Modification of low quality leathers to high quality leathers
and subsequent commercial gains
Mubarik Ibni Majid1, Goutam Mukherjee2
1
B.Tech Student, GCELT Kolkata
2
Associate Professor, GCELT, Salt Lake Kolkata
Email:
[email protected],
Abstract: As we know leather is a natural polymer so its quality can not be equal in all
the tanned hides/ skins, the hides which are of high quality in raw stage, can be converted
to a good leather and ultimately can be converted to a high commercial value but those
which are some what poor quality they don’t give that much commercial value. In this
paper we have taken 4 types of leather grades which were initially taken for conversion in
to a low grade leather but we have done some modification in their recipe at wet end
level and some in finishing level and converted them successfully to a high value items
with nominal investment in comparison to value generated.
Key words: Nappa leather, DDDM leather, Printed high Veg leather, Semi chrome
Introduction: leather making is an ancient old age process, and it takes lot many
operations in sequence to be performed to convert a raw hide into a finished leather, these
operations are chemical, physical, mechanical and are of biological origin. They can be
classified as pretanning operations, tanning operation and post tanning operations. For
our study we have taken 4 types of hides after chrome tanning and performed
modification in the wet end and finishing operation means we have modified the process
in post tanning, which convert the low commercial value wet blue leather to high value
finished leather as per the following recipe, the modification have been performed one by
one on the 4 hides as per their articles specific conversions.
Modification in Wet end processing:
ARTICLE: (1)
INDUSTRIAL GLOVING LEATHER:
NATURE: low quality wet blue hide 1 COLOUR: Pink
ORGIN: cow (east) SHAVED WEIGHT: 1.200kg
Pcs: 1(side) SHAVING THICKNESS: 10/11
Process Sequence:
Water: 100%
+2935: 0.5% ---- 30`
+Potassium permanganate: 0.5% ----- 20`
+Oxalic acid: 1.0%
+Sodium bi-sulphite: 1.5% --------- 45`
Drain/wash thoroughly
Water: 100%
+F/A: 0.3% - 20`
+B.C.S : 2.0%
+H.N: 2.0%
+DMS: 2.0--------45`
+Sodium formate: 1.0%
+sodium bicarbonate: 1.0%--------45`
Drain/wash
Water: 100%
+soda bicarb: 1.0%
+Ammonium bicarbonate: 1.5%--------30`
+Texzyme HS: 1.5%----2 hrs
Leave over night
Next day:
Run for 30 mnts. Drain/wash thoroughly
Check ph: 6
Water: 100%
+PW: 0.5%----10`
+Nitotan brill Red 3BN: 3.0%----30`
+Nural KR: 5.0%
+Hudsol sol: 4.0%
+Hudsol DMS: 2.0%
+Nuraliken 1012: 2.0%
+Sapcosynth 1104: 4.0%
+Hudsol GLN: 1.0%
+Sapco 2935: 0.5%
+Tolcide- C: 0.2%----------------30`+75`
Check fat exhaustion
+F/Acid: 1.0%----10`+10`+20`
+Sapcolone-RM: 0.5%----10`
Out & pile
ARTICLE: (2)
Cow V/T Milled:
NATURE: low quality wet blue hide 2 COLOUR: Brown
ORGIN: cow (east) SHAVED WEIGHT: 1.200kg
Pcs: 1(side) SHAVING THICKNESS: 10/11
Process Sequence:
Water: 150
+2935: 0.3
+Oxalic acid: 3.0------------60`
Check, drain wash
Water: 100
+Sodium formate: 1.0
+Soda: 1.5-----------30`
Check PH=5.0-5.2, Drain/wash
Water: 50
+RE: 2.0--------------20`
+Quebracho: 5.0
+Chestnut: 4.0
+Myrobalan: 3.0
+Tera: 3.0
+PW: 1.0
+DMS: 1.0------------60`Quebracho: 4.0
+Chestnut: 3.0
+Myrobalan: 2.0
+GS Powder: 3.0
+PW: 1.0
+DMS: 1.0
+FB: 3.0
+Brown MBL: 1.5
Norolacks: 3.0------------20`
AMO: 2.0
+GLN: 1.0
+NQB: 1.0
+SOC: 3.0
+1012: 2.0
+DMS: 1.0
+2935: 0.3
+C-30: 0.2-----------------60`
Check fat exhaustion
F/acid: 1.5-----------------10`+20`+20`
Out/ pile
ARTICLE: (3)
PRINTED HIGH VEG.:
NATURE: low quality wet blue hide 3 COLOUR: Green
ORGIN: cow (east) SHAVED WEIGHT: 1.200kg
Pcs: 1(side) SHAVING THICKNESS: 10/11
Process Sequence:
Water: 100
+2935: 0.3
+Oxalic acid: 2.0------------60`
Check, drain wash
Water: 100
+PW: 1.0----------10`
+Sodium formate:1.0
+ Soda : 1.0------- 40`
Check PH=5.0-5.2, Drain wash
Water: 50
+Dermafil RE: 1.5
+Retosin Co: 1.5-----30`
Watlle GSP 200: 4.0
+Quebracho: 5.0
+Chestnut: 4.0
+Myrobalan: 3.0
+PW: 1.0
+DMS: 1.0--------------60`
+Quebracho: 4.0
+Chestnut: 3.0
+Nuratan: 3.0
+Myrobalan: 3.0
+Ratosin FB: 3.0
+PW: 1.0
+DMS: 1.0
+Green B: 1.5
+Blue BRNB: 0.4------------------90`
Check
Add water ---------------------10`
Formic acid: 0.7-----------------10`+20`
Drian/ wash
Water: 100
+PW: 1.0----------------------10`
Norolacks: 3.0------------30`
AMO: 2.0
+GLN: 1.0
+NZB: 1.0
+DMS: 1.0
+SOL: 2.0
+C-30: 0.2-----------------45`
Check fat exhaustion
F/acid: 1.0-----------------10`+10`+20`
Drain/ pile
watlle GSP 200: 3.0
ARTICLE: (4)
Cow DDDM.:
NATURE: low quality wet blue hide 4 COLOUR: Black
ORGIN: cow (east) SHAVED WEIGHT: 1.200kg
Pcs: 1(side) SHAVING THICKNESS: 10/11
Process Sequence:
Water: 150
+2935: 0.5--------------------45`
Check soak back, drain wash thoroughly
Modification in finishing techniques:
Article1: Crust Industrial Gloving leather
Purpose:-Up gradation
Finishing Article:- Cow Nappa from Gloving
Use:- For leather goods
Base coat:-
Cationic pigment: 50
FSKT: 100
Water; 250
1X pad (fine hair cell)
Intermediate coat:-
Pigment: 100
AR740: 250
DC36: 30
VW10: 50
IPA: 10
Water: 200
---------- After 1 pad fine hair cell again
Then 2X pad
Top coat:-
SEW10: 60
Fenlac matt: 40
Water: 100 -------------------1X spray
Article(2): Crust V/T Milled
Purpose:-Up gradation
Finishing Article:- Cow V/T sahara
Use:- For ladies leather bags
Stain Coat cX 808 2X
SE59 4/L-100
OPOQ-100----------2x spray plainplate at 90 /50bar
Soak the leather,Crumple, to dry
again plain plate at 90 c /50 bar
Article(3): Crust printed high veg
Purpose:-Up gradation
Finishing Article:- NDM Green
Use:- For leather bags
Pigment- 100
Kb-1616: 250
UW10: 50 1X spray,1pad,1x spray
DC36: 30
DC116: 30
IPA; 10
Water: 200 After print 1X spray
Wax coat:-
Sunset: 100
Water: 100
Dye solution: 10 ------2X spray
Top coat:-
SEW10: 50
Fenlac Matt; 50
Water: 100 ------------1Xspray,Light milled to achieve the wax effect
Article(4): Crust DDDM
Purpose:-Up gradation
Stucco application:- Apply Stucco (Mender flex) on then grain side to get
required design or formation. Dry it properly.
Use:- For Leather goods
Top coat:-
UW102: 100
Mirror: 100
Water: 100
Ex Dye solution: 10
2X spray to get the two tone effect
Conclusion: Through our paper we have tried to snatch the focus of leather technologist
in the direction that utility of a product can be increased if it suits to the requirement of
customers and they are ready to sacrifice the utility of other products for the above said
product and a technologist should always looks ahead in the direction of possibility of
conversion of a low value item to a high value item.
