Connector 1
A- PINK (or PINK with BLACK stripe) wire. 12 Volts with
Ignition ON.
B- BLACK with WHITE stripe wire. Engine Ground.
Connector 2
A- YELLOW wire. CKP Sensor Signal Circuit.
B- Empty. No circuit exists.
C- PURPLE wire. CKP Sensor Signal Circuit.
Connector 3
A- TAN with BLACK stripe wire. 5 Volt Reference from ECM (above
400 RPM's).
B- WHITE wire. ECM control signal for Ignition Module (above 400
RPM's).
C- WHITE wire. Tach signal (IF EQUIPPED WITH TACHOMETER).
D- Empty. No circuit exists.
E- PURPLE with WHITE stripe wire. Fuel control circuit.
F- RED with BLACK stripe (or TAN with BLACK stripe) wire. ground
circuit for ECM.
TEST 1: Testing The Power Circuit
1. Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode.
2. You can either disconnect the connector or not to test for this
voltage. You'll probe
the A circuit of Connector 1 of the ignition control module.
3. With the red multimeter test lead and a suitable tool, probe the
PINK (or PINK with
BLACK stripe) wire of Connector 1.
4. With the black multimeter test lead probe the battery negative (-)
terminal.
5. Turn Key On with the engine Off.
6. You should see 12 Volts on the multimeter. Do you have 12 Volts?
CASE 1: If your multimeter showed 12 Volts, then everything is OK
on the Power
Circuit.
CASE 2: If your multimeter DID NOT show 12 Volts, then you have
found the cause of the no start condition of your car or truck because
without this voltage, the ignition module will not work. So then, this
result tells you that the ignition module is not at fault.
The most common cause of this missing voltage will be a blown fuse.
Check and repair or replace as necessary. The vehicle should start
now.
TEST 2: Testing The Ground Circuit: Connector 1 Pin B
1. Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode.
2. With the black multimeter test lead and a wire piercing probe,
probe the ignition module connector's BLACK with WHITE stripe
wire.
3. With the red multimeter test lead probe the battery positive (+)
terminal.
4. You should see 12 Volts on the multimeter. Do you have 12 Volts?
CASE 1: If your multimeter registered 12 Volts, then the Ground
Circuit is OK.
CASE 2: If your multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts, then there is
an ‘open’ in this circuit. Just to be sure of this result, repeat the test
after having checked all of your connections. Without a good
Ground, the ignition module will not work. With this result, you have
now eliminated the ignition module as the cause of the no start
problem. Repair the cause of the ‘open’
TEST 3: Testing For The Crankshaft Position Sensor
Signal
You're gonna' probe both wires at the same time to get an AC voltage
reading. This is the A (YELLOW wire) and C (PURPLE wire) circuits of
the connector labeled 2 in the photo below. Since you'll be working
around a cranking engine, use common sense and
take all necessary safety precautions.
1. Put multimeter in AC Volts mode.
2. With Connector 2 disconnected or connected to the ignition control
module.
3. Connect the test leads of the multimeter to either of the two wires
with suitable tools
(the polarity of the multimeter's test leads don't matter on this test).
4. Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the multimeter
(or oscilloscope).
5. The multimeter's AC reading should fluctuate from 0.3 V AC to 1.0 V
AC continuously as the engine is cranking (the maximum AC voltage
attained will depend on the temperature of the engine, oil viscosity and
battery charge condition).
CASE 1: If your multimeter showed an AC voltage reading- Good, this
means that the CKP sensor is working properly. In 99% of the cases,
this tells you that the ignition control module is defective...but not
always. But before I suggest the next test, let me explain that if your
vehicle's ignition module is getting: Power (12 Volts) & Ground. The
crank signal. Go to next Page (Case 2)
It has to start sparking all of the coil packs that sit on
top of it. What sucks is that the crank sensor could be
creating a signal your multimeter is recording, but the
signal is not good enough (if you're using an
Oscilloscope, this is something you don't have to worry
about because the crank sensor signal waveform
you're seeing is not going to lie).
So, I suggest one more test and this is to measure the
resistance of the crank sensor before replacing it.
CASE 2: If your multimeter DID NOT SHOW an AC voltage reading-
Recheck all of multimeter's connections. Try again. If the multimeter still
does not register an AC voltage reading on its screen, the crankshaft
position sensor (CKP) sensor is defective. Replace the crank sensor.
IMPORTANT: The most common cause of a missing signal is the
sensor's wires shorting to ground on the block or the exhaust manifold.
Before you attempt to replace the sensor, remove the wiring from the car
and visually check it first.
TEST 4: CRANK SENSOR RESISTANCE TEST
1. Put your multimeter in Ohms mode.
2. Disconnect connector 2 and: Connect the test leads of the
multimeter to either of the two wires with suitable tools (the
polarity of the multimeter's test leads don't matter on this test).
These two wires are labeled with the letter A and letter C.
3. The multimeter's Ohms reading should read 500 to 900
Ohms.
CASE 1: If your multimeter showed the indicated Ohms
reading, this means that the CKP sensor is working properly.
The ignition control module is defective.Replace it.
CASE 2: If your multimeter DID NOT SHOW the indicated
Ohms reading- Recheck all of multimeter's connections. Try
again. If the multimeter still does not register the indicated
Ohms reading, then the crank sensor is BAD.
