FASHION AND LIFESTYLE PRODUCTS

Submitted to:
Kriti Srivastava

SCHOOL OF CREATIVE BUSINESS

Post Graduate Professional Diploma In Fashion Business

(Marketing & Merchandising) Sem -1

Submitted by: Shubhangi Garg

5000017589

Submitted on: 13th Oct 2021

 FASHION CAPITALS OF THE WORLD

Fashion is everywhere but the trend just not gather everywhere. The fashion trends are mostly
acquired in major fashion cities worldwide. What is ‘in fashion ‘depends on the newest trends
that brought by its fashion cities globally.

A fashion capital is a city which is a major center for the fashion industry and in which activities
including the production and retailing of fashion products, fashion events (such as fashion
weeks and awards) and fashion -related trade fair generate significant economic output. It
basically will have a strong subculture capable of inspiring not only fashion professionals, but
also the citizens of the city, and of turning its street style and street culture into essential
characteristics, they usually have a broad mix of business, entertainment, culture, and leisure
activities and be internationally recognized for having a unique and strong identity.

The 4 major fashion cities in the world –london, New York, Paris, Milan, covers the scope of
fashion world in its network, workers, and products. The trends that specifically innovates in
rebirth of these major fashion cities who grant an extra sensational aspect of our fashion
lifestyle. Fashion culture in these cities is greater aspect of fashion trend worldwide. It’s the
glorious contribution every made by these major fashion cities which implicates their tribute
into the transitions of every fashion generation worldwide. Like in designer clothing industry,
these major fashion cities conclave its brands of designer clothes. The network of designer
clothing brands in these fashion cities reflects as booming networks because of the fashion
houses throughout the vicinity of the cities. These major cities are the business capital of well-
known designer’s brand companies.

Let us now, know about these cities in detail and how their fashion culture differentiates to
each other and how do their fashion culture affect the fashion trends of today’s generation.
Let us explore and see their contributions and tribute in the world fashion.
SOURCE: FASHIONHISTORY/ LOVE TO KNOW
What is fashion capital?

Fashion capital is where the fashion industry has a relevant and important position for the local
economy. Production and exporting of fashion goods, as well as fashion events like fashion
weeks, trade fairs and awards, boosts its economy and raises its annual revenue, positively
influencing other sectors of the local economy, like the service sector. Often the term fashion
capital is used to describe the cities that hold fashion weeks, most prominently Paris , Milan,
london and New York , to showcase their industry also various other cities host notable fashion
events and are influential in global fashion.

Traditionally, there are four main fashion capitals known as the "big four", consisting of london,
new York , Milan and Paris. Nonetheless, the "big four" is often extended to include other
cities, such as Tokyo or Rome. Despite this, in ranking terms, the "big five “are usually
classified as the top five fashion capitals of the world, this is not always the case, as can be
seen in 2009, where Rome came fourth and london fifth, or in 2010, when Tokyo came second
and Milan placed itself sixth. As of 2011, london has been ranked as the top fashion capital of
the world.

SOURCE : Netivist.com
History of fashion capitals

Fashion and political power have often intertwined in history, and this can be seen in classical
history, where the major political powers of the world, such as Rome, Athens, Alexandria, were
global leaders, in their respective eras and parts of the world, when it came to clothing.
N history, several cities have been, in turn, fashion capitals. Furthermore, during the
renaissance era, different city-states in what would become modern-
Day Italy, were Europe’s main trendsetters, due to the cultural power that these cities exerted
in that period of time; this includes cities such as Florence, Rome, Venice, and Milan.
However, as one progressed into the late-16th century, with the influence of the Elizabethan
era, the English court, or more specifically, london, became a major city in European fashion;
similarly, due to the power of Spain at the period, the Spanish court influenced fashion, making
it a major center. In the 17th century, as the renaissance started to fade away, with the power
of the French court under louis xiv, Paris established itself as europe's main fashion center,
and would remain the world's undisputed fashion capital until the 1960s and 70s. In the
victorian era, with the powerful British empire, london also became a major fashion center, it
still looked up to Paris for stylistic inspiration. Throughout the 20th century, new York city grew
as a fashion capital, and in the 1950s, Florence re-emerged as a leading city in haute couture.
Paris' complete dominance of the fashion world lasted until the 1960s, when other cities
rivalled Paris' dominance with regards to haute couture. In the 1980s, however, Milan, with its
everyday, practical chic, and minimalistic fashion houses, also emerged as one of the leading
fashion capitals of the world. Ever since then, london, Tokyo, new York city, Milan and Paris
have been the leading cities in global fashion, making up the "big five".
Milan

Milan is a fast-paced city with a thriving cultural scene and is a great city for shopping. It also
holds its share of artistic and historical sites, including the largest gothic cathedral in the world.
The art galleries of Milan also reflect the history of the city. Everything from modern art to
contemporary architecture is the pride of the city.

Milan, also known as the fashion capital of the world, hosts some of the best fashion designers
in the world. Most of the main shopping outlets are located near the downtown. The throbbing
heart of milan is piazza del duomo. The whole city seems to revolve around the square with
people everywhere, either on their way to the office, out for shopping, off to the theatre, or else
slowly strolling around under the gorgeous
arcade of galleria Vittorio Emanuele ii.
Milan is a paradise for fashion freaks and
shoppers. You could easily get top quality
clothing, footwear, and accessories.
During the 17th-early 20th centuries, Italian
fashion lost its importance and luster.
However, since the 1951-53 fashion soirees
held by Giovanni Battista Georgina in
Florence, the "Italian school" started to
compete with the French haute couture, and
labels such as Ferragamo and Gucci began to
contend with channel and Dior. Throughout
the late 19th century, being one of the main
industrial and economic powerhouses of the
country, the city was a major production center within the trade.
Throughout the 20th century, the city developed its role as a fashion center, with a number of
rising designers and figures within the industry which contributed to Milan’s image as a stylistic
capital. Milan is especially known for its role within the prêt-à- porter category of fashion

History Of Milan

Paris was considered the first capital of fashion in the 18th century thanks to Marie
Antoinette’s personal designer, rose bertin transformed the French queen into one of the very
first arbiters of fashion, it was Florence that was the scene of the first “italian haute couture
show”, considered by all the press and international buyers attending the show, as a
revolutionary event. On february the 12th 1951, IMAGE1.3
georgina, considered the first promoter of the
“made in italy style” organized a fashion SOURCE : Wikipedia.org
presentation in the salon of his wonderful residence, villa torrigiani, in florence, and invited
some important american buyers to come to tuscany to attend it, on their way back home from
the paris fashion shows. This first italian high fashion show was seen as a positive success
story, quite a revolution because, for the first-time outside paris, a fashion parade had been
exclusively organized for foreign buyers and journalists. That special occasion sealed the
overseas success of some of the best italian designers such as giovanna caracciolo, alberto
fabiani, emilio pucci, emilio schuberth.

In 1952, after the success of his first italian fashion parade in the salon of his villa, giorgini
organized a new, more complete, fashion presentation, choosing as the venue the impressive
white room at palazzo pitti. He divided the show into categories. The first section was devoted
to boutique collections of leisure wear, which had proved to be very popular with us buyers,
followed by sportswear and finishing off with the “haute couture”. It was a sophisticated division
that differentiated the italian fashion show from paris and the world press responded
enthusiastically. Florence would remain the center of italian fashion till the end of the 70’s,
and every designer aspired to present their collections in the white room, as being invited to
take part in the show was a symbol of prestige and a much sought after honor. Then the
situation changed, florence lost its position of supremacy in the fashion field and the italian
fashion shows moved to milan. The name of the show was changed to milan fashion week,
now a world-famous fashion event which, twice a year, focuses everybody’s attention on the
newest styles and colors proposed by world famous italian designers.

In 1968 a revolution took place against the political system, which started in france and moved
rapidly to italy too. Women started fighting for equal rights and, for the first time started wearing
trousers. Elio fiorucci took advantage of this situation and promoted jeans for women to wear
here in italy, locating his shop in san babila square, in milan, which became a center of trend
setting style.
In the 70’s fashion entered a new period as “assembly line “boomed as business men started
producing t-shirts , skirts , jackets in bulk making fashion more accessible in terms of price
designers were no longer considered to be luxury tailors but creators of a style that should be
affordable for everybody. Milan soon became the new capital of prêt-à-porter and the big
textile industries started employing talented designers to give a distinctive touch to their
creations. So, in 1973, a young designer called gianni versace started designing models for
“genny” while another young designer, giorgio armani, designed his first creations for an
important financial textile group.

The focus of fashion, inevitably moved to milan, also because the town offered all the comforts
and convenience for business development: international airports, conference halls, majestic
hotels for press conferences or receiving important guests. Moreover, milan was the home of
some of the most important italian fashion periodicals. He episode which underlined the
definitive moving of fashion from florence to milan was an accident involving missoni fashion
house in 1967. Just minutes before presenting their show at the sala bianca of palazzo pitti,
in florence, ottavio and rosita missoni noticed that the lingerie worn by the models was
unsuitable for the light lamè dresses. However, it was too late to change anything. The models
walked down the catwalk with their lingerie showing. Press and buyers applauded the bold
idea promoted by missoni but the following year, missoni were not invited to take part in the
show. So, they decided to present their creations anyway, choosing a milanese swimming
pool as their setting. The success was enormous and the popularity they achieved convinced
the other italian designers to abandon the florentine sala bianca in palazzo pitti and move their
collections to milan, choosing a special set which would better enhance the originality of their
creations.
In 1975 the italian camera della moda, presented its first official calendar of fashion shows
and milan celebrated its success. In 1978 about 51 collections were shown over 6 days
including many italian brands such as missoni, fendi, genny, mario valentino, enrico coveri,
mila schon, roberta di camerino and laura biagiotti.
More than 30 years have passed since that event, but milan continues to be the pulsating
heart of italian fashion, attracting every year thousands of people, fashion journalists and
buyers coming from all the countries in the world, for the traditional “milan fashion week”, to
see the new proposals for the coming seasons, sure to find in it the best of luxury and
elegance, the pure essence of tradition and attention to detail; in other words, the genuine
“made in italy” style.

IMAGE 1.4 : Roberto Cavalli at Milan Fashion

Week
SOURCE : graziamagzine.com

Milan fashion week

Milan fashion week is a famous fashion week held semi-annually in milan , italy spring/summer
event held in february – march of each year and autumn/ winter event held in september –
october of each year . Milan fashion week, established in 1958 is part of the big 4 fashion
weeks internationally, the others being paris fashion week, london fashion week and new york
fashion week. The schedule begins with new york, followed by london, and then milan, and
ending the events in paris.

The milan fashion week is owned by camera nazionale della moda italian a (in english the
national chamber for italian fashion), a non-profit association which disciplines, co-ordinates
and promotes the development of italian fashion and is responsible for hosting the fashion
events and shows of milan. Proprietors of the most important haute couture establishments in
italy, including some private establishments, which, in those days, played a crucial role in the
promotion of this sector, were present at the memorandum of association: maria antonelli,
roberto cappucci, princess caracciolo ginnetti, alberto fagiani, giovanni cesare guidi, germana
marucelli, emilio federico schuberth, simonetta colonna di cesarò, jole veneziani, francesco
borrello, giovanni battista giorgini and the lawyer pietro parisio.

The events dedicated to women's fashion are the most important (womenswear / milan ss
women ready to wear. The events dedicated to men include menswear

IMAGE1.5 : Dolce & Gabana at Milan

Fashion Week
SOURCE : aeworld.com

Top italian designers and brands

• Emilio pucci
• Gianfranco ferree
• Franco moschino
• Tod’s
• Salvatore ferragamo
• Gucci
• Armani
• Valentino
• Prada
• Dolce & gabbana
• Roberto cavalli
• Versace
• Fendi
• Bottega veneta
Image : Fendi at Milan Fashion Week
SOURCE : harpersbazaar.in

IMAGE : VERSACE MODEL AT IMAGE : DOLCE & GABANA

MILAN FASHION WEEK SOURCE : shutterstock.com
SOURCE : graiamagazine.com
Paris

With a pedigree that extends through history, paris is the grande dame of all the fashion
capitals. Its magnificent palaces, elegant boulevards, and romantic neighborhoods have
inspired designers and artists for centuries; and today the names of parisian couturiers like
coco chanel, christian dior, and yves saint laurent are as synonymous with the city as landmark
attractions like the eiffel tower, notre dame, and arc de triomphe. Its reputation for being
impeccably chic is long-standing, and one that paris carries as confidently as a louis vuitton
bag. Paris also has its most prominent fashion destination; 'the golden triangle' which is formed
between the avenue marceau, the champs- elysées, and the avenue montaigne. It also has
specific roads such as the rue du faubourg- st-honoré that are dedicated exclusively to fashion.
Whether it's the french movies or the opera, fashion has always been a part of the french
culture and continues to manifest itself through every walking person you see on the parisian
streets. Paris also holds two of the world's most prominent fashion shows and as far as clothes
are concerned, there's always something for everyone .
Golden triangle - a shopping district in paris dedicated exclusively to high fashion clothes and
accessories. The triangle lives between the avenue marceau, the champs-elysees and the
avenue montaigne. In it, you will find the homes of vuitton, givenchy, rochas, dior, celine,
chanel, donna karan and hermes, just to start you off.

History of Paris fashion

Haute couture began in the 18th century, but the french had been looked to with admiration
or disdain in their dress sense well before that. In the 16th century, Anne Boleyn was famous
for wearing a French-style hood, which showed her hair and had a generally provocative style.
Even then, the French were famous for their liberal attitude towards sexuality.

In the 18th century, couturier rose bertin was named the minister for fashion and the position
was still retained in the napoleonic era. Initially, it was the rich and powerful telling the
designers what they wanted to wear in clothes, but in the 19th century, this changed. It was,
surprisingly, an englishman working in paris who became the father of modern haute couture
when charles worth put his name on his clothing labels. He went a step further, creating
designs based on his own ideas and displaying them on live models so that clients could
approve or disapprove. The novelty was a success and designers then began to dictate what
was fashionable.
 IMAGE : CHARLES WORTH
GARMENT
SOURCE :hadleycourt.com

From then on, it was understood that any designer who wanted to be a success had to be in
paris and become part of a couture house or form their own. Paris was the home of fashion
shows and all the fashion magazines were either based in or looked to paris for their
information. For women throughout the western world, paris was the be all and end all of
clothes. London, new york and milan can all lay claim to some fashion influence. Especially
during world war ii, new york and london made inroads while paris was occupied by germany.
But when the war was over, designers returned to paris and couture reigned again. Chanel
was still popular, but dior became one of the most influential designers of the mid-century.
Joined by yves saint laurent and other prominent designers, paris cemented its hold on style.
The idea of a “paris original” may not thrill women the way it once did, but people certainly still
respond to interesting, inventive and wearable clothes – and item for item, the bulk of those
still come from paris.
The most famous of these fashion houses was coco chanel who changed women’s clothing
completely with her flowing designs. However, during the second world war, many fashion
houses were forced to close.

Post-war, the clothing industry was brought around by the visionary french designer, christian
dior. Dominating post-war fashion dior created the “new look”, characterized by the nipped-in
waist and an a-line skirt falling to mid-calf perfectly made for a feminine and elegant silhouette.

The most significant challenge to france’s pre-eminence came during the 1960s, when the
young yves saint laurent produced the first ready-to-wear collection. The couture brand
transformed fashion with this very popular and much more accessible attire. And nowadays,
almost all of the couture brands produce ready-to-wear lines.

Paris fashion week

It is one of the most glamorous and exciting event of fashion industry that is celebrated for a
week in the fashion capital. Both established and upcoming fashion designers of paris and
other eminent fashion houses participate in the event to feature their new collection. Designers
from all over the world participate in this event. Paris fashion week in france is a mega event
that exhibit the creations of most of the popular fashion houses like giorgio armani, alberta
ferretti, guess, eres, armani exchange, hugo boss, genny, ghost, diesel,christian dior, dkny,
givenchy, chanel, gucci, dolce & gabbana, cerruti 1881, gianfranco ferre', elizabeth emanuel,
e-xentric, dorothy grant and all.

Designers such as charles worth (in the late 19th century) and paul poiret (in the early 20th
century) toyed with the possibility of presenting their garments in action. At the same time,
lady duff-gordon (designing under the moniker lucile) was doing similar in london. Poiret —
who was known for his opulent, flowing designs — settled on combining commerce with
socialising, throwing a series of lavish balls where attendees were asked to come dressed in
their finest. One of the most notable was the thousand and second night party in 1911, where
poiret presented lampshade dresses and harem trousers.

1920s -1930s : paris had become a hothouse of renowned names: from coco chanel’s
understated ease to elsa schiaparelli’s surreal experiments to madeleine vionnet’s fluid
draping. Shows became less of a big party, instead much smaller and more individualised:
each fashion house would present their collections on a series of models, at exclusively client-
only events. With anxiety high about designs being copied, these were closely guarded affairs.
A world away from the constellation of cameras today, photographers were strictly not allowed.

1940s : Paris was feeling nervous about the rising influence of new York’s fashion industry,
where the war had encouraged support of us-based designers at their first press week in 1943.
But the French capital had a secret weapon: Christian Dior. In 1947, Dior’s first collection
— corolla, which was attended by huge numbers of fashion press and was allowed to be
photographed — helped to reset the sartorial agenda with exaggerated silhouettes. Doing
away with the war’s boxy pragmatism, Dior’s new look was all voluminous skirts, small waists
and deliberate femininity.
1970-1980: the first official Paris fashion week happened in 1973 with the formation of the
federation Françoise de la couture, and opened with the game-changing battle of versailles
fashion show. This fight — of the sartorial variety only — saw the historic tensions between
paris and new york fashion brought to life on stage as five of the biggest french designers
were pitted against five unknown americans.

Battle of versailles

The event, which was a fundraiser to restore the palace of versailles, featured yves saint
laurent, emanuel ungaro, christian dior (then designed by marc bohan), pierre cardin and
hubert de givenchy on the french side, against anne klein, halston, oscar de la renta, bill blass
and stephen burrows representing america. Despite the theatrics, including rhino-led caravans
and cinderella-style pumpkin coaches from the french, it was the americans, with their
predominantly african-american model line-up and an appearance from liza minnelli, who are
widely accepted as the winners.
 IMAGE : BATTLE OF VERSAILLES
FASHION SHOW
SOURCE : harpersbazzar.com

Shows only became more audacious, from thierry mugler’s 1984 extravaganza at le zenith
stadium (with an audience of 6,000) to jean paul gaultier’s show-stopping conical bra, which
debuted the same year and was made famous by madonna when she wore his designs for
her 1990 blonde ambition world tour. Chanel’s self-referential revival at the hands of karl
lagerfeld in the 1980s yielded plenty of memorable runway moments, while the establishment
of a new wave of japanese designers including yohji yamamoto and comme des garçons led
to revolutionary ways of thinking when it came to style.
Today, paris’s shows are more dramatic than ever. As custom-built sets are now the norm for
many brands, pfw has seen backdrops replicating train stations and supermarkets, airports
and merry-go-rounds. Plenty of these ambitious settings came courtesy of the late karl
lagerfeld’s tenure at chanel, each season attempting to top the last.

Top french fashion houses are :

• Celine
• Chanel
• Balenciaga
• Chloe
• Hermes
• Dior
• Givenchy
• Yves saint laurent
• Louis vuitton
• Jean- paul gaultier
IMAGE : BALENCIAGA AT AUTUMN WINTER 2019

SOURCE : fashiontography.com
 London

Famous for setting trends and sporting the latest couture, the london fashion scene is a
diverse array of style and design which has been influencing trends around the world for many
decades. One of the world’s most creative cities, the streets of london are lined with quirky
boutiques, thriving markets and high-end shops offering collections of sought after items
alongside unique, one-off designs.
The fascinating history behind london’s fashion industry has helped to shape the city into what
it is today, and contributed to its remarkable reputation as a central hub for innovative style.
While trends come and go, and the fashion is ever-changing, one thing that’s remained the
same throughout the years is that london famously carries the style of the upper class,
influenced by english royalty and leads the way in smart sharp tailoring, shoe making and fine
hand-crafting.

London history as a fashion capital

It played a key role in the international fashion system though, as london dominated the field
in the export of unfinished products and materials such as wool and silk, while also importing
high-end luxury items such as embroideries and fur. Life in london during medieval times was
entirely different depending on whether you were rich or poor. The rich could afford these
luxury items, and the poor could only dream to.

It wasn’t long before london became the

place that the richest and most influential of
people flocked to, following the unmissable
presence of parliament, law courts and
political parties in the city. The palaces of
royalty such as henry viii, elizabeth i, and
charles i all resided in london, and this
drove the influence of luxury fashion and
true english style, for which london seeked
the expert craftmanship of quality produce
such as leather goods from the likes of
france and italy.

Nothing was understated in 18th century

fashion. This was the time that we saw
beautiful silk embroidery, exaggerated
wigs, elaborate full dresses and skirts for
women, and formal knee-length coats for
men. London’s fashion scene blossomed
during this period, as they excelled in sharp
tailoring, fitted gowns and silhouette-
enhancing ensembles, much like the
Source : marieclarei.com
influences from english royalty. London’s substantial development during this period,
combined with the flourishing social scene – which involved balls, theatre shows and court
presentations – contributed to the city’s rising success which encouraged craftsmen and
clothing entrepreneurs to set up their base in the capital.

18th century : victorian fashion saw clothes modernised for both men and women. Men’s
tail coats were shortened at the front and trousers were now more accepted and fashionable.
Ladies formal gowns still incorporated corsets, but waistlines were dropped to reveal a more
natural silhouette and short puff sleeves were all the rage. During this time, london’s clothing
industry rapidly expanded and the west end earned its reputation for producing and selling
high-end, up market luxuries while the more working-class areas of the east end became the
home of lower value manufacturing, and still to this day remains an amalgamation of cultures
with a strong industrial background.

20th century : British fashion in the saw an array of different trends and styles, changing
substantially from decade to decade. The shift in styles in this period is fascinating, and was
largely influenced by key events in history which were
happening at the time. During world war ii it became more
acceptable for women to wear trousers due to the rationing
of fabrics. Following the end of the war, women began to
express themselves through more stylish fashion – a time
which saw full skirts becoming the height of fashion.
Late 20th century saw rebellious fashion and outlandish
styles take centre stage with thanks to the influences of the
mods of 1960s carnaby street and the punks of 1970s
king’s road. This was a trend that was adopted worldwide,
and fast tracked london into the limelight as one of the
major trend-setting capitals of the world. Source :vouge.com

London fashion week

An incredibly crucial part of the global fashion market, london fashion week is the twice-
yearly highlight of the capital’s fashion calendar, and takes pride in operating as part of the
fashion week big four alongside new york, paris and milan. It’s all about fearless imagination,
with designers who specialize in tongue-in-cheek rebellion, outrageous displays and the
blurring of the lines between art and commerce.

However, it was in the following decade that london fashion week as we know it today was
born, with the creation of the british fashion council in 1983, followed by the first official london
fashion week in 1984. That same year saw the inaugural designer of the year award. The
accolade was won by katharine hamnett , who later caused a stir during her infamous meeting
with margaret thatcher when she wore a t-shirt emblazoned with the anti-nuclear message
“58% don’t want pershing”. Hamnett got the result she wanted with thatcher
apparently squawking like a chicken and photographers capturing the moment.
The first location for lfw was a car park. The commonwealth institute’s car park in kensington,
to be precise. Over the rest of the 1980s both this venue and kensington olympia would host
designers from ghost, to betty jackson, to jasper conran, to a young john galliano .
London’s fashion scene at that time was hugely influenced by clubs, counterculture and
forward-thinking design. Cult labels like body map, with its distinctive shapes and use of
diverse models, paved the way for much-needed changes in the industry, which even today
some brands have been slow to instate. The establishment, however, embraced the scene,
with princess diana holding a reception for various designers at lancaster house in 1985, and
often wearing british designers both at home and abroad.

In 1993 campbell also featured in a particularly memorable lfw moment when she took to the
catwalk topless for philip treacy. London lost some of its key talents – mcqueen heading off to
new york in the late 1990s and various others headhunted by french design houses in the
early 2000s – plenty more brands flourished, including matthew williamson, john rocha
and julien macdonald, who was one of several designers to capitalise on the public’s love of
the spice girls by sending mel b sashaying down his catwalk in glittering pink in 1999.
With the arrival of a new millennium, hussein chalayan – already well-loved for his avant-garde
approach to cladding the body – put on a show in which the background furniture was
transformed into wearable attire. It
culminated in the incredible sight of a
model stepping into the centre of a
coffee table that then concertinaed up
into a triangular skirt

From christopher kane’s neon-bright

debut and gareth pugh’s gothic,
angular garments to a whole host of
other new names including jonathan
saunders, erdem moralioglu, mary
katrantzou and roksanda ilincic,
london’s upcoming generation of
talented garment makers secured its
reputation afresh.
And to top it all, in 2009 heritage
brand burberry returned from milan to
home soil, live-streaming its show to
an eager online audience the
following february. Other designers
returning to london in 2009 included
matthew williamson, paul smith and
luella, and it was also the first year
that somerset house hosted lfw, with
shows among its handsome buildings
and heels clacking over its courtyard
cobbles. The move coincided with the
Source :vogue.com
rise of street style, with a handful of roving photographers quickly becoming an ever-expanding
gaggle over the following years.

London fashion houses

• Stella mccartney
• Alexander mcqueen
• Paul smith
• John galliano
• Burberry

Source : harpersbazar.com
 New York

Each neighborhood in this city has its own look, its own take on what it means to be from new
york. Stroll along the upper east side and find your classic Manhattanize donning designer
labels, hop up to harlem for some unique urban chic, cruise to the east village and witness the
fresh flare of hipsterdom. No matter where you are, though, these fashion boundaries are
constantly blending while new and exciting styles continually evolve.
New york has made a name for itself as one of the most diverse and influential fashion capitals
in the industry. Its strong urban essence has flourished in the style stakes, with much of its
characteristics rising from its fame in sportswear clothing.
Since its growth in fashion power since the 20th century, we’ve seen new york fashion develop
its own status in high-class fashion design, with many design schools creating key designers
of present day.

Although there are plenty of high end and luxury shopping districts, there are also plenty of
the latter. Flea markets, thrift shops and vintage shops scatter the city offering the perfect
shopping experience for unique shoppers. These stores give new york fashionistas the option
to improvise, mix and match and the chance to embrace the city’s well-known urban
influences.

New york as a fashion capital

By the 1880s millions eastern europe jewish immigrants flooded onto america’s shores.
Nyc experienced the largest influx of immigration to the point that the lower east side became
the most densely populate place on earth. You’ll be lucky to see signs here in english or to
find an empty street!
1860s america. Ready-to-wear clothing exploded in popularity! But why? Two reasons.
1. Sewing machines getting smaller and affordable.
2. The civil war. Millions of measurements were obtained by the u.s. military. Making well-
developed systems for boys and mens sizing available to the masses.
The eastern european jewish immigrants came to the right place at the right time because a
many of them were already textile and garment workers back in their homeland. This was their
chance to make it in america!
Hundreds of sweatshops opened in this neighborhood. They were crowded, poorly ventilated,
and prone to fires. Also many high-class new yorkers feared that disease would spread
through these garments.
The city imposed heavy regulations and thus the sweatshops of the lower east side had to
move to the lofts of greenwich village.
On 25th march 1911 , Greenwich village
A triangle shirtwaist factory . A fire erupted and the
people working their was stuck as it was a common
practice in that time to lock in the garment workers
to prevent them from taking unauthorized breaks
and stealing any garments . Some women manged
to escape , but the fire spread everywhere! While
the buildings structure was iron and steel , the
flooring was wood , and the garments used at the
time were highly flammable . Women jumped down
the elevator shaft to their deaths .146 people died
in total , 123 of them were women . The city was in
shock . The garment industry once again came under the gauntlet of city regulations .
Demanding for these factories to be fireproof , with fire escapes and large windows , along
with providing more humane working conditions .

From 1860s onwards was the premiere shopping district of new york city. This was the birth
of the department store including bergdorf goodman, lord & taylor, tiffany & co., and macy’s.
Thousands of high-class women strutted along this stretch in manhattan underneath the
elevated railroad.
The high-class of new york was up in arms with the working-class being at their doorstep.
Thus a group of aristocrats, realtors, and high-end business owner posted a full page in the
new york times reading “shall we save new york?” Urging the city and public at large to stop
the garment factories from moving northward on 5th, and in turn issuing a strong warning to
garment industrialists that their lives would be made really hardSource
if they 6sqft.com
choose to not comply.
Most of the garment industry was owned and run by eastern europeans, who were still a
minority in america, they had no choice but to seek to build their garment factories elsewhere.
Thus they set their sites on an area of new york that no one else dared to move to. The
tenderloin.

“the tenderloin”, this was was the seediest area in manhattan. No upper class lady or
gentlemen wouldn’t dare find themselves wandering this area. That meant one thing and one
thing only to the garmentos. Land prices were cheap. Very cheap.
The first two garment factories to go up were the garment capitol center flanking seventh
avenue on 37th street. 14 and 21 stories tall respectively. Ushering in the era of the skyscraper
industrial building. In the course of only 10 years, over 130 garment factories were built here.

Fashion icons like ralph lauren, calvin klein, and donna karan all got their start here in the
1960s. All of them jewish-americans from nyc. Then designers coming from other cities came
to seventh avenue like oscar de la renta. All four, among many others, were located right here
at 550 seventh avenue. And becoming massive global brands selling billions in merchandise.
This neighborhood in the middle of manhattan, which only takes 10 minutes to walk from end-
to-end is the reason why new york became a fashion capital. Producing some of the biggest
names known worldwide due to support from the marketing machines of madison avenue and
the financial stronghold of wall street and most importantly, minorities from eastern europeans
to italians to african-americans to puerto ricans to asian-americans and latin americans.
New York fashion week

The first new York fashion week, then called press week, was the
world's first organized fashion week. Held in 1943, the event was
designed to attract attention away from French fashion during
World War ii, when fashion industry insiders were unable to travel
to Paris to see french fashion shows. Fashion publicist eleanor
lambert organized an event she called "press week" to showcase
american designers for fashion journalists, who had previously
neglected their innovations. Press week was a success, and
fashion magazines like vogue, which were normally filled with french designs, increasingly
featured american fashion.
The fall 2009 fashion week the
public got a taste of technology as
it is shaping the future of fashion. It
is not only making it cheaper and
easier for designers to create their
collections, it is also saving them
travel time as many broadcast their
lines over the internet. Many
designers opted to not only market
online but also sell exclusively
online. Designer norma kamali and Source : vogue.in
the polo ralph lauren rugby brand
both have an application for the
apple iphone. In the vivienne tam
show, models walked the runway carrying hewlett packard mini notebook computers instead
of the expected handbag.

Because of the recession affecting most of the world, designers were stepping outside of the
box for fall 2009. In previous years, fashion houses would be expecting costs up to $750,000
to produce a quality runway show. The idea of using mannequins to display clothing was used
by established designers betsey johnson and vera wang as a way to cut model and runway
costs. Mara hoffman, sergio davila and nicholas k saved 40 percent of their costs by combining
their separate lines into one show. Another trend seen during fall 2009 fashion week was
recession friendly fashion. A number of pieces displayed were items that could be worn in the
fall and carry over to the spring. A popular staple was bold color dressed that could be worn
over a turtleneck in colder weather and stand alone in the spring; convertible blazers were
introduced by vera wang and karen walker as a way to get double the wear out of one piece.
Mercedes-benz fashion week partnered with fashion gps, a new technology that offered quick
seating and check-in for guests at the shows. Mercedes-benz fashion week is perhaps the
most well- known event held during new york fashion week, but not the only one. Many top-
name designers show their collections at other Source
venues,:vogue.uk.in
including ralph lauren, donna karan,
calvin klein and marc jacobs. Dozens of other fashion shows and related events are held
around the city during new york fashion week, including couture fashion week ny at the
waldorf-astoria and ifashion week by ifashion network and iconcept media group focusing on
emerging and independent designers.

New york fashion designers

• Marc jacobs
• Vera wang
• Oscar de la renta
• Calvin klein
• Kate spade
• Donna karan (dkny )
• Ralph lauren
• Anna sui
• Aeropostale
• Tom ford
• Carolina herrera
• Tory burch
 TOKYO

Japanese fashions are known for being playful and kawaii (“cute”). The japanese
themselves are known are being obsessed with clothes, gadgets and accessories. These
days there is a very active street fashion scene in tokyo, osaka and other cities. Fashion
trends in japan are closely watched by young people in hong kong. South korea and
thailand and to some extent by young people in europe and north america.

History of fashion in japan

After the beginning of the meiji period (1868--1912), western-style uniforms were adopted for
persons serving in the military services, for policemen, and for postal carriers. This provided
a particularly strong impetus to the great
changes that occurred over time in
japanese dress. However, in the early
meiji period the kimono predominated.
For formal occasions men typically
wore haori (traditional
waistcoats), hakama, and western-style
hats, while some women, otherwise
dressed in japanese style, took to
wearing western-type boots. This mixed
japanese-western style of boots with
kimono may still be seen today among
young women attending university
graduation ceremonies. By the beginning of the showa period (1926--1989), men’s clothing
had become largely western, and the business suit was standard apparel for company
employees. Western clothing was also often worn by working women

In 1940s , as the second world war ended , women discarded loose-fitting pantaloons and
started wearing skirts . At that time japan was mostly influenced by united states . From the
late 1940s and into the 1950s, women were fond of the so-called “american style” with narrow-
waisted long skirts flaring out at the bottom and wide belts. Dior’s new look made its way to
japan, via the united states, the next year. Japanese women were caught up in a flurry of
interest in this “new look” that was becoming popular around the world.

In 1960s ,it was a time of transition from up-market haute couture to lower-cost ready-to-wear
fashion items referred to in japanese by the term puretaporute (from the french prêt-à-porter),
and from the formal to the casual. The miniskirts exhibited in the paris collection in the spring
of 1965 were immediately introduced to japan. The mass media objected that miniskirts were
not suited to japanese women’s physiques, but after the visit to japan in 1967 of the english
model twiggy, who was known as the “miniskirt queen,” these items became very popular.
Miniskirts were adopted first by younger women and then by older women as well, and they
remained a well-established fashion item widely worn until around 1974. In the case of men’s
fashion, some big changes came after the mid-
1960s. In particular, there was the appearance of
the “ivy style,” which paid homage to the supposed
fashions of students in america’s elite “ivy league”
private universities. This style took up the traditional
fashions of america’s elite class, and though it went
through several minicycles of popularity and
decline, it spread from young company employees
to the middle-aged. In contrast to the fashions
popular among young people, the suits worn by
company employees tended to be conservative
dark tones of grey, with the result that japanese
company employees came to be referred to
sardonically as dobunezumi-zoku

1980s, women’s fashions branched out in two

directions, one known as the bodikon (body-
conscious) style, emphasizing the natural lines of
the body, and the other known as shibukaji (shibuya casual), originating among high school
and university students who frequented the boutiques of tokyo’s shibuya ward shopping
streets. Around this time the “body-conscious” clothing worn by increasing numbers of women
seen dancing in japan’s discos became a frequent topic of conversation. The basic concept
behind the popular shibukaji style was simplicity and durability. Even among the company
employees previously known as “gutter rats,” younger people increasingly began to wear
fashionable brand-name apparel. Today, the concepts of “plain” and “sober” are still
characteristic of the basic uniform of japan’s salaryman. On the other hand, there have been
some changes in ideas about the sorts of clothing that are appropriate for business society.

Tokyo fashion week

Tokyo has a lively fashion scene. It hosts fall and spring fashion shows---japan fashion
weeks in march and october---like paris, milan and new york. In recent years these shows
have attracted about 60 or so designers. Japan fashion week is supported by both the
government and private industry with the aim of popularizing japanese fashion around the
world. The autumn/winter japan fashion week, held in mid-march, displays autumn and
winter clothes for upcoming year the event is centered around the neighborhood of
nihonbashi in tokyo with shuttle bus service between the tents. One of the main goals of
the event is to spread the word of japanese fashions to the rest of the world. In the 2008
show, 45 brands displayed their clothes, and 201 journalists and buyers from 20 nations
showed up.
Tokyo fashion collections are crucial in setting trends for the following season. Those invited
to runway shows are usually retail buyers and media, not the general public. In other fashion
capitals, such as new york and paris, various events targeting general consumers have been
organized during their fashion weeks, allowing a wider range of people to enjoy the once-
exclusive extravaganzas.

Japan fashion houses

• Yohji yamamoto Source :saugijapan.in
• Kenzo
• Isset miyake
• Commes des garcons
• Bape
• Edwin
• Uniqlo
• Baby
• Mastermind
• Hysteric glamour

Conclusion
The biggest fashion houses and brands are located in these cities, the most influential
designers work there, fashion fairs, exhibitions and award shows take place, the biggest
fashion magazines are published here, so practically everything concerning the world of
fashion starts from these capitals. Their reign on the world of fashion is underlined by the fact
that they host the most awaited and most important fashion weeks which will define the newest
trends. All the trend that you see , wear all these originates from these fashion capitals .
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