™

Cithrol 10GTIS
Taking inspiration from the East, Cithrol 10GTIS creates advanced high performance microemulsion facial
cleansers that are crystal clear, gentle to skin and easily rinsed leaving no oily residue. A highly effective and
mild surfactant, Cithrol 10GTIS allows the formulation of clear facial cleansers compromising oil and water in a
microemulsion, maintaining the perfect hydro-lipophilic balance required for this type of high performance
system. Cithrol 10GTIS is very mild to skin and can also be used to create gentle and effective surfactant oil
cleansers, cleansing oils that emulsify on contact with water so they can be rinsed from skin on application of
water. The microemulsion and oil cleansers are very efficient at removing long wear and water proof make-up
while leaving the skin feeling renewed, smooth and soft to the touch.

Product INCI Name Appearance

Cithrol 10GTIS PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate Clear pale yellow liquid

Features & Benefits

 Create advanced high performance microemulsion facial cleansers that are -
 Crystal clear
 Gentle to skin
 Highly efficacious
 Easily rinsed with no oily residue

Applications
 Microemulsion oil cleansers
 Cleansing oils

Use levels: 5 - 30%

Chemical Structure
O

O
xO O
O
O
O y
O
z
x + y + z = 20
O
Figure 1: Chemical structure of Cithrol 10GTIS

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Microemulsion Technology and Oil Cleansers
The combination of water and hydrophobic oils with a suitable emulsifier generally results in an opaque
emulsion or ‘macroemulsion’. Over time, these emulsions will naturally destabilise and split into their two
immiscible phases. By using specialised surfactants it is possible to create advanced microemulsions, clear
and thermodynamically stable systems. This is due to the interfacial tension between the two phases reaching
a minimum meaning they will not destabilise over time.

In order to produce a microemulsion, the emulsifier(s) used must exactly balance the hydrophilicity and
lipophilicity of the system. This means it is important to carefully select the ingredients used in microemulsions
as they are very sensitive to changes in the oil phase polarity.

Although the name suggests an emulsion with a small particle or droplet size, microemulsions behave more
like a bicontinuous systems; optically clear solutions containing both water and oil in a single phase rather than
separate continuous and dispersed phases.1

In application, due to having both lipid and water continuous phases present, microemulsions have been shown
to be highly effective cleansers when the correct oils are chosen in formulation. These systems originated in
Japan and Korea and form part of the commonly used multi-step skin care routine. Microemulsion cleansers
initially behave in a similar way to simple oil cleansers; the oils dissolve make-up and dirt on the skin very
effectively. When it comes to removing the make-up and dirt from the skin, warm water is used to simply rinse
the cleanser from the skin instead of having to wipe away with cotton wool. The advanced microemulsion
cleansing systems are soluble in water, leaving skin smooth and soft with no oily skin feel.

Oil surfactant cleansers are similar to microemulsion cleansers, with a high oil and surfactant loading, but they
do not contain the bicontinuous emulsion structure that is present in microemulsions due to the lack of water.
The advantages of this type of system are that they are easier to formulate and more tolerant of different oil
phases as there is no aqueous phase present. The absence of the microemulsion means that during rinsing,
they rely on being instantly emulsified when they come in to contact with water. The relatively low shearing
forces that are involved during a rinsing process usually results in a large oil droplet size within the emulsion
which can mean more oily residue is left behind on the skin. Since it is the oil which removes the dirt or make-
up from the skin, this can mean the rinsing process is not as easy and the cleansing can be less effective
compared to microemulsions.

In-vitro Cleansing
Evaluating the performance of cleansing formulations can be difficult via in-vivo methods due to the wide
variety of make-up products used and the difference in quantities applied. Therefore an in-vitro method was
employed to standardise not only the application of make-up soils but also the force applied when removing the
soil.

The cleansing performance and sensory characteristics of microemulsion formulations is highly dependent on
the oils chosen. To demonstrate the basic cleansing capabilities of these advanced systems, the Croda in-vitro
scrub tester method was used to compare a simple microemulsion (C2737) and a commercially available
detergent face wash as a commonly used benchmark. A long wear foundation was applied to a silicone
membrane to mimic the application of make-up to the skin. After drying overnight in ambient conditions, images
of the strips were taken before being attached to an abrasion scrub tester (Sheen Instruments, CA, USA).

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Figure 2: Set-up of abrasion scrubber

Microemulsion cleansers are applied differently to detergent cleansers and so the protocol reflects this.
Detergent based cleansers are normally applied to wet skin, so water was first applied to the soil patch to be
cleaned and the wipe material on the scrubbing head. Microemulsion cleansers are designed to be applied to
dry skin so in this instance the cleanser was applied directly to the dry soil patch and to the dry wipe substrate.
In each case, 2ml of either water or cleanser was applied across the soil and the wipe. The scrub tester was
set to perform one pass, evenly distributing either the water or microemulsion over the soil and silicone strips.

Having pre-wetted the soil patch with water, the detergent cleanser was then applied to the silicone and wipe.
On the strip where the microemulsion was applied, water was then added. Again with both cleansing systems,
2ml of cleanser or water was added across the soil and wipe substrates.

The scrub tester was then set to perform 30 passes over the make-up soil to simulate the mechanical wiping
process during a cleansing routine.

The images in Figure 3 below show the silicone strips before cleansing and then after the 30 passes had been
completed.

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 Detergent Cleanser Microemulsion Cleanser
Before Cleansing
After Cleansing

Figure 3: Images showing silicone strips with a long wear foundation applied. (Top) Images before cleansing.
(Bottom) Images after cleansing with either a detergent or microemulsion system.

The highlighted regions show that the microemulsion formulation greatly outperformed the detergent cleanser
benchmark with considerably less foundation remaining on the silicone strip.

Consumer Sensory Perception

A half face consumer study was conducted in the UK to evaluate the general performance and sensorial
perception of a simple microemulsion using Cithrol 10GTIS (C2737) compared to a major brand commercial
facial cleansing oil. The participants were asked to wash half their face using one product and then wash the
other half of their face with the second product and then complete a questionnaire. The results can be seen in
Figure 4.

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Figure 4: Consumer sensory results comparing a simple microemulsion using Cithrol 10GTIS to a commercial oil
cleanser benchmark

The data in Figure 4 shows the simple microemulsion to have very similar properties to the commercial
benchmark. The oils used in the cleansers are largely responsible for the sensory since oil is the outer phase of
the bicontinuous phase microemulsion. The Cithrol 10GTIS has more influence over the “residue” and “oily
feel after rinsing” as well as the “skin tightness” as these attributes will be more strongly linked to the emulsifier.
There is no statistical difference in these attributes showing the very simple microemulsion to be just as
effective as the complex commercial benchmark.

Skin Mildness
Cithrol 10GTIS is a very mild, gentle surfactant and this mildness was demonstrated in-vitro using the Zein
Protein Solubilisation method. Zein is a water-insoluble protein obtained from maize that is widely used to
model the potential skin irritation and protein denaturation in the presence of surfactants. The method is a well-
known method of investigating the mildness of surfactants and has been shown to have good in-vivo
correlation. The more zein protein solubilised the higher likelihood of skin irritation.

The zein protein solubilisation values of Cithrol 10GTIS and benchmark surfactants were investigated. Briefly,
70mg of zein protein was accurately weighed out into an Eppendorf. To the 70mg of zein protein, 1ml of the
surfactant was added and placed onto a rotary platform and mixed for 20 minutes at a speed of 40 revolutions
per minute. After mixing, to separate the un-solubilised protein from the surfactant mixture, the Eppendorf was
centrifuged at 10,000 revolutions per minute for 4 minutes. The surfactant mixture was pipetted out with the un-
solubilised zein protein remaining at the bottom of the Eppendorf. This zein protein was then heated overnight
at 50°C to remove any residual water remaining. The Eppendorf was again re-weighed to determine the
percentage of zein remaining.

The following surfactant/mixtures were tested as representative of cleanser formulations, each repeated 6
times; 8% SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulphate), 8% SLES (Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulphate), 6% SLES and 3%
Crodateric CAB30 (Cocamidopropyl Betaine), 2% SLES and 7% Crodateric CAB30, 30% Cithrol 10GTIS
and water as a control. All surfactants were made in water w/w and the levels used in testing were
representative of final formulations. The results can be seen in Figure 5 below.

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Figure 5: Graph showing the % solubilised zein protein with a variety of different surfactants against Cithrol
10GTIS and water

The results in Figure 5 show SLS and SLES were very harsh with approximately 92% zein being solubilised. By
combining SLES with differing levels of Crodateric CAB30 the levels of solublised protein were
reduced. Cithrol 10GTIS was extremely mild with solubilisation values similar to water, indicating it will be very
mild on the skin due to lack of protein solubilisation potential.

The skin irritation potential was also tested using the EpiSkinTM Reconstructed Human Epidermis Model to
evaluate Cithrol 10GTIS using cell media and SLS as negative and positive controls, respectively. The
principle of the assay is based on the measurement of cytotoxicity in reconstructed human epidermal cultures
following topical exposure to the test items using a colourimetric assay as an indicator for cytotoxicity. The
enzymatic reduction of a yellow substrate to a blue substrate indicates cell viability. The higher the cell viability,
the less damage the test ingredient has caused the skin model and the milder it will be to the skin.

Briefly, triplicate human epidermis skin models were treated for each test agent. 10µl of the test agent was
applied to the skin models and exposed for 15 minutes. Following exposure, each skin model was rinsed with a
cleaning solution and cell media placed and incubated for 42 hours. Following the 42 hours with the cell media,
the colourimetric cell viability assay was carried out. The Cithrol 10GTIS was used neat on the skin and the
SLS was used at a 5% concentration. The cell viability for each test agent can be seen on the graph in Figure 6
and is shown compared to the negative control which was the cell media.

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Figure 6: Graph showing % cell viability of a negative control against 5% SLS and neat Cithrol 10GTIS

It can be seen in Figure 6 that the cell media as expected does not irritate the skin and so 99.93% of the cells
within the 3D skin model are still viable (alive and functioning). When the skin model is exposed for 15 minutes
to 5% SLS, only 8.57% of the cells are viable and functioning, the rest are non-viable (not functioning and most
likely dead). This shows that application on the skin of this in-vivo would lead to irritation and cell death which
would normally be seen as inflammation and flaking. When neat Cithrol 10GTIS is applied onto the skin model,
cell viability is substantially higher. We can also see no significant difference in cell viability between the
Cithrol 10GTIS and the negative control, the cell media, indicating it is not irritating to the skin and can be
regarded as being mild.

Formulating with Cithrol 10GTIS

To create clear microemulsion systems, the recommended usage level of Cithrol 10GTIS is 30%. The
surfactant should be added to the chosen oils and stirred. The water phase should then be added to the oil
phase with stirring, no heating or homogenisation is required. Cithrol 10GTIS is compatible with a wide range
of oils and emollients but to maintain a clear system, propylene glycol is recommended to be used at a 1:1 ratio
with water within the formulation. The propylene glycol acts as a co-solvent and helps the microemulsion form.

Cithrol 10GTIS Oils Water Propylene Glycol

30% 50% 10% 10%
Table 1: Ratios of ingredients recommended for formulating a microemulsion

To formulate an oil surfactant cleanser, the surfactant level should be reduced to 10-15% depending on the oils
used and the sensory desired. Compatibility with a range of oils has been measured and the results can be
seen in Table 2. Each oil was tested with 10% and 15% Cithrol 10GTIS across a range of temperatures
including 4°, 25°, 40°, 45° and 50°C.

Oil (INCI) 10% Cithrol 10GTIS 15% Cithrol 10GTIS

Arlamol™ HD (Isohexadecane) Clear Clear

Arlamol LST (PPG-3 Isostearyl Methyl
Clear Clear
Ether)
Arlasolve™ DMI (Dimethyl Isosorbide) Clear Clear
Crodamol™ AB (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) Clear Clear

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Crodamol DOA (Diethylhexyl Adipate) Clear Clear
Crodamol GTCC (Caprylic/Capric
Clear Clear
Triglyceride)
Crodamol IPIS (Isopropyl Isostearate) Clear Clear
Crodamol IPM (Isopropyl Myristate) Clear Clear
Crodamol OPG (Ethylhexyl Pelargonate) Clear Clear
Crodamol PTIS (Pentaerythrityl
Clear Clear
Tetraisostearate)
Crodamol SFX (PPG-3 Benzyl Ether
Clear Clear
Ethylhexanoate)
Crodamol STS (PPG 3 Benzyl Ether
Clear Clear
Myristate)
Cromollient™ SCE (Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10
Clear Clear
Adipate)
Cropure™ Olive (Olea Europaea (Olive)
Clear Clear
Fruit Oil)
Cropure Sweet Almond (Prunus
Clear Clear
Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil)
Procetyl™ AWS (PPG-5-Ceteth-20) Clear Clear
Seatons Chia Seed Oil (Salvia Hispanica
Clear Clear
Seed Oil)
Seatons Macadamia Oil (Macadamia
Clear Clear
Ternifolia Seed Oil)
Table 2: Compatibility data of 10% and 15% Cithrol 10GTIS in different neat emollients

Formulations
Advanced Microemulsion Facial Cleanser C2737

Utilising advanced microemulsion technology, this powerful facial cleanser removes make-up and dirt leaving
skin feeling smooth and soft. Cithrol 10GTIS, a mild non-ionic surfactant, balances the hydro and lipophilic
nature of the formulation to create a crystal clear microemulsion while Crodamol IPIS and Arlamol HD combine
to provide highly effective make-up removal. On contact with water, Cithrol 10GTIS emulsifies the oils and dirt
on the face, rinsing away to leave the skin feeling clean and soft with no oily afterfeel.

Product (INCI Name) Functionality % w/w

Phase A
Cithrol™ 10GTIS (PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate)1 Surfactant 30.00
Mineral Oil (Paraffinium Liquidium) Light emollient 15.00
Arlamol™ HD (Isohexadecane)1 Light emollient 10.00
Cyclopentasiloxane Cleansing emollient 20.00
Crodamol™ IPIS (Isopropyl Isostearate)1 Cleansing emollient 5.00
Phase B
Water (Aqua) - 10.00
Propylene glycol Humectant 10.00

Suppliers: 1: Croda

Method
Separately combine Phases A and B. Add Phase B to phase A with stirring.

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Hydrating Cleansing Oil C2746

Leave skin feeling soft, clean and refreshed with this hydrating cleansing oil. Crodamol IPIS provides powerful
cleansing, removing long wear and water-proof make-up with ease, while Crodamol ISIS delivers skin hydration
through a novel mechanism. Originally the super food of the Aztecs, Seatons Chia Seed Oil is a super food for
the skin too with high levels of omega 3 fatty acids, antioxidants and vitamins. Revitalising through gentle
exfoliation, Phytessence Pink Pomelo enhances regeneration to give smoother and healthier skin. On contact
with water these luxurious oils and emollients are emulsified by Cithrol 10GTIS, enabling the oils and dirt to be
rinsed from the face, leaving skin feeling soft and smooth with no oily afterfeel.

Product (INCI Name) Functionality % w/w

Arlamol™ HD (Isohexadecane)1 Light emollient 50.00
Mineral Oil (Liquid Paraffinum) Light emollient with high 12.00
skin play
Crodamol™ GTEH (Triethylhexanoin)1 Medium emollient 10.00
Cithrol™ 10GTIS (PEG-20 GTIS)1 Surfactant 10.00
Crodamol IPIS (Isopropyl Isostearate)1 Cleansing emollient 6.50
Crodmaol ISIS (Isostearyl Isostearate)1 Moisturising emollient 6.50
Seatons Chia Seed Oil (Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil)1 Natural moisturiser 2.00
Seatons Refined Macadamia Oil (Macadamia Conditioning natural oil 2.00
Ternifolia Seed Oil)1
Phytessence™ Pink Pomelo (Glycerin (and) Water (and) Natural exfoliator 1.00
Citrus Paradisi [Grapefruit] Fruit Extract)2

Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: Crodarom

Method
Combine all ingredients with stirring.

References
1. S. Scriven. In K L Mittal, ed. Micellization, Solubilization and Microemulsions, Plenum Press New
York (1977) p. 887

Non-warranty
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its
completeness or accuracy is made. Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the
suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to
information or products including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose, non-infringement of any
third party patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any trademarks identified
herein, unless otherwise noted, are trademarks of the Croda group of companies.
©2015 Croda International Plc

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