Chapter 10.1 - 4WD Rear Axle
Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 - 22 (GM325-D or GM328-D with Dae Dong axle)
Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 - 26
Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 - 2
Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 - 3
Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 - 4

Groundsmaster ® 300 Series

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 Chapter 11 - 72″ Cutting Units

Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 - 2
General Information. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 - 3
Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 - 4
Adjustments. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 - 5
Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 - 8

Chapter 12 - Triflex® 88″ Cutting Unit

Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 - 2
General Information. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 - 3
Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 - 4
Adjustments. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 - 5
Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 - 13

Chapter 13 - Guardian® 72″ Recycler® Cutting Unit

Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 - 2
Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 - 3
Adjustments. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 - 4
Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 - 7

Groundsmaster ® 300 Series

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 Chapter 1

Safety
SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 While Doing Maintenance, Troubleshooting,
Before Operating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Testing, Adjustments or Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
While Operating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Safety Instructions
The Groundsmaster 300 Series was tested and certified
by TORO for compliance with the B71.4 1984 specifica-
tions of the American National Standards Institute. Al-
though hazard control and accident prevention partially CAUTION
are dependent upon the design and configuration of the Improper operation, maintenance, trou-
machine, these factors are also dependent upon the bleshooting, testing, adjustments or repairs
awareness, concern, and proper training of the person- of the machine can result in injury or death.
nel involved in the operation, transport, maintenance, To reduce the potential for injury or death,
and storage of the machine. comply with the following safety instructions.

Before Operating
1. Read and understand the Operator’s Manual before 6. Do not wear loose fitting clothing because it could get
starting and operating the machine. Become familiar caught in moving parts. Always wear long pants and
with all controls and know how to stop quickly. A replace- substantial shoes. Wearing safety glasses, safety
ment manual is available by sending complete Model shoes, and a helmet is advisable and required by some
and Serial Numbers to: local ordinances and insurance regulations.

The Toro Company 7. Be sure interlock switches are adjusted correctly so

8111 Lyndale Avenue South engine cannot be started unless traction pedal is re-
Minneapolis, Minnesota 55420 leased to neutral position and PTO lever is in OFF
position.
2. Never allow children to operate the machine. Do not
allow adults to operate the machine without proper 8. Grass deflectors must be installed in lowest position
instruction. Only trained operators, skilled in slope op- on side discharge cutting units and properly attached to
eration and who have read the Operator’s Manual Triflex ® cutting unit wings.
should operate this machine.
9. Fill fuel tank with the proper fuel before starting the
3. Never operate machine when under the influence of engine. Avoid spilling any fuel. Since fuel is very flam-
drugs or alcohol. mable, handle it carefully.

4. Remove all debris or other objects that might be A. Use an approved fuel container.
picked up and thrown by cutter blades or fast moving
components from other attached implements. Keep all B. Do not fill fuel tank when engine is hot or running.
bystanders away from the operating area.
C. Do not smoke while handling fuel.
5. Keep all shields and safety devices in place. If a
shield, safety device, or decal is defective or damaged, D. Fill fuel tank outdoors and up to about one inch
repair or replace it before operating the machine. Also, (25 mm) from the top of the tank, not the filler neck.
tighten any loose nuts, bolts, and screws to make sure
machine is in safe operating condition. E. Wipe up any spilled fuel.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 1 - 1 Safety Instructions

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 10. Sit on the seat when starting the engine and oper- If movement is evident, the neutral return mecha-
ating the machine. nism is adjusted incorrectly. Shut engine off and
adjust until machine does not move when traction
11. On machines equipped with roll-over protection pedal is released.
(ROPS), always use seat belt and ROPS together.
Make sure seat pivot retaining pin is installed. 13. Do not run the engine in a confined area without
adequate ventilation. Exhaust fumes are hazardous and
12. Before starting the engine: could possibly be deadly.

A. Engage parking brake, 14. Maximum seating capacity is one person. Therefore,
never carry passengers.
B. Make sure traction pedal is in neutral and PTO is
in OFF (disengage) position. 15. Check carefully for overhead clearances before
driving under any objects.
C. After engine is started, release parking brake and
keep foot off traction pedal. Machine must not move.

While Operating
16. Using the machine demands the operator’s com- 21. The grass deflector(s) must always be installed and
plete attention. To prevent loss of control: in lowest position on the cutting unit. This product is
designed to drive objects into the ground where they
A. Operate only in daylight or when there is good lose energy quickly in grassy areas. However, don’t take
artificial light. an injury risk!! When a person or pet appears unexpect-
edly in or near the mowing area, STOP MOWING.
B. Drive slowly. Careless operation, combined with terrain angles, rico-
chets, or improperly positioned guards, can lead to
C. Avoid sudden stops and starts. thrown object injuries. Do not resume mowing until area
is cleared.
D. Look behind machine before backing up.
22. Never raise the cutting unit or other attached imple-
E. Watch for holes or other hidden hazards. ment while the blades or other parts are rotating.

F. Do not drive close to a sand trap, ditch, creek, or 23. If cutting blades or other implement components
hazard. strike a solid object or the machine vibrates abnormally,
disengage PTO, move throttle to SLOW, set parking
G. Reduce speed when making sharp turns and brake, and shut engine off. Remove key from switch to
when turning on a hillside prevent possibility of accidental starting. Check cutting
unit or other implement and traction unit for damage and
H. The cutting deck must be lowered when going defective parts. Repair any damage before restarting
down slopes for steering control. the engine and operating the implement or cutting unit.
Assure cutting unit blades are in good condition and
17. To maintain machine control, 35 lb. of weight must blade bolts are torqued to proper specifications (See
be mounted on rear of traction unit before using the Cutting Unit Operator’s Manual).
Triflex 88" cutting unit. More weight may be required in
some steeper slope conditions. 24. To stop machine, remove foot from traction pedal
and use brakes. Gradually reversing the traction pedal
18. Operator must be skilled and trained in how to drive can provide additional braking.
on hillsides. Failure to use caution on slopes or hills may
cause loss of control and vehicle to tip or roll possibly 25. Do not touch engine, muffler, or radiator while engine
resulting in personal injury or death. is running or soon after it has stopped. These areas
could be hot enough to cause a burn.
19. Traverse slopes carefully. Do not start or stop sud-
denly when traversing slopes or when traveling uphill or 26. Lower the cutting unit or other attached implement
downhill. to the ground and remove key from switch whenever
machine is left unattended.
20. If engine stalls or machine loses headway and
cannot make it to the top of a slope, do not turn machine
around. Always back slowly straight down the slope.

Safety Instructions Page 1 - 2 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 27. Before getting off the seat: B. Set the parking brake and disengage the PTO.

A. Move traction pedal to neutral position and re- C. Shut the engine off and remove key from ignition
move foot from pedal. switch. Wait for all movement to stop before getting
off the seat.

While Doing Maintenance, Troubleshooting, Testing, Adjustments or Repairs

28. Remove key from ignition switch to prevent acciden- 34. If machine is equipped with roll-over protection
tal starting of the engine when servicing, adjusting, or (ROPS), periodically inspect the roll bar and roll bar
storing the machine. mounting. Repair as necessary. Do not weld, cut, drill,
or modify roll bar in any manner.
29. Make sure you understand a service procedure
before working on the machine. Unauthorized modifica- 35. Make sure all hydraulic line connectors are tight, and
tions to the machine may impair the function, safety and all hydraulic hoses and lines are in good condition
life of the machine. If major repairs are ever needed or before applying pressure to the system.
assistance is desired, contact an Authorized TORO
Distributor. 36. Keep body and hands away from pin hole leaks or
nozzles that eject hydraulic fluid under high pressure.
30. To reduce potential fire hazard, keep the engine free Use paper or cardboard, not hands, to search for leaks.
of excessive grease, grass, leaves, and accumulations Hydraulic fluid escaping under pressure can have suffi-
of dirt. Clean protective screen on front of engine fre- cient force to penetrate skin and do serious damage. If
quently. When cleaning parts, do not use flammable fluid is ejected into the skin, it must be surgically re-
solvents, such as diesel fuel, kerosene or gasoline. moved within a few hours by a doctor familiar with this
form of injury or gangrene may result.
31. THE ASBESTOS BRAKE LININGS CONTAIN ASBES-
TOS FIBERS. BREATHING ASBESTOS DUST MAY BE HAZ- 37. Before disconnecting or performing any work on the
ARDOUS TO YOUR HEALTH AND MAY CAUSE SERIOUS hydraulic system, all pressure in system must be re-
RESPIRATORY OR OTHER BODILY HARM. For your pro- lieved by stopping engine and lowering implement to the
tection: ground.

A. AVOID CREATING DUST. 38. If the engine must be running to perform mainte-
nance or an adjustment, keep clear of PTO shaft, cutting
B. Do not remove brake drum without proper unit blades, and other moving parts.
equipment.
39. Do not over-speed the engine by changing the
C. Do not work on brake linings without proper governor settings. To ensure safety and accuracy, have
protective equipment. an Authorized TORO Distributor check maximum en-
gine speed with a tachometer.
D. Do not replace brake linings without proper pro-
tective equipment. 40. Engine must be shut off before checking oil or
adding oil to the crankcase.
E. Do not attempt to sand, grind, chisel, file, hammer,
or alter brake linings in any manner without proper 41. Disconnect the cables from the battery before serv-
protective equipment. icing the machine. If battery voltage is required for
troubleshooting or test procedures, temporarily connect
F. Follow O.S.H.A standards for proper protective the battery.
devices to be used when working with asbestos
materials. 42. Do not charge a frozen battery because it can
explode and cause injury. Let the battery warm to 60° F
32. If the cutting unit discharge area ever plugs, disen- (15.5° C) before connecting to a charger. Charge the
gage PTO and shut engine off before removing the battery in a well-ventilated place so that gases produced
obstruction. while charging can dissipate. Since the gasses are
explosive, keep open flame and electrical spark away
33. Make sure machine is in safe operating condition by from the battery; do not smoke. Nausea may result if the
keeping nuts, bolts, and screws tight. Check all cutting gases are inhaled. Unplug the charger from the electri-
unit blade mounting bolts frequently to assure they are cal outlet before connecting or disconnecting the
torqued to proper specifications (See Cutting Unit Op- charger leads from the battery posts.
erator’s Manual).

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 1 - 3 Safety Instructions

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 43. Wear safety glasses, goggles or a face shield to use jack stands to safely support the machine when it
prevent possible eye injury when using compressed air is raised by a jack or hoist.
for cleaning or drying components.
46. At the time of manufacture, the machine conformed
44. Failure to follow proper procedures when mounting to safety standards in effect for riding mowers. To ensure
a tire on a wheel or rim can produce an explosion which optimum performance and continued safety certification
may result in serious injury. Do not attempt to mount a of the machine, use genuine TORO replacement parts
tire unless you have the proper equipment and experi- and accessories. Replacement parts and accessories
ence to perform the job. Have it done by your Toro made by other manufacturers may result in non confor-
Distributor or a qualified tire service. mance with the safety standards, and the warranty may
be voided.
45. When changing attachments or performing other
service, use the correct blocks, hoists and jacks. Always

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 Chapter 2

Product Records and Manuals

Table of Contents
PRODUCT RECORD FORM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
EQUIVALENTS AND CONVERSIONS . . . . . . . . . . 2 Capscrew Markings and Torque Values - U.S. . . 3
Decimal and Millimeter Equivalents . . . . . . . . . . 2 Capscrew Markings and Torque Values - Metric . 3
U.S. to Metric Conversions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 EQUIPMENT OPERATION
AND SERVICE HISTORY REPORT FORM

Product Records
Record information about your Groundsmaster 345, Insert Operator’s Manuals and Parts Manuals for your
322-D or 325-D on the Equipment Operation and Serv- Groundsmaster 345, 322-D or 325-D at the end of this
ice History Report Form. Use this information when section.
referring to your machine.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 2 - 1 Rev. A Product Records

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 Equivalents and Conversions
Decimal and Millimeter Equivalents
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
Fractions Decimals mm Fractions Decimals mm
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
1/64 0.015625 — 0.397 33/64 0.515625 — 13.097
1/32 ––––– 0.03125 — 0.794 17/32 –––– 0.53125 — 13.494
3/64 0.046875 — 1.191 35/64 0.546875 — 13.891
1/16 –––––––––––– 0.0625 — 1.588 9/16 –––––––––––– 0.5625 — 14.288
5/64 0.078125 — 1.984 37/64 0.578125 — 14.684
3/32 ––––– 0.9375 — 2.381 19/32 –––– 0.59375 — 15.081
7/64 0.109275 — 2.778 39/64 0.609375 — 15.478
1/8 ––––––––––––– 0.1250 — 3.175 5/8 ––––––––––––– 0.6250 — 15.875
9/64 0.140625 — 3.572 41/64 0.640625 — 16.272
5/32 ––––– 0.15625 — 3.969 21/32 –––– 0.65625 — 16.669
11/64 0.171875 — 4.366 43/64 0.671875 — 17.066
3/16 –––––––––––– 0.1875 — 4.762 11/16 ––––––––––– 0.6875 — 17.462
13/64 0.203125 — 5.159 45/64 0.703125 — 17.859
7/32 ––––– 0.21875 — 5.556 23/32 –––– 0.71875 — 18.256
15/64 0.234375 — 5.953 47/64 0.734375 — 18.653
1/4 ––––––––––––– 0.2500 — 6.350 3/4 ––––––––––––– 0.7500 — 19.050
17/64 0.265625 — 6.747 49/64 0.765625 — 19.447
9/32 ––––– 0.28125 — 7.144 25/32 –––– 0.78125 — 19.844
19/64 0.296875 — 7.541 51/64 0.796875 — 20.241
5/16 –––––––––––– 0.3125 — 7.938 13/16 ––––––––––– 0.8125 — 20.638
21/64 0.328125 — 8.334 53/64 0.828125 — 21.034
11/32 –––– 0.34375 — 8.731 27/32 –––– 0.84375 — 21.431
23/64 0.359375 — 9.128 55/64 0.859375 — 21.828
3/8 ––––––––––––– 0.3750 — 9.525 7/8 ––––––––––––– 0.8750 — 22.225
25/64 0.390625 — 9.922 57/64 0.890625 — 22.622
13/32 –––– 0.40625 — 10.319 29/32 –––– 0.90625 — 23.019
27/64 0.421875 — 10.716 59/64 0.921875 — 23.416
7/16 –––––––––––– 0.4375 — 11.112 15/16 ––––––––––– 0.9375 — 23.812
29/64 0.453125 — 11.509 61/64 0.953125 — 24.209
15/32 –––– 0.46875 — 11.906 31/32 –––– 0.96875 — 24.606
31/64 0.484375 — 12.303 63/64 0.984375 — 25.003
1/2 ––––––––––––– 0.5000 — 12.700 1 –––––––––––––– 1.000 — 25.400
1 mm = 0.03937 in. 0.001 in. = 0.0254 mm
___________________________________________________________________________________________________

U.S to Metric Conversions

___________________________________________________________________________________________________
To Convert Into Multiply By
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
Linear Miles Kilometers 1.609
Measurement Yards Meters 0.9144
Feet Meters 0.3048
Feet Centimeters 30.48
Inches Meters 0.0254
Inches Centimeters 2.54
Inches Millimeters 25.4
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
Area Square Miles Square Kilometers 2.59
Square Feet Square Meters 0.0929
Square Inches Square Centimeters 6.452
Acre Hectare 0.4047
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
Volume Cubic Yards Cubic Meters 0.7646
Cubic Feet Cubic Meters 0.02832
Cubic Inches Cubic Centimeters 16.39
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
Weight Tons (Short) Metric Tons 0.9078
Pounds Kilograms 0.4536
Ounces (Avdp.) Grams 28.3495
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
Pressure Pounds/Sq. In. Kilopascal 6.895
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
Work Foot-pounds Newton-Meters 1.356
Foot-pounds Kilogram-Meters 0.1383
Inch-pounds Kilogram-Centimeters 1.152144
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
Liquid Volume Quarts Liters 0.9463
Gallons Liters 3.785
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
Liquid Flow Gallons/Minute Liters/Minute 3.785
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
Temperature Fahrenheit Celsius 1. Subract 32o
2. Multiply by 5/9
___________________________________________________________________________________________________

Equivalents and Conversions Page 2 - 2 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Torque Specifications
Use these torque values when specific torque values specified values. Torque values listed are for lubricated
are not given. DO NOT use these values in place of threads. Plated threads are considered to be lubricated.

Capscrew Markings and Torque Values - U.S. Customary

SAE Grade Number 5 8
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Capscrew Head Markings

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Capscrew Torque - Grade 5 Capscrew Torque - Grade 8
Capscrew Body Size Cast Iron Aluminum Cast Iron Aluminum
ft-lb Nm ft-lb Nm ft-lb Nm ft-lb Nm
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
1/4-20 7 9 6 8 11 15 9 12
-28 9 12 7 9 13 18 10 14
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
5/16-18 15 20 12 16 22 30 18 24
-24 17 23 14 19 24 33 19 25
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
3/8-16 30 40 20 25 40 55 30 40
-24 30 40 25 35 45 60 35 45
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
7/16-14 45 60 35 45 65 90 50 65
-20 50 65 40 55 70 95 55 75
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
1/2-13 70 95 55 75 95 130 75 100
-20 75 100 60 80 110 150 90 120
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
9/16-12 100 135 80 110 140 190 110 150
-18 110 150 85 115 155 210 125 170
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
5/8-11 135 180 110 150 190 255 150 205
-18 155 210 120 160 215 290 170 230
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
3/4-10 240 325 190 255 340 460 270 365
-16 270 365 210 285 380 515 300 410
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
7/8-9 360 490 280 380 550 745 440 600
-14 390 530 310 420 610 825 490 660
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
1-8 530 720 420 570 820 1100 660 890
-14 590 800 480 650 890 1200 710 960

Capscrew Markings and Torque Values – Metric

Commercial Steel Class 8.8 10.9 12.9
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Capscrew Head Markings

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Thread Capscrew Torque - Class 8.8 Capscrew Torque - Class 10.9 Capscrew Torque - Class 12.9
Diameter Cast Iron Aluminum Cast Iron Aluminum Cast Iron Aluminum
mm ft-lb Nm ft-lb Nm ft-lb Nm ft-lb Nm ft-lb Nm ft-lb Nm
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
6 5 9 4 7 9 14 7 11 9 14 7 11
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
7 9 14 7 11 14 18 11 14 18 23 14 18
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
8 18 25 14 18 23 32 18 25 27 36 21 28
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
10 30 40 25 30 45 60 35 45 50 70 40 55
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
12 55 70 40 55 75 105 60 80 95 125 75 100
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
14 85 115 65 90 120 160 95 125 145 195 110 150
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
16 130 180 100 140 175 240 135 190 210 290 165 220
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
18 170 230 135 180 240 320 185 250 290 400 230 310

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 2 - 3 Torque Specifications

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 Torque Specifications Page 2 - 4 Rev. A Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 EQUIPMENT OPERATION AND SERVICE HISTORY REPORT
for
GROUNDSMASTER® 345

Unit Model and Serial Number: __________-__________

Deck Model and Serial Number: __________-__________

Engine Numbers: ____________________

Transmission Numbers: ____________________

Drive Axle(s) Numbers: ____________________

Date Purchased: ____________________ Warranty Expires__________

Purchased From: ____________________

____________________
____________________

Contacts: Parts ____________________ Phone __________________

Service ____________________ Phone __________________
Sales ____________________ Phone __________________
See your TORO Distributor/Dealer for other Publications, Manuals, and Videos from The TORO Company.

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 GROUNDSMASTER® 345 Maintenance Schedule

Minimum Recommended Maintenance Intervals:

Maintenance Procedure Maintenance Interval & Service
Every Every
Check Battery Fluid Level Every Every 400hrs
100hrs
200hrs
50hrs

Check Battery Cable Connections

Lubricate All Grease Fittings

Lubricate Brake Cables

Check Cutting Unit Gear Box Oil Level

Clean Under Cutting Unit Belt Covers

Check Cutting Unit Drive Belt Adjustment

Check PTO Belt Adjustment A Level

Service

Inspect Air Filter, Dust Cup, and Baffle

‡ Change Engine Oil and Filter
† Check Fan and Alternator Belt Tension B Level
Service
Inspect Cooling System Hoses
† Replace Transmission Oil Filter
Service Air Filter
Check Governor Oil Level
Decarbon Spark Arrestor Muffler
Check Rear Wheel Toe-In and Steering Linkage C Level
Service
† Torque Wheel Lug Nuts
Replace Fuel Filter
Change Transmission Oil
Change Cutting Unit Gear Box Oil
Replace Spark Plugs
Pack Rear Wheel Bearings D Level
Service
Torque Head, Adjust Valves, Check Engine RPM
† Initial break in at 10 hours
‡ Initial break in at 50 hours
Replace Moving Hoses Annual Recommendations:
Items listed are recommended every
Replace Safety Switches

1500 hours or 2 years whichever occurs

Coolant System - Flush/Replace Fluid
first.
(See Operator's and Service Manual for specifications and procedures)

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 GROUNDSMASTER® 345 Daily Maintenance Check List

Unit Designation:__________
Daily Maintenance:(duplicate this page for routine use) TORO ID#:_______-_______
Daily Maintenance Check For Week Of
_____________
MON TUES WED THURS FRI SAT SUN
Maintenance Check Item _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS
Safety Interlock Operation
Grass Deflector in Down Position
Brake Operation
Fuel Level
Engine Oil Level
Cooling System Fluid Level
Dust Cup and Baffle (Air Filter)
Radiator & Screen for Debris
Unusual Engine Noises
Unusual Operating Noises
Transmission Oil Level
Hydraulic Hoses for Damage
Fluid Leaks
Tire Pressure
Instrument Operation
Condition of Blades
Lubricate All Grease Fittings1
Touch-up damaged paint
1
= Immediately after every washing, regardless of the intervals specified.

Notation for areas of concern: Inspection performed by:________________

Item Date Information

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
(See Operator's and Service Manual for specifications and procedures)

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 GROUNDSMASTER® 345 Supervisor Maintenance Work Order Date:______________

(duplicate this page for routine use)

Unit Designation: TORO I.D. #: Remarks:
____________-____________
Hours: Service to perform (circle):

Technician: A B C D Other

A -Service (every 50 hours) B - Service (every 100 hours) C - Service (every 200 hours)

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Check Battery Fluid Level Change Engine Oil and Filter Replace Transmission Oil Filter
Check Battery Cable Connections Check Fan and Alternator Belt Tension Service Air Filter
Lubricate All Grease Fittings Inspect Cooling System Hoses Check Governor Oil Level
Lubricate Brake Cables A-Service required Decarbon Spark Arrestor Muffler
Check Cutting Unit Gear Box Oil Level ________________________________ Check Rear Wheel Toe-In and Steering
Clean Under Cutting Unit Belt Covers ________________________________ Torque Wheel Lug Nuts
Check Cutting Unit Drive Belt Adjustment ________________________________ A and B Service required
Check PTO Belt Adjustment ________________________________ ________________________________
Inspect Air Filter, Dust Cup, and Baffle ________________________________ ________________________________

D - Service (every 400 hours) Annual Service Additional Servicing Items

Replace Fuel Filter Replace Moving Hoses ________________________________
Change Transmission Oil Replace Safety Switches ________________________________
Change Cutting Unit Gear Box Oil Coolant System - Flush/Replace Fluid ________________________________
Replace Spark Plugs ________________________________ ________________________________
Pack Rear Wheel Bearings ________________________________ ________________________________
Torque Head, Adjust Valves, Engine RPM ________________________________ ________________________________
A, B, and C Service required ________________________________ ________________________________
___________________________________ ________________________________ ________________________________
___________________________________ ________________________________ ________________________________
(See Operator's and Service Manual for specifications and procedures) Form No. 95-844-SL
 EQUIPMENT OPERATION AND SERVICE HISTORY REPORT
for
GROUNDSMASTER® 322-D and 325-D

Unit Model and Serial Number: __________-__________

Deck Model and Serial Number: __________-__________

Engine Numbers: ____________________

Transmission Numbers: ____________________

Drive Axle(s) Numbers: ____________________

Date Purchased: ____________________ Warranty Expires__________

Purchased From: ____________________

____________________
____________________

Contacts: Parts ____________________ Phone __________________

Service ____________________ Phone __________________
Sales ____________________ Phone __________________
See your TORO Distributor/Dealer for other Publications, Manuals, and Videos from The TORO Company.

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 GROUNDSMASTER® 322-D and 325-D Maintenance Schedule

Minimum Recommended Maintenance Intervals:

Maintenance Procedure Maintenance Interval & Service
Every Every
Check Battery Fluid and Cable Connections Every Every 400hrs
100hrs 200hrs
Lubricate Grease Fittings 50hrs

Lubricate Brake Cables

Check Cutting Unit Gear Box Oil Level

Clean Under Cutting Unit Belt Covers

Check Cutting Unit Drive Belt Adjustment

Change Engine Oil

Check PTO Belt Tension A Level

Inspect Air Filter, Dust Cup and Baffle Service

‡ Replace Engine Oil Filter

† Check Fan and Alternator Belt Tension B Level
Inspect Cooling System Hoses Service

† Replace Transmission Oil Filter

Service Air Filter
Decarbon Spark Arrestor Muffler
Check Rear Wheel Toe-In and Steering Linkage C Level
† Torque Wheel Lug Nuts Service

Replace Diesel/Water Separator Filter

Replace Electric Fuel Pump Filter
Check Fuel Lines and Connections
Change Cutting Unit Gear Box Oil
Pack rear wheel bearings (2WD)
Change Rear Axle Lubricant (4WD)
Change Transmission Oil D Level
‡ Torque Head, Adjust Valves, and Check RPM Service

† Initial break in at 10 hours

‡ Initial break in at 50 hours
Replace Moving Hoses Annual Recommendations:
Replace Safety Switches Items listed are recommended every
1500 hours or 2 years whichever occurs
Coolant System - Flush/Replace Fluid first.
Fuel Tank - Drain/Flush
(See Operator's and Service Manual for specifications and procedures)

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 GROUNDSMASTER® 322-D and 325-D Daily Maintenance Check List

Unit Designation:__________
Daily Maintenance:(duplicate this page for routine use) TORO ID#:_______-_______
Daily Maintenance Check For Week Of
_____________
MON TUES WED THURS FRI SAT SUN
Maintenance Check Item _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS
Safety Interlock Operation
Grass Deflector in Down Position
Brake Operation
Fuel Level
Engine Oil Level
Cooling System Fluid Level
Drain Water/Fuel Separator
Dust Cup and Baffle (Air Filter)
Radiator & Screen for Debris
Unusual Engine Noises1
Unusual Operating Noises
Transmission Oil Level
Hydraulic Hoses for Damage
Fluid Leaks
Tire Pressure
Instrument Operation
Condition of Blades
Lubricate All Grease Fittings2
Touch-up damaged paint
1
= Check diesel glow plug and injector nozzles, if hard starting, excess smoke, or rough running is noted.
2
= Immediately after every washing, regardless of the intervals specified.

Notation for areas of concern: Inspection performed by:________________

Item Date Information
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
(See Operator's and Service Manual for specifications and procedures)

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 GROUNDSMASTER® 322-D and 325-D Supervisor Maintenance Work Order Date:______________

(duplicate this page for routine use)

Unit Designation: TORO I.D. #: Remarks:
____________-____________
Hours: Service to perform (circle):

Technician: A B C D Other

A - Service (every 50 hours) B - Service (every 100 hours) C - Service (every 200 hours)

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Check Battery Fluid and Cable Connections Replace Engine Oil Filter Change Transmission Oil
Lubricate Grease Fittings Check Fan and Alternator Belt Tension Replace Transmission Oil Filter
Lubricate Brake Cables Inspect Cooling System Hoses Service Air Filter
Check Cutting Unit Gear Box Oil Level A-Service required Decarbon Spark Arrestor Muffler
Clean Under Cutting Unit Belt Covers ________________________________ Check Rear Wheel Toe-In and Steering
Check Cutting Unit Drive Belt Adjustment ________________________________ Torque Wheel Lug Nuts
Change Engine Oil ________________________________ A and B Service required
Check PTO Belt Tension ________________________________ ________________________________
Inspect Air Filter, Dust Cup and Baffle ________________________________ ________________________________

D - Service (every 400 hours) Annual Service Additional Servicing Items

Replace Diesel/Water Separator Filter Replace Moving Hoses ________________________________
Replace Electric Fuel Pump Filter Replace Safety Switches ________________________________
Check Fuel Lines and Connections Coolant System - Flush/Replace Fluid ________________________________
Change Cutting Unit Gear Box Oil Fuel Tank - Drain/Flush ________________________________
Pack rear wheel bearings (2WD) ________________________________ ________________________________
Change Rear Axle Lubricant (4WD) ________________________________ ________________________________
Change Transmission Oil ________________________________ ________________________________
Torque Head, Adjust Valves, & Check RPM ________________________________ ________________________________
A, B, and C Service required ________________________________ ________________________________
(See Operator's and Service Manual for specifications and procedures) Form No. 95-855-SL
 Chapter 3

(For Groundsmaster 345 only)

Ford VSG-411 Engine

Table of Contents
SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 REPAIRS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Crankshaft Pulley Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Spark Plug Inspection and Replacement . . . . . . 2 Engine Removal and Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Engine Repair Information. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Alternator Belt Adjustment. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 FORD VSG-411/413 ENGINE SERVICE MANUAL
Coolant Fan Belt Adjustment. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Governor Adjustment. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Specifications

Item Specification

Make / Designation Ford Model VSG-411

Firing order 1-2-4-3

Ignition timing Distributorless Ignition System (DIS)

Timing controlled by Universal Electronic Spark Control (UESC)

Spark plug Motorcraft AGSF22C or AGRF22 or equivalent

Spark plug gap 0.040 in. (1.0 mm)

Crankcase oil capacity 3.5 U.S. qt. (3.25 liter) including filter

Oil service classification API SG, SG/CC, SG/CD

Oil viscosity Ambient temperature (single viscosity oil)

–10° to +60°F SAE 10
+10° to +90°F SAE 20
Above +32°F SAE 30
Above +50°F SAE 40

Ambient temperature (multi-viscosity oil)

Below +60°F SAE 5W-30
–10° to +90°F SAE 10W-30
Above –10°F SAE 10W-40 or 10W50
Above +10°F SAE 20W40 or 20W50

Fuel Unleaded gasoline 87 octane or higher

Coolant 50 / 50 ethylene glocol anti-freeze and water

Cooling system capacity 6 U.S. qt. (5.7 liter)

Carburetor idle speed setting (throttle arm against stop) 1350 ± 50 RPM

Governor idle speed setting 1500 ± 50 RPM

Governor high speed setting 3200 ± 100 RPM

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 3 - 1 Rev. C Specifications

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 General Information
Spark Plug Inspection and Replacement
Since air gap between center and side electrodes in-
creases gradually during normal engine operation,
check condition of electrodes at 100 hour intervals.

The correct spark plugs to use in the engine are Motor-

craft AGSF22C or AGRF22 or equivalent. Set air gap at
0.040 in. (1.0 mm).

1. Clean area around spark plugs so dirt does not fall

into cylinder when plugs are removed.

2. Pull wire off spark plugs and remove plugs from

cylinder head.

3. Check condition of center and side electrodes to

determine operating temperature of engine.

A. Light brown insulator tip indicates correct spark

plug and heat range.

B. Black or oily insulator tip indicates an excessively

rich fuel mixture, possibly caused by a dirty air
cleaner element or a carburetor that is set too rich.

C. Light gray or blistered-white insulator indicates

overheating caused by a lean carburetor setting or
incorrect spark plug (heat range too high).

IMPORTANT: A cracked, fouled or dirty spark plug

must be replaced. Do not sandblast, scrape or clean
electrodes by using a wire brush because grit may
release from the plug and enter combustion cham-
ber resulting in engine damage.

4. After setting air gap at 0.040 in. (1.0 mm), install spark
plug in cylinder head. Tighten the plug to 11 - 15 ft-lb.
Push wire onto spark plug.

General Information Page 3 - 2 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Adjustments
Alternator Belt Adjustment (Fig. 1)
A new alternator belt is to be tensioned to 65 lbs. A used
belt is to be re-tensioned to 40 lbs.

1. To adjustable tension, loosen bolt securing brace to

engine, bolt securing alternator to brace and alternator
mounting bolts.

2. Insert pry bar between alternator and engine and pry

out on alternator.

3. Hold alternator in position after proper tension is

achieved and tighten alternator and brace bolts to se-
cure adjustment.

Figure 1

1. Alternator
2. Brace

Coolant Fan Belt Adjustment (Fig. 2)

A new fan belt is to be tensioned to 45 lbs. A used belt
is to be re-tensioned to 28 lbs.

1. To adjust belt tension, loosen upper and lower nuts

securing idler arm to front engine mount.

2. Pull out on idler arm until desired belt tension is

achieved.

3. Tighten mounting nuts to secure adjustment.

Figure 2

1. Edler arm
2. Engine mount

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 3 - 3 Adjustments

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 Governor Adjustment (Fig. 3, 4)
1. With engine shut off, move throttle control to FAST
position and open hood. Check between throttle arm
and stop on carburetor base to make sure there is a
1/32 in. (0.8 mm) gap. If gap is not correct, adjust throttle
rod by turning ball joint ends until gap is 1/32 in.
(0.8 mm). If gap is correct, to to step 2.

WARNING
Engine must be running so final adjustment
of governor can be performed. To guard
against possible personal injury, engage
parking brake and keep hands, feet, face, and
other parts of body away from fan and other
moving parts.

Figure 3
2. Start engine and move throttle to SLOW position.
Allow engine to warm up to normal operating tempera- 1. 1/32" (0.8 mm) 4. Stop
ture. 2. Throttle rod 5. Throttle arm
3. Carbruetor idle speed screw
3. Rotate throttle arm closed until it contacts stop.

4. Check idle speed and adjust carburetor idle speed

screw if necessary to attain 1350 ± 50 rpm.

Adjustments Page 3 - 4 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 5. Release throttle arm, loosen jam nut on governor low
idle stop screw and adjust it to get 1500 ± 100 rpm.
Tighten jam nut.

6. Slowly move throttle to FAST position until engine

speed reaches 3200 ± 100 rpm. Shut off engine. Adjust
high idle stop screw until it contacts speed control lever.

IMPORTANT: Do not over-speed the engine because

the transmission could be damaged.

7. Move throttle rapidly from SLOW to FAST. The engine

should not surge. If engine surges, go to step 8.

8. Check V-belts from engine to governor pulley and

make sure they are tight. If belts are loose, engine will
surge. If belts are tensioned properly, loosen jam nut
that retains anti-surge screw. Rotate screw clockwise Figure 4
1/8 turn at a time until surging stops. Should governor
continue to surge, check the following: 1. High idle stop screw 5. Oil check plug
2. Speed control lever 6. Low idle stop screw
A. Carburetor too rich or too lean. 3. Jam nut 7. Oil fill plug
B. Binding in throttle linkage. 4. Anti-surge screw
C. Governor worn internally.

IMPORTANT: Never rotate anti-surge screw in too

far so that speed of engine increases.

9. Bump throttle lever with your hand so engine speeds

up momentarily. If governor is working properly, engine
speed should return to normal within one or two surges
of governor. More than two surges of governor usually
indicates that the anti-surge screw must be turned in
slightly more than it is. When adjustment is correct, lock
jam nut against governor body.

10. Check low and high idle speed to be sure there is

no change from initial setting. If high idle speed has
increased, anti-surge screw has been turned into gov-
ernor too far and it must be backed out. Then, repeat
the entire adjustment procedure.

NOTE: If the throttle control on instrument panel will not

stay in FAST position during operation, remove panel
cover and tighten nut and capscrew at base of throttle
lever assembly.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 3 - 5 Adjustments

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 Repairs
Crankshaft Pulley Installation
1. Insert three of four locking rings into crankshaft pulley.

NOTE: Outside locking rings have tapered I.D. and flat

O.D. Inside locking rings have flat I.D. and tapered O.D.

A. Install first outside ring seated against small inter-

nal shoulder of pulley, flat edge of ring touching small
pulley shoulder.

B. Install second inside ring, mating taper to taper

with first ring.

C. Install third outside ring with flat edge against

previous inside ring.

D. Align ring end gaps with key slot in pulley.

2. Align pulley key slot with crankshaft key. Install pulley Figure 5
approximately 1/4" onto crankshaft.
1. Woodruff key 4. Special washer
3. Insert fourth locking ring, taper to taper, with third ring. 2. Pulley 5. Metric bolt
3. Locking rings
4. Insert bolt through special washer. Shoulder on
washer contacts shoulder of fourth locking ring.

5. Draw pulley onto crankshaft by tightening crankshaft

bolt. Resistance will be felt as crankshaft passes
through locking rings.

6. Tighten crankshaft bolt to a torque of 40-44 ft-lb.

Check pulley alignment between crankshaft and water
pump.

Repairs Page 3 - 6 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Engine Removal and Installation
Removing the Engine 14. Remove fuel line from inlet side of fuel pump.

1. Put machine on a level surface, stop engine, remove NOTE: Be prepared to insert a plug into fuel line to
key from ignition switch and engage parking brake. prevent fuel spill.

2. Remove intake hose from air cleaner and carburetor. 15. Remove capscrews securing fan shroud to radiator
so fan shroud can be move during engine removal for
3. Remove transmission drive coupling (see Chapter 10 cooling fan clearance.
- Transmission Coupler and PTO).
16. Attach a short section of chain between the two lifting
4. Remove PTO belt (see Chapter 10 - Transmission shakles on the engine. Attach block and tackle or hoist
Coupler and PTO). chain to this short section of chain, approximately mid-
way between the two shakles.
5. Disconnect battery cables from battery terminals.
17. Remove four bolts securing rear engine mount to
6. Disconnect and tag all wires connected to engine and frame.
engine accessories.
18. Remove slack from lifting chain and carefully re-
7. Put a drain pan under radiator, loosen radiator cap, move two capscrews which pass through the two rubber
loosen radiator petcock and allow radiator to drain com- front engine mounts.
pletely.
19. Lift and guide engine from engine compartment. Be
8. Move drain pan under lower radiator hose. Discon- careful not to damage the radiator cooling fan or other
nect hose from radiator and allow coolant to drain into components during removal.
pan. Remove lower and upper radiator hoses.
Installing the Engine
9. Move drain pan under rear of engine and remove
cylinder block plug (located above starter) to drain cool- 1. Do steps 2 - 19 of “Removing the Engine” in reverse
ant from cylinder block. Install cylinder block plug. order.

10. Remove cable tie securing control cables and 2. Fill cooling system with new coolant. Install a new oil
vacuum sensor hose near caburetor. filter and fill engine with correct oil.

11. Disconnect vacuum sensor hose from fuel trap on 3. Inspect for oil and coolant leaks.
carbruetor.
4. Check engine idle speed and maximum governed
12. Disconnect choke control cable from carburetor. speed settings.

13. Disconnect throttle control cable from governor.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 3 - 7 Repairs

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 Engine Repair Information
Ford VSG-411 Component Changes

Ford VSG-411 engines with a date code of 2D21 or later

have five (5) main bearings, which is the same design
used on the VSG-413 engine. VSG-411 engines pro-
duced before this date have four (4) main bearings (see
Page 1-01, under IDENTIFICATION in the Ford
VSG-411/413 Engine Service Manual for an explana-
tion of Ford corporate date system).

Listed below is a summary of changes from the four (4)

main bearing design to the five (5) main bearing design
of the VSG-411 engine:

Cylinder block – New, five main bearing design.

Crankshaft – Same as VSG-413.

Crankshaft lower main bearing – No change.

Crankshaft upper main bearing – No change.

Cr anksha ft r ear oil sea l re ta iner – Same

as VSG-413.

Crankshaft rear bearing oil seal gasket – Same

as VSG-413

Repairs Page 3 - 8 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Chapter 4

(For Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D only)

Mitsubishi K3D Diesel Engine

For Groundsmaster 328-D, use the Toro Operator's Manual and Parts Catalog
Table of Contents along with the Kubota 05 Series Workshop Manual (Toro Part No. 01090SL).

INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Stop Solenoid Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Water Pump Servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 FUEL SYSTEM REPAIRS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Bleeding the Fuel System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Lubrication System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Bleeding Air From the Injectors . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Fuel System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Fuel Pump Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Governor System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Governor Mechanism Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Cooling System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Governor Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Electrical System. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Injection Pump Servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Tightening Torque . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Nozzle Servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 REMOVING AND INSTALLING THE ENGINE . . . . 46
ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Removing the Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Valve Clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Installing the Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Engine Speed Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 CYLINDER HEAD OVERHAUL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Throttle Linkage Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Cylinder Head Removal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Cylinder Head Servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
TESTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Valve Guides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Glow Plug Test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Valves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Compression Test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Valve Seats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Nozzle Tests . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Valve Springs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Injection Pump Test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Rocker Arm and Rocker Shaft Service . . . . . . . 51
Injection Timing Test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Cylinder Head Reassembly and Installation . . . 52
Fuel Pump Test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 CYLINDER BLOCK OVERHAUL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Thermostat Test. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Cylinder Block Disassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
PREPARATION FOR ENGINE REPAIR. . . . . . . . . 25 Camshaft and Bearing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Cylinder and Cylinder Block Overhaul . . . . . . . 25 Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
EXTERNAL ENGINE COMPONENT REPAIR . . . . 26 Crankshaft Bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Crankcase Breather System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Timing Gears . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Alternator Belt Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Connecting Rod and Connecting Rod Bearings 57
Fan Belt Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Cylinders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Fan, Fan Pulley and Fan Shaft Service . . . . . . 28 Oversized Pistons, Cylinder Bore and Rings. . . 58
Glow Plug Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Piston and Pin Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Oil Pressure Switch Replacement. . . . . . . . . . . 29 Engine Reassembly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Oil Pump Servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 4 - 1 Rev. C Table of Contents

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 Introduction
This chapter gives information about specifications,
maintenance, troubleshooting, testing and repair of the
diesel engine used in the Groundsmaster® 322-D and
325-D mower.

Most repairs and adjustments require tools which are

commonly available in many service shops. Special
tools are described in the Special Tools section. The use
of some specialized test equipment is explained, how-
ever, the cost of the test equipment and the specialized
nature of some repairs may dictate that the work be
done at a qualified diesel engine repair facility.

The engine used in the Groundsmaster® 322-D/325-D

mower is manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries Figure 1
Limited. Service and repair parts for Mitsubishi engines
are supplied through TORO Distributors. Repair parts
may be ordered by TORO Part Number. If no parts list
is available be sure to provide your dealer or distributor
with the TORO Model Number and Serial Number.

The engine model number is embossed on the pump

mounting side of the crankcase. The serial number is
stamped on the injection pump mounting surface of the
crankcase (Fig. 1).

Introduction Page 4 - 2 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Specifications
The illustrations (Figs. 2a and 2b) give information about Refer to the specifications listed in this section when
the general construction of the engine. performing tests on the engine or examining parts for
wear. Some specifications are included in the service
procedures later in this chapter.

Figure 2a Figure 2b

1. Cooling fan 10. Crank pulley 19. Cylinder head 1. Air breather pipe 8. Cylinder block 15. Piston
2. Water oulet fitting 11. Crankshaft 20. Cylinder block 2. Glow plug 9. Oil screen 16. Connecting rod
3. Intake valve 12. Gear case 21. Push rod 3. Intake manifold 10. Oil pan 17. Push rod
4. Exhaust valve 13. Oil pan 22. Tappet 4. Nozzle holder 11. Oil filler cap 18. Tappet
5. Water pump pulley 14. Oil screen 23. Camshaft 5. Cylinder head 12. Rocker cover 19. Camshaft
6. Water pump 15. Oil filler cap 24. Rear oil seal 6. Injection pump 13. Rocker arm 20. Crankshaft
7. Piston 16. Rocker cover 24. case 7. Pump camshaft 14. Exhaust manifold
8. Connecting rod 17. Rocker arm 25. Flywheel
9. Fan belt 18. Rocker shaft

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 4 - 3 Specifications

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 General
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Item Specification
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Make/Designation Mitsubishi K3D-61TG, overhead valve,

vertical in-line, 4 cycle diesel
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Rotation Counterclockwise at flywheel side

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Combustion Chamber Swirl chamber type

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Number of Cylinders 3
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Bore x Stroke 73 x 78 mm (2.9 x 3.1 in.)

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Total Displacement 0.979 liter (59.7 in.3)

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Compression Ratio 23:1

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Firing Order 1-3-2

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Dry Weight (approximate) 124 kg (273 lb.)

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Fuel Diesel ASTM No. 2-D (ASTM No. 1-D in very cold weather)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Fuel Injection Pump Bosch M type

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Governor Centrifugal fly weight type

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Fuel Injector Nozzle Throttle type

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Fuel Injection Pressure (120 - 130 kg/cm2) 1700 - 1850 psi

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Lubrication System Forced lubrication

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Oil Pump Gear type

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Oil Filter Paper element filter (full flow type)

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Crankcase Oil Capacity 3.5 liter (3.7 U.S. qt.) including filter
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Cooling System Forced circulation, water cooling

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Water Pump Centrifugal type

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Cooling System Capacity 5.7 liter (6 U.S. qt.)

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Starter Solenoid shift type

2.0 kW (12 volt)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Alternator AC type 12 volt 35A

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Glow Plug Sheathed type

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Specifications Page 4 - 4 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Engine
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Item Standard Specification Repair Limit Service Limit

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Governor Mechanical/Centrifugal
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Operating Speed (no load) 3200 rpm ± 50 rpm

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Idle Speed (no load) 1500 rpm ± 50 rpm

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Compression 32 kg/cm2 (455 psi) at 280 rpm 26 kg/cm2 (370 psi) 22 kg/cm2 (313 psi)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Pressure Difference Between Cylinders 2.5 kg/cm2 (36 psi) max.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Cylinder Injection Order 1-3-2

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Injection Timing 23o B.T.D.C. (at smoke set position ± 2o

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Cylinder Head

Bottom Surface Flatness (distortion) 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) max. 0.1 mm (0.004 in.)
Valve Guide I.D. 6.6 mm (0.26 in.)
Valve Seat Angle 45o
Valve Seat Width 1.3 - 1.8 mm (0.051 - 0.071 in.) 2.5 mm (0.1 .in.)
Valve Seat Sinkage –1 mm (– 0.039 in.)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Valve Clearance (cold) 0.25 mm (0.01 in.)

(both intake and exhaust)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Valves

Valve Head Dia. (IN) 27.2 mm (1.079 in.)

Valve Head Dia. (EX) 25.2 mm (0.992 in.)
Overall Length 114.5 (4.508 in.)
Valve Stem O.D. 6.6 mm (0.260 in.)
Stem to Guide Clearance (IN) 0.10 mm (0.004 in.)
Stem to Guide Clearance (EX) 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
Valve Seat Face Angle 45o
Valve Head Thickness (margin width) 1 mm (0.039 in.) 0.5 mm (0.020 in.)
Valve Head Sinkage
(from cyl. head bottom face) 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) 1.5 mm (0.06 in.)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Valve Spring

Free Length 43 mm (1.693 in.) – 1 mm (– 0.039 in.)

Installed Load/Height 14 ± 0.7kg/36 mm –15%
(30.9 ± 1.5 lb./1.417 in.)
29.75 ± 1.5 kg/28 mm –10%
(65.6 ± 3.3 lb./1.102 in.)
Squareness 2o 3o
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Rocker Arm I.D. 18.9 mm (0.744 in.)

Rocker Arm to Shaft Clearance –0.2 mm (0.008 in.)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Cylinder Block

Camshoft hole I.D.

Front (Bush) 45 mm (1.772 in.)
Oil Clearance 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
Center 44 mm (1.732 in.)
Rear 34 mm (1.339 in.)
Cylinder Bore 73 mm (2.874 in.) +0.2 mm (0.008 in.) + 0.95 mm (0.037 in.)
Oversize finish tolerance 0 to 0.03 mm (0 to 0.001 in.)
Cylindricity of cylinder bore 0.01 mm (0.0004 in.) max.
Warpage of head gasket mating surface 0.05 mm (0.0020 in.) max. 0.1 mm (0.004 in.)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 4 - 5 Specifications

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 Engine (cont.)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Item Standard Specification Repair Limit Service Limit

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Piston

Type Solid
Material Aluminum alloy
Piston Outside Diameter (skirt end) 73 mm (2.874 in.)
Piston to Cylinder Wall Clearance 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
Oversize 0.25, 0.50, 0.75 mm
(0.01, 0.02, 0.03 in.)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Piston Pin

Type Semi-floating
Outside Diameter 19 mm (0.748 in.)
Pin to Piston Clearance 0.08 mm (0.003 in.)
Pin to Connecting Rod Clearance Press-fit load: 1000 + 500 kg
(2200 + 1100 lb.)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Piston Rings

Number of Rings
3 Compression No. 1: Chrome plated, semi-keystone type
No. 2 and No. 3: Tapered
1 Oil Chrome plated ring with coil expander
Compression Ring Width 2 mm (0.079 in.)
Oil Ring Width 3 mm (0.118 in.)
Compression Ring Side Clearance
No. 1 0.06 - 0.12 mm (0.0024 - 0.005 in.) 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
No. 2 0.05 - 0.09 mm (0.002 - 0.004 in.) 0.2 mm (0.008 in.)
Oil Ring Side Clearance 0.03 - 0.07 mm (0.001 - 0.003 in.) 0.2 mm (0.008 in.)
Ring Gap 0.15 - 0.40 mm (0.006 - 0.016 in.) 1.5 mm (.060 in.)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Connecting Rod

Type Forged I-beam

Bend and Twist 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) max. 0.15 mm (0.006 in.) max.
Big End Thrust Clearance 0.1 - 0.35 mm (0.004 - 0.014 in.) 0.5 mm (0.02 in.)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Connecting Rod Bearings

Oil Clearance 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)

Undersize 0.25, 0.50, 0.75 mm
(0.01, 0.02, 0.03 in.)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Crankshaft

Type Fully counterbalanced

Bend Within 0.03 mm (0.001 in.) 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
End Play 0.05 - 0.205 mm (0.002 - 0.008 in.)
Journal O.D. 52 mm (2.047 in.) – 0.15 mm (– 0.006 in.) – 0.95 mm (– 0.037 in.)
Pin O.D. 42 mm (1.654 in.) – 0.15 mm (– 0.006 in.) – 0.95 mm (– 0.037 in.)
Finish Undersize
Journal U.S. 0.25 mm (0.01 in.) 51.735 - 51.750 mm
(2.0368 - 2.0374in.)
Journal U.S. 0.50 mm (0.02 in.) 51.485 - 51.500 mm
(2.0270 - 2.0276 in.)
Journal U.S. 0.75 mm (0.03 in.) 51.235 - 51.250 mm
(2.0171 - 2.0177 in.)
Pin U.S. 0.25 mm (0.01 in.) 41.700 to 41.715 mm
(1.6417 - 1.6423 in.)
Pin U.S. 0.50 mm (0.02 in.) 41.450 - 41.465 mm
(1.6319 - 1.6325 in.)
Pin U.S. 0.75 mm (0.03 in.) 41.200 - 41.215 mm
(1.6220 - 1.6226 in.)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Specifications Page 4 - 6 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Engine (cont.)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Item Standard Specification Repair Limit Service Limit

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Main Bearings

Oil Clearance 0.10 mm (0.004 in.)

Undersize 0.25, 0.50, 0.75 mm
(0.01, 0.02, 0.03 in.)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Camshaft

Drive System Gear

Journal to Cylinder Block Hole Clearance 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
Cam Lobe Height 35.76 mm (1.401 in.) – 1.0 mm (– 0.039 in.)
(both intake and exhaust)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Pump Camshaft

Drive System Gear

Bearing
Front Ball bearing
Rear Cylinder block hole
Cam Lobe Height 44 mm (1.732 in.) – 1.0 mm (– 0.039 in.)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Tappets
Outside Diameter 23 mm (0.906 in.)
Tappet to Cylinder Block Hole Clearance – 0.15 mm (– 0.006 in.)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Push Rod Bend 0.3 mm (0.012 in.) max.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Lubrication System
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Item Standard Specification Repair Limit Service Limit

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Oil Capacity 3.5 liter (3.7 qt.)

including oil filter
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

API Service Class CD

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Viscosity

Above 68oF (20oC) SAE 30 or 10W-30

41oF to 68oF (5o to 20oC) SAE 20 or 10W-30
Below 41oF (5oC) SAE 10W-30
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Oil Pump

Type Gear type

Check Valve Opening Pressure 4 kg/cm2 (56.9 psi)
at 1000 rpm
Outer Rotor to Housing Clearance 0.15 - 0.20 mm (0.006 - 0.008 in.) 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
Outer Roto to Inner Rotor Clearance 0.05 - 0.12 mm (0.002 - 0.005 in.) 0.25 mm (0.01 in.)
Rotor to Cover Clearance 0.03 - 0.07 mm (0.001 - 0.003 in.) 0.2 mm (0.008 in.)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Oil Pressure Switch

Indicator Lamp Lighting Pressure 0.5 kg/cm2 (7.1 psi)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 4 - 7 Specifications

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 Fuel System
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Item Standard Specification Repair Limit Service Limit

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Fuel Pump Delivery Rate 225 cc (13.73 in3) or more (15 sec., 12V)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Fuel Injection Pump

Model MD-PER3M
Injection Timing (B.T.D.C.) 23o B.T.D.C. (at smoke set position ± 2o
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Nozzles

Type Throttle type

Model ND-DN4SD24
Injection Start Pressure 120 kg/cm2 (1707 psi) 120 ± 10 kg/cm2
(1707 ± 142 psi)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Cooling System
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Item Standard Specification Repair Limit Service Limit

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Coolant Capacity 5.7 liter (6 U.S. qt.)

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Thermostat

Type Wax type

Valve Cracking Temperature 76.5° ± 1.5°C (177° ± 3°F
Full Opening Valve Temperature 90o ± 1.5oC (194o ± 3oF)
Valve Lift 8 mm (0.314 in.)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Specifications Page 4 - 8 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Electrical System
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Item Standard Specification Repair Limit Service Limit

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Starter

Type Solenoid shift type

Nominal Output 2.0 kW - 12V
Direction of Rotation Clockwise as viewed from pinion side
No-load Characteristics (Cold)
Terminal Voltage/Current 11V/130A max. at 20°C (68°F)
Speed 3850 rpm min.
Height of Brush 11.5 mm (0.45 in.) 1.7 mm (0.07 in.)
Spring Pressure 3 kg (6.6 lb.) 1.8 kg (4 lb.)
Commutator O.D. 38.7 mm (1.52 in.) – 1.0 mm (– 0.4 in.)
Depth of Commutator Undercut 0.5 -0.8 mm (0.02 - 0.03 in.) 0.2 mm (0.008 in.)
Pinion Gap 0.5 - 2.0 mm (0.02 - 0.08 in.)
Thrust Gap 0.5 (0.02 in.) max.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Alternator

Nominal Output 12V - 35A

Direction of Rotation Clockwise as viewed from pulley side
No Load Output Characteristics (Cold)
Terminal Voltage/Current 14V/0A at 20°C (68°F)
Speed 1300 rpm or less
Load Output Characteristics (Cold)
Terminal Voltage/Current 14V/30A or more at 20°C (68°F)
Speed 2500 rpm
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Regulator (separate type)

Regulated Voltage 14.8 ± 0.3V

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Glow Plugs

Rated Voltage 10.5V DC

Rated Current (when rated voltage
is applied for 30 seconds) 9.7A ± 1.0A
Resistance 0.16 ohm (at room temperature)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Glow Plug Indicator

Rated Current 29A

Voltage Across Terminals (at 29A) 1.7V ± 0.2V
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 4 - 9 Specifications

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 Tightening Torque
The Mitsubishi diesel engine has many bolts and cap- the engine. The torque specifications in American
screws of special materials and sizes. It is very impor- Standard and Metric as listed below MUST be followed
tant that special care be used to replace all bolts and in order to have the assembled engine conform to the
capscrews in their proper location during assembly of original specifications.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Item Description Tightening Torque

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Cylinder head bolt M12 (qty. 8) 11.5 - 12.5 kgm (wet) (83 - 90 ft-lb)
Cylinder head bolt M10 (qty. 3) 6.5 - 8.0 kgm (wet) (47 - 58 ft-lb)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Crankshaft pulley nut M18 15 - 16 kgm (109 - 116 ft-lb)

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Main bearing cap bolt 5 - 5.5 kgm (36 - 40 ft-lb)

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Connecting rod cap nut 3.2 - 3.5 kgm (23 - 25 ft-lb)

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Flywheel mounting bolts (8T) flanged bolts 13 - 14 kgm (94 - 101 ft-lb)
(8T) bolts with washers 11.5 - 12.5 kgm (83 - 90 ft-lb)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Oil drain plug 5 - 6 kgm (36 - 43 ft-lb)

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Oil filter 1.1 - 1.3 kgm (8 - 9 ft-lb)

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Fuel injection pump

Delivery valve holder 4 - 5 kgm (29 - 36 ft-lb)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Nozzle holder
Holder mounting bolt 1.5 - 2 kgm (11 - 15 ft-lb)
Holder body and retaining nut 6 - 8 kgm (43 - 58 ft-lb)
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Glow plug 1.5 - 2 kgm (11 - 15 ft-lb)

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Specifications Page 4 - 10 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Special Tools
Order special tools from T O R O S P E C IA L T O O L S A N D
A P P L IC AT IO N S G U ID E (C o m m e rcial P ro d u c ts). Some
tools may be available from a local supplier.

Filter Cleaner (Fig. 3)

Filter cleaner. Mix with water and use solution to wash
the Donaldson air cleaner element.

Figure 3

Diesel Engine Compression Test Kit (Fig. 5)

Diesel engine compression test kit. 0-1000 PSI Gauge
allows testing of diesel engines to check general oper-
ating condition of engine. Includes case, guage with
hose, glow plug hole adapters and instructions.

Figure 5

Piston Pin Tool (Fig. 6)

Piston pin tool is used to remove and install the wrist pin
without distorting the piston. Inludes an adapter for use
with Mitsubishi and most other engines.

Figure 6

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 4 - 11 Special Tools

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 Nozzle Tester (Fig. 7)
Nozzle tester tests condition and opening pressure of
fuel injector nozzles.

Figure 7

Nozzle Tester Adapter (Fig. 8)

Nozzle tester adapter is required to test the fuel injection
nozzles.

Figure 8

Camshaft Bushing Tool (Fig. 9)

The camshaft bushing removal and installation tool is
used in conjunction with a soft metal hammer to remove
or install the camshaft bushing in the Mitsubishi K3D
engine.

Figure 9

Special Tools Page 4 - 12 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Adjustments
Valve Clearance (Fig. 10, 11, 12)
Check the valve clearance after the first 50 hours of
operation and every 400 hours of operation after that.

1. The engine must be cold when the valve clearance is

checked.

2. Remove the air breather hose from the rocker cover.

3. Remove the rocker cover nuts and washers. Remove

the rocker cover.

4. Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the proper torque.

The rocker assembly must be removed before tighten-
ing the cylinder head bolts. When tightening the cylinder
head bolts, lower the coolant level in the engine, loosen Figure 10
the bolts slightly and then re-tighten in the sequence
shown.

M12 bolt torque (wet): 1.5 - 12.5 kgm (83 - 90 ft-lb)

M10 bolt torque (wet): 6.5 - 8.0 kgm (47-58 ft-lb)
Rocker stay bolt torque: 1.5 - 2.2 KgM (11 - 16 ft-lb)

5. Rotate the crankshaft until the TDC mark (located

next to the injection timing mark(s) on the pulley lines
up with the registration mark on the gear case. This will
be TDC on cylinder No. 1.

NOTE: There are two TDC positions (compression and

intake strokes). At compression TDC the rocker arms
will not move when the crankshaft pulley is rotated a
small distance each way. Compression TDC is where Figure 11
the valves are to be adjusted.

6. Measure the valve clearance by using a thickness

gauge inserted between the valve stem and rocker arm.
The correct valve clearance for both the intake and
exhaust valves is 0.25 mm (0.01 in.).

7. To adjust the valve clearance, loosen the adjusting

lock nut and turn the rocker arm adjusting screw clock-
wise or counterclockwise until you get the correct clear-
ance. Tighten the locknut securely. Check to make sure
that the clearance was not changed while tightening the
locknut.

8. Perform steps 6 and 7 of this procedure for cylinder Figure 12

No. 2 and 3 while at their TDC position. Turn the
crankshaft 240o clockwise to get No. 3 cylinder TDC.
Turn the crankshaft an additional 240o clockwise to get
No. 2 cylinder TDC.

9. Install the rocker cover. Install the rocker cover nuts

and washers. Install the air breather hose on the rocker
cover.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 4 - 13 Adjustments

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 Engine Speed Adjustments (Fig. 13, 14)
Adjustments to the engine speed settings are not nor- Idle Speed Adjustment
mally necessary unless the throttle linkage, injection
pump, or governor mechanism have been repaired, NOTE: Specified engine rpm is with no load on engine.
rebuilt, replaced or are not operating correctly.
1. The engine should be at operating temperature. Make
Since there is no ignition system from which to power sure the parking brake is engaged.
an electronic tachometer, a vibration-type tachometer
must be used to set engine speed. 2. Move the throttle control lever to the idle position
(against the stop plate). Open the hood.
NOTE: This engine is equipped with a special damper
spring (Fig. 14) which is designed to prevent engine 3. Make sure throttle cable is mounted correctly to allow
stalling when the throttle decelerated quickly. Adjust- complete travel of throttle control.
ment of this spring is required when adjusting the engine
rpm. 4. Loosen the lock nut on the low speed set bolt (Fig. 13)
and adjust idle speed to 1500 ± rpm by rotating the low
High Speed Adjustment speed set bolt. Tighten the lock nut.

NOTE: Specified rpm is with no load on engine.

The high speed set bolt has been set properly and
sealed at the factory. Never tamper with the seal unless
necessary.

Idle rpm 1500 ± 50 rpm

No load governed rpm Setting “A” 3120 - 3160 rpm

Setting “B” 3145 - 3200 rpm

1. The engine should be at operating temperature. Make

sure the parking brake is engaged.

2. Open and support the hood.

3. Remove sealing cap from damper spring adjusting

bolt (Fig. 14) and loosen adjusting bolt to remove
damper spring tension. NOTE: If tie rod cover was Figure 13
removed, make sure governor tie rod has been pushed
to the high speed position before cover is installed.

4. Loosen the lock nut on the high speed set bolt

(Fig. 13) and adjust maximum engine speed to setting
“A” by rotating the high speed set bolt. Tighten lock nut
after adjusting.

5. Tighten damper spring adjusting bolt to adjust maxi-

mum engine speed to setting “B”, then tighten locknut
to secure adjusting bolt (apply Loctite 242 or equivalent
to threads of adjusting bolt).

5. Install a wire and lead seal on high speed set bolt.

Figure 14

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 Throttle Linkage Adjustment (Fig. 15)
1. Loosen the capscrew and nut securing the throttle
cable to throttle lever.

2. Push the governor lever all the way back so it is

contacting the high speed set screw.

3. Move the throttle lever to the maximum speed posi-

tion (all the way forward).

4. Tighten the cap screw and nut securing the throttle

cable to the governor lever.

5. Make sure the throttle cable conduit does not interfere

with the full range of motion of the throttle lever or
governor lever.

Figure 15

1. Governor lever 4. Throttle cable

2. Cap screw and nut 5. Throttle cable conduit
3. Throttle lever

Troubleshooting
Giving Immediate attention to any indication of a prob- Never make more that one adjustment at a time, then
lem can prevent major failures, and increase the life of locate the trouble by a process of elimination. Remem-
the engine. ber the cause is usually SIMPLE, rather than mysterious
and complicated.

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 Troubleshooting Page 4 - 16 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 4 - 17 Troubleshooting

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 Testing
Glow Plug Test (Fig. 16)

Be careful while handling or testing glow

plugs. Glow plugs become extremely hot. Ac-
cidental contact with the heated plug tip could
cause personal injury.

1. Disconnect the wire lead(s) to the glow plug.

2. Remove the glow plug.

3. Inspect the glow plug for signs of a burnt glow plug Figure 16
end tube.

NOTE: If the metal of the glow plug end is melted, it is

a sign of cylinder overheating. (See Engine Overheats
in the Troubleshooting section of this chapter.)

4. Connect the positive (+) battery terminal to the glow

plug terminal, and the negative (–) battery terminal to
the plug body. If the glow plug glows red-hot, the glow
plug is operating correctly.

5. Replace any glow plugs that do not operate correctly.

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 Compression Test (Fig. 17)
Normal cylinder compression is 32 kg/cm2 (455 psi) at
280 rpm (normal cranking speed). The engine should
be warm - coolant temperature of 50o C (120o F).

IMPORTANT: DO NOT put oil into the combustion

chamber before performing a compression test.
Damage may result because of “hydraulic” forces
acting upon the piston and connecting rod.

1. Remove the glow plug lead wires and glow plugs from
all three cylinders.

2. Insert the compression gauge adapter into the glow

plug hole. (See the Special Tools section of this
chapter.) Figure 17

3. Connect the high pressure compression gauge to the

adapter.

4. Hold fuel shut off lever in closed position to prevent

fuel delivery during compression test. This will prevent
wash-down of cylinders and inaccurate readings.

5. Crank the engine with the starter motor until you get
a stable gauge reading.

6. If the pressure is less than 26 kg/cm2 (370 psi) it will

be necessary to find the cause of low compression. (See
Engine Fails to Start - Low Compression in the Trou-
bleshooting section of this chapter.)

7. Repeat the test for the other two cylinders. Difference

between cylinders should be no more than 2.5 kg/cm2
(36 psi).

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 Nozzle Tests (Fig. 18, 19)
There are several tests to examine the condition of the 3. Allow pressure to dissipate before performing the test.
injection nozzles. These tests require the use of a
nozzle tester and nozzle tester adapter. (See the Spe- 4. Operate the pump handle slowly and observe the
cial Tools section of this chapter.) gauge to determine the pressure at which the nozzle
opens and the fuel is sprayed.

5. Verify that starting pressure is within the following

limits:
The nozzle tester forces fuel from the nozzle
2
under extremely high pressure. Always point Minimum starting pressure 120 kg/cm (1700 psi)
the nozzle tip away from yourself and any 2
other personnel. Contact with the fuel stream, Maximum starting pressure 130 kg/cm (1850 psi)
even though it appears to be a mist can cause
fuel to penetrate clothing and skin. If fuel is 6. Starting pressure can be adjusted by adding or re-
injected into the skin get proper medical at- moving shims from the nozzle. (See Nozzle Service in
tention from a doctor immediately. A serious the Fuel System Repairs section of this chapter.) A
infection or other reaction can develop if the 0.1 mm shim will cause a 10 kg/cm2 (140 psi) starting
injury is not properly treated. Tighten all pressure difference.
adapter fittings to prevent leaks. If a leak is
suspected, use a piece of cardboard, not your 7. Repeat the test after installing shim to verify that a
hands to search for a leak. correct starting pressure has been obtained.

Chattering Test

Proper and free operation of the nozzle valve can be

determined by the chattering test.

1. Securely fasten the nozzle to be tested to the adapter.

To prevent possible injury, wear eye protec-
tion when operating the nozzle tester. 2. Operate the pump handle slowly (ten strokes per
minute). As the pump pressure reaches the starting
IMPORTANT: Always use fresh filtered fuel in the pressure the nozzle valve will chatter as it opens and
nozzle tester. Use of dirty fuel can damage the closes rapidly. A nozzle which does not chatter may be
precision parts of the injector nozzle. It is a good the result of a binding or bent nozzle valve.
practice to:
Nozzle Leakage Test
1. Bolt the tester securely to the test bench.
A nozzle that leaks fuel from the nozzle orifice must be
2. Use a drain pan to catch fuel. replaced.

3. Flush the adapter by pumping the handle of the tester 1. Securely fasten the nozzle to the adapter.
slowly several times before attaching the nozzle to be
tested. 2. Wipe all fuel from the nozzle.

Injection Pressure Test 3. Operate the pump until the pressure is approximately
108 kg/cm2 (1500 psi). Maintain this pressure to the
The diesel engine requires that fuel be sprayed into the nozzle.
combustion chamber at a precise point in the compres-
sion stroke. The point at which this fuel injection occurs 4. Watch for leaks where the threaded nozzle body
is determined by the injection timing. If the nozzle is threads into the retaining nut. Leaks in this area would
defective, damaged or adjusted incorrectly, starting fail- indicate a bad seat between the distance piece and/or
ures, low power output, or engine knocking can occur. the body or nozzle assembly.

1. Securely fasten the nozzle to the adapter. 5. If leakage occurs, verify that the body is tightly fas-
tened in the retaining nut. If the leak continues, replace
2. Pump the handle several times to purge air from the the nozzle.
nozzle mechanism.

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 6. While pressure is being applied, watch for an accu-
mulation of fuel at the tip of the nozzle (Fig. 18). A small
amount of fuel may be present due to a previous chat-
tering test - this would be normal. If the fuel accumulates
and drips down during the test (about ten seconds) the
nozzle assembly is defective and must be replaced.

Spray Test

For proper combustion, the nozzle must effectively at-

omize the injected fuel.

1. Operate the pump handle at a rate of 20 - 30 strokes

per minute.
Figure 18
2. Observe the injector nozzle spray. The spray pattern
should be finely atomized in a broad, straight stream
(Fig. 19).

3. If the nozzle fails to spray properly, it must be cleaned,

repaired or replaced. (See Nozzle Service in the Fuel
System Repairs section of this chapter.)

Figure 19

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 Injection Pump Test
Calibration of fuel delivery volumes, pressure and dis- D. Put the throttle control in the FAST position. Turn
tribution between pump barrels should be performed by the ignition key to the START position to crank the
a professional diesel engine service shop. Special test engine. Observe the nozzle.
fixtures and equipment are required.

It is possible to determine if the fuel injection pump

requires service through a process of elimination using
other fuel system tests. The following test procedure will The injection pump forces fuel from the noz-
help isolate fuel system difficulties. zle under extremely high pressure. Always
point the nozzle tip away from yourself and
1. Make sure that fuel is being supplied to the injector any other personnel. Contact with the fuel
pump. (See Fuel Pump Test in this section and Bleeding stream, even though it appears to be a mist
Air From the Fuel System in the Fuel System Repairs can cause fuel to penetrate clothing and skin.
section of this section.) If fuel is injected into the skin get proper
medical attention from a doctor immediately.
2. Check the operating condition of the injection nozzles A serious infection or other reaction can de-
to make sure that the injection pressure is correct. (See velop if the injury is not properly treated.
Injection Pressure Test in this section of the book.) Tighten all adapter fittings to prevent leaks. If
a leak is suspected, use a piece of cardboard,
3. Make sure that the injection pump is providing suffi- not your hands to search for a leak.
cient fuel pressure to operate the nozzle by performing
the following procedures:
If the nozzle produces an atomized mist of fuel the
A. Loosen the fuel delivery pipe from the number one injector pump for that cylinder is operating properly.
nozzle. Failure of the nozzle to inject fuel can indicate a injection
pump cylinder that is not operating correctly.
B. Remove the nozzle from the cylinder head.
5. Repeat the test for the other cylinders.
C. Connect the fuel delivery pipe to the nozzle as-
sembly so the tip of the nozzle is pointed away from
the engine. Tighten the fitting securely.

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 Injection Timing Test (Fig. 20, 21)
Injection timing can be adjusted by installing shims 7. Standard injection timing can be confirmed by the IT
under the pump body. The timing is important because marks on the crankshaft pulley and the stationary
it determines when the fuel enters the combustion pointer on the crankcase (Fig. 21).
chamber.
The center mark on the pulley represents 23o BTDC;
The most accurate method of timing is done with an standard fuel injection timing. The outside marks repre-
electronic diesel timing tester (available from major tool sent 25o BTDC and 21o BTDC; the acceptable range of
supply companies). injection timing.

The following method is an initial setting for starting the Shims are available in different sizes from 0.2 to 1.0 mm
machine. thick. Adding or removing a shim, 0.1 mm thick, will
change injection timing by 1o. Increase shim thickness
1. Remove the number one injection pipe from both the if injection is too early. Decrease shim thickness if
pump and nozzle. (The number 1 cylinder is opposite injection is too late. (See Injection Pump Service in the
from the flywheel end of the engine.) Fuel System Repairs section of this chapter.)

2. Set up the injection pump for the test:

A. Remove the delivery valve holder (Fig. 20). Re-

move the delivery valve assembly and spring.

B. Replace the valve holder and tighten it in place.

3. Put the throttle control in the middle of its range of

travel.

4. Slowly rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise from

the flywheel end (normal rotation) until the IT marks
(injection timing marks) on the crankshaft pulley are
approximately 1/2 in. (21 mm) from alignment with the Figure 20
stationary pointer on the engine gear case (Fig. 21).
Make sure the number 1 cylinder compression stroke is Removing the delivery valve
approaching by checking the push rods. Both push rods
on the number 1 cylinder should be loose and the valves
closed. If either push rod is tight, rotate the engine
crankshaft one full revolution and inspect the push rods
again.

5. Turn the ignition switch ON so the electric fuel pump

will supply fuel through the injection pump and out the
number 1 delivery valve holder.

6. Rotate the engine crankshaft SLOWLY in the normal

direction until the flow from the number one injection
pipe just stops. This is the moment of actual injection
timing. (A large screwdriver inserted between the trans-
mission drive hub and rubber coupler will provide control Figure 21
and leverage to slowly rotate the engine crankshaft.)

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 Fuel Pump Test (Fig. 22)
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Test for
pump operation by listening for the pump oscillating
sound, or by feeling for vibration which indicates the
pump is operating.

2. If no pumping action occurs when the ignition switch

is turned on, connect a 12 volt DC battery directly to the
pump (Fig. 22). If the pump now operates, check for an
electrical failure of the pump circuit, eg. fuses, connec-
tions, wires, etc.

3. The delivery of the fuel pump may be checked by

disconnecting the fuel lines from the water separator
and fuel filter and routing them to a can of filtered diesel
fuel and a drain pan (Fig. 22). Activate the pump and
measure the amount of fuel pumped in during a 15
second time interval. The standard pump rate is approxi-
mately 8 ounces (225 cc) in 15 seconds. Figure 22
4. If the fuel delivery rate is below the standard value
the pump should be disassembled and checked. (See
Fuel Pump Service in the Fuel System Repairs section
of this chapter.)

Thermostat Test (Fig. 23)

If the engine overheats and a faulty thermostat is sus-
pected, the thermostat should be tested.

1. Remove the thermostat (see Thermostat Removal

and Installation in the External Engine Component Re-
pair section of this chapter).

2. Put the thermostat in a container of water with a

thermometer and heat the water (Fig. 23).

Valve cracking temperature: 76.5o C (177o F).

Full-open temperature: 90o C (194o F)
Valve lift: 8 mm (0.314 in.)

3. If the thermostat fails to open, only partially opens, or

sticks, it should be replaced. Figure 23

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 Preparation for Engine Repair
1. Before cleaning and disassembly, carefully check for engine oil to disassembled parts, as necessary to pre-
problems that cannot be found after the engine has vent rust.
been cleaned or disassembled (e.g. oil leaks from
cracked components, gaskets or loose fittings, dam- 5. Keep the work area clean; dirt causes engine failures.
aged air cleaner or breather hoses that could cause
cylinder wear, etc.). Make a note of any problems that 6. Be very careful when working on fuel system compo-
you find. nents. Cover the work area with clean paper. Store
components of the nozzles or injector pump in clean fuel
2. Clean or wash the engine exterior thoroughly before oil. Do not allow components to strike each other or
disassembly. other objects. Wet hands with clean diesel fuel before
handling these parts.
IMPORTANT: Do not spray water on a hot engine.
Injection pump seizure or other failures could Engine Compression
result.
The time interval to overhaul the engine can most
3. Do not disassemble or remove parts that do not accurately be determined by regular and systematic
require disassembly. cylinder compression measurement. (See Compres-
sion Test in the Testing section of this chapter.)
4. Disassemble the engine in proper order, arranging
the parts the disassembled parts neatly. Apply clean

Cylinder and Cylinder Block Overhaul

Before removing any parts, disassembly or overhaul of list can be a result of excessive fuel injection, improper
the Mitsubishi engine, it is very important to understand injection timing, or nozzle and injection pump wear. Poor
the nature and probable cause of the problem that made starting may be a result of electrical problems. Noises
an overhaul necessary. may be associated with a mechanical part outside the
engine. Excess fuel or oil consumption may be the result
When the engine trouble is caused by worn cylinders, of leaks. (See the Troubleshooting section of this chap-
rings or valves, one or more of the following symptoms ter.)
will occur:
Another indicator of the need for an overhaul is oil
1. Low engine power, and a decrease in compression consumption. Make sure the engine does not leak oil.
pressure. when the oil consumption between the oil change main-
tenance interval is approximately 1-1/2 times normal
2. Increased fuel consumption. (150%), engine overhaul should be considered.

3. Increased lubricating oil consumption. With a good knowledge of how the engine operates,
access to maintenance and compression test records,
4. Poor engine starting. and information in the Troubleshooting section of this
chapter, unnecessary disassembly and inspection can
5. Loud noises in the engine. be eliminated.

It is important to find the cause of the engine failure

before beginning repair. Symptoms 2 and 3 in the above

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 External Engine Component Repair
In this section, repairs to the external engine compo- Crankcase Breather
nents will be outlined. These are repairs which can be Fan, Pulley, Bearing and Shaft Repair or Replacement
accomplished without removing the engine from the Oil Pressure Switch Replacement
mower frame. They are: Oil Pump
Stop Solenoid Replacement
Water Pump Replacement

Crankcase Breather System (Fig. 24)

The crankcase breather system is shown in the illustra-
tion. Blow-by fumes are recirculated for recombustion
without being discharged into the atmosphere. The
fumes within the cylinder block flow into the rocker cover
through holes in the valve tappets and the push rod
clearance holes. They are carried through a rubber air
breather pipe from the rocker cover to the inlet pipe, and
then to the combustion chamber. The air breather pipe
(rubber hose) should be replaced if it is damaged or
shows any sign of deterioration.

Failure to periodically inspect this hose, or to replace a

faulty hose, will allow dirt to enter directly into the engine
cylinder, and can cause premature engine wear or
damage.

Figure 24

Crankcase breather system

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 Alternator Belt Service (Fig. 25)
1. Unlatch and open hood.

2. Check tension by depressing belt midway between

alternator and crankshaft pulleys. Belt should deflect
7/16 in. (11 mm). If deflection is incorrect, proceed to
step 3. If correct, continue operation.

3. Loosen bolt securing brace to engine and bolt secur-

ing alternator to brace.

4. Insert pry bar between alternator and engine and pry

out alternator.

5. Hold alternator in position after proper belt tension Figure 25

setting is achieved and tighten alternator and brace
bolts to secure adjustment. 1. Alternator 4. Brace
2. Engine brace bolt 5. Fan belt guard
3. Alternator brace bolt

Fan Belt Service (Fig. 25, 26)

1. Unlatch and open hood.

2. Remove capscrews (5) securing fan belt guard and

remove guard.

3. Belt should deflect 1/4 in. (6 mm) midway between

pulleys with 5 lbf (22 N) of force applied. If deflection is
incorrect, proceed to step 4. If correct proceed to step 5.

4. Loosen locknut securing idler pulley. Push idler pulley

against belt until proper deflection is achieved and
tighten idler pulley locknut.

5. Install fan belt guard and secure with capscrews.

Close and latch hood. Figure 26

To replace belt: 1. 1/4 in. (6 mm) deflection

2. Idler pulley locknut
1. Do steps 1 and 2 above.

2. Loosen locknut securing idler pulley, slide pulley

away from belt and remove belt from top and bottom
pulleys.

3. Install new belt and adjust for proper tension. Push

idler pulley against belt until belt deflects 1/4 in. (6 mm)
with 5 lbf (22 N) of force applied midway between top
and bottom pulleys. Tighten idler pulley locknut to se-
cure adjustment.

4. Install fan belt guard and secure with capscrews.

Close and latch hood.

NOTE: Check fan belt tension after first days of opera-

tion. Readjust tension, if necessary.

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 Fan, Fan Pulley and Fan Shaft Service (Fig. 27)

Fan Assembly Removal Fan Assembly Inspection

1. Park the machine on a level surface, turn engine off, 1. Inspect fan for cracks; replace fan if damaged.
remove key from switch, and apply the parking brake.
2. Inspect shaft and tube for signs of wear in bearing
2. Remove five capscrews which secure fan belt guard areas; replace if bearings are loose and a press-fit is not
and remove guard. possible.

3. Loosen locknut securing idler pulley. Slide pulley to 3. Rotate bearings; replace them if they do not rotate
right to remove tension from fan V-belt and slip belt off smoothly, or if there is noticeable play in them.
of flywheel and fan pulleys.

4. Use a hoist connected to the two engine hangers to

support the rear of the engine.

IMPORTANT: Position lift chain underneath fan

shaft tube to prevent damage to tube.

NOTE: An alternate method is to put a sturdy board

beneath oil pan and use a floor jack to support engine.

5. Remove two cap screws which pass through rubber

engine mounts. If shims are used between rubber
mounts and metal engine mount (bar), be sure to note
their locations and reinstall them correctly.

6. Remove two cap screws which fasten fan mount to

the rear of engine block. These are located just above
edge of flywheel.

7. Remove four cap screws which secure fan mount to

front of cylinder head, cylinder block and muffler
bracket.

8. Remove fan assembly from machine.

9. Remove cotter pins, slotted nuts, woodruff keys and

washers from ends of the fan shaft. Note number and
placement of washers.

10. Remove pulley from end of shaft (it may be neces­

sary to use a puller).

11. Remove cap screws and lock washers which retain

fan to fan hub. Remove fan hub and woodruff key from
shaft.

NOTE: If bearings or mating tube and shaft surfaces are

not worn or damaged do not disassemble.

12. Press shaft and fan-side bearing from tube by

pressing on belt pulley end of shaft. Inner races of
bearings are pressed onto shaft and fit against shoul­
ders on shaft; both bearings are also pressed into tube
ends.

13. Press remaining bearing from tube by applying

pressure to bearing outer race.

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 Fan Assembly Installation
8 1
6 3
1. Clean inside of pulley end of tube and outside diame- 7 7
4
ter of pulley end bearing. Apply Loctite #609 (or equiva- 5
lent) to outside diameter of bearing and press bearing 3
2
into pulley end of tube.

2. Insert shaft through tube and into installed bearing. 2

Support inner race of bearing as shaft is being installed
into bearing.

3. Position second bearing (no Loctite on this bearing) 1

onto fan end of shaft. Press bearing into tube.

4. Position woodruff key in fan shaft and slide pulley

onto shaft. Fit flat washer and shim washer(s) to shaft
and install slotted hex nut. Torque nut from 50 to 70 ft–lb
Figure 1
(68 to 94 N–m).
1. Slotted hex nut 5. Woodruff key
2. Cotter pin 6. Fan hub
5. Position woodruff key in fan shaft and slide fan hub 3. Flat washer 7. Bearing
onto shaft. Install fan to fan hub with cap screws and 4. Fan shaft 8. Shim washer
lock washers. Fit flat washer and shim washer(s) to
shaft and install slotted hex nut. Torque nut from 50 to
70 ft–lb (68 to 94 N–m).

IMPORTANT: If hex nut slot and cotter pin shaft

hole do not align after applying correct torque to
slotted hex nut, remove nut and add shim washers
until alignment is correct. DO NOT loosen nut to
align the slot and hole.

6. Install new cotter pins through slotted nut and fan

shaft to retain both pulley and fan hub.

7. Reinstall fan assembly onto engine by performing re-

moval steps 1 through 8 in reverse order.

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 Glow Plug Replacement
If a glow plug has been determined to be defective by 3. Remove the defective glow plug from its mounting
failing the glow plug test, it should be replaced. hole.

1. Remove the nut and lead wire. 4. Install the replacement glow plug. Torque the glow
plug to 11 - 14.5 ft-lb (1.5 - 2 KgM).
2. Clean the area around the glow plug to prevent dirt
or grit from falling into the glow plug hole and the cylinder 5. Reinstall the lead wires and nuts.
during replacement.

Oil Pressure Switch Replacement (Fig. 28)

The engine is equipped with an oil pressure switch
which activates a lamp and buzzer on the control panel
if the oil pressure drops below safe levels during opera-
tion. The switch is located on the oil pump at the rear of
the right-hand side of the cylinder block.

The switch and lamp circuit can be tested with a 12 VDC

battery. With the switch removed the warning

lamp should light and buzzer sound when it is connected

in series with the switch and battery. Removing the
switch from the circuit will test the lamp and buzzer only.

If the switch is defective it should be replaced. Use a

small amount of LOCTITE #567 Thread Sealant (or Figure 28
equivalent) on the switch threads. Be careful to install
the switch carefully so that the sealant will not block the
oil hole in the switch.

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 Oil Pump Servicing
The oil pump is a trochoid gear type pump, mounted to
the rear of the fuel injection pump, and driven by the fuel
injection pump camshaft. The pump houses a check
valve which opens to the oil pan when the pump delivery
pressure exceeds 57 psi (393 kPa), thereby preventing
excessive oil pressure.

Disassembly of Oil Pump (Fig. 29)

1. Drain the engine oil.

2. Remove the oil filter. The use of a filter wrench may

be necessary. Figure 29
3. Remove the four bolts which hold the pump cover in
place and attach the pump to the cylinder block.

4. Remove the pump cover, body and rotors and gasket.

Oil Pump Inspection (Fig. 30, 31, 32)

The oil pump, or its worn components, should be re-

placed when internal pump clearances exceed those
shown in the table above.

1. Outer Rotor to body clearance should be checked

with a feeler gauge. If clearance exceeds the service Figure 30
limit, replace the rotor assembly.

2. Outer rotor to Inner Rotor clearance should be

checked with a feeler gauge. If clearance exceeds the
service limit, replace the rotor assembly. Check the
coupling end of the Inner Rotor shaft for cracks or
damage.

3. Rotor to cover clearance should be check with a feeler

gauge by placing the rotor assembly in the pump body
and using the cover as a straight edge.

In case of excessive clearance, replace either the Rotor Figure 31

Assembly or the Oil Pump Body.

4. Inspect the Pump Body 0-ring for cuts, cracks or other

damage.

5. The Pump Relief Valve can be disassembled by

removing the plug, gasket, spring and plunger. Ensure
that the Relief Plunger travels freely, and that the drain
holes in the Plunger are not blocked.

Figure 32

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 Oil Pump Reassembly (Fig. 33)

1. Install the Plunger, Spring, Gasket and Plug of the Oil

Relief Valve into the Pump Cover.

2. Verify that the dowel pins are in place, and install the
0-ring in the pump body (if replaced or removed).

3. Place the Rotor Assembly into the Pump Body. Apply

oil to the rotating parts.

NOTE: The Inner and Outer Rotors have a dimple which

faces outward from the Pump Body.

4. Place the Pump Body, along with a new oil Pump Figure 33
Body Gasket, in position, and rotate the rotor assembly
until the inner rotor shaft couples with the slot in the
injector pump cam shaft.

5. Position the Pump Cover on the dowel pins and

secure the pump into positions with the four bolts,
washers, and lock washers. Torque the bolts to 12 -
13 ft-lb (1.7 KgM).

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 Stop Solenoid Replacement (Fig. 34)
The Mitsubishi engine uses an electrical solenoid to
shut off the fuel supply and stop the engine. An emer-
gency stop lever is provided in case the stop solenoid
fails. If a solenoid failure is suspected, it can be checked
by attaching 12 VDC battery leads to the solenoid
terminals. If the solenoid operates when battery contact
is make the stopping failure is elsewhere in the electrical
system (refer to Chapter 6).

1. Turn the engine off (with emergency stop lever if

necessary), and remove the key from the ignition switch.

2. Disconnect the solenoid wires from the main wire

harness.
Figure 34
3. Loosen the nut securing the solenoid to the engine
and unscrew the solenoid. (Use a 36 mm wrench.)

4. Remove the gasket and the nut and install them on

the new solenoid. Thread the nut fully onto the solenoid.
Remove the cap from the old solenoid.

5. Start to thread the solenoid into the cylinder block.

6. Push the plunger on the solenoid fully in and hold it

in this position.

7. Rotate the emergency engine stop lever to the STOP

position (counterclockwise).

8. Continue to hold the solenoid plunger in and thread

the solenoid into the cylinder block until the inner end of
the plunger contacts the control rack of injector pump.
Contact will be indicated when the outside end of the
plunger is pushed away from the solenoid body.

9. When contact is indicated, discontinue threading the

solenoid into the cylinder block. Turn the solenoid slowly
outward until the plunger again contacts the solenoid
body, then rotate the solenoid body one eighth turn
further out.

10. Hold the solenoid body to prevent it from turning and

tighten the nut against the cylinder block to secure the
adjustment. DO NOT over tighten the nut or the solenoid
may become distorted causing it to malfunction.

11. Connect the solenoid wires, install the cover.

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 Water Pump Servicing
The water pump is a centrifugal impeller type pump Water Pump Inspection
which is mounted on the front upper part of the cylinder
block. The pump bearings and seals are not service- 1. Inspect all hoses for cracks or leaks.
able.
2. Rotate the water pump impeller and shaft. If the
Water Pump Removal bearings do not rotate smoothly, or are noisy, the water
pump must be replaced; the water pump has no replace-
1. Drain the coolant from the radiator and cylinder block able components.
(drain plug on the left-hand side of the block).
Water Pump Reassembly
2. Disconnect the water hoses.
Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly. Use a new
3. Remove the V-belt which drives the water pump. water pump gasket to avoid leaks.

4. Disconnect the water bypass hose. now move freely when operated by hand. If it does not,
difficulty with the injection pump should be suspected.
5. Remove the six bolts fastening the water pump to the
cylinder block.

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 Fuel System Service
When cleaning the engine, DO NOT spray water onto a tolerance parts of the fuel system can be easily dam-
hot injection pump. This could cause the fuel pump to aged by dirt.
seize and be damaged.
Wash fuel system parts in clean fresh diesel fuel. If parts
When working on the fuel system, ALWAYS make sure are removed for a period of time, store them in contain-
that the equipment and work area is clean. The close ers of clean diesel fuel to prevent corrosion.

Bleeding the Fuel System (Fig. 35, 36)

1. Stop the engine and engage the parking brake.
Unlatch and raise hood.

2. Loosen the air bleed screw on the fuel filter / water

separator.

3. Turn the ignition key switch to the ON position. The

electric fuel pump will begin to operate and force fuel
out around the screw loosened in step 2. Fuel will fill the
filter bowl and then flow out around the screw. When a
solid stream of fuel flows out around the screw, tighten
the screw and turn the key switch OFF.

4. Open the air bleed screw on the fuel injection pump.

Figure 35
5. Turn the ignition key switch to the ON position. The
electric fuel pump will begin to operate and force fuel 1. Fuel filter/water separator 2. Air bleed screw
out around the injection pump air vent screw. When a
solid stream of fuel flows out around the screw, tighten
the screw and turn the key switch OFF.

NOTE: Normally the engine should start after this pro-

cedure. If the engine does not start, air may be trapped
between the injection pump and injectors (See Bleeding
Air From the Injectors in this section of the book.)

Figure 36

1. Fuel injection pump 2. Air bleed screw

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 Bleeding Air From the Injectors (Fig. 37)
This procedure should only be used if the fuel system
has been purged of air. (See Bleeding the Fuel System
in this section of the book.)

1. Loosen the pipe connection at the number 1 nozzle

and holder assembly on the cylinder head .

2. Move the throttle control to the FAST position.

3. Turn the ignition key to the START position to crank

the engine and pump fuel to the nozzles. Turn the
ignition key to the OFF position when a steady stream
of fuel flows out of the loose pipe connection.

4. Tighten the pipe connector. Figure 37

5. Repeat steps 1 - 4 for the No. 2 and No. 3 injector

nozzle and holder.

Fuel Pump Service (Fig. 38)

The only serviceable parts of the fuel pump are the
magnet, filter, and the gaskets on each end of the filter.

1. Disconnect the fuel pump wires from the wiring har-

ness and ground connection.

2. Disconnect the fuel hoses from the pump. Plug the

fuel lines.

3. Remove the two screws which secure the pump to

the frame.

4. Use a 17 mm wrench to remove the cover from the

fuel pump. Remove the gasket, magnet and filter ele-
ment. Figure 38

1. Cover 4. Filter
2. Cover gasket 5. Body
3. Magnet

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 5. Carefully remove the spring retainer from the end of
the plunger tube. Remove the washer, o-ring, valve,
plunger spring and plunger.

IMPORTANT: Be careful not to bend or deform the

plunger tube while disassembling the fuel pump. If
the plunger tube is bent, the fuel pump plunger will
bind and the pump will need to be replaced.

6. Install the plunger (valve side out), plunger spring,

valve, o-ring, washer and spring retainer. Make sure the
plunger operates freely.

7. Install the filter and cover gaskets, magnet, filter and

cover. Tighten the cover to prevent air leaks. Figure 39

8. Install the fuel pump to the frame. Connect the fuel 1. Spring retainer 5. Plunger spring
lines and electrical wires. 2. Washer 6. Plunger
3. O-ring 7. Plunger tube
4. Valve 8. Body
9. Bleed the fuel system. (See Bleeding the Fuel System
in this section of the book.)

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 Governor Mechanism Operation
Operation of the governor keeps the engine speed through the tie rod, in the direction that decreases the
constant as the centrifugal force acting on the governor amount of fuel delivered by the injection pump. A leaf
weights balances with the tension of the governor spring on the tie rod cover is used to prevent stalling
spring. during rapid deceleration by limiting the travel of the tie
rod.
As the engine speed increases the governor weights will
open, forcing the end of the sliding shaft against the Servicing the governor requires removal of the gear
governor lever. The governor lever then moves against case on the front of the engine, and there for engine
the governor spring tension and moves the control rack, removal.

Governor Inspection (Engine Not Removed) (Fig. 40)

A governor failure can result in a starting failure loss of
engine speed control, or engine surging (hunting). Be-
fore removal and disassembly of the engine the follow-
ing inspections are recommended:

1. Remove the tie rod cover and operate the speed

control lever. The injection pump control rack should
move as the lever is operated.

2. If the control rack does not move, remove the tie rod
retaining spring and tie rod from the control rack. The
control rack should now move freely when operated by
hand. If it does not, difficulty with the injection pump
should be suspected.

3. With the tie rod removed from the control rack,

operate the speed control lever and watch for tie rod
travel. Failure of the tie rod to move would indicate
difficulty with the governor spring, governor lever or
other internal parts. Refer to “Removing and Replacing
the Engine” for engine removal instructions.

Figure 40

1. Injection pump 6. Sliding shaft 11. Idle gear

2. Stopper spring 7. Gear case 12. Needle bearing
3. Tie rod 8. Governor shaft 13. Needle bearing
4. Governor lever 9. Pump gear 14. Governor spring
5. Governor weight 10. Pump camshaft 15. Speed control lever

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 Injection Pump Servicing (Fig. 41)
A built-in three-cylinder injection pump is mounted

on the right-hand side of the cylinder block. It

consists of a pump element (plunger and barrel assem-

bly), a delivery valve, a tappet and a smoke set unit. As
the pump cam rotates, the plunger is moved up and
down through a prescribed stroke, delivering fuel to the
engine cylinders. A key operated stop system is pro-
vided.

Fuel Injection Control

The fuel injection rate is controlled by changing the

effective stroke of the plunger within the barrel. The
plunger is rotated by the control pinion which meshes
with the plunger lower collar to directly turn the plunger.

As the engine turns, the injection pump camshaft rotates

to move the control rack by way of the governor weights,
governor sleeve, and lever. The control rack slides to
turn the control pinions. Movement of the control rack to
the right decreases the fuel injection rate and movement
to the left increases the rate.

Figure 41

1. Air vent screw 11. Spring

2. Stopper 12. Delivery valve
3. Control rack 13. Valve seat
4. Return spring 14. Plunger barrel
5. Gasket 15. Adjusting plate
6. O-ring 16. Control pinion
7. Plunger 17. Upper seat
8. Lower seat 18. Plunger spring
9. Tappet 19. Pump housing
10. Valve holder

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 Control Rack Smoke Set and Ungleich Device
(Fig. 42, 43, 44)

The injection pump on the is equipped with a mecha-

nism that allows for over injection of fuel during starting,
and thereafter limits the amount of fuel delivered during
operation to reduce excessive exhaust smoke. These
devices, the smoke set plate and Ungleich set plate, are
located on the side of the injection pump and operate
by limiting the travel of the control rack.

The Ungleich device requires that the engine be OFF,

either with the key switch or emergency stop lever, in
order for the control rack to travel completely to the left
(over-injection). Once started, the action of the governor Figure 42
causes the control rack to move to the right (less fuel)
until the corner of the smoke set plate engages the
shoulder of the Ungleich set plate. The amount of control
rack movement is now restricted by the locations of the
smoke set plate and the Ungleich set plate.

During extreme loading the control rack will overcome

the tension on the smoke set spring and slightly in-
crease the amount of fuel delivered to the cylinders. This
fuel increase is determined by the Ungleich set plate
and is referred to as Ungleich Effect “L” (length).

Figure 43

Figure 44

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 Delivery Valve Operation (Fig. 45)

The delivery valve serves two functions. First, the valve

opens to deliver fuel to the delivery pipe when the
pressure generated by the stroke of the plunger within
the barrel is sufficiently high. The pressure must be high
enough to cause the injector nozzle to open. Second,
after injection into the cylinder the Delivery Valve closes,
reducing the pressure within the delivery pipe to nearly
zero while preventing fuel from flowing from the tube.

Figure 45

Inter-Cylinder Injection Control (Fig. 46)

The amount of fuel delivered to each of the three cylin-

ders is adjusted by means of adjusting plates. These
plates function as a cam to position the plunger barrel
within the pump housing.

IMPORTANT: Do not remove the Adjusting Plates

from the pump housing. If removed, re-calibration
by a diesel shop will be necessary.

If it is necessary to remove the plates, carefully scribe

the plate and pump body to allow for exact, correct
reassembly.
Figure 46

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 Injection Pump Disassembly (Fig. 47)

The injection pump may be disassembled to replace

worn, damaged or defective components according to
the following procedures:

IMPORTANT: Clean external engine area near injec-

tion pump before disassembly. Do not spray water
on a hot injection pump. Do not remove Inter-cylin-
der adjusting plates unless necessary. If necessary,
scribe plates and housing carefully to ensure exact
repositioning upon reinstallation. Do not mix deliv-
ery valves, delivery valve seats, plungers or plunger
barrels from one cylinder to another. Handle these
parts carefully. Place these parts in clean diesel fuel
to prevent rust.

1. Remove the fuel pipes from the injection pump to the

injector nozzles.

2. Remove the fuel return hose by disconnecting the

collar from the pump, or by removing the hose clamp.

3. Remove the tie rod cover. Disconnect the Tie Rod

retaining spring and Tie Rod from the Control Rack.

4. Remove the four injection pump mounting bolts.

Figure 47
5. Remove the injection pump from the cylinder block. 1. E-ring 15. O-ring
Make note of the number and thickness of the adjusting 2. Ungleich set spring 16. Delivery valve holder
shims under the pump. The shims determine the injec- 3. Ungleich set plate 17. Bolt/washer
tion timing. 4. Pump housing 18. Adjusting plate
5. E-ring 19. Tappet guide pin
6. Straighten the locking tabs on the plate which retains 6. Return spring 20. Plate
7. Smoke set plate 21. Control rack
the Tappet Guide Pin). Rotate the pin 180", push in on
8. Air breather screw 22. Plunger control sleeve
the Tappet slightly and remove the Guide Pin and Tap- 9. Washer 23. Upper spring seat
pet. 10. Hollow screw 24. Pump plunger spring
11. Pump element ass’y 25. Lower spring seat
7. Remove the Lower Seat, Plunger Spring, Upper Seat, 12. Delivery valve ass’y 26. Shim plate
Control Pinion and Plunger. 13. Gasket 27. Tappet
14. Delivery valve spring

8. Remove the Delivery Valve Holder, Gasket, 0-ring,

Valve Spring and Delivery Valve. Push the barrel as-
sembly out from below.

9. Remove the components of the other two injector

pumps using the same procedure.

10. To remove the Control Rod, remove the E-rings,

Ungleich set spring, and Ungleich set plate. Slide the
rack from the pump body.

11. To remove the smoke set plate, remove the cotter

pin, washer and return spring.

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 Injection Pump Inspection (Fig. 48)

1. Inspect the contact surfaces of the delivery valve

seat. Replace the Delivery Valve Assembly if defective.

2. Inspect the plunger and barrel for wear, damage or

rust. Check to see that the plunger slides smoothly in
the barrel. Replace the Pump Element Sub-Assembly if
defective.

3. Inspect the Control Rack and Pinions for worn or

damaged teeth. Replace worn or damaged compo-
nents.

4. Inspect the Tappet outside diameters, rollers and Figure 48

shafts for wear or damage. Replace damaged or worn
components.

Injection Pump Reassembly (Fig. 49, 50)

NOTE: Wash each part thoroughly in clean diesel fuel

as it is reassembled.

1. Install the Control Rack, Smoke Set and Ungleich

plates, retainer springs and fasteners.

2. If the adjusting plate assemblies have been removed,

reinstall them, paying careful attention to install them
according to the marks scribed on the pump housing
and plates.

3. Install the Plunger Barrel into the bore in the top of

the Pump Housing. Make sure that the groove in the
barrel aligns with the pin in the side of the bore.
Figure 49
4. Install the delivery valve and seat, gasket, spring,
0-ring and Valve Holder and hand tighten the assembly. Alignment of pinions and control rack
Be careful not to damage the 0-ring when installing it
onto the valve holder.

5. Install the control pinion by positioning it so that the

deeply cut tooth is aligned with the grooves in the
Control Rack.

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 6. Install the upper spring seat and spring.

7. Assemble the lower spring seat to the plunger. Insert

the plunger into the barrel with the side of the plunger
collar marked “L” towards the control rack.

NOTE: the collar and pinion are designed to prevent

incorrect installation.

8. Insert the tappet carefully to avoid dropping the shim.

Align the tappet guide hole with the hole for the tappet
guide pin. Install the guide pin locking plate and guide
pin. Rotate the guide pin to lock its edge under the lip
on the pump housing and lock the pin by bending the
plate tab.

9. Torque the Delivery Valve Holder to 28.9 - 36.2 ft-lb

(4 - 5 KgM). Ensure that the control rack slides smoothly,
with little resistance. Sliding force should be 1.75 oz. (50
g) or less. If the rack binds, it is assembled incorrectly
or parts are dirty, and it must be reassembled or
cleaned.

10. Repeat the procedure for the other remaining cylin-

ders.

11. Install the injection pump to the cylinder block. Make

certain that the same number and size shims that were Figure 50
under the pump when removed are replaced correctly. 1. E-ring 15. O-ring
2. Ungleich set spring 16. Delivery valve holder
12. Connect the Tie Rod and Tie Rod Retaining Spring 3. Ungleich set plate 17. Bolt/washer
to the Control Rack. 4. Pump housing 18. Adjusting plate
5. E-ring 19. Tappet guide pin
13. Push the control rack to the high speed position (left) 6. Return spring 20. Plate
7. Smoke set plate 21. Control rack
and reinstall the tie rod cover using a new cover gasket.
8. Air breather screw 22. Plunger control sleeve
9. Washer 23. Upper spring seat
14. Reassemble the fuel return line and delivery pipes. 10. Hollow screw 24. Pump plunger spring
11. Pump element ass’y 25. Lower spring seat
15. Bleed the air from the fuel system. Refer to “Bleeding 12. Delivery valve ass’y 26. Shim plate
Air From Fuel System,”. 13. Gasket 27. Tappet
14. Delivery valve spring

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 Injection Pump Pressure and Delivery Rate

Injection pump pressure and the delivery rate of the

pump, as well as inter-cylinder delivery rates must be
determined by the use of specialized equipment. If
difficulties with the injection pump are suspected the
help of a competent diesel engine service shop should
be sought.

Injection Pump Timing and Adjustment

Adjusting the shim thicknesses as explained on, “Injec-

tion Timing Test,” will adjust the injection timing.

NOTE: If timing requires adjustment, and the engine has

not been worked on, or the shim thickness changed, the
injection pump components and camshaft should be
inspected for wear or damage.

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 Nozzle Servicing (Fig. 51)
The fuel from the injection pump flows through the 2. Remove carbon or lacquer deposits from the nozzle
injection pipes to the nozzle. During the injection stroke by cleaning in clean diesel fuel. Stubborn deposits may
of the pump, pressurized fuel builds up in the nozzle. be removed with brass wired brush.
When the pressure becomes sufficiently high, the noz-
zle valve opens and a spray of fuel is injected into the IMPORTANT: Do not use a steel brush, steel wool,
combustion chamber where it is ignited due to the heat etc. or the nozzle hole or pin tip may become dam-
produced by the cylinder compression. If the nozzle aged and need to be replaced.
does not function properly, starting failure, low power
output, or engine knocking can occur. 3. Clean the flange, body, shim, spring, pin and distance
piece in clean diesel fuel. Replace any worn or damaged
IMPORTANT: When servicing the injection nozzles parts.
make certain that the engine and fuel delivery pipes
are clean in order to prevent dirt from entering the Reassembly and Test
cylinder or nozzle. Do not mix components of one
nozzle with another. 1. Install the nozzle assembly, distance piece and pres-
sure pin into the retaining nut.
Nozzle Testing
2. Install the shim, pressure spring and flange in the
Refer to “Nozzle Tests” for complete instructions. body. Assemble the body to the retaining nut. Torque the
body and nut to 43 - 58 ft-lb (6 - 8 KgM).
Nozzle Removal and Disassembly
3. Test the reassembled nozzle for proper operation.
1. Remove the fuel overflow line from the Refer to “Nozzle Tests.”

nipple on the nozzle body. Installation

2. Disconnect the fuel injection pipe from the nozzle 1. Install a new nozzle holder gasket onto the nozzle.
body.
2. Position the nozzle assembly on the head and install
3. Remove the two bolts which pass through the nozzle the bolts through the flange. Alternate tightening the
flange and remove the nozzle assembly from the cylin- bolts to ensure even pressure on both sides of the
der head. Remove the copper nozzle holder gasket. flange. Torque the bolts to 11 - 15 ft-lb (1.5 - 2 KgM).

NOTE: Further disassembly of the nozzle is not required

for testing purposes.

4. Secure the retaining nut in a vise which is equipped

with aluminum or brass jawplates and loosen the nozzle
body with a wrench.

5. Remove the nozzle body, shim, pressure spring,

flange, pressure pin and distance piece.

6. Remove the nozzle from the retaining nut. If it is

difficult to remove, tap it lightly with a rubber or wooden
mallet. Be careful not to hit or damage the protruding tip
of the nozzle needle valve.

Inspection and Cleaning

1. Clean the inside and outside of the retaining nut in

clean diesel fuel to remove carbon or fuel deposits.
Inspect the lower seating surface for rust or damage. Figure 51
The sealing area may be restored with emery cloth.

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 Removing and Installing the Engine
Removing the Engine
1. Put machine on a level surface, stop engine, remove NOTE: Be prepared to insert a plug into fuel line to
key from ignition switch and engage parking brake. prevent fuel spill.

2. Remove intake hose from air cleaner and carburetor. 12. Remove main fuel return hose at injector nozzle
connection.
3. Remove transmission drive coupling (see Chapter 10
- Transmission Coupler and PTO). 13. Remove capscrews attaching fan belt guard and
remove fan belt guard.
4. Remove PTO belt (see Chapter 10 - Transmission
Coupler and PTO). 14. Remove capscrews securing fan shroud to radiator
so fan shroud can be move during engine removal for
5. Disconnect battery cables from battery terminals. cooling fan clearance.

6. Disconnect and tag all wires connected to engine and 15. Attach a short section of chain between the two lifting
engine accessories. shakles on the engine. Attach block and tackle or hoist
chain to this short section of chain, approximately mid-
7. Put a drain pan under radiator, loosen radiator cap, way between the two shakles.
loosen radiator petcock and allow radiator to drain com-
pletely. NOTE: Do not attach hoist chain or chains directly to
shackles on engine as this may cause damage to fan
8. Move drain pan under lower radiator hose. Discon- shaft tube or muffler when the engine weight is sup-
nect hose from radiator and allow coolant to drain into ported by chains.
pan. Remove lower and upper radiator hoses.
16. Remove four bolts securing rear engine mount to
9. Move drain pan under rear of engine and remove frame.
cylinder block plug (located above starter) to drain cool-
ant from cylinder block. Install cylinder block plug. 17. Remove slack from lifting chain and carefully re-
move two capscrews which pass through the two rubber
10. Disconnect throttle control cable from throttle front engine mounts.
bracket.
18. Lift and guide engine from engine compartment. Be
11. Remove fuel line from outlet side of fuel filter/water careful not to damage the radiator cooling fan or other
separator. components during removal.

Installing the Engine

1. Do steps 2 - 18 of “Removing the Engine” in reverse 3. Inspect for oil and coolant leaks.
order.
4. Check engine idle speed and maximum governed
2. Fill cooling system with new coolant. Install a new oil speed settings.
filter and fill engine with correct oil.

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 Cylinder Head Overhaul
This section explains disassembly, inspection, repair, IMPORTANT: When overhauling the cylinder head
and reassembly of the cylinder head and its compo- and cylinder block it is important that many of the
nents as outlined below: components be reinstalled in the exact location
from where they were removed. These items are
Cylinder Head Removal noted in the text. It is useful to construct a rack
Cylinder Head Servicing where these components can be stored, in order,
Valve Guides until reassembly.
Valves
Valve Seats
Valve Springs
Rocker Arms, Bearings, Shaft
Cylinder Head Reassembly and Installation

Cylinder Head Removal (Engine Removed) (Fig. 52, 53)

1. Remove the fan shaft bracket, muffler, and rear motor
mount.

2. Disconnect the water bypass hose from the cylinder

head.

3. Remove the injection pipes (injection pump) to noz-

zles.

4. Remove the rocker cover and breather tube.

5. Loosen the two bolts and the cap screw which retain
the rocker shaft assembly, and remove the rocker shaft.

6. Remove the push rods. Place each push rod into a Figure 52
marked holder so that it can be replaced in the original
position.

7. Loosen and remove the cylinder head bolts in the

sequence shown. Lift the cylinder head from the cylinder
block. It may be necessary to tap the cylinder head with
a wooden mallet to break the seal of the head gasket.
Place the cylinder head on a flat, clean surface.

9. Remove the thermostat housing and the thermostat.

10. Remove the glow plug lead wires and glow plugs.

11. Remove the nozzle holder bolts and nozzles.

Figure 53
12. Remove the used cylinder head gasket. Use a
scraper to remove all traces of gasket material. Pay
particular attention not to damage or scratch the cylinder
head or cylinder block surface.

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 Cylinder Head Servicing (Fig. 54)
1. Use a spring compressor to compress the valve
springs. Remove the retainer locks (keepers), retainers,
and valve springs. Place each part in a holder or rack
so that they can be replaced in their original position.

2. Remove the valves and place them in position in the

rack. Examine each valve for indications of burning,
pitting, heavy carbon deposits or wear. The condition of
the valves can give important clues to other components
which may require service (example: improper valve
clearance, worn valve guides, damaged seals, etc.).
Remove the valve seals.

3. Remove all of the carbon deposits from the combus-

tion chamber using a scraper and wire brush. Figure 54

4. Clean the cylinder head thoroughly with solvent or Checking cylinder head distortion
degreasing solution and dry. Inspect it carefully for
cracks.

5. Remove all carbon deposits from the valve guide

bores with a valve guide cleaner. Use a valve guide
bristle brush to remove loosened carbon deposits in the
valve guide. Push a solvent soaked cloth through the
valve guides to remove all foreign materials.

6. Use compressed air to ensure that the oil passage

way through the head is not clogged.

Wear eye protection during use of com-

pressed air. Limit air pressure to 40 psi
(280 kPa).

7. Check the flatness of the cylinder head lower surface

using a straight edge and feeler gauge. Be sure to check
the surface variation crosswise, lengthwise, and diago-
nally. If a surface flatness variation greater than 0.002
inch (0.05 mm) exists, the cylinder head or cylinder
block must be replaced or resurfaced.

8. Use a micrometer and a small hole gauge to check

the valve guide to valve stem clearance. The valve and
valve guide should be replaced if the clearance exceeds
the following limits:

Intake Valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.0039 inch (0.10 mm)

Exhaust Valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.0059 inch (0.15 mm)

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 Valve Guides (Fig. 55)
If the valve guide clearance, after cleaning, exceeds the
specifications in step 6 above, they must be replaced.

1. Remove the existing valve guide by pressing it up-

ward using a valve guide removing mandrel with a pilot
section.

2. To install the new guide press it in from the top of the

cylinder head using the valve guide mandrel. Valve
guides should be installed so that their installed height
is as shown.

NOTE: Placing the valve guide in a refrigerator or

freezer for several minutes before installation will aid in
assembly. Figure 55

3. After installing the valve guide, again check the guide Installing valve guide
to stem clearance. If the clearance is smaller than the
standard size it will be necessary to ream the valve
guide bore to obtain the proper clearance.

Valves (Fig. 56)

1. Carefully clean each valve with a wire wheel to
remove all carbon deposits.

2. Check the valve face and the valve stem for excessive
wear, damage, cracks or deformation. If any of these
conditions exist the valve must be replaced. It is possi-
ble to reface the valve as long as the margin or valve lip
thickness is not less than the surface limit.

3. Check the tip of the valve stem for wear or pitting. If

pitted or worn the valve stem tip may be resurfaced by
placing the valve stem in a V-block and dressing the tip
against a grinding wheel.

Figure 56

Dimensions of valve

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 Valve Seats (Fig. 57, 58)
1. Check the valve seat for damage and signs of incor-
rect contact.

2. If the valve seat is defective, the seat can be re-cut

to the dimensions shown.

3. After cutting new valve seats, lap the valve to the seat
using the lapping compound. After lapping, thoroughly
clean the valve seat and valve areas to remove any
traces of lapping compound. To verify that the valve face
is making proper contact to the valve seat, lightly coat
the valve seat area with Prussion blue, install the valve,
rotate the valve 1/4 turn while holding it down and then
bring it back to the original position. Remove the valve
and examine the valve seat. The valve seat should show Figure 57
an even wear pattern from contact with the valve. Ex-
amine the valve. The dye should be evenly distributed Dimension of valve seat
around the valve and in the center of the valve face.

Figure 58

Correction of valve seat

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 Valve Springs (Fig. 59)
1. Check the valve springs for rust, pitting, cracks or
other damage.

2. Check the squareness of the valve spring by placing

it upright on a level surface. Springs may be out of
square by 1.5 degrees. Springs that are out of square
by 3 degrees or more must be replaced.

3. Measure the spring free length. The standard dimen-

sion is 1.69 inches (43 mm). Springs which measure
1.64 inches (41.7 mm) or shorter must be replaced.

4. Over time, valve springs can lose some of their

tension. Test the springs to make sure that the spring
pressure is within the following limits: 23.5 - 28.5 lbs.
(11.2 - 12.4 Kg) with the installed length of 1.46 inches Figure 59
(37.1 mm). When the spring pressure at the length given
is 20 lbs. (9.5 Kg) or less, the spring must be replaced. Checking valve spring length

NOTE: Valve springs are inexpensive compared to the

cost of repairing engine damage due to weak valve
springs.

Rocker Arm and Rocker Shaft Service (Fig. 60)

1. Disassemble the rocker shaft by removing the outside
retaining rings on each end and by removing the two
rocker arms stay bolts and seats from the rocker shaft.

2. Inspect each rocker arm for signs of wear where they

contact the valve tip and push rod contact surfaces.
Rocker arms which are worn should be replaced.

3. Examine the rocker shaft for excessive wear or

damage. Replace it if it is defective.

4. Measure the rocker arm inside diameter and the shaft

outside diameter. The maximum clearance between the
rocker arm and the rocker arm shaft should be .0079
inches (0.2 mm). Replace the shaft if clearance is in Figure 60
excess of this dimension.
Rocker arm and shaft
5. Inspect the oil passages in the rocker shaft and rocker
arms to make sure that they are clear of obstruction.
Clean if necessary.

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 Cylinder Head Reassembly and Installation (Fig. 61, 62, 63)
1. Ensure that the valve guides are properly installed.

2. Install the valve stem seal onto the valve guide

securely.

3. Apply a coating of oil to the valve stems and insert

them in proper order, into the valve guides. Install the
valve springs, valve retainers and retainer locks.

4. Assemble the rocker arms to the rocker shaft in the

following order. First, attach the front rocker arm stay to
the cylinder head with the bolt hole toward the right
(valve side) of the cylinder head. Next, install the rocker
shaft so that the identification mark (small drilled hole
near the end of the shaft) is located near the front (water Figure 61
pump), and to the right side of the engine. Install the cap
screw and washer through the stay and into the shaft. Valve stem seal
Install the front rocker arm and retaining ring. Next,
install the remaining rocker arms, springs and rocker
shaft stays, and bolt them to the cylinder head.

5. Install the glow plugs and glow plug lead wires. The
glow plugs should be torqued to 10.8 - 14.5 ft-lbs (1.5 -
2.0 KgM).

6. Install the nozzle holder and tighten the bolts evenly

to 10.8 - 14.5 ft-lbs (1.5 - 2.0 KgM).

7. Ensure that the cylinder head and cylinder block

surfaces are clean. Position a new head gasket on the
head and insert some dowel pins into two cylinder head
bolt holes in the cylinder to assist with mounting the Figure 62
cylinder head. Carefully position the cylinder head over
the dowels onto the cylinder block and remove the Rocker arm and shaft assembly
dowel pins. Insert the head bolts.

IMPORTANT: Do not coat the cylinder head gasket

with any sealant.

8. Tighten the cylinder head bolts to their specified

torque as in the order shown. A good practice is to
tighten the head bolts in proper order, first to one-third
of their specified torque, then to two-thirds of their torque
and finally to the specified torque.

9. Adjust the valve clearance.

Figure 63

Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

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 Cylinder Block Overhaul
This section outlines procedures for disassembly, in-
spection, repair and reassembly of the cylinder block
and its components, as outlined below:

Cylinder Block Disassembly

Camshaft Service
Injection Pump Camshaft Service
Crankshaft Bearings
Timing Gears
Connecting Rods and Bearings
Cylinders
Oversized Pistons, Cylinder Bore and Rings
Piston and Pin Replacement

Cylinder Block Disassembly

NOTE: It is assumed that the engine has been removed 8. Remove the crankshaft pulley, nut, washer, lock
from the mower, placed on an engine stand, and the washer and key.
cylinder head removed.
9. Remove the gear case from the front of the motor.
1. Place a drain pan under the engine. Remove the oil
pan drain plug and drain the oil from the engine. Re- NOTE: The front plate is retained to the cylinder block
move the oil filter from the oil pump body. Discard the by bolts that are underneath the cover. Do not attempt
oil filter. Dispose of the oil in the proper manner. to remove the plate without first removing the gear case
cover and the bolts underneath.
2. Remove the water pump.
10. Remove the camshaft and gear by carefully backing
3. Remove the fuel injection pump from the cylinder them out from the cylinder block.
block body and the fuel filter.
NOTE:The speedometer drive and valve lifters must be
NOTE: It is necessary to remove the tie rod cover, the removed to remove the camshaft.
control rod, and retaining spring from the control rack
before removing the injection pump. 11. To remove the injection pump camshaft, first remove
the governor sliding shaft and governor flyweight as-
4. Lift the push rods out of the cylinder block. sembly. Align the hole in the injection pump camshaft
gear with the retaining bolt and washer. Remove the
5. Remove the valve lifters from their positions in the washer and carefully pull the camshaft gear and bearing
cylinder block. from its location in the cylinder block.

6. Remove the speedometer drive assembly from the 12. Remove the idler gear from its shaft.
left hand side of the engine by removing the cap screw
and clamp and pulling the gear out. 13. Remove the flywheel bolts and washers and remove
the flywheel from the crankshaft.
7. Turn the engine upside down on the stand and
remove the oil drain pan and filter screen (spring-like
screen).

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 14. Remove the ring ridge from each cylinder using a
ridge removing tool. This will prevent damage to the
rings and pistons. Remove the connecting rod cap nuts
and then remove the bearing caps. Place these parts in
cylinder number order. Remove the pistons and con-
necting rods by pushing them up from the bottom of the
block. Use a wooden block to push the pistons and rods
to avoid damage to the connecting rod.

NOTE: Before removing the pistons scribe the number

of the cylinder onto the top of the piston. When the piston
and rod assembly is removed, use care to prevent
damage to the piston or bearing surfaces.

15. Remove the main bearing caps. Arrange the re- Figure 64
moved caps and bearings according to cylinder order
so they may be replaced in the same position upon Main bearing caps
reassembly.

NOTE: Before removing the main bearing caps, meas-

ure the crankshaft end play.

16. Remove the crankshaft after removing the main

bearing caps.

17. Remove the crankshaft oil seal and gasket.

18. Check the cylinder block for cracks or damage.

Replace the cylinder block if it is unserviceable.

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 Camshaft and Bearing (Fig. 65, 66)
1. Inspect the camshaft for evidence of severe wear.

2. Using a micrometer and a hole gauge, measure the

clearance between the camshaft journals and the cylin-
der block. If the clearance is greater than 0.0059 inch
(0.15 mm) the camshaft or the camshaft bushing must
be replaced.

3. To remove the camshaft bushing in the cylinder block,

carefully drive the bushing from its location using the
camshaft bushing tool (refer to “Special Tools”).

NOTE: You must drive the bushing into the cylinder

block and then crush it to remove it. Be careful not to
damage the valve lifter hole when removing the cam- Figure 65
shaft bushing.
Removing camshaft bushing
4. To install a new camshaft bushing use the camshaft
bushing tool and drive the bushing in from the outside
of the cylinder block being careful to align the oil delivery
hole in the cylinder block with the oil hole in the bushing.

5. If the cam surface is damaged or the cam lobe is badly

worn it must be replaced. Cam lobe height should be
measured using a micrometer. The standard cam lobe
height for both intake and exhaust valves is 1.4079
inches (35.75 mm). The maximum allowable wear on
cam surface is 0.0394 inch (1.0 mm). Replace the
camshaft if wear exceeds this amount.

Figure 66

Measuring camshaft cam lobe height

Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft (Fig. 67)

1. Inspect the camshaft bearing, replace if defective.

2. Examine the oil pump coupling. The camshaft must

be replaced if this coupling is worn.

3. Examine the cam lobe surfaces. Replace the cam if

they are damaged.

4. Measure the cam lobe height in the same manner as

measuring the valve camshaft lobe height. The standard
lobe height for each cylinder of the injection pump is
1.7323 inches (44 mm). The camshaft must be replaced
if the cam lobe has been worn by 0.0394 inch (1 mm)
or more.
Figure 67

Fuel injection pump camshaft

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 Crankshaft Bearings (Fig. 68, 69)
1. Measure the crankshaft for “run-out” (bend). Mount
the crankshaft in a pair of V-blocks (or live centers) and
use a dial indicator to measure the run-out in the crank-
shaft. The maximum allowable crankshaft run-out is
.0012 inch (0.03 mm).

2. Check the crank journals and crank pins for damage

such as galling, seizure, etc. If journals or pins are
seriously damaged they may be reground and over-
sized bearings installed. The main bearing and connect-
ing rod bearing oil clearances may be measured with a
micrometer or Plastigauge. Crankshaft oil clearances
are: Journal, 0.0039 inch (0.10 mm); Crank pin, 0.0059
inch (0.15 mm).
Figure 68
NOTE: When using Plastigauge to measure the clear-
ance between the crankshaft and its bearings, install the
crankshaft into the cylinder block, place a piece of
Plastigauge onto the crank pin or journal, and torque the
bearing cap (with bearing) in place. DO NOT TURN THE
CRANKSHAFT WHEN PLASTIGAUGE IS IN PLACE SINCE
THE PLASTIGAUGE WOULD BE DESTROYED. Remove
the bearing cap and measure the width of the Plasti-
gauge to determine the clearance. If the oil clearances
exceed these amounts attempt to install a new bearing
to reduce the clearance. If installing a replacement
bearing does not reduce the clearance to within toler-
ance the crankshaft must be reground and an oversized
bearing installed.
Figure 69

Timing Gears (Fig. 70)

1. Inspect the idler gear, fuel injection pump gear, cam-
shaft gear and crankshaft gear for wear or damage.
Replace these gears if defective.

Figure 70

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 Connecting Rod and Connecting Rod Bearings (Fig. 71)
1. Check for bending or distortion of the connecting rod.
If excessive, replace the rod (0.002 inch or 0.05 mm
max.).

2. Assemble each connecting rod to the crankshaft in

their proper order. Use a feeler gauge to measure the
connecting rod thrust clearance between the connect-
ing rod and crankshaft. The proper clearance is .0039
-.0138 inch (.1 -.35 mm). If the clearance exceeds this
amount replace the connecting rod assembly.

3. The connecting rod journal to crank pin oil clearance

can be measured using a micrometer or Plastigauge.
Refer to “Crankshaft Bearings,” for tolerances.
Figure 71

Measuring connecting rod thrust clearance

Cylinders (Fig. 72)

1. Measure the cylinder bore size in six locations as
shown. The standard bore diameter is 2.8740 inches (73
mm). The cylinder must be rebored and oversized piston
and rings installed if the diameter exceeds the standard
by .0079 inch (.2 mm). Examine the cylinder bore di-
ameter readings to determine the amount of taper of the
cylinder. If the taper exceeds .0004 inch (.01 mm) the
cylinder must be rebored and oversized piston and rings
installed.

Figure 72

Checking cylinder bore size

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 Oversized Pistons, Cylinder Bore and Rings (Fig. 73, 74, 75)
1. Check the piston for wear, signs of seizure or nicks.
Replace it if it is defective.

2. Measure the piston outside diameter. If the clearance

between the piston and the cylinder exceeds 0.01 18 in.
(.3 mm), replace the piston.

NOTE: The piston O.D. should be measured at the

lower end of the skirt across the thrust faces, or on
access points perpendicular to the piston pin direction.

3. Thoroughly clean the carbon deposits from the piston

and ring grooves. A ring groove cleaner, or piece of a
discarded ring may be used to clean the ring grooves.
Figure 73

Measuring piston outside diameter

4. Measure the piston ring side clearances using a

thickness gauge.

If the piston ring side clearance exceeds the service limit

in the chart below, the ring must be replaced.

NOTE: In the case of a tapered ring (No. 1), measure

the clearance on the bottom, or widest area of the ring.

Figure 74

Measuring piston ring side clearance

5. Measure the piston ring gap clearance. Insert the ring

into the least worn area of the cylinder by pushing it into
place with the piston. The standard gap is 0.0059 -
0.0157 inch (0.15 - 0.4 mm). If the gap exceeds 0.0590
inch (1.5 mm) the ring must be replaced.

Figure 75

Measuring piston ring gap clearance

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 Piston and Pin Replacement (Fig. 76)
To remove a piston from its connecting rod, use the
piston pin tool (see Special Tools section) to press the
pin from the connecting rod.

IMPORTANT: Do not attempt to remove the piston

pins by driving them out with a hammer. A stuck
piston pin, requiring excessive pressure to remove,
should be replaced. 1100 - 3300 lbs (500 - 1500 Kg)
pressure is standard force needed to remove the
piston pin.

1. Press the piston pin from the connecting rod as

described above.

2. Use a micrometer and bore gauge to measure the Figure 76

clearance between the piston and pin. If the clearance
exceeds 0.0031 inch (0.08 mm) the piston and/or pin Piston pin removal tool
must be replaced.

Engine Reassembly
The engine should be reassembled in the order given 3. Replace all gaskets, packings, and oil seals with new
in this section. The following general precautions should ones. Reuse of these parts is not acceptable.
be observed when reassembling the engine.
4. Apply sealant to gaskets and threads.
1. Clean each part carefully. Pay particular attention to
oil holes, bearing surfaces and rotating parts. 5. Tighten all fasteners to the proper torque as outlined
in the torque specifications.
2. Before assembly apply engine oil to all sliding and
rotating parts such as bearings and cylinder inner walls. 6. Check clearances and end plays when installing.

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 Engine Reassembly Procedures

Follow the procedures listed below in reassembling the

engine.

1. Install the camshaft bushing.

Figure 77

Installing camshaft bushing

2. Install the main bearings to the cylinder block and

main bearing cap. Ensure that these are in proper
position.

3. Install the crankshaft.

4. Install the main bearing caps then tighten the cap

bolts to the specified torque. Each cap carries an em-
bossed arrow mark and letter or numeral to indicate its
position in the cylinder block. When installing the no. 1
and no. 4 bearing caps, apply sealant to the upper
surface (that meets with the cylinder block).
Figure 78

Installed direction of main bearing caps

5. With the bolts torqued use a dial indicator on the end

of the crankshaft to measure the crankshaft end play. If
the end play exceeds .0197 inch (0.5 mm) replace the
No. 3 main bearing.

Figure 79

Measuring crankshaft end play

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 6. Apply sealant to the outside surface of the front and
rear side seals. The side seals are installed with the
radius towards the outside of the engine.

Figure 80

Installing bearing side cap seals

Figure 81

Direction of side seal installation

7. Insert the oil seal into the crankshaft rear oil seal
case.Apply a light coat of oil to the oil seal lip and install
the seal case to the cylinder block.

NOTE: Use a new gasket.

8. Install the rear engine plate if it has been removed.

9. Install the flywheel onto the crankshaft using the bolts

and special washers. Torque the flywheel bolts to 83 -
90 ft-lbs (11.5 - 12.5 KgM). Figure 82

Installing oil seal case

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 NOTE: Before insertion apply engine oil to the piston pin
O.D. and the connecting rod small end inside diameter.

10. To assemble the piston to the connecting rod, press

the piston pin into the set position. Use the piston pin
setting tool. Make sure the identification mark of the rod
and and the arrow mark on the piston head are di-
rected up.

Pin press fitting force: 500 - 1500 kg (1100 - 3300 lb.)

NOTE: The piston and piston pin are matched parts and
should not be mixed.

After assembling the piston and connecting rod make Figure 83

certain that the connecting rod small end is properly
positioned at the center of the piston pin. Installing piston rod

11. Install the piston rings.

IMPORTANT: The piston rings differ in shape from

one another. Be careful to install them in proper
position and with the ring gaps in the directions as
illustrated. In the case of the oil ring with the coil
expander, the gap clearance of the ring should be
positioned 180° away from the joint of the expander.

NOTE: Install the piston rings with the stamped manu-

facturer mark facing up.

Figure 84

Ring gap positions Piston ring shapes

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 12. Insert the piston and connecting rod assembly into
the cylinder block using a ring compressor and a
wooden block. After insertion into the cylinder, properly
install the connecting rod bearings and rod caps and
tighten the bolts to the specified torque.

NOTE: The bearing assembly grooves in the connecting

rod cap should be on the same side when assembled.

13. Install the front plate. Remember to use a new

gasket.

14. Turn the crankshaft until the No. 1 piston is a top

dead center (TDC).
Figure 85
15. Drive the key into the crankshaft and install the
crankshaft gear onto the shaft if it has been disassem- Installing piston and rod assembly
bled.

16. With the idler gear mating mark “1" properly aligned
with the crankshaft mating mark ”1",install the idler gear
on to the idler shaft.

17. Insert the camshaft and gear assembly into the

cylinder block and align the idler gear mark “2" with the
camshaft gear mating mark ”2".

18. Install the injection pump camshaft assembly into

the cylinder block and align the idler gear mating mark
“3" with the pump gear mark ”3". Remember to install
the bolt and washer which retain the injection pump
camshaft bearing. Figure 86

19. Install the governor weight assembly and sliding Mating marks of gears
shaft to the injection pump cam gear.

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 29. Install the front gear case and gasket, using PER-
MATEX No. 2 on gasket surfaces. When installing the
gear case insert the tie rod and tie rod stopper spring
into the hole in the cylinder block under injection pump.
Install the crankshaft pulley and key. Torque the retain-
ing nut to 144 - 180 ft-lbs. (20 - 25 KgM).

30. Install the oil screen and the oil pan using a new
gasket.

Figure 87

Installing gear case

31. Reinstall the speedometer unit while rotating the

speedometer shaft. Make sure that the O-ring is prop-
erly installed. Apply oil to the outside surface of valve
lifters and insert the lifters into the cylinder block in the
order of which they were removed. Install the push rods
into the lifters in the order in which they were removed.

32. Install the cylinder head assembly.

Figure 88

Inserting tappet

33. Install the fuel injection pump.

34. Install the oil pump and oil filter if they have been
removed.

35. Install the water pump.

36. Install the starter if it has been removed.

37. Install the overhauled engine onto the machine

following the reverse procedure for removing the engine
from the machine. Figure 89

Installing injection pump

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 Chapter 4A

(For Groundsmaster 328–D only)

Kubota Diesel Engine

Table of Contents
General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

General Information

The engine used in the Groundsmaster 328–D is General maintenance procedures are described in your
manufactured by Kubota. Service and repair parts for Operator’s Manual. Information regarding engine trou-
this engine are supplied through TORO Distributors. bleshooting, testing, disassembly and assembly is iden-
Repair parts may be ordered by TORO part number. If tified in the Kubota 05 Series Service Manual (Toro part
no parts list is available be sure to provide your Distribu- 01090SL).
tor with the TORO model number and serial number.
Note: Refer to Chapter 4 – Mitsubishi K3D Diesel En-
gine for Groundsmaster 328–D engine removal and
installation procedure.

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 Specifications

Item Description

Make / Designation Kubota Model 1105

4 Cycle, 3 Cylinder Diesel Engine

Number of Cylinders 3

Bore 3.07 in (78.0 mm)

Stroke 3.09 in (78.4 mm)

Total Displacement 68.53 cu in (1123 cc)

Firing Order 1–2–3

Combustion Chamber Spherical Type

Fuel No. 2 Diesel Fuel (ASTM D975)

Fuel Capacity 6.5 U.S. gallon (24.6 liter)

Fuel Injection Pump Bosch MD Type Mini Pump

Injection Nozzles Mini Nozzle (DNOPD)

Governor Centrifugal Mechanical

Idle Speed (no load) 1500 – 1650 RPM

High Idle (no load) 3100 – 3250 RPM

Coolant Capacity 6 U.S. quart (5.7 liter)

Engine Oil See Operator’s Manual

Oil Capacity 4 U.S. quart (3.8 liter) with filter

Starter 12 VDC, 1.4 KW

Alternator/Regulator 12 VDC, 40 AMP

Dry Weight 205.0 lbs (93.0 kg)

Specifications Page 4A – 2 Rev. G Groundsmaster 300 Series

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 Chapter 5

Hydraulic System
Table of Contents
SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 REPAIRS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Hydraulic Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Transmission Trunnion Seal Replacement . . . . 26
GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Transmission By-Pass Valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Hydraulic Hoses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Transmission Acceleration Valves . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Hydraulic Fitting Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Transmission Implement Relief Valve . . . . . . . . 29
Towing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Transmission Charge Relief Valve . . . . . . . . . . . 30
HYDRAULIC SCHEMATICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Transmission Charge Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
HYDRAULIC FLOW DIAGRAMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Transmission Removal and Installation . . . . . . . 33
Forward Traction Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Transmission Overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Raising the Cutting Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Separating Transmission Into Sections . . . . . . . 34
Turning Steering Wheel to Right . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Transmission Pump Section . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Transmission Center Section . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Transmission Motor Section . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
TESTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Assembling Transmission Sections . . . . . . . . . . 39
Test No. 1: Charge Pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Priming After Transmission Overhaul
Test No. 2: Implement Relief Pressure . . . . . . . 20 or Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Test No. 3: Traction Pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Lift Cylinder Removal and Installation . . . . . . . . 41
Test No. 4: Charge Pump Flow and Lift Cylinder Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Implement Relief Pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Lift Valve Removal and Installation . . . . . . . . . . 43
ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Lift Valve Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Traction Control Rod Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Traction Pedal Friction Wheel Adjustment . . . . 23
Traction Control Neutral Adjustment . . . . . . . . . 24
Lift Lever Latch Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

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 Specifications
Item Description Standard
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________

Transmission Sauer-Sundstrand 15 Series In-line

Operating Pressure 500 to 5200 PSI
Charge pressure 70 - 150 PSI
Implement relief pressure 700 to 900 PSI
Forward traction relief pressure (4WD only) 5200 PSI
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________

Oil filter 25 micron rated, screw-on type

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________

Hydraulic oil (Fig. 1) Extreme (over 90°F) SAE 30 SF/CC or CD

Normal (40 - 100°F) SAE 10W30 or 10W40 SF/CC or CD

Cool - Spring/Fall (30 - 50°F) SAE 5W30 SF/CC or CD

Winter (Below 30°F) Type “F” or “FA” ATF

Automatic Transmission Fluid
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________

Hydraulic resevoir Front axle differential housing 5 U.S. qt. (4.7 liter) approx. capacity
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________

Lift control valve Four-way, three position,

open center

Hydraulic Oil
The hydraulic system is designed to operate on any IMPORTANT: When adding oil to hydraulic system,
high-quality detergent oil having the American use a funnel with a fine wire screen (200 mesh).
Petroleum Institute (API) service classification SF/CC Make sure funnel and oil are very clean to prevent
or CD. Oil viscosity (weight) must be selected according accidental contamination of hydraulic system.
to anticipated ambient temperature. (See Hydraulic oil
specifications in above chart). 3. Screw dipstick filler cap finger-tight onto filler neck. It
is not necessary to tighten cap with a wrench.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT mix engine oil and automatic
transmission fluid or hydraulic system component 4. Lower the implement.
damage may result. When changing fluids, also
change transmission filter. DO NOT USE DEX-
RON II ATF.

NOTE: Fluid to operate the power steering is supplied

by the hydraulic system transmission charge pump.
Cold weather start-up may result in “stiff” operation of
the steering until the hydraulic system has warmed up.
Using proper weight hydraulic oil in system minimizes
this condition.

To check oil level:

1. Put machine on a level surface, raise the implement

and stop the engine. Figure 1

2. Unscrew dipstick cap from filler neck and wipe it with 1. Dipstick cap 2. Groove
a clean rag. Screw dipstick cap finger tight onto filler
neck. Unscrew dipstick and check level of oil. If level is
not within 1/2 inch (13 mm) from groove in dipstick, add
enough oil to raise level to groove mark. DO NOT OVER-
FILL by more than 1/2 inch (13 mm) above groove.

Specifications Page 5 - 2 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 General Information
Hydraulic Hoses
Hydraulic hoses are subject to extreme conditions such
as, pressure differentials during operation and exposure
to weather, sun, chemicals, very warm storage condi-
tions or mishandling during operation or maintenance. WARNING
These conditions can cause damage or premature Before disconnecting or performing any work
deterioration. Some hoses are more susceptible to on the hydraulic system, all pressure in the
these conditions than others. Inspect the hoses fre- system must be relieved by lowering the cut-
quently for signs of deterioration or damage. ting unit to the ground and stopping the
engine.
When replacing a hydraulic hose, be sure that the hose
is straight (not twisted) before tightening the fittings. This Keep body and hands away from pin hole
can be done by observing the imprint on the hose. Use leaks or nozzles that eject hydraulic fluid
two wrenches; one to hold the hose straight and one to under high pressure. Use paper or cardboard,
tighten the hose swivel nut onto the fitting. not hands, to search for leaks. Hydraulic fluid
escaping under pressure can have sufficient
force to penetrate the skin and do serious
damage. If fluid is injected into the skin, it
must be surgically removed within a few
hours by a doctor familiar with this type of
injury or gangrene may result.

Hydraulic Fitting Installation

O-Ring Face Seal

1. Make sure both threads and sealing surfaces are free Nut Body
of burrs, nicks, scratches, or any foreign material
(Fig. 3). Sleeve

2. Make sure the O-ring is installed and properly seated Seal

in the groove. It is recommended that the O-ring be
replaced any time the connection is opened.

3. Lubricate the O-ring with a light coating of oil.

4. Put the tube and nut squarely into position on the face
seal end of the fitting and tighten the nut until finger tight.

5. Mark the nut and fitting body. Hold the body with a
wrench. Use another wrench to tighten the nut to the
correct flats from finger tight (F.F.F.T.). The markings on
the nut and fitting body will verify that the connection has Final
been tightened. Mark Nut Position Initial
and Body Position
Size F.F.F.T. Extend Line

4 (1/4 in. nominal hose or tubing) .75 ± .25 Finger Tight After Proper Tightening
6 (3/8 in.) .75 ± .25
8 (1/2 in.) .75 ± .25
10 (5/8 in.) 1.00 ± .25
12 (3/4 in.) .75 ± .25 Figure 3
16 (1 in.) .75 ± .25

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 5 - 3 General Information

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 SAE Straight Thread O-Ring Port (Non-adjustable)

1. Make sure both threads and sealing surfaces are free

of burrs, nicks, scratches, or any foreign material.

2. Always replace the O-ring seal when this type of fitting

shows signs of leakage.

3. Lubricate the O-ring with a light coating of oil. O-Ring

4. Install the fitting into the port and tighten it down full
length until finger tight (Fig. 4).

5. Tighten the fitting to the correct flats from finger tight

(F.F.F.T.).
Figure 4
Size F.F.F.T.

4 (1/4 in. nominal hose or tubing) 1.00 ± .25

6 (3/8 in.) 1.50 ± .25
8 (1/2 in.) 1.50 ± .25
10 (5/8 in.) 1.50 ± .25
12 (3/4 in.) 1.50 ± .25
16 (1 in.) 1.50 ± .25

SAE Straight Thread O-Ring Port (Adjustable)

1. Make sure both threads and sealing surfaces are free

of burrs, nicks, scratches, or any foreign material
(Fig. 5).

2. Always replace the O-ring seal when this type of fitting

shows signs of leakage.
Lock Nut

3. Lubricate the O-ring with a light coating of oil.

Back-Up Washer
4. Turn back the jam nut as far as possible. Make sure O-Ring
the back up washer is not loose and is pushed up as far
as possible (Step 1).

5. Install the fitting into the port and tighten finger tight
until the washer contacts the face of the port (Step 2).

6. To put the fitting in the desired position, unscrew it by

Step 1 Step 3
the required amount, but no more than one full turn
(Step 3).

7. Hold the fitting in the desired position with a wrench

and turn the jam nut with another wrench to the correct
flats from finger tight (F.F.F.T.) (Step 4)

Size F.F.F.T. Step 2 Step 4

4 (1/4 in. nominal hose or tubing) 1.00 ± .25

6 (3/8 in.) 1.50 ± .25
8 (1/2 in.) 1.50 ± .25
10 (5/8 in.) 1.50 ± .25
12 (3/4 in.) 1.50 ± .25
Figure 5
16 (1 in.) 1.50 ± .25

General Information Page 5 - 4 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Pushing or Towing (Fig. 6)
In an emergency, the traction unit can be pushed or
towed for a very short distance. However, Toro does not
recommend this as a standard procedure.

IMPORTANT: Do not push to tow the traction unit

faster than 2 to 3 mph because the transmission
may be damaged. If traction unit must be moved a
long distance, transport it on a truck or trailer. When
ever traction unit is pushed or towed, the by-pass
valve must be open.

1. Raise and support seat to get access to by-pass

valve.

2. Rotate by-pass valve on transmission counterclock- Figure 6

wise 1/2 to 1 turn. Opening the valve opens an internal (4WD unit shown)
passage in the pump to by-pass transmission oil. Be-
cause fluid is by-passed, the machine can be pushed 1. Bypass valve
slowly without damaging the transmission.

3. Close by-pass valve by rotating it clockwise until it is

securely seated. Do not exceed 5 to 8 ft-lb of torque
when tightening.

IMPORTANT: Do not start engine when valve is

open. Running the machine with the by-pass valve
open will cause the transmission to overheat.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 5 - 5 General Information

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 Hydraulic Schematics
2 Wheel Drive Traction Unit

4 Wheel Drive Traction Unit

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 Hydraulic Flow Diagrams

Forward Traction Operation

The hydrostatic transmission consists of a charge pump, variable dis-
placement pump and a fixed displacement motor. The diagram shows
flow of the hydraulic oil during forward operation.

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 Raising the Cutting Unit
The charge pump supplies oil through the “AUX” port of the steering valve to the lift valve.
When the lift lever is actuated to raise the cutting unit, oil supplied by the charge pump is
directed out the work port of the lift valve to the barrel end of the lift cylinder. Oil displaced
from the rod end of the cylinders goes through the oil cooler and back to reservoir.

NOTE: The steering valve will not allow oil to flow through it to the lift valve when the steering
wheel is being turned. Whenever the steering wheel is not moving, the steering valve allows
oil to flow through it. Oil in the rest of the steering circuit is then trapped.

Pressure

Return

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 Turning Steering Wheel to Right
When the steering wheel is turned to the right the control valve within the steering valve
shifts to close the “AUX” port. This directs oil supplied by the charge pump to the metering
section of the steering valve. As the steering wheel turns, oil is metered out port “RT” to the
steering cylinder. Oil displaced by the other end of the steering cylinder returns to the steering
valve through port “LT” which directs it through the “OUT” port back to reservoir.

When the steering wheel stops turning the control valve within the steering valve shifts back
to neutral allowing oil to flow through the steering valve out the “AUX” port to the lift control
valve. Oil in the rest of the steering circuit is then trapped.

Pressure

Return

4WD Units

2WD Units

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 Special Tools
NOTE: Order special tools from the TORO SPECIAL Catalog for your Toro equipment. Some tools may also
TOOLS AND APPLICATIONS GUIDE (COMMERCIAL be available from a local supplier.
PRODUCTS). Some tools may be listed in the Parts

Hydraulic Pressure Gauges (Fig. 7)

Used to take various hydraulic pressure readings for
diagnostic tests.

Low pressure gauge 0 - 1000 psi, high pressure gauge

0 - 5000 psi, and associated hoses and fittings.

Figure 7

Special Tools Page 5 - 10 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Hydraulic Tester (With Pressure and Flow Capabilities) (Fig. 8)

Figure 8

You must have o-ring face seal (ORFS) adapter fittings 4. HIGH PRESSURE GAUGE: High range gauge to
for this tester to use it on current models of the accommodate pressure beyond the capacity of the low
Groundsmaster 300 Series. pressure gauge, 0 - 5000.

1. INLET HOSE: Hose connected from the system 5. FLOW METER: This meter measures actual oil flow
circuit to the inlet side of the hydraulic tester. in the operation circuit, with a gauge rated at 15 GPM.

2. LOAD VALVE: If required, upon turning the valve to 6. OUTLET HOSE: Hose from the outlet side of the
restrict flow, a simulated working load is created in the hydraulic tester to be connected to the hydraulic system
circuit. circuit.

3. LOW PRESSURE GAUGE: Low range gauge to

provide accurate reading at low pressure, 0 - 1000 psi.

This gauge has a protector valve which cuts out

when pressure is about to exceed the normal range
for the gauge. The cutout pressure is adjustable.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 5 - 11 Special Tools

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 Troubleshooting
The cause of an improperly functioning hydraulic sys- The charts that follow contain detailed information to
tem is best diagnosed with the use of proper testing assist in troubleshooting. There may possibly be more
equipment and a thorough understanding of the com- than one cause for a machine malfunction. All causes
plete hydraulic system. should be checked in the order in which they are listed
on the charts.
A hydraulic system with an excessive increase in heat
or noise is a potential failure. Should either of these Refer to the Testing section of this Chapter for precau-
conditions be noticed, immediately stop the machine, tions and specific test procedures.
turn off the engine, locate the cause of the trouble, and
correct it before allowing the machine to be used again.
Continued use of an improperly functioning hydraulic
system could lead to extensive internal component
damage.

System Operates in Only One Direction

Inspect Ok Inspect
traction control acceleration
linkage valves

Defective Defective

Repair Repair
linkage acceleration
valves

System Jerky When Starting

Inspect friction Ok Inspect Ok Inspect

wheel on traction control acceleration
traction pedal linkage valves

(No contact
Worn with pedal) Defective Defective

Rotate or Repair Repair

replace linkage acceleration
wheel valves

Troubleshooting Page 5 - 12 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 System Operates Hot

Check Ok Check Ok Check radiator, Ok Inspect Ok Inspect lift Check for kinked Ok Inspect Ok
Ok
engine hydraulic screen, fan, by-pass lever latch or severely bent acceleration
rpm oil level fan belt and valve position hose or tubing valves
coolant level

Defective
Low Low Open or defective Incorrect Kinked or bent Defective
cooling system

Adjust, Fill to Clean radiator & Close or Adjust Replace kinked Repair
use proper screen. Repair fan or repair lever or bent hose acceleration
tachometer level belt. Add coolant or tubing valves

Reduce load on Ok Check Ok Check Ok Inspect

transmission; traction charge pump transmission inlet
non-hydraulic pressure flow filter
problem

Low
Low Loose or clogged

Repair or replace Inspect Inspect Test Tighten

Ok Ok Ok
transmission charge implement steering or
(pump & motor) pump relief valve valve replace

Control valve
Defective Defective sticking

Repair or replace Repair or shim Repair or replace

charge pump implement steering
relief valve valve

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 5 - 13 Troubleshooting

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 Loss Of Power Or Unit Will Not Operate In Either Direction

Check Check Check Inspect Inspect Inspect traction Check charge

Ok Ok Ok Ok Ok Ok Ok
engine engine to hydraulic by-pass inlet control linkage pump
rpm transmission oil level valve filter pressure/flow
coupler

Disconnected
Low or damaged Low Open or defective Loose or clogged Loose or defective
Low

Adjust, Fill to Close Tighten Adjust

use Repair proper or or or
tachometer level repair replace repair

Inspect Inspect Inspect

Ok charge Ok implement OK charge
pump relief valve relief valve

Defective Defective Defective

Repair or replace Repair or shim Repair or shim

charge pump implement charge
relief valve relief valve

Repair or replace Ok Inspect Check

Low
transmission acceleration traction
(pump & motor) valves pressure

Defective Ok

Repair Differential
or or other
replace non-hydraulic
problem

Troubleshooting Page 5 - 14 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Check Ok Inspect Ok Check Ok Inspect lift Ok Inspect Ok
engine underside of hydraulic valve control lift arm
rpm cutting unit oil level linkage pivots

Binding, broken
Low Excess debris Low Binding
or out of adjustment

Adjust, Fill to Lubricate Lubricate

use Clean proper or or
tachometer level repair repair

Ok Check charge Inspect

Ok
pump inlet
pressure/flow filter

Low Loose or clogged

Repair or replace Inspect Inspect Ok Test Tighten

Ok Ok
transmission charge implement steering or
(pump & motor) pump relief valve valve replace

Control valve
Defective Defective sticking

Repair Repair or shim Repair or replace

charge implement steering
pump relief valve valve

Ok Test lift Ok Inspect

cylinders lift valve
for internal
leakage

Defective Defective Cutting Unit Will Not Lift or Lifts Slowly

Replace Repair
hydraulic lift valve
cylinder

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 5 - 15 Troubleshooting

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 Check steering Ok Check Ok
High Steering Effort linkage for binding
or damage
hydraulic
oil level

Defective Low

Fill to
Repair proper
level

Ok Check charge Inspect

Ok
pump transmission
pressure/flow inlet filter

Low Loose or clogged

Repair or replace Inspect Inspect Ok Test Tighten

Ok Ok
transmission charge implement steering or
(pump & motor) pump relief valve valve replace

Control valve
Defective Defective sticking

Repair Repair or shim Repair or replace

charge implement steering
pump relief valve valve

Ok Check for restric- Ok Inspect NOTE: Sticking steering valve plate can cause high
tion in return line steering valve steering effort in one direction. This is usually
(“OUT” port) caused by excessive heat in the system.

Defective Defective

Replace Repair or
hydraulic replace valve
cylinder

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 Steering Wander or Shimmy

Inspect for loose Ok Air in hydraulic Ok Inspect steering

or worn steering system cylinder for internal
linkage leakage

Defective Defective Defective

Repair linkage and Bleed air from Replace steering

adjust toe-in hydraulic system cylinder

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 Testing
The most effective method for isolating problems in the 1. Thoroughly clean the machine before disconnecting
hydraulic system is by using hydraulic test equipment or disassembling any hydraulic components. Always
such as pressure gauges and flow meters in the circuits keep in mind the need for cleanliness when working on
during various operational checks. (See the Special hydraulic equipment.
Tools section in this Chapter.)
2. Put caps or plugs on any hydraulic lines left open or
exposed during testing or removal of components.
CAUTION 3. The engine must be in good operating condition. Use
Failure to use gauges with the recommended a tachometer when making a hydraulic test. Engine
pressure (psi) rating as listed in the test pro- speed can affect the accuracy of the tester readings.
cedures could result in damage to the gauge
and possible personal injury from leaking 4. To prevent damage to tester or components, the inlet
hot oil. and the outlet hoses must be properly connected, and
not reversed (tester with pressure and flow capabilities).

Before Performing Hydraulic Tests 5. To minimize the possibility of damaging components,

co mpletely open th e load v alve by tu rning it
All obvious areas such as oil supply, filter, binding counterclockwise (tester with pressure and flow
linkage, loose fasteners, or improper adjustments must capabilities).
be checked before assuming that a hydraulic com-
ponent is the source of the problem being experienced. 6. Install fittings finger tight, far enough to insure that
they are not cross-threaded, before tightening with a
Do electrical diagnostics before performaing hydraulic wrench.
tests to make sure the electrical system is operating
properly. If the electrical system is not operating properly 7. Position the tester hoses so that rotating machine
the hydraulic system may appear to malfunction. parts will not make contact with them and result in hose
or tester damage.

8. Check the oil level in the reservoir.

WARNING
Before disconnecting or performing any work 9. Check the control linkage for improper adjustment,
on the hydraulic system, all pressure in the binding or broken parts.
system must be relieved by lowering the cut-
ting unit to the ground and shutting the en- 10. All hydraulic tests should be made with the hydraulic
gine OFF. oil at normal operating temperature.

Keep body and hands away from pin hole

leaks or nozzles that eject hydraulic fluid
under high pressure. Use paper or cardboard,
not hands, to search for leaks. Hydraulic fluid
escaping under pressure can have sufficient
force to penetrate skin and do serious
damage. If fluid is injected into the skin, it
must be surgically removed within a few
hours by a doctor familiar with this type of
injury or gangrene may result.

Testing Page 5 - 18 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 TEST NO. 1: Charge Pressure (Fig. 9)
Using a low pressure gauge: 0 - 1000 psi NOTE: If adding shims to the relief valve does not
increase the pressure, inspect the condition of the
1. Engage the parking brake, and block the front wheels charge pump gerotor and internal housing.
to prevent movement of the machine. Lower the cutting
unit or implement to the floor and turn the engine OFF. If the charge pump is in good condition (no scoring,
scratches, or excessive wear), the general condition of
2. Raise and support the seat. the transmission’s piston pump and piston motor might
be suspected of wear and inefficiency.
3. Place a drain pan under the transmission. Use a 3/16
inch Allen wrench to remove the 1/8 inch pipe plug A lack of minimum charge pressure or low flow could be
located next the implement pressure port on top of the due to the fact that the charge pump is having to direct
transmission. all of its flow to the main traction circuit (piston pump
and piston motor). When this occurs, oil pressure may
4. Connect the 0 - 1000 psi hydraulic gauge hose into not increase to the 70 - 150 psi pressure necessary to
the 1/8 inch pipe opening. open the charge relief valve; therefore, no oil can flow
into the steering and implement circuit.
5. Start the engine and move the throttle to SLOW so
that the engine idles. Use a tachometer to verify that the
engine is running at 1500 ± 50 rpm. The engine must
idle at this speed to provide sufficent charge pump flow
and pressure to lubricate the internal parts of the trans-
mission.

6. Allow the engine to run for approximately 5 minutes

so that the hydraulic oil reaches normal operating
temperature.

7. Increase the engine speed to the FULL throttle setting

and use a tachometer to verify that the engine is running
at 3200 ± 50 rpm.

8. Observe the pressure measurement on the low pres-

sure gauge. The reading should be 70 - 150 psi.

NOTE: A higher reading may be obtained due to the

back pressure in the system. This is acceptable.

9. If the pressure is below 70 psi, adjust the charge relief

valve by adding the required amount of shims from the
shim pack.

Figure 9

1. Low pressure gauge (0 - 1000 psi)

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 5 - 19 Testing

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 TEST NO. 2: Implement Relief Pressure (Fig. 9)
Using a low pressure gauge: 0 - 1000 psi hydraulic circuit. This is can be caused by parts that are
binding or build up of debris under the cutting unit. This
1. Perform steps 1 - 7 under Charge Pressure Test. adds to the amount of force that the hydraulic cylinder
must overcome. Repair such items before continuing
2. While observing the gauge, move the lift control lever with the hydraulic tests.
to the RAISE position. While holding the lever in the
RAISE position, look at the pressure reading on the If adding shims to the relief valve does not increase the
gauge. The gauge should show 700 - 800 psi. Stop the pressure, inspect the condition of the charge pump
engine and move the lift control lever to the LOWER gerotor and internal housing.
position to lower the implement to the ground.
If the charge pump is in good condition (no scoring,
3. If the pressure is below 700 psi, adjust the implement scratches, or excessive wear), the general condition of
relief valve by adding the required amount of shims from the transmission’s piston pump and piston motor might
the shim pack. be suspected of wear and inefficiency.

A lack of sufficient implement pressure could be due to

the fact that the charge pump is having to direct most of
CAUTION its flow to the main traction circuit (piston pump and
The implement relief pressure must not ex- piston motor). When this occurs, oil pressure may not
ceed 800 psi. increase to the 700 - 800 psi pressure necessary to raise
the heavy implement.

At this point, a traction pressure test could be used to

determine whether the hydrostatic transmission has
NOTE: When testing the implement relief valve pres- excessive piston group leakage and needs to be
sure, it may be found that the pressure is already set to repaired. (See Traction Pressure Test.)
the 800 psi maximum. If this is so, a slow or no lift
condition is most likely caused by an added force being
applied to the lift system and not a fault within the

Testing Page 5 - 20 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 TEST NO. 3: Traction Pressure (Fig. 10)
Using a high pressure gauge: 0 - 5000 psi

CAUTION
Failure to use a high pressure gauge 0 - 5000
psi during this traction pressure test could
result in damage to the gauge and possible
personal injury due to leaking, hot oil.

1. Before beginning the traction test, drive the machine

to an open area, lower the cutting unit, turn the engine
OFF and engage the parking brake. Connect a chain to
the rear axle. Connect the other end of the chain to an
immovable object and remove all slack from the chain.

2. Place a drain pan on the floor beneath the transmis-

sion. Remove the hex head plug from the transmission.

3. Connect the high pressure hydraulic gauge hose to

the gauge port.

4. Start the engine and allow it to run for approximately

5 minutes so that the hydraulic oil reaches normal
operating temperature.

5. Increase the engine speed to the FULL throttle setting Figure 10

and use a tachometer to achieve 3200 ± 50 rpm.
1. High pressure gauge (0 - 5000 psi)

CAUTION
To prevent damage to gauge and possible
personal injury due to leaking, hot oil, do not
exceed 5000 psi during traction pressure test.

6. Sit on the seat, and with the brakes locked, slowly

depress the top of the traction pedal. While pushing the
top of the traction pedal down, look at the pressure
reading on the gauge. The gauge should show 4000 -
4500 psi. DO NOT exceed 5000 psi.

7. If the traction pressure is lower than 4000 psi, check

the acceleration valves. If the acceleration valves are in
good condition and there is no foreign material in the
ports of the transmission, inspect the charge check
valves. If the charge check valves are in good condition,
overhaul the transmission because either the pump,
motor, or both piston groups are at fault.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 5 - 21 Testing

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 TEST NO. 4: Charge Pump Flow and Implement Relief Pressure (Fig. 11)
Using a hydraulic tester with flow meter If adding shims to the relief valve does not increase the
pressure, inspect the condition of the charge pump
1. Engage the parking brake and block the front wheels gerotor and internal housing.
to prevent movement of the machine. Lower the cutting
unit or implement to the floor and turn the engine OFF. If the charge pump is in good condition (no scoring,
scratches, or excessive wear), the general condition of
2. Raise and support the seat or remove the seat and the transmission’s piston pump and piston motor might
seat mounting plate. be suspected of wear and inefficiency.

3. Put a drain pan below the transmission. Disconnect A lack of sufficient implement pressure could be due to
the hydraulic hose from the charge pump outlet (pres- the fact that the charge pump is having to direct most of
sure) fitting on the transmission. its flow to the main traction circuit (piston pump and
piston motor). When this occurs, oil pressure may not
4. Connect the inlet hose of the tester to the fitting on increase to the 700 - 800 psi pressure necessary to raise
the transmission. Connect the tester outlet hose to the the heavy implement.
hose that was disconnected in step 3.
At this point, a traction pressure test could be used to
IMPORTANT: Make sure that the oil flow indicator determine whether the hydrostatic transmission has
arrow on the flow gauge is showing that the oil will excessive piston group leakage and needs to be
flow through the tester from the pump to the steer- repaired. (See Traction Pressure Test.)
ing valve.

5. Make sure that the tester load valve is fully open

(counterclockwise). Start the engine and allow it to run
for approximately 5 minutes so that the hydraulic oil
reaches normal operating temperature.

6. Increase the engine speed to the FULL throttle setting

and use a tachometer to verify that the engine is running
at 3200 ± 50 rpm.

7. While watching the flow and pressure gauges, slowly

close the flow control valve (load valve) until the flow
gauge reads 1.0 GPM.

8. If the pressure is below 700 psi or 1.0 GPM could not

be achieved, adjust the implement relief valve by adding
the required amount of shims from the shim pack.

CAUTION
The implement relief pressure must not ex-
ceed 800 psi.

Figure 11

1. Transmission
2. Tester
3. Load valve

Testing Page 5 - 22 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Adjustments

Traction Control Rod Adjustment (Serial Numbers Below 50000) (Fig. 12)
1. Check traction drive neutral position to assure front
wheels do not creep; refer to “Traction Drive Neutral Ad-
justment”.
2. Depress traction pedal fully. There must be 1/16 inch
(1.6 mm) between inside front edge of pedal and trian-
gular support brace. If distance is as specified, the con-
trol rod is adjusted correctly. If distance is not as
specified, proceed to step 3 for an adjustment.
3. Loosen jam nut away from front of control rod. Re-
move cotter pin and slotted nut retaining tapered socket
in pivot mount on bottom of traction pedal.
4. Adjust tapered socket as required. Slide end of ta-
pered socket through traction pedal pivot mount. Then
depress pedal and check for 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) clear-
ance between front edge of pedal and top of support
brace. Adjust tapered socket until correct adjustment re-
sults.
Figure 12
5. After control rod is adjusted correctly, secure tapered 1. 1/16 in. (1.6 mm) 4. Nuts
2. Jam nut 5. Friction wheel
socket and traction pedal together with slotted nut and 3. Cotter pin & slotted nut
cotter pin. Also tighten jam nut against front of control
rod.

Traction Control Rod Adjustment (Serial Numbers Above 50000) (Fig. 12A)

1. Check traction drive neutral position to assure front .120” (3.05 mm)
wheels do not creep; refer to “Traction Drive Neutral Ad-
justment”.
2. Loosen lock nuts and adjust traction pedal stop screw 1 3” (76.2 mm)
to a length of 3” (76.2 mm).
3. Rotate traction pump lever on transmission to full for-
ward speed location.
2
4. Adjust traction control rod end until there is a .120”
(3.05 mm) gap between top of traction pedal stop screw
and pedal. Figure 12A
5. Make sure that all nuts are properly secured after ad- 1. Traction pedal 2. Stop screw
justment.

Traction Pedal Friction Wheel Adjustment (Fig. 12)

1. Loosen two nuts securing traction pedal shaft on right 3. Tighten nuts to secure shaft and wheel in position.
side of pedal.
2. Rotate shaft to relocate worn surface of friction wheel
away from underside of traction pedal.

Groundsmaster 300 Series Page 5 – 23 Rev. G Adjustments

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 Traction Control Neutral Adjustment (Fig. 13)

1. Park vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off. D. Weak or damaged leaf springs.
Apply the parking brake, tip seat forward, and actuate
pump lever (Fig. 13) to ensure assembly is properly E. Pump lever loose on transmission control shaft.
seated and operating freely. Correct any discrepancy. Make sure that fasteners are tight (bolts or spring pin).
If necessary, remove pump lever from control shaft,
2. Jack up frame so left front wheel is off the ground. On apply Loctite #680 (or equivalent) to shaft and reat-
four wheel drive machines, jack up frame so at least one tach pump lever.
rear wheel is also off the ground. Use jack stands to sup-
port the raised machine. F. Internal transmission component malfunction (see
Repairs section of this chapter).
3. Block wheels that are on the ground so vehicle cannot
roll forward or backward. 8. Shut engine off.
4. Start engine and allow it to idle for 5 minutes to heat
9. Adjust traction control rod; refer to Traction Control
oil in transmission to operating temperatures.
Rod Adjustment in this section.
5. Release parking brake; then check that wheel(s) that
are off the ground are NOT rotating. Check for wheel 10. Check operation of neutral switch and adjust if nec-
rotation with throttle in both SLOW and FAST position. essary.
If wheel(s) that are off the ground are NOT rotating, pro-
ceed to step 8 as no adjustment is necessary.
6. If the wheel(s) that are off the ground ARE rotating,
the pump plate must be adjusted as follows: SWITCH
ADJUSTING
A. Move throttle to SLOW. SCREW
CAPSCREW

B. Loosen three (3) capscrews that secure pump

plate to transmission.

C. If wheel is rotating forward, lightly tap bottom of BALL

BEARING
pump plate counterclockwise. By contrast, tap pump
plate clockwise if wheel is rotating backward. When LEAF PUMP
wheel stops rotating, tighten capscrews to secure SPRINGS PLATE
pump plate.
PUMP
D. Check that wheel(s) that are off the ground are LEVER
NOT rotating with throttle in both SLOW and FAST
position. If necessary, repeat pump plate adjustment
until wheels do not rotate. Figure 13

7. Should wheel(s) that are off the ground continue to ro-

tate after adjustment procedure, check for the following:

A. Ball bearing is loose or worn.

B. Plunger on interlock switch is sticking.

C. Fasteners on pump control assembly are loose or

missing.

Adjustments Page 5 -- 24 Rev. I Groundsmaster 300 Series

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 Lift Lever Latch Adjustment (Fig. 14)
A lift lever latch that is positioned incorrectly can cause
the lift lever to hold the spool in an actuated position
when the implement is in the FLOAT position. This
causes oil in the hydraulic system to overheat. When lift
lever latch is adjusted correctly, the lift lever should just
clear the rounded part of the latch as lever is moved into
FLOAT position.

1. Unscrew ball from lift lever.

2. Remove self tapping screws and lift cover off

lift lever to expose the latch.

3. Loosen two capscrews on top of the lift lever latch. Figure 14

Place lever on rounded tip of latch, and slide latch
w/lever forward until stopping resistance is felt. Then 1. Capscrews 3. Lift lever
tighten capscrews to lock the latch in place. Check for 2. Rounded tab
free operation of the lift lever by moving lever from
RAISE or TRANSPORT to FLOAT position. Lift lever
should just clear rounded position of latch as lever is
moved into FLOAT position.

4. Slide cover into place and install it with self tapping

screws. Screw ball onto lift lever.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 5 - 25 Adjustments

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 Repairs

Transmission Trunnion Seal Replacement (Fig. 15)

1. Remove the control lever and the interlock switch
assembly from the trunnion shaft on the right side of the
transmission.

2. Remove the snap ring from the end of trunnion shaft

and slide the flat washer off of the shaft. Using a seal
puller; pull the seal out of the housing. Do not scratch
the shaft.

NOTE: Since oil drains out of the transmission when the

seal is removed, use a drain pan to catch the oil;
however, do not use this oil again.

3. Examine the trunnion shaft and remove all burrs,

sharp edges and residue.

4. Using a seal protector, press a new seal into the

transmission housing and assure that it is seated Figure 15
properly.

NOTE: In place of a seal protector, use plastic wrap or

a similar material to wrap the shaft. This protects the lip
of the seal from possible damage when sliding it onto
the shaft and pressing it onto the housing.

5. Slide the flat washer onto the shaft and install the
snap ring into the groove at the end of the shaft. Do not
use a flat washer that is bent.

6. Install the control lever and the interlock switch as-

sembly on the right side of the transmission. Adjust the
traction pedal control rod and linkage for neutral, refer
to "Traction Control Neutral Adjustment".

7. Since some oil drained out of the transmission when

the seals were replaced, check the oil level in the axle
housing. Start the engine and let it run for about one or
two minutes. Then turn the engine off and check the oil
level in the axle housing again. Also check the seals in
the transmission for oil leaks.

Repairs Page 5 - 26 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Transmission By-Pass Valve (Fig. 16)
1. Place a drain pan below the by-pass valve.

2. Remove the by-pass valve assembly from the center

section by turning it counterclockwise. Some oil may
flow into the drain pan.

3. Inspect the threads on the by-pass valve. Replace the

valve if the threads are damaged.

4. Check the O-ring and back-up ring for damage.

If the parts are damaged, replace them.

5. If the O-ring or back up ring was removed

because of damage, slide the new back up ring into the
groove at the center of the valve, then install the O-ring Figure 16
into the same groove.
1. Transmission by-pass valve
6. To install the by-pass valve, screw it into the center
section. Tighten the valve to 5 - 8 ft-lb.

7. Since some oil drained out of the transmission when

the by-pass valve was removed, check the oil level in
the axle housing. Start the engine and let it run for about
one or two minutes. Then turn the engine off and check
the oil level in the axle housing again. Also, inspect the
by-pass valve area for oil leaks.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 5 - 27 (Rev. H) Repairs

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 Transmission Acceleration Valves (Fig. 17)
1 . Place a drain pan below the acceleration valves.

2. Remove both acceleration valve plugs and O-rings

from the sides of the center section. Some oil may flow
into the drain pan.

3. Slide the acceleration valve and spring out of the

center section. Also slide the other acceleration valve
out of the opposite side of the center section.

NOTE: There are two acceleration valves in the center

section, but only one spring.

4. Remove the O-rings from the plugs.

Figure 17
5. Inspect the plugs, valves and center section for
damage or stripped threads. Replace any damaged
part.

6. Inspect the bore of the acceleration valve for damage

and foreign material. If the valve is damaged, replace it;
however, clean the valve with cleaning fluid and use it
again if foreign material is in its bore.

7. Check the spring for damage and correct specifica-

tions. Replace the spring if its condition is doubtful.
Spring specifications are listed in the table below.

Acceleration Valve Spring Specifications

Free Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.25 in.

Number of Coils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23-1/2
Outside Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.297-0.303 in.
Pounds per Inch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

8. To install acceleration valves, place a new O-ring onto

both acceleration valve plugs.

9. Slide one acceleration valve into the center section,

then install plug. Then, slide the spring and remaining
acceleration valve into the opposite side of the center
section. Install the remaining plug to retain the parts in
place.

10. Since some oil has drained out of transmission when

the acceleration valves were removed, check the oil
level in the axle housing. Start the engine and let it run
for about one or two minutes. Then turn the engine off
and check the oil level in the axle housing again. Also
inspect the acceleration valve areas for oil leaks.

Repairs Page 5 - 28 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Transmission Implement Relief Valve (Fig. 18)
1. Place a drain pan below the implement relief valve.

2. Remove the implement relief plug and O-ring from the

side of the pump housing. Slide the shim pack, spring
and cone out of the pump housing. Some oil may flow
out of the transmission.

NOTE:Count the shims when they are removed. The

same number of shims must be installed when assem-
bling the parts. Do not interchange implement relief
shims with charge relief shims.

3. Remove the O-ring from the plug.

4. Inspect the plug and the pump housing for stripped Figure 18
threads. Replace any part that is damaged. Also, check
the seat inside the pump housing for damage and
foreign material.

5. Inspect the relief valve cone for noticeable damage.

If cone is damaged, replace it.

6. Check the spring for damage and correct specifica-

tions. Replace the spring if its condition is doubtful.
Spring specifications are listed in the table below.

Implement Relief Spring Specifications

Free Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.804 in.

Number of Coils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Outside Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.260 - 0.262 in.
Pounds per Inch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339

7. To install the implement relief valve, slide the new

O-ring onto the implement relief plug.

8. In sequence, install the cone, spring, and shim pack

into the pump housing. Install the plug to retain the parts
in place.

9. Since some oil drained out of the transmission when

the implement relief valve was removed, check the oil
level in the axle housing. Start the engine and let it run
for about one or two minutes.Then turn the engine off
and check the oil level in the axle housing again. Also,
inspect implement relief plug area for oil leaks.

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 Transmission Charge Relief Valve (Fig. 19)
1 . Place a drain pan below the charge relief valve.

2. Remove the charge relief plug and O-ring from the

side of the pump housing. Slide the shim pack, spring
and ball or cone out of the housing. Some oil may flow
out of the transmission.

NOTE: Count the shims when they are removed. The

same number of shims must be installed when assem-
bling the parts. Do not interchange charge relief shims
with implement relief shims.

3. Remove the O-ring from the plug.

4. Inspect the plug and pump housing for stripped Figure 19

threads. Replace any part that is damaged. Also check
the seat inside the pump housing for damage and
foreign material.

5. Check the spring for damage and correct specifica-

tions. Replace the spring if is condition is doubtful.
Spring specifications are listed in the table below.

Charge Relief Spring Specifications

Free Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.051 in.

Number of Coils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Outside Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.249 - 0.251 in.
Pounds per Inch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.8

6. To install the charge relief valve, slide a new O-ring

onto the charge relief plug.

7. In sequence, insert the check ball or cone, spring, and

shim pack into the pump housing. Install the plug to
retain the parts in place.

8. Since some oil drained out of the transmission when

the charge relief valve was removed,check the oil level
in the axle housing. Start the engine and let it run for
about one or two minutes. Then turn the engine off and
check the oil level in axle housing again. Also inspect
the charge relief plug area for oil leaks.

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 Transmission Charge Pump (Fig. 20, 21)
1. Remove the drive coupling from between the engine
pulley and the transmission hub; refer to "Removing
Drive Coupling" in Chapter 10.

2. Remove the taper lock (if applicable) and the hub from
the transmission shaft.

3. Examine the transmission pump shaft and remove all

burrs, sharp edges and residue to prevent possible
damage to the lip seal.

NOTE: Disassembly of the charge pump is not neces-

sary when the seal is the only part that must be replaced
(see step four). Servicing any other part of the charge
pump requires disassembly (see step 5).

4. If the charge pump seal is the only part being ser-

viced, pull the seal out of the charge pump housing
using the oil seal puller or similar tool. Do not scratch
the pump shaft. Since oil flows out of the transmission
when the seal is removed, use a drain pan to catch the Figure 20
oil; however, do not use this oil again.

5. If the charge pump must be disassembled, scribe a

mark on charge pump housing and adjacent pump
housing to assure correct installation when parts are
assembled.

NOTE: Charge pump housings that have the letters LH

and RH on the external surface must be installed with
the letters LH positioned closest to the top of the
transmission.

6. Remove the cap screws holding the charge pump

housing against the adjacent pump housing. Using a
seal protector, slide the charge pump housing and
gerotor wheel off of the pump shaft. The O-ring will
probably stay in the groove on the inside of the pump
housing.

NOTE: If a seal protector is not used, wrap the pump

shaft with plastic wrap to protect the seal. When sliding
the housing and gerotor wheel off of the pump shaft, the
drive pin may drop out of the pump shaft. Do not lose
the pin because it is the only part that drives the gerotor
wheel. Without the pin, the gerotor wheel will not rotate;
thus, no "charge pressure" and no hydraulic functions.

7. Examine the gerotor wheel and the inside of the

charge pump housing for excessive wear patterns,
scratches or score marks. If a part is damaged beyond
repair, replace it.

IMPORTANT: If either the gerotor wheel or the

charge pump housing is damaged, replace both
parts. Never replace only one part because the
charge pump housing and gerotor wheel have a
definite wear-in characteristic.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 5 - 31 Repairs

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 8. Examine the bearing in the charge pump housing for
damage and free rotation. If the bearing is damaged,
replace the bearing and seal.

9. To assemble the charge pump, install a new O-ring

into the groove in charge pump housing.

10. Apply transmission oil on the gerotor wheel and the

inside of the charge pump housing. Slide the drive pin
through the hole in the pump shaft. (It is helpful to have
this hole positioned horizontally, as shown, to keep the
pin in place during reassembly.) Then slide the gerotor
wheel onto the pump shaft and drive pin so positive
engagement results.

11. Using a seal protector for the lip seal, slide the
charge pump housing onto the pump shaft and against
the side of the adjacent pump housing. Align the scribe
marks in both housings to assure proper assembly and
to prevent damage to the transmission.
Figure 21
Most Sundstrand charge pump housings are marked
with the letters RH and LH. These are used to denote
which side of the charge pump is mounted towards the
top of the transmission for a given direction of engine
rotation (i.e. clockwise). The GROUNDSMASTER
mower application requires that the "LH" markings be
toward the top of the transmission. Having "LH" toward
the bottom of the transmission will result in a complete
loss of hydraulic functions.

NOTE: In place of a seal protector, use plastic wrap or

a similar material to wrap the pump shaft. This protects
the seal from possible damage when sliding it onto the
pump shaft. Apply transmission oil on the plastic wrap
to make the seal slide freely.

12. Secure the charge pump housing against the ad-

jacent housing with four cap screws. Tighten the cap
screws to 12 - 15 ftlb.

IMPORTANT: Excessive pressure on the pump shaft

will shear the pin that propels the gerotor wheel. If
the pin should shear, the transmission will not
operate.

13. Install the drive coupling and transmission hub to the

engine pulley; refer to "Installing Drive Couplings" in
Chapter 10.

14. Since some oil has drained out of the transmission

when the charge pump was serviced, check the oil level
in axle housing. Start the engine and let it run for about
one or two minutes. Then turn the engine off and check
oil level in the axle housing again. Also check the seal
in the charge pump for oil leaks.

Repairs Page 5 - 32 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Transmission Removal and Installation
1. Position the machine on a level surface in a clean 7. Loosen and remove the engine to transmission
area of the workshop.Block all four wheels of the unit to coupler; refer to "Removing Drive Coupling" of Chapter
prevent it from moving. 10.

2. Lower the cutting unit or implement to the shop floor. 8. Disconnect and remove the traction pedal rod where
Turn the engine off and remove the key from the ignition it fastens to the transmission.
switch.
9. Support the transmission to prevent it from failing
3. Disconnect the positive battery terminal from the while removing the two cap screws that secure the
battery. Place the cable out of the way and in such a transmission to the differential.
position that it cannot spring back and make contact with
the positive battery terminal. 10. Carefully pull the transmission out of the differential
and guide it down and out from under the machine.
4. Raise the seat of the machine and secure it in that
position. 11. Remove the gasket that fits between the transmis-
sion and differential.
5. Place a drain pan underneath the differential.
Remove any loose sand, grass, or debris from the top 12. Thoroughly clean the area of the differential. where
of the transmission. Place a drain pan underneath the the new or rebuilt transmission will be installed.
differential and hydrostat. Remove the oil line that con-
nects the differential to the transmission or hydraulic 13. Reverse steps 1 - 10 to reinstall the transmission
filter. Allow oil to drain. Cap or plug the lines and fittings. and use Loctite 271 on the two cap screws that hold the
hydrostat to the differential.
6. Remove the hydraulic lines that connect to the trans-
mission. Cap or plug all hoses and fittings to prevent 14. Replace the hydraulic oil filter and fill the system
contamination. NOTE: To ease reassembly, tag all lines with oil.
as to their proper location.

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 Transmission Overhaul
As the transmission components are removed for ser- by a minimum amount of polishing or touch lapping;
vice and inspection, it should be noted that nominal rework and use them again.
wear to the components is acceptable. Critical contact
surfaces (i.e. charge pump gerotor, piston slippers, etc.) When scratches or grooves can be detected by "feel"
must be in good condition or the system will be with a fingernail or lead pencil, the part should be
inefficient. replaced. Polishing or touch lapping can be ac-
complished using 4/0 grit sandpaper on a flat lapping
When components have circumferential scratches or table (table must be kept flat). Polish parts using polish-
grooves noted on the running surfaces, it is an indication ing solvent or equivalent. Do not polish parts dry.
of foreign material in the hydraulic oil.
IMPORTANT: Lapping plate must be flat within
If upon inspection of the critical contact surfaces you 0.00005 inch.
notice circumferential scratches that might be removed

Separating Transmission Into Sections (Fig. 23)

The transmission must be separated into three main 6. Pull the pump housing away from the center section.
sections to perform major overhaul. The three sections Do not let the internal parts fall out of the housing
are: pump section, center section, and motor section. because damage may result.

NOTE: The following procedures are for major overhaul NOTE: The pump valve plate will probably adhere to the
of the in-line transmission. Servicing the charge pump, side of the center section. Do not let it fall when separat-
seals and valves is covered on previous pages. ing the pump housing from the center section.

1. Before separating the transmission, scribe or paint an 7. Remove the pump valve plate and gasket.
alignment mark on each housing to assure correct
reassembly of the sections. 8. Set the pump housing and pump valve plate aside.
Keep the pump valve plate separate from the motor
2. Remove the four cap screws in small increments so valve plate becaus e these par ts are not
the three main sections separate evenly. As the cap interchangeable.
screws are loosened, oil will drain from the housings.

NOTE: When the cap screws are first loosened, an

internal spring load causes the sections to separate
slightly.

3. When the four cap screws are removed, pull the motor
housing away from the center section. Do not let the
internal parts fall out of the housing because damage
may result.

NOTE: The motor valve plate will probably adhere to the

side of the center section. Do not let it fall when separat-
ing the motor housing from the center section.

4. Remove the motor valve plate and gasket.

5. Set the motor housing and motor valve plate aside.

Keep the motor valve plate separate from the pump Figure 23
valve plate becaus e these par ts are not
interchangeable.

Repairs Page 5 - 34 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Transmission Pump Section (Fig. 24, 25, 26, 27)
1. Separate the pump housing from the center section;
refer to "Separating Transmission Into Sections,".

2. Lift the cylinder block assembly out of the pump

housing. Do not be concerned if the pistons come out
of the cylinder block because they do not have a special
order in the cylinder block

NOTE: Since the entire cylinder block assembly must

be replaced if it is defective, do not disassemble the
spring and other parts from the center bore of the
cylinder block. Cylinder block components are not inter-
changeable.

3. Remove the thrust plate from the counterbore in the

variable position swash plate.

4. Wrap the port side of the pump housing with a clean Figure 24
rag to protect the face of the housing. Set the pump
housing on to a clean work bench.

5. Drive the spring pins through the swash plate and out
of the trunnion and control shafts.

NOTE: There are two spring pins on the control shaft

side of the pump housing and one pin on the trunnion
shaft side. The control shaft must have two pins be-
cause of the continuous "applied force" from the traction
pedal during operation.

6. Mark the control shaft and housing so the shaft can

be installed correctly when the parts are reassembled.
Slide a long punch through the hole at the end of the
control shaft and pull the shaft out of the bore in the
swash plate and pump housing.

7. Slide a 3/8 x 7 inch wooden dowel into the bore at the Figure 25
control shaft side of the housing. Place the dowel
against the end of the trunnion shaft and drive it out of
the housing.

8. Lift the swash plate out of the pump housing and off
of the pump shaft.

9. If the pump shaft or bearing must be serviced, use

the following steps to remove the parts:

A. Remove the snap ring from the housing.

B. Slide the pump shaft and bearing out of the

housing, toward the large open end.

C. Remove the snap ring from the shaft.

D. Press the bearing off of the pump shaft, toward

the keyed end.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 5 - 35 Repairs

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 10. Clean and inspect the following parts: be 1/4 inch below the surface of the swash plate.
Make sure the swash plate swings freely; 15
A. Thrust Plate - Check both sides for damage and degrees to each side of center.
flatness.
14. Lubricate the thrust plate with transmission oil. Slide
B. Cylinder Block Assembly - Check surfaces for the thrust plate onto the pump shaft and into the counter-
wear, scratches and scoring. Also, check the slip- bore of the swash plate.
pers for damage and make sure the pistons are free
in the bores. 15. Lubricate the pump cylinder block parts with oil.
Assemble the cylinder block parts and slide the cylinder
C. Ball Bearing - Check for free rotation and notice- block assembly onto the pump shaft. The cylinder block
able damage. must slide onto the splines near center of the shaft.
Assure that the thrust plate remains seated in the
D. Pump Shaft - Check for scratches, scoring, counterbore and that the piston slippers contact the face
damaged splines and burrs near keyway. of the thrust plate.

E. Control and Trunnion Shafts - Check for wear, 16. Push against the back of the cylinder block. A slight
scratches and burrs. spring pressure assures correct installation of the parts.

F. Needle Bearings - Check needle bearings in the 17. Assemble the transmission sections if no other
pump housing for free rotation and any noticeable service work is required, refer to "Assembling Transmis-
damage. sion Section".

G. Swash Plate - Inspect the swash plate for damage

and any noticeable imperfections.

NOTE: Replace any defective part. Remember that the

cylinder block assemblies must be replaced as a com-
plete component, not individual parts. Interchanging
parts between the pump cylinder block assembly and
the motor cylinder block assembly will cause the trans-
mission to malfunction.

11. Lubricate the bearing with transmission oil and press

the bearing onto the shaft. Install the snap ring onto the
shaft. Then slide the shaft and bearing into the pump
housing from the large open side. Install the large snap
ring into the pump housing.

12. Slide the swash plate onto the pump shaft and into Figure 26
the pump housing. The counterbore side of the swash
plate must face up.

13. Align the holes on both sides of the swash plate with
the holes on both sides of the pump housing. Next, slide
the control and trunnion shafts into the housing and
swash plate. Make sure the control shaft is on the
implement relief side of the housing - see alignment
marks on the shaft and housing. Secure the shafts and
swash plate together with the spring pins.

IMPORTANT: Use only new spring pins when as­

sembling the swash plate and shafts - two pins
through the control shaft and one pin through the
trunnion shaft. When installing two pins through the
swash plate and control shaft, drive the first pin
flush with the swash plate and install the other pin
onto the top of the first pin. Drive both pins in until
the top pin is 1/4 inch below the surface of the swash Figure 27
plate. The pin holding the trunnion shaft must also

Repairs Page 5 - 36 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Transmission Center Section (Fig. 28)
1 . Separate the center section from the motor and pump NOTE: Replace any defective parts. The slotted plugs,
housings; refer to "Separating Transmission Into valve springs, and check balls are interchangeable.
Sections".
6. If the needle bearings were removed, press new
2. Wrap the pump side of the center section with a clean bearings into the center section. Allow 3/32 - 1/8 inch of
rag to protect its face. Set the center section on a clean the bearing to extend beyond the face of the center
work bench so that the motor side faces up. The rag will section because the motor valve plate and pump valve
protect the pump side of the center section from direct plate pilot on the two bearings.
contact with the top of the work bench.
7. Press the locating pins into the holes in the motor side
3. Remove the two slotted directional charge check and pump side of the center section.
plugs from the motor side of the center section. Invert
the center section and allow the two valve springs and 8. Insert the check balls and valve springs into the two
check balls to fall into your cupped hand. Also remove holes in the motor side of the center section. Slide the
the two O-rings from the pump side of the center section. O-rings onto the slotted plugs and install the plugs into
the two holes in the motor side of center section. Insert
4. If the needle bearings must be serviced, press them the two new O-rings into the holes in the pump side of
out of the center section. the center section.

5. Clean and inspect the following parts: 9. Assemble the transmission sections if no other ser-
vice work is required; refer to "Assembling Transmission
A. Slotted plugs and O-rings - Check the slotted Sections".
plugs for damaged threads and burrs. Also check the
O-ring for tears. It is a good practice to install new
O-rings whenever the slotted plugs are removed.

B. Valve Springs and Check Balls - Check the valve

springs and check balls for damage. Spring
specifications are listed in the table below.

Check Valve Spring Specifications

Free Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.550 in

Number of Coils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Outside Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.217 - 0.219 in.
Pounds Per Inch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.67

C. Needle Bearings - Check for free rotation and any

Figure 28
noticeable damage.

D. Dowel Pins - Check the dowel pin on the motor

side and the pump side of the center section for wear
and damage.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 5 - 37 Repairs

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 Transmission Motor Section (Fig. 29, 30)
1. Separate the motor housing from the center section; NOTE: Make sure the splines at the end of the motor
refer to "Separating Transmission Into Sections". shaft are toward the flange side of the motor housing.

2. Lift the cylinder block assembly out of the motor 7. Lubricate the thrust plate with transmission oil. Slide
housing. The pistons may come out of the cylinder the thrust plate onto the motor shaft and into the
block, but do not be concerned; they do not have a counterbore of the motor housing.
special order in the cylinder block.
8. Lubricate the motor cylinder block parts with trans-
NOTE: Since the entire cylinder block assembly must mission oil. Assemble the cylinder block parts and slide
be replaced if it is defective, do not disassemble the the cylinder block assembly onto the motor shaft. The
spring and other parts from center bore of the cylinder cylinder block must slide onto the splines near the
b lo c k . C yl i nd er b lo c k c o m po nent s ar e no t center of the shaft.
interchangeable.
NOTE: Assure that the thrust plate remains seated in
3. Remove the thrust plate from the counterbore in the the counterbore and that the piston slippers contact the
motor housing. face of the thrust plate.

4. If the motor shaft or bearing must be serviced, remove 9. Push against the back of the cylinder block. A slight
the snap ring from the motor housing. Slide the motor spring pressure assures the correct installation of parts.
shaft and bearing out of the housing toward the
10. Assemble the transmission sections if no other
flange end. If the shaft sticks in the housing, tap it lightly service work is required; refer to "Assembling Transmis-
with a rubber hammer to remove it. sion Sections" which follows.

5. Clean and inspect the following parts:

A. Motor Valve Plate - Check for wear, scratches and

scoring.

B. Thrust Plate - Check both sides for damage and

flatness.

C. Cylinder Block Assembly-Check the surfaces for

wear, scratches and scoring. Also, check the slip-
pers for damage and make sure the pistons are free
in the bores of the cylinder block.

D. Ball Bearing - Check for free rotation and any Figure 29

noticeable damage.

E. Motor Shaft - Check for scratches, scoring or

damaged splines.

NOTE: Replace any defective part. Remember that the

cylinder block assemblies must be replaced as a com-
plete component, not individual parts. Do not inter-
change parts between the motor cylinder block
assembly and the pump cylinder block assembly be-
cause the transmission will not operate at its optimum
capacity.

6. Lubricate the bearing with transmission oil. Press the

bearing onto the motor shaft. Slide the motor shaft and
bearing into the motor housing from the flange side.
Install the snap ring into the groove at the flange end of
the motor housing.
Figure 30

Repairs Page 5 - 38 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Assembling Transmission Sections (Fig. 31, 32)
1. Apply transmission oil on both sides of the center
section. Place the gaskets in position against the pump
and motor sides of the center section.

NOTE: The transmission oil should hold the gaskets

against the sides of the center section.

2. Identify the motor side of the center section by locat-

ing the two slotted directional charge check plugs. Apply
transmission oil on the surfaces of the motor valve plate
and install the recessed groove side of the motor valve
plate against the side of the center section. The slot in
the valve plate must fit over the locating pin. Make sure
that the center of the valve plate pilots on the needle
bearing extending out of the center section.

IMPORTANT: The motor valve plate and the pump

valve plate are not interchangeable. Identify the
motor valve plate by the four V-notches in the kidney Figure 31
shaped grooves. The pump valve plate has two
V-notches in the grooves.

3. Apply transmission oil on the surfaces of the pump

valve plate and install the recessed-groove side of the
pump valve plate against the pump side of center sec-
tion. The slot in the valve plate must fit over the locating
pin. Assure that the center of the valve plate pilots on
the needle bearing extending out of the center section.

4. Assemble the center section between the motor

housing and the pump housing. The line scribed or
painted on the motor housing, center section, and pump
housing must line up to assure the correct assembly of
the parts.
Figure 32
NOTE: When assembling the three main sections,
make sure the gaskets, valve plates, and cylinder block
assemblies remain in place.

5. Use new capscrews and special flat washer when

assembling the transmission sections. Lubricate the
four cap screws with oil and secure the three main
sections together. Alternately, and in gradual incre-
ments, tighten the cap screws to 34 - 37 ft-lb.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 5 - 39 Repairs

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 Priming After Transmission Overhaul Or Replacement
Use the following procedures to prime the hydraulic 4. Start the engine and operate the traction and lift
system whenever the Sundstrand Transmission is over- system controls for approximately five minutes. Then
hauled or replaced: turn the engine off.

1. Pour a quantity of transmission oil into the transmis- 5. Allow the machine to stand idle for approximately two
sion before mounting it to the machine. minutes, remove the dipstick and check the oil level. If
the oil level is too high, drain the system until it is at the
2. Fill a new filter with fresh, clean oil and install it onto correct level. Add oil if the fluid level is too low.
the transmission.

3. Remove the dipstick from the pipe nipple in the

differential assembly and add oil to the proper level.

Repairs Page 5 - 40 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Lift Cylinder Removal and Installation (Fig. 33)
1. Lower the cutting unit to the shop floor and turn the
engine off. Jack up the right front side of the traction unit
and support it with a jack stank. Remove the wheel nuts
and slide the wheel off of the mounting studs.

2. Remove the hoses from the lift cylinder and cap the
hoses to prevent contamination.

3. Remove the hair pin cotters and spring from the cotter
pin. Remove the mounting pins and slide the cylinder
from between the lift arm and the stationary mounting
bracket.
Figure 33
4. Install the new or rebuilt cylinder with the pins and
assure the cotter pin which secures the moveable end
of the cylinder is to the outside. Hook the chain tension
spring through the eye of the cotter pin.

5. Connect the hydraulic hoses from the control valve to

the cylinder.

6. Install the wheel and tighten the nuts to 45 - 55 ft-lb.

Remove the jack stank and lower the deck to the shop
floor.

7. Check the level of the hydraulic oil to be sure it is up

to the proper level. Start the engine and operate the lift
cylinder to remove air from the lines. Turn the engine off.

8. Check the level of the hydraulic oil again to be sure it

is up to the proper level.

9. NOTE: The hydraulic fitting elbow located at the back

of the lift cylinder has a special orifice size to determine
the actuation speed of the cylinder. Always use the
proper Toro replacement part for this fitting to prevent
damage to the hydraulic system.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 5 - 41 Repairs

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 Lift Cylinder Repair (Fig. 34)
Pump the oil out of the cylinder into a drain pan by 10. Use a new seal kit (Items 3, 6 - 10) to replace all
moving the piston back and forth. O-rings, seals and back-up rings.

1. Wash the lift cylinder in solvent and dry it thoroughly. IMPORTANT: The dust seal lips must point outward;
the seal must have the O-ring portion facing
2. Mount the lift cylinder vertically in a vise so the shaft towards the inside of the cylinder.
end of the cylinder is facing up.
11. The rod end is retained with 75 - 90 ft-lbs torque and
3. Push the head (Item 5) into the barrel (Item 13) with Loctite Retaining Compound (very strong).
approximately 3/4 inch. Remove the retaining ring
(Item 4). 12. Tighten the piston head locknut to 75 - 90 ft-lb.
Remove the piston, head and shaft assembly from the
4. Grasp the large end of the shaft and use a twisting vise.
and pulling motion to carefully extract the piston
(Item 11), shaft (Item 2) and head (Item 5) from the NOTE: Coat all O-rings, seals, wiper rings and the
cylinder bore. interior bore of the cylinder with a light coating of
hydraulic oil to ease assembly.
5. Remove the cylinder from the vise.
13. Install the barrel into the vise in the vertical position
6. Securely mount the piston, shaft and head assembly described in step 3.
into the vise so that the large nut (Item 12) is easily
assessable for removal. 14. Slide the shaft, piston and head assembly into the
barrel, aligning the ports for the hydaulic lines as
7. Remove the large nut from the end of the shaft. needed.

8. Remove the piston and head from the shaft. 15. Install the retaining ring to secure the head in the
barrel. Pull up on the piston to make sure the retaining
9. Inspect the head, shaft and piston for excessive ring is in place.
scoring, pitting or wear. Replace any defective parts.

13

12
6
6 7
11
10
7
6
5
9
4
8
3
2

Figure 34

Repairs Page 5 - 42 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Lift Valve Removal and Installation (Fig. 35)
1. Unscrew the ball from the lift lever.

2. Remove the self-tapping screws and lift the cover off

of the lift lever to expose the valve.

3. Loosen and remove the hydraulic lines that are

attached to the valve. Cap or plug all of the fittings and
hoses to prevent contamination.

4. Remove the five cap screws and locknuts that secure

the valve and lever to the main frame.

5. Lift out the control valve. Figure 35

6. Reverse order to install a new or reconditioned con-
trol valve.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 5 - 43 Repairs

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 Lift Valve Repair (Fig. 36)
1. After removing the control valve assembly, wash the
valve in solvent and dry it thoroughly.

2. Carefully mount the control valve into a vise so that

the control valve mounting pads are against the jaws of
the vise. The control valve spool snap ring (Item 15)
should be facing up.

3. Remove the hex cap plug (Item 1) from the side of

the valve body. Within the valve body, beneath each hex
cap plug, there is a spring (Item 3), ball (Item 4) and cam
pin (Item 6); withdraw these parts.

4. Remove the snap ring (Item 15) from the spool

(Item 8). Carefully push and twist the spool to remove
the spool from the valve body.

5. Use a hooked scribe or thin screwdriver to remove

the O-rings from the inside bore of the valve body (be
careful not to scratch valve bore finish). These O-rings
are the seals for the spool itself. Inspect all components
for wear, paying special attention to the spool itself.
Signs of wear on one side of the spool may indicate a
bent spool. Inspect the spool for flatness and replace if
necessary.

6. After completing reassembly by reversing these pro-

cedures and after having installed new O-rings
and seals.

7. Prior to reassembly coat all the O-rings with oil to ease Figure 36
assembly. Install the spool into the valve body before
inserting the cam pins, balls, springs and hex plugs.

Repairs Page 5 - 44 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Chapter 6

Electrical System
Table of Contents
WIRING SCHEMATICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Glow Plugs (Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D only) . . . . . 22
Groundsmaster 345. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Fuel Stop Solenoid
SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 (Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
TROUBLESHOOTING (Groundsmaster 345) . . . . . . . . . 6 Fuel Stop Control Unit
Starting Problems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 (Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Operation Problems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Indicator Lights, Buzzers and Gauges. . . . . . . . 26
Verify Interlock Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Temperature Relay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
TROUBLESHOOTING (Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D) . . 12 Temperature Gauge Sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Starting Problems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Engine Oil Pressure Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Operation Problems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Fuel Gauge Sending Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Verify Interlock Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 REPAIRS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
TESTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Battery Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Ignition Key Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Fuses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Seat Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Traction (Neutral) Switch Replacement . . . . . . . 32
Traction (Neutral) Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 PTO Interlock Switch Replacement. . . . . . . . . . 33
PTO Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Seat Switch Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Starter Interlock Relay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 6 - 1 Table of Contents

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 Wiring Schematics

Groundmaster 345
(Serial Number less than 40000)

Wiring Schematics Page 6 − 2 Rev. E Groundsmaster 300 Series

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 Groundmaster 345
(Serial Number 40001 to 200999999)

Wiring Schematics Page 6 − 2.1 Rev. E Groundsmaster 300 Series

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

 OFF
F1 15 A F4 7.5 A
OR BI RUN Y PK PK GN TO HIGH TEMP OVERRIDE SWITCH
85 86
(CONNECTED TO GROUND ON OVER TEMP CONDITION)
START
PK 87
A 30
87a B+ TO FUSIBLE LINK HARNESS

Wiring Schematics
S VIO OR
OVER TEMP SHUT DOWN 87a
VIO 30 GY+BK B+
F2 7.5 A 87
X BU BU Start
Groundmaster 345

GY Y PK
OR
GN GN Y Y 86 85 BK STARTER
PTO SWITCH NEUTRAL SWITCH
(OFF) START ENABLE
F3 15 A (NEUTRAL)
OPTIONAL LIGHT LOGIC
BU DIODE BU BK
/ FUSE BLOCK (D2)
PROTECTION
OR Y Y W W BK DIODE (D1)
FUSIBLE LINK HARNESS 85 86
SEAT SWITCH PARKING BRAKE SWITCH

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FL1 (OFF) (ON)
R GY R/BK R/BK ENGINE
(Serial Number higher than 21000000)

OR
87
FL2 30 FUEL SOLENOID
N.C. BK
87a
FL3
R GY RUN ENABLE
B+
TIE POINT
POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE ON STARTER CONTROL IGNITION DELAY MODULE
R/BK
4 0.5 SECOND 1 BK
PK OFF DELAY
3 2
PK R/BK
NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE
B B
R/BK BK
R
TO OVER TEMP
SHUTDOWN RELAY
(+) ( )
FORD ENGINE HARNESS R/LGN BK
GN
ENGINE FRAME D A POWER 11 R/LGN
BATTERY GROUND GROUND PK BN
OVER FUSE 7.5A

Page 6 − 2.2
ALL MAIN HARNESS GROUND POINTS PK PK PK PK PK TEMP GROUND 10 BK
E
MARKED AS BLACK WIRE ARE PK BN (+) W
CONNECTED TOGETHER AND TO +8 7 I L I L VRS+ 23 W/LBU
ALT
THE ENGINE GROUND
6 S S F
GY VRS 22 LGNW
5 HR Y TEMP BU FUEL OIL
4 PRES CRANK POSITION SENSOR
BN C B SPARK RETARD A 7 Y/LGN
GN
3 ( ) G G PK
2 BK BK BK
1 GLOW

Rev. E
SPARK RETARD B 8 Y/LGN
B R HIGHTEMP OVERRIDE CLUSTER GAUGE
(MOMENTARY) MAP A 16 BR/W
R PK
(OFF) MAP SENSOR
L W MAP B 17 G/BK
Y BU GY W
ALTERNATOR BN SENSOR COM 9 GN/R
ENGINE OVER TEMP . TEMPERATURE FUEL BK OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
(TEMPERATURE OK) SENDER SENDER (LOW PRESSURE) COOLANT TEMP 18 LGN/R TEMP SENSOR
ENGINE ENGINE BK ENGINE
SPARK 1&4 6 Y/BK

SPARK COM 4 R/LGN

KEY TO WIRE COLORS
BK = BLACK GN = GREEN R = RED OR = ORANGE LGN = LIGHT GREEN SPARK 2&3 3 Y/W
BR = BROWN GY = GRAY Y = YELLOW PK = PINK LBU = LIGHT BLUE
BU = BLUE T = TAN W = WHITE VIO = VIOLET
IGNITION CONTROL IGNITION COIL
MODULE

Groundsmaster 300 Series

 Groundmaster 322−D/325−D
(Serial Number less than 20000000)

Wiring Schematics Page 6 − 3 Rev. E Groundsmaster 300 Series

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 OFF
F1 15 A F4 7.5 A
BI RUN
OR Y PK PK GN TO HIGH TEMP OVERRIDE SWITCH
85 86 (CONNECTED TO GROUND ON OVER TEMP CONDITION)
START
PK 87
A 30

Wiring Schematics
87a B+ TO FUSIBLE LINK HARNESS
S OVER TEMP SHUT DOWN OR
VIO 87a
30 B+
F2 7.5 A VIO GY+BK
Groundmaster 345

X 87
Y BU BU Start
GY PK
OR
Y Y
86 85
GN GN BK STARTER
PTO SWITCH NEUTRAL SWITCH
(OFF) START ENABLE
F3 15 A (NEUTRAL)
OPTIONAL LIGHT LOGIC
BU
DIODE BU BK

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/ FUSE BLOCK (D2)
PROTECTION
OR Y Y W W BK DIODE (D1)
FUSIBLE LINK HARNESS 85 86
SEAT SWITCH PARKING BRAKE SWITCH
(Serial Number higher than 21000000)

FL1 (OFF) (ON)

R GY R/BK R/BK ENGINE
FL2 OR 87
N.C. FUEL SOLENOID
BK 30
FL3 87a
R GY RUN ENABLE

B+ CONTROL IGNITION
POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE TIE POINT DELAY MODULE
ON STARTER R/BK 0.5 SECOND 1
4 BK
PK OFF DELAY

3 2
PK R/BK
NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE
BK BK R/BK BK
R
TO OVER TEMP
SHUTDOWN RELAY
(+) () FORD ENGINE HARNESS R/LGN BK
ENGINE FRAME GN D A POWER 11 R/LGN
BATTERY GROUND GROUND PK BN
OVER FUSE (7.5A)
ALL MAIN HARNESS GROUND POINTS PK PK PK PK TEMP GROUND 10 BK
PK PK
E
MARKED AS BLACK WIRE ARE
BN W
CONNECTED TOGETHER AND TO +8 7 (+) I I ALT VRS+ 23 W/LBU
THE ENGINE GROUND
S L L F
6 S
GY LGNW

Page 6 − 3.1 Rev. E

HR TEMP FUEL OIL VRS 22
5
4 Y PRES CRANK POSITION SENSOR
BU
BN () G G C B SPARK RETARD A 7 Y/LGN
GN 3 PK
2 BK BK BK GLOW
1 SPARK RETARD B 8 Y/LGN
B R HIGHTEMP OVERRIDE CLUSTER GAUGE
(MOMENTARY)
MAP A 16 BR/W
R PK (OFF) MAP SENSOR
GY
L W MAP B 17 G/BK
Y BU
OIL PRESSURE W
ALTERNATOR BN SWITCH SENSOR COM 9 GN/R
ENGINE OVER TEMP TEMPERATURE FUEL (LOW PRESSURE)
(TEMPERATURE OK) BK
SENDER SENDER COOLANT TEMP 18 LGN/R TEMP SENSOR
ENGINE ENGINE BK ENGINE

SPARK 1&4 6 Y/BK

KEY TO WIRE COLORS SPARK COM 4 R/LGN

BK = BLACK GN = GREEN R = RED OR = ORANGE LGN = LIGHT GREEN SPARK 2&3 3 Y/W
BR = BROWN GY = GRAY Y = YELLOW PK = PINK LBU = LIGHT BLUE
BU = BLUE T = T AN W = WHITE VIO = VIOLET IGNITION CONTROL IGNITION COIL
MODULE

Groundsmaster 300 Series

 OIL PRESSURE
SWITCH
YELLOW
BROWN

FUEL LEVEL FUEL GAUGE

FLOAT
BLACK BLUE SEND YELLOW
IGN

FUEL HOURMETER BLACK

PUMP YELLOW
BLACK OIL PRESSURE
LIGHT

Groundsmaster 300 Series

PINK OIL PRESSURE
BUZZER
BROWN

VIOLET ALTERNATOR BLACK

A G
VOLTAGE +
F
Groundmaster 322−D/325−D
(Serial Number less than 20000000)

REGULATOR
N

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TAN
E L
SEAT SWITCH
(SWITCH OPEN WITH
BLACK
NO OPERATOR IN SEAT)

ORANGE
IGNITION SWITCH
CIRCUITRY
BLACK
POSITION CIRCUIT ”MAKE”
RED
1. OFF NONE
BLUE NEUTRAL SWITCH
2. RUN B+I+A X+Y P.T.O. SWITCH (SWITCH CLOSED WITH
85 IGNITION SWITCH (SWITCH CLOSED WITH TRACTION PEDAL
87 Y P.T.O. DISENGAGED)
3. START B+I+S A (REAR VIEW) IN NEUTRAL)
RELAY RED
X WHITE WHITE WHITE
86 30 B

Page 6 − 3.2
S I
BLUE
BLACK
LIGHT GREEN

BLACK RED S FUSE

B RED
(SFE 14A)
TEMP SW GAUGE
STARTER CIRCUIT BREAKER

Rev. E
+ 40 AMP TEMP RELAY
(MANUAL RESET)

BATTERY

GREEN GREEN
RED
AMMETER
RED/WHT RED/WHT

RED RED

FUSE
GLOW PLUG GLOW PLUG (10 AMP AGC)
INDICATOR SWITCH
YELLOW

PINK PINK PINK BLUE BLUE

BLUE BLUE
INJECTION
SOLENOID
PUMP BLACK

CONTROL UNIT
GLOW PLUGS ASSEMBLY

Wiring Schematics
 OIL PRESSURE
SWITCH
YELLOW
BROWN

FUEL LEVEL FUEL GAUGE

FLOAT
BLACK BLUE SEND YELLOW
IGN

Wiring Schematics
FUEL HOURMETER BLACK
PUMP YELLOW
BLACK OIL PRESSURE
LIGHT

PINK OIL PRESSURE

BUZZER
BROWN

VIOLET ALTERNATOR BLACK

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A G
VOLTAGE + SEAT SWITCH
F
Groundmaster 322−D/325−D

REGULATOR (SWITCH OPEN WITH

N
(Serial Number more than 20000000)

TAN NO OPERATOR IN SEAT)

E L

BLACK ORANGE/
WHITE
ORANGE
IGNITION SWITCH SEAT
CIRCUITRY RESISTOR RELAY
BLACK
POSITION CIRCUIT ”MAKE”
RED
1. OFF NONE CAPACITOR
BLUE
2. RUN B+I+A X+Y P.T.O. SWITCH
85 IGNITION SWITCH (SWITCH CLOSED WITH BLACK
87 Y P.T.O. DISENGAGED)
3. START B+I+S A (REAR VIEW)
RELAY RED
X WHITE WHITE WHITE
86 30 B

Page 6 − 3.3
S I
BLUE NEUTRAL SWITCH
BLACK (SWITCH CLOSED WITH
LIGHT GREEN TRACTION PEDAL
IN NEUTRAL)
BLACK RED S FUSE
B RED

Rev. E
(SFE 14A)
TEMP SW GAUGE
STARTER CIRCUIT BREAKER
+ 40 AMP TEMP RELAY
(MANUAL RESET)

BATTERY

GREEN GREEN
RED
AMMETER
RED/WHT RED/WHT

RED RED

FUSE
GLOW PLUG GLOW PLUG (10 AMP AGC)
INDICATOR SWITCH
YELLOW

PINK PINK PINK BLUE BLUE

BLUE BLUE
INJECTION
SOLENOID
PUMP BLACK

CONTROL UNIT
GLOW PLUGS ASSEMBLY

Groundsmaster 300 Series

 OR Y PK PK GN
BU BK

PK

OR
VIO
VIO GY&BK W
BU BU

Groundsmaster 300 Series

GY PK
Groundmaster 328−D

OR GN GN Y Y BK

BU Y
R/BK BK

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R GY
R BK
W
R GY OR PK PK BK

PK Y W W BK W
BK
OR R/BK R/BK BK
OR

OR

R BK BK

GN

Page 6 − 3.4
VIO BN
PK
PK

PK PK PK PK PK
PK BN W

VIO

Rev. E
GY
OR BN Y BU
BN
R GN PK
PK BK BK BK BK
OR
PK

BN Y BU
GY W
PK BN
BK
OR
R
BK

Wiring Schematics
 Special Tools
NOTE: Order special tools from the TO R O S P E C IA L
TO O L S A N D A P P L IC AT IO N S G U ID E (C O M M E R C IA L
P R O D U C T S ). Some tools may be available from a local
supplier.

Continuity Tester (Fig. 1)

Battery powered test lamp which is helpful in testing for
continuity of circuits and electrical components when
the current is off.

Figure 1

Volt - Ohm - Amp Meter (Fig. 2)

The meter can test electrical components and circuits
for current, resistance, or voltage draw.

Figure 2

Special Tools Page 6 - 4 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Skin-Over Grease (Fig. 3)
Special non-conductive grease which forms a light pro-
tective skin to help waterproof electrical switches and
contacts.

Figure 3

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 6 - 5 Special Tools

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 Troubleshooting (Groundsmaster 345)

Study the operating characteristics preceding the elec-

trical failure to help identify the area of difficulty. Try to
isolate the failure to a specific functional system; then
CAUTION check that area, repairing one component at a time.
Remove all jewelry, especially rings and Attempting to repair more than one system at one time
watches, before doing any electrical trou­ will lead to confusion.
bleshooting or testing. Disconnect the bat­
tery cables unless the test requires battery Possible Causes and Corrections in the troubleshooting
voltage. charts should be checked in the order in which they are
listed.

For effective troubleshooting and repairs, you MUST If the machine being repaired has any interlock switches
have a good understanding of the electrical circuits and by-passed, they must be reconnected for proper trou-
components used on this machine. (See Electrical bleshooting and safety.
Schematics and Diagrams section of this chapter.)

Engine Starting Problems

Condition Possible Cause Correction

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Starter solenoid clicks, but Low battery charge Charge battery. Replace battery if
engine will not crank. (If solenoid it will not hold a charge.
clicks, problem is not in interlock
system.) Loose or corroded battery cables. Clean and tighten, or repair as
Loose or corroded ground. necessary.

Faulty wiring at starter. Repair wiring.

Loose starter mounting bolts. Clean mounting surface and

tighten bolts.

Faulty starter. Repair or replace starter.

Faulty starter solenoid. Replace starter solenoid.

Engine seized. Repair engine.

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 Starting Problems (continued)

Condition Possible Cause Correction

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Nothing happens when start Battery is dead. Charge battery. Replace battery if
attempt is made. it will not hold a charge.

Loose or corroded battery cables. Clean and tighten or repair as

Loose or corroded ground. necessary.

Fuse open. Check fuse and replace if fuse is

open. If fuse burns out often, find
and correct cause.

Ammeter faulty. Test ammeter and replace if faulty.

Ammeter wiring loose, corroded or Repair wiring.

damaged.

Ignition switch faulty. Test ignition switch. Replace if

faulty.

Ignition switch wiring loose, Repair wiring.

corroded or damaged.

Traction neutral switch out of Test switch and replace if faulty.

adjustment or faulty. Make sure wires are connected
to “COMMON” and “NORMALLY
OPEN” (N.O.) terminals.

Traction neutral switch wiring Repair wiring.

loose, corroded or damaged.

PTO switch out of adjustment or Test switch and adjust or replace

faulty. if faulty.

PTO switch wiring loose, corroded Repair wiring.

or damaged.

Starter interlock relay wiring loose Repair wiring.

corroded or damaged.

Starter interlock relay faulty. Test relay and replaced if faulty.

Starter solenoid wires loose, Clean and tighten or repair as

corroded or damaged. necessary.

Starter solenoid faulty. Test starter solenoid. Replace if

faulty.

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 Starting Problems (continued)

Condition Possible Cause Correction

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Engine cranks, but does not start. Engine wiring connector or wires Repair wiring.
loose, corroded or damaged.

Temp. gauge switch faulty. Test temp. gauge switch and

replace if faulty.

Temp. relay faulty. Test temp. relay and replace if

faulty.

Temp. relay wiring faulty. Repair wiring.

Engine, engine ignition, or fuel See Ford VSG-411/413 Engine

system problem. Service Manual.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Engine cranks (but should not) Traction neutral switch out of Test switch and replace if faulty.
with traction pedal out of neutral. adjustment or faulty. Make sure wires are connected
to “COMMON” and “NORMALLY
OPEN” (N.O.) terminals.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Engine cranks (but should not) PTO switch out of adjustment or Test switch and adjust or replace
with PTO ON. faulty. if faulty.

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 Operation Problems

Condition Possible Cause Correction

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Engine continues to run (but Seat switch plunger depressed Check for seat support spring
should not) when traction pedal is with no operator on seat. that is broken, missing or stuck in
depressed with no operator on down position.
seat.
Check for binding seat pivot
hinge.

Check for waterlogged seat.

Seat switch faulty or out of Test seat switch. Adjust or

adjustment. replace if faulty.

Traction neutral switch faulty or out Test switch, Adjust or replace if

of adjustment. faulty. Check for correct terminal
connections.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Engine kills when traction pedal Operator sitting too far forward on Instruct operator.
is depressed or PTO is engaged. seat (seat switch not depressed).

Seat hinge, support pin or spring Repair seat pivot and support.
binding, preventing seat switch
from closing.

Seat switch is faulty or out of Test seat switch. Adjust or

adjustment. replace if faulty.

Seat switch wiring loose, corroded Repair wiring.

or damaged.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Battery does not charge. Loose, corroded or broken wire(s). Repair wiring.

Faulty alternator. Test alternator and replace if

faulty.

Dead battery. Charge battery. Replace battery if

it will not hold a charge.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Battery continuously charges at Regulator / rectifier faulty. Replace regulator / rectifier.

high rate.

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 Operation Problems (continued)

Condition Possible Cause Correction

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Engine continues to run (but Seat switch plunger depressed Check for seat support spring
should not) when PTO is ON with with no operator on seat. that is broken, missing or stuck in
no operator on the seat. down position.

Check for binding seat pivot

hinge.

Check for waterlogged seat.

Seat switch faulty or out of Test seat switch. Adjust or

adjustment. replace if faulty.

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 Verify Interlock System Operation
The machine has interlock switches in the electrical 2. Sit on seat. Move PTO lever to ON position. With the
system. These switches are designed to stop the engine traction pedal in neutral position, try to start the engine.
when operator gets off the seat while either the PTO The engine should not crank. If the engine cranks, there
lever is engaged or traction pedal is depressed. How- is a malfunction in the interlock system that should be
ever, operator may get off the seat while engine is corrected before beginning operation.
running. Although engine will continue to run if PTO
lever is disengaged and traction pedal is released, it is 3. Sit on seat. Move PTO lever to OFF and depress the
strongly recommended that the engine be stopped be- traction pedal. Try to start the engine. The engine should
fore dismounting from the seat. not crank. If the engine cranks, there is a malfunction in
the interlock system that should be corrected before
beginning operation.
CAUTION
Do not disconnect the interlock switches. CAUTION
Check operation of switches daily to assure
interlock system is operating correctly. If a Do not operate machine without implement
switch is malfunctioning, replace it before unless the PTO drive shaft is also removed.
operating the machine. To ensure maximum
safety, replace all switches after every two
4. Sit on seat and start the engine. Raise off the seat
years or 1000 hours, whichever comes first.
and move the PTO lever to ON. The engine should stop
within 2 - 3 seconds. If the engine does not stop, there
To check operation of interlock switches: is a malfunction in the interlock system that should be
corrected before beginning operation.
1. Drive the machine slowly to a large, relatively open
area. Lower cutting unit, stop the engine and apply
parking brake.

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 Troubleshooting (Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D)

Study the operating characteristics preceding the elec-

trical failure to help identify the area of difficulty. Try to
isolate the failure to a specific functional system; then
CAUTION check that area, repairing one component at a time.
Remove all jewelry, especially rings and Attempting to repair more than one system at one time
watches, before doing any electrical trou­ will lead to confusion.
bleshooting or testing. Disconnect the bat­
tery cables unless the test requires battery Possible Causes and Corrections in the troubleshooting
voltage. charts should be checked in the order in which they are
listed.

For effective troubleshooting and repairs, you MUST If the machine being repaired has any interlock switches
have a good understanding of the electrical circuits and by-passed, they must be reconnected for proper trou-
components used on this machine. (See Electrical bleshooting and safety.
Schematics and Diagrams section of this chapter.)

Starting Problems

Condition Possible Cause Correction

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Starter solenoid clicks, but starter Low battery charge Charge battery. Replace battery if
will not crank. (If solenoid clicks, it will not hold a charge.
problem is not in interlock
system.) Loose or corroded battery cables. Clean and tighten, or repair as
Loose or corroded ground. necessary.

Faulty wiring at starter. Repair wiring.

Loose starter mounting bolts. Clean mounting surface and

tighten bolts.

Faulty starter. Repair or replace starter.

Faulty starter solenoid. Replace starter solenoid.

Engine seized. Repair engine.

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 Starting Problems (continued)

Condition Possible Cause Correction

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Nothing happens when start Battery is dead. Charge battery. Replace battery if
attempt is made. it will not hold a charge.

Loose or corroded battery cables. Clean and tighten or repair as

Loose or corroded ground. necessary.

Circuit breaker open. Reset circuit breaker. Correct

cause of open circuit breaker.

Ammeter faulty. Test ammeter and replace if faulty.

Ammeter wiring Loose, corroded or Repair wiring.

damaged.

Ignition switch faulty. Test ignition switch. Replace if

faulty.

Ignition switch wiring loose, Repair wiring.

corroded or damaged.

Traction neutral switch out of Test switch and replace if faulty.

adjustment or faulty. Make sure wires are connected
to “COMMON” and “NORMALLY
OPEN” (N.O.) terminals.

Traction neutral switch wiring Repair wiring.

loose, corroded or damaged.

PTO switch out of adjustment or Test switch and adjust or replace

faulty. if faulty.

PTO switch wiring loose, corroded Repair wiring.

or damaged.

Temp. gauge switch faulty. Test temp. gauge switch and

replace if faulty.

Temp. relay faulty. Test temp. relay and replace if

faulty.

Temp. relay wiring loose, corroded Repair wiring.

or damaged.

Starter interlock relay wiring loose Repair wiring.

corroded or damaged.

Starter interlock relay faulty. Test relay and replaced if faulty.

Starter solenoid wires loose, Clean and tighten or repair as

corroded or damaged. necessary.

Starter solenoid faulty. Test starter solenoid. Replace if

faulty.

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 Starting Problems (continued)

Condition Possible Cause Correction

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Engine cranks, but does not start Glow plugs not used properly Use glow plugs to pre-heat
(if engine cranks, cause of before starting. engine cylinders before and
problem is not in interlock during cold starting. Hold glow
system). plug switch in ON position until
indicator glows red, or as
specified in Operator’s Manual
for ambient temperature. DO
NOT exceed 2 minutes of
continuous use.

Glow plug circuit malfunctioning. Test glow switch, glow plug

indicator and glow plugs and
replace if faulty.

Check glow plug circuit wiring

and repair if loose, corroded or
damaged.

Fuel shut-off solenoid is IN (should Check for voltage at solenoid

be OUT). connector while cranking. If no
voltage, but solenoid is IN,
solenoid is faulty. If there is
Engine or fuel system problem. voltage, control unit is faulty.

See Troubleshooting section of

Chapter 4 - Mitsubishi Diesel
Engine.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Engine cranks (but should not) Traction neutral switch out of Test switch and replace if faulty.
with traction pedal out of neutral. adjustment or faulty. Make sure wires are connected
to “COMMON” and “NORMALLY
OPEN” (N.O.) terminals.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Engine cranks (but should not) PTO switch out of adjustment Test PTO switch and adjust or
with PTO ON. or faulty. replace if faulty.

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 Operation Problems

Condition Possible Cause Correction

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Engine continues to run (but Seat switch plunger depressed Check for seat support spring
should not) when traction pedal is with no operator on seat. that is broken, missing or stuck in
depressed with no operator on down position.
seat.
Check for binding seat pivot
hinge.

Check for waterlogged seat.

Seat switch faulty or out of Test seat switch. Adjust or

adjustment. replace if faulty.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Engine kills when traction pedal Operator sitting too far forward on Instruct operator.
is depressed or PTO is engaged. seat (seat switch not depressed).

Seat hinge, support pin or spring Repair seat pivot and support.
binding, preventing seat switch
from closing.

Seat switch is faulty or out of Test seat switch. Adjust or

adjustment. replace if faulty.

Seat switch wiring loose, corroded Repair wiring.

or damaged.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Battery does not charge. Loose, corroded or damaged Repair wiring.

wire(s).

Faulty alternator. Check alternator belt tension.

Test alternator and replace if
faulty.

Dead battery. Charge battery. Replace battery if

it will not hold a charge.

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 Operation Problems (continued)

Condition Possible Cause Correction

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Engine continues to run (but Seat switch plunger depressed Check for seat support spring
should not) when PTO is ON with with no operator on seat. that is broken, missing or stuck in
no operator on the seat. down position.

Check for binding seat pivot

hinge.

Check for waterlogged seat.

Seat switch faulty or out of Test seat switch. Adjust or

adjustment. replace if faulty.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Engine continues to run (but Engine will not restart after manual See listings under Starting
should not) when ignition switch shut-down. Problems.
is turned off.
10 AMP fuse open. Replace fuse. Correct cause of
blown fuse.

Faulty wiring between ammeter Repair wiring.

and control unit.

Ignition switch faulty. Test ignition switch and replace if

faulty.

Faulty wiring between ignition Repair wiring.

switch and control unit.

Fuel shut-off solenoid faulty. Test fuel shut-ff solenoid. Adjust

or replace fuel shut-off solenoid if
faulty.

Fuel shut-off solenoid wiring faulty. Repair wiring.

Control unit faulty. Test control unit and replace if

faulty.

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 Verify Interlock System Operation
The machine has interlock switches in the electrical 2. Sit on seat. Move PTO lever to ON position. With the
system. These switches are designed to stop the engine traction pedal in neutral position, try to start the engine.
when operator gets off the seat while either the PTO The engine should not crank. If the engine cranks, there
lever is engaged or traction pedal is depressed. How- is a malfunction in the interlock system that should be
ever, operator may get off the seat while engine is corrected before beginning operation.
running. Although engine will continue to run if PTO
lever is disengaged and traction pedal is released, it is 3. Sit on seat. Move PTO lever to OFF and depress the
strongly recommended that the engine be stopped be- traction pedal. Try to start the engine. The engine should
fore dismounting from the seat. not crank. If the engine cranks, there is a malfunction in
the interlock system that should be corrected before
beginning operation.
CAUTION
Do not disconnect the interlock switches. CAUTION
Check operation of switches daily to assure
interlock system is operating correctly. If a Do not operate machine without implement
switch is malfunctioning, replace it before unless the PTO drive shaft is also removed.
operating the machine. To ensure maximum
safety, replace all switches after every two
4. Sit on seat and start the engine. Raise off the seat
years or 1000 hours, whichever comes first.
and move the PTO lever to ON. The engine should stop
within 2 - 3 seconds. If the engine does not stop, there
To check operation of interlock switches: is a malfunction in the interlock system that should be
corrected before beginning operation.
1. Drive the machine slowly to a large, relatively open
area. Lower cutting unit, stop the engine and apply
parking brake.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 6 - 17 Troubleshooting (Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D)

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 Testing
This section will define components, and the tests that
can be performed on those components, when those
parts are disconnected from the electrical system.
CAUTION
For accurate resistance and/or continuity checks, elec- When testing electrical components for con­
trically disconnect the component being tested from the tinuity with a volt-ohm meter or continuity
circuit (e.g. unplug the seat switch connector before tester, make sure that power to the circuit has
doing a continuity check). been disconnected.
NOTE: Electrical troubleshooting of any 12 Volt power
connection can also be performed through voltage drop
tests without disconnection of the component.

Ignition Key Switch (Fig. 5)

The circuitry of the ignition switch is shown in the charts. POSITION CONTINUITY AMONG TERMINALS
With the use of a continuity tester, the switch functions
may be tested to determine whether all circuits are being Y
A
completed while the key is moved to each position.
X
1. OFF NONE
B I

Y
A

2. ON X B+I+A X+Y
B I

Y
A

3. START X B+I+S
B I

Figure 5

Testing Page 6 - 18 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Seat Switch (Fig. 6, 7)
The seat switch is a normally open (N.O.) switch that
closes when the operator is on the seat. If the PTO
switch or traction switch is open and the operator raises
off the seat, the engine will stop.

1. Raise the seat to get access to the seat switch wiring

connector.

2. Disconnect the seat switch wiring connector and

install a continuity tester or ohm meter between the two
leads of the seat switch.

3. Lower the seat. The continuity tester should show no

continuity.

NOTE: Make sure the compression spring and pin holds

the seat up off the seat switch when there is no operator
on the seat. Figure 6
(S/N Below 30001)
4. Have the operator sit on the seat, slowly depressing
the seat switch. The continuity tester should show con- 1. Connectors 3. Switch
tinuity as the seat approaches the bottom of its travel. 2. Capscrew & locknut 4. Mounting bracket
(See Replacing Seat Switch in Repairs section of this
chapter for replacement and adjustment procedures.)

Figure 7
(S/N 30001 and UP)

1. Seat switch 4. Spring

2. Seat support bracket 5. Pin
3. Connector

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 6 - 19 Testing

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 Traction (Neutral) Switch (Fig. 8)
The traction switch is normally open and closes when
traction pedal is in neutral. TRACTION
NEUTRAL SWITCH
IMPORTANT: The traction switch has three (3) ter­
minals. Make sure the wires are connected to the
“COMMON” and “N.O.” terminals.

Test switch by disconnecting wires from switch termi-

nals and connecting a continuity tester across COM-
MON and N.O. terminals. With engine off, slowly push
traction pedal in forward and reverse direction while
watching continuity tester. There should be indications
that traction switch is opening and closing. Allow traction
pedal to return to neutral. There should be continuity
across the terminals. (See Replacing Traction Switch in
Repairs section of this chapter for replacement and
adjustment procedures.)
Figure 8
NOTE: Apply “Loctite 271” or equivalent to threads of
switch screws before installing.

PTO Switch (Fig. 9, 10)

The PTO switch is normally open and closes when the
PTO lever is pushed forward to ON position.

Test the switch by disconnecting the wires from the

switch terminals and connecting a continuity tester
across the terminals. With the PTO lever pushed for-
ward (ON), there should be continuity across the termi-
nals. With the PTO lever pulled back (OFF) there should
be no continuity across the terminals. (See Replacing
the PTO Switch in the Repairs section of this chapter for
replacement procedures).

Figure 9
(S/N Below 30001)

1. Connectors 5. Mounting bracket

2. PTO lever 6. Switch arm
3. Capscrew & locknut 7. 1/2 inch (13 mm)
4. Switch

Figure 10
(S/N 30001 and UP)

1. PTO switch

Testing Page 6 - 20 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Starter Interlock Relay (Fig. 11, 12, 13)
To test the relay (Fig. 11, Item 22 or Fig. 12, Item 42),
disconnect the relay wire connector and install a conti-
nuity tester between the relay terminals (terminals 30
and 87). The relay should make and break continuity at
terminals 30 and 87 as 12 V.D.C. is connected and
disconnected to terminal 85 with terminal 86 connected
to ground.

Figure 11
(Groundsmaster 345)

Figure 12
(Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D)

Figure 13

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 6 - 21 Testing

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 Glow Plugs (Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D only)
See Chapter 4 - Diesel Engine.

Battery (Fig. 14, 15)

Use a hydrometer to test the battery. Charge the battery
if necessary (see Battery Service).

Electrolyte specific gravity

Fully charged: 1.250 - 1.280

Discharged: less than 1.240

Figure 14
(Groundsmaster 345)

1. Wing nuts 3. Positive (+) terminal

2. Hold down strap 4. Negative (–) terminal

Figure 15
(Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D)

1. Wing nuts 3. Positive (+) terminal

2. Hold down strap 4. Negative (–) terminal

Testing Page 6 - 22 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Fuel Stop Solenoid (Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D only) (Fig. 16)
Test the fuel stop solenoid by connecting the two sole-
noid lead wires to a 12 volt battery (fused at 10 AMPS).
When the battery is connected, the plunger of the sole-
noid should be activated (for replacement instructions
see Chapter 4 - Diesel Engine).

Figure 16

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 6 - 23 Testing

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 Fuel Stop Control Unit (Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D only) (Fig. 17)
The control unit (Fig. 17, Item 27) is a solid-state timing
device that controls a fuel stop solenoid for shutting the
engine off with the ignition key switch.

To check operation of the control unit and fuel stop

solenoid, listen for an audible “click” when the key is
turned to the OFF position (after having been in the RUN
position), and then once again approximately 7 to 15
seconds after the key switch has been turned off. The
“clicking” should is made by the solenoid (on back of
injection pump). These sounds signify that the system
is functioning properly electrically.

Detailed testing of the control unit, alone, is provided in

the chart that follows. These tests must be performed
with the control unit installed in the machine and con-
nected to the electrical system.
Figure 17
IMPORTANT: Testing the control unit by any other
method, especially when using a battery powered
meter or tester, may cause damage to the solid state
circuitry in the control unit.

Testing Page 6 - 24 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 6 - 25 Testing

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 Indicator Lights, Buzzers and Gauges
Oil Pressure Light and Buzzer Test the indicator by disconnecting the wires and check-
ing for continuity across the terminals.
Oil pressure lamp and buzzer should come on when the
ignition key switch is in the RUN position with the engine Hourmeter
not running or if the oil pressure switch closes during
operation - oil pressure below 7 psi (0.5 kg/cm2). Test the hourmeter by connecting a 12 volt battery so
the positive (+) battery terminal is connected to the
Test the light and buzzer by disconnecting the wire from positive terminal on the hourmeter. Connect the nega-
oil pressure switch and grounding it against the engine. tive (–) battery terminal to the negative (–) terminal on
The light and buzzer should come on when the wire is the alternator. The hourmeter should operate as
grounded with the ignition switch in the ON position. 12 V.D.C. is applied between the terminals.

Ammeter Engine Temperature Gauge and Fuel Level Gauge

Check the ammeter by comparing it to another amme- To test a gauge, use a commercial gauge tester. If a
ter. Replace it if it registers incorrectly. commercial gauge tester is not available, substitute a
new gauge or test the sending unit.
Glow Indicator (Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D only)

The glow indicator should glow red after holding the

glow plug switch on for approximately 20 seconds.

Testing Page 6 - 26 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Temperature Relay (Fig. 18)
The temperature relay (Fig. 18, Item 18) works with the
temperature gauge to disconnect battery voltage to the
ignition system (gas engine) or fuel shut stop control unit
(diesel engine) if the engine temperature gets too hot.

The B & C terminals of the temperature relay have a

normally closed connection between them. If there is no
continuity between terminals B & C check the SFE-14
fuse inside the relay box.

A coil resistance may be read on the ohmmeter between

terminals B & S. No resistance, indicates an open coil.
If the coil is open, replace the temperature relay device.

Figure 18

Temperature Gauge Sending Unit (Fig. 19)

The temperature gauge sending unit is located on the
top of the cylinder head, near the thermostat .

1. Lower the coolant level in the engine and remove the

temperature gauge sending unit located near engine
thermostat.

2. Put the sending unit in a container of oil with a

thermometer and heat the oil.

3. With an Ohm meter connected as shown, the resis-

tance readings should changed as the temperature
increases (resistance should get lower as temperature
gets higher).
Figure 19

CAUTION
Handle hot oil with special care to prevent
personal injury or fire.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 6 - 27 Testing

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 Engine Oil Pressure Switch (Fig. 20)
The oil pressure switch is located on the cylinder block
and has a brown wire attached. The switch is normally
closed (NC) and opens with pressure.

Turn ignition key switch ON. Oil pressure lamp and

buzzer should be on.

If lamp and buzzer are not on:

1. Disconnect wire from oil pressure switch and touch

wire to a good ground, such as the engine block.

2. If lamp and buzzer come on, replace switch.

3. If lamp and buzzer do not come on check wiring Figure 20

between switch, lamp and buzzer for continuity.

If lamp and buzzer are on with engine running:

1. Shut off engine immediately.

2. Check switch by disconnecting wire with ignition

switch in ON position. Light should go out.

3. If light is still on, check for short circuit in wiring.

4. Install test gauge in engine oil pressure switch port.

Start engine and check oil pressure. If engine oil pres-
sure is good, replace switch. If engine pressure is low,
DO NOT operate the engine.

Testing Page 6 - 28 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Fuel Gauge Sending Unit (Fig. 21)
1. Remove the two wires from top of sending unity.

2. Loosen and remove screws securing sending unit to

fuel tank.

DANGER
Because fuel is flammable, caution must be
used when the sending unit is removed. Va­
pors may build up and be ignited by a spark
or flame source many feet away. Prevent
sparks and DO NOT smoke while working on
the fuel system, to avoid the possibility of an
explosion and personal injury.

3. Carefully remove sending unit from fuel tank.

Figure 21
4. Connect an ohmmeter (set on the R x 1 scale) across
the two terminals of the sending unit. As the float is
moved up and down, the resistance (in Ohms) will be
registered on the meter. The resistance should vary
between 90 and 0 Ohms.

5. If not change in the resistance is measured as the

float is moved up and down, the sending unit is faulty
and must be replaced.

6. Reverse steps 1 - 4 to install the sending unit.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 6 - 29 Testing

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 Repairs
IMPORTANT: Before welding on the machine, dis­
connect both battery cables from the battery and
disconnect the terminal connector from the alterna­
tor to prevent damage to the electrical system.

Battery Service (Fig. 22)

IMPORTANT: To prevent damage to electrical com­ Reelmaster 345
Battery Specifications
ponents, do not operate the engine with the battery
cables disconnected. BCI Group 24 Battery
370 Amp Cranking Performance at 0o F (17 o C)
Keep the terminals and entire battery case clean. To 45 min. Reserve Capacity at 80o F (27 o C)
clean the battery, wash the entire case with a solution
Reelmaster 322-D/325-D
of baking soda and water. Rinse with clear water. Do not Battery Specifications
get the soda solution into the battery because damage
to the battery will result. Coat the battery posts and cable BCI Group 24 Battery
550 Amp Cranking Performance at 0o F (–17 o C)
connectors with skin-over grease, or petroleum jelly to 140 min. Reserve Capacity at 80o F (27 o C)
prevent corrosion.

Check for loose battery hold-downs. A loose battery may

crack or cause the container to wear and leak acid.

Check the electrolyte solution to make sure the level is

above the plates. If the level is low (but above the plates
inside the battery), add water so the level is to the
bottom of the cap tubes. If the level is below the plates,
add water only until the plates are covered and then
charge the battery. After charging, fill the battery to the
proper level.

Electrolyte Specific Gravity

Fully charged: 1.250 - 1.280

Discharged: less than 1.240
Figure 22

CAUTION
Do not charge a frozen battery because it can
explode and cause injury. Let the battery
warm to 60o F (16o C) before connecting to a
charger.

Charge the battery in a well-ventilated place

so that gases produced while charging can
dissipate. Since the gases are explosive, keep
open flame and electrical spark away from the
battery; do not smoke. Nausea may result if
the gases are inhaled. Unplug the charger
from the electrical outlet before connecting or
disconnecting the charger leads from the bat­
tery posts.

Repairs Page 6 - 30 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Fuses and Circuit Breaker (Fig. Figure 23, 24)
Groundsmaster 345

An engine temperature reset relay fuse – SFE 14 AMP

– is located behind the reset relay. An inline fuse – SFE
14 AMP – protects the entire electrical system. Get
access to the fuses by removing the instrument panel
cover.

Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D

An engine temperature reset relay fuse – SFE 14 AMP

– is located behind reset relay. An inline fuse – AGC 10
AMP – protects the engine control module. Access to
the fuses can be gained by removing the instrument
panel cover.

A 40 AMP circuit breaker protects the entire electrical

system. A reset button is located on the lower side of the Figure 23
instrument panel which can be reached after removal of (Groundsmaster 322-D shown)
the battery cover. The button should be depressed if a
total loss of all electrical functions should occur. 1. SFE 14 AMP fuse – engine temp. reset relay
2. In-line fuse
3. Starter interlock relay

Figure 24

1. Circuit breaker reset button

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 6 - 31 Repairs

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 Traction (Neutral) Switch Replacement (Fig. 25)
1. Remove the two wires that are connected to the
traction switch. TRACTION
NEUTRAL SWITCH
2. Loosen two (2) screws and remove the switch.

3. Install new switch. DO NOT over-tighten screws as

the switch case could break.

NOTE: Apply “Loctite 271” or equivalent to threads of

switch screws before installing.

4. Reconnect the two wires to the new switch. Make sure

that one wire is connected to the “COMMON” terminal,
and one wire is connected to the “NORMALLY OPEN”
(N.O.) terminal.

IMPORTANT: The traction switch has three (3) ter­

minals. If the two (2) wires are not connected to the Figure 25
“COMMON” and “NORMALLY OPEN” (N.O.) termi­
nals, the engine will be unable to start and the safety
interlock circuit will not function properly.

CAUTION
If the wires are not correctly installed to the
switch, the engine could start with the trac­
tion pedal in forward or reverse.

5. Coat the switch terminals and wires with skin-over

grease.

6. Check traction control neutral adjustment. (See Trac-

tion Control Neutral Adjustment in the Adjustments sec-
tion of Chapter 4 - HYDRAULIC SYSTEM.

7. Actuate the pump lever to insure all parts are operat-

ing freely and seated properly.

8. Loosen jam nut. Rotate switch adjusting screw until

there is a gap between head of screw and switch button.

9. Rotate adjusting screw until it contacts the switch

button. Continue to rotate the screw until the circuit is
completed (switch “clicks”). After the switch clicks, ro-
tate the adjusting screw an additional 1/2 turn. Tighten
jam nut.

Repairs Page 6 - 32 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 PTO Switch Replacement (Fig. 26, 27)
Lever Type Switch (S/N Below 30001) (Fig. 26)

1. Disengage latches and remove instrument cover.

2. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery and

separate wire harness connectors.

3. Move PTO lever to the ON position and remove

capscrew and locknut holding switch against mounting
bracket.

4. Install new switch with capscrew and locknut. Move

PTO lever to OFF position. When lever is in its normal,
released position, the switch arm must bend about 1/2
inch (13 mm). If switch arm does not bend 1/2 inch
(13 mm), bend the mounting bracket to get the correct
adjustment.
Figure 26
5. Connect a continuity tester or ohm meter to switch (S/N Below 30001)
connector. With PTO lever in forward (ON) position, the
switch circuit should have no continuity. If there is con- 1. Connectors 5. Mounting bracket
tinuity, check switch installation. If there is no continuity, 2. PTO lever 6. Switch arm
go to next step. 3. Capscrew & locknut 7. 1/2 inch (13 mm)
4. Switch
6. Move PTO lever to OFF position. When PTO lever is
in its normal, released position, the PTO switch should
have continuity. If there is no continuity, check switch
installation. If there is continuity, go to next step.

7. Liberally coat inside of wiring connectors with skin-

over grease. Push wire harness connectors together.
Connect negative battery cable to battery.

8. Install instrument cover and lock the latches.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 6 - 33 Repairs

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 Plunger Type Switch (S/N 30001 and UP) (Fig. 27)

1. Disengage latches and remove instrument cover.

2. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.

3. Move PTO lever forward to ON position.

4. Disconnect PTO switch electrical connector.

5. Remove boot from button end of switch. Keep boot

for installation later. Figure 27
(S/N 30001 and UP)
6. Remove front jam nut securing switch to mounting
bracket and remove switch. 1. PTO switch

7. Install new switch to mounting bracket. Adjust switch

so it is depressed 1/2" (13 mm) when PTO lever is
moved to OFF position. Tighten jam nuts to 75 in-lb.
Install rubber boot on switch.

IMPORTANT: Threads on PTO switch will be dam­

aged if jam nuts are over-tightened.

8. Connect a continuity tester or ohm meter to switch

connector. With PTO lever in forward (ON) position, the
switch circuit should have no continuity. If there is con-
tinuity, check switch installation. If there is no continuity,
go to next step.

9. Move PTO lever to OFF position. When PTO lever is

in its normal, released position, the PTO switch should
have continuity. If there is no continuity, check switch
installation. If there is continuity, go to next step.

10. Push switch connectors together.

11. Install instrument cover and lock the latches.

Repairs Page 6 - 34 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Seat Switch Replacement (Fig. 28, 29)
Lever Type Switch (S/N Below 30001) (Fig. 28)

1. Remove instrument cover and disconnect nega-

tive (–) battery cable from battery.

2. Pivot seat forward and secure with support rod to

prevent it from falling.

3. (4WD units only) Remove (4) flange screws and (2)

locknuts securing sealing plate to frame above fuel tank.
Remove sealing plate.

4. Disconnect electrical connectors for seat switch. Re-

move capscrew and locknut securing switch to mount-
ing bracket.

5. To install new seat switch, set it on mounting bracket

and make sure locating pin on bottom of switch fits hole Figure 28
in bracket. Secure switch in place with capscrew and (S/N Below 30001)
locknut.
1. Connectors 3. Switch
6. Carefully lower seat, but do not sit on, or apply 2. Capscrew & locknut 4. Mounting bracket
pressure to the seat. There should be a slight gap
between the switch and seat plate.

7. Connect a continuity tester or ohm meter to switch

connector. With seat in down position and no one on
seat, the switch circuit should have no continuity. If there
is continuity, check switch installation. If there is no
continuity, go to next step.

8. Set on the seat. The seat switch should have conti-

nuity. If there is no continuity, check switch installation.
If there is continuity, go to next step.

9. Liberally coat inside of wiring connectors with skin-

over grease and push wire harness connectors to-
gether.

10. (4WD units only) Install sealing plate to frame above

fuel tank.

11. Disengage support rod lower the seat. Install lynch

pin through rod to hold seat in place. Connect negative
battery cable to battery.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 6 - 35 Repairs

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 Plunger Type Switch (S/N 30001 and UP) (Fig. 29)

1. Remove instrument cover and disconnect nega-

tive (–) battery cable from battery.

2. Pivot seat forward and secure with support rod to

prevent it from falling.

3. (4WD units only) Remove (4) flange screws and (2)

locknuts securing sealing plate to frame above fuel tank.
Remove sealing plate.

4. Remove boot from button end of seat switch. Keep

boot for installation later. Disconnect seat switch wiring
connector.

5. Remove top jam nut securing seat switch to mounting

bracket and remove switch. Figure 29
(S/N 30001 and UP)
6. Install new seat switch to support bracket. Adjust
switch height so it is 3/32" (2.4 mm) below top of spring 1. Seat switch 4. Spring
pin. Tighten jam nuts to 75 in-lb. Install rubber boot. 2. Seat support bracket 5. Pin
3. Connector
IMPORTANT: Threads on seat switch will be dam­
aged if jam nuts are over-tightened.

7. Carefully lower seat, but do not sit on, or apply

pressure to the seat. There should be a slight gap
between the switch and seat plate.

8. Connect a continuity tester or ohm meter to switch

connector. With seat in down position and no one on
seat, the switch circuit should have no continuity. If there
is continuity, check switch installation. If there is no
continuity, go to next step.

9. Set on the seat. The seat switch should have conti-

nuity. If there is no continuity, check switch installation.
If there is continuity, go to next step.

10. Push switch connectors together.

11. (4WD units only) Install sealing plate to frame above

fuel tank.

12. Connect battery cable and install instrument cover.

Repairs Page 6 - 36 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Chapter 6A

For GM 345 (Serial Number above 21000000) and GM 328–D

Electrical System
Table of Contents
ELECTRICAL SCHEMATICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Diode Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Control Ignition Delay Module

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM QUICK CHECKS . . . . . . . . 3

(Groundsmaster 345) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Battery Test (Open Circuit Test) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Glow Relay (Groundsmaster 328–D) . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Charging System Test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Glow Controller (Groundsmaster 328–D) . . . . . . . 9

Glow Plug System Test (Groundsmaster 328–D) . 3

Run Solenoid (Groundsmaster 328–D) (Solenoid

COMPONENT IDENTIFICATION AND TESTING . . 4

with 3 Wire Connector) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Seat Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Run Solenoid (Groundsmaster 328–D) (Solenoid
High Temperature Override Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
with 2 Wire Connector) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Start Enable, Run Enable, Over Temperature

SERVICE AND REPAIRS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

and Seat Delay (GM 328–D) Relays . . . . . . . . . . 5

Battery Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Fuel Sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Fusible Link Harness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Note: Only new information for Groundsmaster 345

machines with serial numbers above 21000000 and

Groundsmaster 328–D machines is provided in this

Chapter. See Chapter 6 – Electrical System for addition

-
al component identification and testing information.

Electrical Schematics

The electrical schematics for all Groundsmaster 300

models are provided in Chapter 6 – Electrical System.

Groundsmaster 300 Series Page 6A – 1 Electrical System (Rev. G)

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 Special Tools

Digital Multimeter

The Digital Multimeter can test electrical components

and circuits for current, resistance, or voltage drop. Ob-
tain Digital Multimeter from a local supplier.

Note: Toro recommends the use of a DIGITAL multi-

meter when testing electrical circuits. The high imped-
ance (internal resistance) of a digital meter will ensure
that excess current is not allowed through the meter. Ex-
cess current can cause damage to a circuit that is not de-
signed to carry it.

Figure 1

Skin–Over Grease
Special non–conductive grease which forms a light pro-
tective skin to help waterproof electrical switches and
contacts.

Toro P/N 505–47 8 oz. (.24 L) can

Figure 2

Inductive Ammeter (AC/DC Current Transducer – Hall Effect)

Use this tool, connected to a Digital multimeter for doing
current draw tests. This tool can be useful when check-
ing glow plug and starter circuits. Obtain the Inductive
Ammeter from a local supplier.

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 Electrical System Quick Checks

Battery Test (Open Circuit Test)

Use a multimeter to measure the voltage between the Voltage Measured Battery Charge Level
battery terminals.
12.68 v (or higher) Fully charged (100%)
Set the multimeter to the DC volts setting. The battery 12.45 v 75% charged
should be at a temperature of 60o to 100o F (16o to 38o
12.24 v 50% charged
C). The ignition key should be in the OFF position and
all accessories turned off. Connect the positive (+) me- 12.06 v 25% charged
ter lead to the positive battery post and the negative (–) 11.89 v 0% charged
meter lead to the negative battery post. Use the table to
the right to determine charge level of the battery.

Note: This test provides a relative condition of the bat-

tery. Load testing of the battery will provide additional
and more accurate information.

Charging System Test

This is a simple test used to determine if the charging After allowing the engine to run for at least three (3) min-
system is functioning. It will tell you if the charging sys- utes, battery voltage should be at least 0.5 volts higher
tem has an output, but not its capacity. than initial battery voltage (see example in table to the
right).
Use a multimeter set to the DC volts position. Connect
the positive (+) meter lead to the positive battery post Note: While engine is running, if battery voltage ex-
and the negative (–) meter lead to the negative battery ceeds 16 volts, the regulator in the charging system
post. Leave the multimeter test leads connected to the should be inspected.
battery and record the battery voltage.
After allowing the engine to run for at least three (3) min-
Note: Upon starting the engine, the battery voltage utes, if battery voltage does not increase at least 0.5
will drop and then should increase once the engine is volts, additional testing of the battery and/or charging
running. system should be performed.

Note: Depending upon the condition of the battery Acceptable voltage increase:
charge and battery temperature, the charging system
voltage will increase at different rates as the battery Initial Battery Voltage = 12.25 v
charges. Battery Voltage after 3 Minute Charge = 12.80 v
Start the engine and run at high idle speed. Allow the Difference = +0.55 v
battery to charge for at least three (3) minutes. Record
the battery voltage.

Glow Plug System Test (Groundsmaster 328–D)

This is a fast, simple test that can help to determine the ter pickup around the main glow plug power supply wire.
integrity and operation of the Groundsmaster 328–D Adjust the meter to read zero (if applicable). Cycle the
glow plug system. The test should be run anytime hard glow plug system at least two times (per instructions in
starting (cold engine) is encountered on a diesel engine Traction Unit Operator’s Manual) and record the final re-
equipped with a glow plug system. sults.

Use a digital multimeter and/or inductive Ammeter (AC/ The Groundsmaster 328–D glow plug system should
DC Current Transducer) set to the correct scale. With have a reading of approximately 27 Amps. If low current
the ignition switch in the OFF position, place the amme- reading is observed, one (or more) glow plugs is faulty.

Groundsmaster 300 Series Page 6A – 3 Electrical System (Rev. G)

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 Component Testing
Note: See Chapter 6 – Electrical System for additional
component identification and testing information. Only
new information for Groundsmaster 345 machines with
serial numbers above 21000000 and Groundsmaster
328–D machines is provided in this Chapter.

Seat Switch
The seat switch is normally open and closes when the
operator is on the seat. The switch is located directly un-
der the seat (Fig. 3).
1
1. Make sure the engine and ignition switch are Off. Re-
move key from ignition switch.
2. Tilt operator seat up. Disconnect machine wire har-
ness connector from seat switch.
3. Check the continuity of the switch by connecting a
multimeter (ohms setting) across the switch connector
terminals. 4
4. With no pressure on the seat cushion, there should be
no continuity between the switch terminals. 3

5. Press directly onto the seat switch through the seat

cushion. There should be continuity as the seat cushion
2
approaches the bottom of its travel.
6. Connect machine wire harness connector to seat Figure 3
switch. 1. Seat 4. Seat switch
2. Seat plate 5. Switch harness
If switch removal is necessary, remove seat with sliders 3. Screw (2 used)
from seat plate. Remove switch from bottom of seat.

High Temperature Override Switch

The high temperature override switch is located on the
control console.

The switch terminals are marked as shown in Figure 4.

The circuitry of the switch is shown in the chart below.
With the use of a multimeter (ohms setting), the switch
functions may be tested to determine whether continuity
exists between the various terminals for each position.
Verify continuity between switch terminals. BACK OF SWITCH

Figure 4
SWITCH NORMAL OTHER
POSITION CIRCUITS CIRCUITS
ON 2+3 5+6
OFF 1+2 4+5

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 Start Enable, Run Enable, Over Temperature and Seat Delay (GM 328–D) Relays

Three (3) relays (start enable, run enable and over tem-
perature) are used on the Groundsmaster 328–D and
Groundsmaster 345 to control engine operation. The
Groundsmaster 328–D uses an additional relay (seat 86 87A 87
87
delay) to allow the engine to continue to run when the
87A
operator lifts from the seat momentarily. The relays are 86 85
attached to a bracket under the instrument panel next to
the battery. These relays are identical. Refer to electrical
schematics in Chapter 6 – Electrical System for relay 30
identification. 85 30

Testing
Figure 5
Note: Prior to taking small resistance readings with a
digital multimeter, short the meter test leads together.
The meter will display a small resistance value (usually
0.5 ohms or less). This resistance is due to the internal
resistance of the meter and test leads. Subtract this val-
ue from the measured value of the component you are
testing.

1. Locate relay to be tested. Disconnect the machine

wire harness connector from the relay.

2. Using a multimeter (ohms setting), measure coil re-

sistance between terminals 85 and 86 (Fig. 5). Resist-
ance should be between 70 and 90 ohms.

3. Connect multimeter (ohms setting) leads to relay ter-

minals 30 and 87. Ground terminal 86 and apply +12
VDC to terminal 85. The relay should make and break
continuity between terminals 30 and 87 as +12 VDC is
applied and removed from terminal 85.

4. Disconnect voltage from terminal 85 and multimeter

lead from terminal 87.

5. Connect multimeter (ohms setting) leads to relay ter-

minals 30 and 87A. Apply +12 VDC to terminal 85. The
relay should make and break continuity between termi-
nals 30 and 87A as +12 VDC is applied and removed
from terminal 85.

6. Disconnect voltage and multimeter leads from the

relay terminals. Reconnect relay to machine wire har-
ness.

Groundsmaster 300 Series Page 6A – 5 Electrical System (Rev. G)

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 Fuel Sender

The fuel sender is located on top of the fuel tank.

Testing

1. Remove blue wire and black ground wire from the

sender.

CAUTION FULL POSITION

If testing circuit wiring and fuel gauge, make sure

wire connections are secure before turning igni-
tion switch ON to prevent an explosion or fire
from sparks.
EMPTY POSITION
2. To test the circuit wiring and fuel gauge, connect blue
and black wires and turn ignition switch to ON. Fuel
gauge needle should point to the right edge of the green
area (full). Turn ignition switch OFF and continue testing
fuel sender if circuit wiring and gauge are acceptable.

3. Remove five (5) screws that secure the sender to the Figure 6
fuel tank.

4. Remove sender and gasket from the fuel tank. Clean

any fuel from the sender.

Note: Before taking small resistance readings with a

digital multimeter, short meter test leads together. The
meter will display a small resistance value. This internal
resistance of the meter and test leads should be sub-
tracted from the measured value of the component.

CAUTION
Make sure sending unit is completely dry (no fuel
on it) before testing. Perform test away from the
tank to prevent an explosion or fire from sparks.

5. Check resistance of the sender with a multimeter

(Fig. 6).

A. Resistance with the float in the full position should

be 27.5 to 39.5 ohms.

B. Resistance with the float in the empty position

should be 240 to 260 ohms.

6. Replace sender as necessary. Reinstall sender into

fuel tank.

7. Reconnect wires to fuel sender. Apply skin–over

grease (Toro Part No. 505–47) to sender terminals.

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 Fusible Link Harness

The Groundsmaster 328–D and Groundsmaster 345

use three (3) fusible links for circuit protection. These FUSIBLE LINK
fusible links are located in a harness that connects the FUSIBLE LINK
FUSIBLE LINK
starter B+ terminal to the main wire harness. If any of
these links should fail, current to the protected circuit will
cease. Refer to wire harness drawings in Chapter 6 –
Electrical System for additional fusible link information.

Use a multimeter to make sure that continuity exists be-

tween each terminal pin in connector P1 and connector
Figure 7

J1 at the starter (Fig. 7). If any of the fusible links are

open, replace the complete harness.

Diode Assembly

Two (2) diode assemblies (Fig. 8) are used in the ma-

chine wire harness. Diode D1 is used for circuit protec-
tion from inductive voltage spikes that occur when the 2
starter motor is shut off. Diode D2 provides logic for the
interlock switches to allow the engine to run when the
traction pedal is in neutral and the PTO switch is off. The
diodes plug directly into the wiring harness.

Testing 3
1
The diodes can be individually tested using a digital
multimeter (diode test or ohms setting) and the table be-
Figure 8
low. 1. Diode 3. Female terminal
2. Male terminal

Multimeter Multimeter
Red Lead (+) Black Lead (–) Continuity
on Terminal on Terminal

Female Male YES

Male Female NO

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 Control Ignition Delay Module (Groundsmaster 345)

The control ignition delay module on the Groundsmas- 5. Connect a second jumper lead to module terminal
ter 345 is one of the components in the interlock system. P1–3 and touch terminal P1–4. The multimeter display
Whenever the run enable relay is energized, the control should show 12 VDC as long as the jumper is connected
ignition delay module is energized and allows current to to P1–4.
the engine ignition control module. If the run enable
relay is de–energized (e.g. operator gets off the seat), 6. Disconnect the jumper wire from module wire con-
the control ignition delay module will de–energize after nector J1 while watching the multimeter display. The
.5 second and will cause the engine to stop running as meter should show 0 VDC after .5 seconds.
power to the engine ignition control module is shut off.
The module is attached to a bracket under the instru-
ment panel next to the battery.
P1–3 P1–4
Testing
P1–1
P1–2
1. Locate control ignition delay module. Unplug wire
harness connectors from module.

2. Connect multimeter (DC volts setting) leads to mod-

ule terminals P1–2 (meter + lead) and P1–1 (meter –
lead) (Fig. 9).

3. Connect a jumper lead from module terminal P1–4 J1

to module wire connector J1.

4. Using a 12 VDC power source, apply +12 VDC to ter-

minal P1–3 and ground terminal P1–1. Figure 9

Glow Relay (Groundsmaster 328–D)

The Groundsmaster 328–D (diesel engine) uses a relay
to energize the engine glow plugs. This glow relay is at-
tached to the frame below the radiator assembly. 87
86 87
Testing

1. Verify coil resistance between terminals 86 and 85

with a multimeter (ohms setting) (Fig. 10). Resistance 85 30 30
85 86
should be from 41 to 51 ohms.

2. Connect multimeter (ohms setting) leads to relay ter-

minals 30 and 87. Ground terminal 86 and apply +12 Figure 10
VDC to terminal 85. The relay should make and break
continuity between terminals 30 and 87 as +12 VDC is
applied and removed from terminal 85.

3. Disconnect voltage and leads from the terminals.

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 Glow Controller (Groundsmaster 328–D)

The glow controller used on the Groundsmaster 328–D 5. If any of the conditions in Step 3 are not met or power
(diesel engine) is located under the instrument panel. to terminal 1 exists and any of the other conditions in
Step 4 are not met:
Note: Refer to Groundsmaster 328–D electrical sche-
matic in Chapter 6 – Electrical System when trouble- A. Verify continuity of the circuitry from the battery to
shooting the glow controller circuit. the glow relay and glow plugs (see Groundsmaster
328–D electrical schematic in Chapter 6 – Electrical
Controller Operation System).

1. When the ignition switch is placed in the RUN posi- B. Verify continuity of the circuitry from the battery to
tion, the controller energizes the glow plugs and lights ignition switch, glow controller, glow lamp, glow relay
up the glow lamp for approximately 6 seconds. and ground (see Groundsmaster 328–D electrical
schematic in Chapter 6 – Electrical System).
2. When the ignition switch is held in the START posi-
tion, the glow plugs will energize while the switch is held C. Replace parts as necessary.
in START and the glow lamp will not light.
6. Connect electrical connector to the fuel stop sole-
3. When the ignition switch is released from START to noid.
RUN, the glow plugs will de–energize and the glow lamp
will remain off.
2
Controller Checks

1. Make sure there is power from the battery. 3 6

2. Disconnect electrical connector to the fuel stop sole- 2 5
noid to prevent the engine from starting.
1 4
3. Place ignition switch in the RUN position. Verify the
following while in the RUN position:

A. Glow indicator lamp is on. 1

B. Glow relay is energized.
3
C. Glow plugs are energized.

D. Glow indicator lamp goes out and glow plugs de– Figure 11
energize after approximately 6 seconds. 1. Glow controller end view 3. Side view
2. Top view
4. Place ignition switch in the START position. Verify
the following while in the START position:

A. Glow indicator lamp is out.

B. Glow relay is energized.

C. Glow plugs are energized.

D. Power exists at terminal 1 of the glow controller.

Note: If there is no power to terminal 1 of the glow con-

troller, verify continuity of the circuitry from the ignition
switch to the glow controller and perform Step 4 again
(see Groundsmaster 328–D electrical schematic in
Chapter 6 – Electrical System).

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 Run Solenoid (Groundsmaster 328–D) (Solenoid With 3 Wire Connector)

The run (ETR) solenoid must be energized for the en- 4. Touch a negative (-) test lead from the 12 VDC
gine to run. The solenoid is mounted on the engine block source to the pin of the black wire. The solenoid should
near the injection pump. engage making an audible ”click”.

In Place Testing 5. Remove positive (+) voltage from the pin of the white
wire. The solenoid should stay engaged.
Note: Prior to taking small resistance readings with a
digital multimeter, short the test leads together. The me- 6. Remove positive (+) voltage from the pin of the red/
ter will display a small resistance value (usually 0.5 black wire. The solenoid should release.
ohms or less). This resistance is due to the internal re-
sistance of the meter and test leads. Subtract this value 7. Reconnect the wires to the solenoid.
from from the measured value of the component you are
testing. 6
3
1. Disconnect the wire harness connector from the so-
lenoid. 5 4
2. Using a digital multimeter, touch one lead to the pin 2
of the black wire and the other lead to the pin of the 1
white wire. The resistance of the pull coil should be
about 0.33 ohms.

3. Using a digital multimeter, touch one lead to the pin

of the black wire and the other lead to the pin of the red/
black wire. The resistance of the hold coil should be Figure 12
about 12.2 ohms. 1. Cap screw 4. Common (black wire)
2. Fuel stop solenoid 5. Hold coil (red/black wire)
3. Gasket 6. Pull coil (white wire)
4. Connect solenoid to the wiring harness.

Live testing

1. Disconnect the wire harness connector from the so-

lenoid.

Note: The solenoid may be removed from the engine

or tested in place.

2. If the solenoid is removed from the engine, make

sure that the solenoid plunger moves freely and is free
of dirt, debris and corrosion.

3. Connect a positive (+) test lead from a 12 VDC

source to the pins of the red/black and white wires.

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 Run Solenoid (Groundsmaster 328–D) (Solenoid With 2 Wire Connector)
The run (ETR) solenoid must be energized for the en- 4. Touch a negative (–) test lead from the 12 VDC
gine to run. The solenoid is mounted on the engine block source to the fuel stop solenoid frame (ground) (Fig. 13).
near the injection pump. The solenoid should engage, making an audible “click,”
and the plunger should retract.
In Place Testing
5. Remove positive (+) voltage from the pull coil termi-
Note: Prior to taking small resistance readings with a nal. The solenoid should stay engaged.
digital multimeter, short the test leads together. The me-
ter will display a small resistance value (usually 0.5 6. Remove positive (+) voltage from the hold coil termi-
ohms or less). This resistance is due to the internal re- nal. The solenoid should release.
sistance of the meter and test leads. Subtract this value
from from the measured value of the component you are 7. Connect the wire harness connector to the run sole-
testing. noid.

1. Disconnect machine wire harness connector from

solenoid. 2

2. Using a digital multimeter, touch one test lead to the 1

pull coil terminal and the other test lead to the fuel stop
solenoid frame (ground) (Fig. 13). The resistance of the
pull coil should be less than 1 ohm (but not zero).

3. Using a digital multimeter, touch one test lead to the 3

hold coil terminal and the other test lead to the fuel stop
solenoid frame (ground) (Fig. 13). The resistance of the
hold coil should be approximately 15 ohms.
Figure 13
4. Connect solenoid to the machine wire harness. 1. Fuel stop solenoid 3. Hold coil terminal
2. Pull coil terminal
Live testing

1. Disconnect wire harness connector from run sole-

noid.

Note: The solenoid may be removed from the engine

or tested in place.

2. If the solenoid is removed from the engine, make

sure that the solenoid plunger moves freely and is free
of dirt, debris and corrosion.

Note: When testing run solenoid, use test leads with

at least 14 gauge wire.

3. Connect a positive (+) test lead from a 12 VDC

source to the pull coil and hold coil terminals.

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 Service and Repairs

Battery Service
The battery is the heart of the electrical system. With Inspection, Maintenance and Testing
regular and proper service, battery life can be extended.
Additionally, battery and electrical component failure 1. Perform the following inspection and maintenance
can be prevented. tasks:

Note: Battery information for all Groundsmaster A. Check for cracks caused by overly tight or loose
322/325 machines and Groundsmaster 345 machines hold–down clamp. Replace battery if cracked and
with serial number below 21000000 is included in Chap- leaking.
ter 6.
B. Check battery terminal posts for corrosion. Use
Electrolyte Specific Gravity a terminal brush to clean corrosion from the battery
terminal posts.
Fully charged: 1.265 corrected to 80o F (26.7o C)

Discharged: less than 1.240

IMPORTANT: Before cleaning the battery, tape or

Battery Specifications Groundsmaster 328–D block the vent holes to the filler caps and make sure
the caps are on tightly.
BCI Group 24

660 Amp Cranking Performance at 0o F (–17.8o C)

110 Minute Reserve Capacity at 80o F (26.7o C)

FILLER CAPS
CAP TUBES

Battery Specifications Groundsmaster 345 CORRECT

WATER
LEVEL
BCI Group 24

420 Amp Cranking Performance at 0o F (–17.8o C)

67 Minute Reserve Capacity at 80o F (26.7o C)

COVER SEAL

CAUTION
Figure 14
Wear safety goggles and rubber gloves
when working with electrolyte. Charge C. Check for signs of wetness or leakage on the top
the battery in a well ventilated so gases of the battery which might indicate a loose or mis-
produced while charging can dissipate. sing filler cap, overcharging, loose terminal post or
Since the gases are explosive, keep open overfilling. Also, check the battery case for dirt and
flame and electrical spark away from the oil. Clean the battery with a solution of baking soda
battery; do not smoke. Nausea may and water, then rinse it with clean water.
result if the gases are inhaled. Unplug
D. Check that the cover seal is not broken away.
charger from electrical outlet before con-
Replace the battery if the seal is broken or leaking.
necting to, or disconnecting charger
leads from battery posts. E. Check the electrolyte level in each cell. If the lev-
el is below the tops of the plates in any cell, fill all
cells with distilled water to the bottom of the cap
tubes. Charge at 15 to 25 amps for 15 minutes to al-
low sufficient mixing of the electrolyte.

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 2. Conduct a hydrometer test of the battery electrolyte. A. Check the voltage across the battery terminals
prior to testing the battery. If the voltage is less than
IMPORTANT: Make sure the area around the cells is 12.0 VDC, recharge the battery.
clean before opening the battery caps.
B. If the battery has been charged, apply a 150 amp
A. Measure the specific gravity of each cell with a load for 15 seconds to remove the surface charge.
hydrometer. Draw electrolyte in and out of the Use a battery load tester following the manufactur-
hydrometer barrel prior to taking a reading to warm– er’s instructions.
up the hydrometer. At the same time take the tem-
perature of the cell. C. Make sure the battery terminals are free of corro-
sion.
B. Temperature correct each cell reading. For each
10o F (5.5o C) above 80 F (26.7o C) add 0.004 to the D. Measure the temperature of the center cell.
specific gravity reading. For each 10o F (5.5o C) be-
low 80o F (26.7o C) subtract 0.004 from the specific E. Connect a battery load tester to the battery ter-
gravity reading. minals following the manufacturer’s instruc-
tions. Connect a digital multimeter to the battery
Example: Cell Temperature 100o F terminals.
Cell Gravity 1.245
ADD (20o above 80o F) 0.008 F. Apply a test load of one half the Cranking Perfor-
Correction to 80o F 1.253 mance rating of the battery for 15 seconds.
C. If the difference between the highest and lowest G. Take a voltage reading at 15 seconds, then re-
cell specific gravity is 0.050 or greater or the lowest move the load.
cell specific gravity is less than 1.225, charge the
battery. Charge at the recommended rate and time H. Using the table below, determine the minimum
given in Charging or until specific gravity of all cells voltage for the cell temperature reading.
is 1.225 or greater with the difference in specific
gravity between the highest and lowest cell less
than 0.050. If these charging conditions can not be Minimum Battery Electrolyte
Voltage Temperature
met, replace the battery.
9.6 70o F (and up) 21.1o C (and up)
3. Perform a high–discharge test with an adjustable
9.5 60o F 15.6o C
load tester.
9.4 50o F 10.0o C
This is one of the most reliable means of testing a battery 9.3 40o F 4.4o C
as it simulates the cold–cranking test. A commercial bat-
tery load tester is required to perform this test. 9.1 30o F –1.1o C
8.9 20o F –6.7o C
8.7 10o F –12.2o C
CAUTION 8.5 0o F –17.8o C

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions when I. If the test voltage is below the minimum, replace
using a battery load tester. the battery. If the test voltage is at or above the mini-
mum, return the battery to service.

Groundsmaster 300 Series Page 6A – 13 Electrical System (Rev. G)

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 Charging

To minimize possible damage to the battery and allow CAUTION

the battery to be fully charged, the slow charging meth-
od is presented here. This charging method can be ac- Do not charge a frozen battery because it
complished with a constant current battery charger can explode and cause injury. Let the bat-
which is available in most shops. tery warm to 60o F (15.5o C) before con-
necting to a charger.

CAUTION Charge the battery in a well–ventilated

place to dissipate gases produced from
charging. These gases are explosive;
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions when keep open flame and electrical spark
using a battery charger. away from the battery. Do not smoke.
Nausea may result if the gases are in-
haled. Unplug the charger from the elec-
1. Determine the battery charge level from either its
trical outlet before connecting or discon-
open circuit voltage or specific gravity.
necting the charger leads from the battery
posts.
Battery Charge Open Circuit Specific
Level Voltage Gravity
100% 12.68 1.265 3. Following the manufacturer’s battery charger
instructions, connect the charger cables to the battery.
75% 12.45 1.225 Make sure a good connection is made.
50% 12.24 1.190
4. Charge the battery following the manufacturer’s
25% 12.06 1.155 battery charger instructions.
0% 11.89 1.120
5. Occasionally check the temperature of the battery
electrolyte. If the temperature exceeds 125o F (51.6o C)
2. Determine the charging time and rate using the
or the electrolyte is violently gassing or spewing, the
manufacturer’s battery charger instructions or the
charging rate must be lowered or temporarily stopped.
following table.
6. Three hours prior to the end of the charging, mea-
Reserve Battery Charge Level sure the specific gravity of a battery cell once per hour.
Capacity (Percent of Fully Charged) The battery is fully charged when the cells are gassing
(Minutes) freely at a low charging rate and there is less than a
75% 50% 25% 0%
0.003 change in specific gravity for three consecutive
80 or less 3.8 hrs 7.5 hrs 11.3 hrs 15 hrs readings.
at at at at
3 amps 3 amps 3 amps 3 amps
81 to 125 5.3 hrs 10.5 hrs 15.8 hrs 21 hrs
at at at at
4 amps 4 amps 4 amps 4 amps
126 to 5.5 hrs 11 hrs 16.5 hrs 22 hrs
170 at at at at
5 amps 5 amps 5 amps 5 amps
171 to 5.8 hrs 11.5 hrs 17.3 hrs 23 hrs
250 at at at at
6 amps 6 amps 6 amps 6 amps
above 6 hrs 12 hrs 18 hrs 24 hrs
250 at at at at
10 amps 10 amps 10 amps 10 amps

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 Chapter 7

Differential Axle
Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Axle Shaft Disassembly
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 and Wheel Bearing Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
REPAIRS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Differential and Housing Disassembly. . . . . . . . . 8
Axle Removal and Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Differential and Housing Reassembly . . . . . . . . 14

Introduction
Groundsmaster® 300 Series traction units are equipped
with a Dana Hydrostatic Axle, model GT-20. The differ-
ential and axle form the final drive of the power train
(Fig. 1A).

The differential has a heavy duty case with automotive

type, cut gears that rotate on tapered roller bearings.
Single-row, pre-set, tapered roller bearings are used on
the outside ends of the axle shafts.

The entire drive line of the axle assembly is made of

alloy steel. The axle has a die-cast aluminum housing
that also serves as the hydraulic oil reservoir.

Power is transmitted from the transmission output gear

to the pinion spur gear. The pinion spur gear transmits
power directly to the differential drive gears, to turn the
axles and the wheels.

The differential axle has a one-piece axle shaft with the

flange being part of the axle stem (Fig. 1B).

Figure 1A

Figure 1B

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 Specifications

Item Specification
__________________________________________________________________________________________
Front wheel lug nut torque 45 to 55 ft-lb
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________

Front to rear housing torque 18 to 28 ft-lb

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________

Transmission to axle torque 25 to 30 ft-lb

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________

Differential bearing caps torque 30 to 45 ft-lb

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________

Ring gear to differential case torque 45 to 65 ft-lb

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________

Fill pipe torque 20 to 30 ft-lb

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________

Side plate (gear cover) torque 25 to 40 in-lb

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________

Axle shaft bearing retainer (nut) torque

With hex head screw 37 to 45 ft-lb
With socket head screw (newer models) 16 to 20 ft-lb
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________

Ring gear to pinion gear backlash 0.003 to 0.007 in.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________

Pinion gear end play 0.00 to 0.005 in.

Special Tools
NOTE: Order special tools from the TORO SPECIAL Catalog for your Toro equipment. Some tools may also
TOOLS AND APPLICATIONS GUIDE (COMMERCIAL be available from a local supplier.
PRODUCTS). Some tools may be listed in the Parts

Differential Gear Holder

Remove gear cover from right hand side of differential
and bolt this tool in place to lock spur gear in position
when removing nut that secures drive shaft flange for
4WD drive shaft.

Figure 2

Special Tools Page 7 - 2 Rev. A Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Repairs

Axle Removal and Installation

1. Put machine on a level surface, lower cutting unit,
stop the engine and remove key from ignition switch.
Block rear wheels to prevent machine from moving.

2. Remove the cutting unit. (See the Repairs section of

Chapter 11 - Cutting Units.)

3. If unit is equipped with 4WD, remove rear axle drive

shaft (see Chapter 9 - 4WD Rear Axle).

4. Remove hydrostatic transmission. (See Repairs sec-

tion of Chapter 5 - Hydraulic System.)

5. Slightly loosen all front wheel lug nuts. Jack both front
wheels off the ground and install jackstands or blocks Figure 3A
under traction unit frame (not axle tubes) to prevent
machine from falling. Remove both front wheels.

6. Remove extension spring and clevis pin to disconnect

brake cable from brake actuating lever on each brake.

7. Remove capscrew securing axle support bracket to

top of differential. Loosen nuts securing axle support
bracket to frame (Fig. 3A).

8. Put a jack or blocking under differential to hold it in

place. Remove capscrews and locknuts securing axle
mounting pads to frame. Note number of shims between
frame and axle mounting pad, which are used to get
correct engine to transmission alignment (Fig. 3B).
Carefully lower axle and pull it out from under trac-
tion unit. Figure 3B
9. If unit is equipped with 4WD, remove nut (Fig. 3C,
Item 20), washer (Item 21) and flange (Item 22) from
differential axle pinion (Item 8). Use Differential Gear
Holder tool to gears when removing nut.

NOTE: Before installing flange (for 4WD drive shaft),

apply Permatex No. 2 to external splines of pinion and
internal splines of flange. Tighten lock nut to secure
pinion coupler 75 - 90 ft-lb (102 - 122 N-m).

10. To install axle, reverse steps 1 - 9. Leave axle

mounting pad nuts loose. Install shims (P/N 42-6080)
between axle mounting pads and frame to get correct
engine to transmission alignment, then tighten axle
mounting nuts.
Figure 3C

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 Axle Shaft Disassembly and Wheel Bearing Service

NOTE: When servicing the bearing and seal area of the

axle shaft, it is recommended that you replace hex head
screws and flange nuts with socket head screws (94-
6934), washers (94-6936) and nuts (94-6935). See
Figure 18.

1. After the wheel has been removed, slide the brake

drum off of the axle flange (Fig. 5).

NOTE: It may be necessary to loosen the brake shoes

by turning the star wheel inside the brake drum assemb-
ly. (See Chapter 7 - Steering and Brakes.)

Figure 5

2. Line up the hole in the axle shaft flange and remove

the backing plate nuts which hold the axle shaft assemb-
ly to the axle housing. Use a 1/2 inch socket wrench
(Fig. 6).

Figure 6

3. Pull out the axle shaft and brake assembly (Fig. 7).

NOTE: Bearing races and retainer ring are cemented

together with an epoxy adhesive. If the bearing and race
come apart, remove the bearing cup from the housing
with a puller.

Figure 7

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 4. Remove the inner axle shaft seal (Fig. 8). Discard the
seal and replace with a new one at the time of assembly.

Figure 8

5. Center punch the outside of the retaining ring (Fig. 9).

Figure 9

6. Drill a 1/4 inch hole (approximate) into the outside of

the retainer ring to a depth of about 3/4 the thickness of
the ring (Fig. 10).

IMPORTANT: Drilling completely through the re­

tainer ring could damage the shaft.

Figure 10

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 7 - 5 Repairs

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 7. After drilling, put a chisel in position across the hole
and strike sharply to break the ring. Replace with a new
ring at time of reassembly (Fig. 11).

WARNING
Wear protective safety goggles when break­
ing the retaining ring. Personal injury could
result from flying metal particles. Keep all
personnel away during this procedure.

Figure 11

8. Inspect the shaft for possible damage (Fig. 12).

Inspect the sealing surface of the hub and shaft. Re-
place it if the seal has grooved the surface more that
1/64 inch (0.4 mm).

9. Put a new grease seal, brake assembly, and a new

grease packed bearing (in that order) onto the axle
shaft.

Figure 12

10. Press the assembly until the bearing is firmly seated

against the axle shaft shoulder (Fig. 13).

Figure 13

Repairs Page 7 - 6 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 11. Slide a new retaining ring on the axle shaft and
support the shaft and ring in a suitable press (Fig. 14).
Press the retaining ring firmly against the bearing.

Figure 14

12. Put a light coating of No. 1 Permatex on the outside

diameter of a new grease seal (surface that contacts the
axle housing). Install the new seal to a depth of 1.218
in. into the housing (Fig. 15, 16). After the seal has been
assembled, put grease on the lip of the seal.

Figure 15

1.218" seal
installation depth

Figure 16

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 7 - 7 Repairs

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 13. Assemble the bearing retainer bolts to the axle
housing. Apply a 0.625 in. (16 mm) bead of gasket
material to flange on end of axle housing, then install
the axle shaft assembly into the axle housing. Be careful
not to damage the oil seal and bearing. Line up the
holes of the brake assembly and oil seal. Push the axle
shaft as far as possible into the axle housing (Fig. 17).

Wheel end gasket material: P/N 92-8775 Liquid Gasket Kit

(Kit contains Loctite Ultra-Gray
gasket eliminator and instructions.

Make sure surface Make sure capscrews

is flat. File off any are flat against flange.
high spots. Grind off any material
from tube that interferes.

Figure 17

Socket Hd Screw
(94-6934)

14. Start the nuts by hand. Tighten the nuts so the

bearing assembly is drawn evenly into the axle housing Nut (94-6935)
(Fig. 18). NOTE: It is recommended that you replace
Washer (94-6936)
hex head screws and flange nuts with socket head
screws, washers and nuts (Fig. 18). If installing socket
head screws, tighten the nuts to a torque of 16 - 20 ft.-lb.
(2 - 3 Kgm). If reinstalling hex head screws, tighten the
nuts to a torque of 37 - 45 ft.-lb. (5 - 6 Kgm).

IMPORTANT: Hold the socket head screw or hex

head screw when tightening the nut to prevent the Hold socket head screw and tighten
head from turning into the tube radius. nut to 16 - 20 ft-lb (2 - 3 Kgm)

Figure 18

Differential and Housing Disassembly

1. Remove the right and left-hand axle assemblies. (See
Axle Shaft Disassembly and Wheel Bearing Service in
this section of the book.)

Remove the eight (8) housing cap screws and separate

the upper and lower axle housings (Fig. 19). Clean the
gasket material from the mating surfaces before reas-
sembly.

NOTE: A complete Upper Housing Assembly for Dif-

ferential repairs is available. Using this assembly
eliminates the need for “trial and error” shimming pro-
cedures to establish the correct contact pattern between
ring and pinion gears.
Figure 19

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 2. Remove the four bearing cap screws and remove the
caps. Place the caps in a safe place to avoid damaging
their machined surfaces (Fig. 20).

The bearing caps are marked for identification. The

letters or numbers are in horizontal and vertical posi-
tions. When reassembling, place them back in the same
position.

Figure 20

3. To remove the differential assembly, place two

wooden devices (i.e. hammer handles) under the differ-
ential case and pry firmly upward. The bearing cups
must be kept with their mating cones (Fig. 21).

Figure 21

4. Remove the ring gear cap screws. Using a hard

wooden block and a hammer, drive the ring gear off of
the differential case. Be prepared to protect the ring gear
when removing it from the differential case; this will
avoid damage of the ring gear teeth (Fig. 22).

NOTE: It is recommended that whenever the ring gear

screws are removed, they are to be replaced with new
screws.

Figure 22

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 7 - 9 Repairs

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 5. Do not remove the bearings from the differential case
unless bearing failure is evident. It is recommended that
whenever bearings are removed (regardless of usage)
they must be replaced with new ones. Remove the case
side bearing with a puller as shown (Fig. 23).

Figure 23

6. Put the case in a vise. Drive the lock pin out of the
pinion shaft (Fig. 24). Use a small drift punch as shown.

WARNING
To prevent personal injury, always wear a face
shield or safety goggles when striking a drift
punch with a hammer.

Figure 24

7. While supporting the differential in a vise, drive the

pinion mate shaft from the differential with a long drift
punch (Fig. 25).

Figure 25

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 8. To remove the side gears and pinion mate gears,
rotate the side gears. This will allow the pinion mate
gears to turn to the opening of the case (Fig. 26).
Remove the pinion mate gears and the spherical wash-
ers behind the gears.

Figure 26

9. Remove the eight side cover capscrews. Remove the

the side cover from the carrier assembly (Fig. 27). Clean
the gasket material from the mating surfaces before
reassembly.

Figure 27

10. If unit has an expansion plug, remove it by driving a

pointed punch through the plug about 3/8 inch (10 mm)
from the outer edge. When the hole is large enough,
insert a large screwdriver through it and pry the plug
outward (Fig. 28).

Figure 28

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 7 - 11 Repairs

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 11. Before pressing pinion out of housing:

If unit was equipped with an expansion plug (re-

moved in step 10), remove the snap ring and shim
from the end of the pinion (Fig. 29).

If unit is equipped with a flange for 4WD (no expan-

sion plug), nut, washer and flange (Fig. 3C) must be
removed before pressing pinion out of housing.

Figure 29

12. Position the housing assembly on a suitable press.

Place a 1/8 inch (3 mm) piece of steel or a screwdriver
blade under the edge of the spur gear. This will prevent
the spur gear from cocking and possibly cracking the
housing (Fig. 30).

When the pinion is close to being pressed completely

out of the bearing, reach under the housing and catch
the pinion in your hand to prevent any damage to the
pinion.

Figure 30

Removing the drive pinion releases the spur gear,

spacer, and outer pinion bearing for removal (Fig. 31).

If unit was equipped with a flange for 4WD (no expan-

sion plug), remove oil seal from housing (Fig. 3C).

Figure 31

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 13. Clamp the inner pinion bearing with a universal
bearing remover (Fig. 32). Position the unit in a press
and carefully push the drive pinion out of the bearing.

DO NOT allow the pinion to drop on the floor - damage

will result.

Figure 32

14. To remove the outer pinion bearing cup, position the

housing in a press. Place a press plate of the proper
size against the cup. Press the cup out of the housing
(Fig. 33).

Figure 33

15. Position the front housing on a press bed with the

bearing saddles resting on the press bed. Protect the
bearing saddles with a strip of wood if the press bed is
rough.

Insert a press plate of the proper size and press the

bearing cup toward the inside of the housing. Retain the
shims located under the bearing cup (Fig. 34). If the
shims are damaged, replace with new shims of the
same thickness.

Figure 34

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 7 - 13 Repairs

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 Differential and Housing Reassembly

1. Inspect the differential parts for damage before

assembling.

A. If any bearings are damaged they must be re-

placed with new ones.

B. Check the ring, pinion, and spur gear for abnormal

wear and damage; replace worn components.

C. Inspect the housings for cracks and external

damage that could affect the operation of the axle
assembly.

D. Inspect the differential case for wear in the side

gear and pinion mate area. Replace the case if its
machined areas are scored or if the pinion mate shaft Figure 35
fits loosely in the bore.

2. Press the inner pinion bearing onto the pinion drive

gear. Support the bearing on the inner cup of the bearing
ONLY WHEN INSTALLING (Fig. 35).

3. Put the front housing on a press. Using a press plate,

push the outer pinion bearing cup into the housing until
it bottoms in the housing (Fig. 36).

Figure 36

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 Ring and Pinion Set

Rings gears and pinions are supplied in matched sets

only. Matching numbers are etched on both the pinion
and ring gear (Fig. 37).

The mounting distance from the bottom of the differen-

tial bearing bores to the button end of the pinion is
1.210 in.

On the button end of each pinion there is a plus (+) or

minus (–) number, or a (0) number. This number indi-
cates the best running position for each particular gear
set. This dimension is controlled by the shimming be-
hind the inner bearing cup.

For example, if a pinion is etched +3, this pinion would

require 0.003 in. less than a pinion etched “0". This Figure 37
means that by removing shims, the mounting distance
of the pinion is increased to 1.213 in., which is just what
+3 indicates. Or if a pinion is etched –3, we would want
to add 0.003 in. shims, the mounting distance of the the
pinion was decreased to 1.207 in., which is just what a
–3 etching indicates.

If a new gear set is being used, notice the (+) or (–)

etching on both the old and new pinion and adjust the
thickness of the new shim pack to compensate for the
difference of these two numbers.

For example: If the old pinion reads +2 and the new

pinion is –2, add .004 in. shims to the original shim pack.

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 4. Install a new inner bearing cup using a press plate of
proper diameter. Reuse the original shims or use new
shims of the same thickness. Push the bearing cup into
the housing until it bottoms against the housing
(Fig. 38).

Figure 38

5. Insert the pinion into the housing.

NOTE: A number marked on the new ring and pinion

set is used to establish the proper amount of shims
required prior to installing the pinion gear (see
page 15). The final pinion position will be verified by
using the gear contact pattern method as described
on page 21of this chapter.

Figure 39

6. Insert the spur gear into the front housing with the
chamfered area of the center spline toward the drive
pinion. Install the drive pinion with a soft mallet to
engage the splines in the spur gear (Fig. 40).

Figure 40

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 7. Support the drive pinion in a suitable press (Fig. 41).

Figure 41

8. Install the outer pinion spacer with the chamfer to-

wards the pinion splines and install the new outer pinion
bearing cone (Fig. 42).

Figure 42

9. With a hollow press sleeve of proper diameter, press

on the outer bearing cone race until the drive pinion
seats in the carrier and a slight drag is noticed when the
gear is rotated by hand (2-13 in.-lb. torque to rotate)
(Fig. 43). If the drag is to severe, tap the pinion shaft
with a soft mallet until the drag is reduced.

Figure 43

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 10. Install the shim and snap ring onto the end of the
pinion shaft. Use the thickest shim possible which will
permit installation of the snap ring (Fig. 44). Limit the
end play to 0.000 - 0.005 inch (0.000 - 0.127 mm).

Figure 44

11. Apply a small bead of Permatex No. 2 or silicone

sealant to the outer edge of the carrier bore. Install the
expansion plug (or seal if equipped with flange for 4WD)
into carrier until plug or seal seats firmly in carrier bore
(Fig. 45).

Figure 45

12. Install the spur gear cover. Use Permatex No. 2 or

silicone sealant when installing the cover. Tighten the
capscrews to a torque of 25 - 40 in.-lb. (Fig. 46).

Figure 46

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 13. Place the differential case in a vise as shown
(Fig. 47). Apply grease to new side gear thrust washers
and hubs of the side gears. Apply grease to new pinion
mate spherical washers and pinion mate gears. Place
the side gears and thrust washers in the case. Install the
pinion gears while holding the side gears in place.

Rotate the side gears until the holes of the washers and
pinion gears line up with the holes of the case. If the
gears cannot be rotated by hand, install one of the axle
shafts into the side gear spline and use a pipe wrench
to turn the shafts.

Figure 47

14. Install the pinion shaft. Grease the shaft to aid

assembly. Be sure the hole in the pinion shaft lines up
with the hole in the differential case (Fig. 48).

Figure 48

15. Assemble the lock pin. Drive the pin to the approxi-
mate center location of the pinion mate shaft. Peen the
metal of the case to lock the pin in place (Fig. 49).

Figure 49

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 16. Put the ring gear onto the differential case and start
the new capscrews into the gear with your fingers.
Tighten the screws, alternating back and forth across
the gear to allow the gear to be pulled evenly into place.
Tighten the cap screws to a torque of 45 - 65 ft-lb (6.2 -
9.0 KgM) (Fig. 50).

Figure 50

17. When installing new differential bearings, reuse the

original shims or use new shims of the same thickness.
Press the bearing onto the differential case. If a new
differential case is being installed, start with a .020 inch
pack of shims under each differential bearing. Shims are
available in .003, .005, .010, and .030 inch sizes
(Fig. 51).

18. Assemble new differential bearing cups to differen-

tial bearing cones. Seat differential assembly with drive
gear on proper side of carrier into carrier bearing cra-
dles.

NOTE: Groundsmaster 300 Series (S/N 90001 & up)

require that the ring gear teeth face toward the spur gear
cover. Figure 51

The bearing cradles are designed to apply a slight

preload to the bearings. It is important to push both of
the bearing assemblies simultaneously into their
saddles.

Bearing caps must be installed with indexing marks “P”

adjacent to indexing marks “P” in case. Install the bear-
ing caps into their original position as previously
marked. Tighten the cap screws to a torque of 30 - 45
ft-lb (4.1-6.2 KgM) (Fig. 52).

Figure 52

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 19. Using a dial indicator, check the ring gear backlash
in three equally spaced points. Ring gear backlash
should be .003 - .007 inch (.076 - .178 mm) and must
not vary more than .002 in. between points checked
(Fig. 53).

If the backlash is not in this range, move the shims which

are located beneath the differential bearings, from one
side to the other until the correct backlash is attained.

Checking Ring Gear Pattern Figure 53

Final position of pinion is verified by using the gear

contact pattern method as described in the following
procedure.

Gear tooth Toe - the portion of the tooth surface at

the end towards the center.
Gear tooth Heel - the portion of the gear tooth at the
outer end.
Gear tooth Top Land - top surface of tooth.

Every gear has a characterisitc pattern. The illustrations

show typical patterns only and explaing how patterns
shift as gear location is changed. When making pinion
position changes, shims should be changed in the range
Figure 54
of .002 inch to .004 inch until a correct pattern has been
obtained.
Drive Side Coast Side
When a change in backlash is required, backlash shims Heel Toe Heel Toe
should be changed in the range of 1-1/2 times the
amount of backlash required to bring the gears into
specification. For example, if the backlash needed to be
changed by .004 inch, the shim pack should be changed
by .006 inch as a starting point.

High backlash is corrected by moving the ring gear

closer to the pinion. Low backlash is corrected by mov-
ing the ring gear away from the pinion. These correc-
tions are made by switching shims from one side of the
differential case to the other.
Figure 54A
To check the ring gear and pinion pattern:

1. Paint the teeth of the ring gear, both drive and coast
side, with a gear marking compound, such as DyKem NOTE: When making changes, note that two variables
Steel Blue. are involved. Example: If you have the backlash set
correctly to specifications and you change the pinion
2. While applying a light load to the ring gear, rotate the position shim, you may have to readjust backlash to the
pinion gear until the ring gear has made one complete correct specification before checking the pattern.
revolution. Study the patterns in the following illustra-
tions and correct as necessary.

The preferred pattern is shown in Figure 54A. The drive

side pattern should be located at the toe portion of the
tooth. The coast pattern should also be at the toe portion
of the tooth.

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 Drive Side Coast Side
Heel Toe Heel Toe
Backlash correct. Thicker pinion position shims
required.

Figure 55

Drive Side Coast Side

Heel Toe Heel Toe
Backlash correct. Thinner pinion position shims
required.

Figure 56

Drive Side Coast Side

Heel Toe Heel Toe
Backlash incorrect. Thinner pinion position shim re-
quired. Adjust backlash to match.

Figure 57

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 Gear Pattern Movements Summary

1. Decreasing backlash moves the ring gear closer to

the pinion.

Drive pattern (convex side of gear) moves lower

and toward the toe.

Coast pattern (concave side of gear) moves slightly

higher and toward the heel.

2. Increasing backlash moves the ring gear away from

the pinion.

Drive pattern moves higher and toward the heel.

Coast pattern moves slightely lower and toward

the toe.

3. Thicker pinion position shim with the backlash con-

stant moves the pinion closer to the ring gear.

Drive pattern moves deeper on the tooth (flank

contact) and slightly toward the toe.

Coast pattern moves deeper on the tooth and to-

ward the heel.

4. Thinner pinion position shim with backlash constant

moves the pinion further from the ring gear.

Drive pattern moves toward the top of the tooth

(face contact) and toward the heel.

Coast pattern moves toward the top of the tooth

(face contact) and toward the heel.

Apply silicone sealant between the front and rear axle

housings and install the eight housing cap screws.
Tighten the cap screws to a torque of 18 - 23 ft-lb (2.5 -
3.2 KgM) (Fig. 58).

Figure 58

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 Repairs Page 7 - 24 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Chapter 8

Steering and Brakes

Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 REPAIRS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
SCHEMATICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Steering Wheel Removal and Installation . . . . . 11
SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Rear Axle Bushing Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Steering Pivot Bushing Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Rear Wheel Spindle Bushing Service . . . . . . . . 14
TESTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Front Wheel Bearing Service. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Steering Valve and Pump Tests . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Rear Wheel Bearing Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Steering Cylinder Internal Leakage Test . . . . . . . 8 Steering Cylinder Removal and Installation. . . . 18
ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Steering Cylinder Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Rear Wheel Toe-In Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Brake Shoe Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Brake Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Steering Valve Removal and Installation . . . . . . 21
Steering Valve Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

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 Introduction

Power Steering
The Groundsmaster® 300 Series traction units are
equipped with power steering. The power steering valve
is enclosed in the steering tower at the front of the
traction unit. As the steering wheel is turned, the steer-
ing valve meters hydraulic fluid to the double-acting
steering cylinder on the rear axle and turns the wheels.
Hydraulic fluid flow for power steering is supplied by the
charge pump on the hydrostatic transmission. The im-
plement/steering hydraulic circuit is designed so priority
flow is provided for steering.

The Model HGF Hydraguide TM steering valve (Fig. 1) is

manufactured by TRW, Ross Gear Division.

NOTE: Because the steering cylinder has different dis-

placements when extended and retracted, the steering
wheel will not return to its original position after making
a turn.

NOTE: The steering system will operate with the engine

off if necessary (with increased effort).

Figure 1

Brakes
The Groundsmaster® 300 Series traction units are
equipped with 7 inch diameter x 1-3/4 inch wide
mechanical drum brakes on the front wheels.

Two pedals are used to control the brakes. When used

separately, the pedals can control each wheel brake to
assist steering or traction on side hills. The two pedals
may be locked together with the brake lock arm. When
the lock arm is engaged both wheels will brake equally
and act as a service brake or parking brake.

The brake pedals operate the brakes through a cable

system to a strut and lever on the brake shoes.

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 Power Steering Schematics

FROM
PUMP
When the steering wheel is turned to the right (Fig. 3),
STEERING VALVE
the control valve within the steering valve shifts to close
the “AUX” port. This directs oil supplied by the steering
pump to the metering section of the steering valve. As
the steering wheel is turned, system oil is metered out
port “RT” to the steering cylinder. Oil displaced by the
other end of the steering cylinder returns to the steering
valve through port “LT” and is directed out port “OUT”
back to reservoir.

NOTE: On 2WD units right turn pressure is supplied

Right Turn
to the rod end of the steering cylinder and left turn
STEERING CYLINDER
pressure to the barrel end as shown. On 4WD units
these hydraulic lines are reversed (right turn pres­
sure to barrel end and left turn pressure to rod end). Figure 3

FROM
PUMP
When the steering wheel is stationary, the control valve STEERING VALVE
within the steering valve shifts back to neutral (Fig. 4),
allowing system oil to flow through the steering valve
and out the “AUX” port back to reservoir. Oil in the rest
of the steering circuit is then trapped.

Neutral
STEERING CYLINDER

Figure 4

FROM
When the steering valve is turned to the left (Fig. 5) oil PUMP
is metered out port “LT” to the steering cylinder. Oil STEERING VALVE
displaced by the other end of the cylinder returns to the
steering valve through port “RT” and is directed out port
“OUT” back to reservoir.

Left Turn
STEERING CYLINDER

Figure 5

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 Specifications

Item Specification
__________________________________________________________________________________________
Front wheel lug nut torque 45 to 55 ft-lb
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Rear wheel lug nut torque 30 to 35 ft-lb

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Steering cylinder bolt torque 130 to 150 ft-lb

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Rear wheel toe-in 0 to 1/8 in.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Tire pressure 10 to 15 psi, front and rear

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Brake pedal free travel 1/2 to 1 in.

Special Tools
Steering Valve Service Fixture
To avoid distorting or damaging the steering valve when Steering Valve Service in the Repairs section of this
repairing, do not clamp it directly into a vise. Fabricate chapter).
a service fixture (Fig. 6) and use it as instructed (See

Figure 6

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 Troubleshooting

Problem Possible Causes

___________________________________________________________________________________________

Steering Wander Tire pressure incorrect or unequal left to right.

Loose or worn steering linkage.

Improperly adjusted or worn rear wheel bearings.

Rear wheels out of alignment; toe-in / toe-out.

Internal leakage of steering cylinder.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Poor or No Returnability (Recovery) Improper rear wheel alignment; toe-in.

Steering linkage binding.

Low tire pressure.

Steering column binding or out of alignment.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Shimmy Steering linkage loose, worn or out of adjustment.

Wheel bearings out of adjustment.

Air in hydraulic system.

Internal leakage of steering cylinder.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

High Steering Effort in One Direction Low hydraulic system pressure.

Excessive heat causing steering valve plate valve to

stick (See Excessive Heat in this section).
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

High Steering Effort in Both Directions Cold hydraulic oil or oil viscosity not correct for
ambinent temperature.

Low hydraulic fluid level.

Low flow or pressure from hydraulic pump.

Steering linkage binding.

Restriction in hydraulic return line.

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 Problem Possible Causes
__________________________________________________________________________________________

Steering Wheel Lash (Free Movement) Steering wheel loose on column.

Steering linkage loose or worn.

Steering valve loose at mounting.

Air in hydraulic system.

Internal leakage in hydraulic cylinder.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Excessive Heat in Hydraulic System Undersized replacement hose or tube line.

Kinked or severely bent hose or tube line.

Restricted oil cooler.

Restricted recentering of steering valve control valve

plate.

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 Testing

Steering Valve Test (Control Valve Section)

Using Hydraulic Tester With Flow Meter

1. Engage the parking brake and block the front wheels

to prevent movement of the machine. Lower the cutting
unit or implement to the floor and turn the engine OFF.

2. Disconnect the hydraulic hose at the charge pump

outlet (pressure) fitting.

3. Connect the inlet hose of the tester to the hydraulic

fitting on the transmission and the outlet hose of the
tester to hose that was disconnected in step 2.

IMPORTANT: Make sure that the oil flow indicator

arrow on the flow gauge is showing that the oil will
flow through the tester from the charge pump to the
steering valve.

4. Make sure that the tester load valve is fully open

(counterclockwise). Start the engine and allow it to run
for approximately 5 minutes so that the hydraulic oil
reaches normal operating temperature.

5. With the tester load valve fully open (counterclock-

wise) run the engine at full throttle.

6. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right

(clockwise) and hold it against the right stop. Look at the Figure 7
flow meter. There should be no flow as the steering 1. Transmission
wheel is held against the right stop. Flow should be 2. Tester
approximately 3 gpm when the steering wheel is re- 3. Load valve
leased. Repeat this procedure with the steering wheel
all the way to the left (counterclockwise). If flow does not
return to approximately 3 gpm when the steering wheel
is released the control valve within the steering valve
may be sticking.

If a Hydraulic Tester is Not Available:

1. Engage the parking brake.

2. Run the engine at full throttle.

3. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right

(clockwise) and hold it against the stop. Pull the lift
control lever back to raise the implement while holding
the steering wheel against the stop. The implement
should NOT raise until the steering wheel is released.
Repeat this procedure with the steering wheel turned all
the way to the left (counterclockwise). If the implement
raises slowly, or not at all when the steering wheel is
released, the control valve within the steering valve may
by sticking. When turning the steering wheel, the wheels
must move from stop to stop. The wheels must move
smoothly in both directions.

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 Steering Cylinder Internal Leakage Test
1. Engage the parking brake, and lower the cutting unit
to the floor.

2. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left (coun-
terclockwise) on a 2WD machine or to the right (clock-
wise) on a 4WD machine, so the steering cylinder rod
is extended all the way.

3. Turn the engine OFF.

4. Disconnect the hydraulic hose from the fitting on the

rod end of the cylinder. Put a plug in the end of the hose
to prevent contamination.

5. With the engine OFF, continue turning the steering

wheel to the left (counterclockwise) with the cylinder rod
completely extended and observe the open fitting on the
steering cylinder. If oil comes out of the fitting while
turning the steering wheel to the left, the steering cylin-
der has internal leakage and must be repaired or re-
placed.

NOTE: DO NOT turn the steering wheel to the right

(clockwise) or the steering valve will meter oil out the
disconnected hydraulic hose.

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 Adjustments

Rear Wheel Toe-in Adjustment

The rear wheels should have 0 to 1/8 of an inch toe-in
when they are pointed straight ahead. To check toe-in,
measure the center-to-center distance, at axle height,
in front and rear of steering tires. If toe-in is not within
specifications, an adjustment is required.

1. Rotate the steering wheel so the rear wheels and

steering plate are straight ahead.

2. Loosen the jam nuts on both tie rods. Adjust both tie
rods until center-to-center distance at front of rear
wheels is 0 - 1/8 of an inch less than at the rear of the
wheels (Fig. 9). Figure 9
3. When toe-in is correct, tighten jam nuts against tie 1. Steering plate
rods.

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 Brake Adjustment
Adjust the service brakes when there is more that one
inch of “free travel” of the brake pedals. Free travel is
the distance the brake pedal moves before braking
resistance is felt.

Adjust where brake cables connect to brake pedal

mount. When cable is no longer adjustable, star nut on
inside of the brake drum must be adjusted to move
brake shoes outward. Brake cables must be adjusted
again after star nut is adjusted.

1. Disengage lock arm from left brake pedal so both

pedals work independently of each other. Figure 12
2. To reduce free travel of brake pedals: 1. Jam nuts

A. Loosen front nut on threaded end of brake cable

(Fig. 12).
1

B. Tighten rear nut to move cable toward the rear

until brake pedals have 1/2 to 1 in. of free travel.

C. Tighten front nut after adjusting.

3. When brake cables cannot be adjusted to get free

travel within 1/2 to 1 in., star nut inside brake drum must
be adjusted. Before adjusting the star nut, loosen brake
cable nuts to prevent unnecessary strain on the cables.
Figure 13
4. Loosen (do not remove) the five (5) wheel lug nuts. 1. Brake adjusting slot

5. Jack up machine until front wheel is off the floor. Use

1
jack stands or block machine to prevent it from falling
accidentally.
2
6. Remove wheel nuts and slide wheel off the studs.
Rotate the brake drum until adjusting slot is at the top 2
and centered over star-nut (Fig. 13).

7. Use a brake adjusting tool or a screwdriver to rotate

star nut until brake drum locks because of outward
pressure of brake shoes (Fig. 14).

8. Loosen star nut approximately 12 to 15 notches or Figure 14

until brake drum rotates freely.
1. Star nut 2. Brake shoe

9. Install wheel onto studs with five (5) wheel nuts.

Tighten the wheel lug nuts.

10. Remove jack stands or blocking and lower machine

to floor. Tighten wheel lug nuts to a torque of 45 to
55 ft-lb.

11. Adjust brake cables (see step 2 of this procedure).

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 Repairs

Steering Wheel Removal and Installation

Removing the Steering Wheel

Remove the cover from the steering wheel hub. Re-

move the locknut that secures the steering wheel to the
shaft (Fig. 15). Pull the steering wheel off the shaft.

NOTE: It may be necessary to use a jaw-type puller to

remove the steering wheel from the steering shaft.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT hit the steering shaft with a

hammer. This could damage the steering valve com­
ponents.

Installing the Steering Wheel

1. Use the steering wheel to put the rear wheels in the

straight ahead position. Figure 15
2. Slide the steering wheel onto the steering shaft. 1. Steering wheel 4. Screw
2. Jam nut 5. Foam seal
3. Secure the steering wheel in place with the jam nut 3. Cap
(Fig. 10). Tighten the nut to 20 to 26 ft-lb.

4. Install cap to steering wheel with screw.

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 Rear Axle Bushing Service (2WD Units)
The rear axle must be held in place snugly by the axle 5. Use a drift punch and hammer to drive both bushings
pin. Excessive movement of the axle, which is charac- (Item 4) out of the axle pivot tube. Clean the inside of
terized by erratic steering, usually indicates worn bush- the axle pivot tube to remove dirt and foreign material.
ings. To correct the problem, replace the bushings.
6. Apply grease to the inside and outside of the new
1. Disconnect the hydraulic hoses from the steering bushing. Use an arbor press to install the bushings into
cylinder. Put caps or plugs on all the fittings and hoses the top and bottom of the axle pivot tube. Bushings must
to prevent contamination. be flush with the axle tube.

NOTE: To ease reassembly, tag each of the hoses to 7. Wipe the rear axle pin with a rag to remove dirt and
show their correct position on the steering cylinder. grease. Inspect the pin for wear or damage and replace
as necessary.
2. Remove the nut (Fig. 16, Item 9) from the end of the
rear axle pin. Remove the two (2) cap screws (Item 2) 8. Mount the axle to the frame with the axle pin. The
securing the axle pin to the frame. washer(s) (Item 45) must be positioned between the
front end of the pivot tube and the frame (see the NOTE
3. Jack up the frame (just ahead of the rear wheels) until after step 4). Secure the axle pin in place with the two
pressure is taken off the axle pin. Support the machine (2) cap screws (Item 2). Install the washer (Item 8) and
with jack stands to prevent it from falling. nut (Item 9).

4. Pull the axle pin out. This will release the rear axle 9. Remove the jackstands and lower the machine to the
and washer(s) from the frame. Carefully pull the entire floor.
axle and wheel assembly out from under the machine.
10. Install the hydraulic hoses to the steering cylinder.
NOTE: A varying number of washers (Item 45) may have
been installed between the axle pivot tube and frame 11. Lubricate the rear axle bushings through the grease
during manufacture. Make sure the same number of fitting on the rear axle.
washers are installed during reassembly.

Steering Pivot Bushing Service (2WD Units)

The steering pivot (Fig. 16, Item 38) must fit snugly onto 4. Use a drift punch and hammer to drive both bushings
the mounting pin. Excessive movement of the steering (Item 41) out of the steering pivot. Clean the inside of
pivot may indicate worn bushings or tie rod ball joints. the steering pivot tube to remove dirt and foreign mate-
rial. Also clean the mounting pin on the bottom of the
1. Remove the lock nut (Item 37) and cap screw rear axle.
(Item 11) securing the steering cylinder rod end to the
steering pivot (Fig. 16). 5. Apply grease to the inside and outside of the new
bushings. Use an arbor press to install the bushings into
2. Remove two (2) nuts (Item 43) to disconnect the tie the top and bottom of the steering pivot tube. Bushings
rod end (Item 39) from the spindle arm (Item 1, 33). must be flush with the end of the tube.
Inspect all tie rod end ball joints for wear or damage and
replace as necessary. 6. Slide the steering pivot onto the mounting pin. Secure
the plate in place with the thrust washer, washer and
3. Remove the retaining ring (Item 12), washer (Item 17) retaining ring.
and thrust washer (Item 18). Slide the steering pivot off
of the mounting pin on the bottom of the axle.

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 7. Connect the tie rod end to the spindle bracket with 8. Install the lock nut and cap screw to secure the
one (1) nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 25 - 33 ft-lb. steering cylinder rod end to the steering pivot. Tighten
Install the jam nut and tighten against the other nut to the nut to 130 to 150 ft-lb.
secure tie rod end.
9. Lubricate the bushings through the grease fitting on
the steering pivot.

Figure 16

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 Rear Wheel Spindle Bushing Service (2WD Units)
The rear wheel spindles must fit snugly in the rear axle. 7. Apply grease to the inside and outside of the new
Excessive movement of the spindle in the axle indicates bushings. Use an arbor press to install the bushings into
that the bushings are probably worn and must be re- the top and bottom of the axle tube. The bushings must
placed. be flush with ends of the axle tube.

1. Disconnect the hydraulic hoses from the steering 8. Wipe the spindle shaft with a rag to remove any dirt
cylinder. Put caps or plugs on all the fittings and hoses and grease. Inspect the spindles for wear and replace
to prevent contamination. as necessary.

NOTE: To ease reassembly, tag each of the hoses to 9. Install the thrust bushing (Item 34) onto the spindle
show their correct position on the steering cylinder. shaft and push the shaft through the axle tube. Hold the
wheel and spindle shaft assembly in place and install
2. Remove nut (Fig. 16, Item 9) and washer (Item 8) the thrust washer (Item 18), washer (Item 17) and
from end of rear axle pin. Remove the two (2) cap retaining ring (Item 12) onto the end of the spindle shaft.
screws (Item 2) securing the axle pin to the frame.
10. Connect the tie rod end to the spindle bracket with
3. Jack up the frame (just ahead of the rear wheels) until one (1) nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 25 - 33 ft-lb.
pressure is taken off the axle pin. Support the machine Install the jam nut and tighten against the other nut to
with jack stands to prevent it from falling. secure tie rod end.

4. Pull the axle pin out. This will release the rear axle 11. Mount the axle to the frame with the axle pin. The
and washer(s) from the frame. Carefully pull the entire washer(s) (Item 45) must be positioned between the
axle and wheel assembly out from under the machine. front end of the pivot tube and the frame (see the NOTE
after step 4). Secure the axle pin in place with the two
NOTE: A varying number of washers (Item 45) may have (2) cap screws (Item 2). Install the washer (Item 8) and
been installed between the axle pivot tube and frame nut (Item 9).
during manufacture. Make sure the same number of
washers are installed during reassembly. 12. Remove the jackstands and lower the machine to
the shop floor.
5. Remove the retaining ring (Item 12) and washers
(Item 17, 18) that secure the wheel spindle (Item 1, 33) 13. Install the hydraulic hoses to the steering cylinder.
into the axle tube. Slide the spindle and wheel assembly
out of the axle tube to expose the bushings. 14. Lubricate the steering spindle and rear axle pivot.

6. Use a punch and hammer to drive both bushings

(Item 4) out of the axle tube. Clean the inside of the axle
tube to remove any dirt and foreign material.

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 Figure 17

Front Wheel Bearing Service

See Axle Shaft Disassembly and Wheel Bearing Serv-
ice in the Repairs section of Chapter 6 - Differential.

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 Rear Wheel Bearing Service (2WD Units)
Disassemble, clean, repack and adjust the rear wheel wear, pitting or other noticeable damage. Replace worn
bearings after each 500 hours of operation or once a or damaged parts.
year. Use No. 2 general purpose lithium base grease
containing E.P. additive. If operating conditions are ex- 6. If bearing cups were removed from the wheel hub,
tremely dusty and dirty, it may be necessary to perform press them into the hub until they seat against the
this maintenance more often. shoulder.

1. Jack up the rear of the machine until the tire is off the 7. Pack both bearings with grease. Install one bearing
floor. Support the machine with jack stands or blocks to into the cup on inboard side of the wheel hub. Lubricate
prevent it from falling. the inside of the new lip seal and press it into the wheel
hub.
2. Remove the dust cap from the end of the wheel
spindle (Fig. 18). IMPORTANT: The lip seal must be pressed in so it is
flush with the end of the hub. The lip of the seal must
3. Remove the cotter pin, slotted nut, and washer. Slide be toward the bearing.
the wheel off spindle shaft.
8. Pack inside of wheel hub with some grease (not full).
4. Pull the seal out of the wheel hub. Install remaining bearing into the bearing cup.

5. Remove the bearings from both sides of the wheel 9. Slide the wheel onto the spindle shaft and secure it
hub. Clean the bearings in solvent. Make sure the in place with the flat washer and slotted nut. DO NOT
bearings are in good operating condition. Clean the tighten the nut or install the cotter pin.
inside of the wheel hub. Check the bearing cups for
10. Adjust preload on the wheel bearings.

2
10
7
1
9
8
6
4
5
11
12

Figure 18

1. Wheel hub 5. Slotted nut 9. Bearing cup

2. Wheel spindle 6. Washer 10. Stud
3. Dust cap 7. Seal 11. Wheel
4. Cotter pin 8. Bearing cone 12. Wheel nut

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 Adjusting Rear Wheel Bearings

1. Remove dust cap from end of wheel spindle. Also

remove cotter pin retaining slotted nut in place (Fig. 18).

2. Rotate the wheel by hand and tighten the slotted nut 1

(Fig. 19) until the bearing binds SLIGHTLY. Then,
loosen the nut until the nearest slot and hole in the
spindle line up. Reinstall the cotter pin to retain the
slotted nut in place. NOTE: The correct end play of the
adjusted assembly is .002 -. 005 inches.

3. Remove jack stands or blocks and lower machine to

floor.

4. Put a coating of grease on the inside of the dust cap.

Install dust cap on the end of the wheel spindle (Fig. 18). Figure 19

1. Cotter pin and slotted nut

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 Steering Cylinder Removal and Installation
1. Engage the parking brakes, lower the cutting units to
the ground, turn the engine OFF and remove the key
from the ignition switch.

2. Disconnect the hydraulic hoses from the steering

cylinder. Put caps or plugs on all the fittings and hoses
to prevent contamination.

NOTE: To ease reassembly, tag each of the hoses to

show their correct position on the steering cylinder.

3. Remove the lock nut and cap screw securing the rod
end of the cylinder to the steering pivot.

4. Remove the lock nut, cap screw and spacer securing

the barrel end of the cylinder to the rear axle.

5. Remove the cylinder.

6. Reverse steps 2 - 5 to install the steering cylinder.

Tighten the cap screw and nut securing the rod end of
the cylinder to the steering pivot to 130 - 150 ft-lb.

7. After installing the cylinder, bleed the hydraulic

system.

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 Steering Cylinder Service
IMPORTANT: To prevent damage to rod or barrel, 8. Remove all seals and O-rings (Item 2).
clamp vise on pivot ends only. DO NOT clamp
against smooth rod surface. 9. Wash parts in a safe solvent. Dry parts with com-
pressed air. DO NOT wipe them dry with a cloth or paper
1. After removing the cylinder, pump oil out of cylinder as lint and dirt may remain.
into a drain pan by SLOWLY moving piston in and out
of cylinder bore. 10. Carefully inspect internal surface of barrel for dam-
age (deep scratches, out-of-round, etc.). Replace entire
2. Plug the ports and clean the outside of the cylinder. cylinder if barrel is damaged. Inspect head, rod, and
piston for evidence of excessive scoring, pitting, or
3. Mount cylinder in a vise so rod end of cylinder is tilted wear. Replace any damaged parts.
up slightly. Do not close the vise so firmly that the
cylinder barrel could become distorted. 11. Put a light coating of oil on all new seals, and O-rings.
Install new seals and O-rings.
4. Use a spanner wrench to unscrew (counterclockwise)
head (Fig. 21, Item 2) from barrel (Item 1). 12. Install head onto piston rod.

5. Grasp large end of piston rod (Item 4) and use a 13. Install piston onto rod and tighten hex nut to 30 -
twisting and pulling motion to carefully extract piston, 34 ft-lb.
rod, and head from cylinder tube.
14. Put a light coating of oil on all cylinder parts.
6. Securely mount piston, rod, and head into vise so
large nut (Item 6) is easily accessible for removal. 15. Slide piston rod assembly into cylinder tube.
Remove nut by turning it counterclockwise.
16. Install head into tube and tighten by hand to properly
7. Remove piston (Item 5). Slide head off of piston rod. engage threads. Tighten head with a spanner wrench.

Figure 21

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 Brake Shoe Replacement

CAUTION CAUTION
The brake linings contain asbestos fibers. Wear a face shield when removing brake re­
Breathing dust containing asbestos fibers turn spring (Fig. 22). The spring is under ten­
may be hazardous to your health and may sion and could possibly slip during removal.
cause serious respiratory or other bodily
harm. When servicing wheel brake parts, do
4. Remove brake lever retainers (cotter pins) with a slip
not create dust by grinding, sanding or filing
joint pliers.
brake linings or by cleaning wheel brake parts
with a dry brush or compressed air. (Use a
5. Pull strut and lever from brake shoes. Remove brake
water dampened cloth.) Use proper protective
shoes by sliding them both on one motion straight down
equipment when working with asbestos
off cast-iron spider.
materials.
6. Remove adjusting screw spring and star wheel as-
1. Loosen wheel lug nuts. Jack up machine until front sembly.
wheel is off of floor. Use jackstands to prevent machine
from falling accidentally. Remove wheel lug nuts and 7. Install new brake shoes (reverse steps 2 - 7) Install
slide wheel and tire assembly off of studs. new brake drum if it is severely scored.

2. Remove brake drum. If drum will not come off easily, 8. Install wheel and tire assembly on studs with five (5)
brake shoes may have to be retracted with star nut (see wheel nuts. Tighten wheel lug nuts. Remove jack stands
Brake Adjustment). or blocking and lower machine to the floor. Tighten
wheel lug nuts to a torque of 45 - 55 ft-lb.
3. Remove brake shoe return spring (Fig. 22) by prying
the end of the spring up and over its retaining boss. Use 9. Adjust brakes (see Brake Adjustment).
a brake spring pliers or flat blade screwdriver.

1
5

Figure 22

1. Return spring 3. Strut and lever 5. Star wheel assembly

2. Cotter pins 4. Adjusting screw spring

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 Steering Valve Removal and Installation
1. Engage the parking brakes, lower the cutting units to
the ground, turn the engine OFF and remove the key
from the ignition switch.

2. Remove the cutting unit or other implement.

3. Remove the steering wheel.

4. Remove the six (6) self-tapping screws securing the

steering tower cover (Fig. 23A). Slide the steering tower
cover off of steering column and parking brake rod.

5. Clean outside of the steering valve and the area

around the hydraulic fittings. Disconnect hydraulic
hoses from steering valve. Put caps or plugs on all
fittings and hoses to prevent contamination.

NOTE: To ease reassembly, tag each hose and tube line

to show their correct position on the steering valve.

6. Remove two (2) capscrews to remove clamp half Figure 23A

securing steering column to column support (Fig. 23B).
1. Steering column cover 3. Self tapping screws
7. Remove four (4) locknuts and flat washers securing 2. Steering column 4. Parking brake knob
steering valve to mounting bracket.

8. Carefully move hydraulic lines to the side and pull

steering valve and column out through bottom of steer-
ing tower.

9. Reverse steps 2 - 8 to install the steering valve.

Figure 23B

1. Column support 4. Steering column

2. Clamp half 5. Valve
3. Mounting bracket 6. Pivot plate

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 Steering Valve Service
Before Disassembly

When disassembling any of the parts, use a clean work

bench. Wash all parts in solvent and dry them with
compressed air. DO NOT wipe them dry with a cloth of
paper as lint and dirt may remain. Keep each part
separate to prevent nicks and burrs.

Components of the steering valve are stacked on four

bolts and held in alignment with alignment pins. The
alignment pins are designed to be a slip fit into the
components. Use the minimum force necessary and
maximum care when separating or assembling the com-
ponents.

The steering valve has several components that are of

brazed laminate construction. These components have
plates and parts bonded together permanently to form
an integral component that cannot be disassembled.
Disassemble the steering valve only to the extent shown
in this book.

IMPORTANT: Do not force or abuse closely fitted

parts, or you may damage them.

Components of the steering valve with alignment

grooves, must be assembled so that their alignment
grooves are positioned as illustrated for the valve to Figure 24
function correctly (Fig. 24).

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 Disassembly of Steering Valve

1. To avoid distorting or damaging the steering valve, do

not clamp it directly into a vise. Clamp a service assem-
bly fixture securely in a vise (Fig. 25). Put the steering
valve, input shaft first, into the service assembly fixture.
Attache the steering valve to the fixture with four (4)
5/16-24 UNF nuts (Fig. 26).

NOTE: Before beginning the disassembly of the steer-

ing valve, study the relative positions of the alignment
grooves on the side of the components in the assembly.
The relative alignment groove positions on the compo- Figure 25
nents must be maintained at reassembly (Fig. 24).

Figure 26

2. Use a slot type screwdriver or screwdriver socket to

loosen the plug assembly one turn counterclockwise.
(Fig. 27). Do not remove the plug assembly.

Figure 27

3. Remove the four nuts from the port cover assembly.

Be careful not to damage the ports (Fig. 28).

IMPORTANT: The nuts are a special self-locking

type. Do not substitute any other type.

Figure 28

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 4. Grasp the port cover assembly (four plates bonded
together) and lift it from the unit. Remove and discard
the four o-rings and seal ring (Fig. 29).

Figure 29

5. Remove the loosened plug and o-ring assembly from

the port cover. Be ready to catch the steel check ball as
it falls from its cavity (Fig. 30). Discard the o-ring.

6. Inspect the port cover for port fitting sealing surface

scratches and thread damage. Replace the port cover
if it is damaged.

NOTE: Be prepared to catch three springs which may

become disengaged when removing the port manifold.

Figure 30
7. Carefully lift the port manifold (3 plates bonded to-
gether) from the unit (Fig. 31).

8. Remove the three springs from the port manifold.

NOTE: The unit has two different length spring sets. The
set you have just removed from the port manifold are
3/4 in. (19 mm) long. Keep this set of three springs
separate from the next set of three springs to be re-
moved.

9. Inspect the springs for bent or distorted coils. If a

spring is broken or deformed, all six springs in the unit
should be replaced.
Figure 31
10. Inspect the ground surfaces of the port manifold. You
should notice a “normal” polished pattern due to the
rotation of the valve plate and hex drive assembly. All
edges should be sharp and free of nicks and burrs. The
surfaces of the port manifold should be free of scratches
or scoring.

NOTE: Scoring is indicated by fine scratches or

grooves. If these scratches can be detected by feel,
finger nail, or lead pencil, the manifold should be re-
placed.

IMPORTANT: Many components in the unit have

finely ground surfaces. Be careful not nick or
scratch these surfaces.
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 11. Remove the valve ring (Fig. 32). Remove and dis-
card the two seal rings (Fig. 33). The valve ring should
be free of nicks and scoring.

Figure 32

Figure 33

12. Remove the valve plate by lifting it from the isolation

manifold (Fig. 34).

13. Inspect the slot edges and ground surfaces. If the

valve plate shows nicks or scoring or the edges are not
sharp, it must be replaced.

NOTE: The valve ring and valve plate are a matched set
and must be replaced as a set.

Figure 34

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 14. Remove three springs from the isolation manifold
pockets (Fig. 35).

NOTE: The unit has two different length spring sets. the
set you have just removed from the isolation manifold is
1/2 in. (13 mm) long. Keep this spring set separate from
the set removed from the port manifold.

Figure 35

15. Inspect the springs for bent or distorted coils. If a

spring is broken or deformed, all six springs in the unit
must be replaced (Fig. 36).

Figure 36

16. Remove the hex drive assembly from the drive link
(Fig. 37).

17. The pin in the hex drive assembly should not show
wear and must be firmly pressed in place. the sides of
the hex and slot should not have grooves or scoring. if
the hex drive assembly shows signs of this type of wear,
it must be replaced.

Figure 37

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 18. Remove the two alignment pins that align the port
manifold, valve ring and isolation manifold (Fig. 38).

Figure 38

19. Remove the isolation manifold (four plates bonded

together) (Fig. 39).

20. Inspect the ground surfaces of the isolation mani-

fold. You should notice a “normal” polished pattern due
to the rotation of the valve plate, and on the opposite
side a “normal” polished pattern due to the action of the
commutator cover and commutator seal. The holes and
edges should be free of nicks. The manifold surfaces
should be free of nicks or scoring. If the manifold has
developed any of these conditions, it must be replaced.

Figure 39

21. Remove the two isolation manifold-metering ring

alignment pins (Fig. 40).

Figure 40

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 22. Remove the drive link from the unit (Fig. 41).

23. Inspect each end of the drive link. the four crowned
contact surfaces should not be worn or scored. Replace
if wear or scoring is evident.

Figure 41

24. Remove the metering ring and discard the two seal
rings (Fig. 42). If the metering ring bore is scored, it
should be replaced.

Figure 42

25. The “metering package” components are held to-

gether with eleven hex socket head screws. Lift the
metering package from the assembly, and put it on a
clean surface (Fig. 43).

IMPORTANT: Do not clamp the metering package in

a vise, as this could damage the components.

Figure 43

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 26. Remove and discard the commutator seal from the
commutator cover (Fig. 44).

Figure 44

27. Remove the eleven hex socket head screws, that

hold the metering package together (Fig. 45). Use a
3/32 in. allen wrench. Inspect the screws for thread and
socket damage and replace as necessary.

Figure 45

28. Lift the commutator cover from the metering pack-

age (Fig. 46).

29. Inspect the ground surfaces of the commutator

cover. You should notice a “normal” polished pattern due
to the rotation of the commutator. If the cover has nicks,
burrs, or scoring, it must be replaced.

Figure 46

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 30. Remove the commutator ring (Fig. 47). Inspect for
cracks, burrs and scoring.

IMPORTANT: Handle the commutator ring with care,

as it is easily broken.

Figure 47

31. Remove the commutator from the rotor (Fig. 48).

IMPORTANT: To prevent damage, DO NOT use a

screwdriver to remove the commutator. Use a wood
dowel if necessary.

32. The commutator is made up of two round plates,

pinned and bonded together as a permanent assembly
that cannot be disassembled. Inspect the ground sur-
faces of the commutator. The holes and edges should
be free of nicks. The ground surfaces should be free of
scoring. The edges should be sharp.
Figure 48
NOTE: The commutator and commutator ring are a
matched set. If either is worn or damaged, the set must
be replaced.

IMPORTANT: Five alignment pins connect the com­

mutator to the rotor with a slip fit. Care and minimum
force should be used to separate the two compo­
nents.

33. Remove the five alignment pins (Fig. 49).

Figure 49

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 34. Remove the drive link spacer (Fig. 50). Replace it if
it grooved or worn.

35. With the rotor set lying on the drive plate, the rotor
should rotate and orbit freely within the stator. The
commutator side of the stator face must be free of
grooves or scoring.

NOTE: the rotor and stator are a matched set. You must
replace them as a matched set, if either is worn or
damaged.

Figure 50

36. Check the rotor lobe “tip” to stator lobe “tip” clear-
ance, with a feeler gauge (Fig. 51). The rotor lobe,
directly across from the rotor lobe tip being measured
(see pointer in Fig. 51) must be centered between stator
lobes during the measurement. A rotor and stator that
exceeds the maximum allowable “tip” clearance, must
be replaced.

Max. rotor to stator “tip” clearance: 0.003 in. (0.08 mm)

37. Remove the rotor set from the drive plate. The drive
plate side of the rotor set also must be free of grooves
or scoring. Figure 51

NOTE: Handle the rotor set carefully to avoid nicks and

scratches.

38. The rotor side of the drive plate (Fig. 52) should show
the “normal” spiral pattern due to rotor movement.

Figure 52

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 39. Inspect the thrust bearing side of the drive plate
(Fig. 53) for brinelling (dents) or spalling (flaking). The
flat sides of the input shaft engagement hole should not
be grooved or worn. If any of these conditions in steps
38 and 39 are present, the drive plate must be replaced.

Figure 53

40.Remove the face seal, back-up ring, and face seal

spacer from the upper cover plate (Fig. 54). Discard the
face seal and back-up ring. Keep the metal spacer.

Figure 54

41. Remove the thrust bearing and bearing spacer from

the upper cover plate (Fig. 55).

42. Inspect the thrust bearing for brinelling (dents) or

spalling (flaking), if either exists, or if one or more of the
rolls are lost or broken, replace the bearing assembly.
Replace the seal spacer or bearing spacer if worn or
broken.

Figure 55

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 43. Remove the upper cover plate (four plates bonded
together) (Fig. 56). Inspect the upper cover plate. You
should notice some polishing due to the action of the
seal. The plate should be free of brinelling (dents) or
spalling (flaking). If it is damaged, the upper cover plate
must be replaced.

Figure 56

44. Slide the seal from the jacket tube (Fig. 57). If the
seal is worn or damaged, it must be replaced.

Figure 57

45. Remove the input shaft and snap ring, sliding it out
of the upper cover end of the assembly (Fig. 58).

46. Inspect the input shaft serrations, threads and flats

for grooves, wear, or damage.

Figure 58

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 47. Remove the washer and upper cover & jacket
(Fig. 59).

NOTE: The retaining plate and upper cover & jacket are
a matched set. If either part is worn or damaged, both
must be replaced.

Figure 59

48. Inspect the bushing at the top of the cover & jacket
for wear or damage. If bushing replacement is neces-
sary. put the upper cover & jacket in a vise. Use a pliers
or punch to straighten the crimped areas on the bushing
end of the jacket tube (Fig. 60).

IMPORTANT: Hold the steering tube in a soft-jaw

vise. Be careful not to damage the steering tube.

Figure 60

49. Use a bearing puller to remove the bushing (Fig. 61).

Figure 61

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 50. Remove the nuts holding the four bolts to the fixture,
and remove the bolts (Fig. 62). Check the bolt threads
for wear or damage.

Figure 62

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 Assembly of Steering Valve

Replace all seals and o-rings with new ones. Make sure
the seals and o-rings remain seated correctly when
components are assembled.

Before assembling the steering valve, wash all parts in

clean solvent. Dry the parts with compressed air. DO
NOT wipe them dry with a cloth or paper as lint and dirt
may remain.

1. Put the four bolts into the fixture with the shortest
threaded end of the bolts through the fixture holes
(Fig. 63). Secure the bolts to the fixture with four 5/16-24
UNF nuts. Tighten the nuts to secure the assembly to Figure 63
the fixture, but loose enough to turn the bolts and
facilitate stacking of components.

2. If the bushing was removed from the upper cover and

jacket for replacement, press a new bushing into the
upper end of the jacket tube with the recessed end of
the bushing toward the jacket tube. Use an arbor press
or the wood handle end of a hammer (Fig. 64). Push the
bushing down until it is 0.1 in. (2.5 mm) below the top of
the jacket tube. Use a pliers or punch to “crimp” the end
of the jacket tube over the bushing in two places ap-
proximately 90o away from the original crimped areas
(Fig. 65). Put clean multi-purpose grease on the inside
of the bushing.
Figure 64

Figure 65

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 3. Put the upper cover and jacket on the four bolts with
the jacket tube pointing down through the hole in fixture
(Fig. 66). Make sure the square shoulder of the bolts
engage the square holes in the upper cover.

4. Apply a small amount of multi-purpose grease to the

recessed face of the retainer plate and washer. Put the
retainer plate into the upper cover & jacket with the
recessed retainer face out. Put the washer against the
recessed face of the retainer plate.

Figure 66

5. Install the snap ring onto the input shaft if it was

removed (Fig. 67).

Figure 67

6. Slide the input shaft into the upper cover end of the
upper cover & jacket and through the bushing until the
retaining ring bottoms against the washer. Make sure
the washer bottoms against the retainer plate recessed
face and the retainer plate seats against the end of the
jacket tube (Fig. 68).

Figure 68

7. Install the upper cover plate over the four bolts with
the highly polished surface up (Fig. 69).

IMPORTANT: The alignment grooves must be all on

one side of the steering valve for proper operation.

Figure 69

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 8. Apply clean multi-purpose grease to the face of the
upper cover plate, input shaft and face seal (Fig. 70).

Figure 70

9. Assemble the seal back-up ring and face seal onto

the seal spacer (Fig. 71).

Figure 71

10. Install the face seal, back-up ring and spacer assem-
bly over the end of the input shaft and onto the upper
cover plate (Fig. 72).

Figure 72

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 11. Put the drive plate on a clean lint-free surface with
the eleven tapped holes facing up. Put the rotor set on
top of the drive plate with the five pin holes facing up.
Rotate the stator until the eleven hex socket head screw
relief slots are aligned with the tapped holes in the drive
plate (Fig. 73).

Figure 73

12. Apply a small amount of clean multi-purpose grease

to the spacer and insert it into the drive slot in the rotor
(Fig. 74). The grease will aid in retaining the spacer
during other assembly procedures.

Figure 74

13. Put the commutator on top of the rotor. Be sure the

correct surface (Fig. 75) is towards the rotor.

Figure 75

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 14. Align the five holes and press the five alignment pins
in place (Fig. 76).

IMPORTANT: Make sure the five alignment pins are

pressed below the surface of the commutator.

Figure 76

15. Put a few drops of oil into each recess in the

commutator (Fig. 77).

Figure 77

16. Put the commutator ring (either side up) on top of

the stator (Fig. 78). Align the commutator ring screw
recesses with the stator screw slots.

Figure 78

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 17. Put the commutator cover on top of the commutator
ring with the flat surface towards the commutator (Fig.
79). Align the screw holes in the cover, with the screw
holes in the drive plate.

Figure 79

18. Screw the eleven hex socket head cap screws

loosely into the metering package (Fig. 80).

NOTE: The commutator ring must be concentric with the

drive plate within 0.005 in. (0.127 mm) total indicator
reading AFTER tightening the eleven hex socket head
cap screws. The next two procedures are a method of
achieving the concentricity.

Figure 80

19. Put the metering ring on a hard flat surface. Put the
assembled metering package into the metering ring with
the commutator cover down, so the drive plate is par-
tially out of the metering ring (Fig. 81). (A suitable wood
block under the metering package will hold it in this
position.) Put one piece of 0.007 in. (0.18 mm) shim
stock approximately 0.5 in. (12 mm) wide and 1.5 in.
(38 mm) long between the metering ring and drive plate
in three places approximately equal distance around the
outside diameter of the drive plate.

Figure 81

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 20. Put another piece of the 0.007 in. (0.18 mm) shim
stock between the drive plate and each of the three
pieces of shim stock already in place. Lift the metering
ring and metering package and remove the wood block.
Push the metering package and shims into the metering
ring until the drive plate and shims are at least flush with
the metering ring (Fig. 82).

Figure 82

21. Reverse the metering ring and metering package as

a unit on a flat surface. Push down on the metering
package until the drive plate is on the flat surface. Be
sure the cap screws are loose enough to allow the
commutator ring and drive plate to align themselves
concentrically in the metering ring bore. Gradually
tighten the eleven cap screws, following the sequence
shown in Figure 83 at least twice until a final torque of
11 - 13 in-lb (1.24 - 1.47 Nm) is reached (Fig. 83 and
84). Remove the metering package and shims from the
metering ring. Discard the shims.
Figure 83

CAUTION
Use care and eye protection when adding and
removing shims from the metering ring as the
shims will be under spring tension and could
fly into the air and cause injury.

Figure 84

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 22. Insert the LARGE tang of the drive link into the slot
in the rotor (Fig. 85).

IMPORTANT: An incorrect (reversed) assembly of

the drive link will prevent the assembly of the hex
drive.

Figure 85

23. Grasp the drive link and rotate the metering package
by hand to make sure the parts do not bind (Fig. 86).
The rotor should orbit inside the stator. If they bind,
disassemble the metering package, correct the cause
and repeat the assembly and concentricity procedures.

Figure 86

24. Apply clean multi-purpose grease to the metering

ring seal ring. Put the seal ring into position in the
metering ring seal groove opposite to the end with the
alignment pin holes. Stack the metering ring into place,
over the four bolts, with the seal ring towards the upper
cover plate. Make sure an alignment pin hole on the
metering ring is in line with and on the same side as the
alignment groove on the side of the upper cover plate
(Fig. 87). This is required so the other components can
be aligned correctly.

IMPORTANT: Make sure the seal ring does not slip Figure 87
from position.

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 25. Put the bearing spacer onto the face of the upper
cover plate (Fig. 88).

Figure 88

26. Lightly grease the roller thrust bearing and put it on

the upper cover plate, inside the bearing spacer
(Fig. 89).

Figure 89

27. Inspect the exposed face of the drive plate making

sure it is clean and lint free. Apply a small amount of
clean multi-purpose grease on the drive plate (Fig. 90).

Figure 90

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 28. Put the metering package, drive plate side first, into
the metering ring (Fig. 91). Revolve the input shaft or
metering package until the hole in the drive plate en-
gages the end of the input shaft and the drive plate is
seated on the thrust bearing. When properly seated, the
metering package will be below the surface of the
metering ring.

Figure 91

29. Apply clean multi-purpose grease on the new com-

mutator seal and put it into the commutator cover seal
groove (Fig. 92). The rubber portion (the softer side) of
the seal with the yellow mark must be put into the seal
groove.

Figure 92

30. Apply clean multi-purpose grease to the metering

ring seal ring. Put the seal ring into the metering ring
seal ring groove (Fig. 93).

Figure 93

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 31. Put two alignment pins into the metering ring
(Fig. 94).

Figure 94

32. Stack the isolation manifold (4 plates bonded to-

gether) onto the metering ring, aligning the grooves on
the side of the manifold with the grooves on the side of
the upper cover plate (Fig. 95). Align the alignment pin
holes with the alignment pins in the metering ring. The
isolation manifold surface without the recessed slots
must be toward the metering ring.

Figure 95

33. Install two alignment pins into the isolation manifold

(Fig. 96).

Figure 96

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 34. Put the three 1/2 in. (13 mm) springs into the spring
pockets of the isolation manifold (Fig. 97).

NOTE: Two different length springs are used in the unit.

Be sure to use the 1/2 in. (13 mm) length springs during
this part of the assembly.

Figure 97

35. Apply clean grease to a seal ring and put it in the

valve ring recess that will face down when installed.
Install the valve ring over the bolts and alignment pins
with the seal ring facing the isolation manifold (Fig. 98).

IMPORTANT: Be sure the seal ring is seated cor­

rectly after the valve ring is assembled.

Figure 98

36. Put the hex drive assembly, pin side up, through the
hole in the isolation manifold (Fig. 99). the slot in the hex
drive must be engaged with the SMALL tang of the drive
link. Turn the input shaft to assist the engagement.

NOTE: If the hex drive does not readily assemble on the

drive link, the drive link was assembled incorrectly (See
step 22 of this procedure.)

Figure 99

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 37. To install the valve plate correctly, first carefully study
Figures 93 and 94 for positioning of the valve plate
spring slots and other cavities in relation to the spring
and spring recesses on the isolation manifold. Be sure
to use the alignment grooves on the side of the isolation
manifold for orientation.

Put the valve plate with the surface that reads “shaft
side” down over the hex drive assembly. Align the three
spring slots centrally over the three springs installed in
the spring recesses of the isolation manifold. The valve
plate spring slot with the small cavity and the words “port
side” centrally below it (Fig. 100), must be placed over
the spring and spring recess in the isolation manifold at
the top (12 o’clock position) as shown (Fig. 100 and
101). Adjust the valve plate position radially to centralize Figure 100
the spring slots over the springs and the spring recesses
in the isolation manifold.

IMPORTANT: The unit will not function if the valve

plate is not positioned on the isolation manifold
exactly as shown in Figure 101. If the valve plate
spring slots, isolation manifold spring recesses and
springs are not centrally aligned in this step, the
springs could be damaged when the port manifold
is installed onto the assembly.

Figure 101

38. Apply clean multi-purpose grease to the valve ring

seal ring. Install the seal ring in the valve ring (Fig. 102).

Figure 102

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 39. Put the port manifold (three plates bonded together),
valve side up, in a clean surface. Install three 3/4 in.
springs into the spring pockets (Fig. 103).

Figure 103

40. Apply a few drops of oil to the valve plate. Align the
grooves on the side of the port manifold with the grooves
on the side of the isolation manifold and assemble the
port manifold with the springs toward the valve plate
(Fig. 104). Be careful not to pinch a spring during
installation. The two alignment pins in the valve plate
will engage the holes in the port manifold. The pin on
the hex drive assembly must engage the center hole in
the port manifold.

Figure 104

41. Install a new o-ring on the plug. Insert the check ball
hole in the port cover. Be sure the ball is seated in the
bottom of the check ball hole. Turn the plug assembly
into the port cover until the ball is retained (Fig. 105).

Figure 105

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 42. Apply clean multi-purpose grease to the four o-rings
and seal ring. Put the new o-rings and seal ring into their
proper location in the port cover (Fig. 106).

Figure 106

43. Align a groove on the side of the port cover with the
grooves on the side of the port manifold and put the port
cover into position (Fig. 107).

Figure 107

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 44. Install the lock nuts onto the bolts. Tighten each nut
gradually until resistance is felt (Fig. 108). Tighten to a
torque of 20 - 24 ft-lb (27 - 33 Nm) in the sequence
shown (Fig. 109).

Figure 108

Figure 109

45. Tighten the plug to a torque of 8 - 12 ft-lb (11 - 16 Nm)

(Fig. 110).

Figure 110

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 46. Apply a small amount of clean multi-purpose grease
on the lip of the seal. Install the seal onto the jacket tube
and input shaft (Fig. 111).

47. Make a final inspection of the relative groove posi-

tions on the side of the unit (Fig. 24). Components of the
steering valve with alignment grooves, must be assem-
bled so that their alignment grooves are positioned as
illustrated for the valve to function correctly (Fig. 24).
Disassemble and correct the assembly if necessary.

48. Remove the four nuts holding the unit to the fixture
and remove the unit (Fig. 112). Figure 111

Figure 112

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 Chapter 9

Transmission Coupler and PTO

Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 REPAIRS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Drive Coupling Removal and Installation. . . . . . . 7
Engine to Transmission Coupler . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Engine Pulley Yoke Bearing Replacement . . . . . 8
PTO System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 PTO Brake Replacement. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 PTO Belt Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Checking Drive Coupling Alignment . . . . . . . . . . 4 Removing PTO Control Lever and Linkage. . . . 10
Adjusting Drive Coupling Alignment . . . . . . . . . . 4 PTO Shaft and Bearing Service . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Correcting PTO Belt Slippage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 PTO Drive Shaft Removal and Installation . . . . 12
PTO Pulley and Engine Pulley Alignment . . . . . . 5 PTO Drive Shaft Universal Joint Replacement . 13
PTO Brake Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Installing the PTO Drive Shaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

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 Introduction
Engine to Transmission Coupler (Fig. 1) PTO lever fully forward to the ON position; this will start
the implement or cutting unit blades. Slowly pull the
Engine power is transmitted from the engine through a lever backward to the OFF position to stop the imple-
flexible coupling and drive link to the hydrostatic trans- ment’s operation. The only time the PTO lever should
mission. With this Toro design, there is no clutch used be in the ON position is when the implement or cutting
between the engine and the transmission. unit is down in the operating position and the operator
is in the seat.
The drive coupling consists of three main components:
a metal drive coupling (shaft), a rubber coupling bolted
to each end of the shaft, and the pump hub.
DANGER
PTO System (Fig. 1) Do not start the engine and engage the P.T.O.
lever when the P.T.O. shaft is not connected
The power take-off (PTO) system transmits power from to the gearbox on the cutting unit or other
the engine to the cutting deck or other implement at- implement. If the engine is started and the
tached to the from of the machine. P.T.O. shaft Is allowed to rotate, serious Injury
could result.
The PTO lever has two positions: ON (engage) and OFF
(disengage). To engage the PTO shaft, slowly push the

Figure 1

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 Troubleshooting

Engine to Transmission Coupler

Problem Possible Cause

Output shaft bearing failure. Lack of lubrication.

Output shaft out of alignment.

Excessive vibration of drive coupling. Drive coupling bent or deformed.

Loose fasteners.

Drive coupling out of alignment.

Flexible (rubber) couplings wear prematurely. Drive coupling bent or deformed.

Loose fasteners.

Drive coupling out of alignment.

Pump hub damaged. Drive coupling bent or deformed.

Loose fasteners.

Drive coupling out of alignment.

PTO System

Problem Possible Cause

Machine vibrates excessively. PTO shaft not properly aligned.

PTO drive shaft does not telescope. Worn bearings or U-joints.

Lack of lubrication to splines and tube.

Galling of U-joint journal cross-ends. Drive shaft RPM to high.

Lack of lubrication.

Abrasive corosion on PTO drive shaft. Extreme low angle operation.

Broken U-joint journal. Excessive shock loading to PTO shaft.

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 Adjustments

Checking Drive Coupling Alignment (Fig. 2)

When either the hydrostatic axle or the engine is re-
moved and after all parts are reinstalled, the alignment
of the drive coupling must be checked. In addition, any
excess vibration usually indicates misalignment of the
drive coupling. The drive coupling will be damaged
when misalignment is more than 1/8 inch (3 mm).

To check the alignment of the drive couplings, place the

square end of a ruler or scale against the face of the
drive pulley and the bottom of the coupling retainer).If
there is more than 1/8 inch (3 mm) between the ruler or
scale and the opposite coupling retainer, or the scale is
more than 1/8 inch (3 mm) higher than the bottom of the
coupling, an adjustment is required. To correct for a
misaligned drive coupling, proceed to “Adjusting Drive Figure 2
Coupling Alignment” which follows.

Adjusting Drive Coupling Alignment (Fig. 3, 4)

To correct drive coupling misalignment, first loosen the
axle support nuts at the rear of the floor plate).

A transmission that is too high at the drive coupling end

may be lowered by installing a 1/16 inch (1.6 mm)
spacer between the rear of the mounting pad and the
bottom of the frame. A transmission that is too low is
corrected by installing a 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) spacer
between the front of the mounting pad and the bottom
of the frame.

To install the spacers, remove the appropriate two cap

screws and loosen the other two. If the spacers must be
added to the front of the mounting pad, remove the front
cap screws and loosen the back ones. Do just the Figure 3
opposite to add spacers at the rear of the mounting
pads.

After adding the spacers, install the two cap screws and
tighten all of the cap screws to secure the axle in place.
Check the alignment again. Continue to check the align-
ment and add shims as required. When the alignment
is correct, tighten the axle support nuts. Tighten the rear
nut with the fingers until it contacts the frame; then
tighten the front nut securely. Secure the rear nut last.

Figure 4

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 Correcting PTO Drive Belt Slippage (Fig. 5)
If belt begins to slip because it has stretched or because
of worn linkage:

1. Unlatch and remove instrument cover.

2. Move PTO control lever to ON position.

3. Measure length of PTO spring between flat washers.

There should be a spring length of 3-3/16 inches
(81 mm).

4. To adjust, hold head of adjusting screw with wrench

(under PTO actuating arm) and turn locknut.

5. Move PTO lever to OFF position and install instru- Figure 5

ment cover.
1. 3-3/16 in. (81 mm) 3. Locknut
2. PTO actuating arm

PTO Pulley and Engine Pulley Alignment (Fig. 6, 7)

1. Lower the implement to the shop floor, turn the engine
off, remove the key from the ignition switch and engage
the parking brake.

2. Move the P.T.O. lever to the ON position to move the

pulley away from the brake. Remove the locknut holding
the brake onto the mounting pin, and slide the spacer,
brake and spring off of the pins.

3. Loosen the setscrews in the lock collars at the front

and back of the P.T.O. shaft. Using a punch and ham-
mer, loosen the collars by driving them in the opposite
direction of the normal shaft rotation. The P.T.O. shaft
and P.T.O. pulley assembly should now be free to slide.
Figure 6
4. Using a straight edge, line up the top of the engine
pulley, with the top of the P.T.O. pulley. When the top of
the pulleys are aligned, the bottom of the pulleys are
misaligned by three degrees. Move the P.T.O. pulley
until its top is in line with the top of the engine pulley.
Then lock the pivot shaft and pulley in place by tighten-
ing the lock collars in the normal direction of shaft
rotation. Check the alignment of the pulleys again to
assure that the alignment did not change when the
collars were tightened. If alignment is still correct,
tighten the lock collar setscrews.

5. Slide the spring onto the large brake mounting pin.

Then slide the brake onto the mounting pin and the small
locating pin.
Figure 7
6. Move P.T.O. lever to OFF and position brake in
grooves of pulley. Slide spacer onto mounting pin and
secure all parts in place with the locknut. Tighten locknut
until spacer contacts the brake.

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 PTO Brake Adjustment (Fig. 8)
1 . Lower the implement to the shop floor, turn the engine
off, remove the key from the ignition switch, and engage
the parking brake.

2. Move the P.T.O. lever to the ENGAGE position.

Loosen the adjusting locknut so that the brake is free to
move. Then move the P.T.O. lever to OFF and position
the brake in the grooves of the pulley.

3. Tighten the locknut until the spacer contacts the side

of the brake bracket.

Figure 8

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 Repairs

Drive Coupling Removal and Installation (Fig. 9)

Removing Drive Couplings

1. Lower the cutting unit to the shop floor, turn the engine
off, remove the key from the ignition switch and engage
the parking brake.

2. Raise the seat and secure it in that position.

3. Jack up the back end of the machine and support it

with jackstands to prevent it from falling accidentally.

4. Block the front and back of the traction unit’s drive

wheels to prevent the machine from rolling.

5. Remove the two cap screws, lock washers, flat wash-

ers and spacers securing the drive coupling assembly Figure 9
to the engine hub. Remove the two cap screws, flat
washers and locknuts securing the coupler to the trans-
mission hub. Slide the assembly out after the cap
screws have been removed.

6. If the drive coupling assembly must be disassembled,

separate the rubber couplings (Item 17) from the drive
coupling (Item 18) by removing the nuts, flatwashers
and cap screws.

Installing Drive Couplings

1. Assemble the rubber couplings and drive coupling

with the cap screws, flat washers and nuts.

2. Position the drive coupling assembly between the

engine hub and transmission hub; align the holes. Se-
cure the drive coupling to the hubs with cap screws, lock
washers, flat washers, and nuts. Tighten the cap screws
alternately and evenly to prevent distortion of the rubber
couplings.

NOTE: After installing the drive coupling assembly, the

rubber coupling must not be deformed more than .125
in. (3 mm) in either direction. If the rubber coupling is
deformed, correct by loosening the transmission hub
hub setscrews and changing the position of the hub. The
end of the pump hub must be positioned 0.60 - .250 in.
(1.5 - 6 mm) away from the transmission face. Tighten
the setscrews on the hub(s) to a torque of 12 ft-lb
(1.7 Kgm)

3. Remove the wheel blocks and jackstands. Lower the

machine to the shop floor.

4. Lower the seat and start the engine to test for proper
operation of the coupling components.

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 Engine Pulley Yoke Bearing Replacement (Fig. 10)
1. Position the machine on a level surface, turn the
engine off, remove the key from the ignition switch, and
engage the parking brake.

2. Remove the drive coupling as described in “Remov-

ing Drive Couplings”.

3. Remove the engine hub from the crankshaft pulley

after loosening the two setscrews that secure it in place.
Remove the woodruff key.

4. Use a thin screwdriver to remove the external retain-

ing ring that secures the bearing onto the crankshaft
pulley shaft.

5. Remove the two cap screws and spacers that secure

the large yoke to the bearing collar.

6. Use a pry bar to carefully remove the bearing and

bearing collar from the crankshaft pulley shaft.
Figure 10
7. Remove the bearing from the bearing collar after
removing the large internal snap ring from the bearing
collar. An arbor press should be used to press the
bearing out of the collar.

8. After bearing service, reinstall the components in

reverse order.

9. Lubricate the bearing with No. 2 general purpose

lithium base grease.

PTO Brake Replacement (Fig. 11)

1. Lower the implement to the shop floor, turn the engine
off, remove the key from the ignition switch, and engage
the parking brake.

2. Move the P.T.O. lever to the ENGAGE position to

move the pulley away from the brake.

3. Remove the locknut holding the brake onto the

mounting pin. Slide the spacer, brake and spring off of
the pins.

4. Reverse procedures to install the brake.

5. Adjust the brake as described in “Adjusting the P.T.O.

Brake”. Figure 11

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 PTO Belt Replacement (Fig. 12)
The PTO belt is a special double belt referred to as a
“torque team belt.”

1. To replace the belt, lower the implement to the shop

floor, turn the engine off, remove the key from the
ignition switch, and engage the parking brake.

2. Remove the drive coupling from between the engine

pulley and transmission hub; refer to “Removing Drive
Couplings”.

3. Move the P.T.O. lever to the ON position and remove

the P.T.O. brake; refer to “Replacing The P.T.O. Brake”.

4. Move the P.T.O. lever to the OFF position to release

the tension on the belt.

5. Remove the cotter pin and clevis pin from the P.T.O.
fork and pivot the P.T.O. fork forward, off of the P.T.O.
arm.
Figure 12
6. Roll the old belt off of the engine pulley and P.T.O.
pulley by carefully turning the P.T.O. pulley (by hand)
and moving the belt across the pulley grooves.

7. To install the new belt, roll the belt onto the P.T.O.
pulley and engine pulley, making sure the belt is to the
inside of the three belt guides.

8. Install the P.T.O. fork onto the P.T.O. arm and secure
it with the clevis pin and a new cotter pin.

9. Install the P.T.O. brake between the pulleys and

adjust it; refer to “Adjusting The P.T.O. Brake”.

10. Install the drive coupling between the engine pulley

and transmission hub; refer to “Installing Drive Cou-
plings”.

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 Removing PTO Control Lever and Linkage (Fig. 13, 14)
1. Lower the implement to the shop floor and turn the
engine off. Engage the parking brake.

2. Unlatch and remove the instrument panel cover.

3. With the control lever in the OFF position, the P.T.O.

compression spring tension is released and the linkage
can be removed or repaired.

4. Remove the long cap screw (Fig. 14, Item 35) that
passes through the P.T.O. compression spring
(Item 48). Have a helper hold the nuts (Item 33, 34) on
the top of the compression spring using the appropriate
wrench. Then remove the spring, washers and cap
screw.

5. Remove the cotter pin (Item 8) from the clevis pin

(Item 7) that secures the P.T.O. lever to the P.T.O.
compression spring yoke (Item 51). Remove the clevis
pin and yoke.
Figure 13
6. Use locking pliers to grasp the tension spring
(Item 50) which is attached to the frame just forward and
left of the P.T.O. lever. Unhook and remove the tension
spring from the P.T.O. assembly.

NOTE: There is an additional spring hook (Fig. 13) used

in conjunction with the tension spring. Be certain that
this hook is replaced as during reassembly or the spring
itself will soon break due to excessive tension.

7. Remove the four cap screws from the P.T.O. lever

clamp (Item 54). Lift the P.T.O. interlock switch bracket
(Item 6) off and set aside. Remove the clamp and P.T.O.
lever assembly.

8. Reverse steps 2 - 7 to reinstall the assembly.

9. Adjust the compression spring refer to “Correcting

P.T.O. Drive Belt Slippage”.

10. See Chapter 6, Electrical System, for P.T.O. inter-

lock switch repair and replacement.

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 PTO Shaft and Bearing Service (Fig. 14)
1. Remove the P.T.O. belt; refer to “Replacing the P.T.O. 6. Loosen the setscrews (Item 46) on the P.T.O. shaft
Belt”. bearing collars (Item 41). Use a punch and hammer to
rotate the collars in the opposite direction of shaft rota-
2. Remove the clevis pin (Item 7) from the P.T.O. lever tion. Remove the shaft (Item 43) and bearings (Item 40).
and compression spring yoke.
7. Replace any worn bushings, bearings and shafts.
3. Remove the tension spring (Item 50) using a locking
pliers; refer to instructions and note of step 6 in “Remov- 8. Reassemble in reverse order and check the align-
ing Control Lever and Linkage”. ment of the P.T.O. pulley. Adjust P.T.O. brake as neces-
sary; refer to “Aligning the P.T.O. Pulley and Engine
4. Remove the roll pins (Item 49) from the pivot shaft Pulley”.
(Item 9).
9. Adjust the compression spring; refer to “Correcting
5. Remove the pivot shaft and lower the P.T.O. pivot P.T.O. Drive Belt Slippage”.
assembly down and out of the traction frame.

Figure 14

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 9 - 11 Repairs

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 PTO Drive Shaft Removal (Fig. 15)

DANGER
Do not start the engine and engage the P.T.O.
lever when the P.T.O. shaft is not connected
to the gearbox on the cutting unit. If the en­
gine is started and the P.T.O. shaft Is allowed
to rotate, serious Injury could result.

1. Position the machine on a level surface, lower the

cutting unit to the shop floor, turn the engine off, remove
the key from the ignition switch, and engage the parking
brake. Figure 15
2. Remove the self-tapping screws securing the shield 1. PTO yoke 3. Roll pin
behind the cutting unit gear box and set the shield aside. 2. Yokes in phase 4. Capscrews & locknuts

3. Drive the roll pin out of the yoke and the input shaft
of the gearbox. Slide the yoke off of the input shaft. If
the traction unit will be used without the cutting unit,
drive the roll pin out of the yoke at the P.T.O. pivot shaft
and remove the entire universal shaft from the traction
unit.

Repairs Page 9 - 12 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 PTO Drive Shaft Universal Joint Replacement (Fig. 16, 17)
1 Remove the P.T.O. drive shaft. 15. Grease the fitting SLOWLY until grease starts to
show at the seals. Use a low pressure hand grease gun
2. Separate the two sections of the P.T.O. shaft. or a power gun equipped with a pressure relief valve.
Never use a high pressure gun without this adapter as
3. Mount the section to be repaired in a vise so that the it is possible to blow the rollers out of the yokes with the
U-joint is pointing upward. tremendous pressure; seals may also be damaged.

NOTE: If the splined portion is to be repaired, protect 16. Test the action of the assembled joint. It should move
the splines from vise damage with wooden blocks, vise throughout its range without binding. If a slight bind
jaw cushions, etc. exists, rap the yoke lugs with a soft hammer. This will
usually free the joint. If it does not, disassemble and
4. Use two thin screwdrivers to remove the “C” shaped check for the source of the bind.
snap ring from each of the U-joint rollers (located inside
of each yoke). Remove the shaft from the vise. IMPORTANT: When clamping in the vise, clamp the
solid portion of the U-joint. If the yoke must be
5. The vise may now be used as a press by placing a clamped, clamp lightly. Use jaw covers. Avoid
small socket against one roller and a large socket clamping the tube portion of the propeller shaft as
against the yoke on the opposite side. As the vise is it is thin and easily crushed. Never clamp the tube
closed, the small socket will force the cross to push the portion, even lightly, when it is necessary to ham­
opposite roller partway into the large socket. mer on the yoke. Support the free end of the propel­
ler shaft to remove some of the strain from the
6. When the roller is forced partway out, grasp the roller clamped end.
and strike the yoke to complete removal. Do not spill the
needle bearings.

7. Follow steps 5 and 6 to complete the removal of the

U-joint from the P.T.O. shaft.

8. When replacing the U-joint, pack the roller bearings

with the recommended lubricant (multi-purpose
grease). Pack carefully to eliminate trapped air. Install
seals.

9. Start one of the rollers in the yoke. Insert from the

bottom with the open side of the roller up to prevent loss
of the needles. Make sure that each roller contains all
of the needles. Figure 16

10. Insert one of the cross trunnions into the roller. Start
the other roller making certain it slips over the trunnion.

11. When partially seated, place the two rollers between

the vise jaws. Squeeze until FLUSH with the yoke. Stop
when flush; do not over-tighten.

12. Tap one of the rollers (use a brass punch the full
width of the roller) through the yoke until the snap ring
can be inserted. Insert the snap ring. Use new snap
rings. Make certain the snap ring is seated to full depth.

13. Support the cross and strike the yoke to force the
snap ring against the inner face of the yoke. Always seat
Figure 17
the roller in this fashion to prevent improper centering
of the cross.

14. Install the other snap ring or rings and seat the rollers
against the rings.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 9 - 13 Repairs

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 Installing the PTO Drive Shaft (Fig. 18, 19)

DANGER
Do not start the engine and engage the P.T.O.
lever when the P.T.O. shaft is not connected
to the gearbox on the cutting unit. If the en­
gine is started and the P.T.O. shaft Is allowed
to rotate, serious Injury could result.

The P.T.O. Drive Shaft has two major components.

When replacing it on the machine, the spline shaft
portion attaches to the traction unit and the tube portion
attaches to the cutting unit gearbox.

IMPORTANT: The P.T.O. shaft yokes must be exactly

in line with each other when the outer P.T.O. sleeve
is installed on the splined shaft. Remove the sleeve
and change the yoke position if alignment is not
correct. Misalignment of the yokes will shorten the
Figure 18
life of the P.T.O. Drive Shaft assembly and cause
unnecessary vibration when the cutting unit is op­
erated.

1. Line up the holes in the yoke and the input shaft of

the gearbox. Slide the yoke onto the shaft and secure
the parts together with the roll pin.

2. Mount the P.T.O. shield over the input shaft and onto
the gearbox mounting plate with the two self-tapping
screws.

Figure 19

1. PTO yoke 3. Roll pin

2. Yokes in phase 4. Capscrews & locknuts

Repairs Page 9 - 14 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Chapter 10
GM322-D or GM325-D with Inasaka axle

4WD Rear Axle

Table of Contents
SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
REPAIRS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Drive Shaft Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Over-Running Clutch Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Rear Axle Removal and Installation. . . . . . . . . . . 7

ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Axle Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Rear Wheel Toe-in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 10 - 1 Rev. C Table of Contents

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 Specifications

Item Specification
__________________________________________________________________________________________
Lubricant (Fig. 1, 2) SAE 80W90 gear lube
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Rear wheel toe-in 1/8 inch

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Rear wheel bolt torque 45 - 55 ft-lb

Figure 1 Figure 2

1. Check plugs (2) 2. Mounting bolts 1. Drain plugs

Specifications Page 10 - 2 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 General Information

Over-Running Clutch Operation

A drive shaft connected to the front axle provides power
for the rear 4WD drive axle. The drive shaft tor the rear 49 RPM Locked
ax l e incorporates an OVER-RUNNING (ROLLER) Unlocked
CLUTCH THAT TRANSMITS POWER ONLY IN THE FOR- 50 RPM

WARD DIRECTION (Fig. 4). 49 RPM Rear axle

pinion shaft
Front and rear axle gear ratios and tire sizes were 49 RPM
carefully selected so that during normal operation, the
REAR AXLE PINION SHAFT TURNS SLIGHTLY FASTER
THAN THE REAR AXLE DRIVE SHAFT.

Any time the front wheels begin to slip (such as when Rear axle
drive shaft
climbing a steep hill), the forward movement of the
traction unit slows. This causes the rear axle pinion
speed to slow down. As soon as the rear axle pinion is Figure 4
turning the same speed as the drive shaft, the roller
clutch will engage and power will be transmitted from
the drive shaft to the rear wheels – four wheel drive
(Fig. 4).

When the traction unit is turning, the rear wheels swing

out in a larger arc and must travel faster than the front
wheels. In this condition, the rear wheels and axle pinion
shaft are turning faster than the drive shaft and the roller
clutch is disengaged (Fig. 5).

NOTE: The four wheel drive system may not operate

properly if the tires are replaced by different size tires,
or if proper tire pressure is not maintained.

Figure 5

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 10 - 3 General Information

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 Adjustments

Rear Wheel Toe-in (Fig. 6)

1. Measure center–to–center distance (at axle height)
at front and rear of steering tires. Front measurement
must be 0 to 1/8 in. less than rear measurement.

2. Remove cotter pin and nut securing one tie rod ball
joint to mounting bracket on axle and disconnect ball
joint from axle (Fig. 7).

3. Loosen screw on tie rod clamp. Rotate ball joint in or

out to adjust length of tie rod.

4. Reinstall ball joint ot mounting bracket and check

wheel toe-in.

5. After getting correct adjustment, tighten screw on tie Figure 6

rod clamp and connect ball joint to mounting bracket
with nut and cotter pin. 1. Ball joint 3. Tie rod clamp
2. Tie rod

Steering Stop Adjustment (Fig. 7)

The rear axle steering stops help prevent over travel of
the steering cylinder in case of impact on rear wheels.
The stops should be adjusted so there is 0.090 in.
clearance between bolt head and knuckle on axle when
steering wheel is completely turned left or right.

1. Thread bolt in out out unitl 0.090 in. clearance is

attained (Fig. 7)

Figure 7

1. Steering stops

Adjustments Page 10 - 4 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Repairs

Drive Shaft Service

0.34 ± 0.03″ Arrow end of roller

clutches must face
31 30 29 37 36
0.040″ MAX 6-bolt flange end of
clutch housing
A
30 toward rear axle)
B Apply
Never-seeze

34

Detail A Detail B

33 31 32 39 35

Figure 8

Removing Drive Shaft Clutch Service

1. Put machine on a level surface, lower cutting unit, 1. To disassemble clutch, remove six (6) capscrews
stop the engine and remove the key from the ignition (Item 17) and lockwashers (Item 16). Remove axle
switch. Block the rear wheels to prevent the machine coupling (Item 15) from clutch housing (Item 23).
from moving.
2. Remove retaining ring (Item 21). Clutch housing
2. Use a hammer and punch to drive roll pin (Fig. 8, (Item 23), along with thrust washers (Item 14), roller
Item 35) out of axle coupling (Item 37) and rear axle clutches (Item 22) and seals (Item 13) can now be
shaft. Loosen two (2) capscrews and locknuts securing removed from yoke shaft (Item 12).
coupling to axle shaft. Slide coupling off of shaft.
3. Inspect parts and replace as necessary.
3. Remove six (6) socket head capscrews and lock-
washers securing drive shaft yoke flange to flange on 4. Roller clutches (Item 22) must be installed into hous-
front axle differential (not shown). ing (Item 23) so end is flush to 0.040 in. inset with
shoulder at each end of housing bore. Both roller
clutches must be installed with arrow end toward 6-bolt
flange end of housing as shown in view B - B.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 10 - 5 Repairs

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 0.34 ± 0.03″ Arrow end of roller
clutches must face
31 30 29 37 36
0.040″ MAX 6-bolt flange end of
clutch housing
A
30 toward rear axle)
B Apply
Never-seeze

34

Detail A Detail B

33 31 32 39 35

Figure 9

5. Put thrust washer (Item 14) in housing adjacent to Installing Drive Shaft.
roller clutch as shown. Press both seals (Item 13) into
end of housing to dimensions shown. Seals must be 1. Apply never-seize to splines of traction shaft and axle
installed with lip facing out. input shaft.

6. Install clutch assembly onto yoke shaft, then install 2. Slide clutch end of drive shaft onto rear axle shaft
other thrust washer. Install retaining ring (Item 29) to spline, aligning roll pin hole in shaft with hole in axle
secure clutch assembly to shaft. Install axle coupling coupling (Item 37). Install roll pin (Item 35) through
(Item 37) to clutch housing with six (6) capscrews and coupling and shaft.
lockwashers, then tighten capscrews evenly.
3. Tighten two (2) capscrews (Item 44) and locknuts
7. Lubricate clutch through grease fitting (Item 32) with (Item 43) to secure coupling to shaft.
No. 2 General Purpose Lithium Grease.
4. Secure drive shaft yoke flange to flange on front axle
differential with six (6) socket head capscrews and
lockwashers (not shown).

Repairs Page 10 - 6 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Rear Axle Removal and Installation

45 - 55 ft-lb

Figure 10A

Figure 10B

1. Remove drain plugs from axle and allow oil to drain 8. Remove nut (Fig. 10A, Item 14) and flatwasher
into a container (Fig. 2). (Item 15). Remove capscrews (Item 6) from pin
(Item 7). Remove the pin. This will release the rear axle
2. Remove drive shaft (see Drive Shaft Service). and washers from the support (Item 9). Carefully pull the
axle out from under the machine.
3. Disconnect clutch engagement cable from rear axle.
NOTE: A varying number of washers (Fig. 10B, Item 41,
4. Thoroughly clean around hydraulic hoses connec- 42) may have been installed between the axle pivot and
tions to steering cylinder. Mark hoses so they will be axle support during manufacture. Make sure the same
installed correctly during reassembly. Disconnect hoses number of washers are installed during reassembly.
from fittings on steering cylinder. Put plugs or caps on
open hoses and fittings to prevent contamination of 9. Reverse steps 1 - 8 to install axle. The washers
hydraulic system. (Fig. 10B, Item 41, 42) must be positioned between the
front end of the axle pivot and the axle support (see the
5. Loosen rear wheel capscrews (Fig. 10A, Item 23). NOTE above). Make sure thrust washer (Fig. 10B,
Item 14) is installed between rear end of axle pivot and
6. Block front tires and jack up rear of machine until there the axle support.
is approximately one inch clearance between rear tires
and the ground. SECURELY BLOCK FRAME.

7. Remove rear wheels.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 10 - 7 Repairs

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 Rear Axle Repair

16 - 20 ft-lb Apply Loctite

20 - 24 ft-lb

Shim for
backlash adjustment

Measure
backlash here:
0.003 - 0.01″

16 - 20 ft-lb

Tighten to pre-load
bearings. Pinion shaft Shim for bevel gear to pin-
should rotate with ion contact adjustment
2.0 - 5.5 in-lb torque

Figure 12

1. Remove bolts (Fig. 12, Item 60) securing axle tubes 4. Disassemble differential case (Fig. 12):
(Item 16, 61) to differential case (Item 24). Separate axle
tubes and axles from differental case. A. Remove bolts (Item 53, 56) and remove clutch
cover (Item 53).
2. Remove bolts (Fig. 12, Item 60) securing axle tubes
(Item 16, 61) to gearbox housings (Fig. 13, Item 23) of B. Remove bolts (Item 40) and remove bearing case
knuckle assemblies. Separate axle tubes and axles (Item 38) and pinion gear (Item 30) from differential
from knuckle assemblies. case (Item 24).

3. Disassemble knuckle assembly (Fig .13): C. Remove bolts (Item 1) and remove cover (Item 2).
Remove differential assembly from differential case.
A. Remove bolts (Item 28, 39) securing covers
(Item 30, 26) to knuckle case (Item 28). C. Remove bolts (Item 7) to disassemble differential.

B. Pull out outer axle shaft (Item 35) and bevel gear Inspection
(Item 5).
Inspect shaft splines, gears and bearings for wear and
C. Remove capscrews (Item 10) securing knuckle damage. Replace parts as necessary. Use suitable
arm (Item 8) to knuckle case (Item 28). Pull off bearing pullers and an arbor press when replacing
knuckle arm toward upper side and pull off case bearings.
toward bottom.
NOTE: Ring gear (Item 6) and pinion (Item 30) are a
D. Remove capscrews (Item 13) and remove bear- matched set that must be replaced together.
ing retainer (Item 15). Remove bevel gear (Item 18)
and knuckle pin (Item 20).

Repairs Page 10 - 8 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 6 - 8 ft-lb

12 - 20 ft-lb

Apply Loctite
12 - 20 ft-lb

Figure 13

Assembly E. Tighten bolts (Item 1, 40) to a torque of 16 - 20 ft-lb

(220-280 Kg-Cm).
1. Use new gaskets and seals when reassembling axle.
F. Assemble clutch parts and install clutch cover
2. Assemble differential case (Fig. 12): (Item 53). Install new oil seals (Item 54, 55).

A. Assemble differential. Use medium strength Loc-

tite on bolts (Item 7) and tighten evenly to a torque
of 20 - 24 ft-lb (270-330 Kg-Cm).

B. Assemble pinion gear (Item 30) and bearing case

(Item 38). Tighten bearing nut (Item 34) to pre-load
tapered roller bearings. Tighten so pinion shaft will
rotate with 2 - 5.5 in-lb (2.0 - 6.5 Kg-Cm) of torque.
Bend washer (Item 33) to prevent nut from loosen-
ing. Tooth contact between bevel gear
and pinion with light load
C. Adjust tooth contact of bevel gear (Item 6) to
pinion (Item 30). Use shims (Item 29) to make good
contact with light load between bevel gear and pinion Figure 14
(Fig. 13).

D. After adjusting tooth contact, use shims (Item 5)

to make backlash 0.003 - 0.01 in. (0.08 - 0.25 mm).
Check backlash through plug hole (Item 26) with a
dial indicator.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 10 - 9 Repairs

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 3. Assemble knuckle assembly (Fig. 13): (Item 38). Note that top two (2) capscrews (Item 39),
securing cover (Item 30) are a shorter length.
A. Insert needle bearing (Item 22), washer (Item 21),
knuckle pin (Item 20), spacer (Item 19) and bevel E. Install bevel gear (Item 5) to knuckle pin and install
gear (Item 18) into axle gear box (Item 23). Fasten cover (Item 26) to knuckle case (Item 38). Use
bearing retainer (Item 15) with bolts (Item 13) and medium strenght Loctite on capscrews (Item 28)
tighten bolts evenly to a torque of 6 - 8 ft-lb (80- securing cover (Item 26).
120 Kg-Cm).
F. Evenly tighten capscrews (Item 28, 39) securing
B. Assemble knuckle pin (Item 20) and knuckle case covers to a torque of 12 - 20 ft-lb (170-280 Kg-Cm).
(Item 38) to match knuckle arm (Item 8) with knuckle
pin. Fasten capscrew (Item 10) temporarily (will be 4. Install axle on machine (see Rear Axle Removal and
removed to fill with lubricant). Installation).

C. Assemble wheel shaft (Item 35) to cover 5. Fill axle with proper lubricant to level of check plugs
(Item 30). (see Specifications).

D. Assemble gear (Item 5) to wheel shaft and install

cover and wheel shaft assembly to knuckle case

Repairs Page 10 - 10 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Chapter 10.1

GM 325–D or GM 328–D with Dae Dong Axle

4WD Rear Axle

Table of Contents
NOTE: For GM322–D or GM325–D with Inasaka axle, see Chapter 10 – 4WD Rear Axle in this manual.

SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Axle Shafts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Steering Stop Bolt Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
REPAIRS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Input Shaft/Pinion Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
4WD Rear Axle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Differential Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Bevel Gear Case and Axle Case . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Pinion Gear to Ring Gear Engagement . . . . . . . . 17
Differential Shafts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Gear Pattern Movement Summary . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Bidirectional Clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Bidirectional Clutch Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Groundsmaster 328–D Page 10.1 – 1 4WD Rear Axle (Rev. G)

(Dae Dong Axle)

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 Specifications

Item Specification

Wheel lug nut torque (rear) 45 to 55 ft-lbs. (61 to 75 Nm)

Rear wheel toe-in 0.000 in. (0.0 mm)

Tire pressure (front and rear) 21 psi (145 kPa)

Rear axle lubricant SAE 80W90, API GL-5 gear lube

Bidirectional clutch lubricant Mobil 424 hydraulic fluid

4WD Rear Axle (Rev. G) Page 10.1 – 2 Groundsmaster 328–D

(Dae Dong Axle)

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 Adjustments

Steering Stop Bolt Adjustment

The rear axle steering stop bolts help prevent over–trav-
el of the steering cylinder in case of impacts on rear
wheels. When the steering cylinder is fully extended, a
gap of 1/16” (1.6 mm) should exist between left side bev-
el gear case casting and stop bolt (Fig. 1). When the 2
steering cylinder is fully retracted, a gap of 1/16” (1.6 1
mm) should exist between right side bevel gear case
casting and stop bolt.

Figure 1
1. Steering stop bolt 2. Bevel gear case (LH)

Groundsmaster 328–D Page 10.1 – 3 4WD Rear Axle (Rev. G)

(Dae Dong Axle)

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 Repairs
NOTE: See Traction Unit Operator’s Manual for Main-
tenance intervals and instructions.

4WD Rear Axle

32
31
30
23 24
29
28 33

27
34
25 35
22 36
56 55
34
21 26
35
57 37
20 38
18 19
54 53 52 51
58 39
17 40 41
49
42
16 13
15 12 50 43
14 44
11
10 45
46
2

9 1
3
4
5
RIGHT 6
7
48
FRONT 47
8
45 to 55 ft–lbs.
(61 to 75 Nm)

Figure 2
1. 4WD rear axle 21. Flange head screw (4 used) 40. Washer (4 used)
2. Adaptor 22. Frame spacer (4 used) 41. Tie rod
3. Cap screw (2 used) 23. Flange nut (4 used) 42. Cap screw (2 used)
4. Bidirectional clutch 24. Main frame 43. Cotter pin (2 used)
5. Flat washer 25. Axle support 44. Tie rod end (2 used)
6. Lock washer 26. Lock nut (2 used) 45. Grease fitting (2 used)
7. Lock washer (6 used) 27. Rear axle pin 46. Hex nut (2 used)
8. Socket head screw (6 used) 28. Grease fitting 47. Lug nut (5 used per wheel)
9. Driveshaft 29. Washer head screw 48. Wheel (2 used)
10. Cap screw
30. Bumper 49. Slotted hex nut (2 used)
11. Spacer
12. Cap screw (2 used) 31. Flat washer (2 used) 50. Cylinder support bracket
13. Cap screw 32. Lock washer (2 used) 51. Jam nut (2 used per ball joint)
14. R–clamp 33. Cap screw (2 used) 52. Thrust washer (0.0179” thick)
15. Washer head screw 34. Hydraulic fitting 53. Thrust washer (0.0329” thick)
16. Guard 35. O–ring 54. Steering cylinder
17. Flange head nut 36. Hydraulic hose 55. O–ring
18. Rear weight 37. Hydraulic hose 56. Retaining ring (2 used)
19. Jam nut 38. Grease fitting (2 used) 57. Steering cylinder ball joint (2 used)
20. Thrust washer 39. Cap screw (4 used) 58. Oscillation stop (2 used)

4WD Rear Axle (Rev. G) Page 10.1 – 4 Groundsmaster 328–D

(Dae Dong Axle)

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 Removal (Fig. 2) Installation (Fig. 2)

1. Park machine on a level surface, lower cutting deck 1. Position rear axle support to axle. Install thrust wash-
(or implement), stop engine, engage parking brake and ers (items 52 and 53) between axle boss and axle sup-
remove key from the ignition switch. port to minimize clearance.

2. Drain oil from rear axle (see Traction Unit Operator’s 2. Install rear axle pin (item 27) to secure axle to rear
Manual). axle support. Install thrust washer (item 20) and jam nut
(item 19) onto pivot pin. Torque jam nut from 90 to 120
ft–lb (122 to 163 N–m). Secure pivot pin to axle support
CAUTION with washer head screw (item 29).

When changing attachments, tires, or perform- 3. Position axle and axle support under machine with a
ing other service, use correct blocks, hoists, jack. Place frame spacers (item 22) on axle support.
and jacks. Make sure machine is parked on a Raise assembly to machine frame and align mounting
solid, level surface such as a concrete floor. holes of axle support, frame spacers and machine
Prior to raising machine, remove any attach- frame.
ments that may interfere with the safe and
proper raising of the machine. Always chock or 4. Secure rear axle support to frame with four (4) flange
block wheels. Use jack stands or solid wood head screws (item 21) and flange nuts (item 23).
blocks to support the raised machine. If the ma-
5. Remove plugs and caps from steering cylinder hy-
chine is not properly supported by blocks or
draulic hoses and fittings. Connect hoses to fittings on
jack stands, the machine may move or fall,
steering cylinder.
which may result in personal injury.
6. Position end of driveshaft to bidirectional clutch on
3. Chock front wheels and jack up rear of machine. rear axle. Secure driveshaft to clutch with six (6) socket
Support machine with jack stands or solid wood blocks. head screws (item 8) and lock washers (item 7).

4. Remove wheels from rear axle.

5. Remove six (6) socket head screws (item 8) and lock WARNING
washers (item 7) that secure driveshaft to bidirectional
clutch on rear axle. Position end of driveshaft away from Failure to maintain proper wheel lug nut
clutch. torque could result in failure or loss of wheel
and may result in personal injury.
6. Thoroughly clean around hydraulic hose connec-
tions to steering cylinder. Label hoses for assembly pur- 7. Install wheels to axle. Torque wheel lug nuts from 45
poses. Disconnect hoses from fittings on steering to 55 ft-lbs. (61 to 75 Nm).
cylinder. Put plugs or caps on open hoses and fittings to
prevent contamination of hydraulic system. 8. Lower machine to ground.

7. If machine has rear weight(s) attached to frame, re- 9. If any rear weight(s) were removed from machine, at-
move weight(s). tach weight(s) to machine.

8. Support rear axle to prevent it from falling. Remove 10.Fill axle and input gearbox with SAE 80W–90 weight
four (4) flange head screws (item 21) and flange nuts gear lube (see Traction Unit Operator’s Manual).
(item 23) that secure rear axle support to equipment
frame. Lower rear axle and rear axle support from ma- 11. Check bidirectional clutch lubricant level (see Trac-
chine. tion Unit Operator’s Manual). Adjust if necessary.

9. Locate and retrieve frame spacers (item 22). 12.Start engine and check for component interference
as steering wheel is turned from lock to lock. Also, check
10.Remove jam nut (item 19) and thrust washer (item for any hydraulic leaks.
20) from rear axle pin (item 27) that attaches rear axle
to rear axle support. Remove washer head screw (item 13.Check rear wheel toe–in and adjust if necessary (see
29) that secures flange of axle pin to rear axle support. Traction Unit Operator’s Manual).

11. Remove rear axle pin. Separate rear axle support 14.Check adjustment of steering stop bolts (see Steer-
from rear axle. Note location and quantity of thrust ing Stop Bolt Adjustment in the Adjustments section).
washers (items 52 and 53) between axle boss and axle
support.
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 Bevel Gear Case and Axle Case
The following procedures assume the rear axle assem-
35 to 41 ft–lbs.
bly has been removed from the machine. (47 to 56 Nm)

Removal 1
6
1. Remove the mounting screws, nuts, and lock wash- 5
ers. Remove the bevel gear case/axle case assembly
and O-ring from the axle support (Fig. 3). 4
2
2. Mark both right and left bevel gear case/axle case 3
assemblies.
35 to 41 ft–lbs.
IMPORTANT: Do not interchange right and left (47 to 56 Nm)
bevel gear case/axle case assemblies.
Figure 3
1. Cap screw 5. Bevel gear case/axle
2. Lock nut case assembly
3. Lock washer 6. O-ring
4. Axle support

3. Remove the axle cover mounting screws. Remove

the axle cover from the axle case as an assembly
(Fig. 4).
1
4
3

Figure 4
1. Axle case 3. Mounting screw
2. Axle cover assembly 4. O-ring

4. Remove the axle case support mounting screws, the

axle case support, and the support shims (Fig. 5). 3

Figure 5
1. Axle case 3. Mounting screw
2. Axle case support 4. Support shim

4WD Rear Axle (Rev. G) Page 10.1 – 6 Groundsmaster 328–D

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 5. Remove the knuckle pin mounting screws and the
knuckle pin. Remove the gasket and any remaining gas- 17 to 20 ft–lb
(23 to 27 N–m)
ket material from either mating surface (Fig. 6).
1
6. While holding the bevel gear case, lightly tap the up- Threadlocking
per end of the bevel gear shaft out of the upper bearing Compound
3
and upper bevel gear.
5

7. Pull the bevel gear case from the axle case and re- 4
move the upper bevel gear, collar, spacer, and thrust 7
washer from the gear case. 9
2
13
8. Remove the axle case cover screws, cover, and the 8
O-ring from the axle case.
10
9. Remove the plug and sealing washer from the center
of the axle case cover. While holding the axle case cov-
er, lightly tap the lower end of the bevel gear shaft out of 6
the lower bearing and lower bevel gear.
15
10.Remove and discard bevel gear shaft seals from
bevel gear case and axle case (Fig. 6). 11

12 14

17 to 20 ft–lb
(23 to 27 N–m)

Figure 6
1. Knuckle pin 9. Upper bevel gear
2. Shaft seals 10. Thrust washer
3. O–ring 11. Lower bevel gear
4. Bevel gear case 12. Lower bearing
5. Upper bearing 13. Axle case
6. Bevel gear shaft 14. Axle case cover
7. Collar 15. O-ring
8. Spacer

Inspection

1. Measure the knuckle pin O.D. and the axle case sup-
1
port bushing I.D. to determine the bushing to pin clear-
ance (Fig. 7). Replace components as necessary. 2

BUSHING TO PIN CLEARANCE:

0.002 to 0.016 in. (0.05 to 0.40 mm)

KNUCKLE PIN O.D. (Factory Spec.):

0.982 to 0.983 in. (24.95 to 24.98 mm)

AXLE CASE SUPPORT BUSHING I.D.

(Factory Spec.):
0.984 to 0.987 in. (25.00 to 25.08 mm)
Figure 7
1. Knuckle pin 2. Axle case support
2. Inspect all gears, shafts, bearings, cases, and cov-
ers for damage and wear. Replace components as nec-
essary.

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 Installation

1. Coat new shaft seals with grease and install in axle

case and bevel gear case as shown (Fig. 8).

Figure 8
1. Axle case 3. Shaft seal
2. Bevel gear case

2. Install the lower bevel gear, and bevel gear shaft in

the axle case cover. Coat a new O-ring with grease and 17 to 20 ft–lbs.
(23 to 27 Nm)
install the axle case cover (Fig. 9). Tighten cover screws Thread Locker
to 17 to 20 ft-lbs. (23 to 27 Nm).
10 9
3. Slide the bevel gear case over the bevel gear shaft
and install the thrust washer, spacer, bevel gear, and
collar. Make sure the bevel gear shaft is completely
seated in the upper and lower bearings (Fig. 9). 8

4. Install the knuckle pin. Use medium strength Loctite 7

thread locker and tighten the knuckle pin mounting
6
screws to 17 to 20 ft-lbs. (23 to 27 Nm).
5

17 to 20 ft–lbs.
(23 to 27 Nm)
4 1

Figure 9
1. Axle case cover 6. Spacer
2. Lower bevel gear 7. Upper bevel gear
3. Bevel gear shaft 8. Collar
4. Lower bearing 9. Upper bearing
5. Thrust washer 10. Knuckle pin

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 5. Determine necessary quantity of support shims.
4 57 to 67 ft–lbs.
A. Lubricate the axle case support bushing with a (77 to 91 Nm)
thin coat of grease and slide axle case support onto
knuckle pin. 1

B. Position support shims that were removed during VERTICAL

disassembly between axle case support and axle ENDPLAY 6
case. Install mounting screws into axle case. Slowly
tighten screws while frequently checking for clear- 5 2
ance (vertical endplay) between axle case support
and knuckle pin. If binding of components is noted
before screws are fully tightened, add additional sup- 3
port shims. Torque screws from 57 to 67 ft–lbs. (77 to
91 Nm).

C. Use dial indicator to measure vertical endplay of Figure 10

1. Axle case support 4. Dial indicator
axle case (Fig. 10). 2. Axle case 5. Knuckle pin
3. Bevel gearcase 6. Support shim location
AXLE CASE ASSEMBLY ENDPLAY:
0.001 to 0.008 in. (0.02 to 0.20 mm)
3 2
D. Adjust endplay by increasing or reducing number 1
of axle case support shims.

NOTE: Axle case support shims are available in

0.004 in. (0.1 mm), 0.008 in. (0.2 mm), and 0.016 in. 4
(0.4 mm) thickness.

6. After correct support shims have been determined,

remove mounting screws, apply heavy strength Loctite
thread locker to screw threads, reinstall screws, and
torque from 57 to 67 ft–lbs. (77 to 91 Nm).
5
IMPORTANT: Correct engagement between bevel
gears is critical to axle performance and durability.

7. Temporarily install the bevel gear case/axle case as- Figure 11

sembly on the axle support. Position a dial indicator at 1. Axle support 4. Dial indicator
2. Upper bevel gear 5. Axle bearing shims
the tooths center. Prevent the axle from turning and 3. Differential shaft gear
measure the upper bevel gear to differential shaft gear
backlash (Fig. 11).

UPPER BEVEL GEAR BACKLASH:

4
5
0.004 to 0.016 in. (0.10 to 0.40 mm)

8. Adjust backlash by increasing or reducing axle bear-

ing shim thickness (see Differential Shafts in this section
of this manual).

NOTE: Axle bearing shims are available in 0.004 in.

(0.1 mm), 0.008 in. (0.2 mm), and 0.020 in. (0.5 mm)
thickness.

2 3

Figure 12
1. Axle cover assembly 4. Dial indicator
2. Lower bevel gear 5. Axle bearing shims
3. Axle gear

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 9. Remove the bevel gear case/axle case assembly NOTE: Axle bearing shims are available in 0.008 in.
from the axle support. Coat a new O-ring with grease (0.2 mm), 0.012 in. (0.3 mm), and 0.020 in. (0.5 mm)
and temporarily install the axle cover assembly. Position thickness.
a dial indicator at the tooths center. Prevent the axle
from turning and measure the lower bevel gear to axle 11. Tighten axle cover screws from 17 to 20 ft-lbs. (23 to
gear backlash (Fig. 12). 27 Nm).

LOWER BEVEL GEAR BACKLASH: 12.Coat a new O-ring with grease and install the bevel
0.004 to 0.016 in. (0.10 to 0.40 mm) gear case/axle case assembly on the axle support.
Tighten mounting screws and nuts from 35 to 41 ft-lbs.
10.Adjust backlash by increasing or reducing axle bear- (47 to 56 Nm) (Fig. 13).
ing shim thickness (see Axle Shafts in this section of this
manual).

Differential Shafts
The following procedures assume the rear axle assem-
35 to 41 ft–lbs.
bly has been removed from the machine. (47 to 56 Nm)

Removal 1
6
IMPORTANT: Do not interchange right and left dif- 5
ferential shafts assemblies.
4
1. Remove the mounting screws, nuts, and lock wash- 2
ers. Remove the bevel gear case/axle case assembly 3
and O-ring from the axle support (Fig. 13).
35 to 41 ft–lbs.
2. Mark and pull the differential shaft assembly from the (47 to 56 Nm)
axle support.

3. Remove the retaining ring and bevel gear (Fig 14). Figure 13
1. Cap screw 5. Bevel gear case/axle
4. Drive the differential shaft out of the bearings. Re- 2. Lock nut case assembly
3. Lock washer 6. O-ring
move the bearings and bearing shims. 4. Axle support

5. Inspect all gears, shafts, bearings, and cases for

damage and wear. Replace components as necessary.

Installation
3
1. Press bearings onto differential shaft. Place correct
combination of bearing shims in axle support and drive 5
differential shaft and bearing assembly into axle sup- 4
2
port. 1

2. Install bevel gear and retaining ring.

3. Align differential shaft splines with differential gear

assembly and slide differential shaft assembly onto axle
support.
Figure 14
4. Coat new O-ring with grease. Install bevel gear case/
1. Retaining ring 4. Bearing
axle case assembly (see Bevel Gear Case/Axle Case 2. Bevel gear 5. Bearing shims
Assembly in this section of this manual). 3. Differential shaft

4WD Rear Axle (Rev. G) Page 10.1 – 10 Groundsmaster 328–D

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 Axle Shafts
The following procedures assume the rear axle assem-
bly has been removed from the machine. 17 to 20 ft–lbs.
(23 to 27 Nm)
Removal 1
4
1. Remove the axle cover mounting screws. Remove
the axle cover from the axle case as an assembly 3
(Fig. 15).

2. Use a bearing puller to remove the bearing and bevel

gear as shown (Fig. 16).

3. Remove the shims, spacer, and retaining ring. Drive 2

the axle out of the bearing and cover. Remove and dis-
card the axle shaft seal.
Figure 15
1. Axle case 3. Mounting screw
4. Inspect all gears, shafts, bearings, spacers, and 2. Axle cover assembly 4. O-ring
cases for damage and wear. Replace components as
necessary.

Installation
1
1. Coat new axle shaft seal with grease and install in
axle cover as shown (Fig. 17).
2
2. Press the axle cover and bearing assembly onto the
axle shaft. Press only on the inner race of the cover 4
bearing (Fig. 17). 3
5
3. Install retaining ring, spacer, and correct combina-
tion of bearing shims. Install bevel gear and bearing.

4. Coat a new O-ring with grease and install the axle

cover assembly. Tighten axle cover screws to 17 to 20
ft-lbs. (23 to 27 Nm).
Figure 16
1. Bearing 4. Spacer
2. Bevel gear 5. Retaining ring
3. Shims

2 3

Figure 17
1. Axle shaft seal 3. Bearing
2. Axle cover 4. Axle shaft

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 Input Shaft/Pinion Gear
The following procedures assume the rear axle assem-
bly has been removed from the machine.

Removal

1. Remove input shaft/pinion gear assembly from the 7

axle support. Remove the shims and bearing case O-
ring.

2. Release the stake washer and remove the locknut. 5

Remove and discard the stake washer (Fig. 18).
4
3. Drive the input shaft/pinion gear out from the outer
bearing cone and bearing case. Remove and discard
8
the oil seal and O-ring.

4. Inspect all gears, shafts, bearings, spacers, and

cases for damage and wear. Replace components as
necessary. 3

NOTE: Replacement input shaft/pinion gears are only

6
available in matched ring and pinion sets.

Installation 9

NOTE: When installing new bearing cones, press only 10

on the inner race of the bearing cone.
11
2
1. If the inner bearing cone was removed, press a new
bearing cone all the way onto the input shaft/pinion gear. 1

2. Place the shaft and bearing assembly in the bearing Figure 18

case and install the outer bearing cone. 1. Lock nut 7. Input shaft/pinion gear
2. Stake washer 8. Bearing case shims
3. Bearing case 9. Seal collar
NOTE: The bearings must be completely seated. 4. Bearing case O-ring 10. O-ring
There should be no input shaft/pinion gear end play. 5. Inner bearing 11. Oil seal
6. Outer bearing
3. Coat a new oil seal with grease and install as shown
(Fig. 19).

4. Coat a new O-ring with grease. Install O-ring in the

oil seal collar, and install the collar.

5. Install a new stake washer. Install the lock nut finger

tight. 0.040 in. (1.0 mm)

2 1
6. Set the bearing preload be securing the bearing case
in a vise. Thread a M12 x 1.5 hex head capscrew into the
splined end of the input shaft/pinion gear.

7. Slowly tighten the locknut until 4.0 to 6.0 in-lbs. (0.4

to 0.7 Nm) of force is required to rotate the input shaft/
pinion gear in the bearing case.

8. Secure the lock nut with the stake washer. Figure 19

1. Oil seal 2. Bearing case

4WD Rear Axle (Rev. G) Page 10.1 – 12 Groundsmaster 328–D

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 9. Use a depth gauge to measure the distance from the
end face of the input shaft/pinion gear to the mating sur-
face of the bearing case. Subtract the “Design Cone
Center Distance” from this distance to determine initial
shim thickness (Fig. 20). Design
1 Cone Center
Distance
DESIGN CONE CENTER DISTANCE

(distance from mating surface of axle support to end

face of pinion gear):

1.870 + 0.002 in. (47.5 + 0.05 mm)

2
NOTE: Bearing case shims are available in 0.004 in.
(0.1 mm) and 0.008 in. (0.2 mm) thickness.

10.Coat a new O-ring with grease. Place shims on the

bearing case and temporarily install input shaft/pinion
gear assembly into axle case. Tighten mounting screws Figure 20
to 35 to 41 ft-lbs. (47 to 56 Nm). 1. Input shaft/pinion gear 2. Bearing case

11. Insert a screwdriver through the drain plug hole to

hold ring gear and measure the pinion gear to ring gear
backlash (Fig. 21).
1
PINION GEAR TO RING GEAR BACKLASH:

0.004 to 0.016 in. (0.10 to 0.40 mm)

12.Adjust backlash by increasing or reducing bearing

3 2
case shim thickness.

13.Check pinion gear to ring gear engagement (see Pin-

ion Gear to Ring Gear Engagement in this section of this 4
manual.
35 to 41 ft–lbs.
14.Place the correct combination of shims on the bear- (47 to 56 Nm)

ing case. Tighten mounting screws to 35 to 41 ft-lbs. (47

to 56 Nm). Figure 21

1. Axle case 3. Dial indicator

2. Screwdriver 4. Input shaft/pinion gear

Groundsmaster 328–D Page 10.1 – 13 4WD Rear Axle (Rev. G)

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 Differential Gear
The following procedures assume the rear axle assem-
bly has been removed from the machine. 35 to 41 ft–lbs.
(47 to 56 Nm)
5
Removal
7 1
1. Remove bevel gear case/axle case assemblies (see 6 2
Bevel Gear Case/Axle Case Assembly in this section of
this manual).

IMPORTANT: Do not interchange right and left dif-

ferential shafts assemblies.

2. Mark and pull the differential shaft assemblies from 4

the axle support (see Differential Shafts in this section
of this manual). 3

3. Remove input shaft/pinion gear assembly, shims, Figure 22

and O-ring from the axle support (Fig. 22). 1. Pinion gear 5. Case screws
2. O-ring 6. Differential gear
3. Axle support (right) 7. O-ring
4. Remove the axle support case screws. Separate the 4. Axle support (left)
axle support halves and remove the O-ring.

5. Remove the differential gear assembly, bearings,

2
and adjusting shims from the axle case.
1
6. Drive the spring pin from the differential case with a
punch and hammer. Discard the spring pin (Fig. 23).

NOTE: Mark and arrange all components so they can

be reassembled in their original position.

7. Remove the differential pinion shaft, pinion gears,

and pinion washers. Remove the differential side gears
and side gear shims. Remove the ring gear from the dif-
ferential case only if the ring gear will be replaced (Fig.
24). Figure 23
1. Differential case 2. Spring pin
NOTE: Replacement ring gears are only available in
matched ring and pinion sets.
1 3

2
4
5
5
4
2
3

7
6

22 to 25 ft–lbs.
(30 to 34 Nm)
Thread Locker

Figure 24
1. Differential pinion shaft 5. Side gear shims
2. Pinion gear 6. Ring gear
3. Pinion washer 7. Differential case
4. Side gear

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 Inspection

1. Measure the differential side gear O.D. and the dif-

ferential case I.D. to determine the side gear to case
clearance (Fig. 25). Replace components as necessary.

SIDE GEAR TO CASE CLEARANCE:

0.002 to 0.012 in. (0.05 to 0.30 mm)

SIDE GEAR O.D. (Factory Spec.):

1
1.335 to 1.337 in. (33.91 to 33.95 mm)

DIFFERENTIAL CASE I.D. (Factory Spec.):

1.339 to 1.341 in. (34.00 to 34.06 mm)
2
2. Measure the differential pinion shaft O.D. and the
pinion gear I.D. to determine the pinion shaft to pinion
gear clearance (Fig. 26). Replace components as nec-
essary.

PINION SHAFT TO PINION GEAR CLEARANCE:

0.001 to 0.010 in. (0.03 to 0.25 mm)

PINION SHAFT O.D. (Factory Spec.):

0.550 to 0.551 in. (13.97 to 13.10 mm) Figure 25
1. Side gear 2. Differential case
PINION GEAR I.D. (Factory Spec.):

0.551 to 0.552 in. (13.10 to 14.02 mm)

3. Inspect all gears, shafts, bearings, cases, and cov-

ers for damage and wear. Replace components as nec-
essary.

Figure 26
1. Pinion shaft 2. Pinion gear

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 Installation
3
1. If the ring gear was removed from the differential
2
case, use medium strength Loctite thread locker and
tighten the mounting screws from 22 to 25 ft-lb (30 to
34 N–m). 1

2. Apply molybdenum disulfide lubricant (Three Bond

1901 or equivalent) to the splines and bearing surfaces
of the differential pinion gears, pinion washers and side
gears.

3. Install the side gear shims and side gears in their

original location in the differential case. Figure 27
1. Vise 3. Dial indicator
4. Place the differential pinion gears and pinion wash- 2. Differential gear case
ers in their original location in the differential case. Tem-
porarily install the differential pinion shaft.
More than 35% total tooth contact
5. Secure the differential case in a soft jawed vise. Posi-
tion a dial indicator on a tooth of the differential pinion
gear. Press the pinion and side gear against the differen-
tial case and measure the pinion gear to side gear back-
lash (Fig. 27).

PINION GEAR TO SIDE GEAR BACKLASH: 1/3 to 1/2 of entire width

0.004 to 0.016 in. (0.10 to 0.40 mm) from small end of tooth

6. Adjust backlash by increasing or reducing side gear Figure 28

shim thickness.
12.Install differential gear assembly in right side axle
NOTE: Side gear shims are available in 0.043 in. (1.10 support half.
mm), 0.047 in. (1.20 mm) and 0.051 in. (1.30 mm) thick-
ness. 13.Coat a new o-ring with grease and install left side
axle support half. Tighten axle support case screws from
7. Apply gear marking compound, such as DyKemR 35 to 41 ft-lb (47 to 56 N–m).
Steel Blue lightly over several gear teeth.
14.Install input shaft/pinion gear assembly (see Input
8. While applying a light load to either side gear, rotate Shaft/Pinion Gear in this section of this manual).
either pinion gear until the side gears have made one
complete revolution. 15.Coat new o-rings with grease, align differential shaft
splines with differential gear assembly and slide differ-
9. Ideal tooth contact should cover more than 35% of ential shaft assemblies onto axle support (see Differen-
each tooth surface. The contact area should be in the tial Shafts in this section of this manual).
center of each tooth and extend 1/3 to 1/2 way across
each tooth from the toe (small) end (Fig. 28). 16.Install bevel gear case/axle case assemblies (see
Bevel Gear Case/Axle Case Assembly in this section of
10.Adjust side gear shims if necessary to correct tooth this manual).
contact. Recheck differential pinion gear to side gear
backlash if any changes are made.

11. After backlash and tooth contact have been ad-

justed, align the hole in the differential pinion shaft with
the hole in the differential case and install a new spring
pin.

4WD Rear Axle (Rev. G) Page 10.1 – 16 Groundsmaster 328–D

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 Pinion Gear to Ring Gear Engagement
The final position of the pinion gear is verified by using
the gear contact pattern method as described in the fol- PROFILE
TOP LAND
lowing procedure.

GEAR TOOTH DEFINITIONS (Fig. 29):

Toe – the portion of the tooth surface at the end to- TOE
LENGTHWISE
wards the center. BEARING
ARC
Heel – the portion of the gear tooth at the outer end. HEEL

Top Land – top surface of tooth.

1. Paint the teeth of the ring gear, both drive and coast
side, with a gear marking compound, such as DyKemR ROOT
Steel Blue.
Figure 29

2. Install the input shaft/pinion gear assembly into axle

case.
More than 35% total tooth contact
3. While applying a light load to the ring gear, rotate the
pinion gear in the direction of forward travel until the ring
gear has made one complete revolution.

Ideal tooth contact observed on the ring gear should

cover more than 35% of each tooth surface. The contact
area should be in the center of each tooth and extend 1/3 1/3 to 1/2 of entire width
from small end of tooth
to 1/2 way across each tooth from the toe end (Fig. 30).

Adjustments to the gear contact position are made by Figure 30

moving the input shaft/pinion gear (bearing case shims)

or by moving the differential gear case (differential bear-
ing shims) (Fig. 31). 4 3

NOTE: Bearing case shims are available in 0.004 in.

(0.10 mm) and 0.008 in. (0.20 mm) thickness.

NOTE: Differential bearing shims are available in

0.004 in. (0.10 mm), 0.008 in. (0.20 mm) and 0.016 in.
(0.40 mm) thickness.

Study the different contact patterns (Figs. 32 and 33)

and correct gear engagement as necessary.
2
NOTE: When making changes, note that two variables
are involved (see Gear Pattern Movement Summary in
1
this section of this manual).

Example: If the pinion gear to ring gear backlash is set

Figure 31
correctly to specifications and the bearing case shim is 1. Input shaft/pinion gear 4. Differential bearing
changed to adjust tooth contact, it may be necessary to 2. Bearing case shims shims
readjust backlash to the correct specification before 3. Differential gear case
checking the contact pattern.

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 Gear Pattern Movement Summary
Heel Contact Base Contact
Every gear has a characteristic pattern. The illustrations
show typical patterns only and explain how patterns shift
as gear location is changed.

1. If contact is toward the heel or base of the gear (Fig.

32):

A. Install thicker or additional bearing case shim(s)

to move pinion shaft toward ring gear.
Figure 32
B. Install thinner or remove differential bearing
shim(s) to move ring gear backward.
Toe Contact Tip Contact
C. Repeat until proper tooth contact and pinion gear
to ring gear backlash are correct.

2. If contact is toward the toe or tip of the gear (Fig. 33):

A. Install thinner or remove bearing case shim(s) to

move pinion shaft away from ring gear.

B. Install thicker or additional differential bearing

shim(s) to move ring gear forward. Figure 33
C. Repeat until proper tooth contact and pinion gear
to ring gear backlash are correct.

4WD Rear Axle (Rev. G) Page 10.1 – 18 Groundsmaster 328–D

(Dae Dong Axle)

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 Bidirectional Clutch

RIGHT

FRONT

10 9 1
3
5 4
11 6
7 12
8
Anti–seize
Loctite #242 Lubricant

Figure 34
1. Clutch locator adapter 5. Spacer 9. Lock washer (6 used)
2. Cap screw (2 used) 6. Flat washer 10. Socket head screw (6 used)
3. Cap screw (2 used) 7. Lock washer 11. Drive shaft assembly
4. Bidirectional clutch 8. Cap screw 12. Rear axle assembly

Removal (Fig. 34) Installation (Fig. 34)

1. Park machine on a level surface, lower cutting deck 1. Apply anti–seize lubricant to splines of rear axle in-
(or implement), stop engine, engage parking brake and put shaft.
remove key from the ignition switch.
2. Slide bidirectional clutch onto rear axle input shaft.
2. Drain oil from bidirectional clutch (see Traction Unit Align notches in clutch housing with cap screw heads on
Operator’s Manual). axle clutch locator adapter.

3. Remove six (6) socket head screws (item 10) and 3. Apply Loctite #242 (or equivalent) to threads of cap
lock washers (item 9) that secure driveshaft to bidirec- screw (item 8) that secures clutch to rear axle shaft.
tional clutch on rear axle. Position end of driveshaft
away from clutch. 4. Secure clutch to axle shaft with cap screw, lock
washer (item 7), flat washer (item 6) and spacer (item 5).
4. Remove cap screw (item 8), lock washer (item 7) and
flat washer (item 6) that secure clutch to rear axle. Lo- 5. Position end of driveshaft to bidirectional clutch on
cate and retrieve spacer (item 5). rear axle. Secure driveshaft to clutch with six (6) socket
head screws (item 10) and lock washers (item 9).
5. Pull bidirectional clutch from rear axle input shaft.
6. Fill clutch with oil to the proper level (see Traction
Unit Operator’s Manual).

Groundsmaster 328–D Page 10.1 – 19 4WD Rear Axle (Rev. G)

(Dae Dong Axle)

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 Bidirectional Clutch Service

Hylomar Jointing
Compound DRIVE 1
SHAFT
4

10

12 3
REAR 2
AXLE

14 5

14 ft–lb
7 (19 N–m)
16 8
18
9

11

13

15

17

Figure 35
1. End plate 7. Phillips head screw w/o–ring 13. Oil seal
2. Socket head screw (6 used) 8. Hub 14. Bearing Housing
3. Oil seal 9. Needle bearing 15. Bearing
4. Snap ring 10. Thrust washer 16. Snap ring
5. Bearing 11. Wave spring 17. Retaining ring
6. Housing 12. Roller cage assembly 18. Oil seal

Disassembly (Fig. 35) 3. When installing oil seals, make sure that seal lips are
facing in.
1. Thoroughly clean exterior of clutch before disassem-
bly. 4. Apply Hylomar Jointing Compound (or equivalent) to
end plate (item 1) mating surface before installing end
2. Disassemble clutch using Figure 35 as a guide. plate.

Assembly (Fig. 35) 5. Secure end plate with six (6) socket head cap
screws. Torque screws 14 ft–lb (19 N–m).
1. Lightly lubricate clutch components with clean Mobil
Fluid 424 before assembly.

2. Assemble clutch using Figure 35 as a guide.

4WD Rear Axle (Rev. G) Page 10.1 – 20 Groundsmaster 328–D

(Dae Dong Axle)

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 Chapter 11

72″ Cutting Units

Table of Contents
SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Caster Arm Bushing Replacement . . . . . . . . . . 11
GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Rear Caster Wheel Bearing Service . . . . . . . . . 12
Grass Deflector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Front Caster Wheel Bearing Service . . . . . . . . . 13
TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Separating Cutting Unit From Traction Unit. . . . 14
ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Mounting Cutting Unit to Traction Unit. . . . . . . . 16
Height of Cut Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Push Arm and Torsion Spring Service . . . . . . . . 18
Mismatch Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Gearbox Removal and Installation . . . . . . . . . . 21
Belt Tension Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Gearbox Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
REPAIRS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Blade Spindle Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Blade Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Belt Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 11 - 1 Table of Contents

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 Specifications

ITEM SPECIFICATION
__________________________________________________________________________________________
Cutting width 71.5 inch
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Height of cut range 1 to 4 inch

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Height of cut adjustment 0.5 inch increments

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Blade bolt torque 75 to 100 ft-lb (left-hand thread)

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Spindle nut torque 140 - 160 ft-lb.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Spindle end play .006 inch max.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Spindle rolling torque 10 in-lb max.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Gearbox lubricant SAE 80W90, API GL-5 gear lube

Figure 1

1. Filler plug
2. Check plug

Specifications Page 11 - 2 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 General Information

Grass Deflector

WARNING
The grass deflector (Fig. 2) is a safety device
that diverts grass and other foreign objects
being discharged downward. WE STRONGLY
RECOMMEND THAT THE DEFLECTOR BE IN ITS
NORMAL OPERATING POSITION WHENEVER THE
CUTTING UNIT IS ENGAGED. NEVER OPERATE
CUTTING UNIT WITH THE DEFLECTOR REMOVED
FROM THE CUTTING UNIT OR TIED/BLOCKED IN
A RAISED POSITION, SINCE THE BLADES COULD
THEN THROW DEBRIS A CONSIDERABLE DIS-
TANCE WITH SUFFICIENT FORCE TO CAUSE PER- Figure 2
SONAL INJURY OR DAMAGE TO PROPERTY. If
the grass deflector is damaged, repair or re­ 1. Deflector in lowest position
place the affected part(s).

NOTE: The deflector is spring loaded into its

downward normal operating position, but the
operator can temporarily swing it out of the
way to facilitate loading in a trailer or when
otherwise necessary.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 11 - 3 General Information

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 Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting Page 11 - 4 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Adjustments

Height of Cut Adjustment (Fig. 3, 4)

The height of cut is adjustable from 1 to 4 inches in
1/2 inch increments, by adding or removing an equal
number of spacers on the front and rear caster forks.
The height of cut chart below gives the combinations of
spacers to use for all height of cut settings.

NOTE: 1/4 inch spacers are available and can be or-

dered from your Toro distributor by Toro Part No.
27-1040. (Quantity - 8).

Height of Cut Spacers Below Caster Arms

inches mm Front Rear

1 25 0 0
1-1/2 38 1 1
2 51 2 2
2-1/2 64 3 3
3 76 4 4
3-1/2 89 5 5
4 102 6 6

Figure 3
NOTE: A more optimum cutting appearance of the turf
can be achieved in the lower heights of cut by lowering 1. Lynch pin 3. Thrust washer
the rear of the cutting unit. Accomplish this by relocating 2. Spacers 4. Large (front)
the rear caster wheel axles in the upper hole of the 4. caster spindle
caster forks. Replace the axles into the lower caster fork
holes for higher height of cut settings where optimum
cutting appearance is not required.

IMPORTANT: Do not attempt to cut off more than

one inch of the grass blades in the one (1) inch
height of cut setting with the rear of the cutting unit
lowered, as this may cause the engine to labor
excessively.

1. Start the engine and raise cutting unit so front caster

height of cut can be changed. Stop engine after cutting
unit is raised. Rear caster height of cut can be changed
with cutting unit lowered.
Figure 4
2. Squeeze back of wire and rotate wire on lynch pin.
Pull pin out of caster spindle. Slide spacers onto the 1. Lynch pin 4. Washer
caster spindle to get desired height of cut. Then slide 2. Small (rear) caster 5. For 1 in. H.O.C. only
washer onto spindle. 3. Spacers

3. Push caster spindle through caster arm. Slide any

remaining spacers onto spindle. Install lynch pin to
retain parts in place.

NOTE: When cutting unit is used in 1 inch or 1-1/2 inch

height of cut setting, front and rear rollers must be
positioned in the upper bracket holes.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 11 - 5 Adjustments

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 Checking and Correcting Mismatch of Blades (Fig. 5)
If there is mismatch between the blades, the grass will 7. Remove cap screws, flat washers, lock washers and
appear streaked when it is cut. This problem can be nuts from outer spindle, in the area where shims must
corrected by making sure the blades are straight and all be added. To raise or lower the blade, add a shim, Part
blades are cutting on the same plane. No. 3256-24, between spindle housing and bottom of
cutting unit. Continue to check alignment of blade and
1. Using a 3 foot long carpenters level, find a flat surface add shims until tips of blades are within the required
on the shop floor. dimension.

2. Set rear caster wheels in the upper hole of caster IMPORTANT: Do not use more than three shims at
forks and adjust height of cut so all six height of cut any one hole location. Use decreasing numbers of
spacers are below the caster arm. shims in adjacent holes if more than one shim is
added to any one hole location.
3. Lower cutting unit onto flat surface. Remove covers
from top of cutting unit. Loosen idler pulleys to release 8. Tension idler pulleys against all three belts. Also
tension against all three belts. install covers to top of cutting unit.

4. Rotate blades until the ends face forward and back- 9. Set rear caster wheels in lower holes in caster forks
ward. Measure from floor to front tip of cutting edge and if height of cut is above one (1) inch and adjust height
remember this dimension. Then rotate same blade so of cut.
opposite end is forward and measure again. The differ-
ence between dimensions must not exceed 1/8 inch. If 10. Mount cutting unit to traction unit: refer to Mounting
difference exceeds 1/8 inch, replace the blade because Cutting Unit To Traction Unit
it is bent. Make sure to measure all three blades.

5. Compare measurements of outer blades with the

center blade. Center blade must not be more than 3/8
inch lower than outer blades. If center blade is more than
3/8 inch lower than outer blades, proceed to step 7 and
add shims between spindle housing and bottom of
cutting unit.
1/8"
6. Rotate blades so tips line up with one another. Tips
of the adjacent blades must be within 1/8 inch of each
other. If tips are not within 1 /8 inch of each other, Figure 5
proceed to step 7 and add shims between spindle
housing and bottom of cutting unit.

Adjustments Page 11 - 6 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Belt Tension Adjustment (Fig. 6)
1. Lower the cutting unit to the floor and shut off the
engine. Engage the parking brake.

2. Remove the deck covers from the top of the cutting

unit.

3. Loosen the idler pulley for the belt being adjusted and
move idler into belt using a pry bar, until you get the
proper tension. Tighten the idler pulley flange nut.

Recommended tension is 3/8 inch deflection when

an eight (8) pound load is applied to the center of the
25 inch span between pulleys. Deflection is meas- Figure 6
ured at the position on the belt where the load is
applied. 1. Lower belt idler 2. Flange nut

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 11 - 7 Adjustments

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 Repairs

Blade Service (Fig. 7, 8, 9)

The blade must be replaced if a solid object is hit, the
blade is out of balance, worn or bent. Always use
genuine TORO replacement blades to ensure safety
and optimum performance. Never use blades made by
other manufacturers because they could be dangerous.

Do not try to straighten a blade that is bent,

and never weld a broken or cracked blade.
Always use a new TORO blade to assure
continued safety certification of the product.

Figure 7
1 . Raise cutting unit to highest position, shut the engine
off and engage parking brake. Block cutting unit to
prevent it from falling accidentally.

2. Grasp end of blade using a rag or thickly padded

glove. Remove special screw, belleville washer and
blade from spindle assembly.

NOTE: The special screw has left hand thread.

3. To install the blade, assemble parts in reverse order,

and make sure the blade sail is facing up. Tighten
special screw to 75 to 100 ft-lb.

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 Inspecting and Sharpening Blade

1. Raise cutting unit to highest position, shut the engine

off and engage parking brake. Block cutting unit to
prevent it from falling accidentally.

2. Examine cutting ends of the blade carefully, espe-

cially where the flat and curved parts of the blade meet.
Since sand and abrasive material can wear away the
metal that connects the flat and curved parts of the
blade, check the blade before using the machine. If any
wear is noticed, replace the blade: refer to Removing
Cutter Blade.

Figure 8
WARNING
If the blade is allowed to wear, a slot will form
between the sail and flat part of the blade.
Eventually, a piece of the blade may break off
and be thrown from under the housing, pos­
sibly resulting in serious injury to yourself or
bystander.

3. Examine cutting edges of all blades. Sharpen the

cutting edges if they are dull or nicked. Sharpen only the
top side of the cutting edge and maintain the original
cutting angle to assure sharpness. The blade will remain
balanced if same amount of metal is removed from both
cutting edges. Figure 9

4. To check blade for being straight and parallel, lay

blade on level surface and check its ends. Ends of blade
must be slightly lower than the center, and cutting edge
must be lower than heel of the blade. This blade will
produce good quality of cut and require minimal power
from the engine. By contrast, a blade that is higher at
the ends than the center, or cutting edge higher than the
heel of the blade is warped or bent and must be re-
placed.

5. To install the blade, ,assemble parts in reverse order,

and make sure the blade sail is facing up. Tighten
special screw to 75 to 100 ft-lb.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 11 - 9 Repairs

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 Belt Replacement (Fig. 10)
1. Lower cutting unit to the shop floor, shut off the engine
and engage the parking brake. Remove covers on top
of cutting unit and set covers aside. Loosen idler pulleys
to release tension of belts.

2. Remove carriage bolts, lock washers and nuts hold-

ing gear box in place. Lift gear box off mounting plate
and lay it on top of cutting unit.

3. Remove belts from spindle pulleys.

4. Mount a belt on lower pulley groove of left spindle,

slide belt under belt idler mount plate and install around Figure 10
center spindle pulley. Tension belt by levering idler
pulley against belt and tighten idler pulley flange nut. 1. Lower belt idler 2. Flange nut

5. Place the right spindle belt under the gear box mount
plate and the opposite end on top of the right spindle
pulley. Place the left spindle belt under the gear box
mount plate and the opposite end on top of the left
spindle pulley. Mount the gear box and loop the belts
around the gear box pulley.

6. Feed the right and left spindle belts over the pulleys
by rotating the cutter blades. Tighten the gear box
mounting fasteners.

7. Tension idler pulleys against both belts. Install covers

on top of cutting unit.

Repairs Page 11 - 10 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Caster Arm Bushing Service (Fig. 11)
The caster arms have bushings pressed into the top and
bottom portion of the tube and after many hours of
operation, the bushings will wear. To check the bush-
ings, move caster fork back and forth and from side-to-
side. If caster spindle is loose inside the bushings,
bushings are worn and must be replaced.

1. Raise cutting unit and block it so it cannot fall acci-

dentally.

2. Remove lynch pin and spacers from top of caster

spindle.

3. Pull caster spindle out of mounting tube. Allow

spacer(s) and thrust washer to remain on bottom of Figure 11
spindle to assure same height of cut when caster spin-
dle is reinstalled.

4. Insert pin punch into top or bottom of mounting tube

and drive bushing out of tube. Also drive other bushing
out of tube. Clean inside of tubes to remove dirt.

5. Apply grease to inside and outside of new bushings.

Using a hammer and flat plate, drive bushings into
mounting tube.

6. Inspect caster spindle for wear and replace it if

damaged.

7. Push caster spindle through bushings and mounting

tube. Slide spacers onto spindle. Install lynch pin
through caster spindle to retain all parts in place.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 11 - 11 Repairs

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 Rear Caster Wheel Bearing Service (Fig. 12)
The rear caster wheels rotate on high quality roller
bearings which are supported by spanner bushings.
Even after many hours of use, provided that the bearing
was kept well-lubricated, bearing wear will be minimal.
However, failure to keep bearings lubricated will cause
rapid wear. A wobbly caster wheel usually indicates a
worn bearing.

1. Remove capscrew and locknut holding caster wheel

and (2) washers between caster fork.

2. Pull spanner bushing out of wheel hub.

3. Remove bushing from wheel hub and allow bearing

to fall out. Remove bushing from opposite side of wheel
hub.

4. Check the bearing, spanner and inside of wheel hub Figure 12

for wear. Replace defective parts.

5. To assemble the caster wheel, push bushing into

wheel hub. Slide bearing into wheel hub. Push other
bushing into open end of wheel hub to captivate the
bearing inside the wheel hub.

6. Carefully slide spanner through the bushings and

wheel hub.

7. Install caster wheel assembly and (2) washers be-

tween caster fork, and secure all parts in place with
capscrew and locknut.

8. Lubricate caster wheel bearing through grease fitting,

using No. 2 general purpose lithium grease.

Repairs Page 11 - 12 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Front Caster Wheel Bearing Service (Fig. 13)
The front caster wheels rotate on high-quality roller
bearings which are supported by spanner bushings.
Even after many hours of use, provided that the bearing
was kept well-lubricated, bearing wear will be minimal.
However, failure to keep bearings lubricated will cause
rapid wear. A wobbly caster wheel usually indicates a
worn bearing.

1. Remove capscrew and locknut holding caster wheel

and (2) washers between caster fork.

2. Pull spanner bushing out of wheel hub.

3. Remove bushing from wheel hub and allow bearing

to fall out. Remove bushing from opposite side of wheel
hub.

4. Check the bearing, spanner and inside of wheel hub Figure 13

for wear. Replace defective parts.

5. To assemble the caster wheel, push bushing into

wheel hub. Slide bearing into wheel hub. Push other
bushing into open end of wheel hub to captivate the
bearing inside the wheel hub.

6. Carefully slide spanner through the bushings and

wheel hub.

7. Install caster wheel assembly and (2) washers be-

tween caster fork, and secure all parts in place with
capscrew and locknut.

8. Lubricate caster wheel bearing through grease fitting,

using No. 2 general purpose lithium grease.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 11 - 13 Repairs

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 Separating Cutting Unit From Traction Unit (Fig. 14, 15, 16, 17)
1. Position machine on level surface, lower cutting unit
to the shop floor, shut engine off and engage parking
brake.

2. Remove self-tapping screws securing shield to top of

cutting unit and set shield aside.

3. Drive roll pin out of yoke and input shaft of gear box.
Also, loosen cap screws and lock nuts. Slide yoke off
the input shaft. If traction unit will be used without the
cutting unit, drive roll pin out of yoke at PTO pivot shaft
and remove entire universal shaft from traction unit.

Figure 14
DANGER
Do not start the engine and engage the PTO 1. PTO yoke 3. Roll pin
2. Yokes in phase 4. Capscrews & locknuts
lever when PTO shaft is not connected to gear
box on cutting unit. If engine is started and
PTO shaft is allowed to rotate, serious injury
could result.

4. Disconnect spring from lift cylinder cotter pin. Re-

move cotter pins and clevis pins securing lift chains to
lift arm.

Figure 15

1. PTO shield 4. Spring in 4th link

2. Self-tapping screws 5. Spring in cotter pin
3. Lift chain

Repairs Page 11 - 14 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 WARNING
Since the right hand push arm is spring­
loaded to about 100 pounds and left hand
push arm is spring-loaded to about 150
pounds, a helper is needed to release push
arms from cutting unit. Sudden release of the
push arms could cause injury.

5. Have a helper push down on the right push arm while

you remove the cap screws, flat washers, lock washers
and nuts securing ball joint mount to caster arm on Figure 16
cutting unit. Now the helper can carefully allow push arm
to move upward, which will gradually release the 100 1. R.H. push arm 5. Flange locknuts
pounds of spring load. 2. Caster arm 6. Jam nut
3. Capscrews & flatwashers 7. Ball joint
6. Have a helper push down on the left push arm while 4. Ball joint mount
you remove the cap screws, flat washers, lock washers
and nuts securing ball joint mount to mount bracket on
cutting unit. Now the helper can carefully allow push arm
to move upward which will gradually release the 150
pounds of spring load.

7. Roll the cutting unit away from the traction unit.

Figure 17

1. L.H. push arm 5. Caster arm

2. Ball joint 6. Flange locknuts
3. Ball joint mount 7. Jam nuts
4. Capscrews & locknuts

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 11 - 15 Repairs

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 Mounting Cutting Unit to Traction Unit (Fig. 18, 19, 20, 21)
1. Position machine on level surface and shut
engine off.

2. Move cutting unit into position in front of traction unit.

WARNING
Since the right hand push arm is spring­
loaded to about 100 pounds and left hand
push arm is spring-loaded to about 150
pounds, a helper is needed to push the push
arm down. Sudden release of the push arm
could cause injury.
Figure 18
3. Slide a large flat washer (1/2 I.D. x 1-1/4 in. O.D.) onto 1. R.H. push arm 5. Flange locknuts
both cap screws (7/16 - 14 x 3 in.). 2. Caster arm 6. Jam nut
3. Capscrews & flatwashers 7. Ball joint
4. Have a helper carefully push down on right hand push 4. Ball joint mount
arm until holes in ball joint mount line up with holes in
caster arm. Secure ball joint mount to caster arm with
two cap screws w/large flat washers, one flat washer
(15/32 I.D. x 59/64 in. O.D.), two lock washers and nuts
(7/16 - 14). Heads of cap screws and large flat washers
must be on outside of caster arm.

5. Slide flat washers (1 5/32 1. D. x 59/64 in. O.D.) onto

two cap screws (7/16 - 14 x 3 in.).

6. Have a helper carefully push down on left hand push

arm until holes in ball joint mount are in line with holes
in mount bracket on cutting unit. Immediately slide 4 x
4 in. block of wood between top of push arm and
underside of chassis. Figure 19

1. L.H. push arm 5. Caster arm

2. Ball joint 6. Flange locknuts
WARNING 3. Ball joint mount 7. Jam nuts
4. Capscrews & locknuts
Make sure wooden block does not slip out
accidentally.

7. Secure ball joint mount to mount bracket with two cap

screws, flat washers, and flange lock nuts (7/16 -14).
Heads of cap screws and flat washers must contact ball
joint mount.

Repairs Page 11 - 16 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 8. Line up holes in yoke and input shaft of gear box.
Slide yoke onto shaft and secure parts together with roll
pin (3/16 x 1-1/2 in.). Tighten (2) capscrews and
locknuts securing yoke to input shaft.

9. Mount PTO shield over input shaft and onto gear box
mounting plate with two self-tapping screws.

10. Attach lift chains to lift arm and cutting unit with six
(6) shackles, shackle pins (3/8 x 1-1/2 in.) and cotter
pins (1/8 x 3/4 in.). Adjust chain length so both become
tight at the same time when lifting lift arm.

11. Connect ends of tension spring between fourth link

of rear chain and eye of cotter pin that holds cylinder pin Figure 20
in place. Adjust length of chain so rear caster wheels
are off the ground in transport position. 1. PTO yoke 3. Roll pin
2. Yokes in phase 4. Capscrews & locknuts

Figure 21

1. PTO shield 4. Spring in 4th link

2. Self-tapping screws 5. Spring in cotter pin
3. Lift chain

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 11 - 17 Repairs

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 Push Arm and Torsion Spring Service (Fig. 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28)

Removing Push Arms,

Torsion Springs and Bushings

1. Separate cutting unit from traction unit and roll cutting

unit away from traction unit.

2. Have a helper push down on the left push arm while

you put a 4" x 4" block of wood between the chassis and
the top of the push arm, and across the full width of the
machine.

3. Loosen the large jam nut on the left-hand ball joint at

the end of the push arm. Remove the ball joint (mount
attached) from the push arm.
Figure 22
4. Remove the self-tapping screws holding the floor
plate to the main frame. Raise the floor plate and set it
aside.

5. Disconnect the right-hand brake cable from the brake

strut. Remove the jam nut holding the brake cabled in
the mount on the frame and slide the cable through the
hole in the push arm bracket.

6. Remove the cotter pin from the end of the parking

brake rod. Slide the rod out of the latch.

Figure 23

Figure 24

Repairs Page 11 - 18 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 7. Remove the cap screws, locknuts, carriage bolts, lock
washers and nuts holding the brake mount and pedal
assembly in place. Lay the brake mount and the pedal
assembly on the wheel.

8. Have a helper push down slightly on the left push arm

while you remove the block of wood between the push
arm and the chassis. Slowly and carefully allow the push
arm to move upward until all spring load is released.

9. Remove the cap screws, locknuts, support plate and

push arm bracket holding the left side of the push arm
and pivot shaft to the main frame.

10. Remove the cap screws, locknuts, reinforcement

and push arm bracket holding the right side of the push
arm and pivot shaft to the main frame. The entire push
arm and pivot shaft assembly should now be free of the
main frame. Figure 25

11. Drive the roll pins out of the pivot shaft and slide the
push arm assemblies off of the shaft.

12. Drive the pushing out of both push arm pivot tubes.
Clean the inside of the pivot tubes to remove all dirt and
other material.

Figure 26

Figure 27
®
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 Installing Push Arms,

Torsion Springs and Bushings

1. Apply grease to inside and outside of new bushings.

Using a hammer and flat plate, carefully drive the bush-
ings into the push arm pivot tubes. The bushings must
be flush with the end of the tube.

2. Inspect the torsion springs. If the springs are dam-

aged, use new springs when assembling the parts.

3. Slide the torsion springs onto the inside of the push

arm pivot tubes. Install the washers, push arms with
springs and push arm brackets onto the pivot shaft.
Install the roll pins to secure the parts in place. Figure 28

4. Raise the push arm and pivot shaft assembly into

position and secure it in place with cap screws, support
plate, reinforcement support and locknuts. Make sure
the springs contact the retainer plate on the push arms
and the underside of the frame.

5. Have a helper push down on the left push arm while

you place a 3 ft. long block of wood between the chassis
and to top of the push arms, across the full width of the
machine.

NOTE: After the wood block is installed, there should be

enough clearance for installing the ball joint into the front
of the push arm.

6. Thread jam nut fully onto the left-hand ball joint.

Screw the ball joint into the left-hand push arm until the
center of the ball joint is 2-3/8 inches away from the front
of the push arm. Do not tighten the jam nut until the deck
is mounted.

7. Install the brake mount and pedal assembly with cap

screws, locknuts, carriage bolts, lock washer and nuts.
Route the right-hand brake cable through the hole in the
right-hand push arm bracket. Connect the cable to the
brake strut with the clevis pin and the tension spring.
Hook the opposite end of the tension spring into the hole
in the side of the chassis. Also install the cable into the
mount on the frame.

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 Gearbox Removal and Installation (Fig. 29, 30)
Removing Gearbox and Drive Pulley

1. Lower the cutting unit, shut engine off and engage the
parking brake.

2. Remove shroud covering universal drive shaft. Dis-

connect drive shaft from gearbox. Remove belt covers
from top of cutting unit.

DANGER
Do not start the engine and engage the P.T.O.
when the P.T.O. shaft is not connected to the
gearbox. If engine is started and the P.T.O.
shaft is allowed to rotate, serious injury could
result.

3. Loosen idler pulleys for cutting unit drive belts and

Figure 29
remove belts from gearbox pulley.
1. Isolation mounts 6. Pulley assembly
4. Disassemble fasteners securing gearbox to cutting 2. Brackets 7. Metal straps
unit and remove gearbox. 3. Capscrews & lockwashers 8. Carriage bolts
4. Gear box 9. Flatwashers & nuts
5. Remove the set screws from the taper lock bushing. 5. Woodruff key 10. Taper lock
Install one setscrew into the hole that is threaded on the
side of taper lock. Tighten the setscrew until the taper
lock is loose from the inside of the pulley hub.

NOTE: Only one setscrew is used to loosen the

taper lock.

6. Slide the gearbox pulley and taper lock off of the

gearbox output shaft. Account for the woodruff key that
positions the pulley on the shaft, and remove the set-
screw from the side of the taper lock.

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 Installing Gearbox and Drive Pulley 10. Mount gearbox with brackets onto top of cutting unit.
Insert four (4) carriage bolts up from bottom of cutting
1. Install four (4) isolation mounts into two (2) brackets. unit and install flatwasher and nut on each bolt to secure
Use water or lubricant to ease installation. Install the gearbox. Tighten nuts to 20 - 26 ft-lb.
mounts from bottom of bracket.
11. Install drive belts onto gear box pulley and adjust
2. Install bracket on each side of gearbox with cap- idlers to tension belts.
screws and lockwashers. Tighten capscrews to a torque
of 20 - 26 ft-lb. 12. Install cutting unit covers.

3. To install the pulley, slide the taper lock - small end 13. Install drive shaft to gear box and secure with a new
first - into the pulley hub. roll pin.

4. Insert the woodruff key into the keyway in the gearbox 14. Remove the gear box fill plug and check plug. Add
shaft. Slide the pulley with the taper lock onto the SAE 80W90 API GL-5 gear lube until level is to the
gearbox shaft while aligning the key and keyway. bottom of the check plug hole. Install plugs in gear box.

NOTE: The large hub on the pulley must face away from
the gearbox, and like the taper lock, the pulley must
contact the shoulder on the gearbox shaft.

5. Rotate the pulley to get the non-threaded holes in the

taper lock to line up with the two threaded holes in the
hub of the gearbox pulley. Start threading the setscrews
into the two holes and tighten them alternately and
evenly until both setscrews are tight.

6. Using a brass drift pin or sleeve and a hammer, hit

the taper lock firmly. Now tighten the setscrews to 55
in-lb. Continue to hit the taper lock and tighten the set
screws until the 55 in-lb of torque will not turn the
setscrews.

7. Check the alignment of the gearbox with a spindle

pulley. Loosen and relocate the taper lock to adjust, if
necessary. Figure 30
8. Fill the recessed socket head in each setscrew, and 1. Isolation mounts 6. Pulley assembly
the other taper lock holes, with grease to prevent dirt 2. Brackets 7. Metal straps
from packing into the holes. 3. Capscrews & lockwashers 8. Carriage bolts
4. Gear box 9. Flatwashers & nuts
5. Woodruff key 10. Taper lock
9. Align holes in thin metal strip with the two front
gearbox mounting holes on base plate.

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 Gear Box Repair (Fig. 31, 32, 33)

Figure 31

Gear Box Disassembly 6. Remove bearing cups (Item 14) from cap by putting
a punch through the shaft bore and through the seal and
1. Drain lubricant from gear box. then tapping against the back of the bearing cup until
driven out of the cap.
2. Remove capscrews and lift out shaft and cap assem-
blies. 7. If the oil seal (Item 13) is removed, it will be destroyed.
To remove the oil seal, cut it out of the bore with a screw
3. Remove cap assemblies and bearing cones (Item 12) driver or chisel.
from shafts (Item 17, 19).
8. To remove the bearing cups (Item 3) from the housing
NOTE: Mark each gear (Item 10 and 18) so they are a slide hammer puller may be used, or if this is not
installed on the proper shaft (Item 17 or 19) when available, the bearing cups may be knocked out with a
re-assembled. punch by coming down through the opposite cap bore
and tapping against the back side of the bearing cup
4. Remove retaining rings (Item 7). until it comes out.

5. Press shafts (Item 17, 19) back through bearing 9. Remove the plugs (Item 2) from the housing.
cones (Item 9). When bearing cone is free, gears (Item
10, 18), keys (Item 8) and shims (Item 11) may be
removed from the shaft.

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 17

12 14 4, 5, 6

16

9
3
1

10

11

19

13

7 2 18 8

Figure 32

Gear Box Pre-Assembly cap with the open side toward the machined side of the
cap.
1. Start with one of the shafts (Item 17) and put one of
the gears (Item 10) over the shaft so the tooth side is 6. Install the bearing cup (Item 14) into the cap. Make
towards the turned end of the shaft. Align the keyway in sure the bearing cup is installed as shown in the illus-
the gear with the keyway in the shaft and install one of tration.
the keys (Item 8) in the keyway.
7. Repeat steps 5 - 6 with the other set of parts to
2. Install one set of shims (Item 11) onto the turned end complete the two cap assemblies.
of the shaft. Press one of the bearing cones (Item 9)
over the turned end of the shaft. Be sure the bearing 8. Take one of the shaft and gear assemblies and wrap
cone is installed as shown in the illustration (Fig. 42B). the end of the shaft with a piece of shim stock to keep
Install a retaining ring (Item 7) on the turned end of the from cutting the oil seal on the keyway or splines. Put
shaft. the cap assembly down over the shaft so the bearing
cone (Item 12) on the shaft mates with the bearing cone
3. Put one of the bearing cones (Item 12) over the other (Item 14) in the cap. Remove the shim stock from the
end of the shaft and down against the hub side of the shaft that was used to protect the seal.
gear. Be sure the bearing cone is installed as shown in
the illustration. 9. Press the bearing cups (Item 3) into both bearing
bores in the housing (Item 1). Make sure the cups are
4. Repeat steps 1 - 3 with the other set of parts to installed as shown in the illustration. Install the plugs
complete the assembly. (Item 2) into the tapped holes in the housing.

5. Put one of the caps (Item 16) down, with the machined
surface facing up. Install a new seal (Item 13) into the

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 Gear Box Final Assembly 4. The shaft should have a very slight amount of bearing
drag. If the shaft turns hard, the cap must be removed
1. Bearing drag is adjusted by the amount of gaskets and gasket(s) need to be added. If the shaft has no
(Item 4, 5, 6) used between the cap and housing ma- bearing drag, or has end play, the cap must be removed
chined surfaces. and gasket(s) taken out. The cap must be adjusted to
where the shaft has no end play and only a slight amount
2. Put two 0.015 in. gaskets on the machined surface of of bearing drag.
the housing, then install the shaft and cap assembly in
the housing so the bearing cone (Item 9) on the shaft 5. Repeat steps 1 - 4 with the other shaft and cap
assembly and bearing cup (Item 3) in the housing are assembly.
mating. Align the holes in the cap with the holes in the
gaskets and housing. 6. After installing the gear box on the cutting unit, fill it
with SAE 80W90 API GL-5 lubricant to the level of the
3. Install capscrews and tighten. check plug (see Maintenance section in this chapter).

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 Blade Spindle Service (Fig. 34, 35, 36, 37, 38)
Removing Spindle and 3. Remove belt from spindle to be serviced.
Bearings From Spindle Housing
4. Start the engine and raise the cutting unit. Turn the
1. Lower the cutting unit, shut the engine off and engage engine OFF and remove the key from the key switch.
the parking brake. Block up the cutting unit so it cannot fall accidentally.

2. Remove deck covers from top of cutting unit. Loosen 5. Remove the bolts (Item 13) and flange nuts (Item 8)
idler pulley(s) to release belt tension. securing spindle housing to deck. Slide spindle housing
assembly out the bottom of the cutting unit.

Figure 34

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 6. Remove the lock nut and flat washer retaining the
spindle pulley on the spindle shaft. Slide the pulley off of
4
the shaft.
NOTE: All three spindle housing assemblies are differ-
ent from one another. A spacer is located beneath the
right--hand pulley (Fig. 35).
7. If the spindle shaft will be replaced, remove the blade
bolt (left hand thread), belleville washer and blade from 3
the spindle shaft. Otherwise, the blade may be left on the 5
spindle shaft.
8. Press the spindle shaft out of the spindle housing us- 2 1
ing an arbor press. The small bearing spacer should re-
main on the spindle shaft as the shaft is being removed.
9. The seals will be removed next; however, notice the Figure 35
orientation of the seal lips. The lips of the lower seals 1. Left hand spindle 4. Left hand pulleu
face outward. On spindle assemblies that have the 2. Right hand spindle 5. Spacer
grease fitting on the housing (shown in Fig. 36), the lip 3. Right hand pulley
of the upper seal faces inward. On spindle assemblies
that have the grease fitting on the top of the spindle shaft
(shown in Fig. 34), the lip of the upper seal faces out-
ward. After noting orientation of seals, remove seals LOCK NUT
FLAT WASHER
from the spindle housing.
CENTER
10. Allow the bearings and small thick spacer to fall out SPINDLE
PULLEY
of the spindle housing.
11. Using a punch and hammer, drive both of the bearing UPPER
OIL SEAL
cups out of the spindle housing. Also, drive the large
BEARING
spacer out of the housing.
LARGE SPACER
12. A large snap ring is still inside the spindle housing SMALL SMALL SPACER
and it should remain there because it cannot be easily SNAP RING
LARGE
removed. SNAP RING

IMPORTANT: If new bearings will be installed into a

used spindle housing that has the original snap ring
installed, discard the large snap ring that came with
the bearings because it is not needed. However, GREASE
FITTING
new bearings with their matched spacer set and BEARING
snap ring must always be installed when the spindle
housing is being replaced. Replacement bearings LOWER
OIL SEAL
are sold only with a matched snap ring and spacer
set. These parts cannot be purchased separately.
CENTER
SPINDLE

BELLEVILLE
WASHER
SPECIAL SCREW
(LEFT HAND THREAD)

Figure 36

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 Installing Spindle, Bearings and Seals Into Spindle 8. Push the pulley onto the splines of the spindle shaft
Housing and retain the parts together with the large flat washer
and lock nut. Tighten the nut to 100 -- 120 ft--lb (136 --
IMPORTANT: If a new spindle housing is being 162 N--m). After tightening, rotate the spindle shaft to be
used, new bearings and the matched snap ring set sure that the shaft rotates freely.
must be installed; refer to step 1 below. Never use
the old bearings, spacer and snap ring with a new 9. Slide the pulley end of the spindle assembly through
spindle housing. By contrast, use only new bear- the hole in the cutting unit. Mount the spindle assembly
ings with cups and spacer -- not the large snap ring in place with the eight (8) hex flange head bolts and
because it is not required -- when installing bearings flange nuts.
into a used spindle housing that has the large snap 10. Install the belt and adjust idler to get proper belt ten-
ring installed; refer to step 2 below. sion.
1. Install the large snap ring into the groove in the bore 11. Reinstall the belt covers.
of the spindle housing. Assure the snap ring is seated in
the groove.
2. Using an arbor press, push the large spacer into the
ARBOR PRESS
top of the spidle housing; tightly against the snap ring.
The spacer must contact the snap ring to be sure of the
LARGE SPACER
correct assembly of the parts.
3. Thoroughly oil the bearing cups and using an arbor
press, push the bearing cups, smallest inside diameter
first , into the top and bottom of the spindle housing. The BEARING
CUP LARGE
top bearing cup must contact the spacer that was SNAP RING
installed in step 2, and the bottom bearing cup must con-
tact the large snap ring to be sure of the correct assem-
bly of parts. Insure that the assembly is correct be SUPPORT
supporting the first cup and pressing the second against
it. Figure 37
4. Install the lower bearing and the lower oil seals into
the bottom of the spindle housing. Remember, the bot-
tom seals must have the lip facing outward, not toward
the inside of the spindle housing.
5. Check the spindle shaft to make sure it is free of burrs
and nicks that could possibly cut the seals. Thoroughly
lubricate the spindle shaft and seal lips.
6. Slide the small, thick spacer into the spindle housing.
Then, install the upper bearing and seal into the top of
the spindle housing. On spindle assemblies that have
the grease fitting on the housing (shown in Fig. 36), the
lip of the upper seal faces inward. On spindle assem-
blies that have the grease fitting on the top of the spindle
shaft (shown in Fig. 34), the lip of the upper seal faces Figure 38
outward.
7. Slide the bearing spacer onto the spindle shaft. Care-
fully slide the spindle shaft up through the spindle hous-
ing. The bottom seal and bearing spacer should fit
together when the spindle is installed.

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 Chapter 12

Triflex® 88″ Cutting Unit

Table of Contents
SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 REPAIRS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Blade Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Grass Deflectors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Belt Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Caster Arm Bushing Replacement . . . . . . . . . . 17
ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Rear Caster Wheel Bearing Service . . . . . . . . . 18
Mechanical Door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Front Caster Wheel Bearing Service . . . . . . . . . 19
Skid and Roller Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Separating Cutting Unit From Traction Unit. . . . 20
Height of Cut Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Mounting Cutting Unit to Traction Unit. . . . . . . . 21
Mismatch Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Push Arm and Torsion Spring Service . . . . . . . . 23
Belt Tension Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Gear Case Removal and Installation. . . . . . . . . 26
Wing Pulley Section Brake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Gear Case Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Wing Shaft End Play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Blade Spindle Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Wing Lift Cylinders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Wing Stop Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

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 Specifications

ITEM SPECIFICATION
__________________________________________________________________________________________
Cutting width 88 inches
Center section only 54 inches
With one wing disengaged 71 inches
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Height of cut range 1 to 4 inches

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Height of cut adjustment 0.5 inch increments

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Blade bolt torque 85 to 110 ft-lb

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Spindle nut torque 140 - 160 ft-lb.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Spindle end play .006 inch max.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Spindle rolling torque 10 in-lb max.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Gear case lubricant SAE 80W90, API GL-5 gear lube

Figure 1

1. Filler plug
2. Check plug

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 General Information

Grass Deflectors

WARNING
The grass deflectors (Fig. 2) are safety de­
vices that divert grass and other foreign ob­
jects being discharged downward. WE
STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT THE DEFLEC-
TORS BE IN THEIR NORMAL OPERATING POSI-
TION WH ENEVER THE CUTTING UNIT IS
ENGAGED. NEVER OPERATE CUTTING UNIT
WITH THE DEFLECTORS REMOVED FROM THE
CUTTING UNIT OR TIED/BLOCKED IN A RAISED
POSITION, SINCE THE BLADES COULD THEN
THROW DEBRIS A CONSIDERABLE DISTANCE
WITH SUFFICIENT FORCE TO CAUSE PERSONAL
INJURY OR DAMAGE TO PROPERTY. If a grass
deflector is damaged, repair or replace the Figure 2
affected part(s).
1. Grass deflector (2)

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 Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting Page 12 - 4 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Adjustments

Mechanical Door (Fig. 3)

On each side of the deck center section is a mechanical
door that opens and closes as the wing sections are
lowered and raised. The doors open to provide overlap
of the cutter blades when the wing units are down. The
doors close to provide safety and protection when the
wing units are raised.

To adjust mechanical door, disconnect threaded rod

from the door by removing cotter pin. Loosen the jam
nut and turn the rod in or out so that the bottom of the
door is 1/4 inch up from the bottom of the deck side
panel when the wing is fully raised. Tighten jam nut and
install the cotter pin. Figure 3

1. Threaded rod 4. Jam nut

2. Mechanical door 5. 1/4" (6 mm) gap
3. Cotter pin

Skid and Roller Adjustment (Fig. 4, 5)

When height of cut is set or changed, skids and anti-
scalp rollers should also be adjusted (adjust on a hard
level surface).

1 inch height of cut – skids all the way up.

1-1/2 inch height of cut – skids 3/8 inch to 1/2 inch

off the ground.

2-1/2 inch height of cut – skids all the way down.

Figure 3

1. Skid adjustment 2. Anti-scalp roller adjustment

When height of cut is set at 1 to 1-1/2 inches, the center

anti-scalp roller and the two ball rollers on the front of
the deck should be in the upper position. when the
height of cut is 2 to 4 inches the rollers should be in the
lower position.

Figure 3

1. Center anti-scalp roller 2. Upper and lower holes

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 Height of Cut Adjustment (Fig. 6, 7, 8)
The height of cut is adjustable from 1 to 4 inches in
1/2 inch increments, by adding or removing an equal
number of spacers on the front and rear caster forks.
The height of cut chart below gives the combinations of
spacers to use for all height of cut settings.

Height of cut Spacers Below Caster Arms

inches mm Front Rear

1 25 0 0
1-1/2 38 1 1
2 51 2 2
2-1/2 64 3 3
3 76 4 4
3-1/2 89 5 5
4 102 6 6

NOTE: A more optimum cutting appearance in the 1 inch

height of cut setting can be achieved by lowering the
rear of the cutting unit. Do this by relocating the rear
caster wheel axles in the upper holes of the caster forks.
Install the axles into the lower caster fork holes for
settings above 1 inch.

IMPORTANT: The rear caster wheel mounting hole

in use must be towards the rear of the deck. This is
necessary to provide adequate clearance between
Figure 6
the caster wheel and the mechanical door. If neces­
sary, the caster fork assembly should be removed 1. “U” spacers (6) 3. Caster wheel axle holes
from the square tube and turned around so that the 2. Spacer opening 4. Mechanical door
mounting hole with the axle through it is toward the
rear. The caster wheel grease fittings should always
face outward.

IMPORTANT: Do not attempt to cut off more than

one inch of the grass blades in the one (1) inch
height of cut setting with the rear of the cutting unit
lowered, as this may cause the engine to labor
excessively.

1. Start the engine and raise cutting unit so height of cut

can be changed. Stop engine after cutting unit is raised.

2. Squeeze back of wire and rotate wire on lynch pin.

Pull pin out of caster spindle. Slide spacers onto the
caster spindle to get desired height of cut. Then slide
washer onto caster shaft (front only).

3. Push caster shaft through caster arm. Slide any Figure 7

remaining spacers onto spindle. Install lynch pin to
1. Thrust washer 3. Spacers (6)
retain parts in place. Always have the same number of 2. Lynch pin 4. Wire spring
spacers on each caster when adjusting height of cut.

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 IMPORTANT: All six “U” shaped spacers must be on
rear square caster shafts – if one is left off,
remaining spacers will not stay in position during
operation. Always install spacers on caster shafts
with the spacer opening facing forward or to the
rear. Never install with the spacer facing the side or
middle of the deck (the arrow on the spacer should
be in the same direction as the pin).

NOTE: On front caster shafts, insert lynch pin in front

side of shaft with caster wheels in position as if deck
were traveling in forward direction. When inserted from
the front, the wire loop is less likely to be flipped up
during operation, causing the pin to fall out.

IMPORTANT: The thrust washer – not the spacers –

must contact bottom of front carrier frame tube.
Figure 8

1. Rear caster spacers 2. Hooked over plate

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 Checking and Correcting Mismatch of Blades (Fig. 9, 10)
If there is mismatch between the blades, the grass will Center Section:
appear streaked when it is cut. This problem can be
corrected by making sure the blades are straight and all 7. Remove locknuts from spindle, in the area where
blades are cutting on the same plane. shims must be added. To lower a blade, add a shim,
Part No. 3256-24, between spindle housing and bottom
1. Put the deck into position on a flat 4 x 8 foot sheet of of cutting unit. Continue to check alignment of blade and
plywood that is at least 3/4 inch thick. add shims until tips of blades are within the required
dimension.
IMPORTANT: If the rear caster wheel axle is in the
lower hole, put a 3/4 inch block under each front IMPORTANT: Do not use more than three (3) shims
caster wheel to level the deck. This is not necessary at any one hole location. Use decreasing numbers
if the rear caster wheel axle is in the upper hole. of shims in adjacent holes of more than one shim is
added to any one hole location.
2. Adjust height of cut so all six (6) height of cut spacers
are below the caster arm (highest height of cut). Wing Sections:

3. Lower cutting unit onto flat surface. 8. Raise or lower hinge bushing brackets and/or adjust
front and rear stops to achieve proper blade match and
4. Rotate blades until the ends face forward and back- height of cut. Each wing section should rest against the
ward. Measure from floor to front tip of cutting edge and front and back stops. A 1/2 inch gap between the wing
record this dimension. Then rotate same blade so op- section and the center section should be maintained.
posite end is forward and measure again. The difference Torque fasteners to 65 ft-lb. Adjust wing lift cylinders and
between dimensions must not exceed 1/8 inch. If differ- belt tension after making wing adjustments. Install cov-
ence exceeds 1/8 inch, replace the blade because it is ers on top of cutting unit.
bent. Make sure to measure all five (5) blades.

5. Rotate blades until the ends face forward and back-

ward. Measure and record the dimensions from floor to
tips of blades at the front and the rear. Rotate blades
until ends face side to side. Measure and record dimen-
sions from floor to tips of blades at each end of blades.
Compare measurements of all five blades. the maxi-
mum difference between any two adjacent blades 1/8"
should not exceed 1/4 inch. the maximum difference
between the highest and lowest blade should not ex-
ceed 3/8 inch. The three center section blades can be Figure 9
adjusted with shims (see Step 7). The wing blades can
be adjusted by repositioning the hinge bushing brackets
and/or the wing stops (see Step 8).

6. Rotate blades so tips line up with on another. Tips of

adjacent blades must be within 1/8 inch of each other.
If tips are not within 1/8 inch of each other, proceed to
step 7 and add shims between spindle housing and
bottom of cutting unit or Step 8 to adjust wing sections.

Figure 10

1. Adjustable stop 2. 1/2″ gap

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 Belt Tension Adjustment (Fig. 11, 12, 13)
NOTE: Check that belts are in good condition and
positioned correctly in the sheaves of the pulleys on the
center section and wing sections of the deck.

IMPORTANT: Check tension on new belts after 10

hours of use.

Wing Section:

NOTE: Block deck in raised position so that it cannot

accidentally lower while belts are being adjusted. Wings
should be in lowered position.

Loosen two (2) capscrews securing spring bracket (nuts

are located under the deck). Slide the spring bracket so
that the rubber bumper at one end just contacts the edge Figure 11
of the idler arm and tighten the nuts under the deck to
secure the spring bracket. With the spring bracket in this 1. Spring bracket retaining nuts
position the belt is properly tensioned.

Figure 12

1. Rubber bumper 3. Idler pulley bolt

2. Spring bracket

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 12 - 9 Adjustments

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 Center Section:

NOTE: Spring tension is only 10 to 15 lbs. on the wing

section, but is 80 to 90 lbs. on the center section,
requiring the use of a threaded rod for adjustments.

1. Loosen nuts securing the spring bracket to the deck.

Loosen the jam nut on the threaded rod.

2. Adjust the spring bracket so that the lip on the spring

bracket just contacts the rubber stop on the idler arm.
Use the threaded rod to make belt adjustments. Tighten
the capscrews and nuts securing the spring bracket in
position and tighten the jam nut on the threaded rod.

3. Be sure all belt guides are in the correct position and

secured to the deck before operating the cutting unit.
Figure 13
IMPORTANT: If there is a gap of more than 3/16 inch
between the rubber stop and the idler arm a belt 1. Threaded rod 4. Tensioning nut
adjustment is necessary. 2. Spring bracket nuts 5. Jam nut
3. Rubber stop
IMPORTANT: Too much tension on the belt will
cause early belt failure.

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 Wing Pulley Brake (Fig. 14)
Raise wing to be adjusted, 15 degrees (use a magneti-
cally mounted compass) and loosen brake pad cap-
screws with an Allen wrench. Push brake pad against
pulley with one hand and tighten capscrews with the
other hand.

NOTE: Idler arm assembly is shimmed to center the

brake pad (vertically) in the pulley groove. Add washers
under the idler arm pivot hub as necessary.

Figure 14

1. Brake pad capscrews (2) per wing 3. Allen wrench

2. Brake pad 4. 15° angle

Wing Shaft End Play (Fig. 15)

Slotted holes in the hinge bracket allow for adjustment
of wing shaft end play. End play should be no more than
1/16 inch.

Figure 15

1. Slotted wing shaft bracket holes

2. Slotted lift cylinder bracket holes

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 12 - 11 Adjustments

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 Wing Lift Cylinders (Fig. 16, 17)
Slotted holes in the lift cylinder bracket allow for adjust-
ment of the wing lift cylinders. With the cylinder fully
extended manually pull the pivot pin outward. The pivot
pin should rest up against the outer edge of the pivot
hole on each wing section.

Tighten the bolts to a torque of 65 ft-lb. Once the cylinder

is in the correct position, adjust the wing vertical stop on
the top of the deck.

NOTE: If the wings do not raise all the way (perpendicu-

lar to the deck), the wing lift cylinders may need adjust-
ment. Adjust the wing stops after adjusting the wing lift
cylinders.
Figure 16

1. Slotted wing shaft bracket holes

2. Slotted lift cylinder bracket holes

Figure 17

1. Wing lift cylinder 3. Designed gap

2. Manually pull pin forward

Wing Stop Adjustment (Fig. 18)

1. Lower deck to floor, remove wing cover and raise
wings to 90° (perpendicular to deck). Block mechanical
door in fully raised position. Loosen jam nuts.

2. Pull up on mechanical door lift lever. Tighten the wing

bolt jam nuts by hand so that there is no gap between
the bolt head and the main deck surface.

3. Tighten jam nuts, lower wings and install covers.

Adjust mechanical door height if necessary.

Figure 18

1. Wing stop bolt 3. Jam nuts

2. Mechanical door lift lever 4. Main deck surface

Adjustments Page 12 - 12 Groundsmaster® 300 Series

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 Repairs

Blade Service (Fig. 19, 20, 21)

The blade must be replaced if a solid object is hit, the
blade is out-of-balance, worn or bent. Always use genu-
ine TORO replacement blades to ensure safety and
optimum performance. Never use blades made by other
manufacturers because they could be dangerous.

CAUTION
Do not try to straighten a blade that is bent,
and never weld a broken or cracked blade.
Always use a new TORO blade to assure
continued safety certification of the product.

1 . Raise cutting unit to highest position, shut the engine

off and engage parking brake. Block cutting unit to
prevent it from falling accidentally.
Figure 19
2. Grasp end of blade using a rag or thickly padded 1. Cutting blade 4. Flange bolts (6)
glove. Remove special screw, washer, anti-scalp cup 2. Mounting screw and washer 5. Spindle housing
and blade from spindle assembly. 3. Anti-scalp cup

3. To install the blade, assemble parts in reverse order,

and make sure the blade sail is facing up. Tighten
special screw to 85 to 110 ft-lb.

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 Inspecting and Sharpening Blade

1. Raise cutting unit to highest position, shut the engine

off and engage parking brake. Block cutting unit to
prevent it from falling accidentally.

2. Examine cutting ends of the blade carefully, espe-

cially where the flat and curved parts of the blade meet.
Since sand and abrasive material can wear away the
metal that connects the flat and curved parts of the
blade, check the blade before using the machine. If any
wear is noticed, replace the blade: refer to Removing
Cutter Blade.

Figure 20
WARNING
If the blade is allowed to wear, a slot will form
between the sail and flat part of the blade.
Eventually, a piece of the blade may break off
and be thrown from under the housing, pos­
sibly resulting in serious injury to yourself or
bystander.

3. Examine cutting edges of all blades. Sharpen the

cutting edges if they are dull or nicked. Sharpen only the
top side of the cutting edge and maintain the original
cutting angle to assure sharpness. The blade will remain
balanced if same amount of metal is removed from both
cutting edges. Figure 21

4. To check blade for being straight and parallel, lay

blade on level surface and check its ends. Ends of blade
must be slightly lower than the center, and cutting edge
must be lower than heel of the blade. This blade will
produce good quality-of-cut and require minimal power
from the engine. By contrast, a blade that is higher at
the ends than the center, or cutting edge higher than the
heel of the blade is warped or bent and must be re-
placed.

5. To install the blade, assemble parts in reverse order,

and make sure the blade sail is facing up. Tighten
special screw to 85 to 110 ft-lb.

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 Belt Replacement (Fig. 22, 23, 24, 25)
Wing Sections:

1. Lower cutting unit to shop floor, turn off engine and

remove key. Remove belt covers.

NOTE: To remove center section belt, the wing section

belts have to be removed first.

2. With the wing unit raised, loosen nuts on capscrews

holding the spring bracket from under the deck.

NOTE: Block deck in raised position so that it cannot

accidentally lower while belts belt tension is being ad-
justed. Wings should be in lowered position.

3. With spring tension relaxed, lower the wings. Loosen

or remove the idler pulley bolt to allow the belt to pass
between the belt guide and the idler pulley. Figure 22
4. Loosen or remove belt guides as necessary to allow 1. Spring bracket retaining nuts
removal of belts from remaining pulleys.

5. Put new belt into correct position in groove of pulley

on center section and wing section of deck, then tighten
idler pulley boot.

6. Replace or reposition all belt guides and adjust belt

tension.

7. Adjust wing pulley brake, then install covers.

IMPORTANT: Check new belt tension and brake

adjustment after initial 10 hours of operation.

Figure 23

1. Rubber bumper 3. Idler pulley bolt

2. Spring bracket

Figure 24

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 Center Section:

NOTE: Wing belts must be removed first.

1. Loosen capscrew nuts holding the spring bracket to

the deck. Loosen the threaded rod jam nut, then gradu-
ally loosen the tension nut to release the spring tension.

CAUTION
Loosen capscrew nuts holding the spring
bracket to the deck before loosening
threaded rod to avoid sudden movement of
the spring bracket.

2. With belt tension released, remove idler arm and belt

Figure 25A
guides as necessary and remove the belt.
1. Threaded rod 4. Tension nut
3. Position new belt correctly in the center section 2. Spring bracket nuts 5. Jam nut
pulleys. Replace and tighten the idler arm and guide. 3. Rubber stop

4. Be sure all belt guides are in the correct position and

secured to the deck and adjust belt tension by following
the procedure described above.

IMPORTANT: Check tension of new belts after initial

10 hours of operation.

IMPORTANT: If there is a gap of more than 3/16 inch

between the rubber stop and the idler arm a belt
adjustment is necessary.

IMPORTANT: Too much tension on the belt will

cause early belt failure.
Figure 25B

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 Caster Arm Bushing Service (Fig. 26)
The caster arms have bushings pressed into the top and
bottom portion of the tube and after many hours of
operation, the bushings will wear. To check the bush-
ings, move caster fork back and forth and from side-to-
side. If caster spindle is loose inside the bushings,
bushings are worn and must be replaced.

1. Raise cutting unit and block it so it cannot fall acci-

dentally.

2. Remove lynch pin and spacers from top of caster

spindle.

3. Pull caster spindle out of mounting tube. Allow

spacer(s) and thrust washer to remain on bottom of Figure 26
spindle to assure same height of cut when caster spin-
dle is reinstalled.

4. Insert pin punch into top or bottom of mounting tube

and drive bushing out of tube. Also drive other bushing
out of tube. Clean inside of tubes to remove dirt.

5. Apply grease to inside and outside of new bushings.

Using a hammer and flat plate, drive bushings into
mounting tube.

6. Inspect caster spindle for wear and replace it if

damaged.

7. Push caster spindle through bushings and mounting

tube. Slide spacers onto spindle. Install lynch pin
through caster spindle to retain all parts in place.

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 Rear Caster Wheel Bearing Service (Fig. 27)
The rear caster wheels rotate on high quality roller
bearings which are supported by spanner bushings.
Even after many hours of use, provided that the bearing
was kept well-lubricated, bearing wear will be minimal.
However, failure to keep bearings lubricated will cause
rapid wear. A wobbly caster wheel usually indicates a
worn bearing.

1. Remove capscrew and locknut holding caster wheel

and (2) washers between caster fork.

2. Pull spanner bushing out of wheel hub.

3. Remove bushing from wheel hub and allow bearing

to fall out. Remove bushing from opposite side of wheel
hub.

4. Check the bearing, spanner and inside of wheel hub Figure 27

for wear. Replace defective parts.

5. To assemble the caster wheel, push bushing into

wheel hub. Slide bearing into wheel hub. Push other
bushing into open end of wheel hub to captivate the
bearing inside the wheel hub.

6. Carefully slide spanner through the bushings and

wheel hub.

7. Install caster wheel assembly and (2) washers be-

tween caster fork, and secure all parts in place with
capscrew and locknut.

8. Lubricate caster wheel bearing through grease fitting,

using No. 2 general purpose lithium grease.

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 Front Caster Wheel Bearing Service (Fig. 28)
The front caster wheels rotate on high-quality roller
bearings which are supported by spanner bushings.
Even after many hours of use, provided that the bearing
was kept well-lubricated, bearing wear will be minimal.
However, failure to keep bearings lubricated will cause
rapid wear. A wobbly caster wheel usually indicates a
worn bearing.

1. Remove capscrew and locknut holding caster wheel

and (2) washers between caster fork.

2. Pull spanner bushing out of wheel hub.

3. Remove bushing from wheel hub and allow bearing

to fall out. Remove bushing from opposite side of wheel
hub.

4. Check the bearing, spanner and inside of wheel hub Figure 28

for wear. Replace defective parts.

5. To assemble the caster wheel, push bushing into

wheel hub. Slide bearing into wheel hub. Push other
bushing into open end of wheel hub to captivate the
bearing inside the wheel hub.

6. Carefully slide spanner through the bushings and

wheel hub.

7. Install caster wheel assembly and (2) washers be-

tween caster fork, and secure all parts in place with
capscrew and locknut.

8. Lubricate caster wheel bearing through grease fitting,

using No. 2 general purpose lithium grease.

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 Separating Cutting Unit From Traction Unit (Fig. 29)
1. Position machine on level surface, lower cutting unit 6. Have another person help push down on the right
to the shop floor, shut engine off and engage parking push arm while you remove the capscrews, flat washers
brake. and nuts securing ball joint mount to caster arm on
cutting unit. Now the person helping can carefully allow
2. Disconnect three (3) hydraulic lines at mounting push arm to move upward, which gradually releases the
bracket, located next to traction pedal, using quick 100 pounds of spring load.
disconnects. Immediately put attached rubber plugs in
disconnects on both the traction unit and deck hoses. 7. Have another person help push down on the left push
arm while you remove the capscrews, flat washers and
3. Remove PTO shield from top of cutting unit and set nuts securing ball joint mount to carrier frame on cutting
shield aside. unit. Now the person helping can carefully allow push
arm to move upward which will gradually release the
4. Drive roll pin out of yoke and input shaft of gear case. 150 pounds of spring load.
Loosen capscrews and nuts securing yoke to shaft.
Slide yoke off the input shaft. If traction unit will be used 8. Roll the cutting unit away from the traction unit.
without the cutting unit, drive roll pin out of yoke at PTO
pivot shaft and remove entire universal shaft from trac-
tion unit.

DANGER
Do not start the engine and engage the PTO
lever when PTO shaft is not connected to gear
case on cutting unit. If engine is started and
PTO shaft is allowed to rotate, serious injury
could result.

5. Disconnect spring from lift cylinder cotter pin. Re-

move cotter pins and clevis pins securing lift chains to
lift arm.

WARNING
Figure 29
Since the right hand push arm is spring­
loaded to approximately 100 pounds and left 1. Hose plugs 3. Yoke
hand push arm is spring-loaded to approxi­ 2. Quick disconnects 4. Roll pin
mately 150 pounds, another person is needed
to help release push arms from cutting unit.
Sudden release of the push arm could cause
injury.

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 Mounting Cutting Unit to Traction Unit (Fig. 30, 31, 32, 33)
1. Position machine on level surface and shut
engine off.

2. Move cutting unit into position in front of traction unit.

WARNING
Since the right hand push arm is spring­
loaded to about 100 pounds and left hand
push arm is spring-loaded to about 150
pounds, another person is needed to help
push the push arm down. Sudden release of
the push arm could cause injury.
Figure 30
3. To assure correct alignment, measure from the end 1. Lock nut 3. Push arm
of each push arm to the center line of the ball joint. Adjust 2. Ball joint
to 2-3/8 inches. If adjustment is required, leave the lock
nut loose.

4. Have a helper carefully push down on left hand push

arm until holes in bracket line up with holes in caster
arm. Immediately slide a 4 x 4 inch block of wood
between top of push arm and under side of chassis.

5. Secure mounting bracket to caster arm with mounting

hardware. Tighten bolts to a torque of 45 ft-lbs. Tighten
lock nut where ball joint connects to lift arm.

WARNING
Figure 31
Make sure wooden block does not slip out
accidentally. 1. Mounting bracket holes 3. Mounting hardware
2. Carrier frame holes

6. Have a helper carefully push down on right hand push

arm until holes in bracket line up with holes in caster
arm. Immediately slide a 4 x 4 inch block of wood
between top of push arm and under side of chassis.

7. Secure mounting bracket to caster arm with mounting

hardware. Bolts should be tighten to 45 ft-lbs. Tighten
lock nut where ball joint connects to lift arm.

Figure 32

1. Right push arm ball joint 3. Mounting hardware

2. Mounting bracket

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 IMPORTANT: The PTO shaft yokes must be exactly
in line with each other when outer PTO is installed
on splined shaft. Remove sleeve and change yoke
position if alignment is not correct. Misalignment of
the two yokes will shorten life of PTO shaft assem­
bly and cause unnecessary vibration when cutting
unit is operated.

8. Line up holes in yoke and input shaft of gear case.

Slide yoke onto shaft and secure parts together with roll
pin, capscrews and nuts.

9. Mount PTO shield over input shaft and onto gear case
mounting plate with two self tapping screws.

10. Attach three (3) lift chains to lift arm and cutting unit
with six (6) shackles, shackle pins and cotter pins.
Adjust chain length so that the front of the deck raises Figure 33
level (side to side). When main lift cylinder is fully
extended the left push arm should be just below the 1. PTO shaft yokes in phase 6. Front lift chains
frame stop (1/16 to 3/8 inch). Half chain link adjustments 2. Roll pin 7. Right push arm
can be made by switching mounting holes in push arm 3. Gear case input shaft 8. Carrier frame
brackets. Tie up extra chain links if additional length may 4. Tension spring 9. Left push arm
5. Rear lift chain
be needed in the future.

IMPORTANT: Improper chain adjustment could re­

sult in main deck lift arm damage if deck contacts
traction unit.

NOTE: As starting points use the following settings:

Right front chain – 10 links, lower bracket hole.
Left front chain – 14 links, lower hole
Rear chain – 10 links, upper and front holes

11. Adjust length of rear chain so rear caster wheels are

as far as possible from the ground but carrier frame does
not contact right push arm when deck is lifted.

CAUTION
Improper chain adjustment may result in the
deck contacting the traction pedal and forc­
ing it into reverse.

12. To check adjustment, stay in the driver’s seat, raise

the deck all the way and turn the key OFF. Set the
parking brake and then walk to the front of the traction
unit to see if the deck is contacting the linkage.

13. Connect ends of tension spring between fourth link

of rear chain and eye of cotter pin that holds cylinder pin
in place.

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 Push Arm and Torsion Spring Service (Fig. 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40)

Removing Push Arms,

Torsion Springs and Bushings

1. Separate cutting unit from traction unit and roll cutting

unit away from traction unit.

2. Have a helper push down on the left push arm while

you put a 4" x 4" block of wood between the chassis and
the top of the push arm, and across the full width of the
machine.

3. Loosen the large jam nut on the left-hand ball joint at

the end of the push arm. Remove the ball joint (mount
attached) from the push arm.
Figure 34
4. Remove the self-tapping screws holding the floor
plate to the main frame. Raise the floor plate and set it
aside.

5. Disconnect the right-hand brake cable from the brake

strut. Remove the jam nut holding the brake cabled in
the mount on the frame and slide the cable through the
hole in the push arm bracket.

6. Remove the cotter pin from the end of the parking

brake rod. Slide the rod out of the latch.

Figure 35

Figure 36

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 7. Remove the cap screws locknuts, carriage bolts, lock
washers and nuts holding the brake mount and pedal
assembly in place. Lay the brake mount and the pedal
assembly on the wheel.

8. Have a helper push down slightly on the left push arm

while you remove the block of wood between the push
arm and the chassis. Slowly and carefully allow the push
arm to move upward until all spring load is released.

9. Remove the cap screws, locknuts, support plate and

push arm bracket holding the left side of the push arm
and pivot shaft to the main frame.

10. Remove the cap screws, locknuts, reinforcement

and push arm bracket holding the right side of the push
arm and pivot shaft to the main frame. The entire push
arm and pivot shaft assembly should now be free of the
main frame. Figure 37

11. Drive the roll pins out of the pivot shaft and slide the
push arm assemblies off of the shaft.

12. Drive the pushing out of both push arm pivot tubes.
Clean the inside of the pivot tubes to remove all dirt and
other material.

Figure 38

Figure 39
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 Installing Push Arms,

Torsion Springs and Bushings

1. Apply grease to inside and outside of new bushings.

Using a hammer and flat plate, carefully drive the bush-
ings into the push arm pivot tubes. The bushings must
be flush with the end of the tube.

2. Inspect the torsion springs. If the springs are dam-

aged, use new springs when assembling the parts.

3. Slide the torsion springs onto the inside of the push

arm pivot tubes. Install the washers, push arms with
springs and push arm brackets onto the pivot shaft.
Install the roll pins to secure the parts in place. Figure 40

4. Raise the push arm and pivot shaft assembly into 1. Lock nut 3. Push arm
position and secure it in place with cap screws, support 2. Ball joint
plate, reinforcement support and locknuts. Make sure
the springs contact the retainer plate on the push arms
and the underside of the frame.

5. Have a helper push down on the left push arm while

you place a 3 ft. long block of wood between the chassis
and to top of the push arms, across the full width of the
machine.

NOTE: After the wood block is installed, there should be

enough clearance for installing the ball joint into the front
of the push arm.

6. Thread jam nut fully onto the left-hand ball joint.

Screw the ball joint into the left-hand push arm until the
center of the ball joint is 2-3/8 inches away from the front
of the push arm. Do not tighten the jam nut until the deck
is mounted.

7. Install the brake mount and pedal assembly with cap

screws, locknuts, carriage bolts, lock washer and nuts.
Route the right-hand brake cable through the hole in the
right-hand push arm bracket. Connect the cable to the
brake strut with the clevis pin and the tension spring.
Hook the opposite end of the tension spring into the hole
in the side of the chassis. Also install the cable into the
mount on the frame.

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 Gear Case Removal and Installation (Fig. 41, 42)
Removing Gear Case and Drive Pulley 4. Remove flange nuts and carriage bolts securing gear
case mount plate (Item 22) to cutting unit and remove
1. Lower the cutting unit, shut engine off and engage the plate and gear case.
parking brake.
5. Remove the set screws (Item 28) from the taper lock
2. Remove shroud (Item 20) covering universal drive bushing (Item 27). Install one setscrew into the hole that
shaft. Disconnect drive shaft from gear case. Remove is threaded on the side of taper lock. Tighten the set-
belt covers from top of cutting unit. screw until the taper lock is loose from the inside of the
pulley hub.

NOTE: Only one setscrew is used to loosen the

DANGER taper lock.
Do not start the engine and engage the P.T.O.
when the P.T.O. shaft is not connected to the 6. Slide the gear case pulley (Item 26) and taper lock
gear case. If engine is started and the P.T.O. (Item 27) off of the gear case output shaft. Account for
shaft is allowed to rotate, serious injury could the woodruff key (Item 24) that positions the pulley on
result. the shaft, and remove the setscrew from the side of the
taper lock.

3. Loosen belt tension and remove belt from gear case 7. Remove gear case from mount plate and remove
pulley. brackets (Item 18) from gear case.

Figure 41

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 Installing Gear Case and Drive Pulley Continue to hit taper lock and tighten set screws until
55 in-lb of torque will not turn the setscrews.
1. Install bracket (Item 18) on each side of gear case
with capscrews and lockwashers. Tighten capscrews to 6. Check alignment of gear case with a spindle pulley.
a torque of 20 - 26 ft-lb. Install gear case and bracket Loosen and relocate taper lock to adjust, if necessary.
assembly to mount plate (Item 22) with carriage bolts
and flange nuts. 7. Fill recessed socket head in each setscrew, and the
other taper lock holes, with grease to prevent dirt from
2. To install pulley (Item 26) and slide taper lock packing into the holes.
(Item 27), small end first, into pulley hub.
8. Mount gear case with brackets onto top of gear case
3. Insert woodruff key (Item 24) into keyway in gear case mount plate (Item 22) with carriage bolts and
shaft. Slide pulley with taper lock onto gear case shaft flange nuts.
while aligning key and keyway.
9. Mount gear case mount plate to cutting unit with
NOTE: Large hub on pulley must face away from gear carriage bolts and flange nuts.
case, and like the taper lock, the pulley must contact the
shoulder on the gear case shaft. 10. Install drive belt onto gear case pulley and adjust
belt tension.
4. Rotate pulley to get non-threaded holes in taper lock
to line up with the two threaded holes in hub of gear case 11. Install belt covers.
pulley. Start threading setscrews (Item 28) into the two
holes and tighten setscrews alternately and evenly until 12. Install drive shaft to gear box and secure with a new
both setscrews are tight. roll pin.

5. Using a brass drift pin or a sleeve and hammer, hit 13. Remove gear case fill plug and check plug. Add SAE
taper lock firmly. Now tighten setscrews to 55 in-lb. 80W90 API GL-5 gear lube until level is to the bottom of
check plug hole. Install plugs in gear case.

Figure 42

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 Gear Case Repair (Fig. 43, 44)

Figure 43

Gear Case Disassembly 6. Remove bearing cups (Item 14) from cap by putting
a punch through the shaft bore and through the seal and
1. Drain lubricant from gear case. then tapping against the back of the bearing cup until
driven out of the cap.
2. Remove capscrews and lift out shaft and cap
assemblies. 7. If the oil seal (Item 13) is removed, it will be destroyed.
To remove the oil seal, cut it out of the bore with a screw
3. Remove cap assemblies and bearing cones (Item 12) driver or chisel.
from shafts (Item 17, 19).
8. To remove the bearing cups (Item 3) from the housing
NOTE: Mark each gear (Item 10 and 18) so they are a slide hammer puller may be used, or if this is not
installed on the proper shaft (Item 17 or 19) when available, the bearing cups may be knocked out with a
re-assembled. punch by coming down through the opposite cap bore
and tapping against the back side of the bearing cup
4. Remove retaining rings (Item 7). until it comes out.

5. Press shafts (Item 17, 19) back through bearing 9. Remove the plugs (Item 2) from the housing.
cones (Item 9). When bearing cone is free, gears (Item
10, 18), keys (Item 8) and shims (Item 11) may be
removed from the shaft.

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 17

12 14 4, 5, 6

16

9
3
1

10

11

19

13

7 2 18 8

Figure 44

Gear Case Pre-Assembly cap with the open side toward the machined side of the
cap.
1. Start with one of the shafts (Item 17) and put one of
the gears (Item 10) over the shaft so the tooth side is 6. Install the bearing cup (Item 14) into the cap. Make
towards the turned end of the shaft. Align the keyway in sure the bearing cup is installed as shown in the illus-
the gear with the keyway in the shaft and install one of tration.
the keys (Item 8) in the keyway.
7. Repeat steps 5 - 6 with the other set of parts to
2. Install one set of shims (Item 11) onto the turned end complete the two cap assemblies.
of the shaft. Press one of the bearing cones (Item 9)
over the turned end of the shaft. Be sure the bearing 8. Take one of the shaft and gear assemblies and wrap
cone is installed as shown in the illustration (Fig. 42B). the end of the shaft with a piece of shim stock to keep
Install a retaining ring (Item 7) on the turned end of the from cutting the oil seal on the keyway or splines. Put
shaft. the cap assembly down over the shaft so the bearing
cone (Item 12) on the shaft mates with the bearing cone
3. Put one of the bearing cones (Item 12) over the other (Item 14) in the cap. Remove the shim stock from the
end of the shaft and down against the hub side of the shaft that was used to protect the seal.
gear. Be sure the bearing cone is installed as shown in
the illustration. 9. Press the bearing cups (Item 3) into both bearing
bores in the housing (Item 1). Make sure the cups are
4. Repeat steps 1 - 3 with the other set of parts to installed as shown in the illustration. Install the plugs
complete the assembly. (Item 2) into the tapped holes in the housing.

5. Put one of the caps (Item 16) down, with the machined
surface facing up. Install a new seal (Item 13) into the

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 Gear Case Final Assembly 4. The shaft should have a very slight amount of bearing
drag. If the shaft turns hard, the cap must be removed
1. Bearing drag is adjusted by the amount of gaskets and gasket(s) need to be added. If the shaft has no
(Item 4, 5, 6) used between the cap and housing ma- bearing drag, or has end play, the cap must be removed
chined surfaces. and gasket(s) taken out. The cap must be adjusted to
where the shaft has no end play and only a slight amount
2. Put two 0.015 in. gaskets on the machined surface of of bearing drag.
the housing, then install the shaft and cap assembly in
the housing so the bearing cone (Item 9) on the shaft 5. Repeat steps 1 - 4 with the other shaft and cap
assembly and bearing cup (Item 3) in the housing are assembly.
mating. Align the holes in the cap with the holes in the
gaskets and housing. 6. After installing the gear box on the cutting unit, fill it
with SAE 80W90 API GL-5 lubricant to the level of the
3. Install capscrews and tighten. check plug.

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 Blade Spindle Service (Fig. 45, 46, 47)
Removing Spindle Housing Assembly

1. Lower the cutting unit, shut the engine off and engage
the parking brake.

2. Remove deck covers from top of cutting unit. Release

belt tension. Remove belt from spindle to be serviced.

3. Start the engine and raise the cutting unit. Turn the
engine OFF and remove the key from the key switch.
Block up the cutting unit so it cannot fall accidentally.

4. Using a rag or thickly padded glove, grasp end of

blade. Remove blade bolt, flat washer, anti-scalp cup
and blade from spindle assembly.

5. Remove flange nuts and carriage bolts securing

spindle housing to deck. Slide spindle housing assem-
bly out the bottom of the cutting unit.

Disassembly

1. Remove the nut and flat washer retaining the spindle

pulley on the spindle shaft. Slide pulley off of shaft.

2. Press the spindle shaft out of the spindle housing

using an arbor press. The bearing spacer remains on
the spindle shaft as the shaft is being removed.

3. Remove seals from spindle housing.

4. Allow the bearings and small thick spacer to fall out

of the spindle housing.
Figure 45
5. Using a punch and hammer, drive both of the bearing 1. Grease fitting 9. Spindle shaft
cups out of the spindle housing. Also drive the large 2. Jam nut 10. Spindle spacer
spacer out of the housing. 3. Washer 11. Blade
4. Wave seal 12. Anti-scalp cup
6. A large snap ring is still inside the spindle housing and 5. Carriage bolt 13. Flat washer
it should remain there because it cannot be easily 6. Flat washer 14. Capscrew
7. Spindle housing 15. Bearing assembly
removed.
8. Flange nut 16. Spacer – matched set

IMPORTANT: If new bearings will be installed into a

used spindle housing that has the original snap ring
installed, discard the large snap ring that came with
the bearings because it is not needed. However, new
bearings with their matched spacer and snap ring
must always be installed when the spindle housing
is being replaced. Replacement bearings are sold
only with a matched snap ring and spacer set. These
parts cannot be purchased separately.

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 Assembly and Installation of Spindle

IMPORTANT: If a new spindle housing is being used,

new bearings and matched snap ring set must be
installed; see step 1 below. Never use old bearings,
spacer, and snap ring with a new spindle housing.
If installing bearings into a used spindle housing
that still has a snap ring installed, use only new
bearings with cups and spacer – not the large snap
ring because it is not required; see step 2 below.

1. Install large snap ring into groove in bore of spindle

housing. Make sure snap ring is seated in groove.

2. Using an arbor press, push large spacer into top of Figure 46

spindle housing; tightly against snap ring. The spacer
must contact the snap ring to be sure of the correct
assembly of the parts.

3. Thoroughly oil the bearing cups and using an arbor

press, push the bearing cups, smallest inside diameter
first, into the top and bottom of the spindle housing. The
top bearing cup must contact the spacer that was in-
stalled in step 2, and the bottom bearing cup must
contact the snap ring to be sure of the correct assembly
of parts. Insure that the assembly is correct by support-
ing the first cup and pressing the second against it.

4. Apply a film of grease on lips of both seals, then install

bearing and seal into bottom of spindle housing. Re-
Figure 47
member, the BOTTOM SEAL MUST HAVE THE LIP FACING
OUTWARD, not toward the inside of the spindle housing.

5. Check the spindle shaft to make sure it is free of burrs

and nicks that could possibly cut the seals and thor-
oughly lubricate both the shaft and seal lips.

6. Slide small, thick spacer into spindle housing, then

install bearing and seal into top of spindle housing. LIP
OF UPPER SEAL MUST FACE INWARD.

7. Slide bearing spacer onto spindle shaft. Carefully

slide spindle shaft through spindle housing. The bottom
seal and bearing spacer fit together when the spindle is
installed.

8. Push pulley onto splines of spindle shaft and retain

the parts together with the large flat washer and nut.
Tighten the nut to 100 - 120 ft-lb and rotate the spindle
shaft to be sure that the shaft rotates freely.

9. Slide pulley end of spindle assembly through hole in

cutting unit. Mount the spindle assembly in place with
the carriage bolts and flange nuts.

10. Install the belt and adjust belt tension.

11. Reinstall the belt covers.

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 Chapter 13

Guardian® 72″ Recycler® Cutting Unit

Table of Contents
SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Caster Arm Bushing Replacement . . . . . . . . . . 10
TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Caster Wheel Bearing Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Separating Cutting Unit From Traction Unit. . . . 12
Height of Cut Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Mounting Cutting Unit to Traction Unit. . . . . . . . 13
Adjusting Skids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Push Arm and Torsion Spring Service . . . . . . . . 14
Mismatch Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Gearbox Removal and Installation . . . . . . . . . . 17
REPAIRS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Gearbox Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Blade Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Blade Spindle Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Belt Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

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 Specifications

ITEM SPECIFICATION
__________________________________________________________________________________________
Cutting width 72 inches
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Height of cut range 2 to 5 inches

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Height of cut adjustment 0.5 inch increments

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Blade bolt torque 85 to 110 ft-lb

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Spindle nut torque 140 - 160 ft-lb.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Gearbox lubricant SAE 80W90, API GL-5 gear lube

Figure 1

1. Filler plug
2. Check plug
3. Drain plug

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 Troubleshooting

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 Adjustments

Height of Cut Adjustment (Fig. 2, 3)

The height of cut is adjustable from 2 to 5 inches in 1/2
inch increments, by adding or removing an equal num-
ber of spacers on the front and rear caster forks. The
height of cut chart below gives the combinations of
spacers to use for all height of cut settings.

Height of Cut Spacers Below Caster Arms

inches mm Front Rear

2 50 0 0
2-1/2 64 1 1
3 76 2 2
3-1/2 89 3 3
4 102 4 4
4-1/2 114 5 5
5 127 6 6

1. Start the engine and raise cutting unit so height of cut Figure 2
can be changed. Stop engine after cutting unit is raised.
1. Front caster wheel 3. Spacers
Front Caster Wheels 2. Lynch pin 4. Thrust washer

1. Squeeze back of wire and rotate wire on lynch pin.

Pull pin out of caster spindle and slide spindle out of
front caster arm. Slide spacers onto the caster spindle
to get desired height of cut. Then slide washer onto
spindle.

2. Push caster spindle through caster arm. Install other

thrust washer and remaining spacers onto spindle. In-
stall lynch pin to retain parts in place.

Rear Caster Wheels

1. Squeeze back of wire and rotate wire on lynch pin.

Pull pin out caster spindle.

NOTE: Rear caster fork assembly does not need to be

removed from caster arm to change height of cut. Figure 3
2. Remove or add “C” shaped spacers at narrow part of 1. Rear caster wheel 3. Spacers
spindle shaft, below caster arm, to get desired height of 2. Lynch pin 4. Thrust washer
cut. Make sure thrust washers, not spacers, contact top
and bottom of caster arm.

3. Install lynch pin to secure caster wheel assembly.

4. Make sure all four caster wheels are set at same

height of cut.

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 Adjusting Skids (Fig. 4)
1. Adjust each skid by loosening the three (3) flange nuts
and moving the skid to the desired position. Tighten the
flange nuts to secure the skid in position.

Figure 4

1. Skid 2. Flange nuts

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 Checking and Correcting Mismatch of Blades (Fig. 5)
If there is mismatch between the blades, the grass will proceed to step 7 and add shims between spindle
appear streaked when it is cut. This problem can be housing and bottom of cutting unit.
corrected by making sure the blades are straight and all
blades are cutting on the same plane. 7. Remove cap screws, flat washers, lock washers and
nuts from outer spindle, in the area where shims must
1. Using a 3 foot long carpenters level, find a flat surface be added. To raise or lower the blade, add a shim, Part
on the shop floor. No. 3256-24, between spindle housing and bottom of
cutting unit. Continue to check alignment of blade and
2. Adjust height of cut so all six height of cut spacers are add shims until tips of blades are within the required
below the caster arm. dimension.

3. Lower cutting unit onto flat surface. Remove covers IMPORTANT: Do not use more than three shims at
from top of cutting unit. Release belt tension. any one hole location. Use decreasing numbers of
shims in adjacent holes if more than one shim is
4. Rotate blades until the ends face forward and back- added to any one hole location.
ward. Measure from floor to front tip of cutting edge and
remember this dimension. Then rotate same blade so 8. Adjust belt tension and install covers.
opposite end is forward and measure again. The differ-
ence between dimensions must not exceed 1/8 inch. If
difference exceeds 1/8 inch, replace the blade because
it is bent. Make sure to measure all three blades.

5. Compare measurements of outer blades with the

center blade. Center blade must not be more than 3/8
inch lower than outer blades. If center blade is more than
3/8 inch lower than outer blades, proceed to step 7 and 1/8"
add shims between spindle housing and bottom of
cutting unit.
Figure 5
6. Rotate blades so tips line up with one another. Tips
of the adjacent blades must be within 1/8 inch of each
other. If tips are not within 1/8 inch of each other,

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 Repairs

Blade Service (Fig. 6, 7, 8)

The blade must be replaced if a solid object is hit, or if
the blade is out-of-balance, worn or bent. Always use
genuine TORO replacement blades to ensure safety
and optimum performance. Never use blades made by
other manufacturers because they could be dangerous.

CAUTION
Do not try to straighten a blade that is bent,
and never weld a broken or cracked blade.
Always use a new TORO blade to assure
continued safety certification of the product.

Figure 6
1 . Raise cutting unit to highest position, shut the engine
off and engage parking brake. Block cutting unit to 1. Blade bolt
prevent it from falling accidentally. 2. Lockwasher
3. Anti-scalp cup
2. Grasp end of blade using a rag or thickly padded
glove. Remove blade bolt, lockwasher, anti-scalp cup
and blade from spindle shaft.

3. Install the blade, anti-scalp cup, lockwasher and

blade bolt. Make sure blade sail is facing up toward
cutting unit. Tighten blade bolt to a torque of 85 to
110 ft-lb.

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 Inspecting and Sharpening Blade

1. Raise cutting unit to highest position, shut the engine

off and engage parking brake. Block cutting unit to
prevent it from falling accidentally.

2. Examine cutting ends of the blade carefully, espe-

cially where the flat and curved parts of the blade meet.
Since sand and abrasive material can wear away the
metal that connects the flat and curved parts of the
blade, check the blade before using the machine. If any
wear is noticed, replace the blade: refer to Removing
Cutter Blade.

Figure 7
WARNING
If the blade is allowed to wear, a slot will form
between the sail and flat part of the blade.
Eventually, a piece of the blade may break off
and be thrown from under the housing, pos­
sibly resulting in serious injury to yourself or
bystander.

3. Examine cutting edges of all blades. Sharpen the

cutting edges if they are dull or nicked. Sharpen only the
top side of the cutting edge and maintain the original
cutting angle to assure sharpness. The blade will remain
balanced if same amount of metal is removed from both
cutting edges. Figure 8

4. To check blade for being straight and parallel, lay

blade on level surface and check its ends. Ends of blade
must be slightly lower than the center, and cutting edge
must be lower than heel of the blade. This blade will
produce good quality-of-cut and require minimal power
from the engine. By contrast, a blade that is higher at
the ends than the center, or cutting edge higher than the
heel of the blade is warped or bent and must be re-
placed.

5. To install the blade, ,assemble parts in reverse order,

and make sure the blade sail is facing up. Tighten blade
bolt to a torque of 85 to 110 ft-lb.

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 Belt Replacement (Fig. 9, 10, 11)
Signs of a worn belt are: squealing when belt is rotating,
blades slipping when cutting grass, frayed belt edges,
burn marks and cracks. Replace the belt if any of these
conditions are evident.

The blade drive belt is held under tension by a spring

loaded idler.

1. Lower cutting unit to shop floor, stop the engine and

engage the parking brake. Remove belt covers from top
of cutting unit.

2. Disconnect spring from idler arm bracket to release

belt tension. Remove cotter pin and clevis pin securing
idler arm bracket to idler arm.

3. Remove capscrews and nuts securing gear box plate

to deck channels. Lift gear box plate and gear box off Figure 9
deck channels and lay it on top of deck.
1. Spring 2. Idler arm 3. Idler arm bracket
4. Remove belt from around spindle pulleys and through
idler pulley assembly.

5. Install belt around spindle pulleys and through idler

pulley assembly.

6. Install gear box plate on deck channels while routing

belt around gear box pulley. Mount gear box plate to
deck channels with capscrews and nuts.

7. Install idler arm bracket to idler arm with cotter pin

and clevis pin. Hook spring onto idler arm bracket. To
make sure there is proper belt tension on drive belt,
spring should be extended to a length of approximately
7.00 inches. If spring is not extended to this length,
move spring rod to other mounting holes further away
from belt.
Figure 10
8. Install belt covers.
1. Gear box plate 2. Capscrews and nuts

Figure 11

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 Caster Arm Bushing Service (Fig. 12)
The caster arms have bushings pressed into the top and
bottom portion of the tube and after many hours of
operation, the bushings will wear. To check the bush-
ings, move caster fork back and forth and from side-to-
side. If caster spindle is loose inside the bushings,
bushings are worn and must be replaced.

1. Raise cutting unit and block it so it cannot fall acci-

dentally.

2. Remove lynch pin and spacers from top of caster

spindle.

3. Pull caster spindle out of mounting tube. Allow

spacer(s) and thrust washer to remain on bottom of Figure 12
spindle to assure same height of cut when caster spin-
dle is reinstalled.

4. Insert pin punch into top or bottom of mounting tube

and drive bushing out of tube. Also drive other bushing
out of tube. Clean inside of tubes to remove dirt.

5. Apply grease to inside and outside of new bushings.

Using a hammer and flat plate, drive bushings into
mounting tube.

6. Inspect caster spindle for wear and replace it if

damaged.

7. Push caster spindle through bushings and mounting

tube. Slide spacers onto spindle. Install lynch pin
through caster spindle to retain all parts in place.

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 Caster Wheel Bearing Service (Fig. 13)
The rear caster wheels rotate on high quality roller
bearings which are supported by spanner bushings.
Even after many hours of use, provided that the bearing
was kept well-lubricated, bearing wear will be minimal.
However, failure to keep bearings lubricated will cause
rapid wear. A wobbly caster wheel usually indicates a
worn bearing.

1. Remove capscrew and locknut holding caster wheel

between caster fork.

2. Pull spanner bushing out of wheel hub.

3. Remove bushing from wheel hub and allow bearing

to fall out. Remove bushing from opposite side of wheel
hub.

4. Check the bearing, spanner and inside of wheel hub Figure 13

for wear. Replace defective parts.
1. Caster wheel 4. Spanner bushing
5. To assemble the caster wheel, push bushing into 2. Capscrew and locknut 5. Roller bearing
wheel hub. Slide bearing into wheel hub. Push other 3. Bushing (2)
bushing into open end of wheel hub to captivate the
bearing inside the wheel hub.

6. Carefully slide spanner through the bushings and

wheel hub.

7. Install caster wheel assembly between caster fork,

and secure all parts in place with capscrew and locknut.

8. Lubricate caster wheel bearing through grease fitting,

using No. 2 general purpose lithium grease.

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 Separating Cutting Unit From Traction Unit (Fig. 14, 15, 16)
1. Position machine on level surface, lower cutting unit
to the shop floor, shut engine off and engage parking
brake.

2. Remove self-tapping screws securing shield to top of

cutting unit and set shield aside.

3. Drive roll pin out of yoke and input shaft of gear box.
Also, loosen cap screws and lock nuts. Slide yoke off
the input shaft. If traction unit will be used without the
cutting unit, drive roll pin out of yoke at PTO pivot shaft
and remove entire universal shaft from traction unit.

Figure 14
DANGER
Do not start the engine and engage the PTO 1. Drive shaft yokes 3. Roll pin
2. Yokes in phase 4. Capscrews
lever when PTO shaft is not connected to gear
box on cutting unit. If engine is started and
PTO shaft is allowed to rotate, serious injury
could result.

4. Disconnect cotter pins and clevis pins securing lift

chains to lift arms.

WARNING
Since the right hand push arm is spring-
loaded to about 100 pounds and left hand
push arm is spring-loaded to about 150
pounds, a helper is needed to release push
arms from cutting unit. Sudden release of the Figure 15
push arms could cause injury.
1. R.H. push arm 4. Capscrews and washers
2. Caster arm 5. Ball joint
5. Have a helper push down on the right push arm while 3. Ball joint mount 6. Jam nut
you remove the cap screws, flat washers, lock washers
and nuts securing ball joint mount to caster arm on
cutting unit. Now the helper can carefully allow push arm
to move upward, which will gradually release the 100
pounds of spring load.

6. Have a helper push down on the left push arm while

you remove the cap screws, flat washers, lock washers
and nuts securing ball joint mount to mount bracket on
cutting unit. Now the helper can carefully allow push arm
to move upward which will gradually release the 150
pounds of spring load.

7. Roll the cutting unit away from the traction unit.

Figure 16

1. L.H. push arm 5. Capscrews and washers

2. Caster arm 6. Ball joint
3. Ball joint mount 7. Jam nut
4. Chain mount

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 Mounting Cutting Unit to Traction Unit (Fig. 14, 15, 16, 17)
1. Position machine on level surface and shut 8. Line up holes in yoke and input shaft of gear box.
engine off. Slide yoke onto shaft and secure parts together with roll
pin. Tighten (2) capscrews and locknuts securing yoke
2. Move cutting unit into position in front of traction unit. to input shaft.

9. Mount PTO shield over input shaft and onto gear box
mounting plate with two self-tapping screws.
WARNING
Since the right hand push arm is spring­ 10. Connect lift chains to lift arm and cutting unit chain
loaded to about 100 pounds and left hand brackets with (6) shackles, shackle pins and cotter pins.
push arm is spring-loaded to about 150 To make sure cutting unit lifts properly, secure chains to
pounds, a helper is needed to push the push the following links when connecting:
arm down. Sudden release of the push arm
could cause injury. Front left – 11th link�
Front right – 8th link�
Rear – 7th link�
3. Have a helper carefully push down on right hand push
arm until holes in ball joint mount line up with holes in 11. Check operation to make sure chains lift deck tight
caster arm. against stops when lift arm is raised.

4. Secure ball joint mount to caster arm with capscrews,

flat washers and flange nuts. Flat washers must be
installed to outside of caster arm.

5. Have a helper carefully push down on left hand push

arm until holes in ball joint mount are in line with holes
in mount bracket on cutting unit. Immediately slide 4 x 4
in. block of wood between top of push arm and under-
side of chassis.

WARNING
Make sure wooden block does not slip out
accidentally. Figure 17

1. Front left lift chain

6. Secure ball joint mount and chain bracket to caster 2. Front right lift chain
arm with capscrews, flat washers and flange nuts. Flat 3. Rear lift chain
washers must be installed to outside of caster arm.
Chain bracket must be installed using forward set of
holes.

7. Carefully remove wood block holding push arm down.

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 Push Arm and Torsion Spring Service (Fig. 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24)

Removing Push Arms,

Torsion Springs and Bushings

1. Separate cutting unit from traction unit and roll cutting

unit away from traction unit.

2. Have a helper push down on the left push arm while

you put a 4" x 4" block of wood between the chassis and
the top of the push arm, and across the full width of the
machine.

3. Loosen the large jam nut on the left-hand ball joint at

the end of the push arm. Remove the ball joint (mount
attached) from the push arm.
Figure 18
4. Remove the self-tapping screws holding the floor
plate to the main frame. Raise the floor plate and set it
aside.

5. Disconnect the right-hand brake cable from the brake

strut. Remove the jam nut holding the brake cabled in
the mount on the frame and slide the cable through the
hole in the push arm bracket.

6. Remove the cotter pin from the end of the parking

brake rod. Slide the rod out of the latch.

Figure 19

Figure 20

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 7. Remove the cap screws, locknuts, carriage bolts, lock
washers and nuts holding the brake mount and pedal
assembly in place. Lay the brake mount and the pedal
assembly on the wheel.

8. Have a helper push down slightly on the left push arm

while you remove the block of wood between the push
arm and the chassis. Slowly and carefully allow the push
arm to move upward until all spring load is released.

9. Remove the cap screws, locknuts, support plate and

push arm bracket holding the left side of the push arm
and pivot shaft to the main frame.

10. Remove the cap screws, locknuts, reinforcement

and push arm bracket holding the right side of the push
arm and pivot shaft to the main frame. The entire push
arm and pivot shaft assembly should now be free of the
main frame. Figure 21

11. Drive the roll pins out of the pivot shaft and slide the
push arm assemblies off of the shaft.

12. Drive the pushing out of both push arm pivot tubes.
Clean the inside of the pivot tubes to remove all dirt and
other material.

Figure 22

Figure 23
®
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 Installing Push Arms,

Torsion Springs and Bushings

1. Apply grease to inside and outside of new bushings.

Using a hammer and flat plate, carefully drive the bush-
ings into the push arm pivot tubes. The bushings must
be flush with the end of the tube.

2. Inspect the torsion springs. If the springs are dam-

aged, use new springs when assembling the parts.

3. Slide the torsion springs onto the inside of the push

arm pivot tubes. Install the washers, push arms with
springs and push arm brackets onto the pivot shaft.
Install the roll pins to secure the parts in place.
Figure 24
4. Raise the push arm and pivot shaft assembly into
position and secure it in place with cap screws, support 1. L.H. push arm 5. Capscrews and washers
plate, reinforcement support and locknuts. Make sure 2. Caster arm 6. Ball joint
the springs contact the retainer plate on the push arms 3. Ball joint mount 7. Jam nut
and the underside of the frame. 4. Chain mount

5. Have a helper push down on the left push arm while

you place a 3 ft. long block of wood between the chassis
and to top of the push arms, across the full width of the
machine.

NOTE: After the wood block is installed, there should be

enough clearance for installing the ball joint into the front
of the push arm.

6. Thread jam nut fully onto the left-hand ball joint.

Screw the ball joint into the left-hand push arm until the
center of the ball joint is 2.25 inches away from the front
of the push arm. Do not tighten the jam nut until the deck
is mounted.

7. Install the brake mount and pedal assembly with cap

screws, locknuts, carriage bolts, lock washer and nuts.
Route the right-hand brake cable through the hole in the
right-hand push arm bracket. Connect the cable to the
brake strut with the clevis pin and the tension spring.
Hook the opposite end of the tension spring into the hole
in the side of the chassis. Also install the cable into the
mount on the frame.

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 Gearbox Removal and Installation (Fig. 25, 26)
Removing Gearbox and Drive Pulley 4. Remove capscrews and nuts securing gear box plate
(Item 10) to deck channels.
1. Lower cutting unit to shop floor, stop the engine and
engage the parking brake. Remove belt covers from top 5. Remove the set screws (Item 19) from the taper lock
of cutting unit. bushing (Item 18). Install one setscrew into the hole that
is threaded on the side of taper lock. Tighten the set-
2. Remove shroud (Item 9) covering universal drive screw until the taper lock is loose from the inside of the
shaft. Disconnect drive shaft from gearbox. pulley hub.

NOTE: Only one setscrew is used to loosen the

taper lock.
DANGER
Do not start the engine and engage the P.T.O. 6. Slide the gearbox pulley (Item 17) and taper lock off
when the P.T.O. shaft is not connected to the of the gearbox output shaft. Account for the woodruff key
gearbox. If engine is started and the P.T.O. that positions the pulley on the shaft, and remove the
shaft is allowed to rotate, serious injury could setscrew from the side of the taper lock.
result.
7. Disassemble fasteners securing gear box to gear box
mount plate and remove gearbox. Remove brackets
3. Disconnect spring from idler arm bracket to release (Items 6, 13) from gear box.
belt tension. Remove cotter pin and clevis pin securing
idler arm bracket to idler arm.

Figure 25

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 Installing Gearbox and Drive Pulley 7. Using a brass drift pin or sleeve and a hammer, hit
taper lock firmly. Now tighten set screws to 55 in-lb.
1. Install isolation mounts (Item 3) into brackets (Item 7, Continue to hit taper lock and tighten set screws until
13). Use water or lubricant to ease installation. Install 55 in-lb of torque will not turn the set screws.
mounts from bottom of bracket.
8. Check alignment of gearbox with a spindle pulley.
2. Install bracket on each side of gearbox with cap- Loosen and relocate taper lock to adjust, if necessary.
screws and lockwashers. Tighten capscrews to a torque
of 20 - 26 ft-lb. 9. Fill recessed socket head in each setscrew, and other
taper lock holes, with grease to prevent dirt from packing
3. Install gearbox with brackets to gear box mount plate into holes.
(Item 10).
10. Install gear box plate on deck channels while routing
4. To install pulley (Item 17), slide taper lock (Item 18), belt around gear box pulley. Mount gear box plate to
small end first, into pulley hub. deck channels with capscrews and nuts.

5. Insert woodruff key into keyway in gearbox shaft. 11. Install idler arm bracket to idler arm with cotter pin
Slide pulley with taper lock onto gearbox shaft while and clevis pin. Hook spring onto idler arm bracket. To
aligning key and keyway. make sure there is proper belt tension on drive belt,
spring should be extended to a length of approximately
NOTE: Large hub on pulley must face away from gear- 7.00 inches. If spring is not extended to this length,
box, and like the taper lock, the pulley must contact move spring rod to other mounting holes further away
shoulder on the gearbox shaft. from belt.

6. Rotate pulley to get non-threaded holes in taper lock 12. Install belt covers. Install drive shaft to gear box and
to line up with the two threaded holes in hub of gearbox secure with a new roll pin.
pulley. Start threading set screws (Item 19) into the two
holes and tighten them alternately and evenly until both 13. Remove gear box fill plug and check plug. Add SAE
set screws are tight. 80W90 API GL-5 gear lube until level is to bottom of
check plug hole. Install plugs in gear box.

Figure 26

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 Gear Box Repair (Fig. 27, 28)

Figure 27

Gear Box Disassembly 6. Remove bearing cups (Item 14) from cap by putting
a punch through the shaft bore and through the seal and
1. Drain lubricant from gear box. then tapping against the back of the bearing cup until
driven out of the cap.
2. Remove capscrews and lift out shaft and cap assem-
blies. 7. If the oil seal (Item 13) is removed, it will be destroyed.
To remove the oil seal, cut it out of the bore with a screw
3. Remove cap assemblies and bearing cones (Item 12) driver or chisel.
from shafts (Item 17, 19).
8. To remove the bearing cups (Item 3) from the housing
NOTE: Mark each gear (Item 10 and 18) so they are a slide hammer puller may be used, or if this is not
installed on the proper shaft (Item 17 or 19) when available, the bearing cups may be knocked out with a
re-assembled. punch by coming down through the opposite cap bore
and tapping against the back side of the bearing cup
4. Remove retaining rings (Item 7). until it comes out.

5. Press shafts (Item 17, 19) back through bearing 9. Remove the plugs (Item 2) from the housing.
cones (Item 9). When bearing cone is free, gears (Item
10, 18), keys (Item 8) and shims (Item 11) may be
removed from the shaft.

Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 13 - 19 Repairs

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 17

12 14 4, 5, 6

16

9
3
1

10

11

19

13

7 2 18 8

Figure 28

Gear Box Pre-Assembly cap with the open side toward the machined side of the
cap.
1. Start with one of the shafts (Item 17) and put one of
the gears (Item 10) over the shaft so the tooth side is 6. Install the bearing cup (Item 14) into the cap. Make
towards the turned end of the shaft. Align the keyway in sure the bearing cup is installed as shown in the illus-
the gear with the keyway in the shaft and install one of tration.
the keys (Item 8) in the keyway.
7. Repeat steps 5 - 6 with the other set of parts to
2. Install one set of shims (Item 11) onto the turned end complete the two cap assemblies.
of the shaft. Press one of the bearing cones (Item 9)
over the turned end of the shaft. Be sure the bearing 8. Take one of the shaft and gear assemblies and wrap
cone is installed as shown in the illustration (Fig. 42B). the end of the shaft with a piece of shim stock to keep
Install a retaining ring (Item 7) on the turned end of the from cutting the oil seal on the keyway or splines. Put
shaft. the cap assembly down over the shaft so the bearing
cone (Item 12) on the shaft mates with the bearing cone
3. Put one of the bearing cones (Item 12) over the other (Item 14) in the cap. Remove the shim stock from the
end of the shaft and down against the hub side of the shaft that was used to protect the seal.
gear. Be sure the bearing cone is installed as shown in
the illustration. 9. Press the bearing cups (Item 3) into both bearing
bores in the housing (Item 1). Make sure the cups are
4. Repeat steps 1 - 3 with the other set of parts to installed as shown in the illustration. Install the plugs
complete the assembly. (Item 2) into the tapped holes in the housing.

5. Put one of the caps (Item 16) down, with the machined
surface facing up. Install a new seal (Item 13) into the

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 Gear Box Final Assembly 4. The shaft should have a very slight amount of bearing
drag. If the shaft turns hard, the cap must be removed
1. Bearing drag is adjusted by the amount of gaskets and gasket(s) need to be added. If the shaft has no
(Item 4, 5, 6) used between the cap and housing ma- bearing drag, or has end play, the cap must be removed
chined surfaces. and gasket(s) taken out. The cap must be adjusted to
where the shaft has no end play and only a slight amount
2. Put two 0.015 in. gaskets on the machined surface of of bearing drag.
the housing, then install the shaft and cap assembly in
the housing so the bearing cone (Item 9) on the shaft 5. Repeat steps 1 - 4 with the other shaft and cap
assembly and bearing cup (Item 3) in the housing are assembly.
mating. Align the holes in the cap with the holes in the
gaskets and housing. 6. After installing the gear box on the cutting unit, fill it
with SAE 80W90 API GL-5 lubricant to the level of the
3. Install capscrews and tighten. check plug (see Maintenance section in this chapter).

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 Blade Spindle Service (Fig. 29, 30, 31)
Removing Spindle Housing Assembly

1. Lower the cutting unit, shut the engine off and engage
the parking brake.

2. Remove deck covers from top of cutting unit. Release

belt tension. Remove belt from spindle to be serviced.

3. Start the engine and raise the cutting unit. Turn the
engine OFF and remove the key from the key switch.
Block up the cutting unit so it cannot fall accidentally.

4. Using a rag or thickly padded glove, grasp end of

blade. Remove blade screw, flat washer, anti-scalp cup
and blade from spindle assembly.

5. Remove flange nuts and carriage bolts securing

spindle housing to deck. Slide spindle housing assem-
bly out the bottom of the cutting unit.

Disassembly

1. Remove lock nut retaining the spindle pulley on

spindle shaft. Slide pulley off of shaft.

2. Press the spindle shaft out of the spindle housing

using an arbor press. The bearing spacer remains on
the spindle shaft as the shaft is being removed. Figure 29

1. Grease fitting 9. Flange nut

3. Remove seals from spindle housing. 2. Lock nut 10. Spindle shaft
3. Spindle pulley 11. Spindle shaft spacer
4. Allow the bearings and small thick spacer to fall out 4. Wave seal 12. Blade
of the spindle housing. 5. Bearing assembly 13. Anti-scalp cup
6 Carriage bolt 14. Lock washer
7. Flat washer 15. Blade screw
5. Using a punch and hammer, drive both of the bearing
8. Spindle housing
cups out of the spindle housing. Also drive the large
spacer out of the housing.

6. A large snap ring is still inside the spindle housing and

it should remain there because it cannot be easily
removed.

IMPORTANT: If new bearings will be installed into a

used spindle housing that has the original snap ring
installed, discard the large snap ring that came with
the bearings because it is not needed. However, new
bearings with their matched spacer and snap ring
must always be installed when the spindle housing
is being replaced. Replacement bearings are sold
only with a matched snap ring and spacer set. These
parts cannot be purchased separately.

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 Installing Spindle, Bearings
and Seals Into Spindle Housing

IMPORTANT: If a new spindle housing is being used,

new bearings and matched snap ring set must be
installed; see step 1 below. Never use old bearings,
spacer, and snap ring with a new spindle housing.
If installing bearings into a used spindle housing
that still has a snap ring installed, use only new
bearings with cups and spacer – not the large snap
ring because it is not required; see step 2 below.

1. Install large snap ring into groove in bore of spindle

housing. Make sure snap ring is seated in groove.
Figure 30
2. Using an arbor press, push large spacer into top of
spindle housing; tightly against snap ring. The spacer
must contact the snap ring to be sure of the correct
assembly of the parts.

3. Thoroughly oil the bearing cups and using an arbor

press, push the bearing cups, smallest inside diameter
first, into the top and bottom of the spindle housing. The
top bearing cup must contact the spacer that was in-
stalled in step 2, and the bottom bearing cup must
contact the snap ring to be sure of the correct assembly
of parts. Insure that the assembly is correct by support-
ing the first cup and pressing the second against it.

4. Apply a film of grease on lips of both seals, then install

Figure 31
bearing and seal into bottom of spindle housing. Re-
member, the BOTTOM SEAL MUST HAVE THE LIP FACING
OUTWARD, not toward the inside of the spindle housing.

5. Check the spindle shaft to make sure it is free of burrs

and nicks that could possibly cut the seals and thor-
oughly lubricate both the shaft and seal lips.

6. Slide small, thick spacer into spindle housing, then

install bearing and seal into top of spindle housing. LIP
OF UPPER SEAL MUST FACE INWARD.

7. Slide bearing spacer onto spindle shaft. Carefully

slide spindle shaft through spindle housing. The bottom
seal and bearing spacer fit together when the spindle is
installed.

8. Push pulley onto splines of spindle shaft and retain

the parts together with the large flat washer and nut.
Tighten the nut to 100 - 120 ft-lb and rotate the spindle
shaft to be sure that the shaft rotates freely.

9. Slide pulley end of spindle assembly through hole in

cutting unit. Mount the spindle assembly in place with
the carriage bolts and flange nuts.

10. Install the belt and adjust belt tension.

11. Reinstall the belt covers.

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 Commercial Products

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