Lonely Planet - East Africa
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Pablo de MelloLonely Planet - East Africa
Uploaded by
Pablo de Mello© Lonely Planet Publications
Contents
The Authors 14 Eating
Drinking
122
123
Entertainment 123
Getting Started 16 Shopping
Getting There & Away
124
124
Getting Around 126
Itineraries 21 AROUND DAR
ES SALAAM 126
Southern Beaches 126
Snapshot 27 Northern Beaches
Pugu Hills
127
128
Offshore Islands 128
History 28 ZANZIBAR
ARCHIPELAGO 128
Zanzibar 130
The Culture 33 Around Zanzibar
Pemba
144
151
NORTHEASTERN
TANZANIA 157
The Peoples of East
46
Bagamoyo 158
Africa Saadani Game Reserve 160
Pangani 161
Environment 73 Tanga
Around Tanga
162
164
Muheza 165
Safaris 83 Korogwe
Usambara Mountains
165
165
Pare Mountains 168
Wildlife Guide 57 NORTHERN TANZANIA
Moshi
169
170
Marangu 174
Mountain Gorillas 97 Trekking on Mt
Kilimanjaro 175
Arusha 178
Tanzania 103 Around Arusha
Arusha National Park
186
188
Highlights 104 Trekking on Mt Meru 190
Climate & When to Go 104 Lake Manyara National
History 104 Park 191
The Culture 109 Tarangire National Park 192
Religion 110 Serengeti National Park 193
Arts 110 Ngorongoro
Conservation Area 197
Environment 112
LAKE VICTORIA 201
Food & Drink 114
Mwanza 202
DAR ES SALAAM 114
Around Mwanza 206
History 114 Rubondo Island
Orientation 115 National Park 206
Information 115 Bukoba 207
Dangers & Annoyances 118 Musoma 209
Sights & Activities 118 Bunda 210
Dar es Salaam for Children 120 Shinyanga 210
Sleeping 120 Singida 210
10 CONTENTS
WESTERN TANZANIA 211 Customs 251 Around Tsavo National
Tabora 211 Dangers & Annoyances 251 Park 307
Uvinza 214 Embassies & Voi 308
Kigoma 214 Consulates 252 THE COAST 309
Ujiji 216 Festivals & Events 253 History 309
Gombe Stream National Holidays 253 Mombasa 309
Park 216 Internet Resources 253 Shimba Hills National
Mahale Mountains Maps 253 Reserve 321
National Park 217 Money 253 Mwaluganje Elephant
Mpanda 218 Sanctuary 322
Photography & Video 254
Katavi National Park 218 Tiwi Beach 322
Post 254
Sumbawanga 219 Diani Beach & Ukunda 323
Telephone 254
Kasanga & Kalambo Shimoni & Wasini
Tourist Information 255 Island 326
Falls 219
Vaccination Certificates 255 Mombasa to Kilifi 327
THE SOUTHERN
HIGHLANDS 220 Visas 255 Kilifi 330
Dodoma 220 TRANSPORT IN Watamu 331
TANZANIA 255
Morogoro 223 Arabuko Sokoke Forest
Getting There & Away 255 Reserve 334
Mikumi National Park 225
Getting Around 261 Gede Ruins 334
Mikumi 225
Malindi & Around 336
266
Udzungwa Mountains
National Park 226
Iringa 227
Kenya Lamu 341
Shela 355
Around Iringa 229 Highlights 267
Islands Around Lamu 356
Climate & When to Go 267
Ruaha National Park 229 THE RIFT VALLEY 356
Iringa to Makambako 230 History 267
Longonot National Park 357
Mbeya 230 The Culture 271
Naivasha 357
Around Mbeya 232 Sport 273
Lake Naivasha 358
Tukuyu 233 Religion 273
Hell’s Gate National Park 360
Kitulo Plateau 233 Arts 273
Nakuru 361
Lake Nyasa 234 Environment 274
Around Nakuru 363
Njombe 235 Food & Drink 277
Lake Nakuru National
Songea 235 NAIROBI 278 Park 364
Tunduru 236 History 278 Lake Bogoria National
SOUTHEASTERN Orientation 278 Reserve 366
TANZANIA 236 Information 279 Lake Baringo 368
Selous Game Reserve 236 Dangers & Annoyances 284 CENTRAL HIGHLANDS 369
Mafia Island 240 Sights 284 Nyeri 370
Kilwa Kivinje 242 Festivals & Events 286 Aberdare National Park 373
Kilwa Masoko 242 Sleeping 286 Nyahururu &
Kilwa Kisiwani 243 Eating 288 Thomson’s Falls 375
Songo Mnara 244 Drinking 290 Mt Kenya National Park 376
Lindi 244 Entertainment 291 Naro Moru 382
Mtwara 245 Shopping 292 Nanyuki 383
Mikindani 247 Getting There & Away 292 Around Nanyuki 385
Msangamkuu Peninsula Getting Around 293 Meru 386
& Mnazi Bay–Ruvuma AROUND NAIROBI 294 Meru National Park 387
Estuary Marine Park 247 Chogoria 389
Nairobi’s Southern
Makonde Plateau & Outskirts 294 Embu 389
Around 248
Lake Magadi 299 Ol Donyo Sabuk National
TANZANIA DIRECTORY 248 Park 390
NAIROBI TO THE COAST 299
Accommodation 248 Thika 390
Amboseli National Park 300
Activities 249 WESTERN KENYA 391
Around Amboseli
Books 251 National Park 302 Narok 391
Business Hours 251 Chyulu Hills National Masai Mara National
Children 251 Park 303 Reserve 393
Courses 251 Tsavo National Park 303 Lake Victoria 396
CONTENTS 11
Kisumu 397 Women Travellers 447 Fort Portal 508
Around Lake Victoria 401 Work 447 Around Fort Portal 511
Western Highlands 402 TRANSPORT IN KENYA 447 Kasese 515
Kisii 402 Getting There & Away 447 Rwenzori Mountains
Kericho 403 Getting Around 451 National Park 516
Kakamega 405 Queen Elizabeth
457
National Park 520
Kakamega Forest Reserve 406
Eldoret 407 Uganda Bwindi Impenetrable
National Park 523
Lake Kamnarok & Kerio Highlights 458 Kabale 525
Valley National Reserves 410 Climate & When to Go 458 Around Kabale 528
Cherangani Hills 410 History 458 Kisoro 530
Kitale 411 The Culture 465 Lake Mutanda 531
Saiwa Swamp National Sport 466
Park 412 Mgahinga Gorilla
Religion 466 National Park 531
Mt Elgon National Park 413
Arts 466 Mbarara 533
NORTHERN KENYA 415
Environment 467 Lake Mburo National
Isiolo to Ethiopia 415 Park 535
Food & Drink 470
Samburu, Buffalo Masaka 535
Springs & Shaba National KAMPALA 470
Reserves 419 History 470 Around Masaka 536
Matthews Range 422 Orientation 472 Ssese Islands 537
Ndoto Mountains 422 Information 472 NORTHWESTERN
UGANDA 538
Marsabit 422 Dangers &
Annoyances 474 Masindi 539
Marsabit National Park 423
Sights & Activities 475 Hoima 540
Moyale 424
Kampala for Children 476 Murchison Falls National
Maralal to Turkana’s Park 541
Eastern Shore 424 Sleeping 476
Budongo Central Forest
Marich to Turkana’s Eating 479 Reserve 545
Western Shore 429 Drinking 482 Lake Albert 545
Lokichoggio 433 Entertainment 483 Gulu 546
KENYA DIRECTORY 433 Shopping 484 Arua 546
Accommodation 433 Getting There & Away 485 UGANDA DIRECTORY 546
Activities 435 Getting Around 486 Accommodation 547
Business Hours 438 AROUND KAMPALA 487 Activities 547
Children 438 Kabaka’s Trail 487 Books 549
Climate 438 Entebbe 487 Business Hours 550
Courses 438 Lake Victoria 489 Children 550
Customs 439 Mabira Forest Reserve 490 Dangers & Annoyances 550
Dangers & Annoyances 439 Mpanga Forest Discount Cards 551
Disabled Travellers 440 Reserve 490 Embassies &
Embassies & Consulates 440 The Equator 490 Consulates 551
Festivals & Events 441 EASTERN UGANDA 491 Holidays 551
Food 441 Jinja 491 Internet Access 551
Gay & Lesbian Around Jinja 498 Internet Resources 551
Travellers 441 Tororo 499 Maps 552
Holidays 442 Mbale 500 Money 552
Internet Access 442 Mt Elgon National Photography & Video 553
Legal Matters 442 Park 502
Post 553
Maps 442 Sipi Falls 504
Telephone 553
Money 443 Soroti 505
Tourist Information 553
Photography & Video 444 Moroto 506
Visas 553
Post 444 Moroto to Kidepo
Valley National Park 506 Volunteering 554
Telephone 445 TRANSPORT IN
Kidepo Valley
Time 445 National Park 507 UGANDA 554
Tourist Information 446 SOUTHWESTERN Getting There & Away 554
Visas 446 UGANDA 508 Getting Around 556
12 CONTENTS
Detour: Democratic RWANDA DIRECTORY 595 Dangers & Annoyances 613
Accommodation 595 Embassies & Consulates 613
Republic of the
Congo 559 Activities
Books
595
596
Holidays
Internet Access
614
614
History 560 Business Hours 596 Internet Resources 614
Information 560 Dangers & Annoyances 596 Maps 614
Goma 560 Embassies & Money 614
Parc National des Consulates 597 Post 614
Virungas 561 Holidays 597 Telephone 614
Nyiragongo Volcano 563 Internet Access 597 Visas 614
TRANSPORT 563 Internet Resources 597 TRANSPORT IN
Maps 597 BURUNDI 615
Rwanda 564 Money
Photography & Video
597
598
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
615
616
Highlights 565 Post 598
Climate & When to Go 565 Telephone 598
East Africa
617
History 565 Tourist Information 598
The Culture 569 Visas 598 Directory
Sport 571 Women Travellers 599 Accommodation 617
Religion 571 Work 599 Activities 618
Arts 571 TRANSPORT IN Business Hours 621
Environment 571 RWANDA 599 Children 621
Food & Drink 572 Getting There & Climate Charts 621
KIGALI 572 Away 599
Dangers & Annoyances 622
History 573 Getting Around 601
Disabled Travellers 623
Orientation 573
603
Discount Cards 624
Information 573
Activities 575
Burundi Embassies &
Consulates 624
Tours 575 Highlights 604 Gay & Lesbian
Kigali for Children 576 Climate & When to Go 604 Travellers 624
Sleeping 576 History 604 Holidays 624
Eating 578 The Culture 606 Insurance 625
Drinking 579 Arts 607 Internet Access 625
Entertainment 580 Environment 607 Legal Matters 625
Shopping 580 Food & Drink 607 Maps 625
Getting There & Away 580 BUJUMBURA 607 Money 625
Getting Around 581 Orientation 608 Photography & Video 627
AROUND KIGALI 581 Information 608 Senior Travellers 627
Nyamata & Ntarama Dangers & Annoyances 608 Solo Travellers 628
Genocide Memorials 581 Sights & Activities 608 Telephone 628
NORTHWESTERN Sleeping 609 Time 628
RWANDA 581 Toilets 628
Eating 610
Ruhengeri 581 Tourist Information 629
Drinking &
Parc National des Entertainment 611 Visas 629
Volcans 583
Shopping 611 Women Travellers 629
Gisenyi 586
Getting There & Away 612 Work 630
SOUTHWESTERN
RWANDA 589 Getting Around 612
Butare 589 AROUND BUJUMBURA 612
Transport in East
Gikongoro
Parc National Nyungwe
591 Beaches
La Pierre de Livingstone
612
Africa 631
Forest 591 et Stanley 612 GETTING THERE &
Cyangugu 592 Source du Nil 612 AWAY 631
Kibuye 593 Gitega 612 Air 631
EASTERN RWANDA 594 BURUNDI DIRECTORY 613 Lake 634
Parc National de Accommodation 613 Land 634
l’Akagera 594 Business Hours 613 Sea 635
© Lonely Planet Publications
C O N T E N T S 13
Tours
GETTING AROUND
635
636
Recommended
Vaccinations 641 Language 649
Air 636 Medical Checklist 641
Bicycle
Boat
636
636
Internet Resources
Further Reading
641
641 Glossary 655
Bus 637 IN TRANSIT 642
Car & Motorcycle
Hitching
637
638
Deep Vein
Thrombosis (DVT) 642 Behind the Scenes 657
Jet Lag & Motion
660
Local Transport 639 Sickness 642
Tours 639 IN EAST AFRICA 642 Index
Train 639 Availability & Cost of
670
Health Care 642
Health 640 Infectious Diseases
Travellers’ Diarrhoea
642
646
World Time Zones
BEFORE YOU GO
Insurance
640
640
Environmental Hazards
Traditional Medicine
647
648 Map Legend 672
Regional Map Contents
UGANDA
p459
KENYA
p268
RWANDA
p566
BURUNDI
p605
TANZANIA
pp106-7
© Lonely Planet Publications
16 www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • C o s t s & M o n e y 17
You can buy, download and
print individual chapters from
this guidebook.
Getting Started Get East Africa chapters CUTTING COSTS
Whatever your budget, the following are some tips if you’re trying to cut costs while travelling
in East Africa.
East Africa has a wide selection of hotels and restaurants in tourist areas Travel in the low season.
and major towns, plus some of Africa’s most elite safari lodges and luxury
Always ask about children’s discounts.
tented camps. If you’re on a midrange or top-end budget, travel here is
Africa made easy, with just enough adventure to keep things satisfying. Travel in a group (four is ideal) for organised treks and safaris.
If you’re travelling on a shoestring, things get more rugged. Expect to Keep your schedule flexible to take advantage of last minute deals.
stay in basic guesthouses, and to put in time bumping over rough roads Carry a tent, and camp whenever possible.
on crowded buses. The rewards: getting into the pulse of East Africa, and
seeing how most locals live. Focus on easily accessed parks and reserves to minimise transportation costs.
Whatever your style, there’s plenty to keep you busy – mountain Use public transport.
trekking, wildlife safaris, up-close encounters with our primate relatives, Eat local food.
moss-covered ruins, palm-fringed beaches and much more. Costs range
Stock up on food and drink in major towns to avoid expensive hotel fare and pricey shops in
from high, for people staying in upscale safari lodges (especially in Tan-
tourist areas and national parks.
zania, which is generally the most expensive destination in the region),
to modest, for those living local style. Offer to pay in cash – sometimes this may result in a discount if you ask.
If you don’t have time pressures it’s quite easy to set your itinerary
as you go, but, especially for safaris and treks, you’ll get better quality
and prices by doing some advance planning. When charting your route, passable, secondary roads are often closed, especially in parts of Uganda
remember that East Africa is large; it’s much better to concentrate on and Tanzania. You can expect to get drenched for at least a few hours
one or two areas, than to try and cover too much distance in one visit. each day, and it will be too muddy in many areas for hiking, but every-
Major destinations are connected by reasonably good air connections and thing will be beautifully green.
reliable (albeit often gruelling) bus routes, but you’ll need plenty of time Particularly in Kenya and Tanzania, watch out for peak-season hotel
to cover the often long distances. prices around the Christmas-New Year holidays, and during the July–
August high season.
WHEN TO GO
The main tourist seasons are the hotter, drier months of mid-December COSTS & MONEY
through January, and the cool, dry months from June to August, although Travel in East Africa is considerably more expensive than in Asia or India
See p622 for climate the region can be visited at any time of year. For more information on and you’ll need to work to stick to a shoestring budget. That said, it’s
charts climate in the region see p621, and check individual country chapters for quite possible to get by on limited funds, and in so doing you’ll be able
more detailed Climate and When to Go sections. to immerse yourself more fully into local life. At the other end of the
During the long rains (roughly March through May), things are much spectrum, East Africa has some of the most expensive lodges and hotels
quieter: there are few tourists, accommodation prices come down, and to be found anywhere, with all the corresponding comforts. Tanzania is
some places close completely. While main routes in most areas remain the most expensive country in the region for travel, followed by Rwanda,
Kenya and Uganda. Burundi’s delicate political situation gives it a special
status, and accommodation is generally expensive, thanks in part to the
DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT... large UN presence in the country.
You can buy almost anything you’ll need in Nairobi, Dar es Salaam and Kampala, except specialist At the budget level throughout the region, plan on spending from
trekking and sporting equipment, and certain toiletries such as contact lens solution. However, es- about US$20 to US$25 per day – that’s staying at budget guesthouses,
pecially outside of Nairobi, choice is limited and prices high. Some things to bring from home: eating mostly local food, travelling primarily with local transport and
binoculars for wildlife watching excluding safaris and other organised activities. For midrange hotels,
Western-style meals and more travel comfort, a realistic budget would
torch (flashlight)
start at around US$60 per day, excluding ‘extras’ such as park entrance
mosquito repellent and net (p644) fees, visa fees, the price of vehicle rentals or safaris, plus any airfares.
zoom lens for wildlife shots (p627) Top-end luxury lodge travel costs anywhere from US$150 to US$400 or
more per person per day, with prices at the upper end of this spectrum
light, rubber-soled shoes for beach walking
usually for all-inclusive safari packages.
sleeping bag and waterproof gear for trekking For more money issues, including how to access and carry it, see p625.
sturdy water bottle
READING UP
travel insurance (p625)
Books
wind- and waterproof jacket, especially for highland areas. Peter Matthiessen’s The Tree Where Man Was Born offers a timeless por-
trayal of life on the East African plains.
18 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • M u s t - S e e M o v i e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • R e s p o n s i b l e T r a v e l 19
The classic Out of Africa by Karen Blixen is one European’s nostalgic
perspective on life in colonial-era Kenya. For a more recent and realistic CONDUCT IN EAST AFRICA
take, look for David Bennun’s Tick Bite Fever. East Africa comfortably mixes a generally conservative outlook on life with a great deal of toler-
Green Hills of Africa by Ernest Hemingway and Death in the Long Grass ance and openness towards foreigners, and meeting locals is one of the highlights of regional
by Peter Hathaway Capstick chronicle the days of African big game hunting. travel. The following are a few tips to smooth the way.
Another title by Hemingway – The Snows of Kilimanjaro – deals with While most East Africans will probably be too polite to tell you so directly, they’ll be privately
some of the larger questions of life in an East African setting. shaking their head about travellers doing things like not wearing enough clothing or sporting
Among the many beautiful coffee table books that will whet your appetite tatty clothes. Especially along the Muslim coast, cover up the shoulders and legs, and avoid
for travels in the region are Africa Adorned by Angela Fisher and Africa’s plunging necklines, skin-tight fits and the like.
Great Rift Valley by Nigel Pavitt. Pleasantries count! Even if you’re just asking for directions, take time to greet the other per-
The Ukimwi Road: From Kenya to Zimbabwe by inimitable Dervla son. Handshake etiquette is also worth learning, and best picked up by observation. In many
Murphy is a sobering though highly readable chronicle of the author’s areas, East Africans often continue holding hands for several minutes after meeting, or even
bicycle journey through the ever-present reality of AIDS in East and throughout an entire conversation.
southern Africa.
Don’t eat or pass things with the left hand.
Websites Respect authority; losing your patience or undermining an official’s authority will get you no-
Afrol.com (www.afrol.com) African news and current affairs. where, while deference and a good-natured demeanour will see you through most situations.
ArtMatters (www.artmatters.info) Focuses on Kenyan arts, but also has excellent regional Avoid criticising the government of your host country, and avoid offending locals with public
cultural links. nudity, open anger and displays of affection (between people of the same or opposite sex).
East Africa Living Encyclopedia (www.africa.upenn.edu/NEH/neh.html) Part of the University When visiting a rural area, seek out the chief or local elders to announce your presence, and ask
of Pennsylvania’s African Studies Center, with country information and lots of links.
permission before setting up a tent or wandering through a village – it will rarely be refused.
Integrated Regional Information Network (www.irinnews.org) Regional news and
humanitarian issues. Receive gifts with both hands, or with the right hand while touching the left hand to your
Kamusi Project (www.yale.edu/swahili/) A ‘living’ online Swahili dictionary, plus East Africa links. right elbow. When giving a gift, don’t be surprised if the appreciation isn’t expressed verbally.
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Travel tips, the Thorn Tree bulletin board and helpful
links to other sites.
Pambazuka (www.pambazuka.org) Articles on regional and continent-wide social and humani- Showcasing magnificent footage of the cycle of life on the Serengeti
tarian issues. plains, Africa – The Serengeti (1994) features the annual wildebeest
migration.
MUST-SEE MOVIES Kilimanjaro: To the Roof of Africa (2002) is a gripping preview of what
East Africa’s stunning panoramas and turbulent human history have fea- is to come if you’re contemplating climbing the mountain (p175), and a
tured in many films. There are quite a few to look for before setting off. good armchair adventure if you’re not.
Hotel Rwanda (2004) is the real-life story of a Rwandan Hutu who The film version of Karen Blixen’s classic book (see p17), Out of Africa
sheltered hundreds of refugees in his four-star hotel during the outbreak (1985) is notable primarily for its evocative locational footage of Kenya.
of the Rwandan genocide; see p571 for more about this film. Another classic, Born Free (1966), is a family-friendly film, set in Kenya and
focused around hand-rearing a lion cub, that still forms many Westerners’
first ideas about East Africa.
FAVOURITE FESTIVALS & EVENTS Nowhere in Africa (2002) is the absorbing tale of a Jewish family who
The best festivals and events are often the unannounced ones, such as a small-town wedding, a flee Nazi Germany to settle in colonial-era Kenya and Keepers of Memory
rite of passage celebration, or local market day. Larger-scale happenings include the following. (2004) is a moving look at the Rwandan genocide through the eyes of
The Serengeti–Masai Mara wildebeest migration – one of Earth’s greatest natural spectacles survivors; see p567 for more on this subject.
(see p193). Maasai: The Rain Warriors (2005) is a somewhat contrived but intri-
guing look at a group of Maasai as they walk across Kenya to track down
Zanzibar International Film Festival – taking place in Zanzibar around July, and part of the
a legendary lion and thus break a drought.
Festival of the Dhow Countries, this is East Africa’s major cultural gathering (see p253).
Sauti za Busara Swahili Music Festival – a celebration of all things Swahili, held around Febru- RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL
ary in Zanzibar, and featuring artists from throughout East Africa (see p253). Tourism is big business in East Africa, especially in Tanzania and Kenya.
Maulid – marking the birthday of the Prophet Mohammed, best seen on Lamu in Kenya (see The following are a few guidelines for minimising strain on the local en-
p353). vironment. For tips on etiquette, see above, and for more on deforestation
Eid al-Fitr – the end of Ramadan fasting, and especially colourful on Zanzibar and elsewhere
and other environmental problems where tourist behaviour can have an
impact, see p80.
along the coast (see p624).
Support local enterprise.
Kenya Music Festival – Kenya’s longest-running music festival, held in Nairobi over 10 days in Buy souvenirs directly from those who make them.
August (see p286). Choose safari and trekking operators that treat local communities as
equal partners, and that are committed to protecting local ecosystems.
20 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • R e s p o n s i b l e T r a v e l www.lonelyplanet.com
For cultural attractions, try to pay fees directly to the locals involved,
rather than to tour company guides or other middlemen.
‘Always ask Always ask permission before photographing people.
permission Avoid indiscriminate gift giving; donations to recognised projects are
more sustainable and have a better chance of reaching those who need
before photo- them most.
graphing Don’t buy items made from ivory, skin, shells, etc.
people‘ Save natural resources, especially water and wood, and don’t take hot
showers if the water is heated by firewood. To wash yourself or your
clothing, fill a container with water and carry it elsewhere to avoid pol-
luting the source.
Respect local culture and customs.
Don’t litter! On treks, in parks or when camping, carry out all your litter,
and leave trails, parks and campsites cleaner than you found them.
A major danger in parks, especially in Kenya, is land degradation result-
ing from too many vehicles crisscrossing the countryside. Keep to the
tracks when on safari (or encourage your driver to do so).
21
Itineraries
CLASSIC ROUTES
BEACH & BUSH Two to Three Weeks
This classic beach and bush combination mixes wildlife watching par
excellence with postcard-perfect beaches and the allure of Swahili culture,
plus the chance for detours in between. You can squeeze in the essential
destinations in as little as a week (albeit very pressed), but two to three
weeks will allow you to explore at a more leisurely pace and to include some
detours. Fly into Nairobi (p278), from where you can head off for a safari in
either the Masai Mara National Reserve (p393) or Amboseli National Park (p300).
Alternatively, make your way overland from Nairobi to Arusha (p178) for a
safari in Serengeti National Park (p193) and Ngorongoro Crater (p199).
After getting a taste of the wildlife, head eastwards to the coast. In Kenya,
not-to-miss destinations include Lamu (p341) and the ruins at Gede (p334).
In Tanzania, the Zanzibar Archipelago (p128) is the highlight, and an ideal base
for diving, snorkelling and relaxing, plus taking in the charm and historical
attractions of Zanzibar’s old Stone Town (p133). When your time is up, fly out
of Dar es Salaam (p114), Nairobi or Zanzibar, whichever is most convenient.
With extra time in either Kenya or Tanzania, it’s possible to take in a few
more highlights en route between bush and beach, including hiking in Tan-
zania’s cool, green Usambara Mountains around Lushoto (p166), trekking on
Mt Kilimanjaro (p175) or – with a bit more detouring – visiting some of Ken-
ya’s Rift Valley lakes. Highlights here include Lake Nakuru (p364), Lake Bogoria
(p366), Lake Baringo (p368) and the starkly beautiful and otherworldly Lake
Turkana (p427), though you’ll need several extra days for this.
Wildlife and beaches
have long been East
Lake
Turkana Africa’s top draws.
This classic itinerary
Val
combines the best
Rif ey
KENYA
l
t
UGANDA of both, and can be
Lake Baringo
Lake Bogoria easily trimmed or
Lake Nakuru extended, depend-
Masai Mara NAIROBI
ing on the time at
National Rerserve
RWANDA Serengeti
hand. Distance cov-
Lamu
National Park
Mt Kilimanjaro Amboseli
National Park
ered by this route
(5896m)
Ngorongoro
BURUNDI Crater
Arusha
Gede is about 700km at a
Mombasa minimum, though
INDIAN
Lushoto Pemba O C EAN it could be consider-
TANZANIA Zanzibar
Archipelago ably lengthened to
Stone Town
Zanzibar take advantage of
Dar es Salaam
all that’s on offer.
Classic routes: Beach & Bush
22 I T I N E R A R I E S • • C l a s s i c R o u t e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d 23
EAST AFRICA OVERLAND Three Months
For those with a bit of wanderlust, plenty of time, a tolerance for rugged
travel and a desire to immerse themselves in local life, East Africa is an ideal
ROADS LESS TRAVELLED
destination for exploring on a classic overland route, either on a shoestring
budget, or more upscale. RWANDA & BURUNDI SAMPLER Two to Three Weeks
One possibility is to start off in Uganda, where – in addition to visit- Rwanda and Burundi, although war-scarred, are topographically mag-
ing as many national parks as you possibly can and going gorilla tracking nificent and culturally fascinating, and make rewarding destinations for
(p100) – you can spend time in laid-back Kampala (p470), on the relax- intrepid and savvy travellers. If you’re lucky enough to make it to these
ing Ssese Islands (p537) or white-water rafting the source of the Nile (p495) countries, a good first stop is Kigali (p572), with its lush, mountainous
close to Jinja (p491). Once you’ve had your fill, make your way via Bukoba setting, resurgent nightlife and peppy atmosphere. Next, head southwest
(p207) and Mwanza (p202) on Lake Victoria to view wildlife galore at via Butare (p589) to Parc National Nyungwe Forest (p591), with its abundance
Serengeti National Park (p193) and then on to Arusha (p178). From Arusha, of chimpanzees and other primates, and then via Cyangugu (p592) to the
head south towards Dodoma (p220) and then eastwards to Dar es Salaam scenic inland beaches on Lake Kivu around Kibuye (p593) and Gisenyi
(p114) and the beautiful Zanzibar Archipelago (p128). From here, turn north (p586). From here, it’s just a short hop on to Ruhengeri (p581) and the
to explore Mombasa (p309), with its fascinating Old Town, and the Kenyan mountain gorillas of Parc National des Volcans (p583), and then back to Kigali.
coast (p309) with Malindi and Gede. Alternatively (and security situation permitting) adventure over to Parc Na-
Once you’ve had enough of the sand and the sea, make your way inland tional des Virungas in Democratic Republic of the Congo (DR Congo; p561)
until your time runs out, enjoying highlights such as a trek on Africa’s for some gorilla tracking on the wild side. In Burundi, apart from Bujumbura
second-highest mountain, Mt Kenya (p376), and the beautiful Kakamega (p607) – which makes an agreeable enough introduction to the country –
Forest Reserve (p406), or detouring north for a Lake Turkana (p424) safari, the impressive Chutes de la Kagera (p612), near Rutana, are well worth a visit,
including stops at Maralal (p425), South Horr (p427), Loyangalani (p428) as is Gitega (p612), Burundi’s second-largest town. More rewarding desti-
and perhaps even Marsabit (p422). Depending where in Kenya fortune nations – only possible once the security situation stabilises – include Parc
finds you when you’ve finished your travels, you can continue either to National de la Rurubu (p607), with its beautiful views, Parc National de la Rusizi
Kampala or Nairobi (p278) for a flight home. This itinerary can also be (p607) near Bujumbura and Parc National de la Kibira (p607), with patches
started in Nairobi, or done in reverse from Kampala – both alternatives of rainforest. With time remaining, head from Burundi into Tanzania, or
are good options for those wanting more time in Kenya. from Rwanda into Uganda, both of which have plenty to keep you busy.
Whether you’re a Parc
Long off the trod-
National
Gap-year traveller des Virungas den trail, the lush,
or a mid-life ad- DEMOCRATIC UGANDA mountainous pan-
Lake REPUBLIC OF
Turkana THE CONGO
venturer, following UGANDA Loyangalani
Parc
oramas and vibrant
Marsabit
this classic overland South Horr National des
Volcans cultures of these
route is one of the KENYA
Victoria Maralal Ruhengeri two East African
Nile Jinja
best ways to get into KAMPALA Mt Kenya
Gisenyi gems will captivate
Kakamega Lake
East Africa’s pulse. Forest
(5199m)
Kivu RWANDA KIGALI anyone who ven-
Ssese Reserve
Islands
You can make things Bukoba NAIROBI tures their way.
Kibuye
as rough or luxurious RWANDA
LAKE
VICTORIA
Although it covers
as you wish. The Mwanza Serengeti barely 400km, allow
National Park Arusha Cyangugu
Malindi
main requirement BURUNDI Gede Butare
as much time as pos-
for covering this ap- Mombasa Parc National Parc National
Nyungwe Forest sible for this journey
INDIAN de la Kibira
proximately 3500km OCEAN Parc National into the heart of
TANZANIA de la Kibira
Zanzibar
loop is time. Archipelago Parc National Parc National Africa.
Zanzibar de la Rurubu
DODOMA de la Rusizi
BURUNDI
Dar es Salaam BUJUMBURA
Gitega
Chutes de la
Kagera
Classic routes: East Africa Overland Roads Less Travelled: Rwanda & Burundi sampler
24 I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o re d T r i p s 25
Tailored Trips: Swahili Special
CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE One Month
If East Africa is your dreamed-of trip of a lifetime, and if the budget
isn’t too tight, here’s an itinerary that will surely please the most dis-
TAILORED TRIPS
cerning traveller. Fly first into Nairobi (p278), and after a night in a
comfortable hotel acclimatising, head off on safari to Masai Mara National SWAHILI SPECIAL
Reserve (p393), where one magnificent morning can be spent floating East Africa’s Swahili heritage fuses influences past and present, African
over the savanna, with your own bird’s eye view of the giraffes from and Arabian, Indian, Asian and European, and delving in brings you on
a hot air balloon (p393). Then head north to the central Rift Valley lakes a fascinating journey through the continents and the centuries. The nar-
(p356) – Baringo, Bogoria and Nakuru – where you can pamper your- row streets of Lamu (p341) are an ideal place to start, followed by jaunts
self around Lake Naivasha National Park (p360) or stretch your legs in to Paté and nearby islands (p356). Mombasa (p309) with its fascinating old
Hell’s Gate National Park (p360). From here, journey westwards to Uganda town; the mystery-shrouded ruins at Gede (p334); and the equally intri-
to take in some of the parks before visiting the mountain gorillas in guing Mnarani ruins (p331) at Kilifi are other essential stops. Zanzibar (p130)
Bwindi Impenetrable National Park (p523) or, better still, across the border and Pemba (p151) are worth as much time as you can spare, although to
in Rwanda’s Parc National des Volcans (p583). From here, make your way immerse yourself in things Swahili, you’ll need to get away from the re-
to Arusha (p178) in Tanzania, either overland via Lake Victoria or an sorts and into the villages. Across the Zanzibar
easy flight from Kigali (p572). After catching your breath at one of the Channel is Dar es Salaam (p114), where modern-
upscale lodges nearby, head off to explore some of Tanzania’s national day urbanity is only a thin veneer over long
parks – Arusha (p188) and (in the dry season) Tarangire National Parks Swahili roots. From here, it’s an easy detour to
(p192) are both excellent choices if you don’t have time for the Serengeti Bagamoyo (p158) or Pangani (p161), both once
(p193). Other possibilities include a few days relaxing on the shores of major coastal ports. Alternatively, continue
Lake Eyasi (p201), or a couple of nights spent in one of the cosy high- south to the ruins at Kilwa Kisiwani (p243) – Paté Island
Lamu
land lodges around Karatu (p199). To finish things up, head to the coast. silent witnesses to the days when this part of the Gede
Mnarani Ruins
In addition to the obvious destination – the Zanzibar Archipelago (p128) – coast was the centre of far-flung trading net- Mombasa
Tabora
consider spending time at the laid-back Saadani Game Reserve (p160), or works. Further south are pretty, palm-fringed Ujiji Pangani Pemba
Bagamoyo Zanzibar
relaxing either on the beaches around Ushongo (p162) or at one of the Lindi (p244) and tiny Mikindani (p247), a charm- Dar es Salaam
wonderful lodges overlooking Mafia Island’s Chole Bay (p241). ing Swahili village. Time remaining? Follow old
trade caravan routes inland to Tabora (p211), Kilwa Kisiwani
Lindi
Travelling in East Af- and to Ujiji (p216), with its Swahili-style houses Mikindani
rica doesn’t have to and flourishing tradition of dhow building.
be rough. With purse WORLD HERITAGE SITES
Rift
strings that aren’t UGANDA For an unforgettable sampling of East Africa’s wildlife, culture and history,
Val
too tight, a generous plan a trip focused on Unesco World Heritage sites. In Tanzania, move
KENYA
ley
allotment of time from the snowy heights of Mt Kilimanjaro (p175) to the plains of the Seren-
Lake Baringo geti (p193) and the varied expanses of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area (p197),
and discerning taste, Lake Bogoria
Bwindi
before heading into the wilds of Selous Game Reserve (p236) and on to the
you can explore the Impenetrable LAKE Hell's Gate
Lake Nakuru
coast. Here, the ruins at Kilwa Kisiwani (p244) and Songo Mnara (p244) carry
National Park V I C T O R I A National Park
region while indulg- Parc Masai Mara NAIROBI you back into the centuries, while the winding, cobbled alleyways of Zan-
ing yourself in a National des KIGALI National Reserve zibar’s Stone Town (p133) draw you deeper into history with every turn.
Volcans
series of classic safari RWANDA Serengeti Ngorongoro Arusha
In Kenya, divide your time between fascinating Lamu Old Town (p341),
National Park Crater National Park with its well-preserved Swahili lifestyle and
camps and luxurious BURUNDI
Karatu
Arusha time-warp atmosphere; the glacier-clad sum-
Lake INDIAN Sibiloi NP
coastal lodges, many Eyasi
Tarangire OCEAN mit and forested slopes of Mt Kenya National Park Central Island NP
National Park
of which are destina- Pemba (p376); and the remote Lake Turkana national South Island NP
Rwenzori Kampala
tions in themselves. Saadani Ushongo Zanzibar
Archipelago
parks in the far north – consisting of South Island Mountains
Game Reserve Mt Kenya NP
Zanzibar National Park (p428) and Central Island National NP
The full circuit is Bwindi
TANZANIA
Dar es Salaam Park (p433), and Sibiloi National Park (p429), with Impenetrable Serengeti NP Lamu
about 2500km. Mafia its wealth of ancient archaeological finds. NP Ngorongoro CA
Mt Kilimanjaro
Island
Chole Uganda rounds out East Africa’s Unesco
Bay
trio with the rugged, snow-dusted heights Zanzibar
of Rwenzori Mountains National Park (p516); the
misty Bwindi Impenetrable National Park (p523); Selous GR Kilwa Kisiwani
and the mystery-shrouded Kasubi tombs (p475) Songo Mnara
in Kampala, which are at the spiritual heart of
traditional Uganda.
Roads Less Travelled: Connoisseur’s Choice Tailored Trips: World Heritage Sites
26 I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o re d T r i p s www.lonelyplanet.com
Tailored Trips: For Fitness Fanatics
FOR FITNESS FANATICS
Want to stay fit while travelling? For the ultimate challenge, trek to the
top of Africa in Mt Kilimanjaro National Park (p175), make the rigorous
climb up to Mt Kenya’s (p376) snowy peak, or watch the mists roll back
from the summit of Mt Stanley in Uganda’s Rwenzori Mountains National
Park (p516) – or try combining all three. Tanzania’s Mt Meru (p190) and
the rugged expanses of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area (p197) offer off-
beat but highly satisfying alternatives. Less dramatic but equally enjoy-
able is the easy, rolling terrain around Lushoto (p166), where the cool
climate, winding paths and picturesque villages will keep you walking
for days. In Kenya’s Cherangani Hills (p410), you can travel overnight from
alpine meadows to searing desert, while Aber-
dare National Park (p373) in the Kenyan Central
Highlands treats you to panorama after pan-
Mt Elgon
Cherangani
orama of unspoiled mountain wilderness. If
Fort Portal NP
Rwenzori
Hills
Mt Kenya NP
you still have energy, head for Uganda’s Mt
Mountains
NP
Victoria
Nile Aberdare NP
Elgon National Park (p503), with trekking that
Mt is just as rewarding as in the Rwenzoris but
Ngorongoro CA
Mt Meru
Kilimanjaro
NP
at only a fraction of the price; or to the pic-
Malindi
Lake Manyara
NP Watamu
turesque crater lakes (p512) near Fort Portal,
Lushoto Zanzibar with village-to-village walking. Finish up with
Archipelago
white-water rafting at the source of the Nile
(p495) near Jinja; diving around the Zanzibar
Archipelago (p128), Malindi (p336) or Watamu
(p331); or cycling or microlight flying near
Tanzania’s Lake Manyara National Park (p191).
WILD WANDERINGS
East Africa boasts one of the world’s best collections of national parks
and reserves. For a few weeks wandering on the wild side, start with the
magnificent Serengeti–Masai Mara (p193 and p393) ecosystem, famed for
the annual wildebeest migration. Nearby are Tanzania’s wildlife-packed
Ngorongoro Crater (p199) and Tarangire National Park (p192), with its baobabs
and elephants. Ruaha National Park (p229) provides the chance for a serene
wilderness experience, while Katavi National Park (p218) is one of Africa’s
last great frontier areas. For communing with the chimps, make your
way to Mahale Mountains (p217) or world-renowned Gombe Stream (p216)
National Parks. In Kenya, don’t miss the lush Kakamega Forest (p406),
with its plethora of birds; Amboseli National
Park (p300) with elephants, giraffes and more
Murchison wandering around against the backdrop of Mt
Falls NP
Kibale Budongo
Kilimanjaro; Lake Nakuru National Park (p364),
Forest NP Central FR
Queen
Kakamega FR
Lake Nakuru NP
with birds, rhinos and hippos; and the vast
Elizabeth NP Masai Mara Tsavo National Park (p303), with its sweeping
NR
Parc National
des Volcans Serengeti Tsavo NP plains and the ‘Big Five’. Rwanda’s highlight
Gombe
NP
Ngorongoro
Amboseli NP is Parc National des Volcans (p583) with its goril-
Stream NP Crater Tarangire NP las, while often-overlooked Uganda’s offerings
Mahale
Katavi NP
include Kibale Forest National Park (p511) with its
Mountains
NP chimps; the Nile’s thundering falls at Murchison
Ruaha
Falls National Park (p541); Queen Elizabeth National
NP Park (p520), with antelopes, buffaloes and hip-
pos; and Budongo Central Forest Reserve (p545)
with its chimps and dense forest.
Tailored Trips: Wild Wanderings
27
Snapshot
East Africa defies all attempts at neat classification. On the one hand, the
region seems to be striding towards a better future. Peace is solidifying
in Rwanda and slowly taking root in Burundi – helped along by a
US$290 million per year United Nations (UN) presence. Tanzania is
enjoying an economic upswing, thanks in part to shrewd fiscal policies,
and in part to a positively booming tourism industry. Kenya – long a
regional powerhouse – has announced its intent to bid to host the 2016
Olympics, and has been a major contributor in international attempts
to stabilise neighbouring Somalia. Uganda’s President Yoweri Museveni
has spearheaded one of the continent’s highest profile AIDS campaigns,
and the country’s once-soaring HIV/AIDS infection rate has dropped
significantly in recent years. After years of stalling and delays, Kenya,
Tanzania and Uganda have joined hands in a customs union – paving the ‘... the
way for a full revival of the long-defunct East African Community. East
Africa’s music and woodcarvings are being exported around the world, its region’s
films regularly gain critical acclaim, and the vibrancy of the region’s tribal tribal
traditions – together with its unparalleled network of national parks – traditions –
unfailingly impress visitors from all corners of the globe.
Yet, there’s another, more sombre side of the picture. Kenya, which together
held one of its most peaceful political transitions on record in 2002, is with its
now overshadowed by a massive government corruption scandal. Kenya unparalleled
has also fallen 20 places on the UN Human Development Index (HDI)
over the past three years, and all five of the countries covered in this book network
are ranked in the bottom third globally on the HDI. Northern Uganda of national
continues to host what the UN Undersecretary General for Humani- parks –
tarian Affairs & Emergency Relief recently referred to as the ‘biggest
neglected humanitarian emergency in the world’, with thousands of chil- unfailingly
dren being kidnapped and brutalised by the Lord’s Resistance Army. In impress
Rwanda, although more than a decade has passed since the outbreak of visitors from
the genocide, deep scars remain, while across the border in neighbouring
Burundi, many wounds are still open. Malaria – a scourge throughout all corners of
sub-Saharan Africa – continues to claim the lives of East Africans daily, the globe’
while HIV/AIDS ravages the younger generation, and has left over two
million children orphans.
So, what is the bottom line? For most East Africans there is no clear
answer, with life, politics and culture revolving around a fusion of all these
realities. Things are looking up for the most part, while at the same time,
daily life is often a struggle. The rough and tumble of urban streets – with
overflowing matatus (minibuses) careening past fruit vendors, sidewalk
hawkers and modern highrises – contrasts sharply – or does it? – with
the serenity of a night on the East African plains under a velvet-black sky,
or the primeval majesty of one of the Rift Valley lakes at dawn. If there’s
any thread uniting all the apparent contradictions and tying together the
region’s diverse peoples and cultures, it’s the conviction that the path
forward must be according to East Africa’s ways, with East Africans set-
ting the beat and with East Africans calling the final shots.
www.lonelyplanet.com THE AUTHORS
The Authors
MARY FITZPATRICK Coordinating Author, Tanzania NICK RAY Burundi, Rwanda, Uganda &
Originally from Washington, DC, Mary set off after graduate studies for sev- Detour: Democratic Republic of the Congo
eral years in Europe. Her fascination with languages and cultures soon led A Londoner of sorts, Nick comes from Watford, the sort of town that makes
her further south to sub-Saharan Africa, where she has spent much of the you want to travel. Nick has travelled through many countries in Africa over
past decade living and working, including extended periods in Tanzania. the years – including the southern stunner that is Mozambique, and Morocco
She has authored and coauthored numerous guidebooks on East Africa and with all its northern mystique – but it is Uganda and Rwanda that he finds
elsewhere on the continent, speaks Swahili and is convinced she holds an to be small but perfectly formed. He relished the chance to return for an-
unofficial record for kilometres travelled in buses along East Africa’s roads. other round of towering volcanoes, plentiful primates and blessed beers
Mary works as a full-time travel writer from her home base in Cairo, from from Kampala to Kigali. He also managed some hit and runs on Burundi
where she continues to journey frequently to the land of Kilimanjaro. and DR Congo, fascinating countries emerging from their tortured pasts.
Nick currently lives in Phnom Penh, Cambodia and has worked on more
Life on the Road than 20 titles for Lonely Planet.
When on assignment in East Africa, life tends to revolve around transport. Travelling from Lindi to Mt-
wara one afternoon, all the buses had left for the day. After finding a pick-up truck and willing driver, Life on the Road
we set off, rattling past the sunbaked palm- and baobab-studded landscapes so typical of this part of Hitting the DR Congo for a couple of days was one hell of a trip. I barely scraped the surface, as you
the continent. About 30km before Mtwara, the petrol tank ran dry. The driver, seeking to maximise his could easily fit 100 or more Rwandas into this vast heart of Africa, but I what I saw gave me cause for
profit from our arrangement, hadn’t wanted to splurge on an extra litre. A man pedalled past on his hope. The gorillas, the jungle, the volcanoes, the people and their music – the rest of the world doesn’t
bicycle, and I was soon perched behind him, moving slowly closer to Mtwara. About 10km onwards – realise what it has been missing. The beaches in Burundi are blissful and I had a fine afternoon watch-
and happily for all concerned – I managed to find a lift, sent someone to bring petrol to the still-stranded ing locals try their luck on surfboards. Rwanda is hauntingly beautiful and easy to explore, but most
driver and another day’s travel in East Africa came to an end. people associate it with death and suffering. Memories of the genocide are everywhere, but none more
poignant or better expressed than the Kigali Memorial Centre. And Uganda, what a place! The best of
Africa packed into one little country. Track gorillas and chimps, chill out in Bunyoni, up the adrenaline
TOM PARKINSON Kenya in Jinja and join the Kampala nightshift for one of the best rumbles outside the jungle.
Tom’s association with East Africa began with a trip to Tanzania in his stu-
dent days, and he has returned regularly as an author, handling two succes-
sive editions of Kenya. For his latest adventure he swapped the safari interior
for the somewhat different delights of Nairobi and the coast, and also took CONTRIBUTING AUTHOR
time out to work on the Zanzibar International Film Festival, mixing literary
debates and cultural appreciation with some hefty beach parties. Having Dr Caroline Evans wrote the Health chapter. Caroline studied medicine at the University of London, and
worked extensively in North and Central Africa for Lonely Planet, Tom is completed General Practice training in Cambridge. She is the medical adviser to Nomad Travel Clinic,
no stranger to the myriad rhythms of African life, but finds Kenya keeps a private travel health clinic in London, and is also a GP specialising in travel medicine. She has been
giving him reasons to come back. an expedition doctor for Raleigh International and Coral Cay expeditions.
Life on the Road
Thanks to the openness of its people and the diversity of its landscapes, Kenya has a habit of throwing
up surprising experiences – at some point in my various trips here I’ve been stranded in the desert
near Lake Turkana, gone tuxedo shopping at local markets, run away from elephants in bamboo for-
ests, chatted with Swahili ex-professional footballers on quiet islands, dodged potholes and punctures
on 10,000km of roads and danced the night away with Lamu’s civil servants. Of all the things that
made an impression, though, the one I’ll never forget is seeing the moon rise bright orange over Mt
Kenya as the glaciers cracked and groaned 50ft away: awesome, unearthly, and even with an altitude
headache, a memory to treasure. LONELY PLANET AUTHORS
Why is our travel information the best in the world? It’s simple: our authors are independent,
dedicated travellers. They don’t research using just the Internet or phone, and they don’t take
freebies in exchange for positive coverage. They travel widely, to all the popular spots and off
the beaten track. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, cafés, bars, galleries,
palaces, museums and more – and they take pride in getting all the details right, and telling it
how it is. For more, see the authors section on www.lonelyplanet.com.
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com
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© Lonely Planet Publications
28 www.lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • M o n s o o n W i n d s 29
History
Today the population diversity resulting from these migrations is one
of the most fascinating aspects of travel in East Africa.
MONSOON WINDS
CRADLE OF HUMANITY As these migrations were taking place in the interior, coastal areas were
East Africa, with its valleys, plains and highlands, has one of the longest being shaped by far different influences. Azania, as the East African ‘....Two days’ sail beyond,
documented human histories of any region in the world. Ancient hominid coast was known to the ancient Greeks, was an important trading post there lies the very last
(humanlike) skulls and footprints, some over three million years old, as early as 400 BC, and had probably been inhabited even before then by market-town of the
have been found at various sites, including at Olduvai Gorge in Tanzania small groups of Cushitic peoples, and by Bantu-speakers. The Periplus continent of Azania,
and Lake Turkana in Kenya. Although similarly ancient traces have also of the Erythraean Sea, a navigator’s guide written in the 1st century AD, which is called Rhapta...
been found elsewhere on the continent, the East African section of the mentions a place called Raphta as the southernmost trading port of the in which there is ivory
Rift Valley is popularly considered the ‘cradle of humanity’. region. Although Raphta’s location remains a mystery, it is believed to in great quantity, and
By about one million years ago, these early ancestors had come to have been somewhere along the Kenyan or Tanzanian coast, possibly on tortoise-shell....’ (Periplus
resemble modern humans, and had spread well beyond East Africa, as the mainland opposite Manda or Paté Islands (north of Lamu), or further of the Erythraean Sea)
See www.pbs.org/wgbh far as Europe and Asia. Roughly 100,000 years ago, possibly earlier, homo south near the Pangani or Rufiji estuaries.
/evolution/humans sapiens – or modern man – arrived on the scene. Trade seems to have grown steadily throughout the early part of the
/humankind/d.html for The earliest evidence of modern-day East Africans dates to about 10,000 first millennium. Permanent settlements were established as traders, first
an overview of human years ago, when much of the region was home to Khoisan-speaking from the Mediterranean and later from Arabia and Persia, came ashore
evolution in East Africa. hunter-gatherer communities. On the western fringes of East Africa, on the winds of the monsoon and began to intermix with the indigenous Chinese porcelain
including parts of the area that is now Rwanda and Burundi, there were peoples, gradually giving rise to Swahili language and culture. The traders fragments have been
also small populations of various so-called Pygmy groups. from Arabia also brought Islam, which by the 11th century had become discovered at Gede and
entrenched. elsewhere along the East
THE RELATIVES ARRIVE Between the 13th and 15th centuries, these coastal settlements flour- African coast –
Beginning between 3000 and 5000 years ago, a series of migrations began ished. Ports including Shanga (on Paté Island), Gede, Lamu and Mom- testaments to old trade
that were to indelibly shape the face of East Africa. Cushitic- and Nilotic- basa (all in present-day Kenya) and those on the Zanzibar Archipelago routes between Africa
speaking peoples from the north and Bantu-speakers from the west con- and at Kilwa Kisiwani (both in Tanzania) traded in ivory, gold and other and the Orient.
verged on the Khoisan and other peoples already in the area, eventually goods with places as far away as India and China.
creating the rich tribal mosaic that is East Africa today.
The first to arrive were Cushitic-speaking farmers and cattle herders who THE FIRST EUROPEANS
made their way to the region from present-day Ethiopia, and settled both The first European to reach East Africa was the intrepid Portuguese
Africa – A Biography of inland and along the coast. They moved mostly in small family groups, and explorer Vasco da Gama, who arrived in 1498, en route to the Orient.
the Continent by John brought with them traditions that are still practiced by their descendents, Within three decades, the Portuguese had disrupted the old trading
Reader takes you on including the Iraqw around Tanzania’s Lake Manyara, and the Gabbra and networks and subdued the entire coast, building forts at various places,
a sweeping journey Rendille in northern Kenya. including Kilwa and Mombasa. Portuguese control lasted until the early
through Africa from The next major influx began around 1000 BC, when Bantu-speaking 18th century, when they were displaced by Arabs from Oman.
its earliest days, and peoples from West Africa’s Niger Delta area began moving eastwards, ar-
includes some fascinating riving in East Africa around the 1st century BC. Thanks to their advanced
text on East Africa. agricultural skills, and knowledge of ironwork and steel production, these SWAHILI
Bantu-speakers were able to absorb many of the Cushitic- and Khoisan- The word ‘Swahili’ (‘of the coast’, from the Arabic word sāhil) refers both to the Swahili language,
speakers who were already in the region, as well as the Pygmy populations as well as to the Islamic culture of the various people inhabiting the East African coast from
around the Great Lakes. Soon they became East Africa’s most populous Mogadishu (Somalia) in the north down to Mozambique in the south. Both language and culture
ethno-linguistic family – a status which they continue to hold today. are a rich mixture of Bantu, Arabic, Persian and Asian influences.
A final wave of migration began somewhat later, when smaller groups Although Swahili culture began to develop in the early part of the 1st millennium AD, it was
of Nilotic peoples began to arrive in East Africa from what is now south- not until the 18th century, with the ascendancy of the Omani Arabs on Zanzibar, that it came into
ern Sudan. This influx continued through to the 18th century, but the its own. Swahili’s role as a lingua franca was solidified as it spread throughout East and Central
main movements took place in the 15th and 16th centuries. Most of these Africa along the great trade caravan routes. European missionaries and explorers soon adopted
Nilotic peoples – whose descendants include the present-day Maasai and the language as their main means of communicating with locals. In the second half of the 19th
Turkana – were pastoralists, and many settled in the less fertile areas of century, missionaries, notably the German Johan Ludwig Krapf, also began applying the Roman
southern Kenya and northern Tanzania where their large herds would alphabet. Prior to this, Swahili had been written exclusively in Arabic script.
have sufficient grazing space.
TIMELINE c 3.5 million years ago c 100 BC c 750 AD 1498
Hominid (humanlike) creatures wander around the East Bantu-speakers arrive in the region Islam reaches the East African coast; Swahili civilisation begins Vasco da Gama arrives in East Africa
African plains to prosper
30 H I S T O R Y • • C o l o n i a l C o n t r o l www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • I n d e p e n d e n c e 31
As the Omani Arabs solidified their foothold, they began to turn their protectorate over the Zanzibar Archipelago. Most of what is now mainland
sights westwards, developing powerful trade routes that stretched inland Tanzania, as well as Rwanda and Burundi, came under German control,
Portuguese influence is as far as Lake Tanganyika and Central Africa. Commerce grew at such and was known as German East Africa (later Tanganyika), while the British For an intriguing glimpse
still seen in architecture, a pace that in the 1840s, the Sultan of Oman moved his capital from took Kenya and Uganda. at life in precolonial
customs and language Muscat to Zanzibar. The 19th century was also the era of European explorers, including Kenya, look for a copy of
of the area – the The slave trade also grew rapidly during this period, driven in part by Gustav Fischer (a German whose party was virtually annihilated by the Khadambi Asalache’s A
Swahili gereza (jail), demand from European plantation holders on the Indian Ocean islands Maasai at Hell’s Gate on Lake Naivasha in 1882), Joseph Thomson (a Calabash of Life.
from Portuguese igreja of Réunion and Mauritius. Soon slave traders, including the notorious Scot who reached Lake Victoria via the Rift Valley lakes and the Aberdare
(church), dates to the Tippu Tip, had established stations at Tabora (Tanzania) and other inland Ranges in 1883) and Count Teleki von Szek (an Austrian who explored
days when Portuguese towns. By the mid-19th century, the Zanzibar Archipelago had become the Lake Turkana region and Mt Kenya in 1887). Anglican bishop James
forts contained both in the largest slave entrepôt along the East African coast, with nearly 50,000 Hannington set out in 1885 to establish a diocese in Uganda, but was killed
the same compound. slaves – abducted from as far away as Lake Tanganyika – passing through when he reached the Nile. Other explorers included Burton and Speke,
Zanzibar’s market each year. who were sent to Lake Tanganyika in 1858 by the Royal Geographical
Society, and the famous Henry Morton Stanley and David Livingstone.
COLONIAL CONTROL By the turn of the 20th century, Europeans had firmly established a The Lunatic Express by
Tales of both the horrors of the slave trade and of the attractions of East presence in East Africa. Both the British and German colonial adminis- Charles Miller is a very
Africa soon made their way back to Europe, and Western interests were trations were busy building railways and roads to open their colonies to readable recounting of
piqued. In 1890 Germany and Great Britain signed an agreement defining commerce, establishing hospitals and schools, and encouraging the influx the expansion of East
‘spheres of influence’ for themselves, which formally established a British of Christian missionaries. Kenya’s fertile and climatically favourable high- Africa’s rail network
lands proved suitable for European farmers to colonise. In Tanganyika, by and other colonial
contrast, large areas were unable to support agriculture and were plagued interventions.
THE SLAVE TRADE by the tsetse fly, which made cattle grazing and dairy farming impossible.
Slavery has been practised in Africa throughout recorded history, but its greatest expansion in
East Africa came with the rise of Islam, which prohibits the enslavement of Muslims. Demands of INDEPENDENCE
European plantation holders on the islands of Réunion and Mauritius were another major catalyst, As the European presence in Africa solidified, discontent with colonial rule
particularly during the second half of the 18th century. grew and nationalist demands for independence became insistent. In the
At the outset slaves were taken from coastal regions and shipped to Arabia, Persia and the 1950s and early 1960s, the various nationalist movements coalesced and
Indian Ocean islands. Kilwa Kisiwani, off the southern Tanzanian coast, was one of the major export gained strength across East Africa, culminating in the granting of inde-
gateways. As demand increased, traders made their way further inland, so that during the 18th pendence to Tanzania (1961), Uganda, Rwanda and Burundi (all in 1962),
and 19th centuries slaves were being brought from as far away as Malawi and the Congo. By and Kenya (1963). Independence and postindependence trajectories var-
the 19th century, with the rise of the Omani Arabs, Zanzibar had eclipsed Kilwa Kisiwani as East ied from country to country. In Kenya, the path leading to independence
Africa’s major slave-trading depot. According to some estimates, by the 1860s between 10,000 was violent and protracted; in Tanzania and Uganda the immediate pre-
and as many as 50,000 slaves were passing through Zanzibar’s market each year. Overall, close independence years were relatively peaceful, while in Rwanda and Bu-
to 600,000 slaves were sold through Zanzibar between 1830 and 1873, when a treaty with Britain rundi, long-existing tribal rivalries were a major impediment.
paved the way for the trade’s ultimate halt in the region by the early 20th century. In Kenya, the European influx increased rapidly during the first half Zamani – A Survey of East
As well as the human horrors, the slave trade caused major social upheavals on the mainland. of the 20th century, so that by the 1950s there were about 80,000 settlers African History, edited
In the sparsely populated south of present-day Tanzania it fanned up interclan warfare in the in the country. Much of the land expropriated for their farms came from by renowned Kenyan
politically decentralised area, as ruthless entrepreneurs raided neighbouring tribes for slaves. the homelands of the Kikuyu people. The Kikuyu responded by forming historian BA Ogot with
In other places, the slave trade promoted increased social stratification and altered settlement an opposition political association in 1920, and they instigated the Mau JA Kieran, is one of the
patterns. Some tribes, for example, began to build fortified settlements encircled by trenches, Mau rebellion in the 1950s, something which marked a major turning best introductions to the
while others concentrated their populations in towns as self-defence. Another fundamental so- point in Kenyan politics. region’s precolonial and
cietal change was the gradual shift in the nature of chieftaincy, from being religiously based to In Tanganyika, the unpopular German administration continued until colonial history from an
becoming a position resting on military power or wealth – both among the ‘gains’ of trade in the end of WWI, when the League of Nations mandated the area to African perspective.
slaves and commodities. the British, and Rwanda and Burundi to the Belgians. British rule was
The slave trade also served as an impetus for European missionary activity in East Africa, promp- equally unpopular, however, with the Brits neglecting development of
ting the establishment of the first Christian stations and missionaries’ penetration of the interior. Tanganyika in favour of the more lucrative and fertile options available
One of the most tireless campaigners against the horrors of slavery was the Scottish missionary- in Kenya and Uganda. Political consciousness soon began to coalesce in
explorer David Livingstone (1813–74), whose efforts, combined with the attention attracted by his the form of farmers’ unions and cooperatives, through which popular
funeral, were the decisive factors mobilising British initiatives to end human trafficking. demands were expressed. By the mid-20th century, there were over 400
such cooperatives, which soon joined to form the Tanganyika Africa
1850–1870 1890 1961-1963 1984
Zanzibar’s slave market becomes the largest along the East African Britain and Germany establish footholds in East Africa The countries of East Africa gain independence Kenya reports its first AIDS case
coast
32 H I S T O R Y • • I n t o t h e Fu t u re www.lonelyplanet.com
Association (TAA), a lobbying group for the nationalist cause based in
Dar es Salaam.
In Uganda, the British tended to favour the recruitment of the power-
ful Buganda people for the civil service. Members of other tribes, unable
to acquire responsible jobs in the colonial administration or to make
inroads into the Buganda-dominated commercial sector, were forced to
seek other ways of joining the mainstream. The Acholi and Lango, for
Shake Hands With the example, chose the army and became the tribal majority in the military.
Devil by Roméo Dallaire As resentment grew, the seeds were planted for the intertribal conflicts
is a searing account of that were to tear Uganda apart following independence.
the Rwandan genocide In Rwanda and Burundi, the period of colonial rule was characterised
by the head of the UN by the increasing power and privilege of the Tutsi. The Belgian admin-
peacekeeping mission to istrators found it convenient to rule indirectly through Tutsi chiefs and
Rwanda. their princes, and the Tutsi had a monopoly on the missionary-run
educational system. As a result long-existing tensions between the Tutsi
and Hutu were exacerbated, igniting the spark that was later to explode
in the 1994 Rwanda genocide.
For more about the independence movements, and the history of each
country since independence, see the country chapters.
INTO THE FUTURE
Take a stroll through East Africa today, and you’ll see all these threads
of history come to life: from Olduvai Gorge, with its fascinating fossil
Browse www.nationmedia finds, to the winding lanes and ornate lintels of old Swahili settlements
.com/eastafrican/current such as Lamu and Zanzibar’s Stone Town, to bustling coastal dhow ports,
/index.htm to keep up Portuguese-era garrisons and the more recent colonial architecture lining
with what’s happening in Dar es Salaam’s waterfront. Interspersed with all this is East Africa’s more
East Africa today. modern face – glitzy high-rise office blocks, elegant luxury lodges, crass
Western-style resorts – and tying it all together are the rich tribal heritages
that are the region’s lifeblood.
The next decades are going to involve a continual reconciling of all these
threads – traditional and modern, foreign and local. Yet, in many ways,
East Africa has never been better positioned to do this. Peace has gained
a foothold in the previous trouble spots of Rwanda and Uganda, and is
slowly progressing in Burundi. Tourism is more than holding its own as
a burgeoning regional industry, while the local cultural scene continues
to be as vibrant as ever. Whatever the future holds, it’s likely that East
Africa’s move into the next chapter of its history won’t be fast, but it will
certainly be fascinating.
1994 2002
Rwandan genocide unleashed Peaceful and fair elections in Kenya
33
The Culture
DAILY LIFE
Despite East Africa’s size and diversity, daily life follows remarkably simi-
lar patterns throughout much of the region. In general, rural rhythms set
the beat: life is centred around tending small farm plots, and money –
especially for paying school fees or building a house – is a constant
concern. Women always work, either outside the home or tending to
the family and garden, and many students don’t have the opportunity
to finish secondary school. Throughout the region tourism provides
employment opportunities, though good positions are for the lucky few, I Laugh So I Won’t Cry:
and both unemployment and underemployment are rife. At the other Kenya’s Women Tell
end of the spectrum are the small cadres of wealthy in Nairobi and other the Stories of Their
capital cities who drive fancy 4WDs, live in Western-style houses in Lives, edited by Helena
posh residential areas and send their children to university in London or Halperin, offers a
elsewhere. Most East Africans fall somewhere in between these scenarios, fascinating glimpse into
although far more are closer to the former than the latter. the lives of East African
Throughout East Africa, family life is central, with weddings, funer- women. Also look for
als and other events holding centre stage, and celebrations being grand Three Swahili Women: Life
affairs – often aimed at demonstrating status. Histories from Mombasa,
Family ties are strong, and it is expected that those who have jobs will Kenya by Sarah Mirza and
share what they have with the extended family. The extended family also Margaret Strobel.
forms an essential support network in the absence of government social
security systems. Given that average per capita income in the region
ranges between about US$150 in Burundi and US$400 in Kenya (com-
pared with about US$24,000 in the UK), the system works remarkably
well, with surprisingly few destitute people on the streets in most areas.
Invisible social hierarchies lend life a sense of order, with men ruling
the roost in the working world and, at least symbolically, in the family
as well. Although women arguably form the backbone of the economy
AIDS IN EAST AFRICA
Together with malaria, AIDS is now the leading cause of death in sub-Saharan Africa, and East
Africa is no exception. In Uganda alone, there are almost one million AIDS orphans under
15 years of age – one of the highest figures in the world – and an estimated 53,000 children
14 years old or younger living with HIV/AIDS. The figures elsewhere in the region are just as
sobering. Kenya has close to 550,000 AIDS orphans, and an estimated 78,000 children living with
HIV/AIDS. Women are particularly hard hit. In Burundi, for example, where an estimated 20%
of urban dwellers and 6% of rural dwellers are HIV positive, infection rates in girls aged 15 to
19 years old are four times greater than those for similarly aged boys.
On the positive side, East African governments now discuss the situation openly, and you’ll
notice AIDS-related billboards in Dar es Salaam, Nairobi and elsewhere in the region. Ugandan
president Yoweri Museveni is often cited for his outspokenness and leadership in combating
the scourge, and thanks to vigorous public awareness campaigns and other government ef-
forts Uganda’s AIDS rates have dropped over the past decade. Yet, at the grass-roots level in
many areas of the region, the stigma remains. AIDS-related deaths are often kept quiet, with
‘tuberculosis’ used euphemistically as a socially acceptable catch-all diagnosis. Also, many of the
AIDS clinics and counselling centres that exist still operate anonymously; if a sign were hung
out, many victims wouldn’t enter for fear of recognition. In one study in Kenya, over half of the
women surveyed who had acquired HIV hadn’t told their partners because they feared being
beaten or abandoned.
34 T H E C U LT U R E • • E c o n o m y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • G o v e r n m e n t & P o l i t i c s 35
throughout the region – with most juggling child-rearing plus work on expectancy and education standards. And annual per capita income levels
the family farm or in an office – they are frequently marginalised when are just a fraction of what they are in most western countries.
In coastal areas, watch it comes to education and politics. Exceptions include Kenya, which These figures are tempered by the extensive informal economy that The very readable African
for henna painting – is notable for its abundance of nongovernmental organisations, many exists throughout the region, as well as by wide variations between rural Voices, African Lives:
intricate designs on the headed by women, and Uganda, where women play prominent roles in and urban areas. There are also significant income disparities; for example Personal Narratives from a
hands and feet made educational and literary circles. Kenya, one of the world’s poorest countries, also registers one of the largest Swahili Village by Patricia
with a paste from leaves With the exception of Tanzania, where local chieftaincies were abolished gaps between rich and poor. Caplan takes an inside
of the henna plant, and following independence, tribal identity and tribal structures are generally In human terms the statistics mean that daily life is a struggle for most look at local culture and
traditionally applied only strong – sometimes with disastrous consequences, as seen in the Rwandan East Africans. Life expectancy averages around 45 years for the region as customs on Tanzania’s
to brides and married genocide. Otherwise, clashes between traditional and modern lifestyles are a whole, and at birth an average East African has between a 30% and 50% Mafia Island.
women. generally fairly low profile, with outside indications often limited to noth- statistical probability of not surviving to the age of 40. Reliable banking
ing more than the occasional disparaging remark about the neighbours. services and savings accounts remain inaccessible for most people, espe-
The spectre of AIDS looms on the horizon throughout East Africa (see cially rural dwellers, and it’s a common scenario for those few students
p33). While there has been some high profile public awareness campaigns, who make it through secondary school to be faced with only meagre job
East African societies in general are conservative, and away from urban prospects upon graduation.
centres real discussion remains limited. While all this can be rather discouraging, it’s worth keeping in mind that
East Africa is not a historically cohesive area where sweeping generalities
ECONOMY can easily be made, whether the topic be economic development or politics. The Worlds of a Maasai
Take a look at East Africa’s economy, and you’ll find a mixed picture. It’s only relatively recently that the region has been packaged into the neatly Warrior: An Autobiography
On the one hand, inflation is at low to moderate levels, economies are bordered national entities that we take for granted today, and just 200 years by Tepilit Ole Saitoti
growing and tourism – despite several hard blows in recent years – is a ago the main forces were relatively small, community-based tribal group- presents an intriguing
major and increasingly important money earner. Yet all of the five coun- ings. This means that, as a traveller, the most encouraging aspects of the perspective on the juxta-
tries covered in this book are ranked in the bottom third of the global East African economic picture that you’re likely to see are those at the village position of traditional and
United Nations’ Human Development Index, which measures the over- or community level – a sustainable microlending scheme, for example, or a modern in East Africa.
all achievements of a country according to factors such as income, life profitable women’s cooperative. While successes at this level are no excuse
for neglecting the bigger picture, they at least help to put some of the sta-
tistics into a more balanced perspective, and serve as proof that the efforts
FEMALE GENITAL MUTILATION of one or several individuals can make a difference.
Female genital mutilation (FGM) – often euphemistically referred to as ‘female circumcision’ –
is the partial or total removal of the female external genitalia. In Kenya, an estimated 50% of GOVERNMENT & POLITICS
women – most in the northeast, near Somalia – have undergone FGM. In Tanzania, the figures East Africa has made headlines in recent years, during the Kenyan elections
are estimated at between 10% and 18%, while in Uganda, it’s about 5%. (for more see p270) and with the slow but steady steps towards the reac-
FGM is usually carried out for reasons of cultural or gender identity, and is entrenched in tribal tivation of a modified version of the old East African Community (EAC)
life in some areas. Long-standing traditional beliefs about hygiene, aesthetics and health also play customs union. Until 1977 Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania were members
a role in the continuance of FGM. Yet among the very real risks of the procedure are infection, of the EAC, an economic union which linked the currencies of the three Former Kenyan president
shock and haemorrhage, as well as lifelong complications and pain with menstruation, urination, countries and provided for freedom of movement and shared telecommu- Jomo Kenyatta once
intercourse and childbirth. For women who have had infibulation – in which all or part of the nications and postal facilities. In 1996, following the EAC’s break-up and a argued that FGM was
external genitalia are removed, and the vaginal opening then narrowed and stitched together – decade of regional disputes, the presidents of Tanzania, Kenya and Uganda such an integral part of
unassisted childbirth is impossible, and many women and children die as a consequence. established the Tripartite Commission for East African Cooperation, which initiation rites and Kikuyu
Since the mid-1990s there have been major efforts to reduce the incidence of the practice, laid the groundwork for re-establishing the old economic and customs union identity that its abolition
and while concrete successes have been limited, the very fact that FGM can now be openly in 2000. It is this new East African Community which today serves as the would destroy the tribal
discussed is a major step forward. main intragovernmental organisation in the region. A common passport was system.
In Kenya, government hospitals have been instructed by the Ministry of Health to stop the prac- adopted in 1997, and in early 2005 a customs union came into effect with
tice, and several nongovernmental women’s organisations have taken a leading role in bringing the ultimate goal of duty-free trade between the three countries. Next on the
FGM to the forefront of media discussion. There is also a growing movement towards alternative rites agenda is a common currency, and a loose political federation, although a
that offer the chance to maintain traditions while minimising the health complications, such as realisation of these is probably still well in the future.
ntanira na mugambo or ‘circumcision through words’.
In Uganda, FGM has been declared illegal and condemned by the government. While the MULTICULTURALISM
practice continues in the northeast, support is waning and local community leaders have declared Almost since the dawn of humankind, outsiders have been arriving in East
that they want to eradicate it completely within the next decade. Africa to be assimilated into its seething, simmering and endlessly fascinat-
In Tanzania, although the overall prevalence of FGM is significantly lower than in neighbouring ing cultural melting pot. From the Bantu-, Nilotic- and Cushitic-speaking
Kenya, progress in reducing its incidence has been slower. In 1998 FGM was declared illegal for groups that made their way to the region during the early migrations (see
girls under 18 years old, but there have been few if any prosecutions, and mass ‘circumcisions’ p28), to Arab and Asian traders and colonial-era Europeans, a long stream
continue in some areas. of migrants have left their footprints here. Today the region’s modern face
reflects this rich fusion of influences, with over 300 tribal groups, plus small
36 T H E C U LT U R E • • S p o r t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • R e l i g i o n 37
but economically significant numbers of Asians, Arabs and Europeans –
most well-integrated linguistically – all rubbing shoulders. BAO
Coastal East Africa’s rich While national identities have become entrenched over the past half- It’s not exactly sport, but bao (also known as kombe, mweso and by various other names) is one
cultural melting pot is century of independence, tribal loyalties also remain strong in many areas. of East Africa’s favourite pastimes. It’s played throughout the region, and is especially popular on
surveyed on www.pbs The highest profile conflicts resulting from intertribal clashes have been the Zanzibar Archipelago and elsewhere along the coast, where you’ll see men in their kanzus
.org/wonders/fr_e2.htm. in Rwanda – where in 1994 long-standing tensions exploded into brutal (white robe-like outer garment worn by men) and kofia (a cap, usually of embroidered white linen,
genocidal violence, the effects of which have scarred the nation – and in worn by men) huddled around a board watching two opponents play. The rules vary somewhat
Burundi, where intertribal conflicts culminated in a long civil war that still from place to place, but the game always involves trying to capture the pebbles or seeds of your
casts shadows over the country. opponent, which are set out on a board with rows of small hollows. Anything can substitute for
At the other end of the spectrum is Tanzania, which has earned itself a board, from finely carved wood to a flattened area of sand on the beach, and playing well is
a name for its remarkably harmonious society, and its success in forging something of a patiently acquired art form. For more on the intricacies of bao see the comprehensive
tolerance and unity out of diversity. www.gamecabinet.com/rules/Bao.html or www.driedger.ca/mankala/Man-1.html.
There are dozens of While intrareligious frictions do exist (primarily between Christians
beautiful photojournal and Muslims) they are at a generally low level, and not a major factor in
books documenting East contemporary East African politics. The East African Safari Rally is another attention-getter. This rugged
Africa’s diverse cultures, 3000-km rally – which has been held annually since 1953 – passes along
including Turkana: SPORT public roadways through Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania, and attracts an
Kenya’s Nomads of the Football (soccer) dominates sporting headlines throughout the region and international collection of drivers with their vintage (pre-1971) auto-
Jade Sea by Nigel Pavitt, throughout the year, and matches always draw large and enthusiastic mobiles. See www.eastafricansafari
and African Warriors by crowds. Kenya’s team, the Harambee Stars, regularly participate in pan- Also likely to get increasing regional press coverage in the near future rally.com for the latest
Thomasin Magor. African competitions and World Cup qualifiers, and there are also occa- is Kenya’s recent surprise announcement of its intention to bid for the news about the region’s
sional appearances by Uganda’s Kobs and Rwanda’s Amavubi (Wasps). 2016 Olympic Games. most famous road race.
More low-key than football at home, but surpassing it on the inter-
national sports stage, is running, where Kenya dominates in long-distance RELIGION
competitions throughout the world. Africans in general are profoundly spiritual in their outlook on life, and
East Africans are no exception. The major religions are Christianity and
Islam, with Islam especially prevalent in coastal areas. A sizable number of
THE GENDER GAP people also observe traditional religions, and there are small communities
The good news on the East African educational scene is that at primary school level, the ‘gender of Hindus, Sikhs and Jains.
gap’ (the difference between the percentage of boys versus the percentage of girls enrolled in
school) is gradually lessening, and in some cases has been completely eliminated. In Tanzania Christianity
and Kenya, for example, initial primary school enrolment is roughly evenly divided between boys The first Christian missionaries reached East Africa in the mid-19th
and girls. In Uganda, which has the highest level of overall primary school enrolment in the century. Since then the region has been the site of extensive missionary
region, the gender gap is about 9%, in favour of boys, but less than it was a decade ago. How- activity, and today most of the major denominations are represented,
ever, the rest of the picture is less rosy. In Tanzania, only 5% of girls obtain a secondary level including Lutherans, Catholics, Seventh-Day Adventists and Baptists. In
education, while in Uganda and Kenya the figures are 9% and 22% respectively. many areas, mission stations have been the major, and in some cases the
Comparatively low initial enrolment numbers and high drop-out rates among girls at the only, channels for development assistance. This is particularly so with
secondary level are due in part to cultural attitudes, with traditional preferences for sons di- health care and education, with missions still sometimes providing the We Wish to Inform You
minishing the value of girls’ education. Early marriage and early pregnancies are another factor. only schools and medical facilities in remote areas. That Tomorrow We Will be
In Uganda – which has the dubious distinction of having the highest rate of adolescent preg- In addition to the main denominations, there is also an increasing Killed With Our Families:
nancy in sub-Saharan Africa – 43% of girls are either pregnant or have given birth by age 17, number of home-grown African sects, especially in Kenya. Factors that Stories from Rwanda by
and 70% by age 19. HIV/AIDS is also a major contributor. As the number of AIDS orphans in are often cited for the growth of such local Christian sects include cul- Philip Gourevitch is a
the region rises, girls are required to stay home to take care of ill family members or younger tural resurgence, an ongoing struggle against neocolonialism, and the compelling account of the
siblings. Among East Africa’s nomadic and pastoralist communities, such as those in parts of alienation felt by many job-seekers who migrate to urban centres far from Rwandan genocide and
northeastern Kenya, the demands of a migratory lifestyle often cause families to remove girls their homes. its aftermath, as told by
from school. Sexual harassment both in and out of school also leads to nonattendance and Church services throughout East Africa are invariably beautifully vi- survivors.
drop out. brant and colourful. Even if you can’t understand the language, you’ll
Several countries in the region have signed on to a continentwide African Girls’ Education certainly be captivated by the unaccompanied choral singing, which only
Initiative, although there has been little measurable progress thus far. A few countries, including Africans can do with such beauty and precision.
Kenya, have also adopted re-entry policies for school-aged girls who give birth, although these
remain largely ineffectual. There are a handful of private girls’ schools around the region which Islam
have registered some impressive gains, and steady progress is also being made at the grass-roots Islam was founded in the early 7th century by the Prophet Mohammed.
level in increasing awareness of the value of education for all children, including girls. However, By the time of his death, the new religion had begun to spread throughout
especially in rural areas, attitudes are slow to change and there’s still a long way to go. the Arabian peninsula, from where it was then carried in all directions
over the subsequent centuries, including along the East African coast.
38 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 39
The five pillars of Islam that guide Muslims in their daily lives include Tanzania. M’hando is also known for his film Mama Tumaini (Women
the following: of Hope).
Haj (pilgrimage) It is the duty of every Muslim, who is fit and can afford it, to make the pilgrimage Rwandan Eric Kabera is known worldwide for his Keepers of Memory,
to Mecca at least once. 100 Days (produced together with Nick Hughes) and Through My Eyes –
Sala (prayer, sometimes written salat) This is the obligation of prayer, done five times daily when all documenting the Rwandan genocide and its aftermath, and also ZIFF
muezzins call the faithful to pray, facing Mecca and ideally in a mosque. award-winners.
Sawm (fasting) Ramadan commemorates the revelation of the Qur’an to Mohammed, and is the Another notable East African cinematographer is Tanzanian Flora
month when Muslims fast from dawn to dusk. M’mbugu-Schelling, who won acclaim for These Hands, a short but pow-
Shahada (the profession of faith) ‘There is no God but Allah, and Mohammed is his Prophet’ is the erful documentary focusing on the life of Mozambican women refugees
fundamental tenet of Islam. working crushing rocks in a quarry near Dar es Salaam.
Zakat (alms) Giving to the poor is an essential part of Islamic social teaching. For more on films from the region, see the country chapters.
Most East African Muslims are Sunnis, with a small minority of Shiites, Literature
primarily among the Asian community. The most influential of the vari- East Africa’s first known Swahili manuscript is an epic poem dating from
ous Shiite sects represented are the Ismailis, followers of the Aga Khan. 1728 and written in Arabic script. However, it wasn’t until the second half Swahili prose got a
of the 20th century – once Swahili had become established as a regional relatively late start, but
Traditional medicine Traditional Religions language – that Swahili prose began to develop. One of the best known Swahili oral poetry trad-
in East Africa is closely East Africa’s traditional religions are animist, centring on ancestor wor- authors from this period is Tanzanian Shaaban Robert (see p110). itions have long roots.
intertwined with ship, the land and various ritual objects. Most acknowledge the existence In more recent years there has been a flowering of English-language See www.humnet.ucla
traditional religion, with of a supreme deity with whom communication is possible through the titles by East African writers, including Weep Not, Child and Detained: A .edu/humnet/aflang
practitioners using divin- intercession of ancestors. Ancestors thus play a strong role in many areas, Prison Writer’s Diary, both by Kenyan Ngugi wa Thiong’o; Song of Lawino /swahili/SwahiliPoetry
ing implements, prayers, with their principal function to protect the tribe or family. Some groups by Ugandan Okot p’Bitek; and Abyssinian Chronicles by Ugandan Moses /index.htm for an
chanting and dance to also recognise lesser gods in addition to the supreme deity, while among Isegawa. See the country chapters for more on these and other authors. excellent overview and
facilitate communication the Maasai and several other tribes, there is no tradition of ancestor wor- There is also a rich but often overlooked body of English-language litera- anthology.
with the spirit world. ship; the supreme deity is the sole focus of devotion. ture by East African women, particularly in Uganda, where female writers
have organised as Femrite, the Ugandan Women Writers’ Association.
ARTS Some names to watch for include Mary Karooro Okurut, whose A Wom-
Architecture an’s Voice: An Anthology of Short Stories by Ugandan Women provides a
East Africa is an architectural treasure-trove, with its colonial-era build- good overview, and the internationally recognised Kenyan writer Grace
ings and religious architecture, including both churches and mosques. Ogot, known in particular for The Promised Land.
The real highlights, however, are the old town areas of Zanzibar, Lamu
(both Unesco World Heritage sites) and Mombasa, all of which display Music & Dance
mesmerising combinations of Indian, Arabic, European and African char- The single greatest influence on the modern East African music scene has
acteristics in their buildings and street layouts. been the Congolese bands that began playing in Dar es Salaam and Nai-
In Lamu, Paté and elsewhere along the coast you’ll see examples of robi in the early 1960s, and which brought the styles of rumba and soukous
Swahili architecture. At the simplest level, Swahili dwellings are plain rec- (Congolese dance music) into the East African context. Among the best
tangular mud and thatch constructions, set in clusters and divided by small, known is the Orchestre Super Matimila, which was propelled to fame by
sandy paths. More elaborate stone houses are traditionally constructed of the renowned Congolese-born and Dar es Salaam-based Remmy Ongala
coral and wood along a north–south axis, with flat roofs and a small open (‘Dr Remmy’). Many of his songs (most are in Swahili) are commentaries
courtyard in the centre, which serves as the main source of light. on contemporary themes such as AIDS, poverty and hunger, and Ongala
The various quarters or neighbourhoods in Swahili towns are symbol- has been a major force in popularising music from the region beyond
ically united by a central mosque, usually referred to as the msikiti wa Africa’s borders. Another of the Congolese bands is Samba Mapangala’s
Ijumaa or ‘Friday mosque’. In a sharp break with Islamic architectural Orchestra Virunga. Mapangala, a Congolese vocalist, first gained a foot-
custom elsewhere, traditional Swahili mosques don’t have minarets; the ing in Uganda in the mid-1970s with a group known as Les Kinois before
muezzin gives the call to prayer from inside the mosque, generally with moving to Nairobi and forming Orchestra Virunga.
the help of a loudspeaker. As Swahili lyrics replaced the original vocals, a distinct East African For an overview of the
rumba style was born. Its proponents include Simba Wanyika (together East African music scene
The ZIFF website Cinema with offshoot Les Wanyika), which had its roots in Tanzania, but gained check out http://
(www.ziff.org) is the best East Africa’s long-languishing, and traditionally underfunded, film indus- fame in the nightclubs of Nairobi. members.aol.com
jumping-off point into try received a major boost with the opening of the Zanzibar International In the 1970s Kenyan benga music rose to prominence on the regional /dpaterson/eamusic.htm.
the world of East African Film Festival (ZIFF, p253), which has been held annually on Zanzibar music scene. It originated among the Luo of western Kenya and is char-
cinema. since 1998, and is now one of the region’s premier cultural events. The acterised by its clear electric guitar licks and bounding bass rhythms. Its
festival serves as a venue for artists from the Indian Ocean basin and ethnic roots were maintained, however, with the guitar taking the place of
beyond, and has had several local prize-winners, including Maangamizi – the traditional nyatiti (folk lyre), and the bass guitar replacing the drum,
The Ancient One, co-directed by Tanzanian Martin M’hando and shot in which originally was played by the nyatiti player with a toe ring. One of
40 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • F o o d & D r i n k 41
the best-known proponents of benga has been DO Misiani, whose group FOOD & DRINK
Shirati Jazz has been popular since the 1960s. Imagine dining under the stars with your feet in the sand, sitting down in
On Zanzibar and along the coast, the music scene has long been the shade of palm trees to a plate of freshly grilled fish, or relishing five-star
dominated by taarab (Zanzibari music combining African, Arabic and cuisine at one of East Africa’s luxurious safari camps. While it’s not all like
Indian influences), which has experienced a major resurgence in recent this – it would be easy to come away from East Africa thinking that the
A good starting point years, and which gets airplay in other parts of the region as well (for region subsists almost entirely on rice or ugali (thick, porridgelike maize-
for learning more about more, see p142). or cassava-based staple) and sauce – there are some surprising treats to be
taarab music is the Dhow Throughout East Africa, dance plays a vital role in community life, found. In general, the best cuisine is found along the coast, where savoury
Countries Music Academy although masked dance is not as common in most parts of the region as it seafood dishes cooked with coconut milk, coriander and other spices are
(www.zanzibarmusic.org). is in West Africa. A wide variety of drums and rhythms are used, depend- the speciality. Elsewhere, meals centre around a staple with beans or sauce,
ing on the occasion, with many dances serving as expressions of thanks with the best part of the dining experience the surrounding ambience and
and praise, or as a means of communicating with the ancestors or telling friendly local company, rather than the food itself.
a story. East Africa’s most famous dance group is the globally acclaimed
Les Tambourinaires du Burundi. Staples & Specialities
Throughout the region, you’ll find East Africans sitting down to piping
Textiles & Handicrafts hot plates of ugali. While beloved by many locals, it’s somewhat of an
The brightly coloured lengths of printed cotton cloth seen throughout the acquired taste for most foreigners. Rice – best on the coast, where it is
region – typically with Swahili sayings printed along the edge – are known frequently flavoured with coconut milk – and matoke (cooked plantains)
as kanga in Kenya, Tanzania and parts of Uganda. Many of the sayings are are other common staples, while chips, potatoes and chapati are ubiquitous
social commentary or messages – often indirectly worded, or containing in larger towns. According to local belief,
Kanga sayings range from puns and double meanings – that are communicated by the woman wear- Most visitors have more of an affinity for nyama choma (seasoned, lurking inside many
amorous outpourings to ing the kanga, generally to other women. Others are simply a local form roasted meat), sambusas (deep-fried pastry triangles stuffed with spiced carvings are the spirits
pointed humour. For a of advertising, such as those bearing the logo of political parties. mince meat – be sure they haven’t been sitting around too long) and they represent, thus
sampling of what’s being In coastal areas, you’ll see the kikoi, which is made of a thicker textured maandazi (semisweet doughnutlike products). Chipsi mayai is another giving them supernatural
said around you, see cotton, usually featuring striped or plaid patterns, and traditionally worn local favourite – basically a puffy omelette with chips mixed in. On almost powers.
www.glcom.com/hassan by men. Also common are beautiful batik-print cottons depicting every- every street corner you’ll find vendors selling corncobs roasted on a wire
/kanga.html. day scenes, animal motifs or geometrical patterns. grill over a bed of hot coals. Another popular street-corner snack is deep-
Basketry and woven items – all of which have highly functional roles in fried yam, eaten hot with a squeeze of lemon juice and a sprinkling of
local society – have also become popular as tourist souvenirs, particularly chilli powder. Along the coast, the offerings are rounded out by an abun-
in Nairobi. dance of delectable seafood dishes, often grilled, or cooked in coconut
Jewellery, especially beaded jewellery, is another local art form, notably milk or in a curry style.
among the Maasai and Turkana. It is used in ceremonies as well as in Three meals a day is the norm, with the main meal eaten at midday,
everyday life, and often indicates the wearer’s wealth and marital status. and breakfast frequently nothing more than coffee or tea and bread. In
out-of-the-way areas, many places are closed in the evening and the only
Visual Arts option may be street food.
PAINTING
In comparison with woodcarving, painting has a fairly low profile in East Drinks
Africa. One of the most popular styles is Tanzania’s Tingatinga painting Sodas (soft drinks) – especially Coca Cola and Fanta – are found almost
(for more, see p111). everywhere, even where bottled water isn’t. Fresh juices, including pine-
apple, sugar cane and orange are widely available and a treat, although
SCULPTURE & WOODCARVING check first to see whether they have been mixed with unsafe water. An-
East Africa is renowned for its exceptional figurative art, especially that of other delicious variant is the milkshake – fresh juice, chilled milk and
Tanzania’s Makonde, who are acclaimed throughout the region for their syrup. Most refreshing of all, though, and never a worry hygienically, is
African Art by Frank skill at bringing blocks of hard African blackwood (Dalbergia melan- the juice of the dafu (young coconut), which you’ll find along the coast. Although cash is
Willet surveys the entire oxylon or, in Swahili, mpingo) to life in often highly fanciful depictions. Western-style supermarkets sell imported fruit juices. becoming an increasingly
continent, and is a good Among the most common carvings are those with ujamaa motifs, and Although East Africa exports high-quality coffee and tea, what you’ll common replacement,
introduction if you’re those known as shetani, which embody images from the spirit world. usually find locally is far inferior, with instant coffee the norm. Both tea cattle are still a coveted
interested in East African Ujamaa carvings are designed as a totem pole or ‘tree of life’ and contain and coffee are generally drunk with lots of milk and sugar. bride price in many parts
sculpture and wood- interlaced human and animal figures around a common ancestor. Each East Africa has several local beers, and a good selection of imports. of East Africa.
carving. generation is connected to those that preceded it, and gives support Among the most common are Kenya’s Tusker Lager and South Africa’s
to those that follow. Tree of life carvings often reach several metres in Castle Lager, which is also produced locally. Especially in Kenya, many
height, and are almost always made from a single piece of wood. Shetani locals prefer their beer warm, so getting a cold beer can be a task.
carvings are much more abstract, even grotesque, with the emphasis Kenya and Tanzania have small and very fledgling wine industries,
on challenging viewers to new interpretations while giving the carver’s although it is doubtful either will be putting wine importers out of busi-
imagination free reign. ness anytime soon.
42 T H E C U LT U R E • • F o o d & D r i n k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • F o o d & D r i n k 43
Locally produced home-brews – commonly fermented mixtures made from major towns will be keeping some variety and balance in your diet,
with bananas or millet and sugar – are widely available. However, avoid and getting enough protein, especially if you don’t eat eggs or seafood. In
anything distilled – in addition to being illegal, it’s also often lethal. larger towns, Indian restaurants are the best places to try for vegetarian
meals. Elsewhere, try asking Indian shop owners if they have any sug-
Where to Eat & Drink gestions; many will also be able to help you find good yogurt. Peanuts
For dining local style, nothing beats taking a seat in a small local eatery – (karanga in Swahili-speaking areas) are widely sold on the streets, and
known as hoteli in Swahili-speaking areas – and watching life pass by. Many fresh fruits and vegetables are abundant throughout most of the region.
hoteli will have the day’s menu – rarely costing more than US$1 – written on If you eat seafood, you’ll have no problems along the coast or near any
a chalkboard, and often a TV in the corner broadcasting the latest football of the lakes, and even in inland areas good fish is often available from
match. Rivalling hoteli for local atmosphere are the bustling night markets rivers and streams. Most tour operators are willing to cater to special
that you’ll find in some areas, where vendors set up grills along the roadside dietary requests – such as vegetarian, kosher or halal – as long as they
and sell nyama choma and other street food. have advance notice.
For something more formal, or for Western-style meals, stick to cities or
main towns, where you’ll find a reasonable array of restaurants, most mod- Eating With Kids
erately priced compared with their European equivalents. There’s at least East Africans are generally quite family-friendly, and dining out with chil-
one Chinese restaurant (often somewhat East-Africanised) in every capital. dren is no problem. Hotel restaurants in tourist areas often have highchairs,
Especially in coastal areas, there’s usually also a good selection of Indian and staff do their best to be sure that everyone stays happy. While special
cuisine, found both at inexpensive eateries serving up good Indian snacks, children’s meals aren’t common, it’s easy enough to find menu items
and in pricier restaurants. Most main towns have at least one supermarket that are suitable for young diners. The main things to avoid are curries
selling imported products such as canned meat, fish and cheese. and other spicy dishes, uncooked or unpeeled fruits and vegetables, meat
from street vendors (as it’s sometimes undercooked) and unpurified water.
Vegetarians & Vegans Child-size boxes of fresh juice are sold at supermarkets in major towns and
While there isn’t much in East Africa that is specifically billed as ‘vegetar- make good snacks, as do fresh fruits (tangerines, bananas and more), which
ian’, there are many veggie options, and you can find wali (cooked rice) are widely available. For more on travelling with children, see p621.
and maharagwe (beans) almost everywhere. The main challenges away
Habits & Customs
Meals connected with any sort of social occasion are usually drawn out
DINING EAST AFRICAN STYLE affairs for which the women of the household will have spent several days
If you’re lucky enough to be invited to share a meal with East Africans, you’ll find that some preparing. Typical East African style is to eat with the (right) hand from For East Africa’s Maasai
customs are different from what you may be used to. communal dishes in the centre of the table. There will always be somewhere and other Nilotic peoples,
Before eating, a bowl and a pitcher of water are often passed around for washing hands. If to wash your hands, either a basin and pitcher of water that are passed milk – sometimes
the bowl is brought to you first as the guest, and you aren’t sure what to do, indicate that it around or a sink in the corner of the room. Although food is shared, it’s curdled – is a dietary
should be taken to the head of the family, then do what they do. The usual procedure is to not customary to share drinks, and children generally eat separately. mainstay, often mixed
hold your hands over the bowl while your hostess pours water over them. Sometimes soap is Street snacks and meals-on-the-run are common. European-style restaur- together with blood
provided, and a towel for drying off. ant dining – while readily available in major cities – is not an entrenched drawn from living cows’
The centre of the meal is usually ugali (thick, porridgelike maize- or cassava-based staple) or part of local culture. Much more common are large gatherings at home, jugular veins.
similar, which is normally taken with the right hand from a communal pot, rolled into a small ball or perhaps at a rented hall, to celebrate special occasions, with the meal as
with the fingers, dipped into some sort of sauce, and eaten. Eating with your hand is a bit of an the focal point.
art and may seem awkward at first, but after a few tries it will start to feel more natural. Food is Throughout East Africa, lunch is served between about noon and
never handled or eaten with the left hand, and in some areas it is even considered impolite to 2.30pm, and dinner from around 6.30pm to about 10pm. The smaller
give someone something with the left hand, as this is normally reserved for toiletries. the town, the earlier its dining establishments are likely to close; after
The underlying element in all meal invitations is solidarity between the hosts and the guests, about 7pm in rural areas it can be difficult to find anything other than
and the various customs, such as eating out of a communal dish, are simply expressions of this. street food. During Ramadan many restaurants in coastal areas close
If you receive an invitation to eat but aren’t hungry, it’s OK to explain that you have just eaten. completely during daylight fasting hours.
However, you should still share a few bites of the meal in order to demonstrate your solidarity
with the hosts, and to express your appreciation. Eat Your Words
At the end of the meal, don’t be worried if you can’t finish what is on your plate, as this Want to know mkate from maandazi, and ndizi from nyama? Conquer
shows your hosts that you have been satisfied. However, do try to avoid being the one who the cuisine scene by getting to know the language. The following Swahili
takes the last handful from the communal bowl, as this may leave your hosts worrying they words and phrases will help in Kenya, Tanzania and some parts of Uganda,
haven’t provided enough. and occasionally in Rwanda and Burundi as well. For pronunciation
Other than fruit, desserts are generally not served. Following the meal, the water and wash guidelines see p649.
basin are brought around again so that you can clean your hand. Saying ‘chakula kizuri’ (deli-
cious food!) in Swahili-speaking areas, or whatever the local equivalent is, lets your host know USEFUL PHRASES
that the food was appreciated. I’m a vegetarian. Nakula mboga tu.
I don’t eat meat. Mimi sili nyama.
44 T H E C U LT U R E • • F o o d & D r i n k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • F o o d & D r i n k 45
Is there a restaurant near here? Je, kuna hoteli ya chakula hapo jirani? Meat & Seafood
Do you serve food here? Mnauza chakula hapa? kaa crab
I’d like… Ninataka/Ninaomba ... kuku chicken
Always boil or purify Without hot pepper, please. Bila pilipili, tafadhali. nyama mbuzi goat Along the coast, look
water, and be wary of ice Please bring me the bill. Nipe bili/risiti tafadhali. nyama ya ng’ombe beef for chai masala (spiced
and fruit juices diluted nyama ya nguruwe pork tea), or buy your coffee
with unpurified water. MENU DECODER pweza octopus (usually served grilled, at street markets) from vendors strolling
With fruits and vege- biryani casserole of spices and rice with meat or seafood samaki fish the streets with a freshly
tables, it’s best to follow maandazi semisweet, flat doughnuts brewed pot in one hand,
the adage: ‘Cook it, peel matoke cooked plantains Fruits & Vegetables cups and spoons in the
it, boil it or forget it.’ For mchuzi sauce, sometimes with bits of beef and very well-cooked vegetables chungwa orange other.
more on water safety mishikaki kebab dafu coconut (green)
see p648. mochomo barbecued meat embe mango
ndizi banana matunda fruit
nyama choma roasted meat mboga vegetables
pilau spiced rice, cooked in broth with seafood or meat and vegetables nanasi pineapple
supu soup – usually somewhat greasy, and served with a piece of beef, nazi coconut (ripe)
pork or meat fat in it. ndizi banana
ugali thick, porridgelike maize- or cassava-based staple, available almost nyana tomatoes
everywhere, and known as posho in Uganda. papai papaya
wali na… cooked white rice with... sukuma wiki spinach (boiled)
kuku chicken viazi potatoes
nyama meat vitunguu onions
maharagwe beans
samaki fish Drinks
bia (baridi) beer (cold)
FOOD GLOSSARY jusi ya machungwa orange juice
Basics maji (ya kuchemsha/ya kunywa/safi) water (boiled/drinking/mineral)
baridi cold waragi millet-based alcohol
kijiko spoon soda soda
kikombe cup
kisu knife
kitambaa napkin
cha mikono
sahani plate
tamu sweet
uma fork
ya moto hot
Staples
chipsi chips
maharagwe beans
matoke plantains (when cooked and mashed)
mkate bread
ndizi plantains
viazi potatoes
wali rice (cooked)
Other Dishes & Condiments
asali honey
chumvi salt
mayai (ya kuchemsha) eggs (boiled)
mgando, mtindi, yogurt
maziwalala
sukari sugar
46 www.lonelyplanet.com T H E P E O P L E S O F E A S T A F R I C A • • B u g a n d a 47
The Peoples of
monies and administering the law. The last stage of a person’s life is
that of ‘senior elder’ (atumia ma kisuka), with responsibility for holy
places.
East Africa BUGANDA
The Bantu-speaking Buganda are Uganda’s largest tribal group, compris-
ing about 17% of the population. Their traditional lands are in the areas The Buganda are the
East Africa has a rich mosaic of tribal cultures, with over 300 different north and northwest of Lake Victoria, including Kampala, although source of Uganda’s name,
groups packed into an area roughly a quarter the size of Australia. The today you will meet Buganda throughout the country. Due to significant which means Land of the
vitality of their traditions is expressed in everything from splendid cere- missionary activity most Buganda are Christian, although animist trad- Buganda.
monial attire to pulsating dance rhythms, refined artistry and highly itions do survive.
organised community structure. Experiencing and witnessing all this is Historically, the Buganda, together with the neighbouring Haya, were
likely to be a highlight of your travels. known as one of East Africa’s most highly organised tribes. Their political
system was based around the absolute power of the kabaka (king), who
AKAMBA ruled through district chiefs. This system reached its zenith during the
The heartland of the Bantu-speaking Akamba people is in the area 19th century, when the Buganda came to dominate various neighbour-
east of Nairobi. Relative newcomers to East Africa, the Akamba first ing groups, including the Nilotic Iteso people (who now comprise about
migrated here from the south about 200 years ago in search of food. 8% of Uganda’s population; see p466). Buganda influence was solidified
Because their own low-altitude land was poor, they were forced to during the colonial era, with the British favouring their recruitment to
Renowned for their barter to obtain food stocks from the neighbouring Maasai and Kikuyu. the civil service. During the chaotic Obote/Amin years of the late 1960s
martial prowess, many Soon, they acquired a reputation as great traders, with business dealings and early 1970s, the Bugandan monarchy was abolished, to be restored
Akamba were drafted extending from the coast as far inland as Lake Victoria and north to in 1993, although with no political power.
into Britain’s WWI army; Lake Turkana.
today, they’re still The recent history of the Akamba illustrates the tensions that have EL-MOLO
well-represented among marked so many encounters between East Africa’s traditional cultures The Cushitic-speaking El-Molo are one of East Africa’s smallest tribes, The El-Molo tradition-
Kenyan defence and law and Western ‘values’. In the 1930s, during the height of the colonial numbering less than 4000. Historically the El-Molo were one of the ally subsisted on fish,
enforcement brigades. era, the British administration settled large numbers of white farmers region’s more culturally distinct groups, but in recent times they have supplemented by the oc-
on traditional Akamba lands, and tried to limit the number of cattle been forced to adapt or relinquish many of their old customs in order casional crocodile, turtle,
the Akamba could own by confiscating them. In protest, the Akamba to survive, and intermarriage with members of other tribes is now hippopotamus or bird.
formed the Ukamba Members Association, which marched en masse to common.
Nairobi and squatted peacefully at Kariokor Market until their cattle were The ancestral home of the El-Molo is on two small islands in the mid-
returned. Large numbers of Akamba were subsequently dispossessed to dle of Lake Turkana in Kenya. Over the years an ill-balanced diet and the
make way for Tsavo National Park. effects of too much fluoride began to take their toll. The El-Molo became
All Akamba go through initiation rites at about the age of 12, and increasingly susceptible to disease and, thus weakened, to attacks from
have the same age-set groups common to many of the region’s peoples stronger tribes, and their numbers plummeted.
(see below). Young parents are known as ‘junior elders’ (mwanake for
Women of the El-Molo
men, mwiitu for women) and are responsible for the maintenance and
tribe (left) from Lake
upkeep of the village. They later become ‘medium elders’ (nthele), and
Turkana, Kenya
then ‘full elders’ (atumia ma kivalo), with responsibility for death cere- PHOTO BY TOM COCKREM
AGE SETS
The great significance of age among many of East Africa’s traditional cultures is seen in the
widespread use of age-based groups. In these, all youths of the same age belong to an age-
set, and pass through the various stages of life and their associated rituals together. Each
group has its own leader and community responsibilities, and definition of the age-sets is
often highly refined. Among the Sukuma, for example, who live in the area south of Lake
Victoria, each age-based group traditionally had its own system for counting from one to 10,
with the system understood by others within the group, but not by members of any other
group. Among the Maasai, who have one of the most highly stratified age group systems in
the region, males are organised into age-sets and further into subsets, with interset rivalries
and relationships being one of the defining features of daily life. Although the importance of
age-sets among some tribes has diminished in recent times, they continue to play an impor-
tant role in many areas.
48 T H E P E O P L E S O F E A S T A F R I C A • • H a y a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E P E O P L E S O F E A S T A F R I C A • • H u t u 49
Man of the Hadzabe tribe
TRADITION, MODERNITY & THE FORESTS (opposite), Tanzania
PHOTO BY ARIADNE VAN
ZANDBERGEN
East African society is full of contrasts, but nowhere is the clash between the traditional and the
Western way of life more apparent than among the region’s hunter-gatherer and forest-dwelling
peoples. These include the Twa, who live primarily in the western forests of Rwanda and Burundi,
where they comprise less than 1% of the overall population, and the Hadzabe, whose traditional
lands are in north-central Tanzania around Lake Eyasi. Typically, these communities are among
the most marginalised in East African society, lacking political influence and discriminated against
by more prominent groups.
For the Twa, the Hadzabe and other communities, loss of land and forest means loss of the
only resource base that they have. Over the past decades, the rise of commercial logging, the
ongoing clearing of forests in favour of agricultural land, and the establishment of parks and
conservation areas have combined to dramatically decrease the forest resources and wildlife on
which these people depend for their existence. Additional pressures come from hunting and
poaching, and from nomadic pastoralists – many of whom in turn have been evicted from their
own traditional areas – seeking grazing lands for their cattle. The Hadzabe say that the once
plentiful wildlife in their traditional hunting areas is now gone, and that many days they return
empty-handed from their daily search for meat. Others lament the fact that once-prized skills
such as animal tracking and knowledge of local plants are being relegated to irrelevance.
Although some Hadzabe have turned to tourism and craft-making for subsistence, the benefits developed into the more influential and broad-based African Associa-
of this are sporadic and limited in scope. Some now only hunt for the benefit of the increasing tion. Together with similar groups established elsewhere in Tanzania it
numbers of tourists who come to their lands, and a few have given up their traditional lifestyle constituted one of the country’s earliest political movements and was an
completely. In Rwanda, the Twa have begun mobilising to gain increased political influence and important force in the drive towards independence.
greater access to health care and education, but the government response has thus far been
negligible. Throughout the region, it’s likely to be at least several decades before these people HUTU
are given their voice, and the chance to define their own role in East African society. The Hutu are the original Bantu-speaking farmers who inhabited the area
that is now Rwanda and Burundi. Their origins are unclear, although it
is thought that they were settled in the region by the 11th century, and Under the ubuhake
Today, while the El-Molo have managed to temporarily stabilise their had possibly begun arriving as early as the 5th century. From around the system, many Hutu were
population, they face an uncertain future. While some continue to eke 14th century, the Hutu were joined by the Tutsi, who over the years were forced to indenture them-
out a living from the lake, others have turned to cattle herding or work in able to wrest control of significant political and economic power. Gradu- selves to Tutsi overlords,
the tourism industry. Commercial fishing supplements their traditional ally the Hutu lost ownership of their land, with many living under Tutsi leading to almost total
subsistence, and larger, more permanent settlements in Loyangalani, domination in a feudalistic client-patron relationship known as ubuhake Hutu disenfranchisement.
on Lake Turkana’s southeastern shores, have replaced the El-Molo’s in which land and cattle (and thus power) became further concentrated
traditional dome-shaped island homes of sticks covered with thatch and in the hands of the Tutsi minority.
animal skins. The resentment engendered by the inequities of this system was given
full vent in the 1994 genocide in Rwanda, with which the Hutu are in-
HAYA extricably linked – although large numbers of Hutu have also been mas-
The Haya, who live west of Lake Victoria around Bukoba, have both sacred in neighbouring Burundi over the years. Reconciliation between
Bantu and Nilotic roots, and are one of the largest tribes in Tanzania. the two groups has made gradual progress in Rwanda, but in Burundi
While they’re not the most colourful of the groups you’ll encounter the Hutu remain outside the political spectrum, and extremist elements
The Haya are renowned during your travels, the Haya have an exceptionally rich history, and in the continue to be an ongoing force for instability in the region (see p56
dancers and singers, precolonial era boasted one of the most highly developed early societies for more).
and count East African on the continent.
pop stars Saida Karoli At the heart of traditional Haya society were eight different states or KALENJIN
and Maua among their kingdoms, each headed by a powerful and often despotic mukama, who The Kalenjin people are one of the largest groups in Kenya and –
number. ruled in part by divine right. Order was maintained through a system together with the Kikuyu, Luo, Luyha and Kamba – account for 70% of
of appointed chiefs and officials, assisted by an age group–based army. the country’s population. Although viewed as a single ethnic entity, the
With the rise of European influence in the region, this era of Haya history term ‘Kalenjin’ was actually coined in the 1950s to refer to a loose col-
came to an end. The various groups began to splinter, and many chiefs lection of several different Nilotic groups, including the Kipsigi, Nandi,
were replaced by persons considered more malleable and sympathetic to Marakwet, Pokot and Tugen (Former Kenyan president Daniel arap
colonial interests. Moi’s people). These groups speak different dialects of the same language
Resentment of these propped-up leaders was strong, spurring the (Nandi), but otherwise have distinct traditions and lifestyles. Thanks to
Haya to regroup and form the Bukoba Bahaya Union in 1924. This as- the influence of arap Moi, the Kalenjin have amassed considerable polit-
sociation was initially directed towards local political reform but soon ical power in Kenya.
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Kikuyu witch doctor
The traditional homeland of the various Kalenjin peoples is along the
(left) and his assistant,
western edge of the central Rift Valley area, including Kericho, Eldoret,
Kenya.
Kitale, Baringo and the land surrounding Mt Elgon. Originally pastoral- PHOTO BY ANDERS BLOMQVIST
ists, Kalenjin today are known primarily as farmers. An exception to this
The Kalenjin are known are the cattle-loving Kipsigi, whose cattle rustling continues to cause
for their female herbalist friction between them and neighbouring tribes.
doctors, and for their The Nandi, who are the second largest of the Kalenjin communities
many world-class and comprise about one-third of all Kalenjin, settled in the Nandi Hills
runners, including Paul between the 16th and 17th centuries, where they prospered after learning
Tergat and Tecla Lorupe. agricultural techniques from the Luo and Luyha. They had a formidable
military reputation and, in the late 19th century, managed to delay con-
struction of the Uganda railway for more than a decade until Koitalel,
their chief, was killed.
As with many tribes, the Kalenjin have age-sets into which a man is
initiated after circumcision. Administration of the law is carried out at
the kok, an informal court led by the clan’s elders.
KARAMOJONG
The marginalised Karamojong – at home in Karamoja, in northeastern
Uganda – are one of East Africa’s most insulated, beleaguered and colourful
tribes. As with the Samburu, Maasai and other Nilotic pastoralist peoples,
When cattle are grazed life for the Karamojong centres around cattle, which are kept at night in the The issue eventually became linked with the independence struggle, and
in dry-season camps centre of the family living compound and grazed by day on the surround- the establishment of independent Kikuyu schools.
away from the family ing plains. Cattle are the main measure of wealth, ownership is a mark of The Kikuyu are also known for the opposition association they formed
homestead, the adulthood, and cattle raiding and warfare are central parts of the culture. in the 1920s to protest against the European seizure of large areas of their
Karamojong warriors In times of scarcity, protection of the herd is considered so important that lands, and for their subsequent instigation of the Mau Mau rebellion in
tending them live on milk is reserved for calves and children. the 1950s. Due to the influence of Jomo Kenyatta, Kenya’s first president,
blood from live cattle, Long the subject of often heavy-handed government pressure to aban- the Kikuyu today are disproportionately represented in government and
milk and sometimes don their pastoralist lifestyle, the Karamojong’s plight has been exacer- business. This has proved to be a source of ongoing friction with other
meat. bated by periodic famines, and by the loss of traditional dry-season groups, and a persistent stumbling block on Kenya’s path to national
grazing areas with the formation of Kidepo Valley National Park in the integration.
1960s. While current Ugandan president Yoweri Museveni has permitted
the Karamojong to keep arms to protect themselves against raids from LUO
other groups, including the Turkana in neighbouring Kenya, government The northeastern shores of Lake Victoria are home to the Nilotic Luo
expeditions targeted at halting cattle raiding continue. These factors, people, who began their migration to the area from Sudan around the
combined with easy access to weapons from neighbouring Sudan and a 15th century. Although their numbers are relatively small in Tanzania, in
breakdown of law and order, have made the Karamoja area off limits to Kenya they comprise about 12% of the population and are the country’s Instead of circumcision,
outsiders in recent years. third-largest group. the Luo traditionally
During the independence struggle, many of Kenya’s leading polit- extracted four to six teeth
KIKUYU icians and trade unionists were Luo – including Tom Mboya (assassi- at initiation.
The heartland of the Kikuyu, who comprise about 20% of Kenya’s popu- nated in 1969) and the former vice president of Kenya, Jaramogi Oginga
lation and are the country’s largest ethnic group, surrounds Mt Kenya. Odinga – and they continue to form the backbone of the Kenyan political
The Kikuyu god, Ngai, is They are Bantu people, who are believed to have migrated into the area opposition.
believed to reside on Mt from the east and northeast from around the 16th century onwards, and The Luo have also had a decisive influence on the East African musical
Kenya, and many Kikuyu to have undergone several periods of intermarriage and splintering. Ac- scene. They are notable in particular for their contribution of the highly
homes are still oriented cording to the rich oral traditions of the Kikuyu, there are nine original popular benga style (characterised by its electric guitar licks and bounding
to face the sacred peak. mwaki (clans), all of which trace their origins back to male and female bass rhythms), which has since been adopted by musicians from many
progenitors known as Kikuyu and Mumbi. The administration of these other tribes.
clans, each of which is made up of many nyumba (family groups) was The Luo were originally cattle herders, but the devastating effects of
originally overseen by a council of elders, with great significance placed rinderpest (an acute contagious viral disease of cattle) in the 1890s forced
on the roles of the witch doctor, medicine man and blacksmith. them to adopt fishing and subsistence agriculture, which continue to be
Initiation rites consist of ritual circumcision for boys and clitoridec- the main sources of livelihood for most Luo today. Luo family groups
tomy for girls, though the latter is becoming less common. The practice consist of the man, his wife or wives, and their sons and daughters-in-law.
of clitoridectomy was a source of particular conflict between the Kikuyu The family unit is part of a larger grouping of families or dhoot (clan),
and Western missionaries during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. several of which in turn make up an ogandi (a group of geographically
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Luo village children
One consequence of this competition for land is that many Maasai
(p401), Mfangano Island,
ceremonial traditions can no longer be fulfilled. Part of the ceremony
Kenya
PHOTO BY DAVE LEWIS
where a man becomes a moran (warrior) involves a group of young
men around the age of 14 going out and building a small livestock camp
after their circumcision ceremony. They then live alone there for up
to eight years before returning to the village to marry. Today though,
while the tradition and the will to keep it up survive, the land is often
unavailable.
The Maasai have vibrant artistic traditions that are most vividly seen
in the striking body decoration and beaded ornaments worn by both
men and women. Women in particular are famous for their magnificent
beaded platelike necklaces, while men typically wear the red-checked
shuka (blanket) and carry a distinctive balled club.
While tourism provides an income to an increasing number of Maa-
sai, the benefits are not widespread. In recent years many Maasai have
moved to the cities or coastal resorts, becoming guards for restaurants
and hotels.
The Samburu people who live directly north of Mt Kenya are closely
related to the Maasai linguistically and culturally.
MAKONDE
Although they have their home in one of the most isolated areas of East
Africa, the Makonde have gained fame throughout the region and beyond
related people), each led by a ruoth (chief). Traditional Luo living com- for their beautiful and highly refined ebony woodcarvings. The Makonde traditionally
pounds, which you’ll still see when travelling around Lake Victoria, are The tribe has its origins in northern Mozambique, where many Ma- practised body scarring.
enclosed by fences, and include separate huts for the man and for each konde still live – though in recent years a subtle split has begun to develop Many elders still sport
wife and son. The Luo view age, wealth and respect as converging, with between the group’s Tanzanian and Mozambican branches. Today most facial markings and
the result that elders control family resources and represent the family Tanzanian Makonde live in southeastern Tanzania, on the waterless Ma- (the women) wooden
to the outside world. konde plateau, although many members of the carving community have lip plugs.
since migrated to Dar es Salaam.
MAASAI Like many of their southern neighbours, the Makonde are matrilineal.
Although comprising less than 5% of the population in Kenya and Although customs are gradually changing, children and inheritances
Tanzania, it is the Maasai, more than any other tribe, who have become normally belong to the woman, and it’s still common for husbands to
for many the definitive symbol of ‘tribal’ East Africa. With a reputation move to the villages of their wives after marriage. Makonde settlements
(often quite exaggerated) as fierce warriors, and a proud demeanour, are widely scattered – possibly a remnant of the days when they sought
The Maasai leave drums the Maasai have insisted on maintaining their ethnic identity and trad- to evade slave raids – and there is no tradition of a unified political
and other instruments itional lifestyle, often in the face of great government opposition. Today system. Despite this, a healthy sense of tribal identity has managed to
behind in their famous the life of the Maasai continues to be inextricably bound with that of survive. Makonde villages are typically governed by a hereditary chief
dancing, which is their large herds of cattle, which they graze along the Tanzania–Kenya and a council of elders.
accompanied only by border. Because of their remote location, the Makonde have succeeded in
chants and vigorous The Maasai are Nilotic people who first migrated to the region from remaining largely insulated from colonial and postcolonial influences.
leaping. Sudan about 1000 years ago. They eventually came to dominate a large They are known in particular for their steady resistance to Islam. Today
area of what is now central Kenya until, in the late 19th century, their most Makonde continue to adhere to traditional religions, with the
numbers were decimated by famine and disease, and their cattle herds complex spirit world given its fullest expression in their well-known
routed by rinderpest. carvings.
During the colonial era in Kenya, it was largely Maasai land that was
taken for European colonisation through two controversial treaties. PARE
The creation of Serengeti National Park in Tanzania and the continu- The Bantu-speaking Pare people inhabit the Pare Mountains in north-
ing colonial annexation of Maasai territory put much of the remaining eastern Tanzania, where they migrated several centuries ago from the Among the patrilineal
traditional grazing lands of the Maasai off limits. During subsequent Taita Hills area of southern Kenya. Pare, a deceased male’s
years, as the populations of both the Maasai and their cattle increased, The Pare people are one of Tanzania’s most educated groups and, ghost influences all male
pressure for land became intense and conflict with the authorities was despite their small numbers, have been highly influential in shaping descendants for as long
constant. Government-sponsored resettlement programs have met with the country’s recent history. In the 1940s, they formed the Wapare as the ghost’s name is
only limited success, as Maasai traditions scorn agriculture and land Union, which played an extremely important role in Tanzania’s drive remembered.
ownership. for independence.
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Arabic Swahili (opposite)
The Pare are also known for their rich oral traditions, and for their
henna design being
elaborate rituals centring on the dead. Near most villages are sacred
made, Kenya.
areas in which skulls of tribal chiefs are kept. When people die, they are PHOTO BY ARIADNE VAN
believed to inhabit a netherworld between the land of the living and the ZANDBERGEN
spirit world. If they are allowed to remain in this state, ill fate will befall
their descendants. As a result, rituals allowing the deceased to pass into
the world of the ancestors hold great significance. Traditional Pare beliefs
also hold that when an adult male dies, others in his lineage will die as
well until the cause of his death has been found and ‘appeased’. Many
of the possible reasons for death have to do with disturbances in moral
relations within the lineage or in the village, or with sorcery.
SUKUMA
The Sukuma, who live in the southern Lake Victoria region, comprise
almost 15% of Tanzania’s total population, although it is only relatively
The Sukuma are recently that they have come to view themselves as a single entity. Bantu-
renowned for their speakers, they are closely related to the Nyamwezi, who are Tanzania’s
daring hyena, snake and second-largest tribal group and based around Tabora.
porcupine dances, though The Sukuma are renowned for their sophisticated drumming, and for
dancers (and often their skilled and energetic dancing. Among the focal points of tribal life
animals, too) are usually are lively meetings between the two competing dance societies, the Bagika
treated with traditional and the Bagulu.
medicines beforehand – The Sukuma are also known for their highly structured form of village
as protection for the organisation, in which each settlement is subdivided into chiefdoms ruled TURKANA
dancers, and to calm the by a ntemi (chief) in collaboration with a council of elders. Divisions of The Turkana, one of East Africa’s most colourful tribes, are a Nilotic
animals. land and labour are made by village committees consisting of similarly aged people who live in the harsh desert country of northwestern Kenya,
members from each family in the village. These age-based groups perform where they migrated to from southern Sudan and northeastern Uganda.
numerous roles, ranging from assisting with the building of new houses to Although the Turkana only emerged as a distinct ethnic group during
farming and other community-oriented work. As a result of this system – the early to mid-19th century, they are notable today for their very
which gives most families at least a representational role in many village strong sense of tribal identification. The Turkana people are closely Turkana men were trad-
activities – Sukuma often view houses and land as communal property. related both linguistically and culturally to Uganda’s Karamojong people itionally tattooed on the
(see p50). shoulder and upper arm
SWAHILI Like the Samburu and the Maasai (with whom they are also linguistically for killing an enemy –
East Africa’s coast is home to the Swahili (People of the Coast), descend- linked), the Turkana are primarily cattle herders, although in recent years the right shoulder for
ants of Bantu-Arab traders who share a common language and traditions. increasing numbers have turned to fishing and subsistence farming. Some killing a man, the left for
Although they are generally not regarded as a single ethnic group, the also earn a livelihood through basket weaving and producing other crafts a woman.
Swahili have for centuries had their own distinct societal structures, and for the tourism industry. Personal relationships based on the exchange of
consider themselves to be a single civilisation. cattle, and built up by each herd owner during the course of a lifetime, are
Swahili culture first began to take on a defined form around the 11th of critical importance in Turkana society and function as a social security
century, with the rise of Islam. Today almost all Swahili are adherents of net during times of need.
Swahili is now spoken Islam, although it’s generally a more liberal version than that practised The Turkana are famous for their striking appearance and trad-
in more countries and in the Middle East. Thanks to this Islamic identity, the Swahili have trad- itional garb. Turkana men cover part of their hair with mud, which
by more people than itionally considered themselves to be historically and morally distinct is then painted blue and decorated with ostrich and other feathers.
any other language in from peoples in the interior, and believe they have links northeastwards Despite the intense heat of the Turkana lands, the main garment is a
sub-Saharan Africa. to the rest of the Muslim world. woollen blanket, often with garish checks. Turkana accessories include
Swahili festivals follow the Islamic calendar. The year begins with a stool carved out of a single piece of wood, a wooden fighting staff
Eid al-Fitr, a celebration of feasting and almsgiving to mark the end and a wrist knife. Tattooing is another hallmark of Turkana life. Witch
of Ramadan fasting. The old Persian New Year’s purification ritual of doctors and prophets are held in high regard, and scars on the lower
Nauroz (or Mwaka) was also traditionally celebrated, with the parad- stomach are usually a sign of a witch doctor’s attempt to cast out an
ing of a bull counterclockwise through town followed by its slaughter undesirable spirit.
and several days of exuberant dancing and feasting, though in many In addition to personal adornment, other important forms of artistic
areas Nauroz has now become merged with Eid al-Fitr and is no longer expression include finely crafted carvings and refined a cappella singing.
observed. The festival of Maulid (marking the birth of the Prophet) is Ceremonies play a less significant role among the Turkana people than
another major Swahili festival, marked by decorated mosques and col- among many of their neighbours, and they do not practice circumcision
ourful street processions. or clitoridectomy.
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TUTSI
The tall, warriorlike Tutsi people are thought to have migrated to
present-day Rwanda and Burundi from Ethiopia or southern Sudan
The Watusi – popular in between the 14th and 17th centuries. Through their ownership of cattle
the USA in the 1960s – is and advanced combat skills, they were soon able to establish economic
a Westernised version of and political control over the local Hutu, and this dominance continues
a traditional Tutsi dance. to the present day. At the top of the Tutsi-Hutu feudal relationship
(see p49) was the Tutsi king, or mwami, who was believed to be of
divine origin.
While thousands of Tutsi were massacred during the Rwandan geno-
cide of 1994, in Burundi the Tutsi-dominated regime has also been re-
sponsible for the deaths of many Hutu in the period since independence.
Relations between the Tutsi and neighbouring tribes remain fraught
with mistrust.
73
Environment
THE LAND
Straddling the equator, edged to the east by turquoise Indian Ocean
tides and to the west by a long chain of Rift Valley lakes, is East Africa –
a region that is as diverse geographically and environmentally as it is
culturally.
One of the most inviting zones is the coast, with its coral reefs, sultry It’s estimated that Mt
white-sand beaches, river deltas teeming with life, littoral forest and – Kilimanjaro’s glaciers will
most famously – the Lamu and Zanzibar Archipelagos. This low-lying disappear completely
coastal belt stretches inland for between 15km and 65km before start- by 2020.
ing to rise, steeply at times, to a vast central plateau averaging between
1000m and 2000m above sea level and extending westwards beyond
Rwanda and Burundi. The plateau is punctuated by escarpments, ravines,
mountain ranges and lakes, and spliced by the East African rift system
(see p74), which – in addition to accounting for most of the region’s
lakes – also gives rise to its highest mountains: glacier-capped Mt Kili-
manjaro (5896m) and Mt Kenya (5199m). The Rwenzori Mountains on
the Uganda–Democratic Republic of the Congo (DR Congo) border are
also a result of rift-system geology, formed where uplift occurred between
parallel geological fault lines. Other major mountain ranges include the
Eastern Arc chain (in southern Kenya and northeastern Tanzania) and
the Aberdare Range (Kenya).
Rimming East Africa’s central plateau to the northeast, and extending
from central Kenya to the borders of Somalia and Ethiopia, is a vast, East Africa boasts the
trackless area of bushland, scrub and desert, where rainfall is sparse and continent’s highest
the land is suitable only for cattle grazing. and lowest points
(Mt Kilimanjaro and Lake
WILDLIFE Tanganyika’s floor), and
East Africa’s primeval natural splendour and untamed rawness are among its largest and deepest
the region’s major drawcards. Experiencing this magnificence – whether lakes (Lakes Victoria and
gazing across vast plains trammelled by thousands of wildebeest, or sur- Tanganyika).
rounded by moist, dripping rainforest echoing with the calls of mountain
gorillas – is likely to be a highlight of any visit.
Animals
East Africa’s plains, forests, rivers and lakes are home to an unparalleled
number and diversity of wildlife, including an exceptionally high concen-
tration of large animals. While it’s the ‘Big Five’ (lions, buffaloes, elephants,
leopards and rhinos) that get most of the attention, there are many more
animals to be seen. Zebras, wildebeests, hippos, giraffes, antelopes, elands,
DON’T FEED THE ELEPHANTS!
One of East Africa’s major attractions is the chance to get ‘up close and personal’ with the wild-
life. Remember, however, that the region’s animals are not tame and their actions are often un-
predictable. Heed the warnings of guides and rangers when on safari, and seek the advice of
knowledgeable locals before venturing off on your own. Never get between a mother and her
calves or cubs, and if you want good photos, invest in a telephoto lens instead of approaching
an animal at close range. Be particularly aware of the dangers posed by crocodiles and hippos –
a quick dip in an isolated waterhole or a beckoning river can have more consequences than
you’d bargained for.
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very few in the wild. Rhino sanctuaries and breeding areas include those
THE GREAT RIFT VALLEY in Mkomazi Game Reserve, Tsavo and Lake Nakuru National Parks.
The Great Rift Valley is part of the East African rift system – a massive geological fault slicing Otherwise, Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Crater is one of the best places for
its way almost 6500km across the African continent, from the Dead Sea in the north to Beira trying to spot one. For more on endangered
(Mozambique) in the south. The rift system was formed more than 30 million years ago when the Other species fighting for survival include East Africa’s famed mountain sea turtles, and how
tectonic plates that comprise the African and Eurasian landmasses collided and then diverged gorillas (see p97); wild dogs (most likely spotted in Tanzania’s Selous Game they’re being helped in
again. As the plates moved apart, massive tablets of the earth’s crust collapsed between them, Reserve); hawksbill, green, olive ridley and leatherback turtles; dugongs; parts of East Africa, see
resulting over the millennia in the escarpments, ravines, flatlands and lakes that mark much of red colobus monkeys (best seen in Zanzibar’s Jozani Forest, p150); and http://news.bbc.co.uk/2
East Africa today. Pemba flying fox bats. /hi/africa/4371363.stm.
The rift system is especially famous for its calderas and volcanoes (including Mt Kilimanjaro, Mt Rare or endangered bird species include Uganda’s shoebill stork; Uluguru
Meru and the calderas of the Crater Highlands) and for its lakes. Some of these lakes – including bush shrikes; Usambara weavers; Amani sunbirds; and roseate terns.
Lakes Tanganyika and Nyasa – are very deep, with floors plunging well below sea level, although
their surfaces may be several hundred metres above sea level. Plants
The East African section of the Rift Valley consists of two branches formed where the main rift East Africa is bursting with plant life that is just as diverse and intriguing
system divides north of Kenya’s Lake Turkana. The western branch, or Western Rift Valley, makes as its wildlife. This ranges from cool, dark patches of moist tropical for-
its way past Lake Albert in Uganda through Rwanda and Burundi down to Lake Tanganyika, est to the dusty, acacia-studded bushlands and thickets so typical of the
after which it meanders southeast to Lake Nyasa. Seismic and volcanic disturbances still occur East African savanna. While much of the region’s original forest cover
throughout the western branch. The eastern branch, known as the Eastern or Gregory Rift, runs has been cleared for agriculture, small but significant areas remain. The
south from Lake Turkana past Lakes Natron and Manyara in Tanzania before joining again with rainforests of southwestern Uganda and in bordering areas of Rwanda
the Western Rift in northern Malawi. The lakes of the Eastern Rift are smaller and shallower than are the most extensive. There are also small but highly biodiverse areas
those in the western branch, with some of them only waterless salt beds. of tropical rainforest in northeastern Tanzania. Montane forests exist
Places where the escarpments of the Rift Valley are particularly impressive include Kenya’s Rift throughout the highlands of Kenya and in western Uganda, and high- Gorillas in the Mist
Valley Province, the Nkuruman Escarpment east of Kenya’s Masai Mara National Reserve, and the altitude heather and moorlands are found above the tree line in these by Dian Fossey offers
terrain around Ngorongoro Conservation Area and Lake Manyara National Park in Tanzania. areas. Along the coast are stands of coconut palms and extensive man- an intriguing look at
grove forests. the complexities of
Another tree that you’re likely to see is the baobab, the rootlike halting poaching while
kudus, gazelles and dik-diks are all commonly seen, and there are many branches of which make it look as if it were standing on its head. You’ll recounting the author’s
predatory animals prowling around in addition to those already men- also undoubtedly see various species of acacia, including the distinctive life among Rwanda’s
tioned, including hyenas and wild dogs. East Africa is also renowned for its flat-topped acacia trees that are among the first impressions of East Africa mountain gorillas.
primates, including chimpanzees (especially in Tanzania’s Gombe Stream for many visitors.
and Mahale Mountains National Parks) and gorillas (in southwestern
Uganda and in Rwanda). See the Wildlife Guide (p57) and the Mountain NATIONAL PARKS
Despite all the attention Gorillas chapter (p97) for more details. East Africa has one of the world’s most impressive collections of national
East Africa’s wildlife Keeping all of these company are over 60,000 insect species, includ- parks, all of which are worth as much time as you are able to spare.
has received over the ing the malaria-carrying anopheles mosquito and the bothersome tsetse Parks (the term is used loosely here to refer to national parks, wildlife
decades, new species are fly; several dozen types of reptiles and amphibians; and many species of reserves and conservation areas) notable for their high concentrations of
still being discovered. snake. wildlife include Serengeti National Park (p193) and Ngorongoro Conser-
See www.kipunji.org In addition to the rich coastal marine life found in East Africa’s Indian vation Area (p197) in Tanzania, and Masai Mara National Reserve (p393)
for the story behind the Ocean waters, Lake Tanganyika and Lake Nyasa are notable for having and Amboseli National Park (p300) in Kenya. Other parks are famous
discovery of the region’s among the highest fish diversities of any lakes in the world, with an ex-
newest monkey. ceptionally large number of colourful cichlid species.
Fluttering around and above all this terrestrial wealth are close to 1500 THE DOS & DON’TS OF PARK VISITING
different types of birds, including colourful kingfishers, raucous hornbills, Whichever of East Africa’s parks you visit, help out the animals and the environment by follow-
stately fish eagles, ostriches and enough flamingos to turn many lakes ing these guidelines:
into a haze of pink. There are also many rare birds, including the elusive Don’t camp away from official sites.
shoebill stork. Uganda alone – which many ornithologists consider to be
one of the continent’s premier bird-watching destinations – hosts over Don’t drive off the tracks.
1000 bird species within its 236,000 sq km. Don’t honk your car horn.
Don’t drive within park borders outside the officially permitted hours.
ENDANGERED SPECIES
Black rhinos have gained one of the highest profiles among East Africa’s Don’t litter, and be especially careful about discarding burning cigarette butts and matches.
endangered species, as they struggle against the ravages of poaching, Don’t pick flowers or remove or destroy any vegetation.
trying to keep their horns from being used for traditional medicines in
Asia and for dagger handles in Yemen. Thanks to major conservation Don’t exceed the speed limits (in most parks, between 30km/h and 50km/h).
efforts, black rhino numbers are again on the rise, although there are still
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EAST AFRICA’S TOP PARKS & RESERVES
Best Time Best Time
Park Features Activities to Visit Page Park Features Activities to Visit Page
Burundi Mt Elgon NP extinct volcano & rainforest; elephants walking, Dec-Feb p413
trekking, fishing
PN de la Rusizi wetlands hippo viewing year-round p607
Mt Kenya NP rainforest, moorland & glacial mountain; trekking, Jan-Feb, p376
Democratic Republic of the Congo (DR Congo) elephants, buffaloes, mountain flora climbing Aug-Sep
PN des Virungas chain of volcanoes; mountain gorillas gorilla tracking May-Sep p561 Nairobi NP open plains with urban backdrop; black wildlife drives, year-round p294
rhinos, birdlife, rare antelopes walking
Kenya
Saiwa Swamp NP swamplands & riverine forest; sitatunga walking, year-round p412
Aberdare NP dramatic highlands, waterfalls & rainforest; trekking, fishing, year-round p373 antelopes, crown cranes, otters, colobus bird-watching
elephants, black rhinos, bongo antelopes, gliding monkeys
black leopards
Samburu, Buffalo semiarid open savanna; elephants, leopards, wildlife drives year-round p421
Amboseli NP dry plains & scrub forest; elephants, wildlife drives Jun-Oct p300 Springs & crocodiles
buffaloes, lions, antelopes Shaba NRs
Arabuko Sokoke FR coastal forest; Sokoke scops owls, Clarke’s bird tours, walking, year-round p334 Shimba Hills NR densely forested hills; elephants, sable walking, year-round p321
weavers, elephant shrews, butterflies, running, cycling antelopes, leopards forest tours
elephants
Tsavo NP sweeping plains & ancient volcanic cones; wildlife drives, rock year-round p303
Hell’s Gate NP dramatic rocky outcrops & gorges; cycling, walking year-round p360 Big Five climbing, walking
lammergeyers, eland, giraffes, lions
Rwanda
Kakamega FR virgin tropical rainforest; red-tailed monkeys, walking, year-round p406
flying squirrels, 330 bird species bird-watching PN des Volcans towering volcanoes; mountain gorillas gorilla tracking, May-Sep p583
volcano climbing
Lake Bogoria NR scenic soda lake; flamingos, greater kudu, bird-watching, year-round p366
leopards walking, hot springs PN Nyungwe Forest dense tropical forest; chimpanzees & huge chimp tracking, May-Sep p591
troops of Angolan colobus monkeys waterfalls
Lake Nakuru NP hilly grassland & alkaline lakeland; flamingos, wildlife drives year-round p364
black rhinos, lions, warthogs, birds Tanzania
Malindi MNP & clear waters & coral reefs; tropical fish, diving, Oct-Mar p338/ Arusha NP Mt Meru, lakes & crater; zebras, giraffes, trekking & vehicle year-round p188
Watamu MNP turtles snorkelling p332 elephants safaris, walking
Gombe Stream NP lakeshore, forest; chimpanzees chimp tracking year-round p216
Masai Mara NR savanna & grassland; Big Five, antelopes, wildlife drives, wildebeest p393
cheetahs, hyenas ballooning migration, Katavi NP floodplains, lakes & woodland; buffaloes, vehicle & Jun-Oct p218
Jul-Oct hippos, antelopes walking safaris
Meru NP rainforest, swamplands & grasslands; white wildlife drives, year-round p387 Lake Manyara NP Lake Manyara; hippos, water birds, canoe & vehicle Jun-Feb p191
rhinos, elephants, lions, cheetahs, lesser kudu fishing elephants safaris
Mikumi NP Mkata floodplains; lions, giraffes, elephants vehicle safaris year-round p225
Key
CA – Conservation Area FR – Forest Reserve GR – Game Reserve MNP – Marine National Park Ngorongoro CA Ngorongoro Crater; black rhinos, lions, vehicle safaris Jun-Feb p197
NP – National Park NR – National Reserve PN – Parc National elephants, zebras, flamingos
ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ
78 E N V I R O N M E N T • • N a t i o n a l Pa r k s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • N a t i o n a l Pa r k s & R e s e r v e s o f E a s t A f r i c a 79
national parks & reserves
0 60 km
NATIONAL PARKS & RESERVES OF EAST AFRICA 0 40 miles
EAST AFRICA’S TOP PARKS & RESERVES (CONTINUED)
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
Ὀ
ὈὈὈ Ὀ
Best Time
Park Features Activities to Visit Page SUDAN
ETHIOPIA
Rubondo Island NP Lake Victoria; birdlife, sitatungas, walks, chimp Jun-Nov p206
chimpanzees tracking, boating,
Malka
fishing Sibiloi
ὈὈ
ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ
ὈὈ
Kidepo Lake Mari
NP NP
Valley Turkana
NP Central
Saadani GR Wami River, beach; birds, hippos, crocodiles boat trips,wildlife Jun-Feb p160 Aswa-Lolim Matheniko
Island
NP
drives & walks DEMOCRATIC GR GR South
REPUBLIC OF U G A N D A Bokora Island Marsabit
THE CONGO Nasolot NP
GR NR NR Marsabit
South
Selous GR Rufiji River, lakes, woodland; elephants, boat, walking & Jun-Oct, p236 NP
SOMALIA
Budongo Murchison Turkana Losai
Pian-Upe NR
Lake Central Falls NP NR
hippos, wild dogs, black rhinos, birds vehicle safaris Jan-Feb Albert FR GR
Saiwa Swamp Maralal
ὈὈ
Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ Ὀ
Mt Elgon NP NS Samburu KENYA
NP Laikipia NR
NR
Serengeti NP plains & grasslands, Grumeti River; vehicle & balloon year-round p193 Rwenzori Kerio Valley Shaba
Mountains Kibale Forest Kamnarok NR NR
wildebeests, zebras, lions, cheetahs, giraffes safaris NP NP KAMPALA Bisanadi
Queen Kakamega Buffalo Mt Kenya NR Rahole
Elizabeth FR Lake Bogoria Springs NR
Bwindi NR NR
NP
Tarangire NP Tarangire River, woodland, baobabs; vehicle safaris Jun-Oct p192 Impenetrable
NP Lake Nakuru
Aberdare
NP Mwea
Meru
NP Kora
Parc National NP NR
elephants, zebras, wildebeests, birds des Virungas Mgahinga Lake Mburo LAKE Hell's Gate
NR North
Mt Kenya Kitui NR
Ὀ
ὈὈὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ
Gorilla NP VICTORIA NP Longonot NP
NP Masai Mara NP
Uganda Parc National NR NAIROBI South Kitui
Arawale
NR
Boni
NR
de l'Akagera Nairobi NR
Parc
National RWANDA NP Dodori
Mt 2°S
Budongo Central FR dense tropical forest; packed full of chimp tracking, May-Aug p545 des Volcans KIGALI Rubondo Lake Kilimanjaro Tsavo East
NR
Parc National Island Serengeti Natron NP Amboseli NP
primates forest walks, bird Nyungwe Burigi NP NP NP Chyulu
Forest GR Mt
viewing Parc National Ngorongoro Kilimanjaro
NP
Arabuko
de la Kibira Maswa CA Tsavo West Sokoke FR
Ὀ
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ
Parc National GR Lake Mt NP
Manyara Meru Malindi Marine
Bwindi primeval tropical forest; mountain gorillas gorilla tracking, May-Sep p523 de la Rurubu
BUJUMBURA Parc National NP Lake
Arusha
NP NP
Impenetrable NP bird-watching de la Rusizi Lake
Eyasi
Manyara Shimba Hills Watamu Marine
NR NP 4°S
BURUNDI Kigosi Mkomazi
GR GR
Tarangire
Kibale Forest NP lush forest; highest density of primates chimp tracking, May-Aug p511 Gombe Moyowosi NP Kisite-Mpunguti
GR
in Africa forest elephant Stream
NP
Marine NP
TANZANIA Pemba
La
viewing
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
Ὀke
Ugalla River Zanzibar
GR Archipelago
6°S
Lake Mburo NP savanna & lakes; zebra, impalas, eland wildlife walks, year-round p535 Mahale DODOMA Saadani
Ta
Mountains Kisigo GR Zanzibar
ng
& topi boat trips NP Katavi GR
an
NP
yik
Rungwa DAR ES SALAAM
a
GR
Mgahinga volcanoes; mountain gorillas gorilla tracking, Jun-Sep p531 Rukwa Mikumi 40°E
DEMOCRATIC GR NP
Gorilla NP pygmy villages, REPUBLIC OF Lake
Ruaha
NP
Mafia
ὈὈὈ
Udzungwa Island
bird-watching THE CONGO Rukwa Mountains MP 8°S
NP
Selous
Mt Elgon NP extinct volcano; duikers, buffalos, trekking Dec-Feb & p502 GR
INDIAN
lammergier vultures Jun-Aug Kitulo
NP OCEAN
Murchison Falls NP thundering falls & the Victoria Nile; launch trip, wildlife year-round p541 10°S
elephants, hippos, crocodiles, shoebill storks drives
ZAMBIA
ke Malawi)
Queen Elizabeth NP lakes, gorges & savanna; hippos, birds, launch trip, chimp year-round p520
MALAWI
LEGEND
chimpanzees tracking CA Conservation Area
(La
FR Forest Reserve
GR Game Reserve
Rwenzori Mountains Africa’s highest mountain range; rugged trekking, Jun-Aug p516 Lake Nyasa MOZAMBIQUE
MP Marine Park
NP National Park
NP blue monkeys, chimpanzees, hyraxes mountain climbing NR National Reserve
NS National Sanctuary
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and inaccessibility of many areas. Entrenched interests are also a major
PARK HOPPING ON A BUDGET contributing factor, with everyone from the poachers themselves (often
Visiting East Africa’s parks can be a challenge if you’re on a budget. Park fees, transport and local villagers struggling to earn some money) to ivory dealers, embas-
accommodation costs, and the costs of getting around once you’re in the park, quickly add sies and government officials at the highest levels trying to get a piece
up, and before you know it, your daily budget will be in shreds. Following are a few things to of the pie. In Battle for the Elephants,
consider. In 1990, following a vigorous campaign by conservation groups, the Iain and Oria Douglas-
For maximum savings, visit parks with lower entry fees. While daily fees at most parks are Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (Cites) im- Hamilton describe with
between US$15 and US$50 per day, there are a few – notably Gombe Stream and Mahale plemented a ban on ivory import and export. Although this worldwide harsh clarity the ongoing
Mountains in Tanzania – where fees have been set higher to moderate visitor use. ban was subsequently downgraded in some areas to permit limited trade political battles over
in ivory, it allowed dwindling elephant populations in East and southern elephants and the ivory
Fees at many parks in the region cover a 24-hour period. This means you can get the best
Africa to make marked recoveries. Whether these gains will be lasting trade in Africa.
value for your money by entering about noon and getting in good evening and morning remains to be seen. The now partially reopened ivory trade seems to
wildlife-watching hours before leaving or having to pay again at noon the next day. A few have resulted in an increase in poaching across the continent, although
parks – Ngorongoro Conservation Area is the main one here – regulate entry times, which this connection is disputed by those who note that funds from legal ivory
means you’ll have to pay significantly more for the same amount of time watching the sales can be used towards conservation.
wildlife. Just as worrisome as poaching is deforestation, with East Africa’s
Camping is possible in or near most parks, and can save considerably on costs compared with forest areas today representing only a fraction of the region’s original
staying in a lodge or luxury tented camp. Remember, though, to stick to public or ‘ordinary’ forest cover. On the Zanzibar Archipelago, for example, only about 5%
campsites, since ‘special’ campsites cost much more. Most parks have a mixture of both, but of the dense tropical forest that once blanketed the islands still remains.
in Tanzania’s Kilimanjaro, for example, all camping is charged at ‘special’ campsite rates. In sections of the long Eastern Arc mountain chain, which sweeps in an
arc from southern Kenya down towards central Tanzania, forest deple-
Parks located near a convenient access town are usually a good bet, as there will be public
tion has caused such serious erosion that entire villages have had to be
transport, or transport organised with a tour operator will be relatively inexpensive. However, shifted to lower areas. In densely populated Rwanda and Burundi, many
once at the park you’ll then have the costs of getting around. Parks where you can take public previously forested areas have been completely cleared to make way for No Man’s Land by George
transport to the gate, and then get around on your own steam – eg by hiking or organising a agriculture. Monbiot is a fascinating
walking safari – will be the cheapest. Deforestation brings with it soil erosion, shrinking water catchment albeit controversial
and cultivable areas, and decreased availability of traditional building account of how the
materials, foodstuffs and medicines. It also means that many birds and Maasai were forced from
for a particular type of animal, such as Parc National des Volcans (p583) animals lose their habitats, and that local human populations risk losing their traditional grazing
in Rwanda and Bwindi Impenetrable National Park (p523) in Uganda their lifeblood. While the creation of forest reserves, especially in Kenya lands in the name of
(both set aside for the protection of the endangered mountain gorillas). and Tanzania, has been a start in addressing the problem, tree-felling conservation.
At Gombe Stream (p216) and Mahale Mountains (p216) National Parks prohibitions are often not enforced.
Mangroves play an in Tanzania, and at Uganda’s Kibale Forest National Park (p511), chim- Unregulated tourism and development also pose serious threats to
essential role in coastal panzees are the main attraction. East Africa’s ecosystems. On the northern tip of Zanzibar, for example,
ecosystems by control- Places where trekking is a highlight include Kenya’s Mt Kenya National new hotels are being built at a rapid rate, without sufficient provision for
ling erosion, enriching Park (p376), Mt Elgon National Park (Kenya and Uganda, p502 and waste disposal and maintenance of environmental equilibrium. Inappro-
surrounding waters with p503), and Tanzania’s Kilimanjaro (p175), Arusha (p188) and Udzungwa priate visitor use is another aspect of the issue: the tyre tracks crisscross-
nutrients and providing Mountains (p226) National Parks and the Ngorongoro Conservation ing off-road areas of Kenya’s Masai Mara, the litter found along some
local communities with Area (p197). popular trekking routes on Mt Kilimanjaro, and the often rampant use
insect-resistant wood. There are also several marine national parks where you can go diving of firewood by visitors and tour operators alike are prime examples.
or snorkelling on an underwater safari. The main ones are Malindi (p338)
and Watamu (p332) Marine National Parks in Kenya. There’s also Mafia The Solutions?
Island Marine Park (p241) in Tanzania, although most diving here is top For years, the conservation ‘establishment’ regarded human populations
end. The following table gives an overview of major parks. For more infor- as a negative factor in environmental protection, and local inhabitants The Green Belt
mation on these, and on others not listed here, see the country chapters. were often excluded from national parks or other protected areas because Movement by Wangari
it was assumed that they damaged natural resources. A classic example is Maathai makes for dry
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES that of the Maasai, who were forced from parts of their traditional graz- reading, but the story is
Despite its abundance of national parks and other protected areas, East ing lands around Serengeti National Park for the sake of conservation inspiring – chronicling
Africa suffers from several major environmental scourges. One of the and tourism. East Africa’s first female
most notorious is poaching, which occurs throughout the region. In one Fortunately, the tide has begun to turn, and it’s now recognised that Nobel Peace Prize winner
sense, it’s not difficult to see why: 1kg of ivory is worth about US$300 steps taken in the name of conservation will ultimately backfire if not as she launches a highly
wholesale, and rhino horn is valued at US$2000 per kilogram. This done with the cooperation and involvement of local communities. Com- successful grass-roots
amounts to as much as US$30,000 for a single horn, or about 100 times munity-based conservation has become a critical concept as tour op- initiative.
what the average East African earns in a year. Poaching is also difficult erators, funding organisations and others recognise that East Africa’s
to control due to resource and personnel shortages and the vastness protected areas are unlikely to succeed in the long term unless local
© Lonely Planet Publications
82 E N V I R O N M E N T • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l I s s u e s www.lonelyplanet.com
people can obtain real benefits. If there are tangible benefits for local
inhabitants – benefits such as increased local income from visitors to
See www.esok.org for an wilderness areas – then natural environments have a much better chance
introduction to regional of evading destruction.
ecotourism initiatives. Much of this new awareness is taking place at the grass-roots level,
with a sprouting of activities such as Kenya’s Green Belt Movement and
community-level erosion control projects. It also helps when visitors
become more aware of the issues; see p19 for some tips on what you
can do.
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
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the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
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57
Wildlife Guide
East Africa is teeming with wildlife. From the vast wildebeest herds that
stampede across the plains of Serengeti National Park and Masai Mara
National Reserve, to chimpanzee bands frolicking in the rainforests of
southwestern Uganda, the region is one of the continent’s premier safari
destinations. In few other places on earth can you find such an impres-
sive collection of large animals and such a diversity of environmental
and climatic conditions within a similarly sized geographical area. Best
of all, much of this natural wealth is readily accessible to visitors, thanks
to enlightened conservation policies and an unparalleled collection of
national parks and reserves. The East African safari experience is made
all the more alluring as the habitats favoured by early humans – mosaics
of riverine forest, savanna and lake shore – remain much as they did a
million years ago, when our ancestors shared the plains with many of the
animal species that still roam around today.
Wherever you head in the region, and whatever type of safari you
choose, it’s worth remembering that watching wildlife is about far
more than just ‘seeing’ the animals and ticking them off on check-
lists. It’s much more about experiencing East Africa untamed, getting
a glimpse into nature’s magnificent synchrony and understanding how
the rhythms of the wild can be best protected for future generations.
Doing all this takes time – time to loiter for hours at a watering hole,
to sit in one spot at dawn while the morning rises around you, or to
learn about the animals’ habits and migration patterns, and the myriad
factors affecting them. It also often takes money as well, although it’s
possible with some planning to keep things at a reasonable level. The
more understanding you can accumulate about the animals and their
environment, the more satisfied you’ll be that your East African safari
has been time and money well spent.
Lions drinking, Ruaha
National Park, Tanzania
PHOTO BY ARIADNE VAN
ZANDBERGEN
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PRIMATES BABOON Ever opportunistic,
baboons often visit camp
Papio cynocephalus
sites and may become
Baboons are unmistakable. The yel-
Greater bushbabies are
named for their plaintive
BUSHBABY low baboon (P. c. cynocephalus) and (dangerous) pests.
PHOTO BY JASON EDWARDS
Greater or thick-tailed bush- the olive baboon (P. c. anubis; pic-
wailing calls (the calls
baby (Otolemur crassicaudatus, tured) are named for their differing
of lesser bushbabies are
pictured); East African lesser hair colour. Baboons live in troops
rarely noticed).
PHOTO BY MITCH REARDON
bushbaby (Galago senegalensis); of between eight and 200; contrary
Zanzibar lesser bushbaby to popular belief, there is no sin-
(Galagoides zanibaricus) gle dominant male. Social inter-
A primitive primate, bushbabies actions are complex, with males
have heightened night vision and accessing only certain females, males forming alliances to dominate
extremely sensitive hearing, making other males, and males caring for unrelated juveniles. Baboons forage in
them ideally adapted to their nocturnal way of life. Fruit and tree-sap are woodland-savanna for grasses, tubers, fruits, invertebrates and occasion-
the mainstay of their diet, supplemented by insects and, in the case of the ally small vertebrates.
greater bushbaby, lizards, nestlings and eggs. Locally very common, they are Size: Shoulder height 75cm; length 1.6m, including 70cm tail; weight up to 45kg; male larger than
difficult to see because they are strictly nocturnal. female, and twice as heavy. Distribution: Throughout the region. Status: Abundant.
Size: Greater bushbaby length 80cm, including 45cm tail; weight up to 1.5kg. Lesser bushbaby
length 40cm; weight 150g to 200g. Distribution: Lightly wooded savanna to thickly forested areas; CHIMPANZEE Though requiring a rich
year-round food supply
greater and lesser bushbabies occur throughout the region. Status: Common, but strictly nocturnal. Pan troglodytes
and preferring produc-
The chimpanzee is our closest living
The male vervet
monkey has a distinctive
VERVET MONKEY relative and behaves like it, engaging tive, moist forests, the
chimpanzee is adaptable
Cercopithecus aethiops in cooperative hunting, tool manu-
bright-blue scrotum, an and is found in a wide
Conspicuous inhabitants of the facture and use, and war. They are
important signal of status range of habitats.
woodland-savanna, vervet mon- highly sociable, living in communi- PHOTO BY ARIADNE VAN
in the troop. ZANDBERGEN
PHOTO BY ARIADNE VAN
keys are easily recognised by their ties numbering up to 120; however,
ZANDBERGEN
grizzled grey hair and black face all individuals in a social group rarely
fringed with white. Troops may congregate and the typical group size
number up to 30. Vervet monkeys is much smaller. Individuals may
have a sophisticated vocal reper- also spend considerable time alone. Primarily vegetarians consuming fruit,
toire, with, for example, different bark, stems and leaves, chimps also eat insects, nestling birds, eggs and
calls for different predators. They are diurnal, and forage for fruits, seeds, larger prey, including monkeys.
leaves, flowers, invertebrates and the occasional lizard or nestling. They Size: Up to 1.7m when standing; weight 25kg to 55kg, male larger than female. Distribution:
rapidly learn where easy pickings can be found around lodges and camp Equatorial forest in western Tanzania, Rwanda, Burundi and western Uganda; best seen in Gombe
sites, but become pests when they are accustomed to being fed. Stream and Mahale Mountains National Parks. Status: Threatened by habitat destruction and
Size: Length up to 1.3m, including 65cm tail; weight 3kg to 9kg; male larger than female. hunting (ie illegal chimp trafficking), chimpanzees are endangered and occur in small isolated
Distribution: All savanna and woodland habitats. Status: Very common and easy to see. populations.
The blue monkey’s social
group may be as large as
BLUE (SAMANGO) MONKEY GORILLA Male gorillas make all
decisions regarding
Cercopithecus mitis Gorilla gorilla
30 but generally number movements, foraging,
Similar to vervet monkeys, but Two races occur in the region: east-
between four and 12. and where and when
PHOTO BY ANDERS BLOMQVIST
slightly larger and much darker, ern lowland gorillas (G. g. graueri),
to rest.
blue monkeys have a grey to black numbering 4000 in eastern Demo- PHOTO BY DOUG MCKINLAY
face, black shoulders, limbs and cratic Republic of the Congo and
tail, and a reddish-brown or olive- Rwanda; and mountain gorillas
brown back. They are more arbo- (G. g. beringei; pictured), of which
real than vervet monkeys, and there are only 600 to 700 left in the
generally prefer dense forest and DR Congo/Rwanda/Uganda bor-
woodland rather than savanna. They feed largely on fruit, bark, gum der region. Gorillas inhabit humid
and leaves. Social groups usually consist of related females and their equatorial rainforest up to 4000m. Groups number between two and 20,
young, and a single adult male. Their broad diet allows them to occupy usually with a single adult male (silverback), though large groups of the
relatively small home ranges. eastern race may contain up to four silverbacks. They are vegetarians.
Size: Length 1.4m, including 80cm tail; weight normally up to 15kg, but as much as 23kg; male Size: Height up to 1.8m; mass up to 210kg (males), 70kg to 100kg (females). Distribution:
larger than female. Distribution: Throughout most evergreen forests and forest patches. Status: Equatorial forest in western Tanzania, Rwanda, Burundi and southwestern Uganda. Status:
Locally common; active by day; often difficult to see in foliage. Easy to see in Uganda’s Kibale Forest. Threatened by poaching, habitat destruction and civil unrest; highly endangered.
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CARNIVORES STRIPED HYENA
Hyaena hyaena
Hyenas are lean, long-legged ani-
Genets are solitary,
sleeping by day in
GENET mals whose overall appearance ‘THIS IMAGE
Small-spotted genet (Genetta is of more robust animals due
burrows, rock crevices
genetta, pictured); large-spotted to their long, shaggy manes and NOT AVAILABLE
or tree hollows.
PHOTO BY DAVE HAMMAN
genet (G. tigrina) ‘capes’ along their backs. Striped IN PICK & MIX’
Relatives of mongooses, genets re- hyenas subsist largely by scaveng-
semble long, slender domestic cats, ing from the kills of other preda-
with foxlike faces. The two species tors and carrying off large parts to
in the region can be differentiated cache. They also catch insects and
by the tail tips – white in the small- small vertebrates, but are poor hunters of larger prey.
spotted, black in the large-spotted. Size: Shoulder height 65cm to 80cm; mass 25kg to 45kg. Distribution: Central Tanzania into arid
The former has a crest along the spine, which it raises when threatened. zones of northern Kenya. Status: Uncommon; strictly nocturnal.
All-black individuals of both species may occur, particularly in mountain-
ous regions. They feed on rodents, birds, reptiles, eggs, insects and fruits. SPOTTED HYENA Spotted hyena clans,
which can contain dozens
Size: Shoulder height 18cm; length 85cm to 1.1m, including 45cm tail; weight up to 3kg. Crocuta crocuta
of individuals, are led by
Distribution: Widely distributed throughout the region. Status: Very common, but strictly Widely reviled as scavengers, spot-
females.
nocturnal; often the most common small carnivore seen at night. ted hyenas are highly efficient PHOTO BY ARIADNE VAN
ZANDBERGEN
predators with a fascinating social
Collectively, mongooses
intimidate much larger
MONGOOSE system. Females are larger than, and
Many of the small animals that dash dominant to, males and have male
enemies.
PHOTO BY ARIADNE VAN
in front of cars in Africa are mon- physical characteristics, including
ZANDBERGEN
gooses. A few species, such as the an erectile clitoris that renders the
dwarf mongoose (Helogale parvula; sexes virtually indistinguishable at
pictured) and the banded mongoose a distance. Spotted hyenas are mas-
(Mungos mungo) are intensely so- sively built and appear distinctly canine, but they are more closely related
cial, keeping contact with twittering to cats than dogs. They can run at a speed of 60km/h, and a pack can easily
calls while foraging. Others, such dispatch adult wildebeests and zebras. Their ‘ooo-oop’ call is one of the most
as the slender mongoose (Galerella distinctive East African night sounds.
sanguinea) – with a black-tipped tail that it holds aloft when running – Size: Shoulder height 85cm; length up to 1.8m, including tail of up to 30cm; weight up to 80kg.
and the white-tailed mongoose (Ichneumia albicauda), are usually soli- Distribution: Throughout the region, increasingly restricted to conservation areas. Status: Com-
tary. Family groups are better at spotting danger and raising kittens. mon where there is suitable food and often the most common large predator in protected areas;
Invertebrates are their most important prey. mainly nocturnal but also seen during the day.
Size: Ranges from the dwarf mongoose at 40cm in length and up to 400g in weight, to the white-
tailed mongoose at 1.2m and up to 5.5kg. Distribution: Widely distributed. They prefer open CHEETAH
areas. Status: Common; sociable species are diurnal, while solitary species are generally nocturnal. Acinonyx jubatus
Three out of every four
The world’s fastest land mammal,
Aardwolves may suffer
huge population crashes
AARDWOLF cheetahs can reach speeds of over hunts fail for cheetahs.
PHOTO BY ALEX DISSANAYAKE
Proteles cristatus 105km/h, but become exhausted
following spraying for
The smallest of the hyena family, after a few hundred metres and
locusts (the spraying also
aardwolves subsist almost entirely therefore usually stalk prey to
kills termites).
PHOTO BY LUKE HUNTER
on harvester termites (which are within 60m before unleashing their
generally ignored by other termite tremendous acceleration. Cheetahs
eaters because they are so noxious), prey on antelopes weighing up to
licking more than 200,000 from the 60kg as well as hares and young
ground each night. Unlike other wildebeests and zebras. Litters may
hyaenids, they don’t form clans; be as large as nine, but in open sa-
instead they forage alone and mates form only loose associations with vanna habitats most cubs are killed by other predators, particularly lions.
each other. The male assists the female in raising the cubs, mostly by baby- Young cheetahs disperse from the mother when aged around 18 months.
sitting at the den while the mother forages. Aardwolves are persecuted in The males form coalitions; females remain solitary for life.
the mistaken belief that they kill stock. Size: Shoulder height 85cm; length up to 2.2m, including tail up to 70cm; weight up to 65kg.
Size: Shoulder height 40cm to 50cm; length 80cm to 1m, including tail of up to 25cm; weight 8kg to Distribution: Largely restricted to protected areas or the regions surrounding them; shuns
12kg. Distribution: Widespread in savanna and woodland habitats from central Tanzania into the densely forested areas. Status: Uncommon, with individuals moving over large areas; frequently
arid north of Kenya. Status: Uncommon; nocturnal but occasionally seen at dawn and dusk. seen in national parks.
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Leopards are heard more
often than seen; their
LEOPARD AFRICAN WILD CAT African wild cats subsist
mainly on small rodents,
Panthera pardus Felis lybica
rasping territorial call but also prey on birds and
Supreme ambush hunters, leop- The progenitor of the household
sounds very much like insects, and species up to
ards stalk close to their prey be- tabby, African wild cats were origin-
a saw cutting through the size of hares.
fore attacking in an explosive rush. ally domesticated by the Egyptians. PHOTO BY ABI
wood.
PHOTO BY MITCH REARDON
They eat everything from insects They differ from domestic cats in
to zebras, but antelopes are their having reddish backs to their ears,
primary prey. Leopards are highly proportionally longer legs and a
agile and climb well, spending generally leaner appearance. Af-
more time in trees than other big rican wild cats cross freely with
cats – they hoist their kills into domestic cats close to human habi-
trees to avoid losing them to lions and hyenas. They are solitary ani- tation where the two meet, and this is probably the greatest threat to
mals, except when a male and female remain in close association for the the integrity of the wild species. They are solitary, except when females
female’s week-long oestrus. have kittens.
Size: Shoulder height 50cm to 75cm; length 1.6m to 2.1m, including 70cm to 1.1m tail; weight Size: Shoulder height 35cm; length 85cm to 1m; mass up to 6kg. Distribution: Throughout the
up to 90kg; male larger than female. Distribution: Widely spread throughout the region, they region. Status: Common; nocturnal, although sometimes spotted at dawn and dusk.
also persist in human-altered habitat due to their great adaptability. Status: Common but, being
mainly nocturnal, they are very difficult to see. SERVAL Servals are rodent
specialists, feeding on
Felis serval
Young male lions are
ousted from the pride
LION The first impression one gains of mice, rats and spring-
hares.
Panthera leo servals – tall, slender, long-legged PHOTO BY MITCH REARDON
at the age of two or
Lions spend nights hunting, patrol- cats – is that they look quite like
three, becoming nomadic
ling territories (of 50 to 400 sq km) small cheetahs. Their tawny to
until around five years
and playing. They live in prides of russet-yellow coat has large black
old, when they are able
up to about 30, comprising four to spots, forming long bars and
to take over their own
12 related females, which remain blotches on the neck and shoul-
pride.
PHOTO BY ALEX DISSANAYAKE
in the pride for life, and a coalition ders. All-black individuals also
of unrelated males, which defend occasionally occur particularly in
females from foreign males. Lions Kenya’s mountainous regions. Other distinguishing features of the
hunt – certainly as a group, perhaps serval include large upright ears, a long neck and a relatively short tail.
cooperatively – virtually anything, but wildebeests, zebras and buffaloes Servals are associated with vegetation near water, and are most com-
are their main targets. mon in flood-plain savanna, wetlands and woodlands near streams.
Size: Shoulder height 1.2m; length 2.5m to 3m, including tail up to 1m; weight up to 260kg Birds, small reptiles and occasionally the young of small antelopes are
(male), 180kg (female). Distribution: Largely confined to protected areas and present in all also taken.
savanna and woodland parks in the region. Status: Common where they occur; mainly nocturnal Size: Shoulder height 60cm; length up to 1.3m, including tail up to 30cm; weight up to 16kg.
but easy to see during the day. Distribution: Well-watered habitats throughout the region. Status: Relatively common, but
mainly nocturnal, sometimes seen in the early morning and late afternoon.
Caracals’ long back legs
CARACAL
power prodigious leaps –
they even take birds
Felis caracal BAT-EARED FOX The huge ears of
bat-eared foxes detect
Sometimes called African lynxes Otocyon megalotis
in flight. the faint sounds of
PHOTO BY DAVID WALL
due to their long, tufted ears, cara- These little foxes eat mainly in-
invertebrates below
cals are robust, powerful cats that sects, especially termites, but also
ground, before they
prey mostly on small antelopes, wild fruit and small vertebrates.
unearth them in a burst
birds and rodents but also take They are monogamous, and are
of frantic digging.
prey much larger than themselves. often seen in groups comprising PHOTO BY ARIADNE VAN
ZANDBERGEN
Caracals are largely solitary and, a mated pair and offspring. Natu-
although male-female pairs may ral enemies include large birds of
associate more than most other prey, spotted hyenas, caracals and
cats, females raise their one to three kittens alone. The sandy body col- larger cats. They will bravely at-
our is excellent camouflage, but the ears and face are strikingly patterned tempt to rescue a family member caught by a predator by using dis-
in black and white and are highly mobile and expressive – features are traction techniques and harassment, which extends to nipping larger
used for visual signalling. enemies on the ankles.
Size: Shoulder height 40cm to 50cm; length 95cm to 1.2m, including tail up to 30cm; weight 7kg Size: Shoulder height 35cm; length 75cm to 90cm, including 30cm tail; weight 3kg to 5kg.
to 18kg; male slightly larger than female. Distribution: Throughout the region. Status: Fairly Distribution: Throughout the region. Status: Common, especially in national parks; mainly
common, but largely nocturnal and difficult to see. nocturnal but often seen in the late afternoon and early morning.
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Jackals scavenge from
the kills of larger
JACKAL UNGULATES
Golden jackal (Canis aureus);
predators, but are also
black-backed jackal (C. mes-
efficient hunters.
PHOTO BY DENNIS JONES
omelas, pictured); side-striped AFRICAN ELEPHANT Bull elephants live alone
or in bachelor groups,
jackal (C. adustus) Loxodonta africana
joining herds when
Golden jackals are often the most Elephants usually live in groups of
females are in season.
numerous carnivores in open sa- 10 to 20 females and their young, PHOTO BY ARIADNE VAN
ZANDBERGEN
vanna and are very active by day. congregating in larger herds at
Black-backed jackals have a mantle common water and food resources.
of silver-grey hair and black-tipped Vocalisations include a deep rumble
tails; they are the most common felt as a low vibration, and a high-
night scavengers. Side-striped jackals are the least common. They’re pitched trumpeting given in threat
grey with a light stripe along each side and a white-tipped tail. All have or when frightened. Consuming
a similar social and feeding behaviour. Pairs are long-lasting and defend 250kg of vegetation daily, elephants can decimate woodlands, but this may
small territories. be part of the savanna’s natural cycle. They live for up to 100 years.
Size: Shoulder height 38cm to 50cm; length 95cm to 1.2m, including 25cm to 40cm tail (shortest Size: Shoulder height up to 4m (male), 3.5m (female); weight 5 to 6.5 tonnes (male), 3 to
in the golden jackal); weight up to 15kg. Distribution: Widespread with a wide habitat tolerance, 3.5 tonnes (female). Distribution: Widely distributed in the region, though large populations
preferring open plains and woodlands; side-striped jackal most abundant in well-watered wooded only occur in protected areas. Status: Very common in most of the larger national parks.
areas. Status: Abundant in parks and settled areas.
HYRAX If accustomed to humans,
Wild dogs are endurance
hunters; the pack chases
WILD DOG Rock hyrax (Procavia capensis, hyraxes are often
approachable but will
Lycaon pictus pictured); tree hyrax (Dendro-
prey until exhaustion, dash off if alarmed,
Wild dogs’ blotched black, yellow hyrax arboreus); yellow-spotted
then cooperates to pull uttering shrill screams.
and white coat, and their large, or bush hyrax (Heterohyrax brucei) PHOTO BY ARIADNE VAN
it down. ZANDBERGEN
PHOTO BY ARIADNE VAN
round ears, are unmistakable. They Although hyraxes resemble large,
ZANDBERGEN
live in packs of up to 40, though robust guinea-pigs, they are most
usually 12 to 20. They are widely re- closely related to elephants. Three
viled for eating their prey alive, but species occur, the most common
this is probably as fast as ‘cleaner’ being the rock hyrax found on
methods used by other carnivores. mountains or rocky outcrops. They form colonies of up to 60, often with
Mid-sized antelopes are their pre- the yellow-spotted hyrax, which is slightly smaller with distinctive white
ferred prey, but wild dogs can take animals as large as buffaloes. They re- underparts. Kopjes (rock outcrops) in the Serengeti are excellent sites for
quire enormous areas of habitat and they are among the most endangered observing the two species. The tree hyrax prefers forest rather than rocks.
carnivores in Africa. Size: Length 60cm; mass up to 5.5kg. Distribution: Bush and rock species very widely distributed;
Size: Shoulder height 65cm to 80cm; length 1m to 1.5m, including 35cm tail; weight 20kg to tree hyraxes restricted to lowland rainforest and best seen in forest reserves, such as Aberdare, Mt
35kg. Distribution: Much reduced, now restricted to the largest protected areas in the region. Kenya and the Rwenzoris. Status: Common; a regular inhabitant of lodges, where they become tame.
Status: Highly threatened: numbers reduced by persecution, disease and habitat loss.
BLACK (HOOK-LIPPED)
HONEY BADGER (RATEL) RHINOCEROS Poaching for horns has
made the rhinoceros
Mellivora capensis Diceros bicornis
Africa’s most endangered
Pugnacious and astonishingly pow- In many countries rhinos have been
large mammal.
‘THIS IMAGE erful for their size, honey badgers exterminated and the white rhino PHOTO BY JASON EDWARDS
have a fascinating relationship with (Ceratotherium simum) is now very
NOT AVAILABLE honey guide birds. Honey guides rare in East Africa (it remains nu-
IN PICK & MIX’ lead them to bees’ nests, which merous in southern Africa). The
honey badgers rip open for honey, smaller of the two species, black
and in doing so provide honey rhinos are more unpredictable and
guides access to their favoured food – prone to charging when alarmed or
beeswax. Honey badgers are om- uncertain about a possible threat. They use their pointed, prehensile upper
nivorous, feeding on small animals, carrion, berries, roots, eggs, honey, lip to feed selectively on branches and foliage. Black rhinos are solitary and
and social insects (ants, termites and bees) and their larvae. Honey aggressively territorial, usually only socialising during the mating season;
badgers are best viewed in parks, where they sometimes scavenge from bins. however, they may form temporary associations.
Size: Shoulder height 30cm; length 95cm, including 20cm tail; weight up to 15kg. Distribution: Size: Shoulder height 1.6m; length 3m to 4m; weight 800kg to 1.4 tonnes; front horn up to 1.3m
Widespread in the region, in most habitats. Status: Generally occurs in low densities, but popula- long. Distribution: Restricted to relict populations in a few reserves. Status: Highly endangered
tions are sustainable; apparently active by day in parks but nocturnal in areas of human habitation. in the region, but seen in protected areas.
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Stallions may hold a
harem for 15 years but
ZEBRA GIRAFFE A giraffe’s neck has seven
cervical vertebrae – the
Common or Burchell’s zebra Giraffa camelopardalis
single mares are often same as all mammals.
(Equus burchelli, pictured); There are several distinctly pat- PHOTO BY MAT T FLETCHER
lost to younger males.
PHOTO BY JASON EDWARDS
Grevy’s zebra (Equus grevyi) terned subspecies of giraffe, includ-
Two species occur in the region, ing reticulated giraffes and Masai
the most common being Burchell’s giraffes, which are more common.
zebra, famous for its huge migrating The ‘horns’ (knobs of skin-covered
herds. Burchell’s zebras are marked bone) of males have bald tips; fe-
with broad alternating black-and- males’ are covered in hair. Giraffes
white stripes, interspersed with faint form loose, ever-changing groups
‘shadow stripes’. Grevy’s zebras are of up to 50; females are rarely seen
marked all over with much finer stripes and lack shadow stripes. Both alone, while males are more solitary. Browsers, giraffes exploit foliage out
species are grazers, but occasionally browse on leaves and scrub. The of reach of most herbivores – males usually feed from a higher level than
social system centres around small groups of related mares over which females. Juveniles are prone to predation and lions even take adults; giraffes
stallions fight fiercely. are most vulnerable when drinking.
Size: Shoulder height 1.4m (Burchell’s zebras), 1.6m (Grevy’s). Mass up to 360kg (Burchell’s), up Size: Height 4m to 5.5m (male), 3.5m to 4.5m (female); weight 900kg to 1.4 tonnes (male), 700kg
to 390kg (Grevy’s). Distribution: Burchell’s zebras occur throughout the region. Grevy’s zebras to 1 tonne (female). Distribution: Reticulated giraffe occurs in northern Kenya; Masai giraffe
restricted to northern Kenya. Status: Burchell’s zebras common. Grevy’s zebras only common in is widespread southwest of Nairobi extending into Tanzania; Rothschild’s giraffe is restricted to
Kenya’s northern frontier district. Uganda and western Kenya near Lake Baringo. Status: Relatively common and easy to see.
Female warthogs have a
pair of distinctive facial
WARTHOG KLIPSPRINGER When disturbed, a pair of
klipspringers often gives
Phacochoerus aethiopicus Oreotragus oreotragus
warts under the eyes; a duet of trumpetlike
Warthogs are abundant in all sa- Small, sturdy antelopes, klip-
males have a second set alarm calls.
vanna and woodland habitats in springers are easily recognised by PHOTO BY ARIADNE VAN
of warts further down ZANDBERGEN
East Africa. They grow two sets their curious tip-toe stance – their
the snout.
PHOTO BY ANDREW MACCOLL
of tusks: their upper tusks grow hooves are adapted for balance
as long as 60cm, and their lower and grip on rocky surfaces, ena-
tusks are usually less than 15cm bling them to bound up impos-
long. Sociality varies, but groups sibly rough and steep rockfaces.
usually consist of one to three sows Klipspringers normally inhabit
and their young. Males form bach- rocky outcrops; they also some-
elor groups or are solitary, only associating with females during oestrus. times venture into adjacent grasslands, but always retreat to the rocks
Warthogs feed mainly on grass, but also on fruit and bark. In hard times when alarmed. Klipspringers form long-lasting pair bonds and the pair
they grub for roots and bulbs. They den in abandoned burrows or exca- occupies a territory, nearly always remaining within a couple of metres
vate their own burrows. of each other.
Size: Shoulder height 70cm; weight up to more than 100kg, but averages 50kg to 60kg; male larger Size: Shoulder height 55cm; weight 9kg to 15kg; horns up to 15cm; female larger than male.
than female. Distribution: Throughout the region. Status: Common, diurnal and easy to see. Distribution: Rocky outcrops and mountainous areas throughout the region. Status: Common,
but wary; often seen standing on high vantage points.
Adult bull hippos
HIPPOPOTAMUS
aggressively defend
territories against each
Hippopotamus amphibius KIRK’S DIK-DIK A dik-dik’s territory is
marked by up to a dozen
Hippos are found close to fresh Madoqua kirkii
other and most males large piles of dung placed
water, spending most of the day Dik-diks are identified by their mini-
bear the scars of conflicts. around the boundary.
PHOTO BY ARIADNE VAN
submerged and emerging at night ature size, the pointed flexible snout PHOTO BY ARIADNE VAN
ZANDBERGEN ZANDBERGEN
to graze on land. They can con- and a tuft of hair on the forehead;
sume about 40kg of vegetation each only the males have horns. Dik-diks
evening. They live in large herds, are monogamous and pairs are ter-
tolerating close contact in the water ritorial. If one is seen, its mate is
but foraging alone when on land. usually nearby, as well as that year’s
The scars found on bulls resulting young. Both members of the pair,
from conflicts are often a convenient indicator of the sex of hippos. Cows and their young, use dung piles to
with calves are aggressive towards other individuals. Hippos are extremely mark their territory, placing their deposits as part of an elaborate ceremony.
dangerous when on land and kill many people each year, usually when Dik-diks feed by browsing on foliage and, being well adapted to their dry
someone inadvertently blocks the animal’s retreat to the water. environments, don’t drink.
Size: Shoulder height 1.5m; weight 1 to 2 tonnes. Distribution: Occur widely, usually found near Size: Shoulder height 35cm to 45cm; weight 4kg to 7kg; horns up to 12cm. Distribution:
large areas of fresh water. Status: Common in major water courses and easy to see. Throughout the region. Status: Common, but wary and easy to miss; active day and night.
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If a predator approaches,
steenboks lie flat with
STEENBOK BLUE WILDEBEEST Blue wildebeests are
gregarious, and in some
Raphicerus campestris Connochaetes taurinus
neck outstretched, areas form herds of up to
Steenboks are pretty and slender Blue wildebeests often form herds
zigzagging away only at tens of thousands.
antelopes; their back and hind- in association with zebras and other PHOTO BY ANDREW VAN
the last moment. SMEERDIJK
PHOTO BY MITCH REARDON
quarters range from light reddish- herbivores. Wildebeests are grazers,
brown to dark brown with pale and move constantly in search of
underpart markings. The nose bears good pasture and water, preferring
a black, wedge-shaped stripe. Males to drink daily – this gives rise to
have small, straight and widely sep- the famous mass migration in the
arated horns. Although usually seen Serengeti–Masai Mara ecosystem.
alone, it’s likely that steenboks share Elsewhere, especially where food
a small territory with a mate, but only occasionally does the pair come and water are more permanent, groups of up to 30 are more usual, with
together. Steenboks are active in the morning and afternoon and by night; larger congregations being less frequent. In both situations, males are ter-
they may become more nocturnal where frequently disturbed. ritorial and attempt to herd groups of females into their territory.
Size: Shoulder height 50cm; weight up to 16kg; horns up to 19cm; female a little larger than Size: Shoulder height 1.4m; weight 200kg to 300kg (males), 140kg to 230kg (females); horns up
male. Distribution: Restricted to central and northern Kenya into Tanzania. Status: Relatively to 85cm; male larger than female. Distribution: Widely distributed. Status: Very common;
common, but easily overlooked. 1.5 million occur in the Serengeti–Masai Mara ecosystem.
Often dismissed by
tourists because they are
IMPALA HARTEBEEST Hartebeests prefer grassy
plains but are also found
Aepyceros melampus Alcelaphus buselaphus
so abundant, impalas are in sparsely forested
Male impalas have long, lyre-shaped Hartebeests are red to tan in colour,
unique antelopes with no savannas and hills.
horns averaging 75cm in length. medium-sized, and easily recog- PHOTO BY ARIADNE VAN
close relatives. ZANDBERGEN
PHOTO BY DENNIS JONES
They are gregarious animals, form- nised by their long, narrow face and
ing resident herds of up to 100 or so. short horns. In both sexes, the dis-
Males defend female herds during tinctively angular and heavily ridged
the oestrus, but outside the breed- horns form a heart shape, hence
ing season they congregate in bach- their name, which comes from Af-
elor groups. Impalas are known for rikaans. Dominant males defend
their speed and ability to leap – they territories, which herds of females
can spring as far as 10m in one bound, or 3m into the air. They are the and their young pass through; other males move in bachelor groups. Herds
common prey of lions, leopards, cheetahs, wild dogs and spotted hyenas. typically number up to about a dozen (male herds are generally smaller), but
Size: Shoulder height 85cm; weight 40kg to 80kg; horns up to 90cm; male larger than female. aggregations of hundreds and (in the past) thousands also occur.
Distribution: Savanna regions from central Kenya extending south into Tanzania. Status: Very Size: Shoulder height 1.2m; weight 130kg to 170kg (males), 115kg to 150kg (females); horns up
common and easy to see. to 85cm. Distribution: Wide ranging; Coke’s hartebeest, also known as ‘Kongoni’, is common in
southern Kenya and northern Tanzania; Jackson’s hartebeest is confined to areas near Lake Victoria.
Gazelles are often the
main prey of predators –
GAZELLE Status: Common.
Gerenuk (Litocranius walleri);
so they are very fleet of
foot and wary of attack.
Grant’s gazelle (Gazella granti); TOPI Topis’ horns, carried by
both sexes, curve gently
PHOTO BY ARIADNE VAN
Thomson’s gazelle (G. thomso- Damaliscus lunatus
ZANDBERGEN up, out and back.
nii, pictured) Topis are reddish brown, with glossy PHOTO BY TONY WHEELER
Often the most common medium- violet patches on the legs and face.
sized antelope where they occur, Their social system is highly vari-
gazelles form the main prey item able. In grassy woodlands, males
of many predators in East Africa. hold territories with harems of up
Three species are common in the to 10 females. On floodplains with
region. Thomson’s gazelle is the dense populations, nomadic herds
smallest. It is often found in with the impala-sized Grant’s gazelle, which of thousands may form, males es-
lacks the ‘Thommy’s’ black side stripe. The gerenuk has uniquely long tablishing temporary territories
limbs and neck, allowing it to reach otherwise inaccessible parts of trees. whenever the herd halts. Elsewhere, males gather on breeding-season
All three species are sociable, but the gerenuk forms small herds rarely display grounds; females visit these ‘leks’ to select their mates. Both sexes
numbering more than 12. often stand on high vantage points (commonly termite mounds) to view
Size: Shoulder height 90cm (Grant’s), 70cm (Thomson’s), 1.05m (gerenuk). Mass 65kg (Grant’s), their surroundings and as territorial advertisement.
29kg (Thomson’s), 45kg (gerenuk). Distribution: Grant’s/Thomson’s common in savanna and Size: Shoulder height 1.2m; weight 110kg to 150kg (male), 75kg to 130kg (female); horns up
woodland; gerenuks from northwestern Tanzania through central Kenya. Status: Grant’s/ to 45cm. Distribution: Widespread throughout medium-length grasslands, abundant in the
Thomson’s common; gerenuk less so. Serengeti ecosystem. Status: Common.
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The sable is a fierce
fighter and there are
SABLE ANTELOPE ELAND Aggregations up to 1000
elands form where new
Hippotragus niger Taurotragus oryx
occasional records of grass is growing.
Sables are often considered the most Africa’s largest antelope, elands are PHOTO BY MITCH REARDON
males killing lions when
magnificent of Africa’s antelopes. massive. The horns of both sexes
attacked.
PHOTO BY ARIADNE VAN
Their colouring is dark-brown to average 65cm, spiralling at the base
ZANDBERGEN
black, with white bellies and face then sweeping straight back. The
markings; the males’ coats are a male has a distinctive hairy tuft on
rich glossy black when adult. Both the head, and stouter horns. Herds
sexes have long sweeping horns, consist of adults, or adults and
but those of the male are longer and young, or sometimes just young –
more curved. Sables feed mainly on group membership and composi-
grass, but foliage accounts for around 10% of their diet. Females and the tion change often. The most common large groups consist of 10 to 60
young live in herds, while males are territorial or form bachelor groups. females and young. Males are less gregarious, coming together more
Other predators include leopards, hyenas and wild dogs. sporadically and in smaller numbers, but one or more often join female-
Size: Shoulder height 1.35m; mass up to 270kg. Distribution: In East Africa, restricted to and-young herds.
southeastern Kenya and Tanzania. Status: Uncommon; in Kenya, they occur only in Shimba Hills Size: Shoulder height 1.5m to 1.8m (male), 1.25m to 1.5m (female); weight 450kg to 950kg
National Reserve. They are more widely distributed in Tanzania. (male), 300kg to 500kg (female); horns up to 100cm long. Distribution: Patchy distribution
in arid zones; best seen in Nairobi and Tsavo National Parks. Status: Low density, but relatively
To conserve water,
oryxes let their body
ORYX common and easy to see.
Oryx gazella
temperature rise to levels
that would kill most
Adapted for arid zones, oryxes can WATERBUCK The waterbuck’s oily
hair has a strong, musky
tolerate areas uninhabitable for Kobus ellipsiprymnus
mammals. odour, potent enough for
PHOTO BY MAT T FLETCHER
most antelopes. Two races occur in Waterbucks have a shaggy brown
humans to smell.
the region: beisa oryxes (O. g. beisa) coat and white rump, face and PHOTO BY ANDERS BLOMQVIST
of northern Kenya; and the slightly throat markings; only males have
smaller fringe-eared oryxes (O. g cal- horns. Females have overlapping
lotis) of southern Kenya and north- ranges, coming and going to form
ern Tanzania. Oryxes are solid and loose associations of normally up
powerful animals with long, straight to a dozen animals. Young, non-
horns, which are present in both sexes. Oryxes are principally grazers but territorial males behave similarly.
also browse on thorny shrubs unpalatable to many species. They can survive Mature males hold territories, onto
for long periods without water. Herds vary from five to 40 individuals. which females wander (nonterritorial males are also often allowed access).
Size: Shoulder height 1.5m; mass up to 300kg. Distribution: Northern Kenya (beisa oryxes); These essentially independent movements sometimes produce herds of
southern Kenya and northern Tanzania (fringe-eared oryxes). Status: Relatively common where 50 to 70. They always stay near water and are good swimmers, readily
they occur, and easy to see. They are, however, often shy, and flee from humans at great distances. entering water to escape predators.
Size: Shoulder height 1.3m; weight 200kg to 300kg (males), 150kg to 200kg (females); horns up
Strong jumpers, kudus
flee with frequent
KUDU to 1m. Distribution: Wet areas throughout the region. Status: Common and easily seen.
Greater kudu (Tragelaphus
leaping, clearing
obstacles more than
strepsiceros, pictured); lesser AFRICAN BUFFALO Male buffaloes associate
with the females during
kudu (T. imberbis) Syncerus caffer
2m high. breeding, and at other
PHOTO BY MITCH REARDON
Greater kudus are Africa’s second- Both sexes of African buffaloes
times they form male
tallest antelope; males carry mas- have distinctive curving horns that
herds or are solitary.
sive spiralling horns (the largest of broaden at the base to meet over PHOTO BY DAVID WALL
any antelope). They are light grey in the forehead in a massive ‘boss’ –
colour, with six to 12 white stripes the female’s are usually smaller.
down the sides. Lesser kudus have Local populations of buffaloes
11 to 15 stripes; males are blue-grey inhabit large home ranges and at
and females are a bright rust colour. In both species, one to three females times herds of thousands form, but
and their young form groups, and are joined by males during the breed- the population’s social organisation
ing season. Kudus are browsers, finding their diet in woodland-savanna is fluid: groups of related females and their young coalesce and separate
with fairly dense bush cover. into larger or smaller herds. Although generally docile, buffaloes can
Size: Greater kudu shoulder height 1.2m to 1.5m; weight 190kg to 320kg. Lesser kudu shoulder be dangerous – especially lone bulls, and females protecting their young.
height 95cm to 1.1m; weight 90kg to 110kg. Males larger than females. Distribution: Greater Size: Shoulder height 1.6m; weight 400kg to 900kg; horns up to 1.25m long; female somewhat
kudus can be found throughout the region, except in the driest areas; lesser kudus prefer the arid smaller than male. Distribution: Widespread, but large populations only occur in parks. Status:
regions of Tanzania and northern Kenya. Status: Greater kudus scattered; lesser kudus common. Common and may be approachable where protected.
72 W I L D L I F E G U I D E • • R o d e n t s www.lonelyplanet.com
AARDVARK
Orycteropus afer
Vaguely piglike (its Afrikaans name
‘THIS IMAGE translates as ‘earth-pig’) with a long
NOT AVAILABLE tubular snout, powerful kangaroo-
like tail and large rabbitlike ears,
IN PICK & MIX’ the aardvark is unique and has no
close relatives. Protected by thick
wrinkled pink-grey skin, aardvarks
forage at night by sniffing for ter-
mite and ant nests, which they rip
open with their astonishingly powerful front legs and large spadelike nails.
Normally nocturnal, they occasionally spend cold winter mornings basking
in the sun before retiring underground.
Size: Shoulder height 60cm; length 1.4m to 1.8m, including a 55cm tail; weight 40kg to 80kg.
Distribution: Widely distributed throughout nearly the entire region. Status: Uncommon;
nocturnal and rarely seen.
RODENTS
If attacked, a porcupine
drives its rump into the
PORCUPINE
Hystrix africaeaustralis
predator – the quills are
The Cape porcupine is the largest
easily detached from
rodent native to Southern Africa.
their owner, but can
Its spread of long black-and-white
remain embedded in the
banded quills from the shoulders
victim, causing serious
to the tail makes it unmistakable.
injury or death.
PHOTO BY DAVE HAMMAN
For shelter, it either occupies caves
or excavates its own burrows. The
porcupine’s diet consists mainly of
bark, tubers, seeds, and a variety
of plant and ground-level foliage. The young are born during the hot
summer months, in litters of between one and four.
Size: Length 70cm to 1m, including a 15cm tail; weight 10kg to 25kg. Distribution: Throughout
the region. Status: Nocturnal but occasionally active on cooler days; difficult to see.
SPRINGHARE
Pedetes capensis
In spite of its name and large ears,
‘THIS IMAGE the springhare is not a hare but a
very unusual rodent with no close
NOT AVAILABLE relatives. With its powerful, out-
IN PICK & MIX’ sized hind feet and small forelegs,
it most resembles a small kanga-
roo and shares a similar energy-
efficient hopping motion. The
springhare digs extensive bur-
rows, from which it emerges at night to feed on grass and grass roots.
Reflections of spotlights in its large, bright eyes often give it away on
night safaris.
Size: Length 80cm, including a 40cm tail; weight 3kg to 4kg. Distribution: Widespread in Kenya
southwards into mid-Tanzania; favours grassland habitats with sandy soils. Status: Common, but
strictly nocturnal.
83
Safaris
The hoof beats of thousands of wildebeests echoing across the Serengeti
Plains; vast, open vistas broken only by the occasional stand of acacia
thorn trees; a pink haze of flamingos wading in the shallows – these are
likely to be among the most indelible images that you will take back from
an East African safari. The chance to observe wildlife in its natural sur-
roundings is one of the region’s top attractions, and the safari industry
here is highly developed.
Because the industry has become so competitive, especially in Tanzania
and Kenya, it’s worth putting extra time into planning. This is especially so
at the budget level, where there’s often only a fine line between operators
running no-frills but reliable safaris and those that are either dishonest,
or who have cut things so close that problems are bound to arise. At the
higher end of the price spectrum, ambience, safari style and the operator’s
overall focus are important considerations.
This chapter provides an overview of factors to consider when plan-
ning a safari; many apply in equal measure to organised treks. See p89 for
a few things to keep in mind if you’re arranging things on your own.
PLANNING A SAFARI
Booking
If you’re on a shoestring budget, or don’t want to be pinned down with
specific dates, the best thing to do is to wait until you get to East Africa,
shop around at various operators to see what’s on offer and then arrange
things on the spot. This gives you the advantages of being able to hunt for For an armchair preview
lower walk-in rates, maintain flexibility, and meet up with other travellers of East Africa’s major
to form a group and thereby lower costs. Being on-site also gives you a parks, check out www
better feel for what you’ll be getting. One of the disadvantages is that .tanzaniaparks.com
during the high season you may need to wait around several days before (Tanzania), www.kws
an opening arises or vehicles become free. During the low season, it can .org (Kenya) and www
take a while to find a large enough group; four is the minimum for many .uwa.or.ug/parks.html
budget companies. Another disadvantage is having to deal with safari (Uganda).
touts. Although they’re not all bad, many are quite aggressive, and the
whole experience can be rather intimidating. If you wait until arriving in
East Africa to book, keep your schedule flexible, allow some extra days
to arrange things, and don’t rush into any deals.
The other option is to book your safari or trek directly through the
operator before arriving in the region. These days most midrange and
top-end safaris are prebooked, as are some budget safaris. The main
drawback of prebooking is that it decreases flexibility, especially if you’re
doing your safari as part of longer travels in the region. It also can be
more expensive, although if you shop around and can take advantage of
last-minute offers, it’s possible to find some good deals, and many op-
erators now offer prebooked trips at around the same price as walk-ins.
Among the advantages of prebooking are that you won’t need to spend
time on the ground shopping around for an operator (which takes at least
a day), it minimises the amount of cash or travellers cheques that you’ll
need to carry and you’ll have someone to sort out the logistics for you.
If you’re travelling on your own and hoping to find other travellers to
join, you can still consider prebooking, as some companies will permit
you to adjust your booking on arrival, though you should confirm this
in advance.
84 S A FA R I S • • P l a n n i n g a S a f a r i www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com S A FA R I S • • P l a n n i n g a S a f a r i 85
In addition to prebooking with locally based companies such as most BUDGET
of those listed in this chapter, you can prebook through tour operators in The goal of keeping costs to a minimum on budget safaris is achieved
Europe, the USA, Australia and elsewhere; a small sampling is listed on by camping or staying in basic guesthouses, working with comparatively
p635. This, however, will be considerably more expensive as most will sub- large group sizes to minimise per-head transport costs, and keeping to a
contract to local operators. It’s almost always cheaper to deal directly with no-frills setup with basic meals and minimal staff. In some areas the camp
the operating company; if all or part of your itinerary is subcontracted, sites may be outside park boundaries to save on park entry fees and com-
the commissions will be reflected in the prices you pay. paratively high fees for park camping grounds – though this means you’ll Check out www
If you’re going to prebook, the general rule is to do so as far in advance lose time in prime morning and evening wildlife-viewing hours shuttling .eawildlife.org for an
as possible, especially if you’ll be travelling in popular areas during the to and from the park. Also, for most safaris at the budget level as well as excellent introduction to
July/August and December/January high seasons. for many in the midrange, there are kilometre limits placed on how far the conservation efforts in
vehicle drives each day, though operators seldom publicise this. East Africa.
Costs The bare minimum for a budget camping safari in Kenya is about US$65
There are essentially two types of organised safaris: those where you to US$80 per person per day. In Tanzania, expect to pay from US$85
camp, and those where you stay in lodges or luxury tented camps. (For to US$100. Genuine budget camping safaris are few and far between in
explanations of tented and fly camps, see p618.) Camping safaris are the Uganda. Throughout the region, it’s often possible to find discounts dur-
least expensive option. Most cater to shoestring travellers, the young (or ing the low season.
young at heart) and those who are prepared to put up with a little discom-
fort and who don’t mind helping to pitch the tents and set up camp. But, MIDRANGE
East Africa boasts an if you plan things right, they offer the chance for an authentic adventure Most midrange safaris use lodges, where you’ll have a comfortable room
impressive collection in the African bush, often with nothing between you and the animals at and eat in a restaurant. In general, you can expect reliability and reasonably
of Unesco biosphere night except a sheet of canvas and the embers of a dying fire. good value in this category. A disadvantage is that the safaris may have a
reserves, modelling Safaris based in lodges or luxury tented camps cost more than camping package-tour atmosphere, although this can be minimised by carefully se-
the successful fusion of safaris, with the price usually directly proportional to the quality of the ac- lecting a safari company and accommodation, and giving attention to who
conservation, develop- commodation and staff, and the amount of individualised attention you’ll and how many other people you travel with. In both Kenya and Tanzania,
ment and research get. Some upscale lodges and tented camps quote ‘all-inclusive’ prices, expect to pay from a minimum of about US$130 to US$140 per person per
initiatives. See www which in addition to accommodation, full board and occasionally park fees day for a midrange lodge safari, although most will start at about US$160
.unesco.org/mab as well, normally include two ‘activities’ (usually wildlife drives, or some- or higher. Particularly in Tanzania, good deals are available at some of the
/brlistAfr.htm for a times one wildlife drive and one walk per day, each lasting about two to lodges during the low season, so it’s always worth asking about these. In
full listing. three hours). A few quote accommodation-only prices, which means you’ll Uganda, plan on anywhere from US$150 to US$250 per day.
need to pay extra to go out from the lodge and actually look for wildlife.
When comparing prices, check to see what’s included. Relevant items TOP END
here are park entrance fees, camping fees and accommodation costs, Top-end safaris use private lodges or luxury tented camps, and some-
transport and fuel, number of meals per day, tent rental, and wildlife times private fly camps. For the price you will pay – from US$200 up to
drives or walks. Drinks are almost always excluded, except at the highest
price level. Budget safari prices also normally exclude sleeping-bag rental,
which costs anywhere from US$5 per day to US$15 per trip. TANZANIA VS KENYA
If you’re booking a group safari, find out how many people will be If you’re heading to East Africa to see wildlife, and are trying to decide whether to go on safari in
sharing the vehicle with you (the larger your group, the cheaper the per Kenya or in Tanzania, the best answer is to do both and compare things for yourself. Assuming this
person cost), and how many people per tent or room. The norm is two, isn’t possible, it depends what you’re after. Budget camping safaris are almost always cheaper in
and most operators charge a supplement for single occupancy ranging Kenya than in Tanzania, although for midrange safaris you can often find good deals in Tanzania.
from 20% to 50% of the shared-occupancy rate. Prices quoted in this Kenya also tends to be somewhat less expensive generally, as a travel destination.
chapter are based on the cost per person for shared occupancy. Apart from that, each country has its fans. Many connoisseurs say that the scenery and abun-
You’ll also need to factor in tips, which are commonly given to drivers, dance of wildlife is better in Tanzania, while old Kenya hands would argue these points vehemently.
guides and porters assuming service has been good. You can use 10% Another difference is that in Tanzania, you’re required to stick to designated roadways in most
of the overall cost of your safari as a rough guide. Depending on where areas, which isn’t the case in Kenya, much to the detriment of local ecosystems. If you’re not a
you are, for camping safaris this averages from about US$8 to US$10 per fan of large urban areas, another consideration may be that for an organised safari in Kenya, you’ll
day per group for the driver-guide/cook, more for upscale safaris, large likely need to at least spend a day in Nairobi (enough to send some people running for Tanzania).
groups or an especially good job. Another way to calculate things is to In Kenya, however, the road network and infrastructure are better, and getting acclimatised is
give an additional day’s wage for every five days worked, with a similar somewhat easier, making it perhaps a ‘softer’ introduction if it’s your first time in Africa.
proportion for a shorter trip, and a higher than average tip for excep- The list of comparisons could go on, but in the end, it’s all beautiful. The animals don’t know
tional service. Wages in East Africa are low, and if someone has made a which country they’re in, and having a reliable, competent operator, a good guide and enjoy-
special effort to make your trip memorable, you should be generous. able travelling companions are just as important to your overall experience as the destination.
Kenya is the cheapest place in the region for safaris. In Uganda, most And, if you can’t decide between the two, there’s always Uganda, where you’ll have striking
companies rely heavily on pricier lodge and hotel accommodation, and surroundings and many areas to yourself.
even where camping is involved it’s usually the luxury tented variety.
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US$500 or more per person per day – expect a full range of amenities.
Even in remote settings you can enjoy hot bush-style showers, comfort- SAFARI STYLE
able beds and fine dining. Also expect a high level of personalised atten- While price can be a major determining factor in safari planning, there are other considerations
tion, expert guides, an often intimate atmosphere (many places at this that are just as important:
level have fewer than 20 beds), and emphasis on achieving an ‘authentic’ Ambience – will you be staying in or near the park? (If you stay well outside the park, you’ll
bush experience. miss the good early morning and evening wildlife-viewing hours.) Are the surroundings
atmospheric? Will you be in a large lodge or an intimate private camp?
When to Go
Equipment – mediocre vehicles and equipment can significantly detract from the overall
Throughout East Africa, getting around is easier in the dry season from
late June to October, and in many parks this is when animals are easier experience (and on mountain treks, inadequate equipment can mean the difference between
to find around water holes and rivers. Foliage is also less dense, making reaching the summit or not, or worse).
The Kingdon Field Guide it easier to spot wildlife. However, as the dry season corresponds in part Access and Activities – if you don’t relish the idea of hours in a 4WD on bumpy roads,
to African Mammals with the high-travel season, lodges and camps get crowded and accom- consider parks and lodges where you can fly in. Parks and reserves where walking and boat
by Jonathan Kingdon modation prices are often at a premium. safaris are possible are the best bet for getting out of the vehicle and into the bush.
makes a wonderful Apart from these general considerations, the ideal time to make a safari Guides – a good driver or guide (often the same person) can make or break your safari. Staff
safari companion, with a very much depends on which parks and reserves you want to visit and what at reputable companies are usually knowledgeable and competent. With borderline operators
wealth of information on you want to see and do. If it’s birding you’re interested in, for example, the trying to cut corners, chances are that staff are unfairly paid, and will likely not be particularly
East African wildlife. Field wet season is the best time in many areas. However, some lowland parks knowledgeable or motivated.
Guide to the Birds of East may be completely inaccessible during the rains. Wildlife concentrations
Setting the agenda – some drivers feel that they have to whisk you from one good ‘sighting’
Africa by Terry Stevenson also vary markedly, depending on the season. Tanzania’s Tarangire Na-
and John Fanshawe is tional Park is best visited during the dry season when animal concentra- to the next. If your preference is to stay in one strategic place for a while to simply experi-
similar for birding. tions there are highest. In Serengeti National Park, there are comparatively ence the environment and see what comes by, don’t hesitate to discuss this with your driver.
fewer animals during the dry season, although overall numbers continue to Going off in wild pursuit of the ‘Big Five’ means you’ll miss the more subtle aspects of the
be high and you’ll probably see wildlife there at any time of year. The dry surrounding nature.
season is also best for the park’s famous lions and other predators. Extracurriculars – in some areas, it’s common for drivers to stop at souvenir shops en route.
If you’re timing your safari around specific events, such as the wilde- While this gives the driver an often much-needed break from the wheel, most shops pay
beest migration in Serengeti National Park and Masai Mara National drivers commissions to bring clients, which means you may find yourself spending a lot more
Reserve, remember that there are no guarantees, as seasons vary from year time souvenir shopping than you’d bargained for. If you’re not interested in this, discuss it
to year and are difficult to accurately predict in advance. More details on with your driver at the outset of your safari, ideally while you’re still at the safari company’s
the individual parks are given in the country chapters. offices.
Less is more – if you’ll be teaming up with others to make a group, find out how many
What to Bring people will be in your vehicle, and try to meet your travelling companions before setting off.
Useful items include binoculars; field guides; a good quality sleeping
bag, especially if you’ll be doing any trekking; mosquito repellent; rain Special interests – if bird-watching or other special interests are important, arrange a private
Tsetse flies can be gear and waterproofing for wet-season travel, especially for camping safari with a specialised operator.
unwelcome safari safaris or treks; sunglasses; camera and film; extra contact-lens solution
companions in some and your prescription glasses as the dust can be irritating; and a good
areas. To minimise the book for the downtime in the middle of the day between wildlife drives Minivans are the most common option throughout Kenya and northern
nuisance, wear thick, or walks. Top-end lodges and tented camps usually have mosquito nets, Tanzania, but if you have a choice, go for a good Land Rover–style 4WD
long-sleeved shirts and but it can’t hurt to bring one along, and you’ll need one for budget instead. Apart from aesthetics, minivans accommodate too many people
trousers in khaki or other guesthouses. For walking safaris bring lightweight, long-sleeved/-legged for a good experience, the rooftop opening is usually only large enough for
drab shades, and avoid clothing in subdued colours, a head covering and sturdy, comfortable a few passengers to use at once, and at least some passengers will get stuck
bright, contrasting and shoes. For budget safaris, it’s a good idea to bring extra food and snacks in middle seats with poor views.
very dark clothing. and a roll of toilet paper. In and near most parks, there’s little available Whatever type of vehicle you’re in, you should try to avoid crowd-
except hotel meals and perhaps a few basics, so if you’re on a tight budget ing. Sitting uncomfortably scrunched together for several hours over
stock up on mineral water and supplies in the nearest major town. bumpy roads, or squeezed into a middle seat, detracts significantly
from the safari ambience. Most prices you will be quoted are based on
TYPES OF SAFARI groups of three to four passengers, which is about the maximum for
Organised Vehicle Safaris comfort for most vehicles. Some companies put five or six passengers
The options here range from two days up to several weeks, with five to in a standard 4WD, but the minimal savings don’t compensate for the
seven days ideal. At least one full day will normally be taken up with extra discomfort.
travel, and after seven, you may well feel like a rest. If you pack too much
distance or too many parks into a short period, chances are that you’ll Other Safaris
feel as if you’ve spent your whole time in transit, shuttling from place to If you’re the type that gets antsy sitting cooped up in a vehicle for sev-
place, rather than enjoying the destination. eral days on end, there is an increasing number of options for walking,
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cycling and other more energetic pursuits, sometimes on their own, and BALLOON SAFARIS
sometimes in combination with a vehicle safari. Drifting over the Serengeti Plains or along a riverbed in a hot-air balloon
In addition to the safaris listed here, see p26 for more ideas on ways is a superb way to experience East African nature if you have the funds. For beautiful photos,
to get out and moving. While everything depends on wind and weather conditions, and wildlife especially of the Masai
can’t be guaranteed, the captains try to stay between 500m and 1000m Mara, look for Mara-
WALKING, HIKING & CYCLING SAFARIS above ground, which means that if animals are there you’ll be able to see Serengeti: A Photographer’s
At many national parks you can arrange relatively short walks of two them. The main places for balloon safaris are Kenya’s Masai Mara National Paradise by Jonathan and
to three hours in the early morning or late afternoon. The focus is on Reserve and Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park. For more information, Angela Scott.
watching animals rather than covering distance, and walks like these are see p435 and p194.
often included in organised vehicle-safari packages, especially at the top
end of the scale. HORSEBACK-RIDING SAFARIS
For keen walkers, and those who want to minimise their time in safari Horseback-riding safaris are gaining in popularity, particularly in Tanza-
minibuses, there are an increasing number of more vigorous options, usu- nia; most require previous riding experience. See p250.
ally involving point-to-point walks or longer circuits. Kenya in particular
has a wide array of organised safaris combining walking, hiking and DO-IT-YOURSELF SAFARIS
cycling, with side trips by vehicle into the parks to see wildlife. Popular If you’re lucky enough to have your own vehicle, or have a group to split
areas include Mt Kenya, Mt Elgon, the Cherangani Hills and around the rental costs, it’s relatively easy to organise your own safari, though less
Rift Valley lakes. In Tanzania, activity-oriented safaris are getting into full commonly done than in southern Africa. Doing things yourself offers
swing, so expect lots of new developments within the next few years. For the great advantages of flexibility and being able to choose who you travel
now the best areas include the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, and Mt with. Just remember to bring enough extra petrol (as it’s not available in
Kilimanjaro and Arusha National Parks, all with highly rewarding hik- most parks), and some mechanical knowledge and spares; many park
ing. Longer walks can also be arranged in areas bordering the Serengeti, areas are quite remote, and if you break down, you’ll be on your own.
in Ruaha National Park and in Selous Game Reserve. Uganda also offers The main additional cost – apart from accommodation, park fees, petrol
some excellent opportunities – everything from tracking gorillas and and other standard items – is likely to be the vehicle fees charged by many
chimpanzees to birding walks in Bwindi Impenetrable and Kibali For- parks. For most areas, you’ll need a 4WD. Apart from costs, the main
est National Parks, to climbing Mt Elgon or trekking in the Rwenzori disadvantages of organising your own safari are breakdown and security
Mountains. concerns, finding your way (if you’re unfamiliar with the area), and the
fact that whoever is driving is going to be too busy concentrating on the
BOAT & CANOE SAFARIS road to notice much of the wildlife.
Like walking safaris, boat safaris are an excellent way to experience the As for organising a safari via public transport: while it’s possible to In addition to the ‘Big
Serengeti: Natural Order East African wilderness, and offer a welcome break from dusty, bumpy reach many parks with public transport, you’ll then need to arrange a Five’ (elephants, lions,
on the African Plain and roads. They’re also the only way to fully explore riverine environments, vehicle to get around once you get to the park gates. With the exception leopards, buffaloes and
In the Lion’s Den – both and they’ll give you new perspectives on the terrestrial scene as you ap- of Ngorongoro Crater and Katavi National Park, both in Tanzania, and a rhinos), there’s also a
by Mitsuaki Iwago – are proach hippos or crocodiles at close range, float by a sandbank covered handful of other areas, there’s no vehicle hire at most parks or reserves, and ‘Little Five’ (elephant
superb photographic with birds, or observe animals on shore from a river vantage point. hiring a car specifically for safari usually works out at least as expensively shrews, ant lions, leopard
documentaries of the Good places for boat safaris include along the Rufiji River in Tanzania’s as going through a tour operator, unless you are in a group. Hitching a lift tortoises, buffalo weavers
majestic rhythms of Selous Game Reserve; and in Uganda, Queen Elizabeth National Park, or isn’t usually a realistic option either, especially in Uganda, where there’s and rhino beetles).
nature on the East African the launch trip up the Victoria Nile to the base of Murchison Falls. In Tan- very little traffic into the national parks, and in Tanzania, where it’s not
plains. zania’s Arusha National Park, you can take canoe safaris on the Momela permitted in most parks.
Lakes (p188). Also see p549. For hiking or other safaris where you don’t need a vehicle to get around
once you’re at the park, doing things yourself via public transport is
CAMEL SAFARIS much easier, with the main considerations being time, sorting things out
Camel safaris offer the chance to get off the beaten track and into areas with park fees, guides and other logistics, and finding some travelling
where vehicle safaris don’t or can’t go. Most take place in Kenya’s Sam- companions. Allow up to a full day at the access town or trail head to
buru and Turkana tribal areas between Isiolo and Lake Turkana. Camel organise food, equipment and guides.
safaris can also be arranged at Mkuru, Tanzania (see p187). Although
you may well see wildlife along the way, the main attractions are the CHOOSING AN OPERATOR
journey itself, and the chance to immerse yourself in nomadic life and Competition among safari companies is fierce these days, and corners are
to mingle with the indigenous people. You have the choice of riding the often cut, especially at the budget level. Some companies enter wildlife
camels or walking alongside them. Most travelling is done in the cooler parks through side entrances to avoid park fees, while others use glorified
parts of the day, and a camp site is established around noon. In Kenya, matatu (Kenyan minibus) or daladala (pick-up truck or minibus) drivers
camel safaris are quite straightforward, with operators doing the organ- as guides, offer substandard food and poorly maintained vehicles, or under-
ising and most providing camping equipment and ablution facilities. In pay and otherwise poorly treat their staff. There are also many high-quality
Tanzania, however, you will need to be self-sufficient and sort out most companies who have excellent track records. Companies recommended in
of the logistics yourself. this chapter enjoyed a good reputation at the time of research, as do many
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others that couldn’t be listed due to space considerations. However, we into another company’s safari isn’t necessarily a bad thing, be sure that
can’t emphasise enough the need to check on the current situation with all the safari you booked and paid for is what you get, and try to meet the
of the listed companies and any others you may hear about. Following are people you’ll be travelling with before setting off.
some things to keep in mind when looking for an operator: Unless you speak the local language, be sure your driver can speak
Do some legwork (the Internet is a good start) before coming to East English.
Africa. Get personal recommendations, and once in the region, talk Go through the itinerary in detail and confirm what is expected/
with as many people as you can who have recently returned from a planned for each stage of the trip. Be sure that the number of wildlife
safari or trek with the company you’re considering. drives per day and all other specifics appear in the written contract, as
Be sceptical of price quotes that sound too good to be true, and don’t well as the starting and ending dates and approximate times. Normally,
rush into any deals, no matter how good they sound. major problems such as complete vehicle breakdown are compensated
Don’t fall for it if a tout tries to convince you that a safari or trek is for by adding additional time onto your safari. If this isn’t possible
leaving ‘tomorrow’ and that you can be the final person in the group. (for example, if you have an onward flight), reliable operators may
Take the time to shop around at reliable outfits to get a feel for what’s compensate you for a portion of the time lost. However don’t expect
on offer, and if others have supposedly registered, ask to speak with a refund for ‘minor’ problems such as punctured tyres or lesser break-
them. downs. Also note that park fees are nonrefundable.
In Tanzania and Kenya, check with Tanzanian Association of Tour
Operators (TATO) or Kenyan Association of Tour Operators (KATO),
and in Uganda with the Uganda Tourist Board, to find out whether
the operator you’re considering is licensed. (See below for contact
TANZANIA
details.) ITINERARIES
Don’t give money to anyone who doesn’t work out of an office, and Northern Circuit
don’t arrange any safari deals at the bus stand or with touts who follow Arusha National Park is the best bet for a day trip, while Tarangire and
you to your hotel room. Also be wary of sham operators trading under Lake Manyara National Parks are each easily accessed as overnight trips
the same names as companies listed in this or other guidebooks. Don’t from Arusha, although all these parks deserve more time to do them
let business cards fool you; they’re easy to print up and are no proof justice. For a half-week itinerary, try any of the northern parks alone
of legitimacy. (although for the Serengeti, it’s worth flying at least one way, since it’s a The Serengeti is Tanzania’s
Go with a company that has its own vehicles and equipment. If you full day’s drive from Arusha), or Ngorongoro Crater together with either largest park (14,763 sq
have any doubts, don’t pay a deposit until you’ve seen the vehicle that Lake Manyara or Tarangire. With a week, you’ll have just enough time km), and home to the
you’ll be using. (Also be aware that it’s not unknown for an operator for the classic combination of Lake Manyara, Tarangire, Ngorongoro and greatest concentration
to show you one vehicle, but then on the actual safari day, arrive in an the Serengeti, but it’s better to focus on just two or three of these. Many of large mammals in
inferior one.) operators offer a standard three-day tour of Lake Manyara, Tarangire the world. About half
Especially at the budget level, there’s a lot of client swapping between and Ngorongoro (or a four- to five-day version including the Serengeti). of the park is pristine
companies that have full vehicles and those that don’t. You could easily However, distances to Ngorongoro and the Serengeti are long, and the wilderness, without even
find yourself on safari with a company that isn’t the one you booked trip is likely to leave you feeling that you’ve spent too much time rush- a road.
with, especially if you’re booking from abroad. Reputable companies ing from park to park and not enough time settling in and experiencing
will inform you if they’re going to do this. Although getting swapped the actual environments. If you’re serious about a safari in the north,
especially if you want to visit Serengeti National Park, allow a minimum
of five days from Arusha.
KATO & TATO In addition to these more conventional itineraries, there are countless
Kenya and Tanzania have tour-operator associations that serve as local regulatory bodies, and other possibilities combining wildlife viewing with visits to other areas.
with whom reputable safari companies will be registered members. While they’re not always the For example, a vehicle safari in the Ngorongoro Crater followed by a climb
most powerful of entities, going on safari with one of their members will give you at least some of Oldoinyo Lengai, trekking elsewhere in Ngorongoro Conservation
recourse to appeal in case of conflict or problems. They’re also good sources of information on Area, or visiting Lake Eyasi.
whether a company is reputable or not, and it’s well worth checking in with them before finalis-
ing your plans. Their contacts are as follows: Southern Circuit
Kenyan Association of Tour Operators (KATO; %020-713348; www.katokenya.org) Mikumi National Park and Saadani Game Reserve are both good destin-
Tanzanian Association of Tour Operators (TATO; %027-250 4188; www.tatotz.org) ations if you have only one or (better) two nights. With three to four days,
try Selous Game Reserve, or Ruaha National Park if you fly. With a bit
In Tanzania, TATO publishes a list of registered operators on its website. Other good sources of longer, you could combine the Selous and Ruaha, Ruaha and Katavi (in
information on tour operators: the west) or – for a safari and hiking – Mikumi and Udzungwa Mountains
Kenya Professional Safari Guides Association (%020-609355; www.safariguides.org) National Parks.
Tanzania Tourist Board Tourist Information Centre (Map pp180-1; %027-250 3843; www.tanzania
-web.com; Boma Rd, Arusha) Western Parks
Uganda Tourist Board (Map p472; %041-342196; www.visituganda.com; 13/15 Kimathi Ave, Kampala) Trips to Katavi, Mahale Mountains or Gombe Stream National Parks will
require a bit more planning, and unless you have lots of time, will involve
92 TA N Z A N I A • • O p e r a t o r s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K E N YA • • I t i n e r a r i e s 93
some flights. For Katavi, a minimum of three days would be ideal, given Nature Discovery (%027-254 4063; [email protected]) Environmentally responsible
the effort it takes to reach the park. For Gombe Stream, budget at least northern-circuit safaris, and treks on Kilimanjaro, Meru and in the Crater Highlands. Midrange.
two days, and for Mahale, a bit longer to revel in the remoteness. Roy Safaris (Map pp180-1; %027-250 2115, 027-250 8010; www.roysafaris.com; Serengeti
Rd, Arusha) A highly regarded family-run company offering budget and semiluxury camping safaris
OPERATORS in the northern circuit, plus luxury-lodge safaris and treks on Mt Kilimanjaro, Mt Meru and in the
Africa Travel Resource (www.intotanzania.com) A Web-based safari broker that matches your Crater Highlands. Their vehicle fleet is the cream of the crop, and safaris and treks are consistently
safari ideas with an operator, and helps you plan and book customised itineraries. All budgets. good value for money. All budgets.
Akaro Tours Tanzania (Map p172; %027-275 2986; www.akarotours.com; Ground fl, NSFF Safari Makers (Map pp180-1; %027-254 4446; www.safarimakers.com; India St, Arusha) Reli-
House, Old Moshi Rd, Moshi) No-frills Kilimanjaro treks, day hikes on Kilimanjaro’s lower slopes and able no-frills northern-circuit camping and lodge safaris and treks at very reasonable prices, some
a range of cultural tours. Budget. of which also incorporate Cultural Tourism Program tours. Budget.
Coastal Travels (Map p118; %022-211 7959/60; [email protected]; Upanga Rd, Dar es Salaam) Shah Tours (Map p172; %027-275 2370, 027-275 2998; www.kilimanjaro-shah.com; Mawenzi
Bernhard Grzimek’s 1959 A long-established outfit with its own fleet of planes and safari camps and lodges in Ruaha Rd, Moshi) Quality Kilimanjaro and Meru treks at reasonable prices. Midrange. An essential safari
film The Serengeti Shall National Park, the Selous Game Reserve and on Mafia Island. They often have good-value ‘last- Sunny Safaris (Map pp180-1; %027-250 8184, 027-250 7145; www.sunnysafaris.com; Colonel companion is Lonely
Not Die was one of the minute’ flight-accommodation deals. Midrange. Middleton Rd, Arusha) A wide selection of no-frills camping and lodge safaris at reasonable prices, as Planet’s Watching Wildlife
most influential wildlife East African Safari & Touring Company (Map pp180-1; %0744-741354; www.eastafrican well as Kilimanjaro and Meru treks, and day walks in the area around Arusha. Budget. East Africa, which is full of
films ever made, drawing safari.info; Goliondoi Rd, Arusha) Customised itineraries for individuals and small groups, with focus Tropical Trails (%027-250 0358, 027-254 8299; www.tropicaltrails.com; Masai Camp, Old Moshi tips on spotting wildlife,
world attention not just on the ecosystems around Tarangire National Park, where they operate a camp. Midrange to top end. Rd, Arusha) A long-standing company offering high-quality treks and walking safaris on Kilimanjaro, maps of East Africa’s
to the Serengeti but to Foxes African Safaris (%0744-237422; www.tanzaniasafaris.info) A family-run company with Meru, in the Crater Highlands and in the Monduli Mountains. Kosher treks, photographic camping parks and background
conservation throughout lodges and camps in Mikumi, Ruaha and Katavi National Parks, on the coast near Bagamoyo and in safaris and other special-interest tours can be arranged, and a portion of the company’s profits goes information on animal
the continent. the Southern Highlands. Offers combination itineraries to these destinations using plane, road and towards supporting education projects in Maasai schools. Upper midrange. behaviour and ecology.
their own private luxury train. Midrange to top end. Zara Tanzania Adventures (Map p172; %027-275 0011; www.zaratravel.com; Rindi Lane,
George Mavroudis Safaris (%027-254 8840; [email protected]) Exclusive, customised Moshi) An efficient outfit that does a brisk business with Kilimanjaro treks, plus some northern-
mobile safaris in off-beat areas of the northern circuit, done in vintage style. Also offers combination circuit safaris. Budget to midrange.
Tanzania-Rwanda itineraries. Top end.
Green Footprint Adventures (%027-250 2664; www.greenfootprint.co.tz) One of the best Most hotels in Marangu also organise Kilimanjaro treks at price levels
contacts if you’re interested in anything action-oriented in the northern circuit (though they also roughly corresponding with their accommodation rates. For listings, see
cater to those with more sedentary tastes as well). All safaris are individually tailored and highly p175. Marangu Hotel, in addition to fully catered treks, also offers a no-
personalised. Activities generally range from a few hours to a half day, and include canoe safaris in frills ‘hard way’ option: for US$170 plus park fees for a five-day Marangu
Arusha National Park, mountain biking and walking around Lake Manyara, short hikes in the Crater climb, the hotel will take care of hut reservations and provide a guide with
Highlands and bush guide courses. Upper midrange to top end. porter; you must provide all food and equipment.
Hippotours & Safaris (Map p118; %022-212 8662/3; www.hippotours.com; Nyumba ya
Sanaa, Ohio St, Dar es Salaam) Southern-circuit itineraries, especially in Selous Game Reserve and
on Mafia Island. Midrange to top end.
Hoopoe Safaris (Map pp180-1; %027-250 7011; www.hoopoe.com; India St, Arusha) One of
KENYA
the best companies in the industry, with top-quality luxury camping and lodge safaris, plus a range ITINERARIES
of treks. Hoopoe has its own tented camps in the border areas of Lake Manyara and Serengeti Whether you take a camping safari or a lodge safari, there’s a plethora of
National Parks and elsewhere in the northern circuit, where they have formed partnerships with options available ranging from two days to 15 days and, in some cases,
the surrounding communities. They also arrange trekking and safari itineraries combining Tanzania, up to six weeks.
Kenya and Rwanda. Upper midrange and top end. Most shorter itineraries of half a week or less concentrate on Masai
IntoAfrica (www.intoafrica.co.uk) A small company offering fair-traded cultural safaris and treks Mara National Reserve and Lake Nakuru National Park, while short
in northern Tanzania and Kenya, and earning consistently high marks from readers. It supports Amboseli and Tsavo National Parks safaris are also common. You’ll need
local communities in the areas where it works, and is a fine choice if your interest is more in gaining a little more time to head north to the popular Samburu and Buffalo
insight into local life and culture than in experiencing the luxury-lodge atmosphere. Itineraries Springs National Reserves, while a week will give you time to tag on visits
include treks on Mts Kilimanjaro and Meru, plus a seven-day wildlife-cultural safari in Maasai and to Lakes Nakuru, Bogoria and Baringo to either a Masai Mara, Amboseli
Chagga areas. Midrange. or northern parks itinerary. With a week and a half you could take in two
Kahembe’s Trekking & Cultural Safaris (%027-253 1088, 027-253 1377; www.authentic or more of the Rift Valley lakes plus Masai Mara, Amboseli and Tsavo, or
culture.org; Babati) A small outfit offering Mt Hanang treks and a range of no-frills cultural safaris Samburu and Buffalo Springs, Meru, Lake Nakuru and Masai Mara.
around Babati; a good choice for experiencing Tanzania from a local perspective. Budget. Most of the safari companies cover the standard routes described in the
Key’s Hotel (%275 2250; www.keys-hotels.com; Uru Rd, Moshi) A long-established place offer- previous paragraph, but some also specialise in different routes designed
ing reliable Kilimanjaro packages. Midrange. to take you off the beaten track. Meru, Mt Elgon, Saiwa Swamp and the
Moshi Expeditions & Mountaineering (Map p172; %027-275 4234; www.memtours.com; Aberdare National Parks are all possible. Also popular are itineraries com-
Kaunda St, Moshi) Kilimanjaro treks and northern-circuit safaris at competitive prices. Budget to bining wildlife safaris with visits to Lake Turkana; for example, visiting
midrange. either or both of Samburu and Buffalo Springs and either Meru National
Nature Beauties (Map pp180-1; %027-254 8224; [email protected]; Old Moshi Rd, Park or Shaba National Reserve and then heading up to Marsabit National
Arusha) Kilimanjaro treks and northern-circuit safaris. Budget. Park before crossing the Chalbi Desert to Lake Turkana.
94 K E N YA • • O p e r a t o r s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com U G A N D A • • I t i n e r a r i e s 95
In the high season many companies have daily or every second day Safari Seekers (www.safari-seekerskenya.net) Mombasa (Map p314; %041-220122; Diamond
departures to the most popular national parks – Amboseli, Masai Mara Trust Arcade, Moi Ave, Mombasa); Nairobi (Map pp282-3; %020-652317; Jubilee Insurance
and Tsavo. They generally leave only once or twice per week for the less Exchange Bldg, Kaunda St, Nairobi) Has its own permanent camp sites in Amboseli, Samburu and
frequented parks such as Samburu and Buffalo Springs, Shaba and Meru. Masai Mara, and runs camping and lodge safaris both in Kenya and Tanzania, plus trips into Uganda.
In addition, most companies will leave for any of the most popular na- Budget and midrange.
tional parks at any time so long as you have a minimum number of people Saferide Safaris (Map pp282-3; %020-253129; www.saferidesafaris.com; Avenue House,
wanting to go – usually four. If you are on your own you may have to wait Kenyatta Ave, Nairobi) A relatively new operator consistently recommended by readers for its
around for a while to be put together with a larger group, which means it camping excursions. Budget.
makes sense to book ahead or get a group together yourself rather than Sana Highlands Trekking Expeditions (Map pp282-3; %020-227820; www.sanatrekking
just turning up and expecting to leave the next morning. kenya.com; Contrust House, Moi Ave, Nairobi) Another of the big budget players and a regular stop
on the tout circuit. However, they have had a reasonable reputation in the past for walking safaris
OPERATORS as well as the usual camping and lodge itineraries. Budget.
Basecamp Explorer (%020-577490; www.basecampexplorer.com; Ole Odume Rd, Hurlingham, Somak Travel (www.somak-nairobi.com) Mombasa (Map p328; %041-487349; Somak House,
Nairobi) An excellent Scandinavian-owned ecotourism operator offering a nine-day camping Nyerere Ave, PO Box 90738); Nairobi (%020-535508; Somak House, Mombasa Rd, Nairobi) Runs
itinerary to Samburu, Lake Nakuru and the Masai Mara, with walking at Mt Kenya, Lake Bogoria the usual range of lodge safaris and other options such as luxury camel treks. Top end.
and Lake Baringo. The firm also runs plenty of conservation-based safaris, including trips to Lamu, Southern Cross Safaris (www.southerncrosssafaris.com) Malindi (Map p337;%042-30547;
About 8000 elephants Tanzania, Mt Kenya and Kilimanjaro. Top end. Malindi Complex, Lamu Rd); Mombasa (Map p312; %041-475074; Kanstan Centre, Nyali Bridge,
roam Tsavo’s expanses – Best Camping Tours (Map pp282-3; %020-229667; www.bestcampingkenya.com; I&M Malindi Rd, Mombasa); Nairobi (%020-884712; Symbion House, Karen Rd, Nairobi) A long-
one-third of Kenya’s Towers, Kenyatta Ave, Nairobi) This company offers camping safaris on all the main routes including standing operator and travel agent with an excellent reputation around the country. Top end.
overall total, but a huge Amboseli or Masai Mara (three to four days) and Amboseli and Tsavo West (four days). Budget.
drop from the 40,000- Bike Treks (%020-446371; www.biketreks.co.ke; Kabete Gardens, Westlands, Nairobi) This
plus elephants at home
here before poaching
company offers walking and cycling as well as combined walking/cycling safaris. Its shortest safari
is a three-day Masai Mara trip, and there are also six-day walking or cycling trips to the Maasai
UGANDA
took its toll. land west and south of Narok. Midrange. ITINERARIES
Bushbuck Adventures (%020-7121505; www.bushbuckadventures.com; Peponi Rd, West- Uganda is a compact country in comparison with some of its neighbours,
lands, Nairobi) Bushbuck is a small company specialising in personalised safaris. It’s relatively and most safari itineraries are relatively short, averaging from one to three
expensive, but some company profits are put into conservation projects. The company is also strong weeks. Some include a detour to neighbouring Rwanda. Shorter trips to
on walking safaris. Midrange. view the mountain gorillas or Murchison Falls are also popular with trav-
Eastern & Southern Safaris (Map pp282-3; %020-242828; www.essafari.co.ke; Finance ellers combining Uganda with visits to Kenya or Tanzania.
House, Loita St, Nairobi) A classy and reliable outfit. Safaris in Tanzania and Uganda are also available, The shortest safaris, taking a week or less, focus on the southwest, usu-
and departures are guaranteed with just two people for some itineraries. Midrange to top end. ally combining a gorilla visit in Uganda or Rwanda with Queen Elizabeth Uganda’s Murchison
Gametrackers (Map pp282-3; %020-338927; www.gametrackersafaris.com; Nginyo Towers, and Lake Mburo National Parks or Kibale Forest National Park. With 10 Falls National Park is
cnr Koinange & Moktar Daddah Sts, Nairobi) Long established and usually reliable, this company to 12 days, you’ll be able to cover most of Uganda’s highlights, following one of the few places in
offers a full range of camping and lodge safaris around Kenya. There are also short excursions, a loop from Kampala south via Lake Mburo to Bwindi Impenetrable Na- the world for spotting
walking, Mt Kenya treks and numerous long-haul trips to Tanzania, Uganda and further afield. tional Park or Parc National des Volcans in Rwanda, before heading north the rare shoebill stork,
Budget and midrange. through Queen Elizabeth National Park and Kibale Forest National Park though sightings are far
IntoAfrica (www.intoafrica.co.uk) This environmentally and culturally sensitive company gets on to Murchison Falls National Park. With two or more weeks, you’ll also from guaranteed.
more praise from readers than just about any other, placing an emphasis on fair trade. Trips on offer be able to include other parks in the west such as Semliki National Park
include a variety of routes up Mt Kenya as well as cultural treks with Maasai people. Midrange. or Semliki Valley Game Reserve and even consider a flying visit to remote
Ketty Tours ([email protected]) Diani Beach (%040-203582; Diani shopping centre, Diani Kidepo Valley in the northeast. This time frame will also allow more time
Beach); Mombasa (Map p314; %041-2315178; Ketty Plaza, Moi Ave, Mombasa) This company to relax en route, and for other activities such as guided bird-watching or
specialises in short tours of the coastal region and into Tsavo East or West. However, it also offers white-water rafting.
camping safaris to all the usual parks from two to 10 days. Budget and midrange.
Let’s Go Travel (Map pp282-3; %020-340331; www.letsgosafari.com; Caxton House, Standard OPERATORS
St, Nairobi) This excellent travel agent runs its own safaris and excursions and also sells on an Afri Tours & Travel (Map p472; %041-233596; www.afritourstravel.com; Daisy’s Arcade, 13
amazing range of trips from other companies, covering Tanzania, Uganda, Ethiopia and even the Buganda Rd, Kampala) One of the better all-round safari companies in Uganda, offering safaris
Seychelles. Prices are on the high side for camping, but it’s also a good port of call for unusual at prices for every pocket. It operates the Sambiya River Lodge in Murchison and promotes some
lodge safaris and car hire. Midrange. excellent-value short safaris to what is arguably Uganda’s best national park, as well as offering full
Ontdek Kenya (%061-2030326; www.ontdekkenya.com; PO Box 2352, Nyeri) This small safari itineraries throughout the country. All budgets.
operator has been recommended by several readers and offers walking trips catered to women, African Pearl Safaris (Map p472; %041-233566; www.africanpearlsafaris.com; Impala House,
vegetarians and bird-watchers. Destinations include the Rift Valley lakes and Mt Kenya. Budget. 13 Kimathi Ave, Kampala) Offers a wide range of shorter safaris around Uganda with a focus on
Origins Safaris (Map pp282-3; %020-312137; www.originsafaris.info; Fedha Towers, Standard Bwindi Impenetrable National Park where it operates the Buhoma Homestead. Midrange.
St, Nairobi) Origins offer tailored bird-watching trips and a superb range of exclusive cultural safaris Great Lakes Safaris (%041-267153; www.safari-uganda.com; Suzie House, Gaba Rd, Kampala)
around the country, including such rare sights as Samburu circumcision ceremonies and tribal One of the newer safari companies in Uganda, the team has been generating rave reviews for
initiation rites in southern Ethiopia. Top end. friendly service and flexibility. They cover all the major national parks in Uganda. All budgets.
96 R W A N D A • • I t i n e r a r i e s www.lonelyplanet.com
Mantana African Safaris (%041-321552; www.kimbla-mantana.com; 17 Nambi Rd, Entebbe)
Known throughout East Africa for its luxury lodges and tented camps, Mantana offers a limited range
of safaris around Uganda. Most of its trips combine stays at one or several of their camps at Lake
Mburo, Bwindi and Kibale Forest, plus visits to Queen Elizabeth and the crater lakes. Midrange to
top end.
Uganda Safari Company (Map p471; %041-251182; www.safariuganda.com; Emin Pasha
Hotel, Aki Bua Rd, Kampala) Formerly Semliki Safaris, this is a specialist operator offering all-
inclusive safaris throughout Uganda for around US$300 per day, including Semliki Valley Game
Reserve, Queen Elizabeth, Murchison Falls and the mountain gorillas. As well as offering tailored
trips for bird-watchers, fishers and other special-interest groups, it runs the luxurious Semliki Lodge
in western Uganda and Apoka Lodge at beautiful Kidepo Valley. Top end.
Volcanoes Safaris Kampala (Map p471; %041-346464; www.volcanoessafaris.com; 27 Lu-
mumba Ave, Kampala); UK office (%0870-870 8480; [email protected]) An extensive
choice covering the highlights of Uganda, with a particular focus on the mountain gorillas here and
in Rwanda. The organisation also operates upmarket camps at Mgahinga, Bwindi and Sipi Falls. It’s
also possible to make enquiries or bookings through its UK office. Midrange to top end.
RWANDA
ITINERARIES
The few organised safaris that include Rwanda are generally short – most
less than a week – yet expensive due to the lack of competition. All con-
centrate on trips to Parc National des Volcans.
OPERATORS
In addition to the following companies, it’s worth checking with the na-
tional tourism office in Kigali (see p575) for an updated listing of oper-
ators working in Rwanda.
Jane Goodall’s classic, In Primate Safaris (Map p574; %503428; www.primatesafaris-rwanda.com; Ave de la Paix, Kigali)
the Shadow of Man, is Offers a range of short safaris to Ngungwe Forest National Park and Parc National des Volcans; in
essential and fascinating addition, the owners have years of experience in the Kenyan safari business.
reading for anyone plan- Thousand Hills (Map p574; %505151; www.thousandhills.rw; Hotel des Milles Collines, Kigali)
ning to go chimpanzee New operator with a very experienced team who have worked all over the world. Gorilla visits,
tracking in East Africa. national park visits and an emphasis on local culture. Their motto is ‘paradise needs to be shared’.
Volcanoes Safaris (Map p574; %576530; [email protected]; Hotel des Milles
Collines, Kigali) The Rwandan branch office for Volcanoes Safaris of Uganda; see p95 for more
information.
97
Mountain Gorillas
Coming face to face with mountain gorillas is the ultimate wildlife experi-
ence in Africa. No bars, no windows – you are a humble guest in their
domain. Tracking through dense vegetation, nothing quite prepares you
for the moment when you come upon a gorilla family in the wild; the
first glimpse of black as a juvenile jumps off a nearby branch, a toddler
clinging to the back of its mother, and the shiver of fear as a giant silver-
back slowly crosses your path. This is one of life’s great experiences and
is not to be missed when travelling through East Africa.
There are thought to be fewer than 700 mountain gorillas (Gorilla gorilla
beringei) left in the world today, all found in a small area of East Africa Gorilla: Struggle for
straddling the borders of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Survival in the Virungas
the Congo (DR Congo). This makes them a critically endangered species. (1996) is coauthored
Relations between humans and gorillas have not always been fraternal. by George Schaller,
For centuries gorillas were considered fearsome and aggressive – with the primatologist who
portrayals like King Kong hardly helping their image – and it was only last pioneered the study
century that we finally learned that they are gentle and vegetarian. In reality of mountain gorillas
chimpanzees are far more aggressive than the relatively docile gorillas. in the Virungas. This is
The first European to encounter the mountain gorillas was Oscar von a biography of these
Beringe, in 1902. He shot two on the slopes of Mt Sabinyo and the ‘new’ gentle creatures and the
subspecies was named after him. Hunting the gorillas was a popular efforts undertaken to
pastime until one hunter, Carl Akeley, decided that something must be protect them in a hostile
done to preserve the population of these magnificent creatures. In 1925 environment.
he persuaded the Belgian government to create Africa’s first protected
area, Albert National Park, which is now Parc National des Virungas in
DR Congo. Sadly, over the years agriculture and administrative division
reduced the size of this protected area, and poaching further reduced the
number of gorillas.
The first scientific study of the mountain gorillas in the Virunga volca-
noes area was undertaken by George Schaller in 1959. His work was con-
tinued by Dian Fossey from 1967 and her story has been made the subject
of a film, Gorillas in the Mist. Fossey’s confrontational, uncompromising
stance on poaching most likely led to her murder in 1985.
GORILLA TOURISM
By the late 1960s gorilla tracking had already become quite popular in DR
Congo, and from 1978 gorilla tourism was also being promoted in Rwanda, In 1978 Bill Weber and
with tremendous results for the local economy. During the 1980s gorilla Amy Vedder began
tourism was an important source of income for Rwanda, and the animals studying mountain goril-
became a symbol of national pride. Uganda was slow to realise the potential las with Dian Fossey in
of promoting its primates, but, due to political instability in neighbouring Rwanda. In the Kingdom
Rwanda and DR Congo, by the late 1990s it was Uganda which had estab- of Gorillas: Fragile Species
lished itself as the most popular country for encountering gorillas. in a Dangerous Land tells
Gorilla tourism today stands at a crossroads. All three countries where how they established the
the remaining gorillas live have a history of instability that makes it hard Mountain Gorilla Project
for international conservation organisations to operate with any certainty. and encouraged the eco-
The International Gorilla Conservation Programme (IGCP) and the Dian tourism which may save
Fossey Gorilla Fund (DFGF) have tried to promote sustainable agricultural these majestic creatures
and tourism practices, and to encourage the active participation of local from extinction.
communities in conservation, and this has played a large part in ensuring
the gorillas’ survival during turbulent times. However, many of the local
communities around these protected areas remain bitter, as they’re aware
98 M O U N TA I N G O R I L L A S • • T h e G o r i l l a s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com M O U N TA I N G O R I L L A S • • T h e G o r i l l a s 99
of the vast sums of money flowing in from visitors, and very little of it Nests are only used once and the age of a nest is usually determinable
reaches them. by the dung left there. Gorillas will usually only travel about 1km a day,
The Ugandan authorities pioneered a program to give 10% of gorilla unless they have encountered another group in which case they may
revenue to the local communities around Bwindi Impenetrable and move further.
Mgahinga Gorilla National Parks. However, after the initial fanfare, the
amount was quietly trimmed back to 10% of park entrance fees, not 10% Families
of gorilla-tracking fees – which is the difference between US$2 and US$36 Gorillas generally live in family groups of varying sizes, usually including
Dian Fossey spent most of per visitor or more than US$1000 per day! Unless the local communities one or two older silverback males, younger black-back males, females and
her life fighting to protect have more of an incentive to protect these beautiful creatures, the future infants. Most groups contain between 10 and 15 gorillas but in Rwanda
the mountain gorillas and of the gorillas will never be secure. and DR Congo there are groups of 30 or more.
the Dian Fossey Gorilla Currently Bwindi, in Uganda, and Rwanda’s Parc National des Volcans There are strong bonds between family individuals and status is usually
Fund (www.gorillafund are the two most popular places to track the mountain gorillas. Mgahinga linked to age. Silverbacks are at the top of the hierarchy, then females with
.org) continues her work in Uganda used to be popular with independent travellers, as permits were infants or ties to the silverbacks, then black-backs and other females.
through antipoaching available at short notice; however, the solitary family once resident there Most gorillas leave the group when they reach maturity, which helps
measures, monitoring, has been on an extended vacation on the Rwanda side of the border, and prevent interbreeding among such a small population.
research, education and may not return. The good news for visitors to the region is that Parc Na-
supporting local tional des Virungas in DR Congo is once again open for gorilla tracking Conflict
communities. and there are 36 permits a day available at Djomba and Bukima. This is Gorillas are relatively placid primates and serious confrontations are
currently the easiest place to pick up a permit at short notice. rare, although violence can flare if there is a challenge for supremacy For a better understand-
The most important development for the future of gorilla tourism could between silverbacks. Conflicts are mostly kept to shows of strength and ing of how intelligent
be a long-term plan, currently under discussion, to create a tri-national vocal disputes. gorillas are, take a look at
protected area under a single administration, which would market the Conflict between groups is also uncommon, as gorillas are not territo- www.koko.org, dedicated
gorillas internationally. However, with relations between the governments rial. However, ranges can often overlap and if two groups meet, there is to Koko the gorilla at San
of Uganda, Rwanda and DR Congo frosty to say the least, this will remain usually a lot of display and bravado on the part of silverbacks, including Francisco Zoo, who can
a conservationist’s dream rather than a geographic reality for several years mock charges. Often the whole group joins in and it is at this point that understand more than
to come. young adult females may choose to switch allegiance. 1000 words.
If gorillas do fight, injuries can be very serious as these animals have
THE GORILLAS long canine teeth. If a dominant male is driven from a group by another
Gorillas are the largest of the great apes and share an astonishing 97% of silverback, it is likely the new leader will kill all the young infants to
The International Gorilla their biological make-up with human beings. Gorillas used to inhabit a establish his mating rights.
Conservation Project swathe of land that cut right across central Africa, but the ice age dimin-
(IGCP; www.mountain ished the forests and divided them into three groups: the western lowland Communication
gorillas.org) is a unique gorilla, the eastern lowland gorilla and the mountain gorilla. Mountain Gorillas communicate in a variety of ways, including facial expressions,
partnership between gorillas are now found only in two small populations of about 330 or so gestures and calls. Adult males use barks and roars during confrontations or
the African Wildlife each in the forests of Bwindi, and on the slopes of the Virunga volcanoes, to coordinate the movement of their groups to a different area. Postures and
Foundation (AWF), Fauna encompassing Rwanda’s Parc National des Volcans and Dr Congo’s Parc gestures form an important element of intimidation and it is possible for a The heaviest gorilla on
& Flora International (FFI) National de Virungas. There is no doubt that mountain gorillas are a very clash to be diffused by a display of teeth-baring, stiff-legging and charging. record was an eastern
and the World Wide Fund rare species – there is just one for every 10 million people on earth. And if all this fails, a terrifying scream is enough to deter most outsiders. lowland gorilla, weighing
for Nature (WWF). Their Mountain gorillas are distinguished from their lowland relatives by Friendly communication is an important part of group bonding and a whopping 210kg or
goal is the protection of longer hair, a broader chest and a wider jaw. The most obvious thing that includes grunts of pleasure, particularly associated with food and foraging. more than 460lbs.
mountain gorillas and sets apart the gorillas in Bwindi from those of the Virunga volcanoes is Upon finding food, gorillas will grunt or bark to alert other members of the
their forest habitat in that they are less shaggy, most likely due to the lower altitude of Bwindi group. Grooming, however, is not as common as among other primates.
Rwanda, Uganda and the compared with the volcanoes. More recently, DNA tests have suggested
DR Congo. that the Bwindi gorilla is a distinct subspecies from the mountain gorilla, Biology
although that’s of more concern to scientists than the average tourist. Gorillas are the largest primates in the world and adult males weigh as
much as 200kg (440lbs). Females are about half this size. Mountain gorillas
Daily Life are the largest of the three gorilla species, although the largest gorilla ever
Gorillas spend 30% of their day feeding, 30% moving and foraging, and the recorded was an eastern lowland male.
remainder resting. They spend most of their time on the ground, moving Males reach maturity between eight and 15 years – their backs turning
around on all fours, but stand up to reach for food. Gorillas are vegetarians silver as they enter their teens – while females enter adulthood at the earlier
and their diet consists mainly of bamboo shoots, giant thistles and wild age of eight. Conception is possible for about three days each month and
celery, all of which contain water and allow the gorillas to survive without once a female has conceived for the first time, she spends most of her life
drinking for long periods of time. Insects are a popular source of protein. pregnant or nursing.
The group’s dominant silverback, also known as the alpha male, dictates The duration of pregnancy is about 8½ months. Newborn infants are
movements for the day, and at night each gorilla makes its own nest. highly dependent on adults, and a young infant will rarely leave its mother’s
100 M O U N TA I N G O R I L L A S • • W h e re t o T r a c k t h e G o r i l l a s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com M O U N TA I N G O R I L L A S • • W h e re t o T r a c k t h e G o r i l l a s 101
arms during its first six months. Initially the infant clings to the front of
its mother, but gradually it spends more time on her back. RULES FOR GORILLA TRACKING
No mountain gorillas In its second year, a young gorilla begins to interact with other mem- Before meeting the mountain dwellers of East Africa, all visitors must observe the following
have ever been success- bers of the group and starts to feed itself. Infant gorillas and silverbacks rules of gorilla etiquette.
fully reared in captivity, often form a bond and it is not uncommon for a silverback to adopt an Anyone with an illness cannot track the gorillas. Shared biology means shared illness.
contributing to the infant if its mother dies. This distinguishes gorillas from other primates,
precarious nature of their where child-rearing duties are left to females. Eating and smoking near the gorillas is prohibited – they might want to join in.
existence. From about three years, young gorillas become quite independent, and Flash photography is banned; turn off the autoflash or you will be mighty unpopular with
build their own nests. However, 30% of gorillas die before the age of six. both rangers and gorillas.
WHERE TO TRACK THE GORILLAS Speak quietly and don’t point at the gorillas – they might get paranoid.
For many visitors to East Africa, a gorilla visit is the single largest ex- Leave nothing in the park; take out everything you bring in.
penditure they’ll make in the region. It is worth putting some thought Stay very close to your guide. Keep a few metres back from the gorillas.
into where to visit these incredible creatures, not only to get the most out
of the experience, but to ensure a safe visit as well. Hard as it seems to stand still when faced by 200kg of charging silverback, never ever run
In the last few years the choice really came down to Bwindi National away…crouch down until he cools off.
Park in Uganda or Parc National des Volcans in Rwanda, as the Mgahinga
gorillas aren’t always in Uganda and DR Congo was closed. However,
with DR Congo welcoming visitors once more, it’s easier to get a permit ARRANGING PERMITS
than it used to be. Rwanda offers 40 permits a day to visit five habituated It can be very difficult to get permits for Bwindi. Numbers have increased
Gorilla-tracking permits families, DR Congo offers 36 permits a day, also to visit five habituated to 32 per day, but local and international tour operators tend to book the
generate vast sums of families, while Uganda offers 32 permits daily to visit four families. The bulk of them months in advance and there is no effective stand-by system For more on mountain
money for the countries towering Virunga volcanoes are a majestic backdrop, making Rwanda and in place. There are three mountain gorilla groups habituated to human gorillas in Uganda, see
involved. Rwanda can DR Congo the more evocative settings in which to track the gorillas. contact which can be visited from the Buhoma sector of the park, and the Uganda Wildlife
make US$15,000 a day During peak season it can be very difficult to get gorilla permits in one family that can be tracked from the newer Nkuringo sector. A gorilla Authority website at
when all the permits are Uganda and Rwanda, so book ahead if you are planning to visit in De- permit costs US$360 including park entry fee and must be paid for in www.uwa.or.ug.
sold, Uganda stands to cember and January or July and August. Flexible travellers who don’t US dollars cash at the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA; %346287; [email protected];
make US$11,520 and DR want to fix a date in advance should consider DR Congo, as the waiting 7 Kira Rd) headquarters in Kampala. Alternatively, try and book ahead
Congo US$9000. time is much shorter than in Rwanda and Uganda. through a Ugandan tour operator (see p95).
Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, Uganda
Since the middle of the 1990s, Bwindi has been the number-one place Mgahinga encompasses part of the Virunga volcanoes, which span the
to track the mountain gorillas – although Parc National des Volcans in borders of Uganda, Rwanda and DR Congo. This park used to be popular
Rwanda is almost as popular these days. Its popularity and reputation with independent travellers as advance bookings were not possible due to
took a plunge after the murder of eight tourists here in March 1999, the gorillas’ tendency to duck over the border into Rwanda or DR Congo.
but security has since been considerably beefed up and it is once again That was the good news, the bad news is that they seem to have decided
regularly booked out. to stay in Rwanda for the time being, and that means eight fewer permits
As the name suggests, this is a dense forest with steep slopes, so tracking a day in Uganda. Mgahinga is more accessible by public transport than
the gorillas can be quite hard work. Visibility is often poor, and fast film Bwindi (see p531 for more information).
or push processing is necessary for good photographic results.
The trip to Bwindi can be done in a car, but a 4WD is preferable. ARRANGING PERMITS
Public transport dries up within 17km of the park. See p523 for more Assuming the gorillas return to Mgahinga some day, the procedure for
information. arranging permits is the same as at Bwindi (see opposite).
Parc National des Volcans, Rwanda
ILLEGAL GORILLA VISITS This was the place to view the mountain gorillas during the 1980s, but the
We hear occasional reports of illegal gorilla visits in the region. Usually this takes the form of security situation kept it off the travel map for much of the 1990s. How-
tourists bribing rangers into taking them into the mountains to view the gorillas, but it is not ever, the park reopened to visitors in 1999 and has regained its reputation
unknown for rangers to approach tourists – particularly if business is booming and there are as the best place to see the gorillas.
simply no gorilla permits available. This park is where Dian Fossey was based and where the film about
Illegal gorilla visits can increase the animals’ stress levels, which in turn reduces immunity to her work was made. If you want the most authentic gorilla experience,
disease. The threat of increased stress levels should not be underestimated, considering three this may be the place to come, as the towering volcanoes form a breath-
out of 10 gorillas die before adulthood. Although seeing gorillas may be the highlight of your taking backdrop.
trip, the only way illegal visits can be stopped is if visitors play by the rules. Security here is very tight, and an elite military unit guards the park.
Access is quite straightforward from Kigali or southwestern Uganda. The
© Lonely Planet Publications
102 M O U N TA I N G O R I L L A S • • W h e re t o T r a c k t h e G o r i l l a s www.lonelyplanet.com
park is about 13km from Ruhengeri in northwest Rwanda (for more in-
formation, see p583).
ARRANGING PERMITS
As tourism in Rwanda takes off again, it is getting more difficult to get
For more on mountain a permit during the peak seasons of July and August, and December to
gorillas in Rwanda, see January. There are 40 gorilla permits available each day and the cost is
the ORTPN website at US$375, including the park entry fee. You can book a permit with the
www.rwandatourism.com. ORTPN (%576514; www.rwandatourism.com; 1 Blvd de la Revolution; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri,
8am-2pm weekends) in Kigali (see p575) or through Rwandan tour operators
(see p96).
Parc National des Virungas, DR Congo
This is where gorilla tourism began, back in the 1960s, and now it is back
in business at long last. The park closed in 1998 following the kidnapping
of some tourists, but reopened again in 2004. It is currently the easiest
place to pick up a permit in the region, as most tour operators are steering
clear for the time being.
There are two places to track the gorillas, one at Djomba near the
For more on mountain Uganda border and the other at Bukima 40km north of Goma. Djomba
gorillas in DR Congo, see is currently more popular, but Bukima offers more permits. Both are
the Institut Congolais stunning locations with a string of volcanoes behind.
pour le Conservation de Security at the park looks reasonable, but given recent events in DR
la Nature (ICCN) at www Congo, it is probably fair to say that things are less organised than in
.iccnrdc.cd. Rwanda and Uganda. However, the Congolese are trying their best to
attract visitors and deserve support as long as the security situation
remains stable.
ARRANGING PERMITS
Parc National des Virungas is the easiest place to arrange a permit at the
time of writing. There are 36 gorilla permits available each day and the
cost is US$250, including the park entry fee. There are eight permits avail-
able at the Djomba sector and 28 permits available at Bukima. Permits
can be arranged through Backpackers Hostel (%256-41-274767; www.backpackers
.co.ug) in Kampala, the official Uganda representative for gorilla visits in
DR Congo. Coordinator Alex Mujyambere (%256-71-626194; mujaalex@yahoo
.co.uk) journeys up and down to Congo every week. This situation might
change as the DR Congo re-establishes itself as a tourist destination; see
p559 for more details.
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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103
TA N Z A N I A
Tanzania
Few areas of the continent captivate the imagination as does Tanzania. Snowcapped Mt
Kilimanjaro towers majestically over the horizon, flamingos stand sentinel in the salt pans
of Ngorongoro Crater, and the hoof beats of thousands of wildebeest echo over the Ser-
engeti Plains. In many ways, this is the Africa of legend, where hot, dusty afternoons end
abruptly in glorious blazes of sunset and velvet-black star-studded skies enfold the hills,
where Indian Ocean breezes caress white sands and moss-covered ruins of ancient Swahili
city-states dot the shoreline.
Despite all this, Tanzania is remarkably unassuming and low-key, and thus far has remained
enviably untouched by the tribal rivalries and political upheavals that plague many of its
neighbours. While it’s ideal for exploring in combination with the other countries covered
in this book, it also has more than enough attractions to be a journey on its own.
The most popular areas – the northern safari circuit around Arusha and the Zanzibar
Archipelago – have sealed main roads and an array of hotels and restaurants, and are easily
incorporated into a larger East African loop. With more time, and for more adventure, head
south and west, where you’ll soon find yourself well off the beaten path, surrounded by a
Tanzania that is far removed from Western development and amenities.
Wherever you visit, the highlight inevitably winds up being Tanzanians themselves, with
their characteristic warmth, politeness and dignity. Chances are that you’ll want to come
back for more, to which most Tanzanians will say ‘karibu tena’ (welcome again).
FAST FACTS
Area 943,000 sq km
Birthplace of Freddie Mercury; humankind
Capital Dodoma
Country code 255
Famous for Serengeti; Mt Kilimanjaro;
Zanzibar; Julius Nyerere; cloves; chimpanzees
Languages Swahili and English
Money Tanzanian Shilling (TSh);
US$1 = TSh1176; €1 = TSh1424
Population 34.5 million
TA N Z A N I A 104 TA N Z A N I A • • H i g h l i g h t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com TA N Z A N I A • • H i s t o r y 105
TA N Z A N I A
HIGHLIGHTS tional Union (TANU), with the rallying cry of the islands’ Arab population. The sul-
Wildlife Safaris (p91) From world-famous HOW MUCH? of ‘uhuru na umoja’ (freedom and unity). tan was replaced by an entity known as the
Serengeti to remote Katavi, immerse your- Midrange safari US$200 per person One of the first items on TANU’s agenda Zanzibar Revolutionary Council, which was
self in the sounds, scents and rhythms of per day was independence. In 1958 and 1959, TANU- comprised of ASP members and headed by
life in the wild. supported candidates decisively won gen- Abeid Karume.
Plate of ugali TSh500
Exotic Islands (p249) Follow the monsoon eral legislative elections, and in 1959 Britain On 26 April 1964 Nyerere signed an act
winds back through the centuries on Serengeti National Park entry US$50 agreed to the establishment of internal self- of union with Karume, creating the United
Zanzibar, Mafia or Kilwa Kisiwani. per person per entry government, requesting Nyerere to be chief Republic of Tanganyika (renamed the
Majestic Mountains (p250) Scale Mts Kili- Papaya TSh300 minister. On 9 December 1961 Tanganyika United Republic of Tanzania the following
manjaro and Meru or amble past pictur- Short taxi ride TSh1500
became independent and on 9 December October).
esque villages in the Usambara range. 1962 it was established as a republic, with Formation of the union, which was re-
Picture-perfect Beaches (p249) Take your Nyerere as president. sented by many Zanzibaris from the outset,
pick of beach – from idyllic offshore is- LONELY PLANET INDEX On the Zanzibar Archipelago, which had was motivated in part by the then prevail-
lands, the palm-fringed mainland coast been a British protectorate since 1890, the ing spirit of pan-Africanism, and in part as
Litre of petrol TSh1040
or serene inland lakes. main push for independence came from the a cold war response to the ASP’s socialist
Chimpanzees (p250) Meet the chimpanzees Litre of bottled water TSh500 radical Afro-Shirazi Party (ASP). Opposing program.
at Mahale Mountains or Gombe Stream Safari Lager TSh500 the ASP were two minority parties, the Zan- Karume’s government lasted until 1972,
National Parks. zibar & Pemba People’s Party (ZPPP) and when he was assassinated and succeeded
Souvenir T-shirt TSh10,000
the sultanate-oriented Zanzibar Nationalist by Aboud Jumbe. Shortly thereafter, in an
CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO Street snack (mishikaki) TSh200 Party (ZNP), both of which were favoured effort to subdue the ongoing unrest result-
Throughout the country, the coolest months by the British. As a result, at Zanzibari in- ing from the merger of the islands with the
are from June to October and the warm- dependence in December 1963, it was the mainland, Nyerere authorised formation of
est from December to March, but there HISTORY two minority parties that formed the first a one-party state and combined TANU and
are marked regional differences. Along the Tanzania’s history begins with the dawn government. the ASP into a new party known as Chama
coast, conditions are tropical, with high hu- of humankind. Hominid (humanlike) foot- This government did not last long. Within Cha Mapinduzi (CCM; Party of the Revolu-
midity and temperatures averaging between prints unearthed near Olduvai Gorge (p200), a month, a Ugandan immigrant named John tion). This merger, which was ratified in a
25°C and 29°C. On the central highland together with archaeological finds from Okello initiated a violent revolution against new union constitution on 27 April 1977,
plateau, temperatures range from 20°C to Kenya and Ethiopia, show that our earliest the ruling ZPPP-ZNP coalition, leading to marked the beginning of the CCM’s domi-
27°C between June and August, sometimes ancestors may have been roaming the Tan- the toppling of the government and the sul- nance of Tanzanian politics, which endures
dropping lower in more elevated areas such zanian plains and surrounding areas over tan, and the massacre or expulsion of most to this day.
as Njombe, Mbeya and Arusha. Between three million years ago. For more on these
December and March they can soar above and subsequent millennia, and an overview
30°C. See p621 for climate charts for major of colonial-era developments, see p28. TANZANIA TRAVELS
towns. Getting around Tanzania takes time, so it’s best to choose one or two regions and concentrate on
There are two rainy seasons, with the long The Struggle for Independence exploring them well, rather than trying to fit too much into one visit. Here are a few suggestions.
rains (masika) from mid-March to May, and The earliest seeds of Tanzanian independ-
the short rains (mvuli) during November, ence can be traced to the Maji Maji rebellion One Week
December and into January. of 1905 (see p235). During the following Arriving in Dar es Salaam, spend a day there getting oriented, a couple of nights at Saadani Game
Tanzania can be visited during all sea- decades, the nationalist movement in Tan- Reserve or Mikumi National Park and the remainder of the week on Zanzibar. For a week starting
sons, but the best time to travel is between ganyika – as mainland Tanzania was then in Arusha, divide your time between a couple of the northern-circuit parks; split it between
late June and October, when the rains have known – gradually solidified. Farmers’ co- a wildlife safari and a few days hiking near Lushoto; or spend a day or two in or near Arusha
finished and the air is coolest. However, operatives began to play an increasingly im- and the rest of the week in and around the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.
this is also when hotels and park lodges portant political role, and soon Tanganyika’s
are full and airfares most expensive. From fledgling political scene was dominated by Two Weeks
late December to February there are fewer the Tanganyika Africa Association (TAA), For the classic bush-and-beach itinerary, spend a week on the northern-safari circuit or climbing
tourists, though temperatures are higher which served as a channel for grass-roots Kilimanjaro, followed by a week chilling out on Zanzibar. Alternatively, you can expand on the
and many hotels charge high-season sur- resentment against colonial policies. itineraries suggested under ‘One Week’: stay longer on Zanzibar; go to Pemba; relax on the
pluses around the holidays. During the In 1953 the TAA elected a teacher named beaches around Pangani en route to/from the Usambaras.
March through May rainy season, you Julius Nyerere as its president. Under his
can often save substantially on accommo- leadership, the TAA was quickly trans- One Month
dation costs, have things to yourself and formed into an effective political organi- With a month, combine any of the above itineraries; travel between Lake Victoria and northern
enjoy landscapes that are green and full sation. A new internal constitution was or northeastern Tanzania via the western Serengeti; make your way southwest between Morogoro
of life. The downside is that some second- introduced on 7 July 1954 (an anniversary and Mbeya with stops en route at Mikumi and Ruaha National Parks; or follow the coast south,
ary roads are impassable and many coastal now celebrated as Saba Saba Day) and the with stops in Kilwa, Lindi, Mikindani and Mtwara.
hotels close. TAA became the Tanganyika African Na-
TA N Z A N I A
0 200 km
TANZANIA 0 120 miles
To Kisangani Mubende Jinja To Lodwar
Mt Stanley To Soroti
(5109m)
Tanzania
KAMPALA
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Mt Kenya Mogadishu
106 TA N Z A N I A
UGANDA (5199m)
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Grumeti Ikorongo Magadi
Rubondo B6 GR GR Lobo
Island NP Bunda
Gitarama KIGALI Ukerewe
ὈὈ Ὀ Butare
Kibungo
Rusumu
Burigi GR
Biharamulo Mwanza
Nansio Speke
Gulf
Gru
me
ti River
Serengeti
Seronera
Lake
Natron Namanga
KENYA
Falls GR Sengerema NP Ngorongoro
Biharamulo Magu
Maswa CA ds
Kobero Geita an Mt
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Lusahunga B163 ig River
Maswa H (5896m)
GR Ngorongoro Mt Meru
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Lake Manyara
Mbulu
Makuyuni
Kwa Kuchinja
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B8 Kigosi Lake 4°S
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Tarangire Same
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Nzega Babati NP Sambu
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Mt Hanang GR
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Makamba Moyowosi Sekenke (1570m) B1
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Mnazi Mmoja
ar
Kasama (Mingoyo) B2
Livi n
Mtwara
M o un
Mb
Nachingwea Mikindani
ὈὈ ὈὈὈ Livingstonia Msangesi
GR
B5
Makonde Kilambo
tain s
g ston e
A19 Masasi Plateau
Songea Palma
Nangomba
Liuli Lukwika- Newala
Lak
Lake Lumesule GR
e
Bangweulu Mbamba Bay Tunduru Moçimboa
Ri v
Mzuzu Nkhata Chiwanda e da Praia
er
Masuguru
r
iv
Bay
R
a
Lupilichi R uv u m a Mueda
w
ὈὈὈ Mpika
ng
Nya
LEGEND 12°S
L ua
sa
CA Conservation Area Cóbuè
GR Game Reserve
NP National Park
NR National Reserve
Metangula
(Lake
MOZAMBIQUE
Kanona MALAWI Metoro Pemba
Mfuwe
ὈὈ
Montepuez
Malaw
Lichinga
i)
To Kapiri
Mposhi Chipata
To Lusaka To Blantyre To Nampula
LILONGWE
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The Great Socialist Experiment from Nyerere and his policies, and instituted the mainland and between the mainland
Nyerere took the helm of a country that an economic recovery program. Yet the pace and the Zanzibar Archipelago. The tensions GOVERNMENTAL AFFAIRS
was economically foundering and politi- of change remained slow, and Mwinyi’s involving the archipelago are perhaps the In Tanzania’s fledgling multiparty demo-
cally fragile, its stability plagued in particu- presidency was unpopular. The fall of Eu- most visible example. Yet – the Zanzibar cracy, executive power rests with the presi-
lar by the mainland’s lack of control over ropean communism in the early 1990s, and situation notwithstanding – Tanzania as a dent and the ruling Chama Cha Mapinduzi
the Zanzibar Archipelago. Education had pressure from Western donor nations, accel- whole remains reasonably well integrated, (CCM; Party of the Revolution). The presi-
also been neglected, so that at independ- erated the move towards multiparty politics, with comparatively high levels of religious dent and members of the unicameral 295-
ence there were said to be only a handful of and in 1992 the constitution was amended to and ethnic tolerance, particularly on the seat National Assembly are elected by direct
university graduates in the entire country. legalise opposition parties. mainland. Tanzanians have earned a name popular vote for five-year terms. The major
This inauspicious beginning eventually The first elections were held in October for themselves in the region for their mod- opposition party is the Civic United Front
led to the Arusha Declaration of 1967, which 1995 in an atmosphere of chaos. On the main- eration and balance, and most observers (CUF).
committed Tanzania to a policy of socialism land, the CCM, under Benjamin Mkapa, won consider it highly unlikely that the country The union government has jurisdiction
and self-reliance. The policy’s cornerstone 62% of the vote in relatively smooth ballot- would disintegrate into the tribal conflicts over foreign and monetary policy, postal
was the ujamaa (familyhood) village – an ing. On the Zanzibar Archipelago, however, that have plagued some of its neighbours. and telecommunications systems and de-
agricultural collective run along traditional the voting for the Zanzibari presidency was On the political front, President Mkapa fence, while the Zanzibar government is
African lines, with an emphasis on self- universally denounced for its dishonesty. was constitutionally prevented from seek- responsible for education, infrastructure and
reliance. Basic goods and tools were to be The opposition Civic United Front (CUF) ing another term in the 2005 presidential other nonunion matters on the islands of
held in common and shared among mem- candidate, Seif Shariff Hamad, was widely elections, which were won in a landslide the Zanzibar Archipelago.
bers, while each individual was obligated to believed to have won the presidential seat by CCM’s Jakaya Kikwete, the former For- Although no serious politicians are cur-
work on the land. despite official results marginally favour- eign Minister. Perhaps more significant is rently calling for a completely independent
In the early days of the ujamaa system, ing CCM incumbent Salmin Amour. In the the future of multiparty politics in Tanza- Zanzibar, most Zanzibaris would be happy
progressive farmers were encouraged to ex- ensuing uproar, foreign development assist- nia. If anything, this seems to have taken with a bit more autonomy and a larger share
pand in the hope that other peasants would ance was suspended and most expatriates several steps backwards in recent years with of the pie than they now have. In early
follow their example. This approach proved working on the islands left. entrenchment of the CCM and splintering 2005 the archipelago even began flying
unrealistic, and was abandoned in favour In October 2000 the elections proceeded of the opposition. Progressing beyond this its own flag.
of direct state control. Between 1973 and without incident on the mainland, with a situation may result in some growing pains
1978, 85% of Tanzania’s rural population decisive victory for incumbent president in the short term. However, chances are
was resettled, often forcibly, into over 7000 Mkapa and the CCM. On Zanzibar, how- high that Tanzania will continue to move get this and launch straight into a question
planned villages in an effort to modernise ever, the balloting was again highly con- forward, maintaining the stable and moder- without first enquiring as to the wellbeing
the agricultural sector and improve access troversial. In January 2001 the CUF called ate outlook that has characterised its devel- of your listener and his or her family. Tan-
to social services. Yet this approach was also for demonstrations to protest the results. opment since independence. zanian children are trained to greet their
unsuccessful, and resentment towards com- The government declared the demonstra- elders with a respectful shikamoo (literally,
pulsory resettlement was widespread. tions illegal, but they were held anyway. THE CULTURE ‘I hold your feet’), often accompanied in
Tanzania’s experiment in socialism was On Pemba, a CUF stronghold where dem- The National Psyche rural areas by a slight curtsey, and strangers
widely acclaimed in the days following in- onstrators greatly outnumbered the police, It takes a lot to ruffle a Tanzanian, and it’s are frequently addressed as dada (sister);
dependence, and is credited with unifying government security units responded with to this fact that the country’s remarkably mama, in the case of an older woman; kaka
the country and expanding education and force, resulting in at least several dozen harmonious and understated demeanour is (brother); or ndugu (relative or comrade).
health care. Economically, however, it was deaths and causing many Pembans to tem- attributable. In contrast to Kenya and other
a failure. Per capita income plummeted, porarily flee the island. neighbours, tribal rivalries are almost non- Daily Life
agricultural production stagnated and in- In the wake of the violence, the CCM and existent. It’s rare for a Tanzanian to identify Want to take a peek inside a Tanzanian
dustry limped along at less than 50% of CUF initiated renewed attempts to reach themselves at the outset according to tribe; home? First call out ‘hodi’, then wait for the
capacity. The decline was precipitated by agreement through dialogue. An accord primary identification is always as a Tanza- inevitable ‘karibu’ (welcome), and step in-
a combination of factors, including steeply was signed aimed at ending the strife on nian, and the ujamaa ideals of Julius Nyerere side. Although you’ll see some impressive,
rising oil prices, the 1977 break-up of the the archipelago and negotiating a long-term permeate society. Religious frictions are also Western-style houses in posh residential
East African Community (an economic and solution to the crisis. However, progress on minimal, with Christians and Muslims living areas of Dar es Salaam, home for most Tan-
customs union between Tanzania, Kenya this front has been only modest at best, and side by side in a relatively easy coexistence. zanians is of cinderblock or mudbrick, with
and Uganda) and sharp drops in the value tensions have continued to simmer, reaching Although political differences flare up – look roofing of corrugated tin or thatch, a latrine
of coffee and sisal exports. another critical point on Zanzibar following at recent events on the Zanzibar Archipelago outside and water drawn from a nearby
balloting in late 2005. (opposite) – they rarely come to the fore- pump or river. Mealtimes typically centre
Democracy Debuts front in interpersonal dealings. around a pot of ugali (the stiff and doughy
Nyerere was re-elected to a fifth term in Tanzania Today The workings of society are oiled by a maize- and/or cassava-based national dish)
1980, amid continuing dissatisfaction with One of the effects that the introduction of subtle but strong social code. Tanzanians or a similar staple served with sauce, and
the socialist experiment. In 1985 he resigned, multiparty politics had on Tanzanian life place a premium on politeness and courtesy. rural rhythms set the beat, with women and
handing over power to Zanzibari Ali Hassan was the unmasking of underlying political, Greetings are essential, and you’ll probably children spending much of their day work-
Mwinyi. Mwinyi tried to distance himself economic and religious frictions, both on be given a gentle reminder should you for- ing a small shamba (farm plot).
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As elsewhere in the region, family life Almost as well-known as Robert is Zanzi- with most corresponding to particular tribes
plays a central role, although it’s sometimes AFRICA’S MELTING POT bari Muhammed Said Abdulla, who gained or dances.
hard to know where the family ends and the Tanzania is the only African country boast- fame with his Mzimu wa watu wa kale Thanks to state subsidies, Tanzania’s
community begins. Doors are always open, ing indigenous inhabitants from all of the (Graveyard of the Ancestors), and is consid- music scene has traditionally been one of
helping out others in the jamaa (clan, com- continent’s main ethnolinguistic families ered the founder of Swahili popular literature. the most dynamic in the region, with many
munity) is assumed, and celebrations involve (Bantu, Nilo-Hamitic, Cushitic, Khoisan). They Other notable authors of Swahili-language bands that start here later going on to play
everyone. Child-raising is the expected oc- live in closest proximity around Lakes Eyasi works include Zanzibari novelist Shafi Adam at nightclubs in Nairobi and elsewhere. One
cupation for women, and breadwinning for and Babati, in north-central Tanzania. Shafi, short-story writer Joseph Mbele and of the country’s most famous musicians is
men. Village administrators (known as shehe dramatist Ebrahim Hussein. Remmy Ongala (‘Dr Remmy’); for more on
on Zanzibar) oversee things, and make impor- One of Tanzania’s most widely acclaimed Ongala and his Orchestre Super Matimila,
tant decisions in consultation with other sen- trated in major cities and along the coast, contemporary writers is Abdulrazak Gur- see p39. Other well-known groups include
ior community members. Tribal structures, plus a small European community. nah, who was born on Zanzibar in 1948. His Mlimani Park and its offshoot International
however, range from weak to nonexistent – Tanzania is one of the least urbanised novel Paradise, which is set in East Africa Orchestra Safari Sound (IOSS). A popular
a legacy of Nyerere’s abolishment of local countries in sub-Saharan Africa, with urban during WWI, made the short list for the figure from the 1970s was Patrick Balisidya.
chieftaincies following independence. dwellers constituting only about one-third UK’s Booker Prize in 1994. In addition to his Afro 70 band, Balisidya,
While Tanzania’s 8% adult HIV/AIDS of the total population. However, the num- Other contemporary Tanzanian authors who died in 2004, was known for his song
infection rate has prompted a spate of bill- ber of city dwellers is steadily growing, at of English-language works include Peter ‘Harusi’, which is still a staple at Tanzanian
boards and public awareness campaigns, about 4.9% per year in Dar es Salaam. Av- Palangyo, who wrote the novel Dying in the weddings.
real public discussion is limited, and AIDS erage population density is 39 people per Sun; William Kamera (known for his poetry See p39 for more on local music. See
deaths are commonly explained away as tu- square kilometre, although this varies radi- and for Tales of the Wairaqw of Tanzania); p142 for more on taarab music.
berculosis, or with silence. cally from one area to the next. Among the and Tolowa Marti Mollel, who has authored The main place for masked dance is in the
most densely populated areas are Dar es many short stories, including The Orphan southeast, where it plays an important role
Population Salaam and the surrounding coast, the Us- Boy, a retelling of a local Maasai legend. May in the initiation ceremonies of the Makonde
Tanzania’s heart pulses with the blood of ambara and Pare Mountains, the slopes of Balisidya, who authored the novel Shida (who are famous for their mapiko masks)
close to 120 tribal groups, plus Asians, Arabs, Mt Kilimanjaro, the Mwanza region, and the (Hardships) as well as several plays and chil- and the Makua.
Europeans and more. Despite the diversity, Zanzibar Archipelago. dren’s books, was one of the few first-genera-
most tribes are very small, with almost 100 tion women writers of Swahili literature. Painting
of them combined accounting for only one- RELIGION Tanzania’s best-known school of painting is
third of the total population. About 35% to 40% of Tanzanians are Mus- Music & Dance Tingatinga, which takes its name from the
The vast majority of Tanzanians are of lim and between 40% and 45% are Chris- One of the most common traditional musical self-taught artist Edward Saidi Tingatinga,
Bantu origin, the largest groups including tian. The remainder follow traditional instruments is the kayamba (a shaker made who began it in the 1960s in response to de-
the Sukuma (who live around Mwanza religions. There are also small communities with grain kernels that’s frequently used by mand from the European market. Tingat-
and southern Lake Victoria), the Makonde of Hindus, Sikhs and Ismailis. Muslims are church choirs and other groups to accom- inga paintings are traditionally composed
(southeastern Tanzania), the Haya (around traditionally found along the coast and in pany singing). Others include the mbira (a in a square format, and feature brightly
Bukoba) and the Chagga (around Mt Kili- the inland towns that line the old caravan type of thumb piano with metal strips of coloured animal motifs set against a mono-
manjaro). The Maasai and several smaller routes. One of the areas of highest Christian varying lengths), the marimba (xylophone) chrome background. One of the most dis-
groups (all in northern Tanzania) are of concentration is in the northeast around and, of course, ngoma (drums). Drums are tinctive characteristics of the style is its use
Nilo-Hamitic or Nilotic origin. The Iraqw, Moshi, which has been a centre of mission- found in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, of undiluted and often unmixed enamel and
who live in the area around Karatu and ary activity since the mid-19th century.
northwest of Lake Manyara, are Cushitic, The population of the Zanzibar Archipel-
as are the tiny northern-central tribes of ago is almost exclusively Sunni Muslim, with BACK TO BASICS
Gorowa and Burungi, while the Sandawe tiny Christian and Hindu communities. Tanzania has one of the lowest rates of secondary-school enrolment in the world, with less than
and, more distantly, the Hadzabe (around 7% of students enrolled. Yet, despite this rather shocking statistic, literacy rates in Tanzania (which
Lake Eyasi), belong to the Khoisan ethno- ARTS average about 70% for adults) are somewhat higher than those in many neighbouring countries.
linguistic family. Literature This is due in large part to the legacy of Julius Nyerere, who was convinced that the key to
About 3% of Tanzania’s total population, Tanzania’s literary scene is dominated by success for his philosophy of socialism and self-reliance lay in having an educated populace.
or about one million people, live on the Zan- renowned poet and writer Shaaban Rob- During the early years of his presidency he set aside 14% of the national budget for education,
zibar Archipelago, with about one-third of ert (1909–62). Robert, who was born near offered government assistance to villages to build their own schools and made primary education
these on Pemba. Members of the non-Af- Tanga, is considered the country’s national free and compulsory. By the late 1980s Tanzania’s literacy rate was one of the highest in Africa,
rican population consider themselves de- poet, and was almost single-handedly re- although much of this initial momentum has since been lost.
scendants of immigrants from Shiraz in sponsible for the development of a modern Today Tanzania’s educational system is loosely modelled on that of Britain. There are seven
Persia (Iran). Filling out Tanzania’s melting Swahili prose style. Among his best-known years of primary school, which are free and – in theory – compulsory, plus four years of secondary
pot are small but economically significant works are the autobiographical Maisha school with an additional two years required for university entrance. Primary-school instruction
Asian (primarily from the Indian subcon- yangu (My Life), and several collections of is in Swahili, while secondary-level and university instruction is in English.
tinent) and Arabic populations, concen- folk tales.
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high-gloss paints, which give the paintings lying coastal strip, and in the northwest is Away from the mountain ranges, much of Selous Game Reserves are given in those
their characteristic shiny appearance. the enormous, shallow Lake Victoria basin. the country is covered by miombo or ‘moist’ sections. For general information on park
The best place to buy Tingatinga paint- Tanzania’s mountain ranges are grouped woodland, where the main vegetation is vari- accommodation, see p249.
ings is at the Tingatinga Arts Cooperative into a sharply rising northeastern section ous types of Brachystegia tree. Much of the
Society (p124) near Morogoro Stores in Dar (the Eastern Arc), and an open, rolling dry central plateau is covered with savanna, US$ US$
es Salaam. Other good spots include Msasani central and southern section (the Southern bushland and thickets, while grasslands cover Accommodation (16 yrs +) (5-15 yrs)
Slipway (p124), also in Dar es Salaam, and Highlands or Southern Arc). There is also the Serengeti Plain and other areas that lack
the vendors along Hurumzi St in Zanzibar’s a range of volcanoes, known as the Crater good drainage. Ordinary camp site 30 5
Stone Town. Highlands, that rises from the side of the Special camp site 50 10
Mawazo Art Gallery (p123) and Wasanii Great Rift Valley in northern Tanzania. National Parks & Reserves Hostel 10 -
Art Centre (Msasani Slipway, Dar es Salaam) are among The largest river is the Rufiji, which Tanzania’s unrivalled collection of protected Resthouse (Serengeti, 30 (Gombe -
the best places to get acquainted with the drains the Southern Highlands region. areas includes 14 national parks, 13 wild- Arusha, Ruaha, Katavi) Stream 20)
contemporary Tanzanian art scene. Nyumba Other major waterways include the Ruvu, life reserves, the Ngorongoro Conservation Banda or Hut 20 (Mt Kilimanjaro -
ya Sanaa (p124) also hosts exhibitions by the Wami, the Pangani and the Ruvuma Area (NCA), two marine parks and several 50)
contemporary Tanzanian artists. (forming the border with Mozambique). protected marine reserves.
Until recently, development and tour- Other costs include guide fees of US$10 per
Cinema Wildlife ism have focused almost exclusively on the day (US$15 for overnight and US$20 for
Despite its miniscule size, Tanzania’s indi- ANIMALS so-called northern circuit: Serengeti, Lake walking safaris) and vehicle fees of US$40 per
genous film industry holds its own with Among Tanzania’s more than four million Manyara, Tarangire, Arusha and Kiliman- day for a foreign-registered car (TSh10,000
those of other countries in the region. See wild animals are representatives of 430 spe- jaro National Parks and the NCA. As a re- for a Tanzania-registered car).
p38 for more. cies and subspecies, including all the ‘classic’ sult, all of these places are easily accessible,
In addition to the Tanzanian-produced African animals mentioned under Wildlife well equipped with facilities and heavily WILDLIFE RESERVES
titles mentioned in that section, films shot on p73. Tanzania is particularly notable for visited. In addition to the natural beauty, With the exception of Saadani, which is a
at least in part in Tanzania include the its elephant population, which is one of the the northern circuit’s main attractions are national park in everything but name, and
1951 classic The African Queen, starring largest on the continent, and for its large the high concentration, diversity and acces- is managed by Tanapa, wildlife reserves are
Katharine Hepburn and Humphrey Bogart; cats, especially lions, which are routinely sibility of its wildlife. administered by the Wildlife Division of the
and Mogambo (1953), with Clark Gable, Ava seen in Serengeti National Park (p193) and The ‘southern circuit’ – Ruaha, Mikumi Ministry of Natural Resources & Tourism (%022-
Gardner and Grace Kelly. Ngorongoro Crater (p199). The country is and Udzungwa Mountains National Parks 286 6376, 022-286 6064; cnr Nyerere & Changombe Rds, Dar
Numerous documentaries about Tanza- also known for the large herds of wildebeest and the Selous Game Reserve – has been re- es Salaam). Fees – see individual listings for
nia’s wildlife have been filmed on location, and zebras found especially in its northern ceiving increasing attention, although it still details – should be paid in US dollars cash.
including Africa: The Serengeti (1994), which parks, and for its buffalo herds. Katavi and doesn’t see close to the number of visitors Saadani and Selous are the only reserves
was shot in both Tanzania and Kenya, and Ruaha National Parks host populations of that the north does. Most areas tend to have with tourist infrastructure. Large areas of
focuses on the annual wildebeest migration. both roan and sable antelopes. more of a wilderness feel and the wildlife is many others have been leased as hunting
Complementing this terrestrial wealth just as impressive, although it’s often spread concessions.
Sculpture & Woodcarving are over 1000 species of birds, including over larger areas.
Tanzania’s Makonde are known throughout various types of kingfisher, hornbills (around In western Tanzania are Mahale Moun- MARINE PARKS & RESERVES
East Africa for their beautiful and highly Amani), bee-eaters (along the Rufiji and tains and Gombe Stream National Parks, The Ministry of Natural Resources & Tour-
stylised ebony woodcarvings; see p40. The Wami rivers), fish eagles (Lake Victoria) and where the main drawcards are the chimpan- ism’s Marine Parks & Reserves Unit (%022-215
country’s major centres of Makonde carving flamingos (Lake Magadi in the Ngorongoro zees, and remote Katavi National Park, with 0420, 022-215 0621; [email protected]; Olympio St,
are in the southeast on the Makonde Plateau Crater, and Lake Natron, among other its large herds of wildlife. Rubondo Island Upanga, Dar es Salaam) oversees marine parks and
and in Dar es Salaam. places). Species unique to Tanzania include National Park in Lake Victoria is of particu- reserves. For information on Tanzania’s ma-
the Udzungwa forest partridge, the Pemba lar interest to bird-watchers. Saadani Game rine parks, see p240 and p247.
ENVIRONMENT green pigeon and the Usambara weaver. For Reserve lets you mix beach and bush.
The Land more on endangered species, see p74. For an overview of the major parks and Environmental Issues
Tanzania – East Africa’s largest country – is reserves, see p76. Although Tanzania has one of the highest
over 943,000 sq km, or almost four times PLANTS proportions of protected land of any African
the size of the UK. It’s bordered to the east If you’re interested in plants, few places on NATIONAL PARKS country (about 39% is protected in some
by the Indian Ocean, and to the west by the continent surpass Tanzania’s Eastern Arc All parks are managed by the Tanzania Na- form, including several Unesco World Heri-
the deep lakes of the Western Rift Valley. range, where small patches of tropical rain- tional Parks Authority (Tanapa; %027-250 3471, 027- tage sites, see p25), limited resources ham-
Much of the mainland consists of a cen- forest provide home to a rich assortment of 250 4082; www.tanzaniaparks.com). Entry fees – see per conservation efforts, and erosion, soil
tral highland plateau, averaging between plants, many of which are found nowhere else individual park listings for details – must be degradation, desertification and deforesta-
900m and 1800m in altitude, and nestled in the world. South and west of the Eastern paid in hard currency, preferably US dollars tion continue to whittle away at the natural
between the eastern and western branches Arc range are impressive stands of baobab. cash. For accommodation and guide fees, wealth. According to some estimates, Tanza-
of the geological fault known as the Great Kitulo National Park – bursting with over 50 see the following table. Guide and vehicle nia loses 3500 sq km of forest land annually
Rift Valley. Edging this is a narrow, low- orchid species – is another highlight. fees for Ngorongoro Crater and Saadani and as a result of agricultural and commercial
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clearing. In the national parks, poaching array of beers includes the local Safari and ORIENTATION For something smaller, try one of the free
and inappropriate visitor use – especially in Kilimanjaro labels, plus Castle Lager and The congested centre, with banks, forex bu- maps at the tourist information centre.
the northern circuit – threaten wildlife and various Kenyan and German beers. Find- reaus, shops and street vendors, runs along
ecosystems. Deforestation is also a problem ing a beer is usually no problem, but – as Samora Ave from the clock tower to the INFORMATION
on the offshore islands, with about 95% of elsewhere in the region – finding one cold Askari monument. The area northwest of Bookshops
the tropical high forest that once covered can be a challenge. Samora Ave, around India and Jamhuri Sts, A Novel Idea (%260 1088; www.anovelidea-africa.com)
Zanzibar and Pemba now gone. Dynamite is chock-a-block with Indian traders and Msasani Slipway (Map p116; Msasani Slipway, Msasani Penin-
fishing has also been a serious threat, both
on the archipelago and in mainland coastal
areas, although significant progress has been
DAR ES SALAAM scents from the subcontinent. West of Mnazi
Mmoja Park are the rougher but colourful
neighbourhoods of Kariakoo and Ilala.
sula); Sea Cliff Village (Map p116; Sea Cliff Village, next to Sea
Cliff Hotel, Msasani Peninsula); Steers (Map p118; cnr Ohio St
& Samora Ave) Dar’s best bookshop, with classics, modern
made in halting this practice. %022 On the other side of town, northeast of fiction, travel guides, Africa titles, maps and more.
On the positive side, great progress has With a population of nearly three million Askari monument, are shady, tree-lined
been made in recent years to involve com- and an area of more than 1350 sq km, Dar es streets with the National Museum, Botanical Cultural Centres
munities directly in conservation, and local Salaam is Tanzania’s major city, and capital Gardens and State House. Proceeding north Alliance Française (Map p116; %213 1406; afdar@
communities are now stakeholders in sev- in everything but name. Yet, despite its size, from here along the coast, you first reach the africaonline.co.tz; Ali Hassan Mwinyi Rd)
eral lodges and other tourist developments. Dar es Salaam is a down-to-earth, manage- upper-middle class section of Upanga and British Council (Map p118; %211 6574/5; www
The best local contact on environmental able place, with a picturesque seaport, an in- then, after crossing Selander Bridge, the fast- .britishcouncil.org/tanzania; cnr Ohio St & Samora Ave)
issues is the Wildlife Conservation Society of Tan- triguing mix of African, Arabic and Indian developing diplomatic and upmarket resi- Nyumba ya Sanaa (Mwalimu Julius K Nyerere Cultural
zania Arusha (www.wcstarusha.org; Boma St); Dar es Salaam influences, and close ties to its Swahili roots. dential areas of Oyster Bay and Msasani. Centre; Map p118; Ohio St)
(%022-211 2518; [email protected]; Garden Ave). For While there’s not too much to actually do, The city’s main stretch of sand is at Coco
more on what you can do to help, see p19. there are enough historic buildings, shops Beach, near Oyster Bay, but much better Emergency
and good restaurants to keep most visitors beaches to the south and north are only a Central police station (Map p118; %211 5507;
FOOD & DRINK busy for at least several days. short jaunt away. Sokoine Dr) Near the Central Line Railway Station.
Tanzania’s unofficial national dish is ugali. For a break from the bustle, try the easily Flying Doctors/Amref (Map p118; %211 6610,
For more on this and other local cuisine see accessed beaches north and south of town Maps Nairobi emergency %254-20-315454, 254-20-602492;
p41. Other favourites – most more appeal- (see p126), or head to Zanzibar – just a short The Dar es Salaam City Map & Guide, put www.amref.org; Ali Hassan Mwinyi Rd, Upanga) For
ing to foreign palates than ugali – include ferry ride away. out by the Surveys & Mapping Division Map Sales emergency evacuations; see p625 for membership details.
mishikaki, mtindi and mgando. Mishikaki Office (Map p118; cnr Kivukoni Front & Luthuli St; h8am- Oyster Bay police station (Map p118; %266 7332;
(marinated meat kebabs) are found almost HISTORY 2pm Mon-Fri), is widely available and gives a Toure Dr) North of Coco Beach; for Msasani Peninsula.
everywhere, grilled over the coals at street Until the mid-19th century, what is now good overview of the street layout, though it’s Traffic police (Map p118; %211 1747; Sokoine Dr)
stalls. Refreshing mtindi and mgando, cul- Dar es Salaam was just a humble fishing unwieldy to manage while walking around. Near the Central Line Railway Station.
tured milk products similar to yogurt, are village, one of many along the East African
usually drunk with a straw out of plastic coast. In the 1860s Sultan Sayyid Majid of
bags. Many Tanzanians start their day with Zanzibar decided to develop the area’s in- SKIP DAR ES SALAAM?
uji, a thin, sweet porridge made from bean, land harbour into a port and trading centre, It’s quite easy these days to bypass Dar es Salaam entirely by using Kilimanjaro International
millet or other flour. Watch for ladies stir- and named the site Dar es Salaam (Haven Airport (KIA), or by flying into Entebbe (Uganda) or Nairobi (Kenya), and then entering Tanzania
ring bubbling pots of it on the street corners of Peace). No sooner had development of overland. Even if you’re combining the northern circuit parks with Zanzibar, it’s not usually neces-
if you are out in the early morning. Vitam- the harbour begun, than the sultan died sary to overnight in Dar es Salaam thanks to frequent flights and ferry connections. If you do find
bua – small rice cakes vaguely resembling and the town sunk again into anonymity, yourself here for the night and are unhappy about the prospect, the beaches north and south of
tiny, thick pancakes – are another morning overshadowed by Bagamoyo, an important the city (p126) are easily accessed, and have plenty of accommodation possibilities.
treat, especially in the southeast. On Zanzi- dhow port to the north. It wasn’t until the Yet, while you’ll find few people raving about the city, it’s really not that bad, especially com-
bar, look for mkate wa kumimina, a bread 1880s that Dar es Salaam assumed new pared with other African urban areas. Many long-term visitors would – albeit grudgingly – even
made from a batter similar to that used for significance, first as a station for Christian admit to a certain affection for it. Away from the congestion, noise and some moderately aggres-
making vitambua. missionaries making their way from Zan- sive moneychangers in the central area, ‘Dar’ is a laid-back place at heart, with a notably slower
In major towns, there’s a good selection of zibar to the interior, and then as a seat for pace and softer edge than nearby Nairobi. Dar es Salaam also merits a visit if you’re interested
places to eat, ranging from local food stalls to the German colonial government, which in understanding Tanzania, as it’s the country’s political and economic hub. On a practical level,
Western-style restaurants. In smaller towns viewed Dar es Salaam’s protected har- it’s a good place to stock up and get things done if you’ve been on the road for a while.
you’re likely to just find hoteli (small, in- bour as a better alternative for steamships The central area is dominated by concrete and an ever-increasing number of glitzy high-rise
formal restaurants) serving chicken, beef or than the dhow port in Bagamoyo. In 1891 buildings, although everything’s still relatively small-scale and manageable, even on foot. In the
fish with rice or another staple. The main the colonial administration was officially outlying neighbourhoods to the south and west the mood changes, with unassuming Swahili-
meal is at noon; in rural areas, many places moved from Bagamoyo to Dar es Salaam. style houses lining unpaved roadways, small markets, patches of coconut palms in the areas
are closed in the evening, and often the only Since then the city has remained Tanzania’s near the coast, and a generally languid atmosphere. To the north, on Msasani Peninsula, you’ll
option is street food. undisputed political and economic capital, be treated to sea breezes and glimpses of the water, and it’s easy to forget you’re in one of East
Bottled water and soft drinks are widely although the legislature was transferred to Africa’s major metropolises.
sold; tap water should be avoided. Tanzania’s Dodoma in 1973.
ὈὈ
116 D A R E S S A L A A M www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D A R E S S A L A A M • • I n f o r m a t i o n 117
Dar es Salaam
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
DAR ES SALAAM 0
0 1 mile
2 km
Immigration Office Jamani Forex Bureau (International Arrivals Area,
Wizara ya mambo ya ndani (Map p118; %211 8640/3; Airport; hopen for all flights) Straight ahead as you exit
A B C D cnr Ghana Ave & Ohio St; h8am-1pm Mon-Fri for visa
ὈὈ
customs; cash and travellers cheques.
Msasani
INFORMATION Peninsula INFORMATION (cont) applications, until 3pm for visa collection) National Bank of Commerce (NBC; Map p118; cnr
A Novel Idea............................(see 29) Italian Embassy.............................7 B5
A Novel Idea............................(see 30) Kearsley Travel.........................(see 30)
Azikiwe St & Sokoine Dr) Changes cash and travellers
1 Aga Khan Health Clinic............(see 30) Kenyan High Commission............8 A3 Internet Access cheque, and has an ATM.
Alliance Française.......................(see 3) Oyster Bay Police Station..............9 B3
Barclays ATM...........................(see 29) Some Minor Roads Rwandan Embassy.....................10 C5
Alpha Internet Café (Map p118; Garden Ave; per hr Royal Palm Forex Bureau (Map p118; Mövenpick
21
Belgian Embassy...........................1 C5 30 not Depicted Seaside Forex Bureau...............(see 30) TSh500; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Royal Palm Hotel, Ohio St; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat,
Burundian Embassy....................(see 7) Dar es Salaam Standard Chartered ATM.........(see 27)
Hotspot Internet Café (Map p118; Ground fl, JM Mall, 10am-1pm Sun & holidays) Cash and travellers cheques.
ὈὈὈὄ
ὈὈ
Yacht Club Ugandan High Commission........11 B3
Democratic Republic of the 24
Congo Embassy........................2 C5
Masaki
US Embassy...............................12 A3 Samora Ave; per hr TSh1000; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, Seaside Forex Bureau (Map p116; Seacliff Village;
French Embassy............................3 B4
9am-7pm Sat, 9.30am-2pm Sun) h11.30am-6pm) Cash and travellers cheques.
Rd
Indian High Commission..............4 B4 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
ole Kariakoo Market........................13 B6 Kool Surfing (Map p118; per hr TSh500; h8am-10pm
Ch
Irish Embassy................................5 B2
IST Medical Clinic & International
School......................................6 B2 29 SLEEPING Mon-Sat, 9am-10pm Sun) Just off Jamhuri St. ATMS
Akana Lodge............................. 14 A3
Courtyard..................................15 C5
Mealz Internet Café (Map p118; cnr Pamba Rd & Sokoine All ATMs give shillings on a Visa card, to
2 Dr; per hr TSh1000; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) a limit of TSh400,000 per day at Barclays,
Hotel Karibu...............................16 B3
ὈὈὈὄ
ὈὈ
Dr
Msasani Slipway Apartments...(see 29) TSh1,000,000 per week at Standard Char-
ure
Msasani
Msimbazi Centre Hostel............. 17 A6
To
Bay Ruvu St
6
Oyster
Bay
Oyster Bay Hotel........................18 B3 Media tered and TSh300,000 per day at NBC.
Palm Beach Hotel.......................19 B5
5
Protea Dar es Salaam
International newspapers and magazines are Barclays Opposite Mövenpick Royal Palm Hotel and at
Apartments............................20 B3 available from top-end hotels, and some- Msasani Slipway.
Sea Cliff Hotel............................21 C1
32 9 Souk........................................(see 29)
times at newsstands downtown. NBC ATMs at all branches, including at headquarters (cnr
14 Msasani 31
26 Coco Beach Swiss Garden Hotel....................22 B5 Azikiwe St & Sokoine Dr) and next to Ubungo Bus Terminal.
ὈὈ
Mikocheni
16 Ghuba Rd Medical Services Standard Chartered At NIC Life House (cnr Ohio St &
Kim
O Oyster EATING
Oyster 18
Rd
ld
Addis in Dar...............................23 A3 All listings here provide 24-hour emer- Sokoine Dr); Shoppers’ Plaza; JM Mall (Samora Ave); and
wer
Bay Bay
27
ni
Bag a
12 Garden Bistro..............................24 B1
i Ave
Msasa
Rd
3 25 11 gency service. next to Holiday Inn (Garden Ave).
mo La Trattoria Jan...........................25 B3
ssie
Ursino St
23 yo
8 Saverio's....................................26 A3 Aga Khan Health Clinic (Map p116; %260 1484, 24hr
Sela
Rd
Shopper's Plaza & Shopper's
Supermarket..........................27 A3 0748-911111; Seacliff Village, Msasani Peninsula; h8am- Post
Haile
New Bagamoy
o Rd Namanga
St Peter's
Shoprite...................................(see 29)
Sweet Eazy..............................(see 18)
12.30pm & 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri, or by appointment) Western Main post office (Map p118; Maktaba St; h8am-
20
doctors on call. 4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Stamps, letters and poste
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
To Village Museum (1km); Church Turquoise.................................(see 30)
Ras hidi Kawawa Rd
Lions Club (1.5km); Mwenge
Carvers' Market (3.5km); IST Medical Clinic (Map p116; %260 1307/8, 24hr restante.
Ali
New World Cinema (3.7km); ENTERTAINMENT
University of Dar es Salaam Dr 0744-783393; [email protected]; Ruvu St; h8am-
Ha
da California Dreamers....................28 B4
(7km); Northern Beaches (25km) un
ssa
Kinondoni Ka New Msasani Club...................(see 12)
6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) A Western-run clinic found Telephone
Dr
nM
on the Masaki campus of the International School of Cardphones are everywhere, including in
win
SHOPPING
a
t
nyat
yi R
4 4 Msasani Slipway.........................29 B2
Ke
Kinondoni
Rd
3
Msimbazi Seacliff Village............................30 B1 Tanganyika. front of Extelecoms House and the main
d
ee k
Bay Tingatinga Centre & Morogoro Regency Medical Centre (Map p118; %215 0500, post office. Cards are sold during business
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
Ὀ
Stores.....................................31 B3
hours at nearby shops.
r
Selander 215 2966; Allykhan St) In Upanga, just off Bibi Titi Moham-
l a n der C
Bridge
28
TRANSPORT med Rd. Extelecoms House (Map p118; cnr Bridge St & Samora
Daladala Junction & Taxi Stands..32 B3
Daladalas to Kisarawe................33 B6 Ave; h7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) Operator-
Se
19
To Ubungo Bus Station (6km);
Chalinze (110km); Morogoro 7
10 15 Evergreen Car Rentals................34 B6 Money placed calls from US$2.50 per minute to USA, Europe and
Rd
Scandinavian Bus Terminal.........35 B6
Mindu St
(195km); Mikumi National
Forex bureaus give the fastest service and Australia.
Nations
Park (245km); Arusha (635km) Upanga
1
best rates for exchange; there are many scat-
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
Mo
rogo
ro R 22 tered around the centre of town on or near Tourist Information
d
2
ite
d
5 Samora Ave. What’s Happening in Dar es Salaam is a free
Un
See Central Dar es Salaam Map (p118)
To Zanzibar;
Dar es
Pemba American Express (Map p118; %211 0960, 211 4094; monthly magazine with tide tables, airline
Rd
Oc
ed Salaam Bay [email protected]; Upanga Rd) At Rickshaw Travels, schedules etc; available from travel agencies
ean
am
oh
M next to Citibank; no cash advances and no replacement of and the tourist information centre. The Dar
Rd
i
i Tit
Bib stolen checks, but issues US-dollar travellers cheques up to es Salaam Guide has more of the same.
Lum
ni St US$1500 against an Amex card. Tanzania Tourist Board Information Centre (Map
umb
Ama
Coastal Travels’ Local Currency Outlet (Map p118; p118; %212 0373, 213 1555; www.tanzania-web.com;
a St
Kariakoo
Ka
13 Central Line
wa
Railway
Upanga Rd; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) With- Samora Ave; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm
Msim
wa
Station
Rd
draw Tanzanian shillings (or dollars, for an additional 6% Sat) Just west of Zanaki St, with free tourist maps and
baz
Ilala 17
i S
6 34
commission) using Visa or MasterCard. Up to US$500 per brochures and city information.
33
t
Kigamboni
uru S
t
35
Gerezani
transaction; higher amounts available with advance notice.
Uh To Tazara Train
Station (4km);
erer
e Rd
ari St
Galaxy Forex Bureau (International Arrivals Area, Air- Travel Agencies
Airport (10km); Ny Band To Temeke (3.5km); Selous
port; hopen for all flights) Cash and travellers cheques; For information on safari and trek opera-
Kilwa
Rd
Pugu Hills (15km); Game Reserve (250km);
Kisarawe (25km) Kilwa Masoko (320km)
to the right as you exit customs. tors, see p92.
ὈὈ
118 D A R E S S A L A A M • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D A R E S S A L A A M • • S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s 119
Central Dar es Salaam
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
0 500 m INFORMATION Wizara ya mambo SHOPPING
CENTRAL DAR ES SALAAM 0 0.3 miles A Novel Idea..........................(see 38) ya ndani................................22 B1 JM Mall.....................................40 B3
Alpha Internet Café.....................1 B2 Zambian High Commission....... 23 C2 Mawazo Art Gallery &
A B C D
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
10
Ali Hassan
American Express.....................(see 7) Café..................................(see 32)
Mwinyi Rd
Oly
Upanga Barclay's Bank & ATM.................2 B1 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Nyumba ya Sanaa......................41 B1
mp
Golf Course
Dar es Salaam British Council............................. 3 C2 Fish Market.............................. 24 D3
io
d Bay
St
t 42 aR British High Commission..............4 C1 Hippotours & Safaris...............(see 41) TRANSPORT
nS 41 ar
1 ha im
Air India....................................42 B1
13 All
yk 31 Ch Canadian High Commission........ 5 C2 National Museum.....................25 C2
50
17 Central Police Station..................6 B3 Wildlife Conservation Society of Air Tanzania..............................43 B2
Upanga Rd
55
57
ve 27 Citibank.......................................7 B1 Tanzania...............................26 B2 Avis..........................................(see 2)
O
2
aA
hi
7 British Airways........................(see 31)
Botanical Coastal Travels............................8 B1
o
4
an
St
8
Gh Gardens
ὈὈ ὈὈ
M
Dutch Embassy.........................(see 4) SLEEPING Coastal Aviation.......................(see 8)
M
Rd 15
ak
32 22
ira
ta
ed Daladalas to Temeke.................44 A3
m
Extelecoms House.......................9 B2 Harbour View Suites...............(see 40)
ba
am
bo
St Alban's
St
oh e e 25
Av Holiday Inn...............................27 C1 Dar Express...............................45 A2
St
Kisutu M Anglican Church Av Flying Doctors/AMREF..............10 B1
Sh
ti en 5
or
a
Ti
aa
bi
33 1 a rd26 m German Embassy......................(see 4) Jambo Inn................................ 28 A2 EgyptAir....................................46 B3
ba
Bi 12 G Sa Kivukoni
n
Kisutu St 47 38 Hotspot Internet Café.............(see 40) Kibodya Hotel...........................29 A3 Emirates Airlines........................47 B2
li St
Ro
52 Dr
be
43
Pa ne Kearsley Travel........................(see 27) Luther House Centre Hostel......30 C2 Ethiopian Airlines......................(see 2)
Luthu
Oc
rt
m
3 i
ko
ba
St
ean
11 23 So State Kool Surfing.............................. 11 A2 Mövenpick Royal Palm Ferries to Zanzibar
uri St M Askari Rd House
Hotel......................................31 B1 Archipelago.......................... 48 B3
2 Jamh 14 Local Currency Outlet...............(see 8)
Rd
45 Monument
St
Zara kw
ep 39
India St
54
ya
St mo u 18 Main Post Office.......................12 B2 Safari Inn................................(see 28) Ferry to Kigamboni &
Lib
St
Az
Malawian High YMCA.......................................32 B1 Southern Beaches................ 49 D3
Ba
Za
iki
30 Ma
we
19
nd
na
34 Br 16 go
id 9 Azania Front Kivuk Commission.......................(see 23) YWCA......................................33 B2 Hertz......................................(see 31)
ki
go
St
ge 35 Old Post oni Fro
St
Cha 36 Mo ni
St
S Lutheran Church nt St
g rog Office Marine Parks & Reserves Kenya Airways........................(see 50)
St ga oro Mchafukoge t St
ld 53 58
28 Rd fie Unit..................................... 13 A1 EATING KLM..........................................50 B1
Mo 37 ans
squ Al-Mahdi Tea House................. 34 A2 Linhas Aéreas de
eS M St Joseph's Mealz Internet Café.................. 14 C2
Rd
t
t
46 24
ri S
e 20
Cathedral To Zanzibar; Mozambique High Alcove.......................................35 B2 Moçambique......................(see 40)
i
nd
v
hu
A 48 Pemba Commission............................15 C1 Baraza.....................................(see 27) MV Safari Booking Office.........51 B3
ha
a
Jam
o r 40
Indira G
Ὀ
Mnanzi National Bank of Commerce & Chef's Pride.............................. 36 A2 New Posta Transport Stand.......52 B2
M
Sa
iss
Mmoja 49
ion
Clock Alg ATM..................................... 16 B2 Dar Shanghai Restaurant........(see 30) Old Posta Transport Stand........53 B2
Bibi Titi Mohamed
Park
St
Tower 56 eri D
r 51
Uhuru St a e Regency Medical Centre...........17 A1 Épi d'Or....................................37 B2 Oman Air...............................(see 40)
Ra St in
3 ilw ko Rickshaw Travels Branch.........(see 31) Serengeti Restaurant...............(see 31) Precision Air..............................54 B2
a yS S o To Kigamboni
Lindi St
Lum
29 t (600m); South Rickshaw Travels.......................(see 7) Shoprite..................................(see 40) Royal Coach...........................(see 45)
Central Line Beach (2km)
Royal Palm Forex Bureau........(see 31) Steers....................................... 38 C2 Skylink......................................(see 2)
umb
Railway 6
Station 44
Standard Chartered ATM.......... 18 C2 South African
a St
Rd
Nyerere Standard Chartered ATM........(see 40) DRINKING Airways............................... 55 B1
Rd 21
Standard Chartered Bank & Cynics Café & Wine Bar............(see 2) Stesheni Transport Stand.......... 56 A3
ATM...................................(see 27) Kibo Bar..................................(see 31) Swiss International
Surveys & Mapping Division Airlines...............................(see 30)
Afri-Roots (%0744-459887; www.afriroots.co.tz) Budget walking alone along the path paralleling Map Sales Office..................19 C2 ENTERTAINMENT Tawfiq....................................(see 45)
cycling, hiking and camping in and around Dar es Salaam. Ocean Rd, and on Coco Beach (which is Tanzania Tourist Board Club Bilicanas............................39 B2 Taxi Stand.................................57 B1
Coastal Travels (Map p118; %211 7959, 211 7960; only safe on weekend afternoons, when it’s Information Centre...............20 B3 Mwalimu Julius K Nyerere Taxi Stand.................................58 B2
Traffic Police Headquarters.......21 A3 Cultural Centre..................(see 41) Yemenia Yemen Airways..........(see 2)
[email protected]; Upanga Rd) Flights around the country; packed with locals).
especially recommended for travel to Zanzibar, and to
northern and southern safari circuit destinations. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Village Museum calm as urban markets go, and you can
Kearsley Travel (www.kearsleys.com) Holiday Inn (Map Dar es Salaam’s craft stands and markets are The centrepiece of the open-air Village Mu- watch fish auctions or browse past rows of
p118; %211 5026, Garden Ave); Seacliff Village (Map great for browsing (see p124), and its other- seum (%270 0437; www.homestead.com/villagemuseum/; Indian Ocean delicacies. For more excite-
p116; %260 0538, 260 0467) wise modest selection of attractions should cnr New Bagamoyo Rd & Makaburi St; adult/child/student ment, get a reliable taxi driver or Tanzanian
Rickshaw Travels Mövenpick Royal Palm Hotel (Map p118; be enough to keep you busy until you can US$3/1.50/2, camera/video US$3/20; h 9.30am-6pm) friend to take you to the huge, sprawling
Ohio St); Upanga St (Map p118; %211 0960, 211 4094; escape to the beach (the closest swimming is a collection of authentically constructed Kariakoo Market (Map p116; cnr Msimbazi & Mkunguni
[email protected]) Amex agent. beaches are those just south and north of dwellings meant to show traditional life in Sts), Tanzania’s largest; don’t bring valu-
the city, p126) or points further afield. various parts of Tanzania. The best time to ables, and watch out for pickpockets. For
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES come is in the afternoon, when there are Western-style shopping, try Msasani Slipway
Dar es Salaam is considered to be safer than National Museum often traditional music and dance perform- or Seacliff Village (both at the northern end
many other big cities in the region, notably The National Museum (Map p118; %212 2030, 211 ances (see p123). of Msasani Peninsula), both with a good
Nairobi, though it has its share of mug- 7508; Shaaban Robert St; adult/child/student US$3/1.50/2; The museum is 10km north of the city assortment of shops.
gings and thefts. During the day, watch out h9.30am-6pm) is home to the famous fossil centre; take the Mwenge daladala from
for pickpocketing, particularly at crowded discoveries of Zinjanthropus (nutcracker New Posta transport stand and get off at Bird Walks
markets and bus and train stations, and for man) from Olduvai Gorge (p200), plus the museum (TSh200, 30 minutes) or take Dar es Salaam boasts a surprisingly rich
bag snatching through vehicle windows. scattered displays on various other topics, a taxi (TSh5000). variety of birdlife, especially once you make
Take the usual precautions, try to avoid including the Shirazi civilisation of Kilwa, it outside the centre of town. The best intro-
carrying bags or cameras, and, if possible, the Zanzibar slave trade, and the German Markets duction is on one of the Wildlife Conserva-
leave your valuables in a reliable hotel safe. and British colonial periods. It’s near the For a gentle initiation into Dar es Salaam’s tion Society of Tanzania’s (p113) bird walks
At night take a taxi, rather than taking a Botanical Gardens, between Samora Ave markets, head to the fish market (Map p118; (free, duration is from two to three hours),
daladala (minibus) or walking, and avoid and Sokoine Dr. Ocean Rd), near Kivukoni Front. It’s fairly which depart from their office at 7.30am
TA N Z A N I A 120 D A R E S S A L A A M • • D a r e s S a l a a m f o r C h i l d re n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D A R E S S A L A A M • • S l e e p i n g 121
TA N Z A N I A
windows, erratic hot-water supplies and a Harbour View Suites (Map p118; %212 4040; www
SCAMS small restaurant. .harbourview-suites.com; Samora Ave; ste US$90-140;
Like any big city, Dar es Salaam has its complement of hustlers and con artists. Some to watch Luther House Centre Hostel (Map p118; %212 ai) New and very nice business travel-
out for: 6247; [email protected]; Sokoine Dr; s/tw US$20/25; a) lers’ studio apartments with views over the
Men who want to strike up a conversation and try to sell you marijuana (bangi or ganja). Centrally located, about two blocks south- city or the harbour, kitchenette, broadband
Before you’ve had a chance to shake them loose, policemen (sometimes legitimate, some- east of the post office. Rooms have fan, nets connections and a business centre. Rooms
times not) suddenly appear and insist that you pay a huge fine for being involved in the and air-con, and breakfast is available (at are spotless and good value; below is JM
purchase of illegal drugs. Once they’ve arrived, there’s often little you can do, other than in- extra charge) at Dar Shanghai Restaurant Mall, with an ATM, supermarket and forex
stantly hightailing it in the opposite direction if you smell this scam coming. If you’re caught,
(p123), downstairs. bureau. Breakfast is extra.
insist on going to the nearest police station before paying anything, and whittle the bribe
Kibodya Hotel (Map p118; %211 7856; Nkrumah Holiday Inn (Map p118; %213 7575; www.holiday
St; d TSh9600) Large, no-frills rooms with fans. -inn.com; Garden Ave; s/d US$144/160; ai) A pleas-
down as low as you can. Initial demands may be as high as US$300, but if you’re savvy, you
It’s in a busy area off the southwestern end ant and popular place, with modern rooms
should be able to get away with under US$50.
of Samora Ave near the clock tower; there’s and the standard amenities, including a busi-
Anyone who tries to sell you Zanzibar ferry tickets at discounted resident prices, or who tries no food. ness centre. It’s on a quiet side street near
to persuade you to come into town with them – or to anywhere other than the real (and well- Msimbazi Centre Hostel (Map p116; %286 3508, the National Museum and next to Standard
signed) ticket offices with promises of discounted tickets. Unless you have a resident permit, 286 3204; Kawawa Rd; s/d TSh8500/12,000) Tiny, stuffy Chartered Bank.
there’s no such thing as a discounted ticket, and you’ll just get caught later on. singles with fan and net, breezier doubles
Anyone who tries to sell you a yellow-fever vaccination card (no longer required to enter with two rooms sharing bathroom facilities, Msasani Peninsula & Upanga
Tanzania or Zanzibar). and a canteen, all run by the Archdiocese MIDRANGE
of Dar es Salaam. It’s noisy, especially on Swiss Garden Hotel (Map p116; %215 3219; swiss
Anyone (especially around the port area) who starts regaling you with their tale of woe –
weekends, but otherwise is reasonable value. [email protected]; Mindu St; s/d from US$50/70; i) A
usually involving being a refugee from somewhere – and showing you a list of all the people It’s about 2km southwest of the city centre; cosy B&B in a quiet, leafy neighbourhood,
who have signed on to help them with donations. Your money has a better chance of reaching take the Buguruni daladala from the Old with small, spotless rooms and helpful hosts.
those most in need when channeled through registered charities or churches. Posta transport stand and ask to be dropped It’s in Upanga, just off United Nations Rd.
off (TSh2500 in a taxi). Palm Beach Hotel (Map p116; %212 2931, 213 0985;
www.pbhtz.com; Ali Hassan Mwinyi Rd; s/d/tr US$55/80/90;
on the first and the last Saturday of each City Centre MIDRANGE & TOP END ai) This Dar es Salaam institution has
month. BUDGET Mövenpick Royal Palm Hotel (Map p118; %211 been completely renovated, and now offers
Most budget lodging is clustered around the 2416; www.movenpick-daressalaam.com; Ohio St; s/d from spartan but spacious rooms with TV, wire-
DAR ES SALAAM FOR CHILDREN busy Kisutu area or the equally busy area US$185/210; ais) This five-star establish- less Internet access and a restaurant.
With young ones in tow, good diversions around the main post office. ment is Dar es Salaam’s classiest, with plush Hotel Karibu (Map p116; %260 2946; www.hotel
include the beaches north of the city, es- YWCA (Map p118; %212 2439; Maktaba St; s/d with rooms and top-notch service. In addition to karibu.com; Haile Selassie Rd; s/d US$80/90; as) A
pecially their water parks (see p127); the shared bathroom TSh9000/12,000) Just up from the the pool (TSh10,000 for nonguests), there quirky place in Oyster Bay with reasonable
supervised play area at Sea Cliff Village, next post office, and a good budget deal. Rooms are fitness and business centres, restaurants rooms (ask for one that has been refur-
to Sea Cliff Hotel (p122), where you can are clean, with net, fan and sink, and the and a café-patisserie. It’s centrally located bished) and a large free-form pool that’s
leave your child with a nanny while you convenient central location makes up for in attractive grounds near the golf course. usually a hit with children.
head off shopping; and Msasani Slipway the street noise. Rooms around the inner
(p124), with ice-cream cones and a small courtyard are quieter. Men and women are
playground. accepted, and food is available. TANZANIA’S STREET CHILDREN
YMCA (Map p118; %213 5457; Upanga Rd; s/d with In Tanzania, as in so many other places in the world, there are distressingly high numbers of
SLEEPING shared bathroom US$10/13) Around the corner children and youths – particularly boys – on the streets. Some are orphans, often due to AIDS.
If you’re relying on public transport, it’s from the YWCA, and marginally quieter. Others are fleeing violence or stressful living situations at home, lack access to education, or
cheaper and more convenient to stay in Rooms have mosquito nets, and there’s a have dropped out of school and turned to the street as an alternative.
the city centre, which is where most budget canteen. Men and women are accepted. While there are few statistics, the scope of the problem is hinted at by the large numbers
lodging is anyway. If you don’t mind pay- Safari Inn (Map p118; %211 9104; safari-inn@lycos of children who seek help at outreach programs. These programs generally seek community
ing for taxis, or travelling the distance .com; s/d TSh10,000/16,500, d with air-con TSh26,500; reintegration for those children who have families, or foster care or adoption for those who
from the airport (about 20km), the hotels ai) A popular travellers’ haunt in Kis- don’t, in the meanwhile offering services such as residential, health and counselling programs,
on Msasani Peninsula are a break from utu, on the western edge of the city centre. plus basic education. Some also do advocacy work on various issues, including popularising the
the urban crush. To avoid the city entirely, Rooms have fans, and are sprayed each United Nations Convention on the Rights of the Child, seeking to end corporal punishment and
head for the beaches south or north of Dar evening. It’s off Libya St. the practice of expelling pregnant girls in schools, formulating fair employment standards for
es Salaam (p126). All top-end hotels accept Jambo Inn (Map p118; %211 4293, 211 0686; jambo Tanzania’s youth and simply raising awareness. If you’re interested in learning more or in getting
credit cards. [email protected]; Libya St; s/d TSh12,000/16,000, involved, good initial contacts include Dogo Dogo Centre for Street Children (dogodogo@cats-net
The closest places for camping are at d with air-con TSh24,000; a) Around the cor- .com; Dar es Salaam), Boona Baana Centre (www.boonabaana.org; Dar es Salaam) and Mkombazi (www
Pugu Hills (p128), and at the beaches north ner from the Safari Inn, and also popu- .mkombozi.org; Moshi).
and south of town. lar, Jambo Inn has fans, flyscreens in the
TA N Z A N I A 122 D A R E S S A L A A M • • E a t i n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D A R E S S A L A A M • • D r i n k i n g 123
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Msasani Slipway Apartments (Map p116; %260 MIDRANGE & TOP END Garden Bistro (Map p116; %260 0800; Haile Selassie
0893; [email protected]; apt US$80, day use US$60; a) AUTHOR’S CHOICE Cynics Café & Wine Bar (Map p118; %213 8422; sand- Rd; dinner daily, lunch Sat & Sun) Indian and conti-
Slick, modern apartments in a good location Épi d’Or (%213 6006; Samora Ave; light meals wiches & salads TSh3500-6000; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to nental dishes and grills served in nice gar-
at the Msasani Slipway. All have a hotplate, from TSh2000; h7am-7pm Mon-Sat; a) This 9pm Fri) A great little place tucked in next to den bandas (thatched-roof huts).
sink and refrigerator, and some have views cosy French-run bakery-café features deli- Barclay’s bank, between Ohio and Upanga La Trattoria Jan (Map p116; %255 7640, 266 8739;
over the bay. Discounted long-term rates cious breads, pastries and light lunches, Sts, with sandwiches and salads, plus good Kimweri Ave; meals from TSh4000; hlunch & dinner) A
are available. including large, crispy salads, and hummus juices and coffees, yogurt and cakes. homy, long-standing place that attracts a
Souk (Map p116; %260 0893; [email protected]; and other Middle Eastern dishes. It’s in the Dar Shanghai Restaurant (Map p118; %213 4397; loyal group of regulars with its good pizzas
r US$80, day r US$60; a) The same management heart of the city near the corner of Bridge St, Luther House Centre Hostel, Sokoine Dr; meals from TSh3500; and Italian dishes.
also has hotel-style rooms (without kitch- and while there are no sea breezes, you can hbreakfast, lunch & dinner, closed Sun lunch) The best There’s a good selection of eateries at Sea-
enette) at this adjoining establishment in sit in air-conditioned comfort and watch the bet for Chinese food, with a wide menu se- cliff Village (Map p116; Toure Dr; hall day), including
the centre of the shopping area. For meals, passing scene along busy Samora Ave. lection, reasonable prices and friendly staff. Turquoise (Map p116; %260 0979; meals from TSh5000)
you have all the Slipway restaurants at your It’s behind Swiss Airlines in the Luther for delicious Turkish cuisine. Msasani Slipway
doorstep. House Centre Hostel building. (Map p116; Msasani Slipway; hall day) is also good,
Akana Lodge (Map p116; %270 0122, 277 5261; often overlooked for the more modern and Kibo Bar (Map p118; %211 2416; Mövenpick Royal with everything from burgers to sushi, plus
www.akanalodge.com; s/d US$50/70; a) Spacious better value places in this price range, some Palm Hotel, Ohio St; huntil 11.30pm) Features a an ice-cream shop and a waterside setting.
rooms in a private home, with a few smaller of the rooms are surprisingly OK (take a good-value lunch special on weekdays for
ones next door in an annexe, and local-style look at several, as they vary considerably). around TSh6000 to TSh10,000, with design- DRINKING
meals available on request. It’s about 7km your-own pasta, sandwich, omelette and Neither the café nor the pub scene have
north of the city centre: go north on Old EATING salad stations. made their way into local Dar es Salaam life,
Bagamoyo Rd past Shopper’s Plaza, then Dar es Salaam has a good selection of mod- Serengeti Restaurant (Map p118; %211 2416; Ohio but there are nevertheless a few good spots
left at the Akana signpost. erately priced restaurants scattered around St; buffet TSh17,000-22,000; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) to quench your thirst.
the city centre and on the Msasani Penin- Next door to the Mövenpick, this eatery has Cynics Café & Wine Bar (Map p118; %213 8422;
TOP END sula. Most places in the centre are closed a full-course buffet and á la carte dining. h10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri) Live music on
Sea Cliff Hotel (Map p116; %260 0380/7; www.hotel on Sunday. For self-catering, try Shoprite City Baraza (Map p118; %213 7575; Holiday Inn Hotel, some Friday evenings.
seacliff.com; Toure Dr; s/d with/without sea view US$180/160; Centre (JM Mall, Samora Ave & Mission St); Msasani Peninsula Garden Ave; meals from TSh6000; hbreakfast, lunch & Garden Bistro (Map p116; %260 0800; Haile Selas-
ais) Sea Cliff has an excellent, breezy (Msasani Slipway); and Shopper’s Supermarket (Shop- dinner) A popular place with a small lunch- sie Rd) A popular spot for a drink, with live
setting overlooking the ocean at the north- per’s Plaza, Old Bagamoyo Rd) in the Namanga area, eon buffet, and á la carte dining featuring music on weekends.
ern tip of Msasani Peninsula, plus a small about 5km north of the city centre. seafood grills and Swahili cuisine. Sweet Eazy (Map p116; Oyster Bay Shopping Centre)
fitness centre and several restaurants. Avoid Alcove (Map p118; %213 7444; Samora Ave; meals A well-stocked bar, and music on Thursday
the less appealing, viewless rooms in the City Centre from TSh6000; hlunch & dinner, closed Sun lunch) Dark, and Saturday evenings.
neighbouring annex. BUDGET heavy décor and tasty Indian and Chinese Mawazo Art Gallery & Café (Map p118; %0748-
Courtyard (Map p116; %213 0130; info@thecourtyard For inexpensive Indian food and takeaways cuisine, including a decent selection of vege- 782770; Upanga Rd; h 10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, until
-dar.com; Ocean Rd; s/d from US$109/129; ais) and lots of local atmosphere, head to the tarian dishes. 8.30pm Wed) A small, bright art gallery-café in
Dark and heavily furnished but comfortable area around Zanaki and Jamhuri Sts, where the YMCA grounds.
rooms around a small courtyard, with the a good place to start is the tiny Al-Mahdi Msasani Peninsula Épi d’Or (Map p118; %213 6006; Samora Ave; h7am-
better (brighter) ones on the upper level. Tea House (Map p118; Zanaki St; snacks from TSh200; Sweet Eazy (Map p116; %0745-754074; Oyster Bay 7pm Mon-Sat; a) Good coffee and juices, and
It’s 1km south of Selander Bridge. If you h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat). Shops; Toure Drive) The Dar es Salaam branch a great place for a midday break.
don’t like air-con, note that the windows Chef’s Pride (Map p118; Chagga St; meals from of this Zanzibar restaurant features Thai Kibo Bar (Map p118; Mövenpick Royal Palm Hotel, Ohio
don’t have flyscreens. TSh2000; h lunch & dinner, closed during Ramadan) and Swahili cuisine, relaxing outdoor ter- St) Upmarket sports bar at the hotel.
Protea Dar es Salaam Apartments (Map p116; A long-standing and popular local eatery race seating, and music on Thursday and
%266 6665; [email protected]; cnr Haile Selassie & within easy walking distance of the Kisutu Saturday evenings. ENTERTAINMENT
Ali Hassan Mwinyi Rds; fully serviced apt from US$100; budget hotels. The large menu features Addis in Dar (Map p116; %0741-266299; 35 Ursino For the latest on what’s going on around
ais) Modern apartments in a secure standard fare, plus pizzas, Indian and veg St; meals from TSh5000; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat) One town, check the listings magazines (p117),
compound just north of Selander Bridge. dishes, and Chinese cuisine. of Dar es Salaam’s insider tips if you like the bulletin board at Nyumba ya Sanaa
All come with kitchenette, TV and access to Nyumba ya Sanaa (Map p118; Ohio St; meals from Ethiopian food, with doro wat (chicken (p124) and www.naomba.com.
the fitness and business centres; short- and TSh3000; hlunch & dinner) A small, informal accompanied by a hard-boiled egg served
long-term rentals are possible. eatery in the Nyumba ya Sanaa crafts and in a hot sauce of butter, onion, chilli, car- Nightclubs
Oyster Bay Hotel (Map p116; %260 0352/4; ob cultural centre, serving up plates of chicken damom and berbere) and other delicacies, Dar es Salaam holds its own in the East
[email protected]; Toure Dr; s/d US$100/120; ai) and chips, and other local fare. See also and a good range of vegetarian dishes. It’s African music scene, though it takes time to
The location of this place – across the road p124. signposted off Mgombani St. Advance res- discover all it has to offer. Most nightspots
from the seafront – and its collection of Steers (Map p118; cnr Samora Ave & Ohio St; meals ervations recommended. only get going after 11pm. Admission aver-
shops and eateries compensate somewhat from TSh2000; h8am until late) A branch of the Saverio’s (Map p116; %270 0393; Old Bagamoyo Rd; ages TSh5000 on weekends.
for the seemingly permanent scaffolding popular South African chain, with burgers meals from TSh3500; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun) Good California Dreamers (Map p116; Ali Hassan Mwinyi Rd)
around the grounds. Although the hotel is and fast food. pizzas, grills and seafood. Upmarket Western-style disco.
TA N Z A N I A 124 D A R E S S A L A A M • • S h o p p i n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com D A R E S S A L A A M • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 125
TA N Z A N I A
Club Bilicanas (Map p118; Mkwepu St) More of the same. that sells textiles and crafts from various Boat on Morogoro Rd. It’s a sprawling place
Lions Club (Sheikilango Rd) Lots of local flavour, best on parts of the country; you can also watch The main passenger routes are between Dar with the usual bus-station hustle, so keep
Friday and Saturday; in Sinza, just off New Bagamoyo Rd. some of the artists at work. es Salaam, Zanzibar and Pemba; and Dar es an eye on your luggage and your wallet,
New Msasani Club (Map p116; Old Bagamoyo Rd) Near If you save your craft shopping until Salaam and Mtwara. and try to avoid arriving at night. Dala-
the US embassy, and with a moderately upmarket clientele; the last minute, several shops in the inter- dalas to Ubungo (TSh200) leave from New
Friday, Saturday and Sunday. national departures lounge at the airport MTWARA Posta and Old Posta local transport stands.
have good selections. The only connection is on the ailing MV Taxis from the city centre cost TSh8000 to
Cinemas Safari, which departs at 8am Saturday from TSh10,000. Arriving at Dar es Salaam, you
British Council (Map p118; %211 6574/5; Sokoine Dr) GETTING THERE & AWAY Dar es Salaam, and at 2pm Tuesday from can sometimes stay on the bus past Ubungo
Occasional free cultural films. See also p115. Air Mtwara (US$25 including port tax, 25 to 30 until the bus line’s town office – which is
Msasani Slipway (Map p116; Msasani Peninsula) Movies Dar es Salaam International Airport is Tan- hours). Tickets are sold at the MV Safari office worth doing, as it will be less chaotic and
Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings. zania’s international and domestic flight hub. (Map p118; %212 4504/6; Sokoine Drive) at the port, you’ll have a cheaper taxi fare to your hotel.
New World Cinema (www.darcinemas.com; New Most domestic flights and all international just down from the Zanzibar ferry terminal, For departures, book tickets at the bus-line
Bagamoyo Rd, Mwenge) Daily screenings of Indian and flights depart from Terminal Two (the ‘new’ and opposite the back of JM Mall. offices (listed following), most of which are
Western films. terminal, and the first one you reach coming in Kisutu, near the Libya St post office. Only
from town). Many flights on small planes ZANZIBAR & PEMBA buy tickets inside the bus office itself.
Traditional Music & Dance (including most Zanzibar flights) and most There are four ‘fast’ ferry trips (on Sea Star, Dar Express (Map p118; Libya St) runs daily buses
Mwalimu Julius K Nyerere Cultural Centre (Map charters depart from Terminal One (‘old’ ter- Sea Express or Sea Bus) daily from Dar es Sa- to Arusha departing at 6am (TSh12,000),
p118; Nyumba ya Sanaa, Ohio St) This centre has tra- minal), about 700m further down the road. laam to Zanzibar, departing daily at 7.30am 7am, 8am and 9am (all TSh14,000), while
ditional dance performances at 7pm on Fri- (Sea Express), 10.30am (Sea Star), 2pm (Sea Royal Coach (Map p118; %212 4073; Libya St) runs
days, and is the best place to find out about AIRLINE OFFICES Bus) and 4pm (Sea Bus). All take 1½ hours daily departures to Arusha at 9am.
other traditional dance events around town. Air India (Map p118; %215 2642; cnr Ali Hassan Mwinyi and cost US$35/40 regular/VIP (VIP gets you Scandinavian Express (Map p116; %218 4833/4;
Village Museum (%270 0437; www.homestead & Bibi Titi Mohamed Rds) a seat in the air-con hold, but isn’t worth www.scandinaviagroup.com; cnr Msimbazi St & Nyerere Rd)
.com/villagemuseum/; cnr New Bagamoyo Rd & Makaburi Air Tanzania Airport (%284 4239; Terminal Two; the extra money). There’s also one slow ferry has its own terminal for arrivals, depar-
St) The museum hosts ngoma performances h6am-midnight); City Centre (Map p118; %211 8411, called the Flying Horse, which takes almost tures and ticket bookings, which is much
for TSh2500 from 2pm to 6pm on weekends 284 4239; ATC Building, Ohio St) four hours. It departs daily at 12.30pm and calmer than Ubungo, and closer to the city
and most weekdays as well, and also has oc- British Airways (Map p118; %211 3820, 284 4082; costs US$20 one way. The ticket windows for centre. All Scandinavian buses also pass by
casional special programs highlighting the Mövenpick Royal Palm Hotel, Ohio St) all ferries are opposite St Joseph’s Cathedral. Ubungo.
dances of individual tribes. Coastal Aviation Airport (%284 3293; Terminal One); Travelling in the other direction, depar-
City Centre (Map p118; %211 7959/60; aviation@coastal tures from Zanzibar are daily at 7am (Sea Destination Price (TSh) Frequency (per day)
SHOPPING .cc; Upanga Rd) Star), 10am (Sea Bus), 1pm (Sea Bus), 4pm
For souvenirs, try the Msasani Slipway Weekend EgyptAir (Map p118; %211 0333; Samora Ave) (Sea Express) and 10pm (Flying Horse, arriv- Arusha 15,000-24,000 2
Craft Market (Map p116; Msasani Slipway, Msasani Penin- Emirates Airlines (Map p118; %211 6100; Haidery ing before dawn the next day). Dodoma 7500-10,000 3
sula; hSat & Sun). Prices are higher here than Plaza, cnr Kisutu & India Sts) Only buy your tickets at the ticket win- Iringa 8500-10,000 3
elsewhere in town, but quality is good and Ethiopian Airlines (Map p118; %211 7063; Ohio St) dows, and don’t fall for touts at the harbour Kampala 50,000 1
the atmosphere calm. It’s on the western side Opposite Mövenpick Royal Palm Hotel. trying to collect extra fees for ‘doctors’ certif- Kyela 18,000-20,000 2
of Msasani Peninsula, just off Chole Rd. For Kenya Airways (Map p118; %211 3666, 211 9376/7; icates’, departure taxes and the like. The only Mbeya 18,000-20,000 3
high-quality paintings, woodcarvings and Upanga Rd, cnr Ali Hassan Mwinyi & Bibi Titi Mohamed Rds) fee is the ticket price (which includes the Mombasa 19,000 1
more, a good place to start is Mawazo Art KLM (Map p118; %213 9790/1; Upanga Rd) Together US$5 port tax). Also, avoid touts who try to Mwanza 44,000 1
Gallery & Café (p123). with Kenya Airways. steer you to fake booking offices in the port Nairobi 38,000 1
The best place for Tingatinga paintings is Linhas Aéreas de Moçambique (Map p118; %213 area, who want to take you into town to buy Songea 17,000-19,000 1
the bustling Tingatinga Centre (Map p116; Morogoro 4600; Ground fl, JM Mall, Samora Ave) At Fast-Track Travel, ‘cheaper’ ferry tickets, or who offer to pur- Tanga 7500 1
Stores, Haile Selassie Rd, Oyster Bay; h8.30am-5pm), www.fasttracktanzania.com. chase ferry tickets for you at less-expensive Tunduma 17,000 1
where you can watch the artists at work and Oman Air (Map p118; %213 5660; omanair@cats-net resident rates. Although it’s easy enough to
stroll among their wares. For woodcarvings, .com; Ground Fl, JM Mall, Samora Ave) get resident-rate tickets and get on the boat Transport to Kilwa Masoko also departs
head to the Mwenge Carvers’ Market (Sam Nujoma Precision Air Airport (%284 3547; Terminal Two); City Cen- with them, you’re likely to have problems from Temeke bus stand, about 5km south-
Rd; h8am-6pm), near the Village Museum off tre (Map p118; %212 1718; cnr Samora Ave & Pamba Rd) later when the tout or his buddies come west of the city centre, just off Nelson Man-
New Bagamoyo Rd. It’s packed with ven- South African Airways (%211 7044; Raha Towers, around to collect payment for the favour. dela Rd.
dors, and you’ll be able to see how some of cnr Bibi Titi Mohamed & Ali Hassan Mwinyi Rds) For information on ferry connections to For information about buses between Dar
the carving is done. Take the Mwenge dala- Swiss International Airlines (Map p118; %211 8870; Pemba, see p154 and p157. es Salaam and Kenya, Uganda, Zambia and
dala from New Posta to the end, from where Luther House, Sokoine Dr) Malawi, see p256.
it’s five minutes on foot to the left, down Yemenia Yemen Airways (Map p118; %212 6036; Bus
Sam Nujoma Rd. Closer to town, Nyumba ya Ohio St) Opposite Mövenpick Royal Palm Hotel. All buses except Scandinavian Express de- Train
Sanaa (Map p118; Ohio St, next to Mövenpick Royal Palm ZanAir (%284 3297; www.zanair.com; Terminal One, part from and arrive at the main bus sta- For information about the Tazara line be-
Hotel; hdaily) is a local artists’ cooperative Airport) tion at Ubungo, about 8km west of town tween Dar es Salaam, Mbeya and Kapiri
126 A R O U N D D A R E S S A L A A M • • S o u t h e r n B e a c h e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D D A R E S S A L A A M • • N o r t h e r n B e a c h e s 127
AROUND DAR ES
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Mposhi (Zambia), see p265. For more on Program (CTP), which introduces you to the Dive Centre (www.seabreezemarine.org) at White
Central Line trains between Dar es Salaam, life of the local Zaramo people and sails out Sands Hotel (below).
Kigoma and Mwanza, see p265.
The Tazara station (%286 5187; www.tazara.co
.tz; cnr Nyerere & Nelson Mandela Rds) is about 6km
SALAAM to nearby Sinda Island. The starting point is
at Akida’s Garden (%0744-505725; camping TSh2500,
bandas per person with shared bathroom TSh7000), sign-
There are several water parks, with pools,
water slides and other Disney-style amuse-
ments. Kunduchi Wet ‘n’ Wild (%265 0326, 265 0332;
southwest from the city centre (TSh5000 in SOUTHERN BEACHES posted about 1km off the main road. There’s [email protected]; adult/child TSh4000/3800; h9am-
a taxi). Daladalas depart from the New and The coastline south of Dar es Salaam gets also camping (TSh2000) under the palms on the 6pm, Tue women only) is the largest, with pools,
Old Posta transport stands, and are marked more attractive, tropical and rural the further sublime Kim Beach, nearby. With an early water slides, bumper cars, video arcades and
Vigunguti, U/Ndege or Buguruni. south you go, and makes an easy getaway. start, it’s possible to visit as a day trip from more. Take a daladala to Mwenge and then
Tanzanian Railways Corporation (Central Line) The budget places begin south of Kigam- Dar es Salaam on public transport. CTP fees a taxi.
station (Map p118; %211 7833; www.trctz.com; cnr boni, which is opposite Kivukoni Front and are about TSh7000 per person per half day,
Railway St & Sokoine Dr) is in the city centre just reached in a few minutes by ferry. About and Sinda Island trips cost TSh5000. Sleeping & Eating
southwest of the ferry terminal. 25km south are a few exclusive resorts. Take a daladala from the Kigamboni ferry Jangwani Sea Breeze Lodge (%264 7215, 0741-
dock towards Kimbiji or Gezaulole, and ask 320875; www.jangwani.com; s/d from US$90/115; ai
GETTING AROUND Kigamboni the driver to drop you at the turn-off for s) A tidy establishment with comfortable if
To/From the Airport %022 Akida’s Garden (TSh400). Taxis from Kig- somewhat over-furnished rooms (all across
Dar es Salaam International Airport is 12km The beach south of Kigamboni is the closest amboni charge about TSh7000. the road from the beach), a bougainvillea-
from the city centre. Daladalas (marked U/ spot to Dar es Salaam for camping. It’s also draped courtyard, and a restaurant with
Ndege) depart from New Posta transport an easy day trip if you’re staying in town Ras Kutani weekend buffets.
stand. In traffic the trip can take over an and want some sand and surf. This cape about 30km south of Dar es Sa- White Sands Hotel (%264 7621, 211 3678; www
hour. Much better are taxis, which cost laam boasts secluded tropical surroundings .hotelwhitesands.com; s/d US$105/120, weekend discounts;
TSh8000 to TSh10,000, depending on your SLEEPING & EATING and good fishing. Both lodges requiring ad- ais) A sprawling hotel on the beach.
bargaining abilities. Kipepeo Village (%282 0877, 0744-276178; www vance bookings. Rooms have TV, minifridge and small bal-
.kipepeovillage.com; s/d/tr banda US$50/65/95) Raised Ras Kutani (www.selous.com; s/d full board US$308/ conies. Windsurfing, deep-sea fishing and
Car & Motorcycle cottages lined up about 200m in from the 410) is an intimate retreat set between the excursions can be arranged. There’s a disco
Most of the rental agencies listed on p263 beach, all with balconies and mosquito nets. sea and a small lagoon, and comes about on weekend evenings.
offer special business packages within Dar Breakfast is not included. as close as you can get to a tropical island Silver Sands Beach Hotel (%265 0567/8; camping
es Salaam. Kipepeo Campsite (%282 0877; www.kipepeocamp getaway without leaving the mainland. Ac- US$3, per vehicle US$2, dm US$9, ordinary/deluxe r US$30/45;
.com; camping US$4, s/d banda US$13/20) This camp site commodation is in barefoot-luxury-style a) The best budget choice, with camping
Public Transport is on the beach. It has a restaurant-bar, a grill bungalows and bird-watching and other facilities with hot water, and dorm beds
Daladalas are invariably packed to over- and simple beachside bandas. On weekends, activities can be arranged. that come with mosquito nets and break-
flowing and are difficult to board with lug- there’s a TSh3000 fee for day use of the beach. For more of a resort atmosphere, head just fast. There are also rooms set around a small
gage. First and last stops are shown in the front Kipepeo is 8km south of the ferry dock. south and around the bend from Ras Kutani lawn, and a restaurant.
window, but routes vary, so confirm that the Gendayeka Beach Village (camping TSh5000, r per bungalows to the exclusive Amani Beach Club
driver is really going to your destination. Rides person with shared bathroom TSh10,000) A simple place (%0744-410033; www.proteahotels.com; s/d full board Getting There & Away
cost TSh100 to TSh200. Main stops: on the beach 700m south of Kipepeo Camp- US$140/240; ais), spread across large, Jangwani Sea Breeze Lodge and White
New Posta (Map p118; Maktaba St) In front of the main site. No-frills bungalows with shared facili- manicured lawns overlooking the sea. It has Sands Hotel are reached via the same sign-
post office. ties. Women in particular should note that spacious luxury cottages and a full array of posted turn-off from the Bagamoyo road.
Old Posta (Map p118; Sokoine Dr) Just down from the a padlock is required as most bungalows are excursions and water sports. About 3km further north along the Baga-
Azania Front Lutheran Church. not secured. Make bookings through Chef’s moyo road is the signposted turn-off for
Stesheni (Map p118; Algeria St) Off Samora Ave near Pride restaurant (p122). NORTHERN BEACHES Silver Sands.
the Central Line Railway Station. Daladalas to Temeke bus %022 Take a daladala from Dar es Salaam’s
stand also leave from here; ask for ‘Temeke mwisho’. GETTING THERE & AWAY The beaches about 25km north of central New Posta to Mwenge. For Jangwani and
The Kigamboni ferry (per person/vehicle Dar es Salaam and east of New Bagamoyo White Sands, continue via daladala from
Taxi TSh100/800, five minutes) runs throughout Rd are lined with resorts and are popular Mwenge towards Tegeta and disembark at
Taxis charge TSh1000 to TSh2000 per short the day between the eastern end of Kivu- weekend getaways. While they lack the ex- Africana Junction, from where you can find
trip within the centre. Fares to Msasani Pen- koni Front and Kigamboni village. Once on otic ambience of Zanzibar’s beaches, they a taxi to the hotels (from TSh2000). For
insula start at TSh2500 (TSh5000 to Sea the other side, daladalas head south from make a relaxing break from the city. They’re Silver Sands, stay on until the Kunduchi
Cliff Village). Kigamboni; ask the driver to drop you also close enough that you can visit for the Junction stop, where you’ll need to look for
Taxi ranks include those opposite Möven- off. Taxis from Kigamboni charge about day, or use them as a base if you want to a taxi for the remaining 2km or so (about
pick Royal Palm Hotel, on the corner of TSh2000 to Kipepeo and Gendayeka. avoid Dar es Salaam entirely. TSh1500). Don’t walk though, as there have
Azikiwe St and Sokoine Dr (opposite the been several muggings along this stretch
Azania Front Lutheran Church) and on the Gezaulole Activities of road.
Msasani Peninsula on the corner of Msasani Gezaulole village, 13km south of Kigam- Diving around Bongoyo and Mbudya Is- Taxis from the city centre/airport cost
and Haile Selassie Rds. boni on the beach, has a Cultural Tourism lands can be arranged at Sea Breeze Marine about TSh15,000/25,000.
ὈὈ
128 Z A N Z I B A R A R C H I P E L A G O • • H i s t o r y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z A N Z I B A R A R C H I P E L A G O • • H i s t o r y 129
Zanzibar Archipelago
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
PUGU HILLS reserve entry fee is usually included in the Zanzibar and Pemba channels. The islands ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO
The Pugu Hills area begins about 15km price of excursions. had likely been visited at an even earlier 0
0
50 km
30 miles
southwest of Dar es Salaam and extends About 7km north of Dar es Salaam is date by traders and sailors from Arabia. To
Mkomazi KENYA Mombasa
past Kisarawe. It’s lightly wooded, with sev- Bongoyo Island Marine Reserve (admission TSh1000), The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea, an early GR (50km)
eral small forest reserves, and offers a break the most popular of the islands, with a quiet mariner’s guide, documents small Arabic A14
Lunga Funzi
Lunga
from urban noise and bustle. Despite its (except on holiday weekends) stretch of trading settlements along the coast that Horohoro
Shimoni
proximity to the city, many communities beach and some short walking trails. You were already well established by the 1st cen-
Usa
mba
here have remained quite traditional and can arrange a seafood meal with locals on tury, and makes reference to the island of See Pemba Map (p152)
ra M
conservative. Pugu is also of interest from the beach; bring your own drinks. Swim- Menouthias, which many historians believe
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
Sig
el
a historical perspective, as the site of Pugu ming here is not tide dependent. There’s to be Zanzibar. From around the 8th cen-
oun
i
River
nn
Tanga
Cha
tain
Secondary School, where Julius Nyerere no accommodation. tury Shirazi traders from Persia also began Wete
s
worked as a teacher before entering politics A boat to Bongoyo departs Msasani Slip- to make their way to East Africa, where
Pe m b a
A14 Tongoni Chake
full time. There’s a military base nearby, so way daily at 9.30am, 11.30am and 1.30pm, they established settlements on Pemba and Pemba Chake
use caution when taking photos. returning at 10.30am, 12.30pm and either probably also at Zanzibar’s Unguja Ukuu. Pangani River Maziwe
Pugu Hills (%0744-565498, 0744-394875; www.pugu 2.30pm or 4.30pm (US$10 return, mini- Between the 12th and 15th centuries Pangani
Mkoani
hills.com; entry TSh2000, camping TSh6000, 4-6 person ban- mum four people, including entry fees and the archipelago came into its own, as trade
das US$50) is a good, breezy place set on a hill- lunch). links with Arabia and the Persian Gulf See Zanziba Map (p131)
side backing onto a forest reserve. There’s blossomed. Zanzibar became a powerful
camping, four spacious en suite bandas
and a restaurant with vegetarian dishes and
other meals (meals TSh7000). Large groups
ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO city-state, supplying slaves, gold, ivory and
wood to places as distant as India and Asia,
while importing spices, glassware and tex-
Saadani
GR
Mkwaja
Mligaji
Tumbatu
Zanzibar
Za nz i ba r
and overland trucks cannot be accommo- The lure of the ‘spice islands’ is legendary. tiles. Along with the trade from the east
Zaraninge
dated. The compound is open for visiting at From exotic Stone Town with its fascinating came Islam and the Arabic architecture that FR Zanzibar
any time, but you’ll need to make a book- labyrinth of narrow streets, to palm-fringed still characterises the archipelago today. Riv
er Town
Cha
ing in advance by phone or email. Pick-ups beaches and pristine coral reefs, the archi- The arrival of the Portuguese in the early Wami
nne
from the airport (about 20 minutes away) pelago is a complete change of pace from the 16th century temporarily interrupted this Uzi
l
can be arranged. mainland with which it is linked as part of golden age, as Zanzibar and then Pemba fell Bagamoyo
er
Riv
the United Republic of Tanzania. under Portuguese control. Yet Portuguese
vu
Getting There & Away While Zanzibar gets most of the atten- dominance didn’t last long. It was challenged INDIAN
Ru
Daladalas to Kisarawe leave from Msim- tion, the archipelago is also made up of first by the British, who found Zanzibar an OCEAN
To Morogoro DAR ES
(195km) A7 SALAAM
bazi St in Kariakoo (Dar es Salaam), and Pemba to the north, plus numerous smaller amenable rest stop on the long journey to
from Nyerere Rd at the airport turn-off. For islands and islets offshore. Each of the main India, and then by Omani Arabs, who, in Latham
Pugu Hills camping ground and restaurant, islands has its own distinct character. Zan- the mid-16th century, gave the Portuguese
ask the driver to drop you at the old Agip zibar’s main attraction is Stone Town, with the routing that they probably deserved.
station (about 7km before Kisarawe, and its whitewashed, coral-rag houses, quaint By the early 19th century Oman had gained
about 7km past the airport). From here, shops, bazaars, mosques, courtyards and the upper hand on Zanzibar, and trade
continue along the Kisarawe road for about squares. Another draw card is its spectacu- on the island again flourished, centred on LEGEND
Kisiju FR Forest Reserve
200m, to the end of a tiny group of shops on lar turquoise sea, abounding in marine life slaves, ivory and cloves. Caravans set out for GR Game Reserve
MP Marine Park
your left, where there is a dirt path leading and striking coral formations and edged by the interior, and trade reached such a point B2
up to Pugu Hills (about 15 minutes further fine, white-sand beaches. Although many that in the 1840s the Sultan of Oman relo-
l
ne
on foot); ask for Bwana Kiki’s place. By places have become very developed, there cated his court here from the Persian Gulf.
an
Mafia
Ch
vehicle, from the old Agip station follow the are still some quiet and relatively unspoiled From the mid-19th century, with increas- Kibiti Island
a
Mafi
sealed road to the left, continue 1.2km, then spots left. ing European interest in East Africa and
turn right at a dirt path about 50m before The island of Pemba, in contrast, is sel- the end of the slave trade, Omani rule over Utete
Rufiji Kilindoni
River Mafia
the railroad tracks. Continue 2km uphill to dom visited and very laid-back. In addition Zanzibar began to weaken, and in 1862 the To Liwale To Lindi Island Juani
(235km) (215km)
Pugu Hills. to its attractive, hilly terrain, the island of- sultanate was formally partitioned. Zanzi- MP
fers an intriguing, largely undiscovered cul- bar became independent from Oman, with
OFFSHORE ISLANDS ture, some attractive offshore islands and Omani sultans ruling under a British pro- signed a declaration of unity with Tangan-
The islands of Bongoyo, Mbudya, Panga- challenging diving. tectorate. This arrangement lasted until 10 yika (mainland Tanzania) and the union,
vini and Fungu Yasini, just off the coast December 1963, when Zanzibar gained its fragile from the outset, became known as
of Dar es Salaam, were gazetted in 1975 as History independence. Just one month later, in Jan- the United Republic of Tanzania.
part of the Dar es Salaam Marine Reserve The archipelago’s history stretches back at uary 1964, the sultans were overthrown in Karume was assassinated in 1972, and
system. They boast pristine patches of sand, least to the start of the first millennium, a bloody revolution instigated by the ASP, Aboud Jumbe assumed the presidency of
a decent array of fish and enjoyable diving when Bantu-speaking peoples from the which then assumed power. On 12 April Zanzibar until resigning in 1984. A suc-
and snorkelling. The TSh1000 per person mainland first made the trip across the 1964 Abeid Karume, president of the ASP, cession of leaders followed, culminating in
130 Z A N Z I B A R A R C H I P E L A G O • • Z a n z i b a r www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z A N Z I B A R A R C H I P E L A G O • • Z a n z i b a r 131
Zanzibar (Ungula)
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
Given the ongoing history of political ZANZIBAR 0
0
10 km
6 miles
UNGUJA VS ZANZIBAR tensions on Zanzibar and Pemba, it’s a good
Unguja is the Swahili name for Zanzibar, idea to check your government’s travel ad- A B C D
and is often used locally to distinguish visory site (see p624) before planning your To Pemba
(50km) Ras Nungwi Kibweni
the island from the Zanzibar Archipelago travels. Nungwi Changuu
Chapwani
(which also includes Pemba), as well as from 1 Kendwa 3
Zanzibar Town. In this book, for ease of rec- ZANZIBAR 5
%024
Ras Kinunduni Bawi Mtoni
ognition, we’ve used Zanzibar. 2
Step off the boat (or plane) from the main- Tumbatu
1
land onto Zanzibar, and you’ll find yourself Mnemba Stone
Town
Gomari Popo Ng'ambo
2000 with the highly controversial election transported thousands of miles: to the an- Murogo Zanzibar
of Aman Abeid Karume, son of the first cient kingdom of Persia, to the Oman of by- Pange
Town
Mwanahaza
president. gone days with its caliphs and sultans, to the
Mkwajuni
Today the two major parties in the archi- west coast of India, with its sensual rhythms Mkokotoni Matemwe Mbweni
2 4
pelago are CCM and the opposition CUF, and heavily laden scents. While this reverie Nyange
which has its stronghold on Pemba. Tensions likely won’t last too long – hassles from the Kipange Pwani Kisauni
0 4 km
between the two peaked in the disputed 1995 island’s ever-present street touts will pull you Donge
Chaani New
Town
Mchangani
0 2 miles
national elections (see p108), and have been quickly back to reality – Zanzibar has an un-
simmering ever since. deniable allure that will continue to captivate Bumbwini
INFORMATION
Kinyasini
In 1999 negotiations moderated by the long after you’ve finished your visit. Zanzibar Tourist Corporation...(see 1)
Mangapwani Caves Mahonda
Commonwealth secretary general con- Most people who visit arrive first at Zan- Mangapwani
Kiwengwa SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
cluded with a brokered agreement between zibar Town, the island’s main population Livingstone House......................1 D1
Maruhubi Palace........................2 D1
the CCM and CUF. However, the tempo- centre and commercial hub. At the heart of Mbale
Mbweni Ruins..........................(see 4)
3 Selem Mtoni Palace..............................3 D1
rary hiatus this created was shattered by Zanzibar Town is the old Stone Town, with Mdogo
Mchangani Pongwe
the 2000 elections, and the resulting violent its labyrinthine alleyways and fascinating Chuini
Ras Uroa SLEEPING
Mbweni Ruins Hotel..................4 D2
incidents on Pemba in January 2001. Since architecture. Just beyond here, and within Mtoni Marine Centre &
Uzini
then, renewed efforts at dialogue between easy reach, is an unsurpassed collection of Fuji Beach Kidichi Uroa Mcheza Bar.......................... 5 D1
Bububu Persian Baths
the CCM and CUF have restored a fragile beaches where the sand is powdery white Minazini
Kibweni
calm, although this has been broken several and the sea ethereal shades of turquoise. Umbuji
Ras Michamvi
times, with violence leading up to and dur- Mtoni
Dunga Michamvi
Pingwe
INDIAN
Koani
ing the 2005 elections, and little progress Getting There & Around Stone Chwaka
Chwaka
B a y Michamvi OCEAN
has been made at resolving the underlying Getting to Zanzibar is very easy, with daily Town
Peninsula
4 Zanzibar
issues. flights plus several daily ferries between Dar Town Fuoni Jendele
Dongwe
es Salaam and Zanzibar Town. There are Mbweni
Tunguu
Dangers & Annoyances also daily flights between Zanzibar Town, See Enlargement
Kisauni
While Zanzibar remains a relatively safe Pemba and Tanga, and boat connections Jozani
Bwejuu
place, incidents of robberies, muggings several times weekly between Zanzibar and Chukwani
Bungi
Forest
and the like occur with some frequency, Pemba. Once on Zanzibar, taxi and motor- Chumbe
Jozani Paje
especially in Zanzibar Town and along the bike hire is quite affordable, and there’s a Mkunguni
Kitogani
beaches. Papasi (street touts) can also be network of cheap, slow and crowded dala- Menai
Bay
Pete
troublesome; see p133. dalas, or faster private minivans, that will Fumba
Unguja
Ukuu Jambiani
Take the normal precautions: avoid iso- take you wherever you want to go. 5
Sume
lated areas, especially isolated stretches of A Tanzanian visa (see p255) is required Uzi
beach, and keep your valuables out of view. to visit Zanzibar; there are no separate visa Miwi
Kikutani
If you go out at night in Zanzibar Town, requirements for the archipelago. Kwale
Z
an
take a taxi or walk in a group. Also avoid
zi
ba
Vundwe Makunduchi
walking alone in Stone Town during the pre- Orientation
r
Kufile
C
dawn and dawn hours. As a rule, it’s best to Zanzibar Town, on the western side of the Pungume Kibuteni
h
Kizimkazi
a
Dimbani
n
leave valuables in your hotel safe, preferably island, is the heart of the archipelago, and e
n
l Kizimkazi Mtende
sealed or locked. the first stop for most travellers. The best- Mkunguni
If you’ve hired a bicycle or motorcycle, known section by far is the old Stone Town, 6
Ras Kizimkazi
avoid isolated stretches of road, including surrounded on three sides by the sea and Menai Bay
Conservation Area
the section between Jambiani and Makun- bordered to the east by Creek Rd. Directly
duchi, on the southeast coast, and don’t stop east of Stone Town is the bustling but much To Dar es Salaam
(70km)
if you’re flagged down in isolated areas. less atmospheric section of Ng’ambo, which
TA N Z A N I A 132 Z A N Z I B A R A R C H I P E L A G O • • Z a n z i b a r www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z A N Z I B A R A R C H I P E L A G O • • Z a n z i b a r 133
TA N Z A N I A
and often also on Sunday – where you can TOURIST INFORMATION Tropical Tours (Map p134; %223 0868, 0747-413454;
DRESSING FOR SUCCESS change cash and travellers cheques with a The free quarterly Recommended in Zan- [email protected]; Kenyatta Rd) Opposite Mazsons
Zanzibar is a conservative, Muslim society. minimum of hassle. Rates vary, so it pays zibar has information on cultural events, Hotel; budget.
You’ll gain more respect and have fewer to shop around, and rates in Stone Town transport schedules, tide tables etc. Zan Tours (Map p134; %223 3042, 223 3116; www
hassles by respecting local customs, espe- are better than elsewhere on the island. Of- Zanzibar Tourist Corporation (Map p134; %223 .zantours.com) A wide range of high-quality upmarket
cially regarding dress, as many locals take ficially, accommodation on Zanzibar must 8630; [email protected]; Bububu rd) Headquarters in tours on the archipelago and beyond. It’s off Malindi St.
offence at scantily clad Westerners. For be paid for in US dollars, and prices are Livingstone House.
women, this means no sleeveless tops, and quoted in dollars, but especially at the Sights
preferably slacks, skirts or at least knee- budget places, it’s usually no problem to TRAVEL AGENCIES If Zanzibar Town is the archipelago’s heart,
length shorts. For men, it means shirts and pay the equivalent in shillings. For excursions around the island, and plane Stone Town is its soul, with a magical jum-
slacks or knee-length shorts. During Ram- Coastal Travels’ Local Currency Outlet (Map p134; and ferry tickets, agencies to try include ble of cobbled alleyways where it’s easy to
adan, you can respect local sensibilities by Shangani St) Next to Zanzibar Serena Inn, and run by the following. (Only make bookings and spend days wandering around and getting
not eating or drinking in public places. Coastal Travels; dollars or shillings on Visa or MasterCard at payments inside the offices, and not with lost – although you can’t get lost for long
rates similar to those in the Dar es Salaam office (p117). anyone outside claiming to be staff.) because, sooner or later, you’ll end up on
NBC (Map p134; Shangani St) Just before the tunnel; Eco + Culture Tours (Map p134; %223 0366; www either the seafront or on Creek Rd. Never-
you’ll pass through en route to some of the changes cash and travellers cheques, and has an ATM. .ecoculture-zanzibar.org; Hurumzi St) Opposite Emerson & theless, each twist and turn of the narrow
beaches. Almost all the listings mentioned Queens Bureau de Change (Map p134; Kenyatta Rd) Green hotel. streets brings something new, be it a school
in this section are in Stone Town. Shangani Forex Bureau (Map p134; Kenyatta Rd) Fernandes Tours & Safaris (Map p134; %223 0666; full of children chanting verses from the
[email protected]; Vuga St) Quran, a beautiful old mansion with over-
MAPS Costs Madeira Tours & Safaris (Map p134; %223 0406; hanging verandas, a coffee vendor with his
The widely available MaCo map has a de- Despite its initial appearance as a backpack- [email protected]) Just off Kenyatta Rd, opposite long-spouted pot fastened over coals, clack-
tailed map of Stone Town on one side and er’s paradise, Zanzibar is not the place to Baghani House Hotel; all price ranges. ing cups to attract custom, or a group of
Zanzibar on the other. come looking for rock-bottom prices. While Sama Tours (Map p134; %223 3543; samatours@zitec women in bui-bui (garments worn by Is-
it doesn’t need to be expensive, prices are .org; Hurumzi St) lamic women) sharing a joke and local gos-
Information higher than on the mainland, so you’ll need Suna Tours (Map p134; %223 7344) At the southwest- sip. Along the way, watch the island’s rich
BOOKSHOPS to work a bit to keep to a tight budget. Plan ern edge of Forodhani Gardens. cultural melange come to life: Arabic-style
Zanzibar Gallery (Map p134; %223 2721; gallery@ on at least US$10 to US$15 per night for
swahilicoast.com; cnr Kenyatta Rd & Gizenga St; h9am- accommodation, and from TSh8000 per
7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) A large selection of books day for food (unless you stick only to street PAPASI
and maps, including travel guides and Africa titles. food), plus extra for transport, excursions In Zanzibar Town, you’ll undoubtedly come into contact with street touts, known in Swahili as
and diving or snorkelling. During the low papasi (ticks). They are not registered guides, although they may carry (false) identification cards,
INTERNET ACCESS season or for extended stays, you’ll often be and while a few can be helpful, others can be aggressive and irritating. Many of the more annoy-
There are dozens of Internet cafés in Stone able to negotiate discounts, although even at ing ones are involved with Zanzibar’s drug trade, and are desperate for money for their next fix,
Town, including the following: the cheapest places it won’t go much below which means you are just asking for trouble if you arrange anything with them.
Hasina Soft Telecentre (Map p134; Kenyatta Rd; per US$8/16 per single/double. Many midrange If you do decide to use the services of a tout (and they’re hard to avoid if you’re arriving at
hr TSh1000; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-10pm Sat & and top-end hotels charge peak-season sup- the ferry dock for the first time and don’t know your way around), tell them where you want to
Sun) At Shangani post office. plements during August and the Christmas go or what you are looking for, and your price range. You shouldn’t have to pay anything ad-
Macrosoft Internet Café (Map p134; Hurumzi St; per to New Year holiday period. ditional, as many hotels pay commissions. If they tell you your hotel of choice no longer exists or
hr TSh500; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat) Prices are higher away from Stone Town, is full, take it with a grain of salt, as it could well be that they just want to take you somewhere
Shangani Internet Café (Map p134; Kenyatta Rd; per and at the beach budget hotels it can be dif- where they know they’ll get a better commission.
hr TSh1000; h8.30am-10pm) Just down from Shangani ficult to find a meal for less than TSh4000. Another strategy is to make your way out of the port arrivals area and head straight for a
post office. If you’re on a tight budget, consider stock- taxi. This will cost you more, and taxi drivers look for hotel commissions as well, but most are
ing up on food in Stone Town. Many hotels legitimate, and once you are ‘spoken for’, hassles from touts usually diminish.
MEDICAL SERVICES and restaurants close from March to May. One other thing about using papasi: most are hoping that your stay on the island will mean
Shamshu & Sons Pharmacy (Map p134; %223 1262, ongoing work for them as your guide, so if you do use one to help you find a hotel, he’ll invari-
223 3814; Market St; h9am-8.30pm Mon-Thu & Sat, POST ably be outside waiting for you later. If you’re not interested in this, explain so (politely) once
9am-noon & 3-8.30pm Fri, 9am-1.30pm Sun) Just behind Shangani post office (Map p134; Kenyatta Rd, Shangani) you’ve arrived at your hotel. If you want a guide to show you around Stone Town, it’s better to
(west of ) the market. Also has poste restante. arrange one with your hotel or a travel agency. For any dealings with the papasi, if you’re being
Zanzibar Medical Group (Map p134; %223 3134, hassled, a polite but firm approach usually works best – yelling or showing irritation, although
223 2200; cnr Kaunda & Vuga Rds; h9am-1pm & 5-8pm TELEPHONE quite tempting at times, won’t get you anywhere. Another thing to remember is that you have
Mon-Sat, 9am-11am Sun) Robin’s Collection (Map p134; Kenyatta Rd; h9am- a better chance of getting a discount on your hotel room if you arrive alone, since the hotel can
8pm Mon-Sat) International calls for US$2 per minute. then give you the discount that would have been paid to the touts as commission.
MONEY Shangani post office (Map p134; h8am-10pm Mon- When arranging tours and excursions, never make payments on the street – be sure you’re
There are many forex bureaus – most open Fri, 8.30am-9pm Sat & Sun) Operator-assisted calls from paying at a legitimate office, and get a receipt.
until about 8pm Monday through Saturday, TSh1800 per minute, and card phones.
Ὀ
ὈὈ
ὄ ὄ
134 Z A N Z I B A R A R C H I P E L A G O • • Z a n z i b a r T o w n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z A N Z I B A R A R C H I P E L A G O • • Z a n z i b a r 135
Zanzibar Town
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
0 200 m INFORMATION Mr Mitu's Office (Spice Tours).. 29 D2 China Plate Restaurant..............62 B1
ZANZIBAR TOWN 0 0.1 miles
Coastal Travels' Local Currency Msikiti wa Balnara.................... 30 D3 Emerson's & Green Tower
A B C D Outlet..................................... 1 A2 Old Dispensary......................... 31 D3 Top Restaurant...................(see 43)
ὄὄὄ
ὈὈ
Ὀ
To Pemba
Eco + Culture Tours.................... 2 C4 Old Fort & Zanzibar Cultural Fany's Green Restaurant...........63 B2
Fernandes Tours & Safaris...........3 B5 Centre..................................32 B4 La Fenice.................................. 64 A2
0 100 m
73
Hasina Soft Telecentre............(see 13) Old Slave Chambers...............(see 54) Livingstone Beach
65
33 Institute of Swahili & Foreign Old Slave Market....................(see 19) Restaurant............................65 B1
1 Old British 20
Languages.............................. 4 C5 One Ocean/The Zanzibar Mercury's................................. 66 C3
Consulate 61 7
56 Monsoon Restaurant................67 B4
62 69 Macrosoft Internet Café............. 5 C4 Dive Centre...........................33 B1
76 Madeira Tours & Safaris..............6 B2 St Joseph's Cathedral................34 B4 Passing Show............................ 68 D3
75 NBC Bank & ATM........................7 B1 State House..............................35 B6 Radha Food House....................69 B1
78
ὄὄὈ ὄ
77
Queens Bureau de Change.....(see 12) Victoria Hall & Gardens.............36 B6 Sambusa Two Tables
11 Gizenga St
Robin's Collection.......................8 B2 Restaurant............................70 B5
8
39 Sama Tours.................................9 B4 SLEEPING Shamshuddin's Cash & Carry.... 71 C4
Kelele 13 Shamshu & Sons Baghani House Hotel.................37 B2 Street Food.............................. 72 D4
55
Shangani
59 Square
Pharmacy..............................10 C4 Bandari Lodge.......................... 38 D2 Sweet Eazy................................73 B1
Shangani Customs & Shangani Forex Bureau..............11 B1 Beyt al-Chai..............................39 A2
Immigration
12 Shangani Internet Café.............12 B2 Chavda Hotel............................40 B2 DRINKING
St
63
2 Shangani Post Office.................13 B2 Clove Hotel.............................. 41 C4 Africa House Hotel....................74 B3
ὄὄ Ὀ ὄ
Ba
64 Suna Tours................................14 B4 Dharma Lounge......................(see 75)
Rd
1 53 gh 79 Dhow Palace.............................42 B2
an Zanzibar
iS 38 58 Tropical Tours...........................15 B2 Garage Club..............................75 B1
ta
15 t Channel Emerson & Green..................... 43 C4
Kenyat
60
Ciné Zan Tours................................. 16 D3 Flamingo Guest House..............44 C5 Starehe Club.............................76 A1
6 Afrique 51 Zanzibar Medical Group........... 17 A5 Florida Guest House..................45 B5
40
42 29 Garden Lodge...........................46 B5 ENTERTAINMENT
37
Ma
d
i R SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Haven Guest House..................47 B5 Culture Musical Club..............(see 45)
gun
law
74 30
68 Fun Aga Khan Mosque.................... 18 C3 Hotel International.................... 48 C4 Twinkling Stars.......................(see 59)
i
d 52
iR Rd
lind 16 Anglican Cathedral................... 19 C4 Hotel Kiponda...........................49 C3
Ma
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
ὄὈὈ
ὄὄ
Ὀ
ὈὈ
Ὀ
66 Bahari Divers.............................20 B1 Jambo Guest House.................. 50 C5 SHOPPING
31 To Matemwe (50km);
Nungwi (60km) Beit el-Ajaib (House of Malindi Guest House................ 51 D2 Memories of Zanzibar.............(see 12)
Big Tree
3
28 82 Wonders) & Zanzibar Malindi Lodge.......................... 52 D3 Zanzibar Gallery........................77 B1
Malindi
National Museum of Manch Lodge.........................(see 47)
Rd 80
ni Old Customs History & Culture.................21 B4 Mazsons Hotel..........................53 B2 TRANSPORT
inga Malindi
To Dar es Salaam Miz House St
Beit el-Amani St Monica's Hostel.................... 54 C5 Air Tanzania..............................78 B1
(70km) 24
St
(Peace Memorial Museum).. 22 C6 Shangani Hotel.........................55 B2 Asko Tours & Travel...............(see 13)
ni
baya Moto St
ko
m 49 Beit el-Amani (Peace Memorial Tembo House Hotel..................56 B1 Coastal Aviation.......................(see 1)
Nyu 18 Ko
26
ὄὄ
14
Museum) Natural History Victoria House..........................57 B5 Ferry Tickets............................. 79 D2
Rd
67 21 2 Collection............................. 23 C6 Warere Town House................ 58 D2 Kenya Airways........................(see 53)
ek
St Beit el-Sahel (Palace Museum) Zanzibar Serena Inn.................. 59 A2 Oman Air................................. 80 C3
See Enlargement Hurum zi Cre
32 41 5 43 & Makusurani Graveyard.... 24 C3 Precision Air............................(see 53)
zi St
Hurum Changa Baza ar Kipon Mlan Darajani Market....................... 25 D4 EATING Riverman Hotel......................... 81 C4
i St
da S dege
9 t St
Hurumzi Forodhani Gardens....................26 B3 Amore Mio............................... 60 A2 Traffic Police............................. 82 D3
ajan
48
4 Hamamni Persian Baths............ 27 C4 Archipelago Transport Stand........................ 83 D4
Dar
Gizenga St
Hamam 10
Ca
ni Ijumaa Mosque.........................28 C3 Café-Restaurant...................61 B1 ZanAir....................................(see 16)
th
St
ὄὄ
ὈὈ Ὀ
Shan
71
ed
34 ral
Shangani 27
St
gani
81 72
25 houses with their recessed inner courtyards death of Sultan Hamad (r 1893–96), to ab-
St
Ba 19
gh
an 83 rub shoulders with Indian-influenced build- dicate in favour of a British nominee. After
Rd
iS 54
t New M
Soko kuna ings boasting ornate balconies and lattice- it was rebuilt, Sultan Hamoud (r 1902–11)
So
Kenyatta
zin
ko
Muhogo iR
d Ng'ambo work, and bustling oriental bazaars alternate used the upper floor as a residential palace
Mu
ho
50 with lively street-side vending stalls. until his death. Inside are exhibits on the
go
St
ὄὄ
di While the best part of Stone Town is sim- dhow culture of the Indian Ocean, Swahili
St
a Mkunazini
alw
5 Pip
t
ply letting it unfold before you, it’s worth civilisation and 19th-century Zanzibar, plus
i S
Vuga 44 To Jozani Forest (35km);
zin
17 3 East Coast Beaches;
47
putting in an effort to see its major features. smaller displays on kangas (printed cotton
na
Jamhuri Kizimkazi (60km);
ku
Rd
Makunduchi (65km)
M
High 46 45 Gardens
Court Vug
a R wraparound, incorporating a Swahili prov-
ek
d
Cre
70 57
4
BEIT EL-AJAIB (HOUSE OF WONDERS) erb, worn by women) and the history of
Beit el-Ajaib – home to the Zanzibar National Stone Town. There’s also a life-sized mtepe
Ka
Museum of History & Culture (Map p134; %223 0873; (a traditional Swahili sailing vessel made
un
36
da
Mizingani Rd; admission US$3; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to without nails, the planks held together only
Rd
Zanzibar Mu 3pm Sat & Sun) – is one of the largest struc- with coconut fibres and wooden pegs).
M
35 seu
Channel tures in Zanzibar. It was built in 1883 by
ap
m
ind
Rd 23
6 Sultan Barghash (r 1870–88) as a ceremo-
uz
BEIT EL-SAHEL (PALACE MUSEUM)
iR
d
22
Mnazi Mmoja
Cricket Grounds
nial palace. In 1896 it was the target of a Just north of the Beit el-Ajaib, is Beit el-Sahel
Mnazi Mmoja British naval bombardment, the object of (Map p134; Mizingani Rd; admission US$3; h9am-6pm
Hospital
To Mbweni Ruins
Hotel (5km);
which was to force Khalid bin Barghash, Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun). This palace served as
Airport (7km) who had tried to seize the throne after the the sultan’s residence until 1964 when the
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TA N Z A N I A
dynasty was overthrown. Now it’s a museum cathedral, which was designed by French FORODHANI GARDENS House (p156) in Wete for diving around
devoted to the era of the Zanzibar sultanate. architect Beranger, celebrated its centenary One of the best ways to ease into life on the Pemba.
The ground floor displays details of the in 1998, and is still in active use. island is to stop by Forodhani Gardens (Jami- One Ocean/The Zanzibar Dive Centre (Map p134;
formative period of the sultanate from 1828 turi Gardens; Map p134) in the evening, %223 8374, 0748-750161; www.zanzibaroneocean.com)
to 1870. There is also memorabilia of Prin- MOSQUES when the grassy plaza comes alive with doz- is a PADI five-star centre with more than a
cess Salme, a Zanzibari princess who eloped The oldest of Stone Town’s mosques is ens of vendors serving up such delicacies as decade of experience on Zanzibar. They have
with a German to Europe, and later wrote an Msikiti wa Balnara (Malindi Minaret Mosque; grilled pweza (octopus), plates of goat meat, several branches, including at Matemwe
autobiography. The exhibits on the 2nd floor Map p134), originally built in 1831, en- Zanzibari pizza (rolled-up, omelette-filled Beach Village (p146), and organise dives
focus on the period of affluence from 1870 to larged in 1841 and extended again by Seyyid chapati), a thick, delicious local version of along the east coast, as well as around Stone
1896, during which modern amenities such Ali bin Said in 1890. Others include the Aga naan, plus piles of chips, samosas and more. Town. The main office – just down from the
as piped water and electricity were intro- Khan Mosque (Map p134) and the impressive The gardens are also a social meeting point, tunnel and NBC bank – hires underwater
duced to Zanzibar under Sultan Barghash. Ijumaa Mosque (Map p134). It’s not permitted with women sitting on the grass chatting cameras, prescription masks and Suunto
The 3rd floor consists of the modest living to enter many of the mosques, as they’re all about the events of the day, children play- computers.
quarters of the last sultan, Khalifa bin Ha- in active use, although exceptions may be ing and men strolling along the waterfront.
roub (r 1911–60), and his two wives, each of made if you are appropriately dressed. The gardens are along the seafront opposite SPICE TOURS
whom clearly had very different tastes in fur- the Old Fort. While spices no longer dominate Zanzi-
niture. Outside is the Makusurani graveyard, HAMAMNI PERSIAN BATHS bar’s economy as they once did, plantations
where some of the sultans are buried. Built by Sultan Barghash in the late 19th DARAJANI MARKET still dot the centre of the island. It’s pos-
century, these baths (Map p134; Hamamni St; admis- The dark, narrow passageways of chaotic sible to visit them – learning about what
OLD FORT sion TSh500), which are no longer functioning, Darajani market (Map p134) assault the cloves, vanilla and other spices look like
Just south of the Beit el-Ajaib is the Old Fort were the first public baths on Zanzibar. To senses, with occasional whiffs of spices mix- in the wild – on ‘spice tours’. These half-
(Map p134), a massive, bastioned structure get in, ask the caretaker across the alley to ing with the stench of fish, the clamour of day excursions take in some plantations, as
originally built around 1700 on the site of a unlock the gate. vendors hawking their wares, brightly col- well as ruins and other sights of historical
Portuguese chapel by Omani Arabs as a de- oured piles of fruits and vegetables, and doz- interest.
fence against the Portuguese. In recent years BEIT EL-AMANI ens of small shops selling everything from To organise things, try Mr Mitu’s office
it has been partially renovated to house the (PEACE MEMORIAL MUSEUM) plastic tubs to auto spares. It’s just off Creek (%223 4636), signposted off Malawi Rd near
Zanzibar Cultural Centre, and the offices of the The larger of the two buildings that make Rd, and at its best in the morning, before the Ciné Afrique. Tours cost US$10 per person
Zanzibar International Film Festival (ZIFF). up Beit el-Amani (Map p134; cnr Kaunda & Creek Rds) heat and the crowds, and when everything in a group of 15, and include a lunch of
Inside is an open-air theatre for music and previously contained a history of the island is still fresh. local food seasoned with some of the spices
dance performances. from its early days until independence, while you’ve just seen. They depart about 9.30am
the smaller building across the road housed VICTORIA HALL & GARDENS and return by about 2.30pm (later, if a stop
ANGLICAN CATHEDRAL & OLD SLAVE a decaying natural history collection. Both The imposing Victoria Hall, which is diago- at Mangapwani Beach is included). It’s best
MARKET are in the process of being merged with the nally across from Mnazi Mmoja hospital on to book a day in advance, though it’s usually
Constructed in the 1870s by the Univer- Zanzibar National Museum of History & Kaunda Rd, housed the legislative council no trouble to just show up in the morning.
sities’ Mission to Central Africa (UMCA), Culture at Beit el-Ajaib (p135), and are cur- during the British era. Today it’s closed to
the Anglican cathedral (Map p134; admission TSh1000; rently closed. the public, as is the State House, opposite. Festivals & Events
h8am-6pm Mon-Sat) was the first Anglican ca- Muslim holidays are celebrated in a big way
thedral in East Africa. It was built on the LIVINGSTONE HOUSE Activities on Zanzibar; see p624. Other festivals in-
site of the old slave market alongside Creek About 2km north of town, Livingstone House DIVING & SNORKELLING clude Mwaka Kogwa, the ZIFF and Sauti za
Rd, although nothing remains of the slave (Map p131; Bububu Rd) was built around 1860 and For more on diving around the archipelago, Busara; for more information see p253.
market today other than some holding cells used as a base by many European mission- see p138. Most of the archipelago’s dive op-
under St Monica’s Hostel next door. Services aries and explorers before they started their erators also offer snorkelling. Equipment Sleeping
are still held at the cathedral on Sundays; the journeys to the mainland. David Living- hire costs from US$5 to US$15; when you’re BUDGET
entrance is next to St Monica’s Hostel. stone also stayed here before setting off on selecting it, pay particular attention to get- Mkunazini
his last expedition. The building now houses ting a good mask. Most snorkelling sites are The following places are on the eastern edge
ST JOSEPH’S CATHEDRAL the Zanzibar Tourist Corporation. You can only accessible by boat. Trips average US$20 of town near the Anglican cathedral:
The spires of St Joseph’s Roman Catholic cathe- walk from town, or take a ‘B’ daladala. to US$50 per half day, often including a St Monica’s Hostel (Map p134; %223 0773; monicas
dral (Map p134; Cathedral St) are one of the first snack or lunch. Recommended operators [email protected]; s/d/tr with shared bathroom
sights travellers see when arriving at Zan- OLD DISPENSARY include the following: US$12/24/36, s/d with private bathroom US$28/32) An
zibar by ferry. Yet the church is deceptively Near the port, the Old Dispensary (Map p134; Bahari Divers (Map p134; %0748-245786, 0747- old, rambling place next to the Anglican
difficult to find in the narrow confines of the Mizingani Rd) was built at the turn of the 20th 415011; www.zanzibar-diving.com) is a small, family- cathedral, with spacious rooms, includ-
adjacent streets. (Follow Kenyatta Rd to Gi- century by a wealthy Indian merchant. It has friendly outfit that primarily organises dives ing some with a small veranda, and an in-
zenga St, then take the first right to the back been renovated by the Aga Khan Charitable around the islands offshore from Stone expensive restaurant next door.
gate of the church, which is usually open, Trust, and now houses boutiques and shops, Town. The office is near NBC bank. They Flamingo Guest House (Map p134; %223 2850;
even when the front entrance is closed.) The and small displays of local artists’ work. also have a base opposite Sharouk Guest [email protected]; Mkunazini St; s/d
TA N Z A N I A 138 Z A N Z I B A R A R C H I P E L A G O • • Z a n z i b a r www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z A N Z I B A R A R C H I P E L A G O • • Z a n z i b a r 139
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Haven Guest House (Map p134; %223 5677/8; Clean and nicely decorated, and with hot
DIVING THE ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO s/d US$15/25) Clean rooms, a travellers’ bul- water and cheaper annex rooms nearby; it’s
The archipelago’s turquoise waters are just as amazing below the surface as they are from above, letin board, free coffee and tea and a small just around the corner from Malindi Guest
with a magnificent array of hard and soft corals, and a diverse collection of sea creatures, in- kitchenette. House.
cluding shadowy manta rays, hawksbill and green turtles, barracudas and sharks. Other draws Manch Lodge (Map p134; %223 1918; moddybest@ Hotel Kiponda (Map p134; % 223 3052; hotel
include the possibility of wall dives, especially off Pemba; the fascinating cultural backdrop; and yahoo.com; r per person US$10) Around the cor- [email protected]; Nyumba ya Moto St; s/d/tr with
the opportunity to combine wildlife safaris with underwater exploration. On the down side, ner from Haven Guest House, and similar, shared bathroom US$18/35/45, d/tr with private bathroom
visibility isn’t as reliable as in some areas of the world, although sometimes you’ll be treated to though without the kitchenette; some rooms US$45/55) Spotless rooms in a convenient lo-
ranges of 25m to 30m. Another thing to consider, if you’re a serious diver and coming to the have bathroom. cation, tucked away in a small lane near the
archipelago exclusively for diving, is that unless you do a live-aboard arrangement, you’ll need to waterfront. There’s also a restaurant.
travel – often for up to an hour – to many of the dive sites. And prices are considerably higher Vuga
than in places like the Red Sea or Thailand. Near the southern edge of Stone Town, MIDRANGE
around Vuga Rd: Shangani
Seasons Florida Guest House (Map p134; %0747-421421, Most midrange places are in or near
Diving is possible year-round, although conditions vary dramatically. Late March until mid-June 0747-411335; [email protected]; Vuga Rd; r per per- Shangani.
is generally the least favourable time because of erratic weather patterns and frequent storms. son US$15) Small, clean rooms (check out a Baghani House Hotel (Map p134; %223 5654;
However, even during this period you can have some good days, particularly in March when few as they’re all different) – many with [email protected]; s US$40, d US$50-60) This at-
water temperatures are also warmer. July or August through to February or March tend to be bathroom – and solicitous proprietors. It’s mospheric hotel has characterful rooms –
the best overall, although again, conditions vary and wind is an important factor. On Pemba, for next to Culture Musical Club, and there are most on the upper level, reached via a steep
example, the southeastern seas can be rough around June and July when the wind is blowing discounts for stays of over two days. staircase – dark wood and Zanzibari furnish-
from the south, but calm and clear as glass from around November to late February when the Garden Lodge (Map p134; %223 3298; gardenlodge@ ings. Advance bookings and reconfirmations
monsoon winds blow from the north. On both islands, the calmest time is generally from around zanlink.com; Kaunda Rd; s/d/tr downstairs US$15/25/35, are recommended. It’s just off Kenyatta Rd.
September to November during the lull between the annual monsoons. upstairs US$25/40/50) Friendly, family-run and Chavda Hotel (Map p134; %223 2115; chavda@
Water temperatures range from lows of about 22°C in July and August to highs of about 29°C somewhat pricier than others in this cat- zanzinet.com, Baghani St; s/d US$70/90) Chavda is a
in February and March, with the average about 26°C. Throughout, 3mm wetsuits are standard; egory, but the location – diagonally across quiet, reliable hotel with some period décor,
4mm suits are recommended for some areas during the July to September winter months, and from the High Court – is convenient and a range of bland, carpeted rooms with TV,
2mm are fine from around December to March or April. the upstairs rooms are spacious and good telephone and minibar, and a rooftop bar and
value. restaurant (high season only). It’s just around
Victoria House (Map p134; %223 2861; r per person the corner from Baghani House Hotel.
Costs, Courses & Planning with shared bathroom US$10) Dilapidated but spa- Mazsons Hotel (Map p134; %223 3694; mazsons@
Costs are somewhat cheaper on Zanzibar than on Pemba. Expect to pay from US$350 for a four- cious rooms, including a quad with its own zanlink.com; Kenyatta Rd; s/d US$60/80; a) The long-
day Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) open-water course, about US$45/75 for a shower, and an agreeably green location just standing Mazsons has impressively restored
single-/double-dive package, and from about US$50 for a night dive. Most places discount about off Kaunda Rd. lobby woodwork and a convenient location
10% if you have your own equipment, and for groups. In addition to open-water certification, that go some way to compensating for its
many operators also offer other courses, including Advanced Open Water, Medic First Aid, Rescue Malindi soulless rooms.
Diver, and speciality courses including underwater photography and navigation. On the northern side of town, and about a Shangani Hotel (Map p134; %223 3688, 223 6363;
As for deciding where to dive: very generally speaking, Zanzibar is known for the corals and five-minute walk from the port, is another [email protected]; Kenyatta Rd; s/d US$65/80)
shipwrecks offshore from Stone Town, and for fairly reliable visibility, high fish diversity and the clutch of lodges: An unpretentious place opposite Shangani
chance to see pelagics to the north and northeast. While some sites are challenging, there are Malindi Guest House (Map p134; %223 0165; ma post office with cluttered but comfortable
many easily accessed sites for beginner and midrange divers. [email protected]; s/d with shared bathroom US$20/30, rooms, most with TV, fridge and fan. It also
Unlike Zanzibar, which is a continental island, Pemba is an oceanic island located in a deep with private bathroom US$25/40; a) Whitewashed has a restaurant.
channel with a steeply dropping shelf. Because of this, diving tends to be more challenging, walls and atmospheric rooms.
with an emphasis on wall and drift dives, though there are some sheltered areas for begin- Warere Town House (Map p134; %223 3835; www Elsewhere in Stone Town
ners, especially around Misali Island. Most dives are to the west around Misali, and to the north .wareretownhouse.com; s/d US$20/40) Good-value Outside the Shangani area are several more
around the Njao Gap. rooms – some with small balconies and all choices.
For more on diving, see p619. Dive operators are listed by location elsewhere in this chapter. with hot water and fan – plus a rooftop ter- Clove Hotel (Map p134; % 0747-484567; www
race. It’s just minutes from the port, around .zanzibarhotel.nl; Hurumzi St; s/d US$30/45, family r US$55)
the corner from Bandari Lodge. Painted in pleasing shades of lavender and
with shared bathroom US$8/16, with private bathroom mingo Guest House, Jambo has free tea Bandari Lodge (Map p134; %223 7969, 0747-423638; peach, Clove has good-value rooms with
US$10/20) No-frills but fine, with straight- and coffee, clean rooms and an Iternet café r per person US$12) Straightforward rooms, plus nets and fan. The family rooms also have
forward rooms and a TV. They’re often opposite. a common kitchen and fridge. Turn right small balconies with views down onto the
willing to negotiate on prices. as you exit the port; it’s just two minutes small square below. On the rooftop is a ter-
Jambo Guest House (Map p134; %223 3779; jambo Soko Muhogo ahead. race for breakfast, drinks and views.
[email protected]; s/d/tr with shared bathroom US$15/ South of Mkunazini, off Soko Muhogo St, Malindi Lodge (Map p134; %223 2350; sunset Hotel International (Map p134; %223 3182; hotel
20/30; a) Just around the corner from Fla- are a few more good places: [email protected]; Funguni Rd; s/d US$15/25; a) [email protected]; s/d US$45/60; a) This cavernous,
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multistorey place is just off Kiponda St, with proximity to the town as well as greenery coconut curry, and orange and ginger snap- Zanzibar Serena Inn (%223 2306, 223 3587; zser
a forex bureau, a restaurant and rather soul- and relaxing surroundings. per, plus an array of homemade cakes and [email protected]; meals TSh9000; hlunch & dinner)
less rooms, though some aren’t bad. Check Mbweni Ruins Hotel (Map p131; %223 5478/9; sweets. There’s no bar, but you can bring Fine dining overlooking the sea, with a Swa-
a few, and avoid those on the lower floor. www.mbweni.com; s/d US$100/180; as) Mbweni your own alcohol. hili buffet (US$25) on Wednesday evening.
Most have TV, fridge and small balcony, and is a quiet, genteel establishment set in won- Sweet Eazy (Map p134; %0745-768433; meals Livingstone Beach Restaurant (%0748-694803;
there’s a rooftop terrace. derful, lushly vegetated gardens about 5km TSh5000-10,000; hnoon-midnight) With its relax- meals TSh7000-10,000) A new place in the old
from town, and several kilometres off the ing ambience, good Thai and African cuisine, British Consulate Building, and opposite
TOP END airport road. In addition to well-appointed and varied entertainment offerings, this place Sweet Eazy, about to open when we passed
Shangani rooms and a relaxing ambience, it has stands is one of Stone Town’s more popular evening through, with beachside seating and seafood
Zanzibar Serena Inn (Map p134; %223 3587; zserena@ of mangroves for bird-watching and a very destinations. It’s also one of the few spots in and other dishes.
zanzinet.com; Kelele Sq; s/d from US$210/265; as) good restaurant, and is well worth a splurge. town where you can get food late at night. It’s
The Zanzibar Serena, in the refurbished Ex- The property was formerly the site of the on the waterfront near NBC bank. QUICK EATS
telecoms House, is Zanzibar Town’s most UMCA mission school for the children of Emerson’s & Green Tower Top Restaurant (Map Forodhani Gardens (meals TSh500; hdinner) These
upmarket accommodation, with a beautiful freed slaves. p134; % 0747-423266; www.emerson-green.com; Hu- waterside gardens (p137) feature vendors
setting on the water, plush rooms with all Mtoni Marine Centre (Map p131; %225 0140; rumzi St; meals US$25-30; hdinner) Dinner at this selling piles of grilled fish and meat, chips
the amenities, and a business centre. [email protected]; s/d US$60/80, deluxe s/d US$80/120, rooftop restaurant has become a Zanzibari and snacks, served up on a paper plate or
Beyt al-Chai (Map p134; %0747-444111; www.stone 4-/6-person bungalows US$60/90; ais) This institution, and while its popularity means rolled into a piece of newspaper, and eaten
towninn.com; Kelele Sq; s US$75-200, d US$100-225) A family-friendly establishment has a range of that it is no longer the intimate dining experi- while sitting on benches or the lawn, soaking
good new place opposite Zanzibar Serena rooms plus some older cottages set around ence it once was, it still makes an enjoyable up the atmosphere and enjoying the pass-
Inn, with six rooms, each individually de- pleasant gardens. It has a nice beach, a evening out. The menu is fixed, and reserva- ing scene. Locals advise against eating fish
signed, and all with period décor. For a popular waterside bar and good dining in tions are essential. On Friday, Saturday and and meat during the height of the low season
splurge, try one of the Sultan suites, with the main restaurant. It’s about 3km north Sunday, meals are served to a backdrop of (when food turnover is slower), but countless
views to the sea in the distance, and raised of town along the Bububu road. traditional music and dance. travellers come here, and we’ve never heard
Jacuzzi-style baths. Mtoni Marine Centre (Map p131; %225 0140; of any problems. Watch for overcharging.
Tembo House Hotel (Map p134; %223 3005; www Eating [email protected]; meals TSh8000-TSh20,000; hdinner) For a much more subdued version of
.tembohotel.com; s/d from US$85/95; as) This at- Note that during the low season and Ram- The main restaurant here offers a range of Forodhani, without the sea views, head to
tractively restored building has a waterfront adan many restaurants close or operate for seafood and meat grills, and waterside bar- Creek Rd opposite Darajani market, where a
location, and modern rooms – some with sea reduced hours. becues (TSh17,500) on Tuesday and Sat- small collection of vendors serve up equally
views – in new and old wings. Most have a urday, with a backdrop of taarab or other good street food at rock-bottom prices.
TV and fridge. The hotel also has a restaurant RESTAURANTS traditional music. There are also plenty of local-style places
and a buffet breakfast. No alcohol is served; La Fenice (Map p134; %0747-411868; Shangani St; meals Mercury’s (% 223 3076; meals about TSh5000; where you can eat well for under TSh3000:
the hotel is a favourite with tour groups. about TSh8000; hlunch & dinner) A breezy little h10am-midnight) Named in honour of Queen Passing Show (Map p134; Malawi Rd; meals from TSh500)
Dhow Palace (Map p134; %223 3012; dhowpalace@ patch of Italy on the waterfront, with out- vocalist Freddie Mercury (who was born A Zanzibar institution, with piping hot bowls of beans and
zanlink.com; s/d US$60/90; hJun-Mar; s) This is door tables where you can enjoy your pasta just a few blocks away), this is one of Stone rice, spicy biriyani and similar fare.
another classic place with old Zanzibari while gazing out at the turquoise sea in front Town’s main waterside hang-outs. On offer Fany’s Green Restaurant (Map p134; %223 3918;
décor, a fountain in the tastefully restored of you. For dessert, try a scoop of homemade are seafood grills and pizzas, a well-stocked h7.30am-10pm; meals TSh3500) More tourist-oriented.
lobby and small but well-appointed rooms. ice cream. bar and a terrace that’s a prime location for Near Shangani post office.
It’s just off Kenyatta Rd. Amore Mio (Map p134; Shangani St; hhigh season) sipping sundowners. Shamshuddin’s Cash & Carry (Map p134; Soko St)
Across the road from La Fenice. This has de- Radha Food House (%223 4808; thalis TSh4500) Behind Darajani market. The best bet for self-caterers.
Hurumzi lectable ice cream as well as light meals, cap- This great little place is tucked away on the
Emerson & Green (Map p134; %0747-423266; www puccino and other coffees, served against a small side street just before the Shangani Drinking & Entertainment
.emerson-green.com; Hurumzi St; r US$165-200) Emerson wonderful seaside backdrop. tunnel. The menu – strictly vegetarian – has Stone Town isn’t known for its nightlife, but
& Green – in two adjacent historic buildings Monsoon Restaurant (Map p134; %0747-411362, thalis, lassis, homemade yogurt and other there are a few popular spots.
that have been completely restored – is full 0747-410410; meals TSh4000-12,000; hnoon-midnight) dishes from the subcontinent.
of character and has become a Zanzibar in- The impeccably decorated Monsoon offers Sambusa Two Tables Restaurant (%223 1979; BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
stitution. Each room is unique – one even traditional dining on floor cushions, and meals TSh10,000; hdinner) For sampling authen- Africa House Hotel (Map p134; Shangani St) Sun-
has its own private rooftop teahouse – and Swahili cuisine served to a backdrop of tic Zanzibari dishes, it’s hard to beat this downers daily from the upstairs terrace bar
all are decadently decorated to give you an taarab music, ngoma or kidumbak. It’s at the small, family-run restaurant off Kaunda Rd, overlooking the sea.
idea of what Zanzibar must have been like southwestern edge of Forodhani Gardens. where the proprietors bring out course after Sweet Eazy (Map p134; %0745-768433; znz@sweet
in its heyday. It’s several winding blocks east Archipelago Café-Restaurant (Map p134; %223 course of delicious local delicacies. Advance eazy.com) Live music Friday and Saturday
of the Old Fort. 5668; mains from TSh3500-6000; h lunch & dinner) reservations are required. evenings, daily happy hour and sundowners
This new place has a breezy location on a China Plate Restaurant (%0744-490796; meals overlooking the water. See also left).
Outside Stone Town 1st-floor terrace overlooking the water just TSh3000-6000; hlunch & dinner) Tasty Chinese food Mercury’s (Map p134; %223 3076) Waterside
Just outside Stone Town are a few more op- opposite NBC bank in Shangani, and has a served on a breezy 1st-floor terrace over- sundowners, and live music many nights.
tions that make agreeable bases if you want menu featuring such delicacies as vegetable looking the water. It’s just next to NBC. See also left.
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Garage Club (Map p134; Shangani St; hfrom 10pm souvenirs, textiles, woodcarvings, antiques Precision Air (Map p134; %223 4521; Kenyatta Rd) permits can be obtained on the spot at the
Wed-Mon) Stone Town’s main disco. Diagonally and more, in addition to its books. Next to Mazsons Hotel. traffic police office (Malindi, cnr Malawi & Creek Rds)
across from Tembo House Hotel; taxis wait Memories of Zanzibar (%223 9376; memories@ ZanAir (Map p134; %223 3670) Just off Malindi Rd, for TSh6000, or through any tour company.
outside. zanzinet.com; Kenyatta Rd) Just down the road, with opposite Ciné Afrique. Daily hire rates average about US$25 for
Dharma Lounge (Shangani St; h5pm-late Wed-Mon; a selection of jewellery, textiles and curios. a moped, US$30 for a motorcycle, and from
a) Zanzibar’s first and only cocktail lounge, BOAT US$50 to US$70 for a Suzuki 4WD. You
with a good selection of music. It’s next to Getting There & Away For ferry connections between Zanzibar can hire through any of the tour companies;
the Garage Club. AIR and Dar es Salaam, see p125. For ferry con- through Asko Tours & Travel (Map p134; %0747-
Mcheza Bar (Map p131; Mtoni Marine Centre) A Daily flights with Coastal Aviation and nections between Zanzibar and Pemba, see 422841; [email protected]; Kenyatta Rd), next to
sports bar that draws a mainly expat crowd. ZanAir connect Zanzibar with Dar es Sa- p154 and p157. You can get tickets at the Shangani post office; or by asking around
See also p140. laam (US$55), Arusha (US$140 to US$175), port or through a travel agent. If you leave in front of the market, near the bus stand.
Starehe Club (Shangani St) Very laid-back Pemba (US$70), Selous Game Reserve Zanzibar on the Flying Horse night ferry, If you’re not mechanically minded, bring
(sometimes it doesn’t happen at all), with (US$130) and the northern parks. Coastal take care with your valuables, especially someone along who can check that the
occasional reggae nights. Aviation also goes daily to/from Tanga via when the boat docks in Dar es Salaam in motorbike or vehicle you’re hiring is in rea-
Pemba (US$80). Air Tanzania flies daily the early morning hours. sonable condition, and take a test drive. Full
TRADITIONAL MUSIC & DANCE between Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam, with Foreigners are not permitted on dhows payment is usually required at the time of de-
On Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday even- connections to Nairobi, and Precision Air/ between Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar. For livery, but don’t pay any advance deposits.
ings from 7pm to 10pm, there are tradi- Kenya Airways have direct flights between other routes, ask around at the beach behind
tional ngoma performances at the Old Fort Zanzibar, Dar es Salaam, Nairobi and Tembo House Hotel (p140), though cap- DALADALAS
(TSh5000, with dinner TSh10,000), although Mombasa. tains are generally unwilling to take tourists. Open-sided pick-ups (daladalas) packed
be prepared for rather flat tourist displays. There are direct international connections Allow from 10 to 48 hours or more to reach with people and produce link all major
from Zanzibar on Oman Air via Muscat. the mainland. Also see p261. towns on the island, leaving from Creek
Shopping Airline offices in Zanzibar Town include Rd opposite Darajani market. For most des-
Stone Town has wonderfully atmospheric the following: TRAIN tinations, including all the main beaches,
craft shopping, and if you can sort your way Air Tanzania (Map p134;%223 0213; Shangani St) Riverman Hotel (Map p134), near the An- there are several vehicles daily, with the last
through some of the kitsch, there are some Diagonally across from Tembo Hotel. glican Cathedral, makes bookings for the ones back to Stone Town departing by about
excellent buys to be found. The best place Coastal Aviation (Map p134; %223 3112, 0747- Tazara line for a TSh1000 fee; you pay for 3pm or 4pm. None of the routes cost more
to start is Gizenga St, which is lined with 334582) Next to Zanzibar Serena Inn, and at the airport. the ticket at the Tazara station in Dar es than TSh1000, and all take plenty of time
small shops and craft dealers. Kenya Airways (Map p134; %223 4521; Kenyatta Rd) Salaam. (eg about three hours from Zanzibar Town
Zanzibar Gallery (Map p134; %223 2721; gallery@ Together with Precision Air. to Jambiani). Commonly used routes:
swahilicoast.com; cnr Kenyatta Rd & Gizenga St; h9am- Oman Air (Map p134; %223 8308; Mizingani Rd) Just Getting Around
7pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun) Has a large collection of southeast of the Big Tree. TO/FROM THE AIRPORT Route Destination
The airport is about 7km southeast of
Zanzibar Town and it costs TSh6000 to 101 Mkokotoni
TAARAB MUSIC TSh10,000 to travel between them in a taxi, 116 Nungwi
No visit to Zanzibar would be complete without spending an evening listening to the evocative depending on your negotiating skills. The 117 Kiwengwa
strains of taarab, the archipelago’s most famous musical export, combining African, Arabic and No 505 bus line also does this route, depart- 118 Matemwe
Indian influences. ing from the corner opposite Mnazi Mmoja 121 Donge
Taarab-style music was played in Zanzibar as early as the 1820s at the sultan’s palace, where hospital. Many Stone Town hotels offer free 206 Chwaka
it had been introduced from Arabia. However, it wasn’t until the 1900s, when Sultan Seyyid airport pick-ups for confirmed bookings, 214 Uroa
Hamoud bin Muhammed encouraged formation of the first taarab clubs, that it became more though some charge. Hotels elsewhere on 308 Unguja Ukuu
formalised. The performances themselves are quite an event, and audience participation is key. the island charge about US$30, depending 309 Jambiani
There is also always a singer involved, with themes centring around love, and many puns and on location. 310 Makunduchi
double meanings intertwined. 324 Bwejuu
Famous taarab singers include Siti Binti Saad, who was the first taarab singer on the ar- CAR & MOTORCYCLE 326 Kizimkazi
chipelago, and Bi Kidude, the first lady of taarab music, who helped popularise taarab clubs. It’s easy to arrange car, moped or motor- 501 Amani
Today most Zanzibaris distinguish between ‘old taarab’, which is played by an orchestra using cycle hire. Prices are reasonable, although 502 Bububu
primarily traditional instruments, and ‘modern taarab’, which expands taarab’s traditional base breakdowns are fairly common, as are 504 Fuoni
with keyboards, guitars and synthesised sound. moped accidents. Considering how small 505 Airport (marked ‘U/Ndege’)
For an introduction to taarab music you can stop by the Zanzibar Serena Inn (p140), where the island is, it’s often more straightforward 509 Chukwani
a group called the Twinkling Stars plays from about 6pm to 7.30pm on Tuesday and Friday. For and not that much more expensive just to 510 Mtoni/Kidatu
something livelier, head to the Culture Musical Club (Map p134; Vuga Rd; admission TSh1000, sometimes work out a good deal with a taxi driver.
free; hTue-Sat), with rehearsals from about 7.30pm Monday to Friday. An excellent time to see You’ll need either an international driving PRIVATE MINIVAN
taarab performances is during the Festival of the Dhow Countries (p253) in July. licence, a licence from Kenya, Uganda or Private minivans run daily to Nungwi and
South Africa, or a Zanzibar permit. Zanzibar to Paje, Bwejuu and Jambiani on the east
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coast, although stiff competition and hassles turret and a mosque. By the mid-1880s it sive accommodation, the best choices are at Amaan Bungalows that changes cash and
with touts mean that a splurge on a taxi isn’t had been abandoned, and today nothing re- Nungwi in the north, followed by Paje on the travellers cheques at bad rates.
a bad idea. Book through any travel agency mains of Mtoni’s grandeur other than a few east coast. Bwejuu and Jambiani on the east
the day before you want to travel, and the walls, although you can get an idea of how coast are also popular – and among the fin- Diving
vans will pick you up at your hotel in Stone it once must have looked by reading Emily est stretches of palm-fringed sand you’ll find For more on diving around Zanzibar, see
Town between 8am and 9am. Travel takes Said-Reute’s Memoirs of an Arabian Princess. anywhere – but everything is more spread p138. Locally based operators include the
1½ to two hours to any of the destinations, Continue north past the Maruhubi palace out and quieter than in the north. For a following:
and costs a negotiable TSh3000 per person. turn-off for about 2km, from where the ruins much quieter atmosphere, try Matemwe, Ras Nungwi Beach Hotel (%223 3767; www.ras
Don’t believe anything about a hotel’s status are signposted to the west. Pongwe or the northern end of Kiwengwa. nungwi.com) A PADI five-star centre based at Ras Nungwi
until you see it yourself, and insist on being If you’re seeking the large resort scene, the Beach Hotel.
taken to the destination you’d originally KIDICHI PERSIAN BATHS main area is the beach north of Kiwengwa Scuba Do (%0748-415179; www.scuba-do-zanzibar)
agreed on. Also, don’t pay for the return The Persian Baths, northeast of Zanzibar towards Pwani Mchangani. Except for Kendwa’s only PADI dive centre; just north of Kendwa Rocks.
trip in advance, as you may see neither the Town, are another construction of Sultan Nungwi (and nearby Kendwa Beach), where
driver nor your money again. Seyyid, built in 1850 for his Persian wife at the you can take a dip at any time, swimming at Sleeping & Eating – Budget
island’s highest point. Like the other nearby all of the beaches is tide dependent. All the beach places are within a few minutes
TAXI ruins, they’re rather unremarkable now, but walk of each other.
Taxis don’t have meters, so agree on a price with a bit of imagination, you can see the BUBUBU (FUJI BEACH) Cholo’s (camping US$5; bandas per person with shared
with the driver before getting into the car. Sultan’s lavishly garbed coterie disrobing to This modest stretch of sand, 10km north of bathroom US$10) Very chilled out, and the only
Town trips cost TSh1000 to TSh2000. test the waters. Take a 502 daladala to the town in Bububu, is the closest place to Zan- spot to pitch a tent; it also has some basic
Bububu junction, from where it’s about a zibar Town for swimming. It’s accessed via bandas, plus Nungwi’s best bar.
AROUND ZANZIBAR 3km walk east down an unpaved road. the dirt track heading west from just north Jambo Brothers (s/d with shared bathroom US$15/25)
Ruins of the Bububu police station. Low key, with clean, no-frills rooms on the
There are a number of historical sites around Mangapwani Caves Bububu Beach Guest House (%225 0110; www sand, and meals (order early). It’s just next
Zanzibar Town, many of which are included The Mangapwani caves are located about .bububu-zanzibar.com; s/d US$15/30) is a budget haunt to Cholo’s.
in spice tours (see p137). 20km north of Zanzibar Town along the that has airy no-frills rooms near the beach Union Beach Bungalows (s/d with shared bathroom
coast. There are actually two locations. The and meals on request. It’s at the end of the US$15/25) Next to Jambo Brothers, and another
MBWENI first is a large natural cave with a freshwater dirt track heading west from the Bububu agreeable shoestring option.
Mbweni, around 5km south of Zanzibar pool, supposedly used in connection with police station; you can arrange free transport Amaan Bungalows (% 224 0026; www.amaan
Town, was the site of a 19th-century UMCA the slave trade. North of here is the sobering from the airport or Stone Town. bungalows.com; standard s US$25-40, d US$30-60, s/d with
mission station that was used as a settlement slave cave, a dank, dark cell that was used as a sea views US$50/75; i) At the centre of activity,
for freed slaves. In addition to the small and holding pen to hide slaves after the legal trade NUNGWI and the biggest place, with various levels of
still functioning St John’s Anglican church, was abolished in the late 19th century. This big village, at Zanzibar’s northernmost accommodation, including nicer sea-view
dating to the 1880s, you can see the at- Follow the main road north past Bububu tip, is a dhow-building centre and one of the rooms, plus several restaurants (meals
mospheric ruins of the UMCA’s St Mary’s to Chuini, from where you head left down island’s major tourist destinations. It’s also around TSh5000).
School for Girls, set amid lush gardens in a dirt road for about 8km towards Man- where traditional and modern knock against Baraka Beach Bungalows (%0747-415569; baraka
the grounds of the Mbweni Ruins Hotel. gapwani village. Continue towards the sea each other with full force. On the beautiful [email protected]; s/d US$20/40) Small and
until you see a small sign for the slave cave. white-sand beach, fishermen sit in the shade friendly, just around the bend from Amaan
MARUHUBI PALACE Daladalas also run between Stone Town repairing their nets while the morning’s catch Bungalows.
The once-imposing Maruhubi palace, about and Mangapwani village. dries on neat wooden racks nearby. Yet take a
4km north of Zanzibar Town, was built by few steps back from the sand and enter into Sleeping & Eating – Midrange & Top End
Sultan Barghash in 1882 to house his large Beaches another world, with blaring music, a motley Most places in this category are on Nungwi’s
harem. In 1899 it was destroyed by fire, Zanzibar has superb beaches, with the best collection of guesthouses, and a definite party eastern side.
although the remaining ruins – primarily along the island’s east coast and to the north. atmosphere. For some travellers it’s the only Mnarani Beach Cottages (%224 0494; www.light
columns that once supported an upper ter- Although some have become overcrowded place to be on the island; others will likely housezanzibar.com; s/d US$60/84, d/q family cottage
race, an overhead aqueduct and small res- and built-up, all offer a wonderful respite want to give it a wide berth. Most hotels, the US$104/177) This small lodge is the first place
ervoirs covered with water lilies – hint at its from bumping along dusty roads on the better beaches, and the centre of all the action you come to on the placid eastern side of
previous scale. The ruins are just west of the mainland. The east coast beaches are pro- are just north and west of Nungwi village, Nungwi. It’s set on a small outcrop overlook-
Bububu road and are signposted. tected by coral reefs offshore and have fine, where it can get quite crowded. The eastern ing the sea, with a dozen unassuming cot-
white coral sand. Depending on the season, side of the peninsula is much quieter, with a tages, some with sea views, plus a few larger
MTONI PALACE they may also have lots of seaweed (most few hotels set on low cliffs overlooking the sea-facing family cottages with minifridge,
The ruins of Mtoni palace, built by Sultan abundant from December to February). water and small patches of beach. and a honeymoon chalet.
Seyyid Said as his residence in the early 19th Everyone has a favourite, and which Ras Nungwi Beach Hotel (%223 3767; www.ras
century, are just northeast of Maruhubi. In beach you choose is a matter of preference. Information nungwi.com; s/d full board US$195/270, with sea view from
its heyday the palace was a beautiful build- For meeting other travellers, enjoying some There’s Internet access at Amaan Bungalows US$235/350; hJun-Mar) The most upmarket
ing with a balconied exterior, an observation nightlife, and staying at relatively inexpen- and at Nungwi Inn Hotel, and a forex bureau hotel at Nungwi, with a low-key ambience,
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TA N Z A N I A
airy chalets nestled on a hillside overlook- trees leading down to the beach, with a few through One Ocean, which can also help pay the 117 bus driver about TSh1000 extra
ing the sea, and less expensive ‘garden view’ simple but spacious bungalows, or smaller with transport arrangements. to be taken there.
rooms in the main lodge. It’s about 1km rooms in the main family house. Matemwe Bungalows (%027-250 2799; www Bluebay Beach Resort (%224 0240/1; www.bluebay
south of Mnarani Beach Cottages. Kendwa Rocks (%0747-415475; www.kendwarocks .matemwe.com; s/d full board US$250/400; h mid- zanzibar.com; d half board US$240-510; ais) One
Flame Tree Cottages (%224 0100; www.flametree .com; bandas per person US$12, s/d from US$30/45) A Jun–Easter; s) Matemwe Bungalows, about of the nicer Kiwengwa resorts, with expan-
cottages.com; s/d/tr/70/90/105; h Jun-Mar; a ) A Kendwa classic, with beach bandas, simple 1km north of Matemwe Beach Village, is sive grounds and a quieter, more subdued
good midrange choice for quiet and relax- wooden bungalows on the sand, some cooler a relaxing, upmarket place with spacious atmosphere than those of its neighbours.
ation, with spotless, comfortable bungalows, stone and thatch versions nearby and the bungalows lined up along the sea – all with
all with nets, small porches and kitchenette biggest full-moon parties. their own veranda and hammock – a gen- PONGWE
use (US$10 per day extra). It’s on the eastern Sunset Bungalows (%223 2350; sunsetbungalows@ teel, pampered atmosphere and consistently This quiet arc of beach, about 5km south
edge of central Nungwi. hotmail.com; d cottages US$35-45, beachfront with air- rave reviews. There are also more luxurious of Kiwengwa, is dotted with palm trees and
Baobab Beach Bungalows (www.baobabbeach con US$55; a) Straightforward cottages on a suites, including one for honeymooners. backed by dense vegetation, and is about as
bungalows.com; s US$50-90, d US$60-130) At the north- small cliff overlooking the beach, plus some Matemwe Baharini Villas (%0747-417768; www close to the quintessential tropical paradise
western end of Nungwi, after the crush of pricier ones closer to the water and a beach- .matemwevillas.com; s/d villa US$30/50, s/d bungalow as you can get.
budget places, and a bit quieter, with stand- side bar-restaurant. US$40/70) On the beach between Matemwe The attractive, intimate and unassuming
ard bungalows plus some nice ‘deluxe’ rooms Amaan Kendwa Beach Resort (%0747 492552; Beach Village and Matemwe Bungalows, Pongwe Beach Hotel (%0748-336181; www.pongwe
that are closer to the beach, and worth the [email protected]; s/d US$40/60, with sea view with a choice of rooms; all have been recently .com; s/d US$70/110) has just 10 bungalows (in-
splurge. US$50/75) Huge and sprawling, with three renovated. There’s a restaurant. cluding one honeymoon bungalow with a
Smiles Beach Hotel (%224 0472; smilesbeachhotel@ rows of rooms on a hillside sloping down There are also several shoestring places, large Zanzibari bed), nestled among the
zanzinet.com; s/d US$65/85; a) Smiles – on the to the beach. Most face the garden (or the including Mohammed’s Place (%0747-431881; palms on the best section of beach. All are
eastern edge of Nungwi centre – has two- back of the row in front), but a few have sea r per person with shared bathroom US$10), with three sea-facing, spacious and breezy, the cuisine
storey cottages overlooking a manicured lawn views. There’s a waterside restaurant. very simple rooms in a local house set away is good, and when you tire of the turquoise
and the beach, with more space and quiet from the beach in Matemwe village. panoramas at your doorstep, you can
than at the other central Nungwi hotels. Getting There & Away amuse yourself with such pursuits as game
You can walk to Kendwa from Nungwi at Getting There & Away fishing and deep-sea fishing or excursions
Getting There & Away low tide in about 25 to 30 minutes, but take Daladalas travel here daily from Stone Town to Stone Town.
Bus 116 runs daily between Nungwi and care as there have been some muggings. (two hours), passing the Matemwe Beach Santa Maria Coral Park (%0747-432655; www
Zanzibar Town (TSh700), but most travellers Alternatively, inexpensive boats go from Village hotel on the way, and stopping within .santamaria-zanzibar.com; s US$25-35, d US$35-50) is a
go via private minivan (p143). near Amaan Bungalows a few times daily about 2km of Matemwe Bungalows. laid-back budget haunt on a lovely stretch
depending on demand. From Stone Town, of sand just south of Pongwe Beach Hotel
KENDWA have the 116 daladala drop you at the sign KIWENGWA and Pongwe village. There are a handful of
To the southwest of Nungwi is Kendwa, a for Kendwa Rocks (a few kilometres south Kiwengwa village is spread out along a fine, simple makuti bandas, a restaurant and a
long, wide stretch of sand known among of Nungwi), from where it’s about a 2km wide beach, much of which is occupied by beachside bar with evening bonfires.
other things for its laid-back atmosphere and walk to the beach. large, Italian-run resort hotels, although
its full-moon parties. Apart from the full- there are some quieter stretches to the north UROA
moon parties, when it’s loud until the wee MATEMWE and south. This centreless village lies on an attractive
hours, the beach is quieter than at Nungwi, The long, idyllic beach at Matemwe has some The cosy and intimate Shooting Star Lodge and seldom-visited stretch of beach that’s
and more spread out, without Nungwi’s of the finest sand on Zanzibar. It’s also the (%0747-414166; www.zanzibar.org/star; d garden lodge/ of similar appeal to that at nearby Chwaka
crush of activity and accommodation. Off- best base for diving and snorkelling around sea view from US$110/205; s) is an excellent (p148), just to the south.
shore are some reefs for snorkelling, and at Mnemba, which lies just offshore. choice, with tastefully decorated stone-and- Tamarind Beach Hotel (%223 7154, 0747-411191;
high tide you still have some beach – unlike thatch cottages on a small cliff overlooking www.tamarind.nu; s/d US$40/60) is one of the oldest
at Nungwi, where it essentially disappears. Sleeping & Eating the sea, plus some equally nice ‘lodge rooms’ hotels on the east coast, and an ideal choice
Matemwe Beach Village (%223 8374, 0747-413656; set around a garden, as well as superb cuisine for families. Accommodation is in good-
Sleeping & Eating www.matemwebeach.com; s/d from US$65/100, ste half and a good stretch of beach. The overall am- value bungalows within just a few metres
White Sands (%0747-480987; www.zanzibar-white board US$200-350; hJun–mid Apr; a) This rec- bience is tranquil, and the lodge is an ideal of a placid pine-fringed beach, all with sea
-sands-hotel.com; d US$40-70) One of Kendwa’s ommended beachfront place has a seaside place to relax. It’s at the far northern end of views, a small porch and a pleasing, homy
best, with cheery, good-value en suite cot- setting, an agreeably low-key ambience and Kiwengwa. ambience. There’s a restaurant, and staff
tages on a small cliff above the beach – all cosy bungalows with small verandas. There’s Reef View (%0747-413294, 414030; banda per per- can organise excursions to Michamvi or
have bathroom and fan, and all but the also a plush honeymoon suite with its own son with shared bathroom US$15, d US$50) is the only Stone Town.
cheapest have hot water – and a great beach- plunge pool, plus several very nice two- budget option, with makuti (palm leaf– The 214 daladala runs between Zanzibar
side bar and restaurant. storey ‘shamba suites’. One Ocean/The thatched) bandas sharing facilities, plus an Town and Uroa several times daily. Some-
La Rosa dei Venti (%0747-411314; www.rosazanzibar Zanzibar Dive Centre (see p137) has a en suite double, a restaurant and a book ex- times you can get this at Darajani market,
.com; 2-3 person bungalow US$75, s/d US$30/45, club s/d branch here, which means if you dive with change. It’s on the beach about 20 minutes but usually you need to take bus 501 (Amani
US$35/55) Friendly and family-run, this small it in Stone Town, you can get in some east- walk south of Kiwengwa centre (along the Stadium) to Mwembe Radu junction (just
guesthouse is set just behind a grove of palm coast diving as well. In Stone Town, book beach at low tide). Alternatively, you can ask the daladala driver), where you can pick
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up the 214. Alternatively, bus 206 (Chwaka) 2-/4-person ‘jungle bungalow’ US$70/100) A fairly raucous rooms, which are dark. It’s on the beach about 3km north Kimte Beach Inn (%224 0212; www.kimte.com;
sometimes continues northwards as far as place known for its bar, with straightforward rooms around of Bwejuu village. dm US$10, d with shared bathroom US$25, with private
Uroa. The last departure from Uroa back to a courtyard set in from the beach, makuti-roofed ‘jungle Evergreen Bwejuu (%224 0273; www.evergree bathroom US$30) At the southern end of Jam-
Stone Town is about 4pm. bungalows’ and a restaurant with a pizza oven. -bungalows.com; r with shared bathroom from US$30, biani, this friendly and laid-back Rasta-run
with private bathroom from US$40) Pricey but nice place has rooms on the land side of the road,
CHWAKA Getting There & Away two-storey bungalows. Some have a bathroom, and the about half a minute’s walk from the beach, a
Chwaka, a small fishing village on Chwaka Bus 324 runs several times daily between Paje upper-level rooms have their own balcony. good vibe, and a beachside bar with music
Bay, due east of Zanzibar Town, doesn’t re- and Stone Town en route to/from Bwejuu, Twisted Palm (%0747-438121; s/d from US$15/25) and evening bonfires.
ceive too many visitors these days, and as a with the last departure from Paje leaving at OK bungalows (the ones closest to the water are better), a Gomani Bungalows (%224 0154; gomanibunga
consequence has a sleepy charm. The mod- about 3pm. beachside bar and a raised restaurant overlooking the water. [email protected]; s/d US$15/30) This spiffy beach-
est beach is below average compared with side place is at the southern end of Jambi-
others on Zanzibar’s east coast. BWEJUU Getting There & Away ani just after Kimte Beach Inn. Rooms are
Chwaka Bay Resort (%224 0289; s/d with fan The large village of Bwejuu lies about 3km Bus 324 goes daily between Stone Town and around a garden on a tiny cliff overlooking
US$45/60, with air-con US$55/72; as) has simple north of Paje on a long, palm-shaded beach. Bwejuu village, and private minivans come the sea, and there’s a restaurant.
bungalows set on a small hillside in from It’s very spread out, quieter than Paje, and here as well. Mt Zion Long Beach (%0747-439001, 439034; www
the beach, and nicer two-storey cottages much less crowded than Nungwi, with a .mountzion-zanzibar.com; s/d/tr US$25/50/65) Another
with sea views and balconies. mellow atmosphere and nothing much more MICHAMVI PENINSULA Rasta-run place with nicely decorated, spot-
Bus 206 runs several times daily to/from to do other than wander along the sand and Beginning about 4km north of Bwejuu, less stone-and-thatch bungalows set around
Zanzibar Town. listen to the breezes rustling the palm trees. budget accommodation disappears, with a large, lush gardens just up from the beach.
few upmarket retreats the only options. Once They also have a couple of less expensive
PAJE Sleeping & Eating past Bwejuu, there’s no public transport. no-frills makuti bandas directly on the
Paje is a wide, white beach at the end of the Mustapha’s Nest (%224 0069; www.fatflatfish.co.uk Local boats cross from Michamvi village sand, plus a bar built around polished drift-
Tarmac where the coastal road north to Bwe- /mustaphas/; r per person with shared bathroom US$10-15, (on the northwestern side of the peninsula wood, and tasty food. It’s about 1.5km north
juu and south to Jambiani joins with the road with private bathroom US$20-25) This chilled-out, opposite Karafuu Hotel) to Chwaka, usually of Jambiani village.
from Zanzibar Town. There’s a cluster of welcoming place has a laid-back Rasta at- departing Michamvi in the early morning Hakuna Majiwe (% 0747-454505; www.hakuna
places here, and somewhat of a party atmos- mosphere and a variety of simple, creatively (TSh1000), or you can arrange to hire one majiwe.net; s/d US$100/140; ais) A pleasing
phere, though it’s quieter than in Nungwi. decorated rooms, some with their own at any time of day (about TSh15,000 return). fusion of Zanzibar and Italy with nicely
Many hotels in Paje organise dolphin trips bathroom and all with their own theme. In Michamvi, there are a few simple bandas decorated attached cottages, all with shady
to Kizimkazi for about TSh15,000 per person Meals are taken family style, and Mustapha where you can arrange grilled fish or other porches and Zanzibari beds, and most
in a group. and family are helpful in sorting out things local fare. large enough to accommodate extra beds
Kinazi Upepo (%0748-655038; www.kinaziupepo like bike hire, drumming lessons and other Breezes Beach Club (%0747-440883; www.breezes for children. It’s at the far northern end of
.com; banda with shared bathroom US$20-25, bungalow diversions. It’s south of Bwejuu village, and -zanzibar.com; s/d half-board from US$155/250; ai Jambiani, near Mt Zion Long Beach.
US$35-50) Good vibes and good value are the just across the road from the beach. s) is a plush resort, with a full range of Shehe Bungalows (%224 0149; r per person US$15)
main attractions at this place nestled amid Robinson’s Place (%0747-413479; www.robinsons amenities and activities, and a minimum of Simple rooms at the southern end of Jambi-
the palms and coastal pines on a nice section place.net; s/d from US$25/40) A Robinson Crusoe– the hectic, homogenised atmosphere found ani. Most have bathroom and some have a
of beach. You can sleep in simple makuti style getaway, it has a small collection of ap- at some of the other east-coast places. minifridge. There’s a seaside restaurant.
bandas on low stilts, or in large bungalows pealingly designed rooms nestled amid the
with Zanzibari beds. There’s a well-stocked palms directly on the beach. The two-storey JAMBIANI Getting There & Away
bar, and Saturday evenings currently feature Robinson House has a wonderful upstairs Jambiani Beach stretches several kilometres Jambiani Beach is reached by bus 309 from
an all-night East Coast Beach Party. tree house double, open to the sea and the down the coast. There’s a good selection of Stone Town (1½ hours).
Other recommendations: palms. Downstairs is a tidy single, and there budget accommodation, and you could do
Arabian Nights Guesthouse (%224 0190/1; www are a few more rooms in a separate house, worse than spend a few days here gazing out KIZIMKAZI
.pajedivecentre.com/arabiannights; s/d US$70/80, with sea some with private bathroom. Eddy, the Zan- at turquoise seas. This small village actually consists of two
view US$80/90) Comfortable, tastefully furnished cottages zibari owner, cooks up great breakfasts and adjoining settlements: Kizimkazi Dimbani
on the beach, plus a restaurant and a dive centre. dinners (for guests only) served in a seaside Sleeping & Eating to the north and Kizimkazi Mkunguni to
Paradise Beach Bungalows (%223 1387; www banda. It’s at the northern end of Bwejuu; Oasis Beach Inn (%224 0259; d US$25, s/d with shared the south. It’s known mainly for the dol-
.geocities.jp/paradisebeachbungalows/; s/d from US$25/ just keep heading up the sandy track until bathroom US$8/16) One of the cheapest places, phins that favour the nearby waters. Trips
35) A low-key place hidden among the palms on the you see the sign. the beachside Oasis has simple but decent can be organised through tour operators in
beach at the northern edge of Paje, with sushi and other Other recommendations: rooms with shared bathroom. Stone Town from about US$20 per person,
Japanese cuisine available with advance order. Sunrise Hotel & Restaurant (%224 0170; www Blue Oyster Hotel (%224 0163; www.zanzibar.de; depending on group size. Some of the ho-
Kitete Guest House (%224 0226; www.kitetebeach .sunrise-zanzibar.com; s/d r US$65/75, s/d bungalow with s/d with shared bathroom US$20/30, with private bathroom tels at Paje and Jambiani also organise tours
.com; s/d from US$25/40) A small guesthouse right on sea view US$80/90; s) The Belgian-run Sunrise has US$45/50) This German-run place has pleasant, from TSh15,000 per person, as does Kizidi
the beach. rooms and bungalows set around a small garden area, and spotless rooms, a breezy terrace restaurant, Bungalows (p150) for TSh40,000 per boat
Paje by Night (%0747-460710; www.pajebynight.net; a highly regarded restaurant. The beach-facing bungalows and a convenient setting at the northern end with up to eight people, plus TSh2500 per
standard s/d US$35/40, large d with hot water US$60, are worth the extra money, and are much nicer than the of the beach. person for hire of poor-quality snorkelling
TA N Z A N I A 150 Z A N Z I B A R A R C H I P E L A G O • • A r o u n d Z a n z i b a r www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z A N Z I B A R A R C H I P E L A G O • • Pe m b a 151
TA N Z A N I A
equipment. While the dolphins are beauti- is a reef offering some novice snorkelling; MNEMBA
ful, the tours are often quite unpleasant, WATCHING THE DOLPHINS you’ll need your own gear. Changuu is also Tiny Mnemba, just northeast of Matemwe, is
due to the hunt-and-chase tactics used by Unfortunately for Kizimkazi’s dolphins, known for its large family of imported giant the ultimate tropical paradise for those who
many of the tour boats, and they can’t be things have gotten out of hand these days, tortoises. have the money to enjoy it. While the island
recommended. If you do go out, the best and it’s not uncommon to see a group of Zanzibar Town tour operators can ar- itself is privately owned, the surrounding
time is early morning when the water is beleaguered dolphins being chased by range an excursion. Alternatively, you can coral reef can be visited by anyone. It’s one
calmer and the sun is cooler. Late after- several boats of tourists. If you want to hire a fishing boat from the beach near of Zanzibar’s best diving and snorkelling
noon is also good, although winds may be watch the dolphins, heed the advice posted Tembo House Hotel for about TSh15,000 sites, with a huge array of fish, including
stronger (and if it’s too windy, it’s difficult on the wall of the WWF office in Zanzibar for a return day trip. tuna, barracuda, moray eels, reef sharks and
to get in and out of the boats to snorkel). Town: as with other animals, viewing the lots of colourful smaller species.
Kizidi Restaurant & Bungalows (%223 0081; dolphins in their natural environs requires BAWI The exclusive Mnemba Island Lodge (www
s/d/tr US$30/40/50) is a large place on the north- time and patience, and sightings can’t be Tiny Bawi, about 7km west of Zanzibar .ccafrica.com; per person all-inclusive from US$585; hJun-
ern end of the beach in Kizimkazi Dimbani. guaranteed. Shouting and waving won’t Town and several kilometres southwest Mar) is a playground for the rich and famous,
Accommodation is in no-frills cottages encourage them to approach your boat. of Changuu, offers a beautiful beach and and is often rented out in its entirety.
overlooking the water, with net, hot water Rather than forcing the boat operator to snorkelling. There’s nothing else, however,
and twin or double beds. There’s a large chase the dolphins or approach at close so you’ll need to bring food, drinks and CHUMBE
restaurant. range, be satisfied with passive observa- snorkelling equipment with you. Fishing This uninhabited island, 12km south of
tion, especially when they are resting. If you boats from the beach near Tembo House Zanzibar Town, has an exceptional shallow-
Getting There & Away decide to swim with them, get into the Hotel charge from TSh15,000; the trip takes water coral reef along its western shore that
To get here from Stone Town, take bus 326 water quietly and without splashing. Re- about 40 minutes. Various tour operators is in close to pristine condition and abound-
(Kizimkazi) direct, or take 310 (Makun- member that the dolphins are wild and run day trips to Bawi with a stop en route ing with fish life. Since 1994, when the reef
duchi) as far as Kufile junction, where you’ll their whereabouts cannot be predicted. It at Changuu from about TSh15,000, usually was gazetted as Zanzibar’s first marine sanc-
need to get out and wait for another vehicle is they who choose to interact with people, including lunch. tuary, the island has gained widespread ac-
heading towards Kizimkazi, or walk (about not the other way around... claim, including from the United Nations, as
5km). As you approach Kizimkazi, you’ll CHAPWANI the site of an impressive ecotourism initia-
come to another fork; Dimbani is to the right This tiny, privately owned island (also known tive centred around an ecolodge and local
and Mkunguni to the left. forests, some idyllic sandbanks and deserted as Grave Island, thanks to its small cemetery environmental education programs. It’s now
islets, and a sea-turtle breeding area. It’s and tombs of colonial-era British seamen) run as Chumbe Island Coral Park, a private,
Jozani Forest protected as part of the Menai Bay Conserva- is about 4km north of Zanzibar Town. It’s nonprofit nature reserve.
Cool and lush Jozani Forest (adult/child US$8/4; tion Area (admission US$3), and offers a relaxing surrounded by crystal waters, and makes an In addition to nearly 200 species of coral,
h7.30am-5.30pm) is the largest area of mature getaway, plus the chance to sail around the agreeable getaway from Stone Town. the island’s surrounding waters host about
forest left on Zanzibar, and is known in islets and sandbanks offshore, and some- Chapwani Island Lodge (www.chapwaniisland.com; 370 species of fish, groups of dolphins, and
particular for its populations of the rare red times to see dolphins. Unguja Ukuu was the s/d full board US$245/300; hJun-Mar) has cosy bun- hawksbill turtles.
colobus monkey. site of Zanzibar’s earliest settlement, dating galows along the sand, and provides trans- Chumbe Island can be visited as a day
The best times to see the red colobus are to at least the 8th century. fers from Stone Town. trip, although staying overnight in one of
in the early morning and late evening. It’s Menai Bay Beach Bungalows (%0747-413915; the seven wonderfully rustic eco-bungalows
important not to get too close – park staff www.menaibaybungalows.com; s/d US$30/50) has pleas- TUMBATU (%223 1040; www.chumbeisland.com; s/d all-inclusive
recommend no closer than 3m – both for ant cottages scattered around leafy grounds The large island of Tumbatu is situated US$230/400) is highly recommended. Advance
your safety and the safety of the animals. If just in from the beach, a nice stretch of sand, off Zanzibar’s northwestern coast and is bookings are essential. Day visits (also by
the monkeys were to catch a human illness, and a restaurant. populated by the Tumbatu people. There’s advance arrangement only) cost US$70 per
it could spread, endangering the already Fumba Beach Lodge (%0747-860504; info@fumba no accommodation, but the island can be person, including transfers and food.
threatened population. beachlodge.co.tz; s/d US$177/284) has more nice easily visited as a day trip from Kendwa or
Jozani is about 35km southeast of Zanzi- cottages well-spaced near the water, plus Nungwi, where the hotels can help you or- PEMBA
bar Town off the road to Paje. It can be a placid beach and the chance for diving, ganise a boat (from US$35 to US$50 per %024
reached via bus 9 or 10, via chartered taxi snorkelling or sailing on a dhow. boat). Alternatively, local boats sail through- About 50km north of Zanzibar across the
or with an organised tour from Zanzibar out the day between Tumbatu and Mkokotoni deep, dark waters of the Pemba channel
Town. Many Kizimkazi dolphin tours stop Offshore Islands village, which lies just across the channel on lies hilly, verdant Pemba – the archipela-
at Jozani, although the Jozani entry fee isn’t CHANGUU Zanzibar, and which is known for its bus- go’s ‘other’ island, seldom visited and long
normally included in the price. Also known as Prison Island, Changuu (admis- tling fish market. Before visiting, it’s best overshadowed by Zanzibar, its larger, more
sion US$5, payable in US$ only) lies about 5km and an to get permission first from the police sta- visible and more politically powerful neigh-
Menai Bay & Unguja Ukuu easy boat ride northwest of Zanzibar Town. tion in Mkokotoni, or from the shehe (vil- bour to the south. Yet those tourists who
Tranquil Menai Bay, fringed by the sleepy It was originally used to detain ‘recalcitrant’ lage chief) in Nungwi, who will probably venture across the channel for a visit are
villages of Fumba to the west and Unguja slaves and later as a quarantine station. request a modest fee. There’s at least one bus seldom disappointed.
Ukuu to the east, is home to an impres- Today the island is pushed as a day excur- daily between Mkokotoni and Stone Town. Unlike flat, sandy Zanzibar, Pemba’s ter-
sive assortment of corals, fish and mangrove sion, although it’s a bit overrated. Nearby Camping isn’t permitted. rain is hilly, fertile and heavily vegetated.
152 Z A N Z I B A R A R C H I P E L A G O • • Pe m b a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z A N Z I B A R A R C H I P E L A G O • • Pe m b a 153
Pemba
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
Dense mangrove swamps line its coast, open- PEMBA 0
0
20 km
12 miles
Orientation Manta Reef Lodge (%0747-424637, 423930; www
ing only occasionally onto stunning white- Chake Chake, in the centre of the island on .mantareeflodge.com) Diving at a range of sites around
sand coves, while inland, a patchwork of neat the western coast, is Pemba’s main town. the island, and live-aboard arrangements on the schooner
farm plots covers the hillsides. In the days of The only other towns of any size are Wete to SY Jambo; based at Manta Reef Lodge (p157). There’s a
the Arab traders it was even referred to as al the north, and Mkoani in the south, where booking office in Chake Chake (Map p155).
Khuthera or ‘the Green Island’. Throughout most of the ferries arrive. Pemba Afloat (www.pembaisland.com) An excellent
much of the period when the sultans of Zan- Panga ya
Ras Kigomasha outfit based aboard the yachts Karibu and Sitra, which are
Watoro Beach
zibar held sway over the East African coast, Kigomasha
Vumawimbi
Beach
Ras Kiuyu
MAPS moored in Njao Gap, northwest of Wete.
Hamisi &
it was Pemba, with its extensive clove planta- Peninsula
Verani
Usubi A map (1:100,000) put out by the Commis- Wimbi Nyota (www.zanzibarsail.com) The Wimbi Nyota
Ngezi
tions and agricultural base, that provided the Tondooni Forest
Tumbe
Mbuyuni
Beach
sion for Lands & Environment is available offers sailing and live-aboard arrangements around Pemba
economic foundation for the archipelago’s Konde
Chwaka Kiuyu from the Bureau of Lands & Environment and northern Zanzibar, together with its sister ship, the
dominance. just outside Chake Chake in Machomane. catamaran Julia.
ne l
Njao Chwaka
Ruins
Pemba has also been long renowned for its Njao Head north from the town centre for 1km
Cha n
Gap Kinyasini Maputo
voodoo and traditional healers, and people Msitu Mkuu
Forest
and take the first right; the bureau is 100m Getting There & Around
still make their way here from elsewhere Fundo down in a two-storey white building. Mkoani is Pemba’s main ferry port, and
ba
Wete
in East Africa seeking cures or to learn the Mtambwe there are also weekly ferry connections
Pe m
Mkuu Kojani
skills of the trade. Nyala Mzambarauni
Daya
Information from the mainland to Wete. All flights ar-
Thanks to the mangroves lining much of Uvinje Piki
Likoni There’s no accommodation outside main rive at the island’s only airport near Chake
the coast, Pemba is not a beach destination. towns except for a few tourist resorts. Away Chake. Once on Pemba, getting around is
However, there are a few good stretches of Kokota Funzi from hotels and guesthouses, the main eat- easy but slow. A plodding local bus network
Ziwani Kangagni
sand and some idyllic offshore islets, and the ing venues are Pemba’s lively night mar- connects the three main towns and several
Ras Mkumbuu
surrounding waters offer rewarding diving. Ole kets – found in all the major towns, but smaller ones. To reach destinations off these
Gombani
Tourism on Pemba is still in its infancy, Wesha
Vitongoji best in Chake Chake – which sell mishikaki routes, take one of the buses to the nearest
Chake Chake
and infrastructure is for the most part Bay Chake Chake
(skewered meat), grilled pweza (octopus) intersection, from where you’ll either have to
Misali
fairly basic, although this is slowly chang- Karume
Airport and other delicacies. Other than hotel bars walk, rely on sporadic pick-ups, or negotiate
ing. Much of the island is relatively ‘undis- Wambaa
and local brew there’s little alcohol available an additional fee with the bus driver. There
Limani Pujini
covered’ and you’ll still have things more To Zanzibar Pujini on the island. are no regular taxis as there are on Zanzi-
Ruins
or less to yourself, which is a big part of (50km) Ngwachani Most businesses operate from 8am to bar or the mainland, but there are plenty of
Pemba’s charm. The main requirement for Mkoani 4pm, and almost everywhere shuts down for pick-up trucks that you can charter – best
Makongwe
travelling around independently is time, as Changaweni
Mtambile prayers from about 4pm or 4.30pm, and at arranged in Chake Chake. The main roads
Matumbi Kendwa
there’s little transport off main routes. Makubwa midday on Friday. between Mkoani and Wete are Tarmac in
Kiwani Mtangani
Kengeja There is a Chinese-run government hos- various stages of repair; no secondary routes
History Matumbini pital in Mkoani, but it’s better to get yourself are paved.
Pemba is geologically much older than Zan- Panza Jombe
INDIAN to the mainland or to Nairobi. Pemba is small, and cycling is an excellent
Kiweni
zibar and is believed to have been settled OCEAN
Chake Chake is the only place to change way to get around the island, although you’ll
at an earlier date, although little is known money, and even here facilities are limited, need to bring your own (mountain) bike
about its original inhabitants. It’s likely that so come prepared and bring enough cash and spares, unless you’re content with one
they migrated from the mainland, perhaps US dollars. You’ll need to pay cash for all of the single-speed bicycles available locally.
as early as several thousand years ago. The foreigners in an effort to contain strong diving and accommodation listed here ex- Distances are relatively short and roads are
Shirazi presence on Pemba is believed to antigovernment sentiment. The island re- cept as noted. only lightly travelled.
date from at least the 9th or 10th century. mained closed until the 1980s, although
The Portuguese attacked Pemba in the the situation continued to be strained. Ten- Activities Mkoani
early 16th century and sought to subjugate its sions peaked during the 1995 elections, DIVING Although it is Pemba’s major port, Mko-
inhabitants by ravaging towns and demand- and relations deteriorated thereafter, with Other than exploring the island, diving is ani has managed to fight off all attempts
ing tributes. As a result, many Pembans fled Pembans feeling increasingly marginalised Pemba’s main activity. Given the distances at development and remains a very small
to Mombasa. By the late 17th century the Bu- and frustrated. This was hardly surprising, from main towns to most of the dive sites, and boring town. However, its good budget
saidi family of Omani Arabs had taken over considering that illiteracy rates are as high live-aboard arrangements are an appealing guesthouse goes a long way to redeeming
the island and driven away the remaining as 95% in some areas and roads and other option, and most of the following operators it, and it makes a reasonable base for ex-
Portuguese. Before long, however, the Maz- infrastructure badly neglected. In January can arrange these, as well as sailing charters. ploring the southern and central parts of
rui, a rival group of Omanis based in Mom- 2001, in the wake of the October 2000 elec- As currents are often strong, and conditions the island.
basa, gained the upper hand and governed tions, tensions again peaked, resulting in at challenging, most diving around Pemba is
until 1822. In 1890 Pemba, together with least several dozen deaths and causing many best suited for experienced divers. INFORMATION
Zanzibar, became a British protectorate. people to flee the island (see p108). Since Fundu Lagoon (%223 2926; www.fundulagoon.com) The government hospital is on the main
Following the Zanzibar revolution in then, most have returned, and daily life is ‘Fully catered’ diving in five-star conditions; based at Fundu road, and is best avoided except in dire
1964, President Karume closed Pemba to back to normal. Lagoon (p154), and mainly for hotel guests. emergencies.
154 Z A N Z I B A R A R C H I P E L A G O • • Pe m b a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Z A N Z I B A R A R C H I P E L A G O • • Pe m b a 155
Chake Chake
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
The immigration officer usually meets all seating, although ‘comfortable’ is an over- CHAKE CHAKE 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
boat arrivals. Otherwise, if you’re coming statement. Both boats have their main book-
A B C To Wete D
from anywhere other than Zanzibar, you’ll ing offices at the port in Mkoani. You can (25km)
need to go to the immigration office and also arrange tickets through travel agencies INFORMATION People's Bank of Zanzibar.............4 B2
Adult Computer Centre................1 B2 Zanzibar Tourist Corporation........5 B2
get stamped in. It’s 500m up the main road in Chake Chake, and with Sharouk Guest Manta Reef Lodge Booking
from the port in a small brown building House in Wete. 1 Office.......................................2 B3 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Partnership Travel & Tours...........3 B3 Market.........................................6 B3
with a flag. Pemba Island Reasonable Ruins of Old Fort.........................7 A3
Bus Tours & Safaris.....................(see 3)
To Bureau of Lands &
SLEEPING & EATING Bus No 303 runs throughout the day to/ Environment (500m);
Pemba Essential Oil
Jondeni Guest House (%245 6042; jondeniguest@hot from Chake Chake (TSh700, two hours). Distillery (700m);
Vitongoji (6km)
mail.com; dm US$10, s/d with shared bathroom US$15/20, s/d The bus station is about 200m east of the
with private bathroom US$25/30) The only choice at port, up the hill and just off the main road. To Wesha (7km);
Ras Mkumbuu Machomane
the moment is this good backpackers’ guest- For Wete, you’ll need to change vehicles in (15km)
house, with clean, no-frills rooms and good Chake Chake. 9
meals (TSh6000). Staff have lots of informa- 2
tion on Pemba, and can help you arrange Kiweni Fairgrounds
4 8
excursions elsewhere on the island. To get Kiweni (Shamiani on some maps) is an is-
here, head left when exiting the port, and land that lies just off Pemba’s southeastern 10 SLEEPING
12 1 Le Tavern.....................................8 B2
walk about 800m up to the top of the hill. coast. It’s home to five of Pemba’s six en- 5
Old Mission Lodge.......................9 B2
14
Floating Beach Resort (www.floatingbeach.com; s/d demic bird species, and a nesting ground for Chake Chake 3
2
Pemba Island Hotel....................10 B2
full board US$88/176) Fifteen rooms on a com- some sea-turtle colonies. There’s nowhere to Channel 6 EATING
fortable boat moored off the coast of Pemba, stay, but a five-star resort is planned. Jetty 13
Afay Restaurant.........................11 B3
Maziwa Halisi.............................12 A2
north of Mkoani. Rates include excursions Take any bus along the Mkoani–Chake
to nearby beaches. Chake road to Mtambile junction. From 3 TRANSPORT
7 Coastal Aviation.........................(see 2)
11
Apart from Jondeni Guest House, which Mtambile, you can find pick-ups to Kengeja, MV Sepideh Booking Office.......(see 3)
Transport Stand.........................13 A3
has Mkoani’s best cuisine, it can be difficult from where you’ll have to walk a few kilo- Main Post Transport to Wesha...................(see 4)
Office
to find meals, although there is decent street metres to the water and then take a boat To Karume Airport (6km); ZanAir........................................14 B3
food in the evenings by the port. over to Kiweni (about TSh2000). Pujini Ruins (10km); Mkoani (30km)
GETTING THERE & AWAY Wambaa People’s Bank of Zanzibar Changes cash and travellers sion house in the centre of Chake Chake,
Boat The main reason to come to Wambaa is to cheques to a daily limit of US$200. At the main junction. with spacious, rustic and somewhat over-
The fitful MS Sepideh (%0741-414343, 0747-420243) luxuriate at Fundu Lagoon (%223 2926; www Zanzibar Tourist Corporation Come here for tourist priced rooms complete with creaky wooden
sails in theory on Monday, Thursday and .fundulagoon.com; s/d full board from US$475/670; information. It’s at the main junction, on the 2nd floor of floors, tiny shared bathrooms and high ceil-
Saturday in both directions between Dar es hmid-Jun–mid-Apr), Pemba’s only five-star re- the building with the flag. ings. It’s primarily a dive base, but plenty of
Salaam and Mkoani via Zanzibar, depart- sort, with all the usual amenities plus a dive nondivers stay here as well. It’s on the main
ing Dar es Salaam at 7.30am and Zanzibar team. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES road in the town centre, about 200m north
by 10am. In the other direction, the boat An easy bike ride away, about 6km east of of the bank. No travellers cheques accepted;
departs Mkoani at 12.30pm, reaching Zan- Chake Chake town past the sleepy Pemba Essential Oil Dis- credit cards plus 10%. Lunch is available for
zibar at 3pm, and then to Dar es Salaam at Lively Chake Chake, set on a ridge over- tillery (admission TSh1500; h7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri), US$6 and dinner for US$12.
4pm. The Sepideh is good when it runs, but looking Chake Chake Bay, is Pemba’s main are some tiny, baobab-dotted beaches near Le Tavern (%245 2660; s/d with air-con US$25/30;
service is sporadic. The fare is US$45/55 in town. Although it has been occupied for Vitongoji. a) A reliable but slightly tatty establish-
economy class between Pemba and Zanzi- centuries, there is little architectural evi- ment on the main road north of Old Mission
bar/Dar es Salaam, including port tax. dence of its past other than the ruins of SLEEPING & EATING Lodge, with clean, no-frills rooms with nets.
The much less comfortable and margin- an 18th-century fort near the hospital, and Pemba Island Hotel (% 245 2215, 0747-435266; Included in the price is an early morning
ally more reliable Serengeti also sails three some ruins at nearby Ras Mkumbuu. [email protected]; s/d/tw US$20/35/50; wake-up call from the mosque next door.
times weekly between Zanzibar and Mko- a) New and spotless, this hotel is good Meals (TSh4000) can be arranged.
ani, departing Mkoani at 10am Tuesday, INFORMATION budget value, with small rooms with nets, Afay Restaurant (meals TSh2000; hlunch & dinner)
Thursday and Saturday, reaching Zanzibar Adult Computer Centre (connection fee TSh1000, TV, minifridge and hot water, a rooftop ter- This homy local haunt offers good rice and
between 4pm and 5pm (US$25, six to seven plus per minute TSh300; h8am-8pm) On the main race restaurant and a 10% price discount for fish and other standard fare.
hours). Departures from Zanzibar are at Mkoani–Wete road, opposite the telecom building; you can longer stays. It’s on the Wesha road, about There’s also a lively night market around
10pm, reaching Pemba the next morning also place/receive international calls here. 100m downhill from the bank. The owners the main junction, where you can get grilled
at about 6am. If you take the night run, try Partnership Travel & Tours (%245 2278) Ferry also run a cheaper annex nearby. pweza (octopus), maandazi (doughnuts) and
to get to the port early to get one of their tickets and island excursions; at the main junction. Old Mission Lodge (%245 2786; www.swahilidivers other local delicacies at rock-bottom prices.
‘1st class’ couches; there’s no extra charge, Pemba Island Reasonable Tours & Safaris .com; dm/d US$23/68, r with shared bathroom US$53-82; Maziwa Halisi, downhill from the bank
but it’s more comfortable than the other (%0747-435266) Next door, and more of the same. i) This lodge is in a restored Quaker mis- and after Pemba Island Hotel, sells yogurt.
TA N Z A N I A 156 Z A N Z I B A R A R C H I P E L A G O • • Pe m b a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A 157
TA N Z A N I A
GETTING THERE & AWAY In 1998 the island and surrounding coral welcoming guesthouse, just off the main forests found on Zanzibar, as well as for
Air reef were gazetted as the Misali Island Marine road at the western end of town, has simple, being the home of the Pemba flying fox – a
Both ZanAir (%245 2990), on the main road Conservation Area (adults/students US$5/3), with clean rooms with net and fan, and the best bat unique to the island. The forest is now a
near the post office, and Coastal Aviation (%245 underwater and terrestrial nature trails. meals in town (meals TSh4000). protected reserve (admission TSh4000; h8am-4pm)
2162, 0747-418343), opposite ZanAir, fly daily Camping is not permitted. Bomani Guest House (%245 4384; s/d with shared with a short nature trail that winds its way
between Chake Chake and Zanzibar Town To get to the island, head first to Wesha, bathroom US$15/20, with private bathroom s/d US$25) In beneath the shady forest canopy.
(US$70), with connections on to Dar es northwest of Chake Chake, via bus 305, the unlikely event that Sharouk’s is full, try Ngezi is along the main road between
Salaam (US$85). Coastal also goes daily which departs Chake Chake from in front of this place diagonally opposite. Konde and Tondooni. Via public transport,
between Pemba and Tanga (US$55). the People’s Bank of Zanzibar in the morn- take the bus to Konde, from where it’s a 3km
ing. Hiring a car costs about TSh6000. Once GETTING THERE & AWAY to 4km walk. Bus drivers are sometimes will-
Bus in Wesha, you can negotiate with local boat The small Takrima sails roughly weekly on ing to drop you at the information centre for
Main routes include the following (with owners to take you over to Misali (about a constantly changing schedule between an additional TSh1000 to TSh2000. Better is
prices on all averaging TSh700): TSh40,000 per person return). There’s no Wete and Tanga (on the mainland). It cur- to combine Ngezi with a visit to Vumawimbi
food or drink on the island, so bring what- rently departs Wete at 10am Wednesday Beach (below).
Route Destination ever you’ll need with you. Alternatively, and Tanga at 10am Sunday (US$25, five
you can arrange Misali excursions through hours). The scruffy Aziza sails weekly be- Kigomasha Peninsula
303 Mkoani guesthouses or travel agencies from about tween Zanzibar and Wete, departing Zanzi- The main reason to come to the Kigomasha
306 Wete via the ‘old’ road TSh45,000 per person return. bar at 10pm Friday, and departing Wete at Peninsula in Pemba’s northwestern corner
334 Wete via the ‘new’ (eastern) road 8am on Wednesday (US$20, eight hours). is to relax on beautiful Vumawimbi Beach on
335 Konde Pujini Ruins Sharouk Guest House is the best place for the peninsula’s eastern side. Other than a
About 10km southeast of Chake Chake at updated information on both. small fishing village, there’s nothing here, so
There’s a shuttle bus from Chake Chake to Pujini are the overgrown and atmospheric The main bus routes are 306 (Wete to bring whatever food and drink you’ll need
Mkoani (TSh1000) connecting with Sepideh ruins of a town dating from the 14th century. Chake Chake along the ‘old’ road via Ziwani), with you.
departures and arrivals. It departs from in It was the seat of the infamous Mohammed 334 (Wete to Chake Chake along the ‘new’ The best way to get to Vumawimbi is on
front of Partnership Travel & Tours about bin Abdul Rahman, who ruled Pemba in the road via Ole) and 324 (Wete to Konde). bicycle from Konde, or via hire car from
two hours before the Sepideh’s scheduled 15th century, prior to the arrival of the Portu- A shuttle bus from Wete to Mkoani Chake Chake. Alternatively, try to negoti-
departure time. Book a place in advance guese. For Pembans, his name is synonymous (TSh1000) connects with Sepideh depar- ate a lift with one of the Konde bus drivers.
when buying your boat ticket. with cruelty due to the harsh punishments tures and arrivals, departing from Raha Hitching is slow going.
he meted out. The main area of interest is Tours & Travel, off the main road near the On the northwestern end of the Kigo-
GETTING AROUND framed by what were once the ramparts sur- Wete post office, about three hours before masha peninsula are Panga ya Watoro Beach
To/From the Airport rounding Rahman’s palace – now little more the Sepideh’s scheduled departure time. and the superbly situated Manta Reef Lodge
Karume Airport, about 6km east of town, than a mound of earth in many places. (% 0747-424637, 423930; www.mantareeflodge.com;
is Pemba’s only airfield. There’s no public The best way to get here is by bicycle, fol- Tumbe s/d full board US$170/240; hmid-Jun–mid-Apr), on a
transport to and from the airport, but at lowing the road southeast past farm plots, The large village of Tumbe lies on a sandy windy cliff top with spectacular views over
least one vehicle meets incoming flights small villages and mangroves. Car hire from cove, and is the site of Pemba’s largest fish the open ocean. Accommodation is in com-
(TSh5000 to Chake Chake centre). Chake Chake costs TSh10,000 return. market. There’s nowhere to stay or eat, but fortably rustic sea-facing cabins, and the
if you’re in the area, it’s worth a stop, espe- lodge can help you organise diving. To get
Car & Motorcycle Wete cially in the mornings when the day’s catch here, stop by Manta Reef’s booking office
Cars and motorbikes can be hired in Chake The lively port- and market-town of Wete is brought in. on the main street in Chake Chake, oppo-
Chake through the Old Mission Lodge or makes an agreeable base from which to ex- About 2km southeast from Tumbe at site ZanAir. Otherwise, there’s at least one
either of the travel agencies. Some sample plore northern Pemba. The road leading from Chwaka are some overgrown ruins, primar- pick-up daily in the morning from Konde to
prices: US$15 between Mkoani and Chake Chake Chake to Wete via Ziwani is pretty, ily at the signposted ‘Haruni’ site, east of the Makangale village, about 4km or 5km south
Chake; US$10 one way between Chake with hills, villages and lots of banana trees. main road. Harun was the son of Moham- of Manta Reef, from where you’ll need to
Chake and Wete; and US$25 to US$30 re- med bin Adbul Rahmin (see opposite), and walk or pay the driver extra to bring you
turn between Chake Chake and Ras Kigo- INFORMATION reputedly just as cruel as his father. all the way up.
masha, including stops at Vumawimbi The best place for arranging excursions to Take the 335 bus and ask the driver to
Beach and Ngezi. Vumawimbi Beach, Ngezi forest and else-
where is Sharouk Guest House, which can
drop you at the junction, from where Tumbe
is an easy walk. NORTHEASTERN
Misali
This little patch of paradise lies offshore
from Chake Chake, surrounded by crys-
also help with booking ferry tickets. Bahari
Divers (%0747-417333) has a base just opposite
for diving; see p137.
Ngezi
The small, dense forest at Ngezi is part of
TANZANIA
tal waters and stunning coral reefs. On the the much larger natural forest that once Northeastern Tanzania is located between
northeast of the island is Mbuyuni Beach, with SLEEPING & EATING covered wide swathes of Pemba. It is nota- Tanzania’s most popular attractions – the
fine, white sands and a small visitor centre, Sharouk Guest House (%245 4386; s/d with shared ble for resembling the highland rainforests northern safari circuit and the Zanzibar
and to the southeast are some mangroves. bathroom US$10/20, with private bathroom US$20/40) This of East Africa more than the lowland Archipelago – but it’s still quite low-key as
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
158 N O R T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • B a g a m o y o www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A 159
Northeastern Tanzania
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
far as tourism is concerned. It’s a rewarding can watch boat builders at work, or visit NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA 0
0
60 km
40 miles
area to explore if you’re looking for some- the fish market. To Arusha
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
thing more off-the-beaten-track than the About 2km north of town and reached via (80km) To Nairobi
(330km)
standard tourist loop but don’t have time to a mango-shaded avenue is Holy Ghost Catholic Moshi
Tsavo East
venture further afield. Most places are eas- Mission, with an excellent museum (%244 0010; Himo Taveta
Voi
NP
ily accessed from both Dar es Salaam and admission free, donations appreciated; h10am-5pm). LEGEND
Nyumba
Arusha, and it’s quite possible to combine Nearby is the chapel where Livingstone’s
Nort
ya Mungu
GR Game Reserve
Reservoir Usangi NP National Park
coastal attractions – Saadani Game Reserve body was laid before being taken to Zanzibar NR National Reserve
h
Mwanga
and the beaches north or south of Pangani – Town en route to Westminster Abbey.
ὈὈὈ Ὀ
Mt Kindoroko To Malindi
Kisangara (2113m) (60km)
with inland mountain areas such as Amani About 500m south of Bagamoyo along Chini
Pa r
and the western Usambaras within a rea- the road to Dar es Salaam is Chuo cha Sanaa
e M
Tsavo West
Ibaya NP
sonable time frame and budget. (College of Arts; www.college-of-arts.org), home of the Camp Site
KENYA
tn
national dance company and site of occa- Zange Gate
s
BAGAMOYO sional traditional dancing and drumming Same
Kisiwani MOMBASA
So
%023
Njiro
performances. Mwembe
ut h
Camp Site
Mbaga
Sleepy Bagamoyo was once one of the most Further south along the beach are the Shengena Peak
(2463m) Mkomazi
important dhow ports along the East Afri- overgrown but intriguing Kaole ruins (admission
Par
GR
Shimba
can coast and was the terminus of the trade TSh1500). These include the remains of a 13th- Hills NR
e M
B1
caravan route linking Lake Tanganyika century mosque (one of the oldest on main- Mtae
t ns
Shagayu Peak
with the sea. Later it served as a way station land Tanzania), and some gravestones from Sunga
(2220m)
Lunga
Lunga
for missionaries travelling from Zanzibar the 15th century. To get here, head south Mlalo
Us
Funzi
to the interior, and many of the European along the beach for about 5km past Kaole Buiko Horohoro
am
Shimoni
ba
explorers, including Burton, Stanley and village into the mangrove swamps. Where Migambo
ra
Livingstone, began and ended their trips the beach apparently ends, go a few hundred Lushoto
M
Soni Amboni
here. From 1887 to 1891 Bagamoyo was the metres inland and look for the stone pillars.
Mkulu m
ou
Galanos
Mombo Mazumbai Caves
nta
Sulphur Springs
capital of German East Africa, and in 1888 There’s an easier, slightly longer route along FR
ins
Kwamkoro
u zi
it was the site of the first major uprising the road running past Chuo cha Sanaa. Both River
Amboni
Amani
el
Amani Wete
against the colonial government. In 1891 routes, and especially the beach route, have a
ὈὈ
NR Sigi Ngomeni
Tanga
nn
the capital was transferred to Dar es Salaam, reputation for muggings, so it’s best to walk Korogwe Muheza
Cha
Tongoni Ruins
sending Bagamoyo into a slow decline from in a group and with a guide, and not carry To Kondoa A14 Pemba
(220km)
which it is only now beginning to recover, valuables. Hale Kigombe
Chake
Pemba
Segera Chake
spurred along by completion of a good Tar- Pangani Pangan
i River Pangani
Mkoani
mac road from Dar es Salaam. While most Sleeping & Eating Korodigo
Handeni Falls Bweni Maziwe
buildings are in an advanced stage of decay, BUDGET Mwera
ὈὈ
Ushongo
Bagamoyo’s long history, sleepy charm and Mary Nice Place (% 0744-024015; maryniceplace@
nearby beaches make it an agreeable day or yahoo.co.uk; r from TSh10,000-20,000) Simple and
weekend excursion from Dar es Salaam. homy, this is the best budget bet – a con- Mkata Mkwaja
verted house with a small garden, clean, no- Kimamba
Saadani Tumbatu
Information frills rooms with fan, and the possibility of Manga
GR
Mkokotoni
There’s a card phone at the telecom building meals. It’s just in from the road to the left, a Mligaji
Lu
at the town entrance. The National Micro- few minutes on foot after passing Chuo Cha A14 Mvave Saadani
Zanzibar
ki
Miono
gu
finance Bank, next door, changes cash. For Sanaa, and is unsignposted. Anyone should
Za n
Zaraninge
ra
Riv FR
er Zanzibar
Internet, try 4MSK (per hr TSh2000; h9am-6pm) at be able to point you in the right direction. Mandera Town
z ib
the Catholic mission. Look for the thatched entry gate covered Mvomero Kwadihombo Wa m i R i v
ar
er
The small tourist information office at with bougainvillea blossoms. Kibaoni Msata
C
ha
the main junction at the entrance to town Bagamoyo n Uzi
n
To Dodoma el
can help with guides and excursions. MIDRANGE (275km) Kaole ruins
er
Ruvu
Travellers Lodge (%244 0077; www.travellers-lodge
Riv
Bridge
Sights & Activities
vu
Chalinze
.com; camping with shower TSh5000, s/d garden cottage B129 A7
Ru
Mbudya
With its crumbling German-era colonial TSh35,000/45,000, s/d beach cottage TSh45,000/55,000) Mlandizi
Bongoyo
buildings and narrow streets dotted with This is one of the better-value beach places, Kibaha
DAR ES SALAAM
Zanzibar-style carved doors, central Baga- with cottages scattered around expansive Morogoro
moyo is well worth a leisurely stroll, espe- grounds and a restaurant. It’s on the road Latham
cially the area along Ocean Rd. Nearby on running parallel to the beach, just south of To Iringa (310km); To Lindi
Mbeya (555km) (460km)
the beach is the colourful port, where you the entrance to the Catholic mission.
TA N Z A N I A 160 N O R T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • S a a d a n i G a m e R e s e r v e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • Pa n g a n i 161
TA N Z A N I A
Bagamoyo Beach Resort (%244 0083; bbr@baganet crocodiles and many birds, including lesser Saadani and Selous Game Reserve (US$130 Sleeping & Eating
.com; bandas per person with shared bathroom TSh9000, s/d flamingos (in the delta), fish eagles, ham- one way, minimum two passengers). The best place to base yourself is on one
with fan TSh26,000/32,000, with air-con TSh34,000/42,000; merkops and kingfishers. Giraffes are com- of the beaches running north and south
a) Fine and friendly, with rooms in two monly seen, and with some effort you may ROAD of town.
blocks (ask for the one closer to the water), also see elephants, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest Both lodges provide road transport to/from
a few no-frills beach bandas and a seaside and (rarely) lions. The main activities are Dar es Salaam for about US$200 per vehicle, PANGANI & NORTH
location just north of Travellers Lodge. The boat trips along the Wami River and wildlife one way (about four hours). Few travellers stay in town, most preferring
cuisine is vaguely French, and tasty (meals drives and walks. From Dar es Salaam, the route is via the beaches to the north of the main junc-
from TSh4000). Chalinze on the Morogoro road, and then tion (where the road from Muheza joins the
Badeco Beach Hotel (%244 0018; www.badeco Information 50km north to Mandera village along the coastal road), or those on the southern side
beachhotel.com; camping with showers TSh3000, d with Entry to the reserve costs US$20/5 per day Arusha highway. It’s easy to get to Mandera of the river around Ushongo.
shared bathroom TSh12,000, d/tr with private bathroom per adult/child aged five to 15 years, and by bus, but there’s no public transport for Peponi Holiday Resort (%0748-202962, 0741-
TSh24,000/30,000) This long-standing German- guides cost US$10 per day. Camping costs the remaining 60km from there to Saadani. 540139; www.peponiresort.com; camping US$4, d banda
run place has a large, thatched restaurant, US$20/5 per adult/child. To reach Saadani from Pangani, you need US$40, discounted family & backpacker rates) A relax-
en suite rooms with Zanzibar-style beds and to first cross the Pangani River by ferry, then ing and traveller-friendly place set in ex-
cheaper rooms sharing facilities. It’s on the Sleeping continue south along a rough road (4WD pansive grounds on a long, good beach
beach at the southern end of town. Saadani Safari Lodge (%022-277 3294, 0741-555678; only) to the reserve’s northern gate at Mli- about 19km north of Pangani. In addition
www.saadanisafarilodge.com; s/d full board & park fees gaji. Tent With A View Safari Lodge and the to simple, breezy double bandas, there are
TOP END US$290/500; s) This beachside retreat is the Tides (p162) provide transfers for US$100 several larger five-person chalets, a camp-
Lazy Lagoon (% 0748-237422, 0744-237422; www only lodging within the park, and a fine base per vehicle each way (about one hour). ing ground and ablution blocks. Tasty
.tanzaniasafaris.info; s/d full board & boat transfers US$160/ from which to explore the area. Each of the There’s also a daily bus between Tanga and cuisine and a nearby reef for snorkelling
240; s) A relaxing, upmarket place about nine cosy and comfortable cottages is set Mkwaja (TSh5000, five hours), from where complete the picture. The proprietors are
10km south of Bagamoyo on the secluded directly on the beach. There’s a restaurant you could be collected by the lodges. helpful with information about excursions
Lazy Lagoon peninsula. To get here by road, with a raised sundowner deck, and a tree and onward connections, and the camp has
follow signs from the main highway to the house overlooking a small waterhole. The at- PANGANI its own mashua (motorised dhow) for sails.
Mbegani Fisheries compound, from where mosphere is unpretentious and comfortable, %027 If you’re camping, bring supplies with you,
it’s just a short boat ride over to the lodge. staff friendly and helpful, and the cuisine is About 55km south of Tanga is the small and and if you’ll be staying in the bandas, book
You can leave your vehicle in the fisheries excellent. Leisure-time pursuits include boat charmingly dilapidated Swahili outpost of in advance if possible. Take any bus run-
compound. safaris on the Wami River, vehicle safaris, Pangani. It rose from obscure beginnings as ning along the Pangani–Tanga coastal route
walks and snorkelling excursions to a nearby just one of many coastal dhow ports to be- and ask the driver to drop you near Kigo-
Getting There & Away sandbank. come a terminus of the caravan route from mbe village at the Peponi turn-off (TSh500
Bagamoyo is about 70km north of Dar es Tent With a View Safari Lodge (%022-211 0507, Lake Tanganyika, a major export point for from Pangani, TSh800 from Tanga), from
Salaam, and an easy drive along good Tar- 0741-323318; www.saadani.com; s/d full board US$255/350) slaves and ivory, and one of the largest ports where it’s just a short walk. Taxis from
mac. With a 4WD it’s also possible to reach This secluded, tropical hideaway makes an- between Bagamoyo and Mombasa. By the Tanga cost TSh20,000 to TSh25,000, de-
Bagamoyo from Msata (65km west on the other relaxing base for exploring Saadani. end of the 19th century, focus had shifted to pending on road conditions and your bar-
Dar es Salaam–Arusha highway, north of Accommodation is in luxurious raised ban- Tanga and Dar es Salaam, and Pangani again gaining abilities.
Chalinze). das hidden away among the coconut groves faded into anonymity. Argovia Tented Lodge (%263 0000, 0748-783613;
Buses and minibuses ply between Baga- on the beach just outside the park bound- The most interesting area of town is near [email protected]; camping US$5, s/d bandas
moyo and Dar es Salaam (TSh1000, 1½ aries, and everything is very plush, but in the river, where there are some carved door- US$30/40, s luxury tents US$51-60, d luxury tents US$60-84)
hours) throughout the day. a low-key, comfortable way. In addition to ways, buildings from the German colonial This good-value establishment is the only
vehicle and boat safaris, there’s the chance era, and old houses of Indian traders. About upmarket accommodation along the north-
SAADANI GAME RESERVE for excursions around the camp, including 10km offshore is Maziwe Marine Reserve (admis- ern coast. Most accommodation is in raised
About 70km up the coast from Bagamoyo is guided walks to a nearby green-turtle nest- sion TSh1000), a small sand island where you luxury tents of the sort you find in upscale
tiny Saadani Game Reserve, a 1000-sq-km ing site. No children under eight years old. can snorkel. The island can only be visited safari camps. There are also some small
patch of coastal wilderness that is a national Warthog Camp (camping US$8, tent rental US$10), at low tide, and there’s no food or drink. stone bandas, a good restaurant and a range
park in everything but name (awaiting final Camping is possible at this basic camp out- of excursions. It’s on a low cliff overlooking
approval by Parliament). Laid-back and re- side the park in Saadani village. It has pit Information the sea, and is signposted about 3km north
laxing, it’s one of the few spots in Tanzania latrines and bucket showers. The closest banks are in Tanga. The spor- of the main junction.
where you can enjoy the beach and bush at adically functioning Pangani Cultural Tourism Tinga Tinga Resort (%263 0022; camping TSh4000,
the same time. It’s also easily accessed from Getting There & Away Program office (h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) on s/d/tr US$25/35/45) The friendly and low-key
Dar es Salaam as an overnight excursion AIR the riverfront can help organise town tours, Tinga Tinga is a reasonable choice, though
and is a good choice if you don’t have time Daily ZanAir flights connect Dar, Zanzibar river cruises and excursions to Maziwe Is- the other beach places are better value. Ac-
to explore further afield. and Saadani (US$50 one way Zanzibar– land, as can any of the hotels. commodation is in large, faded twin-bedded
To the south of the reserve is the Wami Saadani, US$75 one way Dar–Saadani, via It’s not safe to walk along the beaches bungalows set inland, and just north of the
River, where you’re likely to see hippos, Zanzibar). Coastal Aviation flies between close to town. main junction. Five minutes’ walk away is a
TA N Z A N I A 162 N O R T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • Ta n g a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • Ta n g a 163
TA N Z A N I A
restaurant-bar gazebo (meals about TSh4000) Coastal Aviation are the best lines to NBC (cnr Bank & Sokoine Sts) Just west of the market; Other recommendations:
overlooking the water. check with, as both have scheduled flights changes cash and travellers cheques, and has an ATM. Ocean Breeze Hotel (%264 4445; cnr Tower & Sokoine
New River View Inn Restaurant & Lodge (Jamhuri to nearby destinations (ZanAir to Saadani Tourcare Tanzania (%264 4111; Mkwakwani Rd; Sts; r with fan/air-con TSh7000/12,000; a) Rooms here
St; s/d with shared bathroom TSh2500/4000) This is the and Coastal to Saadani and Tanga). h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) Just down from Patwas restaur- are on the scruffy side, but OK, and many have nets. It’s just
cheapest place, with no-frills rooms sharing ant; helpful with information on nearby attractions, and east of the market, and one of the better budget choices in
facilities. It’s on the waterfront road, just BOAT with arranging guides for excursions (TSh10,000 per group the town centre.
east of the Customs House. There’s no food, Dhows sail regularly between Pangani and per day). Asad Hotel (%264 4711, 264 6801; d TSh12,500; a)
but try Pangani’s lively night markets in the Mkokotoni, on the northwestern coast of Functional rooms with views over the bus stand; it’s in a
surrounding streets. Zanzibar. Sleeping multistorey building just off Taifa Rd in the Ngamiani area.
BUDGET
SOUTH OF PANGANI ROAD Kiboko Restaurant, Bar & Campsite (%264 4929; jda MIDRANGE
The long, palm-fringed beach about 15km The best connections between Pangani and [email protected]; Amboni Rd; camping US$4) Good, Panori Hotel (%264 6044; [email protected];
south of Pangani around Ushongo makes a Tanga are via the rehabilitated coastal road, secure camping in a large yard, spotless ab- Ras Kazone; s/d in new wing TSh25,000/30,000, in old reno-
wonderful coastal getaway. Swimming isn’t with about five buses daily (TSh1500, 1½ lutions, power points, a well-stocked bar vated wing TSh18,000/22,000, in old wing TSh15,000/18,000;
tide dependent, and apart from the area in hours), except during the height of the and a nice garden restaurant. Management a) If you don’t mind the location, in a resi-
the immediate vicinity of Ushongo village, rainy season. The first departs Pangani are helpful with excursions and informa- dential area about 3km from the centre (no
you’ll have most spots to yourself. at about 6.30am so you can connect with tion on Tanga. The turn-off from Hospital public transport), this is one of the better
Tides (%0748-225812; www.thetideslodge.com; s/d a Tanga–Arusha bus. It’s also possible to Rd is signposted about 500m before Inn midrange choices. There are clean, modern
half board US$110/150) This unpretentious place reach Pangani from Muheza (TSh1000), by the Sea. rooms in the new wing, all with nets and fan,
mixes an intimate seaside location with spa- from where there are connections to Tanga Inn by the Sea (%264 4614; Hospital Rd; r with fan/ and an outdoor restaurant with slow service
cious, breezy bungalows and excellent cuis- or Korogwe, but the road is worse and con- air-con TSh7000/10,000; a) Inn by the Sea has a and tasty meals. Take Hospital Rd east to
ine. The seven bungalows – lined up amid nections infrequent. pleasant waterside setting on the southwest- Ras Kazone, and follow the signposts.
the coconut palms along the beach – are To Ushongo and the beaches south of ern edge of Ras Kazone, and very run-down Hotel Kola Prieto (%264 4206; India St; r TSh25,
wonderful, with huge beds surrounded by Pangani, all the hotels do pick-ups. Alter- rooms, although they’re fair enough value 500; a) This centrally located high-rise hotel
billowing mosquito nets, and large bath- natively, there’s a bus that runs between for the price. Meals can be arranged; allow has good modern rooms (no nets or screens),
rooms. There’s a beachside bar, and staff Tanga and Mkwaja (at the edge of Saadani about two hours. efficient service and, despite the bland
can sort out excursions, including to Maziwe Game Reserve) that passes Mwera village
island. For a honeymoon location, or beach- (6km from Ushongo) daily about 7am going TANGA 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
side retreat, it’s hard to beat the value here. north, and about 3.30pm going south.
Pick-ups from Pangani can be arranged, as Another possibility is to hire a bike in A B C D
can transfers to/from Saadani Game Re- Pangani and cycle down to Ushongo. INFORMATION EATING
serve, and to/from Segera, where there are The vehicle ferry over the Pangani River Kaributanga.com.................................1
MD Pharmacy....................................2
D3
C3
Food Palace.....................................10 D3
Patwas Restaurant............................11 C3
connections to the Scandinavian Express bus runs in theory between 6.30am and 6.30pm 1 NBC Bank & ATM..............................3 C3 SD Supermarket...............................12 C2 Tanga
Tourcare Tanzania..............................4 C3
between Dar es Salaam and Arusha. daily (TSh100/4000 per person/vehicle), Yacht
ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ
TRANSPORT Club
Emayani Beach Lodge (%250 1741; www.emayani and there are small passenger boats (large SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Coastal Aviation...............................(see 5) Ras
Shia Mosque.......................................5 B3 Taxi Rank.........................................13 D3 Kazone
lodge.com; s/d/tr US$63/79/100) Emayani, on the enough to take a motorcycle) throughout
beach about 2km north of the Tides, has a the day (TSh200). SLEEPING
Hotel Kola Prieto................................6 D3
row of agreeably rustic bungalows strung Inn by the Sea....................................7 D2
out along the sand, and a restaurant, and TANGA Kiboko Restaurant, Bar & Campsite....8
Ocean Breeze Hotel...........................9
D2
D3
7
%027
Bombo
is about as laid-back as it gets. The bunga- Hospital
ὈὈὈ
Ὀ
To Panori
lows are made entirely of makuti, and are One of Tanzania’s major industrial towns 8 d Hotel
2 iR
M
(300m)
very open and natural. Staff can arrange until the collapse of the sisal market, and To Amboni Caves (8km); Tanga Bay bo
n
ak Rd
Horohoro (70km); Am
on
sails on a ngalawa (outrigger canoe) and still an important seaport, Tanga has a
go
Mombasa (170km)
ro
St Anthony's
other excursions. Pick-ups from Pangani sleepy, semicolonial atmosphere and faded Mom
basa
Rd
Cathedral
Port lR
d Jamhuri Clock
ita Park
cost US$20 return. charm. There’s little reason to make a Rd
Ho
sp Tower Independence Ave
d
Jamhuri
jaro R
Coco Beach Resort (%0741-333449; camping US$6, special detour to visit, although it makes Bombo
Tower St
d
Park
Bank St
Indep 12
basa R
Goan enden See Enlargement Arab Rd
a convenient stop en route to and from ce Ave
Kiliman
s/d with shared bathroom US$18/36, s/d/tr with private St Market
Sokoin
Mom
Arab Rd 3 9
bathroom US$21/42/60) Small, serviceable cottages Mombasa. e (Mar
ket) St Sokoine (Market) St 10
Usambara St
Chumbageni 2
just in from the beach south of Emayani
Guinea Rd
Uhuru 1
Custom St
Swahili St
11
Usambara St
Park
Guinea Rd
6
Beach Lodge. Information Eckernförde Ave 4 India St
13
Railway St
To Airstrip (2.5km); 5
Custom St
Kaributanga.com (Sokoine St; per hr TSh500; h9am- 3 Muheza (37km);
Mkwakwani Rd
Dar es Salaam (355km) Eckernförde Ave
Ring St
Getting There & Away 9pm) Come here for Internet access.
Mkwakwani Rd
Ring St
0 200 m
AIR MD Pharmacy (%264 4067; cnr Sokoine St & To Bus Station (200m); Asad Hotel
Train Station
(Closed)
Stadium 0 0.1 miles
Taifa Rd
There’s an airstrip within about 1km of Mkwakwani Rd; h8am-12.45pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, (200m); Tongoni Ruins (20km);
Peponi Holiday Resort (30km); Ngamiani
Ring St
Pangani (50km)
Ushongo for charter flights. ZanAir and 8am-12.15pm Sat & Sun) Opposite the market.
Tanga
TA N Z A N I A 164 N O R T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • A r o u n d Ta n g a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • M u h e z a 165
TA N Z A N I A
ambience, does a good job of fulfilling the to four hours), there are a couple of direct east on foot. Get an early start, as finding a Amani Nature Reserve
promise of its business card to provide you buses departing by 7am, or you can take any lift back in the afternoon can be difficult. This often overlooked nature reserve is
with the ‘finest hospitality sensation’. Arusha bus and transfer at Mombo. located west of Tanga in the heart of the
To Pangani (TSh1500, 1½ hours), there MUHEZA eastern Usambara mountains. It’s a peaceful
Eating are small buses throughout the day along %027 place with some pleasant walks along shady
Tanga compensates for its dearth of good the coastal road. Muheza is a scrappy junction town where forest paths, and a worthwhile detour for the
accommodation with a few culinary gems: For Mombasa, see p257; the Scandi- the roads to Amani Nature Reserve and to ornithologically or botanically inclined.
Patwas Restaurant (Mkwakwani Rd; meals from navian bus from Dar to Mombasa passes Pangani branch off the main Tanga high-
TSh1500; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) An unassuming Tanga about noon. way. There are a few guesthouses in town, INFORMATION
place, and the best restaurant in Tanga, with including the grubby Hotel Ambassador (s/d At Sigi, there is a good information centre
lassis, fresh juices, tasty, good-value meals AROUND TANGA with shared bathroom TSh2500/3500) on the main (h 8am-6pm) at the old Station Master’s
and helpful owners. It’s just south of the Amboni Caves road towards Tanga. House, with information about the area’s
market. Long the subject of local legend, these lime- There’s a Scandinavian Express bus book- plants and animals, history, local medicinal
Food Palace (%264 6816; Sokoine St; hlunch stone caves (admission TSh2000) make an intri- ing office next to Hotel Ambassador (for plants and more.
Mon, breakfast, lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) Another good guing, off-beat excursion for anyone with buses between Dar es Salaam and Mombasa The main reserve office (%027-264 0313; entry
choice, this place has an array of tasty In- an interest in spelunking, although it’s not via Muheza and Tanga). Buses to Amani Na- fee per person US$30, per vehicle US$5) is at Amani.
dian snacks and meals, including some vege- all it’s made out to be in the Tanga tourist ture Reserve leave from the main junction Entry and guide fees (US$20 per group per
tarian selections. brochures. along the road leading towards the market. day) can be paid here, or at the Sigi infor-
Kiboko Restaurant & Bar (meals from TSh3000) The caves were originally thought to ex- mation centre.
Garden seating, a well-stocked bar and a tend up to 200km or more, and are said to KOROGWE Most trails take between one and three
huge menu featuring kiboko- (hippo-) sized have been used by the Kenyan Mau Mau %027 hours. They are detailed in the booklet, A
portions of such delicacies as prawns with during the 1950s as a hide-out from the Korogwe is of little interest other than as a Guide to Trails and Drive Routes in Amani
green pepper-sauce, kingfish curry, sand- British. Although a 1994 survey concluded transport junction. In the western part of Nature Reserve, on sale at the information
wiches and mishikaki. See also p163. that their extent was much smaller, rumours town, known as ‘new’ Korogwe, are the bus centre at Sigi, and at the reserve office in
For self-catering try SD Supermarket (Bank St), of them reaching all the way to Mombasa stand and several guesthouses. To the east Amani.
behind the market. persist. If you visit, bring along a torch, and is ‘old’ Korogwe with the train station (no
wear closed shoes to avoid needing to pick passenger service). SLEEPING & EATING
Getting There & Away bat droppings off your feet afterwards. Motel White Parrot (%264 1068; s/d TSh30,000/ The Amani Conservation Centre (%027-264 0313)
AIR The caves are located about 8km north- 40,000; a) is a large roadside rest stop with a runs two guesthouses: the Amani Conservation
There are daily flights with Coastal Aviation west of Tanga off the Horohoro–Mombasa restaurant (meals TSh4000), and with spiffy Centre Rest House (r with shared bathroom TSh5000)
(%264 6548) between Tanga, Dar es Salaam, road, and an easy bicycle ride from town. rooms that have TV and minifridge. It’s on at Amani and the Sigi Rest House (r TSh5000)
Zanzibar and Pemba (one way between Tanga Otherwise charter a taxi, or take a daladala the main highway and is unmissable. at Sigi. Both are good, with hot water for
and Pemba/Dar es Salaam US$55/100). The towards Amboni village and get out at the For something cheaper, try Travellers Inn bathing, and filtered water for drinking. The
airstrip is about 3km west of town along the turn-off for the caves, which is near the (d TSh7500), opposite the bus stand. rooms at Sigi have bathrooms and are mar-
Korogwe road (TSh2500 in a taxi). Coastal’s forestry office. From here, it’s about 2.5km ginally more comfortable, while the setting
office is off India St, near the Shia mosque, on foot to Kiomoni village, from where the USAMBARA MOUNTAINS and rustic atmosphere are better at Amani.
not far from Hotel Kola Prieto. caves stretch west along the Mkulumuzi With their wide vistas, cool climate, wind- Meals (breakfast TSh2500, lunch and dinner
River. Guides can be arranged locally or at ing paths and picturesque villages, the Us- TSh5000) are available at both, though it’s
BOAT the tourist office in Tanga. ambaras are one of northeastern Tanzania’s a good idea to bring fruit and snacks as a
The boat Takrima sails roughly weekly be- highlights. It’s easily possible to spend at supplement. The Sigi Rest House is opposite
tween Tanga and Wete on Pemba, depart- Tongoni Ruins least a week here hiking from village to vil- the Sigi information centre. To reach the
ing in each direction at 10am (US$25, five About 20km south of Tanga along the lage, or relaxing in one spot and doing your Amani Conservation Centre Rest House,
hours). coastal road are the time-ravaged Tongoni exploring as a series of day walks. once in Amani, continue straight past the
ruins (admission TSh2000). They include the The mountains, which are part of the an- main fork, ignoring the ‘resthouse’ signpost,
BUS crumbling remains of a mosque and about cient Eastern Arc chain, are divided into two to the reserve office. The Rest House is next
To Dar es Salaam, the fastest connection is 20 overgrown Shirazi pillar-style tombs – ranges separated by a 4km-wide valley. The to the office.
on Scandinavian, departing Tanga (en route the largest collection of such tombs on the western Usambaras are the most accessible Camping (US$5) is possible at both Sigi and
from Mombasa) about 12.30pm (TSh7000 East African coast. Both the mosque and the and have the better road network, while the Amani with your own tent and supplies.
to TSh10,000, four hours; book in advance). tombs are estimated to date from the 14th eastern Usambaras, around Amani, are less
Otherwise, Raha Leo and several other lines or 15th century, when Tongoni was a major developed. Both ranges are densely popu- GETTING THERE & AWAY
depart Tanga every few hours between about coastal trading port. lated, with the main tribes the Sambaa, the Amani is 32km northwest of Muheza along
8am and 3pm (TSh6000, five hours). To get here, take any vehicle heading to- Kilindi, the Zigua and the Mbugu. a dirt road that is in fair condition except
To Arusha, there are at least three depart- wards Pangani along the coastal road and While the climate is comfortable year- for the final seven kilometres, which are
ures between about 6am and 11am (TSh9000, get out at the turn-off (look for a rusty sign- round, paths get very muddy during the in bad shape (4WD only). There’s at least
seven hours). To Lushoto (TSh4000, three board). From here, the ruins are about 1km rainy season. one truck or bus daily from Muheza to
166 N O R T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • U s a m b a r a M o u n t a i n s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • U s a m b a r a M o u n t a i n s 167
Lushoto
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
Sigi, sometimes continuing on to Amani LUSHOTO 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
fees, but excluding food. It gets chilly and Midrange
(TSh1500) and Kwamkoro, about 9km be- wet in Lushoto, so bring a jacket and warm, St Eugene’s Hostel (%264 0055; s/d/ste TSh18,000/
yond Amani, and usually departing Muheza A B waterproof clothes. 30,000/40,000) This quiet place has spotless,
between noon and 2pm. Going in the other INFORMATION comfortable rooms, all with good, hot
ELCT Office........................................1 B4
direction, transport usually passes Amani National Microfinance Bank...............2 A4
SLEEPING & EATING showers and balconies with views over the
about 6.30am. If you’re driving from 1 Tourist Information Centre.................3 B4 Budget hills, and is the best accommodation in this
Muheza, the route is straightforward until SLEEPING Karibuni Lodge (www.karibunilodge.com; camping US$3, range close to the town centre. It’s run by
the final junction, where you’ll see Bulwa Lawn's Hotel......................................4 B5 dm US$6, s/d from US$12/16) This small backpack- an order of sisters and profits go to sup-
New Teacher Safarini Club.................5 A4
signposted to the right; Amani is about Tumaini Hostel...................................6 B4 ers’ house, surrounded by a small patch of port their work with local children. Meals
2km further along to the left (staying on Usambara Lodge................................7 B3 forest, has a cosy, woodsy feel, large rooms are available (TSh5000), and homemade
View Point Guest House.................... 8 A4
the main road). White House Annex...........................9 A4 (some with bathroom), a book swap, tasty cheese and jam are sold on the premises. St
EATING
meals and a crackling hearth. It’s about Eugene’s is along the main road about 3km
Lushoto Tumaini Restaurant..........................(see 6) 1.5km south of the town centre near the before Lushoto; ask the bus to drop you at
%027 TRANSPORT
district hospital and is signposted; ask the the Montessori Centre.
Lushoto is a leafy highland town nestled 2 Bus Stand.........................................10 A4 bus to drop you at the hospital. About 15km outside Lushoto near Mig-
Ὀ
in a fertile valley at about 1200m, and sur- Tumaini Hostel (%264 0094; [email protected]; s/d ambo village are several more places, all well
rounded by pines and eucalyptus mixed To Mullers Mountain
Lodge (16km);
TSh10,000/17,000) Functionality is the theme situated for walking, and reasonable options
with banana plants and other tropical foli- Mtae (65km) here, with a few long hallways of reasonable- if you have your own transport. The main
age. It’s the centre of the western Usam- value rooms in a two-storey compound on one is Mullers Mountain Lodge (%264 0204; mullers
baras and makes an excellent base for hikes the main road near the telecom building. [email protected]; camping TSh3500, s/d/tr/q
into the surrounding hills. Prison
Tumaini Restaurant (%264 0027; meals from TSh30,000/40,000/50,000/70,000), a sprawling fam-
Ὀ
During the German era, Lushoto (or TSh1500; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) This is just ily homestead with rooms in the main
Wilhelmstal, as it was then known) was a next door, and has inexpensive meals. house or in nearby cottages. There are
favoured vacation spot for colonial admin- 3 Lawn’s Hotel (%264 0005/66; www.lawnshotel also a few less appealing cement huts with
istrators, and was even slated at one point Anglican
Catholic
Church .com; camping with hot shower TSh4500, s/d with shared shared bathroom, and a camping area.
Church
to become the colonial capital. 7 bathroom TSh14,000/18,000, with private bathroom
Park TSh30,000/35,000) This Lushoto institution at GETTING THERE & AWAY
INFORMATION To Irente Farm (5km);
the entrance to town has rooms that are Daily buses travel between Lushoto and
2
ELCT Office (per hr TSh2000; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) In- Irente Viewpoint
(6km) Market 3 quite faded these days, but still retains ves- Tanga (TSh4000, three to four hours), Dar
ternet access; on the main road, next to Tumaini Restaurant. tiges of rustic charm. It’s ideal for camping, es Salaam (TSh8000, seven to nine hours)
National Microfinance Bank (h8am-3pm Mon-Fri) 10 however, with large lawns, hot showers and and Arusha (TSh7000 to TSh8000, six
On the main road; changes cash and travellers cheques 1 lots of space. hours), all departing in the morning, and
(minimum US$40 commission for travellers cheques). 4 6 White House Annex (d with shared bathroom there are daladalas throughout the day be-
Tourist Information Centre (%264 0132) Just down TSh6000, s/d with private bathroom Sh7000/8000) No- tween Lushoto and Mombo (TSh1000, one
the small road running next to the bank, and a good spot 8
frills rooms with hot water, and meals on hour). If you’re going from Lushoto to ei-
for arranging hikes. If would-be guides approach you on 9 5 order. It’s five minutes’ walk from the bus ther Dar es Salaam, Moshi or Arusha, you
the street, check here first to verify that they are official stand: head over the small bridge, turn left can take a direct bus from Lushoto or (often
before starting out. and go up the hill. faster) get a bus to Mombo, the junction
Usambara Lodge (s/d with shared bathroom 3500/ town on the main highway, and then get one
ACTIVITIES 6000) More no-frills rooms, and a good loca- of the larger express buses to Dar es Salaam.
The hills surrounding Lushoto offer some tion near the park, away from the clutch of The place to wait is at New Liverpool Hotel,
wonderful walking along well-worn foot- 5 budget hotels near the bus stand. on the main road about 1km west of the
4
paths that weave past villages, cornfields At Irente Viewpoint, there’s camping at Mombo junction, where all the Dar–Arusha
and banana plantations, and range from a To Karibuni Lodge (1km); St Eugene's
Irente Viewpoint Campsite (camping TSh2500), on buses stop for a rest break, beginning from
few hours to several days. Hostel (2km); Soni (15.5km);
Mombo (31km)
the edge of the escarpment, and at the about 10am.
An easy starter hike is to Irente viewpoint nearby Irente Farm (%264 000; camping TSh2000, For the lodges near Migambo, take the
(about 1½ hours return), which begins on r with shared bathroom TSh6000). road heading uphill and northeast of town
the road running southwest from the An- Mtae, a small village north of Lushoto with a There are lots of basic guesthouses near to Magamba, turn right at the signposted
glican church and offers wide views down beautiful cliff-top setting. The tourist office the market, all with serviceable, grubby junction and continue for about 7km to
to the plains below; camping is possible. can offer suggestions for other routes. Rates rooms and bucket showers, including View Migambo, where all three lodges are sign-
En route and shortly before the viewpoint vary depending on the hike, but expect to Point Guest House (%264 0031; r with shared bath- posted. Swiss Farm Cottage is the first one
is Irente Farm, where you can buy fresh pay about TSh25,000 per person per day room TSh5000), diagonally across from and you’ll reach, about 1km off the main road to
cheese, yogurt and bread. (less in a group) on multiday hikes, includ- just before White House Annex, and New the left. Mullers is about 1km further down
There’s also a good three- to four-day hike ing camping or accommodation in basic Teacher Safarini Club (r with shared bathroom TSh3500), the Migambo road. There’s a daily bus to/
through villages and forests from Lushoto to guesthouses, guide and village-development directly opposite White House Annex. from Tanga that goes to within around 2kms
TA N Z A N I A 168 N O R T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • Pa re M o u n t a i n s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A 169
TA N Z A N I A
of the lodges, departing Tanga at about 9am Although the Pare Mountains are not as minibuses travel daily between Same, Dar there’s a simple guesthouse (r with shared bathroom
or 10am and reaching the Migambo area at accessible or developed for tourism as the es Salaam and Moshi, leaving Same in the TSh4000) near the main mosque.
around 2pm. Usambaras, they offer rewarding hiking, al- morning. There is a direct bus between Aru- Several pick-ups go daily between Mwanga
though you will need to be self-sufficient sha and Same, departing Arusha at around and Usangi. From Arusha and Moshi,
Soni and arrange things yourself. The best way 8am (TSh4000, 2½ hours). To Mbaga, trans- there’s a direct bus, departing in the morn-
%027 to explore is to spend a night at Mwanga port leaves Same most days between about ing (TSh5000; four hours from Arusha). Ask
Tiny Soni, about halfway along the Mombo– (for the north Pares) or Same (for the south 11am and 2pm. the driver to drop you at Lomwe Secondary
Lushoto road, lacks Lushoto’s infrastruc- Pares) getting organised, and then head up School.
ture, but makes a good change of pace if to either Usangi or Mbaga, from where you Mbaga
you’ll be staying a while in the Usambaras. can access the best hikes. Mbaga, about 30km southeast of Same near Mkomazi Game Reserve
It’s known for nearby Kwa Mungu hill, about Lodging and food in the Pare Mountains Mkomazi Game Reserve, offers hikes to the The completely undeveloped Mkomazi
30 minutes away on foot, and is home to are for the most part very basic. With the ex- surrounding hills and villages, and to the Game Reserve spreads along the Kenyan
some attractive butterflies. Hikes to these ception of Hill-Top Tona Lodge in Mbaga, top of 2463m Shengena Peak (two or three border in the shadow of the Pare Moun-
and other destinations can be arranged at most accommodation is with villagers, or days), the highest in the Pare Mountains. tains, its dry savanna lands contrasting
Maweni Farm or at the tourist office in camping. The rustic former mission house of Hill- sharply with the moist forests of the Pares.
Lushoto. Organised hiking is done in the frame- Top Tona Lodge (%0744-852010; tona_lodge@hotmail The reserve, which is contiguous with Ken-
Maweni Farm (%264 0426, 0748-608313; www work of the CTP, which charges TSh25,000 .com; camping US$5, r per person with shared bathroom ya’s Tsavo West National Park, is known
.maneno.net; camping per tent US$10, s/d full board for two people per day, including a guide, US$10) is one of the best bases in the Pares, for its black rhinos, which were introduced
with shared bathroom US$35/70, with private bathroom camping fees and meals. For the South Pares, with good views, helpful staff, simple cot- into the area from South Africa for breed-
US$45/90) This atmospheric old farmhouse the CTP is based in Same, 105km south of tages and reasonable hiking prices (guides ing. Other animals include elephants, gi-
is set in rambling grounds about 3km from Moshi on the Arusha–Dar highway. For the cost US$6 per group of up to three people; raffes, zebras and antelopes, although it
the main junction. Rooms are no-frills and North Pares, the CTP is at Usangi, reached village-development fee US$2 per person takes luck and effort to see these. If you’re
spacious, although overpriced. There are via Mwanga along the same highway. per day). Meals are available for TSh2500. in the area and want to get off the beaten
also some tented bandas, plus meals and The Pares can be visited comfortably at There are one or two vehicles daily be- track, Mkomazi can make an interesting
guides for organising walks. Coming from any time of year, except during the March tween Same and Mbaga, with the last one albeit very off-beat safari destination –
Lushoto, take the dirt road branching left to May long rains, when paths become too departing Same by about 2pm (TSh2500, appealing primarily for the chance it of-
at the main Soni junction and follow it for muddy. two to three hours). From Moshi, you’ll fers for wilderness walking, rather than
about 2km. need to get a bus by 8am in order to get to for wildlife watching, which can’t compare
Soni is about halfway along the road be- Same Mbaga the same day. Coming from Dar es with the northern parks.
tween Mombo and Lushoto, and is easy %027 Salaam, you’ll probably need to overnight Reserve entry costs US$20 per day. Visits
to reach via daladala from either destina- Same (sah-may) is the main town in the South in Same. Hiring a vehicle up to Mbaga costs to the black rhino breeding area at Kisima
tion; Maweni Farm provides free pick-ups Pares. There’s little tourist infrastructure, and about TSh40,000 one way; ask at Safari Grill, can be arranged with park staff at Zange
if you’re staying in their rooms. the town is more suitable as a starting point near the Same bus stand. Gate (the main entrance to the reserve,
for excursions into the Pares than as a base. about 5km east of Same). Walking tours are
Mombo The CTP information office is in the Padeco Mwanga the reserve’s main attraction. You’ll need to
%027 Building, diagonally across from the bus Mwanga is about 50km north of Same on the be accompanied by an armed ranger, which
Mombo is the junction town at the foot of stand. If it’s closed, ask at Elephant Motel, Dar es Salaam–Arusha highway. The main can be arranged at reserve headquarters at
the Usambara Mountains where the road or head directly to Hill-Top Tona Lodge, reason to come here is to change vehicles to Zange Gate. For overnighting, there are
to Lushoto branches off the main Dar es where there’s a knowledgeable English- get to Usangi, the starting point for excur- several basic camping grounds (camping US$20),
Salaam–Arusha highway. speaking guide for arranging treks. sions in the northern Pares. For overnight including at Ibaya, about 15km from Zange
Tembo Lodge & Campsite (%264 1539, 0748- accommodation, try the clean but noisy An- Gate. For all, you’ll need to be completely
663205; [email protected]; camping per tent SLEEPING & EATING gela Guesthouse (d TSh8500), about 1km in from self-sufficient. A more upscale develop-
US$4, s/d US$14/18; s) This place, at the foot Elephant Motel (%275 8193; www.elephantmotel.com; the main highway near the new market. ment is planned to open soon.
of the mountains about 15km west of town, s/d TSh15,000/20,000) Same’s most ‘upmarket’ Daladalas between Same and Mbaga can
has camping, rooms, food, a bar and a accommodation, with faded but reasonable Usangi drop you at Zange Gate, from where you
swimming pool, and will come collect you rooms, a cavernous restaurant serving up Usangi, in the hills east of Mwanga, is the can begin a walking safari.
for free from Mombo. It’s about 1km off the good meals, and a TV. It’s on the main high- centre of the north Pares and is the best base
main highway and is signposted.
PARE MOUNTAINS
way about 1km southeast of town.
Amani Lutheran Centre (%275 8107; s/d with shared
bathroom TSh3500/5000) Simple rooms around a
for hiking in this area.
The main point of interest as far as hiking
is concerned is Lomwe Secondary School, which
NORTHERN TANZANIA
The Pare Mountains, northwest of the Usam- quiet compound, and a restaurant. is the CTP base, where you’ll find guides With features including the snowcapped
baras, are also part of the Eastern Arc chain, and accommodation. There’s a camping peaks of Mt Kilimanjaro, the wildlife-
and like the Usambaras they are divided into GETTING THERE & AWAY ground here with water, and the school packed Ngorongoro Crater and the vast
two ranges: north and south. The main tribal Most buses on the Dar es Salaam–Arusha serves as a hostel (camping & dm per person TSh3000) plains of the Serengeti, northern Tanzania
group in this region is the Pare (Asu). highway stop at Same on request. Otherwise, when classes are not in session. Otherwise, embodies what is for many quintessential
TA N Z A N I A
Northen Tanzania
ὈὈὈ
Ὀ
170 N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • M o s h i www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • M o s h i 171
TA N Z A N I A
NORTHERN TANZANIA 0
0
80 km
50 miles
Shanty Town Dispensary (%275 1601, 275 1418; spotless, good-value rooms, rooftop bar and
To To Nairobi
Lema Rd; h9am-5pm Mon & Wed-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat, central location make it a justifiably popular
Lake
ὈὈὈὈ Ὀ
ὈὈ
Musoma (45km) 4-5pm Tue) Head here if you’re ill. choice. Other services include a forex bureau
Va l l ey
Victoria (70km) Bologonya Masai
Springs & Gate Mara NR
Standard Chartered bank (Rindi Lane) ATM. and a restaurant.
To
Ukerewe
Grumeti
GR Lobo Olmesutye TTCL building (cnr Boma & Mawenzi Rds) Local and Honey Badger Cultural Centre (%275 4608, 275
(35km) Bunda Ikorongo Kajido LEGEND
Gru GR Magido
GR Game Reserve international calls; near the clock tower. 3365; [email protected]; camping TSh5000; s/d
meti
Speke River NP National Park TSh20,000/30,000) Enclosed grassy grounds for
ὅ
Wes NR National Reserve
tern
Ri f t
Gulf
Cor
ridor Lake Sights & Activities camping, rooms in a large family house or
Natron KENYA
Seronera Central Moshi is full of activity and at- in a separate block nearby, and meals (about
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
Ὀ
ὅ
Magu
Serengeti
Gelai
(2941m) Namanga
mosphere, and makes an interesting walk, TSh4000) on order. Overlanders and groups
To Mwanza Maswa Oldoinyo
(60km)
Ser
NP Lengai Kerimasi especially the area around the market and are welcome. It’s about 5km from town off
(2878m) (2614m)
en
Pla geti
Olduvai
Gorge Ngorongoro Kitumbeini
Longido Mt Longido
(2629m)
Mawenzi Rd, which has a vaguely Asian fla- the Marangu road; take a Kiboroloni dala-
in
Maswa Lake
Conservation
Area
(2865m)
Engaruka
A104
Mt Kilimanjaro
vour, with a Hindu temple, several mosques dala from the town centre and asked to get
GR Ndutu
Lemagurut
Crater Highlands Monduli NP and many Indian traders. dropped off at the turn-off.
Arusha
(3107m) Ngorongoro Lake
(2660m)
NP Machame Mt Kilimanjaro A dip in the 25m pool (adult/child TSh3000/1500; Golden Shower Restaurant (%275 1990; Taifa Rd;
Ὀ
Oldeani Crater Miwaleni Mt Meru (5896m)
Mwadui
(3188m)
Karatu Mto Wa
Monduli (4566m) Moshi Marangu h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 4.30pm Sun) at the YMCA camping US$3) This inauspiciously named place
ὅ
as i Mang'ola Lake
Mbu
Arusha Himo
(right) is a good way to beat the heat. is conveniently located, with a small, shaded
Ey Taveta
La
ke
a in
s Manyara Makuyuni Kilimanjaro
International To Voi The area outside Moshi is beautiful, and area to pitch your tent, grubby showers and
ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅ
To Shinyanga nt NP Kwa Kuchinja (110km)
u Machame and other towns above Moshi on a restaurant-bar. It’s about 1.5km northeast
E
(45km) o Airport (KIA)
K ide ro M Mwanga
as
Mbulu Lolkisale Nyumba
ya Mungu Kisangara Kilimanjaro’s lower slopes are all linked by of the centre along the Marangu road.
te
Lake Game Controlled
ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅ ὅὅ
Balangida Area Reservoir Chini
easy-to-follow footpaths. Staff at the Coffee Other recommendations:
rn
Par
Dongobesh Tarangire Zange Gate
Lake NP Mkomazi
Shop (p173) can help you find a guide. A&A Hill St Accommodation (%275 3455; sajjad
Ar
A104
e
Giting Ngahari Same
ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅ
ὅὅ ὅὅ
Kitangiri GR
Mt
c
Babati (1570m)
Hanang Mwembe Another option is the Machame Cultural [email protected]; Hill St; s/d/tr TSh7000/10,000/
Pangani
(3417m)
Mo
ou
Lake Tourism Program (%027-275 7033), based in Ky- 12,000) Six clean rooms with fan in a convenient location
ὅὅὅὅ
Gendabi Bereko Babati
un
nt
alia village about 14km north of the main near the bus stand, with an inexpensive restaurant just
t ai
Katesh Maasai Ri
ai
Kolo Rock Mkungunero ve
ns
r Moshi–Arusha highway near Kilimanja- below. There’s no breakfast.
ὅὅὅὅ
Paintings Game Controlled Steppe B1
ns
Kolo Area
Singida
Kondoa To Dodoma To Lushoto (50km); Korogwe (100km); ro’s Machame trailhead. Everything is very Hotel Da Costa (%275 5159; [email protected];
(145km) Tanga (190km); Dar es Salaam (400km)
basic, and you will need to be self-sufficient Mawenzi Rd; s/d with shared bathroom TSh4800/9600)
with food and water; call in advance to be Small, clean rooms, plus a bar and restaurant and a
Africa. The main draw is of course the wild- MOSHI sure someone will be around. Alternatively, convenient central location. Under the same management
life watching, which is among the finest to %027 base yourself out of town at Kilemakyaro or as Kindoroko Hotel.
be found anywhere. Moshi, a bustling town at the foot of Mt Protea Hotel Aishi Machame (p173), both Lutheran Umoja Hostel (%275 0902; [email protected];
Yet there’s much more. Haunting calls of Kilimanjaro, is home of the Chagga peo- of which organise hikes for their guests. cnr Market & Liwali Sts; s/d with shared bathroom
waterbirds fill the air at serene Lake Eyasi; ple and centre of one of Tanzania’s major Makoa Safaris (%0744-312896; www.makoa-farm TSh5000/8000, with private bathroom TSh10,000/12,000)
stately Mt Meru beckons with unforgettable coffee-growing regions. Most visitors use the .com) has horseback riding safaris based out Clean, no-frills rooms around a small courtyard.
sunrise panoramas from its summit; and town as a starting point for climbing Mt Kili- of a farm, which is set amid coffee plant- YMCA (%275 1754; Taifa Rd; s/d with shared bathroom
the barren landscapes of the Crater High- manjaro, although it’s a pleasant place in its ations 16km west of Moshi off the Machame US$10/13; s) Spartan, noisy rooms, some with views
lands offer rugged but satisfying hiking for own right to relax for a couple of days. It also road. Rides (which require a minimum of over Kilimanjaro. It’s north of the clock tower on the
everyone. tends to be less expensive than Arusha. two persons) range from half a day (US$75) roundabout between Kibo and Taifa Rds.
Exploring northern Tanzania is relatively to 11 days (about US$1700 all-inclusive),
easy. The tourist infrastructure is good, with Information with days spent in the bush and nights in a MIDRANGE
plenty of accommodation and dining op- For trekking operators, see p92. rustic farmhouse setting or camping. Lutheran Uhuru Hostel (%275 4084; www.uhuru
tions in many if the major towns. There’s Executive Bureau de Change (Boma Rd) Cash and hostel.org; Sekou Toure Rd; s/d US$16/22, in newer wing
also direct air access from Europe and else- travellers cheques. Sleeping US$35/45, in annexe with shared bathroom US$14/19; i)
where in East Africa via Kilimanjaro Inter- Fahari Cyber Café (Hill St; per hr TSh800; h8.30am- BUDGET This place has spotless good-value rooms in
national Airport (KIA), which is becoming 8pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-8pm Sun) Also does CD burning for Buffalo Hotel (%275 2775; buffalocompany2000@ leafy, expansive grounds – the ones in the
an increasingly important hub. The main digital photos. yahoo.com; New St; r with shared bathroom TSh8000, s/d/ new wing have balconies – and a good res-
caveat is price – the north is Tanzania’s most Immigration Office (Boma Rd; h7.30am-3.30pm tr with private bathroom TSh10,000/15,000/20,000) The taurant. Across the street are some budget
costly region, and for safaris, you’ll need Mon-Fri) long-standing and popular Buffalo Hotel rooms in a rustic annexe with shared fa-
to plan on at least a midrange budget. If Kicheko.com (Mawenzi Rd; per hr TSh1000; h8.30am- has straightforward rooms with fan, net cilities and a kitchen. It’s about 3km north-
you don’t mind roughing things a bit, there 8pm) Internet access. and hot water, and a good restaurant. The west of the town centre on the Arusha road
are some inexpensive alternatives, includ- Kilimani Pharmacy (%275 1100; Hill St; h8am-8pm entrance is on a small street off Mawenzi Rd, (TSh2000 in a taxi).
ing Cultural Tourism Programs (p264), the Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) directly behind Hotel New Castle. Bristol Cottages (%275 5083, 275 2833; briscot@
seldom-visited Mt Hanang, and intriguing NBC (clock tower roundabout) Changes cash and travellers Kindoroko Hotel (%275 4054; kindoroko@yahoo kilionline.com; Rindi Lane; s/d cottage US$54/67, s/d r
rock art. cheques and has an ATM. .com; Mawenzi Rd; s/d from US$15/30; i) Kindoroko’s US$41/54; a) Bristol has spotless, modern
172 N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • M o s h i www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • M o s h i 173
Moshi
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
MOSHI 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
attached cottages – some with air-con and in the surrounding area, and horseback rid-
others with fans – in quiet grounds just next ing nearby.
A B C D to Standard Chartered bank. There are also Makoa Farm (%0744-312896; www.makoa-farm.com;
To Key’s Hotel
INFORMATION SLEEPING (400m)
newer rooms in a two-storey block, and a d US$96-132, day d US$60) This scenic place is
Nkomo Rd
Executive Bureau de Change..............1 C3 A&A Hill St Accommodation............ 15 C5
Fahari Cyber Café..........................(see 15) Bristol Cottages................................16 C4 small restaurant serving snacks, and dinner just down the road from Protea Hotel Aishi
with advance notice. Machame and is in equally beautiful sur-
Rd
1 Immigration Office.............................2 B3 Buffalo Hotel....................................17 C5
Sokoine Rd
Kicheko.com......................................3 C4 Hotel Da Costa.................................18 B5
Uru
Kilimani Pharmacy..............................4 B4 Kilimanjaro Crane Hotel...................19 D3 Key’s Hotel (%275 2250; [email protected] roundings. It’s primarily a base for doing
Kilimanjaro Porter Assistance Kindoroko Hotel...............................20 C5 .tz; Uru Rd; r US$50, air-con plus US$10; as) Key’s, horseback riding safaris (see p171), but also
Project Office............................(see 18) Lutheran Umoja Hostel.....................21 B5
NBC Bank & ATM..............................5 D3 Philip Hotel......................................22 C3
To Golden Shower Restaurant
about 1km northeast of the clock tower on a has a few lovely, rustic guest cottages and
Kilimanjaro
Rd
Standard Chartered Bank & ATM.......6 C4
TTCL..................................................7 C4
YMCA............................................. 23 D2 & Camping (1.5km); Honey
Badger Cultural Centre (5km);
quiet side street, has been popular with trav- rooms where you can arrange a farm stay.
EATING Marangu (40km);
Dar es Salaam (555km)
ellers for years. Rooms in the main building
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Chrisburger......................................24 C3
are spacious and high-ceilinged, and there Eating & Drinking
Pare Ave
Akaro Tours Tanzania........................ 8 D3 Coffee Shop.....................................25 C5
Clock Tower.......................................9 C3 Hill St Food Snacks & Takeaway.....(see 15)
To Kilemakyaro
are discounts for guests who book a Kili- Salzburger Café (% 275 0681; Kenyatta St; meals
Hindu Temple..................................10 C5 Hole in the Wall Supermarket...........26 C5 Rd
Moshi Expeditions & Indotaliano Restaurant.....................27 C5
23
Ma
ra ngu Lodge (7.5km);
Kibosho (12km)
manjaro trek with the hotel. There are also TSh3000-6000; h7am-midnight) The Alps meet
2 Mountaineering........................... 11 D4 Safari Supermarket...........................28 B5 smaller rondavels (circular African build- Africa at this place, which comes complete
Mosque...........................................12 C4 Salzburger Café................................29 B5
Shah Tours.......................................13 C4 ings) for the same price, plus a restaurant with waitresses sporting faux-leopard-skin
Zara Tanzania Adventures................14 C3 and a bar. vests, Austrian bar décor on the walls and a
Kilimanjaro Crane Hotel (%275 1114; www.kiliman selection of good, cheap dishes.
Old Moshi Rd
Sek Catholic
ou
Tou
re R
Cathedral jarocranehotels.com; Kaunda St; s/d US$30/40, d with air- Coffee Shop (%275 2707; Hill St; snacks & meals
Kibo Rd
d
To Lutheran Uhuru Hostel (700m);
con US$60; a) Good-value rooms, with fans, from TSh1000; h 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 4.30pm Sat)
Shanty Town Dispensary (1.5km);
Impala Hotel (1.5km); Taifa
Rd
Rin
nets, TV and large beds. Downstairs is a Good coffee, plus a delectable assortment of
di L
Ho n restaurant. It’s on a small side street running homemade breads, cakes, yogurt, breakfast
ro 8
mb
oR parallel to and just east of Old Moshi Rd. and light meals. Proceeds go to a church
3 d
To Umbwe (14km);
Makoa Farm (15km);
37 Other recommendations: project.
Re
Protea Hotel Aishi Machame (16km);
Kyalia (21km); 2
22
14
ng
ua 24 38 Philip Hotel (%275 4746/8; [email protected]; Indotaliano Restaurant (%275 2195; New St; meals
St
Rd 5
Machame (26km); Boma Rd 32 cnr Rindi Lane & Horombo Rd; s/d US$30/40) A central about TSh3000; h10am-11pm) This homy restau-
da
KIA Lodge (45km);
un
1 43 19
Kilimanjaro International Airport (45km);
location, but the twin-bedded rooms with TV, fan and net rant, opposite Buffalo Hotel, has chequered
Ka
Arusha (80km) 39
9 35
n
are soulless. tablecloths and a good mix of Indian and
di L
Rin
Aga Khan
Rd
6
16
7 36 KIA Lodge (%255 4194; www.kialodge.com, s/d Italian cuisine.
13 US$100/136; s) This is located at Kilimanjaro airport. Also recommended:
3 11 The thatched, upmarket bungalows make an agreeable Hill Street Food Snacks & Take Away (Hill St) Cheap
spot to relax if you have a night flight or early arrival; day plates of local fast food.
4 34 12 rooms are available. Chrisburger (%275 0419; Kibo Rd; h8am-5pm Mon-
40
42 Fri, 8am-2pm Sat) Good burgers and snacks.
d
Pub Alberto (h6pm until dawn Tue-Sun) Next door to
iR
Train Station TOP END
nz
Hil (Closed)
Arus
we
l St
Impala Hotel (%275 3443/4; [email protected]; Lema Chrisburger; Moshi’s most popular bar.
Ma
4
ha R
Rd; s/d US$72/83; s) Central Moshi’s only up- Hole in the Wall Supermarket (Solanki’s; New St) For
St
41
market option offers well-appointed rooms self-caterers.
a
att
St
29
25 30
wa
ny
10
in prim and tranquil grounds, plus a good Safari Supermarket (Riadha St) Ditto.
Ke
15
wa
t
sS
Ka
restaurant. It’s about 4km from the clock
lou
St
Se
et
tower roundabout in Shantytown. Shopping
ark
Ch
ag Ma DRINKING
M
5 ga
St
kin
ga
St Pub Alberto....................................(see 24) Kilemakyaro Lodge (%275 4925; www.kilimanjaro Some places to try for crafts:
33
17 27 SHOPPING
safari.com; s/d US$65/110) Rooms here – in en suite Our Heritage (Hill St) A good selection of
St
Liw 20 stone rondavels with TV – are fine, though carvings and other crafts.
St
26 Our Heritage....................................30 C5
w
ali
Ne
alla
St Market
Shah Industries.................................31 C6
Ch
ag undistinguished, but the beautiful hilltop Shah Industries Just south of town over
Gh
ga
21 18 St
28 TRANSPORT setting with views of Kilimanjaro in the the railway tracks; it also offers tours of its
Ria Air Tanzania.....................................32 C3
Liw
dh
aS Akamba Bus Office.......................... 33 C5
distance compensates. It’s about 6km from leather workshop.
t
ali
St Central Bus Station...........................34 C4 town off the Kibosho road (TSh6000 in a
Dar Express Bus Office.....................35 D3
Davanu Shuttle................................36 C4 taxi). Getting There & Away
Impala Shuttle..................................37 C3 Protea Hotel Aishi Machame (%275 6948, 275 AIR
6 Precision Air.....................................38 D3
Riverside Shuttle...............................39 C3 6941; [email protected]; s/d US$115/145; s) Almost all flights to Moshi land at Kili-
31
Royal Coach Bus Office....................40 C4 The Aishi Machame is the classiest hotel manjaro International Airport (KIA), about
Scandinavian Express Bus Office......41 C5
Taxi Stand........................................42 C4 in the area, with beautiful, lush surround- 50km west of town off the main highway.
To Moshi
Airport (3km)
Taxi Stand........................................43 C3 ings just below Kilimanjaro’s Machame There’s also the small Moshi airport about
trailhead, well-appointed rooms, walking 3km southwest of the town centre along the
TA N Z A N I A 174 N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • M a r a n g u www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • T re k k i n g o n M t K i l i m a n j a r o 175
TA N Z A N I A
extension of Market St, which handles occa- straight over and look for a driver there, Hut (about two hours up, one hour down; rooms that are OK but don’t quite seem
sional charters. There are daily flights con- rather than getting caught in the fray by the US$60 per person for park fees, plus US$10 worth the price, and a restaurant. It’s about
necting KIA with Dar es Salaam (US$130), bus door. Even if your hotel is close enough per guide, arranged at the park gate). 3km north of the main junction.
Zanzibar (US$135) and Entebbe on Air to walk, it’s worth paying the TSh1000 for At the main junction, behind the post of- Banana Jungle Lodge (%275 6565, 0744-270947;
Tanzania (%275 5205; Rengua Rd), which has a taxi, just to get away from the station. fice is the Marangu Internet Café (per hr TSh2000; www.yellowpages.co.tz/jungle/index.htm; camping US$5,
an office near the clock tower. Precision Air When leaving Moshi, go to the station the h8am-6pm). s/d US$20/40) Banana Jungle is a private home,
(%275 3495; Old Moshi Rd) has daily flights con- day before without your luggage and book where you can sleep in modernised ‘Chagga
necting KIA with Dar es Salaam, Mwanza your ticket, so that the next morning you Sleeping & Eating huts’, eat local food (meals US$4 to US$6)
(via Shinyanga, US$140 to Mwanza) and can just arrive and board. BUDGET and arrange cultural walks in the area. It’s
Nairobi (US$209). Bus offices include the following: Coffee Tree Campsite (%275 6513, 275 6604; kiliman set amid pleasant gardens about 4km east
Akamba (%275 3908; cnr New & Makinga Sts) Just [email protected]; camping US$8, per person per day of Marangu, more or less en route to the
BUS around the corner from Buffalo Hotel. fireplace use fee TSh500, rondavel per person US$10, chalet Rongai route trailhead. Head right at the
Buses and minibuses run throughout the Dar Express (Old Moshi Rd) Opposite KCNU Hotel, off the per person US$12) Prices are high for camping, main junction, go about 2km to the Mamba
day to Arusha (TSh1000, one to 1½ hours) clock tower roundabout. but the grounds are green and well main- Lutheran church, stay left at the fork, and
and Marangu (TSh700, one hour). Royal Coach (cnr Aga Khan Rd & Kaunda St) Opposite the tained, and there are hot-water showers, continue another 2.5km.
To Dar es Salaam, the best lines are bus stand and just down from the mosque. tents for hire, and a few four- to six-person
Royal Coach (TSh17,000) departing Moshi Scandinavian Express (%275 1387; Mawenzi Rd) rondavels and chalets. It’s about 700m east Getting There & Away
at 10.15am, and Scandinavian Express, de- South of the bus stand, opposite the Hindu temple. of the main road down a steep hill and sign- Minibuses run throughout the day between
parting at 8.30am (TSh17,000), at 10am posted near Capricorn Hotel. Marangu and Moshi (TSh800). In Marangu
(TSh15,000 for ordinary bus and TSh24,000 Getting Around Babylon Lodge (%275 1315; www.babylonlodge.com; they drop you at the main junction. From
for luxury bus) and at 1pm (TSh24,000). All TO/FROM THE AIRPORT camping US$5, s/d/tr US$25/40/60) The Babylon – a here, there are sporadic pick-ups to the park
start in Arusha, except the 1pm Scandina- Air Tanzania and Precision Air have trans- budget hotel at heart, masquerading behind gate (TSh300). Otherwise, you’ll need to
vian bus, which comes from Nairobi and port to/from KIA for most of their flights, midrange prices – has a row of small, no-frills walk (5km).
is often fully booked. If you’re trying to get departing from their offices two hours before rooms clustered around a small enclosed
to Dar es Salaam in time for the afternoon flight time (TSh2000). Riverside and Impala green area about 700m east of the main TREKKING ON MT KILIMANJARO
ferry to Zanzibar, Dar Express has a bus have a shuttle to/from KIA (US$10), depart- junction. At 5896m, Mt Kilimanjaro is the highest
departing Moshi at 6.30am (TSh12,000) that ing from their Moshi offices at 6pm daily Bismarck Hut Lodge (%0744-318338; r per person peak in Africa and one of the continent’s
usually arrives in time, as well as later depar- and coordinated with KLM flight departures. with shared bathroom US$10) This is one of the few most magnificent sights. From cultivated
tures at 7.30am (TSh14,000) and 9am. They also wait to meet arriving passengers shoestring places in Marangu, but rooms are farmlands on the lower levels, the mountain
To Nairobi (TSh8000 to TSh17,000) and on KLM. quite run-down these days. It’s along the rises through lush rainforest, alpine mead-
Mwanza (TSh22,000 to TSh32,000), the best road to the park gate, shortly before the turn- ows and a barren lunar landscape to the
lines are Scandinavian and Akamba, both TAXI & DALADALA off to Capricorn Hotel. twin summits of Kibo and Mawenzi.
of which go daily, and should be booked There are taxi stands near the clock tower, A trek up ‘Kili’ lures hundreds of trekkers
in advance. The other option to Nairobi is and at the bus station. Daladalas depart from MIDRANGE each year, and is even more attractive be-
one of the shuttle buses, though you’ll need the bus station. Marangu Hotel (%275 6591/4; www.maranguhotel.com; cause, with the right preparation, you can
to wait an hour in Arusha in transit; see camping with hot showers US$3, s/d half board US$70/100; walk all the way to the summit without the
p257. Davanu shuttle (cnr Old Moshi & Mawenzi Rds) MARANGU s) This long-standing place is the first hotel need of ropes or technical climbing experi-
is in Kahawa House near the clock tower %027 you reach coming from Moshi, with expan- ence. Yet the climb is a serious (as well as ex-
roundabout; Riverside shuttle (Boma Rd) is just Marangu is a small town on the slopes of sive grounds and inviting rooms. Accommo- pensive) undertaking, and only worth doing
opposite, in the THB building, and Impala Mt Kilimanjaro about 40km northeast of dation discounts are available if you join one with the right preparation. For more details
shuttle (%275 1786; Kibo Rd) is just north of the Moshi, and is a convenient overnight stop of the hotel’s fully equipped climbs. about trekking on the mountain, check out
clock tower. Departures from Moshi are at if you’re trekking on the Marangu route. It’s Kibo Hotel (% 275 1308; www.kibohotel.com; Lonely Planet’s Trekking in East Africa.
6.30am and 11.30am. also a pleasant place in its own right, with an camping US$5, s/d US$32/52) The rustic Kibo has
Except for the lines listed following, all agreeable highland atmosphere, cool, leafy wooden flooring, large old-fashioned win- Information
transport leaves from the main bus station surroundings and some hiking possibilities dows, spacious rooms and a restaurant. It’s Park entry fees are US$60/10 per adult/child
in the town centre between Market St and on the mountain’s lower slopes. about 1.5km west of the main junction. per day, and must be paid in US dollars, cash
Mawenzi Rd. The station is chaotic and full Nakara Hotel (%275 6571; www.nakara-hotels or travellers cheques. Huts (Marangu route)
of touts and disreputable types wanting to Information .com; r per person US$50) A reliable midrange es- cost US$50 per person per night, and there
take advantage of new arrivals, and it can be Most Marangu hotels organise Kilimanjaro tablishment with reasonable rooms and a is a US$20 rescue fee per person per trip
quite intimidating getting off the bus (which treks, and can also help you find guides for restaurant. It’s just off the main road, and for treks on the mountain. Camping costs
is a good reason to take Scandinavian or one shorter cultural walks to experience local is signposted near Capricorn Hotel. US$50 per person per night on the Marangu
of the other lines that let you disembark at Chagga life and see nearby waterfalls (about Capricorn Hotel (%275 1309; s/d US$85/120) The route, and US$40 per person per night for all
their offices). To minimise hassles, watch US$15 per person per day, with lunch). You Capricorn is probably the most upmarket other camping. Guide and porter fees (but
for the area of the station where the taxis can do a day hike in Kilimanjaro National of the Marangu hotels, at least on the sur- not tips) are handled directly by the trekking
are gathered before disembarking and head Park from Marangu Gate as far as Mandara face, with a slightly pretentious feel, spacious companies.
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὄὄ
ὄ
176 N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • T re k k i n g o n M t K i l i m a n j a r o www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • T re k k i n g o n M t K i l i m a n j a r o 177
Kilimanjaro Area
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
Kilimanjaro National Park Headquarters (%275 COSTS KILIMANJARO AREA 0
0
20 km
12 miles
6605/2) is located at the park gate (h8am-6pm) Standard five-day four-night treks up the
Eastern
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὄὄ
ὄ
in Marangu. Marangu route start at about US$750 in- Icefields 0
0
4 km
2 miles
It’s not permitted to climb Kilimanjaro cluding park fees. For budget treks of six
4800
440
Kibo
5200
1:200,000
560
independently, and you’ll need a guide and to seven days on the Machame route ex- Ash
0
Pit Contour Interval 400 metres
0
School Hut
at least one porter (for the guide). See p92 pect to pay from around US$800. Better- Uhuru
Gillman's Hans (4750m)
Meyer
Point
for trekking company listings. Most trekking quality trips on the Marangu/Machame Peak (5680m) Cave h
T
(5896m) (5182m) e
Sa
companies allow two to three porters per routes start at about US$950. The Umbwe d d le
Mawenzi
trekker depending on the length of the trek. route is often sold by budget operators for Kibo
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Stella Ma
Hut rang
Weather conditions on the mountain about the same price as Marangu, and billed Point
Western
(4700m) u Hans Meyer Peak
(5149m)
Ro
are frequently very cold and wet, no matter as a quick and comparatively inexpensive Breach
ut
Jiwe Mawenzi
e
La Ukoyo Hut
what the time of year it is, so waterproof way to reach the top. Don’t fall for this – the Barafu (4394m) (4400m)
Hut 4400
your gear and bring a full range of water- route should only be done by experienced
proof cold-weather clothing and equip- trekkers, and should have an extra day for Last Water Last Water
0
ment. While you can hire sleeping bags and acclimatisation built in. Point Point 400
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Zebra
some cold-weather gear at the Marangu Whatever you pay for your trek, remem- Rock
park gate, quality and availability can’t be ber that US$520 goes to park fees for a five- Horombo Hut 3600
counted on. day Marangu route climb, more for longer (3700m)
To Namanga (85km);
treks. If you cut things too close, expect Marangu
Rou
te
Nairobi (236km)
ROUTES barely adequate meals, mediocre guides and KENYA
3200
There are at least 10 trekking routes that problems with hut bookings and park fees. Mweka Hut
(3100m)
ὈὈὈ
begin on the lower slopes, but only three
continue to the summit. You’ll need to camp GUIDES & PORTERS To Tsavo
(99km)
on all except the Marangu route, which has Guides and at least one porter (for the guide)
a series of three ‘huts’ (bunkhouses) spaced are compulsory and are provided by the
a day’s walk apart. (You can also camp on trekking company. Guides are required to Mt Kilimanjaro
Loitokitok
the Marangu route, but still need to pay the be registered with the national park authori- Pla
National Park Rongai
ira tea e
hut fees.) ties, and should have permits showing this, Sh ut
ὈὈ ὈὈὈ
u
Western Ro
The Marangu route, which is the most though ‘sharing’ of permits among guides Breach
Ro
ai
Londorosi
ng
ute
Mt Kilimanjaro
Village
Ro
popular, is usually sold as a five-day, four- working for some of the less reputable com- Londorosi Shira Peak Site of Arrow See Enlargement
Glacier Hut
night return package, although at least one panies is fairly common. Porters will carry Gate (3962m)
(4800m)
Kibo
Uhuru Peak
extra night is highly recommended to help bags weighing up to 15kg (not including Shira Hut (5896m)
(3840m)
acclimatisation. Other routes usually take their own food and clothing); your bags will Barranco
Hut
Hans Meyer
Peak (5149m)
six or seven days. The increasingly popular be weighed before you set off.
ute
(3950m)
ὈὈ Ro
Ma Maundi Crater
te
and challenging Machame route has a gradual Most guides and porters receive only min- ran
Rou
Sanya gu
Machame
Route
Juu
ascent before approaching the summit. The imal wages from the trekking companies, Mandara
e
Umbw
Hut (2700m)
Route
Umbwe route is much steeper, with a more di- and depend on tips as their major source See Arusha Machame
a
National Park Gate
Mwek
rect way to the summit. The top, very steep of income. As a guideline, plan on tipping Map (p189)
Kilimanjaro National
section (up the Western Breach) is often about 10% of the total amount you’ve paid Machame
Village Mweka
Park Headquarters &
Marangu Gate (1980m)
covered in ice or snow, and the route should for the trek, divided among the guides and Arusha Kyalia Umbwe
Village
Village
Marangu
National Park Village
only be considered if you are experienced porters. For the Marangu route, tips are Village Lake
Chala
and properly equipped, and going with a commonly from US$40 to US$60 for the To
Usa River (3km);
Moshi
reputable operator. Also beware of operators guide, and US$15 each for the porters. Plan Arusha (23km) Sanya
who try to sell a ‘short’ or ‘economy’ version on more for the longer routes, or if the guide Taveta
of the Machame route, which switches near and porters have been particularly good. Kilimanjaro
International
To Dar es
Salaam (530km)
Himo
To Voi (110km);
Airport (KIA)
the top to the final section of the Umbwe Mombasa (250km)
route and summits via the Western Breach. Marangu Route
Other possibilities include the Rongai route STAGE 1: MARANGU GATE TO STAGE 2: MANDARA HUT TO Hut (3700m), a good place to spend an extra
and the attractive Shira Plateau route (or Lon- MANDARA HUT HOROMBO HUT acclimatisation night.
dorosi route). (7km, 4-5hr, 700m ascent) (11km, 5-7hr, 1000m ascent)
Trekkers on the Machame, Umbwe and The path begins at 1980m and ascends Two roughly parallel paths run through STAGE 3: HOROMBO HUT TO KIBO HUT
Shira Plateau routes descend via the Mweka through a section of forest. From Mandara the forest and then a zone of giant heather, (10 km, 5-7hr, 1000m ascent)
route. Treks on the Rongai route use the Hut (2700m) you can visit nearby Maundi meeting near the start of open moorland. The path divides after Horombo, with the
Marangu route for descent. The Marangu Crater (two hours return) for good views to The terrain is undulating and steep in places, more popular one to the west. After pass-
route is briefly described later. the main peaks of Kibo and Mawenzi. but the paths are easy to follow to Horombo ing the landmark Last Water Point and
TA N Z A N I A 178 N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • A r u s h a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • A r u s h a 179
TA N Z A N I A
town maps are available free from the TTB Moona’s Pharmacy (%250 9800, 0741-510590;
SERIOUS BUSINESS Tourist Information Centre. Sokoine Rd; h8.45am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)
Whatever route you choose, remember that climbing Kilimanjaro is a serious undertaking. While
many hundreds of trekkers reach Uhuru Peak without major difficulty, many more don’t make it Information MONEY
because they ascend too quickly and suffer from altitude sickness. And every year a few trekkers IMMIGRATION OFFICE Impala Hotel (%250 2398, 250 8448/51; www.impala
die on the mountain. Come prepared with appropriate footwear and clothing, and most impor- Immigration Office (h7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri; hotel.com; cnr Moshi & Old Moshi Rds; h8am-midnight)
tantly, allow yourself enough time. If you’re interested in reaching the top, seriously consider Simeon Rd) Cash shillings and dollars on credit cards at poor rates.
adding at least one extra day onto the ‘standard’ climb itinerary, no matter which route you Kibo Palace Bureau de Change (Joel Maeda St;
do. Although paying an additional US$150 or so per extra day may seem like a lot when you’re INTERNET ACCESS h8am-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun)
planning your trip, it will seem a relatively insignificant saving later on if you’ve gone to the Impala Hotel (%250 2398, 250 8448/51; www.impala Rickshaw Travels (%250 6655; reservation2@
expense and effort to start a trek and then need to come down without having reached the hotel.com; cnr Moshi & Old Moshi Rds; per hr TSh5000; rickshaw.africaonline.co.tz; Sokoine Rd) The Amex repre-
top. And don’t feel badly about insisting on an extra day with the trekking companies: standard h8am-11pm) sentative, but doesn’t issue travellers cheques.
medical advice is to increase sleeping altitude by only 300m per day once above 3000m – which KamNet (per hr TSh1000; h8am-7pm) Just off Boma
is about one-third of the daily altitude gains above 3000m on the standard Kilimanjaro climb Rd, opposite Coastal Aviation. There are several ATMs:
routes offered by most operators. Another perspective on it all: Uhuru Peak is several hundred New Safari Hotel (%250 3261; www.newsafarihotel Barclays (Sopa Lodges Bldg, Serengeti Rd) Visa and
metres higher than Everest Base Camp in the Nepal Himalaya, which trekkers often take at least .co.tz; Boma Rd; per hr TSh1000; h24hr) MasterCard.
two weeks to reach from Kathmandu. Patisserie (Sokoine Rd; per hr TSh1000; h7.30am- NBC (Sokoine Rd) Visa; also changes travellers cheques.
7.30pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-2pm Sun) Standard Chartered (Goliondoi Rd) Takes Visa.
crossing the Saddle, it joins with the steeper ARUSHA MEDICAL SERVICES & EMERGENCIES TELEPHONE
and rougher eastern path at Jiwe La Ukoyo %027 Accident Air Rescue (AAR; %250 8020; Haile Selassie TTCL (Boma Rd; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-8pm Sun
(pointed rocks), from where it’s one to 1½ Arusha is one of Tanzania’s most developed Rd, Plot 54) Just off Old Moshi Rd; lab tests and a doctor & holidays) Domestic and international calls, and card
hours to Kibo Hut (4700m). and fastest-growing towns. It was headquar- on call 24 hours. phones.
Kibo Hut is more basic than Horombo ters of the East African Community when
and Mandara, and lacks a reliable supply of Tanzania, Kenya and Uganda were members
water (which must be carried from Horombo of this economic and customs union. Today, FAIR PLAY
or one of the Last Water Points). it’s the seat of the Tripartite Commission Kilimanjaro guides and porters have a reputation for being aggressive and demanding when it
for East African Cooperation – a revived comes to tips, and higher tips are expected here than elsewhere in the region. Yet there’s another
STAGE 4: KIBO HUT TO UHURU PEAK & attempt at regional collaboration – and the side, too, with porter abuse and exploitation becoming a serious concern.
DESCENT TO HOROMBO HUT site of the Rwanda genocide tribunal. Most of the porters who work on Kilimanjaro are local residents who work freelance, usually
(4km, 7-8½hr, 1200m ascent; plus 14km, 4½-7hr, 2200m Arusha is also the gateway to Serengeti, with no guarantees of a salary beyond the present job. The work is hard, rates are low and it’s
descent) Lake Manyara, Tarangire and Arusha Na- safe to say that even the best-paid porters earn only a pittance in comparison with the salaries
From Kibo Hut the path zigzags up a scree tional Parks, and to the Ngorongoro Conser- of many of the trekkers whose bags they are carrying. Due to stiff job competition, it’s common
slope to Hans Meyer Cave (5182m), where it vation Area. As such, it’s the safari capital of for porters to agree to back-to-back treks without sufficient rest in between. It’s also common for
becomes steeper and decidedly a slog. From Tanzania and a major tourism centre. porters to work without proper shoes or equipment, and without adequate protection at night
Gillman’s Point (5680m), with spectacular The town sits in lush countryside at about from the mountain’s often cold and wet conditions. (This said, it’s common practice among some
views, it’s another two to 2½ hours along the 1300m in altitude at the foot of Mt Meru, of the more enterprising porters to take good-quality clothing and equipment that they have
edge of the crater rim to Uhuru Peak, Africa’s and enjoys a temperate climate throughout been given by clients at the end of a trek, sell it and then continue climbing the mountain in
highest point. It’s usual to start this stage – the year. Surrounding it are many coffee, threadbare clothing.) Equally concerning are cases where unscrupulous guides bribe the rangers
the most strenuous – just after midnight so wheat and maize estates tended by the Aru- who weigh porters’ loads, so that the porter is faced with the choice of carrying an overly heavy
as to see the sunrise from the crater rim, and sha and Meru people. load or not getting the job at all.
because the scree slope up to Gillman’s Point Porters depend on tourism on the mountain for their livelihood, but as a trekker you can help
and the snow on the path to Uhuru Peak will Orientation ensure that they aren’t exploited and that working conditions are fair. When selecting a trekking
still be frozen, making the walking safer. Arusha is divided into two sections by the operator, tell them this is a concern. Be aware of what goes on around you during your trek,
The return from Uhuru to Gillman’s takes small Naura River valley. To the east of and if you see exploitative treatment, tell the tour operator when you get back. Also get in touch
about one to 1½ hours, and it’s another easy the valley are most hotels, the post office, with the UK-based Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk), which has mounted a worldwide
two hours from there to Kibo Hut. From immigration, government buildings, safari campaign to improve conditions for porters. Another good contact is the International Moun-
Kibo to Horombo is two to three hours. companies, airline offices and craft shops. tain Explorers Connection (IMEC; www.mountainexplorers.org), which runs the Kilimanjaro Porter
To the west are the commercial and indus- Assistance Project ([email protected]), a nonprofit group that channels trekking clothing
STAGE 5: HOROMBO HUT TO MARANGU trial areas, the market, some budget hotels donations to porters, arranges informal English language training opportunities and lobbies local
GATE and the bus stations. tour operators to establish a code of conduct on porter pay and conditions. See their guidelines
(18km, 5-7hr, 1900m descent) at www.hec.org/club/properporter.htm#guidelines, or visit their office (Mawenzi Rd) next to Hotel
The final day retraces the route to Marangu MAPS Da Costa in Moshi. Both they, as well as Tourism Concern, keep lists of trek operators who
gate, with Mandara Hut at about the half- MaCo puts out a good, widely available promote fair treatment of their staff.
way point. map of Arusha (TSh5000). Old photocopied
180 N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • A r u s h a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • A r u s h a 181
Arusha Arusha
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
0 400 m
ARUSHA 0 0.2 miles
TOURIST INFORMATION
There are travellers bulletin boards at the Pa-
A B C D E F
ὈὈ
To Ilkidin'ga
(7km)
tisserie (p184) and the Tourist Information
To Ngaramtoni (12km);
Longido (80km);
34 Centre, which are also good spots to look for
Namanga (100km);
Nairobi (260km) safari companions.
1 Arusha-Moshi Rd
To Moivaro Coffee Plantation (6km);
Kigongoni (8km); Tengeru (10km);
1 Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority (NCAA)
Lake Duluti (12km);
Mulala (30km);
Some Minor Roads Information Office (%254 4625; www.ngornogoro
Not Depicted
Arusha National Park (35km);
Mkuru (45km);
-crater-africa.org; Boma Rd; h8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-
KIA (50km); Fri, to 1pm Sat) Just down from the TTB tourist office.
ὈὈ
ὈὈ ὈὈ
Moshi (80km)
Tanzania National Parks Headquarters (Tanapa;
70
%250 3471, 250 4082, 250 8216; www.tanzaniaparks
Rd
3
Makongoro .com) About 5km west of town along the Dodoma road.
n
er
eo
Rd
Riv
Sim
37 32 Tanzania Tourist Board (TTB) Tourist Information
Centre (%250 3843; [email protected]; Boma Rd;
ura
36
r
Colonel Middleton Rd
ve
42 68
2 2
Levolosi Rd
h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm Sat) Just up from
Ri
Na
24 65 71
ὈὈὈὈ
Ethiopia Rd i
the post office; it has information on Arusha, the northern
n Rd
Catholic
do
62
15 Church
lion
Stadium Rd 39
parks and local Cultural Tourism Programs. There are also
eo
St
Go 41
Sim
Stadium
ia
64
copies of a ‘blacklist’ of tour operators as well as a list of
Ind
d
Mosque
aR
16 Uhuru
r
66
ve
St
m
Ri
19
Monument 29 registered tour companies.
Bo
Makongoro Rd
Rd
See Enlargement 18 47 48
23 13 14
oi
i
28
em
Pangani St
27 Mosque
Makua St
nd
Seth Benjamin Rd
60
Lindi St
9
Wachagga St
Jo
Zaramo St
10
Kikuyu St
Th
lio
35
Azimo St
Lutheran Ma el 5
20 57 4 TRAVEL AGENCIES
Go
49 30 Golf Church ed 59
aS 6
ὈὈὈὈ
Bondeni St
Course
43 t
For listings of safari and trekking operators,
Swahili St
12 61
58 53
Somali Rd
Rd
25
26 38 see p92.
Wapare St
isa
Kituoni Rd
69 Market 17
3 O 3 Coastal Aviation (%250 0087; Boma Rd) For northern
Kan
d
ine R 51 ld
Mosque
55 Soko 72 M
os
50 and southern circuit itineraries, Zanzibar and flight charters.
d
44
Rd
hi
ie R
63 67 Anglican Sports Rd
ol
11 Sokoine Rd
Church Grounds Rickshaw Travels (%250 6655; reservation2@rickshaw
ho
lass
8
Jacaranda St
Sc
7
e Se
To Shoprite & TFA Centre (1km);
Kilombero Bus Station (1km); .africaonline.co.tz; Sokoine Rd) For domestic and inter-
Hail
Regional Air (4km); Tanapa (5km); 1 0 200 m
Arusha Airport (8km); 0 0.1 miles national flight bookings.
Meserani Snake Park (25km);
Rd
Monduli (40km); Babati (175km);
ol
ho
Kolo (275km); Dodoma (470km);
Train 46 73
Dangers & Annoyances
Sc
Northern Parks
Station 52
Rd
Ol
(Closed) dM Arusha is the worst place in Tanzania for
shi
os 33
Mo
hi
INFORMATION Hotel Fort de Moines..................30 B3 Rd street touts and slick tour operators who
4 Accident Air Rescue..................... 1 D3 Hotel Pallsons..........................(see 63) 4
Barclays & ATM........................... 2 D4 Impala Hotel..............................31 D4 22
56
31 prey on the gullibility of newly arrived trav-
Immigration Office.......................3
KamNet........................................4
F2
F3
Kitunda Guesthouse...................32 B2
Le Jacaranda..............................33 D4 d 2
21 ellers by offering them safaris and treks at
aR
ir
ridiculously low prices. Their main haunts
Rd
Kibo Palace Bureau de Change.....5 E3 L'Oasis Lodge.............................34 E1 Eng d 45
ti R
ill
ge
Njiro H
Main Post Office..........................6 F3 Lutheran Centre.........................35 F3 include along Boma and Goliondoi Rds, at
40 ren
Moona's Pharmacy......................7 B3 Minja's Guesthouse....................36 B2 Se To Kijenge
NBC & ATM.................................8 B3 Monjes Guesthouse....................37 B2 Flame
Tree
the bus station and near the budget hotels
NCAA Information Office.............9 F3 New Arusha Hotel......................38 F3 54
Police Station.............................10 C3 New Safari Hotel........................39 F2
(1.3km) at the northern and western ends of town. If
Rickshaw Travels........................11 A3 Outpost..................................... 40 D4 SHOPPING you’re booking on arrival, be sure that any
Standard Chartered & ATM........12 E3 Vision Campsite..........................41 F2 Aminata Boutique........................(see 25)
TTB Tourist Information Centre..13 F3 William's Inn..............................42 A2 Craft Dealers..................................57 F3
tour company you sign up with is properly
TTCL..........................................14 F3 registered; get recommendations from other
5 EATING TRANSPORT 5
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Big Bite.......................................43 B3 Air Excel.........................................58 F3
To Masai Camp &
Tropical Trails (1km);
travellers, and check the current ‘blacklist’
AICC Building............................ 15 C2 Dolly's Patisserie.........................44 B3 Air Tanzania...................................59 F3 Karama Lodge (1.5km) at the TTB Tourist Information Centre on
Arusha Declaration Museum......16 B2 Dragon Pearl..............................45 E4 Arusha Naaz Rent-a-Car..............(see 25)
Clock Tower...............................17 F3 Everest Chinese Restaurant & Central Bus Station & Taxi Stand....60 A3 Boma Rd.
East African Safari & Touring Co..18
Hoopoe Safaris...........................19
E3
F2
Inn.........................................46 D4
Geekay's Take-Away..................47 F3
Coastal Aviation.............................61 F3
Dar Express Bus Office...................62 A2
At night, take a taxi if you go out. It’s not
Natural History Museum & Jambo Coffee House..................48 F3 Davanu Shuttle..............................63 A3 safe to walk, especially over the bridge on
Boma.....................................20
Nature Beauties..........................21
C3
E4
Khan's........................................49 B3
Lounge....................................(see 34)
Ethiopian Airlines..........................(see 64)
Impala Shuttle..............................(see 31)
Old Moshi Rd near the clock tower, and in
Roy Safaris................................. 22 D4 McMoody's...............................50 A3 KLM...............................................64 F2 the area between the Mt Meru Hotel and
Safari Makers.............................23 F3 Patisserie....................................51 E3 Mt Meru Hotel...............................65 E2
Sunny Safaris.............................24 A2 Spices & Herbs...........................52 E4 Precision Air....................................66 F2
the Arusha International Conference Cen-
Steers.........................................53 F3 Riverside Shuttle.............................67 B3 tre (AICC) building.
6 SLEEPING Via Via.....................................(see 20) Royal Coach Bus Office..................68 A2 6
Arusha Naaz Hotel.....................25 E3 Scandinavian Express Bus Office....69 A3
Centre House Hostel.................. 26 D3 DRINKING Taxi Stand......................................70 E2 Sights & Activities
Flamingo....................................27 B3 Colobus Club..............................54 E5 Taxi Stand......................................71 F2
Hotel 7-11.................................28 A3 Crystal Club...............................55 B3 Taxi Stand......................................72 F3 The Arusha Declaration Museum (%250 7800; Ma-
Hotel Equator.............................29 F2 Greek Club................................ 56 D4 ZanAir............................................73 E4 kongoro Rd; adult/student US$2/1; h9am-6pm) has a
display on postcolonial Tanzanian history,
TA N Z A N I A 182 N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • A r u s h a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • A r u s h a 183
TA N Z A N I A
while the Natural History Museum (%250 7540; the clock tower roundabout, has a few dorm Hotel 7-11 (%250 1261; Zaramo St; s/d US$25/30) renovated and recently reopened, this hotel
Boma Rd; adult/student US$2/1; h9.30am-5.30pm), in rooms in an old two-storey house, small en At the central bus station (look for the white has spiffy rooms in a central location, a res-
the old German boma (government ad- suite garden bungalows and a restaurant. multistorey building directly opposite), with taurant, secure parking and 24-hour Internet
ministrative office or fort), has a few fos- Arusha Naaz Hotel (%257 2087; arushanaaz@ clean, noisy rooms. The doubles are decent access.
sils. Other diversions include the markets at yahoo.com; Sokoine Rd; s/d/tr US$30/45/60; i) Naaz’s value. Hotel Equator (%250 8409, 250 3727; reservations@
Ngaramtoni (Thursday and Sunday), about atmosphere is uninspiring, but the location newarusha.com; Boma Rd; s/d US$60/70; a) Also re-
12km north of town off the Nairobi road, is convenient and the rooms – all with TV, Camping cently renovated, though not to the same
and at Tengeru (Saturday), about 10km east fan and hot water – are spotless. Down- Masai Camp (%250 0358; www.masaicamp.com; camp- standards as the New Safari Hotel. The
of town on the Moshi road; and the swim- stairs is a self-service snack bar for break- ing US$3, banda per person with shared bathroom US$5, r per rooms with garden views are much nicer.
ming pool at the Impala Hotel. fast and lunch, and the hotel hires out safari person with shared bathroom US$7; i) Masai Camp
It’s possible to observe the proceedings of vehicles. is a long-time favourite, and is popular with TOP END
the United Nations International Criminal overlanders, with hot showers, pool tables, Impala Hotel (%250 2398, 250 8448/51; www.impala
Tribunal for Rwanda at the AICC building, Guesthouses & Hotels – Colonel Middleton satellite TV, a restaurant featuring pizzas, hotel.com; cnr Moshi & Old Moshi Rds; s/d US$72/83;
which take place Monday through Thurs- Rd Area burgers, Mexican dishes and more (meals ais ) Large, reliable and centrally
day; admission is free, but you’ll need your East of Colonel Middleton Rd and north of from TSh3000), plus a bar and a children’s located, this establishment is good value,
passport. the stadium (a 10-minute walk from the bus play area. Tents and sleeping bags can be with efficient staff, a forex bureau, several
station) is a clutch of cheap places. The area hired, and there are a few no-frills rooms restaurants, a small garden area, and good,
Sleeping isn’t great, but many travellers stay here and a dorm-style banda. It’s about 3km south- hot showers in rooms in the new wing.
BUDGET because prices are among the lowest in east of the town centre off Old Moshi Rd, Karama Lodge (%250 0359, 0744-475188; www
Guesthouses & Hotels – Clock Tower town. While some of the accommodation and also the base for Tropical Trails (p93). .karama-lodge.com; s/d US$79/107, day r US$40) Karama
Roundabout Area is fine and quite decent value, others let fly- Meserani Snake Park (%253 8282; www.feinc.net is nestled under the trees on a forested hill-
All the following places are in the green east- catchers (safari company touts) onto their /SnakePark; camping first night incl admission to the snake side in the Suye Hill area just south of town,
ern part of town, within easy access of the premises and should be avoided. Watch for park TSh3000, per night thereafter TSh2000) Popular and is a good choice if you want proximity to
post office and many safari operator offices. smooth talkers wanting to sell you safaris, with overlanders, with hot showers, a res- nature close to the town centre. Accommo-
Centre House Hostel (%250 2313, 250 3027; aid or to steer you to a hotel other than the one taurant and a couple of emergency rooms dation is in 12 rustic bungalows, each raised
[email protected]; Kanisa Rd; r per person with shared bath- you’ve picked out. if you’re ill. It’s about 25km west of Arusha, on stilts with verandas looking towards Kili-
room TSh6000) Run by the Catholic diocese, Kitunda Guesthouse (r TSh12,000, s/d with shared just off the Dodoma road. manjaro and Meru. There’s also a restaurant.
this no-frills place has spacious rooms – a bathroom TSh6000/8000) This place offers hot Vision Campsite (camping US$3) Small, shaded Follow Old Moshi Rd south about 2km from
quad, a triple and several doubles – with water and clean rooms, most of which had and very basic, this is the only place to pitch the edge of town to the signpost; turn left
shared facilities, and meals on order. The just received a coat of fresh paint when we a tent in the town centre. and continue 1.5km further.
compound gates shut at 10pm unless you’ve passed through. Moivaro Coffee Plantation (%255 3242/3; www
made previous arrangements. It’s about Monjes Guesthouse (d TSh4000-5500) A friendly MIDRANGE .moivaro.com; s/d US$100/136; is) Set amid the
300m in from Old Moshi Rd. and family-run establishment, with basic L’Oasis Lodge (%250 7089; www.loasislodge.com; back- coffee plantations about 6km east of Arusha,
Lutheran Centre (%250 8857; [email protected]; rooms and hot water. packers r per person with shared bathroom US$15, s/d/tr this is an ideal spot to spend a few days re-
Boma Rd; r per person with shared bathroom TSh5000) If Minja’s Guesthouse (r with shared bathroom US$65/75/94; is) This good place has a mix covering from jet lag or relaxing after a Kili-
the drab, institutional atmosphere doesn’t TSh4000) Similar to Monjes, but with shared of cosy African-style rondavels and airy stilt manjaro climb. Accommodation is in cosy
put you off, rooms here are good value. facilities. houses set around nice gardens, plus a few cottages, each with its own fireplace, and
There’s no food, and unless you’ve made William’s Inn (%250 3578; s/d TSh10,000/15,000) ‘corporate rooms’ with their own telephone/ there are surrounding gardens. It’s about
prior arrangements, check-in and checkout Short on ambience, but the rooms (the Internet connection, and the Lounge, an 2km south of the Arusha–Moshi highway
are during regular business hours Monday doubles have one large bed) are clean and excellent restaurant (see p184). There are and signposted.
to Friday only. It’s diagonally across from reasonable value. It’s on the other side of also rustic ‘backpacker’ doubles with shared Kigongoni (%250 2799; www.kigongoni.net; s/d/tr
the post office in a multistorey building. Colonel Middleton Rd to the previous three facilities, including hot water, in a separate US$140/180/210; s) Kigongoni has a tranquil
Everest Chinese Restaurant & Inn (%250 8419; listings, and is a bit quieter. building nearby. Full breakfast is included hilltop perch about 8km outside Arusha, a
[email protected]; Old Moshi Rd; s/d/tw/tr US$30/ in room prices, and volunteer discounts are cosy common area with fireplaces and read-
40/40/50) Clean, good-value rooms behind Guesthouses & Hotels – Market Area available for the nonbackpacker rooms. It’s ing nooks, a restaurant and spacious cottages,
Everest Chinese restaurant. There’s a triple These places are in the busy central market about 2km from the clock tower, and about all with porches, wonderful large bathtubs and
in the main house, and twins and doubles in area in the western part of town, and within 1km off the main Moshi to Nairobi road; views. Birding and village walks are possible
a small block building in the garden behind, about a 10-minute walk of the bus stand. the turn-off is diagonally across from Mt in the surrounding area. Follow the Moshi
all with nets and bathroom. It’s about 500m Flamingo (%254 8812; Kikuyu St; r TSh15,000) Clean Meru Hotel. road east for about 8km to the signposted
southeast of the clock tower roundabout, rooms that come with hot water and morn- Le Jacaranda (%254 4624; [email protected]; turn-off, from where it’s another 1km.
and signposted along Old Moshi Rd. ing tea, and are good value for doubles. s/d/tr US$45/50/65) Pleasantly faded rooms and New Arusha Hotel (% 250 7777, 250 8870;
Outpost (%254 8405; www.outposttanzania.com; Hotel Fort de Moines (%250 7406; Pangani St; s/d a restaurant in a large house just off Old [email protected]; s/d from US$140/160; i)
Serengeti Rd; dm/s/d US$18/38/49; i) The Outpost, US$30/35) A few steps up in both price and Moshi Rd. Directly on the clock tower roundabout, the
in a leafy residential area about 500m off standard, with bland straightforward rooms New Safari Hotel (%250 3261; www.newsafarihotel New Arusha has been completely renovated,
Old Moshi Rd and about 1km southeast of with fans but no nets. .co.tz; Boma Rd; s/d US$70/95; ai) Completely and is now the most upmarket option in the
TA N Z A N I A 184 N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • A r u s h a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • A r u s h a 185
TA N Z A N I A
town centre. Rooms are of a high standard, Rd; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-4pm Sun); McMoody’s flights to Mwanza (Precision Air, via Shin- Meru Hotel. All buses coming from Dar es
and there’s a restaurant and expansive gar- (Sokoine Rd; h11am-10pm Tue-Sun), with mostly yanga), and Lake Manyara and Tarangire Salaam and Moshi pass by here. There are
dens out back. burgers; and a branch of the South African National Parks (Coastal Aviation, Air Excel, taxis at the hotel (fares to town shouldn’t be
chain, Steers (Joel Maeda St). Regional Air). Some flights use Kiliman- more than TSh2000) and across the street,
Eating For more local flavour, try Geekay’s Take- jaro International Airport, about halfway and the scene is much less hectic than at
Lounge (%250 7089; meals TSh5500-6500; h10am- Away (India St; meals from TSh1000; h7.30am-6pm Mon- between Moshi and Arusha off the main the station. When departing Arusha, the
late) This low-key place has the best cuisine Sat), with plates of rice, ugali and sauce; or highway, while others use Arusha airport, best thing to do is book your ticket the day
in Arusha, featuring homemade tagliatelle, Khan’s (Mosque St; mixed grill TSh4500; hfrom 5.30pm), 8km from town along the Dodoma road; before, so that in the morning when you ar-
gourmet wraps, crispy salads, a good selec- an auto-spares store by day and a popular verify the departure point when buy- rive with your luggage you can get straight
tion of meat and seafood grills, plus pizzas barbecue by night, with a huge spread of ing your ticket. International airlines fly- on your bus. For predawn departures, take
and ‘Kilimanjaro nachos’; everything freshly grilled, skewered meat, and salads. ing into KIA include KLM and Ethiopian a taxi to the station and ask the driver to
made and excellently seasoned, and served Just out of town next to Shoprite is TFA Air. Sample prices: Arusha–Dar es Salaam drop you directly at your bus. Despite what
in generously large portions against a relaxed Centre (Dodoma rd), a shopping mall with every- (US$130), Arusha–Mwanza (US$140) and you may hear, there are no luggage fees
backdrop of comfortable lounge seating and thing to satisfy cravings for things Western, Arusha–Seronera (US$150). (unless you have an extraordinarily large
music. It’s at L’Oasis Lodge (p183), on the including gelato and gourmet coffee. Airline offices include the following: pack).
northern edge of town. Self-caterers should head to Shoprite (Do- Air Excel (%254 8429, 250 1597; reservations@airexcel
Big Bite (cnr Somali Rd & Swahili St; meals from doma rd; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat, 9am-1pm online.com; Goliondoi Rd) Babati, Kolo, Kondoa & Dodoma
TSh6500; hclosed Tue) Delicious Indian food, Sun), about 2km west of town at TFA Centre. Air Tanzania (%250 3201/3; www.airtanzania.com; Mtei line buses run three to four times daily
including numerous vegetarian dishes, in a Boma Rd) between Arusha and Babati (TSh4000, four
no-frills setting. Drinking & Entertainment Coastal Aviation (%250 0087; [email protected]; to six hours), departing between 6.30am and
Flame Tree (%0744-370474; Njiro Hill; meals from Via Via (Boma Rd) is one of the best spots for Boma Rd) 1pm. There are occasional direct buses from
TSh8000; hclosed Sun evenings) This popular place a drink, and to find out about upcoming Ethiopian Airlines (%250 6167, 250 7512; tsm-a@ Arusha to Kolo, Kondoa and on to Dodoma
about 1.5km south of the Impala Hotel music and traditional dance events; it’s in the ethair.co.tz; Boma Rd) (about 10 hours), but usually you’ll need to
roundabout has cosy seating – both indoors grounds of the Natural History Museum. KLM (%250 8062/3; [email protected]; change vehicles at Babati, as most transport
or outdoors overlooking the lush gardens – Greek Club (cnr Old Moshi & Serengeti Rds; hclosed Boma Rd) to Dodoma uses the longer Tarmac route
and tasty mostly continental cuisine. Mon & Thu) A popular expat hang-out, especially Precision Air (%250 2818, 250 2836; www.precision via Chalinze.
Jambo Coffee House (Boma Rd; meals TSh4000-6000; on weekend evenings; free movies on Sunday airtz.com; Boma Rd) Also handles Kenya Airways bookings.
huntil 10pm) European café chic in a Tan- afternoon, pizza, and a lively sports bar. Regional Air (%250 4477, 250 2541; www.airkenya Dar es Salaam
zanian setting. There’s an á la carte menu, Colobus Club (Old Moshi Rd; admission TSh3000; .com; Nairobi Rd) The main lines to/from Dar es Salaam all
and a good-value plate of the day for about h 10pm-dawn Fri-Sat) Arusha’s loudest and ZanAir (%024-223 3670; www.zanair.com; Moshi Rd) depart from and arrive at their own of-
TSh4500. brashest nightclub. In Bushbuck Safaris building. fices, thereby avoiding the main bus sta-
Via Via (meals from TSh3500; h10am-10pm Mon- Crystal Club (Seth Benjamin Rd; hfrom 11pm Fri & tions completely. The main lines include
Sat) Via Via is set in the gardens behind the Sat) Dancing until late. BUS the following:
Natural History Museum. The cuisine and Arusha has two main bus stations: the cen- Dar Express (%0744-946155; Colonel Middleton Rd)
atmosphere – a mixture of local and Euro- Shopping tral bus station near the market, for buses Buses depart Arusha at 6am (luxury TSh14,000) and, with
pean – are agreeable, and it’s a good spot to The small alley just off Joel Maeda St is full to Dar es Salaam, Tanga, Nairobi, Mom- luck, arrive in Dar es Salaam in time to catch the 4pm ferry
meet people. of craft dealers. Hard bargaining is required. basa and other points north and east; and to Zanzibar. If you’re trying to do this, stay on the bus
Spices & Herbs (%250 2279, Moshi Rd; meals from There are several large craft stores west of the Kilombero bus station, about 2km west past Ubungo bus station in Dar es Salaam until the bus
TSh4000; hlunch & dinner) The place to come for town, signposted along the Dodoma road. of town along the Dodoma road, opposite terminates at its offices in the city centre near Kisutu. From
Ethiopian cuisine, just in case you’ve had Aminata Boutique (Sokoine Rd), in the entryway Shoprite, for buses to Mwanza, Babati and here, it’s TSh1500 and about 10 minutes in a taxi to the
your fill of Tanzanian fare. to Arusha Naaz Hotel, has textiles. other points west and south. Both, especially ferry docks. There are also buses at 7.30am, 8.15am and
There’s stiff competition among Arusha’s Colourful local markets include the Nga- the central bus station, are chaotic and popu- 9am (ordinary TSh12,000). The Arusha office is diagonally
Chinese restaurants; they’re all good, with ramtoni market (hThu & Sun), about 12km lar haunts for flycatchers and touts. Watch across from Golden Rose Hotel.
meals from TSh5000 to TSh10,000. Two to north of town off the Nairobi road, and the your luggage, and don’t negotiate any safari Royal Coach (%250 7959, 0744-366121; Colonel Mid-
try are Everest Chinese Restaurant & Inn (%250 Tengeru market (hSat), about 10km east of deals at the stations. If you’re arriving for dleton Rd) Departures at 9am (TSh17,000) from the Royal
8419; Old Moshi Rd) and the Dragon Pearl (%254 town along the Moshi road. the first time, head straight for a taxi, or – if Coach booking office behind Golden Rose Hotel.
4107; Old Moshi Rd), both with pleasant garden arriving at the central station – duck into Scandinavian Express (%250 0153; cnr Somali St
seating areas. Getting There & Away the lobby of Hotel 7-11 across the street to & Kituoni Rd) Departures at 7am (coming from Kampala
There are dozens of places for burgers, AIR get your bearings. or Mwanza, luxury TSh24,000), 8.30am (ordinary/luxury
pizza and other Western-style fast food for There are daily flights to Dar es Salaam and If you’re arriving at the central bus TSh15,000/24,000) and 11am (luxury TSh24,000).
between TSh1500 and TSh4000. Popular Zanzibar (ZanAir, Coastal Aviation, Preci- station (and unless you’re staying in the
ones include the Patisserie (Sokoine Rd; snacks & sion Air, Air Tanzania), Nairobi (Precision budget-hotel area downtown, in which case Kampala (Uganda)
meals from TSh1000; h7am-6pm), which also has Air), Seronera and other airstrips in Ser- it makes sense to stay on the bus), you can Scandinavian Express goes daily between
soup, light meals, baked goods and an In- engeti National Park (Coastal Aviation, Air avoid the bus station altogether by asking Arusha and Kampala (TSh35,000, 17 hours);
ternet café; the similar Dolly’s Patisserie (Sokoine Excel, Regional Air). There are also daily the driver to drop you in front of the Mt see also p259.
TA N Z A N I A 186 N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • A r o u n d A r u s h a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • A r o u n d A r u s h a 187
TA N Z A N I A
Lushoto TO/FROM ARUSHA AIRPORT Mkuru A camel camp near Arusha National Park’s Momela There are several routes to Hanang’s sum-
Fasaha departs daily at 6.30am (TSh8000, Any daladala heading out along the Dodoma Gate, where you can take camel safaris ranging from a half mit. The most popular and logistically the
six hours). It’s faster but more expensive to road can drop you at the junction, from day to several days, or climb nearby Mt Ol Doinyo Landaree easiest is the Jorodom route, which starts near
take an express bus heading for Dar as far as where you’ll have to walk about 1.5km to the (about two hours to the summit). Bring everything with Katesh village on the mountain’s southern
Mombo, and then get local transport from airstrip. Taxis from town charge TSh10,000. you, including drinking water, and allow extra time to side. It’s described in more detail in Lonely
there to Lushoto. Precision Air sometimes runs a shuttle organise things. Planet’s Trekking in East Africa. While it’s
from its office at the AICC building to Aru- Mulala About 30km northeast of Arusha, and implemented possible to climb Hanang independently,
Mbeya sha airport, departing AICC about 1½ hours completely by women. It involves visits to a local women’s most travellers organise climbs through Ka-
Hood line runs a daily bus to Mbeya, depart- before scheduled fight departures. cooperative, and some short walks. hembe’s Trekking & Cultural Safaris (p92),
ing Arusha at 5.30am (TSh27,500, 16 hours). Ng’iresi A village about 7km north of Arusha where you based in Babati, and charging about US$40
CAR HIRE can visit local irrigation projects, see Maasai houses and per person per day for a three-day Hanang
Musoma & Mwanza Arusha Naaz Rent-a-Car (%250 2087; arushanaaz@ enjoy some walking. climb from Arusha, including a guide, sim-
Scandinavian Express buses go to Mwanza yahoo.com; Sokoine Rd) Based at Arusha Naaz ple meals and accommodation in a basic
via Nairobi and Musoma (TSh32,000 plus Hotel; rates (from US$80 to $120 per day for Via public transport, have any bus or dala- guesthouse in Katesh before and after the
US$20 for a Kenyan transit visa, 20 hours), 4WD) include 120 free kilometres per day. dala along the Moshi–Arusha highway drop trek. If you’re organising things on the spot,
departing Arusha about 3.30pm. you at the Tengeru junction, from where it’s just ask for Kahembe’s Guest House when
The other option is to go via Singida and TAXI about a 1.5km walk to the lake. you arrive in Babati and you’ll be pointed
Shinyanga in a large and very rugged south- There are taxi stands around the central bus in the right direction. Watch out for touts
western loop, but the road is in bad shape, station, opposite Mt Meru Hotel, on the Usa River and fake guides in both Babati and Katesh,
and the trip can take several days. southern side of the clock tower roundabout %027 or touts pretending to be from Kahembe’s.
near New Arusha Hotel, and at the east- This tiny, nondescript town along the In Babati, only go with a guide after you’ve
Moshi ern end of Makongoro Rd. Town rides cost Moshi–Arusha highway, about 20km east checked in with Kahembe’s Guest House or
Buses and minibuses run throughout the TSh1000 to TSh2000. of Arusha, is of interest for its proximity to office. In Katesh, Kabwogi’s Restaurant near
day between Arusha and Moshi (about Arusha National Park, and for its handful the Lutheran Mission in the centre of town
TSh1500, one hour). It’s pricier, more com- AROUND ARUSHA of atmospheric, upmarket lodges. can help you find a reliable guide.
fortable and safer to take one of the Arusha– Cultural Tourism Programs Rivertrees Country Inn (%255 3894; www.river Guesthouses in Babati include Kahembe’s
Nairobi shuttles (p257, TSh4000 between Several villages outside Arusha have or- trees.com; s/d US$125/150, river cottage US$240; i) Modern Guest House (%253 1088, 253 1377; kahembe
Moshi and Arusha). ganised Cultural Tourism Programs that has genteel old-world ambience, impecca- [email protected]; s/d TSh12,000/15,000), with self-
provide an opportunity to experience local ble service, hearty family-style cuisine and contained rooms and hot water; Motel Paa-
Nairobi (Kenya) culture. All can be booked through the TTB comfortably rustic rooms either in a beauti- Paa (%253 1111; s with shared bathroom TSh3000,
For more on this route see p257. Tourist Information Office (p181), which fully renovated colonial-era farmhouse or in d with private bathroom TSh4000), near the old bus
can also tell you the best transport connec- the gardens. There are also two private ‘river stand; and Dodoma Transport Hotel (%253 1089;
Tanga tions. Book a day in advance for the more cottages’, each with their own fireplaces and r TSh10,000), on the main road opposite the
Tashriff departs Arusha daily for Tanga at distant ones; for Ng’iresi and other pro- one with wheelchair access. It’s in shaded petrol station. In Katesh, 75km southwest of
8.30am and 11.30am (TSh9000, seven hours). grams close to town, guides usually wait at grounds running along the Usa River, and Babati and the main village near the moun-
Otherwise, take any Dar es Salaam bus and the TTB office on stand-by each morning. signposted off the main highway. tain, try Colt Guest House (%253 0030; s/d with
transfer at Segera junction. (Check with the TTB to be sure the one you shared bathroom TSh2000/3000, d with private bathroom
go with is authorised.) Tours average about Mt Hanang & Babati TSh5000) or the more basic Hanang View (s/d
Getting Around TSh15,000/25,000 per person for a half-/ %027 TSh2000/3000).
TO/FROM KILIMANJARO INTERNATIONAL full-day program with lunch (less for two or Volcanic Mt Hanang (3417m) rises steeply
AIRPORT more people), and include the following: from the plains about 200km southwest Kolo Rock Paintings
Both Air Tanzania and Precision Air have Ilkiding’a Come here for walking (from half-day strolls of Arusha. It’s Tanzania’s fourth-highest The tiny village of Kolo lies at the centre of
shuttles to both airports for their passengers, to a three-day ‘cultural hike’), and the chance to experi- mountain and, while time-consuming to one of the most impressive and most over-
departing from their offices about two hours ence the traditional culture of the Arusha people around reach, makes a rewarding trek that can be looked collections of ancient rock art on the
before scheduled flight departure. In the Ilkiding’a, 7km north of Arusha. done at a fraction of the cost of Mt Kili- African continent. The history of most of
other direction, look for the airlines’ buses Lake Duluti This small and tranquil crater lake lies about manjaro or Mt Meru. The surrounding area the paintings remains shrouded in mystery,
in the airport arrivals area. 11km east of Arusha, just off the main road near the village is home to numerous tribes, including the with little known about either their artists or
Riverside and Impala shuttles have a daily of Tengeru (known for its colourful Saturday market). It’s Barabaig, who still follow a seminomadic their age. One theory maintains they were
bus to KIA coordinated with KLM depar- part of a forest reserve, and there’s an ecotourism program of traditional lifestyle. The jumping-off point made by the Sandawe, who are distantly
tures and arrivals. They cost US$10, and sorts here, where you can arrange to go canoeing (per per- for climbs is the lively market town of Ba- related linguistically to South Africa’s San, a
depart at 6pm from the Mt Meru and Im- son US$20) or take guided nature walks around the lake. The bati, which is set in fertile countryside about group also renowned for its rock art. Others
pala Hotels respectively. They also wait for best contact for this is Green Footprint Adventures (p92). 175km southwest of Arusha. Flanking Ba- say the paintings, particularly some of the
arriving passengers. Longido Hike to the top of Mt Longido (2629m; eight to bati to the southwest is the tranquil Lake more recent ones, were done by various
Taxis from town to KIA charge about 10 hours return from the main road), and visit a Maasai Babati, fringed by tall reeds and home to Bantu-speaking peoples, who moved into
TSh30,000, more at night. cattle market at Longido, about 80km north of Arusha. hippos and water birds. the area at a later date. While some of the
ὈὈὈὈὈ
188 N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • A r u s h a N a t i o n a l Pa r k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • A r u s h a N a t i o n a l Pa r k 189
Arusha National Park
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
paintings date back more than 3000 years, fed by underground streams; due to their ARUSHA NATIONAL PARK 0
0
4 km
2 miles
others are much more recent, probably not varying mineral content, each lake supports
ὈὈὈὈὈ
more than a few hundred years old. a different type of algal growth, which gives Momela Route Little Meru (3820m)
ὅ
00
To visit, you’ll first need to arrange a them different colours. Birdlife also varies 30 0 34
00 Saddle Hut
1800
0
32
guide and a permit (TSh4000) with the De- quite distinctly from one lake to another, (3570m) Topela Mbogo
1600
Rhino Point
Miriakamba Hut Momela
partment of Antiquities in Kolo. You’ll then even where they are only separated by a nar- (2514m) Gate (1500m)
Hatari
Lodge
need to walk about two to 2½ hours from row strip of land. Mgongo Wa Momela Waterfall
3200
3000
Rou
3400
Tembo Leng te
Kolo to reach the paintings. With your own While you can see much of the park in a Kitoto
asa
River
00
00
Camp Sites
vehicle (4WD), you can drive to within a few day, it’s better to allow a night or two to ap- Ash Cone Hill
2000
28
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Tululusia
34
00 Park
2200
4
er
t Hill
kilometres of the first sites. preciate the wildlife and do a walking safari. ra
2 Fig Tree Headquarters
2600
Mer uC Njeku Camp
Kitoto Camp Itikoni Arch
You can also organise trips to Kolo Meru Summit (disused)
(disused)
Jekukumia River
Clearing
Maio Resthouses
(4566m)
through Arusha-based tour operators, and Information
4404200
Falls
Njeku
Falls Viewpoint Momela Route River
0
(for budget excursions) through Kahembe’s Entry fees are US$35/10 per adult/child per 400 Nanyu
ki Outer
0 Ngare
Trekking & Cultural Safaris (p92) in Babati day. For camping fees see p113. There’s a
Rd
3800
(US$60 per day plus transport costs). US$20 rescue fee per person per trip for 3600
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
3400
There’s a basic camping ground (camping treks on Mt Meru. Armed rangers (required 1:80,000
Contour Interval 200 metres
TSh2000) near Kolo, for which you’ll need for all walks) cost US$15 per day, and the 3200
300 0 4 km
0
to be fully equipped. Otherwise, the clos- huts on Mt Meru cost US$20. 0 2 miles
ὅ
est overnight base is Kondoa, 20km south, The main entrance is at Ngongongare To Ngare Nanyuki (8km); Mkuru
(15km); Ol Doinyo Landaree (15km)
where there are numerous guesthouses, the Gate, about 10km from the main road. Park Little Meru See Enlargement
ὅ
(3820m) Momela Lakes
best of which is New Planet (r TSh6500), near headquarters (%255 3995; h6.30am-6.30pm) – Topela
Lendoiya
Swamp
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
the bus stand. the main contact for making camp-site or Mbogo Momella
ὅὅ
Rhino Wildlife
Point Tululusia
Kolo is about 100km south of Babati and resthouse reservations, and for arranging Hill Lodge
275km southwest of Arusha. The best bus guides and porters to climb Mt Meru – is Ash Cone Kitoto
Momela
Gate
Itikoni
connections are from Babati, from where about 14km further in near Momela Gate. om
Hill Clearing Park Headquarters
Kinandia Swamp
M
there are several small buses daily to Kolo There is another entrance at Ngurdoto Gate, el a Momela
ὅ
R ou t e Arusha
National Park
and on to Kondoa (20km further). Alter- on the southeastern edge of the park. Walk- ku
mia River
natively, there’s at least one direct bus daily ing is permitted on the Mt Meru side of the ku
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Meru Je Lake Longil
Summit
between Arusha and Kondoa via Kolo, park, and there is a walking trail along part (4566m)
Lokie
Lake Jembamba
ὅὅ
Senato Pools
departing Arusha about 6am or 7am, and of the Ngurdoto Crater rim (though it’s not Swamp
Pa
reaching Kolo about six hours later. Going permitted to descend to the crater floor).
rk
Ngongongare
ὅὅ
Rd
in the other direction, there are several daily Green Footprint Adventures (p92) does canoe Hill Ngurdoto
Crater
buses from Kondoa to Arusha, departing safaris (per person US$40, plus transfer from Tengeru US$10, Ngurdoto Camp
Ou
Site
ter
Serengeti
between about 6am and 10am. Kolo can plus park fees, plus per person park canoeing fee cash only Ndogo
Rd
(grassland) Rd
also be reached from Dodoma, 180km to adult/child US$20/5) on the Momela Lakes. To Ngurdoto Lodge (2km); Park
Ngongongare
Ngurdoto
Gate
Usa River Village (10km);
the south. There’s nowhere in the park to buy food Rivertrees Country Inn (10km);
Colobus
Gate
Maji Ya
Arusha (30km) Chai River
or petrol. Mountain Lodge
ARUSHA NATIONAL PARK
%027 Sleeping north of Hatari Lodge, and about 1.5km off Getting There & Around
Although it’s one of Tanzania’s smallest The park has four ordinary camp sites, three the road from Momela Gate. Small, service- The gate to Arusha National Park is about
parks, Arusha National Park is one of its near Momela Gate (including one with a able cottages are set around modest gardens, 35km from Arusha. Take the main road be-
most beautiful and topographically varied. shower), and one near Ngurdoto Gate. There and the lodge can provide a vehicle and tween Arusha and Moshi until you reach the
Its main features are Ngurdoto Crater, the are also two resthouses near park headquar- driver for visiting the park for US$30/60 national park signboard, where you turn left.
Momela Lakes and Mt Meru. The park has a ters with kitchen facilities. per half/full day. From here, it’s about 10km to Ngongongare
variety of vegetation zones supporting many Hatari Lodge (%255 3456/7; www.hatarilodge.com; Other recommendations: Gate, where you pay your fees. This is also
animal species, and wildlife viewing is usu- r per person full board plus safaris US$295) Hatari has Ngurdoto Lodge (%255 3701; ngurdoto-lodge@ where the road divides, with both forks join-
ally quite rewarding, though on a smaller an upscale ambience, creative ‘modern retro’ habari.co.tz; r per person full board US$150) An upmarket ing up again at Momela Gate.
scale than in the other northern parks. You’ll room décor, a wonderful location on large lodge with attentive hosts and five spacious double Via public transport, there’s a daily bus
probably see zebras, giraffes, elephants, klip- lawns frequented by giraffes, and views that bungalows set on a large lawn with views of Kilimanjaro between Arusha and Ngare Nanyuki (10km
springers and buffaloes. There are no lions, take in both Meru and Kilimanjaro on clear and Meru. It’s about 7km north of the main highway along north of Momela Gate), departing Arusha
however, and no rhinos due to poaching. days. It’s on the edge of the park about 1.5km the road to Ngongongare Gate. at 1pm and Ngare Nanyuki at 7am, that
The Momela Lakes are particularly good for north of Momela Gate. Colobus Mountain Lodge (%255 3632; camping can drop you at the park gate (TSh2000, 1½
bird-watching. Like many in the Rift Valley, Momella Wildlife Lodge (%250 6423/6; www.lions US$5, s/d US$35/50) A two-minute walk from Ngongon- hours from Arusha to Ngongongare Gate).
they are shallow and alkaline and attract a -safari-intl.com/momella.html; s/d/tr half board US$68/98/ gare Gate, with bougainvillea-dotted grounds, a camping Otherwise, take any bus between Arusha
wide variety of wader birds. The lakes are 128) This long-standing establishment is just area, reasonable budget-style rooms and a restaurant. and Moshi, and get off at Usa River village,
TA N Z A N I A 190 N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • T re k k i n g o n M t M e r u www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • L a k e M a n y a r a N a t i o n a l Pa r k 191
TA N Z A N I A
1km east of the park junction, from where you should get in Arusha, as there’s nowhere climbs gradually through the grassland to LAKE MANYARA NATIONAL PARK
sporadic pick-ups run through the park to to stock up near the park) and transport. As Miriakamba, and makes a good descent %027
Ngare Nanyuki village. paying park fees and arranging guides and route. Some guides prefer to go up and Among the attractions of the often under-
Most of the lodges arrange wildlife- porters can take a couple of hours, it’s worth down the shorter route, and it may require rated Lake Manyara National Park are its su-
viewing drives for their guests from about making arrangements the night before. some persuading to take the forest route. perb birdlife, its elusive tree-climbing lions
US$100 per vehicle for a drop at the gate, up and its abundance of hippos, which you can
to double this for an all-inclusive day safari, GUIDES & PORTERS STAGE 2: MIRIAKAMBA HUT TO observe at closer range here than at most
and from about US$50 for a day safari. A guide is mandatory and can be arranged SADDLE HUT other places. There’s also the park’s striking
at Momela Gate. The US$15 daily fee is (4km, 2-3hr, 1050m ascent) setting, bordered to the west by the dramatic
TREKKING ON MT MERU paid to the park rather than to the guide From Miriakamba the path climbs steeply western escarpment of the Rift Valley. Fi-
At 4566m, Mt Meru is the second-highest himself. Unlike on Kilimanjaro, guides on up through pleasant glades between the trees nally, there’s the chance to do night drives,
mountain in Tanzania. Although com- Meru are armed rangers whose purpose is to reach Topela Mbogo (Buffalo Swamp) go microlight flying above the lake and the
pletely overshadowed by Kilimanjaro and to assist you in case you meet some of the and Mgongo Wa Tembo (Elephant Ridge), magnificent Rift Valley escarpment, or cycle
frequently overlooked by trekkers, it is a park’s buffaloes or elephants, rather than from where there are good views into the in park border areas.
spectacular volcanic cone with one of East to show you the way (although they know crater and up to the cliffs below the sum-
Africa’s most scenic and rewarding climbs. the route), so it’s advisable to stay within mit. It continues through some open grassy Information
A trek to the summit takes you through reasonable range of your guide. clearings and over several stream beds (usu- Entry fees are US$35/10 per adult/child per
grassland and lush forest on the mountain’s Porters, whose services are optional, are ally dry) to Saddle Hut (3570m). There are day. For camping fees see p113. The park
lower slopes, followed by a dramatic and also available at Momela Gate for US$5 per side trips from Saddle Hut to Little Meru gate and park headquarters (%253 9112/45) are
exhilarating walk along the knife edge of the porter per day, though most trekkers go up (3820m) and to Rhino Point, both of which at the northern tip of the park near Mto Wa
crater rim. As with Kilimanjaro, it’s a seri- with only a guide. The fee is paid at the gate offer impressive views of Meru’s Ash Cone. Mbu village.
ous trek and acclimatisation is important. and given to the porters after the trip. You Green Footprint Adventures (p92) or-
also have to pay park-entrance (TSh1500) STAGE 3: SADDLE HUT TO MERU SUMMIT ganises village walks, mountain biking and
Information and hut fees for porters (TSh800 per night). & DESCENT forest hikes, as well as night drives inside
The Momela route is the only route up Porters will carry packs weighing up to 15kg, (5km, 4-5hr, 1000m ascent; 5km, 2-3hr, 1000m descent) the park (Manyara is the only northern park
Meru. It starts at Momela gate on the east- not including their own food and clothing. This stage, along a very narrow ridge be- where you can do this) for US$130 per per-
ern side of the mountain and goes to the Guides on Mt Meru receive a fixed tween the outer slopes of the mountain and son plus park fees, including a predrive bush
summit along the northern arm of the horse- monthly salary for their work as rangers, the sheer cliffs of the inner crater, is one of dinner under the stars. Prices decrease with
shoe crater. The route can be done comfort- and get no additional payment from the the most dramatic and exhilarating sections two or more people. Budget cultural walks
ably in four days (three nights), although park for guiding. In fact, without tips a of trekking anywhere in East Africa. During outside the park can be organised through
trekkers often do it in three days by com- guide has little extra incentive to take you the rainy season, ice and snow can occur on the Mto Wa Mbu Cultural Tourism Pro-
bining Stages 3 and 4. For more details, see to the summit, so it’s worth calculating tips this section of the route, so take care. gram (see p192). You can also arrange micro-
Lonely Planet’s Trekking in East Africa. as part of your fixed costs. Make it clear to From Saddle Hut, the path goes across light flying (US$125/255 for 20 minutes/
There are two large bunkhouses (Miri- the guide that you’ll tip, but that payment a flat area, then steeply up through bushes one hour) through them, or directly at the
akamba and Saddle Huts), conveniently is conditional on him guiding you at an ap- before giving way to bare rock and ash. microlight base, on the escarpment along
spaced for a three- or four-day trek. At Saddle propriate pace to the summit. We’ve heard Rhino Point is marked by a cairn and a pile the road leading to the park gate.
Hut there’s also a newly constructed bunk- all-too-frequent reports of poorly motivated of bones. From Rhino Point the path drops Up-close wildlife-viewing opportunities
house block with individual four-bed rooms. guides rushing their clients on the early slightly then rises again to climb steeply are scarce at Manyara in comparison with the
However, all the bunkhouses operate on a stages of the climb, with the result that the around the edge of the rim over ash scree other northern parks, so bring binoculars.
first-come, first-served basis, and during the trekkers themselves are forced to bail out and bare rock patches. Continue for three
high season often fill up. For this reason, it’s before reaching the top. As a guideline, for to four hours to reach Meru summit. Sleeping
a good idea to carry a tent, though even if you a good guide who has gone with you to the If the sunrise is your main interest but The park has two ordinary camp sites, about
camp, whether by choice or necessity, you’ll summit, plan on about TSh10,000 per day you’re not keen on attempting this section 10 double bandas with bathroom (US$20
still need to pay hut fees. per group. Porter tips for a standard trek in the dark, the views at dawn are just as per person), and a student hostel, all near the
average about TSh5000 per porter. impressive from Rhino Point, about an hour main gate. There are also three special camp
COSTS from Saddle Hut. sites in the park. The bandas have bedding, a
Most companies that organise Kilimanjaro Momela Route cooking area and, with luck, hot water.
treks also organise treks on Mt Meru. See STAGE 1: MOMELA GATE TO STAGE 4: SADDLE HUT TO MOMELA GATE Basic foodstuffs are available at the market
p92 for listings. Rates for a four-day trip MIRIAKAMBA HUT (9km, 3-5½hr, 2000m descent) in Mto Wa Mbu; otherwise you’ll need to
range from about US$500 to US$650. (10km, 4-5hr, 1000m ascent) From Saddle Hut, retrace the Stage 2 route to stock up in Arusha.
Organised treks are not obligatory, and There’s a choice of two routes from Momela Miriakamba (1½ to 2½ hours). From Miri-
you can do things quite easily on your own. Gate. The more interesting one is a track akamba, you can either return through the LODGES & TENTED CAMPS
The main costs for an independent trek going through the forest towards the crater forest (2½ to three hours), or take a shorter Kirurumu Luxury Tented Camp (%250 7011, 250 7541;
are park-entrance, hut and guide fees (see floor and then steeply up to Miriakamba route down the ridge directly to Momela www.kirurumu.com; s/d full board US$165/250) A genteel,
p188). Also add in the costs of food (which Hut (2514m). The second, shorter option Gate (1½ to 2½ hours). low-key ambience, closeness to the natural
TA N Z A N I A 192 N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • Ta r a n g i re N a t i o n a l Pa r k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • S e re n g e t i N a t i o n a l Pa r k 193
TA N Z A N I A
surroundings and memorable cuisine are Lake Manyara Tented Camp (%255 3242; www until October when the short wet season bathroom and open-air shower, and a tree house. It’s just
the hallmarks at this highly regarded camp. .moivaro.com; per person half board US$107/133) The allows them to move on to new grasslands. outside the park’s northern border (about 45 minutes by ve-
It’s set on the escarpment about 12km from main attraction of this unassuming place – The park is also good for bird-watching, hicle to the gate), with the chance for walks and night drives.
the park gate and 6km from the main road, formerly Migunga Forest Camp – is its set- especially between October and May, with Kikoti (%250 8090; www.tzphotosafaris.com; s/d full
with views of Lake Manyara in the distance. ting, in a grove of fever trees that echoes with over 300 different species recorded. board plus bush walk US$295/440) On a rise just east of the
The 20 double tents are hidden away in the bird calls. The tents are rustic but adequate, Tarangire is part of an extended ecosystem park boundaries, this camp has spacious, well-appointed
vegetation, and well spaced for privacy, and and safaris to Lake Manyara National Park through which animals roam freely, and it’s luxury tents and the chance for walks and night drives.
there are several larger ‘family suite’ tents. and Ngorongoro Crater can be arranged. possible to do walks and night drives in the
Lake Manyara Serena Lodge (%250 4158/3; It’s about 2km south of the main road and border areas. Getting There & Away
www.serenahotels.com; s/d full board US$285/420; s) signposted. Coastal Aviation, Air Excel and Regional
Serena is large and not the least bit intimate, Twiga Campsite & Lodge (%253 9101; twiga Information Air all stop at Tarangire on request on their
but the views are great, and accommoda- [email protected]; camping US$5, d/tr with shared bath- Entry fees are US$35/10 per adult/child per flights between Arusha and Lake Manyara
tion – in two-storey conical bungalows – room US$30/45; s) A large compound along day. For bookings, contact the senior park (approximately US$60 per seat).
is comfortable, with all the amenities. It’s the main road with ablution blocks with warden (%253 1280/1, 250 8642). The entry gate There’s nowhere in or near Tarangire to
southwest of Kirurumu on the escarpment hot and cold water, cooking facilities and is at the northwestern tip of the park. hire vehicles. The closest place to buy petrol
overlooking the Rift Valley, and about 2km a restaurant. Car hire to visit Lake Man- is in Makuyuni.
from the main road. yara and Ngorongoro Conservation Area Sleeping
E Unoto Retreat (%0744-360908; www.maasai costs US$140 per day including petrol and There’s an ordinary camp site near park SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK
village.com; s/d full board US$224/408) A classy lodge driver. headquarters and about 12 special camp Serengeti National Park, which covers 14,763
with Maasai overtones and spacious luxury sites. There’s nowhere to stock up near the sq km and is contiguous with Masai Mara
bungalows nestled at the base of the Rift Val- GETTING THERE & AWAY park, so bring what you need from Arusha. National Reserve in Kenya, is Tanzania’s
ley escarpment near Lake Miwaleni. There’s Coastal Aviation, Air Excel and Regional Air Tarangire Safari Lodge (%254 4752; www.tarangire largest and most famous national park. On
birding in the area, as well as cycling and offer scheduled daily, or near-daily, services safarilodge.com; s/d full board US$125/200; s) This its vast, treeless plains tens of thousands of
cultural walks. E Unoto is 10km north of Mto between Arusha and Lake Manyara for large lodge is good value, with a prime lo- hoofed animals are constantly on the move
Wa Mbu, off the road to Lake Natron. about US$65 one way. The airstrip is at the cation on a bluff overlooking the Tarangire in search of fresh grassland. The wildebeest,
Lake Manyara Tree Lodge (www.ccafrica.com; per northwestern edge of the park. River, about 10km inside the park gate, of which there are over one million, are the
person all-inclusive US$490-630; hJun-Mar; s) Lake By public transport, the best connections and accommodation in tents or thatched chief herbivores and also the main prey of
Manyara’s most exclusive lodge, and the are on the Ngorongoro Crater bus (p199), bungalows. large carnivores such as lions and hyenas,
only one within the park boundaries, with which passes Mto Wa Mbu about 12.30pm Oliver’s Camp (%250 2799; www.asilialodges.com; and their annual migration is the Serengeti’s
10 intimate ‘tree house suites’ set in the for- coming from Arusha, and about 10.30am in s/d all-inclusive US$350/600; hJul-Feb) A fine, in- biggest drawcard.
est at the southern end of the park. the other direction. timate camp, with six tents set on a ridge During the rainy season between Decem-
While it’s easy to reach Mto Wa Mbu overlooking the swamplands of southeastern ber and May the herds are widely scattered
Mto Wa Mbu with public transport, once there you’ll need Tarangire in one of the park’s wildest sec- over the southern section of the Serengeti
%027 to hire a vehicle to explore the park, which tions. You can also do walking safaris. and the Ngorongoro Conservation Area
The touristy village of Mto Wa Mbu (River can be arranged through the places listed Tamarind Camp Tarangire (%250 7011, 250 7541; (NCA). As these areas have few large rivers
of Mosquitoes) is redeemed from scruffi- under Sleeping, and will cost from about www.kirurumu.com; s/d full board US$165/250; hJun- and streams, they dry out quickly when the
ness by its lively market, and by its beautiful US$140 per day. There’s no vehicle hire at Mar) Intimate and rustic, this comfortable rains cease. When this happens, the wilde-
vegetation – a profusion of palms, baobabs the park itself. Petrol is available in Mto camp is a good base if you’re interested in beest concentrate on the few remaining
and acacia trees framed by the backdrop Wa Mbu. doing nature or wildlife walks together with green areas, and form large herds that mi-
of the Rift Valley escarpment. There are your safari. Night drives are also possible. It’s grate north and west in search of food. The
cultural walks in the surrounding area, TARANGIRE NATIONAL PARK about 20 minutes’ drive from the park gate wildebeest then spend the dry season, from
best organised through the Cultural Tourism %027 and signposted off the Makuyuni road. about July to October, outside the Serengeti
Program office (%253 9393; mtoculturalprogramme@ Baobab-studded Tarangire National Park Other recommendations: and in the Masai Mara, before they again
hotmail.com) at the Red Banana Café on the stretches southeast of Lake Manyara around Tarangire Treetops Lodge (%250 0630/9; info@ start moving south in anticipation of the
main road opposite the post office. Rates the Tarangire River. Like nearby Lake Man- elewana.com; s/d full board incl wildlife drives US$385/ rains. Around February, the calving season,
average TSh25,000 per person per day, plus yara National Park, it’s often assigned no 770; hJun-Mar) Pampered and upmarket, with spacious over 8000 wildebeest calves are born per
TSh4000 per day for bicycle hire. more than a day visit as part of a larger bungalows set on low stilts, or built tree house–style around day, although about 40% of these will die
northern-circuit safari, although it’s well the baobabs. It’s outside Tarangire’s northeastern border. before they are four months old.
SLEEPING & EATING worth longer exploration. The park is a Tarangire Swala (%250 9816; www.sanctuarylodges The Serengeti is also famous for its lions,
There are several inexpensive guesthouses classic dry-season destination, particularly .com; s/d all-inclusive US$505/810) Tarangire’s most exclu- as well as cheetahs, zebras (of which there
in town, all with basic rooms from about between August and October, when it has sive option, nestled in a grove of acacia trees and overlook- are about 200,000) and large herds of gi-
TSh2500 (shared facilities) to TSh6000 (with one of the highest concentrations of wildlife ing the Gurusi wetlands in the southwestern part of the park. raffes. You’re also likely to see Thomson’s
bathroom), including Sayari Lodge behind of any of the country’s parks. Large herds Naitolia Camp (%0744-470447, 275451; info@tarangire and Grant’s gazelles, elands, impalas, klip-
the market, and Sunlight Lodge, along the of zebras, wildebeest, hartebeest and – in conservation.com; per person all-inclusive US$175) A low- springers and warthogs, as well as diverse
main road. particular – elephants can be found here key lodge with three rustic tented cabins, all with attached birdlife.
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ ὈὈ
194 N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • S e re n g e t i N a t i o n a l Pa r k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • S e re n g e t i N a t i o n a l Pa r k 195
Serengeti National Park
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
The Serengeti offers unparalleled safari Walking in the Serengeti isn’t permitted, SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK 0
0
30 km
20 miles
opportunities, and the beauty and syn- though it’s easily arranged in areas that bor- Lake ia
A B Isur C D
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ ὈὈ
chrony of nature can be appreciated here as der the park, especially in the north around Victoria
rpm
ent Keekorak
Musoma Esca To Nairobi (255km)
in few other places. If you’re able to visit, it’s Loliondo, and in the adjoining NCA. Mara River KENYA
a chance not to be missed. Try to set aside as 12
Masai Mara
NR
much time as possible to explore the park’s Sleeping 1 Ikorongo Hills Bologonya
varied zones and appreciate its vastness. There are about nine ordinary camp sites Gate
Ikorongo
in the park, including six around Seronera, Game Reserve
Information one at Lobo, one at Kirawira in the West-
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ
Entry fees are US$50/10 per adult/child per ern Corridor and one near Ndabaka Gate Klein's
Gate
day. Bookings for camp sites, resthouses and in the far west along the Mwanza–Musoma
v er 4
the hostel should be made through the Tour- road. Several have pit toilets and at least one Grumeti Ri
Loliondo
ism Warden (%028-262 0091, 028-262 1515/04; www has a shower, though for most you’ll need 9 7 Game
Controlled
.serengeti.org). Park headquarters are at Fort to be self-sufficient, including with water. Ruan
a Riv
er
16 Lobo
6 Area
2 Bunda
Ikoma, just outside the park, while the tour- There are also several rustic but comfort- Serengeti
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
Fort Ikoma National Park
ism division is at Seronera. able resthouses at Seronera with bathrooms Sabora
Plain
Park Headquarters
r
Ruana Plain & Ikoma Gate
ive
There’s is an excellent Visitors Informa- and bedding, and a large hostel. You can Speke 15
iR
3 1
Gulf
led
tion Centre at Seronera, and a small shop also buy simple meals and basic foodstuffs
Bo
Ndabaka Gate Western Corridor Grume River
ti ngi
selling maps and sometimes film, among at Seronera. & National Park
Camp Site Simiti Hills River Ora
other items. There are at least two dozen special camp 2 Banagi
To Loliondo
Handajega Musabi Plain Nya
sites, including at Seronera, Lobo and Naabi
Ng
To Speke Bay Gate Dutwa Plain bo (50km)
ga
are
Lodge (15km);
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ
ti R
WHEN TO GO Hill Gate. There are also a number of lodges Mwanza (135km) ive
Na
13 ny r
uk
The concentration of wildlife in the Serengeti and tented camps in the park, as detailed Nyamuma Hills
8
i
Joins Ngorongoro Conservation Area Map (p198)
Seronera
is greatest between about December and following. 3 Visitors Information Centre
Ndoha Plain Mba 17 Ri 11
lag ver
June, although the park can be visited re- SLEEPING
eti
Ri
ve
wardingly at any time of year. If you are pri- CENTRAL SERENGETI Grumeti River Camp..................1 A2
Nyaraboro Hills
r
Kijereshi Tented Camp...............2 A3 Hembe
marily interested in the wildebeest, the best The main lodge area is at Seronera, in the Maswa Kirawira Camp...........................3 A2 Du 14
m
base from about December to April is at one centre of the park. While it’s Serengeti’s Klein's Camp..............................4 D2
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ
a
Kusini Camp..............................5 C4 Serengeti
of the camps near Seronera or in the south- most crowded area, it’s also a reliable ‘fall-
Ri
ve
Lobo Wildlife Lodge...................6 D2 National Park
r
eastern part of the park. The famous crossing back’ for most of the year, with relatively Loliondo Camp..........................7
Mbalageti...................................8
D2
B3
Itonjo Hills Ngorongoro
Conservation
of the Grumeti River, which runs through easy access to most of the park’s other zones Migration Camp........................9 D2 Maswa
Game
Moru
Naabi Hill
Area
the park’s Western Corridor, usually takes if you don’t have the time or interest to Ndutu Safari Lodge..................10
Sayari Camp............................ 11
C4
D3
Reserve Gate
S e ren g e ti
place between May and July, although the explore further afield. 4 Sayari Camp.............................12 C1 Lake P l ains
River Ndutu Lake
actual viewing window can be quite short. Seronera Wildlife Lodge (%027-254 4595, 027- Serengeti Serena Lodge...........13
Serengeti Sopa Lodge..............14
C3
C3
Sim iyu Masek
In particularly dry years, the herds tend to 254 4795; www.hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com; r per person Serengeti Stop-Over Point.......15 A2 Olduvai
Serengeti Tented Camp...........16 C2 5 Gorge
move northwards sooner, avoiding or only full board US$180) This is the best overall value, Seronera Wildlife Lodge...........17 C3 10 To Ngorongoro Crater
(75km); Arusha (255km)
skirting the Western Corridor. The northern with a good location convenient to prime
Serengeti, around Lobo and Klein’s Gate, is a wildlife-viewing areas, modest but pleasant
good base during the dry season, particularly rooms and a lively end-of-the-day safari NORTHERN SERENGETI just outside the northeasternmost park
between August and October. atmosphere at the evening buffet. The north has an excellent collection of boundary, with eight luxurious cottages,
Serengeti Serena Lodge (%027-250 4158, 027-250 camps and makes a fine base between Au- and the chance to do night wildlife drives.
Activities 4153; www.serenahotels.com; s/d full board US$285/420; gust and October. The area bordering this Sayari Camp (%027-250 2799; www.asilialodges.com;
An expensive but enjoyable way to experi- s) About 20km northwest of Seronera part of the park, to the east, is also ideal s/d all-inclusive US$350/600) This excellent eight-
ence the Serengeti is via balloon safari. This airstrip, and not as favourably located as for combining a safari with walks (including tent seasonal camp follows the Serengeti mi-
costs US$449 per person for about an hour Seronera Wildlife Lodge, but otherwise a multiday walks) and cultural activities focus- gration, so that it’s at the heart of the action.
floating over the plains at dawn, followed good choice, and very comfortable. Accom- ing on the local Maasai; Loliondo Camp and From mid-June through November, it’s in
by a full English champagne breakfast in modation is in two-storey ‘Maasai bunga- Sayari Camp are good contacts for this. a particularly beautiful setting on the Mara
the bush under the acacia trees, complete lows’ with all the amenities. Migration Camp (%027-250 0630/39; www.elewana River, while from mid-December through
with linen tablecloths. The flight route Serengeti Sopa Lodge (%027-250 0630/39; info@ .com; s/d full board incl wildlife drives US$385/770; s) March, it’s just outside the Serengeti’s south-
varies depending on the winds, but often sopalodges.com; s/d full board US$175/280; s) Pon- A luxurious camp, recently completely re- eastern border, with access to the herds of
follows a stretch of the Grumeti River. derous and architecturally unappealing, built, with an intimate bush atmosphere, wildebeest in the Ndutu area, and the chance
Bookings can be made in Arusha through but rooms – all spacious, with small sitting and views over the Grumeti River in a good for cultural activities and walking.
Serengeti Balloon Safaris (%027-250 8578; www rooms and two double beds – have all the wildlife-viewing area. Loliondo Camp (%027-250 7011, 027-250 7541;
.balloonsafaris.com), or through any of the cen- comforts, and facilities are on a par with Klein’s Camp (www.ccafrica.com; per person all-inclusive www.kirurumu.com; s/d all-inclusive US$620/840; hOct-
tral Serengeti lodges. those at the other Sopa lodges. US$560; s) Exclusive and strikingly situated Mar) An intimate five-tent camp east of Lobo
TA N Z A N I A 196 N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • S e re n g e t i N a t i o n a l Pa r k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • N g o r o n g o r o C o n s e r v a t i o n A re a 197
TA N Z A N I A
Wildlife Lodge, and just outside the park Gate. There’s space to pitch a tent and a few simple, Getting There & Away Serengeti) and a long string of volcanoes
boundary, set amid grasslands and wooded clean rooms, plus food and a small bar. Any bus along Coastal Aviation, Air Excel and Regional and collapsed volcanoes (often referred to
hills dotted with huge granite boulders. It’s the Mwanza–Musoma road will drop you nearby. The Air all have daily flights from Arusha to as calderas), most of which are inactive. Just
a good choice if you want to combine your camp hires a safari vehicle (with advance notice) for about several of the Serengeti airstrips for between outside the NCA’s eastern boundary is the
safari with some cultural interaction with US$150 per day, and can organise cultural excursions, US$145 and US$170 per person one way. archaeologically important Engaruka, and
the local Maasai. It’s also well situated for Swahili lessons and more. Some of Coastal’s flights continue on to to the south is Lake Eyasi. To the northeast
night drives and multiday walking safaris. Kijereshi Tented Camp (%028-250 0127, 028-262 Mwanza and Rubondo Island National Park of the NCA on the Kenyan border is the
Other recommendations: 1231; www.hoteltilapia.com; s/d US$40/70, with full board on demand. alkaline Lake Natron.
Lobo Wildlife Lodge (%027-254 4595, 027-254 4795; US$65/100; s) A budget place just outside the park Most travellers visit the Serengeti with an
www.hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com; r per person full boundaries, 18km east of the Mwanza–Musoma road and organised safari or with their own vehicle. Information
board US$180) Well located and similar in standard to the signposted, and about 2km from the Serengeti’s Handajega For shoestring travellers the only other The NCA is under the jurisdiction of the
Seronera Wildlife Lodge. If your budget is limited, it’s the Gate. It’s a popular base for overlanders, with functional option for trying to get a glimpse of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority (NCAA;
best value in this part of the park. tented accommodation (you can also pitch your own tent animals is to take a bus travelling between % 253 9108, 253 7019, 253 7060; ncaa_hq@habari.
Serengeti Safari Camp (www.nomad-tanzania.com; for US$5) plus a few rooms, a restaurant, and cooking Arusha and Mwanza or Musoma via the co.tz). Its headquarters is at Park Village at
per person all-inclusive US$480) A highly exclusive mobile facilities for self-caterers. Western Corridor (see p205), although you Ngorongoro Crater, with a tourist informa-
camp that follows the wildebeest migration, with some Speke Bay Lodge (%028-262 1236; spekebay@ won’t be able to stop to observe the wildlife. tion office in Arusha.
of the best guides in the Serengeti. The camp can only be africaonline.co.tz; s/d tents with shared bathroom US$31/44, You will need to pay park fees and, if you Entry fees – which you’ll need to pay
booked through upmarket travel agents. s/d bungalows US$80/100) On Lake Victoria about 15km get out at Seronera, you’ll have the consider- to visit Ngorongoro Crater and for all ac-
southwest of Ndabaka Gate and 125km north of Mwanza. able problem of getting onward transport, as tivities within the NCA – are US$30 per
WESTERN SERENGETI Accommodation is in simple tents with shared facilities, or hitching is not permitted in the park. person per day (discounted for children).
Apart from the park camp sites, the western in spotless, if soulless, en suite four-person bungalows. The The main access gates are Naabi Hill Gate Guides cost US$15 per day, and US$20 for
Serengeti is the only area that has budget op- hotel can help you organise boat, fishing or birding excur- (h6am-6pm), 50km from Seronera at the walking safaris. To drive into Ngorongoro
tions (all outside the park). It also has several sions on the lake; for safaris, you’ll need your own vehicle. southeastern edge of the park, and Ndabaka Crater, there’s an additional US$100 vehicle
of the Serengeti’s most upmarket lodges, and Mbalageti (%027-254 8632; www.mbalageti.com; Gate (h6am-4pm), about 140km northeast of fee per entry, valid for six hours, although
is the best base in the park between around d full board r/luxury tent US$310/550) This new camp Mwanza along the Mwanza–Musoma road. this limit is not currently being enforced.
May and early July, when the wildebeest has comfortable rooms, plus two-dozen luxury tented Bologonya Gate, 5km from the Kenyan bor- Camping fees are US$20/40 per person in
move through. chalets set out on a low hillside north of the Mbalageti der, is en route to/from Kenya’s Masai Mara an ordinary/special campsite.
Serengeti Tented Camp (%027-255 3242; www River. You’ll need your own vehicle for safaris, or else make National Reserve, but the border is open The two entry points to the NCA are
.moivaro.com; per person full board US$160/213) This arrangements with the camp in advance. only to East African residents or citizens. Lodoare Gate (h6.30am-6pm), just to the south
small camp is just outside the park bound- There are other entry points at Handajega of Ngorongoro Crater, and Naabi Hill Gate
ary and 3km from Ikoma Gate. It has 12 SOUTHEASTERN SERENGETI (Western Corridor) and in the north near (h6am-6pm), on the border with Serengeti
simple tents with bathrooms and hot water, The Serengeti’s southeastern corner makes Klein’s Camp. Driving is not permitted in National Park.
plus the chance for night drives and guided a good base for wildlife viewing during the the park after 7pm.
walks in the surrounding area. wet season (December to early April), when Petrol points en route from Arusha in- Crater Highlands
Grumeti River Camp (www.ccafrica.com; per person it’s full of wildebeest. clude Makuyuni, Mto Wa Mbu and Karatu. The ruggedly beautiful Crater Highlands
all-inclusive US$630; s) One of the most exclu- Ndutu Safari Lodge (%027-250 2829; www.ndutu Petrol is also usually available at Ngorongoro consist of an elevated range of volcanoes
sive camps in the Serengeti. It’s in a wild .com; s/d US$156/210) Unpretentious and com- Crater (Park Village) and at the Seronera and collapsed volcanoes that rises up from
bush location near the Grumeti River that’s fortably rustic, with cottages set just outside Wildlife Lodge. It’s not available anywhere the side of the Great Rift Valley and runs
especially prime around June–July when the the Serengeti in the far western part of NCA. else in the park, so if you are in your own along the eastern edge of the NCA. The
wildebeest are often around. Accommoda- It’s especially well situated for observing vehicle, come prepared with sufficient sup- peaks include Oldeani (3216m), Makarot
tion is in 10 spacious luxury tents with all the enormous herds of wildebeest in this plies. Coming from the west, the most re- (Lemagurut, 3132m), Olmoti (3100m),
the amenities. area between about December and April, liable petrol points are Mwanza, Musoma Loolmalasin (3648m), Empakaai (3262m,
Kirawira Camp (%027-250 4158/3, 028-262 1518; and makes a good stop if you’re en route and usually Bunda. also spelled Embagai), the still-active Ol
www.serenahotels.com; s/d all-inclusive US$870/1340; between Ngorongoro Crater and central or Doinyo Lengai (2878m, ‘Mountain of God’
s) Kirawira, set on a small rise about western Serengeti. Walking safaris are possi- NGORONGORO CONSERVATION AREA in Maasai) and of course, Ngorongoro
90km west of Seronera, is more open and ble in the surrounding NCA. In addition to %027 (2200m). The main residents of the area
somewhat tamer in feel than Grumeti, NCA fees, you’ll need to pay Serengeti fees The world-renowned Ngorongoro Crater is are the Maasai, who have grazed cattle here
with luxurious tents in what its advertis- any time that you cross into the park. just one part of a much larger area of inter- for hundreds of years.
ing describes as an ambience of ‘colonial related ecosystems consisting of the beau-
opulence’. SOUTHWESTERN SERENGETI tiful Crater Highlands together with vast TREKKING IN THE CRATER HIGHLANDS
Other recommendations: Kusini Camp (%027-250 9816; www.sanctuarylodges stretches of plains, bush and woodland. The Apart from Ngorongoro Crater, much of
Serengeti Stop Over Point (%0748-406996; www .com; s/d all-inclusive US$485/770) Laid-back luxury entire NCA covers about 8300 sq km and the Crater Highlands area is remote and
.serengetistopover.com; camping US$5, tent rental per in a good wet-season setting amid rocky encompasses Olduvai (Oldupai) Gorge, the seldom visited, although it offers some of
person US$10, s/d US$20/30) A camping ground along outcrops in the very remote southwestern alkaline Lakes Ndutu and Masek (although Tanzania’s most unusual scenery, as well as
the Mwanza–Musoma highway about 1km from Ndabaka Serengeti. Ndutu is actually just over the border in the good trekking. For all routes, you’ll need to
ὈὈὈὈὈ
198 N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • N g o r o n g o r o C o n s e r v a t i o n A re a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • N g o r o n g o r o C o n s e r v a t i o n A re a 199
Ngorongoro Conservation Area
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
NGORONGORO CONSERVATION AREA 0
0
20 km
12 miles Ngorongoro Crater Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge (%254 4595, 254 4795,
With its blue-green vistas, close-range or direct %253 7058/73; www.hotelsandlodges-tanzania
A B C D
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Lake
Natron viewing opportunities and unparalleled .com; r per person full board US$180) Straightforward
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Ngorongoro Crater Lodge............7 A3
NCAA Headquarters..................1 A4 Ngorongoro Safari Resort.........(see 13)
concentrations of wildlife, Ngorongoro is rooms and a beautiful setting on the south-
6
Olduvai Museum.......................2 A2 Ngorongoro Serena
S a lSafari
e Lodge..8 A3 Gelai one of East Africa’s most visited destina- ern rim of the crater.
t a ins Ngorongoro Wildlife
P l a i Lodge.......... 9 B4 (2941m)
1 ou n n Ngare Sero Village tions. At about 20km wide it’s also one of Ngorongoro Crater Lodge (www.ccafrica.com; per per-
SLEEPING
M Octagon Safari Lodge................10 B4 Lombori
1200
l
the largest calderas in the world. Within son all-inclusive US$630) This lodge – actually three
0
ELCT
o Karatu Lutheran Hostel..(see 13) Emowoengoilil
Plantation Lodge........................11 B4
210
1800
1500
G
Gibb's Farm...............................3 B4 Hill
Simba A Ordinary Campsite.......12 A3 Gelai-
its walls is an astounding variety of ani- separate camps – is the most interesting in
1200
Kisima Ngeda.............................4 A4 Lumbwa
Gelai
Sero
Kudu Campsite & Lodge............5 B4 EATING Meru-goi
mals and vegetation, including grasslands, terms of design, with an eclectic collection
1500
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Lake Natron Camp.....................6 C1 Byte's Internet Pub & Café.........13 B4
swamps, forests, saltpans, a freshwater lake of styles and décor. Service and amenities
Gelai-
Ol Doinyo
Bomba and rich birdlife. You are likely to see lions, are ultra-top-end, and prices include your
Lengai
(2878m)
elephants, buffaloes and many of the plains own butler. It’s on the southwestern rim of
S e ren g e ti
Nairobi herbivores such as wildebeest, Thomson’s the crater.
Village
P l ains gazelles, zebras and reedbucks, as well as Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge (%250 4158/3;
Joins Serengeti
Kerimasi
National Park
2 hundreds of flamingos wading in the shal- www.serenahotels.com; s/d full board US$285/420) The
Map (p195)
Ngorongoro (2300m)
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Kitumbeini
Conservation Empakaai
Area Crater
(2865m) lows of Lake Magadi, the soda lake at the attractive and perennially popular Serena is
Lake
Empakaai 2100 crater’s base. Chances are good that you’ll in a good location on the southwestern rim
2 Olduvai
Gorge Olmoti Bulati
1800 also see a black rhino or two. of the crater, past Ngorongoro Crater Lodge
To Lake Ndutu & Lake Masek (30km);
Crater
Embulbul
1500
1200
Despite the crater’s steepness, there’s con- and near the main crater descent route.
Depression Engaruka
Naabi Hill Gate (45km);
Seronera (95km); Musoma (340km); 27
00 siderable movement of animals in and out, Green Footprint Adventures (p92) organ-
Munge Waterfall 900
Mwanza (375km)
Olmoti Nainokanoka
Loolmalasin
(3648m)
thanks to the permanent water and grass- ises short hikes from the lodge, including
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
(3100m)
Munge
land on the crater floor. Wildlife shares the nature walks and day hikes to Olmoti.
3000 Engaruka
Losirua crater with local Maasai, who have grazing
3 2700 Basin
Makarot Ngorongoro &
rights, and you may come across them tend- GETTING THERE & AWAY
(3132m) Seneto Crater nt Rd Oljoro Nyuki 2400
Endulen
Descent Rd ce t
As scen
ing their cattle. The large, white Ngorongoro Crater bus
2400
Sadiman Lake
8 Magadi De C r a t e r 210 For fee information, see p197. Ngoron- trundles daily between Arusha’s central bus
0
Ilmisigiyo Highlands
12 Selela goro can be visited at any time of the year, station and NCAA headquarters (TSh4000,
210
7 18
00
0
18
00 Oldeani
(3216m) 1
Kitete but during April and May it can be wet and seven hours), departing Arusha at 10am and
1500 9 difficult to negotiate, and access to the crater Park Village (where vehicles can be hired)
Ngorongoro Lodoare Gate
i
as en
Ey rpm
t
Park Village 3 floor is sometimes restricted. at 7am. It’s also possible to get the bus in
1200
Burko
Es
ca 11
13 1500
150
0 The gates down to the crater floor open Karatu and Mto Wa Mbu.
Endamaga
10 Karatu Mto Wa Mbu at 7am, and close (for descent) at 4pm; all
4 5 1200
4
Ranger Post
Losiminguri
vehicles must be out of the crater area be- GETTING AROUND
Lake
Eyasi Lake 1800
fore 6pm. You can arrange guides and vehicle hire at
Village
Ghorofani
in s Manyara
Lake
1500 It can get quite chilly and raw on the NCAA headquarters for US$100/140 for a
Camp Site u nta National
ero
Mo Park Manyara 900 crater rim, so bring a jacket and come pre- half/full day; vehicle hire should be booked
Kid pared, especially if you’re camping. in advance. You can also hire vehicles in
Karatu for about the same price. The only
be accompanied by a guide, and for any- time you sort everything out, in the end it SLEEPING petrol between Karatu and Seronera (in the
thing except day hikes you’ll need donkeys works out about the same to go through a The only ordinary camp site is Simba A, Serengeti) is at NCAA headquarters, near
or vehicle support to carry supplies. tour operator. which has basic facilities (toilets and cold the Ngorongoro Crater.
Most visitors arrange treks through a There are no set routes. One popular op- showers) and isn’t that clean, but it has Only 4WDs are allowed down into the
tour company; expect to pay from at least tion is to start just north of Ngorongoro Cra- good views over the crater if you’re lucky crater, except at certain times during the dry
US$150 per person per day, including NCA ter and cross the highlands to finish at Ngare enough to be there when there’s no cloud season when the authorities may allow 2WD
entry fees. Alternatively, you can organise Sero near Lake Natron. This takes four days, cover. It’s along the road from Lodoare vehicles to enter. All roads into the crater, ex-
things directly with the NCAA, although but can be cut to three by starting at Nain- Gate, and not far from NCAA headquar- cept the road from Sopa Lodge on the eastern
you’ll need to give at least one month’s no- okanoka, or extended one more day to climb ters. There are also numerous special camp side, are steep, so if you’re driving your own
tice for overnight hikes, as well as provide all Ol Doinyo Lengai. For something shorter sites, including a cluster of sites near Lakes vehicle, make sure it can handle them.
camping equipment and supplies yourself, and less expensive, try hiking at Makarot or Ndutu and Masek, and one near Empakaai.
including water, plus hire a vehicle (essen- Oldeani, or at Empakaai or Olmoti Craters. Bring all your supplies from either Karatu Karatu
tial for accessing all treks). The NCAA takes All can easily be done in a day from a base or Arusha. %027
care of arranging the camp sites, guides and at Ngorongoro Crater and, apart from trans- There are several lodges on or near the This small, scruffy town about 15km east of
donkeys. Everything is usually based from port costs, involve only the NCA entry and crater rim – ideally positioned to minimise Lodoare Gate is surrounded by some beau-
designated Maasai ‘cultural bomas’, each guide fees. There are no camps apart from travel time down to the crater floor. They tiful countryside, and makes a convenient
of which has a TSh5000 entry fee. By the the facilities at Ngorongoro Crater. include the following: base for visiting Ngorongoro.
TA N Z A N I A 200 N O R T H E R N TA N Z A N I A • • N g o r o n g o r o C o n s e r v a t i o n A re a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com L A K E V I C T O R I A 201
TA N Z A N I A
There is a post office, an NBC branch place, with spacious, well-appointed cottages about the origin of the ruins; some say they are believed to have lived here for nearly
that exchanges cash and travellers cheques set in green and expansive grounds, large ve- were built by ancestors of the Iraqw (Mbulu) 10,000 years and who continue to follow
and has an ATM, and Bytes Internet Café (per randas with views over the hills, a crackling people who live in the area today, while others hunting-and-gathering traditions. Also in
hr TSh2000; h8am-11pm), which is also good fireplace and a cosy, highland ambiance. It’s suggest that the site was built by the Sonjo, a the area are the Iraqw (Mbulu), a people
for food. about 2km north of the main road. Bantu-speaking people. of Cushitic origin who arrived about 2000
Octagon Safari Lodge (%253 4525; www.octagon The local Cultural Tourism Program offers years ago, as well as the Maasai and various
SLEEPING & EATING lodge.com; r per person full board US$100) A good, new tours of the ruins, a two-day hike to Mt Ol Bantu groups. The area is Tanzania’s main
Budget place just off the main road, with airy cot- Doinyo Lengai or a day climb of Mt Keri- onion-growing centre, and there are impres-
In addition to the following listings, there tages set in attractive grounds, a restaurant masi (2614m). Contact the program guides sive irrigation systems along the Chemchem
are several basic guesthouses in the centre of and a cosy pub. through the tourist information office in Aru- River near the village camping ground. The
town, all of about the same standard, and all sha, or at Jerusalem Campsite in Engaruka. main village is Ghorofani, at the lake’s north-
with rooms for about TSh3000. GETTING THERE & AWAY There are several camping grounds, in- eastern end.
Ngorongoro Safari Resort (%253 4059, 253 4287; In Karatu, the bus stand is at the western end cluding one in Engaruka village, and the nicer Although visitor numbers are relatively
[email protected]; camping US$5, s/d US$65/80) of town, behind the Total petrol station. Jerusalem Campsite just after the river, on the small, Eyasi is gaining in popularity as a
Good, though crowded, camping facilities, left near the Engaruka Juu primary school. detour on a Ngorongoro trip. Guides can be
hot showers, overpriced rooms and meals Olduvai Gorge Pick-ups go sporadically to Engaruka, easily arranged if you’re interested in visit-
from TSh2500. It’s on the main road in the Olduvai Gorge is a canyon about 50km long usually departing Mto Wa Mbu in the late ing nearby Hadzabe communities; plan on
town centre. Car hire to Ngorongoro or and up to 90m deep running to the north- afternoon and Engaruka around dawn. It’s paying about TSh15,000 per small group.
Lake Manyara costs from US$110/120 per west of Ngorongoro Crater. Thanks to its possible to hike in from Empakaai Crater, Near the Chemchem River and 2km from
half/full day. unique geological history, in which layer but you’ll need a guide from the NCAA. Ghorofani is a village camping ground (TSh3500),
ELCT Karatu Lutheran Hostel (%253 4230; s/d/tr upon layer of volcanic deposits were laid with a small spring. About 5km further on,
TSh16,000/22,000/32,000) The Lutheran Hostel down in orderly sequence over a period of Lake Natron in a sublime setting on the lakeshore with
has simple, clean rooms with hot water, and almost two million years, it provides remark- Lake Natron, on the Kenyan border, is an doum palms in the background, is Kisima
good meals. It’s on the main road at the able documentation of ancient life. alkaline lake known for the huge flocks of Ngeda (% 027-253 4128, 027-254 8840; kisima@
western end of town. The most famous of Olduvai’s fossils is flamingos that gather here at the end of the habari.co.tz; camping US$5, s/d luxury tented bungalow
Kudu Campsite & Lodge (%253 4055; kuducamp@ the 1.8-million-year-old apelike skull known rainy season. The surrounding area is re- full board US$170/270), with luxury tented bun-
habari.co.tz; camping US$6, s/d/tr bungalows US$95/100/110) as Australopithecus boisei, which was dis- mote, with a desolate, otherworldly beauty, galows overlooking the lake, and several
Kudu, at the western end of town, and just covered by Mary Leakey in 1959 and which and offers a rewarding – albeit very hot – camping grounds. For camping, stock up in
south of the main road, has a large lawn to gave rise to a heated debate about human off-the-beaten track excursion. It’s also Karatu. Land Rovers go daily between Ka-
pitch your tent, hot-water showers, bunga- evolution. The skull is also often referred to a good base for climbing the challenging ratu and Ghorofani (TSh2500, two hours),
lows and a bar. Meals can be arranged. as Zinjanthropus, which means ‘nutcracker Mt Ol Doinyo Lengai, 25km south. Dur- from where you’ll need to walk to the camp-
Bytes Internet Pub & Café (%253 4488; bytes@ man’, referring to its large molars. In 1972 ing much of the year, the swampy marshes ing grounds or pay extra to have the driver
afsat.com; meals from TSh4000; h8am-11pm) Freshly hominid (humanlike) footprints estimated around the lake’s banks make access dif- drop you. Alternatively, hitch a lift with one
squeezed juices, cappuccino and gourmet- to be 3.7 million years old were discovered at ficult, and at any time, you’ll need 4WD. of the onion trucks.
style meals are the attraction here. They Laetoli, about 45km south of Olduvai Gorge. There have been security problems here in
also do takeaway picnic lunches (three days
advance notice). It’s along the main road
behind the Crater Highlands petrol station.
Other lesser-known but significant fossils
excavated from the upper layers of Olduvai
provide some of the oldest evidence of Homo
the past, so ask locally for an update.
There’s a basic camping ground, as well
as Lake Natron Camp (%027-255 3242; www.moivaro
LAKE VICTORIA
For self-catering, there are several small sapiens in the area. .com; per person half board US$140/187), with straight- If it were it not Africa’s largest lake, and
supermarkets along the main road, includ- There’s a small museum (h8am-3pm) here forward en suite tents, and an adjoining the second-largest freshwater lake in the
ing Olduvai Supermarket and Karatu Mini- just off the road to Serengeti. It’s possible camping ground. The camp is the best con- world, it would be easy to overlook Lake
Market. to go down into the gorge, accompanied tact for organising treks up Ol Doinyo Len- Victoria. The Tanzanian part of this enor-
by a guide, which can be arranged at the gai, and can also help with arranging hikes mous patch of blue sees only a trickle of
SLEEPING & EATING museum. in the Crater Highlands. Advance bookings tourists; lakeshore towns, apart from a
Midrange & Top End As well as the standard fees applying to the are required. sleepy waterside charm, have little to hold
Gibb’s Farm (%253 4040; www.gibbsfarm.net; s/d half NCA, there’s an additional US$2 per person Lake Natron Camp can organise transfers passing visitors, and infrastructure lags
board US$147/208) The long-established Gibb’s per day fee to visit Olduvai Gorge, including to the lake from Mto Wa Mbu and Arusha; behind that in many other parts of the
Farm has a rustic atmosphere, a wonderful the museum. there’s no public transport. country. Yet, if you find yourself passing
setting with wide views over the nearby cof- through, and have a bent for the offbeat,
fee plantations and cosy garden bungalows, Engaruka Lake Eyasi the surrounding region holds a surpris-
and gets consistently good reviews, as does Engaruka, on the eastern edge of the NCA, Starkly beautiful Lake Eyasi lies between the ing number of attractions, including the
the cuisine. It’s about 5km north of the main is a small village known for its ruins of a Eyasi Escarpment in the north and the Ki- Bujora Cultural Centre near Mwanza; Bu-
road and signposted. complex and mysterious irrigation system dero Mountains in the south. It’s a hot, dry koba, the heartland of the Haya people;
Plantation Lodge (%253 4364/5; www.plantation with terraced stone housing sites estimated to area, around which live the Hadzabe (also and Rubondo Island National Park, for
-lodge.de; s/d half board US$135/187; s) A genteel be at least 500 years old. There’s speculation known as Hadzapi or Tindiga) people, who bird-watching and just relaxing about.
Ὀ
ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ
202 L A K E V I C T O R I A • • M w a n z a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com L A K E V I C T O R I A • • M w a n z a 203
Lake Victoria
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
LAKE VICTORIA 0
0
100 km
60 miles
FDS Pharmacy (%250 3284; Post St; h8am-11pm town, just off the airport road and sign-
To Kisii Mon-Sat, 9am-11pm Sun) At New Mwanza Hotel. posted.
St Dominic’s (Makongoro) Hostel (%250 0830;
Ὀ ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
UGANDA (15km)
MONEY
Nkurungu Mutukula
DBK Bureau de Change (Post St) At Serengeti Services s/d with shared bathroom TSh4000/6000, with private bath-
Ibanda Migori KENYA & Tours, and the easiest place to change cash or travellers room TSh12,000/15,000) Staid and spartan, this
GR Rumanyika Kyaka Isebania
Orugundu Bukoba cheques. church-run hostel has rooms with shared
GR Lukuba Sirari
LAKE VICTORIA Tarime To Narok
NBC (Liberty St) NBC changes travellers cheques. bathroom (no hot water), plus newer en
RWANDA Musoma (80km) Standard Chartered (Makongoro Rd) This bank is near suite ones (with hot water). Breakfast is
Bumbire the clock tower, and has ATMs. breakfast TSh1000. It’s about five minutes’
ὈὈ
Ὀ ὈὈὈ
Ukara Bologonya
Butiama
B6 Ikorongo Gate walk north of the clock tower roundabout,
Lake Lake Rubondo Island GR
To Kigali
(50km) Bisongu Burigi Ukerewe
NP Kibara- Bunda TELEPHONE off Balewa Rd.
Nansio Kisorya
Rusumu Maisome Kome Gr
um e TTCL (Post St; h7am-8pm) Operator-assisted calls. Lake Hotel (%250 0658; Station Rd; ground floor
Falls Burigi Mwanza t i Riv Ikoma
GR Muganza Itabagumba
Gulf Speke Gulf We
s te
er Gate s/d TSh7200/8400, upstairs d TSh15,000) Lake Hotel
Biharamulo Kagaye Lushamba r n Co
Ngara
Benako
GR
Kahunda Nyakaliro
Mwanza
Bujora
Ndabaka r r i d o r TRAVEL AGENCIES is ageing and tatty, but its shortcomings
Gate
Kabanga Biharamulo Nyamirembe Nkome
Nyanguge
In Mwanza you can book flights and trips are easy to overlook if you’ve just disem-
ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ
Rulenge Kamanga Kisesa Magu
Chato Sengerema Maswa
Serengeti Naabi to Rubondo Island and Serengeti National barked from a 40-hour haul on the Central
Sim
Kobero Busisi Kikongo NP Hill
Geita B163 Gate Parks, and hire a car. For a two-day, one- Line train. Upstairs rooms – complete with
iyu
Lusahunga
Nyankanazi
Ngudu
R i v e r night return trip to Seronera in Serengeti trickling hot-water shower, fan and net –
BURUNDI National Park, transport only, expect to are best, and management let three people
To Ngorongoro
Is a ng a Riv e r
Mo
Maswa Crater (30km)
B6 pay from US$350 per vehicle (four to six sleep in them for no additional charge.
yow
GR
B8
osi R
Ngorongoro
Conservation
persons) including petrol. It’s not that easy
Mwadui
ὈὈὈ
B3 to meet other travellers in Mwanza, so or- MIDRANGE & TOP END
i ve r
Kibondo Area
i
Shinyanga
eE
yas ganising a Serengeti safari here works best Hotel Tilapia (%250 0517, 250 0617; www.hoteltilaplia
Lak
Kahama if you’re already in a group. .com; Capri Point; d/ste from US$80/100;ais )
Moyowosi
GR Kigosi B6
Dolphin Tours & Safaris (%250 0096, 250 0128; Central Mwanza’s best hotel is in a breezy
GR
Nzega
LEGEND www.auricair.com; cnr Post St & Kenyatta Rd) setting overlooking the water on the eastern
To Kasulu (70km);
Kigoma (163km) To Tabora B3 To Singida
GR Game Reserve
NP National Park
Fourways Travel Service (%250 2620, 250 2273; www side of Capri Point. It has a lakeside ter-
(121km) (130km)
.fourwaystravel.net; Station Rd) Long-established agency race, a business centre, several restaurants
offering Rubondo and Serengeti safaris and vehicle hire. and your choice of rooms or bungalow-
The best way to explore the region is as Orientation Serengeti Services & Tours (%250 0061, 250 0754; style suites. A buffet breakfast is included
part of a larger East African loop combin- The central part of town can be easily cov- www.serengetiservices.com; Post St) Rubondo and Serengeti in the price, and credit cards are accepted
ing Uganda and/or Kenya with Tanzania’s ered on foot. To the west, and a short walk safaris, vehicle hire and general travel assistance. (5% surcharge).
northern circuit via the western Serengeti. from the clock tower, are the passenger- Tunza Lodge (%256 2215; [email protected];
As many lakeshore areas are infested with ferry docks and several banks and shops. Sleeping s/tw/d US$45/55/60) An agreeable anglers’ lodge,
bilharzia (p645), swimming from the coast- East of the clock tower area are more shops, BUDGET with cottages scattered over an expansive
line isn’t recommended. guesthouses and mosques; further east are The closest places for camping are Bujora lawn sloping down to the lake, and a res-
the market and bus stand. In the south- Cultural Centre (p206), or near the Ser- taurant (meals from TSh4000). It’s about
MWANZA western corner of town, about five minutes engeti’s Ndabaka Gate (p196). 8km from town and 2km from the airport.
%028 on foot from the clock tower, is the train There are many inexpensive guesthouses From town, take a daladala to Ilemela, from
Mwanza, one of Tanzania’s largest towns, is station. Just beyond here is Capri Point, in the town centre with serviceable singles/ where it’s a 2.5km walk (left) to the lake.
the economic centre of the lake region. The a small peninsula with lake views and an doubles for about TSh2500/3500 with New Mwanza Hotel (%250 1070/1; www.new
surrounding area – characterised by hills upmarket hotel. shared facilities, though most make their mwanzahotel.com; cnr Post St & Kenyatta Rd; s/d
strewn with enormous boulders – is home living from business by the hour. Try the TSh50,000/60,000; a ) This three-star place
to the Sukuma, Tanzania’s largest tribe. Information Kishamapanda Guest House (%42523; cnr Uhuru & with five-star aspirations is the only ‘proper’
At first glance, the town may put you off, INTERNET ACCESS Kishamapanda Sts). hotel in the town centre. The bland rooms
with its layers of dust in the dry season, mud Barmedas.com (Nkrumah St; per hr TSh1000; h8am- Christmas Tree Hotel (%250 2001; r TSh13,500) have TV, and there’s also a terrace-level
during the rains and a notable lack of things 8.30pm) Internet access. One block north of Nyerere Rd. Good-value rooms, each with a small dou- restaurant.
to ‘do’. But it’s a down-to-earth place with a Karibu Internet Café (cnr Post St & Kenyatta Rd; per hr ble bed, hot water and TV. Some have nets, Wag Hill Lodge (%250 2445, 0744-917974; www
low-key atmosphere, and most people who TSh1000; h8am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat, 9am- and there’s a restaurant. It’s in the town .waghill.com; per person full board & transfers to/from
spend time here come to like it. It’s also 5pm Sun) Internet access. centre just off Karuta St. Mwanza US$250; s) A good splurge for a
the best base for visiting Rubondo Island Hotel La-Kairo (% 250 0343/5; s/d TSh20,000/ getaway or if you’re an angling aficionado.
National Park. In the dry season Mwanza MEDICAL SERVICES 24,000) Friendly and family-run, this place Its three bungalows are nestled into a for-
is a possible starting or finishing point for Aga Khan Medical Centre (%250 2474; Mitimrefu St; is another good option. It has a restaurant, ested hillside on a peninsula jutting into the
a safari through the western Serengeti, though h24hr) Southeast of the bus station, behind the Ismaili and spotless rooms with fan. It’s found on lake. The price includes fishing and boat
don’t expect many budget deals. mosque and before Bugando Hospital. a small, leafy street around 4km out of transfers.
204 L A K E V I C T O R I A • • M w a n z a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com L A K E V I C T O R I A • • M w a n z a 205
Mwanza
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
MWANZA 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
Eating South Port, about 1.5km southeast of the
For street food, try the stalls opposite the centre; see p260.
A B C D post office, or the area along the train tracks To go by road from Mwanza anywhere
INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Street Food.......................................21 B4 near the ferry terminals. west or southwest, you’ll need to cross the
Aga Khan Medical Centre.................. 1 D5 Clock Tower.....................................11 B4 Street Food.......................................22 B5
Barmedas.com....................................2 C4 Szechuan Mahal...............................23 B4
Salma Cone (Bantu St; huntil 10pm) On hot Mwanza Gulf between Mwanza and Sen-
1 DBK Bureau de Change....................(see 8) SLEEPING days locals head here for soft-serve ice cream gerema. There are two ferries. The north-
Dolphin Tours & Safaris......................3 B4 Christmas Tree Hotel........................12 C5 TRANSPORT
FDS Pharmacy................................(see 16) Hotel Tilapia.....................................13 A6 Air Tanzania.....................................24 B4 and fast food. ernmost and more reliable Kamanga ferry
Fourways Travel Service......................4 B4 Kishamapanda Guest House.............14 B3 Akamba Bus Office.......................... 25 C4 Kuleana Pizzeria (% 256 0566; Post St; meals docks just south of the passenger ferry
Karibu Internet Café...........................5 B4 Lake Hotel........................................15 B5 Auric Air Charters.............................(see 3)
NBC Bank & ATM..............................6 D4 New Mwanza Hotel..........................16 B4 Bus Stand.........................................26 D5 TSh2000; h9am-9pm) Good food (pizzas, sand- terminal at Mwanza North Port, and de-
Post Office.....................................(see 10) St Dominic's (Makongoro) Hostel.....17 C2 Kamanga Ferry Terminal..................27 A4 wiches, yogurt, desserts, fresh-squeezed parts Mwanza daily at 8.30am, 10.30am,
Saa Nane Game Reserve Office..........7 A6 Local Transport Stand.......................28 C5
Serengeti Services & Tours..................8 B4 EATING Local Transport Stand (Airport & juices and more) and good vibes are the fea- 12.30am, 2.30pm (except Sunday), 4.30pm
Standard Chartered Bank & ATM.......9 B4
TTCL................................................10 B4
Imalaseko.........................................(see 9)
Kuleana Pizzeria................................18 B4
Ilemela)........................................29 B4
Mwanza North Port & Lake Ferries
tures here. Profits go to support the nearby and 6.30pm (TSh300/3600 per person/vehi-
Salma Cone......................................19 C4 Terminal.......................................30 A3 Kuleana Centre for Children’s Rights. It’s cle, 20 minutes). Departures from Kamanga
Street Food......................................20 A4 Precision Air......................................31 B4
Scandinavian Bus Office....................32 C5
near New Mwanza Hotel. are every two hours from 8am until 6pm,
2 To Mwaloni Port (2km); Szechuan Mahal (%40339; Kenyatta Rd; meals from except there’s no 2pm ferry on Sunday.
ὈὈ
Hotel La-Kairo (4km);
Tunza Lodge (8km); TSh6000; hdinner) If the drab exterior doesn’t The more southerly Busisi ferry operates
Ilemela (8km);
Airport (10km) Hospital
put you off, the delicately seasoned Chinese in theory until 10pm. Its eastern terminus is
food here is some of Mwanza’s best cuisine. at Kikongo, about 25km south of Mwanza.
17 Rd
lew
a Hotel Tilapia (%250 0517, 250 0617; www.hotel
Ba
LAKE tilaplia.com; Capri Point; buffet TSh4000, meals from BUS
VICTORIA TSh4000; hlunch & dinner) The Tilapia’s popu- All departures are from the main bus stand
Kuleana Centre
lar weekend lunchtime barbecue is an ideal near the market, except for Scandinavian
(Mwanza for Children's Rights Rd excuse to while away an afternoon sipping Express, which departs from the Scandina-
Gulf) ba
Rd
3 M ac h
em
a cold drink. Downstairs are several other vian office (%250 3315; Rwagasore St) just south
oro
restaurants with pricier á la carte dining. of the market; and Akamba buses, which
o ng
Imalaseko (Makongoro Rd) For self-catering, depart from the Akamba office (%250 0272), off
ak
M
30
come here. It’s in the CCM building near Mtakuja St near Majukano Hotel.
14
the clock tower. To Musoma, buses go throughout the
Ὀ
S t da
Ki shamapan
Cu
sto 29 day from 6am until about 2pm (TSh4000,
o St
ms 9 Uhuru
Rd Bantu St
Getting There & Away four hours); some continue to the Kenyan
Nkom
St
20 St 19
mah
25 AIR border.
St
Bismark 11 2
27
Nkru
Rock
Footbridge There are daily flights to/from Dar es Sa- To Geita, there’s a daily bus, usually con-
4 laam on Air Tanzania (%250 0046; Kenyatta Rd) tinuing to Biharamulo (TSh6500), from
uja
23 To Kisesa (17km);
31 16 18 6
Mtak
24 Libe Sukuma Museum & Bujora
21
8 5 Post St
rty
St Cultural Centre (20km); and to/from Dar es Salaam and Bukoba on where there are connections to Bukoba, Lu-
Hindu Serengeti National Park
3 Nyere (140km); Musoma Precision Air (%250 0819; [email protected] sahunga and on to Benako and Ngara for the
Kenyat
10 Temple re R
d (225km)
Mosque .tz; Kenyatta Rd). Coastal Aviation (%256 0443/1; Rwanda and Burundi borders. To Benako
Rd
ta
4
Hindu Temp [email protected]; Airport) flies twice weekly and Ngara, it’s just as fast to go via Shinyanga
le St
Temple between Mwanza and Rubondo (US$70). and Kahama (TSh6000, eight hours be-
Rd min
Market
15 28 tween Kahama and Benako). There are also
A
a Rd
Sheik
Rd
22
BOAT weekly buses direct from Mwanza to Ngara
Pamb
mba
Rd
Train
ta S
t
Passenger ferries connect Mwanza with (TSh10,500). To Muganza (for Rubondo Is-
n
26
io
Karu
Lumu
Station
at
5
St
12 Bukoba and with several islands in Lake land), there are several direct buses weekly
St
Mitim
Victoria, including Ukerewe and Maisome (TSh6000, eight hours).
asore
refu
St (for Rubondo Island). For schedule and fare To Bukoba, it’s best to do the trip in stages
Rwag
32
1 information see p262. A speedboat service via Biharamulo. The road journey is long
between Mwanza and Bukoba is planned and rough (until you get to Biharamulo,
Capri Point Rd
to start soon; check at North Port for an where it gets smoother), and almost every-
update. one takes the ferry or flies.
Ke
7
ny
Ferries to Bukoba use Mwanza North Port, To Tabora, Mohammed Trans goes daily
att
a
Rd
LAKE VICTORIA near the clock tower. For Ukerewe, most via Shinyanga (TSh8000, seven hours), de-
6 13 (Mwanza Gulf)
departures are from North Port, with spo- parting in each direction at 6.30am.
radic smaller boats leaving from Mwaloni, To Arusha and Moshi (TSh32,000 plus
To Wag
Mwanza Hill Lodge Central Line to Tabora (350km); To Mwanza South Port (700m);
about 2.5km north of the town centre off US$20 for a Kenyan transit visa) and Dar
Capri Yacht Club
Point
Kigoma (780km); Dar es
Salaam (1200km)
Kikongo & Busisi Ferry (30km);
Shinyanga (150km)
the airport road. Cargo boats to Port Bell es Salaam (TSh44,000 to TSh58,000 plus
(Uganda) and Kenya depart from Mwanza Kenyan transit visa costs, about 30 hours),
TA N Z A N I A 206 L A K E V I C T O R I A • • A r o u n d M w a n z a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com L A K E V I C T O R I A • • B u k o b a 207
TA N Z A N I A
the best route is via Nairobi (TSh23,000 to founded the museum. An English-speaking chimpanzees, hippos, crocodiles and even Island, just east of Rubondo). For Muganza,
TSh28,000 plus Kenyan visa costs), and the guide is available. elephants (which were introduced several there are several direct buses weekly from
best line is Scandinavian. Akamba also does There’s camping (TSh2500) on the grounds decades ago), as well as sitatungas, ‘am- Mwanza along a rough but reasonable road.
the route. Alternatively, you can try the long of the centre, and no-frills rooms (r per person phibious’ antelopes that like to hide among If you get stuck here for the night, there are a
and gruelling loop via Singida (TSh30,000, with shared bathroom TSh3000) with bucket showers; the marshes and reeds along the shoreline. few basic guesthouses. For both Nkome and
two days), traversed by Tawfiq, or – for a meals can be arranged with advance notice. Maisome, there are occasional ferry connec-
fleeting safari – go on Coast Line, which Bujora is about 20km east of Mwanza off Information tions; see p262. Nkome can also be reached
travels twice weekly between Mwanza and the Musoma road. Take a daladala to Igoma Park entry fees are US$20/5 per adult/child by bus via a rough road (allow a full day
Arusha via the Serengeti (TSh23,000, plus (TSh250), from where you can get a pick-up per day. For camping fees, see p113. There’s a from Mwanza); if you’re driving, you can
entry fees for Serengeti National Park and to Kisesa. Once in Kisesa, walk a short way US$50 per week sport-fishing fee. Camp-site leave your vehicle at the ranger post there.
Ngorongoro Conservation Area, 15 hours). along the main road until you see the sign bookings are best done via radio, arranged You’ll need to radio park headquarters in
Departures are currently at 5am Tuesday for Bujora Primary School (Shule ya Msingi through any Mwanza travel agency. advance to let them know you’ll be arriving
and Friday from Arusha, and at 6am on Bujora). Turn left and follow the dirt road Both the park and Rubondo Island Camp this way; in Mwanza, travel agencies or the
Monday and Thursday from Mwanza. for 2km to 3km to the cultural centre. organise chimpanzee tracking. However, if Saa Nane Game Reserve office near Hotel
To Kigoma, there are three buses weekly, your primary interest is chimps, the chances Tilapia can help you call, and there’s also
mostly via Biharamulo, with at least one Ukerewe of sightings and close-up observation are a radio at the police station in Muganza.
weekly via Kahama and Shinyanga. Buses %028 much better in Gombe Stream or Mahale Plan on paying about TSh40,000 per boat
depart at about 5am and arrive the next day Ukerewe Island lies in Lake Victoria, well Mountains National Parks. from Muganza, and up to double this from
if you’re lucky. away from Mwanza’s dust, and well off the Nkome or Maisome, although with some
See p257 and p259 for buses to Kenya beaten track. It’s known for its traditional Sleeping negotiating you may be able to get it for
and Uganda. healers and birdlife, and is agreeable for wan- The park has an ordinary camp site and less. Local fishing boats don’t generally enter
dering around and learning about local life. some nice double bandas on the lakeshore Rubondo, though if you sort out the permis-
TRAIN Gallu Beach Hotel (%251 5094; www.gallu.net; just south of park headquarters (at Kagaye). sions in advance with park headquarters, the
Mwanza is the terminus of a branch of the camping TSh1500; r TSh5600) is the best place to stay, There’s a tiny shop selling a few basics, but captains will give you a better deal (eg about
Central Line from Dar es Salaam. See p265. with simple rooms and meals. It’s located it’s better to bring all essentials with you. TSh10,000 from Maisome to Rubondo).
in Ukerewe’s main town, Nansio, and is an Rubondo Island Camp (%027-254 4109; www
Getting Around easy walk from the ferry. Staff can help you .flycat.com; s/d full board US$175/280, s/d all-inclusive except BUKOBA
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT organise excursions. fishing US$265/460; s) This intimate luxury camp %028
Mwanza’s airport is 10km north of town Ferries sail twice daily between Nansio has a lakeside setting, cosy en suite tents, tasty Bukoba, home of the Haya people, is Tanza-
(TSh5000 in a taxi). Daladalas (TSh150) and Mwanza’s North Port (TSh3500/2000 cuisine and a relaxing ambience. Excursions nia’s second-largest port on Lake Victoria.
leave from near the clock tower. in 2nd/3rd class, three hours). include guided walks, boat trips and fishing. It’s a small but bustling place with an attrac-
It’s also possible to reach Nansio from Ask about low-season discounts. tive waterside setting and a typical African
LOCAL TRANSPORT Bunda, about 30km north of the Serengeti’s small-town feel, and makes an agreeable stop
Daladalas for destinations along the Mu- Ndabaka Gate on the Mwanza–Musoma Getting There & Away en route to/from Uganda.
soma road, including Kisesa and Igoma road, which means that you can go from AIR
(for Bujora), depart from the Bugando Hill Mwanza to Ukerewe and then on towards Air charters can be arranged through Auric Information
stand, southeast of the market, while those Musoma or the Serengeti – or vice versa – Air Charters (%250 0096, 250 0128; www.auricair.com; Bukoba Cybercafé (cnr Jamhuri & Kashozi Rds; per hr
running along the airport road depart from without backtracking. Via public transport, cnr Post St & Kenyatta Rd), RenAir (%028-256 2069, TSh2000; h8.30am-10pm) Internet access.
near the clock tower. take any vehicle between Mwanza and Mu- 256 2215; www.renair.com; Mwanza Airport) or Coastal Kiroyera Tours (%222 0203; www.kiroyeratours.com;
soma and disembark at Bunda. From Bunda, Aviation (p205), all in Mwanza, or through Sokoine St) A keyed-in place opposite the market, and
AROUND MWANZA you can get transport to Kibara-Kisorya, any Mwanza travel agency. Costs are about an essential stop if you’re in Bukoba. They have informa-
Bujora Cultural Centre from where it’s a short boat ride to Uke- US$300/450 one way from Mwanza for a tion on nearby attractions, and can organise cultural and
(Sukuma Museum) rewe. Both the Mwanza–Nansio and Kibara- three-/five-seater plane. Coastal Aviation also historical outings in and around town.
If you’re interested in learning about Su- Kisorya–Ukerewe ferries take vehicles; the has twice-weekly flights connecting Rubondo Main post office Opposite the library on the southeast-
kuma culture, the Sukuma Museum & Bujora Kibara-Kisoria ferry runs throughout the with Arusha and Serengeti National Park. ern edge of town; has a fast Internet connection for TSh600
Cultural Centre (http://photo.net/sukuma; admission day between 8am and 6pm. per hour.
TSh3000; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 1-6pm Sun) makes a BOAT NBC (Jamhuri Rd) Changes cash and travellers cheques
worthwhile day trip from Mwanza. Among RUBONDO ISLAND NATIONAL PARK The cheapest way to reach the park is to and has an ATM.
other things, you’ll see traditional Sukuma Rubondo Island National Park, in Lake travel by ferry or bus to one of the villages TTCL (h7.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat) For
dwellings, the house of a traditional healer Victoria’s southwestern corner, is known on the lakeshore opposite Rubondo, from operator-assisted calls.
and the royal drum pavilion, built in the for its lovely tranquil atmosphere and its where you can arrange a boat pick up with
shape of the stool used by Sukuma kings. excellent birding. Close to 400 species park headquarters. The main villages for Sights
The church in the centre of the grounds have been identified here including the doing this are Muganza (on the mainland Along the lakeshore are some colonial-era
was built in 1969 by David Fumbuka Clem- fish eagle, heron, stork, ibis, kingfisher and southwest of Rubondo), Nkome (southeast buildings, now housing the university and
ent, the Quebecois missionary priest who cormorant. Keeping them company are of Rubondo), and Maisome (on Maisome government offices. At the eastern edge of
208 L A K E V I C T O R I A • • B u k o b a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com L A K E V I C T O R I A • • M u s o m a 209
Bukoba
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
BUKOBA 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
Eating MUSOMA
New Rose Café (Jamhuri Rd) A local institution, %028
To Uganda A B C D
ὈὈ
(80km); with inexpensive meals and snacks. Quiet Musoma, on the eastern shores of
Mwanza
(428km)
Za
m The restaurant at Yassila Hotel is the Lake Victoria, is capital of the Mara region
Lutheran za INFORMATION
m town’s main gathering spot, and why not, and an agreeable stopping point en route
Kashozi Rd
Cathedral St Bukoba Cybercafé...............................1 B1
1 Kiroyera Tours....................................2
Main Post Office & Internet................3
B2
B2
with lake views and tasty pepper steak, between Mwanza and Kenya. The surround-
Fup
iS NBC....................................................4 B2 grilled tilapia and other dishes. Spice Beach ing countryside is a melting pot of cultures,
t St
1
ha
ra TTCL..................................................5 B2 Hotel is also a good choice, with an equally with the Kuria, Jita, Luo, Taturu and many
s
Tupendane St
ia
B
Market
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES nice setting and slow service. In town, try more all rubbing shoulders.
Colonial-Era Buildings......................(see 7)
St
Lake Hotel.........................................6 D3
the restaurant at Walkgard Annex (meals The local NBC branch, four blocks south
15 J i ne
14 St am ko from TSh3500). of the main street, changes cash and travel-
Ar St
Clock University of Bukoba..........................7 C3
us
Kawawa Tower eyo13
hu So
ha
ri
Rd
Ismaili M M
ig
11 Rd 2
SLEEPING
For self-catering, there’s Fido Dido (Jamhuri lers cheques, and both NBC and the nearby
os 12
Mosque qu
e Catholic ELCT Conference & Training Centre...8 D3 Rd) or Cosmopolitan (Jamhuri Rd) nearby. CRDB have ATMs. For Internet, try Musoma
5 Mosque St 10 Cathedral Walkgard Annex................................9 B3
Mosque
3 4 Communications Centre (hdaily), just up from
2 To Walkgard Hotel (3km);
Kolping Bukoba Hotel (3km); To Airport (300m) Getting There & Away CRDB.
Ὀ
Kashura Area (3km) Sikh
Temple AIR
There are daily flights to/from Mwanza Sights
(TSh87,000) on Precision Air (% 222 0861; The Mwalimu Julius K Nyerere Museum (adult/
9
Bukoba Machinery Bldg; Kawawa Rd). Air Tanzania child/student US$3/1/2; h9.30am-6pm), about 45km
8
(%0748-737259; Global Travel, Jamhuri Rd) has a rep- southeast of Musoma in Butiama, is highly
resentative in Bukoba, although currently recommended for anyone interested in the
6
EATING no Bukoba flights. statesman’s life and in Tanzanian history.
Cosmopolitan Supermarket...............10 B2 Rd
Fido Dido Supermarket.....................11 B2 om
e It contains memorabilia from Tanzania’s
3 dr LAKE
New Rose Café.................................12 B2
Ae
ro 7 BOAT early postindependence days, Nyerere’s
VICTORIA There is passenger-ferry service between personal effects and a large collection of
TRANSPORT
Air Tanzania.....................................13 B2 Bukoba and Mwanza on the MV Victoria; photographs. Nearby are the Nyerere fam-
Bus Station.......................................14 A2 To Spice Beach Motel (200m);
Precision Air......................................15 B2 Yassila Hotel (500m); see p262. ily home and the graves of Nyerere and his
Ferry Port (1.5km)
parents.
BUS Take a minibus to Nyasho (TSh1000),
town near the lake is the old Lake Hotel – TV, minifridge and air-con, and the res- Bukoba’s roads are getting a face-lift, and from where you can get transport to Butiama
functioning in name only – where Ava taurant serves up good tilapia (Nile perch) you can now go on good Tarmac roads all (TSh1000). Taxis charge about TSh20,000
Gardner and Frank Sinatra reportedly en- grills and other dishes. the way to Kampala in Uganda. Heading return, including waiting time.
joyed a drink or two when filming Mog- Walkgard Hotel (%222 0935; www.walkgard.com; south, the road is Tarmac as far as Bihara-
ambo in the area northwest of the Kagera s/d/ste US$30/40/60; ais) This three-star mulo. All the bus companies and their ticket Sleeping & Eating
River near the Uganda border. place is Bukoba’s top of the line, targeted offices are based at or near the bus station Tembo Beach Hotel (% 262 2887; d with shared
primarily at local business clientele and (Tupendame St). bathroom TSh11,000, with private bathroom TSh16,500)
Sleeping conferences. Check out a few rooms, as they Buses go daily to Biharamulo (TSh7000), Rooms here are reasonably clean, there’s a
BUDGET vary, though all come with full breakfast, from where you can catch onward transport small strip of sand out front, and the setting
ELCT Conference & Training Centre (%222 3121; TV and telephone. The hotel is inconven- to Lusahunga, and from there on to Ngara is ideal, with views of sunrise and sunset.
[email protected]; Aerodrome Rd; d/tr with iently located about 3km from the town or Benako and the Burundi and Rwanda It’s also the main stop in town for overland
shared bathroom US$12/18, large s/d with private bath- centre in the Kashura area (TSh2500 in a borders. trucks. The hotel is set on a narrow penin-
room US$20/30) A good, long-standing place taxi). To Kigoma, there’s a weekly direct bus via sula about 1.5km north of town; follow the
with clean, comfortable rooms and pleasant Walkgard Annex (%222 0935; s/d TSh20,000/25,000) Biharamulo and Kasulu, departing Fridays road from the CRDB bank north along the
grounds along the airport road near the Run by the same management that runs at 6am (TSh13,500, at least 12 hours), but edge of the lake.
lake. Breakfast costs extra. Walkgard Hotel, this is in the town centre. it’s faster to go to Biharamulo and catch Hotel Orange Tree (% 262 2651; Kawawa St;
Spice Beach Motel (%222 0142; s/d TSh8000/ Its rooms come with fan, net and TV. It’s onward transport from there. Depending s/d 6500/8500) A modest establishment on
12,000) This small guesthouse is at the south- about 300m southeast of the telecom build- on the security situation, you may or may the eastern edge of town with basic but
eastern edge of town near the port. It has ing on the western side of town. not be accompanied by an armed convoy clean rooms and a restaurant (meals from
one single with shared facilities, several Kolping Bukoba Hotel (% 222 0199; hotel@ between Lusahunga and Kigoma; for more TSh2000).
small en suite doubles – ask for one facing kolpingtz.com; s/d/ste TSh25,000/30,000/40,000) This see p257. Afrilux Hotel (%262 0031; s/d TSh15,000/20,000;
the lake – and a restaurant. hotel is just next to Walkgard Hotel, and To Mwanza, you can try making your a) This slightly garish, modern hotel is
gives it stiff competition. Rooms here are way in stages via Biharamulo, but it’s better in a multistorey building about halfway be-
MIDRANGE similar value to those at the Walkgard, to take the ferry or fly. tween the lake and the bus stand in the town
Yassila Hotel (%222 1251; s/d TSh20,000/30,000; a) although often noisier, and meals can be To Kampala (Uganda), the best connec- centre. Rooms are good value, and there’s a
A popular hotel near the port. Rooms have arranged. tions are on Jaguar/Dolphin; see p259. restaurant (meals from TSh3500).
TA N Z A N I A 210 L A K E V I C T O R I A • • B u n d a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • Ta b o r a 211
TA N Z A N I A
Peninsula Hotel (%264 0119, 264 2526; Makoko rd; SHINYANGA A reliable place near the bus stand with with Bagamoyo and the sea. Known in its
s/d/ste TSh25,000/33,000/60,000; as) The Penin- %028 no-frills rooms and a restaurant. early days as Kazeh, it was the domain of
sula, which hovers between two and three Shinyanga would likely be relegated to com- Social Training Centre (%250 3464; s with shared famed Nyamwezi king Mirambo, as well as
stars, is the main upmarket option in the plete anonymity were it not the site of one bathroom TSh3500, with private bathroom TSh10,000) A the headquarters of infamous slave trader
town centre. Rooms are faded but plush in of the world’s largest diamond pipes (about clean, simple place run by the local Catho- Tippu Tib. A string of European explor-
a 1970s sort of way, and there’s a restaurant 45km northeast of town near Mwadui, lic diocese. It’s behind the TTCL building, ers passed through its portals, most nota-
(meals TSh5000). It’s about 1km from the and now operating at only a fraction of its and near the NSSF compound; meals can bly Stanley and Livingstone, and Burton
town centre on the Makoko road. former capacity) and a regional transport be arranged. and Speke. After the Central Line railway
Lukuba Island Lodge (%0744-090100, 027-254 hub. It has an NBC bank with an ATM, and Shana Resort, just west of the market, has was constructed, Tabora became the largest
8840; www.lukubaisland.com; per person full board plus an Internet café, both on the main road. good juices and local dishes, while Florida town in German East Africa.
transfers to/from Musoma US$230) If Robinson Cru- Places to stay include Mwoleka Hotel (%276 has the usual assortment of snacks, chicken Today it’s a useful transport junction
soe were a moneyed angler, this exclusive 2249, 276 3004; s/d TSh10,000/15,000, s/d ste TSh25,000/ and fries. where the Central line branches for Mwanza
retreat in the middle of Lake Victoria is un- 35,000), near the bus stand, and the similar and Kigoma; if you’re travelling by train,
doubtedly where he would choose to spend but slightly less pretentious Shinyanga Motel Getting There & Away you’ll probably need to spend at least a day
his days. It makes an excellent getaway, (%276 2458; r with fan TSh15,000, with air-con & TV There are at least two daily buses along the here.
with wonderfully rustic bungalows, and the from TSh20,000; a), near the train station. For mostly unpaved route between Singida and NBC Bank (Market St) changes cash and travel-
chance for hiking, birding, boating and fully something less expensive try Shellatone Hotel Arusha (eight to 10 hours), but it’s better lers cheques, and has an ATM. For Internet,
equipped fishing. Advance reservations are (d TSh7000), near the bus station. to break the trip at Babati or Katesh (for try MI Internet Café (Lumumba St), just east of the
required. Shita’s (meals from TSh2000) has inexpensive, Mt Hanang). Daily buses also run between bus stand.
Mara Dishes Frys (meals from TSh1000) This local piping-hot plates of rice and sauce and other Singida and Dodoma (eight to 12 hours), but
favourite, around the corner from the NBC, local fare. it’s better to take the train (see p265). There’s Sights
is good for plantains or chicken and chips. Precision Air flies five times weekly be- also a daily direct bus between Singida and About 6km southwest of town in Kwihara
For self-catering, try Kotra in the town tween Dar es Salaam and Shinyanga (US$140 Dar es Salaam via Dodoma, departing in is Livingstone’s tembe (flat-roofed Arabic-style house;
centre. one way). Mohammed Trans goes daily to both directions about 6am (14 to 20 hours). admission TSh1500), where he stayed in 1872
Tabora (TSh6500, six hours, departing by after being found by Stanley in Ujiji. Now
Getting There & Away
Frequent buses and minibuses connect
Musoma and Mwanza, departing between
7am, book in advance) and to Mwanza
(TSh3500, three hours, several departures
between 6am and 8.30am).
WESTERN TANZANIA a museum, it houses a diary and other Liv-
ingstone memorabilia. Take any daladala
heading towards Kipalapala and have them
about 6am and 2pm daily (TSh3500, four The west is Tanzania’s rough, remote fron- drop you at the turn-off, from where it’s
hours). There are minibuses throughout the SINGIDA tier land, with few tourists, minimal infra- about 2km further on foot. Taxis from town
day to Sirari on the Kenyan border, where %026 structure, vast trackless expanses crossed charge about TSh7000 return.
you can change to Kenyan transport. Scan- Pretty Singida is well away from Lake Vic- only by the aging Central Line train and
dinavian Express (%262 0006), with its office toria, but it’s likely you’ll pass through it little to draw you here – unless you’re in- Sleeping & Eating
near Mara Dishes Frys, stops at Musoma on if you’re travelling between Mwanza and terested in chimpanzees. For this, and for Orion Tabora Hotel (%260 4369; cnr Boma & Station
its Mwanza–Nairobi–Dar es Salaam route Arusha via the rugged southwestern loop. watching wildlife in one of Tanzania’s most Rds; s/d TSh30,000/40,000) The old railway hotel
(TSh42,000/56,000 for semiluxury/luxury It’s also a possible detour from Babati and pristine settings, it’s among the best spots has been nicely restored, and is now the
between Musoma and Dar es Salaam, both Mt Hanang. on the continent. best place in town. Rooms have TV and
departing Musoma at 2pm). The surrounding area is dotted with huge Highlights include Jane Goodall’s world- nets, and there’s a restaurant-bar (meals
Daladalas run throughout the day be- granite boulders and two lakes – Lake Singi- renowned chimpanzee research station at from TSh3500). Staff are accommodating
tween the town centre and the Makoko dani (just north of town), and the smaller Gombe Stream National Park, the isolated if you’re travelling by train, and there is
section of Musoma. The daladala stand Lake Kindai (to the south) – both of which and beautiful Mahale Mountains National someone around to let you in for predawn
is along the road between town and the attract flamingos, pelicans and many other Park, wild Katavi National Park and Lake train arrivals.
airfield. water birds. Tanganyika itself, which is the world’s long- Hotel Wilca (%5397; Boma Rd; s/d TSh7200/8500)
An Internet café (per hr TSh2000) is just north est and second-deepest freshwater lake. Clean, quiet rooms (all with nets) and a
BUNDA of the market, and an NBC bank, near the Wherever you go, expect minimal tourist good restaurant. It’s at the northeastern
%028 post office, is on the northern side of town. facilities and rough, rugged travel, with edge of town along Boma Rd.
Bunda is a minor transport hub that you’ll train, boat and truck often the only trans- Moravian Hostel (%260 4710; Mwanza Rd; tw
probably pass through if you’re heading to/ Sleeping & Eating port choices. with shared bathroom TSh3000, s/tw with private bathroom
from Kenya or Ukerewe Island, or coming Legho Singida Motel (% 250 2526; r TSh11,500) TSh5000/6000) A good shoestring deal, with
from the western Serengeti. The bus stand is Quieter than the Stanley Hotel, and one of TABORA spartan twin-bedded rooms with nets. Break-
along the main Mwanza–Musoma highway. the better places to stay. It’s on the north- %026 fast costs TSh1000. It’s northwest of the cen-
CN Motel (%262 1064; small/large s TSh6000/9000) ern edge of town, with a nice garden and Tabora – a sleepy town basking in the tre and about 2.5km from the train station.
is at the northern edge of town along the a restaurant. shade of mango and flame trees – was Head along Lumumba St and turn right just
main highway, and has meals and clean Stanley Hotel (%250 2351; s/d with shared bath- once a major trading centre along the old behind the market. The hostel is about 300m
rooms. room TSh6000/8000, d with private bathroom TSh12,000) caravan route connecting Lake Tanganyika down on the right, next to the church.
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
212 W E S T E R N TA N Z A N I A www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • Ta b o r a 213
Western Tanzania
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
WESTERN TANZANIA 0
0
100 km
60 miles
Golden Eagle (%260 4623; Jamhuri St; s/d with- BUS
To Lusahunga
out bathroom TSh8000/9000, d with TV from TSh15,000) Mohammed Trans runs between Tabora
To Gitega To Lusahunga (95km);
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
(150km) Run-down but reasonable rooms with fan, and Mwanza, departing daily in each direc-
Isang
(15km) Biharamulo (130km);
Bukoba (300km)
food, and a convenient location near the tion at 6.30am (TSh8000, 7½ hours). Head-
a River
Kibondo
To Bujumbura
Shinyanga bus stand. ing east, you can disembark at Nzega (which
B3
(30km) Kahama To
Mwanza
Aposele Guesthouse (%260 4510; d with shared is also serviced by daily Land Rovers), and
Rutana
Kigosi (200km) bathroom TSh4000, s/d with private bathroom TSh4000/6000) then catch a bus on to Singida, though this
Game
BURUNDI
Reserve Large, no-frills rooms on a small side street means an overnight in Nzega. It’s possible
off Station Rd, just a few minutes walk from to drive between Tabora and Mbeya (4WD
Moyow
Moyowosi
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Makamba Game
B8 Reserve Nzega the train station. only), but it’s a long slog, and the route is
osi River
Nyanza-Lac
Kagunga
To Singida Mayor’s Restaurant & Ice Cream Parlour (cnr serviced by three to four buses weekly dur-
Malagar
(180km)
Mitumba
Ig
om
Market & School Sts; snacks from TSh500, meals TSh1000; ing the dry season. To Kigoma, the only
Gombe Stream
Kasulu be
Ri hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) A great stop for option is the train.
asi
National Park ve
Kibirizi Riv
er
r
B6 snacks, including fresh pineapple juice and
Kigoma
soft-serve ice cream, plus samosas and light TRAIN
ὈὈ ὈὈ
Ujiji Lake
Nyagamoma Kaliua Tabora meals. Tabora is the main Central Line junction
Malagarasi Rive
r
Lake
For self-catering, try Cash & Carry Super- for trains north to Mwanza, west to Kigoma
Uvinza
Sagara Kipalapala
market (%260 4327; Jamhuri St). and south to Mpanda; see p265. Trains from
Mpanda reach Tabora about 3am, trains
r
Getting There & Away from Kigoma and Mwanza arrive by about
r
Mtam
ve
ve
Ri
Ri
a
ua
Lu al AIR 5am, and trains from Dar es Salaam reach
bo
ah
gu W
Ny
ὈὈὈὈὈ
fu
Ri
ve
Mishamo
la River
Sikonge
Precision Air (%260 4818; Lumumba St) stops at Tab- Tabora by about 9pm. Travelling between
r gal
U ora five times weekly on its flights between Kigoma and Mwanza, you’ll need to spend
Kat
Lue Ugalla River
gele Game Reserve Dar es Salaam and Kigoma. Their office is the day in Tabora, and to reconfirm your
am
Lagosa Ri
ve
bik
Bilenge r near the market. The airport is about 5km onward reservation. If you arrive in the
i Ri
Riv
Kasiha Mt Nkungwe Lim south of town. middle of the night, ask the taxi driver to
ver
er
Kasoge (2462m) ba L
imb
Mahale a River
Mountains Sh
Kangwena National Park am 0 200 m
TABORA
ὈὈὈ
Mpanda a
Rive 0 0.1 miles
Kibwesa r
Gongoni St
6 A B To Kigoma C To Mwanza D
Mw
Lake Sitalike 5 (330km)
Bo
(350km)
anz
Katavi
Ru
m
Ikola To Singida
aR
fit
a R
Katavi (290km)
a
Kazima Rd
d
Karema
St
National
Park Kitunda Stadium To Nzega (95km);
Ifu Malambo
et St
River
a St Singida (275km);
m
e Rungwa 1 Manyem Hindu Mwanza (350km)
ὅὅ
Mark
Lake Ujiji Temple
Co
Balewa St
ὈὈ
Ri
r 10
a
Chada Rd
Rive ro
Lukim
ver
gwa 1 na
La
Run Uhuru St Mosque a St tio
ὅὅ
umb
Bom
Market 2 n
Pit Lum
ke
Kirando Rukwa iR Rd
Train
a R
Game ive 9
r 4 8 11 Station
DEMOCRATIC Reserve Salamini St
d
ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Kipili
Ta
REPUBLIC OF
Namanyere Station Rd
ng
THE CONGO Kipembawe
Catholic 7
B8
ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
u
an
Cathedral
a ng Lake
3
Playing
ar Rd Field
St
yi
M Rukwa Jam
ὈὈ
ts B6 ia
mbo
hu To Dodoma (340km);
ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ka
ri m
on St te Dar es Salaam (740km)
Wampembe Sumbawanga Ite
Ng'a
M 2 Sc
ho
ol
St
ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Kala
Some Minor Roads
Kalambo
Fundikira Rd
Lake not Depicted St Stephen's
River Mpui
ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Rukwa Church
Rd
Makongolosi
Kasanga
ll
Hi
Chunya
Kalambo
Falls To Iringa Ki
Sumbu (300km); lim
Game Mpulungu Playing at
Reserve Dar es Salaam in
(820km) INFORMATION Field de
Mo
MI Internet Cafe...........................1 B1 Rd
Mbala Mbeya
mb
A104 NBC Bank.....................................2 A1 EATING
a
Cash & Carry Supermarket..................8 B1
3
Ri
SLEEPING Mayor's Restaurant & Ice Cream German
ZAMBIA
ve
Aposele Guest House...................3 C2 Parlour............................................9 A1 Boma
r
Tukuyu Golden Eagle................................4 A1
Tunduma To Karonga
Hotel Wilca...................................5 B1 TRANSPORT To Livingstone's Tembe
Moravian Hostel...........................6 A1 Bus Stand & Taxi Stand.....................10 A1 & Kwihara (6km);
To Lusaka (60km) Kipalapala (10km); To Airport
To Lusaka Orion Tabora Hotel......................7 C2 Precision Air Office...........................11 B1
(800km) (900km) Rungwa (280km) (5km)
Tabora
214 W E S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • U v i n z a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • K i g o m a 215
Kigoma
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
wait until you’re sure that there’s someone TSh3000; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) just up from the KIGOMA 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
around at your hotel to let you in. train station. Baptist Mission Hospital (%280 To Kibirizi & Lake Taxis to
2241) is near the airport, and NBC (Lumumba A B Gombe Stream National Park (2km) C D
UVINZA St) changes cash and travellers cheques, and Lake Tanganyika
14 Train
Station ya
Rd
Kiez Catholic
Salt production has kept Uvinza on the map has an ATM. Shree Hindu
6 Church
for at least several centuries, and the town is 1 Mandir
1
still one of Tanzania’s major salt-producing Sights & Activities 9 Stanle
y Rd
areas. To visit the Uvinza salt factory, you’ll Kigoma’s lively market abounds with pro- To Kigoma Hilltop d 8
Lum
3
Hotel (2km); Chimpanzee y aR
need to arrange a permit at the entry gate. duce and is worth a stroll, as is the colourful Safaris (2km); Jakobsen's Beach, 7 Ka
umb
12
Camp site & Guest House (5km); Tanesco 2
For lodging try Sibuondo Guest House (r with fishing village of Kibirizi, which is 2km north
a S
Zungu Beach (6km) Generator Kakolwa Av
e
13
t
shared bathroom TSh5000) in the town centre. of town and best visited in the early morn- Market
Uvinza is about two hours southeast of ing when the fishing boats pull in. In town, 15
Kigoma via the Central Line train. There’s watch for the stately German-built train sta- 5
no regular public transport to/from the tion at the base of Lumumba St.
town; expect to pay about TSh2500 for a Several kilometres southwest of town on 2 11
lift with a lorry from Uvinza to Kasulu, from the lake is the tiny but attractive Jakobsen’s 1.5km
where there are daily minibuses to Kigoma Beach (admission TSh3000), reached via steps 10 To Mwembe Togwa
(300m); Kasulu (95km)
(TSh2500). Trucks also run between Uvinza down a vegetated hillside. The beach is INFORMATION
Baby Come 'n' Call.............................1 C1
and Mpanda (about TSh5000, one day); private, but nonmembers can use it for a Consulate of Burundi..........................2 C1
Mwanga
Area
stock up before setting off. daily fee of TSh2000, and the lake here is Consulate of Democratic
Republic of the Congo...................3 C1
reportedly bilharzia-free. To get here, take Immigration Office.............................4 D3
KIGOMA a Katonga daladala from the train station NBC & ATM.......................................5 C2
Post Office.........................................6 D1 EATING
Maweni
Hospital
%028 roundabout and ask the driver to drop you Sunset Tours....................................(see 7) Ally's................................................11 C2
4
The scrappy but agreeable town of Kigoma at a signpost reading ‘Zungu Beach’; head 3 New Stanley.....................................12 C1
SLEEPING
sprawls along the lakeshore in a green and uphill for about 2.5km to the fork; Jakob- Aqua Lodge........................................7 B1 TRANSPORT
tropical waterside setting. It’s the major sen’s is about 1.5km further to the right. Kigoma Hotel.....................................8
Lake Tanganyika Beach Hotel.............9
C1
B1
Daladala & Taxi Stand......................13 D2
Ferry Port..........................................14 B1
To Baptist
Mission
Tanzanian port on Lake Tanganyika, the end Zungu Beach (admission TSh500) – also tranquil, Zanzibar Lodge................................ 10 D2 Precision Air.....................................15 D2 To Ujiji (7km);
Uvinza (140km)
Hospital (1km);
Airport (3km)
of the line if you’ve slogged across the coun- though with stones, rather than sand – is
try on the Central Line train, and the best about 1km from the signpost to the left.
starting point for visits to Gombe Stream MIDRANGE & TOP END Eating
and Mahale Mountains National Parks. For Sleeping Kigoma Hilltop Hotel (%280 4435/6/7; www.kigoma New Stanley (Kakolwa Ave; meals TSh2500; hlunch &
much of Kigoma’s past it was overshadowed BUDGET .com; s/d full-board & airport pick-up from US$90/140; dinner) This is several steps up from Ally’s in
by Ujiji to the south, only coming into its There’s camping at Jakobsen’s Beach (see ais) Kigoma’s best hotel, with a prime price and ambience, with reasonable grilled
own with the building of the Central Line Jakobsen’s Guest House listing, opposite). setting on an escarpment overlooking the chicken/fish and other staples, plus a popular
railway terminus. In recent years, with the Lake Tanganyika Beach Hotel (%280 4894; s/d lake, comfortable cottages with minifridge disco for postmeal entertainment.
upheavals in nearby Democratic Republic TSh10,000/15,000) This hotel’s setting is ideal – and TV, and a restaurant. Ally’s (Lumumba St; meals TSh1000) A local favour-
of the Congo (DR Congo), Rwanda and Bu- overlooking a long lawn sloping down to the Aqua Lodge (%280 2408; [email protected]; s/d ite, with piping hot wali maharagwe (rice
rundi, the surrounding area has become a lake – but the rooms have become quite run TSh15,000/18,000) A long-standing place with and beans), or ugali and sauce.
major refugee centre. down. There’s a reasonable restaurant and good-value rooms (breakfast costs extra) and
a very loud Saturday night disco. It’s about a restaurant. It’s at the western edge of town, Getting There & Away
Information 1km west of town, off Kakolwa Ave and past opposite the Tanesco generator. AIR
There are consulates for Burundi (Kakolwa St) the port. The hotel is slated for renovations, Jakobsen’s Guest House (%0741-534141; ferie There are five flights weekly between Dar es
and DR Congo (Kaya Rd), both southwest of the so prices may rise along with standards. [email protected]; accommodation per family for first/ Salaam and Kigoma, usually via Tabora, on
roundabout near the train station. See p252 Zanzibar Lodge (%280 3306; r TSh3500-9500) succeeding nights TSh45,000/30,000 plus extra charge per Precision Air (%280 4720, 280 3166). Chimpanzee
for visa details. An immigration officer is Clean and decent value, if you don’t mind additional adult TSh10,000, electricity per hour TSh2500) Safaris (opposite) has several charter flights
posted at the port to take care of immi- being a bit out of town. Rooms vary so check This is a private guesthouse located well weekly connecting Kigoma with Arusha, and
gration formalities for travellers departing out a few, and for more quiet, ask for a room out of town near Jakobsen’s Beach (see with Mahale Mountains and Katavi National
for Zambia on the MV Liemba. To arrange away from the road. It’s about 2km from opposite), and generally rented out in its Parks, as well as regular charters between
boat hire, or visits to Gombe Stream and central Kigoma in the Mwanga area and eas- entirety. At the nearby beach, the same Kigoma and Kigali (Rwanda). The airport is
Mahale Mountains National Parks, contact ily reached via daladala. owners run a small camping ground about 5km southeast of the town centre.
Chimpanzee Safaris (%280 4435/7, 0741-620154; Kigoma Hotel (Lumumba St; r with shared bathroom (camping per adult per night TSh6000)
www.chimpanzeesafaris.com) at Kigoma Hilltop TSh4000) One of the cheapest places in the with ablutions, a grill, lanterns and a water BOAT
Hotel, or Sunset Tours (%280 2408; aqua@cats-net town centre, with a convenient location, supply. For both camping and the guest- Lake Ferries
.com) at Aqua Lodge. For Internet access, try grubby, noisy rooms, bucket baths and a house, you’ll need to bring along your own The venerable MV Liemba plies between
Baby Come ‘n’ Call Internet Café (Lumumba St; per hr sleazy bar. food from town. Kigoma and Mpulungu (Zambia); see p260.
TA N Z A N I A 216 W E S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • U j i j i www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • M a h a l e M o u n t a i n s N a t i o n a l Pa r k 217
TA N Z A N I A
For information on connections between said to have been grafted from the original where you’ll need to disembark. Bring high- MAHALE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK
Kigoma and Bujumbura (Burundi), see tree that shaded the two men during their speed film for use in the forest, as flashes Clear, blue waters, white-sand beaches
p260. encounter. There’s also a small museum (entry aren’t permitted. backed by lushly forested mountains, chal-
free, donation appreciated) housing a few pictures lenging wildlife watching and unrivalled
Lake Taxis by local artists of Livingstone scenes. The Sleeping remoteness are the draws at Mahale – Tan-
Small, motorised lake ‘taxis’ connect villages site is signposted to the right of the main There is a hostel (per person US$10) and a some- zania’s most isolated park. Like Gombe
along the lakeshore as far north as the Bu- road coming from Kigoma; just ask for Liv- what nicer resthouse (per person US$20), which Stream to the north, Mahale is primarily
rundi border, including a stop at Gombe ingstone and the daladala driver will make has nets; both are on the beach at Kasekela. a chimpanzee sanctuary, with a population
Stream National Park. They’re inexpen- sure you get off at the right place. You can also camp (camping US$20) on the beach, of about 700 chimps, plus roan antelopes,
sive, but offer no shade or other creature Prior to Livingstone, Ujiji enjoyed promi- although park staff don’t recommend it buffaloes, zebras and even some lions (al-
comforts, and are usually overflowing with nence as the main settlement in the region (a because of the danger from baboons, and though the lions are seldom seen).
people and produce. The taxis don’t stop at status it lost only after the railway terminus you’ll need to have a metal container for While the communities that have been
Kigoma itself, but at Kibirizi village, about was built at Kigoma), and as a major dhow- storing food. A small shop at park head- focal points of research are well habituated,
2km north of Kigoma; just follow the rail- building centre. Little remains today of Uji- quarters, north of Kasekela, sells drinks and they’re not as accessible as those at Gombe,
way tracks north. Alternatively, follow the ji’s former significance, but it’s worth a short a few basics, and it’s sometimes possible to although almost everyone who spends at
road uphill past the post office, turn left at visit if you’re in the area. About 500m past arrange inexpensive grilled fish meals with least a few days here comes away rewarded.
the top and continue straight for about 2km the Livingstone compound along the same staff. Otherwise, bring whatever you’ll need
(TSh1500 in a taxi). street is Ujiji’s beach and small dhow port. from Kigoma. Information
Ujiji is about 8km south of Kigoma and Gombe Luxury Tented Camp (%280 4435/6/7; Entry fees are US$80/30 per adult/child per
BUS connected throughout the day by daladala www.chimpanzeesafaris.com; s/d all-inclusive US$500/800) day. For camping fees see p113. Children
All of the long-distance buses depart from (TSh150). This relaxing camp is on the beach at Mi- under seven aren’t permitted in Mahale.
Mwembe Togwa, about 3km southeast of tumba in the northern part of the park, and Camping and park bandas can be booked
town; follow the Ujiji road to the airport GOMBE STREAM NATIONAL PARK makes a good splurge if you want some through the senior park warden (PO Box 1374,
turn-off, from where it’s about 500m down %028 comforts at the end of a hard, sweaty day Kigoma), or through Kigoma Hilltop Hotel
to the left, or take a daladala from the town With an area of only 52 sq km, Gombe tracking the chimps. It’s run by Kigoma (p215) in Kigoma, which can also help you
centre towards Mwandigo. Stream is Tanzania’s smallest national park. Hilltop Hotel in Kigoma, and they have contact park headquarters if you’ll be ar-
To Mwanza, there are three buses weekly, It is also the site of the longest-running transport-accommodation deals. riving independently. Guide fees are US$20
departing Kigoma about 5.30am (TSh15,000, study of any wild animal population in the per group; fishing permits cost US$50 per
at least 20 hours). Most go via Lusahunga world and, for those interested in primates, Getting There & Away person per day.
and Biharamulo, though there’s usually one a fascinating place. The only way to reach Gombe is by charter Park headquarters, where fees are paid,
weekly going via Kahama and Shinyanga. The Gombe Stream area was gazetted as boat or lake taxi. Lake taxis depart from are at Bilenge in the park’s northwestern
To Bukoba, there are several buses weekly, a wildlife reserve in 1943. In 1960 British re- Kibirizi (opposite) between about noon and corner. About 10km south of here are Kasiha
departing at 5.30am (TSh13,500, 10 hours). searcher Jane Goodall arrived to begin a study 3pm Monday to Saturday (TSh1000, three (site of the park camp site and bandas) and
The road to Mpanda is quite feasible dur- of wild chimpanzees, and in 1968 Gombe to four hours). Returning to Kibirizi, they Kangwena Beach (with two upscale camps).
ing the dry season (and sometimes during was declared a national park. Goodall’s study pass Gombe around 8am (which means Bring high-speed film for use in the forest;
the rains as well), though there’s no direct is now in its fifth decade. you’ll need to spend two nights at the park flashes aren’t permitted.
public transport apart from the occasional Gombe’s approximately 150 chimps are if travelling by public transport).
lorry. well habituated, which means that sightings Alternatively, you can arrange with local Sleeping
are almost guaranteed, and you can some- fishermen to charter a boat – and you’ll be There is a park camp site (US$20) and a cluster
TRAIN times get to within 5m of the them. Other besieged with offers to do so – although this of quite nice double bandas (US$20) at Kasiha.
The classic way to reach Kigoma (apart animals you may see include colobus and will be expensive. For a return trip, you may For both, bring everything from Kigoma, as
from sailing in on the MV Liemba) is with vervet monkeys, bushbucks, baboons and have to pay an advance for petrol (which there’s nothing available in the park.
the ageing Central Line train from Dar es bush pigs. If you’re serious about chimps, should not be more than one-third of the Mahale Camp (www.nomad-tanzania.com; per person
Salaam, Mwanza or Tabora. See p265. allow at least two days for a visit. total price), but don’t pay the full amount all-inclusive US$505; hmid-May–mid-Mar) This ex-
until you have arrived back in Kigoma. It’s clusive camp on Kangwena Beach offers
UJIJI Information common practice for local boat owners to what is probably the ultimate getaway, if
Tiny Ujiji, one of Africa’s oldest market Entry fees are US$100/20 per adult/child per try to convince you that there are no lake for no other reason than that it’s so remote.
villages, earned its place in travel lore as day. Guides cost US$20 per group per day. taxis, in an effort to get business. Accommodation is in six rustic thatched
the spot where explorer-journalist Henry Children aged under seven are not permit- Fast boats can be organised through Sun- tented bandas without electricity or run-
Morton Stanley uttered his famously casual ted in the park. Bookings for the hostel and set Tours (US$200 return per boat for up to ning water, although solar power and bush
‘Dr Livingstone, I presume?’ The site where resthouse can be made through Kigoma 15 passengers, plus a US$80 per night stop- showers mean you still have all the com-
Stanley’s encounter with Livingstone alleg- travel agencies, or directly through the sen- over fee) and Kigoma Hilltop Hotel (US$400 forts. The camp can only be booked through
edly occurred is commemorated by a plaque ior park warden (%280 2586). All tourism ac- return per boat for up to 20 passengers, plus upmarket travel agencies. Children under
set in a walled compound near a small gar- tivities are south of here at Kasekela, on the a US$50 per night stopover fee from the sec- 12 years are not permitted on chimpanzee-
den. Nearby are two mango trees, which are beach near the centre of the park, which is ond night onwards), both in Kigoma. tracking walks.
TA N Z A N I A 218 W E S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • M p a n d a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • S u m b a w a n g a 219
TA N Z A N I A
Nkungwe Luxury Tented Camp (%028-280 4435/ iently located, is Moravian Hostel (%282 0187; entry-fee payments, is just off the main road, point if you’re travelling between Zambia
6/7; www.chimpanzeesafaris.com; s/d all-inclusive US$500/ s/d with shared bathroom TSh2500/3000), just northeast about 1.5km south of Sitalike, on the park’s or Mbeya and Katavi National Park. East
800) Nkungwe camp, run by Kigoma Hilltop of the centre, with no-frills rooms, meals and northern edge. Park vehicles can be hired, of Sumbawanga, below the escarpment, is
Hotel in Kigoma, is on the beach north of bucket baths. if they aren’t being used by staff, at a rate the vast, shallow Lake Rukwa (p232), which
Kangwena and about 1km north of Mahale of US$1 per kilometre (minimum charge becomes two lakes during the dry season.
Camp. It has six comfortable double tents, Getting There & Away US$100) plus guide fees. Walking safaris
and makes a good-value alternative to Ma- BUS are permitted with an armed ranger. For Sleeping & Eating
hale Camp. Land Rovers to Katavi National Park and any visit, bring along thick, long-sleeved Moravian Conference Centre (%280 2853/4; confcen@
Sumbawanga depart in the mornings from shirts and trousers, preferably in khaki or atma.co.tz; Nyerere Rd; standard s/d TSh5000/10,000, ex-
Getting There & Away in front of Super City Hotel. Sumry bus line other drab shades (avoid anything bright, ecutive s/d TSh10,000/20,000) Clean, good-value
Mahale is on the lake about 130km south of departs Mpanda for Sumbawanga (TSh7500, very contrasting or very dark), as protection rooms and inexpensive meals. It’s about
Kigoma, and is reachable by plane or boat. seven hours) by noon on Tuesday, Thursday against tsetse fly bites. 1km from the town centre along the road
and Saturday, after waiting for the train. to the Regional Block area.
AIR Trucks ply the route towards Uvinza and Sleeping Upendo View Hotel (%280 2242; Kiwelu Rd; d
Kigoma Hilltop Hotel runs twice-weekly Kigoma fairly regularly, especially during There are several ordinary camp sites, in- TSh6500) Clean and centrally located, just
charter flights connecting Mahale with Kig- the dry season; allow at least 12 hours. Train cluding the well-situated Chada Campsite southeast of the bus stand. The main dis-
oma, Arusha and Katavi National Park. is the best option to Kigoma. near Lake Chada and Lake Katavi Camp- advantage (if you want to sleep) is that it
From Mpanda southwest to Karema and site, just west of the Sumbawanga–Mpanda doubles as Sumbawanga’s main nightspot.
BOAT Ikola (the main Lake Tanganyika ports in road, and the six-bed Chief Nsalamba Rest- Forestway Country Club (%280 2800; Nyerere Rd;
The MV Liemba stops at Lagosa (also called this area), there are occasional lorries, which house, about 2km from park headquarters. r TSh20,000) Sumbawanga’s only proper hotel
Mugambo), to the north of the park (US$25/ are usually timed to coincide with arrivals of Bring all provisions with you. also has a good restaurant. It’s 2km from
20/15 in 1st/2nd/3rd class, about 10 hours the Liemba ferry. Chada Katavi Camp (www.nomad-tanzania.com; per town on Nyerere Rd in the Regional Block
from Kigoma). From Lagosa, it’s possible to person all-inclusive US$445; hJun-Oct & mid-Dec–mid- area, past the Moravian Conference Centre
continue with small local boats to park head- TRAIN Mar) An absolute must for the well-heeled, (TSh1500 in a taxi from the bus stand).
quarters, about two hours further south, but A branch of the Central Line connects ruggedly inclined safari connoisseur, with Sim’s Restaurant (Kiwelu Rd; meals TSh1000) Cheap
not advisable as the Liemba reaches Lagosa Mpanda with Tabora via Kaliua; see p265. If just seven double tents and an unbeatably meals just opposite Upendo View Hotel.
about 2am or 3am. It’s better to radio park you’re heading to Kigoma or Mwanza from rustic atmosphere. It can only be booked
headquarters in advance from Kigoma and Mpanda, you can use Kaliua as the transfer through upscale travel agencies. Getting There & Away
arrange a pick-up. Kigoma Hilltop Hotel and junction, but as there are few guesthouses Katavi Wildlife Camp (% 0748-237422, 0744- Sumry line buses run daily between Mbeya
the Liemba office in Kigoma can help with and little to do, most travellers continue on 237422; www.tanzaniasafaris.info; s/d all-inclusive US$410/ and Sumbawanga via Tunduma (for Zam-
the radio call. The park boat costs US$50 per to Tabora and wait there. 700) A comfortable, rustic camp in a prime bia), departing in each direction between
boat (for up to about 15 people, one way), setting near Ikuu ranger post. 6am and 7am (TSh8000, six hours, book
although if the park is sending a boat up any- KATAVI NATIONAL PARK Katavi Hippo Garden Hotel (r per person US$30) In in advance). To Mpanda, Sumry has buses
way, you may be able to negotiate something Katavi, 35km southwest of Mpanda, is Tan- Sitalike village, just outside the park gate. departing Sumbawanga at 1pm on Monday,
better. Coming from Mpulungu (Zambia), zania’s third-largest park and one of its most Wednesday and Friday (TSh7500, seven
the Liemba passes Lagosa sometime between unspoiled wilderness areas. Its predominant Getting There & Away hours). There are also daily Land Rovers
late Saturday evening and early Sunday feature is an enormous flood plain, the vast, There are airstrips for charter flights in departing from the petrol station on the
morning around 3am or 4am. grassy expanses of which cover much of the Mpanda, Sitalike and at Ikuu ranger post main road starting about 7am (TSh8500).
Boat charters from Kigoma (arranged park’s northern section, and the seasonal near Lake Chada. Chimpanzee Safaris The road passes through Katavi National
through Kigoma Hilltop Hotel or Sunset lakes of which support large populations of (p214) runs twice-weekly charter flights Park, though it’s not necessary to pay park
Tours in Kigoma) cost from about US$1200 hippos, crocodiles and birds. The park comes connecting Katavi with Kigoma, Arusha fees if you are just in transit.
to US$2000 per boat return, including two to life in the dry, when the river and lakes dry and Mahale Mountains National Park.
to three days at the park. up and huge herds of buffaloes, elephants, Buses between Mpanda and Sumbawanga KASANGA & KALAMBO FALLS
lions, zebras, giraffes make their way to the will drop you at the gate, where vehicle hire The 250m Kalambo Falls, southwest of
MPANDA remaining pools in search of water. can be arranged (best done in advance). Sumbawanga on the Zambian border, is the
%025 Because of its remote location and com- Hitching is not permitted in the park. If second-highest single-drop waterfall in
Mpanda is of interest mainly as a starting pletely underpublicised attractions, Katavi you are driving, the closest petrol stations Africa. Several significant Stone Age ar-
point for visits to Katavi National Park. receives very few visitors. You’ll probably are in Mpanda and Sumbawanga. chaeological finds have been made in the
Super City Hotel (%282 0459; s/d TSh3500/5000) have the place to yourself, and are almost surrounding area. It’s possible to reach the
has clean rooms with nets, and a slow res- guaranteed to see animals. SUMBAWANGA falls from Kasanga; you’ll need to look for
taurant. It’s along the Sumbawanga road at %025 a lift towards the falls, and then walk for
the southern edge of town; from the train Information The peppy capital of the Rukwa region is set about four hours in each direction.
station, follow the tracks to the end, then Entry fees are US$20/5 per adult/child per on the fertile Ufipa Plateau at about 1800m There’s a very basic guesthouse (r with shared
take the first left and look for the multistorey day. For camping fees see p113. Park head- altitude in the far southwestern corner of bathroom about TSh2000) in the Muzei section of
building. Slightly cheaper, but less conven- quarters ([email protected]), for hut bookings and the country, and makes a useful stopping Kasanga.
TA N Z A N I A 220 T H E S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S • • D o d o m a www.lonelyplanet.com
Ὀ
www.lonelyplanet.com
Southern Highlands
T H E S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S • • D o d o m a 221
TA N Z A N I A
Trucks go sporadically between Sum- town where it meets Kuu St at a large round- THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS 0
0
100 km
60 miles
bawanga and Kasanga, and a bus meets the about. Just south of here are the railway To Arusha Kolo
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
Liemba arrivals. These are anywhere be- tracks, after which everything turns into Singida (252km)
tween midnight and 6am, although the boat small dusty lanes. To the north, a warren of Tabora
Kondoa
often remains at the dock until dawn. You’re small avenues run off Kuu St into the busi- Maasai
allowed to stay on board, but the boat pulls est part of town, with the market and lots of Steppe
out without much warning so ask staff to shops. Because of Dodoma’s many govern-
A104
wake you in time to disembark. ment buildings, photography is prohibited Sikonge
in most areas of town.
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ ὈὈ
THE SOUTHERN
Manyoni
Aga Khan Hospital (%232 1789; Sixth St; h8am- Meia Meia
Makutapora
8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun) On a small side street just
HIGHLANDS northeast of Food Junction. B129 Kongwa
DODOMA Kwadihombo
Aladdin’s Cave Internet Café (per hr TSh1000; Mpwapwa
h9.30am-1pm & 3.30-8.30pm Tue-Sun, 9.30am-1pm Kisigo
Game Reserve
Kibaoni
Officially, the Southern Highlands begin at Mon) One block east of Kuu St, and about three blocks To Dar es Salaam
Ὀ ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
(195km)
Makambako Gap, about halfway between north of the Ismaili mosque. Kitunda
Kilosa
Iringa and Mbeya, and extend southwards NBC (Kuu St) Changes cash and travellers cheques, and er
Rungwa Rungwa Mtera Morogoro
Rungwa Riv Game Reserve Reservoir Kipera
into Malawi. In this book the term is used to has an ATM. Mtera Dam
Mgeta
Makatapora
designate the entire region along the moun- RAL Internet Café (Kuu St; per 80min TSh1000;
Mt guru
Migole Bunduki
ns
tainous chain running between Morogoro h8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 2-9pm Sun) Just north of the main
u
Ruaha
Ul
Nyangolo
National Mikumi Mikumi Kisaki
Mbuyuni
in the east and Lake Nyasa and the Zambian roundabout. Kipembawe Park National Park
r
ve
ὈὈὈ
Ri
border in the west. It’s a very scenic area, u ah
a Msembe
Idodi
A7 Udekwa
Luhombero Kidatu Kilombero
t R
with wide, rolling panoramas, good hik- Sights & Activities B6 ea
Gr Tungamalenga
Kalenga
Iringa
Ilula (2579m)
Udzungwa
Sanje
Great Ruaha Rive
er
r
ing, a temperate climate and a profusion of The Museum of Geosciences (Nyumba ya Mayonyesho Tosamaganga
Riv
Isimila Mountains Mang'ula
National Park
ya Madini; adult/child TSh500/100; h8am-3.30pm Mon- Lake
ipa
wildflowers on the hillsides during the rains. Rukwa
r a
Ru
ve ah
While many travellers pass through en route Fri) contains rock samples and geological in- Ifakara
Ri Ru
Saza Mafinga
r
ive
ttle
to or from Malawi or Zambia, few stop along formation on the entire country. It’s behind ey
iR
Ngomba ll
Li
Lupiro
fij
Va
Ru
the way, although there’s much of interest. New Dodoma Hotel. A7 A104
ὈὈὈ
ro
Mufindi
Mahenge
be
The Parliament (Bunge) is housed in a mod- Selous
m
Chimala A104 Game
DODOMA Mbalizi Mbeya
lo
M
ern complex on the eastern edge of town just ak Reserve
Ki
am Makambako
%026 off the Dar es Salaam road. It’s possible to Ngozi Peak
(2629m)
Kitulo
Mt Rungwe National Park
ba
ko
(2960m) K i Uonga
Dodoma, in the centre of the country, has observe when they’re in session; bring your Tunduma Tukuyu
p e n ge
r e R a ng e
Ga
p
Bulongwa
been Tanzania’s capital and headquarters passport along.
iver
Njombe
of the ruling CCM party since 1973. Ac- Dodoma is also a good springboard to
uR
Kyela Matema
ὈὈὈ
Ibanda
and
L
cording to the original plan – long since Kolo (180km north) and its centuries-old Songwe River Itungi
ang
iv
abandoned – the government was supposed rock art (p187). Bridge
i ng
ar
st
Mb
B4
to move here by the mid-1980s. This proved
on
Karonga
e
unrealistic due in part to insufficient water Sleeping ZAMBIA Lupingo
Lak
Ludewa
supplies and an inadequate economic base, Water supplies are erratic, so expect bucket
M t ns
e N y a s a (Lake Malawi)
r
and Dar es Salaam remains the unques- baths at the cheaper hotels. Also, hotels fill ive
MALAWI Manda uR
uh
tioned political and economic centre of the up whenever parliament is in session, so Livingstonia Ru
h
Lituhi Peramiho A19
country. don’t be surprised if you need to try several Songea To
Masasi
There’s little reason to come to Dodoma. before finding a room. Kitai
(160km)
However, if you find yourself here, it’s not Mango Mbinga
Liuli
a bad place to spend a day or two. With its BUDGET To Nkhata Mbamba Tunduru
Bay (30km) Bay
grandiose street layout and the imposing ar- Christian Council of Tanzania (CCT; %232 1682; s/d
chitecture of many church and government TSh4500/9000, r with shared bathroom TSh4500) The
buildings – all sharply contrasting with the most convenient budget lodging, with a cen- It’s about 1km north of the main roundabout the bus station. It’s about a 10-minute walk
slow-paced reality of daily life – it’s easy to tral location (at the main roundabout, next off Mpwapwa Rd (reached via Kuu St). west of the bus station, and two blocks east
get the feeling that the town is dressed in to the Anglican church), tatty rooms with Dodoma Blue Guest House (%234 2085; Mpwa- of Kuu St.
clothes that are several sizes too big. mosquito nets, and bucket baths. Breakfast pwa Rd; d TSh10,000) Just around the corner
costs extra. from Kibo Peak, and of similar standard. MIDRANGE & TOP END
Information Kibo Peak Guest House (%232 2902; s TSh7000, Rooms have nets and small double beds. New Dodoma Hotel (Dodoma Rock Hotel; % 232
From the bus stand, the main (Dar es Sa- with TV TSh10,000) Clean rooms with fan and Yarabi Salama (r with shared bathroom TSh2500) 1641; [email protected]; Rail-
laam) road heads west into the centre of net, and an almost exclusively male clientele. The cheapest recommendable option near way St; s/d with fan TSh45,000/55,000, deluxe s/d with
222 T H E S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S • • D o d o m a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S • • M o r o g o r o 223
Dodoma
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
DODOMA 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
It’s near the roundabout, and one block TRAIN
north of the Dar es Salaam road. Dodoma lies on the Central Line railway
A To Kondoa (160km); B C D Food Junction (Tembo Ave; meals from TSh1000; connecting Dar es Salaam with Kigoma and
Kolo (180km);
Arusha (455km)
h8.30am-3.30pm & 6.45-10pm Mon-Sat) A popular Mwanza. Trains from Dodoma westwards
INFORMATION
spot for budget meals, with chicken and depart at about 8am, and eastwards depart
1 A104 Aga Khan Hospital.......................1 B3 rice, and various Indian snacks. It’s near the at about 6pm. There’s also a spur line be-
NBC & ATM.................................2 C2
RAL Internet Café........................3 C3
main roundabout, west of Kuu St. tween Dodoma and Singida; see p265.
AREA C
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Museum of Geosciences..............4 C4 Getting There & Away MOROGORO
Parliament...................................5 D4 BUS %023
SLEEPING Scandinavian Express has daily departures Bustling Morogoro would otherwise be a
Airfield Cana Lodge..................................6 B3 in each direction at 9.15am (luxury) and fairly scruffy town were it not for its verdant
Christian Council of Tanzania.......7 B4
Dodoma Blue Guest House..........8 C2 11am (ordinary), costing TSh7500/10,000 setting at the foot of the Uluguru Mountains,
Jamhuri
Kibo Peak Guest House................9
New Dodoma Hotel...................10
C2
D4
ordinary/luxury and taking six hours, from which brood over the landscape from the
2 Stadium 9 their terminal about 1km east of town along southeast. While there’s no real reason to
Yarabi Salama............................11 C3
2 Mpwapwa8 EATING
the Dar es Salaam road. come here, it’s an agreeable place, with some
Rd
Aladdin's Cave...........................12 C3 To Iringa, there’s a daily bus via Maka- easily arranged hiking just outside town.
Kond
ve
ol A Moshi Ave
Market Scho Food Junction.............................13 B3
tapora; see p228.
oa R
To Singida Swahili Restaurant.....................14 C3
Ave
(250km) onga
Arusha Ave
To Kondoa and Kolo (TSh5500), there’s Information
d
Kiny
Ave TRANSPORT
Ba Um
oja Mwanza Av
e Bus Stand.................................. 15 D4
a bus departing from New Victory Hotel off NBC (Old Dar es Salaam Rd) Changes cash and travellers
hi ve
Rd an za A New Victory Hotel.....................16 C3 Kuu St at 6am Monday, Wednesday and Sat- cheques, and has an ATM.
Mw Tabora Ave
Scandinavian Bus Station........... 17 D4
Ave urday. In the other direction, departures from Wats Internet Café (Mahenge St; per hr TSh1000;
aza CCM Mbeya Ave
Majengo
Mw
ang Building 16 Kolo are on Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday h8.30am-9pm) Diagonally across from Princess Lodge.
3 Market a Av
e Lindi Ave
at 3.30am. Alternatively, Satellite Coach line
arak
Kuu St
Mad
Te
Sixth St
Seve
12 has buses from Dodoma’s main bus stand Sleeping
nth Hos
Eig
Nin
d
uR
nth S
hth t
St pita
ov departing daily about noon for Kondoa
th
Nd 1 11 BUDGET
S
St
Sunni
t
6 bo Ave Mosque (TSh4000, four to five hours), from where Princess Lodge (%0744-319159; Mahenge St; d from
l R
Tem 3 To Humble House (2km);
d
14
13 Dar es Salaam (475km) you can get onward transport to Kolo. TSh10,000, r with shared bathroom TSh7000) The best
Anglican B129
Church Jamatini
To Singida, it’s best to take the train (see shoestring option, with clean, small rooms,
17 5
7 Ismaili
Lutheran Mosque
Daladala
Stand 15
p265). Otherwise, there are through buses most with double bed, fan and net, and
Catholic
Cathedral
Cathedral
To National Vocational (TSh5000, at least eight hours) coming a restaurant downstairs. It’s one block in
Training Centre (700m)
Train
Station
from Dar es Salaam that pass Dodoma’s from the main road in the town centre.
4 main bus station about noon, although they Sofia Hotel (%260 4848; Mahenge St; s/d with
A104
4
10 are often full. shared bathroom TSh6000/7000, with private bathroom
St
Boma
Kikuyu Av
e
d
To Iringa iR
kar
(275km) As HIKING IN THE ULUGURU MOUNTAINS
The Uluguru Mountains southeast of Morogoro contain some of the oldest original forest in
air-con TSh60,000/70,000; ais) The former buried away in a maze of dirt lanes in Area Africa, and while it is much depleted these days, the range is green and scenic, and offers en-
Railway Hotel has been renovated and is E (also known as Ipagala), and signposted joyable hiking.
now Dodoma’s most upscale option, with a from the Dar es Salaam road about 2.5km From Morogoro the most popular route is to Morningside, an old German mountain hut to
large inner courtyard, pleasant rooms and a east of town. the south of town at about 1000m (about two to three hours on foot). The path starts at the
restaurant with a good-value, if uninspired, Cana Lodge (% 232 1199; [email protected]; Regional Administration buildings about 3km south of the town centre at the end of Boma
dinner buffet (meals from TSh5000). Ninth St; s TSh12,000, d TSh18,000-20,000; ste TSh40,000) Rd. From here, a track leads uphill and then curves to the right through small farm plots and
National Vocational Training Centre (NVTC, VETA; Small, sterile rooms and a restaurant. degraded forest before reaching more heavily vegetated highland areas and the Morningside
%232 2181; s with shared bathroom TSh8500, s/d with building. It’s possible to camp here with your own tent and supplies; there’s a small waterfall
private bathroom TSh13,000/17,000) An alternative to Eating nearby. Another possibility from town is the hike to Lupanga Peak (2147m), the highest point
the standard hotel scene, with simple, clean Aladdin’s Cave (snacks TSh500-1500; h9.30am-1pm in the immediate vicinity (about five hours return).
rooms, professional staff and a restaurant Mon, 9.30am-1pm &, 3.30-8.30pm Tue-Sun) Milkshakes, The Wildlife Conservation Society of Tanzania (WCST), together with the Uluguru Mountains
(meals from TSh4000). It’s about 2km east soft-serve ice cream and other snacks (no Biodiversity Conservation Project, publishes the helpful Tourist Information for the Uluguru Moun-
of the centre off the Dar es Salaam road. fresh ice cream on Monday). It’s one block tains, with detailed route descriptions and accommodation info for these and other routes. It’s
Humble House (%235 2261; Area E; s/d TSh12,000/ east of Kuu St, north of the Ismaili mosque. for sale at the WCST office (%023-261 3122; 1st fl, Bodi ya Pamba Bldg, Old Dar es Salaam Rd) in the
14,000; i) A B&B-style place with spotless Swahili Restaurant (meals from TSh1500; hlunch centre of Morogoro, or can be downloaded for free (www.africanconservation.com/uluguru; click
rooms and a small garden. It’s mainly an & dinner) Indian snacks and standard fare, in- on Contents, then on Section 4). The WCST office is the best place to arrange a guide.
option if you have your own transport; it’s cluding yogurt and a few vegetarian dishes.
224 T H E S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S • • M o r o g o r o www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S • • M i k u m i N a t i o n a l Pa r k 225
Morogoro
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
MOROGORO 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
TRAIN 500m northeast of the park gate, has nice
Train
Morogoro is on the Central Line (p265), but stone cottages spread out on a grassy field
A B C Station D to Dar es Salaam, it’s faster to travel by bus. frequented by grazing zebras and gazelles.
INFORMATION EATING TRANSPORT
Given its proximity to the highway, it’s not
NBC Bank & ATM....................1 C2 New Green Restaurant...........10 C2 Taxi Rank & Daladala Stand...12 B2 MIKUMI NATIONAL PARK a wilderness experience, but the animals
%023
Wats Internet Cafe...................2 B2 Pira's Cash & Carry................11 B2 Taxi Stand..............................13 B2
1 WCST Office...........................3 C2
don’t seem to mind, and you’ll likely see
To Msamvu & Main Bus Station
Mikumi National Park is easily accessible plenty from your front porch.
SLEEPING
Ba
(3km); Chalinze (85km); Mikumi St from Dar es Salaam and is a good destination Vuma Tented Camp (%0748-237422, 0744-237422;
nd
Hotel Oasis..............................4 C1 (120km); Dar es Salaam (195km); io n
a
at
Mama Pierina's........................5 C1 Iringa (310km) Mosque St 4 if you don’t have much time but want to see www.tanzaniasafaris.info; s/d all-inclusive US$280/470;
St
5 7
Mt Uluguru Hotel.....................6 B2
Lu wildlife. Within its 3230 sq km, set between s) An easily accessed camp set on a rise
M
Makongoro St
New Acropol Hotel..................7 D1 mu
ac
Catholic To Dragonaire Bar
hu
Princess Lodge.........................8 B2 mb Church & Restaurant (3km); the Uluguru Mountains to the north and the about 7km south of the main road, and
pa
a 10 Selous Game
Sofia Hotel...............................9 B2
Rd
Rd
1 Lumango Mountains to the southeast, the under the same management as Fox’s Safari
River
11 Uhuru Reserve (155km)
12 9 Monument 3
2 8
Old Dar es Salaam Rd Morogoro park hosts populations of buffaloes, giraffes, Camp. The turn-off is diagonally across
Madaraka Rd Regional
elephants, lions, zebras, leopards, crocodiles from the park entry gate.
Kingalu Rd
Morogoro
Machupa Hospital
13
2 Market Rd and more. The best and most reliable view- Also see sleeping options in Mikumi town
6 Kitope Rd ing is around the Mkata floodplains, to the (p226), 23km west.
Rwegas
Kitope
Mahenge St
Rd
Uhuru St
Jamhuri northwest of the main road. Among other
Boma Rd
Stadium
Getting There & Away
ore Rd
To Regional Administration attractions here are the Hippo Pools, where
Buildings (2.5km)
you can watch these lumbering behemoths ROAD
at close range, plus do some fine birding. Although getting to the gate of Mikumi is
TSh12,000/15,000) A long-standing place with New Green Restaurant (%261 4021; Station Rd; Mikumi is contiguous with Selous Game easy via public transport (take any of the
small rooms, and a restaurant. It’s diagonally meals from TSh3000; hlunch & dinner, closed Sun dinner) Reserve to the south (though there’s cur- buses running along the Morogoro–Iringa
across from Princess Lodge. A long-standing establishment with Indian rently no official road linking the two), and highway and ask the driver to drop you off),
Mt Uluguru Hotel (%260 4153, 260 3489; d dishes, grilled chicken and a few vegetarian is close enough to Udzungwa Mountains there is no vehicle hire at the park, so you’ll
TSh15,000) This nondescript multistorey hotel choices. National Park to easily combine the two. need your own car unless you’ve arranged
is conveniently located and has reasonable Dragonaire Bar & Restaurant (%0748-470713; otherwise with one of the lodges. The best
rooms (ask for one with a view) and an in- hlunch & dinner, also breakfast Sat & Sun) Green Information budget way to visit the park is on one of
expensive restaurant. It’s south of the main grounds, a good mix of locals and expats, Entry fees are US$20/5 per adult/child per the frequent special deals offered by Coastal
road, and just off Mahenge St. and pizzas on weekends. It’s signposted day. For camping fees see p113. The park Travels (p118) and other Dar es Salaam–
Mama Pierina’s (Station St; d TSh9000) Tatty about 2.5km east of town, and about 700m is best visited in the dry season. For camp- based tour operators, or to take the bus to
rooms set around a tiny garden, all with fan off the Old Dar es Salaam Rd. site bookings, contact the senior park warden Mikumi town and organise transport to the
and nets. Attached is a restaurant serving For self-catering, try Pira’s Cash & Carry (Lu- (%262 0498). Foxes African Safaris, which park through Genesis Motel (p226).
large portions of unexciting food. mumba Rd), just north of the main road. runs two lodges in the park, has safari ve- The park gate is about a four-hour drive
hicles for its guests. Otherwise, you’ll need from Dar es Salaam; speed limits on the
MIDRANGE & TOP END Getting There & Away to either have your own vehicle to visit the highway inside the park are controlled
Hotel Oasis (%261 4178, 261 3535; www.hoteloasistz BUS park, or arrange an organised tour. Guided (70km/h daytime and 50km/h at night).
.com; Station Rd; r from US$40; as) The Oasis The bus station is 3km north of town in walking safaris can be arranged at the park Some roads in Mikumi’s northern section
has good-value rooms – all with fan, air- Msamvu, on the main Dar es Salaam road entrance. are accessible with a 2WD during the dry
con, TV and small fridge – plus grassy (TSh2000 in a taxi, and TSh150 in a dala- season, but in general 4WD is best.
grounds, efficient staff and a restaurant. dala). Sleeping
Room prices include a breakfast buffet. Scandinavian Express goes daily to Do- The park has four ordinary camp sites, and TRAIN
New Acropol Hotel (%261 3403, 0744-309410; www doma, Mikumi, Iringa, Mbeya and Dar es a special camp site near Choga Wale in the For a splurge, take the private luxury train
.newacropolhotel.biz; s/d TSh45,000/55,000; ai ) Salaam, but as no buses originate in Mo- north. run by Foxes African Safaris between Dar
This upscale B&B-style hotel is popular rogoro it’s best to book in advance; the of- Fox’s Safari Camp (%0748-237422, 0744-237422; es Salaam and Kidatu (about 40km south of
with expats, with a handful of spacious fice is at the bus station. To Dar es Salaam, www.tanzaniasafaris.info; s/d all-inclusive US$280/470; Mikumi town); see p239.
rooms (all with TV and large double bed) there are also many local buses, running s) This camp, operated by the same fam-
and a restaurant. It’s about 300m east of the from 5.45am until about 4pm (TSh2500, ily that operates Ruaha River Lodge (p229), MIKUMI
centre on Old Dar es Salaam Rd. 3½ hours). is set well away from the road on a rocky %023
To Tanga, there is a direct bus daily outcrop in a good wildlife-viewing area in Mikumi is the last of the lowland towns
Eating (TSh4500, five hours), departing by 8am. Mikumi’s far north. Access is via a sign- along the Dar es Salaam–Mbeya highway
Princess Lodge (%0744-319159; Mahenge St; meals The main daladala stand is out in front posted turn-off about 25km northeast of before it starts its climb up into the hills and
TSh2000; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Bright and of the market, where there’s also a taxi the main park gate. Walks and fly camping mountains of the Southern Highlands, and
friendly, and the best bet for local dishes, rank. There’s another taxi rank a couple can be arranged. is of interest primarily as a starting point for
with efficient service and meals promised of blocks further east on Old Dar es Sa- Kikoboga (% 022-260 0352/4; obhotel@acexnet visits to Mikumi or Udzungwa Mountains
in ‘30 minutes or less’. laam Rd. .com; s/d full board US$130/220; s) Kikoboga, about National Parks.
TA N Z A N I A 226 T H E S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S • • U d z u n g w a M o u n t a i n s N a t i o n a l Pa r k www.lonelyplanet.com T H E S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S • • I r i n g a 227
TA N Z A N I A
Sleeping & Eating night hikes, allow an extra day at Mang’ula arguably better shoestring value. Meals can JM Business Consulting (Uhuru Ave; per hr TSh500;
Genesis Motel (%262 0461; camping with shower to organise things, and time to get from park be arranged. It’s just outside the park gate, h8am-9.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-9.30pm Sun) Internet
TSh3000, r per person TSh15,000) On the edge of Mi- headquarters to the trailheads. For all hikes about 200m off the road and signposted. access & international calls.
kumi town, directly on the main highway on the eastern side of the park, there are MR Hotel (Mkwawa Rd; per hr TSh1000; h7.30am-
and about 2.5km east of the Ifakara junction. plenty of streams to fill up your water bottle, Getting There & Away 9.30pm) Internet access.
The setting is noisy and a bit too close to but you’ll need a filter or purifying tablets. BUS NBC (Uhuru Ave) Opposite the Catholic cathedral; changes
the truck stops to be enjoyable, but staff are The entrance gate, park headquarters (%262 Minibuses run daily between Mikumi town cash and travellers cheques, and has an ATM.
helpful and there’s a decent restaurant (Miku- 0224; www.udzungwa.org) and the senior park war- and Kilombero, where you’ll need to wait Top Internet Café (Uhuru Ave; per 70min TSh1000;
mi’s best). It’s a good place to organise budget den’s office are located in Mang’ula, 60km for onward transport towards Mang’ula. It’s h8.30am-9pm)
safaris to Mikumi National Park (US$100 south of Mikumi town along the Ifakara usually faster to wait for one of the larger
per vehicle per day, transport only). road. An entry post at Udekwa village, on through buses coming from either Dar es Sights
the western side of the park, is scheduled to Salaam or Morogoro to Ifakara, which pass Just northeast of town is Gangilonga Rock,
Getting There & Away open soon, which will be useful if you are Mikumi between about 8.30am and 2pm where the famous Hehe chief Mkwawa used
Minibuses towards Udzungwa Mountains coming from Iringa. (TSh3000 between Mang’ula and Mikumi). to go to meditate, and where he learned
National Park leave throughout the day from There’s a tiny market in town, but stock From Dar and Morogoro there are buses that the Germans were after him. It’s just
the Ifakara junction just south of the high- up on major items in Dar es Salaam or Mo- to Ifakara and Mahenge via Mang’ula depart- a few minutes’ walk to the top for views
way (about TSh2000, two hours). Through rogoro. ing from 6.30am (TSh6000, seven to eight over town.
buses on the Dar es Salaam–Mbeya route hours from Dar to Mang’ula).
stop just east of the Ifakara junction. Few Hiking From Iringa, there’s a daily bus to Kil- Sleeping
buses originate in Mikumi, so you’ll need There are no roads in Udzungwa; instead, ombero, departing around noon. BUDGET
to stand on the roadside and wait until one there are about five major and several lesser Between the Mang’ula park gate and Sanje Riverside Campsite (%272 5280/2; phillips@africa
comes by with space. hiking trails. Popular routes include a short (the main trailhead, 10km north), there are online.co.tz; camping TSh2500, tent rental TSh2000) A
Going west, the best bet is Scandinavian but steep half-day circuit through the forest sporadic minibuses (TSh500, 30 minutes) camping ground, 13km northeast of Iringa
Express from Dar es Salaam, which passes to Sanje Falls, and a two-night, three-day hike and the occasional lorry. Alternatively, you along the main road, with a lovely setting
Mikumi daily on its routes to Iringa, Mbeya up to Mwanihana Peak, at 2080m, the park’s can try your luck arranging a lift with park on the banks of the Little Ruaha River, hot
and Songea, beginning about 9.30am. There second-highest point. For all except the easy vehicles (TSh10,000 one way). showers and cold drinks; bring your own
is also a direct bus from Kilombero to Iringa, Sanje Falls route, the going can be tough in food. Take a daladala towards Ilula and ask
passing Mikumi about 5.30am. Going east, parts: trails are often muddy, steep, humid TRAIN the driver to drop you off (TSh500); it’s
buses to Dar es Salaam start to pass Mikumi and densely overgrown; infrastructure is Tazara line ordinary trains stop at Mang’ula about 1.5km off the main road.
from 8.30am. rudimentary; and you’ll need to have your station, about 3km from park headquarters. Iringa Lutheran Centre (%270 2489; Kawawa Rd;
own tent and do your hiking accompanied Express trains stop only at Ifakara, about s/d with shared bathroom TSh2500/3500, d with private
UDZUNGWA MOUNTAINS NATIONAL by a guide. Check with park headquarters 50km further south, and two hours by bus bathroom TSh5000) A good shoestring option,
PARK about the challenging four- to five-day trail to Mang’ula. The other option is the pri- with relatively clean rooms, and meals on
%023 from Mang’ula to Luhombero Peak (2579m, vate luxury train operated by Foxes African request. Breakfast costs TSh500. It’s on the
Towering steeply over the Kilombero Plains and the park’s highest point), which is cur- Safaris, which follows the Tazara line along northeastern edge of town, about 700m
about 350km southwest of Dar es Salaam rently being cleared, as well as about the the northern border of the Selous to Ki- from the main road.
are the wild, lushly forested slopes of the six-day Lumemo Trail. datu (US$120/150 one way/return Dar es Annex of Staff Inn (%270 0165; Uhuru Ave; r
Udzungwa Mountains, portions of which Salaam–Kidatu, seven hours), about 25km TSh7500-15,000) A local favourite along the
are protected as part of Udzungwa Moun- Sleeping north of the park gate; see p239. main road near the bus stand with no-frills
tains National Park. In addition to an abun- The three camp sites near park headquar- rooms and meals.
dance of unique plants, the park is home to a ters are rarely used, as they’re pricier (per IRINGA
healthy population of primates (10 species – person US$20) than the local guesthouses. %026 MIDRANGE & TOP END
more than in any of Tanzania’s other parks) Camp sites along the trails are charged at With its bluff-top setting, jacaranda-lined MR Hotel (%270 2006, 270 2779; www.mrhotel.co.tz;
and makes an intriguing off-beat destination the same rate. streets and highland feel, Iringa is a likeable Mkwawa Rd; s/d/ste US$25/32/37; ai) A good
for anyone botanically inclined or interested Udzungwa Mountain View Hotel (%262 0260; place, and one of the most agreeable stops multistorey hotel next to the bus station,
in hiking well away from the crowds. camping TSh2000, r per person TSh15,000) Under the along the Dar es Salaam–Mbeya highway. with efficient staff, modern rooms and a res-
same management as Genesis Motel in Mi- The town, which is perched at a cool 1600m taurant. They also organise car hire, Ruaha
Information kumi, with basic but clean rooms and a res- on a cliffside overlooking the valley of the safaris and other excursions.
Entry fees are US$20/5 per adult/child per taurant (meals about TSh4500). It’s about Little Ruaha River, was initially built up by Huruma Baptist Conference Centre (%270 1532,
day. For camping fees, see p113. Porter fees 500m south of the park entrance, along the the Germans at the turn of the century as a 270 0182; camping with shower TSh2500, s/d TSh10,000/20,000)
range from TSh3000 to TSh6000 per day, road. bastion against the local Hehe people. This place is set on large grounds 3km from
depending on the trail. For all hikes, you’ll Twiga Hotel (%262 0239; r with shared bathroom the town centre down Mkwawa Rd, near the
need to be accompanied by a guide (US$15 TSh4000, with private bathroom TSh5000) Basic rooms Information Danish School, with simple rooms and inex-
per day, or US$25 for the armed ranger that are several notches down from those at Aga Khan Health Centre (Jamat St; h8am-6pm pensive meals. It’s about a 25-minute walk
guide necessary for longer hikes). For over- Udzungwa Mountain View, though they are Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun) Next to the Lutheran cathedral. from the town centre; daladalas run nearby.
228 T H E S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S • • I r i n g a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S • • A r o u n d I r i n g a 229
Iringa
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
IRINGA 0
0
600 m
0.4 miles
for both Njombe and Songea, it’s faster to Ruaha is notable for its wild and striking
wait for the Scandinavian bus from Dar es topography: undulating plateau with occa-
A B C D Salaam. sional rocky outcrops, and low mountains
INFORMATION Isimila Hotel.................................8 D1 TRANSPORT To Dodoma, there’s a daily bus depart- in the south and west. Running through the
Aga Khan Health Centre..............1 C3 MR Hotel.....................................9 C3 Daladalas to Ipogoro..................14 C3
JM Business Consulting................2 C3 Scandinavian Bus Booking
To Dodoma
(275km)
ing about 8am in each direction (TSh7000, park are several ‘sand’ rivers, most of which
1 NBC & ATM.................................3 A3 EATING Office....................................15 C3 10 to 12 hours), going via Nyangolo and dry up completely during the dry season,
Post Office.................................(see 5) Hasty Tasty Too.........................10 C2 Town Bus Station.......................16 B3
Top Internet Café........................4 C2 Lulu's.........................................11 D2 Makatapora. Otherwise, all transport is via when they are used by wildlife as corridors
TTCL............................................5 C3 Premji's Cash & Carry.................12 B3 Morogoro. If you’re driving to Dodoma via to reach areas where water remains.
Saju's Home Cooking................ 13 D2
Makatapora, allow five to six hours.
ὈὈ
SLEEPING
Annex of Staff Inn........................6 B3
Iringa Lutheran Centre.................7 D2
To Danish School & Huruma Baptist 8 Information
Conference Centre (2km) Hospital
AROUND IRINGA Entry fees are US$20/5 per adult/child per
St
13
Isimila Stone-Age Site day. For accommodation fees, see p113.
sie
las
t
i S
To
About 15km outside Iringa, off the Mbeya The main gate is about 8km inside the east-
Se
Gangilonga
Tit
ile
Rock (1km)
Ha
Ka
wa
wa road, is Isimila (admission TSh500), where in the ern park boundary. Park headquarters (kudu@
2 11
Rd
late 1950s archaeologists unearthed one of bushlink.co.tz) is nearby at Msembe.
ὈὈ
Antipoaching
Office 7 the most significant Stone-Age finds ever Except for the February to May wet season,
Be
10 nd identified. The tools found at the site are lodges organise walks, as does the park for
Mkw
Uhuru era
Mosque Monument St
4 estimated to be between 60,000 and 100,000 those staying in the camp sites or bandas.
awa
Roundabout
years old. The display itself isn’t exciting, but
Rd
Catholic 2
To Kalenga Historical Cathedral 15
14 Uhuru
the surrounding area is worth the journey, Sleeping
16
Museum (15km); 9 Park with bizarrely eroded sandstone pillars. There are two ordinary camp sites about 9km
Ma
Ruaha National Iringa
Park (115km) 3 Ave 5
Isimila is an easy bicycle ride from Iringa. northwest of park headquarters, and about
rke
ru District
Uhu
i St Hospital
t (S
6
kitin Otherwise, take a daladala towards Tosa- five special camp sites; none have water.
Mis
oko
3 12 Miomboni
St
maganga (TSh500) and ask to be dropped The park maintains several bandas about
ni)
Ismaili
St
To Main Highway to Mbeya & Jam
Mosque
Market off at the turn-off, from where it’s about a 2km from headquarters, and a resthouse.
Morogoro (2km); Ipogoro Bus at S
Station (2.5km); Riverside
t
Maji Maji 20-minute walk. Taxis from town cost about Water is available for showers and the park
Campsite (13km); Isimila & Uprising Some Minor Roads
Tosamaganga (15km); Kisolanza –
1
Lutheran
Monument not Depicted TSh5000 return. sells a few basics, but otherwise you’ll need
The Old Farm House (50km)
Cathedral your own supplies. For all park accommoda-
Kalenga tion, book in advance during the high sea-
Isimila Hotel (% 270 1194; Uhuru Ave; s/d/ste Getting There & Away The former Hehe capital of Kalenga is 15km son. In Iringa, the antipoaching office on the
TSh9000/11,500/18,000) Reasonable-value rooms To catch any bus not originating in Iringa, from Iringa on the road to Ruaha National edge of town can help you radio the park to
and a restaurant, at the northern end of you’ll need to go to the main bus station Park. It was here that Chief Mkwawa – one make bookings. Head west out of town on
town. at Ipogoro, about 3km southeast of town of German colonialism’s most vociferous the Ruaha road. Take the first right after the
below the escarpment (TSh1000 in a taxi to resistors – had his administration until Ka- roundabout at the edge of town, and then the
Eating town), where the Morogoro to Mbeya high- lenga fell to the Germans in the 1890s, and first left. The antipoaching unit is about 200m
Hasty Tasty Too (%270 2061; Uhuru Ave; snacks & way bypasses Iringa. This is also where you’ll it was here that he committed suicide rather down on the left opposite the mosque.
meals from TSh500; h7.30am-8pm) One of Iringa’s get dropped off if you’re arriving on a bus than succumb to the German forces. Ruaha River Lodge (%0748-237422, 0744-237422;
highlights, with good breakfasts, yogurt, continuing towards Morogoro or Mbeya. The small Kalenga Historical Museum (admis- www.tanzaniasafaris.info; s/d all-inclusive US$280/470) This
shakes and reasonably priced main dishes. Daladalas to Ipogoro leave from the edge of sion TSh1500) contains Mkwawa’s skull and a classy but unpretentious lodge is directly on
The owner is helpful with arranging budget Uhuru Park in town. All buses originating few other relics from the era. It’s just off the the river about 15km inside the park gate,
safaris to Ruaha, and can also organise food in Iringa start at the bus station in town, park road and is signposted. with cosy stone bandas and views over the
if you’re planning to camp in the park. stopping also at Ipogoro. water. Fly camping can be arranged, and
Saju’s Home Cooking (Haile Selassie St; snacks & meals Scandinavian Express has three buses to RUAHA NATIONAL PARK there are reasonable drive-in rates available.
from TSh500; h7am-11pm) This homy family-run Dar es Salaam, leaving at 6.30am, 9am and Ruaha National Park forms the core of a Mwagusi Safari Camp (in UK %020-8846 9363;
eatery makes a good stop for cheap local food. 10.30am daily (TSh9000/10,000, ordinary/ wild and extended ecosystem covering about www.ruaha.org; s/d all-inclusive US$450/780; hJun-
It’s at the northern end of town, on a small semiluxury, 7½ hours); book in advance at 40,000 sq km, and providing home to one Mar) Mwagusi is an exclusive and highly re-
lane running parallel to the main road. its office, opposite the town bus station. of Tanzania’s largest elephant populations. garded luxury tented camp in a top-notch
Lulu’s (%270 2122; snacks & meals from TSh500; To Mbeya, there’s a bus departing daily Other residents include large herds of buf- wildlife-viewing location on the Mwagusi
h 8.30am-3pm & 6.30-9pm Mon-Sat) Quiet and about 6am (TSh6500, four to five hours). faloes, as well as greater and lesser kudus, Sand River about 20km inside the park gate.
friendly, with light meals, soft-serve ice Alternatively, book a seat on the Scandina- Grant’s gazelles, wild dogs, ostriches, chee- The atmosphere is intimate, with just 16
cream and an outdoor seating area. It’s one vian bus from Dar es Salaam, passing Iringa tahs, roan and sable antelopes, and more beds, and guiding is excellent.
block southeast of the main road, just off (Ipogoro) about 1pm. than 400 different types of birds. The Great Other recommendations:
Kawawa Rd. To Njombe, there’s one bus daily depart- Ruaha River winds through the eastern side Mdonya Old River Camp (%022-211 7959/60;
For self-catering, try Premji’s Cash & Carry ing in the morning from the town bus sta- of the park, and is home to hippos, croco- [email protected]; s/d all-inclusive US$290/480; hJul-
(%270 2296; Jamat St). tion. For Songea, change in Njombe, though diles and many water birds. Easter) Rustic and comfortable, this camp is in the western
230 T H E S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S • • I r i n g a t o M a k a m b a k o www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S • • M b e y a 231
Mbeya
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
part of the park, about 1½ hours’ drive from Msembe. IRINGA TO MAKAMBAKO MBEYA 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
While not as luxurious or as well-located as some of the From Iringa, the Tanzam highway contin-
other camps, if you take advantage of Coastal Aviation’s ues southwest, winding its way gradually up, A B C D
‘last minute’ deals, Mdonya offers very good value. past dense stands of pine, before reaching
Hospital Hil
Jongomero Camp (www.selous.com; s/d all-inclusive the junction town of Makambako. About ay
Ka
INFORMATION
US$495/660; hJun-Mar; s) This wonderfully exclusive 40km southwest of Iringa, and about 1km W
un
1 pa
da
Anglican Lu Aga Khan Medical Centre............1 B2
Hospital
camp is set off on its own in the remote southwestern part off the main road, is Kisolanza – The Old Farm
Av
Church Nane Information Centre..............2 B2
e
Catholic NBC Bank & ATM........................3 C2
of the park, about 60km from Msembe. It has just eight House (www.kisolanza.com; camping with hot showers Church
nce Ave Ka Rd
tents – all very luxurious and superbly furnished – and US$3, self-catering chalets per chalet US$15-25, cottages Independe rum ja SLEEPING
e en
14 mb Holiday Lodge..............................4 C2
Station
Av a
you’re unlikely to see any other visitors. per adult/child half board US$50/12), a farm home- Mw
Rd
e Mbeya Peak Hotel........................5 B2
11
Moravian Hostel...........................6 B3
stead with camping, chalets and cottages, Post St
New Millennium Inn....................7 A3
North St
1
With your own transport, it’s also possible plus a shop selling fresh produce and other 8 9 5 3 Warsame Guest House................8 A2
Lum
to stay outside the park boundaries. items. Scandinavian Express and other buses Sisimba St EATING
um
Acacia St
Tandala Tented Camp (%026-270 3425, 023-260 will drop you at the turn-off. 10 Mambeu's...................................9 A2
ba
Market Sq
Market Sq
2 PM's Corner Restaurant.............10 B2
Makambako itself is a windy, dusty junc-
Rd
13
1569; [email protected]; per person full-board US$110) West St
2
East St Sombrero Restaurant..................11 B2
Just outside the park boundary along the tion town where the road from Songea Market
Sokoine
Stadium Ch d
TRANSPORT u n ya R
Tungamalenga road, and about 12km from meets the Dar es Salaam–Mbeya highway. School St Bus Station & Scandinavian Booking
the park gate. Accommodation is in raised If you get stuck here overnight, your only
South St
Office....................................12 A3
Jama
tikha 4 Taxi Stand..................................13 B2
tents, and the camp can help you arrange choices are the basic Lutheran Centre Hotel & na Rd
Taxi Stand................................(see 12)
vehicle hire to Ruaha (US$50 per person for Guest House (%026-273 0047; s/d with shared bath- Rhino
Statue
Tazara Town Booking Office......14 B1
a full-day safari) and transport from Iringa. room TSh2000/3000), opposite the train station,
Jacaranda
Tungamalenga Camp (%026-278 2198/6; tung or the more expensive Uplands Hotel (%026-
[email protected]; camping US$5, r per person with break- 273 0201; r about TSh10,000), also on the main 12 d
iR
Rd
fast/full board US$20/40) In Tungamalenga village, road, about 500m west of the junction. Buses 3 liz
ba 7 To Tukuyu (75km);
M d
about 35km from the park gate, with simple from Makambako to Mbeya cost TSh3000. ab
aR Songwe River Bridge
& Malawi (125km);
To Karibuni Centre (2km); aS
en suite bandas around a tiny garden (where Train Station (4km);
Mbalizi (12km); Utengule
6 Sa
b Kyela (130km);
Iringa (365km);
you can pitch a tent) and a restaurant. The MBEYA Country Hotel (20km);
Tunduma & Zambia (95km)
Songea (495km)
camp has a vehicle that you can hire (US$100 %025
per day to the main gate area). Mbeya lies in a gap between the verdant
Mbeya Range to the north and the Poroto Watch your luggage and your pockets, and with clean rooms – some with bathroom –
Getting There & Away Mountains to the southeast. It was founded avoid walking alone through the small val- and a restaurant. It’s just off the main road
Coastal Aviation flies from both Dar es in 1927 as a supply centre for the gold rush at ley behind the station. Also watch out for behind the large Rift Valley Hotel, about
Salaam and Zanzibar to Ruaha via Selous Lupa, to the north. Today Mbeya is a bustling faux guides, and don’t make any arrange- a 10-minute walk from the market area,
Game Reserve (US$300 one way from Dar regional capital, the major town in south- ments with anyone loitering around the bus and about 15 minutes on foot from the bus
es Salaam or Zanzibar, US$270 from Selous western Tanzania and an important transit or train stations. stand.
Game Reserve), and sometimes between point en route to/from Zambia and Malawi. Other recommendations:
Ruaha and Arusha. Foxes African Safaris Thanks to its altitude at about 1800m, the Sleeping Moravian Hostel (%250 2643, 250 3626; Jacaranda Rd;
(p92) has a plane based in Ruaha for flights climate is pleasantly cool year-round. BUDGET s TSh6500, d with shared bathroom TSh4200) No-frills rooms
to Katavi (US$400), Dar es Salaam (US$300), There’s not much to the town itself, but Karibuni Centre (%250 3035; [email protected]; camp- (breakfast costs extra). Meals are sometimes available on
Arusha (US$300), Selous (US$270), Mikumi it’s a good place for stocking up, and the ing per double tent TSh2000 plus per person additional order. It’s about 800m south of the market, and not safe to
and other destinations on request. surrounding area is scenic, with some hik- TSh1000, d/tr/q TSh10,000/12,000/14,000) A clean, quiet walk to, especially at night (TSh1000 in a taxi from town).
A bus goes daily between Iringa and Tun- ing possibilities. mission-run place in an enclosed compound Warsame Guest House (Sisimba St; s/d with shared
gamalenga, departing Iringa at 1pm and where you can also pitch a tent. There’s also bathroom TSh2500/3500) Grubby shared facilities and a
Tungamalenga at 3am (TSh2500, 3½ to five Information a restaurant (meals from TSh3000; open central location just northwest of the market.
hours). From Tungamalenga, there is only Aga Khan Medical Centre (%250 2043; h8am- 7am-9pm Monday to Friday, lunch Satur- New Millennium Inn (%250 0599; Mbalizi Rd; s with
the occasional park vehicle, though you can 8pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun) Just north of the market. day). It’s 3km southwest of the town centre, shared bathroom TSh5000, with private bathroom TSh6500)
hire a vehicle from Tungamalenga Camp. Nane Information Centre (per hr TSh500; h8am- and about 10 minutes on foot from the dala- Directly opposite the bus station and noisy, but convenient
Hasty Tasty Too (p228) in Iringa organ- 10pm) Internet access; on the western side of the market dala stop for transport into town. Watch for if you have an early bus.
ises transport from US$130 per vehicle per square. the signpost along the north side of the main
day, five persons maximum, for two days NBC (cnr Karume & Kaunda Aves) Changes travellers highway, and about 500m west of the first MIDRANGE & TOP END
and one night, and, if you’re travelling cheques with purchase receipts, and has an ATM. junction coming from Dar es Salaam. From Mbeya Peak Hotel (%250 3473; Acacia St; s/d/ste
alone or in a small group, can sometimes the turn-off, head through what looks like an TSh12,000/15,000/30,000) A central, sunny setting
put you in touch with other travellers who Dangers & Annoyances empty lot for about 300m to the gate. and decent rooms, some with views over
are interested in visiting the park. Mbeya attracts many transients, particu- Holiday Lodge (%250 2821; Jamatikhana Rd; s/d the hills. It’s on a small side street just east
The closest petrol is in Iringa. larly in the area around the bus station. TSh6000/7500) A whitewashed local guesthouse of the market. There’s also a restaurant.
TA N Z A N I A 232 T H E S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S • • A r o u n d M b e y a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S • • Tu k u y u 233
TA N Z A N I A
Utengule Country Hotel (%256 0100; utengule@ Minibuses go daily to Tunduma, on the population. The northern section is part of Lutengano Moravian Centre (camping TSh2000
iwayafrica.com; s/tw/ste US$45/80/120; s) This attrac- Zambian border (TSh2500, two hours), Rukwa Game Reserve, which is contiguous plus per small/large car per night TSh1000/2500, tr TSh3500,
tive lodge is set on a coffee plantation in the where you can change to Zambian trans- with Katavi National Park. As the lake has s with shared bathroom TSh2500) This no-frills place
hills about 20km west of Mbeya, and if you port; the Scandinavian bus between Dar es no outlet, its water level varies significantly off the main road north of Tukuyu has a
have your own transport, it makes a cosy Salaam and Tunduma passes Mbeya in the between the wet and dry seasons. Visits are handful of simple rooms with nets, plus
base for exploring the surrounding region. late afternoon. only practical with a 4WD. The main ap- large grounds where you can pitch a tent,
Take the Tunduma road west from Mbeya Scandinavian runs daily between Dar proaches are from Sumbawanga, or from and is sometimes used by overland trucks.
for about 12km to Mbalizi, where there’s a and Lusaka via Mbeya (TSh36,000 between Mbeya via Chunya and Saza to Ngomba, on Head north from Tukuyu for about 3km to
signposted turn-off to the right. Continue for Mbeya and Lusaka); see p259. the lakeshore. There are no facilities. the signposted turn-off on the western side
8.5km, keeping left at the first fork. The lodge To Sumbawanga, Sumry goes daily at of the road, from where it’s 7km further
is signposted to the right. Via public trans- 5.30am and 7am (TSh8000, six hours). For TUKUYU down a dirt road. Occasional pick-ups run
port, take any Tunduma-bound daladala to Mpanda, change vehicles in Sumbawanga, %025 to/from town.
Mbalizi, from where sporadic pick-ups will and plan on spending the night there, since Tukuyu is an agreeable town set among
take you to within about 2km of the lodge. most vehicles to Mpanda depart Sum- rolling hills and orchards near Lake Nyasa. Getting There & Away
bawanga in the morning. The area holds the potential for some good Minibuses run several times daily between
Eating To Tabora, there are three to four buses hiking, but tourist facilities are minimal and Tukuyu and both Mbeya (TSh1000, one to
Sombrero Restaurant (%250 3636; Post St, mains weekly during the dry season via Chunya there’s no infrastructure, so for anything 1½ hours along a scenic, Tarmac road) and
TSh2500-3500; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) A lively and Rungwa. you undertake you’ll be on your own. NBC, Kyela (TSh1000, one hour).
place serving up large portions of vegetarian in the centre of town, changes cash and trav-
curry, spaghetti bolognaise and other dishes TRAIN ellers cheques and has an ATM, and you can KITULO PLATEAU
for reasonable prices. Tickets for all classes can be booked at the get online at Siaki Internet Café (per hr TSh1000), Nestled at about 2600m in the highlands
Utengule Country Hotel (%256 0100; utengule@ Tazara town booking office near the post of- diagonally across from the bank. northeast of Tukuyu is this flower-clad
iwayafrica.com; meals about TSh10,000; hlunch and din- fice, which is open (in theory) from 7.30am plateau, part of which is protected as Kitulo
ner) The place to go for fine dining, with a to 3pm Monday to Friday. Otherwise, book Activities National Park. During the rainy season from
daily set menu or à la carte, a Sunday after- at the station (h7.30am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, HIKING about November until April, it explodes in a
noon barbecue and a convivial bar. 10.40am-12.40pm & 2-4pm Sat), 4km west of town One possibility is the summit of the 2960m profusion of colour, with terrestrial orchids
PM’s Corner Restaurant (cnr Sisimba St & Market Sq; on the main highway. Mt Rungwe, to the east of the main road (over 50 species have been identified thus
meals TSh1000) and, diagonally across from it, See p265 for schedules and fares between between Tukuyu and Mbeya; allow about far), irises, aloes, geraniums and many more
Mambeu’s, are local staples, with inexpensive Mbeya and Dar es Salaam, and p259 for in- 10 hours. The climb starts from Rungwe flowers carpeting its grassy expanses. The
ugali, chips, chicken and the like. formation about connections with Zambia. Secondary School, where you can arrange best months for seeing the orchids – the
For self-catering, try the small shops a guide; it’s signposted off the Mbeya road plateau’s most renowned resident – are De-
around the market area, most of which have Getting Around about 15km north of Tukuyu. cember through March, which is also when
reasonable selections of boxed juices, tinned There are taxi stands at the bus station, and Further north and about 7km west of the hiking is at its muddiest. The park also of-
cheese and the like. near the market. Daladalas to Tazara and main road is the volcanic Ngozi Peak (2629m), fers excellent birding.
Mbalizi depart from the road in front of New which has an impressive crater lake that is The best access is via Chimala, about
Getting There & Away Millennium hotel. the subject of local legends. Take any dala- 80km east of Mbeya along the main high-
BUS dala travelling between Mbeya and Tukuyu way. From here, turn south at the park
Scandinavian Express has two buses daily AROUND MBEYA and ask to be dropped off. Once at the turn- signpost on the western edge of town and
to Dar es Salaam (TSh15,000 to TSh17,000, Mbeya Peak off, you’ll be approached by local guides continue another 42km on a rough road
12 hours); book in advance at their office at Mbeya Peak (2818m), the highest peak if you haven’t already come with one; the that climbs over a seemingly endless series
the bus station. in the Mbeya range, can be climbed as a going rate is TSh1000. of hairpin turns to the sizeable settlement of
Super Feo has daily morning departures day hike from Mbeya. The most common Matamba (current park headquarters), the
to Njombe (TSh6000, four hours) and Son- route goes from Mbalizi junction, 12km Sleeping & Eating park’s Mwakipembo Gate and Kitulo Farm
gea (TSh11,000, eight hours). west of town on the Tunduma road. Take a Landmark Hotel (% 255 2400; s/d/ste TSh25,000/ (site of future park headquarters). Pick-ups
Daladalas go several times daily from daladala to Mbalizi, get out at the sign for 30,000/50,000) Modern rooms, all with TV go at least twice daily as far as Matamba,
Mbeya to Tukuyu (TSh700), Kyela (TSh1500) Utengule Country Hotel, head right, and and hot water, and a restaurant. It’s the where there are a couple of basic guest-
and Malawi. For Itungi, change vehicles in follow the dirt road for 900m to a sign for St unmissable two-storey building at the main houses. From here, you’ll need to walk or
Kyela. There is also daily transport between Mary’s Seminary. Turn right and follow the junction. have your own transport; allow about six
Mbeya and the Malawi border, where you road up past the seminary to Lunji Farm, Langboss Lodge (%255 2080; s/d with shared to seven hours on foot between Matamba
can pick up Malawian transport heading to and then on to the peak (about four to five bathroom TSh2000/3000, d with private bathroom TSh4000) and Kitulo Farm.
Karonga and beyond. To Lilongwe, there’s hours return). The main shoestring option, with basic Park fees (US$20 per day) are now being
a bus several times weekly, departing Dar rooms and cold water. It’s about 1km east collected at the park offices in Matamba.
at 5am, reaching Mbeya between 3pm and Lake Rukwa of the town centre; from the small round- There’s currently only the most rudimen-
4pm, and then continuing to Lilongwe. See Remote Lake Rukwa is a large salt lake nota- about at the top of town, head straight and tary infrastructure. For any hiking, you’ll
also p258. ble for its many water birds and its crocodile then right. need to be self-sufficient with food and
TA N Z A N I A 234 T H E S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S • • L a k e N y a s a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S • • N j o m b e 235
TA N Z A N I A
water, and carry a GPS. Camping is possible r US$15-30 per room, d with shared bathroom US$8, with Mbamba Bay NJOMBE
at Kitulo Farm. private bathroom US$25) A good place on the This relaxing outpost is the southernmost %026
beach about 300m past the Lutheran Guest Tanzanian port on Lake Nyasa. With its Njombe is a workaday town that would be
LAKE NYASA House, with en suite cottages and chalets. low-key ambience and attractive palm- completely unmemorable but for its highly
Lake Nyasa (known to many non-Tanzanians There’s no restaurant, but there’s a grill, fringed beach, it makes an agreeable place scenic setting on the eastern edge of the
as Lake Malawi) is Africa’s third-largest lake or you can arrange meals with staff. You to spend a day or two. Kipengere mountain range at almost 2000m,
after Lake Victoria and Lake Tanganyika, and can also make bookings through Karibuni Neema Lodge (Mama Simba’s; %Mbamba Bay 3; surrounded by hills that roll into the hori-
hosts close to one-third of the earth’s known Centre in Mbeya. r with shared bathroom TSh5000) is the best value zon. There’s no tourist infrastructure, so any
cichlid (freshwater fish) species. The Living- Lutheran Guest House (%0744-606225, 025-255 place to stay, with basic rooms and meals. hiking will need to be under your own steam
stone Mountains to the east form a stunning 2597/8; tr/quad with shared bathroom TSh6200/13,200, d To get here turn left just before the bridge and with a GPS. For a few route suggestions,
backdrop. Places of interest around the Tan- with private bathroom TSh8400) This charmingly di- as you enter town. look for A Guide to the Southern Highlands
zanian side of the lake include the following lapidated beachside place has simple rooms, Another place to stay is Nyasa View (d of Tanzania, available at some hotels.
(listed by location from north to south). and meals with advance notice. Check with with shared bathroom TSh6000), though the rooms Chani Motel (%278 2357; s/d TSh8500/10,500) is
the Lutheran mission in Tukuyu (just down- here aren’t worth the extra compared with Njombe’s best, with running water (usu-
Kyela hill from the NBC bank) to be sure space Neema Lodge. Continue straight through ally hot) and meals. It’s about 2km north
%025 is available. You can also make bookings town after the bridge, heading towards the of town, and about 500m off the main road,
There’s no reason to come here unless your through the Lutheran mission in Tukuyu. beach. signposted to the west.
boat arrives late at Itungi and you need There are occasional direct vehicles from Lutheran Centre Guest House (%278 2403; s/d
somewhere to stay overnight. Photography GETTING THERE & AWAY Songea, usually coordinated with ferry ar- with shared bathroom TSh2000/3500) is about 700m
is prohibited in most areas of town. Boat rivals, but you’ll generally need to change south of the bus stand along the main road,
Makete Half London Guest House (%254 0459; s The MV Iringa (p261) stops at Matema on vehicles at Mbinga (at least TSh2500 for in the Lutheran church compound.
TSh4500) has clean, basic rooms with net. It’s its way from Itungi Port down the eastern each of the two legs). Minibuses go daily between Njombe and
in the town centre, opposite the Scandina- lakeshore, arriving at Matema in the mid- For details of ferry services between Songea (TSh5000, three to four hours) and
vian Express bus office. afternoon. Note that the MV Songea (p260) Mbamba Bay and Itungi port, see p261. For to Makambako, where you can get trans-
Pattaya Hotel (%254 0015; s/d TSh5000/6000) is doesn’t stop here, which means you’ll need ferry connections with Nkhata Bay (Ma- port to Mbeya, and there’s also at least one
on the same road as Makete, and is similar. to head back to Itungi Port if you’re going lawi), see p260. direct bus to Mbeya. Scandinavian charges
Scandinavian departs for Dar es Salaam to Malawi. Northbound, there are occasional 4WDs between TSh14,000 and TSh17,500 to Dar
at 6am daily (TSh17,000, 15 hours). To to Liuli mission station. Entering or leaving es Salaam, and TSh5000 to/from Songea.
Tukuyu and Mbeya (TSh1500), you can take Road Tanzania via Mbamba Bay, you’ll need to
the Scandinavian bus, or a minibus from From Tukuyu, pick-ups to Ipinda depart stop at the immigration post/police station SONGEA
the stand about two blocks north of Pattaya around 8am from the roundabout by the near the boat landing for passport formal- %025
Hotel. Pick-ups run daily between Kyela NBC bank (TSh2000, two hours). You’ll ities; it’s possible to buy Tanzanian visas Songea is a bustling regional capital that will
and Itungi, in rough coordination with boat then need to wait around Ipinda until about here. look like a major metropolis if you’ve just
arrivals and departures. 2pm, when there’s usually a pick-up to
Matema (TSh1500, 35km). Departures from
Itungi Matema back to Ipinda are around 6.30am. THE MAJI MAJI REBELLION
Itungi, 11km south of Kyela, is the main Tan- Chances are better on weekends for finding The Maji Maji rebellion was the strongest local revolt against the colonial government in German
zanian port for the Lake Nyasa ferry. There’s a lift between Matema and Ipinda with a East Africa. It began about the turn of the 20th century when colonial administrators set about
no accommodation, and photography is for- private vehicle. If you get stuck in Ipinda, establishing enormous cotton plantations near the southeastern coast and along the railway
bidden. For ferry information, see p261. there are several basic guesthouses. line running from Dar es Salaam towards Morogoro. These plantations required large numbers
There are also sporadic pick-ups from of workers, many of whom were recruited as forced labour and required to work under miser-
Matema Kyela to Ipinda (TSh1500), a few of which able conditions. Before long anger at this harsh treatment and long-simmering resentment of
Quiet and pretty Matema is the only spot continue on to Matema, and from Kyela, it’s the colonial government combined to ignite a powerful rebellion. The first outbreak was in 1905
on northern Lake Nyasa with any sort of easy to hire a vehicle to drop you off. in the area around Kilwa, on the coast. Soon all of southern Tanzania was involved, from Kilwa
tourist infrastructure, and it makes an ideal The Lutheran mission in Tukuyu can and Lindi in the southeast to Songea in the southwest. Thousands died, both on the battlefield
spot to relax. You can arrange rides in local arrange transport between Tukuyu and and due to the famine precipitated by the Germans’ ‘scorched-earth’ tactics, in which fields and
canoes or take excursions down the coast. Matema for about US$65 per vehicle one grain silos were set on fire. Fatalities were exacerbated by a belief among the Africans that enemy
Nearby are some small waterfalls and caves, way. bullets would turn to water before killing them, and that their warriors would therefore not be
and on Saturdays there’s a lively pottery harmed – hence the name Maji Maji (maji means water in Swahili).
market at Lyulilo village, 1.5km down the Ikombe By 1907, when the rebellion was finally suppressed, close to 100,000 people had lost their
coast. There’s nowhere to change money. The tiny village of Ikombe is notable for lives, large areas of the south were left devastated, and malnutrition was widespread.
its clay pots, which are sold at markets in The uprising resulted in the temporary liberalisation of colonial rule. More significantly, it
SLEEPING & EATING Mbeya and elsewhere in the region. It’s promoted development of a national identity among many ethnic groups and intensified anti-
Matema Lake Shore Resort (%025-250 4178; mec@ reached via dugout canoe from Matema. colonial sentiment, kindling the movement towards independence.
atma.co.tz; camping with shower TSh3000, 3-/4-/5-bed There’s nowhere to stay.
ὈὈ
236 S O U T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • S e l o u s G a m e R e s e r v e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A 237
Southeastern Tanzania
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
come from Tunduru or Mbamba Bay. The plenty to chose from, all around the same SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA 0
0
80 km
50 miles
main ethnic group here is the Ngoni, who standard.
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
migrated into the area from South Africa There’s at least one bus daily between B129 A7 Chalinze
Mbudya
Mlandizi
during the 19th century. Songea takes its Tunduru and Masasi, departing from about Bongoyo
Kibaha
name from one of their greatest chiefs, who 5am (seven to 10 hours). Between Tunduru Morogoro ve
r DAR ES SALAAM
Ri
was killed following the Maji Maji rebellion and Songea, the main options are Land
Ruvu
Kisarawe Latham
Kipera
(p235), and is buried about 1km from town Rovers, which go daily (TSh17,000, eight to A7
Mgeta Matombo
near the Maji Maji museum. 11 hours, departing Tunduru between 3am Uluguru
Mkuranga
Mountains See Selous Game
NBC, behind the market, changes cash and 7am), and usually one bus (TSh10,000,
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
Kilengezi Reserve (Northern
Section) Map (p239)
and travellers cheques, and has an ATM. For departing at 6am). If you are staying at a Mikumi
Mikumi Dutumi LEGEND
Internet, try Valongo Internet Café (per hr TSh2000; guesthouse near the Land Rover ‘station’, To Iringa
NP Kisaki
Kisiju GR Game Reserve
Fuga
h9am-6pm), nearby. you can arrange for the driver to come and (150km) MP Marine Park
NP National Park
wake you before departure. Bring food and
ὅὅὅ
Bungu
Kidatu
Sleeping & Eating water with you. Stiegler's
Gorge
Kibiti Nyamisati Bweni
Angoni Arms Hotel (%260 2279, 0745-512373; r
ὅὅὅ
Ru Mloka
fiji Mafia
ὈὈὈὈ
SOUTHEASTERN
Great Ruaha River
TSh15,000) The only choice approaching mid- Ri Mkongo Kilindoni Island
ve Ikwiriri
r
ὅὅὅ
Utende
range, with clean en suite rooms, hot water Utete
Ndundu Juani
TANZANIA
Chole Island Jibondo
and a restaurant. It’s about 1km from the & Chole Bay
ὅὅὅ
Rufiji River
r
market, along the Tunduru road.
ive
Kilo Delta
m
iR
Mafia Island
Anglican Church Hostel (%260 0693; s/d with
fij
bero
MP
Ru
shared bathroom TSh2000/2500, with private bathroom Tanzania’s often forgotten southeastern cor-
River
r o
ὈὈὈὈ
Selous
ve er
TSh3000/3500) Clean rooms with mosquito nets, ner is a vast, beautiful area of open savanna
Ri omb
GR Songo Songo
h
just northwest of the main road. Next door is and long, white-sand beaches, though hardly
Lu
Kipatimo
a small restaurant. Head uphill from the bus anyone ventures this way to discover it. In
Nangurukuru Kilwa Kivinje
stand past the market to the Tanesco build- addition to the Selous Game Reserve, there
ing. Go left and wind your way back about are two marine parks (at Mafia Island and ive
r Kilwa Masoko
gu uR
400m to the Anglican church compound. Mnazi Bay); Kilwa Kisiwani, one of East Af- we
Lu iver tand
Kilwa Kisiwani
R Ma Songo Mnara
Don Bosco Hostel (d with shared bathroom TSh4000) rica’s most important archaeological sites;
ὈὈὈὈ iver
Pande
Spartan rooms just off the main road, be- and old Swahili trading settlements, includ-
uR
hind the Catholic church and near the bus ing Mikindani, Lindi and Kilwa Kivinje.
and
INDIAN
rang
stand. If you decide to visit, allow plenty of time
Mba
and be ready to rough things, especially on OCEAN
Getting There & Away the long, hard road journeys. The main ex-
River
Scandinavian departs daily at 6am (ordi- ceptions to this are Mafia Island and the Riv
er B2
Njenje
Liwale
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
ru
ku
nary) and 6.15am (luxury) for Dar es Salaam Selous Game Reserve, where a full range of wem Tendunguru
Mb
(TSh17,000/19,000 ordinary/luxury, 12 to amenities are available at five-star prices. Lindi
Lindi Mnazi Bay-
Bay Ruvula
13 hours); it’s best to book in advance. Sudi
Estuary
To Mbeya, Super Feo departs at 6am daily SELOUS GAME RESERVE Rondo
Mnazi Mmoja
(Mingoyo) Bay
MP
Msangamkuu
in each direction (TSh10,000, eight hours). With an area of approximately 45,000 sq km Plateau B2 Mikindani
Peninsula
To Njombe, minibuses and pick-ups go (5% of Tanzania’s total land area), the Se- Nachingwea Mtama Mtwara
Ruvula
Ὀ
Ziwani
daily in the morning, or take Scandinavian lous Game Reserve is Africa’s largest wild- Mahiwa Msimbati
Kilambo
or Super Feo and have them drop you off. life reserve and Tanzania’s most extensive
Lu
Ndanda
me
Mahurunga
For Mbamba Bay, transport goes daily protected area. It provides shelter for large B5
sul
To Songea
au
Msangesi e Kitaya Namiranga
(170km) at
eR
in the mornings to Mbinga (TSh3500, four numbers of elephants, as well as populations GR Masasi Pl
ive
n de Nanyamba
ko Palma
r
Chingulungulu
hours), from where you can get onward of buffaloes, wild dogs, hippos and croco- A19
Ma
transport to Mbamba Bay (TSh3000). diles, a rich variety of birdlife and some of A19 Nangomba
Newala
Tanzania’s last remaining black rhinos. One Lukwika-
TUNDURU of the reserve’s most striking features is the Tunduru Lumesule
GR Mpombe Nangade
Dusty Tunduru, halfway between Songea wide Rufiji River, which has one of the larg- Ru
vum a R i ve r Moçimboa
and Masasi, is in the centre of an important est water-catchment areas in East Africa, Masuguru do Rovuma
Niassa Negomane
gemstone-mining region and has a bit of a and which offers excellent opportunities for
r
R i ve
Reserve Moçimboa
er
Riv da Praia
Wild West feel to it. You’ll need to spend boat safaris. a
Lugenda
um
a night here if you’re travelling between Only the section of the reserve from the R uv MOZAMBIQUE
To Pemba
Songea and Masasi. The better guesthouses Rufiji River northwards is open for tourism. Mueda (Mozambique)
(218km)
are at the western end of town. There are Although overall wildlife density is lower
238 S O U T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • S e l o u s G a m e R e s e r v e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • S e l o u s G a m e R e s e r v e 239
Selous Game Reserve (Northern Section)
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
than in some of the northern-circuit parks, cottages or in plusher honeymoon bandas, SELOUS GAME RESERVE (NORTHERN SECTION) 0
0
16 km
10 miles
visitor numbers are also lower, which means and there’s a tree house. Excursions include
A B C D
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
you’ll still be able to see plenty of wildlife, walking safaris, wildlife drives and night
To Morogoro (145km);
but without the congestion of the north- drives outside the reserve. Free drop-offs Dar es Salaam (330km)
ern circuit. Another advantage is that you and pick-ups are provided to and from the
Uluguru
can explore the reserve by boat or on foot; Kisaki train station. 1 Mountains Kilengezi e r
R uvu R i v
a welcome change of pace if you’ve been Rufiji River Camp (%022-212 8662/3; www.hippo
cooped up in 4WD vehicles during other tours.com; s/d all-inclusive US$310/500; s ) This 3 Some Minor Roads
not Depicted
parts of your travels. Boat safaris down the long-standing and unpretentious camp has
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Rufiji or in the reserve’s lakes are offered a fine location on a wide bend in the Rufiji
Dutumi
by most of the camps and lodges. Most also River about 1km inside Mtemere Gate, and Kinyanguru SLEEPING
organise walking safaris, usually three-hour is frequented by pods of hippos. All tents Camp Site..................................1 B3
hikes near the camps, or further afield with have river views, and fly camping can be Camp Site..................................2 B2
Selous Jukumu Society Scout Station
the night spent at a fly camp. arranged. Kisaki 5 Game Reserve Campsite................................3 B1
Selous Impala Camp (%022-211 7959/60; www 2 Matambwe Fuga Rufiji River Camp.......................4 C3
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Sable Mountain Lodge...............5 A2
Information .coastal.cc; s/d all-inclusive US$430/700) Attractively set Matambwe
Beho Beho
Bridge
Sand Rivers Selous......................6 B3
Mikumi Selous Impala Camp..................7 C3
Admission to the reserve costs US$30 per on the riverbank near Lake Mzizimia amid National
Gate
Lake Selous Mbega Camp..................8 C3
Park 2
person, plus US$30 per vehicle per day. borassus palms and other vegetation. With Nzelekela Selous Safari Camp....................9 C3
Selous Lake
Camping costs US$20/40 at ordinary/special just six tents, it’s one of the smallest of the Grave Siwanda
Lake
Mzizimia
To Kidatu 1
camp sites. Children’s entry and camping Selous camps, and good value if you take (65km) Lake
9
7
fees are discounted. There’s an additional advantage of some of Coastal Travels’ (p118) Selous
Tagalala
Mtemere
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
US$20 per day fee for a mandatory wildlife flight-accommodation deals. Game Reserve
4 Mloka
6
guard in camping areas. Guides cost US$10, Sand Rivers Selous (www.nomad-tanzania.com; r 8 To Mkongo (50km);
or US$20 for walking safaris. The reserve per person all-inclusive US$485) Set splendidly on 3 Rive Mtemere Kibiti (85km);
Ru
Stiegler's
R ufiji Gate
fij
Gorge Dar es Salaam
headquarters is at Matambwe on the north- its own on the Rufiji River south of Lake
i
River (220km)
western edge of the Selous, and there’s a Tagalala, this is the Selous’ most exclusive a Riv
Gre at Ru ah
er
second entry gate at Mtemere to the east. option, with eight luxurious stone cottages
and some of Tanzania’s most renowned
Sleeping wildlife guides. Bookings can only be made
All of the Selous lodges and upmarket camps through upmarket travel agents. Multiday Getting There & Away CAR & MOTORCYCLE
offer boat safaris (some on the Rufiji River, walking safaris can also be arranged. AIR There’s no vehicle hire at the reserve, and
others on Lake Tagalala), wildlife drives and Selous Safari Camp (www.selous.com; s/d all-inclusive Coastal Aviation and ZanAir have daily motorcycles aren’t permitted.
guided walks. US$525/700; s) A luxurious camp set on a side flights linking Selous Game Reserve with There are two road options. The first is
arm of the Rufiji overlooking Lake Nzele- Dar es Salaam (US$120 one way), Zanzi- from Dar es Salaam to Mkongo via Kibiti
LODGES & TENTED CAMPS kela, with 12 spacious tents, a raised dining bar (US$130) and Arusha (via Dar), with and then on to Mtemere (250km, about
Selous Mbega Camp (%022-265 0250, www.selous and lounge area and impeccable service. connections to northern-circuit airstrips. eight hours). Alternatively, you can go from
-mbega-camp.com; camping US$10, s/d full board US$135/ Coastal also has flights between the Se- Dar es Salaam to Kisaki via Morogoro and
190, s/d ‘backpackers’ special for those arriving by public bus at CAMPING lous and Mafia (US$120), plus three flights then on to Matambwe through the Uluguru
Mloka US$70/100, excursions extra) A laid-back camp There are ordinary camp sites at Beho Beho weekly between Selous and Ruaha National Mountains (350km, at least nine hours).
about 500m outside the eastern boundary Bridge, 12km southeast of Matambwe, and Park (US$270). Flights into the Selous are This route is sometimes impassable during
of the Selous near Mtemere Gate and about at Lake Tagalala, midway between Mtemere generally suspended during the March to the heavy rains.
3km from Mloka village. It’s the best budget and Matambwe. Special camp sites can be May wet season. All lodges provide airfield From Dar es Salaam to Mtemere, the
choice, with eight en suite tents and a small arranged with the Wildlife Division (p113). transfers. last petrol station is at Kibiti (about 100km
camping ground (for which you’ll need to be Jukumu Society Scout Station Campsite (camping northeast of Mtemere gate), and coming
self-sufficient with food). Excursions (boat TSh5000) This is run by local wildlife scouts. BUS from the other direction, it’s at Morogoro.
safaris, wildlife drives and walks) cost US$35 There’s a pit toilet and bathing water is avail- Akida and Mwera bus lines have buses daily There’s no petrol available in the Selous.
per person, plus reserve fees. Pick-ups and able. It’s about 60km north of Matambwe between Dar es Salaam’s Temeke bus stand
drop-offs to and from Mloka are free. between Kilengezi and Dutumi. (departing from the Sudan Market area) and TRAIN
Sable Mountain Lodge (%022-211 0507; www It’s also possible to pitch your tent just Mloka village, about 10km east of Mtemere All Tazara trains stop at Kisaki, which is
.saadani.com; s/d all-inclusive from US$340/450; s ) east of Mtemere Gate at Selous Mbega Gate (TSh5000, seven to nine hours). De- about five to six hours from Dar es Salaam
This relaxed place is about halfway between Camp, which also has some good back- partures in both directions are at 5am. From and the first stop for the express train. Or-
Matambwe Gate and Kisaki village, just packer deals; see left. There’s nowhere Mloka, arrange a pick-up with one of the dinary trains stop at Kinyanguru and Fuga
outside the northwestern boundary of the near the Selous Game Reserve to stock up, camps in advance. There’s no accommo- stations (both of which are closer to the cen-
reserve, in an area known for its elephants. so bring everything with you, including dation in Mloka, and hitching within the tral camps) and at Matambwe (near Matam-
Accommodation is in cosy en suite stone water. Selous isn’t permitted. bwe Gate). All the lodges will do pick-ups
240 S O U T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • M a f i a I s l a n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • M a f i a I s l a n d 241
Mafia Island
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
(arranged in advance), see p265. It works MAFIA ISLAND 0
0
10 km
6 miles
best to take the train from Dar es Salaam to MAFIA ISLAND MARINE PARK
the Selous Game Reserve, as in the reverse Mafia Island Marine Park – the largest marine protected area in the Indian Ocean – shelters a
direction there are often long delays. unique complex of estuarine, mangrove, coral-reef and marine-channel ecosystems. These in-
For a treat, Foxes African Safaris (%0748- clude the only natural forest on the island and close to 400 fish species. There are also about
237422, 0744-237422; www.safariexpress.info) operate 10 villages within the park’s boundaries, the inhabitants of which depend on its natural resources
a private luxury train from Dar es Salaam for their livelihoods. As a result, the park has been classified as a multi-use area, with the aim of
to Kidatu, 25km north of the entry gate for Nyororo
Ras assisting local communities to develop sustainable practices that will allow conservation and
Mkumbi
Udzungwa Mountains National Park, via resource use to coexist.
Kinyanguru, Fuga, Matambwe and Kisaki Bweni The park isn’t set up for tourism, especially at the budget level. The main way to explore it
Shungumbili
stations. Departures in both directions are Mbarakuni
is to organise a diving excursion with one of the top-end hotels at Chole Bay. If you have your
in the morning on Sunday, Tuesday and Kirongwe
own gear, the park office may be able to help you out with snorkelling or set you up with a
Friday (US$120/180 one way/return be- INDIAN local fisherman to take you out.
tween Dar and stations in the Selous). OCEAN
Entry into the marine park area (payable by everyone, whether you dive or not) costs US$10/5
per adult/child per day. The fees are collected at a barrier gate across the main road about 1km
ὄὄ
MAFIA ISLAND Mafia before Utende, and can be paid in any major currency, cash. Save your receipt, as it’s checked
%023 Baleni
again when you leave. The park office (%240 2690) is in Utende near Pole Pole Resort.
Mafia Island lies about 120km off the coast, Kilindoni
sandwiched between the Rufiji River delta Bwejuu
Chole Bay
Kinasi
and the high seas. After remaining well off Ras Chole Pass no nets), bucket baths, good cheap food and with organic ingredients and are delicious,
Kisimani Kitoni Utende
the beaten track for years, the island is grad- a convenient location at the main junction and there’s an open-sided duara (gazebo)
ually coming into its own, although it’s still Mrima
Kua Juani in Kilindoni, about a five-minute walk from for relaxing. Excursions can be arranged.
Reef
out of the way enough to have escaped the Mange the airfield. Kinasi Lodge (%022-284 2525, 0741-242977; www
mass tourism that’s starting to overwhelm Reef Jibondo Sunset Resort Camp (%240 2522, ext 45, 0745- .mafiaisland.com; s/d full board & airport transfers from
nearby Zanzibar. It was an important trad- Kitutia
Reef
696067; [email protected]; camping US$5, bandas US$185/320; s) This is another top-notch
Mafia Island
ing post from the 11th to 13th centuries, Marine Park Boundary of Mafia Island per person with shared bathroom US$12) Camping choice, with 12 stone-and-thatch cottages set
Marine Park
when the Shirazis ruled much of the East on a lawn set on a cliff above the water, and around a long, manicured hillside sloping
African coast. Following a lengthy period of clean bucket showers. There are also a few down to Chole Bay, and a genteel, subdued
decline, Mafia again began to flourish in the simple twin-bedded bandas and meals on ambience. There’s an open lounge area with
early 18th century as a trade centre linking Sights & Activities order. It’s about 2km from Kilindoni’s cen- satellite TV, a small beach and windsurfer
Kilwa and Zanzibar. Most of the island is surrounded by man- tre, behind the hospital (TSh2000 in a taxi). hire, plus a dive centre and excursions.
Apart from its lack of hustle and bustle groves, but if you’re looking for beach, there Chole Mjini ([email protected]; s/d all-inclusive
and the chance to experience slow-paced are a few pristine sandbanks and small islets MIDRANGE & TOP END US$210/360) If your idea of the ultimate get-
coastal life, Mafia’s main attraction is its offshore. At Ras Mkumbi, Mafia’s wild and All the Chole Bay hotels are closed during away is sleeping in the treetops in a rustic
underwater environment, which hosts a vast windswept northernmost point, there’s a the April–May rainy season. All are also but comfortable ambience, Chole Mjini is
number of aquatic species and diverse coral lighthouse dating to 1892, as well as Kanga within the marine park area, which means the place to stay. Accommodation is in six
formations. To protect this, the southeast- Beach and a forest that’s home to monkeys you’ll also need to pay the US$10 daily park imaginatively designed tree houses (a cou-
ern part of the island, together with offshore and blue duikers, among others. entry fee. ple of which are actually lower stilt houses),
islets and waters, have been gazetted as a na- Most of the Chole Bay hotels organise div- Mafia Island Lodge (%022-211 7959/60; www each set on its own with views over the
tional marine park. Mafia is also notable as ing and snorkelling, including certification .mafialodge.com; Utende; s/d from US$52/75; ai) bay, the mangroves or the Chole ruins, and
a breeding ground for green and hawksbill courses. The former government hotel, this lodge on each accommodating up to three people.
turtles, which have nesting sites along the Chole Bay is a good choice if your budget There’s no electricity, and the bathrooms
eastern shores of Mafia and on the nearby Sleeping & Eating or tastes don’t stretch to a stay at one of its are at ground level, where each tree house
islands of Juani and Jibondo. BUDGET more upmarket neighbours. There’s a mix has its own outdoor shower garden. It’s on
Harbour View Resort (%240 2692; s with shared of renovated and standard rooms, all about Chole Island, offshore from Utende. Air-
Information bathroom & fan TSh7500, d with shared bathroom & air-con 300m in from the water, a restaurant and a port transfers cost extra.
Telephone calls can be made at New Lizu TSh12,000, with private bathroom & air-con TSh15,000; a) resident dive instructor. Airport transfers
Hotel in Kilindoni. Pole Pole Resort’s air- Clean, good-value budget rooms in a smart are US$10 per person each way. Getting There & Away
port office doubles as a tourist informa- house overlooking the harbour; food can be Pole Pole Resort (%022-260 1530; www.polepole Coastal Aviation has daily flights connect-
tion office. arranged. Head down the hill in Kilindoni .com; s/d full board & airport transfers US$260/400) This ing Mafia with Dar es Salaam (US$90) and
Internet Café (per hr TSh1500; h9am-9pm) On and go into the port area; turn left, and fol- beautiful place is set amid palm trees and Kilwa Masoko (US$70), both with onward
Utende road, in the town centre. low the waterside road for about 500m to tropical vegetation on a long hillside over- connections to Zanzibar, Selous Game Re-
National Microfinance Bank On the airport road, near Harbour View. looking Chole Bay. The bungalows are con- serve and Arusha. Kinasi Lodge has its own
the main junction; changes cash only (dollars, euros and New Lizu Hotel (%240 2683; s/d with shared bath- structed of local materials and have large, aircraft for guests, with seats on a space-
pounds). room TSh5000/10,000) Reasonable rooms (no frills, private verandas, meals are made primarily available basis for nonguests. All the Chole
242 S O U T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • K i l w a K i v i n j e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • K i l w a K i s i w a n i 243
Kilwa Masoko
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
Bay hotels arrange airfield transfers for their The best way to visit Kilwa Kivinje is as a KILWA MASOKO Rehabilitation work is underway on the
guests (included in the room price, except day trip from Kilwa Masoko. Overnight op- 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
road from the Rufiji River south to Kilwa
as noted). tions are limited to a clutch of nondescript Masoko, and it should soon be easily pass-
Dhows go to the island from Kisiju, about guesthouses near the market, all with rooms A Airstrip
B able year-round.
Catholic
45km southeast of Mkuranga on the Dar es for about TSh3000, and all rivalling each To Kilwa Kivinje (25km);
Nangurukuru (35km); Church To Masoko To Nangurukuru (TSh1500, one hour)
Pwani (4km);
Salaam–Mtwara road. Take a daladala from other in grubbiness. Among the better ones 1 Lindi (200km); Dar
es Salaam (320km) Upepo Pwani and Kilwa Kivinje (TSh1000, 45 minutes),
(4km)
Dar es Salaam to Mtoni-Mtongani (about are King Wardo and Mziwanda near the pick-ups depart several times daily from the
8km south of the city along the Kilwa road), market and New Sudi Guest House. main road just up from the market.
from where several pick-ups daily go to Pick-ups travel several times daily to/from To Dar es Salaam, a bus departs daily
ὄὄ
Kisiju (TSh2000, two hours). Kilwa Masoko, and the bus between Dar Market
in each direction at about 5am (TSh6500,
6
From Kisiju, dhows leave every day or es Salaam and Kilwa Masoko also stops at 9 7 5 nine to 10 hours). Buses from Kilwa depart
two except Sunday for Mafia, and charge Kilwa Kivinje. Mapinduzi St from the market, and should be booked in
4
about TSh4000. Departures depend on the advance. Departures in Dar es Salaam are
Lumumba St
tides and are generally before dawn. The KILWA MASOKO from the Temeke bus stand.
usual procedure is to arrive in Kisiju in The town of Kilwa Masoko (Kilwa of the 2 From Dar es Salaam it’s also possible
ὄὄ
Bank St
the late afternoon, board the boat at about Market) is the springboard for visiting the to get a bus heading to Lindi or Mtwara
Kariakoo St
To Kilwa Seaview
2
9pm and sleep on it until departure. With ruins of the 15th-century Arab settlements Resort (200m)
and get out at Nangurukuru junction, from
good winds, you should arrive in Mafia by at Kilwa Kisiwani and Songo Mnara, and as Masoko Urban where you can get local transport to Kilwa
Health Centre
late afternoon, although the trip can take such, the gateway into one of the most sig- Kivinje (TSh500, 11km) or Kilwa Masoko
much longer. Going in the other direction, nificant eras of East African coastal history. Anglican
Church
(35km), but you’ll generally need to pay the
boats leave from the port at Kilindoni. The The National Microfinance Bank on the 3
full Lindi or Mtwara fare.
boarding procedure and departure times main road changes cash but not travellers 1
Heading south, go first to Nangurukuru,
ch
are the same as at Kisiju. cheques; there’s no Internet connection. from where there is a vehicle most mornings
Be a
On the eastern edge of town is Jimbizi 3 to Lindi.
iz i
Getting Around Beach, an attractive, baobab-studded arc
J i mb
Some Minor Roads
Daladalas to both Utende (TSh1500) and of sand. 8 not Depicted KILWA KISIWANI
Bweni at about 1pm, returning from each Kilwa Kisiwani (‘Kilwa on the Island’,
destination about 7am. The Kilindoni dala- Sleeping & Eating historically known simply as Kilwa) was
dala stop is along the road that goes down New Mjaka Guest House & Hotel (Main Rd; s with once East Africa’s most important trading
to the port. You can also hire pick-ups in shared bathroom TSh3000, s/d banda TSh5000/10,000) INDIAN settlement – the seat of sultans and the cen-
Kilindoni to take you around the island; This hotel has no-frills rooms, nicer bandas, OCEAN tre of a vast trading network linking the
expect to pay about TSh15,000 return be- a reasonably reliable water supply and a gold fields of Zimbabwe with the Orient.
tween Kilindoni and Utende. restaurant. 4 Today the ruins of the settlement – together
Local boats can be chartered to Jibondo Kilwa Seaview Resort (%022-265 0250; www.kilwa INFORMATION with the ruins of nearby Songo Mnara – are
District Commissioner's Office................1 A3
and the other islands, and there is also a .net; camping US$5, s/d/tr US$60/70/75) Spacious, National Microfinance Bank....................2 A2 considered to be one of the most significant
sporadic local service. Expect to pay from breezy A-frame cottages perched along a SLEEPING
groups of Swahili buildings on the East Afri-
TSh3000, depending on the destination. small escarpment at the eastern end of Jim- Kilwa Lodge............................................3 B3 can coast, and have been declared a Unesco
New Mjaka Guest House & Hotel...........4 A2
bizi Beach, a good restaurant (meals from World Heritage Site. Major rehabilitation
KILWA KIVINJE TSh4500) and space to pitch a tent. EATING work is underway, and the main sections
Night Market..........................................5 B2
Kilwa Kivinje (Kilwa of the Casuarina Kilwa Lodge (%023-240 2397, 0748-205586; kilwa Roadside Classic Park.............................6 A2
of the ruins are more accessible than they
Trees) owes its existence to Omani Arabs [email protected]; Jimbizi Beach; per person full board have been in decades.
5 TRANSPORT
from Kilwa Kisiwani who set up a base here standard/luxury chalet US$70/110; as) An angling Buses to Dar es Salaam...........................7 B2
in the early 19th century following the fall camp in the centre of Jimbizi Beach, with Jetty & boats to Kilwa Kisiwani, History
Songo Mnara & Pande........................8 A3
of the Kilwa sultanate. By the mid-19th cen- rustic en suite cabins set back from the water, Transport to Kilwa Kivinje & Although the coast near Kilwa Kisiwani has
tury the settlement had become the hub of a few beachside chalets, a restaurant and a Nangurukuru......................................9 A2 been inhabited for several thousand years,
the regional slave-trading network, and by popular beachside bar. In addition to fishing, evidence of early settlements in the area dates
the late 19th century, a German administra- sea kayaks and diving can also be arranged, back only to around the 9th century. In the
tive centre. With the abolition of the slave as can excursions. Getting There & Away early 13th century trade links developed with
trade, and German wartime defeats, Kilwa Roadside Classic Park (Main Rd; meals TSh1000) This Coastal Aviation has three flights weekly Sofala, 1500km to the south in present-day
Kivinje’s brief period in the spotlight came place, diagonally across from New Mjaka, has from Dar es Salaam to Kilwa via Mafia Mozambique. Ultimately, Kilwa came to con-
to an end. Today, it’s a crumbling, moss- local dishes, outdoor seating and a bar. (US$110 one way Dar es Salaam to Kilwa, trol Sofala and dominate its lucrative gold
covered and highly atmospheric relic of the Kilwa’s atmospheric night market, be- US$70 one way Mafia–Kilwa), and between trade, and it soon became the most powerful
past with a Swahili small-town feel and an tween the main street and the market, sells Zanzibar and Kilwa (US$130 one way). The trade centre along the East African coast.
intriguing mixture of German-colonial and inexpensive fish and other snacks from dusk airstrip is about 2km north of town along In the late 15th century Kilwa’s for-
Omani-Arab architecture. onwards. the main road. tunes began to turn. Sofala freed itself from
244 S O U T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • S o n g o M n a r a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • M t w a r a 245
Mtwara
TA N Z A N I A
TA N Z A N I A
the island’s dominance, and in the early SONGO MNARA Adela Guest House (Ghana St; r with shared bathroom MTWARA 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
16th century Kilwa came under the con- Songo Mnara, about 8km south of Kilwa TSh4000) Another budget stand-by, with basic
trol of the Portuguese. It wasn’t until 200 Kisiwani, contains ruins at its northern end rooms with net and fan. It’s just off the main A B
years later that Kilwa regained its inde- that are believed to date from the 14th and road that goes towards Mtwara, near the INDIAN
Shangani
pendence and became a significant centre 15th centuries, and are considered in many Msinjaili primary school. OCEAN Beach
again – this time as a centre for the shipment respects to be more significant than those Muna’s (Amani St; meals TSh2000) Just up from 1
To Drive-In Garden
& Cliff Bar (1km);
of slaves to the islands of Mauritius, Réunion at Kilwa, although they’re less visually im- the harbour, Muna’s has good, inexpensive VETA (2.5km)
10
Shangani
8
and Comoros. In the 1780s Kilwa came pressive. The small island of Sanje ya Kati, meals.
under the control of the sultan of Oman. By between Songo Mnara and Kilwa Masoko, INFORMATION
the mid-19th century the island town had has some lesser ruins, also believed to date Getting There & Away Makonde Net.........................1
NBC Bank & ATM..................2
B3
B3
completely declined and the local adminis- from the same era. The Kilwa Kisiwani per- Precision Air flies twice weekly between Dar TTCL......................................3 B3
Shangani
tration was relocated to Kilwa Kivinje. mit includes the ruins at Songo Mnara. es Salaam and Lindi, with onward connec- SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Msangamkuu
Peninsula
You can charter a motorboat from the dis- tions to Nachingwea. The airfield is about Market...................................4 B4
y
St Paul's Church.....................5 B5 err
Information trict commissioner’s office in Kilwa Masoko 20km north of town. no
eF
Ca
To visit the ruins, you will need to get a per- (TSh35,000 return). Alternatively, there’s a Buses to Mtwara depart daily between
Sha
2
nga
mit (TSh1500 per person) from the district far cheaper motorised local dhow departing about 5am and 10am. Dhow Port & Mtwara
ni R
Fish Market Bay
commissioner’s office (Halmashauri ya Wilaya ya Kilwa; most mornings at about 6am from Kilwa To Masasi (TSh3000), there are several
d
h7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) in Kilwa Masoko, di- Masoko for Pande that will stop on request at buses each morning. Port
Cathedral
agonally across from the post office. Go to Songo Mnara. Returning to Kilwa Masoko, For Dar es Salaam (TSh15,000, nine to 11
Room 13, or ask for Ofisi ya Utamaduni (An- the boat departs Pande about 1pm. hours), there are direct buses daily, depart- Por
tR
d
tiquities Office). Guides (required to visit the ing Lindi about 6am. There are no direct
island) can be arranged through the Antiqui- LINDI buses from Lindi to Kilwa Masoko or Kilwa
%023
3
ties Office, or through your hotel. Kivinje. To get to either of these places Sab
aS Aga Khan Rd
aba
In its early days, Lindi was part of the sul- you’ll need to catch the Dar es Salaam bus 3 Rd 1
Ruins tan of Zanzibar’s domain, a terminus of the and get out at Nangurukuru (TSh6500, six 16 11 14
Ligula
The ruins are in two groups. When approach- slave caravan route from Lake Nyasa, the re- to seven hours), from where you can get Uh
uru
Rd
ing Kilwa Kisiwani, the first building you’ll gional colonial capital and the main town in onward transport. Once the Tarmac road 2
d
uR
find is the Arab fort, built in the early 19th southeastern Tanzania. Today, although it’s is completed between Lindi and Dar es
Tan
century by Omani Arabs. To the southwest of not nearly as atmospheric as Kilwa Kivinje Salaam – anticipated within the next sev- 12
the fort are the ruins of the now restored Great further north, its small dhow port still bus- eral years – expect all this information to
Sokoine Rd
Rd
Mosque, some sections of which date to the tles with local coastal traffic. A smattering change. on
de
ak
late 13th century. Behind the Great Mosque of carved doorways and crumbling ruins 7 M
is a smaller mosque, which dates from the line the dusty streets, and a Hindu temple MTWARA 4
%023
9
early 15th century and is considered to be and Indian merchants serve as reminders of Chikongola
the best preserved of the buildings at Kilwa once-prosperous trade routes to the east. Mtwara, southeastern Tanzania’s major set- 13 4
Jam
Kisiwani. To the west of the small mosque About 6km north of town off the airfield tlement, is a sprawling, friendly town on
Rd
hur 15
i
de
Main
are the crumbling remains of the Makutani, a road is Mtema Beach, with soft drinks and Mtwara Bay. It’s well off most tourist itin- Majengo
kon
Roundabout
Ma
large walled enclosure in the centre of which food on weekends. eraries and is easily overlooked, but it’s a Zam
Rd
bia 5
Rd
ani
lived some of the sultans of Kilwa Kisiwani. good staging point on the overland journey 6
Mikind
About 1.5km from the fort along the coast Information to/from Mozambique, and is a laid-back,
is Husuni Kubwa, once a massive complex of Brigita Dispensary (%220 2679; Makonde St) Near likable place.
buildings covering about 0.8 hectares and, Gift Guest House; the best place for medical emergencies. Mtwara was first developed after WWII 5
together with the nearby Husuni Ndogo, the Internet Café (Amani St; per hr TSh2000; h9am-7pm) by the British as part of their East African
oldest of Kilwa Kisiwani’s ruins, though now A few blocks up from the harbour, near Muna’s restaurant. Groundnut Scheme, a project aimed at al- SLEEPING
very overgrown. To get here, walk along the NBC (Lumumba St) Changes cash and travellers cheques. leviating the postwar shortage of plant oils Mtwara Lutheran Centre....................6 A5
To Airport (5km); Nandope Guest House.......................7 A4
beach at low tide, or take the slightly longer through the implementation of large-scale Mikindani (10km); Southern Cross Hotel..........................8 B1
Lindi (100km)
inland route. Sleeping & Eating groundnut (peanut) production. Follow- EATING
Malaika (%220 2880; Market St; s/d TSh7500/9000) ing the failure of the scheme, Mtwara’s Mtwara Deluxe Hotel.........................9 B4
Safina...............................................10 A1
Getting There & Away One block east of the market with clean, port continued to serve as a regional export Shabu Restaurant.............................11 B3
Local boats go from the port at Kilwa no-frills rooms with net and fan. There’s also channel, while development of the town
TRANSPORT
Masoko to Kilwa Kisiwani whenever there a decent restaurant. came to a standstill. 6 Air Tanzania.....................................12 A4
are passengers (one way TSh200). Charter- Gift Guest House (%220 2462; cnr Market & Ma- Bus & Taxi Stand..............................13 B4
MV Safari Booking Office.................14 B3
ing your own boat costs TSh1000 each way konde Sts; r with shared bathroom TSh5000) Just down Orientation Pick-ups to Msimbati & Kilambo (for
(TSh10,000 return for a boat with motor). Market St from Malaika, and a decent, albeit Mtwara is loosely centred around a busi- Mozambique)............................... 15
Taxi Stand........................................16
B4
B3
There’s also a TSh300 port fee. more basic, alternative if Malaika is full. ness and banking area to the northwest,
TA N Z A N I A 246 S O U T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • M t w a r a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E A S T E R N TA N Z A N I A • • M i k i n d a n i 247
TA N Z A N I A
near Uhuru and Aga Khan Rds, and the From the T-junction in Shangani, go left and departing Mtwara between 6am and 8am Sleeping & Eating
market and bus stand about 1.5km away to continue for about 3km. It’s about 200m in daily. You can also reach Newala via Masasi, Old Boma at Mikindani (%233 3875, 0742-767642;
the southeast, bordered by the lively neigh- to the left (no swimming beach). There’s although this often entails an overnight stay www.mikindani.com; r half board with/without balcony
bourhoods of Majengo and Chikongola. In no public transport; taxis charge TSh3000 in Masasi. US$120/100, ste US$180; s ) This beautifully
the far northwest on the sea, and a good 30 from town. To Dar es Salaam, there are buses four restored building offers spacious, high-
minutes on foot from the bus stand, is the Southern Cross Hotel (%233 3206, 0741-506047; times weekly (TSh17,000, about 20 hours), ceilinged doubles and top-end standards,
Shangani quarter, with a small beach and www.msemo.com; s/d US$30/50) This nice place di- departing Mtwara anytime between morn- and is well worth a splurge. There’s a ‘sun-
several guesthouses. rectly overlooks the sea at the eastern end ing and early afternoon, and from Dar es set terrace’ overlooking the bay, or you can
of Shangani Beach, with a relaxing and very Salaam by 8am. climb the tower for views over town.
Information tasty seaside restaurant, and a handful of To Mozambique, there are several pick- Ten Degrees South Lodge (%0748-855833; www
Makonde Net (per hr TSh1000; h8.30am-6pm Mon- spotless, good-value rooms. Profits from the ups daily to the Tanzanian immigration post .eco2.com; r with shared bathroom US$15-25) A budget
Sat, 9am-2pm Sun) Just off Aga Khan Rd in the town centre. hotel support primary healthcare services in at Kilambo (TSh3000), departing Mtwara travellers’ base, with simple rooms – all with
NBC (Uhuru Rd) Changes cash and travellers cheques, and the Mtwara region. between 8am and 11am. Departures are large beds and nets – and a good restaurant-
has an ATM. from the eastern side of the market in front bar (meals from TSh4000) with a popular
TTCL (Tanu Rd; h7.45am-12.45pm & 1.30-4.30pm Eating of the Aaliyah Trading Company building. Saturday evening barbecue. Diving can be
Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat) Operator-assisted domestic The fish market at the Msangamkuu boat For more on crossing the Ruvuma River, see arranged through ECO2 (check out www
and international calls, and a card phone. dock is good for street food. p260. The best places for information on the .eco2.com), which is based at the hotel.
Of the restaurants mentioned under Sleep- ferry are the Old Boma (right) and Ten De-
Sights & Activities ing, the ones at VETA and Southern Cross grees South (right), in Mikindani. Getting There & Away
In town there’s a lively market with a small Hotel are the best. Other options include: Mikindani is 10km from Mtwara along a
traditional-medicine section next to the Shabu Restaurant (Aga Khan Rd; meals TSh1000; BOAT sealed road, and an easy bike ride. Mini-
main building. Much of Mtwara’s fish comes h8am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun) In the town The MV Safari sails weekly between Dar es buses (TSh200) run between the two towns
from Msangamkuu on the other side of Mt- centre, serving local fare, snacks and fresh Salaam and Mtwara; see p125. The booking throughout the day.
wara Bay, and the small dhow port and adjoin- yogurt. office (%233 3591, 233 3550; Aga Khan St) is just up
ing fish market are particularly colourful in Mtwara Deluxe Hotel (meals TSh2000; hlunch & from Shabu Restaurant. MSANGAMKUU PENINSULA & MNAZI
the early morning and late afternoon. The dinner) Near the bus stand, with Indian and BAY–RUVUMA ESTUARY MARINE PARK
beach in Shangani is popular for swimming other dishes. Getting Around Msangamkuu Peninsula lies northeast of
on weekends (high tide only). For some im- Safina (Container Shop; h8am-9pm) For self- Taxis to or from the airport (6km south- Mtwara and, together with Msimbati and
pressive artwork, stop by St Paul’s church in the catering, at the main junction in Shangani. east of the main roundabout) cost TSh5000. Mnazi Bay to the south, has been gazetted
Majengo area of town, south of the market. It has a good selection of basics, plus cold There are taxi ranks at the bus stand and as Tanzania’s second marine park, protect-
drinks. near the corner of Uhuru and Tanu Rds. A ing more than 400 marine species as well as
Sleeping few daladalas run along Tanu Rd to and from coastal ecosystems. Everything’s still very
BUDGET Getting There & Away the bus stand. much in the initial stages, but it’s hoped
Drive-In Garden & Cliff Bar (camping TSh2500) A There are daily flights between Mtwara and that ultimately the park will be the core
shady, secure spot for camping, with an Dar es Salaam (TSh144,500, one hour) on MIKINDANI of a conservation area extending as far as
inexpensive restaurant and small bar. It’s Air Tanzania (%233 3147; Tanu Rd; hclosed during %023 Pemba in Mozambique. Marine park entry
in Shangani: go left at the main junction flight arrivals and departures). Mikindani is a tiny Swahili town with an fees are US$10 per day, and are collected at
and follow the road paralleling the beach interesting history, lots of coconut groves the marine park office near the entrance to
for about 1.5km to the small signpost on BUS and a picturesque bay. It’s easily visited as Msimbati village. For diving, contact ECO2,
your left. All long-distance buses depart from the main a day trip from Mtwara, and also makes a based at Ten Degrees South Lodge (above)
Mtwara Lutheran Centre (%233 3294; Mikindani bus stand just off Sokoine Rd near the mar- good base in its own right. in Mikindani.
Rd; dm TSh2500, d with shared bathroom TSh5000, s with ket; most departures are in the morning. The town gained prominence early on as
private bathroom TSh 10,000) Decent rooms (most To Masasi (TSh3500, five to six hours), a major dhow port and a terminus for trade Msangamkuu Peninsula
with nets), fairly reliable water and electricity buses depart approximately hourly between caravans travelling from Lake Nyasa. In the The section of Msangamkuu Peninsula
supplies, and meals on request. about 6am and 2pm; once in Masasi you’ll 19th century Mikindani served as headquar- lying directly opposite Mtwara offers some
Nandope Guest House (%233 4060; r with shared need to change vehicles for Tunduru and ters of the German colonial government and decent beaches and snorkelling (bring your
bathroom TSh3500) One of the cheapest options, Songea. several buildings from the era remain, in- own equipment, and don’t bring valuables).
with no-frills rooms, some with mosquito To Lindi (TSh2000, three hours), there cluding the impressive boma, built in 1895. There’s no accommodation.
nets. It’s about 400m west of Tanu Rd, down are two buses daily, departing Mtwara be- Dhows and canoes go throughout the day
the unpaved road near the police station. tween about 9am and 11am. The post bus Information to/from Shangani boat dock in Mtwara (one
departs Mtwara at around noon daily except The closest banking facilities are in Mtwara. way TSh100).
MIDRANGE Tuesday. Departures in the other direction The Old Boma has a tourist information
VETA (%233 4094; s TSh15,000, ste TSh35,000; s) are in the mornings. office, and is the best place for organising Msimbati
Good-value rooms, all with a large bed, TV Buses to Newala (TSh5000, six to eight walking tours of town and excursions in The Msimbati Peninsula, about 42km from
and views over the water, plus a restaurant. hours) use the southern route via Nanyamba, the area. Mtwara on Mnazi Bay, boasts an excellent
TA N Z A N I A 248 TA N Z A N I A D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com TA N Z A N I A D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s 249
TA N Z A N I A
beach and a string of mostly unexplored Ndanda commodation plus excursions such as wild-
offshore reefs. Most visitors head straight Ndanda, along the Mtwara–Tunduru road, life drives, short guided walks or boat safaris, PRACTICALITIES
to the tiny settlement of Ruvula, which is about 40km northeast of Masasi, is notable and sometimes park entry fees and airport Tanzania uses the metric system for
about 7km beyond Msimbati village along for its large Benedictine monastery and the transfers. weights and measures.
a sandy track (or along the beach at low adjoining hospital that serves as the major From late June to August and again
You can access electricity (220-250V AC,
tide), and has the best stretch of sand in health clinic for the region. About a 45- around the Christmas and New Year holi-
50Hz) with British-style three-square-pin
the area. minute walk south of the monastery (uphill) days, many hotels levy an additional ‘peak-
or two-round-pin plug adaptors.
Ruvula Sea Safari (camping TSh5000, bandas per per- is a small dam where you can swim. season’ charge on top of regular high-season
son with full board TSh35,000) in Ruvula has simple Nuru Ndanda Hotel (r with shared bathroom rates. During the March to early June low English-language newspapers available
bandas near the sea and the beach at your TSh3500), diagonally across from the hospital season you can often get discounts of up to include the dailies Guardian and Daily
doorstep. A few basics are available in Msim- at the bus stand, has basic rooms and a tiny 50% on room prices. A residents’ permit News and the weeklies Business Times,
bati village, but if you’re camping, stock up restaurant. also entitles you to some discounts. Financial Times and the East African. The
in Mtwara. international newspaper the International
There’s at least one pick-up daily in each Masasi Camping Herald Tribune is also available.
direction between Mtwara and Msimbati %023 It’s a good idea to carry a tent if you’re plan- Radio Tanzania is the government-
(TSh2000, one hour), departing Mtwara by Masasi, a bustling district centre, stretches ning to travel in off-the-beaten-track areas, aligned national station, broadcasting
11am from the eastern side of the market. out along the main road off the edge of the and it can save you some money in and in English and Swahili. BBC’s World
Departures from Msimbati are at around Makonde Plateau against a backdrop of around the northern parks (though camp- Service and Deutsche Welle transmit in
6am. On weekends it’s easy enough to hitch. granite hills. It’s an important transport hub ing in the parks themselves will cost at least English and Swahili.
Between Msimbati and Ruvula the options for onward travel west towards Tunduru and $20 per person per night). Camping isn’t
are hitching, arranging a lift on a bicycle north to Nachingwea and Liwale. permitted on Zanzibar.
with locals or walking along the beach at Better guesthouses include Holiday Guest Hotels, Lodges & Luxury Camps
low tide. House (r TSh6000), at the western end of town NATIONAL PARKS In Tanzania, en suite rooms (ie with private
near the petrol station, and Sayari Hotel (%251 All of the parks have camp sites. ‘Ordinary’ bathroom) are widely referred to as ‘self-
MAKONDE PLATEAU & AROUND 0095; r TSh9400), at the eastern end of town near camp sites have basic facilities; generally pit contained’ or ‘self-container’ rooms. In ad-
The seldom-visited Makonde Plateau, much the post office, and with a restaurant. toilets and sometimes a water source. ‘Spe- dition to a rapidly improving selection of
of which lies between 700m and 900m cial’ camp sites are more remote, and have midrange and top-end accommodation in
above sea level, is home to the Makonde GETTING THERE & AWAY no facilities at all; the idea is that the area major towns, the country also has some of
people, famed throughout East Africa for The bus stand is at the far western end of remain as close to pristine as possible. Un- East Africa’s most beautiful luxury lodges
their carvings. town on the Tunduru road. Coming from like ordinary camp sites, special camp sites on the safari circuits and on the coast, at
Mtwara, ask the driver to drop you at your must be booked in advance, and you’ll usu- correspondingly high prices – from US$70
Newala hotel or at the petrol station to avoid the walk ally have them to yourself. For most national to US$500 per person per night. Prices at the
%023 back to town. Buses leave for Mtwara ap- park camp sites, you’ll need to bring every- upper end of the spectrum are all-inclusive.
Dusty, bustling Newala is the major settle- proximately hourly between 6am and 2pm. thing in with you, including drinking water.
ment on the plateau, with pleasantly cool Land Rovers and (in the dry season) buses Most parks also have simple huts or bandas, ACTIVITIES
temperatures and views over the Ruvuma go to Tunduru daily, departing before dawn several have basic resthouses, and many Beachcombing & Island Hopping
Valley. There’s an old German fort (now (12 hours, 200km). northern-circuit parks have hostels. Tanzania has a magnificent coastline, and
the police station) on the edge of the escarp- it’s easy to make a holiday out of explor-
ment at the southern edge of town. Newala
is near the Mozambican border, so it’s a
good idea to carry your passport when wan-
TANZANIA DIRECTORY Homestays
Students spending extended periods in Tan-
zania studying Swahili frequently arrange
ing and relaxing on the beaches and nearby
islands. Highlights include the Zanzibar
Archipelago (p128); southeastern Tanzania
dering around. This section covers information specific to to stay with local families. Costs are very (p236), with fine stretches of sand at Msim-
Country Lodge Bed & Breakfast (%241 0355; s Tanzania. For general information applic- reasonable, and you’ll usually be expected to bati and elsewhere, plus Mafia and Kilwa
with shared bathroom TSh5000, s/d with private bathroom able to the region, see p617. take your meals with the family. Kisiwani islands; and the mainland coast
TSh7000/10,000) has simple rooms – most with around Pangani (p162).
nets – and a restaurant. It’s about 600m ACCOMMODATION Hostels, Guesthouses & Budget Hotels Inland beaches and islands are equally
from the centre of town along the Masasi In this chapter, continental breakfast (cof- Water can be a problem during the dry sea- alluring, including the languid Lake Nyasa
road. fee/tea, bread, jam and sometimes an egg) son, and many cheaper places don’t have shoreline (p234), the shoreline of Lake
There are several less expensive guest- is included in accommodation prices unless running or hot water, though all will arrange Tanganyika around Mahale Mountains Na-
houses in the area around the market and noted. For safari lodges, quoted prices don’t a bucket if you ask. Note that in Tanzanian tional Park (p217) and the island habitats of
the bus stand, with no-frills rooms sharing include wildlife drives or excursions except Swahili, hotel (or hoteli) refers to food and Rubondo Island National Park (p206).
bathroom for about TSh3000. as stated. Inquire when booking, as these drink, rather than accommodation. The more
Buses run daily between Newala and Mt- add significantly to the price. Many lodges common term if you’re looking for some- Bird-Watching
wara (TSh5000, six to eight hours) and Ne- and luxury camps in or near national parks where to sleep is guesti or ‘guesthouse’ or, In addition to the national parks, top birding
wala and Masasi (TSh3500, three hours). quote all-inclusive prices, which means ac- more formally, nyumba ya kulala wageni. spots include Lake Victoria, Lake Eyasi and
TA N Z A N I A 250 TA N Z A N I A D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com TA N Z A N I A D I R E C T O R Y • • B o o k s 251
TA N Z A N I A
the eastern Usambara mountains. Useful Fishing BOOKS through a tour operator, as otherwise they
websites include the Tanzania Bird Atlas (http: Upscale hotels on Mafia, Pemba and Zan- See p17 for titles to whet your appetite for are often overlooked. Most upscale hotels
//tanzaniabirdatlas.com/), the Tanzania Bird Checklist zibar can arrange deep-sea fishing charters. East Africa. Lonely Planet’s Tanzania covers have pools. Playgrounds are a rarity, though
(www.tanzaniabirding.com/bird_checklists.htm) and Other contacts include Ras Kutani (p127) the country in more depth. Some additional you’ll find the occasional one in larger towns.
the Tanzania Hotspots page on www.camac and Kilwa Lodge (p242). titles on Tanzania include the following. Mosquito nets are best brought from home.
donald.com/birding/africatanzania.htm. On Lake Victoria – renowned for its Nile An Ice-Cream War by William Boyd. A
perch – the best contacts are Lukuba Island snapshot of what is now Tanzania during COURSES
Boating Lodge (p210), Rubondo Island Camp (p207) WWI. Language
Selous Game Reserve (p236) is the best place and Wag Hill Lodge (p203). Memoirs of an Arabian Princess by Emily Tanzania is the best place in East Africa to
for boat safaris; there are also possibilities at Said-Ruete. The very readable autobiog- learn Swahili. Schools (many of which can
Saadani Game Reserve (p160), and Arusha Hiking & Trekking raphy of a Zanzibari princess who elopes arrange home stays) include the following:
National Park (p188) has canoe safaris. Tanzania’s main hiking areas are the Usam- with a German to Europe in the days of Institute of Swahili & Foreign Languages (Map
For upscale trips down the Rufiji River bara and Pare Mountains in the northeast, the sultans. p134; %024-223 0724, 223 3337; [email protected];
and to Mafia Island, contact Pole Pole Re- Udzungwa Mountains National Park, the Ul- Sand Rivers by Peter Matthiessen. Go on Vuga Rd, Zanzibar Town) Also see www.glcom
sort (p241) or Kinasi Lodge (p241). uguru Mountains near Morogoro, the lower safari with the author into the heart of Selous .com/hassan/takiluki.html.
Dar es Salaam, Tanga and Mikindani have slopes of Mt Kilimanjaro around Marangu Game Reserve. KIU Ltd (%022-285 1509; www.swahilicourses.com) At
yacht clubs, and there are several boats on the and Machame, and the Crater Highlands. Through a Window by Jane Goodall. A various locations in Dar es Salaam.
Zanzibar Archipelago that can be chartered Other possibilities include Mt Hanang, and vivid portrayal of the author’s research and Makoko Language School (%028-264 2518; swahili
for longer cruises; see p153. the areas around Mbeya, Tukuyu and the life with the chimpanzees of Gombe Stream [email protected]) On the outskirts of Musoma.
Kitulo Plateau in the southwest. Except in the National Park. MS Training Centre for Development Cooperation
Chimpanzee Tracking western Usambaras around Lushoto (where We Must Run While They Walk – A Por- (%027-255 3837/8; www.mstcdc.or.tz) About 15km
Gombe Stream National Park (p216) and there’s an informal guide organisation and trait of Africa’s Julius Nyerere by William E outside Arusha, near Usa River.
Mahale Mountains National Park (p217) a network of guesthouses) and in the Crater Smith. A good background on the states- University of Dar es Salaam (%022-241 0757; www
are excellent destinations if you’re interested Highlands (where most hiking is organised man’s life and philosophy. .udsm.ac.tz/kiswahilicourses.html) In Dar es Salaam.
in observing our primate cousins at close through operators), you’ll need to organise Zanzibar Tales by George Bateman &
range. Gombe is the more easily accessible things yourself. In most areas it is required Walter Bobbett. A translated collection of CUSTOMS
choice, and also has the advantage that the or recommended to go with a guide, which, Swahili folk tales dating from the late 19th Exporting seashells, coral, ivory and turtle
chimps are more readily spotted, with sight- apart from adding to the cost, can feel quite and early 20th centuries. shell is illegal. You can export up to TSh2000
ings almost guaranteed. Mahale has an un- constraining if you’re used to just setting off without declaration. There’s no limit on
paralleled setting, and chances of sightings on your own. When formalising your ar- BUSINESS HOURS importation of foreign currency; amounts
are also high, although you generally need rangements, be sure you and the guide agree In addition to regular banking hours, many over US$10,000 must be declared.
to work a bit harder and climb more steeply on how much territory will be covered each forex bureaus remain open until 5pm Mon-
to find them. There are also chimpanzees at day, as local expectations about suitable daily day through Friday, and until noon on Sat- DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Rubondo Island National Park (p206), but sections on standard routes in places like the urday. Throughout the region, shops and Tanzania is in general a safe, hassle-free
the chimp tracking here can’t compare with Usambaras are often unsatisfyingly short if offices often close for one to two hours country, and can be a relief if you’ve recently
that at the western parks. you’re an experienced hiker. between noon and 2pm, and – especially been somewhere like Nairobi. That said, you
The main trekking destinations are Mt in coastal areas – on Friday afternoons for do need to take the usual precautions. Avoid
Cycling & Mountain Biking Kilimanjaro (p175) and Mt Meru (p190). All mosque services. isolated areas, especially isolated stretches of
For general information see p636. Green trekking requires local guides and (usually) beach, and in cities and tourist areas take a
Footprint Adventures (p92) organises short porters. Be aware of the dangers of Acute CHILDREN taxi at night. When using public transport,
rides near Lake Manyara National Park. In Mountain Sickness (AMS). In extreme cases See p621 for general information. All Tan- don’t accept drinks or food from someone
Dar es Salaam, the best base for cyclists are it can be fatal. See p647 for more. zanian parks and reserves are free for chil- you don’t know, and be sceptical of anyone
the bicycle-friendly Pugu Hills, but there are dren under five years of age, and entry and who comes up to you on the street asking
no rentals here, so you’ll need to bring your Horse Riding camping fees are discounted for those under you whether you remember them from the
own bike. Alternatively, contact Afri-Roots In northern Tanzania, good contacts include 16 years of age. Children under seven years airport, your hotel or wherever.
(p118), which organises local cycling trips. Makoa Safaris (p171), near Moshi, and Eques- of age aren’t permitted in Gombe Stream or In tourist areas – especially Arusha, Moshi
trian Safaris (www.safaririding.com), based outside Mahale Mountains National Parks. Hotel ac- and Zanzibar – touts and flycatchers can be
Diving & Snorkelling Arusha, which organises rides in west Kili- commodation is usually discounted for those extremely aggressive, especially around bus
The best diving is around the Zanzibar Ar- manjaro, in the Crater Highlands and around under 12 and free for those under two years stations and budget tourist hotels. Try to do
chipelago (p138) and around Mafia Island. Lake Natron. old; extra children’s beds added to double everything you can to minimise the impres-
There’s also diving in the largely unexplored rooms usually cost about US$10. Some wild- sion that you’re a newly arrived tourist. Duck
waters of the Mnazi Bay–Ruvuma Estuary Wildlife Watching life lodges, especially those in the national into a shop if you need to get your bearings,
Marine Park (p247) and off the beaches This is one of Tanzania’s top attractions. See parks, are restricted for children, so inquire and don’t walk around more than necessary
north of Dar es Salaam (p127). Mnemba p91 and the Wildlife special section (p57) when booking. Always make sure you ask with your luggage. While looking for a room,
Atoll (p151) is a snorkelling highlight. for more information. for children’s discounts if booking a safari leave your bag with a friend or hotel rather
TA N Z A N I A 252 TA N Z A N I A D I R E C T O R Y • • E m b a s s i e s & C o n s u l a t e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com TA N Z A N I A D I R E C T O R Y • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s 253
TA N Z A N I A
than walking around town with it. Buy your in Belgium (Brussels), China (Beijing), DR Netherlands (Map p118; %211 0000; www.netherlands Major Islamic holidays are also celebrated as
bus tickets a day in advance (without your Congo (Kinshasa), Egypt (Cairo), Ethiopia -embassy.go.tz; cnr Mirambo St & Garden Ave) public holidays; see p624.
luggage), and when arriving in a new city, (Addis Ababa), India (New Delhi), Nigeria Rwanda (Map p116; %211 5889; 32 Ali Hassan Mwinyi
take a taxi from the bus station to your hotel. (Lagos), Sweden (Stockholm), Switzerland Rd, Upanga; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) One-month single- INTERNET RESOURCES
Be very wary of anyone who approaches you (Geneva) and Zimbabwe (Harare). There’s entry visas cost US$45 plus two photos, and are ready There’s lots of information on Tanzania to be
on the street, at the bus station or in your no Tanzanian high commission in Malawi. within three days. found on the Web. Following are a few sites
hotel offering safari deals, and never pay any Uganda (Map p116; %266 7009; 25 Msasani Rd; to get you started:
money for a safari or trek in advance until Embassies, Consulates & High h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Near Oyster Bay Primary Government of Tanzania (www.tanzania.go.tz) The
you’ve thoroughly checked out the company. Commissions in Tanzania School. Three-month single-entry visas cost US$30 plus two government site – dry, but with visa info.
In western Tanzania, along the Burundi bor- Australians can contact the Canadian em- photos and are issued the same day. Tanzania News (www.tanzanianews.com) News
der, there are sporadic outbursts of banditry bassy. Except as noted, most are open from UK (Map p118; %211 0101; [email protected]; cnr clippings.
and political unrest. Get an update from your around 8am to at least 3pm, often with a Mirambo St & Garden Ave) Tanzania Page (www.sas.upenn.edu/African_Studies
embassy if you plan on travelling there. Also midday break. Visa information is given for USA (Map p116; %266 8001; http://usembassy.state /Country_Specific/Tanzania.html) Good links.
see p120 and p622. Tanzania’s neighbours; applications for all .gov/tanzania; cnr Old Bagamoyo & Rashidi Kawawa Rds) Tanzania Tourist Board (www.tanzaniatouristboard
should be made in the morning. Diplomatic Zambia (Map p118; %212 5529; Zambia House, cnr .com) TTB’s official site.
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES representations in Dar es Salaam (area code Ohio St & Sokoine Dr; hvisa applications 9-11am, visa Zanzibar Tourism (www.zanzibartourism.net) The
Tanzanian Embassies & Consulates %022) include the following: pick-ups 2-3pm, Mon-Fri) Three-month single-entry visas Zanzibar Commission for Tourism’s official site.
Australia Sydney (%02-9261 0911; www.tanzania Belgium (Map p116; %211 4025, 211 2503; cost TSh25,000 to TSh43,000 depending on nationality,
consul.com; Level 3, 185 Liverpool St, Sydney, NSW 2000); [email protected]; 5 Ocean Rd, Upanga) and require two photos. They’re processed the same day. MAPS
Perth (%08-9322 6222; [email protected]; Level 25, Burundi (Map p116; Lugalo St, Upanga; h8am-5pm Good country maps include those published
QV1 Building, 250 St George’s Terrace, Perth WA 6000) The Mon-Fri) One-month single-entry visas cost US$45 plus FESTIVALS & EVENTS by Nelles (1:1,500,000) and Harms-ic, both
Sydney office is for NSW, VIC, ACT and Tasmania; the Perth two photos and are issued within 24 hours. Burundi also Sauti za Busara (%024-223 2423; [email protected]) available in Tanzania. Harms-ic also pub-
office for Perth, SA, NT and QLD. has a consulate in Kigoma (p214). A three-day music and dance festival centred around all lishes maps for Lake Manyara National Park
Canada Ottawa (%0613-232 1500; tzottawa@synapse Canada (Map p118; %211 2831; www.dfait-maeci.gc things Swahili; held in February on Zanzibar. and the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.
.net; 50 Range Rd, Ottawa, Ontario KIN 8J4) .ca/tanzania/menu-en.asp; 38 Mirambo St) Kilimanjaro Marathon (www.kilimanjaromarathon An excellent series of colourful maps,
France Paris (%01 53 70 63 70, 01 47 55 05 46; tanzanie@ DR Congo (Map p116; Maliki Rd, Upanga; h8.30am- .com) Something to do in the foothills around Moshi, just hand-drawn by a man named Giovanni Tom-
infonie.fr; 13 Ave Raymond Poincare, 75116 Paris) 3pm Mon-Fri) One-month single-entry visas cost US$50, in case climbing to Kilimanjaro’s summit isn’t enough. Held bazzi and marketed under the name MaCo,
Germany Berlin (%030-303 08 00; www.tanzania-gov require two photos, and are available within three days. in February or March. cover Zanzibar, Arusha and many northern
.de; Eschenallee 11, 14050 Berlin-Charlottenburg) You’ll need a letter from an employer, tour operator or Festival of the Dhow Countries (www.ziff.or.tz) A Tanzania parks. They’re widely available in
Italy Rome (%06-334 85 801; www.tanzania-gov.it; embassy explaining your purpose. The consulate in Kigoma two-week extravaganza of dance, music, film and literature Dar es Salaam, Arusha and Zanzibar Town.
Viale Cortina d’Ampezzo 185, Rome) (p214) issues visas within 24 hours, and without a letter, from Tanzania and other Indian Ocean countries; held in
Japan Tokyo (%03-425 4531; [email protected]; 21-9, but with lots of questions. early July. MONEY
Kamiyoga 4, Chome Setagaya-Ku, Tokyo 158) France (Map p116; %266 6021; www.ambafrance-tz ZIFF This film festival is the centrepiece of the Festival of The currency in Tanzania is the Tanzanian
Kenya Mombasa ([email protected]; Palli .org; Ali Hassan Mwinyi Rd) the Dhow Countries; held in early July. shilling (TSh). There are bills of TSh10,000,
House, Nyerere Ave); Nairobi (%02-331056, 02-331104; Germany (Map p118; %211 7409-15; www.german Mwaka Kogwa A four-day festival held in late July to TSh5000, TSh1000 and TSh500, and coins
[email protected]; Reinsurance Plaza, 9th -embassy-daressalam.de; cnr Mirambo St & Garden Ave) mark Nairuzim (the Shirazi New Year); festivities are best in of TSh200, TSh100, TSh50, TSh20, TSh10,
fl, between Tarifa Rd & Aga Khan Walk, Nairobi) India (Map p116; %266 9040/2; www.hcindiatz.org; 82 Makunduchi, in Zanzibar’s southeastern corner. TSh5 and TSh1. For exchange rates, see
Mozambique Maputo (%01-490110; Ujamaa House, Kinondoni Rd, Masaki) Bagamoyo Arts Festival (www.college-of-arts.org p103. For more information on costs, see
852 Ave Mártires de Machava, Maputo) Ireland (Map p116; %260 2355/6, 266 6211; iremb@ /index_festival.html) A week of traditional music, dance, p17.
Netherlands (%0180-32 09 39; Parallelweg Zuid 215, raha.com; 1131 Msasani Rd) Just off Haile Selassie Rd, near acrobatics, poetry reading and more, featuring local and The best currency to bring is US dollars in
2914 LE Nieuwerkerk aan den Ijssel) the International School. regional ensembles; held in late September. a mixture of large and small denominations,
Rwanda Kigali ([email protected]; 15 Italy (Map p116; %211 5935; www.italdipldar.org; 316 plus some travellers cheques as emergency
Avenue Paul VI, Kigali) Lugalo Rd, Upanga) HOLIDAYS stand-by and a Visa card for withdrawing
South Africa Pretoria (%012-342 4393; tanzania@cis Kenya (Map p116; %270 1747; 14 Ursino, cnr Rashidi New Year’s Day 1 January money from ATMs.
.co.za; PO Box 56572, Arcadia 0007, Pretoria) Kawawa & Old Bagamoyo Rds; h8am-2.30pm Mon-Fri) Zanzibar Revolution Day 12 January Travel in Tanzania is expensive, espe-
Uganda Kampala (%41-256292, 41-256272; tzrepkla@ One-month single-entry visas cost TSh50,000 (no photos Easter (Good Friday, Holy Saturday and Easter Monday) cially if you’re doing an organised safari.
imul.com; 6 Kagera Rd, Kampala) required), and are issued within 24 hours. March/April While travelling on a modest or even a
United Kingdom London (%020-7499 8951; www Malawi (Map p118; %0748-481740; 1st fl, Zambia Union Day 26 April shoestring budget is quite possible, it will
.tanzania-online.gov.uk; 43 Hertford St, London W1Y 8DB) House, cnr Ohio St & Sokoine Dr; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri) Labour Day 1 May take some work, and you’ll need to rough
USA New York (%212-972 9160; 205 East 42nd St, New Many nationalities, including the USA and UK, don’t require Saba Saba (Peasants’ Day) 7 July things. Whatever your budget, there are few
York, NY); Washington, DC (%202-939 6125; www visas. For those that do, one-month single-entry visas cost Nane Nane (Farmers’ Day) 8 August real deals – comforts abound, but you’ll
.tanzaniaembassy-us.org; 2139 R St, NW, Washington DC) US$70 plus two photos and are issued within 24 hours. Nyerere Day 14 October need to pay. For some tips on cutting costs,
Zambia Lusaka (%01-253320, 01-227698; tzreplsk@ Mozambique (Map p118; %211 6502; 25 Garden Ave; Independence Day 9 December see p17.
zamnet.zm; Ujamaa House, 5200 United Nations Ave, Lusaka) h8am-3pm Mon-Fri) One-month single-entry visas cost Christmas Day 25 December Tanzania has a 20% value-added tax (VAT)
Tanzania also has diplomatic representation US$40/35 for same-day/two-day service, plus two photos. Boxing Day 26 December that’s usually included in quoted prices.
TA N Z A N I A 254 TA N Z A N I A D I R E C T O R Y • • P h o t o g r a p h y & V i d e o www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N TA N Z A N I A • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 255
TA N Z A N I A
ATMs mon practice to tip drivers, guides, porters TSh500 per minute. There are card phones infected area (which includes Kenya, al-
National Bank of Commerce (NBC) has and other staff if the service has been good. in major towns (buy cards during business though arrivals aren’t always checked). It’s
ATMs that accept Visa at most of their For guidelines on amounts see p84 (for sa- hours at Tanzania Telecom or at shops near also a requirement in some neighbouring
branches (found in major towns country- faris) and p176 and p190 (for treks). the phones), but for international calls, even countries, including Rwanda, and thus is a
wide). Standard Chartered (with branches with the most expensive card (TSh7500, 150 good idea to carry. For more, see p646.
in Dar es Salaam, Arusha, Moshi and Travellers Cheques units), you’ll only get a few minutes to talk.
Mwanza), Barclays (Dar and Arusha) and Travellers cheques can be changed in Dar For the occasional one- or two-digit num- VISAS
CRDB (in major towns) also have ATMs es Salaam, Arusha, Zanzibar, Mwanza and bers still remaining, you’ll need to place your Almost everyone needs a visa. A single-
that allow you to withdraw shillings with a other major centres – but not elsewhere in call through the operator (%900). entry visa valid for up to three months costs
Visa card to a maximum of TSh400,000 per the country – at slightly lower rates than for between US$20 and US$50, depending on
day. A few ATMs also accept MasterCard. cash. As with changing cash, forex bureaus Mobile Phones nationality. It’s best to get the visa in ad-
All are open 24 hours in theory, though in are usually much quicker and less bureau- The rapidly expanding mobile network cov- vance (and necessary if you want multi-
practice they’re often out of service. cratic than banks. Wherever you change, ers major towns in the country, plus a wide ple entry), though they’re currently readily
you’ll almost always be required to show arc encompassing the north and northeast. issued at Dar es Salaam and Kilimanjaro
Cash your original purchase receipt before chang- In the south, west and centre, you often airports and at most border crossings (all
Cash can be changed with a minimum of ing the cheques. Most banks (but not forex won’t get a signal once you’re away from the nationalities US$50, US dollars cash only,
hassle at banks and foreign exchange (forex) bureaus) also charge commissions ranging larger towns. Mobile phone numbers are six single-entry only). Some embassies require
bureaus in all larger towns; rates and com- from 0.5% of the transaction amount (at digits, preceded by (0)741 (Mobitel), (0)744 you to show proof of an onward ticket
missions vary, so it pays to shop around. NBC) to more than US$40 per transac- and (0)745 (Vodacom), (0)748 and (0)787 before they’ll issue a visa, though a flight
Forex bureaus are usually quicker, less bur- tion. Most hotels refuse to accept travellers (Celtel), or (on Zanzibar) (0)747. To reach a itinerary will usually suffice. For exten-
eaucratic and offer higher rates, although cheques as direct payment. mobile telephone number from outside Tan- sions (free) within the usual three-month
many smaller towns don’t have them. The zania, dial the country code, then the mobile visa limit, there are immigration offices in
most useful bank for changing money is PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO phone code without the initial 0, and then all major towns. After three months, you’ll
NBC, which has branches throughout the Print film, including Kodak and Fuji, is sold the six-digit number. From within, keep the usually need to leave the country and reap-
country. Note that US$50 and US$100 bills in major towns and tourist areas (from about initial 0 and don’t use an area code. ply for a new visa. For visas to neighbouring
get better rates of exchange than smaller TSh3500 for a roll of 100ASA/36 exposures). All the companies sell prepaid starter countries, see p252.
denominations. Old-style US bills are not Slide film (Kodak and Fuji, 100ASA) is avail- packages, and top-up cards are on sale at
accepted anywhere. Euros, British pounds
and other major currencies are accepted in
able in Dar es Salaam (about TSh9000 for 36
exposures), Zanzibar and other tourist areas.
shops throughout the country.
TRANSPORT IN
tourist areas and major towns.
In order to reconvert Tanzanian shillings
to hard currency at the end of your trip,
Speeds above 200ASA are difficult to find.
CD-burning of digital images is possible at
a handful of Internet cafés in major towns.
Phone Codes
Tanzania’s country code is %255. To make
an international call, dial %000, followed
TANZANIA
save at least some of your exchange receipts, Region-wide restrictions on photograph- by the country code, local area code (with- GETTING THERE & AWAY
though they are seldom checked. The easiest ing anything connected with the government out the initial ‘0’) and telephone number. For information on getting to East Africa
places to reconvert currency are at the air- or military (see p627) are taken seriously, so Most telephone numbers are seven digits, from outside the region, see p631.
ports in Dar es Salaam and Kilimanjaro. if in doubt, don’t take your camera out. although there are still a few four- and five-
In theory, it’s required for foreigners to digit numbers around. Area codes (given Entering Tanzania
pay for accommodation, park fees, organ- POST at the start of town entries) must be used Tanzania is straightforward to enter, whether
ised tours, upscale hotels and the Zanzibar Airmail postage to the USA/Australia/Eu- whenever you dial long distance. at the airports or at overland borders. Visas
ferries in dollars, though shillings are almost rope costs from TSh600/800/500 and is rea- are available at all major points of entry (see
always accepted at the going rate. sonably reliable for letters. Package delivery TOURIST INFORMATION p629), and must be paid for in US dollars
is unreliable, so don’t send any valuables. The Tanzania Tourist Board (TTB; www.tanzania cash. You’ll need proof of yellow-fever vac-
Credit Cards There’s poste restante service in all major -web.com) has offices in Dar es Salaam (p117) cination only if you’re coming from a yellow-
Some top-end hotels, tour operators and a towns, with a charge of TSh200 per received and Arusha (p181). In the UK, the Tanzania fever infected area (including Kenya), though
few midrange establishments accept credit letter. Mail is held for at least one month. Tourist Board is represented by the Tanzania it often isn’t checked.
cards – most with a 5% to 10% commission – Trade Centre (%0207-407 0566; director@tanzatrade
though their use isn’t as common as in TELEPHONE .co.uk; 80 Borough High St, London, SE1 1LL). In the Passport
Kenya, or in the West. You can make domestic (from about US$0.10 USA, the TTB representative is the Bradford As long as you have complied with visa and
You can get cash advances in dollars at per minute) and international (from US$2 Group (%212-447 0027; tanzania@bradfordmarketing entry permit requirements (see p629), there
poor rates against Visa or MasterCard in Dar per minute) calls from Tanzania Telecom .org; 347 Fifth Ave, Suite 610, New York, NY 10016). are no restrictions on any nationalities for
es Salaam, Arusha and Zanzibar Town. offices in all major towns, as well as from entering Tanzania.
private communications shops. Occasion- VACCINATION CERTIFICATES
Tipping ally you’ll find places offering much cheaper Tanzania no longer officially requires you Air
For general guidelines on tipping, see p626. Internet dialling, though it’s officially not to carry a certificate of yellow-fever vac- Tanzania’s major air hub is Dar es Salaam Inter-
On treks and safaris in Tanzania, it’s com- permitted. Calls to mobile phones cost cination unless you’re arriving from an national Airport (code DAR; %022-284 2461, 284 4371,
TA N Z A N I A 256 T R A N S P O R T I N TA N Z A N I A • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N TA N Z A N I A • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 257
TA N Z A N I A
ext 2001). Kilimanjaro International Airport (code JRO; Ethiopian Airlines (airline code ET; %022-211 7063; taxis. Most main routes go direct, but some-
BORDER HASSLES
%027-255 4252, 255 4707; www.kilimanjaroairport.co.tz), www.flyethiopian.com) Hub: Addis Ababa. Also flies to times you’ll need to walk across the border
midway between Arusha and Moshi, han- Kilimanjaro International Airport (KIA). and change vehicles on the other side. At the Namanga border post between
dles an increasing number of international Kenya Airways (airline code KQ; %022-211 9376/7; Kenya and Tanzania (en route between
flights and is the best option if you’ll be www.kenya-airways.com) Hub: Jomo Kenyatta Interna- CAR & MOTORCYCLE Nairobi and Arusha), watch out for touts –
concentrating on Arusha and the northern- tional Airport, Nairobi. Nairobi and Mombasa to Dar es If you’re arriving via car or motorcycle, often claiming they work for the bus com-
safari circuit. It shouldn’t be confused with Salaam and Zanzibar. you’ll need the vehicle’s registration papers pany – who tell you that it’s necessary to
the smaller Arusha Airport (code ARK), about 8km KLM (airline code KL; %022-213 9790/1, in Arusha and your license (p263), plus pay for a change money, to pay a fee, or to come over
west of Arusha, which handles some domes- %027-250 8062/3; www.klm.com) Hub: Schiphol Airport, temporary import permit at the border to ‘another building’ to arrange the nec-
tic flights. There are also international flights Amsterdam. Also serves Kilimanjaro International Airport. (TSh20,000 for one month), third-party in- essary payments to enter Tanzania/Kenya.
to/from Zanzibar International Airport (code ZNZ). Linhas Aéreas de Moçambique (airline code TM; surance (TSh50,000 for one year) and a one- Apart from your visa, there are no border
Mwanza Airport (code MWZ) and Mtwara Airport %022-213 4600; www.lam.co.mz) Hub: Mavalane time fuel levy (TSh5000). You’ll also need a fees, payments or exchange requirements
(code MYW) handle some regional flights. International Airport, Maputo. carnet de passage en douane; see p638. for crossing, and the rates being offered
Air Tanzania (airline code TC; %022-211 8411, 284 Oman Air (airline code OMA; %024-223 8308; www Most hire companies don’t permit their for money exchange at the border are far
4239; www.airtanzania.com) is the national airline, .oman-air.com) Hub: Seeb International Airport. Also vehicles to cross international borders; below the norm.
with its hub at Dar es Salaam International serves Zanzibar International Airport. should you find one that does, arrange the
Airport. It operates in partnership with South Rwandair Express (www.rwandair.com) Hub: Kigali. necessary paperwork with them in advance.
African Airways and is generally efficient and Kigali to Kilimanjaro International Airport. For road rules, see p638. Most border at Isebania, northeast of Musoma. With the
reliable. Regional and international routes in- South African Airways (airline code SA; %022-211 posts don’t have petrol stations or repair exception of the Serengeti–Masai Mara
clude Nairobi to Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar, 7044; www.flysaa.com) Hub: Johannesburg International shops; head to the nearest large town. crossing, there is public transport across all
and Dar es Salaam to Moroni (Comores), Airport. Tanzania–Kenya border posts.
Entebbe and Johannesburg. Credit cards are Swiss International Airlines (airline code LX; %022- TO/FROM BURUNDI
accepted at their Dar es Salaam office only. 211 8870; www.swiss.com) Hub: Kloten Airport, Zurich. The main border crossing is at Kobero Bridge Kisii
The other major commercial carrier is Yemenia Yemen Airways (airline code IY; %022-212 between Ngara and Muyinga (Burundi). Minibuses go daily between Musoma and the
Precision Air (airline code PW; %022-212 1718, 022-284 6036; www.yemenairways.net) Hub: Sana’a International Although the border is officially open, the Sirari/Isebania border post, where you can
3547, in Arusha %027-250 2818, 027-250 6903, in Zan- Airport. security situation ebbs and flows, so get an change to Kenyan transport for Kisii, and
zibar %024-223 4520; www.precisionairtz.com; hub Dar update from your embassy first. The road then on to Kisumu or Nairobi. Scandinavian
es Salaam), which, in partnership with Kenya Chimpanzee Safaris (p214) run regularly between Kigoma and Lusahunga in particu- Express and Akamba also pass Kisii on their
Airways, has flights from Nairobi to Dar scheduled charters between Kigoma (Tanza- lar is subject to occasional banditry, and it’s daily runs between Mwanza and Nairobi
es Salaam, Kilimanjaro and Zanzibar, and nia) and Kigali (Rwanda) – useful if you’re sometimes necessary to travel in a convoy. (TSh20,000 to TSh23,000, 12 to 14 hours
between Mombasa and Dar es Salaam via combining gorillas and chimpanzees. There are also border crossings at Gisuru between Mwanza and Nairobi), with some
Zanzibar, plus numerous domestic routes. (east of Ruyigi) and further south at Mugina buses continuing on to Arusha and Dar.
They are also about to start a flight between Land (near Makamba), but they are currently pri-
Kigoma and Bujumbura in partnership with BUS marily for United Nations staff and others Masai Mara
Air Burundi. Buses cross the borders between Tanzania connected with refugee repatriation. There’s no public transport between the
Other regional and international carriers and Kenya, Malawi, Uganda and Zambia. The trip is done in stages via Lusahunga, northern Serengeti and Kenya’s Masai Mara
flying to/from Tanzania include the follow- Apart from sometimes lengthy waits at the from where there are vehicles north towards Game Reserve, and only East African resi-
ing (with useful flights between Tanzania border for passport checks, there are usu- Biharamulo and Lake Victoria and southeast dents and citizens can cross here. If you’re a
and elsewhere in East Africa highighted). ally no hassles. At the border, you’ll need to via Kahama towards Nzega or Shinyanga. resident and are exiting Tanzania, you should
All airlines service Dar es Salaam, except disembark on each side to take care of visa The road from Nzega to the Burundi border take care of immigration formalities in Se-
as noted. formalities, then reboard your bus and con- via Ngara is in fairly good condition. Time ronera. Entering Tanzania from Masai Mara,
Air Burundi (airline code 8Y; [email protected];) Hub: tinue on. Visa fees are not included in bus- your travels so that if you need to overnight park fees are payable at the Lobo ranger post,
Bujumbura. Bujumbura to Kigoma (to start soon). ticket prices for trans-border routes. It’s also in Tanzania, it will be in either Biharamulo between the border and Seronera.
Air India (airline code AI; %022-215 2642; www.airindia possible to travel to/from all of Tanzania’s or Kahama, rather than in Lusahunga or
.com) Hub: Mumbai. neighbours by minibus or (for Kenya) shared other less safe points near the border. Mombasa
Air Kenya (airline code REG; %027-250 2541, in Nairobi Scandinavian Express goes daily between
%020-601727; www.airkenya.com) Hub: Nairobi. Nairobi TO/FROM KENYA Dar es Salaam and Mombasa, departing
to Kilimanjaro. DEPARTURE TAX Border Crossings mornings in each direction (TSh19,000, 10
British Airways (airline code BA; %022-211 3820, The departure tax for regional and inter- The main route to/from Kenya is the sealed hours). Buses between Tanga and Mombasa
022-284 4082; www.britishairways.com) Hub: Heathrow national flights is US$30. It’s included in road connecting Arusha and Nairobi via depart daily in the morning (TSh5000 to
Airport, London. the ticket price for departures from the the heavily travelled Namanga border post TSh10,000, four to five hours).
Egyptair (airline code MS; %022-211 0333; www mainland, but on Zanzibar is usually levied (open 24 hours). There are also border cross-
.egyptair.com.eg) Hub: Cairo International Airport. separately at the airport (payable in either ings at Horohoro, north of Tanga; at Taveta, Nairobi
Emirates Airlines (airline code EK; %022-211 6100; US dollars or Tanzanian shillings). east of Moshi; at Illassit, northeast of Moshi; Scandinavian Express goes between Dar es
www.emirates.com) Hub Dubai International Airport. at Bologonya in the northern Serengeti; and Salaam and Nairobi via Arusha, departing
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daily in each direction around 6.30am ing from Nairobi, the matatu and shared- Pick-ups depart Mtwara daily between where minibuses go to Kibungo and on to
(TSh38,000, 13 hours). Scandinavian Ex- taxi depots are on Ronald Ngala St, near the 7am and 9am for the Kilambo border post Kigali (US$5, three hours). There are also
press and Akamba bus line also have River Rd junction. (TSh3000, one hour), and on to the Rovuma, occasional direct buses between Mwanza
daily buses between Mwanza and Nairobi which is crossed via dugout canoe (TSh2000, and Kigali.
(TSh23,000 to TSh28,000 plus Kenyan visa Voi 10 minutes to over an hour, depending on
costs, 12 to 14 hours). Minibuses go daily between Moshi and Voi, water levels; dangerous during heavy rains). TO/FROM UGANDA
Between Arusha or Moshi and Nairobi, or the trip can be done in stages via Taveta On the Mozambique side, there are usu- The main post is at Mutukula, northwest of
the most popular option is one of the daily on the border. There are also occasional di- ally two pick-ups daily to the Mozambique Bukoba (although you actually get stamped
shuttle buses, which depart at 8am and 2pm rect buses between Moshi and Mombasa via border post (about 4km further) and on in and out of Tanzania at Kyaka, about 30km
in each direction (five hours). Main compa- Voi, although most reach Mombasa in the to Moçimboa da Praia (US$7, four hours), south of the Mutukula border), with good
nies include the following: middle of the night. with the last one departing by about noon. Tarmac access routes on both sides. There’s
Davanu Arusha (%0744-400318, 0744-846160; Hotel If you get stuck at the Rovuma, there’s a another crossing further west at Nkurungu,
Pallsons, Bondeni St, Arusha); Nairobi (%254-20-222002, TO/FROM MALAWI bedbug-ridden guesthouse on a sandbank but the road is bad and sparsely travelled.
254-20-217178; [email protected]; 4th fl, Windsor House, The only border crossing is at Songwe River in the middle of the river; camping on the Scandinavian goes daily between Dar es
University Way, with a desk at the New Stanley Hotel) bridge (h7.30am-6pm Tanzanian time, 6.30am to 5pm Mozambique side is a better option. Salaam and Kampala via Nairobi (TSh50,000,
Impala Arusha (%027-250 7197; [email protected] Malawi time), southeast of Mbeya. The Rovuma crossing is notorious for 27 hours) and Arusha, departing Dar in the
.tz; Impala Hotel, cnr Moshi & Old Moshi Rds, Arusha); Buses go three times weekly between Dar pickpockets. Keep an eye on your belong- morning, and Kampala at midday. Jaguar/
Nairobi (%254-20-2717373; Silver Springs Hotel) es Salaam and Lilongwe, departing Dar es ings, especially when getting into and out of Dolphin (the best connection) and Tawfiq go
Riverside Arusha (%027-250 2639, 027-250 3916; Salaam about 5am (TSh47,000, 27 hours). the boats, and keep up with the crowd when daily between Bukoba and Kampala, depart-
[email protected]; Sokoine Rd, Arusha, with It’s better to take Scandinavian from Dar to walking to/from the riverbank. ing Bukoba about 7am (TSh11,000, five to six
a branch at Mt Meru Hotel); Nairobi (%254-20-229618; Mbeya, and get onward transport there. From If you’re travelling this route by private hours). Departures from Kampala are at 7am
Room 1, 3rd fl, Pan African Insurance House, Kenyatta Ave) Mbeya, buses depart several times weekly in vehicle, there’s a vehicle ferry at Kilambo and about 1.30pm. From Kampala, Tawfiq
the afternoon, arriving in Lilongwe the next that operates at high tide (TSh500/20,000 continues on to Nairobi and Dar (TSh40,000)
All charge US$25 one way, and with a little day (TSh29,000). There are also daily mini- per person/large vehicle), though the cap- plus transit visas for Uganda (US$15) and
prodding, you can sometimes get the resi- buses connecting both Mbeya and Kyela with tain has been known to skip off and leave Kenya (US$20, 36 hours), though if you’re
dents’ price (US$10). In Arusha, all compa- the border; once at the border, there’s about a vehicles waiting for several days. Get an up- headed to Nairobi it’s better to sleep in Kam-
nies drop you at Mt Meru Hotel, as well as 300m walk to the Malawian side, from where date first at the Old Boma (p247) or Ten De- pala and get another bus the next day as the
at their offices. In Nairobi, drop-offs are at there are minibuses to Karonga. There’s also grees South (p247), or at Russell’s Place (Cashew Tawfiq bus arrives late at night.
centrally located hotels and at Jomo Keny- at least one bus daily between the border Camp; in Mozambique %082-686273; russellbott@yahoo From Mwanza, Akamba goes four times
atta International Airport. When flying into and Mzuzu, departing the border by mid- .com) in Pemba (Mozambique). weekly to/from Kampala (TSh20,000, 19
Nairobi, shuttle representatives will meet afternoon and arriving by evening. Many The border crossing south of Newala is hours).
your flight if you’ve booked in advance. vehicles and trucks ply between Mbeya and rarely used and entails long walks on both
Otherwise contact the shuttles through the Karonga, so it’s easy to find a lift. sides (up to 25km in Tanzania, and at least TO/FROM ZAMBIA
tourist information desk in the international Coming from Malawi, the best option is 10km in Mozambique). The main Mozam- The main border crossing is at Tunduma
arrivals area. Confirm the drop-off point to take a minibus from the border to Mbeya, bique town is Moçimboa do Rovuma, from (h7.30am-6pm Tanzania time, 6.30am-5pm Zambia time),
when booking, and insist on being dropped and then get an express bus onwards from where there’s a daily vehicle to Mueda. southwest of Mbeya. There’s also a cross-
off as agreed. Also watch out for touts who there towards Dar es Salaam. This means Further west, you can make your way from ing at Kasesha, between Sumbawanga and
may board the bus at the New Stanley Hotel overnighting in Mbeya, as buses to Dar es Sa- Songea to the Rovuma via sporadic public Mbala (Zambia).
(Nairobi) and insist that it’s the end of the laam depart Mbeya between 6am and 7am. transport and on foot. Once in Mozam- Scandinavian goes daily between Dar es
line to drum up business for waiting taxis. bique, there’s a truck every other day from Salaam and Lusaka via Mbeya, departing at
Regular buses also link Arusha and Nai- TO/FROM MOZAMBIQUE the Rovuma to Lichinga via Nova Madeira dawn from Dar es Salaam and in the eve-
robi daily (TSh9000, six to seven hours), There are no bridges over the Ruvuma River and Macaloge. nings from Lusaka (TSh60,000, 24 hours).
departing between 6.30am and 8am, and (the border). The main crossing is at Kil- Otherwise, minibuses go frequently between
sometimes also in the afternoon about 2pm. ambo (south of Mtwara), where there is a TO/FROM RWANDA Mbeya and Tunduma (TSh2500, two hours),
Departures in Arusha are from the bus sta- sometimes-operational ferry. It’s also pos- The main border crossing is at Rusumu Falls, where you walk across the border for Zam-
tion; in Nairobi most are from Accra Rd. sible to get your passport stamped on the southwest of Bukoba. There have been no bian transport to Lusaka (US$20, 18 hours).
Shared taxis go between the Arusha bus crossing between Newala and Moçimboa problems recently, but due to a long history The Tanzania–Zambia (Tazara) train line
station and the Namanga border (TSh2500) do Rovuma (Mozambique). If you travel by of instability in this region, it’s worth getting links Dar es Salaam with Kapiri Mposhi
throughout the day, beginning about 6am. boat, there are border officials at Msimbati an update from your embassy or resident in Zambia (TSh55,000/39,100/31,500 in
Most are nine-seater sedans that do the (Tanzania), and at Palma and Moçimboa expatriates before setting off. 1st/2nd/economy class, about 40 hours)
journey at hair-raising speeds. At Namanga, da Praia (Mozambique). It’s also reportedly Daily pick-ups go between Benako (30km twice weekly via Mbeya and Tunduma.
you’ll have to walk a few hundred metres possible to get stamped in at the crossing southwest of the border) and Rusumu Falls From Kapiri Mposhi to Lusaka, you’ll need
across the border, and then catch one of between Songea and Nova Madeira (Mozam- border post; see p205 for connections to to continue by bus. Tazara also has one
the frequent matatus (Kenyan minivans) or bique); otherwise, there’s an immigration Benako. At the border, walk across the slower ‘ordinary’ train weekly between Dar
shared taxis to Nairobi (about US$5). Com- office in Songea. bridge to the Rwandan border post, from es Salaam and Mbeya (p265) and between
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Kapiri Mposhi and Nakonde (on the Zam- to five hours). The schedule is highly variable are Friday afternoon. Food is available on ZanAir (%024-223 3670/8; www.zanair.com) Arusha,
bian side of the Zambia–Tanzania border, and sometimes cancelled completely. board, but it’s best to bring some supple- Dar es Salaam, Lake Manyara National Park, Mafia, Pemba,
about 20 hours). ments and drinking water. First class is Selous Game Reserve, Serengeti National Park, Tarangire-
TO/FROM MOZAMBIQUE relatively comfortable, with two reasonably National Park, Zanzibar.
Sea & Lake Dhow clean bunks and a window. Second-class
There’s a US$5 port tax for all boats and Dhows between Mozambique and Tanzania cabins (four bunks) and economy-class Bicycle
ferries from Tanzanian ports. (12 to 30 hours) are best arranged at Msim- seating are both poorly ventilated and un- As distances are long, often with little vari-
bati or Moçimboa da Praia (Mozambique). comfortable – better to find deck space than ation in topography in between, the most
TO/FROM BURUNDI economy-class seating. Keep watch over satisfactory cycling is often from a fixed
Ferry Ferry your luggage, and book early if you want base (eg the western Usambaras around
The regular passenger-ferry service between The official route between southwestern a cabin; Monday morning seems to be the Lushoto, or anywhere on Pemba). See p636
Kigoma and Bujumbura is suspended. Previ- Tanzania and Mozambique is via Malawi best time. for general information.
ously there had been a weekly overnight serv- on the Songea ferry between Mbamba Bay There are docks at Kigoma and Kasanga, In theory, bicycles can be transported on
ice on the MV Mwongozo (US$30/25/20 in and Nkhata Bay (see the preceding Ma- but at many smaller stops you’ll need to minibuses and buses, though many drivers
1st/2nd/economy class, payment in US dol- lawi section), and then from Nkhata Bay disembark in the middle of the lake into are unwilling. For express buses, you’ll need
lars cash only, 11 hours), which may resume on to Likoma Island (Malawi), Cóbuè and small boats that take you to shore – a bit of to make advance arrangements to stow your
as the political situation stabilises. Inquire at Metangula (both in Mozambique) on the an adventure (or nerve-racking, depending bike in the hold.
the port in Kigoma for an update. Ilala ferry (in Malawi %01-587311; ilala@malawi on your perspective) at night, if the lake is
.net). Unofficially, there are small boats that rough or you have a heavy pack. Boat
Lake Taxi sail along the eastern shore of Lake Nyasa DHOW
Security situation permitting, you can take between Tanzania and Mozambique. How- Tours Main routes include those connecting Zan-
a lake taxi from Kibirizi (just north of Kig- ever, Lake Nyasa is notorious for its severe Dozens of tour and safari companies or- zibar and Pemba with Dar es Salaam, Tanga,
oma, p216) to just south of the Burundi bor- and sudden squalls, and doing the journey ganise package tours to Tanzania. While it’s Bagamoyo and Mombasa; those connecting
der. Once there, walk a few kilometres to the this way is risky. generally cheaper to organise your tour with Kilwa Kivinje, Lindi, Mikindani and Mtwara
border, from where there are minibuses to a Tanzania-based company, this may be out- with other coastal towns; and between Mafia
Nyanza Lac and Bujumbura. TO/FROM UGANDA weighed by the convenience of organising and the mainland. Foreigners are officially
There’s no passenger-ferry service, but it’s things in advance with a company at home. prohibited on nonmotorised dhows, and on
TO/FROM DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF THE relatively easy to arrange passage between For tour operators covering Tanzania and any dhows between Zanzibar and Dar es
CONGO Mwanza and Kampala’s Port Bell on cargo elsewhere in East Africa, see p635. For safari Salaam; captains are subject to heavy fines
There’s currently no passenger service to/ ships (about 16 hours). On the Ugandan and trekking operators, see p92. if they’re caught, and may be unwilling to
from DR Congo. side, you’ll need a letter of permission from take you. See also p637.
the railway-station director (free). Ask for GETTING AROUND
TO/FROM KENYA the managing director’s office, on the 2nd Air FERRY
Dhow floor of the building next to Kampala’s The national airline, Air Tanzania (Map p118; Ferries operate on Lake Victoria, Lake Tan-
Dhows sail sporadically between Pemba, railway station. In Mwanza, a letter isn’t Dar es Salaam %022-211 8411, 022-284 4293; www.air ganyika and Lake Nyasa, and between Dar es
Tanga and Mombasa; the journey can be required, but you’ll need to check in with tanzania.com) has reliable flights connecting Salaam, Zanzibar and Pemba. There’s a US$5
long and rough. Ask at the ports in Tanga, the immigration officer at the South Port. Dar es Salaam with Mwanza, Zanzibar, Kili- port tax per trip on all routes. For details of
or in Mkoani or Wete on Pemba for infor- Expect to pay about US$20, including port manjaro and Mtwara. Other airlines flying ferries between Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar and
mation on sailings. In Kenya, ask at the port fees. Crew are often willing to rent out their domestically include the following (all also Pemba, see p125, p154 and p157.
in Mombasa, or at Shimoni. cabins for a negotiable extra fee. do charters).
Air Excel (%027-254 8429, 027-250 1597; reservations@ Lake Nyasa
Ferry TO/FROM ZAMBIA airexcelonline.com) Arusha, Serengeti, Lake Manyara, Dar In theory, the MV Songea departs Itungi
There’s no passenger ferry service on Lake Ferry es Salaam, Zanzibar. Port about 1pm on Thursday and makes its
Victoria between Tanzania and Kenya. Oc- The venerable MV Liemba, which has been Coastal Aviation (%022-284 3293, 022-284 2877, way down the coast via Lupingu, Manda,
casional cargo boats depart Mwanza for plying the waters of Lake Tanganyika for the 022-211 7959; www.coastal.cc) Arusha, Dar es Salaam, Mango and Liuli (but not via Matema) to
Kenya that are sometimes willing to take better part of a century, connects Kigoma Kilwa Masoko, Lake Manyara National Park, Mafia, Mwanza, Mbamba Bay (TSh14,000/8000 in 1st/econ-
passengers. Inquire at the Mwanza South with Mpulungu in Zambia weekly (US$55/ Pemba, Ruaha National Park, Rubondo Island National Park, omy class, 18 to 24 hours). It then continues
Port about sailings. 45/40 in 1st/2nd/economy class, US dollars Saadani Game Reserve, Selous Game Reserve, Serengeti across to Nkhata Bay in Malawi, before turn-
cash only; at least 40 hours). Stops en route National Park, Tanga, Tarangire National Park, Zanzibar. ing around and doing the return trip. This
TO/FROM MALAWI include Lagosa (for Mahale Mountains Na- Precision Air (%022-212 1718, 022-213 0800, 027-250
Ferry tional Park), Kalema (southwest of Mpanda) 2818; www.precisionairtz.com) Arusha, Bukoba, Dar es
The MV Songea sails between Mbamba and Kasanga (southwest of Sumbawanga). Salaam, Kigoma, Mwanza, Shinyanga, Tabora, Zanzibar. DOMESTIC DEPARTURE TAX
Bay and Nkhata Bay (Malawi), departing Departures from Kigoma are on Wednes- Regional Air Services (%027-250 4477, 027-250 2541; Airport departure tax for domestic flights
Mbamba Bay on Friday, and Nkhata Bay on day afternoon, reaching Mpulungu Fri- www.airkenya.com/docs/regair3.htm) Arusha, Kilimanjaro, is TSh5000.
Saturday (US$10/4 in 1st/economy class, four day morning. Departures from Mpulungu Lake Manyara National Park, Serengeti National Park.
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schedule is highly unreliable and frequently Bus (‘Coasters’ or thelathini), and daladalas. pair stations are readily available in major
interrupted. Major long-distance routes have a choice of Both options come complete with chick- towns, but scarce elsewhere, so tank up
The smaller MV Iringa services lakeside express and ordinary buses. Express buses ens on the roof, bags of produce wedged whenever you can and carry basic spares.
villages between Itungi and Manda (about make fewer stops, are less crowded than or- under the seats, and no leg room. Shared For travel in remote areas and in national
halfway down the Tanzanian lakeshore), dinary buses and depart on schedule. Some taxis are relatively rare, except in northern parks, carry jerry cans with extra fuel.
departing Itungi about midday on Tues- have air-con and toilets, and the nicest ones Tanzania near Arusha. Like ordinary buses,
day and stopping at Matema, Lupingu and are called ‘luxury’ buses. On secondary routes, minibuses and shared taxis leave when full; HIRE
several other ports en route before turning the only option is ordinary buses, which are they’re probably the least safe of the various Dar es Salaam has a modest array of car-hire
back again on Wednesday for the return trip. often packed to overflowing, make many transport options. agencies. Daily rates for 2WD start about at
Schedules are very fluid and change often; stops and run to a less rigorous schedule. US$40 excluding fuel, plus US$20 to US$30
the best places to get an update for both the For popular routes, book your seat in Car & Motorcycle for insurance and tax. Prices for 4WD range
Iringa and the Songea are with bus drivers advance, although you can sometimes get Unless you have your own vehicle and are from US$70 to US$150 per day plus insur-
along the Kyela route, or at one of the hotels a place by arriving at the bus station an familiar with driving in East Africa, it’s rela- ance (US$30 to US$40 per day), fuel and
in Matema (p234). hour prior to departure. Scandinavian and tively unusual for travellers to tour mainland driver (US$15 to US$35 per day). There’s
Royal Coach fill up quickly on all routes, Tanzania by car. More common is to focus also a 20% VAT.
Lake Tanganyika and should be booked at least one day in on one part of the country, and then arrange For anything outside the city, most com-
For the MV Liemba schedule between Kig- advance. Each bus line has its own booking local transport through a tour or safari op- panies require 4WD. Also, most don’t per-
oma and Mpulungu (Zambia), see p260. See office, usually at or near the bus station. erator. On Zanzibar it’s easy and economi- mit self-drive outside of Dar es Salaam, and
p260 for information on connections be- Most express buses have a compartment cal to hire a car or motorcycle for touring. none presently offer unlimited kilometres.
tween Kigoma and Bujumbura (Burundi). underneath for luggage. Otherwise, stow For information about bringing your own Per kilometre charges average US$0.50 to
your pack under your seat or in the front vehicle, see p638. US$1. Clarify what the company’s policy is
Lake Victoria of the bus, where there’s usually space near in the event of a breakdown.
The MV Victoria departs Mwanza for Bu- the driver. DRIVING LICENCE Avis (Map p118; %022-211 5381; Skylink Travel & Tours,
koba at 10pm on Tuesday, Thursday and Prices are basically fixed, although over- On the mainland, you’ll need your home Ohio St, Dar es Salaam; [email protected]) Oppo-
Sunday (TSh16,500/14,500/11,300/10,600 in charging isn’t unheard of. Most bus stations driving licence or (preferably) an inter- site Mövenpick Royal Palm Hotel, with a branch in Arusha.
1st class/2nd-class sleeping/2nd-class sitting/ are chaotic, and at the ones in tourist areas national driving licence. On Zanzibar, you’ll Evergreen Car Rentals (Map p116; %022-218 2107,
3rd class plus port tax, nine hours). De- you’ll be incessantly hounded by touts. Buy need an international driving licence, or a 022-218 5419; [email protected]; cnr Nkrumah St &
partures from Bukoba are at 9.30pm Mon- your tickets at the office, and not from the licence from Zanzibar (see p143), Kenya, Nyerere Rd, Dar es Salaam)
day, Wednesday and Friday. First-class has touts, and don’t believe anyone who tries to Uganda or South Africa. Hertz (Map p118; %022-212 2130, 022-212 2363;
two-bed cabins, and 2nd-class sleeping has tell you there’s a luggage fee. [email protected]; Mövenpick Royal Palm Hotel, Ohio St,
six-bed cabins. Second-class sitting is un- For short stretches along main routes, ex- FUEL & SPARE PARTS Dar es Salaam)
comfortable, so if you can’t get a spot in press buses will drop you off, though you’ll Petrol costs about TSh1040 per litre (about Elsewhere in Tanzania, you can hire 4WD
1st-class or 2nd-class sleeping, the best bet is often be required to pay the full fare to the TSh850 per litre for diesel). Filling and re- vehicles in Arusha, Mwanza and Zanzibar
to buy a 3rd-class ticket. With luck, you may next major destination.
then be able to find a comfortable spot in the Major bus companies and a sampling of
1st-class lounge. First- and 2nd-class cabins their destinations: PERILS OF THE ROAD
fill up quickly in both directions, so book as Dar Express Arusha, Dar es Salaam. Road accidents are probably your biggest safety risk while travelling in Tanzania, with speeding
soon as you know your plans. Food is avail- Royal Coach Arusha, Dar es Salaam. buses being among the worst offenders. Road conditions are poor and driving standards leave
able on board. A smaller, faster speedboat is Scandinavian Express (www.scandinaviagroup.com) a lot to be desired. Overtaking blind is a big problem, as are high speeds. Your bus driver may
expected to begin service imminently, which Arusha, Dar es Salaam, Dodoma, Iringa, Kampala (Uganda), in fact be at the wheel of an ageing, rickety vehicle with a cracked windshield and marginal
will at least halve the transit time. Kyela, Mbeya, Mombasa (Kenya), Morogoro, Nairobi brakes on a winding, potholed road. However, he’ll invariably be driving as if he were piloting
The MV Butiama sails between Mwanza (Kenya), Njombe, Songea. a sleek racing machine on a straight road – nerve-racking to say the least. Impassioned pleas
and Nkome (northwest of Geita, TSh6100/ from passengers to slow down usually have little effect, and pretending you’re sick often is
4300 in 2nd/3rd class) with numerous stops Other lines, none distinguished, include counterproductive. Many vehicles have painted slogans such as Mungu Atubariki (God Bless Us)
en route, including at Maisome Island. Takrim/Tawfiq (Arusha, Bukoba, Kampala, or ‘In God we Trust’ – probably in the hope that a bit of extra help from above will see the
Departures from Mwanza are at 8.30am Mwanza, Nairobi, Singida), Sumry (Mbeya, vehicle safely through the day’s runs.
Saturday, arriving at Nkome about 6pm. Sumbawanga) and Jaguar (Bukoba, Kam- To maximise your chances of happy and uneventful travels, try to stick with more reputable
Departures from Nkome are at 8am Sunday. pala). You can book tickets online for Scan- bus companies such as Scandinavian Express and Royal Coach. Also, if you have a choice, it’s
At 8.30am Wednesday the Butiama departs dinavian Express routes, but need to collect usually better to go with a full-sized bus than a minibus or 30-seater bus.
Mwanza for Nyamirembe (northeast of Bi- (and pay for) your ticket at least three days Buses aren’t permitted to drive at night in Tanzania, which is just as well, though at least
haramulo) with a stop en route at Maisome prior to the journey date. in the dark you can’t see the road swerving before you. On most routes, the last departure is
Island (14 hours). Departures from Nyami- generally timed so that the bus should reach its destination by evening (assuming that all goes
rembe are around noon on Thursday. MINIBUS & SHARED TAXI well). For cross-border routes, departures are usually timed so that night driving will be done
For information on connections between For shorter trips away from the main routes, once outside Tanzania.
Mwanza and Ukerewe Island, see p206. the choice is often between 30-seater buses
© Lonely Planet Publications
TA N Z A N I A 264 T R A N S P O R T I N TA N Z A N I A • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N TA N Z A N I A • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 265
TA N Z A N I A
Town and other centres through travel agen- Mikumi National Park, and on the road be-
cies, tour operators and hotels. Except on tween Sumbawanga and Mpanda via Katavi TRAIN COSTS
Zanzibar, most come with driver. Rates av- National Park. Also see p638. Destination 1st class 2nd-class sleeping 2nd-class sitting Economy
erage US$70 to US$120 per day plus fuel,
and less on Zanzibar (where it’s also easy to Hitching Dar es Salaam to Kigoma TSh45,200 TSh33,100 – TSh15,000
hire motorcycles and minibikes, and arrange Hitching in Tanzania is generally slow going. Dar es Salaam to Mwanza TSh44,600 TSh32,600 TSh17,700 TSh18,800
car hire privately). Clarify before setting out It’s prohibited inside national parks, and is Dar es Salaam to Tabora TSh32,700 TSh24,200 TSh13,000 TSh11,000
who bears responsibility for repairs. usually fruitless around them. That said, in Mwanza to Tabora TSh17,600 TSh13,600 TSh7200 TSh6400
remote areas, hitching a lift with truck driv- Tabora to Mpanda TSh16,300 TSh12,600 – TSh6000
ROAD CONDITIONS & HAZARDS ers may be your only transport option, for Dodoma to Singida – – TSh10,400 TSh6900
About 20% of Tanzania’s road network is which you’ll need to pay. See also p638.
paved, including the roads from Dar es Sa-
laam to Arusha via Chalinze, and from Dar Local Transport Train SCHEDULES & COSTS
es Salaam to Mbeya via Morogoro and Ir- DALADALA Tanzania has two rail lines: Tazara (%022-286 Both lines are currently undergoing reno-
inga. The road from Dar es Salaam to Mt- Local routes are serviced by daladalas and, in 0340/4, 022-286 5339; www.tazara.co.tz; cnr Nyerere & Nel- vations and management changes, so you
wara is being paved. Secondary roads range rural areas, pick-up trucks or old Land Rov- son Mandela Rds, Dar es Salaam) links Dar es Salaam should probably expect schedule and price
from good to nearly impassable, depending ers. Prices are fixed and inexpensive: from with Kapiri Mposhi in Zambia via Mbeya changes.
on the season and on when they were last TSh100 for local town runs. The vehicles and Tunduma; the Tanzanian Railway
maintained. For most trips outside major make many stops and are crowded. Acci- Corporation’s Central Line (Map p118; %022- Central Line
towns, you’ll need 4WD. dents are frequent, particularly in minibuses. 211 7833; www.trctz.com; cnr Railway St & Sokoine Dr, Dar Central Line trains depart Dar es Salaam
Hazards include vehicles overtaking on Many are caused when the drivers race each es Salaam) links Dar es Salaam with Kigoma three times weekly in the evening for both
blind curves, pedestrians and animals in the other to a station in order to collect new pas- and Mwanza via Morogoro, Dodoma and Kigoma and Mwanza (splitting at Tab-
road, and children running into the road. sengers. Destinations are either posted in the Tabora. A branch of the Central Line links ora). In theory, both journeys take about
front window, or called out by the driver’s Tabora with Mpanda; there’s also passenger 40 hours, though it’s more often than not
ROAD RULES assistant, who also collects fares. service on the Dodoma–Singida spur. much longer. Trains from both Mwanza and
In theory, driving is on the left, and traffic Tazara is more comfortable and efficient, Kigoma to Dar es Salaam also depart in the
already in roundabouts has the right of way. TAXI but on both lines, breakdowns and long evenings.
Unless otherwise posted, the speed limit is Taxis can be hired in all major towns. None delays are common. Trains travelling between Tabora and
80km/h; on major routes, police have radar. have meters; the base rate for town trips Mpanda (about 14 hours) run three times
Tanzania has a seatbelt law for drivers and is TSh1500. CLASSES weekly, departing Tabora in the evening and
front-seat passengers. The official traffic- There are three classes: 1st class (two- or Mpanda around midday.
fine penalty is TSh20,000. Tours four-bed compartments), 2nd-class sleep- Trains run three times a week between
Motorcycles aren’t permitted in national For safari and trekking operators, see p92. ing (six-bed compartments); and economy Dodoma and Singida (taking around 11
parks, except for the section of the Dar es For local tour operators, see listings in the class (benches, usually very crowded). Some hours), departing in each direction in the
Salaam to Mbeya highway passing through regional chapters. trains also have a ‘2nd-class sitting section’, morning.
with one seat per person. Men and women
can only travel together in the sleeping sec- Tazara
CULTURAL TOURISM PROGRAM tions by booking the entire compartment. Tazara runs three trains weekly: two ‘ex-
To see local life away from the organised safari scene, it’s well worth trying a Cultural Tourism press’ trains between Dar es Salaam and
Program (CTP) tour. These are ‘community-owned’ ventures spread in various places around the RESERVATIONS Kapiri Mposhi in Zambia via Mbeya, and
country, including Ng’iresi, Ilkiding’a, Mulala, Mkuru and Longido (all accessed from Arusha), Tickets for 1st and 2nd class should be re- an ‘ordinary’ train between Dar es Salaam
Machame (Moshi), Marangu, Engaruka and Mto Wa Mbu, Gezaulole (near Dar es Salaam), the served at least several days in advance, al- and Mbeya. Ordinary trains take about
Usambara Mountains (near Lushoto), the northern and southern Pare Mountains and Pangani. though occasionally you’ll be able to get a 24 hours between Dar and Mbeya, and
They range in length from a few hours to a few days, and usually centre around light hikes or seat on the day of travel. Economy-class cost TSh24,500/18,400/12,200 in 1st/2nd/
other activities, with the focus on experiencing local cultures. tickets can be bought on the spot. economy class.
Some of the tours are a bit rough around the edges, but others are well organised, and
they’re great for getting to know Tanzania at the local level. Most have various ‘modules’ avail-
able, from half a day to several nights. Fees (listed in the regional chapters) are reasonable, and
a portion of the income supports community projects such as school or well construction. Per
person costs decrease with increasing group size. Payments should be made on site; always ask
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
for a receipt. restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
Tours should be arranged directly with the local coordinator, although there’s a CTP representa- only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
tive at the Tourist Information Office in Arusha (p181) who can help with those in the Arusha
area and with general information.
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
© Lonely Planet Publications
266 www.lonelyplanet.com K E N YA • • H i g h l i g h t s 267
HIGHLIGHTS
Kenya
Masai Mara National Reserve (p393) Expan- HOW MUCH?
sive savanna, unmatched wildlife and the Local matatu (minibus transport) ride
world’s most fascinating traffic jam – the KSh20
annual wildebeest migration.
Plate of stew/biryani/pilau KSh120
Mt Kenya (p376) Equatorial glaciers, tre-
mendous treks and jagged peaks that Large juice KSh60
would make Mt Kilimanjaro blush with Pair of kangas KSh350
For many people, Kenya is quite simply East Africa in microcosm. The region’s premier tourist envy.
destination really does seem to have it all: wildlife and nightlife, cities and beaches, moun- Lamu Archipelago (p341) The ultimate Taxi home KSh400
tains and deserts, traditional cultures and modern arts, all couched in a range of landscapes Swahili immersion experience, from La-
mu’s winding coral streets to the empty LONELY PLANET INDEX
as staggering in their diversity as they are stunning in their appearance. There are a million
beaches of Kiwayu. Litre of petrol/gas KSh72
different reasons to come here, and picking just one is nigh on impossible. Amboseli National Park (p300) Elephants
K E N YA
K E N YA
and Kilimanjaro, two big bulks com- Litre of bottled water KSh55
The classic image of safari savanna is perhaps the single key selling point for Kenya’s
bined in Kenya’s most famous picture- Bottle of Tusker KSh80
tourist industry, and with all the famous fauna no keen animal-spotter should go home postcard views.
Souvenir T-shirt KSh1000
disappointed. However, clued-up visitors face an infinite choice of alternative settings and Loyangalani (p428) Home to harsh condi-
activities, from trekking the glacial ridges of Mt Kenya to kitesurfing off the white sands of tions, unforgettable tribes and the sub- Street snack (sambusa) KSh10
the Indian Ocean coast, and much more besides. lime jade waters of Lake Turkana.
This sheer diversity is something to be relished, and is by no means limited to the natural CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO Mau Mau Rebellion
There are a number of factors to take into Despite plenty of overt pressure on Ken-
surroundings. The people, too, represent a wide cross section of everything that is contem-
account when considering what time of ya’s colonial authorities, the real independ-
porary Africa, and everyday life brings together traditional tribes and urban families, ancient year to visit Kenya. The main tourist season ence movement was underground. Tribal
customs and modern sensibilities. Swapping the latest political gossip with the switched-on is January and February, when the weather groups of Kikuyu, Maasai and Luo took se-
locals is just one more small pleasure that comes with the culture. is generally considered to be the best – hot cret oaths, which bound participants to kill
and dry, with high concentrations of wild- Europeans and their African collaborators.
Finally, sooner or later on any trip here you’ll look up at the starry skies and feel Africa all life. However, the parks can get crowded The most famous of these movements was
around you, living, breathing and fuelling a thousand dreams. Whatever your mental image and rates for accommodation go through Mau Mau, formed in 1952 by disenchanted
of this region, and wherever you move on to afterwards, Kenya will provide a crucial part
the roof. Avoid the Christmas and Easter Kikuyu people, which aimed to drive the
holiday periods unless you want to pay a white settlers from Kenya forever.
of the picture, and it’s a microcosm not to be missed. fortune. The first blow was struck early in 1953
June to October could be called the with the killing of a white farmer’s entire
‘shoulder season’ (see p433), as the weather herd of cattle, followed a few weeks later
is still dry. During this period the annual by the massacre of 21 Kikuyu loyal to the
wildebeest migration takes place, with colonial government. The Mau Mau rebel-
FAST FACTS thousands of animals streaming into the lion had started.
Area 583,000 sq km Masai Mara National Reserve from the Ser- Within a month, Jomo Kenyatta and sev-
engeti in July and October. eral other Kenyan African Movement (KAU)
Birthplace of Louis and Richard Leakey;
During the long rains (from March to leaders were jailed on spurious evidence. The
Paul Tergat; Dennis Oliech
the end of May, the low season) things are various Mau Mau sects came together under
Capital Nairobi much quieter, and you can get some good the umbrella of the Kenya Land Freedom
Country code 254 deals; this is also true during the short rains Army, led by Dedan Kimathi, and staged
Famous for the Masai Mara; meat eating;
from October to December. The rains gen- frequent attacks against white farms and
erally don’t affect your ability to get around, government outposts. By the time the rebels
marathon runners
it’s just that you may get rained on, espe- were defeated in 1956, the death toll stood
Languages Kiswahili, English, tribal cially in the Central Highlands and western at over 13,500 Africans (guerrillas, civilians
languages Kenya. and troops) and just over 100 Europeans.
Money Kenya Shilling (KSh); US$1 = KSh72; For more details see p621 and p438. Upon his release in 1959 Kenyatta re-
€1 = KSh88 sumed his campaign for independence.
Population 31.6 million
HISTORY Soon even white Kenyans began to feel
The early history of Kenya, from prehistory the winds of change, and in 1960 the Brit-
up until independence, is covered in the ish government officially announced their
History chapter (p28). plan to transfer power to a democratically
268 K E N YA www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K E N YA • • H i s t o r y 269
Kenya
KENYA 0
0
200 km
120 mi
elected African government. Independence Although Moi’s regime was stable com-
was scheduled for December 1963, accom- pared to the desperate situation in many
Ὀ ὈὈ
panied by grants and loans of US$100 mil- surrounding countries, it was also character-
lion to enable the Kenyan assembly to buy ised by nepotism, corruption, arrests of dis-
SUDAN out European farmers in the highlands and sidents, censorship, the disbanding of tribal
ETHIOPIA restore the land to the tribes. societies and the closure of universities.
In 1982 the ruling KANU party pub-
Independence licly banned opposition parties, leading
Fort Banya With independence scheduled for 1963, the to a military coup by the air force, which
ὈὈὈ
Lokichoggio
Malka Mari political handover began in earnest in 1962, was promptly quashed by pro-government
NP Mandera
Ferguson's
Gulf
Lake
Turkana Sibiloi
with the centralist Kenya African National forces. In the run-up to the 1987 election,
NP Moyale Union (KANU) and the federalist Kenya Af- Moi introduced a new voting system and
Kalokol Ngaso
Plain Takaba rican Democratic Union (KADU) forming a jailed opposition leaders without trial, en-
North Horr Sigiso
coalition government. suring that the sole candidate from the sole
K E N YA
K E N YA
Lodwar Plain
Eliye
Lorukumu Springs Buna The run-up to independence was surpris- political party in the country won the elec-
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
El Wak
Loyangalani ingly smooth, although the redistribution of tion – no prizes for guessing who that was!
Moroto land wasn’t a great success; Kenyans regarded After his ‘win’, Moi expanded the cabi-
Lokichar Marsabit Marsabit
UGANDA NR it as too little, too late, while white farmers net to fit in more of his cronies, and rushed
SOMALIA
Marsabit
ey
South Horr NP
feared the trickle would become a flood. The through constitutional reforms allowing him
Vall
South Lokori
Turkana Baragoi Laisamis
Wajir immediate effect was to cause a significant to dismiss senior judges and public servants
NR Losai decline in agricultural production, from without any redress. When dissenting politi-
Rift
Mt Elgon Sigor NR
ὈὈὈ
(4321m)
Tot Parsaloi which Kenya has never recovered. cians were arrested, Christian church lead-
Kapedo Habaswein
Mbale Kapenguria Maralal The coalition government was aban- ers took up the call for change, supported
Kitale Wamba
Shaba Mado Gashi doned after the first elections in May 1963 by another outspoken critic of government
Loruk Lake NR
Tororo
Malaba
Baringo Laikipia Samburu/Buffalo Liboi
and KANU’s Kikuyu leader, Jomo Kenyatta nepotism Professor Wangari Maathai, leader
Busia
Eldoret
Kabarnet
Marigat
NR Springs NR
Rahole (formerly of the KAU), became Kenya’s of the Green Belt Movement.
Butere Kakamega Lake Bogoria Isiolo Meru NR
Shinyalu Nyahururu Nanyuki Timau
Meru NP
first president on 12 December, ruling until Sooner or later, something had to give.
Kakamega
Usenge
his death in 1978. Under Kenyatta’s presi-
ὈὈὈὈὈ Ὀ
ὈὈὈὈ
FR Naro Mt Kenya
Kisumu Molo Kora
Lake
Aharo
Kericho
Nakuru
Moru
Mt Kenya
NP
NR
Garissa
dency, Kenya developed into one of Africa’s The 1990s
Gilgil
Victoria Lake Nakuru
Aberdare
Nyeri (5199m)
Embu
North Kitui
NR
most stable and prosperous nations. The With the collapse of communism and the
Nakuru
Tana
Mbita Homa NP
Bay Kisii
Naivasha NP
Muranga
opposition KADU party was voluntarily break-up of the Soviet Union, it was no
Hell's Gate NP
dissolved in 1964. longer necessary for Western powers to
Rive
Mwingi
Narok Limuru
Migori
r
Sirare Isebania Masai Ewaso
Thika
Arawal Boni
While Kenyatta is still seen as one of the prop up corrupt noncommunist regimes in
Ngong NAIROBI Kitui
Mara Ngiro South Kitui
NR NR few success stories of Britain’s withdrawal Africa. Donors who had previously turned
Ὀ
Tarime NR NR Hola Dodori
Musoma
Lake
Machakos
Mutomo
Tana River
NR Kiunga from empire, he wasn’t without his faults. a blind eye to civil-rights misdemeanours
Magadi Marine
Primate Biggest among these were his excessive bias began calling for multiparty elections if
Th
Magadi Kajiado Emali NR
NR
ika
Lake Witu
Paté Island in favour of his own tribe and escalating economic aid was to be maintained. The
Garsen Lamu Island
Natron Amboseli Tsavo East paranoia about dissent. Opponents of his multiparty movement gained huge grass-
Riv
NP Kibwezi Lamu
NP
regime who became too vocal for comfort roots support in Kenya.
er
Namanga Chyulu
NP Mtito
Andei Tsavo
Galana
frequently ‘disappeared’, and corruption In response, KANU Youth was mobilised
Loitokitok
Mt Kilimanjaro
(5892m) Tsavo West
River soon became endemic at all levels of the to disrupt pro-democracy rallies and harass
Moshi
Taveta
NP
Voi
Gede Malindi power structure. opposition politicians. Things came to a head
Watamu
Arusha
Kilifi Watamu
on 7 July 1990 when the military and po-
Marine NP The 1980s lice raided an opposition demonstration in
Mariakani
Same
Mombasa
Kenyatta was succeeded in 1978 by his vice Nairobi, killing 20 and arresting politicians,
TANZANIA Kwale
Diam
president, Daniel arap Moi. A Kalenjin, Moi human-rights activists and journalists.
Lunga
Lunga Tiwi was regarded by establishment power bro- The rally, known thereafter as Saba Saba
Horohoro
Shimoni
Kisite-Mpunguti
kers as a suitable front man for their inter- (‘seven seven’ in Swahili), was a pivotal event
Marine NP ests, as his tribe was relatively small and in in the push for a multiparty Kenya. The fol-
Tanga Pemba INDIAN thrall to the Kikuyu. Moi went on to become lowing year the Forum for the Restoration
Sagara one of the most enduring ‘Big Men’ in Af- of Democracy (FORD) party was formed,
OCEAN
LEGEND rica, ruling in virtual autocracy for nearly 25 led by Jamagori Oginga Odinga, a powerful
FR Forest Reserve
NP National Park
years. In the process, he accrued an incred- Luo politician who had been vice president
To Dar es
NR National Reserve
Salaam Zanzibar ible personal fortune; today many believe under Jomo Kenyatta. FORD was initially
him to be the richest man in Africa. banned and Odinga was arrested, but the
270 K E N YA • • H i s t o r y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K E N YA • • T h e C u l t u re 271
resulting outcry led to his release and, finally, Further terrorist activity shook the coun- Sadly the optimism that swept Narc into residents of Kenya are more aware of their
a change in the constitution that allowed op- try on 28 November 2002, when suicide power faded fast, and the new regime has tribal affiliation than of being a ‘Kenyan’;
position parties to register for the first time. bombers slammed an explosives-laden been plagued by a constant stream of party this is one of the more fascinating aspects of
Faced with a foreign debt of nearly US$9 car into the lobby of the Paradise Hotel infighting, corruption and economic prob- Kenyan life, but the lack of national cohesion
billion and blanket suspension of foreign at Kikambala, near Mombasa. Moments lems. Above all, the path to reform has been undoubtedly holds the country back.
aid, Moi was pressured into holding multi- before missiles were fired at an Israeli pas- slower and more tortuous than many people This focus on tribe, however, is generally
party elections in early 1992, but independ- senger plane taking off from Mombasa’s had hoped. Most Kenyans still support the accompanied by an admirable live-and-let-
ent observers reported a litany of electoral airport. Al-Qaeda subsequently claimed president himself, but there is a widespread live attitude, such that only on rare occasions
inconsistencies. Just as worrying, about 2000 responsibility for both acts. perception that he is too much of a ‘quiet do tribal animosities or rivalries spill over
people were killed during ethnic clashes in Despite a slump in tourism immediately man’, unwilling to speak up on important is- into violence. In fact, Kenyans generally ap-
the Rift Valley, widely believed to have been after the attacks, the impact has been no- sues while his government runs amok around proach life with great exuberance. Be it on a
triggered by KANU agitation. Nonetheless, where near as great as in 1998, and visitor him. Some progress has certainly been made, crowded matatu, in a buzzing marketplace,
Moi was overwhelmingly re-elected. numbers on the coast are now as healthy you only have to look at the new matatu or enjoying a drink in a bar, you cannot fail
Following the elections, the KANU bowed as ever. However, recent worldwide events (minibus transport) regulations and omni- to notice that Kenyans are quick to laugh
K E N YA
K E N YA
to some Western demands for economic have reawakened fears of terrorism, and present anticorruption signs to see the efforts and are never reluctant to offer a smile.
reforms, but agitation and harassment of there was widespread controversy when the being made. However, security and corrup- This willingness to participate in life as
opposition politicians continued unabated. press reported a shoot-to-kill order for ter- tion remain worrying issues, locals complain it happens is perhaps a reflection of the Af-
The 1997 election, too, was accompanied by ror suspects supposedly issued by National that the cost of living has virtually doubled, rican casual approach to time. You will be
violence and rioting, particularly during the Security minister John Michuki. In a coun- and Kenya has fallen 20 places on the UN doing well to press a Kenyan into rushing
Saba Saba anniversary rally. Again mysteri- try with a significant Muslim population, Human Development Index since 2002. anything. As is the case for many Africans,
ous provocateurs stirred up ethnic violence, it’s no wonder that a jittery atmosphere Marking the halfway point in his term of Kenyans tend to find that they have a lot of
this time on the coast. European and North prevails around these issues. office, 2005 was another uncomfortable year time on their hands so they don’t see the
American tour companies cancelled their for Kibaki, who faced criticism over his han- need to do anything particularly urgently.
bookings and around 60,000 Kenyans lost Kenya Today dling of the national housing crisis, the Tom Education is of primary concern to Ken-
their jobs. Moi was able to set himself up as In June 2001 the KANU entered into a for- Cholmondeley murder case and the civil yans. Literacy rates are around 85% and
peacemaker, calming the warring factions mal coalition government with the NDP service strikes, where thousands of bureau- are considerably higher than in any of her
and gaining 50.4% of the seats for KANU, and DP, creating a formidable power base. crats were sacked for taking strike action over neighbours. Although education isn’t com-
compared to the 49.6% won by the divided However, with Moi’s presidency due to end pay and conditions. Even his wife had several pulsory, the motivation to learn is huge,
opposition parties. in 2002, many feared that Moi would alter high-profile brushes with the media! particularly now that it’s free, and you’ll see
The scene was set for a confrontational the constitution again. This time, though, The biggest setback came in November children in school uniform everywhere in
parliament, but in a trademark Moi man- he announced his intention to retire – on a 2005, when the electorate voted against Kenya, even in the most impoverished rural
oeuvre, the KANU immediately entered into very generous benefits package – with elec- proposed constitutional changes. These communities.
a cooperative arrangement with the two big- tions to be held in December 2002. were the first such reforms in Kenya for Despite their often exuberant and casual
gest opposition parties, the Democratic Party Moi put his weight firmly behind Uhuru 40 years and a key part of the Narc elec- approach, Kenyans are generally quite con-
(DP) and the National Development Party Kenyatta, the son of Jomo Kenyatta, as his tion manifesto, having been thrashed out in servative, and are particularly concerned
(NDP). Other seats were taken by FORD- successor. Meanwhile, 12 opposition par- committee after committee for nearly three with modesty in dress. T-shirts and shorts
Kenya and its various splinter groups. ties – including the DP, FORD-Kenya, years, but many claimed they would have are almost unheard of, though foreign men
While all this was going on, Kenya was FORD-Asili, the National Party of Kenya handed the president more power, pushing may just be able to pull it off. Shirts are an ob-
lashed first by torrential El Niño rains and and Saba Saba-Asili – and several religious the country back into shady political terri- session for Kenyan men and almost everyone
then by a desperate drought that continued groups united under the umbrella of the tory of earlier times. Kibaki, to his credit, wears one, often with a sweater or blazer.
right up to 2000, causing terrible hardship National Alliance Party of Kenya (NAK), accepted the public’s decision gracefully and As Kenya undergoes a slow process of
in rural areas. later known as the National Rainbow promptly dismissed his entire cabinet. modernisation, tradition and modernity are
Preoccupied with internal problems, Coalition (Narc). Presidential candidate With elections due once again in 2007, locked in an almighty struggle, often result-
Kenya was quite unprepared for the events Mwai Kibaki was the former head of the an energetic Uhuru Kenyatta at the head of ing in the marginalisation of some elements
of 7 August 1998. Early in the morning mas- Democratic party. the newly regrouped KANU, and an ambi- of society. This is particularly the case as ur-
sive blasts simultaneously ripped apart the Although initially dogged by infighting, tious bid for the 2016 Olympic Games at- banisation happens apace. Kenya has its fair
American embassies in Nairobi and Dar es within weeks the opposition transformed tracting international attention, the next few share of poverty, alienation and urban over-
Salaam in Tanzania, killing more than 200 itself into a dynamic and unified political years will be an interesting time in Kenyan crowding, but even in the dustiest shanty
people. The effect on Kenyan tourism, and party. When the election came on 27 De- politics, and Kibaki certainly has plenty of towns life is lived to the full.
the economy as a whole, was devastating. cember 2002 it was peaceful and fair and the challenges still to come.
During the next four years, though, coastal result was dramatic – a landslide two-thirds Daily Life
businesses slowly moved to rebuild the tour- majority for Mwai Kibaki and Narc. Despite THE CULTURE Tribe may be important in Kenya, but family
ist industry, helped in part by Italian tour being injured in a car accident while cam- The National Psyche is paramount. Particularly as the pace and
operators, who filled the gap left by Ameri- paigning, Kibaki was inaugurated as Kenya’s It’s fair to say that there is not a great sense demands of modern life grow, the role of
can, British and German companies. third president on 30 December 2002. of national consciousness in Kenya. Many the extended family has become even more
272 K E N YA • • T h e C u l t u re www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K E N YA • • S p o r t 273
important. It is not unusual to encounter is aged under 18. A sign of growing poverty hundreds of dukas (small shops) were set up who follow their ancestral tribal beliefs, the
Kenyan children who are living with aunts, in rural regions is migration to urban areas, across the country. latter are definitely a minority.
uncles or grandparents in a regional town where 33% of all Kenyans now live, many of Asian numbers were augmented after
while their parents are working a desk job in them in squalid shanty towns. WWII and the Indian community came ARTS
Nairobi or working at a resort in Watamu. to control large sectors of the East African Music
Nonetheless, filial bonds remain strong, Multiculturalism economy. However, few gave their active Although there is an indigenous Kenyan
and the separation that brings about such Kenya’s population is made up almost support to the black nationalist movements music scene, the overriding African musical
circumstances in the first place is without entirely of Africans, with small but influ- in the run-up to independence. This earned influence here, as in the rest of East Africa, is
exception a result of a parent’s desire to fur- ential minorities of Asians (about 80,000), the distrust of the African community, who Congolese lingala (dance music, also known
ther opportunities for their family and their Arabs (about 30,000) and Europeans (about felt the Indians were simply there to exploit as soukous). Kenyan bands produced some
children. 30,000). African labour. of the most popular songs in Africa in the
The strength of the family in Kenya is Although Kenya escaped the anti-Asian 1960s, including Fadhili William’s famous
mirrored in the community. Life is gener- AFRICANS pogroms that plagued Uganda during the Malaika (Angel), and Jambo Bwana, Kenya’s
ally played out in the streets and communal Kenya is home to more than 70 tribal rule of Idi Amin, thousands of shops owned unofficial anthem, by the hugely influential
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places. There is no such thing as daycare for groups; for detailed information see p46. by Asians were confiscated and Asians were Them Mushrooms.
young Kenyans; you will inevitably encoun- The most important distinguishing feature forbidden to trade in rural areas. Fortu- Benga is the contemporary dance music
ter the archetypical African scene where a between the tribes is language. The major- nately, Kenya has learned from the lessons of Kenya, characterised by electric guitar
range of children of different ages, usually ity of Kenya’s Africans fall into two major of the economic collapse in Uganda and calls licks and bounding bass rhythms. It origi-
with at least one older sister with a younger language groups: the Bantu and the Nilo- for Asians to ‘go home’ have faded from the nated among the Luo people and became
sibling on her hip, congregate and observe tic. The Bantu people arrived in East Af- political agenda. popular in the 1950s. Since then it has
the hustle and bustle of daily life. This hap- rica in waves from West Africa after 500 spread throughout the country, and been
pens across Kenya, from coastal communi- BC, and include the Kikuyu, Meru, Gusii, SPORT taken up by Akamba and Kikuyu musicians.
ties to villages in the Central Highlands to Embu, Akamba and Luyha, as well as the Soccer is a big deal in Kenya. People are Well-known exponents include DO Misiani
the shanty towns in Nairobi. And even as Mijikenda, who preceded the Swahili in nuts about it, and even those who don’t fol- and his group Shirati Jazz, who have been
urbanisation happens and traditional com- many parts of the coast. low a local team will probably claim to sup- around since the 1960s. You should also
munity structures are fractured, street life Nilotic speakers migrated into the area port Arsenal or Manchester United. In the look out for Globestyle, Victoria Kings and
remains lively. In any town of any size the from the Nile Valley some time later. This Kenyan Premiership, Harambee Stars, AFC Ambira Boys.
afternoon rush hour is always a spectacle: group includes the Maasai, Turkana, Sam- Leopards and Mathare Utd vie for top slot, Contemporary Kikuyu music often bor-
it seems that all the world is afoot as they buru, Pokot, Luo and Kalenjin, which, to- often drawing big crowds. The action is fast, rows from benga. Stars include Sam Chege,
head home past street stalls and wandering gether with the Bantu speakers, account for furious and passionate, sometimes spilling Francis Rugwati and Daniel ‘Councillor’
pedlars and the dust rises gently into the more than 90% of Kenya’s African popula- onto the terraces. Tickets cost KSh300 to Kamau, popular in the 1970s and still going
coppery African twilight. tion. The Kikuyu and the Luo are by far the KSh600 and it’s quite an experience. strong. Joseph Kamaru, the popular mu-
For all this, as Kenya gains a foothold in most numerous groups, and between them Kenyan long-distance runners are among sician and notorious nightclub owner of
the 21st century it is grappling with increas- hold practically all the positions of power the best in the world, although much of their the late 1960s, converted to Christianity in
ing poverty. Once classed a middle-income and influence in the country. competitive running takes place outside the 1993 and now dominates the gospel-music
country, Kenya has fallen to be a low-income A third language grouping, and in fact the country. Even trials and national events in scene.
country, with the standard of living dropping first migrants into the country, are the Cus- Kenya sometimes fail to attract these stars, Popular bands today are heavily influ-
drastically from 2002 to 2005. hitic speakers. They occupy the northeast of despite being flagged in the press well in enced by benga, soukous and Western music,
the country, and include such tribes as the advance. with lyrics often in Swahili. These include
Population El-Molo, Somali, Rendille and Galla. The annual East African Safari Rally (www.east bands such as Them Mushrooms (now re-
Kenya’s population in 2001 was estimated On the coast, Swahili is the name given africansafarirally.com) is a rugged 3000km rally invented as Uyoya) and Safari Sound. For
at 30,765,900. The population growth rate, to the local people who, although they have that passes through Kenya, Uganda and upbeat dance tunes, Nameless, Ogopa DJs
currently at around 2.6%, has slowed in the various tribal ancestries, have intermarried Tanzania along public roadways, attracting and Deux Vultures are recommended acts.
last few years due to the soaring incidence with Arab settlers over the centuries and an international collection of drivers with The biggest thing in Kenya right now is
of HIV/AIDS, which now infects 15% of now have a predominantly Arabic culture. their vintage (pre-1971) automobiles. American-influenced hip-hop, which has
adults. spawned both an avid listening public and
According to 2001 UN figures, life expect- ASIANS RELIGION an active subculture, particularly in Nairobi.
ancy in Kenya is 52 years, although some India’s connections with East Africa go back It’s probably true to say that most Kenyans Look out for local stars, like Necessary Noize,
sources place it as low as 47, due to the ef- to the days of the spice trade, but the first outside the coastal and eastern provinces Nonini, Emmanuel Jal, the Homeboyz DJs
fects of HIV/AIDS. Only 42% of the popula- permanent settlers from the Indian subconti- are Christians of one sort or another, while and the Nairobi Yetu collective.
tion has access to clean drinking water, but nent were indentured workers, brought here most of those on the coast and in the eastern
87% are now thought to have access to ad- from Gujarat and the Punjab by the British part of the country are Muslim. Muslims Literature
equate sanitation. The infant-mortality rate to build the Uganda Railway. After the rail- make up some 30% of the population. In Two of Kenya’s best authors are Ngugi wa
is 65 per 1000 births (a marked increase on way was finished, the British allowed many the more remote tribal areas you’ll find a Thiong’o and Meja Mwangi. Ngugi is un-
the 1997 figure) and 51% of the population workers to stay and start up businesses, and mixture of Muslims, Christians and those compromisingly radical, and his harrowing
274 K E N YA • • E n v i r o n m e n t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K E N YA • • E n v i r o n m e n t 275
criticism of the Kenyan establishment landed lindi and Lamu. Aside from Lake Victoria, a number are killed every year, especially in Although all the parks provide the op-
him in jail for a year (described in his De- Kenya has numerous small volcanic lakes the area around Tsavo East. Current num- portunity to get ‘up close and personal’ with
tained – A Prison Writer’s Diary), lost him and mighty Lake Turkana, which straddles bers are estimated at 28,000. wildlife, remember that these are wild ani-
his job at Nairobi University and forced him the Ethiopian border. mals and their actions can be unpredictable.
into exile. Meja Mwangi sticks more to social Within volcanic craters, and on the Rift PLANTS Heed the warnings of guides and rangers
issues and urban dislocation, but has a bril- Valley floor, are several soda lakes, rich in Kenya’s flora is notably diverse because of while on safari, and seek local advice before
liant sense of humour that threads its way sodium bicarbonate, created by the filtering the country’s wide range of physiographic venturing off alone into the wilds.
right through his books, including his latest, of water through mineral-rich volcanic rock regions. The vast plains of the south are The most important national parks and
The Mzungu Boy. and subsequent evaporation. characterised by distinctive flat-topped aca- reserves in Kenya are summarised on p76.
Kenya’s latest rising star is Binyavanga cia trees, interspersed with the equally rec- Smaller parks include Mt Longonot National
Wainaina, currently a writer for the South Wildlife ognisable baobab trees and savage whistling Park, a dormant volcano; Marsabit National
African Sunday Times newspaper, who won ANIMALS thorn bushes, which made early exploration Park, with large herbivores and dense for-
the Caine Prize for African Writing in July There’s such a dazzling array of animals in of the continent such a tortuous process. est; and Sibiloi and Central Island National
2002. The award-winning short story Dis- Kenya that viewing them in the national The savanna grassland of the Masai Mara Parks on Lake Turkana.
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covering Home is about a young Kenyan parks is one of the main reasons for visiting. supports a huge variety of animal life. The Entry fees to national parks are control-
working in Cape Town who returns to his The ‘Big Five’ – lion, buffalo, elephant, leop- grass grows quickly after the rains, provid- led by the KWS, while national reserves are
parents’ village for a year. ard and rhino – and a huge variety of other ing food for a huge range of herbivores and administered by the relevant local council.
Another interesting writer is Marjorie animals can be seen in at least two of the insects, which in turn feed a variety of pred- See p276 for park categories and prices.
Oludhe Magoye, whose The Present Moment major parks. Some of the most interesting ators. Trampling and grazing by herbivores
follows the life stories of a group of elderly are described in the Wildlife Guide (p57), promotes the growth of grasses, rather than Environmental Issues
women in a Christian refuge. For more or in much more detail in Lonely Planet’s broadleaf plants, which are more vulnerable DEFORESTATION
writing by women in Africa try Unwind- Watching Wildlife East Africa. to damage from grazing, drought and fire. More than half of Africa’s forests have been
ing Threads, a collection of short stories by The birdlife here is equally varied, and On the slopes of Mt Elgon and Mt Kenya destroyed over the last century, and forest
many authors from all over the continent. includes such interesting species as the os- the flora changes with altitude. Thick ever- destruction continues on a large scale in
trich, vulture and marabou stork. Around green temperate forest grows between Kenya – less than 3% of the country’s origi-
ENVIRONMENT bodies of water you may see flamingos, 1000m and 2000m, giving way to a belt of nal forest cover remains. Land grabbing,
The Land cranes, storks and pelicans, while the for- bamboo forest up to about 3000m. Above illegal logging, charcoal burning and ag-
Kenya straddles the equator and covers ests are home to hornbills and rare species, this height is mountain moorland, char- ricultural encroachment all take their toll.
an area of some 583,000 sq km, including such as the yellow weaver bird, sunbird and acterised by the amazing groundsel tree However, millions of Kenyans still rely on
around 13,600 sq km of Lake Victoria. It is touraco. There are also dozens of other spe- and giant lobelias. In the semidesert plains wood and charcoal for cooking fuel, so trav-
bordered to the north by the arid bushlands cies of weaver bird, which make the distinc- of the north and northeast the vegetation ellers will almost certainly contribute to this
of Ethiopia and Sudan, to the east by the tive baglike nests seen hanging from acacia cover is thorny bush, which can seem to deforestation whether they like it or not.
Indian Ocean and the wastes of Somalia, to trees. go on forever. In the northern coastal areas The degazetting of protected forests is
the west by Uganda and Lake Victoria, and mangroves are prolific and there are still a another contentious issue, sparking wide-
to the south by Tanzania. Endangered Species few small pockets of coastal rainforest. spread protests and preservation campaigns.
Kenya is dominated by the Rift Valley, a Many of Kenya’s major predators and herbi- On the flip side, locals in forest areas can
vast range of valleys that follows a 5000km- vores have become endangered because of National Parks & Reserves find themselves homeless if the government
long crack in the earth’s crust. Within the Rift the continuous destruction of their natural Around 10% of Kenya’s land area is pro- does enforce protection orders.
are numerous ‘swells’ (raised escarpments) habitat and merciless poaching for ivory, tected by law, and the national parks and Despite these problems, some large areas
and ‘troughs’ (deep valleys, often containing skins, horn and bush meat. reserves here rate among the best in Africa. of protected forest remain. The Mt Kenya,
lakes), and there are some huge volcanoes, The black rhino is probably Kenya’s most Despite the ravages of human land exploita- Mt Elgon and Aberdare National Parks,
including Mt Kenya, Mt Elgon and Mt Kili- endangered species, due to poaching for tion and poaching, there is still an incredible Kakamega Forest Reserve and Arabuko
manjaro (across the border in Tanzania). its horn. Faced with relentless poaching by variety of birds and mammals in the parks, Sokoke Forest are all tremendous places to
The Rift Valley divides the flat plains of heavily armed gangs in the 1980s, the wild and going on safari is an integral part of the visit, packed with thousands of species of
the coast from the hills along the lakeshore. rhino population plummeted from 20,000 in Kenyan experience. fauna and flora.
Nairobi, the capital, sits in the Central High- 1969 to just 458 today. Rhino Ark (%020-604246; More popular parks, such as the Masai
lands, which are on the eastern edge of the www.rhinoark.org) raises funds to create rhino Mara National Reserve and Amboseli Na- KENYA WILDLIFE SERVICE (KWS)
Rift Valley. Kenya can roughly be divided sanctuaries in the parks, complete with tional Park, can become heavily overcrowded With a total ban on hunting imposed in
into four zones: the coastal plains; the Rift electric fencing, and donations are always in the high season (January to February). 1977, the KWS was free to concentrate
Valley and Central Highlands; the lakeshore; appreciated. There are currently sanctuaries Fortunately, the smaller and more remote solely on conserving Kenya’s wildlife. This
and the wastelands of northern Kenya. in Tsavo and Lake Nakuru National Parks, parks, such as Saiwa Swamp National Park, came just in time, as the 1970s and ’80s were
The main rivers in Kenya are the Athi/ while Aberdare National Park is in the proc- see only a handful of visitors at any time marred by a shocking amount of poach-
Galana River, which empties into the Indian ess of being fenced. of the year. A number of marine national ing linked to the drought in Somalia, which
Ocean near Malindi, and the Tana River, While the elephant is not technically en- parks have also been established, providing drove hordes of poachers across the border
which hits the coast midway between Ma- dangered, it is still the target of poachers, and excellent diving and snorkelling. into Kenya. A staggering number of Kenya’s
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The Laikipia Wildlife Forum (%062-31600; www
NATIONAL PARK FEES .laikipia.org) is an umbrella organisation rep- JIKO
Park entry fees in Kenya are slowly being converted to a ‘smartcard’ system. These cards must resenting many lodges and conservation One innovative idea to minimise firewood
be charged with credit in advance and can only be topped up at certain locations; they remain areas in Laikipia, the large slab of ranch use is the jiko stove, based on a Thai de-
the property of the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) and must be surrendered once they run out of land northwest of Mt Kenya. Ranches in this sign and modified to suit the Kenyan way
credit. Any credit left once you finish your trip cannot be refunded. area are particularly active in wildlife con- of cooking. Easy and cheap to manufacture,
At the time of research the smartcard system was in use at Nairobi, Lake Nakuru, Aberdare, servation, and the forum is a good source the jiko consists of an hourglass-shaped
Amboseli, Tsavo East and Tsavo West National Parks. Other parks still work on a cash system. of up-to-date information. Other private metal casing and a ceramic insulator that
You can purchase and charge smartcards at the KWS headquarters in Nairobi and Mombasa, at wildlife ranches and conservation areas can delivers 25% to 40% of the heat from the
Aberdare headquarters, at Lake Nakuru main gate, at Voi gate in Tsavo East, and at the Malindi be found around Tsavo and Amboseli Na- fire to the pot, much more than open fires.
Marine National Park office. tional Parks. After some uncertainty, Kenyans have em-
Entry fees to the parks per person are as follows: braced the jiko with enthusiasm and hun-
TOURISM dreds of open-air workshops now provide
The tourist industry is the cause of seri-
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Entry Entry Camping Camping stoves for nearly a million households.
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Parks nonresident resident nonresident resident ous environmental problems, most notably
(category) adult/child US$ adult/child KSh adult/child US$ adult/child US$ heavy use of firewood by tourist lodges and
erosion caused by safari minibuses, which without milk ask for chai kavu. Coffee is
Aberdare, Amboseli, 30/10 500/200 10/5 300/100 cut across and between trails and follow also sweet and milky, with a bare minimum
Lake Nakuru (A) wildlife into the bush, creating virtual dust- of instant granules. In Nairobi there are a
Meru, Tsavo East & 27/10 500/200 10/5 300/100 bowls in parks such as Amboseli, Samburu handful of excellent coffee houses, and you
West (B) and Masai Mara. can usually get a good filter coffee at any
Nairobi, Shimba Hills (C) 23/10 500/200 10/5 300/100 The KWS now insists that every new lodge of the big hotels. With all the Italian tour-
all other parks (D) 15/5 500/200 8/5 200/100 and camp must be designed in an ecofriendly ists, you can get a decent cappuccino pretty
marine parks 5/2 100/50 - - manner. As a result, there are growing num- much anywhere on the coast.
bers of ‘ecolodges’ in Kenya, which keep their Soft drinks, such as Coke, Sprite and
The land-based parks and reserves charge KSh200 for vehicles with fewer than six seats and impact on the environment to a minimum Fanta, are available everywhere under the
KSh500 for vehicles seating six to 12. In addition to the public camping areas, special camp sites through recycling, use of renewable energy generic term of sodas. The nation’s favourite
cost US$10 to US$15 per adult nonresident, plus a KSh5000 weekly reservation fee. Guides are resources, and strict controls on dumping of juice is passionfruit; pineapple, orange and
available in most parks for KSh500 per day. refuse and the types of fuel that are used. mango juices also feature on most menus.
The Masai Mara, Samburu, Buffalo Springs and Shaba National Reserves have the same entry As a visitor, the best way to help combat The local beers are Tusker, White Cap and
fees as category A national parks; entry to Mt Kenya National Park is US$15/8 per adult/child. these problems is to be very selective about Pilsner (all manufactured by Kenya Brewer-
Arabuko Sokoke and Kakamega Forest Reserves are joint KWS and Forestry Department projects who you do business with. While you may ies), sold in 500ml bottles. Guinness is also
and charge US$10/5 for an adult/child. end up paying more for an ecofriendly trip, in available, but tastes nothing like the real
All fees cover visitors for a 24-hour period, but a recent change in regulations means that most the long term you’ll be investing in the preser- thing – it’s often drunk mixed with Coke!
parks will no longer allow you to leave and re-enter without paying twice. vation of Kenya’s delicate environment. Castle (a South African beer) is also made
under license by Kenya Breweries. Beers
FOOD & DRINK are cheapest from supermarkets (KSh45
rhinos and elephants were slaughtered, and wildlife reserves, with the backing of the The food in Kenya is essentially the same as for 500ml); bars charge KSh80 to KSh200.
many KWS officers worked in league with KWS and international donors. you’ll find in the rest of this region. Nyama Other bottled drinks include Hardy’s cider,
poachers until famous palaeontologist Dr choma is the one local speciality; this is Redd’s and Kingfisher (fruity alcopops), and
Richard Leakey cleaned up the organisation PRIVATE CONSERVATION technically barbecued meat, but bears little the ubiquitous Smirnoff Ice.
in the 1980s and ’90s. A core part of his It has been claimed that more than 75% resemblance to any Western understand- Kenya has a fledgling wine industry and
policy was allowing KWS rangers to shoot of Kenya’s wildlife lies outside the national ing of the term! You buy the meat (usually the Lake Naivasha Colombard wines are
poachers on sight, which seems to have dra- parks and reserves, and an increasing goat) by the kilogram, it’s cooked over a said to be quite good, unlike local papaya
matically reduced the problem. number of important wildlife conserva- charcoal pit and served in bite-sized pieces wine, which tastes foul and smells worse.
However, there have been several new tion areas now exist on private land. Lewa with a vegetable side dish. Sometimes it’s You can get cheap imported wine by the
raids on elephants and rhinos since 2001. Wildlife Conservancy (p419), near Isiolo, is surprisingly good, but often you’ll require glass for around KSh150 in Nairobi restaur-
As a result, there is now open talk of aban- a prime example. Private wildlife reserves a large supply of toothpicks. ants. In the big supermarkets you’ll pay any-
doning some of the more remote parks and often have the resources to work intensively Despite the fact that Kenya grows some thing from KSh500 to KSh1500 for a bottle
concentrating resources where they can on specific conservation issues and it is no of the finest tea and coffee in the world, of South African wine.
achieve the best results and on the parks, accident that some of the largest concen- getting a decent cup of either can be dif- Although it is strictly illegal to brew or
that receive most visitors. At the same time trations of rhinos are within these areas. ficult. Chai (tea) is drunk in large quanti- distil liquor, this still goes on. Pombe is
community conservation projects are being Supporting these projects is a great way for ties, but the tea, milk and sugar are usually the local beer, usually a fermented brew
encouraged, and many community-owned visitors to contribute to Kenyan communi- boiled together and stewed for ages, coming made with bananas or millet and sugar. It
ranches are now being opened up as private ties and assist wildlife preservation. out milky and horrendously sweet. For tea shouldn’t do you any harm.
278 N A I R O B I • • H i s t o r y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N A I R O B I • • I n f o r m a t i o n 279
but as the rails of the East Africa railway INFORMATION
LETHAL BREW fell into place, a depot was established on Bookshops NAIROBI IN…
Kenya has a long tradition of producing its the edge of a small stream known to the Book Villa (Map pp282-3; %337890; Standard St) New, Two Days
own bootleg liquor, but you should steer well Maasai as uaso nairobi (cold water). Nairobi discounted and second-hand books. While most people use Nairobi as a stop-
clear of chang’a. In mid-2005, 48 people died quickly developed into the administrative Bookpoint (Map pp282-3; %211156; Moi Ave) over, there’s still plenty to do if you have
near Machakos after drinking a bad batch nerve centre of the Uganda Railway, and in Bookstop (%714547; Yaya Centre, Hurlingham) a day or two to kill. Start at the National
of the stuff; a further 84 were hospitalised 1901 the capital of the British Protectorate Text Book Centre Kijabe St (Map pp280-1; %330340, Museum (p284), then head to the city cen-
and apparently treated with vodka! Such in- was moved here from Mombasa. Kijabe St); Westlands (Map p288; %3747405; Sarit Centre, tre for coffee (p290), some Chinese (p289)
cidents are not uncommon. Sorghum Baridi, Even when the first permanent build- Westlands) One of the best bookshops in East Africa. and a movie (p291).
from Central Province, contains so much me- ings were constructed, Nairobi remained Westland Sundries Bookshop Nairobi (Map pp282-3; On the second day you can view the
thyl alcohol that the bottles are actually cold a real frontier town, with rhinos and lions %212776; New Stanley Hotel, Kenyatta Ave); Westlands city from the Kenyatta Conference Centre
to the touch! Perhaps the most dangerous freely roaming the streets, and lines of iron- (Map p288; %446406; Ring Rd Westlands, Westlands) (p285) and browse contemporary art at the
chang’a comes from Kisii, and is fermented roofed bungalows stretching across the National Archives (p285). In the evening
plain. However, once the railway was up Cultural Centres
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with marijuana twigs, cactus mash, battery
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Carnivore (p298) in Karen is a must, or you
alkaline and formalin. Needless to say these and running, wealth began to flow into the All the foreign cultural organisations have can dance dirty at Simmers (p291) and the
brews can have lethal effects and we don’t city. The colonial government built some libraries open to the public. infamous New Florida (p291).
recommend that you partake. grand hotels to accommodate the first tour- Alliance Française (Map pp280-1; %340054; www
ists to Kenya – big game hunters, lured by .alliancefrnairobi.org; cnr Monrovia & Loita Sts;
the attraction of shooting the country’s al- h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat) Has the Four Days
NAIROBI most naively tame wildlife. Sadly almost all best events program of all the cultural centres, showcasing With another two days, you can also ven-
of the colonial-era buildings were replaced Kenyan and African performing arts. ture out towards the suburbs. Westlands
by bland modern office buildings following British Council (Map pp280-1; %334855; www has plenty of good eating spots between
%020 / pop 2.5 million uhuru (independence) in 1963. .britishcouncil.org/kenya; Upper Hill Rd; h9.30am- the shops at the Sarit Centre (p290) and
Who’s afraid of big bad Nairobi? Well, quite 5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1pm Sat) Kenya’s best Indian restaurant, Haandi
a lot of people apparently – the city’s reputa- ORIENTATION Goethe Institut (Map pp280-1; %224640; www (p289).
tion precedes it, so much so that most visi- The compact city centre is in the area .goethe.de/nairobi; Maendeleo House, cnr Monrovia & For your final 24 hours, breakfast at the
tors arrive prepared to dive in and out in the bounded by Uhuru Hwy, Haile Selassie Ave, Loita Sts; h10am-12.30pm Thu-Tue, 2-5pm Mon-Fri) Pasara Café (p289), do some shopping
shortest time possible. It’s certainly true that Tom Mboya St and University Way. Ken- Japan Information & Culture Centre (Map pp282-3; (p292), and finish at Casablanca (p291) for
Kenya’s capital requires that bit more big- yatta Ave divides this area in two; most of %340520; www.ke.emb-japan.go.jp; ICEA Bldg, Keny- Moroccan food and drinks.
city common sense than most, and it’s hard the important offices lie to the south, while atta Ave; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Free video shows and
not to feel a little nervous once the streets there are hotels, the city market and more Japanese cinema screenings.
empty after dark. offices to the north. Most budget accom- Nairobi Cultural Institute (Map pp280-1; %569205; Capital Realtime (Map pp282-3; %247900; Lonhro
However, it’s easy enough to sidestep the modation is northeast of the city centre, on Ngong Rd) Holds lectures and other functions of local House, Standard St; per min KSh2; h8.30am-7.30pm
worst of the city’s dangers, and there’s ab- the far side of Tom Mboya St and around cultural interest. Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat)
solutely no reason why a streetwise traveller Latema, Accra and River Rds. This area has EasySurf (Map p288; %3745418; Sarit Centre, Westlands;
can’t survive and even enjoy a stay here. In a bad reputation for robbery. Emergency per min KSh4; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)
terms of facilities, the city has more going North of the city centre are the Univer- AAR Health Services (Map pp280-1; %717376;
for it than any other Kenyan conurbation: sity of Nairobi, the National Museum and Fourth Ngong Ave) Libraries
the cultural scene is thriving, the nightlife the expat-dominated suburb of Westlands. Aga Khan Hospital (Map pp280-1; %3662000; Third Kenya National Library (Map pp280-1; %2725550;
is unbridled and it’s virtually the only place Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is Parklands Ave) www.knls.or.ke; Ngong Rd; h8am-6.30pm Mon-Thu,
in the country where you can get a truly southeast of the central Nairobi; also south Amref flying-doctor service (%502699) 8am-4pm Fri, 9am-5pm Sat) The main public library.
varied diet. are Langata and Karen suburbs and Wilson Emergency services (%999) Fire, police and ambu- McMillan Memorial Library (Map pp282-3;
Even if the inner city does terrify you, it’s airport. lance. Don’t rely on their prompt arrival. %221844; Banda St; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-
easy to get out into the suburbs, where you Police (%240000) For less urgent police business. 4pm Sat) A smaller collection in a colonial-era building.
can relax with the large local expat commu- Maps
nity, and make the most of even more top- For a rudimentary guide to the central area, Internet Access Medical Services
rank amenities, award-winning restaurants a variety of free promotional maps are avail- There are literally hundreds of Internet cafés Avoid the Kenyatta National Hospital.
and friendly bars. able. If you want more detailed coverage, the in central Nairobi, most of them tucked AAR Health Services Nairobi (Map pp280-1;
best option is the Survey of Kenya City of away in anonymous office buildings. Con- %715319; Williamson House, Fourth Ngong Ave); West-
HISTORY Nairobi: Map & Guide. Also adequate is the nection speed is usually pretty good. lands (Map p288; %446201; Sarit Centre, Westlands)
As you might guess from all the tower 1:15,000 Map Guide of Nairobi City Centre AGX (Map pp280-1; Barclays Plaza, Loita St; per min KSh1; Acacia Medical Centre (Map pp282-3; %212200;
blocks, Nairobi is a completely modern cre- (KSh200) published by Interland Maps. h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) Best connections in town. [email protected]; ICEA Bldg, Kenyatta Ave; h7am-
ation and almost everything here has been Much better, though bulkier, is Nairobi Avant Garde e-centre (Map pp282-3; Fedha Towers, 7pm Mon-Fri, 7am-2pm Sat)
built in the last 100 years. Until the 1890s AtoZ (KSh510) by RW Moss, which covers Kaunda St; per min KSh1.50; h7.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, Aga Khan Hospital (Map pp280-1; %740000; Third
the whole area was just an isolated swamp, the whole city in detail. 11am-6pm Sun) Enter via Standard St. Parklands Ave;h24hr)
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ
280 N A I R O B I www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N A I R O B I • • I n f o r m a t i o n 281
Nairobi Nairobi
NAIROBI 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
KAM Pharmacy (Map pp282-3; %251700; Executive
Tower, IPS Bldg, Kimathi St) Pharmacy, doctor’s surgery
A B C D E F
ὈὈὈὈ
Ὀ ὈὈὈὈ
Ὀ
Sec
ond Third
Park
and laboratory.
First Par To US Embassy (4km);
To Bushbuck
Adventures
Park
land
s Av
klan
ds A
ve
land
s Av
e
3 Canadian High Commission Medical Services Surgery (Map pp282-3; %317625;
Par (4km); Village Market (4.5km)
W
kla (500m) e
Bruce House, Standard St; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
d
aiy
nds
iR
Parklands
ak
Rd
ach
Nairobi Hospital (Map pp280-1; %722160) Off Arg-
i
1 1
W
Shiv
Sports Rd
ay
Rd Ca
na wings Khodek Rd.
ka lis First EATING
pa ed Park
Westlands M la nds Blue Nile Ethiopian Restaurant...29 A5
To Thika
M
Chic Joint...................................30 C4
Ave
Money
ut
Par City (38km)
M
St
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ
See Westlands Map (p288)
hi
klan re FK Restaurant............................31 C4
og
th
ds am Park
ot
Rd Hong Kong Restaurant..............32 D3 In the centre of Nairobi, Barclays branches
Rd
io
Rd
Rd
Nyama Choma Place................(see 33)
W
with guarded ATMs include those located
Taarifa Rd
u
tla ur Hindu
es
To Dutch Embassy Sagret Hotel...............................33 B4
e
nd
Lim Temple
Av
(1km); Ugandan High s
on Muindi Mbingu St (Map pp282–3),
Ojijo R
Uchumi......................................34 D3
ts
Commission (2km); Rd Forest Rd
or
Hindu Temple
Nairo bi Riv La
Ch
Sp
German Embassy (2.5km)
o Mama Ngina St (Map pp282–3), and on
iro
er m Rd
Desai Rd
d
ro
m
hi st
o
the corner of Kenyatta and Moi Aves (Map
K E N YA
K E N YA
Riverside
re
C Ko
Rd
Riv
Fo
Rd
Park lob Lim
ers
2 ot 2
iyo
ide uru pp282–3). You will also find multiple
Ki
Rd
Rd
Ke
ὈὈ ὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ
Dr
ric
Rd
ae
hw
branches in Westlands and Hurlingham.
Rd
un
a D
Rd
ogo Ch Mog
us
15 d em ira R
ab
River Chiromo A104
ll R d The other big bank in town is the Stand-
ra
5 Ngara
Park
ilil
pk
Hi
Rd
Des
Rd
Nga
Rd
Ki
36 m
bi
eu Rd 'a ard Chartered, which has numerous central
ai
ga
m
Kinshasa
us
17 an
he
Rd
ur Rd
Rd
Ar
us
b Ma River M branches.
M
16
Ring
son ai Ki
ore
ga W pa
Nairobi nd Ch
am Foreign-exchange bureaus offer slightly
tum
e ber Ngara
Rd
Ha Uhuru
sR
d Rd better rates for cash.
rry
INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Riv
er
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ Ὀ
14
Nairobi Jevanjee
AmEx (Map pp282-3; %222906; Hilton Hotel, Mama
Th
AAR Health Services.....................
Arboretum r
1 B5 DKenya Fisheries Department.......15 C2
uk
Kija
u
ACK Language & Orientation Kuona Trust...............................16 C2
School......................................2 B5 National Museum......................17 C2
Rd be
St
Kariokor
Market Ngina St; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Handles travellers
Hwy
3 d 26 3
Aga Khan Hospital........................3 E1 m R Railway Museum.......................18 D5
Arboret8)u 35
Kariokor cheques and looks after mail for clients.
AGX...........................................(see Snake Park...............................(see 16)
Ng
University Cosmos Forex (Map pp282-3; %250582; Rehema
ara
Alliance Française........................ 4 D4
Q
Way Kir Rd
ua
House, Standard St)
Rd
Australian High Commission.........5 B2 SLEEPING iny Na
rry
28 St Mo To ag iro
British Council............................(see 6) Fairview Hotel............................ 19 C5 32 34 ovia i A aR
nr m bi
Goldfield Forex (Map pp282-3; %244554; Fedha
Rd
Do d
Mo ve M
Sta
British High Commission..............6 D5 Heron Hotel...............................
ro 20 B4
Ri
e
bo Riv
Rd
bo
Mu
38
cours
te
ng
Ho ya er
Towers, Kaunda St)
d
Ethiopian Embassy........................7 B4 High Point Hotel........................ 21 D6
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈ Ὀ
u se
aR
Rd
i St St
ind
French Embassy...........................8 D4 R d Rd li
em
Hotel Salama Annexe................. 22 B4 Uta
Rd
House
Race
31 9
Mayfair Forex (Map pp282-3; %226212; Uganda
Pumwani
i M
Lat
Goethe Institut.............................9 C4 Milimani Hotel...........................23 B4
Rd
Ko a St
bing
Israeli Embassy...........................10 B5 Nairobi Serena Hotel..................24 C4 House, Standard St)
Loit
ina
cra
30
Rd
te
u S
Kenya National Library............... 11 C5 Nairobi Youth Hostel..................25 B5 8
Ac
nge
State
Sta
Ri
Barclays Av
e
Postbank (Map pp282-3; 13 Kenyatta Ave) For Western
Nyerere
Nairobi Cultural Institute..........(see
House 11) Norfolk Hotel.............................26 D3
ve
Plaza tta St
r
St
Nairobi Hospital..........................12 B5 Upper Hill Campsite...................27 C6 nya ala Mosque
Ke Ng Union money transfers.
Tom
Central Pumwani Rd
Sudanese Embassy.....................13 C4 YMCA.......................................28 C3 Park n ald
4 Text Book Centre....................... 14 D3 Ro 39 4 Travellers Forex Bureau (Map p288; %447204; The
Mo
Mb
Mamlaka
Rd Lan
Tropical Winds...........................(see 8)
i
dhie
oya
y Mall, Westlands)
Av
e Wa s R
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
Ὀ
13 24 Av all d
e
State tta yH
State nya
St
House Cit
House 7
Rd
City e
Rd Ave Ke Square Av
e Av
Post
lands
ie
Uhuru bee ass
Ralph Bunche Rd Sel
Uh
Par
To Palacina 22 Park ram
Wood
33 23 20 Ha aile
uru
(1.2km)
The enormous main post office (Map pp282-3;
liam
All Saints' H
Milimani Rd Cathedral
Hw
ent
%243434; Kenyatta Ave; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-
Pro
Milimani Police
y
ces
Station
To Casablanca Lena Rd 10 noon Sat) is a well-organised edifice close to
sio
na Rd
Rd
y ie
(1km); South African lle lass
n
Va Rd e
High Commission (1.2km) ps e S Uhuru Park. There’s a very basic poste-
Wa
Firs
ho See Central Nairobi Haile Rd
Bis
tN
ὈὈὈὈ
y
19 Map (pp282–3) Av tion restante service in the same office as the
gon
Sta
Wo
Thir
Jabav 2
gA
5 u Rd 5 parcel desk, where you’ll need to bring
dN
odla
Rd
Hurlingham
ve
Fif
gon
Low
nds
g
your parcels so the contents can be ex-
th
on
g A
Golf Course 18
e
Ng
Ralp
Ng
Av
25
Rd
er
ve
11 ssie Hil
29
amined. Bring a roll of parcel wrapping
on
l Rd
h Bu
Argwin 1 Sela
gs Kodhek Rd
g
Haile
Upp
nch
6
paper and parcel tape so you can seal the
Av
To Yaya Centre 37 er
Raga
Valley
12
e R
(500m); Basecamp Nairobi Hill A104 ENTERTAINMENT
Hi
package once it’s been inspected; you can
d
Explorer (750m)
ti R
ll
International Casino.................(see 36)
Rd
buy these at Seal Honey (Map pp282-3; %216376;
Rd
Hospital Rd
Rd Kenya National Theatre..............35 C3
d
To Go-Down Arts Centre
Ngong (1.5km); Jomo Kenyatta
Kilim
Toona Tree Bar & Restaurant.....36 C2
Rd Mara
Rd International Airport 27 Kenyatta Ave).
Ngong (13km); Machakos (63km);
anja
If you just want stamps, there are post
i Way
Rd
Mombasa (521km) TRANSPORT
ro R
Indonesian i Rd
Automobile Association of
a offices on Moi Ave (Map pp282–3), Haile
d
Embassy 21 Kenya....................................37 A5
gath
l
g
Kenyatta
Hospita
Menen
6 National 27 Avis...........................................38 C3 6 Selassie Ave (Map pp282–3) and Tom
Mba
d
Hospital n R Country Bus Station....................39 F4
Mucai Elgo Mboya St (Map pp282–3). The Moi Ave
Dr Emirates...................................(see 31)
Kenya Airways...........................(see 8)
KLM...........................................(see 8)
office is a good place to send parcels; pack-
To Wilson Airport (2km); ing boxes are available to buy for KSh50
Langata (13km)
to KSh100.
ὈὈ
ὈὈ ὈὈ
282 N A I R O B I • • C e n t r a l N a i r o b i www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N A I R O B I • • C e n t r a l N a i r o b i 283
Central Nairobi Central Nairobi
0 200 m
CENTRAL NAIROBI 0 0.1 miles
A B C D E F G H
ὈὈ
ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ
Q
ua
rry
Police Nairobi Rd
Station 77
Rd
Ng
Kirin EATING
ip
1 1
ara
yaga
Rd Alan Bobbé's Bistro....................49 A2
Sl
Rd Rive
Rd
r e Beneve Coffee House................50 A4
rs
ou
St
c Fiesta Restaurant & Bar..............51 A3
o
ce
in
Rd
Ra
w
46 Malindi Dishes...........................52 D3
La St
O
M
Rd
via via
iro
oi Nyama Choma Stalls..................53 B6
nro
a'a
ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ
nro Keekorok Rd
Ja
Av
Mo 95 Mo
e
e Panda Chinese Restaurant..........54 B3
ng
om
86
a 42
ur Ngariama La Pasara Café................................55 B3
Kil
Jevanjee
Mu
M 58 Restaurant Akasaka....................56 B3
Rd
Gardens
ind
41 er River Rd Seasons Restaurant.................... 57 D4
Riv 43
i M
103 Du Supreme Restaurant...................58 C2
Khoja Firestation La rum
b
8 Mosque Taj............................................. 59 D2
ing
Ko
aR
79 d
m
Tamarind Restaurant................. 60 D5
u S
La Lagos Rd Cr
bo
os
Rd
89
K E N YA
K E N YA
St u 17 97 sR Tanager Bar & Restaurant..........61 C3
jug
t
Cr
M
ah N 93 19 Du os d
un
2 92 add 2 St Go To Tim 38 bo sL Thorn Tree Café.......................(see 44) 2
yir
rD Standard is a
ara ve Rd
Ko
m Du
kta bo La
iR
ὈὈὈὈ
h
ὈὈὈ
Ὀ
ias Chartered rn M bo Trattoria.....................................62 B3
a
Mo 47
mb
B Rd m ro
d
i
bo 39 T is
as
Bank en a 100
te
n s Rd
oM
ma ya
m
Rd tL Rd av
La
b o
Ku
Tu a St 48 DRINKING
ali Ts
e Rd
6 La
un
Koin
Kig Jamia 40 av
o M Dormans Café............................63 C3
yir
Mosque Du
Rd
Rd un Riv
ang
Ta
cours
Ki
i La
ve yu er rum 90 Green Corner Restaurant &
m
St
Mw
cra
59 Rd
e
15 at ta a Rd
al
hi ata Cactus Pub.............................64 D4
Ac
ani
Tim Rd 36
br
KaLa
Race
49 75 te
Rd
33 La 4 Go
Ca
bo Rd Kahawa....................................(see 54)
La
ma
umw
Ki ve ro 52 Ya
tta
St
Rd
m rn aL
e
Nairobi Java House....................65 C3
e
St
Rd
at m Rd
on
29 a
ket hi en
Rd P
Wa
72 Taco Bell.................................... 66 D4
la
r
ber
St 45 tL
Ma
ne
St 34
wa
25 a
ber
da 10
Ga
ro
d 98 Zanze Bar.................................(see 70)
Uk
Ring
Ban 44 eR
be
a S
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Ὀ
99 Gw
Loit
51 Standard rum
Ga
Mu
ve Ka a
Rd si
t
26 Chartered A ikh
a S
5 11 Sikh uli ENTERTAINMENT
ny
27 Bank Temple Luth She
u
Mu
t
61 20th Century Cinema.................67 B3
3 20 a 87 3
eL
ind
55 76 30 KAM Pharmacy..........................11 C3 Club Soundd..............................68 B3
m
aru
Mf
e 14
i M
81 Av 32 63 3 K Let's Go Travel...........................12 A3 Florida 2000.............................. 69 D4
Rd
tta 24 ikh
ang
a 74 She Main Post Office........................13 A4 Kenya Cinema........................... 70 D4
bin
eny 62
ina
St 37 St
ano
K 88 68 35
Uy
gu
1 St Ng ala Mayfair Forex.............................14 B3 Nairobi Cinema..........................71 C4
67 ma Ng
Ko
nda
om
56 wani Rd 15 B2
St
21 Ma McMillan MemorialPum Library........ New Florida...............................72 A3
St
82 ald
Kau Rd
ina
12 7 n
aS
St 80 85 Ro Medical Services Surgery............16 B3 Professional Centre....................73 B6
ard
nge
54 65 94
Tom
102
ple
t
nd 16
Sta 83 Lan
Post Office.................................17 B2 Simmers.....................................74 B3
Tem
dhie
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Ὀ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
St
s Rd 18 C5
Mb
Post Office.................................
St
oya
50
Aga
13 Post Office.................................19 C2 SHOPPING
84 nda 96
Kau Postbank....................................20 B3 City Market................................75 A2
St
64
Kha
Mf
City Hall 57 66 Seal Honey................................21 A3 Gallery Watatu...........................76 C3
n W
Holy Family
ang
9 Cathedral Spanish Embassy......................(see 82) Maasai Market...........................77 A1
71
Po
alk
ano
22 i Tanzanian High Commission......22 C4
sta
69 an
Nk
y w
St
Wa Telkom Kenya........................... 23 D5 TRANSPORT
rum
Rd
Law m
Taif
ll Pu
Ha
Mo
4 4
Wa
y Courts Telkom Kenya..........................(see 13) Air India.................................... 78 D4
ah
Cit Rd
a R
kuli
70 iR g Ugandan High Commission Airport Bus Departure Point...(see 102)
Av
Rd
La
kat in
d
sta Ha R
e
ma
Po (Consular Section).................24 B3 Akamba.....................................79 C2
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
Ὀ ὈὈὈ Mfa
Exc
Exp
Rd
Westland Sundries Bookshop.....25 C3 Akamba Booking Office.............80 B3
han
res
nga
ge
City Square Avenue Car Hire........................81 A3
sL
La
no
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES British Airways...........................82 C3
We
a
28
La
Adventures Aloft......................(see 45) Budget.......................................83 B3
rug
78
A ve Best Camping Tours...................26 B3 Bus & Matatu Stop (for
aL
Aga
as sie
Sel Eastern & Southern Safaris.........27 A3 Hurlingham & Milimani)........ 84 A4
a
ile
Kha
American Embassy
Par
Uh
91
Jomo Kenyatta Memorial Garden Ha Kenyatta Conference Centre......28 C4 Bus Stop (for Langata, Karen &
n W
uru
liam
Mausoleum 60 Mzizi Arts Centre.......................29 C3 Airport).................................. 85 D3
alk
ent
National Archives.......................30 D3 Bus Stop (for Westlands)............86 A1
Hw
ve 23
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
Tum
A Origins Safaris..........................(see 54) Buses to Kisii & Migori................87 F3
y
bee
Rd
Office of
The President ram Police Parliament House.......................31 A5 Central Rent-a-car......................88 B3
bo
5 Ha Station 5
Ha
INFORMATION Safari Seekers.............................32 C3 Coastline Safaris Office..............89 D2
Av
101
ram
e
Ha
Acacia Medical Centre.............(see 10) Saferide Safaris...........................33 B2 Crossland Services......................90 F2
ile
bee
Uhuru 31 American Express.....................(see 37) Sana Highlands Trekking Easy Coach Office......................91 E5
Sela
Avant Garde e-centre...................1 B3 Expeditions............................34 C3 Ethiopian Airlines.....................(see 16)
La
Park
Par
ssie
Barclays Bank...............................2 A2 Gametrackers Ltd.......................92 A2
liam
La
18 Barclays Bank...............................3 C3 SLEEPING Glory Car Hire............................93 B2
ve
ent
ie A
Wo
La
Barclays Bank...............................4 C2 Ambassadeur Hotel................... 35 D3 Glory Car Hire............................94 C3
nty ass
Sel
La
Book Villa.....................................5 C3 Grand Holiday Hotel..................36 D2 KBS Booking Office....................95 A1
rks
Cou ile
Ha
ho
Bookpoint....................................6 C2 Hilton Hotel...............................37 C3 KBS Bus Station..........................96 F4
Co
73 Train
Bunson Travel..........................(see 55) Hotel Africana............................38 D2 Main Bus & Matatu Area...........97 D2
unt
Station
Rd
Capital Realtime.......................(see 55) Hotel Greton..............................39 D2 Matatus to Mtito Andei..............98 F3
y R
Cosmos Forex............................(see 5) Iqbal Hotel.................................40 C2 Matatus to Naivasha &
d
Playing Fields A104 Egypt Air......................................7 C3 Kenya Comfort Hotel.................41 A2 Namanga.............................(see 99)
Rd Flight Centres...............................8 B2 Meridian Court Hotel..................42 B1 Matatus to Nyahururu & Nyeri...99 F3
6 ay 6
eB Rd
Pat ve tio
n Goldfield Forex........................(see 54) New Kenya Lodge.....................43 D2 Matatus to Thika......................100 F2
53 ar ia A Sta Immigration Office......................9 A4 New Stanley Hotel.....................44 C3 Matatus to Wilson Airport,
Ng
Italian Embassy........................(see 82) Oakwood Hotel.........................45 C3 Nairobi National Park,
Haile Selassie Ave Japan Information & Culture Parkside Hotel............................46 A1 Langata & Karen...................101 D5
Centre....................................10 B3 Terminal Hotel...........................47 A2 Metro Shuttle Bus Stand.......... 102 D3
Japanese Embassy....................(see 10) Wilton Gateway Hotel............... 48 D2 Scandinavia Express.................103 C2
284 N A I R O B I • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N A I R O B I • • S i g h t s 285
Telephone occurrences, and the underlying social ills
Public phones are common in Nairobi, but behind them are unlikely to disappear in SCAMS
many just don’t work. the near future. Nairobi’s active handful of confidence tricksters seem to have relied on the same old stories for
Telkom Kenya (Map pp282-3; %232000; Haile Selassie However, the majority of problems happen years. The usual tactic is to accost you in the street and strike up a conversation about current
Ave; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Has dozens in the slums, far from the main tourist zones. affairs in your country.
of payphones and you can buy phonecards. There’s also a The central Nairobi area bound by Kenyatta One local speciality is the Sudanese refugee scam, where your interlocutor has supposedly
branch at the main post office. Ave, Moi Ave, Haile Selassie Ave and Uhuru just won a scholarship to a university in your country and would love to have a chat with you
Hwy is comparatively trouble-free as long as about life there. Then at some point you’ll get the confidential lowering of the voice and the
Many stands in central Nairobi sell Telkom you use a bit of common sense, and there are Sudanese portion of the story kicks in with ‘You know, I am not from here…’, leading into an
Kenya phonecards and top-up cards for pre- plenty of askaris (security guards) around at epic tale of woe.
paid mobile phones. Alternatively, there are night. Stay alert and you should encounter Of course once you’ve shown due sympathy they’ll come to the crux of the matter: all they
numerous private agencies in the city cen- nothing worse than a few persistent safari need is KSh1700 to ‘get to Dar es Salaam’. Giving money or anything else is likely to result in
tre offering international telephone services. touts and the odd wannabe con artist. you being ‘arrested’ by fake policemen and forced to pay an exorbitant fine. In some cases
Typical charges are KSh150 to KSh200 per Even around the city centre, though, there
K E N YA
these accomplices get so into their role that they beat up the original conman for the sake of
K E N YA
minute to almost anywhere in the world. are places to watch out for: danger zones authenticity!
include the area around Latema and River As with all these type of scams, the best way of avoiding real trouble is to decline any offers
Tourist Information Rds, a hotspot for petty theft, and Uhuru or invitations made on the street. After a day or two in Nairobi you’ll quickly learn to spot a
Despite the many safari companies with Park, which tends to attract all kinds of budding ‘refugee’.
signs saying ‘Tourist Information’, there dodgy characters.
is still no official tourist office in Nairobi. Once the shops have shut, the streets
For events and other listings you’ll have to empty rapidly and the whole city takes on a National Archives Parliament House
check the local newspapers or glean what slightly sinister air – mugging is a risk any- Right in the bustling heart of Nairobi is If you fancy a look at how democracy works
you can from a handful of magazines, which where after dark. Take a taxi, even if you’re the distinctive National Archives (Map pp282-3; in Kenya, it’s possible to obtain a permit
take a bit of effort to hunt down. Go Places only going a few blocks. This will also keep % 749341; Moi Ave; admission free; h 8.30am-5pm for a seat in the public gallery at parliament
(free) and the Going Out Guide (KSh150) you safe from the attentions of Nairobi’s Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm Sat), an enormous collec- house (Map pp282-3; %221291; Parliament Rd) – just
are probably the most widespread, avail- street prostitutes, who flood into town in tion of documents and reference material remember, applause is strictly forbidden! If
able from travel agents, airline offices and force after sunset. housed in the impressive former Bank of parliament is out of session, you can tour
some hotels. India building. The ground-floor atrium the buildings by arrangement with the ser-
SIGHTS and gallery display an eclectic selection geant at arms.
Travel Agencies National Museum of contemporary art, historical photos
Bunson Travel (Map pp282-3; %221992; www.bunson A grand alternative to the dozens of poky of Nairobi, cultural artefacts, furniture Kenyatta Conference Centre
kenya.com; Pan-African Insurance Bldg, Standard St) A good little local museums around the country, and tribal objects, giving casual visitors Towering over City Sq, Kenyatta Confer-
upmarket operator, with offices around Africa. Kenya’s National Museum (Map pp280-1; %742131; a somewhat scatter-gun glimpse of East ence Centre (Map pp282–3), Nairobi’s sig-
Flight Centres (Map pp282-3; %210024; Lakhamshi www.museums.or.ke; Museum Rd; adult/child KSh200/100; African heritage. nature building, was designed as a fusion
House, Biashara St) Discounted air tickets, camping safaris h9.30am-6pm) is housed in an imposing of modern and traditional African styles,
and overland trips. building amid lush leafy grounds just out- Railway Museum though the distinctive saucer tower looks a
Let’s Go Travel (www.lets-go-travel.net) Central Nairobi side the city centre, and has a good range of You don’t have to don an anorak to appreci- little dated now. Staff will accompany you
(Map pp282-3; %340331; Caxton House, Standard St); cultural, geological and natural-history ex- ate this interesting little museum (Map pp280-1; up to the rooftop viewing platform (adult/child
Karen (Map p298;%882505; Karen shopping centre); hibits. Volunteer guides offer tours in Eng- Station Rd; adult/child/student KSh200/20/100; h8.15am- KSh400/200) for wonderful views over Nairobi.
Westlands%447151; ABC Place, Waiyaki Way, Westlands) lish, Dutch and French; it’s worth booking 4.45pm), which displays relics from the East The sight line goes all the way to the sub-
Flights, safaris, car hire and pretty much anything else them in advance. There’s no charge for their African Railway. There are train and ship urbs, and on clear days you can see air-
you might need. It publishes an excellent price list of services, but a donation is appropriate. models, photographs, tableware and oddities craft coming in to land over the Nairobi
accommodation in Kenya (also on its website), and acts as The 1st floor also contains the excellent from the history of the railway, such as the National Park. You can take photographs
booking agent for many off-the-beaten-track options. Gallery of Contemporary East African Art, where Engine Seat that allowed visiting dignitaries from the viewing level but not elsewhere.
Tropical Winds (Map pp280-1; %341939; www local artists exhibit their work; as all the like Theodore Roosevelt to take pot shots at Access may be restricted during events and
.tropical-winds.com; Barclays Plaza, Loita St) Nairobi’s STA items are for sale the displays change regu- unsuspecting wildlife from the front of the conferences.
Travel representative. larly, and it’s always an interesting cross sec- train. In the grounds are dozens of fading
tion of the contemporary scene. For a look locomotives in various states of disrepair, Arts Centres
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES at the artists in action, the Kuona Trust (Map dating from the steam days to independence, The Go-Down Arts Centre (%5552227; Dunga Rd), a
Prospective visitors to Nairobi are usually pp280–1), a nonprofit art studio where Ken- including the steam train used in the movie converted warehouse in the Industrial Area
understandably daunted by the city’s un- yan artists can gather and express them- Out of Africa. in Nairobi’s southeast, contains 10 separate
enviable reputation – ‘Nairobbery’, as it is selves, is just by the museum. The museum is reached by a long lane art studios and is rapidly becoming a hub
often called by residents, is commonly re- In the grounds, there’s a recreated Kikuyu beside the train station, or you can cut for Nairobi’s burgeoning arts scene.
garded as the most dangerous city in Africa. homestead and a snake park (adult/child KSh200/100; across the vacant land next to the Shell The Mzizi Arts Centre (Map pp282-3; %574372;
Carjacking, robbery and violence are daily h9.30am-6pm). petrol station on Haile Selassie Ave. Sonalux House, Moi Ave) is a good place to view
286 N A I R O B I • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N A I R O B I • • S l e e p i n g 287
contemporary Kenyan art, craft, dance, lit- Hotel Africana (Map pp282-3; %220654; Dubois Rd; budget district, with a great balcony restau- Milimani & Nairobi Hill
erature and performance art. s/d/tw/tr incl breakfast KSh600/800/1000/1500) The Af- rant overlooking the street. Rooms are spa- BUDGET
ricana has clean, bright rooms and is better cious and comfortable, there’s a salon and Upper Hill Campsite (Map pp280-1; %2720290; www
FESTIVALS & EVENTS looked after than many places in its class. gym, and the whole effect is more inviting .upperhillcampsite.com; Menengai Rd, Nairobi Hill; camping
Kenya Fashion Week (%0733-636300; Sarit Centre, The plain Coffee House restaurant special- than most of the cheap dives nearby. KSh300, tents KSh450-1000, dm/r KSh400/1000; i) Off
Westlands) An expo-style fashion event held in June. ises in Indian vegetarian food. Grand Holiday Hotel (Map pp282-3; %221244; Hospital Rd near the Indonesian embassy,
Tusker Safari Sevens (www.safarisevens.com; Impala Wilton Gateway Hotel (Map pp282-3; %341664; [email protected]; Tsavo Rd; s & d KSh1050, Upper Hill offers a range of accommodation
Club, Ngong Rd, Karen) A high-profile international seven- Dubois Rd; s/d KSh600/900) A decent, comfort- tr/ste KSh2000/2200) White faces seem to be a in a pleasant and secure compound, plus a
a-side rugby tournament held every June. The Kenyan able hotel popular with Kenyan salesmen. bit of a novelty here, but Kenyan business- well-used little restaurant and bar. Facilities
team has a strong record. The Gateway Pub below sells beer at 1990s men have latched onto it as a good deal, include hot showers and a cosy fireplace.
Kenya Music Festival (%2712964; Kenyatta Confer- prices, which explains the slight evening particularly the suites. There’s a vehicle-maintenance bay and the
ence Centre) Held over 10 days in August, the country’s noise factor! Oakwood Hotel (Map pp282-3; %218321; www owners can help you find a mechanic. It’s a
longest-running music festival was established almost YMCA (Map pp280-1; %2724116; ymca@iconnect .madahotels.com/oakwood.html; Kimathi St; s/d/tr 15-minute walk from the city centre, or you
US$60/75/85) It’s questionable how it justifies can take bus or matatu 18 from Kenyatta Ave
K E N YA
80 years ago by the colonial regime. African music now .co.ke; State House Rd; s/d with shared bathroom KSh690/
K E N YA
predominates, but Western musicians still take part. 1180, with private bathroom KSh940/1480) It might not these prices, but this very central hotel does to the Kenyatta National Hospital, which is
convince the Village People, but this is an at least offer a bit of character. The same just around the corner.
SLEEPING OK place with a range of passable rooms. chain runs several properties around Kenya Nairobi Youth Hostel (Map pp280-1; %2723012;
City Centre Rates include the daily membership fee. and Uganda. [email protected]; Ralph Bunche Rd, Milimani; dm
BUDGET KSh600-700, d with shared bathroom KSh800, apt KSh2000;
Iqbal Hotel (Map pp282-3; %220914; Latema Rd; MIDRANGE TOP END i) A well looked–after budget option, Nai-
dm/s/d/tr KSh300/400/600/960) The Iqbal has been Kenya Comfort Hotel (Map pp282-3; %317606; www Nairobi Serena Hotel (Map pp280-1; %2822000; robi’s Hostelling International (HI) branch
popular for years, and is still possibly the .kenyacomfort.com; cnr Muindi Mbingu & Monrovia Sts; [email protected]; Central Park, Procession Way; s/d is still usually a good place to meet other
best place in the area to meet fellow budget- s US$26-36, d US$32-42, tr US$42-45, q US52-55) An ex- US$308/376, ste US$418-736; ai) Consolidat- travellers. A year’s HI membership costs
conscious travellers. It’s secure and the askari cellent addition to Nairobi’s sleeping scene, ing its reputation as one of the best top- KSh400, or you can pay a KSh100 surcharge
can arrange taxis at reasonable prices. this cheerily painted place is kept in top flight chains in East Africa, this entry in per day. Any matatu or bus going down ei-
New Kenya Lodge (Map pp282-3; %222202; www nick, offering a fine selection of modern the Serena canon displays a fine sense of ther Valley or Ngong Rds will drop you off.
.nksafaris.com; River Rd; dm KSh300, r with shared bath- tiled rooms. Breakfast in the popular 24- individuality. Given the choice, opt for one Many people have been robbed returning to
room KSh350, with private bathroom KSh650) A long- hour bar-restaurant costs an extra US$5 of the amazing garden suites. the youth hostel by foot after dark; always
standing travellers’ haunt, the New Kenya (US$4 if booked in advance). New Stanley Hotel (Map pp280-1; %316377; www take a matatu or taxi at night.
Lodge’s staff are very friendly and there’s Meridian Court Hotel (Map pp282-3; %313991; .sarovahotels.com; cnr Kimathi St & Kenyatta Ave; s/d from
a sociable lounge area. Hot water may be [email protected]; Muranga’a Rd; s/d/tr KSh2950/3650/ US$225/250; ais) A Nairobi classic: the MIDRANGE & TOP END
available in the evenings. The lodge also 4200; is) The elaborate lobby is rather original Stanley Hotel was established in Heron Hotel (Map pp280-1; %2720740; www.heron
runs its own safaris, although we’ve had more prepossessing than the grey concrete 1902, but the current site has only been in hotel.com; Milimani Rd, Milimani; s/d/tr KSh3295/4490/5780;
mixed reports. blocks above it, but it’s hardly worth com- use since 1912 and the latest version is a very is) Management here is very keen to
plaining when you’re essentially getting a smart modern construction, run by Sarova shake the reputation gleaned when the house
suite for the price of a standard room. There’s Hotels. Colonial décor still prevails inside, bar was the most notorious whorehouse in
THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE no great luxury involved but the facilities though, with lashings of green leather, chan- Nairobi. Today it’s a model of respectability,
Terminal Hotel (Map pp282-3; % 228817; make it good value. deliers and old-fashioned fans. The various and the kitchenette doubles are a bargain.
Moktar Daddah St; s/d/tr KSh1200/1500/1800) Parkside Hotel (Map ppp282-3; %333568; parkside@ house eateries are all well regarded. High Point Hotel (Map pp280-1; % 2724312;
Sure, there are plenty of bigger, flashier insightkenya.com; Monrovia St; s/d/tr KSh1300/1700/2200) Norfolk Hotel (Map pp280-1; % 216940; www www.highpointcourt.com; Lower Hill Rd, Nairobi Hill; ste
and fancier places to stay in Nairobi, but Just opposite Jevanjee Gardens, Parkside is .lonrhohotels.com; Harry Thuku Rd; s/d US$281/337, ste KSh4000-5000, apt KSh4000-7000; is) If you’re
for our money the Terminal is still one of modest but decent enough value. Breakfast US$361-557; ais) Built in 1904, Nairobi’s looking for space and seclusion, this World
the only hotels in town where the price ac- in the rather nice downstairs restaurant oldest hotel was the place to stay during co- Bank–affiliated suite and apartment complex
tually feels right. The emphasis here is on will set you back KSh300 per person. lonial days, and still attracts plenty of guests is an excellent choice. The split-level rooms
doing the basics well, and it’s an approach Ambassadeur Hotel (Map pp282-3; %246615; Tom who at least look like old-school settlers. The come with kitchenette and living room.
that works: staff are relaxed, tolerant and Mboya St; s/d/tr US$35/45/65) Believe it or not this stylish Ibis Grill Restaurant (mains KSh1300 Palacina (% 2715517; www.palacina.com; Kitale
thoroughly amenable, the location’s great, big hotel opposite the National Archives to KSh3500) is one of the best in Kenya. Lane, Milimani; ste per person US$190, penthouses US$490;
the water’s hot, the beds are comfortable once belonged to the posh Sarova chain, and Hilton Hotel (Map pp282-3; %250000; rm.nairobi@ is) Possibly the first genuine boutique
and most rooms are a decent size. There structurally not much has changed, though hilton.com; Mama Ngina St; s/d from US$179/209; hotel in Kenya, this fabulous collection of
are a few downsides, but you could pay we suspect room standards were rather nais) The Hilton dominates the impossibly stylish suites must be one of
over twice as much even in Milimani for more exacting in those days. Breakfast costs city centre with its distinctive round tower, the country’s top addresses for well-heeled
shoddier accommodation and impersonal US$10 per room. occupying virtually an entire block with sophisticates.
service. For a reliable haven in fast-paced Hotel Greton (Map pp282-3; %242891; greton@ its rooms, restaurants, shops and other fa- Fairview Hotel (Map pp280-1; %2711321; www
Nairobi you can’t go wrong here. wananchi.com; Tsavo Rd; s/d/tr incl breakfast KSh950/ cilities. Prices are exclusive of 26% tax and .fairviewkenya.com; Bishops Rd, Milimani; s/d from
1200/1700) A big block hotel in the heart of the service charge. KSh5900/8200; aisc) A good top-end
288 N A I R O B I • • E a t i n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N A I R O B I • • E a t i n g 289
Westlands
0 300 m
WESTLANDS 0 0.2 miles but grills, stews and nyama by the kilo
should never go out of fashion. THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE
A B C D Pasara Café (Map pp282-3; %338247; Lonrho
ὈὈ ὈὈ
Malindi Dishes (Map pp282-3; Gaberone Rd; mains
INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Furusato Japanese Restaurant.......9 B2 KSh80-200) As the name suggests, this place Bldg, Standard St; dishes KSh120-350; hfrom 7am
AAR Health Services Clinic........(see 3) Savage Wilderness Safaris Ltd....(see 3) Haandi Restaurant.....................10 C3
Barclays Bank...............................1 B2 Sarit Centre................................11 B2 serves great food from the coast. You’ll get Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat) At the forefront of Nai-
Barclays Bank.............................(see 3) SLEEPING Sarit Centre Food Court...........(see 11)
1 EasySurf.....................................(see 3) Hillcrest Hotel..............................5 A2 Siam Thai...................................12 C2
a grand feed, but it’s a Muslim place, so it’s robi’s burgeoning café culture, this stylish
Post Office...................................2 C3 Jacaranda Hotel............................6 B2 closed for prayer at lunchtime on Friday. modern bar-brasserie never fails to impress
Post Office...................................3 B2 DRINKING
Text Book Centre.......................(see 3) EATING Bar Code....................................13 B3
FK Restaurant (Map pp280-1; %223448; Hazina with its nifty selection of snacks, sand-
Travellers Forex Bureau............(see 10) Addis Ababa Restaurant...............7 C3 Gypsy's Bar................................14 B3 Towers, Monrovia St; mains KSh120-200) This immacu- wiches, grills and breakfasts, always offering
ὈὈ ὈὈ
Westland Sundries Chowpaty Pure Vegetarian Klub House................................15 D3
Bookshop................................ 4 B3 Restaurant...............................8 C3 late daytime caféteria at the rear of an office something a little more ambitious than the
To Let's Go Travel 9 ri Rd To Bike
ENTERTAINMENT block makes an appealing alternative to the usual cafeteria fare. The juices come highly
du Fox Cineplex............................(see
Ca 11)
Karu
kin 3 Treks
surrounding grubbier canteens. recommended, and the atmosphere equals
Lo
(1.5km); Limuru (35km); na
Mu 16 B3
Pavement...................................
w
Naivasha (86km) (100m) lis
er
11 Ka
na R
ed
Beneve Coffee House (Map pp282-3; %217959;
l
that of any European coffee house, making
uC
be
te Str m
ea
ng
SHOPPING
d
Rd
ku
cnr Standard & Koinange Sts; dishes KSh20-140; hMon-
K E N YA
ds
it a fine place to relax away from all the
K E N YA
Mosque
M
Spinner's Web............................17 B3
lan
Parkla
Cl
2
d
nds R Triangle Curios Market..............18 C2 Fri) A small self-service chop shop that has stresses of the capital’s streets. After 5pm
iR
18
d West
5
a
d
au
E422
iel
ὈὈὈὈ
Os
Undugu Craft Shop....................19 C2
M
locals queuing outside in the mornings it turns into a popular upscale bar, with a
vid
6
Da
Ring R
W
Westland TRANSPORT
s Ave Standard
12
waiting for it to open. limited menu of snacks.
aiy
Chartered 19 Bus & Matatu Stands..................20 B3
ak
Seasons Restaurant (Map pp282-3; %227697; Nai-
iW
Bank Bus & Matatu Stands.................21 C3
1 Market
ay
robi Cinema, Uchumi House, Aga Khan Walk; mains KSh240-
14
280, buffets KSh280) Whatever the season, the of South Indian dishes, such as dhosa (lentil
W
oo 7
4 dv To Thika (41km) 15
Mogot io
Sports Rd
ale
Gv cafeteria vats here always brim with cheap pancakes stuffed with vegetable curry).
17 10 Rd Kenyan and Western favourites. Supreme Restaurant (Map pp282-3; %331586;
e
ka La
pa si
16 pe River Rd; meals KSh170-250) Near the junction with
Rd
2 M
13 ds ay M a
3 8 w iL
W
an ss az NYAMA CHOMA Tom Mboya St, this place offers excellent
es
tl o
20 Cr sk
tla
es A104 21
Westlands Ka
nd
W
Kenyans tend to give short shrift to vege- Punjabi vegetarian thalis (plate meals) and
sR
Rd
d
Rhapta
ng
tarianism – nyama choma (p277) is the superb fruit juices.
Ch
Rd
M
Ri
To City
iro
ut
Centre (2km) Westlands Cl ri
hi
m
du national dish and just about every pub- Taj (Map pp282-3; Taveta Rd; dishes KSh20-100)
th
o
Riverside in
iR
uk Rd
Rd
d
Park M restaurant in town will throw a goat leg Basic, ultracheap Indian soul food.
on the coals for you any time of day. For a
choice nicely removed from the central EATING more exotic take on things there are some Ethiopian
hubbub. It’s near the scarily well-guarded Nairobi is well stocked with places to eat, amazing restaurants where you can sample Blue Nile Ethiopian Restaurant (Map pp280-1;
Israeli Embassy. particularly in the city centre, where you can game meats; the most famous is Carnivore % 0722-898138; [email protected]; Argwings Kod-
Hotel Salama Annexe (Map pp280-1; %2729272; choose anything from the cheap workers’ in Langata (p298). hek Rd, Hurlingham; mains KSh300-450) Blue Nile’s
Milimani Rd, Milimani; s KSh1500, d KSh2500-3000) The canteens around River Rd to Chinese feasts Nyama Choma Place (Map pp280-1; %2720933; quirky painted lounge couldn’t be mistaken
Salama Annexe has a budget feel to it, even and full-on splurges off Kenyatta Ave. For Sagret Hotel, Milimani Rd; meals KSh400-600) This res- for anywhere else. For the full communal
in the generously furnished ‘deluxe’ rooms, dinner it’s also worth heading out to the taurant is highly rated by Kenyans. It’s best to African eating experience, order the seven-
and it may be possible to camp here. Rates suburbs, which offer dozens of choices of come in a group, as meat is sold in the form person doro wat (spicy traditional chicken
include breakfast in the popular but shabby cuisine from all over the world; Westlands of whole goat legs or complete racks of ribs. stew, KSh3500).
nyama choma bar-restaurant. has the best range, and there are some good Nyama choma stalls (Map pp282-3; Haile Selassie Ave) Addis Ababa Restaurant (Map p288; %4447321;
choices in Hurlingham. The posher places A definite step down the scale, but worth it Woodvale Grove, Westlands; mains KSh400-500; hnoon-
Westlands listed here accept credit cards, and most add for the atmosphere, are the backstreet stalls 3pm Mon-Sat & from 6pm daily) Up some stairs in
Hillcrest Hotel (Map p288; % 4444883; hillcrest@ 17% value added tax (VAT) to the bill. near the Railway Museum, behind the Shell an unremarkable block, you’ll find good au-
africaonline.co.ke; Waiyaki Way; s/d KSh1300/1700) The There are Nakumatt and Uchumi super- petrol station. thentic food and occasional live music here.
only mid-priced option this side of Museum markets all over town, and all the big shop-
Hill Rd, a short walk from the Sarit Centre. ping centres have extensive food courts. Indian Chinese & Thai
There’s plenty of space, and the general at- Haandi (Map p288; %4448294; The Mall Shopping Centre, Nairobi’s Oriental restaurants offer ‘large’
mosphere is pleasant and relaxed. Kenyan & Swahili Ring Rd Westlands, Westlands; mains KSh600-995; hnoon- (good for two people) and ‘small’ portions
Jacaranda Hotel (Map p288; %4448713; jacaranda Like the rest of the country, lunch is the 2.30pm & 7-10.30pm; a) An international award- (enough for one), but add 16% VAT to the
[email protected]; Westland Rd; s/d US$120/150; main meal of the day, and city workers flock winner widely regarded as the best Indian bill, so prices can soon mount up.
is) Westlands’ other convenient accom- to the dozens of cheap canteens dishing up restaurant in Kenya. The menu reads like a Panda Chinese Restaurant (Map pp282-3;
modation option is a smart former Block simple, classic dishes. recipe book crossed with a guide to mughlai % 213018; Fedha Towers, Kaunda St; mains KSh380-
Hotels property, slightly worn around the Chic Joint (Map pp280-1; %337119; Utalii House, (North Indian) cuisine. 1480; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10pm) A spacious, very
edges but generally offering good standards. Utalii St; mains KSh150-250) One of our favourite Chowpaty Pure Vegetarian Restaurant (Map p288; classy Asian restaurant hidden away on
There are restaurants on site, and free shut- new bar-restaurant discoveries, chic might %3755050; Shimmers Plaza, Westlands Rd, Westlands; mains Kaunda St. The food is the best Chinese
tle buses run to the city three times daily. not be the first word that springs to mind, KSh200-350; h11am-11pm) A great place with lots chow we found in Nairobi.
290 N A I R O B I • • D r i n k i n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N A I R O B I • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t 291
Hong Kong Restaurant (Map pp280-1; %228612; you’ll need to budget at least KSh2500 for Casablanca (%2723173; Lenana Rd, Hurlingham; and long trousers. Due to the high numbers
[email protected]; College House, Koinange St; mains the full works. hfrom 6pm) This hip new Moroccan-style of female prostitutes, men will generally get
KSh300-600; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10pm) A bright- Trattoria (Map pp282-3; %340855; cnr Wabera & lounge bar has been an instant hit with the bulk of the hassle in all these places,
red restaurant with good food and not too Kaunda Sts; mains KSh400-1800; h7.30am-midnight) A Nairobi’s fastidious expat community, and though even women in male company are
much clichéd décor. It’s the cheapest proper very popular central Italian swathed in trel- you don’t have to spend much time here to by no means exempt.
Chinese in town. lises and plants, offering excellent pizza, pasta become a convert. Pavement (Map p288; %4441711; Waiyaki Way,
Tanager Bar & Restaurant (Map pp282-3; %221615; dishes, varied mains and a stack of desserts. Zanze Bar (Map pp282-3; %222532; Kenya Cinema Westlands; admission KSh500) Split between a re-
Rehema House, Kaunda St; mains KSh280-350; h11am- Plaza, Moi Ave) A lively and friendly top-floor laxed ground-level bar and the big, modern
11pm Mon-Sat) A cheap and simple Chinese- Quick Eats bar with pool tables, a dance floor, cheap basement club, Pavement is the dancefloor
African eatery right in the city centre. Sarit Centre (Map p288; %3747408; www.saritcentre beer and reasonable food. During the week of choice for most resident expats. Week-
Siam Thai (Map p288; %3751728; Unga House, Muth- .com; Parklands Rd, Westlands) This huge food things are relatively quiet, but from Friday ends favour the kind of jump-up commer-
ithi Rd, Westlands; mains KSh250-680) This attractive court on the 2nd floor has a variety of small to Sunday it rocks until the early hours. cial dance music you might get on a night
restaurant has an extensive menu of actual restaurants and fast-food places, including Gypsy’s Bar (Map p288; %4440836; Woodvale Grove, out in Europe.
Thai food (gasp!). Indian, Chinese, Italian and African food. Westlands) This long-running bar is made up Simmers (Map pp282-3; %217659; cnr Kenyatta Ave
K E N YA
K E N YA
The Hidden Agenda pub-restaurant (mains of several parts, none of which are called & Muindi Mbingu St; admission free) If you’re tired
Japanese KSh360 to KSh800) comes recommended, Gypsy’s! Identity crisis aside, it’s probably of having your butt pinched in darkened
Restaurant Akasaka (Map pp282-3; %220299; Stand- with Western and Thai menus. the most popular bar in Westlands, pulling discos, Simmers is the place to come to re-
ard St; mains KSh450-800; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10pm in Kenyans, expats and prostitutes. It’s as discover a bit of true African rhythm. The
Mon-Sat) A wonderful restaurant next to the DRINKING close as you’ll get to a gay-friendly venue atmosphere at this open-air bar-restaurant
Sixeighty Hotel. It’s always a little quiet, but Cafés in Kenya. is almost invariably amazing, with bands
this fits with the Japanese décor and the food Western café culture has hit Nairobi big Taco Bell (Map pp282-3; Tumaini House, 15 Moi Ave) playing anything from Congolese rumba
is very authentic. time, seized on enthusiastically by local ex- With an open balcony overlooking the street, to Kenyan benga.
Furusato Japanese Restaurant (Map p288; pats and residents pining for a decent cup this popular bar has DJs from Thursday to New Florida (Map pp282-3; %215014; Koinange St;
%4442508; Karuna Rd, Westlands; set meals KSh700-1500) of Kenyan coffee. Sunday. We suspect the Taco Bell Corpor- men/women KSh200/100; hto 6am, later Sat & Sun) The
Behind the Sarit Centre, this is a very styl- Nairobi Java House (Map pp282-3; %313565; www ation doesn’t know they’ve borrowed the ‘Mad House’ is a big, rowdy club housed in a
ish place with seductive set Japanese meals, .nairobijava.com; Mama Ngina St; snacks KSh80-180; name… bizarre blacked-out saucer building above a
including sushi, teppanyaki and tempura. h7am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) This fantastic coffee Green Corner Restaurant & Cactus Pub (Map petrol station. Whichever night you choose,
Reservations are recommended. house is rapidly turning itself into a major pp282-3; %335243; Tumaini House, Nkrumah Lane) This it’s usually mayhem, crammed with bruis-
brand, and afficionados say the coffee’s very popular after-work bar and restaurant ers, cruisers, hookers, hustlers and curious
International some of the best in Kenya. has live bands on Thursday and Sunday and tourists. Entry is usually free before 9pm.
Fiesta Restaurant & Bar (Map pp282-3; %240326; Kahawa (Map pp282-3; % 221900; zulmawani@ DJs the rest of the week. Florida 2000 (Map pp282-3; %229036; Moi Ave;
Koinange St; mains KSh450-1800; h7am-midnight) Des- ispnbi.com; Fedha Towers, Kaunda St; mains KSh190-410) Bar Code (Map p288; Westview Centre, Ring Rd West- men/women KSh200/100) The original blueprint
pite the Latin resonances, Fiesta concentrates The dhow-themed Kahawa offers an ever- lands, Westlands) It’s nowhere near as cool as it for the New Florida, this big dancing den
on upmarket international dishes, such as changing cavalcade of unexpected specials, thinks it is, but this very modern late-opening works to exactly the same formula.
nasi goreng and pork chops with a honey from frittata to a ‘Mexican breakfast’. lounge bar does at least have a good range Club Soundd (Map pp282-3; Kaunda St; admission free-
and mustard glaze. The popular bar area oc- Dormans Café (Map pp282-3; %0724-238976; Mama of drinks and semicompetent DJs. KSh200; hfrom 3pm) Another central nightspot
casionally hosts low-key live crooners. Ngina St; coffee KSh100-190) This venerable firm Klub House (Map p288; %749870; Parklands Rd, with a bit more to offer those who take their
Alan Bobbé’s Bistro (Map pp282-3; %226027; only recently branched out into the café Westlands) Further east, past the large Holi- music seriously.
Cianda House, Koinange St; mains KSh987-1850) The business, opening an outlet right opposite day Inn complex, the Klub House is an old Toona Tree Bar & Restaurant (Map pp280-1;
talented M Bobbé established this superb its main rival Nairobi Java House. favourite, with lots of pool tables. %3740802; [email protected]; International
French bistro in 1962, and Nairobi gourmets Casino, Museum Hill Rd) Part of the massive Inter-
have been worshipping at his culinary altar Bars ENTERTAINMENT national Casino complex, Toona Tree has
ever since. Reservations and smart dress are The cheap but rough bars around Latema and For information on all entertainment in live bands on Friday and Saturday, playing
encouraged, cigars and pipes are not. River Rds aren’t recommended for female Nairobi and for big music venues in the jazz, blues and ‘classic hits’.
Thorn Tree Café (Map pp282-3; %228030; New travellers, and even male drinkers should rest of the country, get hold of the Saturday
Stanley Hotel, Kimathi St; mains KSh350-1380) The watch themselves. There are some friendlier Nation, which lists everything from cinema Cinemas
Stanley’s legendary café still serves as a watering holes around Tom Mboya St and releases to live-music venues. There will also Nairobi is a good place to take in a few films
popular meeting place for travellers of all Moi Ave, and many restaurants and hotels be plenty of suggestions run by the magazine at a substantially lower price than back home.
persuasions, and caters to most tastes with are fine places for a drink. You can also head Going Out. The best deals are available on Tuesday.
a good mix of food. to Westlands, where the drinking scene at- Nu Metro Cinema (%522128; numetro@swiftkenya
Tamarind Restaurant (Map pp282-3; %251811; tracts in a lot more expats. Nightclubs .com; Village Market, Gigiri; tickets KSh350) The first
Aga Khan Walk; mains KSh900-1800; h2.30-4.30pm & Even in cosmopolitan Nairobi, foreign There’s a good selection of dance clubs in entry in a chain of modern multiplexes
8.30pm-midnight) Nairobi’s best seafood restaur- women without a man in tow will draw at- the centre of Nairobi and there are no dress springing up around Nairobi, showing new
ant, laid out in a sumptuous modern Arabic- tention virtually everywhere. To avoid this, codes, although there’s an unspoken as- Western films fairly promptly after their
Moorish style. Smart dress is expected, and head for the outer suburbs (see p298). sumption that males will at least wear a shirt international release.
292 N A I R O B I • • S h o p p i n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N A I R O B I • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 293
Fox Cineplex (Map p288; %227959; Sarit Centre, with goods displayed the way they might (Map pp282-3; %217592; cnr Latema & Lagos Rds) buses Other companies are located on the sur-
Westlands) A good modern cinema in the same look in Western living rooms, but there’s are the most comfortable. rounding streets. Head to the main bus and
price bracket as Nu Metro, located on the some classy stuff on offer, including carpets, Akamba (Map pp282-3; %340430; akamba_prs@ matatu station on Accra Rd (Map pp282–3)
2nd floor of the Sarit Centre. wall hangings, ceramics, wooden bowls, skyweb.co.ke; Lagos Rd) is the biggest private bus for matatus to Chogoria (KSh250, 2½
20th Century Cinema (Map pp282-3; %210606; baskets and clothing. company in the country, with an exten- hours), Embu (KSh200, 1½ hours), Meru
20th Century Plaza, Mama Ngina St), Kenya Cinema (Map Maasai Market (Map pp282-3; hTue) Busy, pop- sive, reliable network. Buses serve Eldoret, (KSh300 to KSh350, three hours) and Nany-
pp282-3; %227822; Kenya Cinema Plaza, Moi Ave) and ular Maasai markets are held every Tuesday Kakamega, Kericho, Kisii, Kisumu, Kitale, uki (KSh200, 2½ hours). Matatus leave from
Nairobi Cinema (Map pp282-3; %338058; Uchumi on the waste ground near Slip Rd in town. Mombasa, Uganda and Tanzania, leaving Latema Rd for Nyahururu (KSh300, three
House, Aga Khan Walk) are all owned by the same Village Market (%522488; Limuru Rd, Gigiri) This from Lagos Rd; there’s a booking office (Map hours) and Nyeri (KSh200, two hours).
chain. The first two show mainly Western beautifully conceived shopping centre also pp282-3; %222027; Wabera St) near City Hall. There are loads of matatus to Naivasha
movies, while the Nairobi Cinema often has a selection of entertainment activities The government-owned Kenya Bus Service (KSh130, 1½ hours) and the Tanzanian bor-
screens Christian ‘message’ films. to while away an afternoon. You can get (KBS; %229707) is another large operator. It’s der at Namanga (KSh250, three hours) from
here with matatu 106 (KSh40) from near cheaper than Akamba, but the buses are the corner of Ronald Ngala St and River
Theatre the train station. much slower. The main depot is on Uyoma Rd (Map pp282–3). For Thika (KSh70, 40
K E N YA
K E N YA
Professional Centre (Map pp282-3; %225506; www St, and there’s a booking office (Map pp282-3; minutes), go to the Total petrol station on
.phoenixplayers.net; Parliament Rd) Local theatre GETTING THERE & AWAY %341250; cnr Muindi Mbingu & Monrovia Sts) in the Racecourse Rd (Map pp280–1).
troupe the Phoenix Players perform regularly Air city centre.
here. Tickets cost KSh650, though strictly it The national carrier Kenya Airways (Map pp280-1; Easy Coach (Map pp282-3; %210711; easycoach@ Train
should be US$20 for nonresidents. %32074100; Barclays Plaza, Loita St) operates inter- wananchi.com; Haile Selassie Ave) is a reliable new Nairobi train station has a booking office
Kenya National Theatre (Map pp280-1; %225174; national and domestic services out of Jomo company serving western Kenyan destina- (% 221211; Station Rd; h 9am-noon & 2-6.30pm).
Harry Thuku Rd; tickets from KSh200) This is the major Kenyatta International Airport. Fares come tions on the Kisumu/Kakamega route. Only two useful passenger services currently
theatre venue in Nairobi, staging contempor- down rapidly if you can book more than The Country Bus Station (Map pp280-1; Landhies Rd) run from Nairobi (see p456). For Mom-
ary and classic plays and special events. a week in advance; if not, it’s best to go is a disorganised place with buses running to basa (KSh3160/2275 in 1st/2nd class, 14 to
For African theatre, the foreign cultural cen- through a travel agent. Busia, Eldoret, Kakamega, Kisumu, Malaba, 16 hours), trains leave Nairobi at 7pm on
tres (p279) are often the places to head for. Airkenya (%501601; Wilson Airport, Langata Rd) Meru, Nakuru, Nanyuki and Nyeri. Monday, Wednesday and Friday. The return
and Safarilink (%600777; Wilson Airport) offer do- See p451 for details on other bus com- services depart at 7pm on Tuesday, Thursday
SHOPPING mestic services to many smaller destinations panies operating out of Nairobi. Typical and Sunday.
Nairobi is a good place to pick up souvenirs, at competitive prices. fares: For Kisumu (KSh1415/720 in 1st/2nd
but prices are typically higher than else- One-way fares: class, 13 hours), trains depart at 6.30pm on
where in the country. Visit the ‘Little India’ Destination Fare (KSh) Duration (hr) the same days as the Mombasa services. It’s
area around Biashara St for fabric, textiles Destination Fare Frequency (daily) advisable to book a few days in advance for
and those all-important souvenir Tusker Eldoret 350-500 3 either of these routes.
T-shirts. If you’re interested in buying local Amboseli US$85 2 Kakamega 400-500 5
music, wander round the River and Latema Eldoret KSh5700 1 Kisii 350-550 4 GETTING AROUND
Rds area and listen out for the blaring CD Kisumu from KSh5605 1 Kisumu 400-550 4 To/From Jomo Kenyatta International
kiosks. Lamu from US$135 3 Kitale 400-600 5 Airport
City Market (Map pp282-3; Muindi Mbingu St) The Malindi from US$85 2 Malindi 800 9-10 Kenya’s principal international airport
city’s souvenir business is concentrated in Masai Mara US$105 3 Meru 250-350 3 (%825400) is 15km out of the city centre.
this covered market, which has dozens of Mombasa from KSh6835 6 Mombasa 500-1000 6-10 There’s now a dedicated airport bus run by
stalls selling woodcarvings, drums, spears, Nanyuki US$60-80 2 Naivasha 130 1-1½ Metro Shuttle (part of KBS), which can drop
shields, soapstone, Maasai jewellery and Samburu from US$115 3 Nakuru 200-300 2 you off at hotels in the city centre. Going the
clothing. It’s an interesting place to wan- Nanyuki 200 2 other way, the main departure point is across
der round, though you generally need to be The check-in time for all domestic flights is Nyeri 200 1½ from the Hilton Hotel (Map pp282–3). The
shopping to make the constant hassle worth one hour before departure, and the baggage journey takes about 40 minutes and costs
the bother. allowance is only 15kg. Make sure you recon- Matatu US$5 per person. Buses run every half-hour
Gallery Watatu (Map pp282-3; %228737; Lonhro firm flights 72 hours before departure. Most matatus leave from Latema, Accra, from 8am to 8.30pm daily and stop at both
House, Standard St) If you want fine Kenyan art, River and Cross Rds, and fares are similar air terminals.
check out what’s happening here prior to Bus to the buses. The biggest operator here is A cheaper way to get into Nairobi is city
investing your hard-earned cash. Be pre- Most long-distance bus-company offices in Crossland Services (Map pp282-3; %245377; Cross Rd), bus 34 (KSh30), but a lot of travellers get
pared to part with at least KSh20,000 just Nairobi are in the River Rd area. Numerous which serves destinations including Eldoret ripped off on this bus or when they step off
for something small. companies do the run to Mombasa, leaving (KSh350, three hours), Kericho (KSh450, in the city centre. Buses run from 5.45am
Spinners Web (Map p288; %4440882; Viking House, in the early morning or late in the evening; three hours), Kisii (KSh500, five hours), to 9.30pm Monday to Friday, 6.20am to
Waiyaki Way, Westlands) Works with workshops the trip takes eight to 10 hours. Buses leave Kisumu (KSh550, four hours), Naivasha 9.30pm on Saturday and 7.15am to 9.30pm
and self-help groups around the country. from outside each company’s office, and (KSh150, one hour), Nakuru (KSh250, two on Sunday. Heading to the airport, buses
It’s a bit like a handicrafts version of Ikea, fares cost KSh400 to KSh700. Coastline Safaris hours) and Nanyuki (KSh250, two hours). pass along Kenyatta Ave.
ὈὈ
294 A R O U N D N A I R O B I • • N a i r o b i ’ s S o u t h e r n O u t s k i r t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D N A I R O B I • • N a i r o b i ’ s S o u t h e r n O u t s k i r t s 295
Around Nairobi
A much safer method (and your only Taxi AROUND NAIROBI 0
0
20 km
10 miles
option at night) is to take a taxi. The ask- As people are compelled to use taxis due To Naivasha (45km); To Thika (2km);
A3
ing price is usually about KSh1200 in either to Nairobi’s endemic street crime, they Nakuru (108km) C65 Embu (75km)
direction, but you should be able to bargain are overpriced and undermaintained, but
To Kangonde
down to KSh800 from the city centre, or you’ve little choice, particularly at night. Limuru
Tugoni
(45km);
Garissa
even as little as KSh500 from the domestic Taxis park on every other street corner in A104
Ol Donyo (285km)
Ruiru
terminal. the city centre, and outside restaurants, bars Sabuk NP
Kyanzavi
and nightclubs at night. Kiambu A2
To/From Wilson Airport Fares are negotiable but end up pretty River
ὈὈ
C64 Nairobi
To get to Wilson Airport (Map p296; %501941), for standard. Any journey within the central er
Riv
Airkenya and Safarilink services or charter Nairobi area costs KSh200, from the city Kangemi
flights, take bus or matatu 15, 31, 34, 125 or centre to Milimani Rd costs KSh300, and NAIROBI C98 hi Tala
At
126 from Moi Ave (KSh20). A taxi from the for longer journeys, such as Westlands, fares Eastleigh
Jomo Kenyatta
city centre will cost you KSh600 to KSh800 cost KSh400 to KSh500.
K E N YA
K E N YA
International
Airport
depending on the driver. In the other direc- Karen
tion, you’ll have to fight the driver down
AROUND NAIROBI
Ngong
from KSh1000. Nairobi NP
Mitaboni
C58
Bus There are a number of interesting attrac- Marimboti C99
The ordinary city buses are run by KBS tions within an hour’s drive or matatu ride Kiserian
(%229707), but hopefully you won’t need to from Nairobi; Nairobi National Park starts Athi River
Ngelani
use them much. Most buses pass through right on the edge of town. Further afield are A109
To Kitui
central Nairobi, but the main KBS terminus the Ngong Hills and the mysterious Lake (88km)
Whistling A104 Machakos
is on Uyoma St, east of the centre. Magadi, one of Kenya’s many soda lakes. Thorns C97
Useful services include bus 46 from Ken- To Olorgasailie (25km);
Magadi (70km)
yatta Ave for the Yaya Centre in Hurling- NAIROBI’S SOUTHERN OUTSKIRTS To Namanga (92km);
Tanzania (94km); To
ham (KSh10), and bus 23 from Jevanjee Sights Amboseli National Mombasa
(402km)
Park (167km) C99
Gardens for Westlands (KSh10). There are BOMAS OF KENYA
services about every 20 minutes from 6am The Bomas of Kenya (Map p296; %891801; Lan-
to 8pm Monday to Saturday. There’s also a gata Rd; nonresident adult/child KSh600/300, resident in Africa and adds an intriguing twist to the boardwalk with lots of birds and other wild-
useful Metro Shuttle service from Moi Ave KSh100/25) is a cultural centre at Langata, near usual safari experience, pitting the plentiful life, including a pygmy hippo and a white
to Ngong Rd and Karen, passing the Karen the main gate to Nairobi National Park. wildlife against a backdrop of looming sky- rhino. The nearby Animal Orphanage (Map
Blixen Museum. The talented resident artistes perform trad- scrapers, speeding matatus and jets coming p296) charges the same rates, but it’s basic-
All these services cost KSh20 to KSh40, itional dances and songs from the country’s into land. As the animals seem utterly un- ally a rather poor zoo.
depending on where you get off. 16 tribal groups, including Swahili taarab perturbed by all the activity around them, The cheapest way to see the park is with
music (combining African, Arabic and In- you stand a good chance of seeing gazelles, the ‘Park Shuttle,’ a big KWS bus that leaves
Car dian influences), Kalenjin warrior dances, warthogs, zebras, giraffes, ostriches, buf- the main gate at 3pm Sunday for a 2½-
See p452 for information on car hire, road Embu drumming and Kikuyu circumcision faloes, lions, cheetahs and leopards. The hour tour of the park. The cost is US$20/5
rules and conditions. If you are driving, be- ceremonies. It’s touristy, of course, but it’s landscape is a mixture of savanna and per adult/child and you’ll need to book in
ware of wheel-clampers: parking in the city still a spectacular afternoon out. Perform- swampland, and is home to the highest person at the main gate by 2.30pm. Matatus
centre is by permit only (KSh70 per day). If ances are held at 2.30pm Monday to Friday, concentration of black rhinos in the world 125 and 126 pass the park entrance (KSh40,
you park overnight in the street in front of and 3.30pm Saturday and Sunday. Bus or (over 50). The wetland areas sustain over 45 minutes).
your hotel, the guard will often keep an eye matatu 125 or 126 runs here from Nairobi 550 recorded species of bird, more than in The main entrance to the park is on
on your vehicle for a small consideration. train station (KSh30, 30 minutes). the whole of the UK! Langata Rd, but there are also public gates
Nairobi National Park is not fenced and on Magadi Rd. The Cheetah Gate at the
Matatu NAIROBI NATIONAL PARK wildlife is still able to migrate along a nar- far (Athi River) end of the park is handy
Nairobi’s horde of matatus follow the same This somewhat underrated park (Map p296; non- row wildlife corridor to the Rift Valley. The if you’re continuing on to Mombasa, Am-
routes as buses and display the same route resident adult/child US$23/10, smartcard required) is the concentrations of wildlife are higher in the boseli or the Tanzanian border.
numbers. For Westlands, you can pick most accessible of all Kenya’s wildlife parks, dry season, as water is almost always avail-
up matatu 23 on Moi Ave or Latema Rd. being only a few kilometres from the city able in the park. BUTTERFLY AFRICA
Matatu 46 to the Yaya Centre stops in front centre. It’s possible to visit as part of a tour The headquarters of the KWS (Map p296; This butterfly sanctuary (Map p298; %884972;
of the main post office, and matatus 125 or even by public transport, as the park runs %600800; www.kws.org) are at the main gate. www.african-butterfly.org; 256 Dagoretti Rd; nonresident
and 126 to Langata leave from in front of its own wildlife bus (Sunday only). Nearby is the Nairobi Safari Walk (Map p296; adult/child KSh400/200, resident KSh200/100; h9am-
the train station. As usual, you should keep Founded in 1946, the park’s incongruous nonresident adult/child US$8/5, resident KSh500/100; 4.30pm) is housed in a large greenhouse full
an eye on your valuables on all matatus. suburban location makes it virtually unique h8.30am-5.30pm), a sort of zoo-meets-nature of tropical plants. There are around 1000
296 A R O U N D N A I R O B I • • N a i r o b i N a t i o n a l Pa r k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D N A I R O B I • • N a i r o b i ’ s S o u t h e r n O u t s k i r t s 297
Nairobi National Park
To Namanga (138km);
exotic butterflies fluttering around the place 18km from central Nairobi, reached by Lan-
To Mombasa
(460km)
3 miles
5 km
Amboseli (218km)
at any one time, with some interesting dis- gata South Rd. Here you can observe, hand-
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
play boards to help identify them. It’s out feed or even kiss Rothschild’s giraffes from
A109
past the Karen roundabout on Dagoretti Rd; a raised circular wooden structure, which is
you can get here from Moi Ave on the 111 quite an experience, especially for children.
F
bus or matatu. To get here from central Nairobi, take
Cheetah
A104
gate
Marimboti
matatu 24 to the Hardy shops in Langata
KAREN BLIXEN MUSEUM and walk from there, or take matatu 126 to
International Airport
This museum (Map p298; %882779; www.blixencoffee Magadi Rd and walk from Mukoma Rd.
Molongo
Athi River
Jomo Kenyatta
garden.co.ke; Karen Rd; nonresident adult/child KSh200/
100, resident KSh50/20; h9.30am-6pm) is the farm- AFRICAN HERITAGE HOUSE
house where Karen Blixen, author of Out of Designed by Alan Donovan, an African heri-
2
Africa, lived between 1914 and 1931. She left tage expert and gallery owner, this stun-
0
0
A104
after a series of personal tragedies, but the ning exhibition house (Map p296; %0721-518389;
K E N YA
K E N YA
E
Rd
lovely colonial house has been preserved as www.africanheritagebook.com) off Mombasa Rd,
Embakasi
h
ut
Village
So
or
t
rp a museum. It was presented to the Kenyan overlooking Nairobi National Park, can be
Ai Rd
government at independence by the Danish visited by prior arrangement only. The mud
sa
ba
government along with the adjacent agri- architecture combines a range of traditional
om
Rd
M
Ri
ng cultural college. It’s set in lovely gardens styles from across Africa, and the interior
B10
Athi Basin
O
ute and is quite an interesting place to wander is furnished exclusively with tribal artefacts
Hippo
Pool
Pl
ai
n around, plus there’s accommocation and a and artworks. For those with the money, it’s
i
k as restaurant on site. possible to negotiate overnight stays (single/
Point Lookout
ba
Em The museum is about 2km from Langata double US$125/250), meals (US$25 to
D
Hippo
r
Entrance
Rd. The easiest way to get here is via the US$30), and steam-train or even helicopter
Rive
Private
Gorge
Karen Metro Shuttle bus from City Hall Way transfers.
gate
East
Sosian
Ath
(KSh20, 40 minutes). A taxi will cost about
To Nairobi
Leopard
KSh900 one way. You can also come on an NGONG HILLS
Cliff
e
idg org
e organised tour. The green and fertile Ngong Hills were
eR
ddl ye ti G
Mi oko
M where many white settlers set up farms in
DAVID SHELDRICK WILDLIFE TRUST the early colonial days. It’s still something
Occupying a plot within Nairobi National of an expat enclave, and here and there in
rge
Quarters
Go
Park, this nonprofit conservation trust (Map the hills are perfect reproductions of Eng-
8
Staff
C
A104
p296; %891996; www.sheldrickwildlifetrust.org) was lish farmhouses with country gardens full
i
ath
er
Simba Saloon...........................(see 10)
Nairobi Park Services....................9 A2
established shortly after the death of David of flowering trees – only the acacias remind
Carnivore....................................10 B1
Riv
ag
To Nairobi
Mb
ge
Sheldrick in 1977. David and his wife Daphne you that you aren’t rambling around the
nye
id
sR
Orm a
as
teG
r pioneered techniques of raising orphaned Home Counties of England.
hi
W
lle
y black rhinos and elephants and reintroduc- Close to Point Lamwia, the summit of the
Masai
Va
gate
on ing them back into the wild. Rhinos and range, is the grave of Denys George Finch-
Olomanyi
Li
Python Pool
Dam
elephants are still reared on site and can be Hatton, the famous playboy and lover of
ver
viewed between 11am and noon. There’s no Karen Blixen. A large obelisk east of the
Airport
Wilson
Ri
River
DRINKING
SLEEPING
charge for visiting, but a donation of around summit on the lower ridges marks his grave,
NAIROBI NATIONAL PARK
EATING
Nairobi
B
Dam
KSh300 per person is appropriate. There’s inscribed with The Rime of the Ancient Mari-
Warden's House
Narogoman
e
yeti
emb
Uhuru Gardens
an information centre and usually someone ner. The hills still contain plenty of wildlife,
C58
Dam
7
Moko
Kis
KWS Headquarters.......................1 A1
A1
A1
A3
A1
C1
River
around to answer questions. and there are legends about a lion and lioness
B1
E3
Valley
Shopping
Langata
Centre
African Heritage House................2
Animal Orphanage.......................3
Bomas of Kenya...........................4
David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust.......5
Nairobi Safari Walk.......................6
Nairobi Sailing & Sub Aqua Club...7
Somak Travel...............................8
From Moi Ave, take bus or matatu 125 or standing guard at Finch-Hatton’s graveside.
10
Entrance &
ax
Main Gate
126 and ask to be dropped off at the KWS The hills provide some excellent walking,
Picnic
Hyr
athi
ὈὈ
Area
Rd
Burning Site
Lookout
central workshop, on Magadi Rd (KSh40, 50 but robbery has been a risk in the past, so
Mbag
Lion Corner
a
gat
Ivory
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
minutes). It’s about 1km from the workshop consult locals for the latest information. If
Lan
1
gate to the Sheldrick centre. you’re worried, take an organised tour or
6
INFORMATION
3
5
Mbagathi
pick up an escort from the Ngong police
gate
Langata
Map (p298)
See Karen & Langata
A
gate
Ngong Road
station or KWS office.
C58
LANGATA GIRAFFE CENTRE
4
Forest
The giraffe centre (Map p298; %890952; Koitobos
d
If you prefer a flutter to a stroll, join the
i R
Banda
gate
To Ngong
To Magadi
agad
Rd; nonresident adult/child KSh500/250, resident 100/20; Sunday crowds at the Ngong Hills Racecourse
C63
(104km)
(28km)
M
9
h9am-5.30pm), operated by the African Fund (Map p298; %573923; [email protected]; Ngong Rd),
2
3
1
for Endangered Wildlife (AFEW), is about just east of Karen. The public enclosure is
298 A R O U N D N A I R O B I • • N a i r o b i ’ s S o u t h e r n O u t s k i r t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N A I R O B I T O T H E C OA S T 299
Karen & Langata
KAREN & LANGATA 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
in Nairobi. Reservations are mandatory for chicken and farmed game meats, such as A causeway leads across the most visually
most places here, as you’re rarely permitted camel, ostrich and crocodile. As long as the dramatic part of this strange landscape to a
A B just to walk in off the street. paper flag on your table is flying, waiters viewpoint on the western shore. It’s worth a
Giraffe Manor (Map p298; %891078; www.giraffe will keep bringing the meat, which is carved drive if you have a 4WD; otherwise you can
manor.com; Mukoma Rd; full board s/d US$385/595) Built right at the table. Note that a hefty 26% tax head to the hot springs further south. They
1 in 1932 in the style of a typical English coun- and service charge is added to the bill. It’s aren’t particularly dramatic, but you can take
INFORMATION SLEEPING
try manor, this elegant house is situated on off Langata Rd. a dip in the deeper pools, and there are large
Language Center Ltd...1 B3 Giraffe Manor...........(see 4) 56 hectares next to the giraffe centre. You Simba Saloon (Map p296; %501706; admission numbers of fish that have adapted to survive
Let’s Go Travel..........(see 9) Karen Camp................7 A3
dine as the personal guests of the owners, KSh200-300; hWed-Sun) This popular bar is right in the hot water.
ὈὈὈὈ
Ngong House..............8 B4
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES and Rothschild’s giraffes may peer through next door, usually rammed with wealthy The hot, dry climate and sparse scrubland
Butterfly Africa............ 2 A3 EATING
Karen Blixen Museum.. 3 A4 Horseman....................9 A3
your window in the morning. Kenyans, expat teenagers, travellers and make the area unsuitable for most human
Langata Giraffe Centre..4 B4 Rusty Nail..................10 A3 Ngong House (Map p298; %891856; ngonghouse@ NGO workers, plus a fair sprinkling of pros- activity, and the only settlement of any size
Ngong Hills Racecourse..5 B3 Talisman....................11 A3
Southern Cross Safaris.. 6 A4 form-net.com; Ndovo Rd; s/d US$450/600) Also a short titutes. At lunchtime, you can get here with is Magadi town, built by the multinational
walk from the giraffe centre, this is an al- matatu 126 from central Nairobi; the turn- ICI as a company town for staff working at
K E N YA
K E N YA
Na DRINKING
i Outside Inn...............12 A3
2 together different sort of hotel. The four off is signposted just past Wilson Airport. the massive soda factory (now run by the
vas
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
h
luxurious tree houses are set on stilts, with At night, you’re best off hiring a taxi for the Magadi Soda Co). Facilities are very limited,
a Rd
d
Kik es R
u y u Rd m ru
Ja ichu fine views out across the Ngong Hills. Rates return trip. Including waiting the fare should but you will find a couple of small bars,
G
Dagoretti
Corner
To Nairobi
include transfers, all meals and drinks, and be about KSh1200, or KSh650 one way. restaurants and shops.
(10km) a number of excursions are provided. Talisman (Map p298; %883213; 320 Ngong Rd; mains
Ngong 1
Mutuini Rd
Karen Camp (Map p298; %883475; www.karencamp KSh500-900; hfrom 9am Tue-Sun) This classy new Sights
2
Ngon
g Rd Impala Club .com; Marula La; camping/dm/r US$3/5/20) A new café-bar-restaurant is incredibly fashionable A number of important archaeological finds
ὈὈ
5
venture aiming to draw the budget crowd right now, and rivals any of Kenya’s top were made at Olorgasailie Prehistoric Site, lo-
See Nairobi National Park Map (p296)
C60
Da Rd
Karen
go
To Ngong (7km); out into the suburbs. The quiet location eateries for imaginative international food. cated 40km north of Magadi, in the 1940s,
re
Ngong
tti
Magadi (102km) Road
3 10 Forest and smart facilities are already attracting The comfortable loungelike rooms mix including hand axes and stone tools thought
11 Karen
Roundabout travellers. modern African and European styles, and to have been made by Homo erectus. Fossils
9 12
To Nairobi Nairobi Park Services (Map p296; %890325; nps@ the courtyard provides some welcome air. have also been discovered and some have
Karen Rd
7 (10km)
C63
swiftkenya.com; Magadi Rd; camping US$3, dm/d/tr US$6/ Rusty Nail (Map p298; %882461; rustynail@wananchi been left in place. A guided tour (KSh200)
Langata
15/18) You’ll find this in a quiet residential .com; Dagoretti Rd; mains KSh450-900) The Moroccan/ is available.
Mbagathi
ὈὈ
Rd
6 area on the edge of Nairobi National Park, Turkish styling of this pavillion restaurant
Langat
Langata
3
Rid
ge set in a garden with a great bar and restaur- belies the range of food on offer; menus Sleeping
a
Bogani Rd Nairobi ant. The vehicle work bays make it a good change weekly, offering anything from fela- Magadi is best visited from Nairobi or the
South Rd
Ka
NP
M
pit stop for overland trucks and self-drivers. fel and steak to coronation chicken. Ngong Hills; Kiserian is convenient. Camp-
nd
ba
ga C58
is
4 th Ushirika Rd
i
Hardy
Hardy
Shops
8 To get here, take bus or matatu 125 or 126 Horseman (Map p298; %884560; Karen shopping ing is probably the best option in Magadi
Ri
ve
r Koitobos Rd Mukoma from near the train station; the entrance is centre, Langata Rd; mains KSh300-500, game meat KSh680- itself. There’s no shortage of space; ask at the
Magad
4 Rd
Riv
er
Banda opposite the Langata Gate. 1000) Three restaurants in one, set in a leafy roadblock for the best spot.
To Kiserian (12km);
Whistling Thorns (%072 721933; www.whistling patio garden straight out of rural England, Camp site (camping KSh200, bandas s/d KSh500/800)
i Rd
Magadi (91km)
thorns.com; Isinya/Kiserian Pipeline Rd; camping KSh250, with a surprisingly authentic pub to match. This camp site at Olorgasailie is not a bad
with tent KSh450, d cottage per person KSh2500-3500; s) Outside Inn (Map p298; %882110; Plains House, place to stay for the night. You’ll need your
free; entry to the grandstand is KSh100, or Near Kiserian, this is an excellent place to Karen Rd) Perfect for a bit of rowdy drinkage, own food, bedding and drinking water.
you can pay KSh250 for a platinum pass, stay in the Maasai foothills of the Ngong this semi-open barn of a bar is a firm fa-
which gives you access to the members’ Hills. To get here, take bus or matatu 111 vourite with residents for its relaxed, boozy Getting There & Away
seating and the restaurant overlooking the or 126 from Moi Ave to Kiserian (KSh50, atmosphere. The C58 road from Nairobi is in good con-
course. There are usually three races every one hour) and change to a Isinya/Kajiado dition. Akamba no longer runs services here
month during the racing season, which runs matatu. LAKE MAGADI and there seems to be only one matatu a day
from October to July. You can get here on Lake Magadi is the most southerly of the Rift to Nairobi (KSh200), leaving in the morning
the Karen Metro Shuttle bus (KSh40, 30 Eating & Drinking Valley lakes in Kenya, about 110km from and returning to Magadi in the evening.
minutes) and matatus 24 or 111 (KSh20) Carnivore (Map p296; %605933; set meals KSh1325) Nairobi, and is rarely visited by tourists be-
from Haile Selassie Ave.
Sleeping
Owned by the Tamarind chain, this is hands
down the most famous nyama choma restaur-
ant in Kenya, beloved of tourists, expats and
cause of its perceived remoteness, although
it actually makes an easy day trip from Nai-
robi if you have your own transport. The
NAIROBI TO THE COAST
As you might expect, Karen and Langata wealthier locals alike for the last 25 years. most mineral-rich of the soda lakes, it is al- The main A109 road between Nairobi and
have some rather exclusive accommodation Just to reinforce the point, it has twice been most entirely covered by a thick encrustation Mombasa provides access to a variety of
options tucked away amid their leafy lanes, voted among the 50 best restaurants in the of soda that supports many flamingos and national parks and nature reserves, most
and if you want to splash out for something world. At the entrance is a huge barbecue pit other water birds, and gives the landscape a importantly Tsavo National Park, Kenya’s
special you’re certainly better off here than laden with real swords of beef, pork, lamb, weird lunar appearance. largest. There are also some interesting
ὈὈὈὈ
300 N A I R O B I T O T H E C OA S T • • A m b o s e l i N a t i o n a l Pa r k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N A I R O B I T O T H E C OA S T • • A m b o s e l i N a t i o n a l Pa r k 301
Nairobi to the Coast
NAIROBI TO THE COAST 0
0
50 km
30 miles
Buffaloes, lions, gazelles, cheetahs, wilde- and there’s a huge organic vegetable gar-
beests, hyenas, jackals, warthogs, zebras, den. Prices include transfers, guided walks,
To Limuru NAIROBI To Kangonde (40km)
ὈὈὈὈ
(15km) Masai giraffes and baboons are all present, cultural visits, laundry and most drinks, but
Ngong
Kitui
but the last few black rhinos were moved to not park fees or fancy wine.
Makutano
Kiserian
Tsavo West in 1995 after a sustained period Ol Tukai Lodge (% 020-4445514; oltukai@mit
Oltepesi
Athi River Myondoni
of poaching. In the permanent swamps of suminet.com; full board s/d low season US$114/143, high
Olorgasailie Machakos Enkongo Narok and Olokenya, large ele- season US$176/220; s) A splendid lodge with
Ath
Prehistoric Site B7
phant herds can be seen grazing with Mt soaring makuti (thatched palm leaved) roofs
iR
iver
To Magadi (10km)
Kilimanjaro in the background, probably and tranquil shaded gardens. The split-level
ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ
Isinya
Kajiado Salama
the definitive Kenyan wildlife shot. bar has wonderful views, and the overall
Mutomo Erosion and grass die-off is having a dra- atmosphere is of peace and luxury. Two of
A109
matic effect at Amboseli, and it’s only a mat- the cottages have wheelchair access.
Emali
ter of years before the lack of food makes the Amboseli Serena Lodge (%020-2710511; www
animals move on. It’s important for vehicles
K E N YA
.serenahotels.com; full board s/d low season US$80/160,
K E N YA
Bissel B7
to stick to the defined tracks, so that the high season US$210/260; s) A posh Serena hotel
Ki
bo
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ko
Kiboko
A104
Makindu grasslands that drew all these animals here in junglelike gardens near the southern
Ri
ver
Kibwezi in the first place can be preserved. perimeter of the park. The low red adobe-
Chyulu style cottages make a change from the usual
Namanga Hills NP
Makutano Sleeping makuti, the very stylish lobby bar makes
Ath
Lake Amboseli
Amboseli NP
Tsavo East Tortilis Camp (%020-604053; www.chelipeacock.com; great use of hanging gourds, and the nearby
i
Ol Tukai NP
Rive
Mtito Andei full board s/d low season US$340/520, high season US$400/ Enkongo Narok swamp ensures constant
r
C103
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὄὄὄὄ
Kimana
Wildlife 640) This wonderfully conceived site is one bird and animal activity.
Sanctuary
of the most exclusive ecolodges in Kenya, Amboseli Lodge (%045-622440; low season s/d/tr
Loitokitok
Tsav commanding a superb spot with perfect US$70/90/122, full board high season s/d US$117/180; s)
o Riv Tsavo
TANZANIA er Galana (Sabaki)
Kilimanjaro vistas. Food is cooked without This lodge consists of a number of com-
Manyani
Tsavo West
C103 using firewood, solar power heats the water fortable wooden cabins dotted around an
To Malindi
NP (110km)
Lake 0 5 km
AMBOSELI NATIONAL PARK
ὈὈ ὄὄὄὄ
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Arusha Moshi Challa 0 3 miles
A23 Holili
Taveta
Murka Maktau Wundanyi Voi
To Serengeti
National Park A23 Meshanani
A109 E396
(175km) Gate
B1 Maungu
Lake
Mwanga Jipe Taita Hills Mwanatibu
Game Reserve C103
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὄὄὄὄ Dr
To To Emali
y
To Namanga (96km)
Mombasa (75km)
Bungule (125km)
W
To Dar es Salaam
ea
th
(390km)
er
E397
O
nl
y
Lake Amboseli
community-run nature projects in the park to a national reserve. Supporters claim
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
(Dry except in
extended wet season)
area. The African townships of Voi and that the move rightfully returns control of C103
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὄὄὄὄ
Eremito
Wundanyi are worth a detour on your way the land to the Maasai community, but
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Gate
Lake
down the coast. many conservation bodies have argued that To Namanga Sinet Kioko
(71km via 4WD in Airstrip
it’s simply a political move aimed at secur-
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Dry Weather Only) Ri
ve
AMBOSELI NATIONAL PARK ing the Maasai vote. r
ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅ
Sinet
The most popular park in Kenya after the At 392 sq km, Amboseli is a small park Delta Enkongo
Ol Tukai
Masai Mara is Amboseli (%045-622251; nonresi- and lacks the profusion of animal species Observation
Narok
Amboseli
ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅ
Lodge
dent adult/child US$30/10, smartcard required), mainly found in the Masai Mara, but as the land- Iimbireshari
Hill
Hill Ol Tukai
Lodge
Olokenya
because of the spectacular backdrop of Af- scape provides limited cover you have a good Kitirua Tortilis (1160m)
Swamp Olodo Are
ὅὅ
Gate Kitirua Camp
rica’s highest peak, Mt Kilimanjaro, which chance of seeing some of the larger preda- To Kimana Wildlife
Sanctuary (30km);
broods over the southern boundary of the tors. The vegetation here used to be much Amboseli
Serena Lodge
Loitokitok (50km);
Tsavo West (94km)
C103
park. Cloud cover can render the mountain’s denser, but rising salinisation, damage by
massive bulk invisible for much of the day. elephants and irresponsible behaviour by Kimana
Gate
The park has been at the centre of some safari vehicles has caused terrible erosion.
controversy since President Kibaki’s 2005 Amboseli can turn into a real dust bowl in Amboseli Park
Headquarters
decision to downgrade it from a national the dry season.
Amboseli National Park
302 N A I R O B I T O T H E C OA S T • • A r o u n d A m b o s e l i N a t i o n a l Pa r k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N A I R O B I T O T H E C OA S T • • C h y u l u H i l l s N a t i o n a l Pa r k 303
expansive lawn and garden with sweeping is open 24 hours and the two posts are close border, or the even more diabolical road TSAVO NATIONAL PARK
Kili views. Quite a few tour groups drop enough to walk across. between Amboseli and Tsavo West. There’s At nearly 22,000 sq km, Tsavo is the larg-
in for lunch. Numerous Maasai women come here to officially no need to join the Tsavo convoy if est national park in Kenya, divided admin-
sell bead jewellery and other Maasai crafts, you’re coming here from Amboseli, but the istratively into Tsavo West National Park
Getting There & Away and seem to materialise like magic around area south of the sanctuary has a reputation (9000 sq km) and Tsavo East National Park
AIR tourist vehicles, especially at the petrol sta- for banditry. (11,747 sq km). Both parks feature some
Airkenya has daily flights between Wilson tions. There’s great stuff on offer, but you’ll excellent scenery but the undergrowth is
Airport in Nairobi and Amboseli (US$88, have to haggle like a pro to get a bargain. CHYULU HILLS NATIONAL PARK considerably higher than in Amboseli or
one hour), departing from Nairobi at 7.30am. Namanga River Hotel (%5132070; namangariver Northwest of Tsavo West National Park are Masai Mara, so it takes a little more effort to
The return flight leaves Amboseli at 8.30am. [email protected]; camping KSh300, s/d KSh1550/2300) is the dramatic Chyulu Hills (adult/child US$15/5), a spot the wildlife. The compensation for this
Mombasa Air Safari flies here from Mom- a poshish affair with nice cottages, a good collection of ancient volcanic cinder cones. is that the landscapes are some of the most
basa and Diani (US$220, one hour). restaurant and bar, and a shady camping The hills were gazetted as a national park in dramatic in Kenya, the animals are that bit
area. Half and full board are available. 1983, and have splendid views of Mt Kili- wilder and the parks receive comparatively
Next door, Namanga Safari Lodge (%0735- manjaro and populations of elands, giraffes, few visitors.
K E N YA
K E N YA
CAR & FOUR-WHEEL DRIVE
The usual approach to Amboseli is via Na- 249527; camping KSh300, d/tw KSh600) offers cheap zebras and wildebeests, plus a small number The northern half of Tsavo West is the
manga. The road is sealed and in surprisingly and cheerful accommodation and a garden of elephants, lions and buffaloes. Although most developed, with a number of excel-
good condition from Nairobi to Namanga; full of stucco animals. Meals are available there’s loads to see, the park lacks even basic lent lodges. The landscape here is made
the 75km dirt road to the Meshanani Gate on request, and the staff are generally eager infrastructure, though there has been a seri- of volcanic hills and sweeping expanses of
is pretty rough but passable (allow around to please. ous drive to open it up for tourism lately. savanna. The southern part of the park is
four hours from Nairobi). The Kobil petrol station marks the turn- Within the Chyulu Hills is Leviathan, the rarely visited.
Some people also enter from the east via off to Amboseli and is a good place to ask longest lava tube in the world, formed by hot Tsavo East is more remote, but there
the Amboseli–Tsavo West road, although around for lifts. Fill up here if you’re driving lava flowing beneath a cooled crust. You’ll are a number of lodges, and, refreshingly,
this track is in a bad way. During the 1990s into Amboseli. need full caving equipment to explore it. a number of independent budget tented
there were bandit attacks in this area, so ve- Buses between Nairobi and Arusha pass Caving and trekking trips in the hills are camps. Most of the action here is concen-
hicles have to travel together, accompanied through daily (KSh250, two hours). Matatus possible with Savage Wilderness Safaris Ltd (Nai- trated along the Galana River; the northern
by armed guards. Convoys leave from the also run here from the junction of River Rd robi %020-2521590; www.whitewaterkenya.com; Sarit part of the park is bandit country and isn’t
Tsavo turn-off at around 7am, 9am and 1pm. and Ronald Ngala St in Nairobi (KSh250); Centre, Westlands). really secure. The landscape is drier, with
Allow 2½ hours to cover the 94km from Am- Peugeots (shared taxis) on the same route The park headquarters (PO Box 458, Kibwezi) are rolling plains hugging the edge of the Yatta
boseli to the Chyulu Gate at Tsavo West. charge KSh300. 1.3km inside the northwest gate, not far Escarpment, a vast prehistoric lava flow.
Self-drivers will need a 4WD to make the Akamba has an office at the Kobil station, from Kibwezi on the Nairobi–Mombasa During the dry season the landscape
most of the park. Petrol is available at the where you can book seats on the morn- road. For the time being the best access is in both parks is dusty and parched, but it
Serena lodge. ing bus to Arusha (KSh200 to KSh250, 1½ on the west side of the park, from the track erupts into colour at the end of the wet
hours). between Amboseli and Tsavo West. season. Of course, that means there’s more
AROUND AMBOSELI NATIONAL PARK With no facilities inside the park, the greenery to hide the wildlife.
There are several private sanctuaries and Kimana Wildlife Sanctuary most convenient accommodation option is Both parks were once the lands of the
luxury tented camps hidden away in the About 30km east of Amboseli, close to the Ol Donyo Wuas (Map p304; Nairobi %020-600457; www Orma, Watta, Maasai and Kamba people,
bush between Amboseli and Tsavo West, of- road that connects Amboseli to Tsavo West, .richardbonhamsafaris.com; s/d from US$400/640; s), an but all the villagers were displaced when the
fering a level of peace and quiet that is sadly is this 40-hectare wildlife sanctuary (admission innovative ecolodge. The cottages are built park was gazetted. Some of these communi-
missing from some parts of Amboseli. The US$10, vehicle KSh100). It’s owned and run by from local materials, and a US$20 conserva- ties have now established wildlife sanctuar-
only access to this area is the poorly main- local Maasai, and wildlife is just as plentiful tion fee is charged to fund local community ies and group ranches on the outskirts of
tained dirt track from Emali to Loitokitok, here as in Amboseli. The sanctuary was set projects. Rates include wildlife drives and the park.
or the even more diabolical road between up with the help of the United States Agency horse riding in the surrounding wildlife Tsavo had terrible problems with poach-
Amboseli and Tsavo West. for International Aid (Usaid) and the KWS sanctuary. ers during the 1980s, when the elephant
Namanga, on the opposite side of the in 1996 and has proved to be an encourag- population dropped from 45,000 to just
park, is the main border crossing into Tan- ing template for similar initiatives. Getting There & Away 5000 and rhinos were almost wiped out
zania and has a few good places to stay. As well as three guarded camp sites (camping Until the road from Kibwezi is brought up entirely. Populations are slowly recovering
KSh150) within the sanctuary itself, there are to standard, your best bet is the 4WD track and there are now about 9000 elephants in
Namanga numerous luxury camps dotted around the that branches off the Amboseli–Tsavo West the two parks, but still less than 100 rhinos.
%045 area, including Campi ya Kanzi (Nairobi %020- road about 10km west of Chyulu Gate. Ol The last few years have once again seen a
A large township has grown up around the 605349; www.campiyakanzi.com; s/d from US$480/740), a Donyo Wuas can be reached via this track, worrying upsurge in poaching.
Tanzanian border at Namanga, and it’s a superb tented camp on a 400-sq-km Maasai- although most guests fly in from Nairobi.
good place to break the journey to Arusha run conservation project. The park headquarters is signposted Information
or Amboseli, with some nice places to stay The only access to Kimana is the poorly just outside Kibwezi, about 41km north- Entry is US$27/10 per adult/child per day,
and a surprisingly relaxed atmosphere away maintained dirt track leading west from the west of Mtito Andei on the main Nairobi– vehicles cost KSh200 and camping is US$10
from the frontier itself. The border crossing Nairobi–Mombasa road to the Tanzanian Mombasa road. per adult; as the two parks are administered
ὈὈὈ
304 N A I R O B I T O T H E C OA S T • • Ts a v o E a s t & W e s t N a t i o n a l Pa r k s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N A I R O B I T O T H E C OA S T • • Ts a v o N a t i o n a l Pa r k 305
Tsavo East & West National Parks
TSAVO EAST & WEST NATIONAL PARKS 0
0
30 km
20 miles
separately you have to pay separately for West’s 49 black rhinos. There are driving
each. Both use the smartcard system; you’ll tracks and waterholes within the enclosed
A B C D
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
need enough credit for your vehicle, entry area, and there’s a good chance of seeing
To Kitui
Mutomo (57km) 0
0
10 km
5 miles
fee and camping charges for as long as you’re one of these elusive creatures.
staying. Smartcards can be bought and re- Some of the more unusual species to look
Ath
Seven
1 Sisters charged at the Voi Gate to Tsavo East. out for in the park include the naked mole
i R
Shetani Hills All track junctions in Tsavo East and rat and the enigmatically named white-
iver
Caves
To Nairobi
(193km) Ikutha
Shetani
Lava Flow 11 Tsavo West have numbered and signposted bellied go-away bird, which is often seen
B7
cairns, but a map is helpful. Survey of Kenya perched in dead trees. Red-beaked hornbills
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
ko Riv 4 Hippo
ibo er
K Ti
va Chyulu
Gate
Pool
Roaring
publishes a Tsavo East National Park map and bataleur eagles are also common.
Kiboko Tsavo East
Park HQ
2
14
Chaimu Rocks
Ngulia Rhino
(KSh500) and a newer Tsavo West National It’s possible to go rock-climbing at Tembo
Crater
Makindu Rive
Mzima 6 7
Sanctuary Park map (KSh700). Both are available from Peak and the Ngulia Hills, but you’ll need to
Springs the main entrance gates and the visitor cen- arrange this in advance with the park warden
r
Tsa
tre at Tsavo West. Tourist Maps’ Tsavo Na- (%043-622483).
K E N YA
vo R
K E N YA
A109 iver Ngulia Tembo
Hills Peak
2 tional Parks (KSh250) covers both parks. Lake Jipe (ji-pay), at the southwest end of
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
At
Kibwezi Fuel is available at Kilaguni Serena and the park, is reached by a desperately dusty
hi
Ngulia Safari lodges in Tsavo West, and at track from near Taveta. You can hire boats
Riv
a t
Chyulu Hills Tsavo East
er
Park HQ National Park
Voi Safari Lodge in Tsavo East. at the campsite to take you hippo- and
t
8
a
crocodile-spotting on the lake (US$5). Huge
Chyulu Hills
National Park
Ngai-Ndethya
National Reserve
Tsavo West National Park herds of elephants come to the lake to drink
Mtito Andei
Gate &
Kalinzo
This fine national park covers a huge var- and large flocks of migratory birds stop here
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Visitors Centre
Plain iety of landscapes, from swamps and natu- from February to May.
P
Mtito Andei Gate Note: Most of Tsavo East National
10
l a
(Tsavo East)
Tsavo West Park north of Galana River is
closed to the general public
ral springs to rocky peaks, extinct volcanic
Park HQ
3 To Loitokitok (65km);
cones to rolling plains and sharp reddish SLEEPING
t
Amboseli National
e a
Park (91km)
outcrops dusted with greenery. It’s easily the There is no real budget accommodation in
C103
more attractive of the two parks, but wildlife Tsavo West. Campers can use the public camp
u
9
can be hard to spot because of the dense sites (camping adult/child US$10/5) at Komboyo,
scrub. Birds are very common, and there near the Mtito Andei Gate, and Chyulu,
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
r Tsavo 3 Ya t t t
ve Tsavo a Es c a r p m e n Galana River
Tsa
vo Ri Gate
C103
are large populations of elephants, zebras, just outside the Chyulu Gate, or a choice of
1
Ziwani See Enlargement Lugards
Falls Sala Gate
hippos and leopards. Lions are out there, special camp sites (camping adult/child US$15/5).
gate Manyani
Manyani Crocodile To
but they tend to stay hidden. Ngulia Safari Camp (Voi %043-30050; tsavoh@
Tsavo West Gate Point Malindi
The focus is Mzima Springs, which pro- africaonline.co.ke; r KSh3500-6000) Formerly Ngulia
ᝲ
National Park Mudanda (118km)
4 17 Rock duces an incredible 93 million gallons of Bandas, new management and a complete
fresh water a day. The springs are the source renovation have turned this hillside camp
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
Ngangao
To Taveta (11km);
Moshi (49km)
Maktau Forest Tsavo East
16 Park Office
Kanderi Swamp of the bulk of Mombasa’s fresh water, and into Tsavo’s best luxury bargain, offering
gate
Serengeti
Plains
Voi Gate
5
Voi
13 you can walk down to a large pool that is thatched tent-fronted stone cottages right
15
A23 Murka Maktau Wundanyi Voi Aruba
Dam
a favourite haunt of hippos and crocodiles. on the edge of the escarpment. Rooms come
Lumo Wildlife C104
Riv
er There’s an underwater viewing chamber, with or without kitchen, and there’s a small
A23 Ndara
Lake
Sanctuary
Sagala
Plains Dika
Plains
which unfortunately just gives a view of bar-restaurant.
Mwatate
Jipe
Sagala Maungu thousands of primeval-looking fish. Be a Severin Safari Camp (Mombasa %041-5485001;
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
Jipe gate 12 Hills Maungu Plains
little careful here – both hippos and crocs www.severin-kenya.com; s/d low season US$80/160, high
5 are potentially dangerous. season US$156/240) This is a fantastic complex
Taita Hills Rukinga Wildlife Buchuma
Conservancy & gate
Game Reserve
Taita Taita Discovery Chaimu Crater, just southeast of Kilaguni of thatched luxury tents, with affable staff,
K Hills Centre
T E To Mombasa Serena Lodge and the Roaring Rocks view- Kilimanjaro views from the communal
A N Mwanatibu (95km)
N Y
A
point, can be climbed in about 15 minutes. lounge area and nightly hippo visitations.
Z A109
A
N
Kasigau Rukanga The views from either spot are stunning, The camp also has a simple but excellent
gate
IA with falcons, eagles and buzzards whirling self-catering annexe, Kitani Bandas (double/
Bungule
Mkomazi SLEEPING Ol Donyo Wuas.............................8 A2
over the plains. While there is little danger triple bandas US$50/65).
Game Reserve Epiya Chapeyu Tented Camp.........1 C4 Patterson's Safari Camp.................9 C3 walking these trails, be aware that the wild- Kilaguni Serena Lodge (Namanga %045-340000;
Finch Hatton's Safari Camp............2 C2
Galdessa Safari Camp....................3 C4
Public Campsite............................10
Public Campsite............................11
B3
C1
life is still out there. www.serenahotels.com; s/d low season US$80/160, high
6 Kilaguni Serena Lodge....................4 C1 Salt Lick Safari Lodge...................12 B5 Another attraction is the Ngulia Rhino Sanc- season US$210/260, ste US$565; is) Kilaguni has
Kitani Bandas.............................(see 14) Satao Camp................................. 13 D4
KWS Campsites............................(see 5) Severin Safari Camp.....................14 C2
tuary, at the base of Ngulia Hills, part of recently been renovated and is as attractive
Ndololo Camp................................5 C4 Tarhi Camp..................................15 C4 the Rhino Ark program. The 70-sq-km area a place as ever, with a splendid bar and
Ngulia Safari Camp........................6 D2 Voi Safari Lodge.......................... 16 C4
Ngulia Safari Lodge........................7 D2 Voyager Ziwani........................... 17 A4
is surrounded by a 1m-high electric fence restaurant overlooking a busy illuminated
and provides a measure of security for Tsavo waterhole.
306 N A I R O B I T O T H E C OA S T • • Ts a v o N a t i o n a l Pa r k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N A I R O B I T O T H E C OA S T • • A r o u n d Ts a v o N a t i o n a l Pa r k 307
Finch Hatton’s Safari Camp (Nairobi % 020- see hippos and crocs. There are usually
553237; www.finchhattons.com; s/d/tr low season US$210/ armed guards around, but you shouldn’t get MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
285/427, high season US$260/370/555; s) An upmar- too close to the water. The lions of Tsavo National Park are unique in many ways. For a start the males lack the typical
ket tented camp in fine old colonial style. It’s The bush is thinner than in Tsavo West, so mane that usually distinguishes this species, a fact often attributed to the thorn-filled vegetation
situated among springs and hippo pools in wildlife is easier to spot, although it’s not as of their habitat, which makes long hair a real hindrance to free movement. As an Earthwatch study
the west of the park, with grounds so sprawl- plentiful. The rolling hills in the south of the recently revealed, they are also the only lions known to move in social groups with just one single
ing you have to take an escort at night. park are home to large herds of elephants, male – most normal prides have one or two younger hangers-on as well as the alpha male.
Voyager Ziwani (Voi %043-30506; www.heritage usually covered in red dust. The action is Remarkably, scientists now believe there may be a single cause for all these idiosyncracies:
-eastafrica.com; s/d low season US$130/180, high season concentrated around Voi Safari Lodge and testosterone. When tested, Tsavo lions showed noticeably elevated levels of the male sex hormone,
US$220/295; i) A luxury tented place by the the Kanderi Swamp, which is home to a profu- which could well be responsible for their hair loss and increased territorial behaviour.
Zimani Gate at the southwest end of the sion of wildlife. You can expect elephants to This theory would also explain the famed aggression of the Tsavo lions, which has earned
park, overlooking the Ziwa Dam. stroll through the campsite in the evenings. them a reputation as the fiercest predators in Africa. The best-known story concerns just two
Ngulia Safari Lodge (Voi %043-30000; ngulialodge@ The area north of the Galana River is lions, who ate their way through 140 railway workers in a single year during the 19th century!
dominated by the Yatta Escarpment, a vast
K E N YA
kenya-safari.co.ke; full board s/d/tr low season US$80/160/ The chief engineer, Colonel JH Patterson, eventually managed to trap and kill them, and sub-
K E N YA
228, s/d/tr high season US$150/200/280; s) A curi- prehistoric lava flow, but unfortunately sequently wrote a best-selling book about the experience, The Man-Eaters of Tsavo, which was
ously unattractive block in a spectacular much of this area is off limits because of the later filmed as The Ghost and the Darkness.
location, constructed in the bad old days of ongoing campaign against poachers. Dur- Although there’s been nothing to compare to this since, quite a few local people have been
emerging mass tourism. There’s a waterhole ing the 1980s the rhino population here was attacked over the last decade, so be a little cautious when walking at Chaimu Crater, Mzima
right by the restaurant and sweeping views decimated and there are worrying signs that Springs or Lugards Falls. Hormonal or not, the Tsavo lions are not to be trifled with.
over the Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary. poaching is once again on the increase.
Until their partial translocation to Tsavo
GETTING THERE & AWAY East, the sole surviving population of hi- Kanderi Swamp. There are also a few spe- (on the Nairobi–Mombasa road) are just
The main access to Tsavo West is through rola antelope was found near the Kenya– cial camp sites (adult/child US$15/5), which as accessible.
the Mtito Andei Gate on the Mombasa– Somalia border. Intense poaching along with move from year to year.
Nairobi road in the north of the park, where habitat destruction has reduced their num- Voi Safari Lodge (Mombasa %041-471861; voi AROUND TSAVO NATIONAL PARK
you’ll find the park headquarters and visitor bers from an estimated 14,000 in 1976 to a [email protected]; s/d low season US$80/110, high There are a number of independent nature
centre. The main track cuts straight across pitiful 450 today, 100 of them being in Tsavo season US$105/150; s) Just 4km from Voi Gate, reserves in the bush on the edge of Tsavo
to Kilaguni Serena Lodge and the Chyulu East. There are also around 48 black rhinos, this is a long, low complex overlooking an West. The road between Voi and Taveta
Gate. Security is a problem here, so vehicles moved here from Nairobi National Park, incredible sweep of savanna, with a lovely cuts through the lush hilly areas surround-
going to Amboseli travel in armed convoys, although how long they last in this hard-to- rock-cut swimming pool and a natural wa- ing Voi, providing interesting detours for
leaving the Kilaguni Serena Lodge at 8am police sanctuary remains to be seen. terhole. walkers and wildlife-spotters.
and 10am. On the positive side, the recent transloca- Satao Camp (Mombasa %041-475074; www.satao
Another 48km southeast along the main tion of 400 elephants from the Shimba Hills camp.com; s/d low season US$80/120, high season US$160/ Taita Hills & Wundanyi
road is the Tsavo Gate. It is handy for the National Reserve (p321) has replenished 200) On the Voi River, this popular upmar- South of the dirt road from Voi to Taveta
Ngulia Hills lodges and the rhino sanctuary. the populations depleted by poaching, and ket camp is nicely laid out, with 20 can- are the Taita Hills, a fertile area of ver-
The tracks here are only really suitable should herald the start of efforts to rehabili- opied tents surrounding a waterhole. dant hills and scrub forest, a far cry from
for 4WDs, and roads in the south of the tate the wild northern sector of the park. Galdessa Safari Camp (Nairobi %020-7123156; the semiarid landscape of Tsavo. Within
park are particularly challenging. www.galdessa.com; s/d low season US$336/512, high season the hills is the private Taita Hills Game Re-
SLEEPING US$446/684; hclosed May) On the Galana River, serve (adult/child US$23/12), covering an area
Tsavo East National Park Ndololo Camp (%043-30050; [email protected]; 15km west of Lugards Falls, this ecocamp of 100 sq km. The landscape is extremely
The landscape in Tsavo East is flatter and full board s/d/tr low season US$35/60/80, high season US$40/ is heavily involved in rhino conservation dramatic and all the plains wildlife is in
drier than in Tsavo West, despite the fact 70/90) A great-value tented camp with knot- projects. Rates include wildlife drives. abundance. If you stay at one of the lodges
that one of Kenya’s largest rivers cuts a green ted wooden furniture, mosquito nets, and Let’s Go Travel (%020-340331; www.lets-go-travel here, you can take a nocturnal wildlife
gash through the middle of the dusty orange canvas toilet and shower cubicles. An- .net) in Nairobi handles bookings for Epiya drive, something that’s not allowed in the
plains. The main track through the park fol- noyingly, you have to pay the US$10 park Chapeyu Tented Camp (s/d US$72/144; hclosed Apr- national parks.
lows the Galana River from the Tsavo Gate camping fee on top of the room rates. Jul), by the Galana River, and Patterson’s Safari Wundanyi, the provincial capital, is an
to the Sala Gate. The park headquarters, Tarhi Camp (Mombasa %041-5486378; kedev@ Camp (s/d low season US$65/90, high season US$85/120), interesting little place high up in the hills.
where you can charge and buy smartcards, africaonline.co.ke; half board s/d US$60/100) Owned by 9km from Tsavo Gate. Trails crisscross the cultivated slopes around
is at Voi Gate. a German company, this is a reasonably town, leading to dramatic gorges, waterfalls
There are several places along the flat- priced camp on the edge of the Voi River. GETTING THERE & AWAY and cliffs. It’s easy to find a guide, but stout
topped escarpments lining the river where It’s technically a special campsite, so an ad- Most tourist safaris enter Tsavo East via walking boots and a head for heights are
you can get out of your vehicle, with due ditional camping fee of US$15 is levied. the Sala Gate, where a good dirt road runs essential.
caution, of course. Most scenic are Lugards KWS camp sites (%043-30049; tenp@africaonline east for 110km to Malindi. If you’re com- Other attractions include the butterflies
Falls, a wonderful landscape of water-sculpted .co.ke; camping adult/child US$10/5) There’s a sin- ing from Nairobi, the Voi Gate (near the of Ngangao Forest (6km northwest, near
channels, and Crocodile Point, where you may gle camping ground with basic toilets near town of same name) and the Manyani Gate Werugha); the huge granite Wesu Rock; and
308 N A I R O B I T O T H E C OA S T • • V o i www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • H i s t o r y 309
the Cave of Skulls, where the Taita people once
put the skulls of their ancestors.
and there are some nice walks in the sur-
rounding hills. THE COAST the Portuguese swanned over the horizon,
attracted by the wealth and determined to
end the Arab trade monopoly.
SLEEPING Information It may seem at odds with the immediate It’s fashionable to portray the Portuguese
Salt Lick Safari Lodge (%043-30270; saltlick@africa Ashtec Computers (Fariji House) Email facilities. mental image of safari Africa, but Kenya’s as the bad guys, but the sultans of Oman,
online.co.ke; s/d/tr high season US$185/226/286, low sea- Kenya Commercial Bank (%30138; Nairobi– Indian Ocean shoreline is one of its greatest who defeated them in 1698, were no more
son US$132/161/195) This is the main accommo- Mombasa road) assets, and the unique flavour of this steamy, popular with the locals. Despite their shared
dation for visitors in the Taita Hills reserve. Post office (%30253) sultry region never fails to weave a spell over faith, the Swahilis staged countless rebel-
Children under five are not admitted. Telkom office (Nairobi–Mombasa road) its visitors. Even the most jaded beach bum lions, even passing Mombasa into British
Taita Rocks (%0735-651349; r KSh800-2000, per can find something to delight in amid the hands from 1824 to 1826 to keep it from the
person with shared bathroom KSh400-500) The best of Sleeping & Eating palm-fringed white-sand stretches that run sultans. Things only really quietened down
Wundanyi’s very limited accommodation Tsavo Park Hotel (%30050; [email protected]; pretty much all the way from Tanzania to after Sultan Seyyid Said moved his capital
offerings, perched up a slope off the road s/d/tr incl breakfast KSh1200/1800/2500) The large Somalia. to Zanzibar in 1832.
into town. rooms aren’t bad value, with some satel- Don’t be fooled into thinking it’s all about Said’s huge coastal clove plantations cre-
K E N YA
K E N YA
lite TVs, but ongoing building means the the beaches, though. In fact, it’s likely these ated a massive need for labour, and the slave
GETTING THERE & AWAY plumbing’s a bit dodgy. There’s a good- will only play a minor part in your trip; for caravans of the 19th century marked the
Frequent matatu services run between value restaurant. the adventurous independent traveller, the peak of the trade in human cargo. News of
Wundanyi and Voi (KSh120, one hour). Voi Town Lodge (%30705; s with shared bath- real draw of the coast is the Swahili culture massacres and human rights abuses soon
Leave Wundanyi by around 8.30am if you room KSh400, s/d with private bathroom KSh650/1000) A that permeates every aspect of daily life here, reached Europe, galvanising the British pub-
want to connect with the morning buses friendly and economical alternative to the from the bustling markets of Mombasa to lic to demand an end to slavery. Through a
to Nairobi from Voi. There are also direct Tsavo Park Hotel, with a handful of odd win- the living history enshrined in Lamu’s ever- mixture of political savvy and implied force,
matatus to Mombasa (KSh300, four to five dowless rooms. Some of the walls don’t reach captivating old town. Wandering narrow the British government was eventually able
hours) and an irregular morning service to the ceilings, but it’s comfortable enough. streets, exploring ancient ruins and setting to pressure Said’s son Barghash to ban the
Nairobi (KSh600, seven hours). Johari’s Guest House (%30489; s/d with shared sail in traditional dhows are the experiences slave trade.
bathroom KSh250/350) A cheap courtyard place that truly define a visit here, and you should Of course, this ‘reform’ didn’t hurt British
Lake Challa behind a drycleaner, one block north of the take every opportunity to soak up the at- interests: as part of the treaty, the British East
This deep, spooky crater lake is about main road through Voi. mosphere that sets the region apart from Africa Company took over administration of
10km north of Taveta. There are grand Silent Guest Resort (%30112; silentresort@yahoo the rest of Kenya. the Kenyan interior. A 16km-wide coastal
views across the plains from the crater rim, .com; s/d incl breakfast KSh2200/3200) Technically this For the active, the lure of coral reefs, re- strip was recognised as the territory of the
with the mysterious waters shimmering has a good claim to be the best hotel in town mote islands and unlimited water sports is sultan and was leased by the British from
hundreds of metres below. The lake gained in terms of facilities, but there’s not much another hefty incentive to splash beneath the 1887. Upon independence in 1963, the last
notoriety in early 2002 when a gap-year justification for the exorbitant price tag. surface. Even away from the ocean, the re- sultan of Zanzibar gifted the land to the new
student was killed by crocodiles here. You Most of the guesthouses have reasonable gion can muster up more than enough treats Kenyan government.
can walk around the crater rim and down restaurants, particularly the Tsavo Park and surprises to enthrall its fans and con- Today the coast province remains cultur-
to the water, but be very careful near the Hotel, and there are a few small food dukas vert its critics, with something unexpected ally and socially distinct from the rest of the
water’s edge and under no circumstances and cafés around the bus and matatu stand. at every turn. Sunbathing be damned – country, still heavily influenced by its Swa-
consider swimming. As Voi is a transport hub, there’s a low-key with coastal rainforest, tribal shrines, coral hili past. Indians are the largest minority, de-
The road to Challa turns off the Voi– prostitution scene servicing the truck driv- mosques, thumbless monkeys, elephants scendants of railway labourers and engineers
Taveta road on the outskirts of Taveta, by ers, which can be a hassle in some bars. and elephant shrews, Kenya’s coast should brought here by the British, and the popula-
the second police post. On Taveta market barely leave you time to relax. tion as a whole is predominantly Muslim.
days (Wednesday and Saturday) there are Getting There & Away
local buses to Challa village (KSh50), passing Frequent buses and matatus run to Mom- HISTORY MOMBASA
the turn-off to the crater rim. basa (KSh250, three hours), and buses to The Swahili culture of the coast was a prod- %041 / pop 653,000
Nairobi (KSh500 to KSh800, six hours) pass uct of trade, initiated by Persian and Arab Mombasa is the largest city on the Kenyan
VOI through town at around 10.30am and mid- merchants, who used the monsoon winds to coast and also the largest coastal port in East
%043 night. There are daily matatus to Wundanyi reach African shores and quickly established Africa. The city sprawls across a low-lying
Small but always busy, Voi is a key service (KSh100, one hour) and Taveta (KSh250, trading posts. By the 9th century a series of island at the mouth of a broad inlet, provid-
town at the intersection of the Nairobi– two hours), on the Tanzanian border. fully fledged city-states had spread out along ing a fantastic natural anchorage for ships.
Mombasa road and the road to Moshi in The train station (%30098), at the east- the coast from Somalia to Mozambique, and Traders have been coming here since at least
Tanzania. The Voi Gate to Tsavo East Na- ern end of town, has trains to Mombasa the first African slaves began to appear in the 12th century, and goods from Uganda,
tional Park is just east of the town, and Voi (KSh1410/1130 in 1st/2nd class) at around Arabia. Rwanda, Burundi and eastern Democratic
has plenty of cheap places to stay, which 4am on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, Intermarriage between Arabs and Af- Republic of the Congo (DR Congo) all still
is great for travellers who can’t afford the and to Nairobi (KSh2100/1475 in 1st/2nd ricans gradually created the Swahili race, pass through here on their way overseas.
safari lodges inside the park. There’s a lively class) at around 11pm on Tuesday, Thursday language and culture, and established some The city’s population is overwhelmingly
market area and a general air of activity, and Sunday. powerful dynasties. In the early 16th century African, many of whom are Swahilis, but
ὈὈ ὈὈ
310 T H E C OA S T www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • M o m b a s a 311
The Coast
THE COAST 0
0
50 km
30 miles
there are a remarkable range of races and it’s still Kenya’s second city and a crucial
To Garissa (75km); To Garissa (75km);
cultures here, from Africans to British ex- social barometer for the coast province as
ὈὈ ὈὈ
Thika (380km) Thika (380km) pats, Omanis, Indians and Chinese. a whole.
ὅὅὅὅ
LEGEND
NP National Park
Most package tourists stay in the beach
NR National Reserve resorts north or south of town, but leaving Orientation
ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ
SOMALIA Mombasa out of your itinerary completely The main thoroughfare in Mombasa is
would be a shame. The most interesting Digo Rd and its southern extension Ny-
ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅ
Arawale
Do
do
part is the characterful Old Town, with its erere Ave, which run north–south through
ri
NR narrow, winding alleyways, historic Swahili the city. The ferry to Likoni and the south
ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ
ὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅ
Boni houses and the remains of the mighty Fort coast leaves from the southern end of Ny-
Hola NR
Jesus. erere Ave.
ὅὅὅ
Riv
Ijara
er
Running west from the junction between
B8
History Nyerere Ave and Digo Rd is Moi Ave, where
ὅὅὅ
Du
ld
ul
Mombasa has always been at the centre of you’ll find the tourist office and the famous
K E N YA
K E N YA
Ri Dodori
Tana River ve NR
r Bodhei
ὅὅὅὅὅ
National
Kiunga the coast’s key events, a crucial stronghold sculpted ‘tusks’, two huge pairs of alumin-
ὈὈ
Primate Reserve
Marine
NR for local and invading powers ever since the ium elephant tusks forming an M over the
ὅὅὅὅὅ
Bargoni Kiwayu Arab-Swahili Mazrui clan emerged as one of road, which were erected to mark a visit
Paté
Island the most powerful families in 9th-century by British royal Princess Margaret in 1956.
ὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ
Tana
o
Hindi Paté Island East Africa. Heading east from the same junction, Nk-
g
Mokowe
la
Garsen Manda The first Portuguese forays into Arab ter- rumah Rd provides the easiest access to the
e
ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ
Lamu
ip
Witu C112 Lamu
Island
rc
h ritory took place here in 1505, when Dom Old Town and Fort Jesus.
ὈὈ
Island A Francisco de Almeida arrived with a huge North of the city centre, Digo Rd be-
ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ
u
River m
Kipini La armada and levelled the city in just 1½ days. comes Abdel Nasser Rd, where you’ll find
The plundered remains were soon rebuilt, many of the bus stands for Nairobi and
ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ
Tana Delta Camp
B8 Ungwana but in 1528 Lisbon struck again as Nuña da destinations north along the coast. There’s
Bay Cunha captured the city, first by diplomacy another big group of bus offices west of here
Ga
nd
(offering to act as an ally in Mombasa’s dis- at the intersection of Jomo Kenyatta Ave
i
putes with Malindi, Pemba and Zanzibar) and Mwembe Tayari Rd. The train station
ὈὈ
Tsavo East
ᝲᝲ
NP Marafa
Marafa
Depression and then by force. Once again Mombasa is at the intersection of Mwembe Tayari and
Galana was burned to the ground while the invaders Haile Selassie Rds.
Ri
Gongoni
ve
To Manyani sailed on to India.
r
C103 Riv Mambrui INDIAN
(75km) er
Sala Malindi The Portuguese made a bid for perman- MAPS
ᝲᝲ
Gate Malindi Marine OCEAN
Arabuko Gede NP ency in 1593 with the construction of Fort Choices are limited but your best option
Sokoke Gede Ruins
e Forest Jesus, but the hefty structure quickly became is the 1:10,000 Streets of Mombasa Island
ὈὈ
Rar Reserve
Watamu Malindi Marine
Reserve
a symbolic target for rebel leaders and was map (KSh350), updated in 2004 and avail-
Ri
ve
B8
besieged incessantly. During the 17th and able from the tourist office. For more de-
r
Watamu Marine
Bamba NP Watamu-Malindi
Marine NR
Buchuma
Gate
(Coral Gardens) 18th centuries Mombasa changed hands tailed coverage seek out the Mombasa A to Z
Kilifi
Mnarani dozens of times before the Portuguese finally (KSh300), which was fully revised in 2003 –
Takaungu
gave up their claim to the coast in 1729. it may be easier to find in Nairobi than in
Cre pa
To Voi (61km); A109
a
Waiting to step into the power vacuum Mombasa itself.
ek
Kaloleni Vipingo
Mtw
Tsavo West National
Park (125km); Mariakani Kikambala Beach
Nairobi (395km) Mtwapa were the sultans of Oman, who had de-
Mwaluganje
Elephant
Shanzu Beach
Nyali Beach
feated the Europeans and occupied Fort Information
Kinango
Sanctuary MOMBASA Jesus after an incredible 33-month siege in BOOKSHOPS
Ramis
i
Kwale Shelly
Beach
Mombasa
Marine Park 1698. The city remained in their control up Bahati Book Centre (Map p314; %225010; Moi Ave)
C106
Tiwi Tiwi Beach until the 1870s, when British intervention Books First (Map p312; %313482; Nakumatt, Nyerere
Ukunda
Shimba Hills Diani Beach
ended the slave trade and gained for the Ave; i) Well-stocked outlet with separate café.
NR R
ive
r
Mwabungu
Gazi Beach
Empire a foothold in East Africa. City Bookshop (Map p314; %313149; Nkrumah Rd)
Lunga Msambweni Chale Island Mombasa subsequently became the rail-
A14
Lunga
Ramisi
Bodo head for the Uganda railway and the most EMERGENCY
Funzi Island
Horohoro Shimoni
important city in British East Africa. In AAR Health Services (%312409; h24hr)
Vanga
Wasini Island 1920, when Kenya became a fully fledged Police (%222121, 999)
TANZANIA
Kisite-Mpunguti
Marine NP
British colony, Mombasa was made capital
of the separate British Coast Protectorate. INTERNET ACCESS
To Tanga (50km); Today the cut and thrust of politics and Blue Room (Map p314; %224021; www.blueroomon
Dar es Salaam (440km) power play largely passes Mombasa by, but line.com; Haile Selassie Rd; per min KSh2; h9am-10pm)
312 T H E C OA S T • • M o m b a s a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • M o m b a s a 313
Mombasa
MOMBASA 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles Info Café (Map p314; %227621; infomombasa@yahoo TRAVEL AGENCIES
.com; Ambalal House, Nkrumah Rd; per min KSh1) Dial-A-Tour (Map p312; %221411; dialatour@ikenya
A To Moi International B C D Wavetek (Map p314; %0735-295007; TSS Towers, .com; Oriental Bldg, Nkrumah Rd)
Airport (12km);
Nairobi (520km)
Nkrumah Rd; per min KSh1) Also offers international calls Express Travel (Map p314; %315405; PO Box 90631,
from KSh15 per minute. Nkrumah Rd) AmEx agent. Mail can be held here for
1 To Northern cardholders.
Beaches (10km);
Malindi (116km); KENYA WILDLIFE SERVICE Fourways Travel (Map p314; %223344; Moi Ave)
Jom
To
Lamu (344km)
m
KWS office (Map p312; %312744/5; Nguua Court, Mama
oK
Nyali
M
Bridg
bo
en
e 13 Ngina Dr; h6am-6pm) Sells and charges smartcards. VISA EXTENSIONS
ya
ya
ὈὈὈὈ
tta
Rd
Av
Immigration office (Map p312; %311745; Uhuru ni
e
Av
ka
e
no
MEDICAL SERVICES Kari Bldg, Mama Ngina Dr)
no
Nyali Rd
Rd
To
uni
Kis
a All services and medication must be paid
r Rd
for upfront, so have travel insurance details Dangers & Annoyances
asse
Ga
tu
handy. Mombasa is relatively safe compared to Nai-
K E N YA
nd
el N
K E N YA
u Kikowan
i Rd
Rd
Rd
Abd
2 Mombasa Aga Khan Hospital (Map p312; %312953; akhm@mba robi, but the streets still clear pretty rapidly
undu
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Baringo Rd Rd Rd
See Central Mombasa Map (p314)
Harbour
23
.akhmkenya.org; Vanga Rd) after dark so it’s a good idea to take taxis
a
Mwab
ak 26
Pandya Memorial Hospital (Map p312; %229252;
y
rather than walk around alone at night.
za
Mu
Mijik 24
Fa
enda
St
15 Bia
sha
Kimathi Ave) You need to be more careful on the beaches
Mwembe Tayari Rd ra
Train Jom
oK
St north and south of town. The Likoni ferry is
Bajun
Mach Station
Shibu Rd
en
akos
St ya
tta
MONEY a bag-snatching hot spot.
A ve
Hail Old Harbour
Outside business hours you can exchange Visitors should also be aware of anti-
ὈὈ
Ὀ
Pandya Rd e Se
Khan Rd
lassie money at major hotels, although rates are Western sentiment among some Kenyan
Rd
Aga
The Rd
Digo
usually quite poor. Exchange rates are Muslims: hostile graffiti and Osama Bin
t
Tusks
bo S
Ndia
Rd
d
oni R
3 Post 18
7 Uhuru generally slightly lower here than you’ll Laden T-shirts abound, and demonstrations
Kom
Office Moi A
Kuu
ve Park Maka 19
Kibok
a
28 dara 11
find in Nairobi, especially for travellers against Israel and America are increasingly
Tangan
21 Rd 22 Old Town
Rd
27
nifu
3
Jumhuri cheques. common. Keep a low profile during any es-
Msa
Sautiya Ke 9
nya Rd Park
Chief A 17
Arc
hbis
li Bin N
aam R
d Sports 2 d 10 Barclays Bank Nkrumah Rd (Map p314; %224573); Digo calation of violence in the Middle East or
hop Grounds Nkrumah R 12
Ma
Rd 5 Rd (Map p314; %311660) terrorist activity in the West.
ὈὈὈὈ
kario
a
Ave
s Rd oj
zi
M 16 Fort Jesus Forex Bureau (Map p312; %316717; Ndia Malaria is a big risk on the coast, so re-
rere
na
M 6 Kuu Rd) member to take your antimalarial drugs
Nye
Ma
4
14
Kenya Commercial Bank Moi Ave (Map p314; (see p643).
ma
Commonwealth
Ave
Ngin
War Graves
Kim
athi %220978); Nkrumah Rd (Map p312; %312523)
Kaunda Ave
Kayanda Rd
aD
4 Tayib Abdulla 8 Postbank (Map p314; %3434077; Moi Ave) Western Sights & Activities
r
Nassir Rd
SLEEPING Union money transfers. FORT JESUS
ὈὈὈὈ
Hotel State House
Sai Rose............................ 14 B4
Van 1
Pwani Rd
Hotel Sapphire............................15 B2 Pwani Forex Bureau (Map p314; %221727; Digo Rd) Mombasa’s biggest tourist attraction domi-
ga To State House
Mba
Standard Chartered Bank (Map p312; %224614; nates the harbour entrance at the end of Nk-
e
Rd Lotus Hotel................................16 C4
Av
(500m)
Manson Hotel............................17 B3
raki R
rere
Math
en
Rd ge Tamarind Village......................(see 24) Treasury Sq, Nkrumah Rd) rumah Rd. The metre-thick coral walls make
Nye
d
it an imposing edifice, despite being partially
Prince Andrew Rd
Dr EATING
Kaun POST ruined. The fort was built by the Portuguese
Ngina
da Rd
Cozy Inn....................................18 C3
Ave a
mb Island Dishes..............................19 C3 Post office (Map p314; %227705; Digo Rd) in 1593 to enforce their rule over the coastal
Mbuyuni Rd
wa a
am Nakumatt Supermarket..............20 B5
ὈὈὈ
M
20
Cricket
M
New Overseas Chinese-Korean Swahilis, but they rarely managed to hold
5 Club INFORMATION
Mombasa
Aga Khan Hospital....................... 1 B4
Restaurant & Bar....................21
New Recoder Restaurant............22
B3
C3
TELEPHONE onto it for long. It changed hands at least
Golf Club
Oceanic
Rd
Books First...............................(see 20) Siesta Bar & Restaurant..............23 D2 Post Global Services (Map p314; %230581; inglobal@ nine times in bloody sieges between 1631 and
No Through
Dial-A-Tour..................................2 C3
Fort Jesus Forex Bureau...............3 D3
Tamarind Restaurant................. 24 D2
africaonline.co.ke; Maungano Rd; h7.30am-8pm; i) 1875, finally falling under British control.
30 Road
Immigration Office...................... 4 D4 DRINKING International calls are around KSh85 per minute. Owner The fort was the final project completed
Kilindini Kenya Commercial Bank..............5 C3 Office........................................25 A6
M
am KWS Office................................. 6 D4
Rashmi is re-establishing his travel agency, and can act as by Italian architect Joao Batista Cairato in
Harbour a Ngina Dr
Mombasa & Coast Tourist
New Florida Office..7 B3
Nightclub ENTERTAINMENT a capable and friendly ‘fixer’ for travellers. his long career as Chief Architect for Por-
Pandya Memorial Hospital...........8 C4 Nyali Cinemax...........................26 D2
To New Florida Nightclub
Telkom Kenya (Map p314; %312811) Locations on tugal’s eastern colonies. There are some
rry
(250m); Mombasa Golf Standard Chartered Bank.............9 C3
e
Club (350m)
iF
TRANSPORT Nkrumah Rd and Moi Ave. ingenious elements in its design, especially
on
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Avenue Motors..........................27 A3
Lik
Fort Jesus...................................10 D3 Avis...........................................28 A3 the angular configuration of the west walls,
6 Likoni Mombasa Old Town Buses & Matatus to Southern TOURIST INFORMATION which makes it impossible to attack one wall
29 Conservation Society.............11 D3 Coast, Msambweni,
25 INDIAN
Museum..................................(see 10) Kwale & Lunga Lunga........... 29 A6 Mombasa & Coast Tourist Office (Map p312; without being a sitting duck for soldiers on
To Southern Beaches (20km);
Old Law Courts O CGallery..............
EAN
Southern Cross Safaris................13 D1
12 D3 Glory Car Hire............................(see 7)
Msafiri.......................................(see 7)
%225428; [email protected]; Moi Ave; h8am- 4.30pm) the opposite battlements.
Shimba Hills Natioanl reserve (30km); She
Shimoni 976km); Tanzania (100km); Beac lly Tamarind Dhow.......................(see 24) Transport & Matatu Stand.........30 B5 Provides information and can organise accommodation, These days the fort houses a museum (Map
hR
Tsavo National Parks (150km) d tours, guides and transport. p312; %222425; [email protected]; adult/child
314 T H E C OA S T • • M o m b a s a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • M o m b a s a 315
Central Mombasa
CENTRAL MOMBASA 0 200 m INFORMATION Glory Bed & Breakfast...............22 B3 ENTERTAINMENT
0 0.1 miles
Bahati Book Centre..................... 1 A4 Glory Guest House....................23 B3 Kenya Cinema.......................... 44 D4
A B C D Barclays Bank.............................. 2 D2 Hotel Dorse...............................24 B3
51
Barclays Bank............................. 3 D4 New Palm Tree Hotel............... 25 D4 SHOPPING
r Rd
26
Blue Room..............................(see 30) New People's Hotel...................26 D1 Ketty Plaza..............................(see 16)
asse
Jo
Ga
55
m
46 City Bookshop............................ 4 C4 Royal Court Hotel.....................27 A2
el N
o
tun
Ke
Noor Mosque Express Travel (Amex)................ 5 C4 Tana Guest House.....................28 A1 TRANSPORT
du
Abd
ny
1
at
Rd
Fourways Travel......................(see 17) Akamba....................................45 B1
ta
45 53 49
Av
Info Café.................................... 6 C4 EATING Buses & Matatus to Malindi......46 D1
e
To Train 40 Bun
Station (400m) Sikh 56 48 gom Italian Consulate......................... 7 C4 Baron Restaurant & Pub............29 C3 Buses to Arusha & Moshi
28 aR
Temple 54 Bia
d 57 Kenya Commercial Bank............. 8 C4 Blue Room Restaurant.............. 30 C3 (Mwembe Tayari
Mwembe Tayari Rd sha
47 ra Post Global Services....................9 B3 China Town Restaurant............ 31 C4 Health Centre)......................47 B1
50 St
Post Office................................10 C3 Fayaz Baker & Confectioners.... 32 C2 Buses to Dar es Salaam &
Postbank...................................11 A3 Fontanella Steakhouse & Tanga....................................48 B1
Jo
m Pwani Forex Bureau.................. 12 D2 Beer Garden..........................33 C4 Busscar...................................(see 55)
o
Ke Telkom Kenya.......................... 13 D4 Little Chef Dinners Pub............. 34 A4 Busstar......................................49 D1
ibu Rd
ny
at
ta Telkom Kenya.......................... 14 C4 Main Market............................ 35 D2 Coastline Safaris........................50 B1
K E N YA
K E N YA
Av Wavetek................................... 15 C4 New Chetna Restaurant............36 B3 Falcon.......................................51 D1
Kwa Sh
e 12
2 Neh Pistacchio Café..........................37 B3 Falcon.....................................(see 53)
2
ὈὈ
ru R To Old
35 d
Town
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Rozina House Restaurant.......... 38 A4 Kenya Airways.......................... 52 C4
32
(500m) Ketty Tours...............................16 B4 Shehnai Restaurant...................39 B3 Kobil Petrol Station.................(see 54)
To Train Hos Safari Seekers............................17 B4 Singh Restaurant.......................40 A1 Mash Express............................53 B1
pita
d
Station l St Splendid View Restaurant.........41 B3 Matatus to Voi &
(400m) 27 bo R
SLEEPING Wundanyi............................. 54 B1
Kom
La
Beracha Guest House................18 C3 DRINKING Mombasa Raha.........................55 D1
Kon
nifu
St
36 zi St ng Castle Royal Hotel....................19 B4 Casablanca Restaurant & Mombasa Raha.........................56 B1
Hail on
Turkana
Msa
e Se iR
lassie d Dancourt Hotel......................... 20 C4 Club......................................42 A4 Oman Air.................................(see 7)
Rd
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ ὈὈὈ
22 Old Kilindini Rd Evening Guest House................ 21 A4 Toyz Disco.................................43 C4 TSS Express...............................57 D1
30
u Rd
To Old Town (500m)
d
24
o R
3 Tours
Shib
Uhuru 39 9 18
OLD TOWN
gan
While Mombasa’s Old Town doesn’t quite A number of tour companies have branches
Kwa
Gardens
un
Mwindani 41 Tait
Ma
Rd
Rd
aS
t 29 have the medieval charm of Lamu or Zan- in Mombasa (see p94 for more details) and
Digo
23
To Mombasa & Coast
Tourist Office (100m) Me
Sheikh
Jundoni Maka
zibar, it’s still an interesting area to wander offer standard tours of the Old Town and
ru Mosque Gusii St 10 dara
37 Rd around. The houses here are characteristic Fort Jesus (from US$50 per person), plus
ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ
11 Rd
of coastal East African architecture, with or- safaris to Shimba Hills National Reserve and
38 1 34 Meru
Rd nately carved doors and window frames and Tsavo East and Tsavo West National Parks.
Moi
16
Ave
Jumhuri fretwork balconies, designed to protect the Most safaris are expensive lodge-based af-
42
Sautiya Ke
17
7
8 20 Park modesty of the female inhabitants. Sadly, fairs, but there are a few camping safaris to
4 19
nya Rd 15 43 many of these have been destroyed; there is Tsavo East and West.
e Rd
14 52
now a preservation order on the remaining Numerous activities are possible both
Rd
Mpy
5 4
33
oja
t
Ave
21
doors and balconies, so further losses should north and south of Mombasa; most oper-
ni S
Mjie
M
i Sports 31 6 44
To Fort
az 3
inda
rere
n Grounds To Nakumatt Jesus (600m)
M Supermarket (1km);
Holy Ghost
Cathedral
Nkrumah
Rd hopefully be prevented. The Mombasa Old ators will pick you up from wherever you’re
Nye
Mik
Likoni Ferry (1.5km) 13 25
Town Conservation Society (Map p312; %312246; staying for a small extra charge.
Sir Mbarak Hinawy Rd) is encouraging the renova-
KSh200/100; h8am-6pm), built over the barracks. in the late 18th century, and houses a small tion of many dilapidated buildings. HARBOUR CRUISES
The exhibits are mostly ceramics, reflecting exhibition of Omani jewellery and artefacts. From the outside there’s little evidence of Luxury dhow cruises around the harbour are
the variety of cultures that traded along the Nearby is a ruined church, a huge well and what any of these buildings were once used very popular in Mombasa and, notwithstand-
coast, but include other interesting odds and cistern, and an excavated grave complete for. To flesh out their history, it’s worth pick- ing the price, they are an excellent way to see
ends donated from private collections or dug with skeleton. The eastern wall of the fort ing up a copy of the booklet The Old Town the harbour, the Old Town and Fort Jesus,
up from sites along the coast. Also displayed includes an Omani audience hall and the Mombasa: A Historical Guide (KSh200) from and get a slap-up meal at the end of it.
are finds from the Portuguese frigate Santo Passage of the Arches, a passage cut through the tourist office or the Fort Jesus ticket of- Topping the billing is the Tamarind Dhow
António de Tanná, which sank near the fort the coral to give access to the sea. fice. This guide features old photos, a good (Map p312;%475074; www.tamarinddhow.com), run
during the siege in 1698, and the far end of Coach tours arrive here late in the morn- map and building-by-building descriptions. by the posh Tamarind restaurant chain of
the hall is devoted to the fascinating culture ing, so if you come early you may have the the same name. The cruise embarks from
of the nine coastal Mijikenda tribes. place to yourself. Many official and unofficial OLD LAW COURTS the jetty below the Tamarind restaurant in
Exploring the battlements and ruined guides will offer their services, often for free, The old law courts on Nkrumah Rd have Nyali, and includes a harbour tour and a
buildings within the compound is just as though a tip is expected. Alternatively, you been converted into an informal gallery (Map fantastic meal. The lunch cruises leave at
interesting, though the fort feels much can buy the 1981 Fort Jesus guide (KSh60) p312; Nkrumah Rd; admission free; h8am-6pm), with 1pm and cost US$40/20 per adult/child, or
smaller than it looks from the outside. The from the ticket desk and go it alone. At 7pm regularly changing displays of local art, Ken- US$80/40 when combined with a city tour.
Omani house in the San Felipe bastion in the there’s a daily ‘sound and light show’ illus- yan crafts, school competition pieces and vo- Longer and more splendid evening cruises
northwestern corner of the fort was built trating the fort’s history; tickets cost US$15. tive objects from various tribal groups. leave at 6.30pm and cost US$70/35. There
316 T H E C OA S T • • M o m b a s a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • M o m b a s a 317
is a choice of seafood, steak and vegetarian KSh1000) Set in a thatched courtyard behind away in a quiet residential neighbourhood The highly superior Tamarind restaurant
dishes. Prices include a complimentary cock- its own large restaurant area, the Evening and is well looked after, with plain but spa- chain now has its own highly superior accom-
tail and transport to and from your hotel. does have something of the night about it, cious standard rooms. Security is very tight, modation complex, with a range of luxury
The other big operator is Jahazi Marine but is still mostly good value despite a few and amenities include a restaurant, TV and serviced apartments for anyone too full, rich
(%5485001; www.severin-kenya.com), which offers cramped singles. pool room. or highly superior to stagger back to town.
evening trips for US$75. The price includes Beracha Guest House (Map p314; %0722-673798; Hotel Dorse (Map p314; %222252; hoteldorse@afri Full kitchenettes give you the option of cook-
transfers, a sunset cruise, a walk through the Haile Selassie Rd; s/d KSh500/750) This popular central caonline.co.ke; Kwa Shibu Rd; s/d/tw KSk2500/3000/3500; ing, but really, with Tamarind and the resort’s
Old Town and entry to Fort Jesus for the light choice has variable but clean rooms in a range a) Marketed at a conference clientele, this private Harbour restaurant next door, why on
show and a five-course meal; for an extra of unusual shapes. There’s a cheap restaurant, is a good low-lying building with balconies, earth would you want to?
US$10 you can sample a casino and head on and ongoing building work should add a few big beds and showers designed for very tall Hotel Sai Rose (Map p312; %222897; hotelsairose@
to the Bora Bora International Nightclub in more strange angles to the geometry. people. As a minor downside, it’s currently iconnect.co.ke; Nyerere Ave; s US$30-40, d US$40-60,
Bamburi, in the northern beaches. Glory Bed & Breakfast (Map p314; %228282; Haile overlooked by shabby tenement blocks and ste US$75; a) It has to be said that this is
Selassie Rd; s/d/tr incl breakfast KSh700/1000/1400) Ad- a building site. a bit of an oddity: a long narrow building
Festivals & Events equate, if a little cramped: rooms have fans Hotel Sapphire (Map p312; %491657; hotelsapphire@ with tight pastel corridors stuck between
K E N YA
K E N YA
The Mombasa Carnival ([email protected]) is but no mosquito nets. Taking a room with africaonline.co.ke; Mwembe Tayari Rd; s/d/tr KSh2200/ two patches of waste ground. For the price,
the city’s major annual event, held every No- shared bathroom knocks KSh200 off the 3300/4200; as) The Sapphire offers pass- though, rooms aren’t bad at all, especially
vember. The festival sees Moi Ave come alive price. There have been no reports concerning able rooms conveniently close to the train the Swahili-themed executive rooms and
for the day with street parades, floats, and lots security issues lately, but always be cautious station, but the big multistorey building the blue honeymoon suite.
of music from the diverse cultural groups of when travelling. looks better from the outside than inside,
the coastal region and the rest of Kenya. and could do with a touch up in places. The Eating
MIDRANGE swimming pool’s often empty. Eating on the coast can be a completely dif-
Sleeping Rates include breakfast for all of the follow- Dancourt Hotel (Map p314; %226278; swamboi ferent experience from dining inland, with
There are plenty of budget choices in Mom- ing options. [email protected]; Meru Rd; s/d KSh1500/2000) Only half more variety, fresh seafood, and a whole new
basa, as well as some excellent midrange Castle Royal Hotel (Map p314; %220373; info@680 built, the existing rooms show laudable am- range of spices and flavours. There’s a wide
hotels, but there are few top-end options. hotel.co.ke; Moi Ave; s/d/tr KSh2300/3000/4200; ai) bition, with fancy carved doors and huge selection of restaurants in Mombasa, reflect-
Many people choose to skip Mombasa and Quite simply the best hotel in town, and at TVs, but the blocked views detract consid- ing both Swahili tradition and the cosmo-
head straight for the beaches to the north these prices one of the best deals in the whole erably. When the upstairs balcony rooms politan ethnic make-up of the city itself.
and south. All the places listed here have fans of Kenya. The newly renovated Castle Royal are finished they’ll be much nicer and the
and mosquito nets as a minimum require- is a joy to stay in, with TV, phone, fridge, charming pastel-orange patio café should RESTAURANTS
ment, though their condition varies widely! safe, iron-framed bed and stylish décor in come into its own. Kenyan & Swahili
every room, plus an excellent breakfast in Glory Guest House (Map p314; %228202; Kwa Shibu Explore the Old Town for cheap, authentic
BUDGET the cool terrace restaurant at the front. A Rd; s/d/tr with shared bathroom KSh600/1000/1400, s with Swahili cuisine; if in doubt, follow the lo-
Most of the really cheap choices are in the shop, travel agent and Chinese restaurant private bathroom KSh900-1500, d with private bathroom cals to find the best deals. Most places are
busy, noisy area close to the bus stations round out the amenities. KSh1300-2000, tr with private bathroom KSh2100; a) Muslim-run, so no alcoholic drinks are sold
on Abdel Nasser Rd and Jomo Kenyatta New Palm Tree Hotel (Map p314; %312623; Nk- This place shares a dodgy air with its fellow and they’re closed until after sunset during
Ave. Women travelling alone might want rumah Rd; s/d KSh1160/1740) The appealing New Glory properties, but most rooms are rea- Ramadan.
to opt for something a little further up the Palm Tree may be a step down from the sonable, especially the VIP rooms further up Island Dishes (Map p312; % 0720-887311; Ki-
price scale. competition in facilities, but it has character the scale. As the massive padlocks suggest, bokoni Rd; mains KSh50-180) Once your eyes have
Tana Guest House (Map p314; % 490550; cnr and charm in spades, with all the rooms set be conscious of the security of your belong- managed to adjust to the dazzling strip
Mwembe Tayari & Gatundu Rds; s/d/tr KSh400/500/600) A around a fantastic roof terrace. The mos- ings while travelling. lights, feast them on the tasty menu at this
simple but friendly place in the slightly seedy quito nets are variable and hot water can be whiter-than-white Lamu-themed canteen.
area close to the Jomo Kenyatta Ave bus unreliable, but the rooms are big, the bar TOP END Mishkaki (kebabs), chicken tikka, fish, fresh
stations. Rooms are clean, tidy and pretty and restaurant are well priced, and it has the Royal Court Hotel (Map p314; %223379; royalcourt@ juices and all the usual favourites are on
much what you’d expect for the price. most sociable atmosphere in town. swiftmombasa; Haile Selassie Rd; s US$60-70, d US$75-95, offer to eat in or take away, though the
New People’s Hotel (Map p314; Abdel Nasser Rd; s/d Lotus Hotel (Map p312; %313207; lotus_hotel@ ste US$130; a) The swish lobby is the high- biryani (curry and rice) is only available at
with shared bathroom KSh200/350, with private bathroom hotmail.com; Cathedral Rd; s/d/tr KSh1800/2500/3000; a) light of this stylish business hotel – execu- lunchtime.
KSh350/500) This basic dosshouse gets loads of A welcome change from dull everyday hotel tive rooms are reasonably plush, but the New Recoder Restaurant (Map p312; Kibokoni Rd;
noise from traffic and the Noor Mosque next design. The rooms don’t quite live up to the standard rooms are beaten hands down by mains KSh50-180) A local favourite in a new lo-
door, but you can’t argue with the prices. delightful inner courtyard with its Muslim- those at the Castle Royal, which cost half as cation, slightly tattier than Island but with
There’s a good, cheap restaurant downstairs, style fountain, but they’re quiet and well much! Still, service and facilities are good, much the same coast cuisine.
and it’s very convenient for buses to Lamu sized, with two bars and a restaurant cater- disabled access is a breeze, and you get great Singh Restaurant (Map p314; %493283; Mwembe
and Malindi. ing amply for other needs. views and excellent food at the Tawa Ter- Tayari Rd; mains KSh50-150) The Sikh temple near
Evening Guest House (Map p314; %221380; Mnazi Manson Hotel (Map p312; %222356; vnmulji@ race restaurant on the roof. the bus stands operates this small cafeteria
Moja Rd; s/d with shared bathroom KSh600/800, s with africaonline.co.ke; Kisumu Rd; s KSh1050-1650, d KSh1650- Tamarind Village (Map p312; % 473161; www restaurant, tipped by Mombasans in the
private bathroom KSh700-800, d with private bathroom 2300; a) This tall balconied block is hidden .tamarind.co.ke; Silos Rd, Nyali; apt KSh8000-16,000; as) know as one of the best places in town for
318 T H E C OA S T • • M o m b a s a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • M o m b a s a 319
vegetarians. KSh250 is more than enough go hungry and vegetarians even get their or snack. Lunch and dinner are planned Drinking
to get you a massive feed. own menu. The only bum note is the rather weekly, with just four Italian-themed main There are plenty of good drinking holes in
cheesy keyboard music, which takes a few dishes available each day. Mombasa and many restaurants cater pri-
Indian dawas (vodka, lime and honey cocktails) Pistacchio Café (Map p314; %221989; cnr Meru marily to drinkers in the evening. Keep an
Shehnai Restaurant (Map p314; %224801; Fatemi to drown out. Rd & Mwindani Rd; buffet lunch KSh450; hMon-Sat) A eye out for flyers advertising reggae concerts
House, Maungano Rd; mains from KSh290; hnoon-2pm & Little Chef Dinners Pub (Map p314; %222740; Swiss-run place, with excellent ice cream and other events.
7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun) Mombasa’s classiest curry Moi Ave; mains KSh100-210) Thankfully this funky and popular lunchtime buffets, usually con- New Florida Nightclub (%313127; Mama Ngina Dr;
house specialises in tandoori and mugh- green-hued pub-restaurant has nothing to sisting of a mixture of Indian and Western admission men/women KSh150/70; h24hr; s) This
lai (north Indian) cuisine, and has a huge do with the British motorway diners of the dishes. À-la-carte staples such as spaghetti vast seafront complex houses Mombasa’s
menu, complimented by a tasteful line in same name, dishing up big, tasty portions are also served. liveliest nightclub, which boasts its own ca-
drapery. It’s very popular with well-heeled of Kenyan and international dishes from sino, restaurants and even an open-air swim-
Indian families, and the food is authentic pilau to stroganoff. The 1st-floor bar has a QUICK EATS ming pool. It’s owned by the same people as
and very good. pool table and a great breezy balcony, one of There are dozens of inexpensive local cafés the infamous Florida clubs in Nairobi, and
Splendid View Restaurant (Map p314; %5487270; the most relaxed places in town for a beer. and restaurants serving quick meals and offers much the same atmosphere, clientele
K E N YA
K E N YA
[email protected]; Maungano Rd; mains There are a couple more outlets in the area, snacks. Street food is an even faster option: and Las Vegas–style floorshows. A taxi fare
KSh100-300; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-10.30pm) You’ll but this is by far the nicest. stalls around town sell snacks like cassava, here is around KSh400.
be looking in vain if you expect magnifi- Baron Restaurant & Pub (Map p314; %314971; samosas, bhajis and kebabs, while a few Office (Map p312; %451700; Shelly Beach Rd, Likoni)
cent vistas from the street seating here – the Digo Rd; mains KSh250-650) While it appears at set up trestle tables to dish out stew and Perched above the Likoni ferry jetty and
name merely refers to the Splendid Hotel first like a pretty average drinking hall, a ugali (maize meal). For dessert, vendors can matatu stand, the entirely unaptly named
opposite. Luckily the food compensates glance at Baron’s ambitious menu reveals a ply you with haluwa (an Omani version Office is a real locals’ hang-out, with regular
for this sly misnomer, covering styles from lot more than cold Tusker passing through of Turkish delight), fried taro roots, sweet massive reggae and dub nights shaking the
tandoori to Chinese-influenced pili pili, a the kitchen. Crocodile, ostrich, guinea fowl baobab seeds and sugared donuts. thatched rafters.
kind of curry. and lobster (KSh1750) all feature, and even Blue Room Restaurant (Map p314; %224021; Casablanca Restaurant & Club (Map p314; Mnazi
New Chetna Restaurant (Map p314; %224477; the drinks list takes up a page or two. Haile Selassie Rd; snacks KSh20-50, mains KSh110-325; i) Moja Rd; admission KSh50-100) Amid the makuti and
Haile Selassie Rd; mains KSh200-300) This is a very Siesta Bar & Restaurant (Map p312; %474896; The Blue Room is hugely popular for its fast cartoon animals, this loud split-level bar-club
popular South Indian canteen restaurant Nyali Rd, Nyali; mains KSh350-600; hfrom 5pm Tue- food, from cakes and sandwiches to cur- pulls in plenty of Westerners, but also a lot of
with a long list of vegetarian goodies, in- Sun) You say mzungu (white person), they ries, steaks and pizza. Drinks are made with prostitutes – all-male groups will be mobbed
cluding masala dosa (curried vegetables say gringo…we just say olé – this is quite filtered water, and there are no fewer than mercilessly, especially on the dance floor.
inside a lentil-flour pancake) and idli (rice possibly the only Mexican restaurant in two back-up generators in case of power Toyz Disco (Map p314; %313931; Baluchi St; admis-
dumpling). The various thali are great East Africa, set in a fine garden above the cuts! There’s also a highly recommended sion KSh100) A loud and lively Kenyan night-
value. harbour by the Nyali Bridge. It’s great for ice-cream parlour. spot just off Nkrumah Rd. The ‘Be Casual’
a sunset beer and the near-authentic food Fayaz Baker & Confectioners (Map p314; %220382; sign outside announces in graphic form
Chinese comes highly recommended. Jomo Kenyatta Ave) Mombasa’s ‘Master Baker’ that drugs, nudity, fighting and weapons
New Overseas Chinese-Korean Restaurant & Bar Fontanella Steakhouse & Beer Garden (Map p314; cooks up excellent cakes and muffins in sev- are banned, which seems to work as it’s
(Map p312; % 230729; Moi Ave; mains KSh220-480) %222740; City House, Moi Ave; mains KSh100-250) A eral locations around town; great for break- perfectly friendly inside. Admission is free
Despite the overblown name and the hil- popular open-air place in a courtyard off fast on the run or a leisurely mid-morning for women. Expect plenty of gangsta rap
ariously clichéd interior design, the New Moi Ave, with nyama choma, steaks and snack. and jangly Congolese music.
Overseas delivers on its Oriental promises Western offerings, such as spag bol. There’s
and is particularly strong on seafood; a full a large birdcage for entertainment, though SELF-CATERING Entertainment
Chinese or Korean feast will cost you up without many outside lights you can hardly Nakumatt supermarket (Map p312; %228945; Ny- Nyali Cinemax (Map p312; %470000; info@nyalicinemax
to KSh1000. see it (or the menus) at night. erere Ave) Close to the Likoni ferry, with an .com; Nyali Centre, Nyali Rd, Nyali; tickets KSh250-350) A
China Town Restaurant (Map p314; %315098; Rozina House Restaurant (Map p314; %311107; astounding selection of provisions, drinks, plush, modern cinema complex close to
Nyerere Ave; mains KSh400-600) More incredibly Moi Ave; mains KSh500-1200) Walk along Moi Ave consumer goods and hardware items, just in Tamarind, also incorporating a casino, sports
chintzy décor, more great Korean and Chi- in the evening and you’re bound to be ap- case you need a TV, bicycle or lawnmower bar, cybercafé, Indian deli and restaurant,
nese food. It’s opposite the Holy Ghost proached by touts for this would-be upmar- to go with your groceries. plus a bowling alley.
Cathedral on Nyerere Ave. ket eatery. The food is reputedly good, but Main market (Map p314; Digo Rd) Mombasa’s Kenya Cinema (Map p314; %312355; Nkrumah Ave;
if you’ve just been dragged in off the street dilapidated ‘covered’ market building, for- tickets stalls/balcony KSh120/150) An appealing old
International the prices are distinctly off-putting. Cheaper merly the Mackinnon Market, is packed cinema that screens Hindi movies regularly
Tamarind Restaurant (Map p312; %471747; Silos meals are available at the café next door. with stalls selling fresh fruit and vegetables. (usually with English subtitles) and Western
Rd, Nyali; lobster per 100g KSh330, mains KSh900-1800) Roaming produce carts also congregate in blockbusters occasionally.
Perhaps the finest of the various Tamarind CAFÉS the surrounding streets, and dozens of
ventures. Eating on the terrace of this grand Cozy Inn (Map p312; %0733-925707; Kibokoni Rd; mains miraa (bundles of leafy twigs and shoots Getting There & Away
Moorish building overlooking the water is a KSh80-195; i) A rare new addition to the Old that are chewed as a stimulant and appetite- AIR
romantic splurge you can’t afford to miss. Town scene, this friendly little café’s clas- suppressant) sellers join the fray when the Flights are available with Kenya Airways (Map
Seafood is the focus, but meat eaters won’t sical music soothes the senses as you surf regular deliveries come in. p314; %221251; www.kenya-airways.com; TSS Towers,
320 T H E C OA S T • • M o m b a s a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • S h i m b a H i l l s N a t i o n a l R e s e r v e 321
Nkrumah Rd) between Nairobi and Mombasa’s around 7am (report 30 minutes early) from MATATU
Moi International Airport (%433211) at least six their offices on Abdel Nasser Rd. Buses take Matatus charge KSh10 to KSh20 for short SAFETY ON THE COAST
times daily (KSh6835, one hour). around seven hours to reach the Lamu ferry hops. For the Likoni ferry and Nakumatt Security along the coast has improved in
Mombasa Air Safari (%433061; www.mombasaair at Mokoke (KSh400 to 500), stopping in supermarket, loads of matatus run south recent years, but you still need to be careful
safari.com; Moi International Airport) flies to Malindi Malindi (KSh150, two hours). along Nyerere Ave to the transport stand by around the popular resorts. Muggings are a
(US$21, 25 minutes), Lamu (US$90, 1¼ the ferry terminal. risk on the minor roads that run between
hours), and Amboseli (US$220, one hour), Heading South the main highway and the various beach
Tsavo (US$220, on request) and Maasai For buses and matatus to the beaches south TAXI hotels. Take a taxi or matatu, particularly
Mara (US$229) National Parks. of Mombasa you first need to get off the Mombasa taxis are just as expensive as those at night.
island via the Likoni ferry (see below). Very in Nairobi, only harder to find. Assume it’ll All the resorts and cottages on the coast
BUS & MATATU frequent buses and matatus leave from the cost KSh200 to KSh300 from the train sta- employ askaris (guards) to keep out unde-
Nairobi mainland ferry terminal and travel down the tion to the city centre. sirables, but once you’re on the beach it’s
There are dozens of daily departures in either southern coast. easy to become a target for ‘snatch and run’
direction (mostly in the early morning and SHIMBA HILLS NATIONAL RESERVE
K E N YA
crimes. Leave watches, wallets, jewellery
K E N YA
late evening). Recommended companies: TRAIN This 320-sq-km reserve (adult/child US$23/10; and other items of value in your room.
Akamba (Map p314; %490269; Jomo Kenyatta Ave) The popular overnight train to/from Nai- h6am-6pm) lies directly inland from Diani Beach boys – young Kenyan men who
Busscar (Map p314; %222854; Abdel Nasser Rd) robi is a great place to meet other travellers Beach and covers a wonderful landscape walk up and down the beaches selling every-
Busstar (Map p314; Nairobi %02-219525; Abdel and hook up for safaris or travel on the of steep-sided valleys, rolling hills and lush thing from woodcarvings to marijuana and
Nasser Rd) coast. Trains leave from Mombasa at 7pm pockets of tropical rainforest, rated one sexual favours – are a fact of life at the big
Coastline Safaris (Map p314; %312083; Mwembe on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday, arriving of the country’s best surviving biodiver- resorts and their dogged persistence can be
Tayari St) the next day somewhere between 8.30am sity zones. The hills are home to a healthy wearing. All you can do is refuse politely;
Falcon (Map p314; Nairobi %02-229662) Offices on and 11am. The fares are KSh3160/2275 in population of leopards and a vast abun- they should move on quickly.
Abdel Nasser Rd and Jomo Kenyatta Ave. 1st/2nd class with dinner, breakfast and dance of birdlife, and you may also spot
Mash Express (Map p314; %491955; Jomo Ken- bedding; reserve as far in advance as possi- the reserve’s most famous resident, the rare
yatta Ave) ble. The booking office (%312220; h8am-5pm) sable antelope. This tall, regal antelope has Sleeping
Mombasa Raha (Map p314; %225716) Offices on is at the station in Mombasa. a striking black-and-white coat and long, Shimba Rainforest Lodge (%040-4077; Kinango Rd;
Abdel Nasser Rd and Jomo Kenyatta Ave. curved horns, and is now protected after full board with shared bathroom per person US$120) A
Msafiri (Map p312; %314691; Aga Khan Rd) Getting Around the population plummeted to less than 120 good Treetops-style affair built from in-
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT animals in the 1970s. digenous woods, with a walkway through
Daytime services take at least six hours, There is currently no public transport to/ The other main attraction is the large the rainforest and a viewing platform and
while the overnight trip takes anywhere from from the airport, so you’re best taking a community of elephants. In 2005 numbers bar. Children under seven years are not ad-
eight to 10 hours. Fares vary from KSh500 to taxi; the fare to central Mombasa is around reached an amazing 600, far too many for mitted. The floodlit waterhole here attracts
KSh1000. Most companies have at least four KSh650. Coming from the city centre, the this tiny space; instead of culling the herds, quite a lot of wildlife, including leopards.
departures daily. usual fare is KSh800, but you’ll have to bar- KWS organised an unprecedented US$3.2 Mukurumuji Tented Camp (%040-2412; www
All buses travel via Voi (KSh300), which gain down from KSh1000. million translocation operation, capturing .dianihouse.com; full board per person US$94) Set on a
is also served by frequent matatus from the no fewer than 400 elephants and moving forested hill, this place is perched above the
Kobil petrol station on Jomo Kenyatta Ave BOAT them to Tsavo East National Park. Mukurumuji River on the southern bound-
(KSh200). The two Likoni ferries connect Mombasa Highly recommended guided forest ary of the park. Guests can enjoy walking
Island with the southern mainland, running walks are run by the KWS (%040-4159; PO Box trips along the river and to Sheldrick Falls.
Heading North at frequent intervals throughout the day and 30, Kwale) from the Sheldrick Falls ranger post Transfers from Diani cost US$10 each way.
Red Metro Mombasa city buses run north night. It’s free to pedestrians and KSh35 for at the southern end of the park down to sce- The public campsite (per person US$8) and excel-
from the Likoni ferry, which lands roughly a car. To get to the jetty from the centre, take nic Sheldrick Falls on the Machenmwana lent round bandas (per person US$20) are superbly
every 45 minutes, passing through town on a Likoni matatu from Digo Rd (KSh10). River. Walks are free but a tip would be located on the edge of an escarpment close
Digo Rd and heading to Mtwapa (KSh30, 40 appropriate. to the main gate, with stunning views down
minutes) or Malindi (KSh120, two hours). CAR & MOTORCYCLE One more initiative that should be fully to Diani Beach. It’s also possible to camp at
There are numerous daily matatus and Recommended car-hire companies in Mom- operational by the time you read this is Hunter’s Camp, close to Sheldrick Falls.
small minibuses up the coast to Malindi, basa include the following: the Shimba Hills Triangular Forest project, a
leaving from in front of the Noor Mosque on Avenue Motors (Map p312; %225126; Moi Ave) community initiative run by the forest Getting There & Away
Abdel Nasser Rd. Buses take up to 2½ hours Avis (Map p312; %314950; Southern House, Moi Ave) guides on the northeastern boundary of You’ll need a 4WD to enter the Shimba Hills
(KSh100), matatus about two hours (KSh120). Budget (%221281; [email protected]; the reserve. This biologically rich area is National Reserve. From Likoni, small mini-
You can also catch an ‘express’ matatu Moi International Airport) being developed as an ecotourism attrac- buses (number 34) to Kwale pass the main
(KSh150), which takes longer to fill up, but is Glory Car Hire (Map p312; %313561; Moi Ave) Insur- tion, with 90-minute tours taking in a rep- gate (KSh40). Most visitors come on over-
then supposedly nonstop all the way. ance excess costs KSh150,000. lica kaya (sacred forest) shrine, troupes of night safari packages, but the Mukurumuji
Tawakal, Falcon, Mombasa Raha and TSS Hertz (%4332405; [email protected]; Moi resident Sykes monkeys and over 40 species Tented Camp can organise transfers from
Express have buses to Lamu, most leaving at International Airport) of butterfly. Diani Beach.
322 T H E C OA S T • • M w a l u g a n j e E l e p h a n t S a n c t u a r y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • D i a n i B e a c h & U k a n d a 323
Tiwi & Diani Beaches
MWALUGANJE ELEPHANT SANCTUARY Sand Island Beach Cottages (%3300043; www TIWI & DIANI BEACHES
0
0
3 km
2 miles
This sanctuary (%040-41121; nonresident adult/child .sandislandtiwi.com; cottages low season KSh2750-5500,
US$15/2, vehicles KSh150-500; h6am-6pm) is a good high season KSh3000-6050) A lively posse of dogs A B C D
28
To Mombasa (15km);
example of community-based conservation enhances the warm welcome you’ll get at Kwale (30km);
Shimba Hills National 27
and most local people are stakeholders in these lovely colonial-style cottages, set in a Reserve (35km)
Tiwi
Beach
INDIAN
the project. It was opened in October 1995 tidy garden at the northern end of the beach. 1 38 Tiwi 16 OCEAN
30
to create a corridor along an ancient ele- Nearby Sand Island is a lovely place to relax 35
INFORMATION Diani Marine Village..................20 B3
phant migration route between the Shimba and catch some sun. Barclays Bank..........................(see 12) Diani Reef Beach Resort.............21 B2
24 Cliff
Hills National Reserve and the Mwaluganje Maweni Beach Cottages (%3300012; www.maweni
a
em
CMS Cybercafé...........................1 A2 Forest Dream Cottages..............22 B3
ver
Beach
ach
Diani Beach Hospital....................2 B2 Glory Palace Hotel.....................23 A2
Ri
Forest Reserve, and comprises 2400 hectares beach.com; cottages low season KSh2000-4700, high season
Mw
Diani Beach Post Office...............3 A2 Indian Ocean Beach Club...........24 B1
of rugged, beautiful country along the valley KSh2500-5200) Owned by the Tiwi Beach Resort, 21 Diani Forex Bureau......................4 B3 Kijiji Cottages.............................25 B2
Hot Gossip...................................5 B2 Leisure Lodge Beach Resort.......26 B2
of the Cha Shimba River. this place consists of attractive makuti-roofed 34
Diani Beach
i-Point.....................................(see 12) Maweni Beach Cottages............27 B1
More than 150 elephants live in the sanc- cottages overlooking a peaceful cove, with 17 2
26 Kenya Commercial Bank..............6 A2 Moonlight Bay Cottages..........(see 28)
Police Station..............................7 A2 Sand Island Beach Cottages.......28 B1
tuary and you’re likely to see a large variety a choice of garden or sea views. There’s no
K E N YA
25
K E N YA
1 36 23 14
Postbank...................................(see 5) Shaanti Holistic Health Retreat...29 B3
of other fauna and flora, including rare cycad direct beach frontage, but facilities are good. 2 12 Ukunda Post Office.....................8 B2 Tiwi Beach Resort......................30 B1
Ukunda
Twiga Lodge...........................(see 16)
forest. (This primitive, palmlike plant species Moonlight Bay Cottages (%3300040; cottages low 7 32
5 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Vindigo Cottages.......................31 B2
3
is over 300 million years old.) There’s a good season KSh3000-5400, high season KSh3400-6200) Just 6 31 Colobus Trust..............................9 B3
Diani Marine..............................10 B2 EATING
8
information centre close to the main gate next door to Sand Island, this is a decent Airstrip
18
Diving The Crab.........................11 B3 African Pot II.............................32 A2
10
and a second ticket office on the outskirts option, with well-equipped one- to three- Dolphin Dhow...........................12 B2 African Pot Restaurant............(see 25)
Diani Beach Rd
A14 20 H20 Extreme...........................(see 11) Ali Barbour's Cave Restaurant...33 B3
of Kwale. Don’t miss the chance to buy the bedroom cottages and a shady open-air bar- 33 Ketty Tours...............................(see 5) Galaxy Chinese Restaurant........34 B2
Kisite Dhow Tours......................13 B3 Globe International Restaurant..(see 5)
unique postcards and paper goods as sou- restaurant area. 15
Pilli-Pipa....................................14 B2 Nagina Supermarket..................35 A1
venirs for the folks back home – they’re all Coral Cove Cottages (%3205195; coralcove.tiwi 9
Rongai Fast Food.......................36 A2
37 SLEEPING Shan-e-Punjab Restaurant.......(see 34)
made from recycled elephant dung! beach.com; cottages KSh3500-5200) A fantastically 13
Africana Sea Lodge....................15 B3
The main entrance to the sanctuary is friendly place, with a wide variety of comfy, 3 11
Coral Beach Cottages..............(see 25) DRINKING
Coral Cove Cottages..................16 B1 Forty Thieves Beach Bar..........(see 33)
about 13km northeast of Shimba Hills Na- nicely decorated cottages sleeping one to 22
29
Corner Guest House..................17 A2 Shakatak....................................37 B3
To Pinewood 19
tional Reserve on the road to Kinango. A five people. The larger cottages have kitch- Village Resort
Diani Beach Campsite &
To Shimoni (40km); (3km); Aqualand Cottages................................18 B2 TRANSPORT
shorter route runs from Kwale to the Golini ens, and cooks/cleaners can be hired for Tanzania (3km); Kaya Diani Beachalets.........................19 B3 Bus Stop for Tiwi........................38 A1
Kinondo (12km) 4
gate, passing the Mwaluganje ticket office. KSh500 per day.
It’s only 5km, but the track is 4WD only. Twiga Lodge (%3205126; camping KSh200, s/d
KSh800/1500, cottages KSh1500) The only really either track down to Tiwi (KSh30); keep an is as good as you’ll find anywhere on the
TIWI BEACH backpacker-oriented place in Tiwi, Twiga eye out for the sign to Tiwi Beach Resort. Kenyan coast.
%040 is a good place to meet younger independ- The southern turn-off by the supermarket,
This wonderfully undeveloped beach is ent travellers. Accommodation runs from known locally as Tiwi ‘spot’, is much easier Orientation
reached by two dirt roads that wind their the beachfront camp site and basic four-bed to find. The town of Ukunda, which is on the main
way through the coastal scrub about 20km cottages to the superior ‘show rooms’ (B&B Although it’s only 3.5km to the beach, Mombasa–Tanzania road, is the turn-off
south of Likoni. It’s a world away from the KSh3000 to KSh4500). Local taxi drivers both access roads are notorious for mug- point for Diani Beach. It has a post office, a
bustle down the road at Diani Beach, and tout quite heavily for this place, and there gings, so be sure to take a taxi (KSh300) or bank, several shops, and a number of basic
while the seclusion does mean you have to always seems to be a crowd of hangers- hang around for a lift. lodging houses and restaurants. From there,
be a bit careful walking around, it’s worth on; you’d be sensible not to leave valuables Palm Ave runs about 2.5km to a T-junction
it for the real sense of peace and quiet on lying around. DIANI BEACH & UKUNDA with the beach road, where you’ll find every-
the beautiful white-sand beach. Tiwi Beach Resort (%3202801; www.tiwibeach %040 thing Diani has to offer.
Tiwi is a tranquil haven but it’s still very resort.com; half board s/d low season US$46/79, high As the principal package resort on the
popular with those in the know, so you season US$54/96; ais) This vast package- southern coast, Diani Beach tends to in- Information
should book well ahead if you intend to visit holiday complex is the diametric opposite spire mixed feelings among its various visi- EMERGENCY
during the high season. Beach boys and sou- of the little family-run concerns here, with tors. There’s certainly not much Kenyan Diani Beach Hospital (%3202435; www.dianibeach
venir sellers are fairly prevalent at the south- long whitewashed accommodation blocks, about the massive hotel complexes that line hospital.com; h24hr)
ern end of Tiwi, but are almost unheard of three restaurants, a nightclub and a rather the long beach, but the setting as a whole Police (%3202121, 3202229; Ukunda)
at the northern end of the strip. snazzy pool design. is certainly more exotic than your average
Nagina supermarket (A14 Hwy) Near the turn- Mediterranean holiday strip; the inland INTERNET ACCESS
Sleeping & Eating off to the Tiwi Beach Hotel, self-caterers parks and southern islands are within easy CMS Cybercafé (Palm Ave, Ukunda; per min KSh1.50;
Unlike the all-inclusive resorts at Diani, self- can pick up supplies here. reach; and the number of activities on offer h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-7pm Sun)
catering is the name of the game here. The should be enough to keep even the most Hot Gossip (%3203307; wellconnectednet@hotgossip
options are divided into two groups, linked Getting There & Away cynical tourist from grumbling. If you’re .co.ke; Legend Casino Complex; per min KSh5; h9am-
by a bumpy track just inland from the beach Any buses and matatus on the Likoni– just out for a drink, a laugh and a bit of time 6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) Also offers international
(walking is not recommended). Ukunda road can drop you at the start of out between ‘serious’ travel, the atmosphere phone and fax services.
324 T H E C OA S T • • D i a n i B e a c h & U k a n d a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • D i a n i B e a c h & U k a n d a 325
MONEY courses cost €490, and reef trips with two MIDRANGE Reef is well executed in every respect and
Barclays Bank (%3202448; Barclays Centre) dives cost €90. Most dive sites here are under All of Diani’s other accommodation is boasts excellent facilities, including a health
Diani Forex Bureau (%3203595) 29m and there’s even a purposely sunk ship- spread out along the beach road. Unless club, casino, water slide, six bars, three
Kenya Commercial Bank (%3202197; Ukunda) wreck, the 15m former fishing boat MFV otherwise indicated, all places in this cat- presidential suites and an open-air disco.
Postbank (Diani shopping centre) Western Union money Alpha Funguo, at 28m. egory are self-catering. The rooms themselves are nicely laid out,
transfers. Main operators: Kijiji Cottages (%3300035; [email protected]; with spotless bathrooms and ethernet con-
Diani Marine (%3203450; www.dianimarine.com; cottages KSh5000-7000; s) These big, character- nections, and there’s good disabled access.
POST Diani Marine Village) Very professional German-run centre ful cottages, sleeping up to five people, are Indian Ocean Beach Club (% 3203730; www
Diani Beach post office (Diani Beach Rd) with its own accommodation (see opposite). set along winding paths in their own garden .jacarandahotels.com; full board s/d low season US$96/150,
Ukunda post office (Ukunda) Diving The Crab (%3202003; www.divingthecrab.com; complex, giving them an exclusive feel. Even high season US$130/200; nais) A tasteful,
Nomads complex) The most commonly used outfit for the better, the secluded beach is often cut off low-key hotel in a Moorish style, near the
TOURIST INFORMATION big hotels. Offers the cheapest open-water course (€350). from the beach boys by the tide. Rates drop mouth of the Mwachema River. It’s one of
i-Point (%3202234; Barclays Centre; h8.30am-6pm by KSh1000 in May and June but almost the more sensitively designed places, con-
double over Christmas and New Year. sisting of 100 cottage-style rooms. Rooms
K E N YA
Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat) Private information office with
K E N YA
WATER SPORTS
plenty of brochures. Also sells the slightly dated Diani With such a long stretch of beach, water Coral Beach Cottages (%3202205; cottages low have minibars and baths, and some are spe-
Beach Tourist-Guide (KSh50). sports are unsurprisingly popular, and every- season KSh4000-5000, high season KSh7000-10,000) Just cially equipped for disabled guests.
thing from banana boats to jet skis are on north of the junction, Coral Beach has large, Leisure Lodge Beach Resort (%3203624; www
Dangers & Annoyances offer. As with diving, all the big hotels either well-appointed cottages set in a neat garden. .leisurelodgeresort.com; s/d low season from €64/100,
Crime is an occasional problem at Diani; see have their own equipment (for common ac- The atmosphere is pleasant and relaxed, and high season from €110/144; aisc) Bring
p321 for more information. Souvenir sell- tivities, such as snorkelling and windsurfing) the excellent African Pot Restaurant (p326) your sense of direction if you want to stay
ers around the shopping centres are a daily or arrange bookings with local firms. is right at the entrance gate. here: the complex is so vast it’s practically
nuisance. Main operators: Diani Marine Village (%3202367; www.dianimarine a small town in its own right, and even the
H20 Extreme (%0721-495876; www.h20-extreme.com; .com; s/d low season €25/30, high season €30/35) Al- staff sometimes have to consult the handy
Sights Nomads complex) though primarily a dive resort, the huge guest pathside maps! The sports facilities are par-
As a beach resort Diani isn’t exactly geared Wet & Wild (%0722-705350; www.wetandwilddiani rooms are appealing, with fans, stone floors ticularly good and include an 18-hole golf
towards cultural tourism, but there are a few .com; Aqualand, Pinewood Village Resort) and four-poster mosquito nets. Unlike most course. Offers some disabled access.
interesting spots worth seeking out. places in this class it’s not self-catering. Shaanti Holistic Health Retreat (%3202064;
The Colobus Trust (%3203519; www.colobustrust Sleeping Vindigo Cottages (%3202192; vindigocottages@ [email protected]; low season s KSh7000-7900, d
.org; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat), a conservation project BUDGET kenyaweb.com; cottages low season KSh1500-3500, high KSh12,200-13,700, high season s KSh11,500-13,300, d
aimed at protecting Diani’s population of en- Corner Guest House (%3203355; Ukunda; s/d with season KSh2000-4000) A rather sweet collection KSh19,400-22,300; as) This brand-new Ayur-
dangered colobus monkeys, offers informa- shared bathroom KSh400/500) If you really need of little orange cottages sloping down to the vedic sanctuary is the antithesis of the usual
tive guided walks (KSh500) from its research to sleep cheap, Ukunda’s your only option. sea, each sleeping between two and eight resort blocks, appealing to New Agers and
station off the southern part of Diani Beach This is the best of a number of basic lodgings people. There are no fans but the sea breeze pleasure seekers alike. There are just eight
Rd. They provide an excellent introduction near the Diani junction; rooms are simple keeps you cool, and all the cottages have rooms, designed and decorated in a dis-
to the coral rainforest habitat and a good but clean, with fans and piped music until mosquito nets. tinctly Indian-influenced sandstone style.
chance of seeing other indigenous wildlife midnight. Add KSh50 from November to Diani Beachalets (%3202180; dianibeachalets@ Rates include the full-day’s yoga spa pro-
alongside the resident monkeys. March. Breakfast is available for KSh200. wananchi.com; bandas per person KSh550, cottages low sea- gram; other packages are available, and non-
Inaugurated in 2001, Kaya Kinondo (%0722- Diani Beach Campsite & Cottages (%3203192; son KSh900-2500, high season KSh1300-3400) Towards guests can also visit for the various classes
344426; [email protected]) is a superb [email protected]; camping low/high season the southern end of the strip, this place is and treatments.
grass-roots ecotourism project south of KSh300/400, cottages low season KSh1500-2500, high a little old, but offers plenty of space. The Forest Dream Cottages (%3203224; www.forest
Diani. Guided walks take you through the season KSh3000-6000) The only budget choice accommodation options vary hugely, from dreamcottages.com; cottages €124-290; as ) If
kaya itself, a forest sacred to the Digo peo- anywhere near the beach, although unless two-person bandas to four-bedroom sea- you’re not bothered about the beach, For-
ple, and include visits to a traditional village, you’re camping, even the low-season prices front cottages with kitchen. est Dream is a fantastic luxury choice, set
a tribal medicine man and the main primary are steep. The tent space is a small, simple in an actual forest reserve. The six thatched
school. The local community is involved lawn site with toilets and an eating area. The TOP END houses are set up to an excellent standard;
at every level, managing the conservation compact cottages sleep up to four people. There are at least 13 flashy resort com- koi ponds, Jacuzzis and fully fitted kitchens
process, training guides, and producing Glory Palace Hotel (%3203392; Palm Ave; low plexes spread out along the beach strip. are just some of the other treats on offer.
crafts and other goods for sale to visitors. season s KSh800, d KSh1200-2000, tr 2000, high season Unless otherwise stated, prices listed are all- Pinewood Village Resort (%3203720; www.pine
s KSh1000, d KSh2000-3000, tr KSh2500; as) Not inclusive rates for standard rooms. Note wood-village.com; half board s/d US$79/112, ste US$164;
Activities exactly a bargain but the cheapest hotel op- that many of these places close for renova- aisc) On Galu Beach, down past
DIVING tion for solo travellers, and at least you get tion between May and June. the far end of the Diani strip, this tasteful,
All the big resorts either have their own dive breakfast, security and use of the swimming Diani Reef Beach Resort (%3202723; www.diani comprehensively equipped villa resort is run
schools or work with a local operator. Rates pool for your money. With constant mata- reef.com; half board s/d low season from US$100/160, high by Southern Cross Safaris. The Aqualand
are fairly standard: Professional Association tus passing by, it’s easy to get to the beach season from US$190/250; aisc) One of the water-sports centre (%3202719) is one of
of Diving Instructors (PADI) open-water strip or the Ukunda transport stage. sharpest resorts on the south coast, Diani the best in the area.
326 T H E C OA S T • • S h i m o n i & W a s i n i I s l a n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • M o m b a s a t o K i l i f i 327
Eating but can be fun once you know what to ex- reasonable chance of seeing dolphins in the slice of elegant colonial style, with a hand-
African Pot Restaurant (%3203890; Coral Beach Cot- pect. Like most big Kenyan clubs, food is Shimoni Channel, and humpback whales ful of airy cottages set around a swimming
tages; mains KSh200-220) Meals work to a simple served at all hours. are sometimes spotted between August and pool. Deep-sea fishing is almost manda-
formula: you order your meat (chicken, beef October. tory here; boats cost from US$500 for nine
or goat), then choose from one of five or Getting There & Around It’s easy to organise your own boat trip with hours (valid for up to four fishers).
six ways to have it prepared and add any AIR a local captain; the going rate is KSh1500 per Coral Reef Lodge (%52015; www.oneearthsafaris
accompaniments you like. The house spe- Mombasa Air Safari’s routes to Lamu and the person or KSh6000 per boat, including lunch .com; Shimoni; per person low season US$52/64, high season
ciality, karanga, a tomato-based sauce with southern national parks originate in Diani, and a walk in the coral gardens on Wasini US$80/104; s) A pleasant resort-type place on
garlic, coriander and onions cooked in a real passing through Mombasa (see p319). Island. Masks and snorkels can be hired for a bluff overlooking the Shimoni Channel.
earthenware pot, is highly recommended. KSh200. A good place to start looking for a
There’s another branch (African Pot II) on BUS & MATATU boatman is the office of KWS (%52027; h6am- Getting There & Around
Palm Ave. Numerous matatus run south from the 6pm), about 200m south of the main pier. There are matatus every hour or so between
Ali Barbour’s Cave Restaurant (%3202033; mains Likoni ferry directly to Ukunda (KSh50, 30 The best time to dive and snorkel is be- Likoni and Shimoni (KSh100, one hour)
KSh550-900; hfrom 7pm) A very sophisticated minutes) and further south. From the Diani tween October and March. Avoid June, July until about 6pm. It’s best to be at Likoni by
K E N YA
K E N YA
semi-open restaurant built into a cave near junction in Ukunda, matatus run down to and August because of rough seas, silt and 6.30am if you want to get to Shimoni in time
the Diani Sea Resort. Seafood is the main the beach all day for KSh20. poor visibility. to catch one of the dhow sailings.
attraction, with lobster at KSh1800. Use the The price of getting across the channel to
courtesy bus or take a taxi as people have TAXI Tours Wasini Island depends to a degree on who
been mugged walking down the track. Taxis hang around Ukunda junction and all Various companies offer organised dhow you meet on arrival, how many are in your
Galaxy Chinese Restaurant (%3202529; Diani the main shopping centres; most hotels and tours for snorkelling, all leaving Shimoni by group and how affluent you look. Crossings
Complex; mains KSh305-615; hnoon-6.30pm) A smart restaurants will also have a couple waiting at 9am. Transfers from north- and south-coast should cost KSh300 to KSh500 each way, less
Chinese restaurant with an outdoor ‘island’ night. Fares should cost KSh150 to KSh650, hotels are available (US$10 to US$20), and if you negotiate return journeys.
pavilion bar and seating area. Courtesy bus depending on distance. longer trips with overnight stays can also be
available. arranged. Certified divers can take one/two MOMBASA TO KILIFI
Shan-e-Punjab Restaurant (%3202116; Diani SHIMONI & WASINI ISLAND scuba dives for an extra US$30/50 with any %041
Complex; mains KSh300-600) A very popular Indian %040 of these companies. Like the south coast, the coastline north of
restaurant opposite the Diani Reef Beach The village of Shimoni sits at the tip of a Main operators: Mombasa has been extensively developed,
Resort. A wide range of curries are on offer, small peninsula about 76km south of Likoni. Dolphin Dhow (Map p323; %52255, office 3202144; although this trails off once you get north of
including some vegetarian options. Dhow tours to nearby Wasini Island and the www.dolphindhow.com; office Barclays Centre, Diani Shanzu Beach. It’s mostly set up for Euro-
Globe International Restaurant (%0733-740938; coral reefs of Kisite Marine National Park Beach; tours US$75) pean package tourists on all-inclusive holi-
Diani Beach shopping centre; mains KSh380-850) As the have become a big industry here. They’re Kisite Dhow Tours (%3202331; www.wasini-island days, but there are some decent choices for
name suggests, the Globe spans a number well run, but you can easily organise your .com; office Jadini Beach Hotel, Diani Beach; tours US$55- independent travellers.
of far-flung cuisines, though much of the own trip directly with the boatmen. 75) Popular ecotourist trips. The northern beaches are also dogged
emphasis is on good old British cooking. Pilli-Pipa (%3202401; www.pillipipa.com; office Colliers by seaweed at certain times of the year.
Rongai Fast Food (Palm Ave, Ukunda) Head for the Sights Centre, Diani Beach; tours US$80) Diving trips from US$130. They are usually clear between December
painted flames to sample this local butchery Villagers have opened up the old slave caves and April, but at other times the sand can
restaurant, highly recommended for nyama (adult/child KSh100/25; h8.30-10.30am & 1.30-6pm) as Sleeping & Eating vanish under piles of black seaweed. The
choma. You can also buy fresh meat for a tourist attraction, with a custodian who’ll Mpunguti Lodge (%52288; Wasini Island; camping expensive resort hotels employ people to
beach barbecues here. take you around the dank caverns to illus- KSh300, half board r with shared bathroom per person burn or bury the troublesome weed on the
Self-caterers can stock up at the super- trate this little-discussed part of East African KSh1200) This is the only accommodation in beach.
markets in Diani’s shopping centres, or at history. Wasini village. The rooms are uncompli- Going north from Mombasa, the beaches
any of the shops, dukas and market stalls Wasini Island is at its most appealing in cated, with mosquito nets and small veran- are Nyali, Bamburi, Shanzu, Kikambala and
in Ukunda. the peace of the evening. There are several das; water comes from rain barrels. You’ll Vipingo.
worthwhile things to see, including some an- need to bring towels, soap and any alcoholic
Drinking & Entertainment cient Swahili ruins and the coral gardens (adult/ drinks from the mainland. Sights & Activities
Forty Thieves Beach Bar (%3203419) Part of the child KSh100/20), a bizarre landscape of exposed Camp Eden (%52027; KWS, Shimoni; camping adult/ MAMBA VILLAGE CROCODILE FARM
Ali Barbour empire, this is easily the best bar coral reefs with a boardwalk for viewing. child US$8/5, bandas per person US$10) Behind KWS A rather bizarre combination of commer-
on the strip, frequented on a daily basis by headquarters, this camping ground offers cial crocodile farm, animal park, sports
a crowd of expats and regulars known affec- KISITE MARINE NATIONAL PARK accommodation with ‘birdsong and insect bar and nightclub, Mamba Village (%475184;
tionately as the Reprobates. Food is served Just off the south coast of Wasini Island, noise’ in the tropical forest south of the main [email protected]; Links Rd, Nyali Beach;
during the day, and it’s open until the last this marine park (adult/child US$5/2) is one of the jetty. There’s a camp site, a covered cooking nonresident adult/child KSh450/250; h8am-6pm) has
guest leaves, ie pretty damn late. best in Kenya, also incorporating the Mpun- area, pit toilets and showers. around 10,000 scaly inmates baring their
Shakatak (%3203124) Essentially the only guti Marine National Reserve. The park covers Pemba Channel Fishing Club (%0722-205020; teeth for the public. There’s a feeding show
full-on nightclub in Diani not attached to 28 sq km of pristine coral reefs, and offers www.pembachannel.com; Shimoni; full board per person at 5pm, which rouses the lethargic beasts
a hotel, Shakatak is quite hilariously seedy, excellent diving and snorkelling. You have a low season US$85, high season US$150; s) A proper quite dramatically.
328 T H E C OA S T • • B e a c h e s N o r t h o f M o m b a s a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • M o m b a s a t o K i l i f i 329
Beaches North of Mombasa
BEACHES NORTH OF MOMBASA 0
0
2 km
1 mile
BAOBAB ADVENTURE beach, and a choice of appealing bamboo-
The former Bamburi Cement Company finished hotel rooms and self-catering
A B C D plant was a derelict eyesore until the creation rooms (outdoor kitchens).
18
of Baobab Adventure (%5485901; Malindi Rd, Bamburi Fontana (%5487554; Malindi Rd, Bamburi Beach; d
Beach), an ingenious complex of nature trails low/high season KSh2500/3000; as) While the
1 and wildlife sanctuaries. The main attrac- rooms are liveable, the highlight of this small
8
tion is Haller Park (nonresident adult/child KSh450/225; place is the big thatched lobby restaurant
16 h8am-5pm), which includes a wildlife sanctu- (mains KSh420 to KSh700), which resembles
11 ary, crocodile farm, fish farm, reptile park a musty safari lodge stuffed with Africana.
Majengo
and drive-through giraffe compound. The beach is 100m beyond the compound.
The various parts of the Baobab Adven- Continental Beach Cottages (%32190; manasseh@
ture are well signposted from the highway wananchi.com; Kikambala Beach; B&B/full board per person
B8 north from Mombasa and have well-marked KSh950/1450, cottages KSh1700-3850; as) A quiet
bus stops. little place with a beach bar. The cottages
K E N YA
K E N YA
2 are neat and well looked after, with kitchens
JUMBA LA MTWANA and palm gardens facing onto the beach.
3
Just north of Mtwapa Creek is this national Camper’s Haven & Jamboree (%5486954; campers
monument (Mtwapa; adult/child KSh200/100; h8am- [email protected]; Bamburi Beach; camping per tent
6pm). The ruins are from a 15th-century KSh500, r low/high season KSh2500/5500) A large,
Mtwapa Swahili settlement, and some interesting slightly bumpy camping ground going
Mtwapa Creek
structures remain, of which the Mosque by the right up to the beach. Four-person tents are
Sea stands out. A handy guidebook may be available for KSh1500; room prices include
available from the ticket office for KSh20, or breakfast in the low season and half board
3 Mombasa Continental Resort the custodian will happily give you the tour during the high season.
12
for a small gratuity. The site is a 3km walk
down a dirt track, signposted from the high- TOP END
way about 1km north of Mtwapa bridge; a Nyali Beach
taxi there and back should cost KSh200. Voyager Beach Resort (% 475114; www.heritage
13 -eastafrica.com; Barracks Rd; s/d low season US$185/260,
17
Sleeping high season US$230/310; aisc) The naut-
9 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES BUDGET ical theme is possibly stretched a bit far, but
Baobab Adventure.............................1 A5
Haller Park.........................................2 A5
Budget accommodation is in short supply Voyager can happily cruise through life on
4 Jumba la Mtwana...............................3 B2 along this strip, and if you want to be any- its reputation as Nyali’s best luxury resort.
6
Mamba Village Crocodile Farm..........4 A6
Somak Travel.....................................5 A5 where near the beach you’ll need to find the Facilities are comprehensive, prices are all-
20
extra cash to step up a price category. inclusive, staff are well drilled, the grounds
SLEEPING
Bamburi Beach Resort........................6 A4 Kanamai Conference Centre (%32046; kanamai@ are huge and the beach is right there.
25
Camper's Haven & Jamboree.............7 A5 iconnect.co.ke; Kikambala Beach; dm/s/d KSh700/1800/3000, Nyali Beach Hotel (%471541; www.blockhotelske
Continental Beach Cottages................8 B1
Kenyatta Beach Fontana..............................................9 A4 cottages KSh1800-2700) This is a quiet Christian .com; Beach Rd; s/tw low season US$118/147, high season
1
22 Glory Villas.......................................10
Kanamai Conference Centre.............11
A5
B1
conference centre with a tranquil, laid- US$184/234; aisc) At the southern end
5 7 Mombasa Serena Beach Hotel..........12 B3 back atmosphere. Alcohol is prohibited, of the beach, this is Voyager’s main com-
Neptune Beach Resort......................13 B4 but there’s a cafeteria serving breakfast and petition, managing to take up even more
2 26
Nyali Beach Holiday Resorts.............14 A6
5 Mombasa
Nyali Beach Hotel.............................15 A6 meals. All the rooms are simple but com- space and offer even more facilities.
24
Marine
21
Park Royal Reserve Safari & Beach Club....16
Severin Sea Lodge............................17
B1
B4
fortable, and the self-catering cottages are Nyali Beach Holiday Resorts (%472325; nbhr@
23
Nova Shopping
Centre 10 Sun ‘n' Sand Beach Resort................18 B1 particularly immaculate. wananchi.com; Beach Rd; s/d low season KSh3500/5800,
Voyager Beach Resort...................... 19 A6
Whitesands Hotel............................ 20 A4
Glory Villas (%474758; Nyali Beach; s KSh800, d high season KSh4500/6800, cottages from KSh5500;
KSh1200-2000, cottages KSh3000; as) The only aisc) A good option if you want the
EATING
Hong Kong Chinese Restaurant........21 A5 vaguely budget option for miles, this entry Kenyan beach experience without the Euro-
Barracks
La Strega..........................................22 A5 in the Glory empire is a complex of odd con- pean price tag. It’s less luxurious than the
La Veranda.......................................23 A5
Rd
Splendid View Restaurant................24 A5 ical towers behind the Nova shopping cen- other resorts, but you still get a restaurant,
tre. Nyali Beach is a 15-minute walk away. bar, games room and self-catering cottages.
d
ENTERTAINMENT
ks R
6 19
Bora Bora International Nightclub.....25 A5
Lin
4 Pirates............................................(see 22) MIDRANGE Bamburi Beach
14 Tembo.............................................26 A5
Nyali Bamburi Beach Resort (%0733-474482; www.bamburi Whitesands Hotel (%485926; www.sarovahotels.com;
Golf Club
resort.com; Bamburi Beach; r US$20-90; as) This s/d low season from US$90/140, high season from US$140/180;
15
tidy little complex has direct access to the aisc) This multi-award–winning and
330 T H E C OA S T • • K i l i f i www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • W a t a m u 331
almost invariably busy place could be justi- the Nova shopping centre, with a big pizza Mnarani, high on a bluff on the south bank a choice of garden and creek views and an
fied in dubbing itself the best resort hotel on oven, alfresco veranda dining and reasonable of the creek. amazing trompe l’oeil pool, which seems
the coast, offering consistently good service, prices. It’s closed between 3pm and 6pm on to blend into the ocean. The hotel has an
thoughtful design, full luxury facilities and weekdays. Information adults-only policy.
general high standards throughout. There are Hong Kong Chinese Restaurant (%5485422; Ma- Barclays Bank (Ronald Ngala St) ATM only.
an amazing five pools and the grounds front lindi Rd, Nyali Beach; mains KSh280-595) On the main Kenya Commercial Bank (%522034; Ronald Ngala St) Eating & Drinking
directly onto the sand. road next to the shopping centre, the Chi- Tourist police (Kilifi Shopping Arcade) Kilifi Members Club (%525258; mains KSh100-260)
Severin Sea Lodge (%5485001; www.severin-kenya nese food dished up in this round pavilion- A fantastic spot for sunset, perched on the
.com; s/d low season US$54/108, high season US$165/206; style building is a good example of its breed Sights northern cliff edge with a clear sight line to
asc) This place is so classy it actually and will definitely fill a hole. Choose from The Mnarani ruins (nonresident adult/child KSh100/50; the creek bridge. There’s a good menu with
has a Swiss consulate on the grounds. Ac- small and large portions or set menus for up h7am-6pm) are high on a bluff just west of lots of nyama choma (up to KSh460 per kg)
commodation is in appealing round cottages to six people (KSh1900 to KSh6850). the old ferry landing stage on the southern and the Tusker’s very reasonable for these
running down to the beach, and there are Splendid View Restaurant (%5487270; Malindi bank of Kilifi Creek. Only partly excavated, parts (KSh70). Despite the name you don’t
some nice bars and restaurants, including a Rd, Bamburi Beach; mains KSh100-500; hnoon-2pm & the site was occupied from the end of the have to be a member.
K E N YA
K E N YA
funky restaurant in a converted dhow. 7-10pm Tue-Sun) Sister to the original branch in 14th century to around the first half of the Kilifi Boatyard (%522552; mains KSh350) A very
Neptune Beach Resort (%5485701; www.neptune Mombasa, this is definitely the more attrac- 17th century, when it was abandoned follow- nice sand-floored café serving excellent sea-
hotels.com; s/d/tr low season KSh2700/4400/6600, high sea- tive sibling aesthetically and also has a wider ing sieges by Galla tribespeople from Somalia food and cold beers to expat boating types.
son KSh4300/7000/10,500; asc) Best described menu, serving up the customary Indian cui- and the failure of the water supply. It’s a long walk from town down a dirt road
as an endearing eyesore, the haphazard col- sine plus a handful of Western dishes. It’s The best-preserved ruin is the Great Mosque, off the highway just south of Kilifi. A taxi
our scheme and curiously panda-shaped right at the start of the strip, next to the Nova with its finely carved inscription around the will cost around KSh600 return.
pool do at least help Neptune stand out from complex; ironically the views here aren’t that mihrab (the niche showing the direction of New Kilifi Hotel (% 0733-793700; Biashara St;
the competition. High-season rates are all- much better than in town. Mecca). Also here are a group of carved tombs mains KSh80-140) Just past the bus station is
inclusive. La Strega (%5487431; [email protected]; (including a restored pillar tomb), a small this very popular local canteen with good
Pirates complex, Bamburi Beach; mains KSh350-1000) mosque dating back to the 16th century and pilau and biryanis, plus the usual stew and
Shanzu Beach You wouldn’t think so to look at it, but the parts of the town wall. Tucked away in the ugali options.
Mombasa Serena Beach Hotel (%485721; www thatched restaurant next to the Pirates night- woods are all manner of other ruins and
.serenahotels.com; half board s/d low season US$95/190, high club is a great Italian eatery in its own right, unexcavated structures. The path up to the Getting There & Away
season US$200/260; aisc) Serena’s only with a small but well-tempura’d Japanese ruins (about 300m long) is clearly signposted All buses and matatus travelling between
Kenyan beach resort is so extensive that it’s menu to boot. off the Tarmac road behind Mnarani village. Mombasa (up to 1½ hours) and Malindi
styled on a traditional Swahili village – the (1¼ hours) stop at Kilifi; the fare to either
pathways around the tree-filled complex Entertainment Sleeping destination is KSh70. Falcon, Busstar and
even have street names. The split-level rooms Mamba International Nightclub (%475180; Mamba Dhows Inn (%522028; [email protected]; Ma- Busscar all have offices here for their Nairobi–
are equally impressive, and the design lends Crocodile Village, Links Rd; admission KSh100-200) Who lindi Rd; s/d KSh650/900) On the main road south of Malindi route; buses to Mombasa and on to
an incongruous intimacy. knows what twisted genius thought it was a Kilifi Creek. It’s a small but well-maintained Nairobi leave at around 7.45am and 7.45pm
good idea to have a disco in a crocodile farm, hostelry, with simple but decent thatched (KSh600).
Kikambala Beach but the result is one of the most popular in- blocks set around a garden. The Mnarani
Royal Reserve Safari & Beach Club (%32022; www dependent nightspots around Mombasa. ruins are within easy walking distance, and WATAMU
.royalreserve.com; apt US$66-100; asc) Possibly Bamburi is also known for its infamous there’s a popular bar and restaurant. %042
the best-value self-catering on the coast, nightclubs, which pull in a slightly wild Makuti Villas (%522415; s/d incl breakfast KSh800/ About 24km south of Malindi, Watamu is
with all-new fittings, including microwave crowd of locals, tourists, prostitutes and hus- 1000; s) Also known as Mkwajuni Motel popular beach village with sandy beaches
and utensils, complemented by a full range tlers. Pirates, Bora Bora International and or Dhows Inn Annex, this bungalow com- and plenty of hotels, though the atmosphere
of facilities and activities. It’s heavily mar- Tembo are the big players. plex isn’t nearly as grand as it sounds, but is a lot more resortlike than in Kilifi. Off-
keted for timeshares, so book early in the you’re certainly not short on space in the big shore is the southern part of Malindi Marine
high season. KILIFI thatched buildings. Prices include breakfast Reserve, and the unspoilt forests of Arabuko
Sun’n’Sand Beach Resort (%32621; www.sun %041 at the bar-restaurant on site. Sokoke Forest Reserve and the Swahili ruins
nsand.co.ke; half board s/d low season US$45/90, high sea- Like Mtwapa to its south, Kilifi is a gorgeous Tushauriane Bar & Lodge (%522521; s/d with of Gede are both a short distance away.
son US$70/100; aisc) Despite its 900- river estuary with effortlessly picture-perfect shared bathroom KSh150/300) This is a bright- The coast at Watamu is broken up into
head capacity there’s a really nice feel to the views from its massive road bridge. Many yellow building behind the bus station. Un- three separate coves divided by eroded
pastel-orange Sun’n’Sand, and it’s known white Kenyans have yachts moored in the surprisingly at this price, rooms are basic, rocky headlands. Each of the bays becomes
as one of the best hotels on the north coast creek, and there are numerous beach houses with just beds, mosquito nets and plenty of a broad white strand at low tide, and many
for kids. belonging to artists, writers and adventurers market noise. people walk across to the offshore islands
from around the globe. Mnarani Club (%522318; [email protected]; to sunbathe and swim. Like the southern
Eating The main reasons that most come here are s/d low season US$62/99, high season US$79/115; as) resorts, Watamu is inundated with seaweed
La Veranda (%5485482; Nyali Beach; mains KSh350-650) to stay at one of the pleasant beach resorts at Atop the cliff on the southern side of Kilifi at certain times of the year, but the sand is
This is a reliable Italian restaurant behind the mouth of the creek or to visit the ruins of Creek, this very stylish resort complex has usually clear between December and April.
332 T H E C OA S T • • W a t a m u www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • W a t a m u 333
Watamu
Information WATAMU 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles do worse. In the high season breakfast is
There are now no banks in Watamu, so available for KSh100. TAG & BRAG
your only options are the foreign exchange A B While the idea of wrestling a huge marlin
To Gede (6km); To Bio Ken Snake
bureaus at the big hotels and Tunda Tours. Arabuko Sokoke
Forest Reserve (7.5km);
Farm & Laboratory
(1.5km)
MIDRANGE on the open sea has a powerful macho al-
If you need to use an ATM, your nearest 10 Malindi (23km)
Watamu
Marijani Holiday Resort (%32448; marijani@swift lure, catches of billfish in the Indian Ocean
choices are Kilifi and Malindi. Online infor- 1 Village 8 malindi.com; s/d €18.50/20.50, cottages €38.50-52) Eas- are getting smaller all the time. The biggest
1
mation can be found at www.watamu.net. 2 Watamu
Beach Hotel
ily the best place to stay in the village: threat to game fish is relentless overfishing
Beach Way 12
Corner Connections (Watamu Supermarket) Internet Shop
Watamu
distinctive coral facing, traditional furnish- by commercial tuna companies, who rou-
13
access. 5 4 Bay ings, comfy balcony sofas and local art set tinely hook other pelagic fish as so-called
9
Post office (Gede road) Mama Lucy
Supermarket 6
this very personal guesthouse a cut above ‘bycatch’. Pollution and falling stocks of
Telkom Kenya office (Beach Way Rd) 7
any competition. To get here, take the path prey species are also having a serious
11
Tunda Tours (%32079; Beach Way Rd; per minute To Turtle Bay (500m);
Beach 3 beside the Mama Lucy supermarket and knock-on effect. Some large species are
Way Rd
KSh5) Heavily touted Internet access. KWS Office (3.5km);
Mida Creek (4km)
turn left at the Beach Way Shop. believed to have declined by as much as
Ascot Residence Hotel (% 32326; info@ascot
K E N YA
INDIAN 80% since the 1970s; sharks are particularly
K E N YA
OCEAN
Sights 2 Blue
Lagoon residence.com; Beach Way Rd; s/d KSh1600/2800, apt KSh3500- vulnerable.
BIO KEN SNAKE FARM & LABORATORY 7000; s) This is a comfortable complex of tidy Instead of bashing some unfortunate
This excellent snake farm (%32303; snakes@ rooms and apartments set in a garden with a fish over the head with a boathook, you
africaonline.co.ke; adult/child KSh500/free; h10am-noon INFORMATION dolphin-shaped pool (no, really). Security is can do your bit to help sustain shark
& 2-5pm) is by far the best of the snake parks Corner Connections...1
Post Office................2
A1
A1
good and there’s a fine pizza restaurant. and billfish populations by tagging your
along the coast. It was established by the late Telkom Kenya Office..3 B2 Scuba Diving Watamu (% 32099; www.scuba catch and releasing it back into the ocean.
James Ashe, a reptile expert and former cur- Tunda Tours..............4 B1
EATING
-diving-kenya.com; Turtle Bay; cottages €29-52; s) No Most deep-sea fishing companies provide
ator from the National Museums of Kenya. SLEEPING Cladena Swiss prizes for figuring out what the main line anglers with a photo and official recognition
Aquarius Resort.........5 A1 Restaurant...........10 A1
As well as touring the facilities, staff can Ascot Residence Mapango
of business is here – luckily for keen self- of their catch, then release the fish to fight
take you on a day safari to look for snakes 3 Hotel.....................6 B2 Restaurant...........11 B2 caterers the German owners also offer ac- another day, carrying tags that will allow
Malob Guest House...7 B2 Ujamaa Bar &
in their natural habitat (KSh4500). Marijani Holiday Restaurant...........12 B1 commodation in five charming one- and scientists to discover more about these
The centre is just north of Watamu village Resort....................8 B1 two-bedroom cottages. magnificent predators.
Villa Veronica/ TRANSPORT
on the main beach road. Mwikali Lodge...... 9 B1 Matatu Stand..........13 B1
TOP END
WATAMU MARINE NATIONAL PARK Turtle Bay Beach Club (%32003; www.turtlebay.co Aquarius Resort (%32069; www.aquariuswatamu
The southern part of Malindi Marine Re- are dive trips to the Tewa Caves, at the mouth .ke; r per person low season €58-85, high season €93-122; .com; full board s/d low season €64.50/86, high season
serve, this marine park (adult/child US$5/2) in- of Mida Creek, where a group of giant rock aisc) At the far end of the cove, €78/104; asc) A brand-new place set
cludes some magnificent coral reefs and cod loiter menacingly at the bottom. Turtle Bay is one of the best resorts of its back from the water. The makuti-roofed
abundant fish-life. It lies around 2km off- kind in the area, with palm-planted gardens buildings are set in a lovely garden and there
shore from Watamu. To get to the park you’ll DEEP-SEA FISHING to disguise the size of the site. Facilities are are peaceful communal balconies overlook-
need to hire a glass-bottomed boat, which If you want to ape the fish-wrestling antics of excellent and it’s particularly strong on kids’ ing the pool. The Mapango Restaurant, in
is easy enough at the KWS office (%32393), at Ernest Hemingway, deep-sea fishing is possi- entertainment. Loads of excursions are on a separate compound nearer the beach, is
the end of the coast road, where you pay ble at Ocean Sports Hotel and Hemingway’s offer at the community-oriented Discovery highly recommended.
the park fees. For marine park trips, boat Resort for around UK£540 per boat (high Centre, most of which are open to non-
operators ask anything from KSh1800 to season, up to four anglers). People are a little guests. Prices quoted are all-inclusive. Eating
KSh3500 per person, excluding park fees; more environmentally sensitive now than in Ocean Sports Hotel (%32008; oceansps@africa As the better hotels cater more than amply
it’s all negotiable. All the big hotels offer old Ernie’s day – tag and release is standard online.co.ke; Turtle Bay; half board s/d low season for their clients, there’s not much need
‘goggling’ (snorkelling) trips to nonguests procedure (see the boxed text, opposite). US$82/111, high season US$100/160; sc) A small, for an independent restaurant scene in
for around KSh1500. informal family-run resort with a deep-sea Watamu, and most places close relatively
Sleeping fishing slant. It’s modest considering the early.
Activities BUDGET prices, but the atmosphere’s very relaxed. Ujamaa Bar & Restaurant (mains KSh150-600;
DIVING Malob Guest House (%32260; Beach Way Rd; s KSh600) Good cheap snorkelling trips are available hnoon-2pm & 5-9pm) This central village eat-
With the marine park just offshore, diving Opposite Ascot, Malob is a good small (KSh800). ery has some tourist standards, such as
is understandably popular. Aqua Ventures budget choice. Rooms are clean and well Hemingways Resort (%32624; www.hemingways steak and spaghetti, thrown in to com-
(%32420; www.diveinkenya.com; Ocean Sports Hotel Tur- looked after, and are set around a peaceful .co.ke; Turtle Bay; half board s/d low season UK£57/82, high plement the local favourites (and up the
tle Bay) offers guided dives in the marine park courtyard. season UK£143/203; as) Next door to Ocean prices).
for UK£18 and an open-water PADI dive Villa Veronika/Mwikali Lodge (%0735-499836; Sports, this very stately luxury lodge has Cladena Swiss Restaurant (% 32500; mains
course for UK£275. The best time to dive Beach Way Rd; d KSh600) A friendly, secure family- snappy service and an exclusive ambience. KSh200-600) It’s not often you get a taste of
and snorkel is between October and March. run lodging. Rooms come with fans, mos- Prices include transfers from Malindi air- the Alps in coastal Kenya, so if you have a
Avoid diving from June to August because of quito nets and fridges; they’re a bit scrappy port, snorkelling in the marine park, and hankering for fondue and sausage this is the
rough seas and poor visibility. Also popular and don’t always have power, but you could trips to Malindi and Gede. place to come.
334 T H E C OA S T • • A r a b u k o S o k o k e F o re s t R e s e r v e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • G e d e R u i n s 335
Gede Ruins
Getting There & Around offer walks in Mida Creek on the opposite
There are matatus between Malindi and side of the highway.
Watamu throughout the day (KSh50, one There are basic camp sites (per person US$8) To Ticket Office (10m);
hour). All matatus pass the turn-off to the close to the visitor centre and further south Gede (1.2km)
Gede ruins (KSh10). For Mombasa, the easi- near Spinetail Way. 12
est option is to take a matatu to the high- The forest is just off the main Malindi– North
way (KSh10) and flag down a bus or matatu Mombasa road. The main gate to the forest Gate
from there. and visitor centre is about 1.5km west of the Museum
0 200 m
0 0.1 miles
Taxis charge KSh800 to the Gede ruins turn-off to Gede and Watamu, while the Northwest
Gate
Shop
and KSh1800 to Malindi. There are also Mida entrance is about 3km further south.
1
a handful of motorised rickshaws, which All buses and matatus between Mombasa Mosque of the
Long Conduit
are cheaper and can be handy for the long and Malindi can drop you at either en-
beach road. trance. From Watamu, matatus to Malindi 7
Outer Wall
can drop you at the main junction.
K E N YA
K E N YA
8 2 Mosque
Inner
6 9
ARABUKO SOKOKE FOREST RESERVE 3
Pillar
Tomb
between
the Walls
Close to the marine park at Watamu, GEDE RUINS 5 10
Wall
4
Arabuko Sokoke Forest Reserve (adult/child US$10/5) Some 4km from Watamu, just off the main 11
is the largest tract of indigenous coastal for- Malindi–Mombasa road, are the famous East
est remaining in East Africa, with four dis- Gede ruins (adult/child KSh200/100; h 7am-6pm), Gate
House on the
tinct vegetation zones. Gazetted in 2002 as one of the principal historical monuments West Wall
West
an International Heritage Site, it’s admin- on the coast. Hidden away in the forest is a Gate Large House
istered jointly by the Forestry Department vast complex of derelict houses, palaces and
Mosque of the Small
and KWS, and contains an unusually high mosques, made all the more mysterious by
Wall
Sarcophagi Mosque Fort
concentration of rare species, especially the fact that there seem to be no records of
Outer
birds (240 species) and butterflies (260 spe- Gede’s existence in any historical texts.
cies). A good deal of work has gone into Gede (or Gedi) was established and ac-
involving the local community in the pro- tively trading by at least the 13th century. South
Gate
tection of the forest. Excavations have uncovered porcelain, glass
The most high-profile birds are: Clarke’s and glazed earthenware, indicating not only
weaver, found nowhere else in the world; trade links, but a taste for luxury among
the beautiful miniature Sokoke scops owl, Gede’s Swahili elite. Within the compound
only 15cm tall; the east coast akalat; the are ruins of ornate tombs and mosques, and
Mosque on
Sokoke pipit; the Amani sunbird; and the the regal ruins of a Swahili palace, further the Wall
spotted ground thrush. The reserve’s signa- evidence of Gede’s prosperity.
ture animal is the charming golden-rumped When the city was abandoned in the
elephant-shrew. 17th or 18th century, the forest took over
The Arabuko Sokoke Visitor Centre (Malindi and the site was lost to the world until the
Rd; %042-32462; h8am-4pm) is very helpful; 1920s. Since then, there have been exten-
it’s at Gede Forest Station, with displays sive excavations, revealing the remains of will generally stick to a standard circuit of Past the tomb, next to the House of the Long
on the various species here. The shop sells substantial Swahili houses and complex the most important ruins. Court (3), the Great Mosque (4) is one of Gede’s
the excellent KWS/Forestry Department sanitation facilities, including toilets and Gedi – Historical Monument (KSh50), a most significant buildings. It originally dates
guide Arabuko Sokoke Forest & Mida Creek cisterns for ritual washing. Most of the guidebook to the ruins containing a map from the mid-15th century, but was rebuilt a
(KSh300) and Tansy Bliss’ Arabuko-Sokoke excavated buildings are concentrated in a and descriptions of many buildings, should century later, possibly after damage sustained
Forest – A Visitor’s Guide (KSh120). The dense cluster near the entrance gate, but be available at the ticket office or the mu- at the time of Gede’s first abandonment. The
noticeboard in the visitor centre shows the there are dozens of other ruins scattered seum shop. mosque is of typical East African design with
sites of recent wildlife sightings. through the forest. On your right as you enter the compound a mihrab or echo chamber facing Mecca.
From the visitor centre, a series of na- is the Dated Tomb (1), so called because of Behind the mosque are the ruins of an ex-
ture trails, running tracks and 4WD paths Walking Tour the inscription on the wall, featuring the tensive palace (5) spread out over a quarter of
cut through the forest. Trained bird and The tree-shrouded ruins are very atmos- Muslim date corresponding to 1399. This an acre and thought to have been owned by
wildlife guides (%0734-994931) can be hired pheric and you’ll often have the site to your- tomb has provided a reference point for the former ruler of Gede. This regal struc-
at KSh600 for up to three hours, KSh1200 self if you visit early in the morning. Guides dating other buildings within the complex. ture is entered through a complete arched
for a full day, and KSh800 for a half day or are available at the gate for KSh300; they Near it, inside the wall, is the Tomb of the doorway and many interesting features have
a highly recommended night walk (leav- definitely help bring the site to life, point- Fluted Pillar (2), which is characteristic of been preserved, including the great audi-
ing the visitor centre at 6pm). They’re very ing out the various trees and plants as well such pillar designs found along the East ence hall and a strongroom with no doors or
knowledgeable about the forest, and also as interesting features of the buildings, but African coast. windows. The palace also has a particularly
336 T H E C OA S T • • M a l i n d i & A r o u n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • M a l i n d i 337
Malindi
fine pillar tomb (6); the hexagonal shape is are the coral reefs of the Malindi Marine MALINDI 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
unique in East Africa. National Park, one of Kenya’s best marine
Following the path past the tomb, around parks, with plenty of opportunities for snor- A B C D
old Swahili houses (7) have been excavated kelling and diving. To Garsen (109km);
Lamu (228km) INFORMATION
here, in a compact group beside the Great The town is best visited in the high season, Barclays Bank...............................1 B3
Bling Net..................................(see 38)
Mosque and the palace. They’re each named from August to January, and can seem pretty 1 Dollar Forex Bureau......................2 B3
Malindi Golf &
after particular features of their design or dead outside these times. B8
Country Immigration Office.......................3 B4
Inter-Communications...............(see 2)
Club
after objects found in them by archaeolo- 25 Kenya Commercial Bank...............4 B3
gists. The House of the Cistern (8) is particu- Orientation Police...........................................5 B3
Post Office...................................6 B3
larly interesting, with ancient illustrations The actual centre of Malindi is the area Postbank....................................(see 9)
Standard Chartered Bank.............7 B3
incised into the plaster walls. around the old market on Uhuru Rd; the Ngowe Rd 10
Rd
17 Tourist Office.............................(see 9)
Lamu
The other excavations on the site are more tourist accommodation, restaurants and Y-Net.........................................(see 7)
spread out, with numerous paths running malls are spread out north and south along SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
through the woods from the main complex. the coast. Mama Ngina Rd (also known as
K E N YA
K E N YA
Makaburini Rd 35 Allamanda Safaris......................(see 7)
2 Aqua Ventures.........................(see 14)
The most interesting structures are east of Government Rd, Vasco da Gama Rd, Sea House of Columns.......................8 C4
the Great Mosque, including the House of Front Rd or Ocean View Rd on certain sec- Kingfisher.................................(see 29)
Malindi Museum........................(see 8)
the Dhow (9), the House of the Double Court (10) tions) provides access to the resorts south of 20 33 Silversands Tours & Safaris.......(see 22)
and the nearby Mosque of the Three Aisles (11), town, while the KWS headquarters is at the 18
9
Southern Cross Safaris..................9 B2
Tusker Safaris...........................(see 32)
which has the largest well at Gede. There are south end of parallel Casuarina Rd. The big 16
32
a handful of other structures in the forest if shopping arcades and restaurant complexes 36 4 SLEEPING
African Pearl Hotel.....................10 B2
38
you wish to explore further. are north of the centre on Lamu Rd. 1 Coconut Village.........................11 C6
ὈὈ
As you head back out past the car park, 34 2
Coral Key Beach Resort..............12
Dagama's Inn.............................13
C6
C5
there’s a small museum (12) and ‘interpreta- Information 28
Driftwood Beach Club................14 C6
tion centre’ with displays of artefacts found EMERGENCY 3 5 7 Gossip Hotel..............................15 C4
Heiner Seiz Bungalows...............16 B2
on the site, although the best stuff was taken Ambulance (%30575) 6 Jardin Lorna...............................17 A2
Malindi Lutheran Guest House...............18 A2
Fire (%31001, 0733-550990)
Rd
to the Fort Jesus museum in Mombasa. Muslim Malindi Beach Club....................19 C6
atta
Bay
Police (%31555; Kenyatta Rd) Cemetery Moriema Cottages.....................20 A2
Keny
Ng
ala Ozi's Guest House......................21 B4
Getting There & Away Rd
27 Silversands Campsite................. 22 C6
The ruins lie just off the main highway near INTERNET ACCESS To Tsavo National Park
(115km); Nairobi via
C103 Odin
ga St
Uhuru
Park Malindi
Tana Guest House......................23 B4
Tropical African Dream Village... 24 C6
the village of Gede, on the access road to Bling Net (%30041; Lamu Rd; per min KSh2) Also Tsavo National Park
(487km) Jamh
uri S
Hindu
Monument
Woburn Residence Club.............25 B1
Temple
Watamu. The easiest way to get here is to serves food. t
23 Jumaa Malindi
42 EATING
take a Watamu-bound matatu to Gede Vil- Inter-Communications (%31310; Lamu Rd; per min a St Mosque Curio Market
Rd
Tan Baby Marrow.............................26 C5
uru
3 Jetty
lage and follow the well-signposted dirt road KSh1; h8am-11pm) 4 37 I Love Pizza..............................(see 29)
Uh
Old Market 21 15 Izzipoint Supermarket.................27 B4
31
from there; it’s a 10-minute walk. Y-Net (%30171; [email protected]; 40 29 Jardin Lorna Restaurant...........(see 17)
Karen Blixen Restaurant...........(see 32)
It’s also possible to get a taxi to take you Stanchart Arcade, Lamu Rd; per min KSh2) 39 Mosque
8
Malindi Grocers..........................28 B3
on a round trip from Malindi for about Rd Old Town
Ca
41 Vegetable 30 Malindi Sea Fishing Club............29 C4
sa
ba
sua
Market
Old Man & the Sea....................30 C4
KSh1000, with an hour or more to look MONEY om
rin
M Palentine Tea Room...................31 B4
aR
around the site. This could be worthwhile Barclays Bank (%20656; Lamu Rd) Supermarket...............................32 B3
d
To Malindi Airport (2km); 13
if your time is limited. Dollar Forex Bureau (%30602; Lamu Rd) Rates may Gede (18km);
Watamu (24km); Portuguese DRINKING
Mombasa (118km) Church
be slightly better here than at the banks. 26
Bar Bar.......................................33 B2
Mama Ngina Rd
Casino Ndogo Black & White.....34 B3
MALINDI & AROUND Kenya Commercial Bank (%20148; Lamu Rd) Vasco da
%042 Postbank (Malindi Complex, Lamu Rd) 5 Gama Pillar ENTERTAINMENT
Club 28......................................35 B2
Malindi is one of those holiday towns that in- Standard Chartered Bank (Stanchart Arcade, Lamu Rd) Fermento Piano Bar..................(see 32)
spire wildly opposite reactions in people. For Star Dust....................................36 B3
many, especially Italians, this is their Kenyan POST TRANSPORT
beach paradise and even adopted home; for Post office (Kenyatta Rd) Busscar.....................................(see 37)
each
Busstar.......................................37 B4
others it’s a cynical tourist trap with few re-
a B
Falcon......................................(see 23)
Falcon......................................(see 37)
deeming features. If you’re new to Africa, the
arin
TOURIST INFORMATION Kenya Airways............................38 B3
12
Casu
high-season hassle may well incline you to- Tourist office (%20689; Malindi Complex, Lamu Rd; 22
Matatus to Mombasa................39 A4
Matatus to Watamu...................40 B4
wards the latter angle, but once you get under h8am-12.30pm & 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Staff are friendly 14 New Bus Station........................41 A4
its skin you may well find there’s more to the but really don’t have much information to dispense. 6 Tawakal Office...........................42 B4
TSS Office................................(see 37)
town than pizza and sunloungers. Zam Zam.................................(see 37)
From a tourist perspective, modern Ma- VISA EXTENSIONS
To Kilili Baharini Resort (500m); INDIAN
lindi is all about the beaches, with little in Immigration office (%30876; Mama Ngina Rd) Travel- KWS Headquarters (1km); 24
19
11
Malindi Marine National Park (1km) OCEAN
the way of cultural attractions. Offshore lers seeking visa extensions are often referred to Mombasa.
338 T H E C OA S T • • M a l i n d i & A r o u n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • M a l i n d i & A r o u n d 339
Dangers & Annoyances The KWS compound (opposite) sits on a changing rooms. You can buy day-old chicks Heiner Seiz Bungalows (%20978; Lamu Rd; s/d
Don’t walk back to your hotel along the lovely stretch of beach, and there’s a KWS at reception, if you so wish. KSh1400/1600; as) These quiet German-
beach at night. In the past many people campsite and bandas. You can also charge Lutheran Guest House (%30098; tw/tr/q with run cottages are subdivided into unfancy
have been mugged, although there haven’t national park smartcards here for trips to shared bathroom KSh800/1200/1500, tw with private bath- but well-kept rooms with fridges. Some
been any incidents lately. The long, dark Tsavo East and West. room KSh1000, bungalows KSh1500) This Lutheran kitchens are also available to guests.
walk from the north end of town to the religious centre has simple rooms with fans, Moriema Cottages (%31326; s/d KSh1400/2500)
resorts south of central Malindi should also DIVING mosquito nets and little else; the bungalows These large cottage-style rooms are a pretty
be avoided at night. With the marine park just offshore, scuba have living rooms and kitchens. Alcohol is good deal, but whoever thought of putting
Beach boys are the usual fact of life and, diving is a popular activity, although, as prohibited. in carpets and dull green furnishings was
as well as sex and souvenirs, drugs are mentioned, the visibility is greatly reduced Dagama’s Inn (%31942; Mama Ngina Rd; s/d KSh600/ way off the mark aesthetically. They’re
widely offered. This is often part of a sting by silt between March and June. All the 800) Big, bare doubles and rather smaller tucked away in a quaint garden behind the
in which phoney policemen appear, con- big hotels have dive centres, usually run in singles in a modern block, now under new Sabaki shopping centre.
fiscate the drugs and extract a large ‘fine’. conjunction with local companies. Single management, with a decent Indian restaur- Gossip Hotel (%0723-516602; Mama Ngina Rd; s/d
Drugs are illegal here, and being ripped off dives cost €40 plus the park entry fee, while ant downstairs (mains KSh190 to KSh495). KSh700/1200) Just down from Ozi’s, the Gossip
K E N YA
K E N YA
is nothing compared to what will happen if a PADI open-water diver course will cost Only one room has a fan, but there’s plenty aims for much the same backpacker cli-
you are arrested by a bona fide cop – either around €330. of breeze through the slatted walls. entele. Rooms have four-poster mosquito
way, it isn’t worth the risk. Main operators: KWS compound (%31554; Casuarina Beach; camp- nets, dark wood and plastic chairs, and the
Aqua Ventures (%32420; www.diveinkenya.com; ing adult/child US$8/5, bandas per person KSh600) KWS downstairs restaurant boasts an intriguing
Sights & Activities Driftwood Beach Club, Mam Ngina Rd) provides a shady camp site, with lights and TV lounge/junk corner.
HOUSE OF COLUMNS Blue Fin (%0722-261242; www.bluefindiving.com) a cooking area, and eight popular bandas.
One of a handful of traditional Swahili houses Operates out of several resorts in Malindi. Water and bedding are provided and there’s TOP END
left in Malindi, the recently restored House of a kitchen and mess hall you can use for Tropical African Dream Village (%31673; www
Columns (Mama Ngina Rd) contains the new Ma- DEEP-SEA FISHING KSh300. Mountain bikes can be hired for .planhotel.ch; Casuarina Rd; s/d/tr low season from €94/
lindi museum (adult/child KSh200/100; h8am-6pm), a Kingfisher (%31275; Mama Ngina Rd), below the KSh200 per day. 130/175, high season from €116/160/216; aisc)
fairly haphazard collection of pictures, ob- Malindi Sea Fishing Club, is one of the best Silversands Campsite (%20412; camping adult/ This place consists of three resorts around
jects and exhibits covering the region’s past places on the coast to find a cheap, private child KSh200/100, bandas KSh500-600) On the south- the intersection of Mama Ngina and Casua-
and present. deep-sea fishing charter. It has a large fleet of ern beach strip, this is a much-loved site for rina Rds. The Tropical African Dream
boats and charges US$350 for a ‘short day’ of travellers and there are good facilities, but Village section is a rather grand complex
MALINDI MARINE NATIONAL PARK around six hours (up to four anglers). limited shade. The simple tented bandas of makuti-roofed plantation-style houses.
Immediately offshore from Malindi and have recently been fully refurbished. Bicycles Around the corner, the fancy Malindi
extending south as far as Watamu, this im- Tours can be hired for KSh200 per day. Beach Club section has accommodation in
portant marine park (adult/child US$5/2; h7am- Numerous safari companies operate from stylish Moorish cottages, while the cheaper
7pm) covers 213 sq km and protects some Malindi to Tsavo East National Park, enter- MIDRANGE Coconut Village is a more predictable col-
impressive coral reefs, although the piles ing the park via the Sala Gate. The going rate African Pearl Hotel (%0733-966167; www.africanpearl lection of villas.
of seashells on sale in Malindi may make for a day trip is US$120 per person. Trips to .com; Lamu Rd; s/d from KSh1800/2200, cottages KSh2000- Kilili Baharini Resort (% 20169; www.kilili
you wonder just how much that protection the Malindi Marine National Park are also a 4500; as) Blessed with a real personal baharini.com; Casuarina Rd; half board s/d from US$153/182;
is worth. standard option (US$20). touch, this is the kind of pearl it’s worth as) This is a splendid Italian resort, with
Despite the extensive damage there is still Reliable companies: shuckin’ a few shellfish for. Rooms are spa- flamboyant décor and Swahili beds set all
some amazing marine life here, and there’s Allamanda Safaris (%31272; allamanda@swiftmalindi cious and light, all with their own balconies, over the complex so you can read and catch
always a chance you may see megafauna, .com; Stanchart Arcade, Lamu Rd) and foregoing a room with air-con to get the sea breeze. It fronts directly onto the
such as whale sharks and mako sharks. Silversands Tours & Safaris (%30014; Mama Ngina Rd) an atmospheric wood-panelled fan room is sand, and the light, spacious rooms are
Note that underwater visibility is severely Southern Cross Safaris (%30547; sxsmld@swiftmalindi no hardship. clustered around attractive pools.
reduced by silt from the Galana River be- .com; Malindi Complex, Lamu Rd) Ozi’s Guest House (%20218; [email protected]; Coral Key Beach Resort (%30717; www.coralkey
tween March and June. Tusker Safaris (%30525; [email protected]; Mama Ngina Rd; s/d/tr with shared bathroom KSh600/ malindi.com; Mama Ngina Rd; s/d low season from €23/31,
Most people visit on a snorkelling or AG Complex, Lamu Rd) 1200/1800) Barely out of the budget category, high season from €44/58; aisc) A huge
glass-bottomed boat trip, which can be ar- this friendly hostelry is a travellers’ favour- mass-tourism resort catering particularly
ranged at the KWS office (%31554; malindimnp@ Sleeping ite, though with the mosque next door light for young Italians. It’s very lively, with activ-
kws.org) on the coast road south of town. BUDGET sleepers may want to start praying. ities such as water-volleyball and a climbing
Boats only go out at low tide, so it’s a good Tana Guest House (%30940; Jamhuri St; s/d with shared Jardin Lorna (%30658; [email protected]; wall. Rooms are divided into groups within
idea to call in advance to check times. The bathroom KSh350/450, s/d/tr with private bathroom KSh550/ Mtangani Rd; r KSh2500-3500; as ) Don’t be five themed areas, each block with its own
going rate is around KSh3500 per boat (five 550/650) Just round the corner from the mar- fooled by the French nom de plume – Lorna separate pool.
to 10 people) for a two-hour trip, and masks ket area, this is a severely convenient loca- is as unpretentious as they come, providing Driftwood Beach Club (%20155; www.driftwood
and snorkels are provided. Alternatively, tion for buses and cheap food. Rooms are accommodation mainly for students of the club.com; Mama Ngina Rd; s/d/tr KSh5300/7600/9120,
you can take a tour with any of the agencies decent for the price, with fans, mosquito Hospitality Training & Management Insti- cottages KSh16,500; asc) One of the best-
in town. nets, squat toilets and what appear to be tute. Rooms are endearingly quirky. known resorts in Malindi, Driftwood prides
340 T H E C OA S T • • M a l i n d i & A r o u n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • L a m u 341
itself on an informal atmosphere and attracts the usuals and an added dose of Chinese, Thanks to improvements on the Malindi– Information
a more independent clientele than many of seafood and grill dishes, plus crocodile and Garissa road, taking a bus to Lamu is an INTERNET ACCESS
its peers. The restaurant, bar and other fa- warthog (!) for KSh1000. It’s also good for easier and safer proposition than a few years Lynx Infosystems (%833134; per min KSh2; h8am-
cilities are all open to nonguests for a tem- a morning cappuccino. ago, though buses are still accompanied by 10pm) Temperamental connections over a Safaricom line –
porary membership fee of KSh200 per day. Useful outlets for self-caterers: armed guards for some of the way. Among worth a look when the post office is closed. To find it, head
Woburn Residence Club (%31085; www.woburn Izzipoint supermarket (%30652; Uhuru Rd) the various companies offering services, west down the street next to the Khadi Star office and turn
residencemalindi.com; s/d from €79.20/104, apt low season Malindi Grocers (%20886; Lamu Rd) Tawakal buses leave at 8.30am, Falcon at left at the end.
€152-232, high season €190-290; as) If you’re Supermarket (Galana Centre, Lamu Rd) 8.45am and Zam Zam at 10.30am; the fare
not bothered about direct beach access, this is KSh300 to KSh400. The journey takes at MEDICAL SERVICES
swish complex offers modern rooms and Drinking & Entertainment least four hours between Malindi and the King Fadh Lamu District Hospital (%633012) One
apartments with giant marble bathrooms. Bar Bar (Sabaki Centre, Lamu Rd) A perennially pop- jetty at Mokowe. The ferry to Lamu from of the most modern and well-equipped hospitals on the
ular high-season courtyard bar, restaurant the mainland costs KSh50 and takes about coast. It’s south of the town centre.
Eating and ice-cream parlour with nonstop Italian 20 minutes. Lamu Medical Clinic (%633438; Kenyatta Rd;
Palentine Tea Room (% 31412; Uhuru Rd; mains cable TV in the background. h8am-9pm)
K E N YA
K E N YA
KSh60-140; i ) A recommended all-hours Fermento Piano Bar (%31780; Galana Centre, Getting Around
Muslim canteen opposite the old market, Lamu Rd; admission KSh200; hfrom 10pm Wed, Fri & Sat; Taxis are mainly concentrated along Lamu MONEY
serving stews, curries, pilau and soups in a) Fermento has the town’s hippest dance Rd and out the front of any of the big hotels If you’re stuck outside bank times, ask
tiled surroundings. It’s friendly and almost floor, apparently once frequented by Naomi south of town (the best place to start is around: local shopkeepers may be able to
always busy. Campbell. It’s young, trendy and Italian, so Coral Key Beach Resort). From the south- help you out with changing money, some-
Old Man & the Sea (%31106; Mama Ngina Rd; wear your showiest outfit. ern resorts, it costs KSh200 to Malindi times at surprisingly reasonable rates.
mains KSh300-590, seafood KSh550-1100) Definitely Casino Ndogo Black & White (%0724-236476; town, KSh300 to Lamu Rd and KSh500 to Kenya Commercial Bank (%633327; Harambee Ave)
the daddy of Malindi’s restaurants, this old Lamu Rd; admission KSh100; h24hr) A typical semi- the airport. The only bank on Lamu. No ATM, Visa advances only. Be-
Moorish house on the seafront really has open makuti bar-club with regular live Con- Malindi also has Kenya’s biggest fleet of ware of large commissions on cards and travellers cheques.
no competition. The food’s superb, service golese lingala bands. Indonesian-style tuk-tuks, which are cheaper
is attentive and you can get decent wine by The main nightclubs outside the resorts than taxis; a trip from town to the KWS POST
the glass (KSh110). A 16% VAT charge is are Star Dust (Lamu Rd) and Club 28 (Lamu Rd), office should cost around KSh100. Post office (Harambee Ave) Postal services, cardphones
added to the bill. which open erratically out of season but are and the best Internet connections in town.
Jardin Lorna Restaurant (%30658; Mtangani Rd; generally crammed when they do. LAMU
mains KSh150-550) Amid the trees and obsolete %042 TOURIST INFORMATION
beer pumps, this peaceful garden restaurant Getting There & Away Lamu town is the core of everything the Tourist information office (%633449; h9am-1pm
serves a limited but unusual selection of AIR Lamu archipelago stands for in the hearts & 2-4pm) A commercial tour and accommodation agency
French, Italian and African dishes. There are daily afternoon/evening flights and minds of inhabitants and visitors that also provides tourist information. It’s off Kenyatta Rd.
Malindi Sea Fishing Club (%30550; Mama Ngina with Airkenya (%30646; Malindi Airport) to Nairobi alike, a living throwback to the Swahili
Rd; mains KSh240-400; h noon-8pm) A popular (US$85, 1¼ hours). Kenya Airways (%20237; culture that once dominated the entire VISA EXTENSIONS
hang-out for the deep-sea fishing crowd. Lamu Rd) flies the same route at least once a Indian Ocean coast. In 2001 it was added Immigration office (%633032) There’s an office off
The walls feature some huge stuffed sharks day (from KSh4010). to Unesco’s list of World Heritage Sites. Kenyatta Rd near the fort where you should be able to get
and billfish in dramatic poses. The seafood Mombasa Air Safari (%041-433061) has daily The winding streets, carved woods and trad- visa extensions, although travellers are sometimes referred
is excellent. It’s a great place for a sundown flights to Mombasa (US$21, 25 minutes) and itional houses are simply captivating, and to Mombasa.
beer, but it closes early and you have to pay Lamu (US$62, 30 minutes) in the high sea- few experiences can compare with wander-
a KSh100 temporary membership fee. son; booking in Malindi is through Southern ing the narrow lanes, immersed in the every- Dangers & Annoyances
I Love Pizza (%20672; Mama Ngina Rd; nwright@ Cross Safaris. day sights and sounds of another age. It’s Beach boys are the primary nuisance in
africaonline.co.ke; pizza KSh300-550, mains from KSh600) A simply a different world, and one you’ll be Lamu. Most loiter around the waterfront
very popular Italian restaurant on the sea- BUS & MATATU in no hurry to leave. offering dhow trips, marijuana and other
front, full of diners pointedly ignoring the The new bus station just off Mombasa Rd ‘services’. Men can generally get away with
naff name. Luckily the pizza is excellent. is currently only used by Mombasa Raha, Orientation a friendly chat, but single women and even
Baby Marrow (%0733-542584; Mama Ngina Rd; which has numerous daily buses to Mom- Although there are several restaurants and groups of female travellers are likely to
mains KSh350-800) Everything about this place is basa (KSh150, two hours). Metro Mombasa places to stay along the waterfront (Haram- have constant company, which can get very
quirkily stylish, from the thatched veranda buses and Mombasa matatus (KSh100 to bee Ave), most of the guesthouses are wearing. There’s not a lot you can do except
and the plant-horse to the Italian-based KSh150) stop at the road stage near here. tucked away in the confusing maze of alleys be firm, stay polite and keep on walking.
menu and the tasty seafood (KSh1400 to Companies such as Busstar, Busscar, TSS located behind. Lamu’s main thoroughfare Lamu has long been popular for its re-
KSh1800). and Falcon have offices opposite the old is Kenyatta Rd, a long winding alley known laxed and tolerant atmosphere, but it’s still a
Karen Blixen Restaurant (%0733-974756; celty3@ market in the centre of Malindi. All have popularly as ‘Main St’, which runs from Muslim island, with all the associated views
yahoo.it; Galana Centre, Lamu Rd; mains KSh600-950) A daily departures to Nairobi at around 7am the northern end of town past the fort and of acceptable behaviour. Keep public dis-
fine (wait for it) Italian terrace restaurant and/or 7pm (KSh800, 10 to 12 hours), going then south to the Muslim cemetery and the plays of affection to a minimum and respect
hinting at Art Deco style. The menu has all via Mombasa. inland track to Shela. local attitudes to modesty.
342 T H E C OA S T • • L a m u www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • L a m u 343
Lamu
LAMU 0
0 0.1 miles
200 m
Sights GERMAN POST OFFICE MUSEUM
All of Lamu’s museums are open from 8am In the late 1800s, before the British decided
A B C D to 6pm daily. Admission to each is KSh200/ to nip German expansion into Tanganyika
100 for a nonresident adult/child. in the bud, the Germans regarded Lamu as
Jamaa 18
an ideal base from where they could success-
1 Mosque LAMU MUSEUM fully and safely exploit the interior. As part
14 15
Housed in a very grand Swahili warehouse of their efforts the German East Africa Com-
on the waterfront, the Lamu Museum is an pany set up a post office on Kenyatta Rd, and
21 excellent introduction to the culture and the old building is now a museum exhibit-
history of Lamu Island. It’s one of the most ing photographs and memorabilia from that
interesting small museums in Kenya, with fleeting period of colonial history.
23 INDIAN displays on Swahili culture, the famous
7
OCEAN coastal carved doors, the Maulid Festival, DONKEY SANCTUARY
3
Lamu’s nautical history and the tribes who With around 3000 donkeys active on Lamu,
K E N YA
K E N YA
2 11 22 used to occupy this part of the coast in pre- Equus asinus is still the main form of trans-
To Mokowe
(mainland) (5km) Muslim days, including the Boni, who were port here, and this sanctuary (%633303; Haram-
legendary elephant-hunters. bee Ave; admission free; h 9am-1pm Mon-Fri) was
31
13 The pride of the collection are the remark- established by the International Donkey
Main Jetty able and ornate siwa (ceremonial horns) of Protection Trust of Sidmouth, UK, to im-
10
Lamu and Paté, dating back to the 17th cen- prove the lot of the island’s hard-working
Catholic Church
17 To Manda Island tury. Lamu’s siwa is made of engraved brass beasts of burden. The project provides free
INFORMATION (Airport)(1km)
Immigration Office......................1 D4 Bohora
Kenyatta 20 but it pales beside the glorious ivory siwa of veterinary services to donkey owners and
Kenya Commercial Bank..............2 D3 To Matondoni
(6km)
Mosque 27
Paté, carved from a single massive elephant tends to injured, sick or worn-out animals.
3 Lamu Medical Clinic.....................3 C2
tusk. Swahili relics from Takwa and other
Lynx Infosystems.........................4 C4
Rd
Post Office.................................. 5 D4
2
sites in the archipelago are displayed in the Activities
Tourist Information Office........... 6 D5 12 25 Hara gallery downstairs. Taking a dhow trip is almost obligatory and
drifting through the mangroves is a wonder-
mbee
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 26
Donkey Sanctuary........................7 C2
SWAHILI HOUSE MUSEUM ful way to experience the islands. Prices vary
Ave
German Post Office Museum...... 8 D4
Lamu Fort....................................9 C4 32 If the Lamu Museum stokes your interest depending on where you want to go and
Lamu Museum...........................10 C3
Swahili House Museum..............11 B2 4
in Swahili culture, this beautifully restored how long you go for; with a bit of bargaining
33
SLEEPING 1
District
Commissioner's
traditional house tucked away off to the you should pay around KSh500 per person.
Amu House................................12 C3
Main
Office side of Yumbe House hotel will put you Groups of more than five aren’t recom-
4 Casuarina Rest House................13 C2 9 Square firmly back in the past. Inside you’ll find mended as the boats aren’t very big.
Jannat House..............................14 B1 5
Kitendetini Bahari Hotel..............15 C1
To Kipungani
Village (10km)
Shiaithna-Asheri
Mosque
a re-creation of a working Swahili home, Whatever you arrange, make sure you
Lamu Castle Hotel.....................16 C4 16
Lamu Guest House.....................17 C3 Market
with cookware, beds and other furniture. know exactly how much you’ll be paying
Lamu World...............................18 C1 The attendant will give you a whistle-stop and what that will include, to avoid misun-
New Lamu Palace Hotel.............19 D5 Dhow
Petley's Inn................................20 C3
8 Moorings but informative tour in between small talk, derstandings and overcharging. Don’t hand
Pole Pole Guest House................21 B1 6 including some fascinating descriptions of over any money until the day of departure,
Stone House Hotel.....................22 C2
Yumbe House............................23 B2 the regimented lives of Swahilis in the 18th except perhaps a small advance for food.
and 19th centuries. The museum is well On long trips, it’s best to organise your own
EATING
Bosnian Café............................. 24 D6 34 signposted from Kenyatta Rd. drinks. Make sure you take a hat and some
5 Bush Gardens Restaurant...........25 D3 sunscreen, as there is rarely any shade on
Hapa Hapa Restaurant...............26 D3 30
Mangrove Centre...................... 27 D3 29 LAMU FORT the dhows.
New Minaa Café........................28
Whispers Coffeeshop................ 29
C6
D5 Riyadha To
The bulky, atmospheric Lamu Fort squats Most day trips meander around the
Mosque
19
Manda
Beach
on Lamu’s main square like a weary in- channel between Lamu and Manda Islands,
TRANSPORT (4km) truder among the airy Swahili roofs. The and the price includes fishing and snorkel-
Airkenya..................................(see 29)
Falcon........................................30 D5
28
building of this massive structure was begun ling. Lunch is usually served on a beach on
Kenya Airways...........................31 C2
by the Sultan of Paté in 1810 and completed Manda Island. Longer trips head for Manda
Ken
Khadi Star..................................32 D4
in 1823. From 1910 right up to 1984 it was Toto Island, which has better snorkelling.
yat
Tawakal..................................... 33 D4
ta R
TSS............................................ 34 D5 To Civil Servants' used as a prison, and it now houses the is- Multiday trips head out to the remote island
d
Zam Zam.................................(see 30) Club (800m);
6 Dodo Villas/Talking Trees land’s library, and some lacklustre displays of Kiwayu (p356).
Campsite (1km);
24
King Fadh Lamu
District Hospital
on natural history and the environment, Dhows without an outboard motor are
(1.5km); Shela (3km) which a guide will show you around. The entirely dependent on wind and tides, so it’s
To Muslim Cemetery (150m);
Shela (Inland Road) (3.5km)
highlight is scaling the ramparts for some probably unwise to go on a long trip if you
sweeping town views. have a flight or other appointment to meet.
344 T H E C OA S T • • L a m u www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • L a m u 353
Walking Tour - Lamu
Walking Tour 3
(Continued from page 344) Lamu Guest House (%633338; Kenyatta Rd; s/d/tr
The best, indeed only, way to see Lamu town with shared bathroom KSh400/800/900, s/d with private
is on foot. This tour will take you past some 4 Festivals & Events bathroom KSh500/1000,) Behind Petley’s Inn, the
of the more noteworthy buildings in under The Maulid Festival celebrates the birth of the basic rooms are very plain, but the upper-
an hour, but don’t feel bound to follow it too Prophet Mohammed. Its date shifts accord- floor ones are better and catch the sea breeze.
rigidly. In fact, getting slightly lost is a vital ing to the Muslim calendar, and it will fall The ‘official’ rates posted in reception are a
part of the process! on 20 March 2007 and 20 March 2008. The good KSh500 more than quoted here!
Most of Lamu’s buildings date back to festival has been celebrated on the island for Lamu Castle Hotel (%0722-355240; s/d with shared
the 18th century and are constructed out INDIAN over 100 years and much singing, dancing bathroom KSh300/400) A lick of fresh pink paint
of local materials, with cut coral-rag blocks OCEAN and general jollity takes place around this has left the Castle looking rather spruce, but
for the walls, wooden floors supported by time. Organised events include swimming inside it’s just the basics, and even some of
mangrove poles and intricately carved shut- 5 galas, poetry reading, calligraphy compe- the walls seem to be left a little short.
ters for windows. Lavish decorations were titions, donkey races for young boys and
created using carved plaster, and carpenters dhow races for all the dhow captains.
K E N YA
K E N YA
MIDRANGE
were employed to produce ornately carved Main Jetty The Lamu Cultural Festival is another col- Yumbe House (%633101; [email protected]
window and door frames as a sign of the 2
1
ourful cultural event held in the last week of .ke; s/d/tr low season KSh1100/2100/2900, high season
Kenyatta
financial status of the owners. There are August, though it’s actually a recent initia- KSh1290/2700/3860) Close to the Swahili House
so many wonderful Swahili houses that it’s tive, established in 2000 and aimed more at Museum, Yumbe is a tall, traditional house
Rd
pointless to specify examples – keep your tourists than local people. Attractions in- with a leafy courtyard. The pleasant rooms
eyes open and don’t forget to look up. clude traditional dancing, displays of crafts, have fridges and are spotlessly clean, decked
Starting at the main jetty (1), head north such as kofia embroidery (a kofia is a cap out with kangas (printed cotton wrap-around,
past the Lamu Museum (2; p343) and along the worn by Muslim men), and dhow races. incorporating a Swahili proverb), woven rugs
waterfront until you reach the door carving and Lamu furniture. Go for the big, chic
workshops (3). In recent years there has been Sleeping ‘tower’ room right under the thatch.
a real revival in woodcarving, and you can 7 BUDGET Jannat House (%633414; www.jannathouse.com;
once again see traditional carved lintels and Lamu has been catering for budget travellers s/d with shared bathroom KSh2175/3675, with private bath-
doors being made in workshops like these 6 Main
for several decades and still has loads of in- room KSh2625/4500; s) The architects clearly
11
all over Lamu. Square 12 expensive guesthouses. Prices are remarkably had a field day designing the Jannat House:
From here head onto Kenyatta Rd, pass- consistent because of the competition for cli- it’s essentially two houses spliced together
8
ing an original Swahili well (4), and head 10
entele, although you get what you pay for. around a courtyard, with several levels and
into the alleys towards the Swahili House Mu- Rates rise by up to 50% from August to multiple terraces. The lower rooms are dis-
Harambee
seum (5; p343). When you’ve had your fill September and around Christmas and New appointing but the upper levels are as nice
of domestic insights, take any route back Year. At other times there’s plenty of scope as you’d hope for. Follow the signs from Ken-
Ave
towards the main street. for negotiation, especially if you plan to stay yatta Rd; you’ll need to keep looking up.
Once you’ve hit the main square and the for more than a day or two. Touts will invari- Stone House Hotel (%633544; half board s/d US$45/
fort (6; p343), take a right to see the crumbled ably try and accompany you from the jetty to 66) Another wonderful old Swahili place with
remains of the 14th-century Pwani Mosque (7), 9 get commission; the best way to avoid this is Escher-like stairways and a fine leafy court-
one of Lamu’s oldest buildings; an Arabic to book at least one night in advance, so you yard. The hotel has its own superb rooftop
inscription is still visible on the wall. From know ahead of time what you’ll be paying. restaurant (no alcohol) with views over the
here you can head round and browse the Casuarina Rest House (%633123; s/d/tr with town and waterfront. Rooms can be booked
Ken
covered market (8), then negotiate your way with Kisiwani Ltd (%020-4446384).
yat
shared bathroom KSh300/500/700, s/d with private bathroom
ta R
towards the bright Saudi-funded Riyadha KSh400/800) Exactly the kind of friendly per- Amu House (%633420; [email protected]; s/d/tr
d
Mosque (9), the centre of Lamu’s religious sonal vibe that gets people backpacking in KSh1700/2300/2700) Of all the restored Swahili
scene, founded by the great scholar Habib the first place. The roof terrace acts as a social hotels, this beautiful 16th-century house
0 100 m
Swaleh in 1891. lounge, the staff are great fun and the breezy has received perhaps the greatest attention
From here head back to the waterfront, top-floor balcony double is fantastic. It’s to detail. Rates include breakfast, transfers
then stroll back up along the promenade, often full both in and out of season; ongoing from Manda airstrip and a free water-skiing
diverting for the German Post Office Museum ture of any Swahili home, providing an in- expansion should create a few more berths. lesson at Shela Beach. Knock KSh500 or so
(10; p343) if you haven’t already seen it – the formal social setting for men to discuss the Pole Pole Guest House (%0722-652477; s/d KSh500/ off in the low season.
door is another amazing example of Swahili issues of the day. 1000) Pole Pole is north of the centre of Kitendetini Bahari Hotel (%633172; s/d incl
carving. If you’re feeling the pace, take a rest Carrying on up Harambee Ave will bring town and back from the waterfront. One of breakfast KSh700/1200) A borderline budget op-
and shoot the breeze on the baraza ya wazee you back to the main jetty and the end of the tallest buildings in Lamu, it has bright tion set around a neat rectangular court-
(Old Men’s Bench; 11) outside the appealing our tour. doubles with fans and mosquito nets. There’s yard. All rooms have fans, mosquito nets
stucco minarets of the Shiaithna-Asheri Mosque a spacious makuti-roofed terrace area with and fridges, though the toilets lack seats.
(12). Benches of this kind were a crucial fea- (Continued on page 353) great views and its own mini ‘tower’. Prices are usually negotiable.
354 T H E C OA S T • • L a m u www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C OA S T • • S h e l a 355
TOP END Mangrove Centre (Harambee Ave; mains KSh250- BUS SLEEPING & EATING
Lamu World (%633491; www.lamuworld.com; Haram- 380) Facing the main jetty, the restaurant The main bus companies operating between Stopover Guest House (%633459; mtendeni@ikenya
bee Ave; s/d low season US$90/100, high season US$150/200, does a lively trade at lunchtime, and it’s Mombasa, Malindi and Lamu are TSS, Fal- .com; d incl breakfast KSh3000) This is the first place
ste low/high season US$150/250; is) It almost handy for a juice while you wait for a boat con, Zam Zam, Khadi Star and Tawakal. you come to on the waterfront, above the
rankles to recommend something so new in or find your feet on arrival. You’ll find a There are booking offices for all these popular restaurant of the same name. The
such a traditional town, but the pale stone video store and an informal cinema behind companies on Kenyatta Rd, apart from rooms are nice and light with big beds;
design of this luxury establishment is such the eating area. Khadi Star, which has its office on the water- prices should be thoroughly negotiable
a perfect modern interpretation of Swahili Whispers Coffeeshop (Kenyatta Rd; mains KSh240- front. The going rate to Mombasa is KSh400 when it’s not busy.
style that it frankly outshines even some 550; h9am-9pm) In the same building as the to KSh500; most buses leave between 7am Shella Bahari Guest House (%632046; bahari
of the authentic places. There are just 10 posh Baraka Gallery, this is a great place for and 8am, so you’ll need to be at the jetty [email protected]; d low season KSh2000-3000, high
rooms shared between two houses, all with an upmarket meal, a freshly baked cake or at 6.30am for the boat to the mainland. Ta- season KSh2500-4000) Another waterfront place
immaculate fittings. a real cappuccino. There’s a lovely palm- wakal also has 10am and 1pm services. It with a very similar setup to the Stopover.
Petley’s Inn (%633107; www.chaleislandparadise shaded courtyard and simple meals are avail- takes at least four hours from Lamu to Ma- Again, you can often bargain down; aim for
.com; Harambee Ave; s/d US$70/90; s) Petley’s has able even during Ramadan, though it closes lindi, plus another two hours to Mombasa. around KSh500 per person.
K E N YA
K E N YA
plenty of traditional touches, but is look- in the low season. Book early as demand is heavy. Dodo Villas/Talking Trees Campsite (%633500;
ing a bit worn these days. It’s a fine place, Bosnian Café (Kenyatta Rd) One of several dirt- camping per tent KSh400, r KSh600-1200, apt per person
though, especially the ‘penthouse’ room and cheap local canteens at the far end of the Getting Around KSh200) This is Lamu’s only budget beach
rooftop bar. Rates include transfers to and main street that set up takeaway stalls in the There are ferries (KSh40) between Lamu option, 50m back from the seafront on the
from Manda Island airstrip. evening, selling samosas, chapatis, mishkaki and the bus station on the mainland (near Shela–Lamu track. The main building has
New Lamu Palace Hotel (%633164; Harambee Ave; (kebabs), chips and the like from 10 bob Mokowe). Boats leave when the buses ar- large, unfussy rooms and several concrete
s/d US$70/90) This modern hotel is not as sen- apiece. rive at Mokowe; in the reverse direction blocks hold apartments for up to 10 people,
sitively designed as its peers, but rooms are they leave at around 6.30am to meet the de- with more being built.
smart and comfortable, and there’s a good Drinking & Entertainment parting buses. Ferries between the airstrip Peponi Hotel (%633421; www.peponi-lamu.com;
restaurant (mains KSh650 to KSh1200) and As a Muslim town, Lamu caters very poorly on Manda Island and Lamu cost KSh100 s/d high season US$220/300; hclosed May & Jun; s) At
a bar. The problem, as with all the top-end for drinkers; Petley’s Inn (left) and New and leave about half an hour before the the east end of Shela is the top resort hotel
options here, is that you could rent a whole Lamu Palace Hotel (left) are about the only flights leave. on the island, right on the waterfront facing
Swahili house for these prices! places you can sink a cold beer. the Lamu Channel. It blends neatly into the
Civil Servants’ Club (admission KSh100) Along the SHELA surrounding Swahili buildings and offers
Eating waterfront towards Shela village. Virtually This ancient Swahili village, often spelled just 24 individually styled rooms. The hotel
It’s important to know that all the cheap the only reliable spot for a drink and a dance Shella, sits at the start of glorious Shela Beach has excellent facilities, plus a bar and up-
places to eat and many of the more expensive at weekends. It’s small, loud, rowdy and on Lamu island. In some places it seems even market restaurant, all open to nonguests.
restaurants are closed all day until after sun- great fun, though women travelling alone more medieval than Lamu, with few signs of Kijani House Hotel (%633235; www.kijani-lamu
set during the month of Ramadan. should run for cover. modernity along its mazelike alleyways. Al- .com; d US$160-180; hclosed May & Jun; s) Set in
Bush Gardens Restaurant (%633285; Haram- though it’s something of a European enclave, splendid gardens, Kijani was painstakingly
bee Ave; mains KSh180-800) The Bush Gardens is Getting There & Away with almost unseemly amounts of building rebuilt over 10 years from the remains of
the template for a whole set of restaurants AIR going on to cater for foreign demand, it’s still three separate Swahili houses. Like Peponi,
along the waterfront, offering breakfasts, Daily afternoon flights are available with an atmospheric place to wander around, and all manner of activities and trips can be
seafood – excellent fish, top-value ‘monster Airkenya (%633445; Baraka House, Kenyatta Rd) be- the mood is as languorous and laid-back as arranged.
crab’ (KSh400) and the inevitable lobster in tween Lamu and Wilson Airport in Nairobi it’s always been. Island Hotel (%633290; half board s/d US$37/52) In
Swahili sauce (KSh750) – and superb juices (US$143, 1¾ hours). The inbound flights Most people come here for the beach: the centre of Shela is a superb Lamu-style
and shakes. Just about every traveller on also continue to Kiwayu Island (US$65, 15 this spectacular dune-backed strip runs for house with a romantic rooftop restaurant. It’s
Lamu ends up here at some point. minutes). Safarilink (Nairobi %020-600777) runs 12km around the headland, so you’re guar- only five minutes’ walk from the waterfront,
Hapa Hapa Restaurant (Harambee Ave; mains virtually identical services (US$140). anteed a private stretch of sand, and it’s a along the alley beside Kijani House, but you’ll
KSh150-750) Very much in the same vein as Kenya Airways (% 633155; Casuarina House, good place to comb the beach for shells. probably have to ask for directions.
Bush Gardens, and advocated just as vehe- Harambee Ave) has daily afternoon flights be- The Indian Ocean tsunami washed away a Kisiwani Ltd (Nairobi %020-4446384; www.lamu
mently by its regulars, this waterfront ea- tween Lamu and the domestic terminal at lot of sand here, revealing some sharp rocks, homes.com) Rents out whole houses in Shela
tery is a bit more informal and African Nairobi’s Kenyatta International Airport but it’s expected to return to normal within from US$180 to US$280 per day. Proper-
under its low thatch. (KSh10,860, 2¼ hours). a few seasons. ties include Mnarani House, behind the
New Minaa Café (meals under KSh120; h6.30am- Mombasa Air Safari (Mombasa %041-433061) There’s no surf at Shela village because Mnarani Mosque, and Mtakuja House and
midnight) On the road towards the Riyadha flies to Mombasa (US$90, 1¼ hours) via it’s still in the channel between Lamu and Jasmine House, behind the Kijani House
Mosque, this busy, clean rooftop café serves Malindi (US$21, 30 minutes). Book through Manda Islands, which makes it a prime spot Hotel. Book well in advance.
Swahili favourites, such as beef kebabs, ma- Ndau Safaris (%633576). for windsurfing. For traditional surfing, there
haragwe (beans in coconut milk), chicken The airport at Lamu is on Manda Island, are real breakers at the mouth of the chan- GETTING THERE & AWAY
tikka and samaki (fried fish). It’s cheap and and the ferry across the channel to Lamu nel, although this is also the realm of some To get to Shela, you can take a motorised
popular with both locals and travellers. costs KSh100. substantial sharks. dhow from the moorings in Lamu for
ὈὈ
356 T H E R I F T VA L L E Y • • G e o g r a p h y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E R I F T VA L L E Y • • L o n g o n o t N a t i o n a l Pa r k 357
Rift Valley
KSh100 per person (or KSh250 to KSh300 RIFT VALLEY 0
0
20 km
12 miles
In Kenya the Rift Valley can be traced where there’s a path to the park’s access
for a solo ride). Alternatively, you can walk To Lodwar (339km); To Maralal (25km);
through Lake Turkana, the Cherangani Hills, road (ask locals how to find it).
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
it in about 40 minutes. Lake Turkana (406km) Lake Turkana (235km) and Lakes Baringo, Bogoria, Nakuru, Elmen-
Loruk
Lake teita, Naivasha and Magadi. A string of vol- NAIVASHA
ISLANDS AROUND LAMU To Eldoret
Baringo
canic peaks and craters also lines the valley. %050
(73km)
The Lamu archipelago has plenty to offer C51
While most are now extinct, 30 remain active, Bypassed by the new A104 Hwy to Nairobi,
Marigat C77 Distances are
outside Lamu itself. The easiest to get to is Kabarnet Approximate and according to local legend, Mt Longonot Naivasha has become an agricultural back-
Lake
Manda Island, just across the channel, where Bogoria
LEGEND
erupted as recently as 1860. This continuing water. The streets have descended into cra-
most visitors go on dhow trips for snorkelling Rumuruti GS Game Sanctuary activity supports a considerable number of tered madness and services primarily focus
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
Lake Bogoria
m ia
NP National Park
t
NR
and to visit the Takwa ruins. The tiny Manda hot springs and provides ideal conditions for on the area’s blossoming flower industry.
en
NR National Reserve
rp p
ca ki
Toto Island, on the other side of Manda, has B4
Nyahururu C76 geothermal power plants, which are increas- Although a convenient base for visits to
Es ai
perhaps the best reefs on the coast. Nanyuki ingly important in Kenya’s energy supply. Longonot National Park, staying at nearby
L
Further northeast, Paté Island was the Besides providing fertile soil, the vol- Lake Naivasha (p358) is more enjoyable.
Ab
B5
Menengai
er
main power centre in the region before canic deposits have created alkaline waters The only conceivable reason to stop is for
K E N YA
K E N YA
Crater Ol Donyo
da
A104
Hyrax Hill Lesatima
Lamu came to prominence, but is rarely Nakuru
(4001m) in most Rift Valley lakes. These shallow soda supplies en route to the lake, as there are
re
Prehistoric Site
Ὀ
C56
visited now, preserving an uncomplicated Njoro Kiganjo lakes, formed by the valley’s lack of decent very limited stocks in the dukas further on.
Ra
To Kericho Aberdare
traditional lifestyle as much by necessity as (107km); Lake Lake Elmenteita
NP Nyeri drainage, experience high evaporation rates,
ng
Eldoret Nakuru Kariandusi
by choice. A regular motor launch shuttles (107km); Site which further concentrates the alkalinity. Information
e
Gilgil
Kisumu Lake
between the towns of Mtangawanda, Siyu, (192km) Nakuru
NP
Kigio Wildlife
Conservancy The strangely soapy and smelly waters are, Barclays Bank (Moi Ave)
Faza and Kizingitini. Lake Naivasha Naivasha however, the perfect environment for the Cyber Cafe (Kenyatta Ave; per hr KSh120)
Even further out, remote Kiwayu Island is Crater Lake
GS Mt Longonot Old growth of microscopic blue-green algae, Kenya Commercial Bank (Moi Ave)
part of the Kiunga Marine National Re- (2777m) Naivasha
Rd which in turn feed lesser flamingos, tiny Medical Clinic (Biashara Rd; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat,
serve, and gets most of its scant tourist traf- To Masai Mara A104 crustaceans (food for greater flamingos) and 11am-4pm Sun)
National Reserve
fic from extended dhow trips and visitors to (70km) Hell's Gate
NP
Thika insect larvae (food for soda-resistant fish). Post office (Moi Ave)
the exclusive luxury resort on the mainland. Narok B3 Longonot
NP Limuru
Snorkelling here is highly recommended. Ewaso Ngiro
Mt Susua
NAIROBI
LONGONOT NATIONAL PARK Sleeping
(2357m)
Few places offer better Rift Valley views than La Belle Inn (%2021007; Moi Ave; s/d incl breakfast
THE RIFT VALLEY
Ngong
the serrated crater rim of Mt Longonot, ris- KSh2500/2900) A classic colonial-style option,
ing 1000m above the baking valley floor. In with rooms of various sizes and a level of
take the challenge to walk or cycle unguided dog years this dormant volcano is ancient, cleanliness unseen anywhere else in town.
Around eight million years ago Mother through the dramatic gorges of Hell’s Gate while in geological terms it’s a wee pup at Ken-Vash Hotel (% 2030049; s/d/tw KSh1400/
Earth tried to rip Africa clear in two; Africa National Park, you’ll never see a zebra or gir- 400,000 years of age. 2000/2200) A large tourist-class place with
bent, Africa buckled, but Africa never gave affe in the same way again – being on foot is Since the best vistas in this park (adult/child TVs and thick shag carpets, but lacking La
in. The continent’s battle scar, stretching the ultimate amplifier of observation. US$15/5) are only reached with some effort on Belle’s character. It’s off Moi Ave.
thousands of kilometres from Ethiopia to Hikes up the valley’s various dormant foot, peace and quiet accompany the pano- Naivasha Silver Hotel (%2020580; Kenyatta Ave;
Mozambique, forms a series of stunning volcanoes are rewarding and offer tremen- ramas. The steep climb to the rim takes just s/tw KSh600/1000) A slightly more pleasant op-
landscapes. dous views over the rift. Similar views are under an hour, while the rewarding jaunt to tion than other budget lodgings. Rooms and
Some of the most attractive wounds are also available from the viewpoints on the the summit (2777m) and around the crater beds vary in size, so scope out a few. It has a
found in Kenya’s famed Rift Valley, where Old Naivasha Rd as it drops into the valley takes another three hours. Despite the bounty decent restaurant and secure parking.
serrated escarpments and splintered volca- from the town of Limuru. of Rift Valley views, your eyes may just be Kafico Lodge (% 2021344; Biashara Rd; s/tw
noes tower over ochre soils, grassy plains drawn inward to the 2km-wide crater, a little KSh350/600) One of the odd places that ‘seal’ the
and shallow soda lakes. Perhaps it’s Earth’s Geography lost world hosting an entirely different ecosys- rooms after cleaning, meaning you can only
anger over failing to crack Africa that still Kenya’s Rift Valley is part of the Afro- tem. Calculating time for gawking, this 11km see your accommodation after paying. The
causes steam and boiling fluids to spurt from Arabian rift system, which stretches trek should take about six hours. rooms are tattered, the toilets lack seats, but
its surface at Lake Bogoria and Hell’s Gate 6000km from the Dead Sea in the Middle Although security has improved and the they’re comfy enough, and security is good.
National Park… East to Mozambique in southern Africa, KWS no longer requires rangers to escort Sam’s Holiday Inn (%0721-474556; Mbaria Kaniu
Today the valley’s fertile floor, dotted passing through the Red Sea then Ethiopia, you, double-check the situation at the gate. Rd; s/tw KSh250/400) It’s a bit gloomy, but should
with several large freshwater and soda lakes, Kenya, Tanzania and Malawi. A western You can camp in the park, or there are do the trick. Rooms have mosquito nets.
is alive with some of Kenya’s most spec- branch forms a string of lakes in the cen- plenty of hotels in nearby Naivasha.
tacular wildlife. Lake Nakuru’s shores are tre of the continent, including Albert and Eating
often famously dyed pink with hundreds of Edward on the Uganda–DR Congo bor- Getting There & Away La Belle Inn (Moi Ave; meals KSh180-400) Whether
thousands of wading fluorescent flamingos, der, Kivu on the DR Congo–Rwanda bor- If you’re driving, the national park is 75km your stomach is rumbling for curry, steak,
while its forested slopes host significantly der, and Tanganyika on the Tanzania–DR northwest of Nairobi on the Old Naivasha pork, fresh tilapia (Nile Perch) or even
bigger treats, like rhinos, giraffes, buffaloes, Congo border, which joins the main sys- Rd. If you’re without a vehicle, take a matatu apple pie, this colonial veranda is for you.
antelopes and leopards. And if you under- tem at the northern tip of Lake Malawi. from Naivasha to Longonot village, from It’s also a great place for drinks.
358 T H E R I F T VA L L E Y • • L a k e N a i v a s h a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E R I F T VA L L E Y • • L a k e N a i v a s h a 359
Lake Naivasha
Ming Yue Chinese Restaurant (Moi Ave; meals LAKE NAIVASHA 0
0
5 km
3 miles
KSh300-700; hMon-Sat) With a menu boasting WARNING
the likes of bean curd satay, fried bok choi Security has taken a sad turn for the worse A B C D
To Gilgil (25km);
and scrumptious spring rolls, it’s safe to say around Lake Naivasha in the past few years. Nakuru (65km);
Kisumu (267km)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Elsamere Conservation Centre..1 B3
that there’s nothing else like this for miles. With the flower industry paying decent Maasai
Gorge
Dancing Spoons (Biashara Rd; meals KSh60-130) Lo- wages, thousands have flocked here ex- 1 SLEEPING
Burch's Marina ......................2 C2
cated below the Kafico Lodge, this is the res- pecting jobs; of course, in reality there isn’t Crater Lake Camp .................3 A2
taurant of choice for simple Kenyan fare. enough work to go around, and some failed Crayfish Camp ......................4 B3
Rd
e Fish Eagle Inn ........................5 B3
Jolly Cafe (Kenyatta Ave; meals KSh80-220) While jobseekers have turned to crime. Lak Seasonal
ὈὈ
Ford
Fisherman's Camp..................6 B3
rth
A104 Kongoni Game Valley............7 A3
Martha Stewart would gasp at the win- Several lodges have been held up by
No
Lake Naivasha Sopa Resort....8 C3
dow treatments and fluorescent chairs, she
oi
armed thieves, and the owner of one promi-
M
Top Camp .............................9 B3
Naivasha YMCA .................................10 B3
wouldn’t choke on the Kenyan and Western nent place was murdered in 2005. Most
dishes here. top-end lodges have increased security EATING
Geothermal Club .................11 B3
Old
K E N YA
personnel and erected electric fences.
K E N YA
Naiv
Getting There & Away While most visitors enjoy their time here 2 LAKE
ὈὈὈ
asha
The main bus and matatu station is off without incident, it’s wise to take some pre- NAIVASHA
Rd
Mbaria Kaniu Rd, close to the municipal cautions – ask about security measures and Crescent
2
Island
market. Frequent buses and matatus leave always be back in camp before dark. 3 Crater Lake Wildlife
Sanctuary
for Nakuru (KSh120, 1¼ hours), Nairobi Crater
Game Sanctuary
Hippo Point
Karagita
To Nairobi
(KSh150, 1½ hours), Nyahururu (KSh200, Lake
(78km; new road)
1¾ hours) and points west. Some Nairobi been slow, and further drops in the water 8
d
eR
ὈὈὈ
matatus and all those for Kongoni via Fish- level are predicted for the next 15 to 20 Kongoni Oloiden 1 Lak
Lake 11 uth
R i So
erman’s Camp (KSh70, 45 minutes) leave years. Lake d 5 Mo
Moi South 10
from Kenyatta Ave. 3 To Narok 7 6
(61km) 4
Sights & Activities 9
See Hell's Gate National Park Map (p361)
LAKE NAIVASHA On the western side of Lake Naivasha, north To
%0311 of the village of Kongoni, is the Crater Lake Ol Karia
gate Hell's Gate
Nairobi
(67km) To Longonot (10km);
National Park Nairobi (67km; old road)
The area around Naivasha was one of the Game Sanctuary (admission KSh100), a small park
first settled by wazungu (whites) and was a set around a beautiful volcanic crater. Wild-
favourite haunt of the decadent Happy Valley life is plentiful, and the tiny jade-green crater accommodation. All sites are located on or MIDRANGE
set in the 1930s. Along with Karen, near Nai- lake is held in high regard by the local Maa- near Moi South Lake Rd unless otherwise Crayfish Camp (%2020239; [email protected];
robi, it is now probably the largest remaining sai, who even believe its water helps soothe specified. camping KSh250, s with shared bathroom KSh750, s/d with
settler and expat community in Kenya. ailing cattle. Fisherman’s Camp (%2030088; camping KSh200, private bathroom KSh2500/3000; i) Crayfish Camp
The lake level has ebbed and flowed over On the eastern side of the lake is Crescent dm KSh500, s/tw with shared bathrooms from KSh800/1600) can seem more like a beer garden than a
the years, as half-submerged fencing posts Island (adult/child nonresident US$14/7), a wildlife Spread along the grassy tree-laden southern campsite, but it’s not a bad option. The pricey
indicate. Early in the 1890s it dried up al- sanctuary you can visit by boat or car. shore, this is a perennial favourite of camp- new rooms are a bit minimalist, but have
most completely, but over the next 20 years A couple of kilometres past Fisherman’s ers, overland companies and hungry hippos. some charm, while the petite rooms with
it rose a phenomenal 15m and inundated a Camp on Moi South Lake Rd you’ll find El- The site is huge, enabling you to get away shared facilities are very plain Jane. There’s
far larger area than it presently occupies. samere Conservation Centre (%2021055; elsa@africa from the overlander crowds and the noise a restaurant and two bars, kitchen facilities,
It currently covers about 170 sq km and is online.co.ke; admission KSh500; h8am-6.30pm), the from the popular bar and restaurant. With pool tables, and tent, bicycle and boat hire.
home to an incredible variety of bird spe- former home of the late Joy Adamson of overpriced simple rooms and basic bandas, Burch’s Marina (%0733-660372; camping KSh200,
cies, including the fish eagle. Born Free fame. The site is now a public camping is clearly the best option. 2-person rondavels KSh600, cottages d/tr/q KSh2200/
As a freshwater lake, Naivasha’s ecology is conservation centre; entry includes after- Top Camp (% 2030276; camping KSh200, s/tw 2600/3000) A pleasant and well-shaded site,
quite different from that of the Rift Valley’s noon tea (with a chance to see the eastern bandas from KSh500/1000, 5-person cottages KSh5000) with hot showers, a communal cooking
soda lakes. Since the water can be used for black-and-white colobus monkeys), a visit Although lacking Fisherman’s lakeside lo- area and a well. It has a choice of basic
irrigation, the surrounding countryside is a to the memorial room and a showing of the cation, Top Camp boasts crazy lake views twin-bed rondavels (circular buildings with
major agricultural production area; the flower weathered 40-minute Joy Adamson Story. from its hill-top perch. It’s a quiet place with conical roofs) or thatched four-bed family
market has become a major industry here. The only way to visit outside of hours is various tin-roofed, bamboo-walled bandas cottages. Advance booking is mandatory.
Naivasha has been a focus of conser- to sleep here or to book in for a meal. All (almost all have bathrooms). Fish Eagle Inn (%2030306; [email protected];
vation efforts in Kenya, and in 1995 the bookings should be made in advance. YMCA (camping KSh250, dm KSh250, bandas per person camping KSh220, dm KSh450, s KSh2110-2660, d KSh3550-
Lake Naivasha Riparian Association was KSh300-450) For basic roofed accommodation, 4100; s) If you have money to burn and find
formed to educate the estimated 300,000 Sleeping you’ll do no better than the Y. There are two plywood charming, you’ll love the overpriced
people dependent on the lake about the BUDGET dorms and a number of spartan bandas; DIY standard rooms. The ‘Jumbo House’
environmental issues involved. The results Due to its popularity, Lake Naivasha has firewood and bedding can be provided for rooms are even more pricey, but have satel-
are promising, but so far improvement has the Rift Valley’s best range of budget a small charge. lite TV and canopy beds.
ὈὈὈὈὈ
360 T H E R I F T VA L L E Y • • H e l l ’ s G a t e N a t i o n a l Pa r k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E R I F T VA L L E Y • • N a k u r u 361
Hell’s Gate National Park
TOP END rol station in Naivasha around 3pm. Re- HELL'S GATE NATIONAL PARK 0
0
2 km
1 mile
Kongoni Game Valley (%2021070; www.kgvalley.com; turning to town, you’ll need to be on the
full board per person US$150; s) Nothing around A B C D
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Ὀ Ὀ
road by about 7am, otherwise it’s a long,
To Moi South To Moi South Elsa gate
the lake can compare with this grand co- dusty walk. Lake Road (2km) Lake Road (800m);
Naivasha (15km)
lonial farmhouse for utter African safari Gate
Ol Karia
gate
Information Centre
charm. Most rooms surround the house’s Getting Around 1
(closed)
Fischer's
1
lovely courtyard, and boast hardwood floors, Most budget and midrange accommoda- Tower
Ol Karia II
rich rugs, comfortable beds and bear-claw tion options hire reasonable boats for lake
rge
Geothermal
2
Go
Station Hell's Gate
bathtubs. Packages including all activities trips (KSh2500 per hour). Top-end lodges
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Lookout Tw
iga
and trips to Hell’s Gate National Park cost charge KSh3000 to KSh4000 per hour for Ol Karia
Circuit
US$300 per person. similar rides. If you’d rather row row row Lookout
Ol Karia
Geothermal
Station
Obsidian
Caves
Lake Naivasha Sopa Resort (%2050358, Nairobi yourself, Fisherman’s Camp can help you Devil's
Kitchen gate Hobley's
Picnic
Site Bu
ffa
020-3750235; full board s/d US$188/250; s) Towering out (KSh300 per hour). (closed) Volcano Ranger's
post
Central Tower lo
Circuit
cacti and manicured gardens front massive Most sites also hire mountain bikes;
K E N YA
K E N YA
Lookout
luxury cottages at this new resort. Besides Fisherman’s Camp and Fish Eagle Inn both 2
the pool, there’s a gym, sauna and lakeside charge KSh500 per day. You’ll find cheaper
path. The arc-shaped bar and restaurant is rides at various places signposted off Moi Narasha gate (closed) Lower Gorge (Ol Njorowa) SLEEPING
Naiburta Public Campsite...........1 C1
gorgeous. South Lake Rd, but check the contraptions Ol Dubai Public Campsite...........2 C1
To Masai Mara (160km)
Crater Lake Camp (%2020613; crater@africaonline carefully before paying.
.co.ke; low season full board s/d KSh4930/8925, high season
KSh5880/10500) A luxury tented camp nestled HELL’S GATE NATIONAL PARK If you want to explore further, the Buf- Crater Travel (%2215019) One of the few reputable
among trees and overlooking the tiny jade- There’s visiting national parks and then falo Circuit offers fine views over Hell’s Gate travel agencies in town. It’s off Kenyatta Ave.
green lake. The food is good and the service there’s experiencing national parks – and Gorge, the surrounding countryside and the Dreams Cyber World (Kenyatta Lane; per hr KSh120;
excellent, but we’re not sure how the owner’s Hell’s Gate (%050-2020284; adult/child US$15/5) is an serrated profile of a distant Mt Longonot. h8am-8pm, closed 1-2pm Fri) Fast connections and
recent tragic death will affect things. experience indeed. The park is truly unique, This circuit has more soft sections of sand, open Sunday.
Elsamere Conservation Centre (%2021055; elsa@ as it allows you to walk or cycle unguided which isn’t conducive to cycling. Post office (Kenyatta Ave)
africaonline.co.ke; full board s/d US$85/140) Small bun- across its breadth. Knowledge that cheetahs, The park’s western half is much less scenic
galows with great lake views dot the lovely lions and leopards may be lurking only adds and hosts the Ol Karia Geothermal Station. The Sleeping
lawn at Elsamere Conservation Centre to the excitement of it all! plumes of rising steam can be seen from BUDGET
(p358). Although lacking the ‘wow’ factor Keep an eye out for the massive lam- many of the park’s viewpoints. It’s usually Mount Sinai Hotel (%2211779; Bazaar Rd; s/tw/tr
of others, it’s comfortable, friendly and a mergeyers (bearded vultures), which are possible to have a look around the site; ask KSh350/500/650) A big, clean place with sound
relative bargain. slowly being reintroduced. Their wingspans the guards at Ol Karia II. security (iron bars all over!). The rooms on
can reach almost 3m. Camping here is highly recommended. the scenic roof terrace are the brightest of
Eating The scenery is dramatic, with rich ochre Ol Dubai and Naiberta camp sites are prob- the bunch.
Since food and drinks can be had at most of soils and savanna grasses squeezed between ably the best. See p358 for details on other Joska Hotel (%2212546; Pandhit Nehru Rd; s KSh400)
the places listed earlier, there’s little in the looming cliffs of rusty columnar basalt. places to stay and opposite for information Foam mattresses have shag-carpet covers in
way of independent wining and dining. Marking the eastern entrance to Hell’s Gate on how to get to the park. these basic rooms. Everything is rather clean,
Geothermal Club (meals KSh140-270) Set in a Gorge is Fischer’s Tower, a 25m-high volcanic but you’ll have to be a porcelain jockey –
beautiful spot above the lake about 45 min- column named after Gustav Fischer, a Ger- NAKURU the toilets lack seats. Ask for an upstairs or
utes’ walk from Fisherman’s Camp, this man explorer who reached here in 1882 %051 / pop 163,000 inward-facing room, as they’re more quiet.
relaxed restaurant caters for employees of only to have his party slaughtered by local Although Nakuru is Kenya’s fourth-largest Tropical Lodge (%2216847; Moi Rd; s/tw with
the KenGen thermal power plant but will Maasai. The tower is one of the park’s many town, it still has a relaxed atmosphere and shared bathroom KSh250/350) While the bathrooms
happily serve visitors. popular rock-climbing sites. makes a pleasant base for a few days. It’s on are shared, they do have toilet seats (a rarity
Rising from the gorge’s southern end is the the doorstep of the delightful Lake Nakuru in these parts). The rooms are simple, quiet
Getting There & Away large Central Tower (climbing prohibited). A National Park and is only a few kilometres and baby blue. It’s run by a cheerful woman,
Frequent matatus (KSh80, one hour) run picnic site and ranger’s post are close by, from from the deep, dramatic Menengai Crater. which makes up for the odd cockroach.
along Moi South Lake Rd between Naivasha where an excellent walk descends into the Crater View Lodge (%2216352; Mburu Gichua Rd;
town and Kongoni on the lake’s western Lower Gorge (Ol Njorowa). This narrow sand- Information s/tw KSh300/350) All rooms face a bright inner
side, passing the turn-offs to Hell’s Gate Na- stone ravine has been stunningly sculpted by Changing cash and travellers cheques in courtyard, and noise is less than you’d sus-
tional Park and Fisherman’s Camp. water, and the incoming light casts marvel- Nakuru is easy, with numerous banks and pect. The twin rooms are a bargain, even if
It’s a 5km walk from Kongoni to Crater lous shadows. It’s a steep and very slippery foreign exchange bureaus. Barclays ATMs the bathrooms are a bit rough. Secure park-
Lake, but don’t do this alone due to recent descent, but some steps have been cut into the are the most reliable. Plenty of cardphones ing is available.
muggings. rock and whole school parties manage it on are scattered around town. Gituamba Lodge (Gusii Rd; s/tw with shared bathroom
There’s one daily matatu along Moi a regular basis. Flash floods are common, so Aga Khan Satellite Laboratory Lab services and KSh260/345, with private bathroom KSh310/400) Rooms
North Lake Rd, leaving from the Total pet- check with rangers before proceeding. malaria tests (KSh160). It’s off Court Rd. are all bare-bones basics, but they’re rather
362 T H E R I F T VA L L E Y • • N a k u r u www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E R I F T VA L L E Y • • A r o u n d N a k u r u 363
Nakuru
NAKURU 0
0 0.5 miles
1 km in 2003, this contemporary tower hosts Na- Getting There & Away
kuru’s only top-end rooms. Besides modern Buses, matatus and occasional Peugeots
A B C D
Ὀ ὈὈ
Ὀ
comfort, there’s classic fun in Nakuru’s best leave the chaotic stands off Mburu Gi-
ound Rd
swimming pool (nonguests KSh200). chua Rd for Naivasha (KSh120, 1¼ hours),
Showgr
Menengai
Nyahururu (KSh100, 1¼hours), Kericho
1 To Marigat (106km);
Dr
Eating (KSh200, two hours), Nyeri (KSh250, 2½
To Menengai
Lake Bogoria (125km);
Lake Baringo (126km) Crater Bamboo Hut Chinese Restaurant (Giddo Plaza, George hours), Eldoret (KSh200, 2¾ hours), Nai-
(8.5km)
Morara Rd; meals KSh300-700) Highly recommended robi (KSh200, three hours), Kitale (KSh350,
by Nakuru’s expat community, this place 3½ hours), Kisumu (KSh350, 3½ hours) and
Ὀ ὈὈὈὈὈ
To Kisumu (211km)
serves great Chinese fare. Kisii (KSh375, 4½ hours).
15
6 Courtyard Restaurant (meals KSh250-500) This Matatus for Molo (KSh100, one hour)
Rd ta Lane Train Station
To Bamboo Hut Chinese
Restaurant (800m); Kembu A104
Geoffre
y Kamau
9 3
Kenyat
A104
place off Court Rd scratches a variety of leave from Crossland Services (Mburu Gichua Rd),
Campsite (20km); Eldoret
(154km)
19
23 Kenyatta
Ave
13
To Hyrax Hill itches, from Indian to Italian and beef stew while services to Kampi ya Samaki (for
Prehistoric Site
to seafood. As the name suggests, it’s got a Lake Baringo) via Marigat (for Lake Bogo-
K E N YA
K E N YA
2 1 8 5 11 28
24 7 (4km); Nairobi
14 26 17 27
2 Ave 21 Market
(157km)
nice courtyard. ria) leave further south on Mburu Gichua
Pandhit
Kenyatta 20 Nehru Rd Bazaar
Rd
Park 18 To
Ribbons Restaurant (Gusii Rd; meals KSh50-200) Rd. Kampi ya Samaki (KSh200, 2½ hours)
Mburu
16 Nairobi
Court
4 10 e Rd
22 Mosqu (161km)
One of the best restaurants for cheap Ken- costs slightly more and takes 30 minutes
Moses
Gichua
Gusii Rd
Moi Rd
George Town 29
Rd
Morara Rd
ent Ave
Hall Club Rd yan dishes. There’s a balcony overlooking the longer to reach than Marigat.
Mudav
Rd
12 Governm street and the servers are pretty in pink. Buses serve most of the same destinations
Cafe Lemon Tart (Moi Rd; meals KSh100-200) A at slightly cheaper rates.
adi Rd
ge Ave 25
Kipcho
West R
bright and popular café serving Kenyan
AROUND NAKURU
ὈὈὈ
fare. No alcohol is served, which guarantees
d
ng a Ave
a Odi
Oging a peaceful ambience. Menengai Crater
3 Tipsy Restaurant (Gusii Rd; mains KSh100-250) A The gentle slopes of this dormant volcano
To Lake
Nakuru National
Park (1km) fast-food feel, complete with 1970s swivel- conceal a stunning hidden crater, where
INFORMATION Joska Hotel ...............................13 C2 Tickles Pub ................................24 B2
ling chairs. It’s well liked by locals, and offers striking red cliffs radiate outward to en-
Aga Khan Satellite Laboratory......1 B2 Merica Hotel..............................14 B2 reasonable value for Indian and Western- circle a cauldron of convoluted black lava
Barclays Bank...............................2 A2 Midland Hotel ...........................15 B2 ENTERTAINMENT
style food, although dishes can be greasy. flows. While lush vegetation now prolifer-
ὈὈὈ
Barclays Bank...............................3 C2 Mount Sinai Hotel......................16 C2 Nakuru Players Theatre..............25 B3
Cardphones..................................4 B2 Ribbons Restaurant ...................17 C2 XTC Discoteque.........................26 C2 Nakuru Sweet Mart (Gusii Rd) A perennial fa- ates on the harsh crater floor, some 480m
Crater Travel................................5 C2 Tropical Lodge ..........................18 C2
Dreams Cyber World ..................6 C2 TRANSPORT vourite, this bakery dishes out Indian sweets, below, the violent and dramatic volcanic
Kenya Commercial Bank...............7 B2 EATING Bus & Matatu Station.................27 D2 puff pastries and tasty gingerbread men. history is easily seen.
Post Office...................................8 B2 Cafe Lemon Tart .......................19 B2 Crossland Services .....................28 C2
Standard Chartered Bank.............9 B2 Courtyard Restaurant ................20 B2 Matatus to Kampi ya A grim local legend states that the plumes
4 Nakuru Sweet Mart....................21 B2 Samaki & Marigat................. 29 C2 Drinking of steam rising from the bottom are the souls
SLEEPING Tipsy Restaurant .......................22 C2
Crater View Lodge ....................10 C2 Plenty of places in town serve idiot juice of Maasai warriors thrown into the crater
Gituamba Lodge .......................11 C2 DRINKING (beer), including the top-end hotels, and one after a territorial battle, trying to make their
Hotel Waterbuck .......................12 A2 Nakuru Coffee House ................23 B2
wee shop even brews great coffee. way to heaven.
Nakuru Coffee House (Kenyatta Ave) For a While hiking to the viewpoint from town
straightforward caffeine fix, this café grinds offers great views back over Lake Nakuru,
large and some have big bright windows. It MIDRANGE out excellent fresh roasts. it’s rather isolated and tourists have been
can be noisy, so take a top-floor room. Hotel Waterbuck (%2215672; West Rd; s/d/tw KSh2000/ Tickles Pub (Kenyatta Ave) This mellow pub is mugged. To be safe, the 9km walk from
There is no camp site in Nakuru itself, 2500/2500; s) Behind this boring exterior the friendliest choice and has several TVs town should only be done in groups. Alter-
but you can camp in the national park lurk large kitschy African-themed doubles. for footy fans. Things pick up on weekends natively, you can take a taxi for KSh1000.
or 20km west of town at Kembu Campsite Although a bit brash, they’re comfortable when it hosts local DJs.
(% 0722-361102; [email protected]; camping and more memorable than any other room Hyrax Hill Prehistoric Site
US$4, 1-/2-bedroom cottages KSh3000/6000). Kembu in town. The singles and twins are small, Entertainment This archaeological site (adult/child KSh100/50;
has a great atmosphere and it’s particularly dull and lack balconies. Unusually for a rural town, there’s actually h8.30am-6pm) is located just outside Nakuru
popular with overlanders; however, there’s Midland Hotel (%2212125; Geoffrey Kamau Rd; s/d a choice of evening options here. on the Nairobi road. A small visitor’s guide
enough space for smaller parties not to from KSh2300/3700) This popular place has a wide Nakuru Players Theatre (Kipchoge Ave) Four eve- is available from the site’s museum.
be overwhelmed. The larger cottages have range of rooms with wall-to-wall carpets and nings a month this theatre stages entertain- Archaeological excavations were con-
kitchens and are great for families. To get varying levels of comfort. A third wing has ing Kenyan plays. ducted here from 1937 well into the 1980s,
here, take a matatu heading to Molo (via recently been added. XTC Discoteque (Kenyatta Ave) With strobe lights although the significance of the site was first
Njoro; KSh80) and ask to be dropped at and a dark dance floor, it’s the nearest you’ll mooted by Louis Leakey in 1926. Finds at the
the metal gecko sign, about 6km northwest TOP END get to a proper nightclub in Nakuru. They site indicate that three settlements were made
of Njoro on the C56. It’s also signposted Merica Hotel (% 2216013; [email protected]; were playing J-Lo when we visited – we’ll try here, the earliest possibly 3000 years ago, the
from the A104. Kenyatta Ave; half board s/d US$65/110; as) Opened not to hold it against them. most recent only 200 to 300 years ago.
ὈὈὈὈὈ
364 T H E R I F T VA L L E Y • • L a k e N a k u r u N a t i o n a l Pa r k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E R I F T VA L L E Y • • L a k e N a k u r u N a t i o n a l Pa r k 365
Lake Nakuru National Park
From the museum at the northern end be commonplace since the species was re- LAKE NAKURU NATIONAL PARK 0
0 2 miles
4 km
you can take a short stroll around the site, introduced several years ago. The shy black B4
A B C D
ὈὈὈὈὈ
starting with the Northeast Village where rhinos, browsers by nature, are more diffi- To Marigat (105km); To Nyahururu (66km);
13 enclosures, or pits, were excavated. On cult to spot. If you’re very very lucky, you’ll Lake Bogoria (124km); Nyeri (164km)
ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Lake Baringo (125km) See Nakuru Map (p362) B5
the other side of the hill, you come to the catch a glimpse of a rare tree-climbing A104 14
Iron Age settlement and, just north of it, lion. Warthogs are common all over the 1 To Eldoret (150km); Nakuru 2
Kisumu (191km);
a series of burial pits where 19 skeletons park, providing light relief from the ‘seri- Kitale (221km) 12
were found (unfortunately, souvenir seek- ous’ animals with their amusing gait and WWF Office &
ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Lake Nakuru A104
ers have stolen the bones). Two Neolithic upright tails (known to locals as Kenyan an- Field Study
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Centre Lanet
13 Lanet gate
burial mounds were also discovered here, tennas). Along the shore you’ll come across Njoro Main Airstrip
along with more Iron Age pits. Finally, if waterbucks and buffaloes, while Thomson’s Ri
gate Hippo 4
ve 1 Point
you follow the path back to the museum, gazelles and reedbucks can be seen further r
ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
3 Baharini Lookout
there’s a bau board carved in a large rock. into the bush, where there’s also a good Warden's
Springs
9 To Naivasha (61km);
House Nairobi (146km)
This popular game is still played through- chance of seeing leopards. Around the cliffs
K E N YA
K E N YA
out East Africa. you may catch sight of hyraxes and birds of 2 Cormorant
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Picnic Point 8
You’re free to wander the site, but it’s prey amid the countless baboons. A small Site
ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Lion Hill
rather cryptic and a guide is useful – a tip of herd of hippos generally frequents the lake’s Lookout
KSh100 is plenty. northern shore. Cave
10
There’s no better view of the park than
Lake Elmenteita that seen from atop Baboon Cliff as the after-
ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Its bleached shoreline often fringed in pink noon sun casts a warm glow over the lake. Picnic
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Site
thanks to thousands of brilliant flamingos, Since the 180-sq-km park’s creation in
Lake Nakuru
Elmenteita is another of the major Rift Valley 1961, the population of lesser and greater
soda lakes. It’s not a national park, so there flamingos has risen and fallen with the soda 3 Baboon
ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Cliff Pelican
are no entry fees and you can walk around lake’s erratic water levels. When the lake Point
parts of the shoreline that aren’t privately dried up in 1962 (happy first birthday!),
owned. For some water action, Flamingo the population plummeted as it later did in
Camp hires canoes for a paltry KSh100. the 1970s, when heavy rainfall diluted the
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Surrounded by lovely gardens and over- lake’s salinity affecting the lesser flamingo’s
looking Lake Elmenteita, Lake Elmenteita food source (blue-green algae). Over much Euphorbia
Forest
Lodge (%051-8508630; high season full board s/d US70/ of the last decade healthy water levels have
Bridge
100, low season US$120/155; s) has bungalows seen flamingo numbers blossom again. If Lookout Colobus
ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Forest
with dated but well-maintained rooms. future droughts or flooding make them fly 4
Ma
ka
Horseback riding (KSh1500 per hour) and the coop again, you’ll probably find them
lia
Bridge
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Acacia Nderit
walks to the lake are offered. at Lake Bogoria. Forest gate
Nde
Rive
Set right on shore, Flamingo Camp (%0722- Sadly, not all is picture perfect, as in
rit
ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
r
832001; camping KSh200, s/d KSh2000/4000) has recent years pressures on the lake have
Riv
er
small rooms spread between three stone increased. Pollution from Nakuru town,
INFORMATION
rondavels. Although it’s comfortable and pesticide run-off from surrounding farms Main Gate Office.......................1 B2 7
the tiny terraces offer good views, it’s over- and massive deforestation within the water Enasoit
ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Hill
ὈὈὈὈὈ
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
priced. The camp site isn’t bad but would catchment area have all caused concern. Hyrax Hill Prehistoric Site............2 C1 11
be a more attractive option with some A World Wildlife Fund (WWF) project is 5
Naishi
SLEEPING Airstrip
shade. A restaurant and bar are on site. making considerable progress in countering Backpackers' Campsite...............3 B2
6
these problems, and the local afforestation Eldorado Lodge .........................4
Makalia Falls Public Campsite.....5
D2
B6
LAKE NAKURU NATIONAL PARK program continues to plant thousands of Naishi House Banda ..................6 B5
Bridge
With a pink sea of flamingos lapping at its indigenous tree seedlings. Naishi Special Campsite..............7
Nyati Special Campsite...............8
B5
C2
shores, rich areas of grassland, euphorbia Walking in the park isn’t permitted, so Nyuki Special Campsite..............9 C2 Naishi
Sarova Lion Hill Lodge ............10 C2 River
and acacia forests, and rocky cliffs support- you’ll have to hire a taxi, go on a tour or be Soysambu Special Campsite.....11 C5
ing a myriad of animal and bird species, lucky enough to hitch a ride. You can get Wildlife Club of Kenya
Guesthouse..........................12 C1
there’s little doubt why Lake Nakuru National out of your vehicle on the lakeshore and at Wildlife Club of Kenya Youth
Park (%051-2217151; adult/child US$30/10, smartcard re- certain viewpoints, but don’t drive too close 6 Hostel...................................13 C1
Makalia 5
quired) is rivalling Amboseli as Kenya’s second to the water’s edge, as the mud is very soft! EATING
Falls
most visited park after the Masai Mara. The main gate is 2km south of the centre Bamboo Hut Chinese
Restaurant............................14 A1 To Elementeita (4km);
Sightings of grazing or lazing white rhi- of Nakuru. KWS smartcards and official Masai Mara National
Reserve via Narok (182km)
nos at the lake’s southern end now seem to guidebooks (KSh750) are available here.
366 T H E R I F T VA L L E Y • • L a k e B o g o r i a N a t i o n a l R e s e r ve www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T H E R I F T VA L L E Y • • L a k e B o g o r i a N a t i o n a l R e s e r v e 367
Lakes Baringo & Bogoria
Sleeping two million birds. In 2000 it was designated LAKES BARINGO
None of the budget or midrange options MAU FOREST EVICTIONS a Ramsar site, establishing it as a wetland of 0 6 km
& BOGORIA 0 4 miles
provide any meals, so you’ll have to bring In July 2005 Mwai Kibaki’s Kenyan govern- international importance. While lesser fla-
your own food. If camping, make sure your ment forcibly evicted between 10,000 and mingo numbers have dropped significantly A B
To Marich (195km); To Maralal
tents are securely zipped or monkeys and 50,000 locals from their homes in the Mau now that Lake Nakuru has recovered from Cherangani Hills (109km)
baboons will make a right mess. Forest, which sits west of Nakuru and south earlier droughts, this reserve (%0722-377252; 1 Loruk Rongena
Island
of Molo. Citing Kenya’s dismal forest cover PO Box 64, Marigat; adult/child KSh1500/200) is still a
B4
BUDGET (a mere 1.7%), the government claims the fascinating place to visit and a world away
Makalia Falls Public Campsite (adult/child US$10/5) evictions are necessary to protect what’s left from any other Rift Valley lake. 6
While it may be hard to get to and have of Kenya’s fragile forest environment. The Backed by the bleak Siracho Escarpment, Kampi ya
Samaki Ol Kokwe
cruder facilities than Backpackers’, this present government also believes that much moss-green waves roll down Lake Bogoria’s Island
Tu
4
is the best place to camp in the park. It’s of the land was illegally allocated by Moi’s rocky, barren shores, while hot springs and gey-
ge
Parmalok
Island
n
picturesque and sits next to the seasonal government during the run-up to the 2002 sers spew boiling fluids (keep your distance!)
Hil
Lake
Makalia Falls. from the earth’s insides nearby. Amazingly
K E N YA
election. Like Moi, most of the displaced
K E N YA
Baringo
ls
To
Backpackers’ Campsite (adult/child US$10/5) This families are subclans of the Kalenjin tribe. this inhospitable alien environment is a 2 Maralal
ὈὈ
(128km)
large public camp site sits inside the main The force used during the removals and haven for birdlife and at Kesubo Swamp, just to To Kabarnet
gate and has very good camping facilities. the lack of options given to the evictees has the north, more than 200 species have been (24km)
Special camp sites (adult/child US$15/5, plus set-up sparked outrage, with critics likening the recorded. One lucky soul spotted 96 species
Escarpment
C51
fee KSh5000) These are dotted all over the park situation to that of Zimbabwe. With evic- in one hour – a Kenyan record. Marigat
Riv
Logumukum
and have no facilities, but offer a true bush tions scheduled for the forests around Mt The lack of dense brush also makes this er
experience – just you and the animals! Kenya and Mt Elgon, the political firestorm one of the best places in Kenya to see the
ri
ge
ia
ὈὈ
Tig
Wildlife Club of Kenya Youth Hostel (%051- will only heat up in the coming years. greater kudu. The isolated wooded area at
Laikip
ὅ
850929; dm KSh150, s with shared bathroom KSh300, s/tw the lake’s southern end is also home to leop-
with private bathroom KSh500/1000) A nice, very ards, klipspringers, gazelles, caracals and 3
Wa
ὅ
B4 Kesubo
seg
friendly camp site with clean dorms, sim- low season US$80/140; s) Sitting high up the buffaloes. Oh, you’ll also see your fair share Swamp
es
5
ple singles and two-bed bandas, complete lake’s eastern slopes, this lodge offers 1st- of donkeys and cattle, too.
with cooking areas. class service and comfort. The views from While the odd Kenyan tourist visits the To
Nakuru
Reserve HQ Riv
er
the open-air restaurant/bar and from most springs, few people venture further south, (60km) Radat
ὈὈ
Loboi gate
Sir
ac
MIDRANGE rooms are great. Rooms are understated but meaning you may well have the place to
ho
Lake Bogoria
National
Esca
Wildlife Club of Kenya Guesthouse (%051-851559; pretty, while the flashy suites are large and yourself. You now have the bonus of being Reserve
Lake
rpm
PO Box 33, Nakuru; s/tw with shared bathroom KSh800/1600) absolutely stunning. able to explore on foot or bicycle, though SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
ent
Hot Springs & Geysers.........1 B4
This place is great: facilities include hot stay clear of the small buffalo popula- 1
Bog
showers, TV lounge, and use of the kitch- Getting There & Away tion. If you’d like a guide (half-/full day 4 SLEEPING
oria
Acacia Camp ......................2 B4
en’s fridge, gas cooker and microwave. The If you don’t have your own vehicle, the only KSh500/1000), enquire at Loboi gate. Fig Tree Camp ....................3 B4 Maji 3
Moto
rooms are clean and comfortable. way into the park from Nakuru is by taxi or Island Camp Baringo ...........4
Lake Bogoria Hotel...............5
B2
B3
gate 2
Eldorado Lodge (%051-851263; camping KSh300, on an organised tour. A taxi for a few hours Sleeping & Eating Samatian Island ...................6 B1 Emsos
gate
To
Mogotio
s/d KSh1000/1500; s) Just outside the park’s should cost KSh2000, though you’ll have to Camping is the only sleeping option within (22km)
Lanet gate, this place is a viable option for bargain hard. the reserve. If you’d prefer a roof, there’s a
camping if you roll up to closed park gates in More enjoyable options are One World Tours top-end hotel nearby and various dives near pools. Rooms in the hotel are large and
the evening. Rooms are overpriced and the & Safaris (%0733-621598; PO Box 13047, Nakuru), the Loboi gate. bright, while those in the new cottages (same
pool is a little too green for our liking. which charges KSh6000 for an open-topped Fig Tree Camp (camping KSh500) Nestled beneath price) are more modern and much more
eight-seat 4WD (about six hours), and Crater a stand of massive fig trees is this fantastic comfortable. The restaurant (lunch/dinner
TOP END Travel (% 051-2215019; off Kenyatta Ave, Nakuru), site. The loos lack doors and baboons can buffets KSh600/KSh700, mains KSh100 to
Naishi House Banda (bookings %051-2217151; 6-person which has three-seater jeeps for KSh4500 be a nuisance, but there are brilliant views KSh350) serves a variety of dishes, includ-
cottage plus 2-person annexe Jan-Jun US$200, Jul-Dec US$250) (also for six hours). down the lake and the 2km drive (4WD ing several vegetarian options.
Sit on the shady terrace and watch zebras If you’re driving, there’s access from the only) or hike from the main park road is Some cheap accommodation is available
and rhinos grazing on your very doorstep – main gate, just outside Nakuru; the Lanet worth the trip alone. in the nearby town of Marigat. This area is
no fences here! This charming self-catering gate, a few kilometres south on the Nairobi Acacia Camp (camping KSh500) A pretty lakeside also a good place to buy locally produced
cottage is very comfortable, complete with a road; and the Nderit gate, near the southern site shaded by acacias, with some soft grass asali (honey), which is sold from countless
lovely fireplace, sitting room and full kitchen. end of the lake. for pitching tents. You’ll have to bring your roadside kiosks for around KSh150 a bottle.
The annex was designed for safari drivers own water.
and is pretty basic. The park’s main gate han- LAKE BOGORIA NATIONAL RESERVE Lake Bogoria Hotel (%051-2216441; lakebogoria@ Getting There & Away
dles bookings and payments. In the late 1990s this reserve’s shallow soda wanachi.com; s/d incl breakfast US$70/90; s) Set in There are three entrance gates to Lake Bogo-
Sarova Lion Hill Lodge (%020-2713333; www lake achieved fame as ‘the new home of the lovely grounds 2km before the Loboi gate, ria – Emsos in the south, Maji Moto in the
.sarovahotels.com; high season full board s/d from US$160/220, flamingo’, with a migrant population of up to this is a quality option with two swimming west and Loboi in the north. The turn-off for
368 T H E R I F T VA L L E Y • • L a k e B a r i n g o www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S 369
Emsos and Maji Moto gates is at Mogotio, popular with the drivers of safari vehicles, rented as a unit, and the hefty price tag is
38km past Nakuru on the B4, but both these BARINGO WILDLIFE which is generally a good sign! The rooms worth it for the glorious isolation. Transfers
routes are inaccessible without a 4WD. Crocodiles and hippos apart, Lake Baringo’s are a little shabby but OK. The toilets are from Kampi ya Samaki are included.
Loboi gate is a far more straightforward main attraction is the birdlife and the lake rather odoriferous.
point of entry, reached by taking a turn-off is the bird-watching centre of Kenya. Over Weavers Lodge (%0721-556153; Kampi ya Samaki; Eating & Drinking
shortly before Marigat. It’s 20km from here 1200 different species of bird are native to s/tw KSh350/700) Down a rocky alley off the Thirsty Goat (Roberts’ Camp, Kampi ya Samaki; meals
to the actual gate along a good, sealed road. the country, and more than 450 of them town’s main drag, Weavers has good-sized KSh300-450) This lovely open-air restaurant
The sealed road continues to the hot springs, have been sighted here. People come from rooms that come with fans, mosquito nets and bar serves a welcome variety of foreign
but is in horrendous shape. all over the world to try to catch a glimpse and comfortable beds; sadly toilet paper, fare. It’s a bit pricey, but when your nose
Without your own vehicle, Loboi gate of something rare; Lake Baringo Club (op- soap and hot water are often lacking, and gets a whiff of the Moroccan meatballs,
can be accessed by matatu from Marigat posite) even has a ‘resident ornithologist’ the constant loud music from the bar can your taste buds will step on your whinging
(KSh50, 30 minutes). Regular matatus serve who leads bird-watching walks and gives be a pain. wallet’s tongue.
Marigat from Nakuru (KSh180, two hours) advice to guests. A few years ago she set a Lake Baringo Club (Kampi ya Samaki; lunch/dinner
and Kabarnet (KSh140, 1¼ hours). buffets KSh1300/1460, mains KSh300-700) As you’d
K E N YA
world record for the number of species seen
K E N YA
MIDRANGE
in one 24-hour period – over 300! Roberts’ Camp (%851879; camping KSh350, bandas s/ hope for this price, the food is mostly ex-
LAKE BARINGO tw with shared bathroom KSh1000/2000, 4-person cottages cellent. While you may shed a tear paying
%051 KSh5000) Easily spotted off Kampi ya Samaki’s KSh120 for a large Tusker, one sip of it on
This rare freshwater Rift Valley lake, encir- boat offices all over town, and literally every- main drag, this fantastic camp site is right on the shady terrace or lakeside lawn and you’ll
cled by mountains and its surface dotted one you talk to will claim to have access to the lake, and offers great camping facilities, soon be laughing again.
with picturesque islands and hippos batting a boat and be able to undercut anyone else’s tents, comfortable cottages, cooking facili- Self-caterers should remember that fresh
their eyelids, is a spectacular sight indeed. price. A speciality is a trip to see fish eagles ties and an open-air restaurant/bar. Camp- vegetables and fruit are generally in short
Topping the scenic surrounds is an amazing feeding; the birds have learned to dive for ers need to exercise some common sense supply in Kampi ya Samaki. Bring much of
abundance of birdlife, with over 450 of the fish at a whistle, making for great (if slightly regarding the hippos, which may graze right what you need – Marigat usually has a good
1200 bird species native to Kenya present. contrived) photo opportunities. outside your tent at night. Ideally you should selection.
For years bird-watchers have come here There’s a constant twittering, chirping and stay at least 20m away from them when you
from all over the world to glimpse the rare cooing of birds in the trees around the lake, can. No-one’s been seriously hurt by a hippo Getting There & Away
and beautiful feathered flyers. and even if you’re not an avid ‘twitcher’, it’s in almost 15 years here, but some readers A 25-seater bus leaves Kampi ya Samaki for
Despite being listed as Kenya’s fourth hard to resist setting off on a dawn bird walk, have had decidedly close calls! Nakuru each morning between 6.30am and
Ramsar site in January 2002, the lake has when you have a good chance of seeing horn- 9.30am (KSh 200, 2½ hours). Failing that,
been plagued with problems over the past bills or a magnificent fish eagle in action. TOP END hop on one of the regular pick-up trucks
few years. Irrigation dams and droughts Lake Baringo Club (opposite) offers the most Lake Baringo Club (%850880, Nairobi %020-650500; to Marigat (KSh50, 30 minutes) and catch
caused the water level to drop alarmingly; knowledgeable guides and charges KSh1100 [email protected]; Kampi ya Samaki; full board more frequent matatus from there to Nakuru
severe siltation due to soil erosion around per person for a 60- to 90-minute walk. s/d low season US$120/150, high season US$150/180; s) (KSh160, two hours) or Kabarnet (KSh140,
the seasonal luggas (creeks) has meant the Cultural tours to Pokot, Tugen and Njemps Set in sprawling lakeside gardens, this is a 1¼ hours).
water is almost always muddy; and the lake villages close to the lake are also offered grand old place. The rooms are pleasant if A gravel track connects Loruk at the top
has been overfished so badly that any tila- by the Lake Baringo Club (KSh 600); the uninspired, with angled wooden ceilings, end of the lake with the Nyahururu to Ma-
pia caught these days are rarely more than Njemps are local cousins of the Maasai, comfortable beds, wee terraces and linoleum ralal road. If you have your own transport,
15cm long. The water level has risen again mainly practising pastoralism and fishing. floors. Facilities include a swimming pool, it’s a rough but bearable road; there’s no
recently, but the situation is still very deli- You’ll usually be allowed to walk around games room, badminton court and library, public transport along it and hitching is
cate, and with further droughts expected freely and take photos, but in return you’ll all open to nonguests for KSh200. There’s a extremely difficult. You can usually buy
the ecosystem remains at risk. probably be hassled to buy handicrafts. nightly slide show featuring beautiful birds petrol at Lake Baringo Club; if you’re head-
Lake access is easiest from Kampi ya Samaki There’s an additional KSh500 charge for sighted around Lake Baringo. ing northeast, it’s worth noting that after
on the lake’s western shore, some 15km north entering each village. Island Camp Baringo (bookings %020-4447151; Marigat, there’s no reliable supply until
of Marigat. This small, quiet town used to be If nothing mentioned so far has floated full board s/d US$220/295; s) This luxury tented Maralal.
a fishing village, but now depends almost en- your boat, there’s even an uninhabited and lodge sits on Ol Kokwe Island’s southern
tirely on tourism. Sadly the recent problems
have caused visitor numbers to drop, result-
ing in even tougher times for the commu-
uncharted ‘Devil’s Island’, with a fearsome
reputation among the normally prosaic lo-
cals. The rock forming the cliffs outside of
tip and makes a perfect hideaway. It’s beau-
tifully conceived with 23 double tents set
among flowering trees, all overlooking the
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS
nity. It’s still a lovely place to visit and locals town are also apparently suitable for technical lake. Facilities include two bars and water- Forming the eastern wall of the Rift Valley
would greatly appreciate the business. rock-climbing. sports equipment. Price includes transfers and climbing from the heat of the northern
from town. plains are the Central Highlands, Kenya’s
Activities Sleeping Samatian Island (bookings %020-4447151; Kampi undisputed heartland. What better monu-
The most popular activity around Lake Bar- BUDGET ya Samaki; full board s/d US$255/510) For a truly ex- ment to the region’s importance than Mt
ingo and touted as competitively as the Masai Bahari Lodge & Hotel (%851425; Kampi ya Samaki; clusive experience, this is the place to be. Kenya, the country’s highest mountain and
Mara is in Nairobi are boat rides – there are s/tw with shared bathroom KSh200/400) Bahari is The three chalets on this tiny island are Africa’s second-highest peak.
ὈὈὈ Ὀ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
370 C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • N y e r i www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • N y e r i 371
Central Highlands
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS 0
0
40 km
20 miles
Sights & Activities able, charging KSh2500 per person (mini-
To Maralal
SOLIO GAME RESERVE mum two passengers) plus park fees for a
This private 17,500-acre reserve (%55271; B5
ὈὈ
LEGEND (60km)
B9
two-hour drive.
Laikipia To Marsabit
GR Game Reserve
NP National Park Plateau (270km) Hwy; adult/child/vehicle KSh1600/free/500), 22km north If you fancy getting your head in the
Il Ngwesi To Wajir
NR National Reserve Isiolo (297km) of Nyeri, plays a major part in preserving clouds, the Gliding Club of Kenya (Map p374;
Lake
C77 Lewa
Wildlife l s Maua
and breeding black rhinos in Kenya. Most %0733-760331; [email protected]; PO Box 926,
Conservancy
of the hook-lipped horned beasts wandering Nyeri), based 2km south of Mweiga, fits the
l
Bogoria Rumuruti
Hi
A2 Meru
C91
national parks were actually born here. Its bill. A 10-minute flight costs US$50.
ni
NP
e
Nya mb
current population of rhinos would make Every Sunday and public holiday the Green
ὈὈὈ
Nyahururu C76 Meru
Ol Pejeta Nanyuki some sub-Saharan countries blush! Hills Hotel (Map p372; Bishop Gatimu Rd) hosts a day-
Conservancy Mt Kenya
(5199m)
The reserve also hosts animals like oryxes, long mini-festival of traditional dance, music
Mitunguu
B5 B5 Naro Moru
B6 gazelles, hartebeests, giraffes and buffaloes. and puppetry. It’s free and great for kids. A
Mt Kenya
NP
Chogoria
While visiting you’ll probably see the beau- dip in the swimming pool is KSh200.
Ol Kalou Solio River
Ab e
tiful crowned crane and several varieties of
K E N YA
K E N YA
Ol-Doinya GR
Nakuru Lesatima
paradise birds. Sleeping
rd
Chuka
Tana
(4001m) Mweiga
Ὀ ὈὈὈ
ar
Lake Aberdare Kiganjo Self-drive safaris are permitted, with free BUDGET
e
Nakuru NP
Nyeri
Ra
Lake Karatina
maps available at the front gate. Allmen- Most of the cheap options will curl your toes,
Middle
C69 Mukurwe-ini Kerugoya Ishiara
Nakuru NP Embu
ng e
Gilgil
Lake A2
dinger’s guesthouse (p372) offers half-day so here are some of the better picks.
Elementeita North
Kinangop Kinangop B7 trips for US$60 per person (minimum two Central Hotel (Map p372; % 2030296; Kanisa
Sagana
Plateau
B6 Kiritiri
Kiambere
Reservoir To Garissa
people, plus admission). Rd; s/tw incl breakfast KSh600/850) Central hosts
Naivasha
South
Karaba (190km) bright, clean yet slightly cramped twins
Lake Kinangop Mwea
Naivasha
A104 NR Kamburu BADEN-POWELL MUSEUM and more roomy singles, with many
Masinga
Hell's Gate
NP
A2
Reservoir Sitting within the Outspan Hotel’s beautiful boasting balconies. Service is a step up
Mt Longonot Kaewa
(2777m)
Mangu Masinga grounds, this museum (admission KSh100; h8am- from most.
Longonot
NP Thika
Thika River Thitani 6pm) was the former cottage of Lord Baden- Ibis Hotel (Map p372; %2034858; Kimathi Way; s/tw
Kilimambongo
B3
Limuru A3
Kangonde Powell, founder of the international Scout KSh500/800) Representing good value, Ibis has
To Masai Mara To Nairobi Kiambu
Ruiru To Nairobi
Ol Donyo
Sabuk NP Yatta B7 Association. You’ll find oodles of scouting comfortable and clean rooms with brilliant
National Reserve (98km) (15km) (72km)
paraphernalia and great mid-20th-century power-showers.
photos. The man himself is buried behind Paresia Hotel (Map p372; %2032765; s/tw KSh300/
Densely populated and intensively cul- deal of forest remaining, demand for timber St Peter’s Church (B5 Hwy). 500) With red cement floors and blue lino-
tivated, the Central Highlands are home to be used as construction material and fire- leum showers, Paresia is as colourful as it
to the Kikuyu people, Kenya’s largest and wood (the most common form of fuel for OTHER ACTIVITIES is cheap. Some rooms smell a bit musty, so
most politically favoured group. Squeezed cooking and heating) puts it at risk. Wildlife drives into Aberdare National Park sniff a few. It’s off Gakere Rd.
gloriously into the mix are the national are available through Nyeri’s three top-end Nyeri Star Restaurant & Board & Lodging (Map
parks of Mt Kenya, Aberdare and Meru, NYERI hotels. Outspan Hotel is the most reason- p372; %2031083; Gakere Rd; s/tw KSh300/500) Slightly
which hold an array of landscapes, wildlife, %061
flora and fauna unseen elsewhere, as well as A well-provisioned, lively place and one of
some amazing trekking possibilities. the Central Highlands’ largest towns, Nyeri BEHIND THE BEANS
The Central Highlands’ Laikipia Plateau, is the administrative headquarters of Central Kenya is a great place to buy coffee, and it is one thing you’ll have no problem taking out of
which stretches into northern Kenya from Province and gateway to Aberdare National the country. However, next time you’re sipping a frappuccino or demanding extra froth on your
Nanyuki, is also home to a pioneering con- Park. In colonialism’s early days Nyeri was US$4 skinny latte, spare a thought for Kenyan coffee farmers, who number among the planet’s
servation project that has communities and a garrison town, but quickly became a trad- worst-exploited commodity producers.
ranches working together to protect and ing and social centre for white cattle ranch- Coffee became something of a cause célèbre in 2002 when Oxfam International launched its
foster wildlife outside national parks. This ers, coffee growers and wheat farmers. The Make Trade Fair campaign, highlighting the huge gulf between farmers’ earnings and the massive
effort can only bode well for the region’s verdant surrounds are intensively cultivated profits enjoyed by multinational ‘roasters’. According to Oxfam, coffee prices had slumped to a
future. for vegetables, sugar cane, citrus fruits, ba- 30-year low, with farmers worldwide receiving around US$1 per kilogram, while the international
That said, the Central Highlands does nanas, tea, coffee and macadamia nuts. industry, worth over US$2 billion annually, charged consumers almost US$15 per kilo.
have its problems, most of which are tied On a clear morning you can see distant Mt The global market remains hugely oversupplied and buyers effectively force farmers to accept
back to the purchase, division and distri- Kenya in all its snowcapped glory. However, whatever price they offer. Kenyan growers receive as little as 4% of auction prices – a serious
bution of many white farmers’ lands to the few travellers linger more than two nights. crisis for a country exporting up to 32,000 tonnes of coffee annually.
Kikuyu after independence. This subdiv- Thankfully the Make Trade Fair campaign has made gains and some major roasters now deal
ision, with its frequent encroachment on Information partially in Fair Trade Coffee, albeit an infinitesimal fraction of their business. The sooner you
one of Kenya’s few remaining large forested Barclays Bank (Kenyatta Rd) demand Fair Trade Coffee for your skinny latte, the sooner the unjust imbalance facing Kenyan
areas, has lead to frequent water crises and Kenya Commercial Bank (Kenyatta Rd) farmers will be rectified. So get ordering – you can sleep later!
soil erosion. Although there’s still a great Standard Chartered Bank (Kenyatta Rd)
372 C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • N y e r i www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • A b e r d a re N a t i o n a l Pa r k 373
Nyeri
NYERI 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
Town View Cafe (Map p372; Kimathi Way; meals Viewing wildlife here isn’t like on the
KSh60-180) A small but welcoming option for open savanna of Amboseli and Masai Mara.
A B C D
Ὀ
traditional Kenyan fare. The dense rainforest of the Salient provides
INFORMATION Nyeri Star Restaurant & Board & Impala Place Pub (Map p372; Kanisa Rd; lunch buffets excellent cover for the animals, so take your
Barclays Bank...............................1 B2 Lodging...................................9 C3 KSh200; h12.30-4pm Mon-Fri) While aiming to time and stay a few nights.
Kenya Commercial Bank...............2 B2 Paresia Hotel..............................10 C3
1 Standard Chartered Bank.............3 A2 please the business-lunch crowd, it should Thanks to rough terrain and minor roads
EATING put a smile on your face, too. turning into mud traps during the rains,
To Aberdare National Park SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Bahati Bar & Restaurant..............11 B2
Headquarters (11km); Gliding Club of Green Hills Hotel..........................4 A3 Green Oaks................................12 B2 Bahati Bar & Restaurant (Map p372; Kimathi Way; KWS restricts entry to all but 4WD vehicles.
Kenya (11km); Mweiga (13km);
Aberdare Country Club (13km);
Baden Powell
St Peter's Church.........................5 A2 Impala Place Pub........................13 A2 chicken & chips from KSh150) When we asked to see If you’re prepared to hire a vehicle, join the
Allmendinger's Guesthouse (14km) Raybells......................................14 B2
Solio Game Reserve (22km); Municipal Park
SLEEPING Town View Cafe........................15 B2 the menu, staff stated, ‘We do chicken and lodges’ tours, or hoof it on foot, your efforts
Nanyuki (60km) 5 Batian Grand Hotel......................6 C3
Central Hotel...............................7 A2 DRINKING
chips.’ Need we say more? will be rewarded.
Ch
ani Kirinyaga Tavern (Outspan Hotel; Map p374) While If you want to enter through the Tree-
Kanisa Rd
Ibis Hotel......................................8 B2 White Rhino Hotel.....................
a 16 A2
Baden
13 Riv
Powell
Rd
B5 8
15 19 TRANSPORT r e located behind the posh hotel’s gates, it is tops or Ark gates, simply ask permission
Post
actually reasonable and separate from the at the park headquarters, between Mweiga
K E N YA
K E N YA
11 Local Matatus.............................17 B2
7 Office Clock Tower
Way 12
2 Kimathi 17 Lower Bus Stand........................18 C2
hotel’s bar. It has a bonfire and traditional and Nyeri on the B5 Hwy, where you can
Main 14 Upper Bus Stand.........................19 B2
3 Post Office
Kenyatta
Rd dancing on Saturday nights. buy smartcards and excellent 1:25,000 maps
2 Municipal K
Nyeri Golf Club
16 Ga
ker
e R Market
ima
thi
White Rhino Hotel (Map p372; Kenyatta Rd) The (KSh450). Map proceeds go directly to the
d Wa
To Outspan Hotel (1km); Mosque 1
18
y bar is the only reasonable remnant of this Rhino Ark Charitable Trust, which is con-
Baden Powell Museum
(1km); Kirinyaga Tavern
Police
Post
9 Office
old hotel. Look out for its ever-popular reg- structing an electric fence around the per-
(1km); Aberdare National
Park (30km)
Ke Vegetable
6 Hospital gae nights. imeter of the Aberdare National Park and
10
Bish
op
ny Market
att
aR
Clothing Hindu greater Aberdare Conservation Area.
4 d Market Temple
Getting There & Away
Ga
tim
Rd The upper bus stand deals with big buses Activities
Playing
u
Catholic ple
Field
Rd
Church
m
3 and sporadic matatus to most places, while KWS currently advises against trekking in
Te
the lower stand houses local buses and the Salient, as the dense cover makes walk-
multitudes of matatus heading in all direc- ing dangerous for visitors, but the high
To Nairobi
(155km)
tions. Some local matatus are also found on moorland and four main peaks (all 3500m
Kimathi Way. to 4000m) are excellent trekking locations.
Matatus run to Nanyuki (KSh100, one As on Mt Kenya, heavy rain can arrive at
rougher around the edges than nearby Aberdare Country Club (Map p374; %2055620, hour), Nyahururu (KSh130, 1¼ hours), Thika any time, so you must be prepared. Mud
Paresia, it still has hot showers and some Nairobi %020-216940; www.fairmont.com; low season full (KSh200, two hours), Nakuru (KSh250, 2½ and reduced visibility are two good reasons
sizable rooms. The upstairs outward-facing board s/tw US$87/172, high season US$162/230; s) Sur- hours), Nairobi (KSh250, 2½ hours) and El- not to trek during the heavy rains (March to
rooms are brightest and most quiet. rounded by its own 500-hectare sanctuary doret (KSh400, five hours). Buses duplicate May). You’ll need advance permission from
east of Mweiga, this club sits atop a hill and most of these lines; you may occasionally the warden, who’ll provide an armed ranger
MIDRANGE has glorious views. Its new owners, Fairmont, have to change at Karatina for Nairobi. (KSh1000 per day) to guide you. Lonely
Batian Grand Hotel (Map p372; %2030743; batian plan on pumping millions into the place. The Planet’s Trekking in East Africa has full de-
[email protected]; Gakere Rd; s/tw KSh700/1000) Front view and character should remain, but the ABERDARE NATIONAL PARK tails of the walks.
rooms face Mt Kenya at this well-appointed rooms and service will be truly 1st class. Created in 1950, this park (%061-2055024; adult/ Trout fishing here is very popular, espe-
place with good facilities (when the boil- Allmendinger’s Guesthouse (Map p374; %0733- child US$30/10, smartcard required) essentially en- cially high up on the moors, but requires a
ers aren’t leaking). The small inward-facing 760331; [email protected]; PO Box 926, Nyeri; full closes two different environments: the strik- permit from park headquarters (KSh100).
singles are darker than the larger carpeted board s/tw US$98/148) Just west of the Aberdare ing 60km stretch of moorland, peaks and Kiandongoro Fishing Lodge makes a good
twins and doubles. A coffee shop, restaurant Country Club, Allmendinger’s comes highly forest atop the western Kinangop Plateau, base and the Chania River is great for brown
and pub are downstairs. recommended, although the road here can and the eastern outcrop of dense rainforest trout, but watch your back – there are tales of
be difficult during the rains. Prices include known as the Salient. fishers being stalked by lions! Lions or not,
TOP END walking, hiking and bird-watching. The park has varieties of fauna, flora and best get an armed ranger to escort you.
Outspan Hotel (Map p374; %2032424, Nairobi %020- scenery not found elsewhere. Elephants and
4452103; www.aberdaresafarihotels.com; Apr–mid-Jul full Eating & Drinking buffaloes dominate, but other species, in- Sleeping
board s/tw from US$98/130, mid-Jul–Mar US$130/160) Green Oaks (Map p372; Gakere Rd; meals KSh80-220) A cluding black rhinos, giant forest hogs, black BUDGET & MIDRANGE
Formerly part of Block Hotels, this lovely local favourite, with tasty curries and stews, servals and rare black leopards, can also be Public camp sites and the following accom-
property has new owners, who are keen a lively bar and a great vantage point from seen. Look out for the few remaining lions modation options must be booked through
to up the standard while maintaining the the balcony. (most were removed to protect endangered park headquarters.
historic character. The ‘standard’ rooms Raybells (Map p372; Kimathi Way; meals KSh90-220) bongo antelopes) from the viewing plat- Kiandongoro Fishing Lodge (Jan-Jun 7-person cot-
(15 to 21), with stone fireplace and doors An excellent Western-style ‘family’ restaur- forms next to the dramatic Chania Falls and tages US$200, Jul-Dec US$250) Sitting in an excel-
opening onto beautiful gardens, have the ant and takeaway, serving everything from Karura Falls. Gura Falls, which drops a full 300m lent spot on the high moor by the Gura
most character. samosas to pizza. down into thick forest, is less accessible. River, these two large stone cottages offer
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Ὀ Ὀ
374 C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • A b e r d a re N a t i o n a l Pa r k
Aberdare National Park
ABERDARE NATIONAL PARK
A B C
0
0
www.lonelyplanet.com
D
12 km
7 miles
www.lonelyplanet.com
Getting There & Away
Access roads from B5 Hwy to the Wan-
C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • N y a h u r u r u & T h o m s o n ’ s Fa l l s 375
way as the rocks on the side of the ravine are
often very loose.
ὈὈὈὈὈ
deris, Ark, Treetops and Ruhuruini gates There are some fantastic walks down-
Solio Game
To the
Rhino
To Nyahururu
(72km) Reserve To Naro Moru are in decent shape, while the road from stream through the forested valley of the
Nyeri/Nyahururu (14km)
road (11km) gate
B5
Nyeri to Kiandongora gate is horrendous. Ewaso Narok River and upstream a couple
River
1 Regular Nyeri–Mweiga matatus (KSh50, of kilometres to one of the highest hippo
Solio
To Nyahururu (30km); Ongobit 35 minutes) pass KWS headquarters and the pools in Kenya. Take time to explore a lit-
Gilgil (53km)
main park gates. Since trekking the Salient tle. Guides are fairly easy to find, especially
is inadvisable, most trekkers use the Wan- around the souvenir shacks overlooking the
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Shamata
Mweiga 3
deris gate. falls, but you’ll have to bargain hard.
re
gate 4
Enga
Chebuswa Ark Treetops
A
(3364m) Wanderis gate gate Nyeri’s Outspan Hotel charges KSh2500 The falls were named by Joseph Thomson,
b e
gate Amboni River 1
9 2 per person (minimum two people) for wild- the first European to walk from Mombasa to
rd
14 life drives into the lower Salient, while the Lake Victoria in the early 1880s.
a
5 t
re
Seasonal
lien Lookout
Aberdare Country Club charges US$160 per
K E N YA
K E N YA
Road Sa
Park are River 10 To Naro Moru (26km);
2 Ol Donyo Lesatima Sub-HQ erd Thaara Nanyuki (58km)
vehicle. Sleeping
(4001m) Ab
ὈὈὈὈὈ
15
Nyahururu has a couple of places with single
River
C69
Table Mountain Ruhuruini er
7 Nyeri NYAHURURU & THOMSON’S FALLS rooms for KSh150, but that’s really scraping
Riv
(3791m) R
a
Honi gate %065 the bottom of the barrel.
Set next to Thomson’s Falls, one of Kenya’s Safari Lodge (Go Down Rd; s/tw KSh300/500) This
n
Chania
g
Falls Chania most impressive waterfalls and the town’s massive new place is clean, bright and very
e
8
Maratini Hill
(3698m) Kiandongoro former namesake, is the town of Nyahu- affordable. Hot water is on demand and there
gate
ὈὈὈὈὈ
11 INFORMATION ruru. At 2360m, it is Kenya’s highest major are even sockets to charge your mobile.
National Park Headquarters.......1 D2
12 town and has a cool, invigorating climate. County Hostel (s KSh200) Off Sulukia Rd be-
3 13
6 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Besides the falls and some nice forested hind the Nyandarua County Council head-
r
Rive Gliding Club of Kenya................2 D2
E580 Gu
ra walks, most travellers find little reason to quarters, this place has quiet rooms with
Karura Falls
Lookout SLEEPING
Aberdare Country Club..............3 D1
linger more than a day or two. bathrooms and even toilet seats. At this price
Karura
Falls
Allmendinger's Guesthouse....... 4 D1 One of the last white settlements to be that’s saying something!
Ark............................................5 C2
established in the colonial era, Nyahururu Nyaki Hotel (%22313; s/tw KSh350/800) This
r
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Rive
Mutubio Gura Kiandongoro Fishing Lodge........6 C3
West gate
ru
ra Falls Outspan Hotel...........................7 D2 didn’t take off until the arrival of the Gilgil relatively modern building hosts small but
River
Ka Public Campsite.........................8 C3
Public Campsite......................... 9 D2
railway spur in 1929, but the trains now comfy singles and large clean twins that are
Public Campsite....................... 10 D2 carry only freight, and the town is once again essentially poor-man’s suites. There are also
Gura
Public Campsite.......................11 C3
Reedbuck Public Campsite.......12 C3 becoming an agricultural backwater. The hot-water showers and secure parking. It’s
4 North
Sapper Hut...............................13 B3 surrounding plateau is intensively cultivated off Kenyatta Rd.
Kinangop Kinangop
Treetops.................................. 14 D2
(3906m)
Tusk Camp..............................15 C2 with maize, beans and sweet potatoes. Thomson’s Falls Lodge (%22006; tfalls@africaonline
C69
The Elephant The best approach to town is the amaz- .co.ke; camping KSh300, s/tw incl breakfast KSh2200/2800)
(3590m) DRINKING
To Naivasha
(15km) To South Kinangop (8km); Thika (84km)
Kirinyaga Tavern......................(see 7) ingly scenic road from Nakuru, which snakes While the white planters are long gone, this
up and down through the Sukukia Valley’s nostalgic and cosy lodge overlooking the
undulating farmlands and dense forests. falls still has character to spare. The main
bathrooms, gas-powered kitchens, dining was at this floodlit waterhole in 1952 that a building and cottages have rooms with log
rooms and fireplaces. sleeping princess became Queen Elizabeth Information fireplaces and decent facilities. The grassy
Sapper Hut (exclusive use per night KSh2000) A sim- II. After the Mau Mau guerrillas turned the Barclays Bank (cnr Sulukia & Sharpe Rds) camping ground is a right bargain, with free
ple banda, with an open fire, two beds and a original into ashes, a much larger rendi- Clicks Cyber Cafe (Mimi Centre, Kenyatta Rd; per hr firewood and hot showers. It’s off B5 Hwy.
hot-water boiler, overlooking a waterfall on tion was built. Today Treetops’ exterior KSh180)
the Upper Magura River. quite resembles a weathered shipwreck, Kenya Commercial Bank (Sulukia Rd) Eating
Tusk Camp (exclusive use per night KSh6000) Near but despite its quirks, the place reeks of Post office (Sulukia Rd) Thomson’s Falls Lodge is the best (and
Ruhuruini gate, these four wee cottages charm. only) place to go for a minor splurge. Stuff
provide beds for eight to 10 people. Ark (%020-216940; www.fairmont.com; low season full Sights yourself at a buffet (KSh800), or delve into
board s/tw US$75/150, high season US$185/250) What this Located on the town’s outskirts and formed some Irish stew, mutton specialties and
TOP END modern upscale version of Treetops lacks in by the waters of the Ewaso Narok River, beef burgers (mains KSh150 to KSh500).
The following prices include transfers (self- history and charm, it makes up for in com- Thomson’s Falls plummets over 72m into a The grounds are a great place for a picnic,
drive isn’t permitted). Children under seven fort and wildlife viewing. Sitting higher in ravine and the resulting spray bathes the though it will cost KSh50 per group.
are prohibited at both lodges. the Aberdares, Ark’s floodlit waterhole is dense forest below in a perpetual mist. Get Noni’s Cafe (Mimi Centre, Kenyatta Rd; meals KSh60-
Treetops (% 020-4452095; www.aberdaresafari surrounded by grasses and mountain forest, down, get close and get wet, we say! A series 150) Easily the cleanest and most welcoming
hotels.com; mid-Jul–mid-Dec full board s/tw with shared which attracts a wider array of animals than of stone steps leads to the bottom of the of Nyahururu’s local eateries. It’s a great spot
bathroom US$135/180, mid-Dec–mid-Jul US$198/250) It Treetops. ravine – don’t attempt to go down any other for breakfast.
376 C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • M t K e n y a N a t i o n a l Pa r k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • M t K e n y a N a t i o n a l Pa r k 377
Nyahururu
NYAHURURU 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
technical climbing. As you might imagine, Another problem can be unpredictable,
there are superb views over the surrounding harsh, cold, wet and windy weather. The trek
A B C D country from Point Lenana, although the to Point Lenana isn’t easy and people do die
To Rumuruti (32km);
Maralal (149km) 7 Thomson's summit is often cloaked in mist from late on the mountain every year. The best time
Falls morning until late afternoon. Above 3000m to go is from mid-January to late February
C77
1 is mountain moorland, characterised by re- or from late August to September.
Nye
ri Rd markable alpine flora. Unless you’re a seasoned trekker with high
INFORMATION As marvellous as the summit is, a common altitude experience and a good knowledge of
Barclays Bank.................................1 C2
Clicks Cyber Cafe.......................(see 10) B5 To Nanyuki (94km);
Nyeri (115km)
complaint from trekkers is that they didn’t reading maps and using a compass, you’d be
Kenya Commercial Bank ................2 C2
Post Office.....................................3 C2
allow enough time to enjoy the entire moun- flirting with death by not taking a guide or
To Nakuru
(68km)
Catholic Church tain. Walks through the foothills, particularly qualified companion. Even those with ample
Ewaso Narok Riv e
SLEEPING
County Hostel................................4 C2
those to the east and northeast of the main experience should take a guide if attempting
Nyaki Hotel....................................5 C2
5
peaks, and the Summit Circuit around Batian the Summit Circuit.
Safari Lodge...................................6 C3
and Nelion, are dramatic and tremendously
K E N YA
K E N YA
Thomson's Falls Lodge...................7 D1
2 B5 10
EATING
Hospital
2
4
3
rewarding. You won’t regret setting aside a Equipment Hire
S ulu
week or 10 days rather than just four days for Well-maintained hire gear is available at the
r
Covered Market.............................8 B3 kia Rd
1
Fair Budget Stores Supermarket......9
Noni's Café..................................10
C2
C2
Police
Station Town Hall a summit rush. Naro Moru River Lodge (p383), although
12
Open-Air Market.........................11 C3 9 it can’t be reserved and is relatively ex-
Kenyatta Rd
Information pensive (US$4 per day for a sleeping bag).
Sharpe Rd
Train Station
DRINKING Stadium
Equator Lodge..............................12 C2 The daily fees for the national park (%061-55645; Most guiding companies will have cheaper
TRANSPORT 8 11
PO Box 253, Nyeri; adult/child US$15/8) are charged equipment for hire, although you’ll have less
Bus & Matatu Station...................13 C3
Clock
upon entry, so you must estimate the length choice and lower standards.
Koinange Rd C77 Tower of your stay. If you overstay, you must pay
Ol Kalou Rd
Mosque
3 the difference when leaving. You’ll have to Guides, Cooks & Porters
13
pay an additional KSh50 per day for each Considerable effort has been made in re-
6
Go Down Rd guide and porter you take with you. Always cent years to regulate guides and porters
To Kawa Falls Hotel ask for a receipt. operating on the mountain. The KWS now
(300m); Gilgil (70km)
Before you leave Nairobi, buy a copy of issues vouchers to all registered guides and
Mt Kenya 1:50,000 Map & Guide (1993) by porters, who should also hold identity cards;
For those who want to prepare their own MT KENYA NATIONAL PARK Mark Savage and Andrew Wielochowski. It they won’t be allowed into the park without
meals, there are fruit and vegetables at the Astoundingly, just 16km from the equa- has a detailed topographical map, and full them.
open-air market (off Koinange Rd). The tor, 12 glaciers continue to shape the jag- descriptions of the routes, mountain medi- Female guides are becoming more com-
brave can also find meat at the covered mar- ged roots of what was once Africa’s tallest cine, flora and fauna, and accommodation. mon, and technical guides for climbing Ba-
ket (off Koinange Rd). The Fair Budget Stores mountain. After seeing the 5199m worth Lonely Planet’s Trekking in East Africa has tian and Nelion are widely available.
supermarket (Kenyatta Rd) is fairly well stocked. of dramatic remnants that today comprise more information, details on wilder routes
Mt Kenya (now Africa’s second-highest and some of the more esoteric variations that COSTS
Drinking & Entertainment mountain), it’s easy to understand why the are possible on Mt Kenya. Basic qualified guides and cooks will cost
Equator Lodge (Sharpe Rd) We’ll give this local Kikuyu people deified it and still believe it’s Technical climbers and mountaineers you KSh750 per day, while porters charge
bar an ‘A’ for effort regarding its kitschy for- the seat of their supreme god Ngai. should get a copy of Mountain Club of Kenya’s KSh650. More knowledgeable guides will set
ested façade. Inside it gets a ‘C’ for late night Fortunately for the many travellers who (MCK; Nairobi %020-602330; www.mck.or.ke) Guide you back US$15 per day, cooks and porters
carnage. try the ascent every year, Ngai doesn’t seem to Mt Kenya & Kilimanjaro, edited by Iain US$12 per day. These fees don’t include park
Kawa Falls Hotel (Ol Kalou Rd; admission KSh100; to be concerned by trekkers. However, you’d Allan. MCK also has up-to-date mountain entry fees and tips (budget around a day’s
hweekends) This popular hotel disco occa- be wise not to temp fate, so treat Mt Kenya information posted on its website. wages per person as a tip, but make it clear
sionally hosts well-known Kenyan DJs. with the utmost respect (see Responsible it is only for good service).
Trekking, p437). Besides being venerated by Safety If you ascend the mountain along one
Getting There & Away the Kikuyu, Mt Kenya has the rare honour Mt Kenya’s accessibility and the technical route and descend along a different one,
Numerous matatus run to Nakuru (KSh100, of being both a Unesco World Heritage Site ease with which Point Lenana is reached you’ll be responsible for arranging and pay-
1¼ hours) and Nyeri (KSh150, two hours) and a Unesco Biosphere Reserve. create their own problems for enthusias- ing to transport guides and porters back to
until late afternoon. Less plentiful are services Mt Kenya’s highest peaks, Batian (5199m) tic trekkers. Many people ascend much too your starting point. It is wise to sort this
to Naivasha (KSh200, 1½ hours), Nanyuki and Nelion (5188m), can only be reached by quickly and end up suffering from altitude out before you start and agree on a price for
(KSh250, three hours) and Nairobi (KSh250, mountaineers with technical skills. How- sickness. By spending at least three nights return transport plus any additional costs.
three hours). The odd morning matatu ever, Point Lenana (4985m), the third- on the ascent, you’ll enjoy yourself much Porters will carry up to 18kg for three-day
reaches Maralal (KSh300, three hours). Sev- highest peak, can be reached by trekkers and more; with proper clothes and equipment, trips or 16kg for longer trips, excluding the
eral early morning buses also serve Nairobi is the usual goal for most mortals, offering you stand a much better chance of making weight of their own food and equipment. If
(KSh230 to KSh250, three hours). a fantastic experience without the risks of it back down as well. you want them to carry more, you’ll have
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
378 C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • M t K e n y a N a t i o n a l Pa r k
Mt Kenya National Park
MT KENYA NATIONAL PARK
A B C
0
0
www.lonelyplanet.com
D
5 km
3 miles
www.lonelyplanet.com
possible in three if you arrange transport
between Naro Moru and the Met Station,
C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • M t K e n y a N a t i o n a l Pa r k 379
path that traverses the southwest ridge
parallel to the Lewis Glacier, which has
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
but doing it this quickly risks serious alti- shrunk more than 100m since the 1960s.
To Sirimon Gate (9km); To West Marania Roadhead (5km);
Sirimon Junction (18km)
4
Si
Timau Track Junction (34km)
Ri
tude sickness. A final climb or scramble brings you up
st
rim
We
ve
r onto the peak. In good weather it’s fairly
Sir
on Kazita
im
straightforward, but in bad weather you
O
GUIDES & PORTERS
on
1
nt
ul
SLEEPING
ili
Apart from the Naro Moru River Lodge in shouldn’t attempt to reach the summit un-
River
Rou
Liki North Hut..........................1 B2
te
Mackinder's Camp...................2 B3
Naro Moru itself, guides, porters and cooks less you’re experienced in mountain condi-
Ri
Minto's Hut.............................3 C2 er
Riv
ve
can be booked through Mt Kenya Guides & tions or have a guide.
r
Old Moses Hut.........................4 B1 The Barrow East
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Lik
iN (4192m)
a
Shipton's Camp.......................5 C2
zit
ort
Porters Safari Club (p383). Its office is 5km From Point Lenana most people return
Ka
hR
ive
along the road towards the Naro Moru gate, along the same route; assuming you sum-
ute
r
Li
M
Ro
ki
ac
but staff also scout for business at hotels mit early, you can reach the Met Station
ki
nd
au
er
1
in town. on the same day. Alternatively, you can re-
River
Tim
(3993m) Mutonga
Mountain Rock Lodge (Map p382; %062-62625; turn to Austrian Hut, then take the Summit
K E N YA
K E N YA
Na River
2 ny
uk
iN
Va
lle Vall
ey Lake [email protected]) also provides guides/ Circuit around the base of the main peaks
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Nan y Terere inde
or Sendeo Ellis
To Kampi Ya yuk
Machengeni (11km)
i R
iver
th
Ri
(4714m)
(4704m)
H
Mugi
porters for this route at US$15/12 per day. to reach the top of one of the other routes
ve
Nan
yuki
Ha
usb r
Shipton's
Hill before descending.
South Rv erg
Caves (4200m)
Old Moses Highland
Valle
y 5 The Hat
Ch
ogo THE TREK
ria
Trail
The Burg
Foxes
Castle
uret See Mt Kenya
3 (4300m)
Ro
ute
Starting in Naro Moru town, the first part Sirimon Route
Rou Summit Map (p380)
Cave te Pt Piggott Pt Lenana
(4985m)
Lake
Michaelson
Nittii Falls of the route takes you along a relatively A popular alternative to Naro Moru, this
Go
Batian
(5199m)
Delamere
Peak
rge
s V To Meru good gravel road for some 13km to the start route has more spectacular scenery, greater
Teleki Va
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
a lley Mt Kenya Lodge
lley N
To Met Station Hut (1km) ort Tilman
Peak
Macmillan
Peak
Ru
gu
ti
(3.5km) of the forest. Another 5km brings you to the flexibility and a gentler rate of ascent, al-
her
Rv
n Naro
Moru Grigg
Coryndon
Peak park entry gate (2400m), from where it’s though it is still easy to climb too fast, so
3 Police Signals Picnic
Rocks
Naro Moru Route 2
Peak
Enchanted
8km to the road head and the Met Station allow at least five days for the trek. It’s
(4200m) Lake
North
Station
Ho
Somerfelt
Castle Peak ble
y
Carr Hut (Map p382; 3000m), where you stay for well worth considering combining it with
Lakes
Hohnel
Valley Lake
Hill
Hidden
Valley the night. the Chogoria route for a six- to seven-day
Tarn
obi River
Hohnel
River On the second day set off up the Teleki Val- traverse that will really bring out the best
Nair
ley to the edge of the forest at about 3200m. of Mt Kenya.
From here you scale the so-called Vertical Bog
to negotiate an added cost. A normal day’s son per day, but drop as low as US$80 for onto a ridge, where the route divides into GUIDES & PORTERS
work is regarded as one stage of the jour- five or more people. two. You can either take the higher path, In Nanyuki guides operating out of Mt Kenya
ney; if you want to go further you’ll have to Naro Moru River Lodge (p383) also runs which gives better views but is often wet, Mountaineering Information Office (Map p384;
pay two days’ wages, even if porters don’t a range of all-inclusive trips. Its prices are or the lower, which crosses the Naro Moru %0733-340849; Mt Kenya Paradise Hotel) are gener-
do anything the following day. more expensive than most (US$135 to River and continues gently up to Mackinder’s ally quite reliable, but ask to see their KWS
US$220 per person per day), but it’s the only Camp (Map p378; 4160m). This part of the registration and go over your planned route
Organised Treks company that can guarantee you beds in the trek should take about 4½ hours. Here you in detail. The people at Montana Trek & Informa-
If time is limited or you’d prefer someone Met Station Hut and Mackinder’s Camp. can stay in the dormitories or camp. tion Centre (Map p384; %062-32731; Jambo House Hotel,
else to make all the trekking arrangements, There are several safari companies in Nai- On the third day you can either rest at Mac- Lumumba Rd, Nanyuki) seem to know their stuff.
there are plenty of possibilities. All-inclusive robi that offer Mt Kenya treks, but many just kinder’s Camp to acclimatise or aim for Point Guides/porters are also available for hire
packages – which include park entry and sell other operators’ treks. See p94 for list- Lenana (4895m). This stretch takes four to five from Mountain Rock Lodge for US$15/12
camping fees, food, huts, a guide, cook and ings. Local companies with their own treks: hours, so it is common to leave around 2am per day.
porters, and transfers to and from the moun- KG Mountain Expeditions (%062-62403; www (you’ll need a torch or flashlight) to reach the
tain – can be a good deal, particularly if you .kenyaexpeditions.com; PO Box 199, Naro Moru) Offers summit in time for sunrise. From the bunk- THE TREK
don’t have any equipment. all-inclusive packages from US$265 per day (depending on house, continue up past the ranger station to It is 15km from Nanyuki to the Sirimon Gate,
Picking the right company is even more group size), as well as budget options for around US$80. a fork in the path. Keep right and go across and transport is included with prebooked
important here than on a normal wildlife Mountain View Tours & Trekking Safaris (%062- a swampy area, followed by a moraine and packages. Otherwise take a matatu towards
safari, as an unqualified or inexperienced 62088; PO Box 48, Naro Moru) Recommended by readers as then up a very long scree slope – this is a hard Timau or Meru, or arrange a lift from town.
guide could put you in real danger as well being cheap and reliable. Prices are negotiable, but expect slog. Austrian Hut (Map p380; 4790m) is three From the gate it’s about 9km through the
as spoil your trip. to pay around US$60 to US$70 per day. to four hours from Mackinder’s and about forest to Old Moses Hut (Map p378; 3300m),
Mountain Rock Safaris Resorts & Trekking Ser- one hour below the summit of Lenana, so where you can spend the first night.
vices (%020-242133; www.mountainrockkenya.com; PO Naro Moru Route it’s a good place to rest before the final push. On the second day you could head
Box 15796-00100, Nairobi) is a real specialist at Mt Although the least scenic, this is the most Facilities are basic, although the hut has been straight through the moorland for Shipton’s
Kenya climbs and runs the Mountain Rock straightforward, popular route, and still a recently refurbished. Camp, but it is worth taking an extra day
Lodge (p383) near Naro Moru. Its day rates spectacular and very enjoyable trail. Allow The section of the trek from Austrian Hut to go via Liki North Hut (Map p378; 3993m),
for all-inclusive trips start at US$135 per per- a minimum of four days for the trek; it’s up to Lenana takes you up a narrow rocky a tiny place on the floor of a classic glacial
380 C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • M t K e n y a S u m m i t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • M t K e n y a N a t i o n a l Pa r k 381
Mt Kenya Summit
0.3 miles
e
valley. The actual hut is a complete wreck
To Minto's
Hut (2km)
THE TREK
ut
500 m
Route
Ro
and is only meant for porters, but it’s a The main reason this route is more popular
ia
or g
Chogoria
ho
good camp site, with a toilet and stream as a descent is the 29km bottom stage. While
C
nearby. You can also walk further up the it is not overly steep, climbing up for that
valley to help acclimatise. distance is much harder than descending
F
Tooth
The
On the third day head straight up the it. Either way, it’s a beautiful walk through
0
Austrian Hut................................ 1 D4
50
450
45
western side of the Liki North Valley and farmland, rainforest and bamboo zones. You
Tooth
00
Col
over the ridge into Mackinder’s Valley, join- can camp near the Forest Station (Map p382),
46
ing the direct route about 1½ hours in. After 6km out of town, but you’ll still have 23km
Simba Col
(4620m)
Simba
Tarn
crossing the Liki River, follow the path for to walk the next day. Transport is available
0
0
another 30 minutes to reach the bunkhouse from the village, but it’ll cost you, and even a
Square
Tarn
4700
at Shipton’s Camp (Map p378; 4200m), set Land Rover may struggle in the wet.
Lower Simba
00
in a fantastic location right below Batian Camping is possible at the gate, or you
SLEEPING
oute
47
Tarn
0
Harris
475
on R
Tarn
and Nelion and within sight of two glaciers, can stay nearby in Meru Mt Kenya Lodge (Map
K E N YA
K E N YA
E
Sirim
ὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
4650
which can often be heard cracking. p382; 3000m); with transport to town avail-
Pt Lenana
Face
4800
From Shipton’s you can push straight able and a small shop selling beer, it’s a fa-
(4985m)
rth
Path
4550
No for Point Lenana (4895m), a tough three- to vourite with people coming down.
ana
Circuit
Len
four-hour slog via Harris Tarn and the tricky On the second day head up through the
To Shipton's Camp
e
Ridg
500
north face approach, or take the Summit Cir- forest to the trailhead (camping is possi-
50
00
(750m)
Gregory
46
00
a
Glacier
46
an
it
0
50
Len
44
cuit in either direction around the peaks to ble here). From here it’s another 7km over
Summ
460
45
450
reach Austrian Hut (Map p380; 4790m), about rolling foothills to the Hall Tarns area and
4
Pt Thompson
one hour below the summit. The left-hand Minto’s Hut (Map p378; 4300m). Like Liki
Glacier
Lewis
50
43
(east) route past Simba Col is shorter but North, this nasty hut is only intended for
D
1
4750
Curling
Pond
4700
steeper, while the right-hand (west) option porters, but the area makes a decent camp
takes you on the Harris Tarn trail nearer the site. It has a stream for water and a long-
4850
Mt Kenya Thompson's
main peaks. drop loo, which, incidentally, finally has a
Glacier
Krapf
00
48
Flake
From Austrian Hut take the standard door (though it won’t close!). Don’t use the
0
ὄὄ
ὄὄὄὄ
ὄ
ὄὄ
Lewis
0
Tarn
(5188m) 485
480
southwest traverse up to Point Lenana. If tarns here to wash anything, as they have
National Park
you’re spending the night here, it’s worth already been polluted by careless trekkers.
(5199m) Nelion
Kami
Tarn
50
having a wander around to catch the views From here you follow the trail up along-
60
46
4
0
470
Northey
4650
Diamond
Glacier
up to Batian and down the Lewis Glacier side the stunning Gorges Valley (another pos-
Batian
Glacier
0
495
50
into Teleki Valley, as well as the spectacular sible descent route for the adventurous) and
Pt John
(4883m)
C
Darwin
Glacier
45
ice cave by the Curling Pond. scramble up some steep ridges to meet the
0
455
Pt Dutton
ὄὄ
Path
4700
Summit Circuit, which can take you in ei-
Pt Peter
Hausberg Col
Pt Slade
(4591m)
Chogoria Route
Midget
ther direction. It is possible to go straight for
Peak
45
00 This route is justly famous for crossing some the north face or southwest ridge of Point
it
Glacier
Joseph
Circu
Tyndall
Glacier
of the most spectacular and varied scenery Lenana, but stopping at Austrian Hut or
Cesar Glacier
4450
on Mt Kenya, and is often combined with detouring to Shipton’s Camp is probably a
American
Camp
the Sirimon route (usually as the descent). better idea and gives you more time to enjoy
mit
Sum
The only disadvantage is the long distance the scenery.
Tyndall
Tarn
Pt Piggott
(4957m)
between Chogoria village and the park gate.
To Mackinder's Camp (500m);
B
Allow at least five days for a trek here. Sleeping
4300
Hausberg
0
Teleki Valley (500m)
Tarn
485
You can camp (adult/child US$10/5) anywhere on
GUIDES & PORTERS the mountain; the nightly fee is payable to
4250
50
MT KENYA SUMMIT
47 0
470
The best place to organise guides and por- KWS at any gate. Most people camp near
Oblong
0
465
Tarn
0
40
ters is the Mt Kenya Chogoria Guides & Porters the huts or bunkhouses, as there are often
4
Tarn
Hut
Association (Map p382;%064-22096) at the Transit toilets and water nearby.
te
Arthur's Seat
4500
Terminal
u
Eastern
Ro
4350
(4666m)
50
Terminal
Motel (p389) near Chogoria village. Guides There are several huts on the mountain
Western
u
43
or
00
M
50
44
and porters aren’t available beyond Chogoria owned by MCK, but the only one that’s in
ro
Two Tarn
44
Na
Nanyuki
Burguret Route
4450
Tarn
Forest Station. reasonable shape nowadays sits 5188m up
00
A
If you want porters to walk the whole on Nelion’s summit – not for the typical
Emerald
45
Tarn
stretch between Chogoria and the park punter!
To Kampi ya
Machengeni
00
43
gate, you may be charged two extra days’ Accommodation along the major trek-
(1.5km)
wages – make sure you negotiate everything king routes, whether in huts or larger bunk-
2
3
1
before you leave. houses, is described under each route.
382 C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • N a r o M o r u www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • N a n y u k i 383
Around Mt Kenya
AROUND MT KENYA 0
0
20 km
12 miles
BUDGET Getting There & Away
Note that the two top-end options both have There are plenty of buses and matatus head-
A B C D
ὈὈὈὈὈ
great camp sites. ing to Nanyuki (KSh60, 30 minutes), Nyeri
To Isiolo (19km); Maralal (227km);
Mt Kenya Hostel & Campsite (Map p382; %62412;
Ew
To El Karama
Ranch (10km)
as
o Marsabit (332km) (KSh80, 45 minutes) and Nairobi (KSh300,
Ng
A2
Mt Kenya Ring Rd [email protected]; camping KSh250, dm KSh400) three hours).
About 8.5km from town and 7.5km from the
iro
1
Kirua
B6 park gate, this place offers simple accommo- NANYUKI
Rive
14 dation, a large camp site, kitchen facilities, %062
r
To Nyahururu and a restaurant and bar. It hires limited Founded by white settlers in 1907, Nanyuki
ὈὈὈ
(67km) Timau To Meru National
Park (65km)
C76
mountain gear as well as a 4WD vehicle. Mt is a small but very energetic country town.
C91
10 A2
3
Kenya treks can be arranged here, too. It is a popular and friendly place to base
Rive
r Meru
12
Bu Mountain View Hotel (%62088; A2 Hwy; s KSh520) Mt Kenya treks, especially if taking on the
rg 13
This is the best option in town and is very Sirimon and Burguret routes, though you’ll
Mt Kenya Ring Rd
Nanyuki 16 a
u
Ol Pejata ret zit Katheri
8 Ka
basic. Red cement floors host large single probably experience some initial hassle from
K E N YA
K E N YA
Li
Conservancy 17 See Mt Kenya National Park Map (p378)
ki
Na River
Riv
2 ny
beds and the bathrooms have hot showers. the slew of guides, touts, hawkers and cheeky
Na
Haile uk
er Mor
ro
ὈὈὈ
Nanyuki Selassie i R
ive
To Nyahururu
Airport Rd
Gathiuru r
Mt Kenya National Park
Treks and equipment can be arranged here. street kids.
Blue Line Hotel (Map p382; %62420; camping Besides lapping against Mt Kenya’s slopes,
u
(71km) 9
Riv
er Batian Nkubu
11
Park gate (5199m) KSh150, s/d KSh400/800) Similar to its sister hotel Nanyuki also sits on the edge of the mas-
1 7 4
5
Muto
nga Mountain View, though hot showers are sive Laikipia Plateau, which is currently one
Naro Moru Point
6 Kiambuthi Lenana Rive
r only available in the morning. Blue Line is of Africa’s most important wildlife conser-
(4985m) Nith
River Mt Kenya
i
Ri
3km from town and 1.5km from the Mt vation sites. Here local communities and
ve
Solio GR ro
bi Forest r
2 Chogoria
Kenya Guides & Porters Safari Club office ranches are being encouraged to share their
A2 ai
N
15
(convenient for organising guides), but space with local fauna, allowing wildlife to
3 13km short of the park gate. The hotel is flourish while at the same time decreasing
Mweiga
SLEEPING
Blue Line Hotel ............................1 A2
Mountain Rock Lodge.................9
Nanyuki River Camel
A2 generally pleasant and quiet, and has a bar potential human-animal conflict.
Chogoria Forest Station...............2 D3 Camp................................... 10 A2 and restaurant (meals KSh180 to KSh280).
Information
Nya
Ken Trout Guest Cottages............3 B2 Naro Moru River Lodge.............11 A2 Chuka
Kam
B5
Meru Mt Kenya Lodge.................4 C2 Ol Pejeta House ........................12 A2
Mt Kenya Guides & Porters Safari Club (Map
min
wet
Met Station Hut...........................5 B3 Sweetwaters Tented Camp........13 A2
B6
p382; %62015; camping KSh150) You may also Barclays Bank (Map p384; Kenyatta Ave)
di
i
Nyeri Kiganjo
Mt Kenya Chogoria Guides & Timau River Lodge......................14 B1
Porters Association.............(see 15) Transit Motel............................. 15 D3
Ru
gu
camp here. The club can provide tents (two- Kenya Commercial Bank (Map p384; Kenyatta Ave)
Mt Kenya Guides & Porters ti
Rive person tent KSh600). The site is rather Mt Kenya Cyberworld (Map p384; Kenyatta Ave; per
River
Safari Club.............................. 6 A3 EATING r
Mt Kenya Hostel & Campsite.......7 B2 Cape Chestnut ..........................16 B2 primitive and the loos are rather grim – hr KSh60)
Trail
Mt Kenya Safari Club...................8 B2 Horse's Mouth Pub....................17 B2 showers come in buckets. Post office (Map p384; Kenyatta Ave)
4 Mukurwe-ini Standard Chartered Bank (Map p384; Kenyatta Ave)
Kerugoya
Sa
Kianyaga
Karatina
ga
MIDRANGE & TOP END
na
Embu
A2 Naro Moru River Lodge (Map p382; %62212, Nairobi Sleeping
Ri
ve
r
To Nairobi
(109km)
Kutus B7 %020-4443357; [email protected]; camping BUDGET
US$10, dm US$8, low season half board s/tw from US$55/82, Nanyuki River Camel Camp (Map p382; %0722-
high season from US$90/120; s) This relaxing lodge 361642; [email protected]; camping US$6, half-board
Eating NARO MORU is about 1.5km north of town and is set on huts with shared bathroom US$22) The only camping
The best range of food suitable for con- %062 the sloping bank of the Naro Moru River in near Nanyuki is at this fabulous place off
sumption on the mountain is to be found The village of Naro Moru, on the western beautifully landscaped gardens. There’s also C76 Hwy 4km out of town. Firewood is free
in Nairobi’s supermarkets, especially Naku- side of the mountain, is little more than a a well-equipped camp site and a dormitory and there are decent facilities. The woven
matt and Uchumi. Elsewhere there’s a good dusty string of shops and houses, with a block. Campers can use all the hotel facili- huts are modelled on a traditional Somali
range in the towns around the mountain, couple of very basic hotels and a market, ties, which include two bars and a restaurant nomadic village and are highly authentic –
but you’ll find precious little at Naro Moru but it’s the most popular starting point for (breakfast/dinner KSh500/KSh1000). spending the night in one is an experience
or Chogoria. treks up Mt Kenya. There’s a post office with Mountain Rock Lodge (Map p382; %62625; info@ indeed. The food is excellent, and the 200
When you’re buying dehydrated foods, Internet access, but no banks. mountainrockkenya.com; camping US$5, standard s/tw camels are available for hire.
get the precooked variety to cut down on US$24/32, superior s/tw or tr US$32/48) This place is Ibis Hotel (Map p384;%31536; Lumumba Rd; s/
cooking time – two-minute noodles are a Sleeping & Eating 6km north of Naro Moru, tucked away in tw KSh500/900) Bright rooms and a brighter
good solution. It’s a smart idea to bring Although there are a number of basic ho- the woods less than 1km from the Nanyuki covered courtyard lurk behind the Ibis’s
these from home. tels situated in Naro Moru town, the best road. You can save a few dollars by renting a fresh tiles and woodwork. Angle for a room
To avoid severe headaches caused by de- options are to stay in the surrounding few fixed tent (single/twin/triple US$15/20/24) with a Mt Kenya view.
hydration or altitude sickness, drink at least kilometres. Eating options are incredibly or using the camp site. It is friendly and Mt Kenya Paradise Hotel (Map p384; %0722-
3L of fluid per day and bring rehydration slim, with only a very few hotels offering reliable, with a spacious dining room, two 899950; s/tw KSh400/600) Formerly the Nanyuki
sachets. meals. bars and a lounge. Riverside Hotel, this place off Kenyatta Ave
384 C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • N a n y u k i www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • A r o u n d N a n y u k i 385
Nanyuki
NANYUKI 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
lection of camel products (including camel offering a range of activities. Timau River Lodge
biltong – jerky). (Map p382; %062-41230; [email protected];
A B C D
ὈὈ
Marina Grill & Restaurant (Map p384; Kenyatta Ave; camping KSh300, cottages incl breakfast per person
To Nanyuki River Camel Camp (3.5km);
El Karama Ranch (42km); meals KSh90-350) Sit on the rooftop and delve KSh1400) is a wonderfully offbeat place, con-
Sim
To Timau River Lodge (24km);
Nyahururu (95km) Ken Trout Guest Cottages (26km); into a burger or steak. The pizza is tasty but sisting of several lovely thatched cottages
ba
Meru (78km); Isiolo (81km)
Rd
1 very small. and a well-equipped camp site off the A2
15 Catholic
Church
Cape Chestnut (Map p382; off Kenyatta Ave; hMon- Hwy. Three kilometres south of town, off
A2
C76
Sat) This is an excellent coffee garden and the A2 Hwy, Ken Trout Guest Cottages (Map p382;
snack place catering mostly for white farm- %0720-804751; camping KSh300, half-board cottages per
ὈὈ
ers, expats and tourists. It’s off Kenyatta person KSh2500) is a more mainstream estab-
Na
Main Rd
Ave, 1km south of town. lishment, with an excellent restaurant and
ny
Market ya
Ken
uk
Mt
some very good fishing. Any matatu run-
i
Horse’s Mouth Pub (Map p382; Haile Selassie Rd;
d
Laik 9
yR
16 ipia
imm
Rd
ly J meals KSh150-400) This place near Cape Chest- ning between Nanyuki and Isiolo or Meru
nut caters for a similar clientele. will drop you in Timau or at the turn-off to
K E N YA
K E N YA
Market
Wil
d
2 Park
kR
7 10
Hindu 2 14 Mountain Rock Café (Map p384; Kenyatta Ave; meals either sleeping option.
Par
Temple 6
River
Lum
um
ba
KSh60-200) Popular with locals, this is a good About 42km to the northwest of Nany-
8 To Mt Kenya
INFORMATION
Barclays Bank...............................1 C3
Rd
Safari Club (10km) spot for cheap Kenyan fare. uki, El Karama Ranch (%062-32526, Nairobi %020-
5
Kenya Commercial Bank..............2 C2 3 340331; [email protected]; bandas per person KSh2500)
Montana Trek & Information
Centre......................................3 B2
11
EATING Drinking & Entertainment is on the Ewaso Ngiro River. Although still
e
Camcorner.................................11 C2 Cape Chestnut and the Horse’s Mouth Pub a working ranch, wildlife conservation is
Av
Mt Kenya Cyberworld..............(see 13)
Mt Kenya Mountaineering Marina Grill & Restaurant...........12 C3
Information Office................(see 9) Mari Mountain Rock Café..................13 B3 are pleasant places to enjoy a daylight beer, paramount and the 5668-hectares play
akan
Post office....................................4 B3 i Rd while in the evening the rooftop of Marina home to rare northern species, like Grevy’s
t Rd
Standard Chartered Bank.............5 C2 1 ENTERTAINMENT
ta
4
Grill & Restaurant is a good choice. zebras and reticulated giraffes. Billed as a
rke
yat
Sag Buccaneer Club..........................14 D2
ana 13
Ma
3
Ken
SLEEPING Rd 12
SHOPPING
Buccaneer Club (Map p384; Laikipia Rd; hWed & Sat ‘self-service camp’, accommodation is in
Equator Chalet.............................6 C2
Ibis Hotel......................................7 B2
Kim
ath
i Rd
To Cape Chestnut (1.6km); Nanyuki Spinners & Weavers......15 A1 evenings) May look like a UFO, but its disco is basic but comfortable riverside bandas. Ac-
Horse's Mouth Pub (2km);
Joskaki Hotel................................8
Mt Kenya Paradise Hotel..............9
C2
C2 A2 Equator (3km); Airstrip (9km);
TRANSPORT
nothing out of this world. tivities include wildlife walks, horse riding
Ol Pejeta Conservancy (15km);
Sportsman's Arms Hotel............ 10 D2 Naro Moru (24km); Nyeri (60km); Bus & Matatu Stand...................16 B2 and camel safaris (see www.horsebackin
Nairobi (215km)
Shopping kenya.com). Let’s Go Travel (p284) in Nai-
There are a number of souvenir stalls and robi provides a map with directions. During
on the Nanyuki River is a little dog-eared but dezvous, and is still popular with tourists shops around town. the rainy seasons you’ll need a 4WD to get
has large clean rooms and is a good place to and soldiers. The complex boasts a sauna, Nanyuki Spinners & Weavers (Map p384; Laikipia Rd) here; however, as driving around the ranch
meet other travellers. Relax on the terrace to gym, Jacuzzi, tennis, squash, a restaurant For something less tacky. This is a women’s is discouraged and there’s little public trans-
the sound of birds and gurgling water, but and three bars (with table football). craft cooperative that specialises in woven port, it’s usually better to phone and arrange
avoid weekends (the disco is loud). Mt Kenya Safari Club (Map p382; % 30000, woollen goods. The product and pattern de- to be picked up from Nanyuki.
Joskaki Hotel (Map p384; %31473; Lumumba Rd; Nairobi % 020-216940; www.fairmont.com; full board sign is high quality and cheaper than the
s/tw/d KSh300/400/450) This is the best of the s/d US$270/390, 4-person cottages US$995; is ) same work in Nairobi. Ol Pejeta Conservancy
budget establishments. If you wander, you Originally the homestead of a white set- Formerly called the Sweetwaters Game Re-
may hit the Joskaki jackpot: a room with tler family, this club was founded in the Getting There & Away serve, this impressive 97-sq-km (soon to
some sun and a toilet seat! 1950s by a group including the late actor There are daily flights from Wilson Airport be 300-sq-km) wildlife conservancy (Map p382;
William Holden. Already one of the flashi- in Nairobi to Nanyuki with Airkenya (%020- adult/child US$25/13) is home to a wide variety
MIDRANGE est top-class resorts in Kenya, it’s recently 605745; www.airkenya.com) and Safarilink (%020- of plains wildlife, including the Big Five,
Equator Chalet (Map p384; %31480; Kenyatta Ave; been bought by Fairmont, which has big 600777; www.safarilink.co.ke). A return trip on massive eland antelopes and a plethora of
s/tw/d incl breakfast KSh800/1200/1450) This newish posh plans. If golf, tennis, croquet, snooker, Airkenya/Safarilink is US$130/149, while birdlife. There’s also an important chimpan-
place in the centre of town gives substan- fishing, bowls, an art gallery and a private one-way fares for northbound and south- zee sanctuary (h9-10.30am & 3-4.30pm), operated
tial comfort bang for minimal buck. Rooms wildlife sanctuary with a herd of rare bongo bound flights are US$60/70 and US$80/90 by the Jane Goodall Institute.
surround a breezy internal courtyard that antelopes tickle your fancy, sign right up respectively. There are two top-end accommodation
opens onto two balcony areas and a roof (though most cost extra). There are daily buses and matatus to options in the reserve, both recently pur-
terrace. Nyeri (KSh100, one hour), Isiolo (KSh150, chased by Serena Hotels. Sweetwaters Tented
Eating 1½ hours), Meru (KSh120, 1½ hours) and Camp (Map p382; %062-32409, Nairobi %020-2710511;
TOP END You’ll find that Nanyuki’s best restaurants Nairobi (KSh350, three hours). [email protected]; low season full board s/d
Sportsman’s Arms Hotel (Map p384; %32348; www are attached to the hotels, though there are US$90/180, high season US$235/310) is a collection
.sportsmansarms.com; s/d/tw incl breakfast KSh3000/4000/ some independent options. AROUND NANYUKI of 30 luxury tents straddling the equator,
4600, 4-person cottages KSh7000; s) Set in land- Camcorner (Map p384; Kenyatta Ave; meals KSh60-260) The tiny town of Timau is a convenient stop while Ol Pejeta House (Map p382; %062-32400,
scaped gardens off Laikipia Rd east of town, A delightful oddity serving the usual stews between Isiolo and Nanyuki, and has a cou- Nairobi %020-2710511; [email protected]; low sea-
this was once the white settlers’ main ren- and steaks, as well as fiery curries and a se- ple of interesting accommodation options son full board s/d US$210/270, high season US$270/390)
386 C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • M e r u www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • M e r u N a t i o n a l Pa r k 387
was once home to Lord Delamere and now- Information
bankrupt international arms dealer Adnan Café Candy (opposite) has Internet access MIRAA – MAKING MANY PLANS
Kashoggi. for KSh180 per hour. The small twigs and leaves you’ll see people chewing around Mt Kenya are miraa, also known as
The reserve can be visited independ- Barclays Bank (Tom Mboya St) khat, the product of an evergreen tree native to East and southern Africa, Afghanistan and Yemen.
ently if you have your own vehicle. Access Kenya Commercial Bank (Njiru Ncheke St) Chewing miraa is an increasingly popular pastime in Kenya, but it’s not nearly as important as
is off the A2 Hwy south out of Nanyuki. Meru County Council (Kenyatta Hwy) Bookings for in Somalia, where the drug is ingrained in the culture.
Mt Kenya Safari Club runs half-day wildlife Meru Mt Kenya Lodge on the Chogoria route. Some of the best miraa in the world is grown around Meru and it’s a whopping US$250-
drives here for US$55 per person (mini- Post office (Kenyatta Hwy) million export industry. Of course much of the demand is from Somalia, and since miraa’s potency
mum two passengers); guests staying two Standard Chartered Bank (Moi Ave) is diminished 48 hours after picking, massively overladen pick-ups race nightly to Wilson Airport
or more nights at the club are entitled to in Nairobi for the morning flight to Mogadishu.
free entry to the conservancy and lunch at Sights Miraa is a mild stimulant, usually chewed in company to encourage confidence, contentment
Sweetwaters Tented Camp. The small Meru National Museum (%20482; adult/ and a flow of ideas. Locals selling the stuff are often heard saying ‘when you chew miraa you’ll
child KSh200/100; h9.30am-6pm, 1-6pm public holidays) make many plans…’ Make plans is right, though getting around to doing anything about them
MERU off Kenyatta Hwy is worth visiting. The
K E N YA
is another thing entirely! The active ingredient, cathinone, is closely related to amphetamine, and
K E N YA
%064 usual displays are present, with an explana- the euphoric effects can last for up to 24 hours depending on how much is chewed.
Stretched out along the eastern side of the tion of evolution, and copious stuffed and Chewing too much can be habit-forming and has serious consequences, known medically as
Mt Kenya ring road, Meru is more of a travel mounted wildlife, but there’s also a small, ‘khat syndrome’. Aggressive behaviour, nightmares and hallucinations are common mental side
hub than a base for Mt Kenya or Meru Na- informative section concerning the cloth- effects, while reduced appetite, constipation and brown teeth are common physical consequences.
tional Park. If you end up having to spend ing, weapons, and agricultural and initiation Even less pleasant are claims that miraa can cause spermatorrhoea (abnormal leakage of sperm –
the night here or just stop to stock up on vari- practices (including clitoridectomies) of the just delightful), leading to infertility.
ous commodities, it’s worth a look around. Meru people. Miraa is illegal in the USA, but is legally imported into several European countries. In Kenya
As it’s a regional service centre and not it’s sold in handfuls known as kilos or gizas for KSh100 to KSh300, depending on size. Meru is a
a tourist destination, you’ll rarely be has- Sleeping good place for curious travellers to give it a go, but the taste is unlikely to prove enticing. The
sled on the streets, despite them being alive Goodnight Lodge (%30057; Mosque Hill Rd; s incl break- texture is rather unpleasant, too – funnily enough, it’s just like chewing twigs.
with activity. The colourful main market is fast KSh350) Probably the best budget option.
worth a stroll and if you ever thought of Rooms and bathrooms (hot-water showers
chewing miraa (see opposite), Meru is the but no toilet seats) are clean and the upstairs tinctly ramshackle charm to it, with nice Angie’s Café (Kenyatta Hwy; meals KSh50-150) Se-
epicentre of Kenyan production. options take in some sun. quiet grounds and a colonial-style bar/ dated goldfish patrol the aquarium and watch
It’s quite a climb up to Meru from either Brown Rock Hotel (%20247; Njiru Ncheke St; s/tw restaurant and lounge. Most cottages are over some simple menus. Locals recommend
Isiolo or Embu, and in the rainy season KSh350/450) Although the brown and white uninspiring concrete blocks, but TV, phone the biryani.
you’ll find yourself lost in the clouds. How- floor tiles are failing one by one, this is still and a dining area go some way towards
ever, when the weather is clear there are your best bet for cheap twin-bed rooms. Hot compensating. More memorable stays are to Getting There & Away
superb views for miles over the surround- water is sketchy at times. be had in the 1934-vintage wooden cabins. There are 13 daily departures from 6.45am
ing lowlands, and you may catch glimpses Pig & Whistle (%31411; s/tw incl breakfast KSh1000/ Meru County Hotel (%20432; Kenyatta Hwy; s/tw onwards with Kensilver (Mosque Hill Rd) to Embu
of Mt Kenya. 1200) This place off Kenyatta Hwy has a dis- incl breakfast from KSh1000/1500) This is the other (KSh250, two hours), Thika (KSh280, 3½
midrange contender in town, with less style hours) and Nairobi (KSh300, 4½ hours).
MERU 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
but a few more creature comforts. The ‘stu- Mombasa Raha (Mosque Hill Rd) has a daily 5pm
dio’ suites, with balconies and TV, are well service to Mombasa (KSh900, 10 hours).
A To Isiolo (56km); B C D
Nanyuki (78km) C91 worth the extra KSh100. Regular matatus serve the same destina-
Angaine
Rd To Maua (50km);
INFORMATION Meru County Hotel......................9 A2 Meru Safari Hotel (%31500; Kenyatta Hwy; s/tw tions for similar costs and leave from the
Barclays Bank...............................1 C2 Meru Safari Hotel.......................10 B2
Meru National KSh600/800) Considering hot water comes from main stand, near the main market, and from
wy
Park (75km) Kenya Commercial Bank...............2 B2 Pig & Whistle.............................11 B2
the kitchen in buckets, this place is over- opposite the Shell petrol station. Matatus
aH
1 Meru County Council..................3 A2
att
Post Office...................................4 A2 EATING
priced. The terrace bar is its greatest asset. also serve Nanyuki (KSh120, 1½ hours) and
ny
Standard Chartered Angie's Café...............................12 B2
Ke
Bank....................................... 5 B2 Café Candy................................13 B2 Isiolo (KSh120, 1½ hours).
Royal Hotel................................14 B2
B6
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Eating & Drinking
4
Meru National Museum...............6 A2 TRANSPORT
Kensilver & Mombasa Raha
The Pig & Whistle and Meru County Hotel MERU NATIONAL PARK
9 SLEEPING Buses......................................15 B2 have the best bar-restaurants in town. This park (%062-21320; adult/child US$27/10) is the
3
12 10 Brown Rock Hotel........................7 B2 Matatu Stand.............................16 C2 Royal Hotel (Tom Mboya St; meals KSh80-150) Deep cornerstone of the Meru Conservation Area,
14 Goodnight Lodge.........................8 C2 Matatu Stand.............................17 B2
6 13
pots ensure it still has food late in the evenings a 4000-sq-km expanse that also includes the
Independence
Monument
Tom Mbo
ya St
1
when most places are coming up empty. The adjacent Kora National Park, and Bisanadi,
2 Njiru Ncheke
St Mosque bar is packed on weekends. Mwingi and North Kitui National Reserves
2 16
To Embu 7 8
Main
Café Candy (Tom Mboya St; meals around KSh50-180) (which are closed), covering the lowland
(154km);
Nairobi 17 5 15
Market A very popular place with locals, this is a plains east of Meru town.
(288km) Moi Ave
11
good place for cheap vegetarian curries, stews KWS has big plans for this park. In the
B6
and fish during the day. 1970s the huge populations of elephants and
Meru
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
388 C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • M e r u N a t i o n a l Pa r k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • C h o g o r i a 389
Meru National Park
MERU NATIONAL PARK 0
0
6 km
4 miles
things more challenging, the limited ele- A one-way ticket from Nairobi to Samburu
phant numbers have led to an increase in with a stopover in Meru is US$190.
A B C D
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
vegetation cover, making it difficult to spot
those species that do exist. However, with a CHOGORIA
little patience you can see elephants, leop- %064
1
Da
ards, lions and cheetahs, along with lesser The only reason to come to this small town
Island
re
ku
ku
kudus, elands, waterbucks, gazelles and on the lower eastern slopes of Mt Kenya is
Murera Education Special
To Maua (16km);
Meru (60km)
Centre Campsite Bisanadi
Plains
ra
oryxes. Buffaloes, reticulated giraffes and to access one of the mountain’s most scenic
Grevy’s zebras are common, while monkeys, climbs – the Chogoria route (p381). Sadly
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ὅὅὅὅ
Murera Gate Bisanadi gate
Kambi Baridi
Special Campsite crocodiles and a plethora of bird species, Chogoria has quite a reputation for hassle,
Rhino
including the palm nut vulture and Marshal with every man and his dog offering to take
ὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅ
Sanctuary
Mulika
Kithanga
Airstrip
3
eagle, can be found in the dense vegetation you up the mountain. On arrival, it’s much
along the watercourses. better to bypass the village altogether, get
ὅ
Special Mururi
Campsite Swamp
yourself sorted at the Transit Motel, then
K E N YA
K E N YA
Kanjoo Leopard
Princess Special Rock
2 Special Campsite Park Swamp Gola 1 Special Campsite
Sleeping head back if you need basic supplies.
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Campsite Headquarters
Kindani Makutano
Special Mughwango 1 Gola 2 Special Campsite Elsa’s Kopje (%020-604053; [email protected]; The well-signposted Transit Motel (Map p382;
Plain
ὅ
Campsite Swamps
Kinna
full board low season s/d US$320/600, high season US$520/ %22096; PO Box 190, Chogoria; camping per tent KSh500,
Mure
Airstrip 920; s) Wake to glorious panoramic views s/tw incl breakfast KSh1000/1600) is as great for ar-
2
ra River
Punguru
Plain Kampi ka Mugwangho
Muguna
Special
and sweet breezes in these gorgeous open- ranging Mt Kenya treks as it is for flaking out
Mamba Mugwangho
Special Airstrip
Plains Rojewero Campsite
Ro fronted thatched cottages that blend seam- when the enjoyable slog is over. The rooms
ὅὅ
Special jew Bisanadi
Campsite Campsite ero National
Reserve
lessly into the upper reaches of Mughwango are clean, and sport hot-water showers,
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Hill. This place is the definition of sensitively mosquito nets and balconies. There’s also
Ri
ὅὅ
ve
r
designed luxury. Hefty prices include three a decent bar and restaurant (meals KSh100
3 wildlife drives (one at night), walking safaris, to KSh300). It is a 1.5km walk from the
Ntoe Hill
(792km) fishing and transfers. signposted turn-off just south of Chogoria.
Ura gate Ura Leopard Rock Lodge (%020-600031; leopardmico@ Don’t believe rival touts claiming the motel
Riv
Tharaka District er wananchi.com; Apr-Jun full board s/d from US$285/440, Jul- has burnt down – it’s a cement structure!
Mar US$340/515; s) With landscaped gardens, Regular buses and matatus ply the road
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
a stilted restaurant on the Murera River heading north to Meru (KSh60, 30 minutes)
and comfortable cottages, this lodge would and south to Embu (KSh150, 1½ hours) and
SLEEPING Kampi ya Teziwa
Special Campsite
shine anywhere else in Kenya, but here it’s Nairobi (KSh280, four hours).
Bwatherongi Bandas & Campsite........1 B2 Bridge
Elsa's Kopje.........................................2 B2 Ta entirely outmatched by Elsa’s Kopje.
na
4 Leopard Rock Lodge...........................3 B2
Mwingi
Riv
er Adamson's
Bwatherongi Bandas & Campsite (adult/child EMBU
National
Reserve
Waterfall Kora
National
US$10/5, bandas per person US$15; s) Perhaps the %068
Park best KWS camp in Kenya, this site has great Surrounded by intensively cultivated hills
To Meru (98km);
Nanyuki (176km)
showers, toilets, barbecue pits, a swimming on the fringes of Mt Kenya’s southeastern
pool and an askari in attendance. There are slopes is Embu, the unlikely capital of the
also four excellent thatched bandas. Eastern Province. Given that this agricul-
rhinos could pull in up to 40,000 visitors a national parks, Meru’s fortunes should soon Special camp sites (adult/child US$15/5, plus set-up tural backwater town barely sits in the prov-
year, but banditry and poaching during the be on the up again. fee KSh5000) There are about a dozen of these ince, our best guess is that it was chosen as
1980s effectively put paid to tourism here, This resurgence is definitely a good thing, seasonal bush camp sites (no facilities) lo- capital because of its agreeable climate.
wiping out the white rhinos and leaving the as the park is a complete contrast to the cated throughout the park. Despite its local significance, there’s not
area almost abandoned until the late 1990s. nearby savanna reserves of Samburu, Buffalo a lot to detain travellers here, and it’s a long
Today substantial foreign investment has Springs and Shaba. Abundant rainfall and Getting There & Away way from the mountain. However, it can
enabled a flurry of rehabilitation projects: numerous permanent watercourses support Simply put, there’s no point reaching the make a good stopover on the way to Thika.
a new rhino sanctuary opened in 2001 and a luxuriant jungle of forest, bush, swamp and park without a vehicle. If you don’t want
now houses 25 rhinos (24 white), a new tall grasses, which, in turn, provide fodder to to join a tour, your cheapest option is to Information
sealed access road is half completed and all a wide variety of herbivores, and shelter to acquire a 4WD (and driver) from a local Barclays Bank (B6 Hwy)
the main park roads have been upgraded. them and their predators. This is one of the in the village of Maua, 31km from the gate. Cyberlink (per hr KSh120) Off Kenyatta Hwy.
Now that security is settled, these im- most geographically diverse parks in Kenya Regular matatus service Maua from Meru Embu Provincial Hospital (Kenyatta Hwy)
provements are starting to pay off and visi- and a favourite with the safari cognoscenti; town (KSh100, one hour). Post office (Kenyatta Hwy)
tor numbers are steadily climbing from the you need to spend a few days here to fully On Wednesday, Friday and Sunday Airkenya
meagre 1000 in 1997 to well over 10,000 in appreciate what the park has to offer. (%020-605745; www.airkenya.com) connects Meru Sleeping
2004. With two luxury lodges and some of While on the rise, wildlife is still not as to Nairobi (one way/return US$150/300) Kenya Scouts Training Centre (%30459; Kenyatta
the best budget options in any of Kenya’s abundant here as in other parks. To make and Samburu (one way/return US$60/120). Hwy; camping KSh100, dm KSh250) This spotless place
390 C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S • • O l D o n y o S a b u k N a t i o n a l Pa r k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N K E N YA • • N a r o k 391
has great facilities and is a bargain. Four- or OL DONYO SABUK NATIONAL PARK Thika Inn (%31590; Kenyatta Hwy; s/tw incl breakfast Swamp National Park are two bastions of
five-bed dorms are only rented to one group This tiny park (adult/child US$15/5) was gazetted KSh650/1200) Just south of town, behind the Cal- pristine wilderness and wildlife amid this
at a time, so if you’re alone you’ll get the in 1967 and covers an area of just 20.7 sq tex petrol station, Thika Inn has reasonable agricultural heartland. With massive Mt
room to yourself for only KSh250. km. The focus of the park is the summit of Ol rooms. While the bedding is fresh and clean, Elgon and the Cherangani Hills rising sky-
Embu Motel (%0722-462277; s/d incl breakfast from Donyo Sabuk (2146m), surrounded by an oasis the bathrooms are slightly grungy. Thank- ward from the highland’s northern reaches,
KSh700/900) Quietly set back off the B6 Hwy, of dense primeval forest that supports a huge fully the rooms are sheltered from their lively unique trekking possibilities are also on
this is another great option. Cleanliness per- variety of birds and numerous primates, in- Vybestar Club restaurant (meals KSh150 to the menu.
vades throughout and the toilets even have cluding black and white colobus and blue KSh350) and disco. Sitting in the long morning shadows of
seats. The motel has a comfy TV room, a monkeys. The Kikuyu call the mountain Blue Post Hotel (%22241; blueposthotel@africa the highlands are Lake Victoria’s captivat-
spartan dining area and a safe spot to park Kilimambongo (buffalo mountain) and buf- online.co.ke; s/d KSh1600/1900; i) Set among lovely ing lowlands, home to the friendly city of
your metal steed. faloes are indisputably the dominant animals gardens and next to the Chania River 2km Kisumu, Ruma National Park, Mfangano
Highway Court Hotel (%20046; Kenyatta Hwy; s/tw here. Below the picnic site and communica- north of town, this pleasant place has very Island and numerous diminutive fishing
from KSh400/800) While the rooms are clean, they tions tower on the summit is a salt lick that comfortable rooms with four-poster canopy villages.
don’t gleam like those at the Embu Motel. It’s attracts regular herds. beds, polished wooden floors and TV. Room The Luo, the third-largest tribe in Kenya,
K E N YA
K E N YA
a comfortable place, with hot-water showers, It’s possible to explore on foot if ac- numbers 101 to 106 offer shady balconies live around Lake Victoria, while the Luyha,
mosquito nets and TVs (only in the large companied by a ranger (per half-/full day and glimpses of Chania Falls. It has a great Gusii and Kalenjin call the cool highlands
twins, KSh1200). The only drawback is noise KSh500/KSh1000). It’s a 9km hike (three or bar and a decent restaurant (meals KSh120 home. With the exception of the Mara’s
from the lively bar and restaurant. four hours) to an amazing 360-degree view to KShh240) serving Western selections. Maasai, who’ve been inundated with tour-
Izaak Walton Inn (%20128; izaakwalton@winnet at the summit. Primos Hotel (Kame Nkrumah; meals KSh50-220) ists, western Kenya is your best opportunity
.co.ke; Kenyatta Hwy; s/d incl breakfast from US$32/50) There’s a pretty camp site (adult/child US$10/5) With comfy seats and views over the street, to truly get to know the locals.
About 1.5km north of town is this well- just before the main gate, with soft grass Primos prepares Kenyan dishes, burgers
known place set in fantastic old colonial and shady trees. Facilities include one long- and basic sandwiches. It also takes a stab at NAROK
grounds. Some standard rooms have a drop toilet, a rusty tap and free firewood. beef stroganoff. %050
cabin feel, with wood-lined walls, while Two hours west of Nairobi, this small, ram-
others are more contemporary. All rooms Getting There & Away Getting There & Away shackle provincial town is Masai Mara’s main
have TV and there’s a great cosy bar. From Thika take a matatu to the village There are plenty of matatus heading to Nai- access point. It is not great for independent
Prime Lodge (%30692; s/tw KSh650/1050) Prices of Ol Donyo Sabuk (KSh70, 50 minutes), robi (KSh70, 45 minutes), Embu (KSh200, travellers, as prices reflect the heavy tourist
have jumped, but quality clearly hasn’t. On from where it’s a 2km walk along a straight two hours) and Nyeri (KSh200, 1¾ hours). traffic, and Narok is rife with transport touts
the upside, it’s clean and most rooms catch dirt road to the gate. You could also take The odd service reaches Naivasha (KSh200, and rip-off merchants – enjoy!
some sun. It’s off the B6 Hwy. a matatu heading to Kitui and hop off at 1½ hours). Kenya Commercial Bank is the town’s
Kilimambongo (KSh50, 45 minutes), which only bank and has an unreliable ATM (Visa
Eating
If you want the full treatment, head for the
restaurant at Izaak Walton Inn.
is 6km from Ol Donyo Sabuk village.
THIKA
WESTERN KENYA only). Cardphones are found at the post of-
fice (with Internet).
Eastern Inn (Mama Ngina St; meals KSh40-150) %067 Imagine western Kenya and you’d be for- Sleeping & Eating
Fronted by a shady awning, this Christian Thika isn’t much more than a busy little given for only thinking of Masai Mara’s Kim’s Dishes Hotel (%22001; s/d/tw KSh500/800/1000)
restaurant serves sandwiches, samosas, fried agricultural service town, and there aren’t beloved savanna and plethora of exciting With secure parking, great bathrooms, 24-
chicken and fish. many of those famous flame trees to be seen. wildlife. After all, the Mara is astounding hour hot water and new mosquito nets,
Kamuketha Hotel (B6 Hwy; meals KSh80-200) It That said, it’s a leafy place and quite pleas- and the only part of this region most travel- Kim’s is Narok’s best-value option. The
says that it fries up the best tilapia in town – ant for a stroll. The only true ‘attractions’ lers ever see. restaurant (meals KSh80 to KSh200) down-
many locals would agree. are Chania Falls and Thika Falls, about 1km For those few who conjured up images stairs serves tasty Kenyan dishes.
to the north of town on the busy Nairobi– of craggy 4000m peaks, thick rainforests Spear Hotel (%22035; s/tw with shared bathroom
Getting There & Away Nyeri road. crawling with birdlife and rare primates, KSh250/500, with private bathroom KSh400/750) The
Regular Kensilver buses to Meru (KSh250, rolling hills draped in aromatic tea plan- rooms are spacious and have mosquito nets,
two hours) and Nairobi (KSh250, three Information tations, and small fishing boats dotting but some mattresses are better than others.
hours) leave from the BP petrol station in Barclays Bank (Kenyatta Hwy) Lake Victoria’s endless horizon, well done! Hot water only flows in the morning. Lo-
town. Mombasa Raha heads for Mombasa Cyber Cafe (Uhuru St; per hr KSh60) You’ve probably already experienced some cals love the restaurant (meals KSh100 to
(KSh700, 10 hours) at 7.30am daily. Post office (Commercial St) of what this amazing region has to offer. KSh200), and you may see traditionally
Numerous matatus serve Chogoria Western Kenya’s highlands climb dressed Maasai gathered to watch Oprah!
(KSh150, 1½ hours), Meru (KSh250, two Sleeping & Eating steeply out of the Rift Valley and sit atop Chambai Hotel (%22591; s KSh650, super s/tw
hours), Thika (KSh200, two hours), Nyeri December Hotel (%22140; Commercial St; s/d KSh600/ the striking Elgeyo and Mau Escarpments. KSh1000/1400) Simple standard rooms, plus
(KSh150, two hours), Nanyuki (KSh220, 2½ 800) The best and brightest of the budget Incredibly verdant, the north is a heavily new ‘super’ rooms with balconies, large TV
hours), Nyahururu (KSh300, three hours), bunch. The large rooms and bathrooms are cultivated patchwork of family farms and and huge bathrooms. The bar and restaur-
Nairobi (KSh250, three hours) and Nakuru well kept. Some rooms see more sun than the south an abode to countless tea planta- ant (meals KSh250, buffets KSh350) are
(KSh400, 4½ hours). others. tions. Kakamega Forest Reserve and Saiwa civilised and worth trying.
392 W E S T E R N K E N YA www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N K E N YA • • M a s a i M a r a N a t i o n a l R e s e r v e 393
Western Kenya
WESTERN KENYA 0
0
50 km
30 miles
Getting There & Away Wherever you enter, make sure you ask
Frequent matatus run between Narok and for a receipt: it is crucial for passage between
To Soroti
ὈὈὈὈ
(45km)
To Lodwar (181km);
Lake Turkana (237km) Marich C46 Nairobi (KSh250, 2½ hours), with other de- the reserve’s Narok and Transmara sections
Sigor partures to Naivasha (KSh200, three hours) and your eventual exit.
B4
Marich Lomut and Kisii (KSh300, three hours). There is
Pass
C
Sights & Activities
Wei-wei Rv
also usually daily transport to Sekenani and
he
A104 A1
ra
Talek gates for around KSh350. WILDLIFE DRIVES & WALKS
ng
Makutano
Mt Elgon Kapenguria Petrol is much cheaper here than in the Whether bouncing over the plains in pur-
an
(Wagagai) Tot
Kabichbich reserve. suit of elusive elephant silhouettes or parked
i H
(4321m)
ὈὈ
C52
Mbale
Mt Elgon Endebess Saiwa Swamp Chesengoch next to a pride of lions and listening to their
ills
NP NP
nt
Kitale To Loruk (70km); MASAI MARA NATIONAL RESERVE bellowed breaths, wildlife drives are the
rpme
Kapcherop Kapsowar
C45 Nakuru (218km)
Backed by the spectacular Esoit Oloololo highlight of a trip to the Mara.
Cherangani
UGANDA (Siria) Escarpment, watered by the Mara All top-end places offer wildlife drives,
Esca
Tu
River and littered with an astonishing which can usually be negotiated into the rate
K E N YA
B2
K E N YA
ge
Kimilili
n
amount of wildlife is this world-renowned while booking. Guided walks and other ac-
Elgeyo
Hills
ὈὈ
Kerio Valley/
Tororo
Turbo Soy Iten
Lake Kamnarok
NR
reserve (adult/child US$30/10). Its 1510 sq km of tivities, such as horse riding and bush dinners,
Malaba
Webuye A104
open rolling grasslands, the northern exten- are typically booked during your stay.
sion of the equally famous Serengeti Plains, If you’ve arrived by matatu, you can or-
A109 Bungoma Eldoret
To C51
Kabarnet are actually the agglomeration of the Narok ganise drives with most lodges, as they’re
Busia
Kampala
(225km) A1 C37
To Marigat
(29km) (managed by Narok County Council) and fairly friendly towards independent travel-
Mumias
Cheploch Transmara National Reserves (managed by lers. Basecamp Masai Mara (p395) is easiest
Kakamega Forest B53 Mara Conservancy). because it is outside the park and only a
B1 Kakamega A104
Butere
Reserve Kapsabet Although concentrations of wildlife are 1.5km walk from Talek. Two-hour drives
typically highest in the swampy area around (day or night) typically cost US$35 per per-
Eldama
Ravine
the reserve’s western edge, superior roads son plus park fees.
Sigulu Siaya draw most visitors to the eastern side. Of Alternatively, walk with a Maasai moran
Island
Usengi the big cats, lions are found in large prides (warrior) outside the park, where there is
everywhere and it is not uncommon to still a large amount of wildlife. This can be
Ὀ ὈὈ
Kisumu
Bondo Londiani
Asembo
Ahero Molo
see them hunting. Cheetahs and leopards a wonderful experience, but be aware that
Winam
Gulf
are less visible but still fairly common. Ele- local Maasai groups may charge you a fee
B1 To Nakuru
Rusinga C19
(54km) phants, buffaloes, zebras and hippos also for crossing their land.
Island
Kendu Sondu Kericho
exist in large numbers.
Mfangano
Island Mbita
Bay
Of the antelopes, the black-striped Thom- BALLOONING
E
Homa
sc
son’s gazelle and larger Grant’s gazelle are If you can afford US$390, balloon safaris
M
Bay a
u
a
rp
Takawiri Oyugis
Island Tabaka
m
en most prevalent, although the numbers of are superb and worlds away from the mini-
Ruma t impalas, topis, Coke’s hartebeests and wilde- bus circuit. Trips can be arranged through
NP Rod
Kopany Kisii
Mirogi
Sotik beests aren’t far behind. Other common top-end lodges. See p435 for more details.
Miranga B3
Rongo
Bomet
animals include Masai giraffes, baboons,
Keroka
LAKE
Karungu
warthogs, jackals, bat-eared foxes and ma- MAASAI VILLAGE
VICTORIA Thimlich Awendo B3 triarchal clans of spotted hyenas. The few The Maasai village between Oloolaimu-
ὈὈ
Ohinga
A1
To Nairobi
(145km) dozen black rhinos are rarely seen. tiek and Sekenani gates welcomes tour-
Muhoro
Migori
Kilkoris Ngorengore The ultimate attraction is undoubtedly ists, though negotiating admission can be
Suna Narok the annual wildebeest migration in July and fraught – prices start as high as US$20 per
Shirati Ewaso
Ngiro August, when millions of these ungainly person! If you’re willing to drop this kind
Isebania Lolgorian
C13
beasts move north from the Serengeti seek- of cash for free rein with the camera, go
Sirari
ing lusher grass before turning south again ahead, but don’t expect a genuine cultural
Masai Mara
NR
around October. While you’re more likely experience.
to see endless columns grazing or trudg-
Lo
Talek
Sleeping
ita
Musoma Bakitabu ing along rather than dramatic TV-style
river fordings, it is nonetheless a staggering
Hi
OLOOLAIMUTIEK & SEKANANI GATES
TANZANIA
ll
experience. While outside the Oloolaimutiek gate, these
s
During the migration there seem to be as camps are within the reserve and sleeping
many minibuses as animals, and many tend here will incur park fees.
to take off, making new tracks wherever Acacia Camp (%020-210024; camping US$5, s/tw with
they feel fit. This shouldn’t be encouraged. shared bathroom US$35/40) Thatched roofs shelter
394 W E S T E R N K E N YA • • M a s a i M a r a N a t i o n a l R e s e r v e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N K E N YA • • M a s a i M a r a N a t i o n a l R e s e r v e 395
Masai Mara National Reserve
Mara Simba Lodge (%020-4343961; enquiries@
To Narok (69km);
To Bakitabu (15km);
Narok (79km)
6 miles
10 km
Nairobi (224km)
THE HARD SELL marasimba.com; low season full board s/d US$100/150, high
A common complaint among travellers, season US$180/250; s) Large log-sided cabins
particularly in the Mara, is that Maasai can house comfortable rooms with plank floors,
be incredibly hard-nosed in business, and balconies and fans; ask for upstairs rooms
F
‘cultural’ visits to villages often become as they boast better views.
15
Siana Plains
C12
Simba Camp (per tent KSh800) Next to Acacia
D301
high-pressure sales ventures the moment
you arrive. Camp, this dishevelled camp site has tin-
Oloolaimutiek
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Plains
shack toilets and no running water. Dog-
0
0
While it would be unfair to generalise, it’s
gate
certainly true that some Maasai, especially eared tents (some with beds, some without)
Headquarters
2
1
Loita
in high-density tourist areas, will treat you are for rent at KSh900. Prices include a far-
Park
Olopilokonya
Sekenani
Mara Lodge
as a cash cow. Favourite techniques include cical security fee.
gate
Sarova
dropping wares in your lap and refusing to
Ololoitikoishi
12
K E N YA
take them back; coming into camp sites to
K E N YA
TALEK GATE
Loisekin
(2080m)
Lemek (55km)
E
Keekorok Airstrip
To C13 &
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
offer dances at non-negotiable rates; and Basecamp Masai Mara (%020-577490; www.base
charging for absolutely everything, from campexplorer.com; low season full board s/d US$90/140,
Aitong
Headquarters
Olngaineti Hill
camping to crossing their land. While this Nov-Mar US$120/190, Jul-Oct US$140/200) Masai Ma-
Warden's
Ol Donyo
(1720m)
E177
er
C12
ra’s only ecolodge is an incredibly friendly
Keekorok
Riv behaviour isn’t limited to Maasai, their
olo
place. Solar panels provide power, organic
b
Ololnga 4 aggressive and unapologetic attitude up-
7
Talek
sets more travellers than day-to-day hassle waste is composted and dirty water is re-
Sand River
elsewhere. used to water the grounds. One of the
Ngorengore (70km)
To Lemek (55km);
E177
gate
14 3
KENYA
If you feel you’re being taken for a ride, superb observation towers has a small ex-
Posee Plains
Talek
gate
hibition space where local conservationists
er
Maasai or otherwise, stand up for yourself.
D
Riv
5
give informal lectures. The 16 individually
Olkiombo Airstrip
But ask yourself, if your people had been
Kebololet Hill
designed permanent tents have thatched
Burrungat
consistently dispossessed for over a century
River
(Roan Hill)
r
Olmisigiyoi
ve
r
Plain
k
Ri
Rive
d
Tale
roofs, beautiful outdoor showers and large
San
and were now subjected to streams of gawp-
ok
Or
verandas with day beds.
National Reserve
ing foreigners with seemingly bottomless
TANZANIA
Olorukoti
i
Ro nka
Masai Mara
Musiara
e
Plain
lar
Aruba Camp & Safaris (%0723-997524; gerdi
gate
pockets, wouldn’t you do the same?
(1654m)
O
Emarti
Loldopai Hill
[email protected]; camping KSh300) Just outside the
Ke ju
E176
10
(1580m)
ὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅ
Musiara
Musiara
Airstrip
Swamp
reserve, on the Talek River’s scenic north
Serengeti NP
closely spaced, spartan semipermanent tents bank, is this up-and-coming option. Joining
Ol
in this quaint camp. They’re slightly cheaper the bare-bones camp site will soon be Masai
Hippo
Kiboko Crossing
Pools
ver
(Wildebeest)
Rhino Ridge
C
Ri
(single/twin US$30/35) without bedding. Mara’s first midrange tented safari camp.
11
13
New Mara
E176
Bridge
There are numerous cooking areas, a bar For less than US$100 per person, you will
Safari Club
Oloololo
To Mpata
Nolmaiman
Riverside Camp..........................14 D3
Simba Camp..............................(see 2)
Airstrip
Kichwa Tembo Camp...................8 C1
Camp.......................................9 C1
Mara Intrepids...........................10 C2
Mara Serena Lodge....................11 C2
Olonana Camp...........................13 C1
Serena
Mara Simba Lodge.....................12 E3
Siana Springs Intrepids................15 F3
gate
(4km)
and a campfire pit, but no restaurant. Bath- get full-board accommodation and wildlife
(1626m)
Limutu
ὅὅ
ὅὅ
ὅὅ
Mara
rooms are clean and hot water flows in the drives.
Olpunyaia
MASAI MARA NATIONAL RESERVE
Swamp
evening. The only downside for campers is Riverside Camp (%0720-218319; camping KSh350,
Triangle
t
the lack of shade. bandas per person KSh2000) Run by Maasai, this
en
E176
Noontenterani
pm
(Salt Lick Area)
Siana Springs Intrepids (%020-4446651; siana@
E176
camp site has good facilities, like running
r
Enkoiguaatet
ca
Eluai
Plain
Es
Governors'
africaonline.co.ke; low season full board s/d US$150/210, water, hot showers and a kitchen area. Trees
Mara
ia)
high season US$260/350; s) This tented camp
r
provide shade for campers, while simple
(Si
To Kilkoris (30km)
LittleRive r
B
offers comfort without luxury intruding on bandas provide shelter for the tentless.
Plain
Plateau
The
olo
Siria
Fig Tree Camp (%020-605328; sales@madahotels
ool
the African bush experience. The best tents
Ol
Kurao
dot the edge of a beautiful clearing (bam- .com; Jan-Jun full board s/d US$80/120, Jul-Dec US$165/220;
Lolgorian
D3
D3
D3
D4
C2
E4
E4
it
boo group) or nestle in the forest (palm s) Vegetate on your tent’s veranda, watch-
Eso
(Anti-Poaching
Maasai Village..............................1
Acacia Camp................................2
Aruba Camp & Safaris................. 3
Basecamp Masai Mara.................4
Fig Tree Camp.............................5
Governors' Camp ........................6
Keekorok Lodge.......................... 7
Ngiro-Are
group); spacing is generous, so privacy is ing the Talek’s waters gently flow by. Cabins
Unit)
a
Mar
guaranteed. with equally basic interiors cost the same
Keekorok Lodge (bookings %020-4447151; low but lack the river views. There’s also a small
E167
Plains
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
season full board s/d US$140/180, high season US$200/250; but scenic pool and a trendy treetop bar.
s) This has always been a great option, Mara Intrepids (%020-4446651; maraintrepids@
Serengeti
A
with bungalows, cabins and cottages to heritagehotels.co.ke; low season full board incl wildlife drives
SLEEPING
choose from. After major renovations were s/d US$245/370, high season US$450/615; s) The 30
To Suna
(43km)
completed in mid-2005, it’s now better than permanent tents offer comfort, four-poster
ever. It has the usual top-end facilities, with canopy beds and stone bathrooms. A lovely
2
3
1
the added attraction of a hippo pool. pool, with diving board, sits riverside.
396 W E S T E R N K E N YA • • L a k e V i c t o r i a www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N K E N YA • • K i s u m u 397
MUSIARA & OLOOLOLO GATES Return flights on Airkenya/Safarilink are Despite the ecological and economic tur- Abacus Cyber Cafe (Al-Imran Plaza, Oginga Odinga Rd;
Mara Serena Lodge (%020-22059; [email protected]; US$191/201. moil, the lives of Kenyans living along the per hr KSh60; h8am-8pm)
low season full board s/d US$80/160, high season US$210/260; You must state which Mara airstrip you shore go on, and a peek into their world is Aga Khan Hospital (%2020005; Otiena Oyoo St;
s) Built to resemble a futuristic Maasai vil- require, and be early when leaving as the as fascinating as ever. h24hr) A large hospital with modern facilities and 24-
lage, Serena is the most colourful lodge in aeroplane doesn’t wait for latecomers. hour emergency room.
the reserve. Hip rooms, with vibrant curved KISUMU Barclays Bank (Kampala St)
walls and Juliet balconies, line a ridge and MATATU, CAR & FOUR-WHEEL DRIVE %057 Crystal Communications (Mega Plaza, Oginga Odinga
overlook the grassy plains below. Blending Although it’s possible to arrange wildlife Set on the sloping shore of Lake Victoria’s Rd; per hr KSh60; h8am-6pm) Internet access.
beautifully with its surroundings and offer- drives independently, there are few savings Winam Gulf, Kisumu is the third-largest Immigration office (1st fl, Reinsurance Plaza, cnr
ing 1st-class service, it’s justifiably popular. in coming here without transport. That town in Kenya. Declared a city during Oginga Odinga Rd & Jomo Kenyatta Hwy) Visa extensions.
Kichwa Tembo Camp (%020-3740920; alice@cons said, Talek and Sekenani gates are acces- its centenary celebrations in 2001, it still Kenya Commercial Bank (Jomo Kenyatta Hwy)
corp.co.ke; low season full board s/d US$120/240, Mar & Nov– sible from Narok by matatu. From Kisii doesn’t feel like one; its relaxed atmos- Police station (Uhuru Rd)
mid-Dec US$155/310, rest of year US$185/370; s) Just a matatu will get you as far as Kilkoris or phere is a world away from that of Nairobi Post office (Oginga Odinga Rd)
outside the northern boundary, Kichwa has Suna on the main A1 Hwy, but you will and Mombasa. Amazingly, like much of
K E N YA
Sanhedrin Cyber Joint (Swan Centre, Accra St; per hr
K E N YA
permanent tents with grass-mat floors, stone have problems after this. western Kenya, Kisumu receives relatively KSh60; h8am-10pm)
bathrooms and tasteful furnishings. Hop in For those driving, the first 52km west of few travellers. Standard Chartered Bank (Oginga Odinga Rd)
a hammock and take in spectacular savanna Narok on the B3 and C12 are smooth enough, Until 1977 the port here was one of the
views. The food has an excellent reputation. but after the bitumen runs out it gets bumpy. busiest in Kenya, but decline set in with Dangers & Annoyances
Olonana Camp (%020-6950244; kenya@sanctuary The C13, which connects Oloololo gate with the demise of the East African Community While open storm drains and steep curbs are
lodges.com; low season full board per person US$225, Oct– Lolgorian in the west, is very rough, rocky (Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda), and it sat probably your biggest worry when walking
mid-Dec US$340, rest of year US$450; s) Twelve tents and poorly signposted – a highway it’s not. virtually idle for two decades. Although in- around at night, it’s still best not to do it too
with thatched shelters, large decks, wooden Expensive petrol is available at Mara Sa- creasing cooperation between these coun- often, as robberies do occur.
floors and beautiful stone bathrooms call rova, Mara Serena and Keekorok Lodges. tries (now known as Comesa) has established
this camp home. Kisumu as an international shipment point Sights & Activities
Mpata Safari Club (%020-310867; mpata4@africa LAKE VICTORIA for petroleum products, surprisingly the Unlike many local museums, Kisumu Museum
online.co.ke; Mar-May s/d US$240/380, Jun-Feb US$340 Spread across 70,000 sq km and gracing the lake plays no part – raw fuel for process- (Nairobi Rd; admission KSh200; h8am-6pm) is an in-
/480; s) Up the Esoit Oloololo Escarpment, shores of Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda, Lake ing is piped in from Mombasa and the end teresting and often informative place. There
Mpata offers Mara’s grandest views and most Victoria is East Africa’s most important products are shipped out by truck. With is a very good collection of traditional every-
luxurious accommodations. With brave geographical feature. Amazingly, despite its Kisumu’s fortunes again rising, it is hoped day items, including agricultural imple-
contemporary styling, spiralling roofs, cir- massive girth, the lake is never more than Lake Victoria will once more start contribut- ments, bird and insect traps, food utensils,
cular skylights, glass walls and quirky fur- 80m deep, compared to 1500m in smaller ing to the local economy. clothing, furniture, weapons and musical
niture, you will be talking about more than Rift Valley lakes. If you’ve arrived from the higher country instruments. There is also a fairly motley
just animals. The lake’s ‘evolving’ ecosystem has proved east, you will immediately notice the hu- array of stuffed birds and animals, including
Governors’ Camp (%020-2734000; www.governors to be both a boon and a bane for those living midity. Kisumu is a few degrees hotter than an amazing airborne lion mauling a wilde-
camp.com; low season full board s/d US$165/330, high season along its shores. For starters, its waters are a the highland cities, and the steamy condi- beest. Outside, a traditional Luo homestead
US$370/550; s) and Little Governors’ Camp (low haven for mosquitos and snails, making ma- tions add to the generally languid air. has been constructed.
season full board s/d US$180/360, high season US$405/600; laria and bilharzia too common here. Then On the road to Dunga is the 1-sq-km
s) have tents similar to those at Kichwa, there are Nile perch (introduced 50 years Orientation KWS Impala Sanctuary (adult/child US$5/2; h6am-
and offer great service, pleasing riverside lo- ago to combat mosquitos), which eventually Kisumu is a fairly sprawling town, but every- 6pm). Besides being home to a small impala
cations and activities aplenty. The hefty rates thrived, growing to over 200kg in size and thing you will need is within walking dis- herd, it also provides important grazing
include three wildlife drives. becoming every small fishing boat’s dream. tance. Most shops, banks, cheap hotels and grounds for local hippos. You will find a
Sadly, now it’s only large commercial fishing other facilities can be found around Oginga pleasant nature trail and a not so pleasant
Eating & Drinking vessels thriving. Horrifyingly, the ravenous Odinga Rd, while the train station and ferry animal orphanage.
If you can’t afford to sleep at the lodges, perch have wiped out over 300 species of jetty are short walks from the end of New Covering a large area of swampland, Kis-
drop in for drinks or a meal. Lovely lunches/ smaller tropical fish unique to the lake. Station Rd. umu Bird Sanctuary (h6am-6pm), off A1 Hwy,
dinners will set you back US$15/25, but the Last and not least is the ornamental water Jomo Kenyatta Hwy is the major thorough- 8km southeast of town, is an important
views and ambience are free. hyacinth. First reported in 1986, this ‘exotic’ fare, connecting town with the main market breeding ground for herons, storks, cormo-
A tiny shop, eatery and lively Maasai pond plant had no natural predators here and the noisy bus and matatu station. rants and egrets. The best time to visit is in
market are in Talek village. and quickly reached plague proportions, The most pleasant access to the lake itself April or May. Transport is easy along the
covering 17,230 hectares and confining is at Dunga, a small village about 3km south A1, but you will have a 3km walk from the
Getting There & Away many large ships to port. Millions of dollars of town along Nzola Rd. turn-off. Visitor fees may be implemented in
AIR have been ploughed into solving the prob- the near future.
Daily flights are available with Airkenya lem; the investment seems to be paying off Information Gazetted in 1986, Ndere Island National Park
(%020-605745; www.airkenya.com) and Safarilink and the most recent satellite photos show Pel Travels (p400) is the most helpful travel (adult/child US$15/5) is a very beautiful forested
(%020-600777; www.safarilink.co.ke) to Masai Mara. hyacinth covering just 384 hectares. agent in town. 4.2-sq-km island housing a variety of bird
398 W E S T E R N K E N YA • • K i s u m u www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N K E N YA • • K i s u m u 399
Kisumu
KISUMU 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
Kisumu Beach Resort (%0733-749327; camping TOP END
KSh300, s/tw KSh1250/1500) This scruffy lakeside Imperial Hotel (%2022211; www.imperialkisumu.com;
A B C D ‘resort’ is set across the bay from town. With Jomo Kenyatta Hwy; s/d incl breakfast from US$75/85, ste
INFORMATION SLEEPING Hussein Pan House.....................20 B3
loads of space, wicker loungers, a pool table, US$175; ais) Offering friendly 1st-class
Abacus Cyber Cafe...................... 1 C4 Hotel Palmers............................ 13 D4 Mon Ami....................................21 B4 volleyball, a decent restaurant and well- service, this old dame is Kisumu’s most
Aga Khan Hospital.......................2 C3 Imperial Hotel............................14 C4 Vault Restaurant........................22 B4
1 Barclays Bank...............................3 B3 New East View
stocked bar, it’s easy to see why it’s popular luxurious hotel. Full-length windows afford
Crystal Communications..........(see 21) Hotel..................................... 15 D4 DRINKING with overlanders and campers. To get here, grand views and, if opened, heavenly breezes.
Immigration Office......................4 C4 New Victoria Hotel.....................16 C3 Octopus Bottoms-Up Club.........23 B3
Kenya Commercial Bank..............5 C4 Razbi Guest House.....................17 B3
take a ‘Pipeline’ matatu (KSh20) from the Weekend rates are a bargain, and the Flor-
Police Station...............................6 C4 Western Lodge...........................18 B3 TRANSPORT main station to the airport, from where you ence Restaurant is rated the best in town.
ὈὈ Ὀ
Post Office...................................7 B4 YWCA....................................... 19 D4 Akamba.....................................24 B4
Sanhedrin Cyber Joint..............(see 20) Bus & Matatu Station.................25 D3 can hire a boda-boda (bicycle taxi; KSh10) Nyanza Club (% 2022433; s/tw incl breakfast
Standard Chartered Bank.............8 B3 EATING Easy Coach.................................26 B3 or walk the remaining 1.8km. KSh2500/3000; s) While this blindingly white
Florence Restaurant.................(see 14) Kenya Airways...........................27 B4
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Grill House...............................(see 20) Pel Travels..................................28 B3 YWCA (% 0733-992982; dm KSh300, full board option off Jomo Kenyatta Hwy is slightly
Craft Stalls....................................9 B4 KSh500) Bare-bones bunks in airy rooms for past its prime, its leafy and sporty sur-
Craft Stalls..................................10 B4
bottom dollar here. The shared bathrooms rounds make for an entertaining stay. The
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Kisumu Museum........................11 D4 To Nairobi
2 Main Market..............................12 D3 (381km) look clean, but are rather pungent. It’s off rooms are huge and those upstairs have
Ka
To Hotel Vunduba (50m)
ru
ὈὈὈ ὈὈ
ὈὈ m
Anaawa Ave. lovely shaded balconies with lake views.
e
To Airport (3km);
Rd
Kisumu Beach;
Resort (4.8km);
Rd
To Kibuye Market (2km);
Kimwa Grand (3km); There is a plethora of activities available,
Busia (138km) e
os
qu Kitale (158km);
Eldoret (161km) MIDRANGE but since they’re strictly for members, you
Rd M
Go
te Hotel Palmers (%2024867; Omolo Agar Rd; s/tw KSh1000/ will have to become a temporary member
r
bo St
O
28 Ac
cra St
Mosque
A1
1400) An understated place with a percepti- (per day KSh100).
M
16
ble warmth to its atmosphere. The rooms
ah
ra St 2
de
ia
da
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
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Pa
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20 ga
Hw are on the small side, but they see some
Og
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23 tta
tie
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17
sun, have decent bathrooms and are home If you want an authentic local fish fry, there
Dr
bu
ya
na
n
ya
Lake
aO
18 St Ke
rine
3 di School
Rd
to breezy fans. The hotel also has a com- is no better place than the dozen tin-shack
yo
Victoria o Rd
din
in
Ma
m
o
La Ap Jo bi
St
u
ga
end um
K Hindu 26 G fortable lounge, an outdoor restaurant and restaurants siting on the lake’s shore at the
Rd
Temple Mosque 25
St
8 secure parking. end of Oginga Odinga Rd. Open flames, a
la 12
Kam
pa 3 Clock
Tower
Anaawa
Ave O
m
in
New Victoria Hotel (%2021067; Gor Mahia Rd; s lot of smoke and boisterous locals all add to
o
with shared bathroom KSh600, s/tw/tr with private bathroom the experience. Dive in from 11am to 6pm
Ὀ
Na
22 Jomo
iro
Kenyatta
KSh850/1050/1550) Bright on the outside and and a 1.5kg fish will set you back KSh150.
bi
19
Cr es
Grounds
Rd
Ferry Jetty &
24
Terminal
o n Rd
13 gleaming green on the inside, this hotel has Florence Restaurant (%2022211; Jomo Kenyatta
Stati 14
New 7
some good options. Rooms have fans, mos- Hwy; mains KSh200-450) Housed within the glam
Ban
6 15 To Kisumu Bird
British Council
k
Sanctuary (8km);
Train
Station
21
1
ar
Rd Kisii (120km); quito nets and comfy foam mattresses, while Imperial Hotel, the Florence is renowned as
Achieng
27 Nakuru (198km);
4 Rd Ag
4
5 uru
ol
o Nairobi (355km) a few boast balconies with lake views. Kisumu’s best restaurant. The poached Nile
Uh
St
m
Hotel Vunduba (%2020043; Mosque Rd; s/tw/ste
Bu
perch is lovely, as are the chicken Kiev and
Bo
10 O
te
ny
Kisumu Town Hall &
re
o
To Nyanza Club (1.5km); KSh800/1300/2500) Rooms in this place sur- mutton masala.
Rd
Hotel
Rd
Sunset Hotel (2km);
A1 Law Courts Rd
a
To Impala Sanctuary (2.5km); ol 11
Hippo Point (3km);
Joy Guest House (3km)
9 Dunga (3km); Nz round a sunny courtyard and offer good Kisumu Yacht Club (%2022050; Dunga; meals
Kisumu Yacht Club (2.7km)
value. The singles are small but squeaky KSh200-300) Sitting on the lake’s edge, just
clean, while the twins are more sizable and past the Impala Sanctuary, is this fine choice
species, plus hippos, impalas (introduced) Hotel are among the best places in Kenya for comfy. The suites are perfect for families, with a lovely patio and teak furnishings. The
and spotted crocodile, a lesser-known soapstone carvings. and the courtyard is an ideal spot for weary menu ranges from delicately stuffed fish to
cousin of the larger Nile crocodile. Tsetse vehicles to snooze. Indian selections, such as chicken biryani,
flies can be problematic after the rains. Un- Sleeping New East View Hotel (%0722-556721; Omolo butter chicken and palak paneer. A tem-
fortunately tourism hasn’t taken off here; BUDGET Agar Rd; s/tw KSh1200/1600) Although less atmos- porary membership is necessary to indulge
there is nowhere to stay and chartered Western Lodge (%2023707; Kendu Lane; s or d KSh500) pheric than its neighbour, Hotel Palmers, (KSh200).
boats are your only transport option. Kis- This lodge has a number of smallish singles this hotel’s rooms offer more character. The Grill House (Swan Centre, Accra St; meals KSh100-450;
umu Beach Resort (opposite) charters 20 (or cosy doubles) with mosquito nets and bathrooms are rather aged. hTue-Sun) Wicker and shady umbrellas sit
passenger boats for KSh3000 per hour, with bathroom. There is a nice common balcony Joy Guest House (%0720-272037; Dunga; tw with street-side at this German-owned eatery.
typical return trips taking five hours. with plants, tables and a slice of lake view. shared bathroom KSh800, with private bathroom KSh1000) The menu is a bit of a cultural hotchpotch –
Kisumu’s main market (off Jomo Kenyatta Razbi Guest House (%2025488; Kendu Lane; s/tw Located 3km south of town near Hippo the spring rolls are quite nice.
Hwy) is one of Kenya’s most animated, as with shared bathroom KSh400/500, s with private bathroom Point’s turn-off, this welcoming place has Hussein Pan House (Swan Centre, Accra St; meals
is the huge Kibuye Market (Jomo Kenyatta Hwy), KSh600) A secure place, with small, mosquito- a homey feel. Cooking facilities, solid-rock KSh150-300; h6-11pm) Smoky stoves grace the
which draws people from all around the dis- net-clad rooms, some decidedly brighter sofas (sit slowly or risk a broken arse) and pavement here each evening and pump out
trict each Sunday. Everything from second- than others. The shared toilets pass the nos- cramped rug-clad rooms, with fans and the amazing Asian selections, like chicken tikka
hand clothes to furniture and food can be tril test and there is a private TV lounge/ odd balcony, call Joy’s home. Sadly, prices and mutton pilau. The boneless chicken
found. The various craft stalls near Kisumu restaurant upstairs. don’t include breakfast. mushkati is divine.
400 W E S T E R N K E N YA • • K i s u m u www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N K E N YA • • A r o u n d L a k e V i c t o r i a 401
Mon Ami (Mega Plaza, Oginga Odinga Rd; meals KSh150- hours), Kericho (KSh200, two hours), Kisii AROUND LAKE VICTORIA (KSh150, 1½ hours) and Kisumu (KSh250,
350) A favourite expat pit stop, with Western (KSh200, two hours), Homa Bay (KSh250, Homa Bay three hours).
standards, such as hamburgers, pasta and three hours), Nakuru (KSh300, 3½ hours), %059
pizza. Nairobi (KSh550, 5½ hours) and Isebania This section of lakeshore, blanketed with Ruma National Park
Vault Restaurant (meals KSh300-600) Pizza (with (KSh350, four hours), on the Tanzanian green and dotted with intriguing, conical Bordered by the dramatic Kanyamaa Escarp-
real cheese), pasta and even veal grace this border. volcanic plugs (the plumbing of ancient ment, and home to Kenya’s only population
Italian restaurant’s menu. Housed in a There are very few direct services to Kitale volcanos exposed through erosion) makes of roans (one of Africa’s rarest and larg-
former bank off Oginga Odinga Rd, the (KSh300, four hours); head to Kakamega or for an interesting visit and a handy base for est antelopes), is the surprisingly seldom-
massive vault still lurks in the shadows. Eldoret and change there. nearby attractions. visited Ruma National Park (adult/child US$15/5).
Follow the local crowds and descend into Akamba (off New Station Rd) has its Climb nearby Mt Homa (one hour) for While hot and often wet, it’s beautiful, and
the subdued interior of the brightly coloured own depot in the town’s centre. Besides a panoramic vista, take in the bustling har- comprises 120 sq km of verdant riverine
New Victoria Hotel (p399) for a filling feed four daily buses to Nairobi (KSh500, seven bour or just wander the dusty streets to the woodland and savanna grassland within the
in the morning (meals KSh150 to KSh300). hours) via Nakuru (KSh300, 4½ hours), Caribbean beats radiating from various Lambwe Valley.
there are daily services to Busia (KSh200, dukas. It is also a great place to find tapes Besides roan, other rarities like Bohor’s
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Drinking & Entertainment three hours) and Kampala (KSh750, seven of traditional Luo music. reedbuck, Rothschild’s giraffe, Jackson’s
Kisumu’s nightlife has a reputation for being hours). Easy Coach (off Mosque Rd) serves hartebeest and the tiny oribi antelope can be
even livelier than Nairobi’s, but thanks to similar destinations with some added com- INFORMATION seen. Birdlife is prolific, with 145 different
many of the best parties and live Congolese fort and cost. The Co-operative Bank of Kenya exchanges bird species present, including the mighty
bands cropping up at various venues, such US dollars, while Post Bank offers Western fish eagle and white egret. Tsetse flies can
as the Kimwa Grand (Jomo Kenyatta Hwy), along TRAIN Union. The new Kenya Commercial Bank be a problem after the rains.
the roads out of town, it’s harder to find; After being shut down for years, the train should be open by the time you read this. The park is set up for those with vehicles,
check flyers and ask locals who are plugged service to Nairobi (KSh1415/720 in 1st/2nd The post office has Internet and telephone but contact the warden (%059-22544; PO Box 420,
into the scene. class, 13 hours) is once again on the roll. services. The warden’s office (%22544) for Homa Bay) in Homa Bay and you may be able to
Easy to find and always good for a drink, Trains are scheduled to depart on Sunday, Ruma National Park is found up the hill in organise a hike, though you will have to pay
Mon Ami (above) is a lively bar with a pool Tuesday and Thursday at 6.30pm, though the district commissioner’s compound. a ranger to accompany you (KSh500/1000
table, welcoming expat crowd and satellite they usually leave late. per half-/full day).
TV, which blasts European footy in the SLEEPING & EATING There are two simple camp sites (adult/child
evenings. Getting Around Bay Lodge (%22568; s with shared bathroom KSh250, US$8/5) near the main gate, and the guest-
Octopus Bottoms-Up Club (Ogada St) A short TO/FROM THE AIRPORT s/tw with private bathroom KSh300/450) An aquama- house will soon be rebuilt.
stroll from Oginga Odinga Rd, this popular A taxi is probably the easiest way to get rine sanctuary of simplicity nestled between To get here, head south from Homa Bay
bar has two pool tables, a foosball table, its into town from the airport, and should the bus station and the post office. It is tidy, and turn right onto the Mbita road. About
own disco (admission KSh100) and more cost KSh500. Pipeline matatus (KSh20) quiet, has secure parking, and the staff are 12km west is the main access road and from
Michael Jackson posters than we’re com- pick up and drop off passengers outside lovely and helpful. there it’s another 11km. The park’s roads are
fortable with. Women travelling alone may the airport gate. Little Nile Guest House (%0720-997718; s/tw incl in decent shape, but require a 4WD in the
not find it the most appealing of places. breakfast KSh800/1200) On the hill leading into rainy season.
CAR town, this shiny new option is bright, com-
Getting There & Away Your only option for a hire car is with Pel fortable and houses colourful murals. Rusinga & Mfangano Islands
AIR Travels (%2022780; [email protected]; Oginga Odinga Ruma Tourist Lodge (%0734-590868; s/d KSh600/ Set on the sandy shoreline of Lake Victoria
There are daily morning flights with Kenya Rd), which charges KSh4000 per day, includ- 900) Lurking behind a messy entrance, Ru- and marking Winam Gulf’s entrance is
Airways (%2020081; Alpha House, Oginga Odinga Rd) to ing insurance. Excess is set at KSh35,000. ma’s bungalows offer comfy rooms and Mbita, a lonely village with a palpably warm
Nairobi (KSH7500, one hour), and an extra great bathrooms. Unfortunately the town’s frontier feel. A short causeway connects it
evening flight on Friday and Sunday. Hope- MATATU best bar, with cold beers, decent tunes, to Rusinga Island, which is a great place for
fully the fact that its model Kenya Airways Matatus 7 and 9 (KSh20), which run north pool table and restaurant (meals KSh150 to a day’s wander – the craggy hill makes an
plane has lost its starboard engine won’t along Oginga Odinga Rd before turning KSh230), also lives here, so noise can be attractive viewpoint. On the island’s north
put you off! up Anaawa Ave and continuing east down problematic. It is signposted behind the side is Tom Mboya’s mausoleum. A child of
Jomo Kenyatta Hwy, are handy to reach Total petrol station. Rusinga and former sanitary inspector in
BUS & MATATU the main matatu station, main market and Nairobi, Mboya was one of the few Luos
Most buses, matatus and Peugeots to desti- Kibuye Market – you can just wave an arm GETTING THERE & AWAY ever to achieve any kind of political success
nations within Kenya leave from the large to stop them and hop on anywhere you Akamba’s office is just down the hill from in the government of Kenya, and was widely
bus and matatu station just north of the see one. the bus station. Its buses serve Nairobi tipped to become Kenya’s second president
main market. (KSh550, 8½ hours, 7am and 7.30pm) via before he was assassinated in 1969. He’s still
Matatus offer the only direct services to TAXI Kericho (KSh300, four hours) and Nakuru well remembered today.
both Kakamega (KSh120, one hour) and A taxi around town costs KSh100 to KSh200, (KSh450, six hours). Several other companies Mfangano Island, to the southwest, is also
Eldoret (KSh250, 2½ hours). Plenty of while trips to Dunga or Kisumu Beach Re- and matatus (operating from the bus sta- well worth a day or two, accommodating
other matatus serve Busia (KSh250, two sort range from KSh200 to KSh300. tion) also ply these routes, as well as Mbita monitor lizards, curious locals, intriguing
402 W E S T E R N K E N YA • • W e s t e r n H i g h l a n d s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N K E N YA • • K e r i c h o 403
rock paintings and the imposing but assailable from Mbita. If you don’t want to wait Postbank (Hospital Rd) Western Union services. Jazz Pub (Hospital Rd) A similar crowd (Ken-
Mt Kwitutu (1694m). Thanks to a refreshing for passengers, you will have to fork out Post office (Moi Hwy) yan yuppies) to Blues, this place has a warm
absence of vehicles, only footpaths crisscross KSh4000 for the entire boat. vibe and an odd absence of jazz music.
the island – a guide is invaluable (KSh500 Sleeping & Eating Pub dotCom (Ogemba Rd) Reggae cuts radiate
per day is fair). WESTERN HIGHLANDS Kisii Hotel (%30254; off Moi Hwy; s/tw incl breakfast through this tiny, welcoming bar.
It is about a 1½- to two-hour climb from Benefiting from reliable rainfall and fertile KSh750/950) Double the price, but triple the Satellite Bar (Sansora Rd) Rain doesn’t even
the Sena village jetty to the sublime vista soil, the Western Highlands make up the pleasure. This is a relaxed place with large seem to dampen the late night spirits at this
atop Kwitutu, on the southeastern side of agricultural heartland of Kenya, separating gardens and sizable rooms, each with decent rooftop bar. Thankfully there is a shelter
the island. The rock paintings, both revered Kisumu and Lake Victoria from the rest of bathrooms. The restaurant (meals KSh150 over the pool table.
and feared by locals, are found northwest of the country. The south is cash-crop coun- to KSh300) is deservedly popular. Club Backyard (Hospital Rd) The best nightclub
Kwitutu towards the village of Ukula. try, with vast patchworks of tea plantations Mwalimu Hotel (Moi Hwy; d/ste KSh800/1500) Set in town, this place gets packed Friday and
covering the region around Kisii and Keri- in its own compound opposite the Mobile Saturday nights. It usually hosts well-known
SLEEPING & EATING cho, while further north, near Kitale and El- petrol station at the southeastern end of DJs; look for posters throughout town.
Lake Victoria’s Safari Village (%0721-912120; www doret, insanely dense cultivation takes over. town, this hotel isn’t atmospheric but pro-
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.safarikenya.net; s/d incl breakfast US$35/55) A Lake The settlements here are predominantly vides good value and secure parking. The Getting There & Away
Victoria beachfront haven if there ever was agricultural service towns, with little of in- rooms are bright, average sized and have Matatus line the length of Moi Hwy; look for
one. Lovely traditionally thatched roofs terest unless you need a chainsaw or water mosquito nets. The hotel has a popular bar the destination placards on their roofs. Regu-
tower over comfy beds and impressive bath- barrel. For visitors, the real attractions lie out- and terrace, as well as a restaurant (meals lar departures serve Homa Bay (KSh100, one
rooms in each of the pretty cottages. side these places: the rolling tea fields around KSh80 to KSh230) that serves a mix of Ken- hour), Kisumu (KSh200, two hours), Kericho
Mbuta Campsite (%0722-617953; per tent KSh100) Kericho, the tropical beauty of Kakamega yan, Western and Indian dishes. (KSh180, two hours) and Isebania (KSh150,
Located 2.5km south of Mbita, this grassy Forest, trekking on Mt Elgon, the prolific Sabrina Lodge (s/tw with shared bathroom KSh300/ 1¾ hours) on the Tanzanian border.
camp site is set on a small section of beach birdlife in Saiwa Swamp National Park and 500) Just up from Postbank, Sabrina has clean, Tabaka matatus leave from the Victoria
and is a perfect place to laze away a day or exploring the dramatic Cherangani Hills. concrete Santa specials, with rooms boasting Cafe, while local matatus (and additional
two. Look for the small camping sign en red floors and bright green walls. The toilets Kericho services) leave from the stand at
route to the well-signposted Lake Victoria’s KISII (missing seats) are clean enough, but there the end of Sansora Rd.
Safari Village. %058 is no running water. Hot bucket showers are Akamba (Moi Hwy) has a daily bus to Nairobi
Elk Guest House (s/tw with shared toilet KSh300/400, Whether inspired by nearby soils (some of available in the morning. The beds aren’t (KSh550, eight hours) via Nakuru (KSh290,
tw KSh600) Backing the bus stand in Mbita, the most fertile in Kenya) or by the grow- great, but they do have mosquito nets. 5½ hours) departing at 7.30am; it’s wise to
this place will do perfectly for a night’s kip. ing non Bantu–speaking tribes around them Zonic Hotel (%30298; Hospital Rd; s/d US$25/40, book a day in advance. International bus de-
Besides being clean, it has mosquito nets (Maasai to the south, Luo to the west and ste from US$65; s) Although bizarre, Zonic is partures for Mwanza in Tanzania also leave
and private showers. north, and Kipsigis to the east), the Bantu- home to the town’s most comfortable from here.
Rusinga Island Club (bookings %020-340331; info@ speaking Gusii people of this region are pro- rooms, each large, clean and sporting a bal-
letsgosafari.com; full board incl all activities s/d US$410/700) ducing offspring at one of the world’s fastest cony. There is a rooftop swimming pool and KERICHO
This is an exclusive place on the north- rates. An amazing 50% of the 1.5 million a cavernous restaurant (meals KSh250 to %052
ern side of Rusinga Island. Fishing is the Gusii are below the age of 15! With all those KSh350), which produces some tasty Asian In comparison to Kisii, Kericho is a haven of
dominant activity, but if you’re not a keen new mouths to feed, the rapidly expanding curries and a good beef tenderloin. tranquillity. Its surrounds are blanketed by
worm-dangler there are various water sports town of Kisii is bursting with activity. Blues Restaurant (Hospital Rd; meals KSh150-250) an undulating patchwork of manicured tea
available and the birdlife is prolific. Besides being the region’s transport hub Feeling more like a modern pub, this friendly plantations, each seemingly hemmed in by
Mfangano Island Camp (bookings %020-2734000; and hosting a variety of facilities, this hilly restaurant cooks up some great Chinese distant stands of evergreens. While there is
[email protected]; full board s/d US$370/550; city has little to offer travellers besides stir-fries, complete with fresh ginger. The little to do in Kericho, it’s a pleasant place to
hJun-Mar) The only formal accommodation muddy, rubbish-laden streets, noise and an chicken stew isn’t bad either. wander among the shade cast by leafy trees.
on Mafangano island. Built in traditional entertaining nightlife (its saving grace). Kawanji’s Cafe (Ogemba Rd; meals KSh120-180) There is little doubt why Kericho is the tea
Luo style (albeit with modern amenities), While the fêted Kisii soapstone does Lurking behind a wall of foliage, this pleas- capital of western Kenya: the soil is perfect,
this is primarily a fishing resort. obviously come from this area, it’s not on ant restaurant serves the best Kenyan dishes the climate consistent and afternoon rain
sale here. Quarrying and carving go on in in Kisii. falls almost daily. Luckily these downpours
GETTING THERE & AWAY the village of Tabaka, 23km northwest of are generally too brief to be a nuisance, and
Four daily buses run from Mbita to Kisumu Kisii, where you can usually visit the work- Drinking & Entertainment the atmosphere is cool enough to keep it
(KSh200, five hours) each morning between shops. Since most carvings are sold to deal- To compensate for its other shortcomings, fresh instead of humid.
6am and 11am. Matatus to Homa Bay are far ers and shops in Nairobi at rock-bottom Kisii has plenty of evening venues and some Settlers attribute the town’s name to John
more frequent (KSh100, 1½ hours). The odd prices, they’ll happily accept a fair price of the cheapest beer around (KSh60 for a Kerich, a herbalist and early tea planter who
matatu heads to Rusinga Island and past the from you. large Tusker). lived here at the turn of the 20th century,
mausoleum (KSh50). Blues Restaurant (Hospital Rd) A good spot while locals believe it’s derived from the
Until the ferries get their act together, Information for a beer, with a balcony overlooking the Maasai chief Ole Kericho, killed here by
sporadic 10m canoes are the only transport Barclays Bank (Moi Hwy) market and proper cable TV to catch up on the Gusii during an 18th-century territorial
to Mfangano Island (per person KSh150) Cyber Cafe (Hospital Rd; per hr KSh90) the world outside. battle. Who’s right is anyone’s guess.
404 W E S T E R N K E N YA • • K e r i c h o www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N K E N YA • • K a k a m e g a 405
Kericho
KERICHO 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
the bandas are unreasonably expensive. KAKAMEGA
Enjoy the bar and devour a spicy south %056
A B C D
ὈὈ
Asian meal at the restaurant (meals KSh160 This small but busy town is spread out along
To Kimugu
INFORMATION River Lodge (1km); to KSh300). the A1 Hwy north of Kisumu. There is no
Market Nakuru (107km)
Aga Khan Satellite Laboratory..1
Barclays Bank...........................2
D1
C3 1
Tea Hotel (%30004; [email protected]; Moi real reason to stay here, but if you arrive late
Rd Hwy; camping KSh300, s/d US$60/84, ste US$102-108; s) in the day it can be convenient to sleep over
1 Kenya Commercial Bank..........3 C2 B1
e
14
be
Post Office...............................4 C2 Glorious gardens envelop this grand prop- and stock up with supplies before heading
ram
10
Standard Chartered Bank.........5 C3
Ha
Telecare Centre.......................6 C3
Joh
erty, built in the 1950s by the Brooke Bond to nearby Kakamega Forest Reserve, one of
nK
company. Ask for a room in the stone cot- western Kenya’s star attractions. The region
ὈὈ
eric Police
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES hR
Station 12
d
Gurudwara...............................7 B3
Mo
To
we
tt R
tages – they’ve aged more gracefully than is part of the traditional Bungoma district
d
d
iR the hotel rooms and cost not a penny more. (see the boxed text, below) and home to the
tR
d 8
SLEEPING
Sala
All rooms have TVs, fireplaces and dated Luyha people, who are quite Westernised
La
Mwalimu.................................8 C2 Chai
ac
ha
New Sunshine Hotel.................9 B2 Square Holy
Isa
bathrooms. and unobtrusive as a community.
gec
Uh Trinity
Tea Hotel...............................10 D1 uru
Ten
Rd Church
K E N YA
Ripples Pub & Restaurant (Moi Hwy; meals KSh130-
K E N YA
EATING 11 Law Courts
2 350; hTue-Sun) Despite being part of the Kobil Information
Chai Supermarket...................11 B2
y
i Hw
Ripples Pub & Restaurant.......12 D1
Sunshine Hotel.......................13 B2 13 Ken
petrol station, it’s definitely Kericho’s most Barclays Bank (A1 Hwy)
Mo
4
yat
ta R colourful restaurant. There is a good range Kenya Commercial Bank (Kenyatta Ave)
Rd
d
TRANSPORT 3 of pizza, sandwiches and Indian dishes, like KWS Area Headquarters (%30603; PO Box 88,
ha
Bus & Matatu Stand...............14 C1
gec
Buses.....................................15 C3
9
spicy chicken tikka. Kakamega) Kakamega Forest information.
Ten
Rd
5
Buses to Kisumu, Kisii & Mosque
Sunshine Hotel (Kenyatta Rd; meals KSh60-160) Post office (A1 Hwy)
ple
6
Homa Bay.........................16 C3 Kele
Tem
Caltex Petrol Station............(see 15) njin
Rd 2 Locals pile in to devour fried tilapia (its Telkom Kenya (A1 Hwy) Calling cards and cardphones.
specialty) and other Kenyan selections.
Town Hall
Chai Supermarket (Kenyatta Rd) Perfect for Sights & Activities
3 7
self-caterers to stock up. Perched on a ridge south of town is the Cry-
Ho
Hospital spit
al R
d ing Stone of Ilesi, a local curiosity that has
15
Getting There & Away become a regional emblem. The formation,
To Kisumu (85km);
Kisii (101km) B1 16 While most buses and matatus use the main looking like a solemn head resting on weary
stand in the town’s northwest corner, many shoulders, consists of a large boulder bal-
also pick up passengers on the Moi Hwy anced atop an 8m column of rock. While
Information hikes through tea estates and guided river near the Caltex petrol station. Buses to legend has it that tears never stop flowing
The Tea Hotel has Internet access for walks at Kimugu River Lodge. Nairobi (KSh450, 4½ hours) are frequent, down its length, it was dry during our visit –
KSh1200 per hour. Africa’s largest Gurudwara (Sikh place of as are matatus to Kisumu (KSh150, two perhaps it was just happy to see us! Still,
Aga Khan Satellite Laboratory (Moi Hwy) Malaria worship) is found on Hospital Rd. hours), Kisii (KSh180, two hours), Eldoret stains from years of eerie weeping are evi-
and other blood tests. (KSh250, 3½ hours) and Nakuru (KSh200, dent and it’s worth a look. Maybe it won’t
Barclays Bank (Moi Hwy) Sleeping & Eating two hours). be so happy to see you…
Kenya Commercial Bank (Moi Hwy) New Sunshine Hotel (%30037; Tengecha Rd; s/tw/d
Post office (Moi Hwy) KSh600/900/1000) Boasting faux-wood paint-
Standard Chartered Bank (Moi Hwy) work that’s almost funny enough to be THE KINDEST CUT
Tea Hotel (Moi Hwy; per hr KSh1200) Internet access. charming, this place is worth a look. A The Bungoma/Trans-Nzoia district goes wild in August with the sights and sounds of the Bukusu
bamboo roof and cheesy artificial water- Circumcision Festival, an annual jamboree dedicated to the initiation of young boys into
Sights & Activities fall grace the restaurant (meals KSh80 to manhood.
Organised tea plantation tours are surpris- KSh190), which serves Western snacks, The tradition was apparently passed to the Bukusu by the Sabaot tribe in the 1800s, when
ingly uncommon in Kericho, but if you sandwiches and burgers. a young hunter cut the head off a troublesome serpent to earn the coveted operation (too
ask at Kimugu River Lodge it can usually Mwalimu (%30656; Moi Rd; s/tw KSh400/550) A symbolic to be true?). The evening before the ceremony is devoted to substance abuse and
set something up. The Tea Hotel can do secure place for a night’s kip. The rooms are sex; in the morning the fortunate youngsters are trimmed with a traditional knife in front of
the same, although you will pay through much brighter than the gloomy corridors their entire village.
the nose. and host soft foam mattresses. The bath- Unsurprisingly, this practice has attracted a certain amount of controversy in recent years.
If you’re only interested in seeing the rooms are dark and dreary, but hot water Health concerns are prevalent, as the same knife can be used for up to 10 boys, posing a risk of
fields up close, it’s an easy walk to the near- flows in the morning and evening. AIDS and other infections. The associated debauchery also brings a seasonal rush of underage
est plantation, which sits behind the Tea Kimugu River Lodge (%0733-504942; camping pregnancies and family rifts that seriously affect local communities.
Hotel. Head through the hotel grounds and KSh150; s/d/tr from KSh1000/1500/2000) Set off Moi Education and experience now mean that fewer boys undergo the old method, preferring to
follow the path out the back gate, which Hwy on the scenic bank of the Kimugi take the safe option at local hospitals. However, those wielding the knife are less likely to let go
leads through the tea bushes to the hotel River, which runs behind the Tea Hotel, this of their heritage. To quote a prominent circumciser: ‘Every year at this time it’s like a fever grips
workers’ huts. If you’re lucky, there may be lodge is a good option for campers (if you me, and I can’t rest until I’ve cut a boy’. It seems that in Bukusuland some traditions die hard.
picking in progress. You can also arrange can handle cold showers). Unfortunately,
406 W E S T E R N K E N YA • • K a k a m e g a F o re s t R e s e r v e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N K E N YA • • E l d o re t 407
Kakamega Forest Reserve
Sleeping & Eating KAKAMEGA FOREST Khayega and Shinyalu. Intervillage wrestling directly out over the forest. You will need
Bendera Hotel (Sudi Rd; d KSh350) Consistently the RESERVE 0
0
6 km
4 miles
also used to be common, but was eventually your own sleeping bag, food and preferably
ὈὈ
best budget hotel in town. It was closed for banned, as the prize (the victor’s pick of the something to cook on. You can get basic
renovations during our visit, so it should be A B young women present) tended to provoke supplies from the dukas about 2km back
better than ever when you arrive. INFORMATION more fights than the match itself. towards Shinyalu.
KWS Office..............................1 B2
Golf Hotel (%30150; Khasakhala Rd; s/d incl break- 1 Rondo Retreat (%30268; [email protected];
fast US$60/75; s) While the large rooms, each SLEEPING Sights & Activities full board s/tw KSh9000/11,600) Originally built
Forest Rest House....................2 B3
with a balcony and garden view (some even The best way to appreciate the forest is to as a sawmiller’s residence in the 1920s,
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
KEEP Bandas............................3 B3 To Kisere Forest;
glimpse Mt Elgon), are bright and pleasant, Rondo Retreat..........................4 B3 Reserve (6km); walk, and trails radiate from Buyangu and this charming choice is about 3km east of
ὈὈ
Savona Isle Resort....................5 A2 Kitale (91km)
this hotel is seriously overpriced. On a posi- Udo's Bandas & Campsite........6 B2 Isecheno areas. It is possible to drive, but the Isecheno. Seven cottages, each with striking
tive note, readers rave about the swimming roads are pretty tough going, and the engine traditional fittings and large verandas, sit in
Bu
Isiukhu
sa m
pool and fish dishes in the restaurant (meals buli Falls noise will scare off any wildlife nearby as gorgeous gardens through which plenty of
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
River 1
KSh180 to KSh350). well as annoying everyone else present. wildlife passes. The main house oozes atmos-
Official guides (per person for short/long walk phere (ask for Bob & Betty’s room), though
K E N YA
Snack Stop Cafe (Cannon Awori Rd; meals KSh65-130)
K E N YA
A1 Buyangu Hill 6
Lookout Kakamega Forest
The restaurant of choice for most locals, of- 2 National Reserve KSh200/600), trained by the Kakamega Bio- some of its rooms share a bathroom.
fering simple Kenyan standards, including Rv Buyangu Hill Isiukhu diversity Conservation and Tour Opera- Savona Isle Resort (%31095; d/tw/tr KSh1500/
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
khu Trail
ugali wimbi (sorghum porridge, reputed to Isiu
5 u sida tors Association, are well worth the money. 1500/5000; s) This resort is too far from the
Lu g
slow ageing). Kakamega Ri
Not only do they prevent you from getting forest to make a walking base, but is a
ve
Crying Stone 3 2
r lost (many of the trail signs are missing), fine option if you have a car. Rooms are
Getting There & Around of Ilesi
Isecheno but most are excellent naturalists who can in slightly aged thatched bandas, each with
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Shinyalu
4
Easy Coach (off Kenyatta Ave) serves Kisumu Rivendell Gardens River recognise birds by call alone and provide a balcony backing onto the bamboo-lined
Khayega Lirhanda wa
(KSh150, one hour), and has early morning uy iver information about numerous animals. river. Meals (KSh200 to KSh400) are avail-
Hill Lookout Ik Yala R
and evening buses to Nairobi (KSh650, 7½ Rangers state that trails vary in length able in the atmospheric restaurant.
3 Kakamega Forest
hours) via Nakuru (KSh450, five hours). A1 Reserve from 1km to 7km, but the enjoyable Isiukhu
To
Nearby, Akamba (off Kenyatta Ave) has one C39 Kapsabet Trail, which connects Isecheno to Isiukhu Getting There & Away
(17km)
evening bus to Nairobi (KSh600, 8pm). To Kisumu
(35km) Kaimosi
Falls, seems much longer. Short walks to Matatus heading north towards Kitale can
Behind the Total petrol station on the C39 Buyangu Hill in the north or Lirhanda Hill in drop you at the access road for the main
Chavakali
town’s northern edge, matatus leave for Kis- the south for sunrise or sunset are highly Buyangu area of the reserve, about 18km
umu (KSh120, one hour), Kitale (KSh190, 2½ recommended. As ever the early morning north of Kakamega town (KSh50). It is a
hours) and Eldoret (KSh180, 2½ hours). the red-tailed monkey, blue monkey, and and late afternoon are the best times to view well signposted 2km walk from there to the
thumbless black and white colobus. birds, but night walks can also be a fantastic park office and Udo’s. Regular matatus link
KAKAMEGA FOREST RESERVE The northern section of the forest around experience. Kakamega with Shinyalu (KSh60), but few
%056 Buyangu is more accessible and comprises continue to Isecheno. Shinyalu is also ac-
This superb small slab of virgin tropical the Kakamega Forest National Reserve (adult/child Sleeping & Eating cessed by rare matatu service from Khay-
rainforest is the only Kenyan vestige of the US$10/5, vehicle KSh300). Maintained by the KWS, Udo’s Bandas & Campsite (%30603; PO Box 879, ega. Odd vehicles ferry between Shinyalu
unique and once mighty Guineo-Congolian this area has a variety of habitats but is gen- Kakamega; camping adult/child US$8/5, bandas per person and Isecheno (KSh30 to KSh60).
forest ecosystem. It is so wild here trees erally very dense, with considerable areas of US$10) Named after Udo Savalli, a well-known The improved roads are still treacherous
actually kill each other – really! Parasitic fig primary forest and regenerating secondary ornithologist, this place is run by KWS. It after rain and you may prefer to walk once
trees grow on top of unsuspecting trees and forest; there is a total ban on grazing, wood is a tidy, well-maintained camp site with you’ve seen the trouble vehicles have. To
actually strangle their hosts to death. Poten- collection and cultivation in this zone. Iso- seven simple thatched bandas; mosquito Shinyalu it’s about 7km from Khayega and
tial victims include the lovely Elgon teak. lated a few kilometres north, but still part of nets are provided, but you will need your 10km from Kakamega. From Shinyalu it is
Less murderous and more exciting is the this reserve, is the small Kisere Forest Reserve. own sleeping bag and other supplies. There 5km to Isecheno.
forest’s array of wildlife. An astounding 330 An excellent guide to the forest is available are long-drop toilets, bucket showers, and a
species of birds, including casqued hornbill, at the KWS office (KSh300) and Rondo Re- communal cooking and dining shelter. ELDORET
Ross’s turaco and great blue turaco, have treat (KSh500). KEEP Bandas ([email protected]; s/tw KSh500/1000) %053
been spotted here. During darkness ham- The southern section, centred around Opened in May 2005 by the Kakamega En- Mmmmm…cheese! While the pull of a fine
merheaded fruit bats and flying squirrels Isecheno, forms the Kakamega Forest Reserve vironmental Education Programme, these Gouda, Gruyère, Stilton, Brie or Cheddar
take to the air. The best viewing months are and is looked after by the Forest Depart- bandas are a more comfortable option than can vary depending on how long you’ve
June, August and October, when many mi- ment. This region supports several commu- the rest house and have more facilities, in- been on your African safari, a stop in Eldoret
grant species arrive. The wildflowers are also nities, and is under considerable pressure cluding a nice dining area. is a must for all cheese lovers.
wonderful in October, supporting around from farming and illegal logging. Forest Rest House (%30603; PO Box 88, Kakamega; Dairy haters and the lactose-intolerant
400 species of butterfly. Tribal practices in the forest persist: mu- camping KSh150, s/tw KSh350/700) Beds are housed will find little else in this large service town
Dancing in the canopy are no less than gumu trees are considered sacred, circumci- in four rudimentary twin rooms, while besides banking facilities and a good night’s
seven different primate species, including sions are sometimes performed in the forest, bare-bones bathrooms (no hot water) are in sleep before venturing into the nearby Kerio
the exceedingly rare De Brazza’s monkey, and bullfights are still held on Sunday in a rickety stilted wooden building that looks Valley and Kamnarok National Reserves.
408 W E S T E R N K E N YA • • E l d o re t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N K E N YA • • E l d o re t 409
Eldoret
Sights ELDORET 0
0
700 m
0.4 miles
EDUCATION FOR ALL! An odd but tasty attraction, the Dorinyo Lessos
After the 2002 elections the new govern- Creameries Cheese Factory (Kenyatta St; h8am-6pm) A B C D
ment managed to create a long-awaited produces over 30 different types of cheese. INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES New Lincoln Hotel .......................14 B4
Barclays Bank ................................1 C3 Dorinyo Lessos Creameries Cheese Sirikwa Hotel................................15 C2
provision guaranteeing free primary edu- You can taste most for free and the aver- Cyber Hawk Internet Café..............2 B4 Factory.......................................9 B4 White Castle Motel......................16 B3
cation for all Kenyans, a move applauded age price is KSh500 per kilogram, with a 1 Eldoret Hospital .............................3
Kenya Commercial Bank.................4
D3
C3 SLEEPING EATING
by parents across the nation. One great- minimum purchase of 250g. The company Post Office.....................................5 A2 Asis Hotel ...................................10 A3 Golden Dragon Restaurant ..........17 B4
grandfather by the name of Kimani Nganga also makes yummy ice cream (KSh23 for Safari Forex Bureau .......................6
Standard Chartered Bank ..............7
C3
C3
Aya Inn .......................................11
Eldoret Wagon Hotel ...................12
C4
C2
Sizzlers Cafe ................................18 B4
Will's Pub & Restaurant................19 B3
Maruge clapped a little louder than most. 100ml). Telkom Kenya ...............................8 C3 Mountain View Hotel ..................13 A2
On the first day of class this cane-wielding DRINKING
Shakers........................................20 C4
knobbly kneed 84-year-old, dressed in Sleeping Will's Pub..................................(see 19)
school uniform – shorts, knee socks and all – BUDGET Train Station
ENTERTAINMENT
(goods only)
was right there with the kids, sitting in the New Lincoln Hotel (%0723-676699; Oloo Rd; s/d KSh600/ Club Opera..................................21 B4
800) The most comfortable of the budget op-
K E N YA
front row (he is hard of hearing, after all).
K E N YA
Stat
ion TRANSPORT
Rd
What ran through the teacher’s mind is tions, this pleasant place has decent rooms 2 To Kitale (69km); Bus & Matatu Stand.....................22 B3
ὈὈ
Uganda (140km) Eldoret Travel Agency ..................23 B4
anyone’s guess! spread around its courtyard. The bathrooms Local Matatus..............................24 C4
and hot-water plumbing are slightly disfig-
o Rd
Mr Maruge was there to start collecting 5 64 S 12 Matatus to Iten & Kabarnet.........25 C3
t
Matatus to Malaba.......................26 B2
Olo
his long-overdue education, and wouldn’t ured but seem to do the job. Postbank 13 26 Warehouses 15 Elge
yo R
A104 d
Mountain View Hotel (%0720-486613; Uganda Rd;
Rd
let anyone say otherwise. Besides basic
rma
maths, he was keen on learning to read. This s/tw KSh450/550) While a little noisy and small, To Iten
Dha
Police 6 Uta (33km)
lii S
these bright clean rooms have mosquito nets, To Akamba Bus
d
would allow him to study the Bible and con- Station t
oit R
Office (200m)
Mo Town Hall
firm his suspicions that his local preacher reasonable bathrooms and balconies, com- i St
Serg
16
Uga
wasn’t actually following it! plete with potted plants. Taking a cell-like Hindu Temple
22 19 nda
Rd Library
Not only does Mr Maruge continue to at- inside-facing single without a balcony only 3 10 1 25
o Rd
Municipal 7
tend classes in the Eldoret area, but he’s also saves 50 bob. Security is distinctly prisonlike
Olo
Market
a St
Church
a St
been made prefect and his teacher is said to (you have to be let out as well as in). It also
yatt
Kim
ding
4
Ken
ath Barng'
rave about his influence over the students. has a respectable terrace bar and restaurant. i Av
e Etuny A104
ga O
Open-Air Fruit
8 Plaza 3
The venerable scholar is also a fast learner Naiberi River Campsite (%2063047; campsite@ & Vegetable Elija
t
la S
Market
Ogin
a
and has some of the top marks in his class. africaonline.co.ke; camping KSh250, dm KSh500, cabins 14 Che
Nya
Postbank ruh
21 ota To Naiberi River
Perhaps he’s being tutored by his grand- KSh1200; i) This place, 22km southeast of 2
17 18 St Campsite (22km);
Nairobi (311km)
Nan
children, who attend the same school. town on the C54 to Kaptagat, is your best di C39
23 11
option for camping, as it has tonnes of facili- Rd
ties, although it is very popular with overland 4
24
President Moi hailed from the area, and companies. Phone for directions. 9
during his presidency the city controver- Aya Inn (Oginga Odinga St; s/tw incl breakfast KSh500/
sially received many beneficial develop- 1000) With clean rooms, large beds (some- To Airport (15km);
Kisumu (161m)
20
ments, such as Moi University and the what saggy), hot-water showers and a court-
international airport. Simultaneous con- yard for vehicles, this place is a reasonable
struction of a munitions factory next to the option. There are some cheaper singles Asis Hotel (%2061807; Kimathi Ave; s/tw incl breakfast Eating
airport also raised many eyebrows – critics (KSh400) with shared bathrooms. KSh750/1250) Alone on the west side of town, Slide onto Sirikwa Hotel’s grand terrace and
wondered what exports were intended. this conference-class place is very clean and sample some sumptuous selections. Local
MIDRANGE comfortable. From some rooms farsighted well-to-do’s rave about the marinated lamb
Information Eldoret Wagon Hotel (%2062270; Oloo Rd; s/d incl guests will enjoy countryside views, while and chicken curry (KSh250 to KSh400).
Barclays Bank (Uganda Rd) breakfast KSh1550/2250) This option has a certain nearsighted guests will glare at the litter Will’s Pub & Restaurant (Uganda Rd; meals KSh200-
Cyber Hawk Internet Café (Nandi Arcade, Nandi Rd; amount of colonial charm. It is overpriced, outside. 450) The burgers and shoestring fries will
per hr KSh60) but retains some suitably eccentric memora- leave you smiling. Thanks to the fried fish
Eldoret Hospital Off Uganda Rd. One of Kenya’s best bilia, and there is a casino to make you feel TOP END and lamb stew also being justifiably popular,
hospitals, with 24-hour emergency service. like a high roller. Sirikwa Hotel (%2063614; hotelsirikwa@multitechweb tables come at a premium.
Kenya Commercial Bank (Kenyatta St) White Castle Motel (%2033095; Uganda Rd; s/d .com; Elgeyo Rd; s/tw incl breakfast KSh4000/5000, ste from Golden Dragon Restaurant (Kenyatta St; meals
Post office (Uganda Rd) KSh850/1550) Lonely beds sit strangely away KSh8500; s) This is Eldoret’s only top-end KSh300-400; hWed-Mon) A tad pricey, but Chi-
Safari Forex Bureau (KVDA Plaza, Oloo Rd) Exchanges from all the walls in these sizable austere hotel and boasts a long list of facilities, in- nese food will give your taste buds some-
cash and travellers cheques (no commission). Western rooms. Some rooms have decent views and cluding a lovely swimming pool and beauti- thing new to sing about.
Union services. all have aged but clean bathrooms. The ex- ful terrace. Hopefully planned renovations Sizzlers Cafe (Kenyatta St; meals KSh100-235) Grab
Standard Chartered Bank (Uganda Rd) pensive special singles are not worth the won’t touch the suites, which scream ’70s a curry and get stuffed for minimal coinage
Telkom Kenya (cnr Kenyatta & Elijaa Cheruhota Sts) money. velvet chic. at this undeniable favourite.
410 W E S T E R N K E N YA • • L a k e K a m n a r o k & K e r i o Va l l e y N a t i o n a l R e s e r ve s www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N K E N YA • • K i t a l e 411
Kitale
Drinking & Entertainment although there are absolutely no facilities. KITALE KITALE 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
Shakers (Oginga Odinga Rd) An atmospheric, albeit Bush camping is possible by the lake and %054
isolated (take a taxi) place just waiting for in- no park fees are currently charged by the Kitale is considerably smaller than its nearest A B
troductions… Arse, meet wicker. Eyes, meet KWS. At present you can walk anywhere on neighbour Eldoret and has more of an agri- INFORMATION
European footy. Beer, meet throat. foot, but it is best to ask rangers and locals if cultural feel, although there are more street Barclays Bank.......................1 A4
Mt Elgon Northwest
Will’s Pub (Uganda Rd) A tame but lively place there have been any recent wild dog attacks kids than in most normal service towns. 1 Ecotourism.......................2 B5
for a cold drink or three. It is a friendly spot in the area. Although it has an interesting museum, Ki- To Endebess (20km);
MultiTech........................(see 12)
Post Office...........................3 B5
for female travellers. It is possible to cross into Kerio Valley Na- tale’s main function for travellers is as a base Mt Elgon (25km)
Standard Chartered Bank.....4 B5
Club Opera (Kenyatta St) Day-Glo paint, black tional Reserve from Kamnarok during the for explorations further afield – Mt Elgon Telkom Kenya......................5 B5
Western Union....................6 B4
lights and occasional live bands grace this dry season, but you will have to wade across and Saiwa Swamp National Parks – and a
raucous nightclub. the river north of the lake. To the south of take-off point for a trip up to the western SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Kitale Museum.....................7 B5
the reserve is the beautiful Cheploch Gorge. side of Lake Turkana. As such, Kitale is a Olaf Palme Agroforestry
Getting There & Away The rest of the Kerio Valley begs to be pleasant enough town and can be an enjoy- Centre.............................8 B5
explored and there is still talk of two other able place to pass through.
K E N YA
K E N YA
AIR SLEEPING
There are daily flights between Eldoret and national reserves being created: one around 2 Alakara Hotel.......................9 B5
Bongo Lodge.....................10 A5
Nairobi (KSh5700, one hour) with the little- Kapkut (2799m), a beautiful mountain Information Sunrise Motel.....................11 B5
known Aero Kenya. Bookings are handled close to Eldama Ravine, and another in the Barclays Bank (Bank St) Vision Gate Hotel...............12 B5
by Eldoret Travel Agency (%2062707; Kenyatta St). Tugen Hills. Mt Elgon Northwest Ecotourism (Menowecto; EATING
To reach Lake Kamnarok, head 25km %30996; Kitale Museum, A1 Hwy) Nonprofit Iroko Roots Cafe................13 A4
Lantern Restaurant..........(see 11)
BUS & MATATU north up the rough dirt track from the vil- organisation providing tourist information.
TRANSPORT
The main bus and matatu stand is in the cen- lage of Cheploch, which sits just east of the MultiTech (Askari Rd; per hr KSh60) Akamba.............................14 A5
ὈὈ
tre of town, by the market. Regular matatus/ Kerio River on the Kabarnet–Iten road. A Post office (Post Office Rd) 16 Main Bus & Matatu Park...15 A3
Matatus to Kapenguria......16 A3
Peugeots serve Kitale (KSh150/200, 1¼ hours), 4WD is required in the dry season – don’t Standard Chartered Bank (Bank St) 15 Matatus to Kisumu &
Kisumu (KSh250/300, 2½ hours), Kericho even think about it during the rains. Telkom Kenya (Post Office Rd) 3 Open-Air Kakamega......................17 A3
Market
(KSh250/300, 3½ hours), Nakuru (KSh200/400, Western Union (Askari Rd) Money transfer services. 17
2¾ hours) and Nairobi (KSh400/700, six CHERANGANI HILLS Nyayo
Covered
hours). Buses duplicate these routes. Northeast of Kitale and forming the west- Sights & Activities Market
Local matatus and more Kericho services ern wall of the spectacular Elgeyo Escarpment The Kitale Museum (%30996; A1 Hwy; adult/child
ὈὈὈὈ
leave from Nandi Rd. Irregular matatus to are the Cherangani Hills. This high plateau KSh200/20; h8am-6pm) was founded on the col-
Iten and Kabarnet leave opposite Paradise has a distinctly pastoral feel, with thatched lection of butterflies, birds and ethnographic
Bar on Uganda Rd. Further west on Uganda huts, patchwork shambas (plots of land) memorabilia left to the nation in 1967 by Train Station
(Goods Only)
Rd, matatus leave for Malaba (KSh300, 2½ and wide rolling meadows cut by babbling the late Lieutenant Colonel Stoneham. The on R
d
4 Elg
hours) on the Uganda border. brooks. You could easily spend weeks ex- more recent ethnographic displays of the Mt
Ken
To Saiwa Swamp (21km);
yat
Akamba (Moi St) buses to Nairobi (KSh500, ploring here and never come across a single Pokot, Akamba, Marakwet and Turkana Sirikwa Safaris (23km);
ὈὈ
ta S
Kapenguria (34km);
10.30am and 9pm) via Nakuru (KSh250) tourist. peoples are a bit more interesting than the Lodwar (284km)
t
13
leave from its depot. There is also a noon You won’t be alone though, as the plateau rows of dead things (although the stuffed Askar A1
1 i Rd
(KSh1000, six hours) and a midnight is home to the interesting Marakwet people cheetah is comical). The outdoor exhibits in- Police 10 k St
6
Ban 4
(KSh1150) service to Kampala. (part of the greater Kalenjin grouping), who clude some traditional tribal homesteads, as Station 12
Pos
Mo
11
migrated here from the north. They settled well as the inevitable snakes, crocodiles and
tO
Town
i Av
ffic
3
Getting Around here because the area was secure, and the tortoises, plus an interesting ‘Hutchinson Hall 14
eR
e
5
ὈὈ
d
A matatu from the airport costs KSh50, and consistent rainfall and streams were ideal for Biogas Unit’. Law 9
Crystal
a taxi will cost KSh1000. Boda-bodas are rare, agriculture. The best thing here is the small nature 5 Courts Medical Kenyat
Clinic ta St
though some linger near the bus stand. There are a couple of great five-day treks, trail that leads through virgin rainforest at
2
namely from Kabichbich to Chesengoch the back of the museum and links with the To Pinewood (300m); 7
A1
LAKE KAMNAROK & KERIO VALLEY and Kapcherop to Sigor. These two treks arboretum of the Olaf Palme Agroforestry Kitale Club (500m);
Eldoret (69km); 8
NATIONAL RESERVES are both detailed in Lonely Planet’s Trekking Centre. The forest is teeming with birdlife, Kisumu (158km)
These two little-visited national reserves lie in East Africa. Sirikwa Safaris (p412) and insects, and the odd colubus monkey.
in the heart of the beautiful Kerio Valley, Marich Pass Field Studies Centre (p430) can Next to the museum along the highway an information centre and an arboretum
sandwiched between the Cherangani Hills and both arrange rewarding day and multiday is the Olaf Palme Agroforestry Centre (A1 Hwy; containing 46 rare species of indigenous
the Tugen Hills, and are divided by the Kerio treks in the region. admission free; h8am-5pm), a Swedish-funded trees; it’s well worth a visit.
River. Prolific birdlife, crocodiles, wonderful Kabichbich is best accessed from Kap- program aimed at educating local people
landscapes and the chance to get totally off enguria on a matatu (KSh100, 1¼ hours), about protection and rehabilitation of the Sleeping
the beaten track are the main attractions. while Kapcherop is accessible from Kitale environment by integrating trees into farm- Alakara Hotel (%31554; Kenyatta St; s with shared bath-
Lake Kamnarok, on the river’s eastern side, with some patience and a matatu change in ing systems. The project includes a small room KSh500, s/tw/d with private bathroom KSh700/1000/
is the most accessible of the two reserves, Cherangani. demonstration farm and agroforestry plot, 1500) This is about the best value in town. The
412 W E S T E R N K E N YA • • S a i w a S w a m p N a t i o n a l Pa r k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N K E N YA • • M t E l g o n N a t i o n a l Pa r k 413
comfortable rooms have phones, the staff are 1¼ hours) and Kakamega (KSh180, two Getting There & Away animals include buffaloes, bushbucks, olive
friendly and prices include breakfast. It has a hours). Less regular services reach Mt Elgon The park is 18km northeast of Kitale; take baboons, giant forest hogs and duikers; De-
good bar, restaurant, TV room and parking National Park (KSh80, one hour), Nakuru a matatu towards Kapenguria (KSh60, 30 fassa waterbucks are also present. The lower
facilities. (KSh350, 3½ hours) and Kisumu (KSh300, minutes) and get out at the signposted turn- forests are the habitat of the black and white
Sunrise Motel (%31841; Kenyatta St; s KSh700-850, four hours). off, from which it is a 5km walk. colobus, and the blue and De Brazza’s mon-
tw KSh900-1000) Rooms have a little more flair Most bus companies have offices around keys (most likely seen near waterways).
than Alakara’s, with hardwood floors, rugs the bus station and serve Eldoret (KSh150, MT ELGON NATIONAL PARK There are more than 240 species of
and splashes of colour. The slightly more ex- one hour), Nakuru (KSh350, 3½ hours) With its deep volcanic crater straddling birds here, including red-fronted parrots,
pensive options are larger and include bright and Nairobi (KSh500, six hours). Akamba’s the Kenya–Uganda border and its forested Ross’s turacos and casqued hornbills. On
balconies. buses leave for Nairobi at 9am (KSh550) and flanks extending well into both countries, the peaks you may even see a lammergeyer
Bongo Lodge (%30972; Moi Ave; s/tw KSh500/600) 9pm (KSh600) from its office on Moi Ave. massive Mt Elgon is a sight indeed. With raptor gliding through the thin air. The Ele-
Good-value rooms surround a bright court- Several buses now run up to Lodwar the dramatic 7km-wide caldera dotted with phant Platform and Endebess Bluff viewpoints
yard and offer hot showers. It is similar to the (KSh700, 8½ hours) each day. several peaks – including the basalt column are good places to survey the scene on the
pricier Alakara, but is a little more aged. of Koitoboss (4187m), Kenya’s second- way up.
K E N YA
K E N YA
Vision Gate Hotel (%0734-894177; Askari Rd; s/d SAIWA SWAMP NATIONAL PARK highest, and Wagagai (4321m) in Uganda – Mt Elgon is wet much of the year, but
incl breakfast from KSh1000/1250) While these spot- This park (adult/child US$15/5) northeast of Kitale this extinct volcano offers some of the best driest between December and February. As
less rooms are smaller and less decorated is a delight. Originally set up to preserve the treks in Kenya. The national park (adult/child well as bringing waterproof gear, you will
than those at Sunrise, they have slightly habitat of the nzohe (sitatunga antelope), the US$15/5) extends from the lower slopes right need warm clothes, as it gets cold up here
more comfortable beds. It also offers dis- 3-sq-km reserve is home to blue, vervet and up to the border. at night. Altitude may also be a problem for
counted rates for children. De Brazza’s monkeys, and some 370 species Despite its lower altitude making condi- some people.
Kitale Club (%31330; A1 Hwy; s KSh1200-2700, tw of birds. The fluffy black and white colobus tions less extreme than Mt Kenya, it sees a Access to the 169-sq-km national park
KSh2000-3700; s) The ‘standard’ rooms are monkey and the impressive crowned crane fraction of its bigger cousin’s visitors. This is now permitted without a vehicle. Even
rather bland and overpriced, while the ‘ex- are both present, and you may see the Cape is due in part to its greater distance from if you have a 4WD, walking is the best way
ecutive’ options are brighter and more com- clawless and spot-throated otters. Nairobi, its wetter weather and the fact that to get around as the roads are treacherous.
fortable. The large cottages are perfect for The best part is that this pint-sized park most visitors are more interested in claim- Get a ranger to guide you (KSh500/1000
families, and offer a TV lounge, fireplace is only accessible on foot. Marked walking ing they’ve climbed Kenya’s tallest moun- per half-/full day), wherever you walk. For
and baby cot. There’s a KSh500 temporary trails skirt the swamp, duckboards go right tain. While this lack of interest is a shame, the higher slopes you will need a tent and
membership charge, which also gives you across it and there are some extremely rick- it only means those not concerned about all your own camping gear.
access to the pool, sauna, tennis and squash ety observation towers (number four is the bragging rights will have far fewer people Lonely Planet’s Trekking in East Africa
courts, and darts and snooker rooms. best placed). For an eyeful, come first thing to share the mountain with. has more juicy details on the various trek-
in the morning. Although rarely seen, the mountain’s king and walking routes, and Andy Wie-
Eating & Drinking Thanks to a new and energetic warden most famous attractions are the elephants lochowski’s Mt Elgon Map & Guide is an
Lantern Restaurant (Sunrise Motel, Kenyatta St; meals Saiwa Swamp is seeing better days. A new known for their predilection for digging essential purchase.
KSh190-300; h6pm-midnight) With meals ran- perimeter fence is protecting the sought- salt out of the lower eastern slopes’ caves.
ging from English fish and chips to Indian after trees, and rangers are working to pro- The elephants are such keen excavators Trekking
specialties and some delicious vegetarian se- tect wild sage (sitatunga’s typical food) from that some people have been fooled into be- Trekkers are encouraged to stay within the
lections, this is the place to eat. The cocktail the suffocating growth of tall grasses that lieving they are totally responsible for the park boundaries, as security has previously
bar adds to the fantastic atmosphere. have blossomed thanks to fertilizers from caves. Sadly, the number of these saline- been a problem. Check the situation with
Iroko Roots Cafe (Moi Ave; meals KSh50-110) Feel- nearby fields. Education programs are also loving creatures has declined over the KWS headquarters (%020-600800; [email protected]; PO
ing more like a coffee shop in the Rocky having success encouraging local people to years, mainly due to incursions by Ugan- Box 40241, Nairobi) in Nairobi or Mt Elgon National
Mountains, this spotless, unique place serves get involved in the protection of the park. dan poachers. Park (%054-31456; PO Box 753, Kitale) before you
the best Kenyan dishes in town and is perfect Four main lava tubes (caves) are open plan anything. Crossing into Uganda isn’t
for breakfast. Sleeping to visitors: Kitum, Chepnyalil, Mackingeny currently permitted, but ask for the latest
Pinewood (A1 Hwy; meals KSh180-480) A great new Sirikwa Safaris (%0733-793524; camping KSh415, s/d and Rongai. Mackingeny, with a waterfall at the gate.
place for Indian or Chinese fare (complete tent KSh1240/1650, farmhouse with shared bathroom s/d cascading across the entrance, is the most Allow at least four days for any round
with fresh ginger). Sit outside with views of KSh2750/3850) Owned and run by the family that spectacular. A good flashlight is essential trip and two or three days for any direct
Mt Elgon or head inside to the plethora of started Saiwa, Sirikwa Safaris is a treasure- and you should be wary of rock falls – ascent of Koitoboss if you’re walking from
pine. The pub here is also great. trove of information and activities. While the bones of a crushed elephant stand as the Chorlim gate. It is best to arrange any
camping costs are typical, the basic furnished evidence. guiding requirements at the park headquar-
Getting There & Away tents and two cosy farmhouse rooms are The mountain’s fauna and flora are also ters in advance.
Matatus, buses and Peugeots are grouped by pretty steep for what you get. Various excur- great attractions. Starting with rainforest The Park Route offers some interesting
destination in and around the chaotic main sions can be arranged from here, including at the base, the vegetation changes as you possibilities, and there is a well-worn route
bus and matatu park. Regular matatus run ornithological tours of the Cherangani Hills ascend, to bamboo jungle and finally alpine from Chorlim gate up to Koitoboss peak
to Endebess (KSh70, 45 minutes), Kapengu- and Saiwa Swamp (bird guides KSh825 per moorland with the bizarre giant groundsel that requires one or two overnight camps.
ria (KSh80, 45 minutes), Eldoret (KSh150, half-day). and giant lobelia plants. Commonly sighted If you have a vehicle, you can drive up to
414 W E S T E R N K E N YA • • M t E l g o n N a t i o n a l Pa r k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N K E N YA • • I s i o l o t o E t h i o p i a 415
Mt Elgon National Park
To Delta
Crescent
Farm (1.8km);
Endebess (4km)
3500m, but the current state of the road gate. If you want to break up the walk, make
To Endebess
(6km)
To Endebess
(30km)
3 miles
means the 32km drive can take half a day, for Delta Crescent Farm, spend the night
5 km
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
and then it’s a two- to three-hour walk up there and then walk the remaining 5.5km to
to the peak. the gate the next morning (you’ll need time
Chorlim
gate
River
4
Descending, you have a number of op- to organise guides in any case). Locals will
F
2000 tions. Firstly you can descend northwest into happily point you in the right direction.
2
s
obos
1
the crater to Suam Hot Springs. Alternatively, If you’re driving, the road up to the park
5
Forest Station
Mount Elgon
Koit
if the security situation improves, you could is OK, but once inside a 4WD is essential.
3
North
er
6
Suam
Riv
Rongai
go east around the crater rim and descend
Elephant
Platform
Cave
NORTHERN KENYA
River
0
0
the Masara Route, which leads to the small
Masara
Masara
Route
Enderbess
Bluff
village of Masara on the eastern slopes of
Chepnyalil
Bridge
River
Suam
00
gate (closed)
Cave
Saito Special
24
the mountain (a trek of about 25km) and
Camp Site
Kassowai
Mackingeny
Kitum
Cave
Saw Mill
Cave
Suam
then returns to Endebess. Lastly, you can Northern Kenya is more an experience than
ga
Forest Station
Mbere
pte
Kimothon
head southwest around the rim of the crater a series of destinations. There’s constantly
K E N YA
Ka
K E N YA
E
Route
Suam
(some very hard walking) to Lower Elgon Tarn, something catching your eye, whether it’s
Saito
Dam
er
Riv where you can camp before ascending Lower enthralling Gabbra tribespeople walking the
gate (closed)
Elgon Peak (4301m). To return you simply desolate, shattered lava fields, extinct vol-
Kimothon
00
24
2800
800
head back the way you came. canos rising from desert seas or simply the
2
Park road tracking across the plains. The com-
(3302m)
Koitcut
Route
Sleeping & Eating
i
plete and utter beauty of the ‘Jade Sea’ (Lake
owa
Kass
If you’re trekking your only option is to camp Turkana), the baking, barren shores of which
River
2800
(adult/child US$8/5). This fee is the same wherever stretch over the horizon to a distant Ethiopia
00
28
ss
you pitch your tent. Chorlim Campsite has some 250km away, can’t be overstated.
00
obo
D
32
ge
or
Chorlim- Koit
the park’s best facilities but is less scenic than The Turkana, Samburu, Rendille, Gab-
G
am
0 the other public sites, Nyati and Rongai. bra, Boran and El-Molo tribes of northern
National Park
280
Mount Elgon
Su
an
wy Kapkuro Bandas (US$30) These excellent stone Kenya are some of the most fascinating
Trail head
be
0
for 4WD
vehicles
320
Ka
Forest Station
(abandoned)
bandas can sleep three people in two beds, people on earth – a respectful glimpse into
Chepkitale
and have simple bathrooms and small kitch- their world is priceless. Many choose to
3200
00
36
KENYA
3200 ens. Hot water is provided by a wood stove, have little contact with the modern world,
while solar panels provide electricity. Bring preferring centuries-old traditional lifestyles
Koitoboss
(4187m)
Austrian Hut
Cave
food, as there’s only one small shop nearby. that bind members of the tribe together.
r
Rive
(ruined)
ute Delta Crescent Farm (%0722-2489317; camping Unique wildlife, like the reticulated giraffe
C
Ro
(4176m)
KSh200, tw with shared bathroom incl breakfast KSh2000) and endangered Grevy’s zebra, also call
Sudek
Lower Elgon
er
Suam
Riv Conveniently located between Endebess northern Kenya home, mixing with the likes
(4301m)
li
Kimili
and Chorlim gate, this farm has three huge of lions, elephants and oryxes in the varied
0
400
Kibusi
Suam Hot
Springs
areas for campers along with three basic, landscapes of Samburu, Buffalo Springs and
(Lower Elgon
UGANDA
Sacred Lake
clean bandas. Four-person and 12-person Shaba National Reserves.
4000
Little Wagagai
0
Tarn)
320
Round Top
Campsite
(3890m)
(4298m)
rental tents are also available for KSh800 and For those with extra energy to burn, there’s
Peak
Hill
River
Terim KSh2000 respectively (plus camping fees). great hiking potential around Marich, Mar-
0
MT ELGON NATIONAL PARK
0
360
Transfers to Chorlim Gate and Kitale are alal and Marsabit. If walking isn’t your thing,
400
3600
available (KSh1500 per vehicle), as are 4WD it’s also the perfect place for a camel safari.
Wagagai
(4321m)
River
B
Mubiyi
Mallkisi
tours of the park. Where there’s reward, there’s usually some
Mt Elgon Lodge (%0722-866480; PO Box 7, Endebess; risk and northern Kenya is no exception; see
00
40
Jackson's
s/tw incl breakfast KSh3500/5000) Despite the moun- p418. The heat will fry your brain and your
Summit
0
National Park Headquarters......1 F4
F4
F4
F4
F4
F4
320
tain views, huge fireplaces and some colonial 4WD will beg for mercy. Don’t worry, you’ll
Chorlim Campsite.....................2
Kapkuro Bandas.......................3
Mt Elgon Lodge.......................4
Nyati Campsite.........................5
Rongai Campsite......................6
charm, this tattered lodge is severely over- love every minute of it!
00
36
priced, though after a few days of trekking
a meal in its restaurant (meals KSh350 to ISIOLO TO ETHIOPIA
KSh450) is a godsend. Besides being a gateway to Ethiopia’s riches,
INFORMATION
this route offers northern Kenya’s best wild-
SLEEPING
A
Getting There & Away life viewing along with some incredible
00
28 Sporadic matatus and Peugeots now reach culture and landscapes. New hiking possi-
00
32
the Chorlim gate from Kitale (KSh80, one bilities in the Ndoto Mountains and several
hour). More regular services reach Endebess pioneering community wildlife-conservation
2
3
1
(KSh70, 45 minutes), a 9km walk from the projects only add to the region’s appeal.
416 N O R T H E R N K E N YA www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N K E N YA • • I s i o l o t o E t h i o p i a 417
Northern Kenya Isiolo
Isiolo ISIOLO 0 200 m
60 miles
100 km
0 0.1 miles
%064
To Kisimayo (93km);
Mogadishu (491km)
Mandera
r Isiolo is a vital pit stop on the long road A B
ve
SOMALIA
Ri
d
ital R
na
le north, as it’s the last place with decent fa- To Police Checkpoint (1.7km);
Wajir Junction (1.7km);
To Isiolo Telephone
Exchange (200m);
Ge
Mayo
Bokol
District Hospital
cilities until Maralal or Marsabit.
National Sanctuary
Hosp
Samburu (28km); Buffalo 2 (350m)
NR National Reserve
Springs National Reserve A2
How you interpret this frontier town (28km); Wamba (80km);
Ramu
1
NP National Park
Maralal (198km);
depends on which direction you’re com- Marsabit (313km);
Moyale (460km)
Ὀ ing from. Arrive from the south and you’ll
LEGEND
Malka Mari
get your first taste of the remote northeast
0
0
El Wak
B9
Malka
Mari
NP
(hopefully not a mouthful of dirt blown up 7
NS
3
Liboi
by late-afternoon squalls!). Besides arid con-
r
Rive
1
Takaba
ditions, you’ll undoubtedly notice the large 10
4
D500 Somali population (descendants of WWI
Banissa
Wajir
5
veterans who settled here), and the strik-
K E N YA
K E N YA
Tarbaj
Dawa
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
C83
ing faces of Boran, Samburu and Turkana
12
Habaswein
people walking the streets. Pull in from the
D504
To Garissa
8
(100km)
north and you’ll notice little other than the
C80
Woyamdero
A2
Buna
ETHIOPIA
Plain
verdant Central Highlands and omnipres-
Mado Gashi
ent Mt Kenya towering in the distance. Your Mosque
C81
Moyale
6
mind will wander to thoughts of crisp air
er
Riv
ὈὈ and cool nights – heaven ahead indeed!
Dida Galgalu
In respect of Isiolo’s strong Muslim
Desert
Ababa (501km);
Sigiso
Awasa (265km)
B9
Plain
To Addis
community, women should avoid wearing
iro
Ng
A2
3
6
shorts or short skirts.
Sololo
Mega
9
nt
me
Marsabit
Ewaso
INFORMATION
Marsabit
SLEEPING
rp
NP
Loglogo
ca
Yabelo
11 Bomen Hotel....................3 B1
Banks are scarce in the north, so plan
Es
Ngaso
ga
Plain
Laisamis
Jamhuri Guest House......4 A2
Ὀ Me
Shaba
Marsabit
ahead. Mocharo Lodge...............5 B2
NR
A2
NR
Archer's
Ol Lolokwe
Transit Hotel....................6 B3
Serolevi
Wildlife Meru
l ls Consolidated Bank of Kenya (A2 Hwy) No ATM.
Isiolo
C77
i
Post
Kaisut
Desert
Kalacha
i H
Mara Marsabit
Hu r
(2066m) (1707m)
Changes cash and AmEx travellers cheques. To Range Land Hotel Catholic EATING
Kargi
Conservancy
Losai
Wamba
NR
(6km); Lewa Wildlife Church
Mt
s 101 Supermarket..............7 B1
District Hospital (Hospital Rd; h24hr)
Maikona
a in
Karoli
Desert
Conservancy (12km);
Lewa
Ngurunit
e
Samburu
t ng Fremia Hotel....................8 B2
un
Buffalo Springs
Chalbi Desert
Ra Il Ngwesi (32km);
Chew Bahir
o
NR
s Isiolo Telephone Exchange (Hospital Rd) Calling cards Market............................9 A3
Ol Donyo
M Meru (56km);
ew
South Horr
Lake
North
th Nanyuki (81km);
Horr
Silver Bells Hotel............10 B2
o
NR
t 4
ot
and cardphones. Nairobi (296km)
a
Nd
Parsaloi
Loyangalani
C78
Mt Kulal
Il Ngwesi
(2293m)
Ὀ
Ὀ
Ὀ
TRANSPORT
Post office (Hospital Rd)
(2050m)
Mt Poi
Kisima
Nairobi Nanyuki
Maralal
INFORMATION Matatu & Bus Stand......11 A3
Laikipia
Baragoi
Teleki Volcano
Consolidated Bank of Nairobi Express..............12 A2
NR
Lesiolo
Logipi
Gussi
Lake
Poror
Ol Donyo
(2752m)
Kenya..........................1 A2 Trucks & Buses to
SLEEPING
C77
(190km)
Nyiro
Lake Bogoria NR
Fort Banya
Post Office.......................2 B1 Marsabit & Moyale..(see 12)
To
Central Island
Loroghi
Mocharo Lodge (%52385; s/tw KSh350/450) Sizable
Plateau
Rumuruti
South Island
a ey
Maralal
a ll
Sibiloi
n
ka ta V
Ileret
NS
NP
Baringo
clean rooms proffer mosquito nets, comfy
NP
S ug u
ur
NP
Lake
Kelem
Nyahururu
T
Marigat
Transit Hotel (%52083; s/tw KSh500/900) It’s
Kito Pass
River
beds and hot water (morning only). Some
Lokori
Kamnarok Loruk
C133
River
Ferguson's
Omo
toilets are seatless, so if you don’t want to dropped its rates substantially, but rooms
Kapedo
ὈὈὈ
Ὀ
Lake
Springs
Bogoria
Gulf
Valley
Eliye
Kerio Valley/
Lake
Lokichar
Rift
be a porcelain jockey check out a few rooms. are still just more expensive versions of Mo-
Kabarnet
Lokitaung
Turkana
NR
Kalokol
io
Ker
C46
South
There’s also secure parking, a decent restaur- charo Lodge’s.
Tot
NR
A1
Marich
Sigor
B4
Eldama
Ravine
ant and TV room. Bomen Hotel (%52389; s/tw/ste KSh900/1500/2500)
B53
River
ei a n i Hill s
Lodwar
Weiw r a ng
Che Range Land Hotel (% 0721-434353; A2 Hwy; NGO’s favourite home, the Bomen has the
Swamp
Iten
Saiwa
Kakamega Kakamega A104
River Turkwel
Mt Sekerr
Tamkal
Kitale NP
Nasolot
(3326m)
camping KSh200, tw cottage per person KSh1000) About town’s brightest (ask for one facing outward)
NORTHERN KENYA
NR
nge
Marich Pass
Eldoret
Forest NR
Suam Makutano
Turkwel Gorge
Ra
6km south of town, this is a nice option and most comfortable rooms. Prices are
Lorukumu
Malaba Webuye Soy
ech ills
Kisumu
ek H Rv
Pel a
for campers and families. Shade is rare, steep, especially since some toilets are seat-
Kakuma
im
A1
Mt Elgon
Lo
but there’s now grass to plant your tent on less, but some rooms have TV and shared
Lokichoggio
Bungoma
NP
and one of the stone cottages, with a nice terraces with views.
A1
UGANDA
Mt Elgon
(4321m)
bathroom, chairs and TV, is set aside for
SUDAN
e
B3
(77km); Butere
ng
Ra
To Soroti (55km)
ila
your use. EATING
Busia
Mog
A104
Jamhuri Guest House (s/tw with shared bathroom Transit Hotel is a rare place serving more
Kampala
(157km)
To Jinja
(287km)
Tororo
To Juba
Mbale
KSh120/200, s with private bathroom KSh250) Popular than the local usuals, with fried tilapia, pep-
A109
with budget travellers in the past, it’s sim- per steak, vegetable cutlets and curries up
ple, clean enough and has secure parking. for grabs (meals KSh120 to KSh250). The
418 N O R T H E R N K E N YA • • I s i o l o t o E t h i o p i a www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N K E N YA • • S a m b u r u , B u f f a l o S p r i n g s & S h a b a N a t i o n a l R e s e r ve s 419
Around Isiolo velopment. The Maasai of Il Ngwesi, with
WARNING LEWA WILDLIFE CONSERVANCY substantial help from their neighbour LWC,
Unfortunately, security problems have plagued northern Kenya for years. In the 1990s a mas- While the massive 263-sq-km Lewa Wildlife have transformed this undeveloped land,
sive influx of cheap guns from the many conflict zones just outside Kenya dramatically altered Conservancy (LWC; %064-31405; www.lewa.org; admis- previously used for subsistence pastoral-
traditional balances of power. Minor conflicts stemming from grazing rights and cattle rustling, sion incl in accommodation rates) could boast about ism, into a prime wildlife conservation area
formerly settled by compensation rather than violence, quickly escalated into ongoing gun bat- its luxury lodges, stunning scenery, astound- hosting the likes of white and black rhinos,
tles and authorities had trouble restoring order. ing wildlife activities and repeatedly host- waterbucks, giraffes and many other plains
While travellers rarely witnessed intertribal conflict, the abundance of guns led to increases in ing Prince William, staff would rather talk animals. It’s truly fitting that Il Ngwesi
banditry that posed a significant risk to anyone moving through the region. However, the new about their community and conservation translates to ‘people of wildlife’.
government has clamped down on lawlessness, and security in the north has turned for the bet- projects. Founded in 1995, LWC now spends The community now supplements its
ter. Convoys and armed guards are no longer used between Marich and Lodwar and between an amazing 30% of its budget on healthcare herding income with tourist dollars gained
Isiolo and Moyale on the Ethiopian border. Although the notoriously dangerous conditions on and education for surrounding villages, 40% from its award-winning ecolodge, Il Ngwesi
the road between Lodwar and Lokichoggio, near the Sudanese border, have improved enough towards community projects, with the rest Group Ranch (%020-340331; [email protected];
funding conservation and security. full board s/d US$209/418; s). Six open-fronted
K E N YA
for local trucks and matatus to travel unguarded, the UN and nongovernmental organisations
K E N YA
(NGOs) still travel in large convoys. Their conservancy effort has been astound- thatched cottages boast views from a dra-
Sadly, all isn’t on the mend and sporadic bloody tribal conflicts still arise, like in July 2005 ing and 20% of the world’s Grevy’s zebras, matic escarpment that will have you smil-
when 44 people (including 27 children) were killed in Marsabit district’s remote Turbi region. 8% of Kenya’s black rhinos, a rare population ing yourself to sleep and shaking your head
The whole northeastern region around Garsen, Garissa, Wajir and Mandera is still shifta (bandit) of aquatic sitatunga antelopes, and sizable when the sun rises (especially in cottages
country and you should avoid travelling here. Thanks to a 1999 conflict between the Ethiopian populations of white rhinos, elephants, buf- one and five, where the beds roll out be-
government and Oromo Liberation Front (fighting for independence in southern Ethiopia) spill- faloes, leopards, lions and cheetahs now call neath the stars). Natural materials are used
ing over into Kenya around Moyale, landmines have been reported – stick to well-marked paths this magical place home. throughout and you’ll never be so in love
outside of town. Wildlife drives in private vehicles aren’t with twisted, crooked wood – who likes
Improvements or not, security in northern Kenya is a dynamic entity and travellers should seek permitted and only guests of the LWC’s straight lines anyway? The best part is that
local advice about the latest developments before travelling and never take unnecessary risks. lodges are allowed into the conservancy. A profits go straight to the Maasai commu-
plethora of activities, ranging from drives nity. Advance reservations are essential and
and walks to camel rides and conservation getting here requires a serious 4WD.
Bomen Hotel is similar to the Transit Hotel, For Maralal take an early matatu to outings, are available at most lodges.
with nicer seats and elevated prices (meals Wamba (KSh300, 2½ hours), and then the SAMBURU, BUFFALO SPRINGS &
KSh130 to KSh380). midday Maralal matatu (KSh300, 2½ hours). Sleeping & Eating SHABA NATIONAL RESERVES
Fremia Hotel (meals KSh50-100) Like most Regular matatus leave from a chaotic stand Lewa House (%064-31405; [email protected]; exclusive These three national reserves (adult/child US$30/10),
places, it will have little left on the menu around the market, and also serve Archer’s use per night incl wildlife drives US$840; s) Six sublime comprising some 300 sq km, straddle the
after 8pm. However, staff will actually run Post (KSh80, 45 minutes), Meru (KSh120, thatched-roof African chalets, comfortably Ewaso Ngiro River and include a breadth of
out and buy supplies to prepare your meal 1½ hours), Nanyuki (KSh150, two hours) sleeping 12 people, form Lewa House. Pri- wildlife, vegetation and landscapes. Shaba,
of choice – smile and be patient! and Nairobi (KSh450, five hours). Peugeots vacy is guaranteed since it’s rented exclu- with its great rocky kopjes (isolated hills),
Silver Bells Hotel (meals KSh 60-150) A good also service Meru (KSh150, 1¼ hours). sively to one group at a time. For full board, natural springs and doum palms, is the
spot for cheap and greasy predeparture add US$120 per person per night. most physically beautiful, while open savan-
breakfasts. Four-Wheel Drive Lewa Safari Camp (%064-31405; www.lewasafari nas, scrub desert and verdant river foliage
Northbound self-caterers should hit Isiolo marks the Tarmac’s northern ter- camp.com; full board s/d incl wildlife drives US$285/570; in Samburu and Buffalo Springs virtually
101 Supermarket and the market near the minus and the start of the corrugated dirt h closed Nov) Twelve luxurious octagonal guarantee close encounters with elephants,
mosque to purchase food and drink, as and gravel, which will shake the guts out tents hang beneath charming thatched reticulated giraffes, Grevy’s zebras, Somali
there’s very little available beyond here. of you and your vehicle. There are several roofs, offering privacy and a slice of the ostriches, Beisa oryxes and the elegant
petrol stations, so top up as prices climb African safari dream. The lounge, dining giraffe-necked gerenuks.
GETTING THERE & AWAY and supply diminishes northward. If you’re room, food and service are all top-notch. After brazen lodge hold-ups in Samburu
Although convoys are no longer being used heading south, Central Highlands petrol is several years ago, security has improved,
north to Marsabit, check the security situ- cheaper. Getting There & Away with ranger and KWS lookouts at vantage
ation thoroughly with locals and the police LWC is only 12km south of Isiolo and is well points throughout the reserve. However, this
checkpoint north of town before leaving. Hitching signposted on A2 Hwy. Airkenya (%020-605745; didn’t stop poachers killing 25 elephants in
Trucks are filthy and uncomfortable, but a www.airkenya.com) and Safarilink (%020-600777; early 2002. Things have been quiet since, and
Bus & Matatu viable option for the northbound adventur- www.safarilink.co.ke) have daily ‘request stop’ visitor numbers are steadily increasing.
The best option to Nairobi is Nairobi Express ous. Although they pick up passengers at the flights to LWC from Nairobi. Return fares
(A2 Hwy), operating daily buses (KSh500, 4½ police checkpoint north of town, better seats on Airkenya/Safarilink are US$199/222. Information
hours) at 6.45am. The bus north to Marsabit are available if you board when they stop Conveniently, admission for Buffalo Springs,
(KSh600, 8½ hours) and Moyale (KSh1200, near Nairobi Express. Drain your bladder, IL NGWESI Shaba and Samburu is transferable, so you
17 hours) picks up passengers at Nairobi purchase enough food, water and sunscreen, Il Ngwesi is a pioneering project linking only pay once, even if you’re visiting all three
Express between 11pm and midnight. and hop aboard. wildlife conservation and community de- in one day.
420 N O R T H E R N K E N YA • • S a m b u r u & B u f f a l o S p r i n g s N a t i o n a l R e s e r ve s N O R T H E R N K E N YA • • S a m b u r u , B u f f a l o S p r i n g s & S h a b a N a t i o n a l R e s e r ve s 421
Samburu & Buffalo Springs National Reserves
If you’re driving, Survey of Kenya’s map
To Shaba National
Reserve (3km)
3 miles
5 km
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ Samburu & Buffalo Springs Game Reserves THE CALL OF THE WILD
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
(SK 85) is helpful, but hard to find. Getting Just when you thought that everyone and
River
around isn’t difficult, but some minor roads their dog already had a mobile phone,
Archer's
are 4WD only and the maze of wayward Save the Elephants (% 020-891673; www
F
Post
To Isiolo (23km);
Nairobi (308km)
o
Ngir minibus tracks can be confusing. .savetheelephants.com) in Samburu National
Petrol is available at Shaba Sarova Lodge Reserve has given them to elephants! Each
Mission Hospital
Police Post
Church School
and Samburu Game Lodge. hour, without the mighty pachyderms hav-
Choka
gate
A2
Public Campsite 1
Ewaso
ing to bat an ear, GSM collars send text
Campsite 5
A2
Campsite 4
Sleeping & Eating messages to each scientist’s phone with
Public
Campsite 2
Campsite 3
Public
Gare Mara
E820
Each reserve is blessed with at least one lux-
ὅ
ὅ their current location. This allows Save the
gate
Swamp
Public
Public
Springs
Buffalo
The
Wildlife Conservancy gate(4km);
ury lodge and several camp sites. For camp-
0
0
Elephants to track elephants in real time,
1
To Kalama Community
To A2 Hwy
ers and day visitors, all the luxury lodges something never possible before.
(1.5km)
Marsabit (275km)
Maralal (160km);
Wamba (57km);
have buffet meals (around KSh1825).
K E N YA
By studying elephants’ movements,
Post gate
K E N YA
E
Archer's
Ranger's
Ranger's
Post
scientists can discover important migra-
Post
BUFFALO SPRINGS NATIONAL RESERVE tion corridors between reserves and work
ὅὅ
ὅὅὅ ὅὅ
Samburu Serena Lodge (%064-30800, Nairobi %020-
Nakadeli
to protect them. If these routes became
9
Maji Chumvi River 2710511; [email protected]; full board low season s/d denuded and migration ceased, the sheer
Kubi Panya
US$80/160, high season US$200/260; s) Though not magnitude of elephants’ appetites would
Lower River
Lookout
Circuit
as extravagant as Shaba Sarova Lodge, it’s destroy their immediate environment and
8
River
olo
Isi still lovely and offers plenty of activities, like threaten their survival.
rve
Disused
Airstrip
Lowa Mara
Rese slide shows, bird walks, hikes up L’Olgotoi Interested visitors are welcome; call in
ὅὅ
ὅὅ
Hill and camel rides. Comfy cottages, with advance, but don’t expect the elephants
D
onal
breezy verandas, reed-lined ceilings and to answer…
ὅὅὅ
3
Nati
canopy beds, line the riverbank.
Samburu National Reserve
Buffalo Springs Lodge (Box 71, Isiolo; s/tw KSh1000/
gs
SAMBURU & BUFFALO SPRINGS NATIONAL RESERVES
Sprin
2000) The state of the swimming pool speaks ing more privacy, tasteful décor, modern
Koitogor
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ (1245m)
volumes – it’s half-empty, or is it half-full? bathrooms and larger verandas.
Upper River
Lowamara
On the positive side, the wood, reed-lined Larsens Tented Camp (%020-559529; wilderness@
alo
Warden's Office
Circuit
Buff
cottages are rather charming and easily the mitsuminet.com; full board low season s/tw US$169/226,
best value around. On the negative side, high season US$251/320) Sitting beneath acacias
Airstrip
there’s no food available, the thatched ce- and spread along the riverbank are spacious
6
C
ment cottages are dreary and have lumpy and oh so very comfortable semipermanent
Lolkoitoi
cuit
beds, and let’s not forget the pool! tents. Each boasts scenic verandas, rugs,
Uaso
gate
Cir
Viewpoint
Merti El
Special camp sites (camping KSh825) While scen- modern bathrooms and king-size beds, com-
Nashapa
7
Debe
4WD only
Mil
ically located by freshwater springs along plete with headboards resembling colonial-
-
Six
Campsites
the Isiolo and Maji ya Chumvi Rivers, there style leather chests. Two tents are wheelchair
Wildlife Conservancy
Special
Kalama Community
only are no facilities. accessible.
Giltaman
D
4W
Samburu Intrepids Club (%064-30453, Nairobi
SAMBURU NATIONAL RESERVE %020-446651; www.heritage-eastafricas.com; full board
Elephant Watch Camp (%020-891112; www.elephant s/d US$300/450; s) Grab a G&T, sink into the
D3
D3
A2
C3
C3
C3
B2
E2
E3
B
ver
bar’s teak loungers and gaze over the Ewaso
Buffalo Springs Lodge.....................1
Elephant Watch Camp...................2
Larsens Tented Camp.....................3
Samburu Game Lodge...................4
Samburu Intrepids Club..................5
Samburu Public Campsite...............6
Samburu Serena Lodge..................7
Special Campsite............................8
Special Campsite.............................9
Gilta man Ri watchsafaris.com; full board incl guided walks s/d Apr & Nov
Campsites
Special
US$320/640, rest of year US$360/720) Undoubtedly Ngiro. While thatched roofs and canopy beds
the most unique and memorable stay in in the luxurious tents scream Africa, the re-
r 5
the reserves. Massive thatched roofs cling fined furniture unfortunately shrieks Fortune
ve
Ri
Lolgot ve
r iro to crooked acacia branches and tower over 500. The friendly service is unmatched.
Ri
r
o Ng
Ba
cosy, palatial eight-sided tents and large ter- Samburu Public Campsite (camping KSh440)
2
so
races. Natural materials pervade and the Spread along the Ewaso Ngiro River’s
SLEEPING
Ewa
bathrooms are stunning. northern bank, this site is blessed with new
Samburu Game Lodge (%020-559529; wilderness@
Ranger's Post
bathroom blocks and some secluded spots
West gate
Campsite
Special
A
mitsuminet.com; full board s/tw low season US$130/165, for tents.
high season US$200/250; s) Several thatched log
cottages and one large apartmentlike block SHABA NATIONAL RESERVE
sit riverside in this perennial favourite. The Shaba Sarova Lodge (%020-713333; reservations@
2
3
1
bright cottages are much better value, offer- sarova.co.ke; full board s/d Mar-Jun US$87/135, Jul-Feb
422 N O R T H E R N K E N YA • • M a t t h e w s R a n g e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N K E N YA • • M a r s a b i t N a t i o n a l Pa r k 423
US$130/185; s) This spectacular, almost over- in Wamba is the only option besides bush Karantin (1707m), is a rewarding 5km hike Getting There & Away
the-top place nestles on the Ewaso Ngiro camping. If it’s full, you could try the local from town through lush vegetation and Although improved security meant con-
River. Next to the magnificent pool, natural mission (which incidentally has northern moss-covered trees. The view from Karan- voys and armed guards weren’t being used
springs flow through the gorgeous open-air Kenya’s best hospital, a fact worth remem- tin is astounding. to Moyale or Isiolo during our research,
bar and beneath the lofty 200-seat restaur- bering while in the bush). While the town is less attractive than its it’s still wise to get the latest security and
ant. The rooms? They’re pretty lavish, too! While matatus from Isiolo and Maralal lush surrounds, which comprise the 1500-sq- Ethiopian border information from locals
Special camp sites (camping KSh825) Of the sev- reach Wamba, there’s no point in coming km Marsabit National Reserve, it’s interest- and the police station before leaving town.
eral special camp sites (no facilities) here, without a vehicle. Getting to Sarara Camp ing due to an intriguing migrant population
Funan, set in Shaba’s core, takes the cake. isn’t easy, even with a 4WD – it’s probably and a (sometimes volatile) mixture of local BUS
Shaded by acacias, it’s next to a semiper- best to arrange a transfer or get detailed tribes. The best place to take in the cornuco- With security on the mend, a bus now
manent spring, which provides water for directions when booking. pia of culture is the lively market. connects Marsabit to Moyale (KSh600, 8½
visitors and wildlife alike. A ranger must ac- hours). There’s no designated stop; simply
company you to these camp sites; the cost is NDOTO MOUNTAINS Information flag it down on the A2 Hwy as it comes
included in the fee but a tip is appropriate. Climbing from the Korante Plain’s sands are through town around 5pm each day (en
K E N YA
Kenya Commercial Bank Off Post Office Rd. No ATM.
K E N YA
the magnificent rusty bluffs and ridges of Changes cash and travellers cheques. route from Nairobi!). The same service heads
Getting There & Away the Ndoto Mountains. Kept a virtual secret Medical clinic (Post Office Rd; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat, south to Isiolo (KSh600, 8½ hours) at 9am.
Daily flights from Nairobi to Samburu are from the travelling world by their remote noon-7pm Sun)
available with Airkenya (%020-605745; www.air location, the Ndotos abound with hiking, Post office (Post Office Rd) FOUR-WHEEL DRIVE
kenya.com) and Safarilink (%020-600777; www.safari climbing and bouldering potential. Mt Poi You’ll find the Moyale road less corrugated
link.co.ke). Return fares on Airkenya/Safarilink (2050m), which resembles the world’s largest Sleeping than that to Isiolo, but its sharp stones will
are US$199/222. The vehicle-less can prob- bread loaf from some angles, is a technical JeyJey Centre (%2296; A2 Hwy; s/tw/tr with shared devour your tyres and the deep ruts will give
ably rustle up a 4WD and local driver for climber’s dream, its sheer 800m north face bathroom KSh250/400/600, s with private bathroom KSh400) your undercarriage a good scrub. The only
about KSh6000 per day. begging to be bagged. If you’re fit and have Owned by government MP JJ Falana, this fuel north is in Moyale, so stock up here. As
a whole day to spare, it’s a great hike to the is the best lodge in town. Clean rooms with a rule, if buses and trucks travel in a convoy
MATTHEWS RANGE summit and the views are extraordinary. mosquito nets surround a colourful courtyard, or take armed soldiers on board, you should
West of the remarkable flat-topped moun- The tiny village of Ngurunit is the best and bathrooms (even shared ones) sport on- too! For advice on travel to Loyangalani,
tain Ol Lolokwe and north of Wamba is the base for your adventures and is interesting in demand hot water. There’s also a TV room, see p428.
Matthews Range. Its thick evergreen forests its own right, with captivating, traditionally a decent restaurant and an unattractive camp
support elephants, lions, buffaloes and Ken- dressed Samburu people living in simple, yet site (per person KSh150). Spot the guard 50 HITCHING
ya’s most important wild dog population. elegantly woven grass huts. bob and your vehicle will sleep safely. Trucks regularly ply the bus routes for about
These dramatic mountains (highest peak Ngurunit is best accessed from Loglogo, Diku’s Complex Lodge (%2465; A2 Hwy; s/tw with KSh100 less, but balancing your malnour-
2285m) offer great opportunities to explore 47km south of Marsabit and 233km north shared bathroom KSh300/600) North of JeyJey and ished butt on a metal bar above discontented
the depths of Kenya’s wilds. With few roads, of Archer’s Post. It’s a tricky 79km drive tucked behind a wholesale store is this cows for eight hours, while simultaneously
only those willing to go the extra mile on (1¾ hours), with many forks, through the simple and slightly overpriced place. The battling the sun, wind and dust, is one tricky,
foot will be rewarded with the spoils. Kaisut Desert. spartan rooms (four walls and a bed) are tiring act! On the flip side, you’ll have a life-
In 1995 local Samburu communities spacious, but lack mosquito nets. The shared time of memories. One or two trucks a week
collectively formed the Namunyak Wildlife MARSABIT showers are clean, while the cement-block also leave Marsabit for Loyangalani (KSh700,
Conservation Trust, now one of Kenya’s most %069 squat toilets could use a wee wash. seven hours) via Kargi. Most trucks pick up
successful community conservation pro- Approach Marsabit in fading light and opposite JeyJey Centre.
grams. The trust is unique because it’s run you’ll undoubtedly rub your weary eyes in Eating & Drinking
by a democratically elected board, each disbelief. Scattered across the plains, sur- Five Steers Hotel (A2 Hwy; meals KSh70-130) It’s eas- MARSABIT NATIONAL PARK
community having one trustee. Now en- rounded by desert and strangely reminis- ily the best local eatery. The half-Federation This relatively small park (adult/child US$15/5),
dorsed by KWS, it oversees 750 sq km and cent of Egyptian pyramids (we did say weary meal (a bulging pile of rice, spaghetti, beef, nestled on Mt Marsabit’s upper slopes, hosts
has substantially increased animal popula- eyes!) are fields of dramatic cinder cones vegetables and chapati) is filling and sur- thick forests and a variety of wildlife, includ-
tions by successfully combating poaching. (volcanic vents). Climbing towards town, prisingly tasty. ing lions, leopards, elephants and rhinos.
To capitalise on its wildlife resources and the bleached yellows and browns turn to Mamba Cafe (A2 Hwy; meals KSh50-100) This small During our visit we were lucky enough to
fund community projects, the trust built rich shades of green and the mercury takes a shack next to JeyJey Centre is perfect for see a large cobra at close range, with its neck
Sarara Tented Camp (%020-600457; info@bush-and heavenly dip downward, adding pleasure to breakfast and its chai is spot on. spread into the infamous ‘hood’. We say
-beyond.com; full board s/d incl conservancy fee US$490/780; your continued feelings of astonishment. If you’re short of food or supplies check lucky because we were in our truck at the
hclosed May & Nov; s). With its grand, thatched The entire area surrounding Marsabit out the market and Nomads Shopping Store time!
open-fronted lounge, enveloping comfort, is actually a behemoth 6300-sq-km shield (Post Office Rd; hMon-Sat). You won’t get to see much big wildlife
sublime surrounds and natural rock pool, volcano, whose surface is peppered with Thanks to a strong Muslim influence, beer on a quick drive-through of the park, so
guests benefit as much as the cause. no less than 180amazing cinder cones and can be hard to find. The best spot for a cold stick around and camp at Lake Paradise. This
For budgeteers, the basic El-Moran (s with 22 volcanic craters (gofs or maars), many one is New Saku Bar (Post Office Rd), which has a small lake, which occupies the Gof Sokorte
shared bathroom KSh150, with private bathroom KSh250) housing lakes. Mt Marsabit’s highest peak, lively interior and relaxed outdoor section. Guda’s crater floor, is lovely and the views
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
424 N O R T H E R N K E N YA • • M o y a l e
Marsabit National Park
MARSABIT
NATIONAL PARK
0
0
3 km
2 miles
www.lonelyplanet.com
fascinating countries, Ethiopia. The drive
from Marsabit is long and hard (on you and
www.lonelyplanet.com
If you’re not in a hurry, Bobong Camp
(%062-32718; [email protected]; PO Box 5, Ru-
N O R T H E R N K E N YA • • M a r a l a l t o Tu r k a n a ’ s E a s t e r n S h o re 425
crazy but almost as memorable are the year-
round camel safaris and trekking that are
ὈὈὈὈ
your 4WD), with the Dida Galgalu Desert’s muruti; camping KSh250, 4-person bandas KSh3000) offers offered here.
A B seemingly endless black shattered lava fields some of Kenya’s cheapest self-catered camel Sadly, most self-drivers don’t delve into
To
Loyangalani (260km) stretching out before you, and the imposing safaris (per camel per day KSh1000) and cultural visits Maralal, stopping only for a night en route
1 To South Horr (179km);
Loyangalani (224km) C82 Gof
Mega Escarpment seemingly climbing ever (per group KSh5000) to Turkana and Samburu to Lake Turkana. The opposite is true for
Marsabit National Reserve
Redo
higher as you approach near Sololo. communities. Nyahururu–Maralal matatus independent travellers, who end up spend-
In stark contrast to the solitary journey (KSh60, 45 minutes) can drop you here, but ing more time here than planned, simply
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Gof Airstrip here, Moyale’s small, sandy streets burst may charge full fare (KSh300). because transport north is erratic at best.
ὈὈὈὈ
Mude A2
Main gate
(Ahmed)
To
Moyale
with activity. The town’s Ethiopian half Let’s face it though, there are worse places
Ulanula
Karantin
(1707m) Marsabit
(250km) is more developed, complete with sealed Maralal to get stuck!
(1530m)
Headquarters roads, and there’s a palpable difference in its %065 People here are generally friendly, but
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
A2 gate
2 Public Campsite atmosphere. Tin roofs poke from the forested Loroghi you’ll quickly encounter Maralal’s own
Gof Park
It’s possible to enter Ethiopia for the day Hills overlooking Maralal’s wide tree-lined professional tout posse. You’ll be offered
K E N YA
K E N YA
Sokorte Headquarters
2 Dika
without a visa, but Ethiopian officials will boulevards below. Sounds pretty, but it’s everything from bangles to guiding serv-
ὈὈὈὈ
bit
1 Gof Sokorte rsa hold your passport until you return. The not. Where Maralal’s charm lies is in its ices, friendly ‘advice’ and Samburu wed-
Ma
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Guda st
Ajaumarku re
(1428m) Lake Marsabit Fo border closes at 6pm – don’t be late! The frontier rough-and-ready atmosphere, with dings, and their persistence can be truly
Karare gate Paradise National Commercial Bank of Ethiopia, 2km from colourful Samburu people wandering the astounding – use your best judgment and
Park
Water
A2
Baleso
Bongole Songo Hole the border, changes travellers cheques (0.5% dusty streets and weathered characters sit- keep your wits about you.
(1264m) Gambela
Wells
commission), as well as US dollars and ting beneath shabby street-side verandas.
To Isiolo
Baleso euros. While it doesn’t exchange Kenyan It all seems eerily reminiscent of the classic INFORMATION
Bongole
(283km) Wells Shillings, the Tourist Hotel will swap them Wild West. Yare Camel Club & Camp (p426) can ex-
Gof
for Ethiopian Birr (10KSh to Birr1). Maralal has gained an international change travellers cheques, but at low rates.
3 Bongole There are a few simple places to stay and reputation for its fantastically frenetic Inter- Maralal Safari Lodge (p426) changes travel-
eat on both sides of the border: Sherif Guest national Camel Derby (see p426) and a visit lers cheques outside banking hours, also at
SLEEPING
Lake Paradise Special Campsite..........1 A2 House (s/tw with shared bathroom KSh150/200) and over its duration is truly unforgettable. Less low rates.
Marsabit Lodge..................................2 B2 Baghdad Hotel II (meals KSh80-150) fly the Kenyan
flag, while the Tourist Hotel (s with shared toilet MARALAL 0 200 m
ὈὈ
0 0.1 miles
Birr15) and Ethio-Kenya (breakfast Birr3-6) keep up
from the escarpment above are simply the Ethiopian end. A B C D
stunning. A bus leaves daily for Marsabit (KSh600,
Although there’s nothing except lake 8½ hours) and Isiolo (KSh1200, 17 hours)
water and firewood, the picturesque Lake at 9.30am. Trucks servicing the same des- 1
Council 1
Paradise Special Campsite (adult/child US$10/5, plus set- tinations pick up passengers near the main Offices
up fee KSh5000) is easily the best place to stay in intersection. Drivers should note that petrol
3
the park. Thanks to roaming buffaloes and on the Ethiopian side of Moyale is half the C77
Matatu 10
elephants, a ranger must be present when cost of that in Kenya. To Maralal Safari
Police
Station
12 Market Booking
Office
Main
Roundabout
you camp here. Lodge (1km); Lesiolo
(26km); Baragoi (98km);
9
The Marsabit Lodge (%0735-555747; s/tw/tr MARALAL TO TURKANA’S EASTERN South Horr (150km);
Lake Turkana (216km);
13
11
incl breakfast KSh5500/5900/6950) has long shingle- SHORE Loyangalani (240km)
C77
8
6 4
roofed bungalows around the Gof Sokorte With vibrant Samburu and Turkana tribes, Playing
Field
Dika lake, and offers fine views. Even with treks along lush cliffs dropping from the 2
the location, the spartan rooms are over- Loroghi Plateau, desert camel safaris, mes-
priced. With its gargantuan fireplace and merising barren volcanic landscapes and the
comfy chairs, the lounge is the lodge’s most north’s jade jewel, Lake Turkana, this region
redeeming feature. of northern Kenya has it all. 2
5
Despite it being a short walk to the park The 130km drive from Nyahururu to Ma- To Yare Camel Club & Camp (3km); 7
gate from town, you need your own 4WD ralal along the C77 is bumpy but straight- Wamba (118km); Rumuruti (126km);
Nyahururu (149km); Isiolo (198km)
to explore. In the wet season you may find forward, despite the tarmac running out
INFORMATION EATING
some park roads closed. at Rumuruti (we hope you said goodbye, Kenya Commercial Bank.................1 C1 Hard Rock Café............................. 6 C2
because you won’t see it any time soon!). 3 Maralal Medical Clinic....................2 D3 Safari Hotel....................................7 C3
Post Office.....................................3 C1 Samburu Restaurant.......................8 C2 TRANSPORT
MOYALE Punctures on this route are common and the 4WD Matatus & Land Rover Taxis...11 C2
Let’s be honest, nobody comes to Moyale scenery is ummm…well, let’s just say that SLEEPING DRINKING BP Petrol Station...............................12 B1
Jamaru Hotel................................. 4 D2 Buffalo House Hotel.......................9 D2 Matatus...........................................13 C2
to see Moyale; people come because it’s once you’ve set eyes on the Jade Sea, you’ll Sunbird Guest House.....................5 D3 Paradiso Bar.................................10 D1 Truck Pick-up Area.........................(see 12)
the gateway to one of the world’s most have forgotten all about it.
Maralal
426 N O R T H E R N K E N YA • • M a r a l a l t o Tu r k a n a ’ s E a s t e r n S h o re www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N K E N YA • • M a r a l a l t o Tu r k a n a ’ s E a s t e r n S h o re 427
Kenya Commercial Bank Behind the market. Changes boozer in town. Another place to shoot some seemingly erupt from the horizon. Reaching
cash and travellers cheques. No ATM. MARALAL INTERNATIONAL CAMEL stick and down a Tusker is Paradiso Bar. The Baragoi itself is a bit of an anticlimax as the
Maralal Medical Clinic (hMon-Sat) DERBY bars at Yare Camel Club & Camp and Mar- dusty, diminutive town is clearly outdone
Post office Next to market. Inaugurated by Yare Safaris in 1990, the alal Safari Lodge are much nicer, but trans- by its surroundings.
annual Maralal International Camel Derby port back to town may pose a problem! Treks through the Suguta Valley to Lake
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES held in early August is one of the biggest Turkana are possible from Baragoi, and
Featuring some of Kenya’s most astound- events in Kenya, attracting riders and spec- GETTING THERE & AWAY there are several English-speaking guides
ing vistas, trekking the Loroghi Hills Cir- tators from the world’s four distant corners. Matatus serve Nyahururu (KSh300, three here to remind you! Make sure you get a
cuit takes a rewarding five days and covers The races are open to anyone and the ex- hours), Rumuruti (KSh250, 2½ hours) and good appraisal of the security situation be-
78km. This trek is detailed in Lonely tended after-parties at Yare Camel Club & Wamba (KSh350, 3½ hours) on a daily fore attempting this trek.
Planet’s Trekking in East Africa. Camp (left) are notorious – you’re likely to basis, usually in the mornings and early Be careful not to take photographs in
Yare Camel Club & Camp organises bump into some genuine characters here! afternoons. Reaching Isiolo involves over- town, as it’s supposedly forbidden and po-
guides and camels for independent camel Not interested in parties and just want nighting in Wamba to catch the early- lice are keen to enforce the rule.
safaris in the region. Self-catered day/ morning southbound matatu. There are no The Mt Ngiro General Shop (C77 Hwy) sells
K E N YA
some fast-moving camel action? Then you’ll
K E N YA
overnight trips cost US$20/35 per person. be overjoyed that the derby’s first race is direct services to Nairobi; take a matatu or pricey petrol from the barrel, and the Morn-
Fully catered overnight trips are US$95. an amateur event, open to all comers. Ante bus (KSh300, three hours) to Nyahururu and ing Star Guest House (C77 Hwy; s/tw with shared bath-
Surrounding town is the Maralal National up KSh1500 for your entry and KSh2500 for transfer there. room KSh200/400) provides a decent place for
Sanctuary, home to zebras, impalas, hyenas, your slobbering steed and get racing. It’s a During the dry season a few 4WD mata- a night’s kip. Just south of the post office,
elephants, elands, buffaloes and other var- butt-jarring 11km journey. Don’t even start tus and Land Rover taxis head north weekly it offers secure parking, decent rooms and
ieties of plains wildlife, which you can see complaining about your glowing cheeks – to Baragoi (KSh300, three hours). If you’re mosquito nets. Fine dining (spot blatant
for free from the road leading into Maralal the professional riders cover 42km! intending to head to Lake Turkana, you’ll overstatement) is found at Al-Mukaram Hotel
from the south. For further information contact Yare have to wait a few days to a week for a truck (C77 Hwy; meals KSh60).
Safaris (%065-62295; [email protected]; (KSh800 to KSh1000, nine to 12 hours). To Those with bulging wallets can stay at
SLEEPING PO Box 63006, Nairobi) or Yare Camel Club & shorten your wait, inquire around the town’s Desert Rose (%0722-638774; www.desertrosekenya.com;
Sunbird Guest House (%62015; PO Box 74, Maralal; Camp in Maralal. petrol stations and its transport hub (the main full board incl activities low season s/d US$400/600, high season
s/tw/d KSh350/450/600) Easily the best budget roundabout) when you arrive instead of wait- US$450/700; s), a stunning ecolodge nestled on
option in town, this shiny and friendly ing until you want to leave. While breaking the southern slopes of Ol Donyo Nyiro. Each
new place has quiet, clean and comfortable which nearly justifies paying KSh125 for a the truck journey in Baragoi or South Horr cottage is truly unique and blends into the
rooms with nice linen, mosquito nets, spark- beer there. The gate is 1km west of the BP may seem like a good idea, remember that stunning natural surrounds. The Desert Rose
ling bathrooms, 24-hour hot water, power petrol station along the road to Baragoi. you may have to wait there for a week before turn-off is 18km north of Baragoi, marked by
points, toilet paper and secure parking. another truck trundles through. a gas canister.
Yare Camel Club & Camp (%62295; yare@africa EATING Most transport leaves from the main The dirt track from Maralal to Baragoi
online.co.ke; camping KSh200, s/tw/tr US$20/28/35) This Hard Rock Café (meals KSh60-170) While the Hard roundabout, while trucks usually pick up is much improved but still very rocky in
place is justifiably popular with campers Rock Café chain would cringe at its name’s passengers at the BP petrol station (C77 Hwy). places. The drive takes between 2½ and four
and sits on the Isiolo–Nyahururu road, 3km use, this Somali-run restaurant is the town’s The BP petrol station is the most reliable. hours.
south of town. You can stay in cosy wooden best restaurant. Enjoy its chapo-fry (spiced Petrol is KSh10 more per litre here than in
bandas, which boast bathrooms, towels and beef with chapatti and side plate of diced Nyahururu, but cheaper than you’ll find it Approaching the Lake
free hot-water buckets for bathing. Yare’s fa- tomatoes, onions and beans) while listening further north. The road between Baragoi and South Horr,
cilities include a well-stocked bar and lounge, to Rick Astley, and being peered over by the next town along, is in reasonable shape
a restaurant, nyama choma on Wednesday mugs of the Spice Girls and 2Pac. Baragoi and consists of compacted sand and bumpy
and Saturday, and a games room. Samburu Restaurant (meals KSh80-200) A popu- The long descent off the Loroghi Plateau to- rocky sections. Almost 23km north of South
Jamaru Hotel (%62093; s/tw with shared bathroom lar place, with the menu sporting the usual wards Baragoi serves up some sweet vistas, Horr, when the valley opens to the northern
KSh200/350, s/tw/tr with private bathroom KSh300/600/ suspects and decent curries. but none can compare with the sheer mag- plains, you’ll see massive Mt Kulal in the
1000) Behind this fancy façade lurk sim- Safari Hotel (meals KSh80-150) If the lighting nitude of Lesiolo or World’s View, which distance and Devil’s Hand, a large rock out-
ple rooms with interesting but functional and wallpaper don’t ruin your appetite, perches atop an escarpment at the plat- crop resembling a fist, to your immediate
plumbing, as well as some cheaper options you’ll get a good Kenyan meal here. eau’s dramatic end, offering an outrageous right. Just north is the eastern turn-off to
with less-pleasant shared facilities. 120km panoramic view over the Rift Valley Marsabit via Kargi, so if you’re heading for
Maralal Safari Lodge (%62220, Nairobi %020- DRINKING and serrated Tiati Hills. Lesiolo is part of the Turkana keep left. If you get mixed up, just
211124; full board s/d Oct-Jun US$120/185, Jul-Sep & Christ- Some years ago the district commissioner Malasso Ecotourism Project and a viewing remember that Mt Kulal on your right is
mas US$150/225; s) Large dark wooden chalets, ordered Maralal’s discos closed due to the fee (adult/child US$5/3) is now charged – good and that Mt Kulal on your left is very,
with vaulted ceilings, private balconies and region’s insecurity. Apparently no-one here pricey, but worth every penny! very bad (unless, of course, you’re heading
a small loft for children to snooze, call this has thought of fighting for their right to When you reach the foot of the plateau, to Marsabit!).
lodge home. It’s extremely cosy, but we’d party, as this order is still in place. the road ahead is laid out before you; it Further north, the scrub desert suddenly
expect more for this price. The best feature Buffalo House Hotel, with a pool table meanders across the acacia-dotted plains scatters and you’ll be greeted by vast volcanic
is the wildlife water hole fronting the bar, out the back, is probably the most popular before disappearing into jagged hills that armies of shimmering bowling ball–size
428 N O R T H E R N K E N YA • • M a r a l a l t o Tu r k a n a ’ s E a s t e r n S h o re www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N K E N YA • • M a r i c h t o Tu r k a n a ’ s W e s t e r n S h o re 429
boulders, cinder cones and reddish-purple In calm weather a speedboat can reach (KSh1000, 10 to 12 hours) from Marsabit. with stones. When visiting these sites, never
hues – if they could talk they’d welcome the island in 30 minutes and circumnavigate Trucks heading in any other direction are remove any fossils as future research may
you to Mt Kulal’s shattered lava fields. If it in another hour. If winds crop up, trip even more rare. be compromised.
this arresting and barren Martian landscape times can easily double. You can hire a boat If you’re travelling in your own vehicle, The National Museums of Kenya (NMK)
doesn’t take your breath away, the first sight from Oasis Lodge (per hour KSh2500) or you have two options to reach Marsabit: maintains a small museum and Koobi Fora
of the sparkling Jade Sea a few kilometres from a local, but always check the vessel’s continue northeast from Loyangalani across (www.kfrp.com), a research base that is often
north certainly will. seaworthiness and the impending weather. the dark stones of the Chalbi Desert towards home to permanent researchers, visiting
As you descend to the lake, South Island Dominating Lake Turkana’s eastern North Horr, or head 67km south towards scientists and students. It’s usually possible
stands proudly before you, while Teleki Vol- horizon, Mt Kulal’s forested volcanic flanks South Horr and take the eastern turn-off to sleep in one of the base’s bandas (per person
cano’s geometrically perfect cone lurks on offer some hiking possibilities. No matter near Devil’s Hand (see p427). The 270km KSh1000) or to pitch a tent in the KWS camp
Turkana’s southern shore. Before you jump what local guides tell you, trekking up to Chalbi route (seven to eight hours) is OK in sites (adult/child US$8/5).
in the water, remember that Turkana has a the summit (2293m) from Loyangalani in the dry season but can be treacherous after It’s best to come in July and August, when
large crocodile population. a day isn’t feasible. Plan on several days rain. Make sure you’re carrying adequate the ferocious temperatures break slightly
for a return trip, or part with substantial food and water with your spare tyres, com- and when activity increases at Koobi Fora.
K E N YA
K E N YA
Loyangalani sums of cash (KSh8000 to KSh12,000) for pass and fuel when you set out. It’s also wise Contact both KWS ([email protected]; PO Box 219, Lod-
An oasis of doum palms, natural springs and a lift up Mt Kulal to the villages of Arapal to ask for directions every chance you get, war) and NMK (%020-3742131; www.museums.or.ke;
vivid Turkana tribespeople, Loyangalani is or Gatab. From there you can head for the otherwise it’s easy to take the wrong track PO Box 40658, Nairobi) before venturing in this
one of northern Kenya’s most fascinating summit and spend a long day (eight to 10 and not realise until hours later. The 241km direction.
places. It overlooks Lake Turkana and is sur- hours) hiking back down to Loyangalani. southern route (six to seven hours) via In the dry season it’s a tricky seven-hour
rounded by small ridges of pillow lava (evi- The volcano’s view over Lake Turkana and Devil’s Hand, the Karoli Desert and Kargi drive north from Loyangalani to Sibiloi.
dence that this area used to be underwater) Chalbi Desert are sublime. is composed of compacted sands and is less Make sure you get precise directions from
peppered with Turkana families’ traditional difficult in the rainy season. locals in Loyangalani, as well as from the
stick and palm dwellings. Other than the post SLEEPING & EATING For those with money to burn, Oasis KWS and NMK, before heading north. In the
office and the Catholic mission (which oc- Palm Shade Camp (camping KSh350, s/tw rondavel Lodge can arrange air transport and hires wet season your only real option is to fly.
casionally sells petrol at exorbitant prices), with shared bathroom KSh500/1000) Drop your tent vehicles for KSh5000 per day plus KSh100
there’s little in the way of services. on some grass beneath acacias and doum per kilometre. MARICH TO TURKANA’S WESTERN
The El-Molo tribe, one of Africa’s smallest, palms or crash in the simple domed ron- SHORE
lives on the lakeshore just north of here in davels. The huts have simple wooden beds Sibiloi National Park Despite boasting some of northern Kenya’s
the villages of Layeni and Komote. Although with foam mattresses, and unique walls A Unesco World Heritage Site and prob- greatest attributes, like copious kilometres
outwardly similar to the Turkana, the El- with meshed cutouts that let light and ably Kenya’s most remote national park (www of Jade Sea shoreline, striking volcanic land-
Molo are linguistically linked to the Somali heavenly evening breezes in. Throw in the .sibiloi.com; adult/child US$15/5), Sibiloi is located scapes and vivid Turkana tribes, this remote
and Rendille. Unfortunately the last speaker town’s best toilets and showers, a cooking far up the eastern shore of Lake Turkana corner of the country has seen relatively few
of their traditional language died before the shelter and electricity until 10pm, and your and covers an area of 1570 sq km. It was visitors. With security on the mend there’s
turn of the millennium. decision is easy. here that Dr Richard Leakey discovered the now a unique opportunity for independent
As with the Maasai, tourism has wrought Oasis Lodge (%020-503267; willtravel@swiftkenya skull of a Homo habilis believed to be 2½ travellers to explore here, thanks to regu-
inevitable changes in the El-Molo and Tur- .com; full board s/tw US$150/200; s) This overpriced million years old, and where others have lar public transport currently covering the
kana peoples’ lifestyles and many travellers lodge offers simple bungalows with dated unearthed evidence of Homo erectus. Des- breadth of the region. The only downside
feel that the tribal issue has been overly bathrooms. The food, spring-fed swimming pite the area’s fascinating prehistory, fossil is that you can’t get your vehicle across the
commercialised. You’ll certainly pay hand- pools (KSh300 for nonguests) and view from sites and wonderful arid ecosystem, the dif- lake or into Sudan, which makes for a lot of
somely for taking any photographs. the open-air bar are its best assets. ficulties involved in getting this far north backtracking.
New Saalama Hotel (meals KSh50-110) Although tend to discourage visitors, which is a real
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES it lacks any signage (ask a local to point it shame. It seems slightly ironic that the so- Marich
Opened as a public reserve in 1983 and out), this little shack with wooden benches, called ‘Cradle of Mankind’ is now almost The spectacular descent from Marich Pass
made a World Heritage Site by Unesco in crooked tables and candlelight is the best entirely unpopulated. through the lush, cultivated Cherangani
1997, the 39-sq-km volcanic island of South place for a local meal. It’s usually out of food Today it’s possible to see fossils of a giant Hills leads to arid surroundings, with saisol
Island National Park (adult/child US$15/5) is com- soon after sunset. tortoise that lived three million years ago, plants, cactus trees and acacias lining both
pletely barren and uninhabited apart from Cold Drink Hotel (meals KSh50-110) Run by a an ancient species of crocodile (Euthecodon the road and the chocolate-brown Morun
large populations of crocodiles, poisonous local Somali family, this hotel serves Ken- brumpti) that grew up to 15m long, and River. Just north, the minuscule village of
snakes and feral goats. Spending the night yan dishes and a version of Ethiopian injera a big-tusked behemoth (Elephas recki), a Marich, near the A1’s junction with the B4
at a special camp site (adult/child US$8/5) makes (a thin, spongy pancake). Its smoky chai is predecessor of today’s elephant. The petri- Kerio Valley road, marks your entrance into
for an even more eerie trip. All the sites lack worth skipping. fied forest south of these sites is evidence northern Kenya.
water, firewood (there are no trees on the that the area was lush and densely forested
island) and toilets. The southern site is the GETTING THERE & AWAY seven million years ago. Every year the rains SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
most sheltered from the wind, so your tent There are one or two trucks a week that and the wind expose more fossils, so many Although the northern plains may beckon,
is less likely to take flight here. stop in Loyangalani en route to Maralal that the most impressive are simply ringed it’s worth leashing the 4WD and heading
430 N O R T H E R N K E N YA • • M a r i c h t o Tu r k a n a ’ s W e s t e r n S h o re www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N K E N YA • • M a r i c h t o Tu r k a n a ’ s W e s t e r n S h o re 431
into the hills for some eye-popping and leg- 1425/1900, with private bathroom KSh1100/1500/2250/ 60km to Lodwar, where patches outnumber SLEEPING
loving trekking action. Mt Sekerr (3326m) is 3000) The only reasonable accommodation potholes and driving is straightforward. Unless you’re cold-blooded and thick-
a few kilometres northwest of Marich and between Marich and Lokichar is at this If security takes a turn for the worse, the skinned, it’s worth spending more for a room
can be climbed comfortably in a three-day centre, which is well signposted just north police checkpoint just north of Marich may with a fan and mosquito net. The cheaper
round trip via the agricultural plots of the of Marich and the A1’s junction with the again start requiring vehicles to travel in places are hellishly hot and the mosquitoes
Pokot tribe, passing through forest and open B4. Essentially a residential facility for visit- convoy to Lodwar. Another thing to keep can be something fierce.
moors. The views from the top are magnifi- ing student groups, it’s also a great place an eye out for on this stretch are the flash Nawoitorong Guest House (%21208; camping
cent in clear weather. for independent travellers to base their floods that periodically fill the odd dry river KSh200, s/tw with shared bathroom KSh400/600, s/tw cot-
The Marich Pass Field Studies Centre adventures. The centre occupies a beauti- bed with churning chocolate milk – be pa- tages from KSh700/900) Built entirely out of local
(below) offers English-speaking Pokot and ful site alongside the Morun River, and is tient and remember that the water can drop materials and run by a local women’s group,
Turkana guides for half-day (KSh450), full- surrounded by dense bush and woodland. as quickly as it rose. Nawoitorong is an excellent option, and the
day (KSh550) and overnight (KSh1000) The birdlife here is prolific, monkeys and only one for campers. Thatched roofs al-
treks. The guides can also help you explore baboons have the run of the place, and wart- Lodwar leviate the need for fans and all rooms have
the numerous small caves dotted around the hogs, buffaloes, antelopes and elephants are %054 mosquito nets. There’s a pleasant restaurant,
K E N YA
K E N YA
hills, most of which have special significance all occasional visitors. Facilities include a se- Besides Lokichoggio near the Sudan bor- and the shared-bathroom prices include
for the local Pokot. cure camp site, with drinking water, toilets, der, Lodwar is the only town of any size breakfast. The one-bedroom Ekaato cottages
If you’d rather explore with your vehicle, showers and firewood, as well as dorm beds in the northwest (although that’s not say- are cheap, but not nearly as charming as the
you can head southeast from Marich past and simple, comfortable bandas. There’s a ing much). Barren volcanic hills skirted by two-bedroom Nadoua cottage, which also
Sigor and check out the Elgeyo Escarpment, restaurant (meals KSh220 to KSh350) with traditional Turkana dwellings sit north of has a cooking area. The Napekitoi cottage is
which rises above the Kerio Valley to more vegetarian options, but all meals should town and make for impressive early morn- perfect for families.
than 1830m in places, and offers spectacu- be ordered in advance. It also offers self- ing sunrise spots. Lodwar has outgrown Hotel Splash (%21099; PO Box 297, Lodwar; s
lar views and waterfalls. At the foot of the catering facilities, though there are few its days as just an isolated administrative KSh450) Well signposted and west of the main
escarpment (and accessible by matatu) is supplies in the area. Besides guides for outpost of the Northern Frontier District, crossroads, Hotel Splash has great, small-
Lomut and its fascinating Saturday market, trekking, it offers guided walks discussing and has now become the major service cen- ish singles with fans, mosquito nets, sitting
which brings together the pastoral Pokot ethnobotany (KSh500) and birds (KSh600) tre and tourist hub for the whole region. chairs, reading lamps and decent bathrooms.
from the northern plains and the farming for groups of up to five people. If you’re visiting Lake Turkana, you’ll find The foam mattresses are pleasantly firm and
Pokot from the southern hills. it convenient to stay here for at least one there’s secure parking to boot.
About 15km north of Marich along the GETTING THERE & AWAY night. Turkwel Lodge (%21099; s/tw KSh350/700, cottages
A1 Hwy to Lokichar is the turn-off for Na- The easiest way to get to Marich is from s/d KSh800/1350) Turkwel offers spacious rooms
solot National Reserve (admission adult/child US$15/5) Kitale via Makutano and Marich Pass on INFORMATION containing fans and mosquito nets, but lacks
and Turkwel Gorge (admission incl with Nasolot NR). the oh-so-scenic A1 Hwy, which is often The Kenya Commercial Bank (no ATM) the crisp, clean feel of the Splash. Some beds
Although the reserve is home to elephants, described as Kenya’s most spectacular Tar- changes cash and charges 1% commission are a bit of an Ikea experiment gone horribly
lesser kudus, lions and leopards, you’ll likely mac road. The buses plying the A1 between (minimum KSh250) for travellers cheques. wrong – not so comfy. There’s secure park-
only spot the diminutive dik-diks bounding Kitale and Lodwar can drop you anywhere The post office has Lodwar’s only Internet ing, and quiet, roomy cottages at the rear.
by the roadside. The main attraction is the along the route, whether at Marich, the field connection.
gorge itself, with towering rock walls and studies centre or at the turn-off to Nasolot EATING
plenty of pretty precipices. The imposing National Reserve. You may be asked to pay SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Turkwel Hotel (meals KSh60-210) Its green lentil
hydroelectric dam sits about 23km from the full fare to Lodwar (KSh700), but a smile There’s little to do in the town itself, but the curry is particularly good, but get your order
the reserve gate, which is 6km off the A1. and some patient negotiating should reduce atmosphere is not altogether unpleasant if in about three hours early, and don’t forget
Those without vehicles are allowed to hike the cost. you can stand the heat, and just listening to to order the chapatis at the same time! Its
in the park with an escort (free with reserve The other route is extremely rough (4WD the garrulous locals is entertainment in itself. local dishes require less waiting and are some
admission). With security back under con- only), and approaches Marich along the B4 The small market is a good place to watch of the best in town.
trol, the KWS is hoping to soon reopen the from Lake Baringo through the Kito Pass women weaving baskets, and there’s an end- Nawoitorong Guest House (meals KSh160-225)
camp sites. and across the Kerio Valley to Tot; it’s tough less stream of Turkana hawkers who wander Burgers and toasted sandwiches join local
Just when you’re getting to like the feel going with little in the way of signs, but it around town selling the usual souvenirs. curries and various meaty fries on its menu.
of the scrub desert en route to Lokichar, a allows you to visit the hot waterfalls at Ka- You’re bound to be approached by several Africana Silent Lodge (meals KSh40-110) A popu-
sudden and all-too-brief burst of green and pedo. From Tot, the track skirts the north- sharp young businessmen calling themselves lar eatery with locals for cheap Kenyan fare
heavenly cool envelop the road and act as ern face of the Cherangani Hills and may be the Lodwar Tour Guides Association. They’ll and fried fish.
a stark reminder of the lushness you’ve left impassable after heavy rain. offer to escort you to Lake Turkana, into If you’re self-catering, there’s a well-
behind. Between Marich and Lokichar the A1 is the hills and local communities, or even to stocked Naipa Supermarket next to the
a bumpy mess of corrugated dirt and lonely Central Island National Park. They try hard Kobil petrol station.
SLEEPING & EATING islands of Tarmac. The first 40km north to please and are a useful source of informa-
Marich Pass Field Studies Centre (www.gg.rhul.ac.uk of Lokichar is better, but you’ll still spend tion, although their prices are a bit steep for GETTING THERE & AWAY
/MarichPass; PO Box 564, Kapenguria; camping KSh300, more time on the shoulder than on the the services provided – KSh1500 just for a Several companies, including Kenya Witness,
dm KSh350, s/tw/tr/q with shared bathroom KSh700/950/ road. The opposite is true for the remaining guide to the lake! have daily buses to Kitale (KSh500, 8½ hours)
432 N O R T H E R N K E N YA • • M a r i c h t o Tu r k a n a ’ s W e s t e r n S h o re www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K E N YA D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n 433
each night at 7.30pm (most services pick up lokol road. The gravels are easy to follow Central Island National Park slopes that mark the valley’s western side,
passengers near the New Salama Hotel), until they suddenly peter out and you’re Rising from the depths of Lake Turkana you’ll see a dramatic and seemingly fictitious
while erratic matatus serve Kalokol (KSh150, faced with a fork in the road – stay left. The and climbing 170m above its surface is the horizon of sharp mountainous peaks beyond
one hour) and Lokichoggio (KSh500, three rest of the way is a mix of gravel, deep sand Central Island Volcano, which was last seen the numerous refugee camps at Kakuma. In
hours). and dirt tracks (4WD only), which can turn belching molten sulphur and steam just over reality your eyes are making mountains out
While UN vehicles were still travelling in into a muddy nightmare in the wet season. three decades ago. Today the island is quiet, of mole hills, as the seemingly large peaks
armed convoys along the sublimely sealed If you don’t have your own vehicle, you but its stormy volcanic history is told by are only 100m- to 200m-high volcanic cin-
210km stretch of Tarmac to Lokichoggio at can usually arrange a 4WD in Lodwar to the numerous craters scarring its weathered der cones.
the time of research, the security situation drop you off and pick you up at a predeter- façade. Several craters have coalesced to Along the entire route you’ll encounter
had improved enough that local trucks and mined time later for about KSh4500. form two sizeable lakes that are almost 1km rather marvellous Turkana people in strik-
matatus weren’t feeling the need to travel wide and 80m deep. ing tribal attire, either walking the roadside,
in convoy or to take armed escorts. Always Ferguson’s Gulf Both a national park (adult/child US$15/5) and selling sacks of charcoal or resting in the
check with locals and police to ascertain the While a more accessible part of Lake Tur- Unesco World Heritage Site, Central Island shade of lonely trees. Your steady gaze at
latest security situation before travelling on kana than Eliye Springs, Ferguson’s Gulf has is an intriguing place to visit and the view these colourful souls will only be broken by
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this road. none of its southern neighbour’s tropical atop the cinder cones is well worth the short the odd termite mound mystifyingly giving
Drivers will find several petrol stations charm. Fishing boats in various states of dis- scramble. But no matter how temping, stay you the middle finger.
here, though it’s almost KSh20 more per repair litter its grubby western beach and a clear of the lakes as the island is famous for its Despite being backed by the impressive
litre than in Kitale. definite feeling of bleakness pervades. The 14,000 or so Nile crocodiles, some of which Mogila Range, Lokichoggio itself is rather
gulf’s eastern shore (accessible by boat only) are massive in proportion! Like Ferguson’s unattractive. However, what it lacks in looks
Eliye Springs is just as desolate, but has an inexplicably Gulf, the island boasts countless numbers of it makes up for in aid activity, with the World
Spring water percolates out of crumbling attractive air about it. migratory birds in March and April. Food Program (WFP), UN and other NGOs
bluffs and brings life to this remote sandy Birdlife is prolific, particularly in March Camping (adult/child US$8/5) is possible and basing their Sudanese operations here.
shore of Lake Turkana, some 66km north- and April, when thousands of European unlike South Island National Park, there are Lokichoggio has a post office, but no
east of Lodwar by road. Growing from the migratory birds stop here on their way trees to tie your tent to. However, there’s banks. The need to house NGO workers has
moist sloping sands are oodles of doum north. There are also hippos and croco- no water available or any other facilities, so resulted in some pretty plush accommoda-
palms that give this usually barren envi- diles (and bilharzia), so seek local advice come prepared. tion options being added to the mix; Track-
ronment a downright tropical feel, albeit before diving in. Hiring a boat from Ferguson’s Gulf is mark Camp (%054-32245; [email protected]; full
incongruous. Down on the slippery shore If you’re planning on visiting Central the only real option to get here. Depend- board tents s US$50, bandas s/d US$55/80; ais) is
children play in the lake’s warm waters, Island National Park (opposite) or Sibiloi ing on what you drive up in, locals can ask an absolute haven despite the junkie name,
while Central Island lurks magically on the National Park (p429), this is the best place anywhere from KSh10,000 to KSh50,000 while Makuti Bar (%0722-257262; A1 Hwy; d with
distant horizon. These lake views are almost to arrange a boat. for the trip. A fair price is KSh6000 for a shared bathroom KSh400-500) is the only reasonable
as spellbinding as the stars that occupy the Set on the eastern shore, Lake Turkana Lodge motorboat – don’t even think about being budget option in town.
dark night sky. (%0722-703666; [email protected]; camping US$10, cheap and taking a sailboat! The 10km trip Petrol is readily available and costs KSh10
On arrival you’ll encounter an instant s/tw US$25/40) is the only official accommoda- and sudden squalls that terrorize the lake’s less per litre than in Lodwar. Road condi-
small crowd of colourful Turkana women tion in the area. Sixteen large timber cabins, waters aren’t to be taken lightly, so ensure tions and transport options between Loki-
selling trinkets, ranging from bracelets and each with their own bathroom and scenic the craft is sound before boarding. choggio and Lodwar are discussed on p431.
fish-backbone necklaces to fossilised hippo veranda, provide sleeping quarters, but light- The border with Sudan was closed at the
teeth. As only a few vehicles visit each week, ing is limited at best – bring a torch! The LOKICHOGGIO time of writing – check for updates at Lod-
it’s a real buyer’s market and prices are ab- skeleton staff can provide meals (with ad- Although the A1 Hwy from Lodwar to Loki- war’s military post.
surdly low. It’s worth a look because the vance warning) or for a small fee you can choggio via the UN refugee camps at Kakuma
same items in Lodwar cost much more, de-
spite most of them being made here!
Beneath the bluff the skeleton of an old
use the kitchen. The bar is an excellent place
to absorb the scenery, and is usually well
stocked with beer, water and soft drink. Boat
has been off limits to everyone but armed aid
convoys for the last several years, improved
security has meant that the odd intrepid trav-
KENYA DIRECTORY
beach resort sits half eaten by its surroundings transfers across the gulf are an additional eller is now able to taste this remote north- ACCOMMODATION
and makes for an interesting place to drop US$10. west corner of Kenya. Remember that it’s Kenya has a good range of accommodation
your tent. Locals now manage the leftovers Ferguson’s Gulf is accessed from the vil- imperative to check with locals, NGOs and options, from basic cubicle hotels overlook-
and charge KSh200 for camping and KSh250 lage of Kalokol, which is reachable by matatu police in Lodwar before heading off. ing city bus stands to luxury tented camps
for sleeping beneath one of the remaining from Lodwar along a good 75km stretch of The perfect Tarmac between Lodwar and hidden away in the national parks. There are
thatched roofs. Besides the spring water there Tarmac. From Kalokol, follow the Tarmac Lokichoggio is almost a sight in itself – sim- also all kinds of camp sites, budget tented
are no facilities, so you’ll have to be entirely north for a few kilometres before turning ply transcendent! As you head northwest camps, simple bandas (often wooden huts)
self-sufficient. Note that more than the odd left onto the dirt road next to the fading Ital- from Lodwar, you’ll wind through some and cottages scattered around the parks and
scorpion and carpet viper also call this place ian fishing project sign. This leads towards rocky bluffs before dropping into a vast val- rural areas.
home, so shoes are a good idea! a substantial building before veering to the ley resembling a lush lawn in wet season and During the low season many companies
The turn-off for Eliye Springs is sign- right and dropping you in the middle of the a white sea during drier periods. After pass- offer excellent deals on accommodation on
posted about halfway along the Lodwar–Ka- gulf’s fishing fleet. ing through the Pelekech Range’s stratified the coast and in the main wildlife parks,
434 K E N YA D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K E N YA D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s 435
often working with airlines to create pack- the marine reserves at Malindi and Shimoni. people who stay in them. As well as the
ages aimed at the local and expat market. PRACTICALITIES Some are wooden huts, some are thatched top-end Western companies, there are a
The website of Let’s Go Travel (www.lets-go-travel Major newspapers and magazines in stone huts and some are small brick bun- number of small Kenyan chains offering
.net) displays almost all the major hotels and Kenya include the Daily Nation, the East galows with solar-powered lights; facilities reliable standards across a handful of prop-
lodges in Kenya, giving price ranges and African Standard, the East African, the range from basic dorms and squat toilets to erties in particular towns or regions, and
descriptions, while www.kenyalastminute. Weekly Review and the New African. kitchens and hot water provided by wood- also plenty of private family-run establish-
com is a good port of call for discounted burning stoves. The cost varies from US$10 ments. At the top end of the scale are the
KBC Radio broadcasts across the coun-
bookings at some of the more expensive to US$20 per person. You’ll need to bring all-singing, all-dancing beach resorts along
try on various FM frequencies. Most
camps, lodges and hotels, particularly on all your own food, drinking water, bedding the coast.
major towns also have their own local
the coast. and firewood. Self-catering options are common on the
music and talkback stations, and the
Where appropriate we have split accom- coast, where they’re often the only mid-
BBC World Service is easily accessible.
modation options into budget, midrange Camping priced alternative to the top-end resorts,
and top-end categories for ease of reference. KBC and NTV are the main national There are many opportunities for camp- but not so much in other parts of the coun-
In general, a budget double room is defined TV stations; the CNN, Sky and BBC ing in Kenya and it is worth considering try. A few fancier places offer fully fitted
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as anything under KSh1000. Surprisingly, networks are also widely available on bringing a tent with you, although gear modern kitchens, but more often than not
bedding, towels and soap are almost always satellite or cable (DSTV). can also be hired in Nairobi and around the so-called kitchenettes will be a side
provided however much you pay. Kenyan televisual equipment uses the Mt Kenya. There are KWS camp sites in room with a small fridge and a rusty port-
In most of the country, midrange ac- standard European NSTC video system. just about every national park or reserve, able gas hob.
commodation falls between KSh1000 and Kenya uses the 240V system, with
though these are usually very basic. There Terms you will come across frequently in
KSh3500 for a double room; the major ex- will be a toilet block with a couple of pit Kenya include ‘self-contained’, which just
square three-pin sockets as used in the
ception to this is Nairobi, where you can toilets, and usually a water tap, but very means a room with its own private bath-
UK. Bring a universal adaptor if you
pay anything up to KSh6000 for the same little else. room, and ‘all-inclusive’, which differs in
need to charge your phone or run other
standard. In this bracket you’d usually ex- As well as these permanent camp sites, exact meaning from place to place – gener-
appliances.
pect breakfast, private bathroom, telephone KWS also runs so-called ‘special’ camp ally all meals, certain drinks and possibly
and good-size double beds with proper Kenya uses the metric system; distances sites in most national parks; these tempor- some activities should be included in the
mattresses; the more you pay the more fa- are in kilometres and most weights are ary sites have even fewer facilities than the room rate.
cilities you get. in kilograms. standard camps, but cost more because of
Everything over KSh3500 (or US$80 in their wilder locations and set-up costs. A Safari Lodges & Tented Camps
Nairobi) counts as top end, and what you reservation fee of KSh5000 per week is pay- Hidden away inside or on the edges of na-
get for your money varies enormously. applicable from April to June. On the coast, able on top of the relevant camping fee. tional parks are some fantastic safari lodges.
Once you hit the US$100 mark you should where things are much more seasonal, peak Private sites are few and far between, but These are usually visited as part of organ-
certainly count on breakfast, TV, phone, times tend to be July to August and Decem- they do offer more facilities and may hire ised safaris, and you’ll pay much more if you
air-con (on the coast), room service and ber to March. out tents if you don’t have your own. just turn up and ask for a room. Some of
toiletries as standard, and in the upper In this book, ‘high season’ refers to rates the older places trade heavily on their more
realms of the price range the extras can in- quoted for the longest peak period and ‘low Hostels glorious past, but the best places feature five-
clude anything from complimentary mini- season’ refers to the lowest prices available The only youth hostel affiliated with Hostel- star rooms, soaring makuti-roofed bars and
bars to casinos, Jacuzzis and a range of free out of season – any other variations should ling International (HI) is in Nairobi. It has restaurants overlooking waterholes full of
activities. fall between these two guidelines. good basic facilities and is a pleasant enough wildlife. Staying in at least one good safari
Although most midrange and top-end place to stay, but there are plenty of other lodge is recommended, if only to see how
places quote prices in US dollars, payment African Safari Club cheaper choices that are just as good. Other the other half live! Rates tend to come down
can be in local currency. Note that most Although it’s package tourism at its most places that call themselves ‘youth hostels’ a lot in the low season.
places have separate rates for residents, and developed, the UK-based African Safari Club are not members of HI and standards are As well as lodges, many parks contain
these are often much less than the nonresi- (UK %020-8466 0014; www.africansafariclub.com) has very variable. some fantastic luxury tented camps. These
dent rates. All prices quoted in this book are some splendid properties on the coast and places tend to occupy wonderfully remote
nonresident rates. in several of the national parks. Rates are Hotels & Guesthouses settings, usually by rivers or other natural
Many midrange and (especially) top-end typical for upmarket resorts, but are quoted Real budget hotels (often known as ‘board locations, and feature large, comfortable,
options also change their prices according as part of holiday packages so few offers are and lodgings’ to distinguish them from ‘ho- semipermanent safari tents with beds, fur-
to season, which can be confusing as very for less than a week or so. telis’, which are often only restaurants) are niture and bathrooms. The really exclusive
few places use exactly the same dates. In widely used as brothels and tend to be very properties occupy locations so isolated that
principal there are high, low and shoulder Bandas rundown. Security at these places is virtually guests fly in and out on charter planes.
seasons, but some hotels can divide their Bandas are basic huts and cottages, usually nonexistent; the better ones are set around
year into five or more distinct pricing pe- with some kind of kitchen and bathroom, courtyards and are clean if not exactly ACTIVITIES
riods! For lodges in the national parks, the that offer excellent value for budget travel- comfortable. Ballooning
norm is to charge high-season prices from lers. There are KWS bandas at Shimba Hills, Proper hotels and guesthouses come in Balloon trips in the wildlife parks are an ab-
July to March, with low-season prices only Tsavo West, Meru and Mt Elgon, and near as many different shapes and sizes as the solutely superb way of seeing the savanna
436 K E N YA D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K E N YA D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s 437
plains and, of course, the animals. The al- If you aren’t certified to dive, almost every Sailing Water Sports
most ghostly experience of floating silently hotel and resort on the coast can arrange an Kilifi, Mtwapa and Mombasa all have sailing Conditions on Kenya’s coast are ideal for
above the plains with a 360-degree view of open-water diving course. By international clubs, and smaller freshwater clubs can also windsurfing – offshore reefs protect the
everything beneath you is incomparable, and standards, they aren’t cheap – a five-day be found at Lake Naivasha and Lake Vic- waters, and winds are usually reasonably
it’s definitely worth saving up your shillings. PADI certification course will cost US$330 toria, which both have excellent windsurf- strong and constant. Most resort hotels
The flights typically set off at dawn and to US$450. Trips for certified divers, includ- ing and sailing. If you’re experienced, you south and north of Mombasa have sail-
go for about 1½ hours, after which you put ing two dives, go for around US$90. may pick up some crewing at the various boards for hire; rates vary from KSh400 to
down for a champagne breakfast. You’ll Nairobi Sailing & Sub Aqua Club (Map p296; yacht clubs, although you’ll need to become KSh800 per hour, and instruction is also
then be taken on a wildlife drive in a support %020-501250; Nairobi Dam, Langata Rd, Nairobi) of- a temporary member. While it isn’t hands- available. The sheltered channel between
vehicle and returned to your lodge. Flights fers British Sub Aqua Club diver training, on, a traditional dhow trip out of Lamu is Lamu and Manda Islands (p355) is one of
are currently available in the Masai Mara for and runs diving trips to the coast between an unforgettable experience. the best places to windsurf on the coast.
around US$390. September and April. As well as the ubiquitous windsurfing,
If you’re going to scuba dive on the coast, Trekking & Climbing diving and snorkelling on offer, some of
Cycling note that the only decompression chamber For proper mountain trekking Mt Kenya the larger resorts have water-sports centres
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An increasing number of companies offer in the region is in Mombasa and is run by (p376) is the obvious choice, but other giving visitors the opportunity to try out
cycling and mountain-biking trips in the Kenyan navy. promising and relatively unexplored walk- everything from jet skis and banana boats to
Kenya. Popular locations include the edge ing territory includes Mt Elgon (p413) on bodyboarding and traditional surfing. Kite-
of the Masai Mara, Hell’s Gate National Fishing the Ugandan border, the Cherangani Hills surfing is the latest craze to catch on, with
Park, the Central Highlands and the Kerio The Kenya Fisheries Department (Map pp280-1; and Kerio Valley (p410) east of Kitale, the tuition available. Diani Beach (p323), south
Valley. The best specialist operator is Bike %020-3742320; Museum Hill Rd, Nairobi), opposite upper reaches of the Aberdares (p373) of Mombasa, is the best place to go for all
Treks (%020-446371; www.biketreks.co.ke). National Museums of Kenya, operates a and even the Ngong Hills (p297), close to these activities.
Many local companies and places to stay number of fishing camps in various parts Nairobi.
around the country can arrange cheap bi- of the country. However, they’re difficult For more trekking information refer to White-Water Rafting
cycle hire, allowing you to cycle through to reach without your own vehicle and the relevant chapters in this book, get hold The Athi/Galana River has substantial rap-
places such as Arabuko Sokoke Forest Re- directions from the Fisheries Department, of a copy of Lonely Planet’s Trekking in East ids, chutes and waterfalls, and there are also
serve and Hell’s Gate National Park. Hire from which you’ll also need to get a fish- Africa or contact the Mountain Club of Kenya possibilities on the Tana River and Ewaso
usually costs KSh300 to KSh500 per day. ing licence. (MCK; %020-602330; www.mck.or.ke). Its website Ngiro River near Isiolo. The most excit-
See p451 for more information on cycling The deep-sea fishing on the coast is some has good advice on Mt Kenya, as well as on ing times for a white-water rafting trip are
in Kenya. For details of companies offering of the best in the world, and various private technical climbing and trekking through- from late October to mid-January and from
cycling safaris, see p94. companies and resorts in Shimoni, Diani out Kenya. early April to late July, when water levels
Beach, Watamu and Malindi can arrange Savage Wilderness Safaris (%020-521590; www are highest.
Diving & Snorkelling fishing trips. Boats cost US$250 to US$500 .whitewaterkenya.com; Sarit Centre, PO Box 1000, West- The people to talk to are Savage Wilderness
There is a string of marine national parks and can usually fit four or five anglers. lands, Nairobi) offers mountaineering trips to Safaris (% 020-521590; www.whitewaterkenya.com;
spread out along the coast between Shimoni You’ll pay the same price if it’s just you Mt Kenya and rock climbing at sites around Sarit Centre, PO Box 1000, Westlands, Nairobi), run by
and Malindi (see p309 for further details), in the boat. The season runs from August the country, as well as some more unusual the charismatic Mark Savage. Depending on
with plenty of opportunities for snorkelling to April. options, like caving. water levels, rafting trips of up to 450km
and scuba diving. The better marine parks For freshwater fishing, there are huge Nile
are those further away from Mombasa. The perch as big as a person in Lakes Victoria
Lamu archipelago (p356) also has some fine and Turkana, and some of the trout fishing RESPONSIBLE TREKKING
reefs off the islands of Manda Toto and around the Aberdares and Mt Kenya is quite Trekking can place great pressure on the environment in popular areas. You can help preserve
Kiwayu. exceptional. Fishing licences for Mt Kenya, the countryside by taking note of the following information.
There are distinct seasons for diving in Mt Elgon and Aberdare National Parks cost Carry out all your rubbish. Never ever bury it.
Kenya. October to March is the best time; KSh100 per day.
Where there’s no toilet, at lower elevations bury your faeces in a 15cm-deep hole (consider
during June, July and August it’s often im-
possible to dive due to poor visibility caused Gliding & Flying carrying a lightweight trowel for this purpose). At higher altitudes soil lacks the organisms
by heavy silt flow from some of the rivers The Gliding Club of Kenya (Map p374; %0733- needed to digest your faeces, so leave your waste in the open where UV rays will break it
on the coast. This doesn’t necessarily mean 760331; [email protected]; PO Box 926, Nyeri), down – spreading it facilitates the process. Always carry out your toilet paper (Ziplock bags
that no companies will take your money near Nyeri in the Central Highlands, offers are best). With either option make sure your faeces is at least 50m from any path, 100m from
for trips during this period! In 1997 there silent glides over the Aberdares. any watercourse and 200m from any building.
was a huge coral die-off as part of a warm- Flying lessons are easily arranged in Nai- Don’t use detergents or toothpaste within 50m of watercourses, even if they’re biodegradable.
ing of the ocean attributable to El Niño robi, and are much cheaper than in Europe, Stick to existing tracks and avoid short cuts that bypass a switchback. If you blaze a new trail
and global warming. However, the coral is the USA and Australasia. Contact the Aero
straight down a slope, it will erode the hillside with the next heavy rainfall.
slowly recovering, and there are thousands Club of East Africa (%020-608990) and Ninety-
of colourful fish species and even marine Nines Flying Club (%020-500277), both at Wil- Avoid removing plant life, as it keeps topsoil in place.
mammals. son Airport.
438 K E N YA D I R E C T O R Y • • B u s i n e s s H o u r s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K E N YA D I R E C T O R Y • • C u s t o m s 439
and three weeks’ duration can be arranged, CLIMATE private tuition, which costs US$4 per hour. Study materials too, of course, but cross-border problems
although most trips last one to four days and Kenya’s diverse geography means that tem- will cost around US$40. seem to account for most of the trouble in
cover up to 80km. The company also offers perature, rainfall and humidity vary widely, Language Center Ltd (Map p298; %020-570610; the north of the country.
a wide range of other land- and water-based but there are effectively four distinct zones. Ndemi Close, off Ngong Rd, PO Box 40661, Nairobi) This is Despite all the headlines, tourists are
activities, including kayaking and sailing. The hot, rainy plateau of western Kenya a good cheaper option; classes cost KSh250 per hour in a rarely targeted, as much of the violence and
has rainfall throughout the year, the heavi- group or KSh450 for one-on-one tuition, and you can study robberies take place far from the main tour-
BUSINESS HOURS est usually during April when as much as two, three or seven days a week. ist routes. Security has also improved con-
Most government offices are open Monday 200mm may be recorded, and the lowest in siderably in previously high-risk areas, such
to Friday from 8am or 8.30am to 1pm and January with an average of 40mm. Tempera- CUSTOMS as the Isiolo–Marsabit, Marsabit–Moyale
from 2pm to 5pm. Post offices, shops and tures range from a minimum of 14°C to 18°C There are strict laws about taking wildlife and Malindi–Lamu routes. However, you
services open roughly from 8am to 5pm to a maximum of 30°C to 36°C throughout products out of Kenya. The export of prod- should check the situation locally before tak-
Monday to Friday and 9am to noon on Sat- the year. ucts made from elephant, rhino and sea tur- ing these roads, or travelling between Garsen
urday. Internet cafés generally keep longer In the temperate Rift Valley and Central tle are prohibited. The collection of coral is and Garissa or Thika.
evening hours and may open on Sunday. Highlands, average temperatures vary from also not allowed. Ostrich eggs will also be The areas along the Sudanese and Ethi-
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Banking hours are 9am to 3pm Monday a minimum of 10°C to 14°C to a maximum confiscated unless you can prove you bought opian borders are very risky, although most
to Friday and 9am to 11am Saturday; some of 22°C to 28°C. Rainfall varies from a mini- them from a certified ostrich farm. Always visitors are very unlikely to have any reason
smaller branches may only open on the mum of 20mm in July to 200mm in April, check to see what permits are required, es- to go there in the first place.
first and last Saturday of the month. Bar- falling in essentially two seasons – March to pecially for the export of any plants, insects
clays Bank at Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta Inter- the beginning of June (the ‘long rains’) and and shells. Crime
national Airport is open 24 hours and is the October to the end of November (the ‘short The usual regulations apply to items you Even the staunchest Kenyan patriot will
only bank in the country open on a Sunday. rains’). Mt Kenya and the Aberdare moun- can bring into the country: 50 cigars, 200 cig- readily admit that the country’s biggest
Restaurant opening hours vary accord- tains are the country’s main water catch- arettes, 250g of pipe tobacco, 1L of alcohol, problem is crime. It ranges from petty snatch
ing to the type of establishment: as a rule ments, with falls of up to 3000mm per year. 250ml of perfume and other personal items, theft and mugging to violent armed robbery,
cafés and cheap Kenyan canteens will open In the semiarid bushlands of northern such as cameras, laptop computers and bin- carjacking and, of course, white-collar crime
at around 6am or 7am and close in the early and eastern Kenya, temperatures vary from oculars. Obscene publications are banned, and corruption. As a visitor you needn’t feel
evening, while more expensive ethnic restaur- highs of up to 40°C during the day to less which may extend to some lads’ magazines. paranoid, but you should always keep your
ants will be open from 11am to 10pm daily, than 20°C at night. July is usually the driest You are allowed to take up to KSh100,000 wits about you, particularly at night.
sometimes with a break between lunch and month, and November the wettest. The aver- out of the country. Perhaps the best advice for when you’re
dinner. Bars that don’t serve food are open age annual rainfall varies between 250mm walking around cities and towns is not to
from around 6pm until late, while nightclubs and 500mm. DANGERS & ANNOYANCES carry anything valuable with you. Most
open their doors around 9pm and can keep The consistently humid coast region has While Kenya is a safe destination in African hotels provide a safe or secure place for
going until 6am or later on weekends! rainfall averages from 20mm in February to terms, there are still plenty of pitfalls for valuables, although you should be cautious
In this book we have only given specific around 300mm in May. The average annual the unwary or inexperienced traveller, from of the security at some budget places. Cheap
opening hours where they differ signifi- rainfall is between 1000mm and 1250mm everyday irritations to more serious threats. digital watches and plastic sunglasses can be
cantly from these broad guidelines. (less in drought years). Average temperatures A little street sense goes a long way here, bought in Kenya for under KSh100 and you
vary little during the year, ranging from 22°C and getting the latest local information is won’t miss them if they get taken.
CHILDREN to 30°C. essential wherever you intend to travel. While pickpocketing and bag-snatching
Many parents regard Africa as just too dan- For the latest local weather forecasts online, are the most common crimes, armed mug-
gerous for travel with children, but it is pos- visit the Kenya Meteorological Office (www.meteo Banditry gings do occur in Nairobi and on the coast.
sible if you’re prepared to spend a little more .go.ke). Wars in Somalia, Sudan and Ethiopia have However, they usually happen at night or
and take comfort over adventure for the core all had their effect on the stability and safety in remote areas, so always take taxis after
of the trip. The coast is the best region to aim COURSES of northern and northeastern Kenya. AK-47s dark or along lonely dirt roads. Conversely,
for, with most resorts offering European- If you intend to spend considerable time have been flowing into the country for many snatch-and-run crimes happen more in
standard kids’ facilities and dedicated staff to in Kenya, learning Swahili is an excellent years, and the newspapers are filled with sto- crowds. If you suddenly feel there are too
take them off your hands once in a while. idea. The best language school is run by the ries of hold-ups, shoot-outs, cattle rustling many people around you, or think you are
Local attitudes towards children vary in Anglican Church of Kenya (ACK). Taking and general lawlessness. Bandits and poach- being followed, dive straight into a shop
Kenya just as they do in the West: scream- a language course (or any course) also en- ers infiltrating from Somalia have made the and ask for help.
ing babies on matatus elicit all the usual titles you to a ‘Pupils’ Pass’, an immigration northeast of the country particularly danger- In the event of a crime, you should report
sighs and tuttings, but usually kids will be permit allowing continuous stays of up to ous, and with the American ‘War on Terror’ it to the police, but this can be a real proced-
welcomed anywhere that’s not an exclu- 12 months. The following language schools shutting down the funding for many warring ure. You’ll need to get a police report if you
sively male preserve, especially by women offer courses: factions within Somalia, these problems are intend to make an insurance claim. In the
with families of their own. ACK Language & Orientation School (Map pp280-1; only going to get worse. event of a snatch theft, think twice before
For invaluable general advice on tak- %020-2723200; www.ackenya.org; Bishops Rd, Upper In the northwest, the main problem is yelling ‘Thief!’. It’s not unknown for people
ing the family abroad, see Lonely Planet’s Hill, PO Box 47429, Nairobi) Full-time courses (US$450) armed tribal wars and cattle rustling across to administer summary justice on the spot,
Travel with Children by Cathy Lanigan. last 14 weeks and take up five hours a day. More flexible is the Sudanese border. There are Kenyan shifta often with fatal results for the criminal.
440 K E N YA D I R E C T O R Y • • D i s a b l e d T r a v e l l e r s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K E N YA D I R E C T O R Y • • Fe s t i v a l & E v e n t s 441
wheel bearings, differential or something else Netherlands (%070-350 42 15; [email protected]; FESTIVALS & EVENTS
STREET KIDS has failed, and direct you to a nearby garage Niewe Parklaan 21, 2597 The Hague) Major events around Kenya include the
Nairobi in particular has huge problems where their friends will ‘fix’ the problem – South Africa (%012-362 2249; [email protected]; 302 following:
with street children, many of whom are for a substantial fee, of course. Brooks St, Menlo Park, 0081 Pretoria) Maulid Festival Falling in March or April for the next few
AIDS orphans, who trail foreigners around Sudan (%011-460386; Street 3Amarat, PO Box 8242, years, this annual celebration of the prophet Mohammed’s
asking for food or change. It’s up to you DISABLED TRAVELLERS Khartoum) birthday is a huge event in Lamu town, drawing hundreds
whether you give, but if you do, the word Travelling in Kenya is not easy for physic- Tanzania (%022-2112955; [email protected]; NIC Invest- of visitors (see p353).
will go around and you won’t get a mo- ally disabled people, but it’s not impossible. ment House, Samora Ave, PO Box 5231, Dar es Salaam) Tusker Safari Sevens (www.safarisevens.com) Inter-
ment’s peace. It’s also debatable how much Very few tourist companies and facilities are Uganda (%041-258235; Plot No 41, Nakasero Rd, PO national rugby tournament held every June near Nairobi
your donations will help, as the older boys geared for disabled travellers, and those that Box 5220, Kampala) (see p286).
operate like a minimafia, extorting money are tend to be restricted to the expensive UK (%020-7636 2371; www.kenyahighcommission.com; Kenya Music Festival (%020-2712964) The country’s
from the younger kids. hotels and lodges. However, if you’re polite 45 Portland Place, London W1N 4AS) longest-running music festival, held over 10 days in August
If you want to help out, money might you’re likely to get assistance from people USA (%202-387-6101; www.kenyaembassy.com; 2249 R (p286).
wherever you need it. Visually or hearing-
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be better donated to the charity Homeless Street NW, Washington DC 20008) Mombasa Carnival ([email protected])
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Children International (%020-573013; www impaired travellers, however, will find it November street festival, with music, dance and other
.hcikenya.org), which works to improve condi- very hard to get by without an able-bodied Embassies & Consulates in Kenya events (see p316).
tions for these children. companion. A selection of countries that maintain diplo- East Africa Safari Rally (www.eastafricansafarirally.com)
In Nairobi, only the ex-London taxis matic missions in Kenya are listed below. Classic car rally now in its 50th year, covering Kenya, Tanzania
are spacious enough to accommodate a Australia (Map pp280-1;%020-445034; www.embassy and Uganda using only pre-1971 vehicles. Held in December.
Although crime is a fact of life in Kenya, wheelchair, but many safari companies do .gov.au/ke.html; ICIPE House, Riverside Dr, Nairobi)
it needn’t spoil your trip. Above all, don’t regularly take disabled people out on safari. Canada (%020-3663000; www.nairobi.gc.ca; Limuru FOOD
make the mistake of distrusting every Ken- The travel agency Travel Scene Services (%020- Rd, Nairobi) You can eat well in Kenya, though outside
yan just because of a few bad apples – the 215404; [email protected]) has lots of ex- Ethiopia (Map pp280-1; %020-2732050; State House the major towns variety isn’t always a pri-
honest souls you meet will far outweigh any perience with disabled travellers. Ave, Nairobi) ority; see p277 for a full rundown of the
crooks who cross your path. Many of the top-end beach resorts on France (Map pp280-1; %020-316363; www.ambafrance restaurant scene. In general you should be
the coast have facilities for the disabled, -ke.org; Barclays Plaza, Loita St, Nairobi) able to snack for KSh10 to KSh100 on the
Scams whether it’s a few token ramps or fully Germany (%020-4262100; www.nairobi.diplo.de; 113 street and fill up for under KSh200 in any
At some point in Kenya you’ll almost cer- equipped rooms with handrails and bath- Riverside Dr, Nairobi) cheap Kenyan cafeteria; an Indian or stand-
tainly come across people who play on the tubs. Many of the hotels owned by Lonrho Ireland (%020-556647; [email protected]; ard Western meal will cost around KSh500,
emotions and gullibility of foreigners. Nai- Hotels (Nairobi %020-216940; www.lonrhohotels.com) Masai Rd, Nairobi) a Chinese meal anything up to KSh1000, and
robi is a particular hot spot, with ‘friendly’ can make provisions for disabled people – Israel (Map pp280-1; %020-2722182; Bishops Rd, Nairobi) a top-flight meal in a classy restaurant with
approaches a daily if not hourly occurrence Mount Kenya Safari Club has its own Italy Mombasa (Map p314; %041-314705; Jubilee Bldg, wine and all the trimmings can easily exceed
(see p285 for examples of favourite tricks). wheelchair for guests’ use. In Amboseli Moi Ave, Mombasa); Nairobi (Map pp282-3; %020-319198; KSh2000 per person.
It’s OK to talk to these people if they’re not National Park, Ol Tukai Lodge (Nairobi %020- [email protected]; International Life House, In this book we have organised restaur-
actively hassling you, but you should always 4445514; [email protected]) has two disabled- Mama Ngina St, Nairobi) ants by type of food where appropriate, for
ignore any requests for money. friendly cottages. Japan (Map pp282-3; %020-315850; embjap@wananchi ease of reference.
Be sceptical of strangers who claim to rec- .com; ICEA Bldg, Kenyatta Ave, Nairobi)
ognise you in the street, especially if they’re EMBASSIES & CONSULATES Netherlands (%020-4447412; Riverside Lane, Nairobi) GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
vague about exactly where they know you Kenyan Embassies & Consulates South Africa Nairobi (%020-2827100; Roshanmaer Pl, Even today there is still a widespread per-
from – it’s unlikely that any ordinary per- Australia (%02-6247 4788; [email protected]; Lenana Rd, Nairobi) ception across Africa that homosexuality
son is going to be that excited by seeing QBE Bldg, 33-35 Ainslie Ave, Canberra, ACT 2601) Spain (Map pp282-3; %020-246009; embespke@mail is somehow an un-African phenomenon,
you twice. Anyone who makes a big show Canada (%613-563 1773; www.kenyahighcommission .mae.es; International House, Mama Ngina St, Nairobi) introduced to the continent by degenerate
of inviting you into the hospitality of their .ca; 415 Laurier Ave, East Ottawa, Ontario, KIN 6R4) Sudan (Map pp280-1; %020-2720883; sudanemb@ European colonials. It goes on covertly, of
home also probably has ulterior motives. Ethiopia (%01-610033; [email protected]; wananchi.com; AON-Minet Bldg, Mamlaka Rd, Nairobi) At course, but under Kenyan law homosexu-
The usual trick is to bestow some kind of Fikre Miriam Rd, PO Box 3301, Addis Ababa) the time of research, this embassy did not issue visas. ality is still punishable by up to 14 years
gift upon the delighted traveller, who is then France (%01 56 62 25 25; [email protected]; 3 Rue Tanzania (Map pp282-3; %020-311948; Reinsurance in prison. There are very few prosecutions
emotionally blackmailed into reciprocating Freycinet, 75116 Paris) Plaza, Aga Khan Walk, Nairobi) under this law, but it’s certainly better to be
to the order of several hundred shillings. Germany (%030-25922660; embassy-kenya.bn@ Uganda Kenyatta Ave, Nairobi (Map pp282-3; %020- discreet; some local conmen do a good line
Tourists with cars also face a whole set wwmail.de; Markgrafenstr 63, 10969 Berlin) 311814; Uganda House, Kenyatta Ave, Nairobi); Riverside in blackmail, picking up foreigners then
of potential rip-offs. Don’t trust people who Israel (%03-57546333; [email protected]; 15 Rehov Paddocks, Nairobi (%020-4445420; www.ugandahigh threatening to expose them to the police!
gesticulate wildly to you as you are driv- Abba Hillel Silver, Ramat Gan 52522, PO Box 52136, Tel Aviv) commission.co.ke; Riverside Paddocks, Nairobi) Although there are probably more gays
ing along, indicating your front wheels are Italy (%396-8082714; www.embassyofkenya.it; Via UK (Map pp280-1; %020-2844000; www.britishhigh and lesbians in Nairobi, the coast is more tol-
wobbling; if you stop, chances are you’ll be Archmede 165, 00197 Rome) commission.gov.uk/kenya; Upper Hill Rd, Nairobi) erant of gay relationships, at least privately.
relieved of your valuables. Another trick is to Japan (%03-3723 4006; www.embassy-avenue.jp/kenya; USA (%020-3636000; http://nairobi.usembassy.gov; The closest Kenya has to a ‘scene’ is the
splash oil on your wheels, then tell you the 3-24-3 Yakumo, Meguro-Ku, Tokyo 152) United Nations Ave, Nairobi) tolerant Gypsy’s Bar (p291) in Westlands,
442 K E N YA D I R E C T O R Y • • H o l i d a y s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K E N YA D I R E C T O R Y • • M o n e y 443
Nairobi, though as of September 2005 the programs. In Nairobi or Mombasa you can ATMs
organisation Gay Kenya (www.gaykenya.com) has pay as little as KSh1 per minute for access, LEGAL AGE Virtually all banks in Kenya now have
introduced an official bimonthly gay night, but in rural areas and top-end hotels the rate Age of majority: 18 years ATMs at most branches, but their useful-
also in Westlands; call %020-4452691 for can be as high as KSh20 per minute. ness to travellers varies widely. Barclays
Voting age: 18 years
details. With the increasing popularity of Internet Bank has easily the most reliable ATMs for
The Purple Roofs travel directory (www.purple cafés, the national Posta network has stepped Age of consent (heterosexual): 16 years international withdrawals, with a large net-
roofs.com/africa/kenyata.html) lists a number of gay in and virtually revolutionised the industry Age of criminal responsibility: 8 years
work of ATMs covering most major Ken-
or gay-friendly tour companies in Kenya and by offering Internet access at almost every yan towns. They support MasterCard, Visa,
around the world who may be able to help main post office in the country. The real Drinking age: 18 years Plus and Cirrus international networks.
you plan your trip. For luxury all-inclusive beauty of this is that every branch charges Standard Chartered and Kenya Commer-
packages, the travel agents Atlantis Events (www the same fixed rate of KSh1.16 per minute cial Bank ATMs also accept Visa but not
.atlantisevents.com) and David Tours (www.davidtours (KSh1 plus VAT). It’s run on a prepay sys- on detail, but they include the numbered the other major providers, and are more
.com) can arrange anything from balloon sa- tem: you pay KSh100 for a card with a PIN junctions in the national parks. likely to decline transactions. Whichever
faris to luxurious coastal hideaways, all with code, which you can then use to log in at any The most detailed and thorough maps bank you use, the international data link
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a gay focus. For information, Behind the Mask branch as often as you like until the money are published by the Survey of Kenya, but still goes down occasionally, so don’t rely
(www.mask.org.za) is an excellent website cover- runs out. While the service can’t often com- the majority are out of date and many are on being able to withdraw money whenever
ing gay issues and news from across Africa. pete with the flashier private offices in big out of print. Better bookshops in Nairobi you need it.
cities like Nairobi and Mombasa, it’s well usually have copies of the most important
HOLIDAYS worth investigating if you’re further afield. maps, including Amboseli National Park Cash
All government offices and banks close on (SK 87), Masai Mara Game Reserve (SK While most major currencies are accepted
public holidays, and most shops and busi- LEGAL MATTERS 86), Meru National Park (SK 65), Tsavo in Nairobi and Mombasa, once away from
nesses will either close or run according to All drugs except miraa are illegal in Kenya. East National Park (SK 82) and Tsavo West these two centres you’ll run into problems
their usual Sunday opening hours. Popular Marijuana (commonly known as bhang) is National Park (SK 78). with currencies other than US dollars, Brit-
events can cause a run on accommodation widely available but highly illegal, and pos- ish pounds and euros. Away from the coast,
at the lower end of the budget scale, and session carries a penalty of up to 10 years in MONEY you may even struggle to change euros. Play
transport may run less frequently or be more prison. Dealers are common on the beaches The unit of currency is the Kenyan shilling it safe and carry US dollars – it makes life
crowded than usual. north and south of Mombasa, and frequently (KSh), which is made up of 100 cents. Notes much simpler.
Muslim festivals are significant events along set up travellers for real or phoney cops to in circulation are KSh1000, 500, 200, 100,
the coast. Many places to eat in the region extort money. African prisons are unbeliev- 50 and 20, and there are also new coins Credit Cards
close until after sundown during the Muslim ably harsh places; don’t take the risk. of KSh40, 20, 10, 5 and 1 in circulation. Credit cards are becoming increasingly pop-
fasting month of Ramadan, which will run Note that miraa is illegal in Tanzania, Old coins are much bigger and heavier, and ular, with old fraud-friendly, fully manual
from 24 September 2006, 13 September 2007 so if you do develop a taste for the stuff come in denominations of KSh5 (seven- swipe machines slowly being replaced by
and 2 September 2008. The Maulid Festi- in Kenya you should leave it behind when sided) and KSh1. The old 50¢, 10¢ and 5¢ electronic systems that dial up for every
val (p353), marking the birth of the Prophet heading south. coins are now pretty rare, as most prices transaction. While there’s less chance of
Mohammed, is also widely celebrated, espe- are whole-shilling amounts. Note that most someone making extra copies of chits this
cially on Lamu. This will take place on 20 MAPS public telephones accept only new coins. way, the connections fail with tedious regu-
March 2007 and 20 March 2008. Bookshops, especially the larger ones in Locally the shilling is commonly known larity. Visa and MasterCard are now widely
Nairobi, are the best places to look for as a ‘bob’, after the old English term for a accepted, but it would be prudent to stick to
Public Holidays maps in Kenya. The Tourist Map of Kenya 1-shilling coin. upmarket hotels, restaurants and shopping
New Year’s Day 1 January gives good detail, as does the Kenya Route The shilling has been relatively stable centres to use them.
Easter (Good Friday and Easter Monday) March/April Map; both cost around KSh250. Marco over the last few years, maintaining fairly Be aware that credit-card companies will
Labour Day 1 May Polo’s 1:1,000,000 Shell Euro Karte Kenya constant rates against a falling US dollar not post cards to Kenya, so you’ll have to
Madaraka (Self-Rule) Day 1 June and Geocenter’s Kenya (1:1,000,000) are and a strong British pound. Both these cur- arrange a courier.
Moi Day 10 October useful overview maps that are widely avail- rencies are easy to change throughout the
Kenyatta Day 20 October able in Europe. For those planning a longer country, as is the euro, which is rapidly Moneychangers
Independence Day 12 December trip in southern and East Africa, Michelin’s replacing the US dollar as the standard cur- The best places to change money are foreign
Christmas Day 25 December 1:4,000,000 map 955 (Africa Central and rency quoted for hotel prices on the coast. exchange or ‘forex’ bureaus, which can be
Boxing Day 26 December South) is very useful. Cash is easy and quick to exchange at banks found everywhere and usually don’t charge
Macmillan publishes a series of maps and foreign exchange bureaus, but carries a commission. Watch out for differing small
INTERNET ACCESS to the wildlife parks and these are not bad higher risk of theft, while travellers cheques bill (US$10) and large bill (US$100) rates;
Email is firmly established in Kenya, although value at around KSh250 each (three are are replaceable, but not as widely accepted the larger bills usually get the better rates.
connection speeds fluctuate wildly, even in available in Europe – Amboseli, Masai Mara and often carry high commission charges. Banks also change money, but they charge
Nairobi. Most towns have at least one In- and Tsavo East & West). Tourist Maps also Carrying a combination of these and a Visa large commissions and there’s a fee per trav-
ternet café where you can surf freely and ac- publishes a national park series for roughly ATM card will ensure you’re never stuck ellers cheque, so you’re better off carrying
cess webmail accounts or instant messenger the same price. They might look a bit flimsy for cash. larger denominations. Travellers cheque
444 K E N YA D I R E C T O R Y • • P h o t o g r a p h y & V i d e o www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K E N YA D I R E C T O R Y • • Te l e p h o n e 445
rates may be better than at the bureaus, and cheaper at KSh250 to KSh350. Watch out Most things arrive eventually, although coin into the slot first. Calls to Tanzania and
you’ll have the added bonus of being able for out-of-date batches. there is still a problem with theft within the Uganda are priced as long-distance calls,
to put your money away in the secure set- Both VHS and Hi-8 video film is avail- system. Curios, clothes and textiles will be not international.
ting of the bank foyer. AmEx has offices in able in Nairobi and Mombasa, but it’s rela- OK, but if your parcel contains anything of For the international dialling code, see
Mombasa and Nairobi, where you can buy tively expensive. You may also be able to obvious value, send it by courier. Posta has Quick Reference inside the front cover of
and sell AmEx travellers cheques. find memory cards and other accessories its own courier service, EMS, which is con- this book.
for digital and DV cameras, but again prices siderably cheaper than the big international
INTERNATIONAL TRANSFERS are high and quality is not guaranteed. courier companies. Mobile Phones
Postbank, a branch of the Kenyan Post Of- An estimated 80% of all calls here are now
fice, is the regional agent for Western Union, Film Processing Receiving Mail made on mobile phones, and coverage is
the global money-transfer company. Using Shops and booths offering film processing Letters can be sent care of poste restante in good in all but the furthest rural areas. Kenya
its service is an easy way (if the phones are are popping up in small towns and villages any town. Make sure your correspondents uses the GSM 900 system, which is compat-
working) of receiving money in Kenya. all over Kenya. In addition, there are plenty write your name in block capitals and also ible with Europe and Australia but not with
Handily, the sender pays all the charges of one-hour film-processing labs in Nai- underline the surname. the North American GSM 1900 system. If
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and there’s a Postbank in most towns, often robi, and at least one in all other major Some travellers use the American Express you have a GSM phone, check with your
within the post office itself or close by. towns. They can handle any film speeds, Clients Mail Service Mombasa (Map p314; %041- service provider about using it in Kenya, and
Senders should contact Western Union (www but results can vary. Depending on the 315405; Nairobi Express Kenya Ltd, PO Box 90631, Nkrumah beware of high roaming charges. Remember
.westernunion.com; Australia %1800-501500; New Zealand print size, processing and printing costs Rd); Nairobi (Map pp282-3; %020-222906; Express Kenya that you will generally be charged for receiv-
%0800-270000; UK %0800-833833; USA %1800- about KSh480 to KSh650 for a 36-exposure Ltd, PO Box 40433, Hilton Hotel, Mama Ngina St) and this ing calls abroad as well as for making them.
3256000) to find out the location of their film. E6 slide processing can only be done can be a useful, and more reliable, alterna- If your phone isn’t locked into a network,
nearest agent. in Nairobi and costs around KSh450 for a tive. You’ll need to have an AmEx card or be you can pick up a prepaid starter pack from
36-exposure film. using its travellers cheques to avail yourself one of the Kenyan mobile-phone companies;
Tipping of this service. the main players are Safaricom (www.safari
Tipping is not common practice among POST com.co.ke) and Celtel (www.ke.celtel.com). A SIM
Kenyans, but there’s no harm in rounding The Kenyan postal system is run by the gov- TELEPHONE card will cost about KSh100, and you can
up the bill by a few shillings if you’re pleased ernment Postal Corporation of Kenya, now The Kenyan fixed-line phone system, run then buy top-up ‘scratchcards’ from shops
with the service in a cheap restaurant. In rebranded as the dynamic-sounding Posta. by Telkom Kenya (www.telkom.co.ke), is more or and booths across the country. An inter-
tourist-oriented businesses a service charge Letters sent from Kenya rarely go astray, but less functional, but has been overtaken by national SMS costs around KSh10, and
of 10% is often added to the bill, along with can take up to two weeks to reach Australia the massive popularity of prepaid mobile voice charges vary according to tariff, time
the 16% VAT and 2% catering levy. Most or the USA. Incoming letters to Kenya take phones. and destination of call.
tourist guides and all safari drivers and anywhere from four days to a week to reach International call rates from Kenya have You can easily buy a handset anywhere
cooks will expect some kind of gratuity at the poste-restante service in Nairobi. come down recently, but are still relatively in Kenya, generally unlocked and with SIM
the end of your tour or trip. As fares are The following table lists airmail rates (in expensive, charged at a flat rate of US$0.90 card. Prices start around KSh2500 for a very
negotiated in advance, taxi drivers do not KSh) for items posted from Kenya: per minute during peak periods and US$0.64 basic model.
need to be tipped unless they provide ex- per minute off-peak to any destination. Mobile-phone numbers have a four-digit
ceptional service. East USA & Operator-assisted calls are charged at the prefix beginning with 07.
Item Africa Europe Australia standard peak rate but are subject to a three-
PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO minute minimum. You can always dial di- Phonecards
Photographing people remains a sensitive letter 55 75 95 rect using a phonecard. All phones should be With the new Telkom Kenya phonecards,
issue in Kenya. Some tribal groups request small postcard 30 40 55 able to receive incoming calls (the number is any phone can now be used for prepaid
money for you to take their photo. large postcard 55 75 95 usually scrawled in the booth somewhere). calls – you just have to dial the access number
You should never get your camera out aerogram 35 45 45 Reverse-charge (collect) calls are possible, (%0844), and enter in the number and pass-
at border crossings or near government or but only to countries that have set up free code on the card. There are booths selling
army buildings; even bridges can sometimes Note that there are different prices for large direct-dial numbers allowing you to reach the cards all over the country. Cards come
be classed as sensitive areas. and small postcards – if in doubt, go with the international operator in the country in denominations of KSh200, KSh500,
the large postcard price. you are calling. Currently these include: KSh1000 and KSh2000, and call charges are
Film & Equipment the UK (%0800-220441), the USA (%0800-111, slightly more expensive than for standard
You’ll find Kodak and Fuji 100, 200 and Parcels 0800-1112), Canada (%0800-220114, 0800-220115), lines (peak/off-peak US$1/70¢).
400 ASA (ISO) print and slide film widely If sent by surface mail, parcels take three New Zealand (%0800-220641) and Switzerland
available in Nairobi, but even 100 ISO slide to six months to reach Europe, while air- (%0800-220411). TIME
film is hard to find in Mombasa. If you mail parcels take around a week. As a rough The minimum charge for a local call Time in Kenya is GMT/UTC plus three
plan to use 64 or 800 ASA film, bring it guide, a 1kg parcel sent by air/surface mail from a payphone is KSh5 for 97 seconds, hours year-round. You should also be aware
from home. As an indication of price, 36- would cost KSh1160/940 to East Africa, while long-distance rates vary depending of the concept of ‘Swahili time’, which per-
exposure slide film in Nairobi costs about KSh1270/1030 to Europe and KSh1330/1070 on the distance. When making a local call versely is six hours out of kilter with the
KSh400; 36-exposure colour print film is to the rest of the world. from a public phone, make sure you put a rest of the world. Noon and midnight are
446 K E N YA D I R E C T O R Y • • T o u r i s t I n f o r m a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N K E N YA • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 447
6 o’clock (saa sitta) Swahili time, and 7am arrival at Jomo Kenyatta International Air- frequently in Nairobi). Most embassies will WORK
and 7pm are 1 o’clock (saa moja). Just add port in Nairobi. The visa fee is UK£35 or want you to pay visa fees in US dollars (see It’s difficult, although by no means impos-
or subtract six hours from whatever time US$50 for a single-entry visa, and UK£70 p441 for contact details). sible, for foreigners to find jobs. Apart from
you are told; Swahili doesn’t distinguish be- or US$100 for multiple entries. If you have Just because a country has an embassy or voluntary and conservation work, which
tween am and pm. You don’t come across any other currencies, you’ll have to change consulate here, it doesn’t necessarily mean you usually pay to participate in, the most
this often unless you speak Swahili, but you them into Kenyan shillings. Tourist visas you can get that country’s visa. The borders likely areas for gainful employment are the
still need to be prepared for it. can be extended for a further three-month with Somalia and Sudan are both closed, so safari business, teaching, advertising and
period, but seven-day transit visas (US$20) you’ll have to go to Addis Ababa in Ethiopia journalism. As in most countries, the rule
TOURIST INFORMATION cannot. if you want a Sudanese visa, and Somali is that if an African can be found to do the
Local Tourist Offices It’s also possible to get visas from Ken- visas are unlikely to be available for the fore- job, there’s no need to hire a foreigner.
Considering the extent to which the coun- yan diplomatic missions overseas, but you seeable future. Work permits and resident visas are not
try relies on tourism, it’s incredible to think should apply well in advance, especially if For Ethiopia, Tanzania and Uganda, three- easy to arrange. A prospective employer may
that, at the time of writing, there was still no you’re doing it by mail. Visas are usually month visas are readily available in Nai- be able to sort out the necessary paperwork
tourist office in Nairobi. There are a hand- valid for entry within three months of the robi and cost US$50 for most nationalities. for you, but otherwise you’ll find yourself
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ful of information offices elsewhere in the date of issue. Applications for Kenyan visas Two passport photos are required for appli- spending a lot of time and money at the im-
country, ranging from helpful private con- are simple and straightforward in Tanzania cations and visas can usually be issued the migration office (Map pp282-3; %020-222022; Nyayo
cerns to underfunded government offices; and Uganda, and payment is accepted in same day. House, cnr Kenyatta Ave & Uhuru Hwy) in Nairobi.
most can at least provide basic maps of the local currency. Visas can also be issued on
town, and brochures on local businesses and
attractions.
i-Point Diani Beach (Map p323;%040-3202234;
arrival at the land borders with Uganda and
Tanzania.
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
Within Kenyan society, women are poorly
represented in positions of power, and the
TRANSPORT IN KENYA
Barclays Centre) Visa Extensions few high-profile women in politics run the GETTING THERE & AWAY
Lamu (Map p342; %042-633449) Off Kenyatta Rd. Visas can be renewed at immigration of- same risks of violence as their male coun- Unless you are travelling overland from
Malindi (Map p337; %042-20689; Malindi Complex, fices during normal office hours, and ex- terparts. However, in their day-to-day lives, southern Africa or Egypt, flying is by far
Lamu Rd) tensions are usually issued on a same-day Kenyans are generally respectful towards the most convenient way to get to Kenya.
Mombasa (Map p312; %041-225428; [email protected]; basis. Staff at the immigration offices are women, although white women in bars will Nairobi is a major African hub, and flights
Moi Ave) generally friendly and helpful, but the proc- attract a lot of interest from would-be suit- between Kenya and the rest of Africa are
ess takes a while. You’ll need two passport ors. Most are just having a go and will give easy to come by and relatively cheap. Most
Tourist Offices Abroad photos and KSh2200 for a three-month ex- up if you tell them you aren’t interested. The overland routes pass through several war
The Ministry of Tourism maintains a num- tension. You also need to fill out a form only place you are likely to have problems zones and should only be considered after
ber of overseas offices. registering as an alien if you’re going to be is at the beach resorts on the coast, where some serious planning and preparation.
Canada (%905-891 3909; www.kcocanada.org; 1599 staying more than 90 days. Immigration of- women may be approached by male pros- For information on getting to Kenya
Hurontario St, Ste 100, Mississauga, Ontario L5G 4S1) fices are only open Monday to Friday; note titutes as well as local romeos. It’s always from outside East Africa, see the Transport
Germany (%089-23662194; [email protected]; c/o The that the smaller offices may sometimes refer best to cover your legs and shoulders when in East Africa chapter (p631).
Magnum Group, Herzogspitalstrade 5, D-80331 Munich) travellers back to Nairobi or Mombasa for away from the beach so as not to offend
Italy (%02-481 02 361; [email protected]; c/o Adam & visa extensions. local sensibilities. Entering Kenya
Partner Italia, Via Salaino 12, 20144 Milano) Local immigration offices: With the upsurge in crime in Nairobi Entering Kenya is generally straightforward,
Netherlands (%020-421 26 68; [email protected]; Kisumu (Map p398; 1st fl, Reinsurance Plaza, cnr Jomo and along the coast, women should avoid particularly at the international airports,
Leliegracht 20, 1015 DG Amersterdam) Kenyatta Hwy & Oginga Odinga Rd) walking around at night. The ugly fact is which are no different from most Western
Spain (%93-292 06 55; [email protected]; c/o Tuset 10, Lamu (Map p342; %042-633032) Off Kenyatta Rd. that while men are likely just to be robbed terminals. Visas are typically available on ar-
3o4a, 08006 Barcelona) Malindi (Map p337; %042-30876; Mama Ngina Rd) without violence, rape is a real risk for rival for most nationalities (passport photos
UK (%020-7836 7738; [email protected]; 69 Monmouth Mombasa (Map p312; %041-311745; Uhuru ni Kari women. Lone night walks along the beach required), but you should contact your near-
St, London WC2H 9JW) Bldg, Mama Ngina Dr) or through quiet city streets are a recipe est Kenyan diplomatic office to get the most
USA (%1-866-44-53692; [email protected]; Nairobi (Map pp282-3; %020-222022; Nyayo House, for disaster, and criminals usually work in up-to-date information. Exchange offices or
Carlson Destination Marketing Services, PO Box 59159 cnr Kenyatta Ave & Uhuru Hwy) gangs, so take a taxi, even if you’re in a moneychangers are always present, and visa
Minneapolis, MN 55459-8257) group. fees can be paid in local currency or US dol-
Visas for Onward Travel Regrettably, black women in the com- lars. If you enter Nairobi with no onward or
VISAS Since Nairobi is a common gateway city to pany of white men are often assumed to return ticket, you may run foul of immigra-
Visas are now required by almost all vis- East Africa and the city centre is easy to get be prostitutes, and can face all kinds of tion and be forced to buy one on the spot –
itors to Kenya, including Europeans, Aus- around, many travellers spend some time discrimination from hotels and security an expensive exercise.
tralians, New Zealanders, Americans and here picking up visas for other countries guards, as well as approaches from Kenyan
Canadians, although citizens from a few that they intend to visit. If you are going to hustlers offering to help rip off the white Passport
smaller Commonwealth countries are ex- do this, you need to plan ahead of time and ‘customer’. Again, the worst of this can be There are no restrictions on which national-
empt. Visas are valid for three months from call the embassy to confirm the hours that avoided by taking taxis between hotels and ities can enter Kenya. Citizens of Tanzania,
the date of entry and can be obtained on visa applications are received (these change restaurants etc. Uganda, the Republic of Ireland, Rwanda,
448 T R A N S P O R T I N K E N YA • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N K E N YA • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 449
Scandinavia, Sudan and certain Common- Gulf Air (airline code GF; %020-241123; www.gulfairco The security situation around the main and Lunga Lunga, and can be reached by
wealth countries did not require visas at the .com) Hub: Abu Dhabi. entry point at Moyale is changeable, and public transport. There is also a crossing
time of writing; see p446 and check the latest Kenya Airways (airline code KQ; Map pp280-1; %020- although the border is usually open, secur- from the Serengeti to the Masai Mara, which
situation before travelling. 32074100; www.kenya-airways.com) Hub: Jomo Kenyatta ity problems have forced its closure several can only be undertaken with your own ve-
International Airport, Nairobi. times. Cattle- and goat-rustling are rife in hicle, and one at Loitokitok, which is closed
Air KLM (airline code KL; Map pp280-1; %020-32074100; the area, triggering frequent cross-border to tourists.
Most international flights to and from Nai- www.klm.com) Hub: Amsterdam. tribal wars, so check the security situation Main bus companies serving Tanzania:
robi are handled by Jomo Kenyatta Interna- Oman Air (airline code WY; Map p314; %041-221444; carefully before attempting this crossing. Akamba (Map pp282-3; %020-340430; akamba_prs@
tional Airport (NBO; %020-825400; www.kenyaairports www.oman-air.com) Hub: Muscat. Office in Mombasa. From immigration on the Ethiopian side skyweb.co.ke; Nairobi)
.co.ke), 15km southeast of the city. By African Precision Air (airline code PW; %020-602561; www of town it’s a 2km walk to the customs posts. Davanu Shuttle (%057-8142; Arusha) Arusha/Moshi
standards it’s a pretty well-organised place, .precisionairtz.com) Hub: Dar es Salaam. Be aware that a yellow-fever vaccination is shuttle buses.
with two international terminals, a smaller Rwandair (airline code WB; %0733-740703; www required to cross either border at Moyale. Easy Coach (Map pp282-3; %020-210711; easycoach@
domestic terminal, and an incredible number .rwandair.com) Hub: Kigali. Unless you fancy being vaccinated at the wananchi.com; Nairobi)
of shops offering duty-free and expensive Safarilink Aviation (%020-600777; www.safarilink.co border, get your jabs in advance and keep the Riverside Shuttle Nairobi (Map pp282-3; %020-
K E N YA
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souvenirs, snacks and Internet access. .ke) Hub: Wilson Airport, Nairobi. Kilimanjaro only. yellow-fever certificate with your passport. A 229618); Arusha (%057-2639) Arusha/Moshi shuttle buses.
Some flights between Nairobi and Kili- SN Brussels Airlines (airline code SN; %020-4443070; cholera vaccination may also be required. Scandinavia Express (Map pp282-3; %020-247131;
manjaro International Airport or Mwanza in www.flysn.com) Hub: Brussels. If you’re travelling in the other direction, Nairobi)
Tanzania, as well as many domestic flights, South African Airways (airline code SA; %020-229663; through Ethiopia to Sudan, you’ll have to go
use Wilson Airport (WIL; %020-501941), which is www.saakenya.com) Hub: Johannesburg. to Addis Ababa to get your Sudanese visa. Arusha & Moshi
6km south of the city on Langata Rd. The Swiss International Airlines (airline code SR; %020- Those coming to Kenya with their own From Nairobi, there are frequent services
other arrival point in the country is Moi Inter- 3744045; www.swiss.com) Hub: Zurich. vehicle could also enter at Fort Banya, on to Moshi, travelling via Arusha in Tanzania.
national Airport (MBA; %041-433211) in Mom- the northeastern tip of Lake Turkana (just Most leave from the hectic River Rd area in
basa, 9km west of the city centre, but apart Land a point on the map). However, it’s a risky Nairobi; thefts are common there so watch
from flights to Zanzibar this is mainly used BUS route and fuel stops are few and far be- your baggage. Easy Coach is a good option,
by charter airlines and domestic flights. Entering Kenya by bus is possible on sev- tween. There is no border post, so you must as services leave from its office compound
Kenya Airways is the main national and eral major routes, and it’s generally a breeze: already possess a Kenyan visa and get it near Nairobi railway station. Buses from
regional carrier, and has a generally good while you need to get off the bus to sort out stamped on arrival in Nairobi; immigration Nairobi to Dar es Salaam (see p450) also
safety record. There are good connections any necessary visa formalities, you’ll rarely officials are quite used to this, although not travel via Arusha, and small local buses leave
from Nairobi to most regions of Africa: be held up for too long at the border. That having an Ethiopian exit stamp can be a from Accra Rd every morning. The average
Kenya Airways and the relevant national said, arranging your visa in advance can save problem if you want to re-enter Ethiopia. cost of these services is KSh700 to KSh1000
airlines serve everywhere from Abidjan to you time and a few angry glares from your to Arusha and KSh1000 to KSh1200 to
Yaoundé at least a few times a week. fellow passengers. Addis Ababa Moshi, more for the real luxury liners.
Airlines flying to and from Kenya, with If you don’t have your own transport to It’s also easy, though less convenient, to
offices in Nairobi except where otherwise CAR & MOTORCYCLE Moyale, lifts can be arranged with the trucks do this journey in stages, since the Kenyan
indicated: Crossing land borders with your own vehicle from Isiolo for around KSh1000. and Tanzanian border posts at Namanga are
Air India (airline code AI; Map pp282-3;%020-340925; is straightforward as long as you have the On the Ethiopian side of the border, a right next to each other and regularly served
www.airindia.com) Hub: Mumbai. necessary paperwork; see p452 for details on bus leaves for Addis Ababa (Birr78.6) each by public transport.
Air Malawi (airline code QM; %020-240965; www.air requirements and general road rules. Petrol, morning around 5.30am. The two-day jour- If you’re coming from Mombasa, there
malawi.net) Hub: Lilongwe. spare parts and repair shops are readily avail- ney is broken with a night’s sleep at Awasa are a number of rickety local buses to Aru-
Air Zimbabwe (airline code UM; %020-339522; www able at all border towns, though if you’re or Shashemene. sha and Moshi that leave every evening
.airzim.co.zw) Hub: Harare. coming from Ethiopia you should plan your from in front of the Mwembe Tayari Health
Airkenya (airline code QP; %020-605745; www.air supplies carefully, as stops are few and far TO/FROM SUDAN Centre on Jomo Kenyatta Ave (Map p314).
kenya.com) Hub: Wilson Airport, Nairobi. Kilimanjaro only. between on the rough northern roads. Recent progress in the Sudanese peace proc- Fares are around KSh500 to Moshi (six
British Airways (airline code BA; Map pp282-3; %020- If you’re planning to ship your vehicle to ess has raised many people’s hopes for the hours) and KSh800 to Arusha (7½ hours).
244430; www.british-airways.com) Hub: Heathrow Airport, Kenya, be aware that port charges in Kenya future, but Kenya’s neighbour to the north These buses cross the border at Taveta,
London. are very high. There are numerous shipping is still far from untroubled. If things con- which can also be reached by matatu from
Daallo Airlines (airline code D3; %020-317318; www agents in Nairobi and Mombasa willing to tinue to improve, the Kenya–Sudan border Voi (see p308).
.daallo.com) Hub: Hargeisa. arrange everything for you, but check all the may reopen, but at time of writing it was
Egypt Air (airline code MS; Map pp282-3; %020- costs in advance. still only possible to travel between the two Mwanza
226821; www.egyptair.com.eg) Hub: Cairo. countries by air or via Ethiopia. A sealed road runs all the way from Kisumu
Emirates (airline code EK; Map pp280-1; %020- TO/FROM ETHIOPIA to just short of Mwanza in Tanzania, offer-
211187; www.emirates.com) Hub: Dubai. Border Crossings TO/FROM TANZANIA ing a convenient route to the Tanzanian
Ethiopian Airlines (airline code ET; Map pp282-3; With the ongoing problems in Sudan and Border Crossings shore of Lake Victoria. From Nairobi, prob-
%020-330837; www.ethiopianairlines.com) Hub: Addis Somalia, Ethiopia offers the only viable The main land borders between Kenya and ably the most comfortable way to go is with
Ababa. overland route into Kenya from the north. Tanzania are at Namanga, Taveta, Isebania Scandinavia Express or Akamba; prices cost
450 T R A N S P O R T I N K E N YA • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N K E N YA • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 451
around KSh1000 to KSh2000, and the jour- Falcon (Map p314; %020-229692) Dragoman (UK %01728-861133; www.dragoman.co.uk) more where the country is flatter. Hell’s
ney should take roughly 12 hours. Scandinavia Express (Map pp282-3; %020-247131) Explore Worldwide (UK %01252-760000; www.explore Gate National Park, near Naivasha, is par-
From Kisumu, regular matatus serve the worldwide.com) ticularly popular for mountain biking.
Tanzanian border at Isebania/Sirari (KSh350, Kampala Flight Centres Cape Town (%021-385 1530; cpt@africa It’s possible to hire road and mountain
four hours); local services head to Mwanza Various companies cover the Nairobi to travelco.com); Nairobi (Map pp282-3; %020-210024; bikes in an increasing number of places, usu-
from the Tanzanian side. Buses going direct Kampala route. From Nairobi, and at the www.flightcentres-kenya.com); Victoria Falls (%013- ally for less than KSh500 per day. Few places
to Mwanza (KSh500, four hours) leave fre- top end of the market, Scandinavia Express 40172; [email protected]) require a deposit, unless their machines are
quently from Kisii. and Akamba have buses at least once daily, Gametrackers Ltd (Map pp282-3; %020-338927; particularly new or sophisticated. Several
ranging from ordinary buses at around www.gametrackersafaris.com) tour operators now offer cycling safaris (see
Tanga & Dar es Salaam KSh1000 to full-blown luxury services with Guerba Expeditions (UK %01373-826611; www.guerba p88 for details).
Several Kenyan companies have buses from drinks and movies, hovering around the .co.uk)
Nairobi to Dar es Salaam. Scandinavia Ex- KSh2000 mark. All buses take about 10 to Boat
press and Akamba both have reliable daily 12 hours and prices include a meal at the GETTING AROUND DHOW
services from their offices in the River Rd halfway point. Akamba also has a service to Air Sailing on a traditional Swahili dhow along
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area, with prices ranging from KSh1600 to Mbale in Uganda (KSh800, 10 hours). Four domestic operators of varying sizes, in- the East African coast is one of Kenya’s most
real luxury coaches at KSh3000. Journey Various other companies have cheaper cluding the national carrier Kenya Airways, memorable experiences, and unlike Lake
time is around 16 to 18 hours with stops. basic services leaving from the Accra Rd area now run scheduled flights within Kenya. All Victoria certain traditional routes are very
Numerous buses run along the coast road in Nairobi. Prices start at around KSh800 appear to have a clean slate safetywise. Des- much. still in use.
from Mombasa to Tanga and Dar, crossing and journey times are more or less the same tinations served are predominantly around Dhows are commonly used to get around
the border at Lunga Lunga/Horohoro. Most as the bigger companies, with a few extra al- the coast and the popular southern national the islands in the Lamu archipelago (p356)
people travel on through buses from Mom- lowances for delays and general tardiness. parks, where the highest density of tourist and the mangrove islands south of Mom-
basa, but it’s easy enough to do the journey If you want to do the journey in stages, activity takes place. basa (p326). For the most part, these operate
in stages by local bus or matatu if you’d Akamba has morning and evening buses Book well in advance (essential during the more like dhow safaris than public trans-
rather make a few stops along the way. from Nairobi to Malaba, and a daily direct tourist high season) with all these airlines. port. Although some trips are luxurious, the
In Mombasa, buses to Dar es Salaam bus from here to Kampala (KSh450, 4½ You should also remember to reconfirm trips out of Lamu are more basic.
leave from around Jomo Kenyatta Ave, hours). There are also regular matatus to return flights 72 hours before departure, Most of the smaller boats rely on the wind
near the junction with Mwembe Tayari Rd Malaba (KSh650) from Cross Rd, Nairobi. especially when connecting with an inter- to get around, so it’s quite common to end
(Map p314). The average cost is around The Ugandan and Kenyan border posts national flight. up becalmed until the wind picks up again.
KSh1000 to Dar (eight hours) and KSh500 at Malaba are about 1km apart, so you can Airlines flying domestically: The more commercial boats, however, have
to Tanga (two hours), depending on the walk or take a boda-boda. Once you get Airkenya (%020-605745; www.airkenya.com) Amboseli, been fitted with outboard motors so that
company you travel with and the standard across the border, there are frequent mata- Kiwayu, Lamu, Lewa Downs, Masai Mara, Malindi, Meru, progress can be made even when there’s no
of the buses. tus until the late afternoon to Kampala, Jinja Nanyuki, Samburu. wind. Larger dhows are all motorised and
In Dar es Salaam, buses leave from the and Tororo. Kenya Airways (Map pp280-1; %020-3274100; www some of them don’t even have sails.
Mnazi Mmoja bus stand on Bibi Titi Mo- Buses and matatus also run from Nairobi .kenya-airways.com) Kisumu, Lamu, Malindi, Mombasa.
hamed Rd, near Uhuru and Lindi Sts, along or Kisumu to Busia, from where there are Mombasa Air Safari (%041-433061; www.mombasa LAKE VICTORIA
the southeast side of Mnazi Mmoja Park. regular connections to Kampala (KSh500, airsafari.com) Amboseli, Lamu, Malindi, Masai Mara, There has been speculation for years that ferry
If you want to do the journey in stages, four hours) and Jinga. Mombasa, Tsavo, Ukunda. transport will start again on Lake Victoria,
there are frequent matatus to Lunga Lunga Safarilink (%020-600777; www.safarilink.co.ke) but for the foreseeable future the only regu-
from the Mombasa ferry jetty at Likoni. A Tours Amboseli, Chyulu Hills, Kiwayu, Lamu, Lewa Downs, Masai lar services operating are motorised canoes
matatu can then take you the 6.5km between It’s possible to get to Kenya as part of an Mara, Naivasha, Nanyuki, Samburu, Tsavo West. going to Mfangano Island from Mbita Point,
the two border posts. On the Tanzanian side, overland truck tour originating in Europe near Homa Bay. An occasional ferry service
there are regular matatus from Horohoro to or other parts of Africa (many also start in Bicycle runs between Kisumu and Homa Bay.
Tanga (TSh200). Nairobi bound for other places in Africa). Loads of Kenyans get around by bicycle, and
See p83 for more details on tours and while it can be tough for those not used to Bus
TO/FROM UGANDA safaris. the roads or the climate, plenty of hardy visit- Kenya has an extensive network of long- and
Border Crossings Most companies are based in the UK or ing cyclists do tour the country every year. short-haul bus routes, with particularly good
The main border post for overland travellers South Africa, but Flight Centres is a good If you intend to cycle here, do as the locals coverage of the areas around Nairobi, the
is Malaba, with Busia an alternative if you local operator, with offices in Nairobi, Cape do and get off the road whenever you hear a coast and the western regions. Services thin
are travelling via Kisumu. Numerous bus Town and Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. Trips car coming. No matter how experienced you out the further away from the capital you
companies run between Nairobi and Kam- can last from just a few days to epic grand are, it would be suicidal to attempt the road get, particularly in the north, and there are
pala, or you can do the journey in stages via tours of up to 13 weeks. from Nairobi to Mombasa on a bicycle. still plenty of places where you’ll be reliant
either of the border towns. Acacia Expeditions (UK %020-7706 4700; www.acacia The hills of Kenya are not particularly on matatus.
Main bus companies serving Uganda: -africa.com) steep but can be long and hard. You can Fares start around KSh80 for an hour-long
Akamba (Map pp282-3; %020-340430; akamba_prs@ African Routes (South Africa %031-569 3911; www expect to cover around 80km per day in the journey between nearby towns. At the other
skyweb.co.ke) .africanroutes.co.za) hills of the Western Highlands, somewhat end of the scale, you’ll seldom pay more
452 T R A N S P O R T I N K E N YA • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N K E N YA • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 453
than KSh500 for a standard journey, but so- Busscar (%020-227650) Kilifi, Kisumu, Malindi, HIRE which case you’ll pay an extra fee for every
called ‘executive’ services on the overnight Mombasa, Nairobi. Hiring a vehicle to tour Kenya (or at least kilometre you go over), or with unlimited
Nairobi–Mombasa route can command Coastline Safaris (Map pp282-3; %020-217592; the national parks) is an expensive way of kilometres, which is often the best way to
prices of up to KSh1500, almost as much as [email protected]) Kakamega, Kisumu, Mombasa, seeing the country, but it does give you go. Rates are usually quoted without in-
the equivalent international services. Nairobi, Nakuru, Voi. freedom of movement and is sometimes surance, and you’ll be given the option of
Buses are operated by a variety of pri- Easy Coach (Map pp282-3; %020-210711; easycoach@ the only way of getting to the more remote paying around KSh900 to KSh1500 per day
vate and state-owned companies that offer wananchi.com) Eldoret, Kakamega, Kisumu, Kitale, Nairobi. parts of the country. However, unless you’re for insurance against collision damage and
varying levels of comfort, convenience Eldoret Express (%020-6766886) Busia, Eldoret, sharing with a sufficient number of people theft. It would be financial suicide to hire a
and roadworthiness. They’re considerably Kakamega, Kisii, Kisumu, Kitale, Malaba, Nairobi. it’s likely to cost more than you’d pay for car in Kenya without both kinds of insur-
cheaper than taking the train or flying, and Falcon (Map p314; %020-229662) Kilifi, Lamu, Malindi, an organised camping safari with all meals ance. Otherwise, you’ll be responsible for
as a rule services are frequent, fast and often Mombasa, Nairobi. included. the full value of the vehicle if it’s stolen or
quite comfortable. However, many travel- KBS (Map pp282-3; %020-229707) Busia, Eldoret, Unless you’re just planning on travelling damaged.
lers are put off taking buses altogether by Kakamega, Kisii, Kisumu, Kitale, Malaba, Mombasa, Nairobi. on the main routes between towns, you’ll Even if you have collision and theft in-
the diabolical state of Kenyan roads. need a 4WD vehicle. None of the car-hire surance, you’ll still be liable for an excess
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Mombasa Metropolitan Bus Services (Metro Mom-
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In general, if you travel during daylight basa; %041-2496008) Kilifi, Kwale, Malindi, Mombasa, companies will let you drive 2WD vehicles of KSh2000 to KSh150,000 (depending on
hours, buses are a fairly safe way to get Mtwapa. on dirt roads, including those in the national the company) if something happens to the
around, and you’ll certainly be safer in a parks, and if you ignore this proscription vehicle. Always check this before signing.
bus than in a matatu, simply due to its size. Car & Motorcycle and have an accident you will be personally You can usually reduce the excess to zero
The best coaches are saved for long-haul Many travellers bring their own vehicles liable for any damage to the vehicle. by paying another KSh900 per day for an
and international routes, and offer DVD into Kenya as part of overland trips and, A minimum age of between 23 and 25 Excess Loss Waiver. Note that tyres, dam-
movies, drinks, toilets and reclining airline- expense notwithstanding, it’s a great way years usually applies for hirers. Some com- aged windscreens and loss of the tool kit are
style seats. On the shortest local routes, to see the country at your own pace. Other- panies prefer a licence with no endorsements always the hirer’s responsibility.
however, you may find yourself on some- wise, there are numerous car-hire com- or criminal convictions, and most require Most companies can provide drivers for
thing resembling a burnt-out prison bus. panies who can hire you anything from a you to have been driving for at least two around KSh1000 per day; the big advantage
Whatever kind of conveyance you find small hatchback to Toyota Land Cruiser years. You will also need acceptable ID, such of this is that the car is then covered by
yourself in, don’t sit at the back (you’ll be 4WDs, although hire rates are some of the as a passport. the company’s own insurance, so you don’t
thrown around like a rag doll), or right at highest in the world. It’s generally true to say the more you have to pay any of the various waivers and
the front (you’ll be the first to die in a head- A few expats have off-road (trail) motor- pay for a vehicle, the better condition it will will not be liable for any excess in the case
on collision, plus you’ll be able to see the on- cycles, but they aren’t seen as a serious be in. The larger companies are usually in a of an accident. In addition, having someone
coming traffic, which is usually terrifying). means of transport, which is a blessing con- stronger financial position to keep their fleet in the car who speaks Swahili, knows the
KBS, the government bus line, runs the sidering the lethal nature of the roads. in good order. Whoever you hire from, be roads and is used to Kenyan driving condi-
local buses in Nairobi and also offers long- sure to check the brakes, tyres (including the tions can be absolutely priceless, especially
haul services to most major towns around DRIVING LICENCE spare), windscreen wipers and lights before in remote areas.
the country. Its buses tend to be slower An International Driving Permit (IDP) is you set off. The deposit required on hired vehicles
than those of the private companies, but not necessary in Kenya, but can be useful. The other factor to consider is what the can vary significantly. It can be as much as
are probably safer for this reason. Of the If you have a British photocard licence, be company will do for you (if anything) if the total estimated hire charges plus what-
private companies, Akamba has the most sure to bring the counterfoil, as the date you you have a serious breakdown. The major ever the excess is on the Collision Damage
comprehensive network, and has a good, passed your driving test – something car- hire companies may deliver a replacement Waiver (CDW). You can cover this with
but not perfect, safety record. Easy Coach hire companies here may want to know – vehicle and make arrangements for recov- cash, signed travellers cheques (returnable)
is another private firm quickly establishing a isn’t printed on the card itself. ery of the other vehicle at their expense, but or credit card.
solid reputation for efficiency and comfort. with most companies you’ll have to get the If you want to hire a vehicle in one place
There are a few security considerations FUEL & SPARE PARTS vehicle fixed and back on the road yourself, and drop it off in another there will be ad-
to think about when taking a bus in Kenya. At the time of research in Nairobi regular and then try and claim a refund. ditional charges. These vary depending on
Some routes, most notably from Malindi petrol was KSh70 per litre, super KSh75 and the vehicle, the company, and the pick-up
to Lamu and Isiolo to Marsabit, have been diesel KSh65. Rates are generally lower out- Costs and drop-off locations. In most cases, count
prone to attacks by shiftas in the past; check side the capital, but can creep up in remote Starting rates for hire almost always sound on paying KSh10,000 between Nairobi and
things out locally before you travel. Another areas, where petrol stations are often scarce very reasonable, but once you factor in mile- Mombasa and about KSh5000 between
possible risk is drugged food and drink: if and you may end up buying supplies out of age and the various types of insurance you’ll Mombasa and Malindi.
you want to reach your destination with all barrels from roadside vendors. be lucky to pay less than KSh6000 per day As a final sting in the tail, you’ll be charged
your belongings, politely refuse any offers Anyone who is planning to take their own for a saloon car or KSh8000 per day for a 16% VAT on top of the total cost of hiring
of drinks or snacks from strangers. vehicle with them needs to check in advance small 4WD. As elsewhere in the world, rates the vehicle. Any repairs that you end up pay-
Main bus companies operating in Kenya: what spare parts are likely to be available. come down rapidly if you take the car for ing for will also have VAT on top, and if you
Akamba (Map pp282-3; %020-340430; akamba_prs@ Even if it’s an older model, local suppliers in more than a few days. don’t return the vehicle with a full tank of
skyweb.co.ke) Eldoret, Kakamega, Kericho, Kisii, Kisumu, Kenya are very unlikely to have every little Vehicles are usually hired with either an petrol, the company will charge you twice
Kitale, Machakos, Mombasa, Nairobi, Namanga. part you might need. allowance of 100km to 200km per day (in the going rate to fill up.
454 T R A N S P O R T I N K E N YA • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N K E N YA • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 455
Hire Agencies any given situation. The roads in the north signals can mean absolutely anything, and ing daylight hours, and generally cost no
At the top end of the market are some inter- and east of the country are particularly poor. should never be taken at face value. more than KSh40.
national companies. All have airport and/ The main Mombasa–Nairobi–Malaba road Kenyans habitually drive on the wrong
or town offices in Nairobi and Mombasa. (A104) is badly worn due to the constant side of the road whenever they see a pothole, MATATU
Of these, Budget is the best value, though flow of traffic. an animal or simply a break in the traffic – Local matatus are the main means of getting
it’s well worth paying for the Excess Loss Roads in national parks are all murram flashing your lights at the vehicle hurtling around for local people, and any reasonably
Waiver. (dirt) and have been eroded into bone- towards you should be enough to persuade sized city or town will have plenty of ser-
Central Rent-a-Car is probably the best shaking corrugations through overuse by the driver to get back into their own lane. vices covering every major road and suburb.
of the local firms, with a well-maintained safari vehicles. Keep your speed down and Never drive at night unless you absolutely Fares start at KSh10 and may reach KSh40
fleet of fairly new vehicles and a good back- be careful when driving after rain. Although have to, as few cars have adequate headlights for longer routes in Nairobi.
up service. Its excess liability is also the low- some dirt roads can be negotiated in a 2WD and the roads are full of pedestrians and cyc- Minibus transport is not unique to Kenya,
est (KSh2000), but vehicles are self-drive vehicle, you’ll be much safer in a 4WD. lists. Drunk driving is also very common. but the matatu has raised it into a cultural
only, with no drivers available. Apart from Note that foreign-registered vehicles with phenomenon, and most Kenyans use them
Central, all of these companies have steep a seating capacity of more than six people are regularly for both local and intercity jour-
K E N YA
K E N YA
ROAD HAZARDS
excesses. The biggest hazard on Kenyan roads is quite not allowed into Kenyan national parks and neys. The vehicles themselves can be any-
Most safari companies will also hire out simply the other vehicles on them, and driv- reserves. Jeeps should be fine, but camper thing from dilapidated Peugeot 504 pick-ups
their vehicles, though you have few of the ing defensively is essential. Ironically, the vans may have problems. with a taxi on the back to big 20-seater mini-
guarantees that you would with the com- most dangerous roads in Kenya are prob- buses. The most common are white Nissan
panies listed here. Let’s Go Travel (%020-340331; ably the well-maintained ones, which allow Hitching minibuses (many local people prefer the
www.letsgosafari.com) organises reliable car hire drivers to pick up enough speed to do really Hitchhiking is never entirely safe in any name ‘Nissans’ to matatus).
at favourable rates through partner firms. serious damage in a crash. On the worse country in the world, and we don’t recom- In the bad old days matatus were notori-
On the coast, it is possible to hire motor- roads, potholes are a dual problem: driv- mend it. Travellers who decide to hitch ous for dangerous driving, overcrowding
cycles, scooters and quads at Diani Beach ing into them can damage your vehicle or should understand that they are taking a and general shady business, but in 2003
and Bamburi Beach. cause you to lose control, and sudden erratic small but potentially serious risk; it’s safer then Transport Minister John Michuki
Local and international hire companies: avoidance manoeuvres from other vehicles to travel in pairs and let someone know banned all matatus from the roads until
Avenue Car Hire (Map pp282-3; %020-313207; www are a constant threat. where you are planning to go. Also, beware they complied with a new set of laws, en-
.avenuecarhire.com) On all roads, be very careful of pedestri- of drunken drivers. suring amazingly speedy results. Mata-
Avis (Map pp280-1; %020-316061; www.avis.co.ke) ans and cyclists – you don’t want to contrib- On the other side of the wheel, foreign tus must now be fitted with seatbelts and
Budget (Map pp282-3; %020-223581; www.budget ute any more to the death toll on Kenya’s drivers will be approached all the time by 80kph speed governors, conductors and
-kenya.com) roads. Animals are another major hazard Kenyan hitchers demanding free rides, and drivers must wear clearly identifiable red
Central Rent-a-Car (Map pp282-3; %020-222888; in rural areas. giving a lift to a carload of Maasai is certainly shirts, route numbers must be clearly dis-
www.carhirekenya.com) If you’re driving in remote areas, acacia a memorable cultural experience. played and a 14-person capacity applies to
Glory Car Hire (Map pp282-3; %020-225024; www thorns are a common problem, as they’ll vehicles that used to cram in as many as 30
.glorycarhire.com) pierce even the toughest tyres. The slightest Local Transport people. Frequent police checks have also
Hertz (%020-248777; www.hertz.co.ke) breakdown can leave you stranded for hours BOAT been brought in to enforce the rules.
in the bush, so always carry drinking water, The only local boat service in regular use is The changes are immediately noticeable
PARKING emergency food and, if possible, spare fuel. the Likoni ferry between the mainland and and represent an improvement of sorts, but
In small towns and villages parking is usu- Certain routes have a reputation for ban- Mombasa island, which runs throughout the it hasn’t taken operators long to find loop-
ally free, but there’s a pay-parking system in ditry, particularly the Garsen–Garissa–Thika day and night, and is free for foot passengers holes. Many drivers still also chew miraa
Nairobi, Mombasa and other main towns. road, which is still essentially off limits to (vehicles pay a small toll). leaves to stay awake beyond what is a rea-
Attendants issue one-day parking permits travellers, and the dirt track from Amboseli sonable or safe time.
for around KSh70, valid anywhere in town. National Park to Tsavo West National Park, BODA-BODA Apart from in the remote northern areas,
If you don’t get a permit you’re liable to where you’re usually required to join a con- Boda-bodas are common in areas where where you’ll rely on occasional buses or paid
be wheel-clamped, and getting your vehicle voy. The roads from Isiolo to Marsabit and standard taxis are harder to find, and also lifts on trucks, you can almost always find
back will cost you at least KSh2000. It’s al- Moyale and from Malindi to Lamu have im- operate in smaller towns and cities, such as a matatu going to the next town or further
ways worth staying in a hotel with secure proved considerably securitywise in the last Kisumu. There is a particular proliferation afield, so long as it’s not too late in the day.
parking if possible. few years, but you’re still advised to seek local on the coast, where the bicycle boys also Simply ask around among the drivers at the
advice before using any of these routes. double as touts, guides and drug dealers in local matatu stand or ‘stage’. Matatus leave
ROAD CONDITIONS tourist areas. A short ride should never cost when full and the fares are fixed.
Road conditions vary widely in Kenya, ROAD RULES more than KSh20. Wherever you’re going, remember that
from flat smooth highways to dirt tracks You’ll need your wits about you if you’re most matatu crashes are head-on collisions –
and steep rocky pathways. Many roads are going to tackle driving in Kenya. Driving BUS under no circumstances should you sit in
severely eroded at the edges, reducing the practices here are some of the worst in the Nairobi is the only city with an effective the ‘death seat’ next to the matatu driver.
carriageway to a single lane, which is usually world and all are carried out at breakneck municipal bus service, run by KBS. Routes Play it safe and sit in the middle seats away
occupied by whichever vehicle is bigger in speed. Indicators, lights, horns and hand cover all the suburbs and outlying areas dur- from the window.
© Lonely Planet Publications
456 T R A N S P O R T I N K E N YA • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com 457
SHARED TAXI (PEUGEOT) compartment can be locked from the out-
Shared Peugeot taxis are less common but side, so remember not to leave any valuables
make a good alternative to matatus, though lying around if you leave it for any reason.
they’re not subject to the same regulations. You might want to padlock your rucksack to
The vehicles are usually Peugeot 505 station something during dinner and breakfast. Al-
wagons (hence the local name) that take seven ways lock your compartment from the inside
to nine passengers and leave when full. before you go to sleep. Third class is seats
Peugeots take less time to reach their des- only and security can be a real problem.
tinations than matatus as they fill quicker Passengers in 1st and 2nd class on the
and go from point to point without stop- Mombasa line are treated to the full colonial
ping, and so are slightly more expensive. experience, including a silver-service din-
Many companies have offices around the ner in an old-fashioned dining car. Meals
Accra, Cross and River Rds area in Nairobi, typically consist of stews, curries or roast
and serve destinations mostly in the north chicken served with rice and vegetables, all
K E N YA
K E N YA
and west of the country. dished up by uniformed waiters. There’s al-
ways a vegetarian option. Tea and coffee is
TAXI included; sodas (soft drinks), bottled water
Even the smallest Kenyan towns generally and alcoholic drinks are not, so ask the
have at least one banged-up old taxi for easy price before accepting that KSh1500 bottle
access to outlying areas or even remoter of wine! Cold beer is available at all times in
villages, and you’ll find taxis on virtually the dining car and can be delivered to your
every corner in the larger cities, especially compartment.
in Nairobi and Mombasa, where taking a
taxi at night is virtually mandatory. Fares COSTS
are invariably negotiable and start at around The only downside to the train is the price
KSh200 for short journeys. of tickets, over KSh3000 for 1st class on the
Nairobi–Mombasa route, including meals
Train (dinner and breakfast) and bedding. You
The Uganda Railway was once the main ar- can reduce this considerably by just paying
tery of trade in East Africa, but these days the for the seat, though you’re missing out on
network has dwindled to two main routes, the fun half of the experience that way. The
Nairobi–Kisumu and Nairobi–Mombasa. Kisumu route is much less fancy, and 1st-
Both are night services of around 13 hours, class tickets cost around KSh1500. Reduced
much slower and less frequent than going by rates apply for children aged three to 11.
air or road but considerably more comfort-
able and significantly safer. The trip between RESERVATIONS
Nairobi and Mombasa is still considered one You must book in advance for both 1st and
of the great rail journeys in Africa. 2nd class, otherwise you’ll probably find
there are no berths available; two to three
CLASSES days is usually sufficient. Visa credit cards
There are three classes on Kenyan trains, are accepted for railway bookings. If you
but only 1st and 2nd class can be recom- book by phone, you’ll need to arrive early
mended. Note that passengers are divided to pay for your ticket and make sure you’re
up by gender. actually on the passenger list. Compartment
First class consists of two-berth compart- and berth numbers are posted up about 30
ments with a washbasin, wardrobe, drink- minutes prior to departure.
ing water and a drinks service. Second class There are booking offices (Mombasa %041-
consists of plainer, four-berth compartments 312220; Nairobi %020-221211) in major cities and
with a washbasin and drinking water. No at Kisumu railway station.
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
© Lonely Planet Publications
457
Uganda
Uganda is Africa condensed, with the best of everything the continent has to offer packed
into one small but stunning destination. Uganda is home to the highest mountain range
in Africa, the Rwenzoris or Mountains of the Moon. It is the source of the mighty River
Nile, the world’s longest river, offering the best white-water rafting in the world. It has the
highest concentration of primates in the world, including the majestic mountain gorillas,
one of the rarest animals on earth.
On top of all this, the scenery is so striking that it looks like a watercolour, the beautiful
national parks see far fewer visitors than in neighbouring Kenya and Tanzania, and the
capital Kampala is safer and friendlier than most in Africa. Winston Churchill called it the
‘Pearl of Africa’. He was right.
However, Idi Amin’s antics and Uganda’s long string of tragedies in the 1970s and ’80s
is etched into the Western consciousness to such an extent that some people, wrongfully,
still regard the country as dangerously unstable. The reality is vastly different. Stability has
UGANDA
returned to most parts of the country and tourists are welcomed with open arms.
Despite the trials and tribulations of the past, Ugandans have weathered the storm re-
markably well. You won’t meet a sullen, bitter or cowed people. Rather they are smiling and
friendly, with an openness absent in other places – truly some of the finest folk in Africa.
Uganda is a captivating country with a great deal to offer, and sooner or later the main-
stream masses will ‘discover’ its delights – make sure you get here before they do.
FAST FACTS
Area 236,580 sq km
Capital Kampala
Country code 256
Famous for Idi Amin; source of the River
Nile; white-water rafting
Languages English, Luganda, Swahili
Money Ugandan Shilling (USh);
US$1 = USh1807; €1 = USh2189
Population 27.6 million
ὈὈ
458 U G A N D A • • H i g h l i g h t s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com U G A N D A • • H i s t o r y 459
Uganda
HIGHLIGHTS the wettest month being April. In the north UGANDA 0
0
100 km
60 miles
Bwindi Impenetrable National Park (p523) the wet season is from April to October and
ὈὈὈ Ὀ
Penetrate the Impenetrable Forest to mar- the dry season is from November to March.
vel at the mountain gorillas in the wild. During the wet seasons the average rainfall SUDAN
White-water Rafting (p495) Take on the is 175mm per month. Humidity is generally
wild waters at the source of the Nile, quite low outside the wet seasons. LEGEND Kidepo
simply the best rafting in the world. The best times for a visit to Uganda are GR Game Reserve Valley
NP
FR Forest Reserve
Murchison Falls (p541) Check out the January and February, and June to Septem- NP National Park
WR Wildlife Reserve il e Nimule Kaabong
N
world’s most powerful waterfall on a ber, as the weather during these months is Yumbe
ὈὈ
Ὀ Ὀ
Rom
KENYA
wildlife-watching bonanza on a boat up generally dry. However, travel during the Atiak Kitgum Koputh
rt
Albe
the Victoria Nile. wet seasons to most destinations is also Arua
Acholibur
Kotido
Kampala Nightlife (p483) Party on with the possible, just a bit slower. For more details, DEMOCRATIC Aru
Aswa-Lolim Gulu
Matheniko
Patongo GR
Kampala crew, a vibrant capital brim- see p622. REPUBLIC OF Ajai GR
THE CONGO GR
Bokora
ming with bars, clubs and live music. Ogur
Waiwer
GR Moroto
HISTORY Pakwach
ὅὅὅὅ
Lake Bunyoni (p528) Chill out at the most Karuma
Ὀ
ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ
Aloi
beautiful lake in Uganda, a mythical For the story on Uganda’s history in the Wanseko Paraa Murchison Lira
ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ
ὅ
Budongo Falls
landscape of terraced hillsides and hid- years before independence, see p28. Central NP
Pian-Upe
FR
den bays. t
Butiaba GR
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
r
Independence Bunia
lb
A
e Masindi
Namasale Soroti
ke Kumi
CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO Unlike Kenya and, to a lesser extent, Tan- La Hoima
Lake Kyoga
Mt Elgon
ὅὅὅὅ
As most of Uganda is at a fairly constant al- zania, Uganda never experienced a large NP
Victo ria
ὈὈ
Ὀ Ὀ
titude, with mountains only in the extreme influx of European colonisers and the asso- Bale Mbale Mt Elgon
Kiboga
east (Mt Elgon), extreme west (the Rwen- ciated expropriation of land. Instead, farm- Semuliki NP Semliki
Luwero
(4321m) To
Nairobi
Valley GR
zori Mountains) and close to the Rwandan ers were encouraged to grow cash crops Bundibugyo Fort Portal Tororo
(300km)
Nile
Malaba
Mubende
border, the bulk of the country enjoys the for export through their own cooperative Mt Stanley Kibale Busunju
UGANDA
Beni (5109m)
UGANDA
Forest Busia
same tropical climate, with temperatures groups. Consequently, Ugandan national- Rwenzori
NP Katonga KAMPALA Jinja
WR Lake
averaging about 26°C during the day and ist organisations sprouted much later than Mountains
NP Kasese Wamba
Port Bell
Kasindi Entebbe Equator
about 16°C at night. The hottest months those in neighbouring countries, and when
Ὀ
Bwera
Bukakata
are from December to February, when the they did, it happened along tribal lines. So Kkome
Island
Kisumu
Lake Katunguru
daytime range is 27° to 29°C. It can get exclusive were some of these that when Edward Queen
Masaka Kalangala
Elizabeth NP
considerably cooler at night in the highland Ugandan independence was eventually dis- Ishaka
Lyantonde
Ssese
areas. cussed, the Buganda people even consid- Ishasha Mbarara Lake
Islands
Butogota
The rainy seasons in the south are from ered secession. Bwindi Ntungamo
Mburo
NP LAKE
April to May and October to November, By the mid-1950s, however, a Lango Rutshuru
Impenetrable
NP Mutukula
schoolteacher Dr Milton Obote managed to Kisoro Kabale VICTORIA
Kyaka
put together a loose coalition headed by the Mgahinga Gorilla TANZANIA
Bukoba
HOW MUCH? RWANDA
Uganda People’s Congress (UPC), which NP
Tracking mountain gorillas US$360 led Uganda to independence in 1962 on
the promise that the Buganda would have chief of staff, Idi Amin, to storm the kaba- In 1969 a scandal broke out over US$5
Meal at decent restaurant US$5-15
autonomy. The kabaka (king) became the ka’s palace. The raid resulted in the flight of million in funds and weapons allocated to
National park entry US$20 new nation’s president, Edward Mutesa II, the kabaka and his exile in London, where the Ministry of Defence that couldn’t be ac-
New Vision newspaper US$0.50 and Milton Obote became Uganda’s first he died in 1969. Following this coup, Obote counted for. An explanation was demanded
prime minister. proclaimed himself president, and the Bu- of Amin. When it wasn’t forthcoming, his
White-water rafting US$95
It wasn’t a particularly favourable time gandan monarchy was abolished, along deputy, Colonel Okoya, and some junior
for Uganda to come to grips with independ- with those of the kingdoms of Bunyoro, officers demanded his resignation. Shortly
LONELY PLANET INDEX ence. Civil wars were raging in neighbour- Ankole, Toro and Busoga. Meanwhile, Idi afterwards Okoya and his wife were shot
Litre of petrol US$1 ing southern Sudan, Democratic Republic Amin’s star was on the rise. dead in their Gulu home, and rumours
of the Congo (DR Congo) and Rwanda, began to circulate about Amin’s imminent
Litre of bottled water US$0.50
and refugees streamed into Uganda, adding The Amin Years arrest. It never came. Instead, when Obote
Bell beer US$1 to its problems. Also, it soon became obvi- Under Obote’s watch, events began to spiral left for Singapore in January 1971 to at-
Souvenir T-shirt US$10 ous that Obote had no intention of sharing out of control. Obote ordered his attorney tend the Commonwealth Heads of Govern-
power with the kabaka. A confrontation general, Godfrey Binaisa, to rewrite the con- ment Meeting (CHOGM), Amin staged a
Plate of matoke (mashed plantains)
loomed. stitution to consolidate virtually all powers coup. The British, who had probably suf-
and beans US$0.40 Obote moved in 1966, arresting several in the presidency and then moved to nation- fered most from Obote’s nationalisation
cabinet ministers and ordering his army alise foreign assets. program, were among the first to recognise
460 U G A N D A • • H i s t o r y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com U G A N D A • • H i s t o r y 461
the new regime. Obote went into exile in time international condemnation of the sor- countries breathed a sigh of relief to see the mid-1985 Obote was overthrown in a coup
Tanzania. did regime was strengthening daily, as news madman finally brought to heel. All the staged by the army under the command of
So began Uganda’s first reign of terror. of massacres, torture and summary execu- same Tanzania was forced to foot the entire Tito Okello.
All political activities were quickly sus- tions leaked out of the country. bill for the war, estimated at US$500 million,
pended and the army was empowered to One of the few supporters of Amin at a crushing blow for an already desperately The NRA Takeover
shoot on sight anyone suspected of opposi- the end of the 1970s was Colonel Gaddafi, poor country. Okello was not the only opponent of Obote.
tion to the regime. Over the next eight years who bailed out the Ugandan economy in The rejoicing in Uganda was short-lived. Shortly after Obote became president for the
an estimated 300,000 Ugandans lost their the name of Islamic brotherhood – Amin The Tanzanian soldiers who remained in second time, a guerrilla army opposed to
lives, often in horrific ways: bludgeoned to had conveniently become a Muslim by the country, supposedly to assist with re- his tribally biased government was formed
death with sledgehammers and iron bars, or this stage – and began an intensive drive construction and to maintain law and order, in western Uganda under the leadership of
tortured to death in prisons and police sta- to equip the Ugandan forces with sophisti- turned on the Ugandans when their pay Yoweri Museveni, who had lived in exile in
tions all over the country. Nile Mansions, cated weapons. did not arrive. They took what they wanted Tanzania during Amin’s reign.
next to the Conference Centre in Kampala, The rot had spread too far, however, and from shops at gunpoint, hijacked trucks ar- A group of 27 soon swelled to a guerrilla
became particularly notorious; the screams was beyond the point where a few million riving from Kenya with international relief force of about 20,000, many of them or-
of those who were being tortured or beaten dollars in Libyan largesse could help. Faced aid and slaughtered more wildlife. phaned teenagers. In the early days few gave
to death there could often be heard around with a restless army beset with intertribal Once again the country slid into chaos the guerrillas, known as the National Resist-
the clock for days on end. Prime targets of fighting, Amin looked for a diversion. He and gangs of armed bandits roamed the cit- ance Army (NRA), much of a chance. Few
Amin’s death squads were the Acholi and chose a war with Tanzania, ostensibly to ies, killing and looting. Food supplies ran people outside Uganda even knew of the ex-
Lango tribes, who were decimated in waves teach that country a lesson for supporting out and hospitals could no longer function. istence of the NRA, due to Obote’s success in
of massacres; whole villages were wiped anti-Amin dissidents. It was his last major Nevertheless, thousands of exiled Ugandans muzzling the press and expelling journalists.
out. Next Amin turned on the professional act of insanity and in it lay his downfall. began to answer the new president’s call to The NRA was not a bunch of drunken
classes; university professors and lecturers, return home and help with reconstruction. thugs like the armies of both Amin and
doctors, cabinet ministers, lawyers, busi- War with Tanzania Yusuf Lule, a modest and unambitious Obote had been. New recruits were indoc-
nesspeople and even military officers who On 30 October 1978 the Ugandan army man, was installed as president with Ny- trinated in the bush by political commissars
might have posed a threat to Amin were rolled across northwestern Tanzania vir- erere’s blessing, but when he began speak- and taught that they had to be the servants
UGANDA
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dragged from their offices and shot or sim- tually unopposed and annexed more than ing out against Nyerere, he was replaced by of the people, not their oppressors. Disci-
ply never seen again. 1200 sq km of territory. Meanwhile, the air Godfrey Binaisa, sparking riots supporting pline was tough. Anyone who got badly out
Also targeted was the 70,000-strong Asian force bombed the Lake Victoria ports of Lule in Kampala. Meanwhile, Obote bided of line was executed. Museveni was deter-
community. In 1972 they were given 90 days Bukoba and Musoma. his time in Dar es Salaam. mined that the army would never again dis-
to leave the country with virtually nothing Tanzanian President Julius Nyerere or- Binaisa quickly came under pressure to set grace Uganda. Also, a central thrust of the
but the clothes they wore. Amin and his dered a full-scale counterattack, but it took a date for a general election and a return to NRA was to win the hearts and minds of the
cronies grabbed the billion dollar booty they months to mobilise his ill-equipped and civilian rule. Obote eventually returned from people, who learnt to identify totally with
were forced to leave behind, and quickly poorly trained forces. By early 1979, how- exile to an enthusiastic welcome in many the persecuted Bugandans in the infamous
squandered it on new toys for the boys and ever, he had managed to scrape together a parts of the country and swept to victory Luwero Triangle.
personal excess. Amin then turned on the 50,000-strong people’s militia composed in a blatantly rigged vote. Binaisa went into By the time Obote was ousted and Okello
British, nationalising without compensation mainly of illiterate youngsters from the exile in the USA. had taken over, the NRA controlled a large
US$500 million worth of investments in tea bush. This militia joined with the many It was 1981 and the honeymoon with slice of western Uganda and was a power to
plantations and other industries. Again the exiled Ugandan liberation groups (united Obote proved to be relatively short. Like be reckoned with. Museveni wanted a clean
booty was squandered. only in their determination to rid Uganda Amin, Obote favoured certain tribes. Large sweep of the administration, the army and
Meanwhile the economy collapsed, indus- of Amin). The two armies met. East Africa’s numbers of civil servants and army and the police. He wanted corruption stamped
trial activity ground to a halt, hospitals and supposedly best-equipped and best-trained police commanders belonging to the tribes out and those who had been involved in
rural health clinics closed, roads cracked and army threw down its weapons and fled, and of the south were replaced with Obote sup- atrocities during the Amin and Obote re-
became riddled with potholes, cities became the Tanzanians pushed on into the heart of porters belonging to the tribes of the north. gimes brought to trial. These demands were,
garbage dumps and utilities fell apart. The Uganda. Kampala fell without a fight, and by The State Research Bureau, a euphemism of course, anathema to Okello, who was up
prolific wildlife was machine-gunned by the end of April 1979 organised resistance for the secret police, was re-established and to his neck in corruption and responsible
soldiers for meat, ivory and skins, and the had effectively ceased. the prisons began to fill once more. Obote for many atrocities.
tourism industry evaporated. The stream of Idi Amin fled to Libya, where he remained was on course to complete the destruction The fighting continued in earnest, and by
refugees across the border became a flood. until Gaddafi threw him out following a that Amin had begun. More and more re- late January 1986 it was obvious that Okel-
Faced with chaos and an inflation rate shoot-out with Libyan soldiers. Amin died ports of atrocities and killings leaked out of lo’s days were numbered. The surrender of
that hit 1000%, Amin was forced to delegate in exile in Saudi Arabia in 2003. the country. Mass graves unrelated to the 1600 government soldiers holed up in their
more and more powers to the provincial Amin era were unearthed. The press was barracks in the southern town of Mbarara,
governors, who became virtual warlords in Post-Amin Chaos muzzled and Western journalists were ex- which was controlled by the NRA, brought
their areas. Towards the end of the Amin The Tanzanian action was criticised, some- pelled. It was obvious that Obote was once the NRA to the outskirts of Kampala it-
era, the treasury was so bereft of funds that what half-heartedly, by the Organisation again attempting to achieve absolute power. self. With the morale of the government
it was unable to pay the soldiers. At the same for African Unity (OAU), but most African Intertribal tension was on the rise, and in troops at a low ebb, the NRA launched an
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all-out offensive to take the capital. Okello’s Evidence supports the contention that
troops fled, almost without a fight, though Museveni knew of preparations for the in- THE MOVEMENT FOR THE RESTORATION OF THE 10 COMMANDMENTS OF GOD
not before looting whatever remained and vasion, though he denies it. In any event, the On 17 March 2000 the small village of Kanunga near Rukungiri hit the headlines in what appeared
carting it away in commandeered buses. rebels were thrown back across the border by to be the most serious case of mass suicide since Jonestown, when a church burned to the
It was a typical parting gesture, as was the the Rwandan army, assisted by troops from ground packed full of followers of the Movement for the Restoration of the 10 Commandments
gratuitous shooting-up of many Kampala Belgium, France and DR Congo, and the of God. However, as police probed deeper, it became apparent that this was no mass suicide,
high-rise offices. ensuing witch-hunt of Tutsi inside Rwanda but mass murder. Mass graves were turned up at cult sites throughout the southwest, and a
During the following weeks Okello’s rab- added to the number of refugees inside west- Ugandan Human Rights Commission report released in 2002 put the final death toll at around
ble were pursued and finally pushed north ern Uganda. But the rebels were back in force 800, including at least 340 killed in the church fire.
over the border into Sudan. The civil war shortly afterwards and by early 1993 were in The movement was founded by former prostitute Cledonia Mwerinde in 1994; she and her
was over, apart from a few mopping-up control of around one-third of Rwanda, and lover Joseph Kibwetere built up a popular cult that demanded followers give up their earthly
operations in the extreme north. The long finally came to power following the blood possessions and await the end of the world on 31 December 1999. Just as the ‘millennium’ bug
nightmare was finally over. bath of 1994. came to nothing, so the cult’s prediction never happened, and many followers became sceptical,
demanding the return of property and money.
Rebuilding The 1990s Former followers of the cult who fled before the fire believed Mwerinde killed Kibwetere in
Despite Museveni’s Marxist leanings dating The stability and rebuilding that came with 1999, fearing he had AIDS. She went one step further in 2000, systematically ordering the mass
back to his political science studies in Dar es President Museveni’s coming to power in killing of cult followers in subdistricts before unleashing the final apocalypse at a small church
Salaam in the early 1970s, he has proved to 1986 were followed in the 1990s with eco- in Kanunga. Investigators believe Mwerinde perished in the fire, taking her cult with her into
be a pragmatist since taking control. Despite nomic prosperity and unprecedented growth. the history books.
the radical stand of many of his officers on For much of the decade Uganda was the Something about the Ten Commandments seems to inspire particularly deranged fervour
certain issues, he appointed several arch- fastest-growing economy in Africa, becom- in remote Uganda; Joseph Kony and his Lord’s Resistance Army (LRA) have been battling for a
conservatives to his cabinet and made an ing a favourite among investors. government based on the Ten Commandments since 1986. Believing they are immune to bullets,
effort to reassure the country’s influential One of the keys to the success of the last kidnapping young children as fighters and sex slaves, and mutilating victims suggests that their
Catholic community. few years was the bold decision to invite grip on theology is tenuous to say the least.
In the late 1980s peace agreements were back the Asians who had been so unceremo-
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negotiated with most of the guerrilla fac- niously evicted under Amin. As in Kenya,
tions who had fought for Okello or Obote the Asians had a virtual monopoly on busi- forces with the two main opposition group- fortable than his leadership period prior to
and were still active in the north and north- ness and commerce. Without these people ings, former president Obote’s UPC and the the elections. The reasons for this are related
east. Under an amnesty offered to the rebels, the economy was going nowhere fast, and it Democratic Party (DP), led by Foreign Af- to events both within Uganda and beyond
as many as 40,000 had surrendered by 1988, was clear to Museveni that Uganda needed fairs minister Dr Paulo Ssemogerere. In 1994 its borders, in the civil wars of its neigh-
and many were given jobs in the NRA. In them. Not surprisingly, they were very hesi- the Constituent Assembly voted to limit the bours. At home, one corruption scandal after
the northwest of the country, almost 300,000 tant about returning, but assurances were kabaka’s role to a purely ceremonial and trad- another has blighted the administration,
Ugandans returned home from Sudan. given and kept, and property was and is itional one. and while Museveni has maintained a clean
With peace came optimism – services still being given back to returned Asians or Democratic ‘no-party’ elections were pair of hands, some big heads have rolled.
were restored, factories that had lain idle for their descendants. called for May 1996. Despite strong oppo- Abroad, Uganda found itself mired in Af-
years were again productive, agriculture was In 1993 a new draft constitution was sition from supporters of political parties, rica’s first great war to control the destiny of
back online, the main roads were resurfaced, adopted by the National Resistance Council the elections went ahead. The main candi- the DR Congo and managed to fall out with
and the national parks’ infrastructure was re- (NRC). One surprising recommendation in dates were Museveni and Ssemogerere, who its long time ally, Rwanda. Despite these
stored and revitalised. On the political front, the draft was that the country should adopt had resigned as foreign minister in order to concerns, Museveni remained popular for
all political parties were banned. a system of ‘no-party’ politics for at least an- campaign. For all intents, it was still a party- the stability he brought to the lives of aver-
There was, however, still one thorn in other five years, basically extending Musev- political election, between Museveni’s NRM age Ugandans and he was re-elected head
Museveni’s side: the refugee problem from eni’s National Resistance Movement (NRM) (officially a ‘movement’ and not a political of state in 2001.
neighbouring Rwanda. Western Uganda mandate for that period. However, given the party), and Ssemogerere, being supported
was saddled with some 250,000 refugees potential for intertribal rivalry within a plu- by the former DP in alliance with the im- Uganda Today
who had fled Rwanda’s intermittent tribal ralist system, as history had shown, it was a mensely unpopular (among the Buganda) The debate about the formation of political
conflicts, and feeding and housing them sensible policy. Under the draft constitution, UPC. Museveni won a resounding victory, parties has dominated the agenda in the cur-
was a severe drain on Ugandan resources. a Constituent Assembly was formed, and in capturing almost 75% of the vote. The only rent parliament. Museveni recently shifted
On several occasions Museveni tried hard 1994 elections for the assembly showed over- area where Ssemogerere had any real sup- his position on a return to multi-party poli-
to persuade Rwanda’s President Habyar- whelming support for the government. port was in the anti-NRM north. tics, and in July 2005 a referendum was held
imana to set up a repatriation scheme, but Also in 1993 the Bugandan monarchy was Museveni’s election carried with it great that overwhelmingly endorsed democracy.
to no avail. It seems Museveni’s patience restored, but with no political power. This hope for the future, as many believed Ugan- The fact that voter turnout was tiny seemed
finally snapped, and in late 1990 Rwanda gave rise to concern among the Buganda da’s success story could only continue with to suggest no-one was really that interested
was invaded by a 5000-strong guerrilla that the existence of their tribal kingdom in a genuine endorsement at the ballot box. in the issue.
force from western Uganda, which included the future would be threatened. In protest However, Museveni’s period as a democrat- An issue they definitely were interested in
NRA units and weaponry. against the NRM government, they joined ically elected leader has been far less com- was Museveni’s move to scrap constitutional
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limits on presidential terms. Museveni him- the north. Museveni has continually staked development, and not just development for the south have experienced peace and pros-
self put in place the two-term limit and his reputation on ending the war through Kampala and the elite, but a genuine de- perity for two decades, but Gulu and points
promptly changed his mind as the end of any means necessary, but this has proven velopment in fields such as education and north have been mired in an intractable
his tenure drew closer. MPs were bullied and beyond his reach. Peace talks have been on healthcare that takes the whole country for- cycle of violence as the government fights
bribed into voting for the change, and the and off again, but peace and the LRA seem ward together. against the brutal insurgency of the LRA.
way is now open for Museveni to run again a contradiction in terms. This has destroyed thousands of lives and
in 2006. However, this has not gone down It is not only the LRA that has destabi- THE CULTURE livelihoods, and is holding back develop-
well with donors, old friends and regional lised Uganda’s drive for development. The The National Psyche ment throughout the country. Kampala may
leaders. Museveni’s international stock is threat of the Interahamwe, the remnants of Despite the years of terror and bloodshed, have found peace, but Uganda has not, and
falling faster than a dot.com crash right now, the Rwandan Hutu militia responsible for Ugandans are a remarkably positive and the tribal partisan politics of the past cannot
as Laura Bush and Cherie Blair snubbed him the 1994 genocide (see p567 for more in- spirited people, and no-one comes away be laid to rest until the north and south ex-
on an HIV/AIDS awareness visit to the re- formation), has remained very real, and ex- from the country without a measure of ad- perience peace and prosperity together.
gion, Bob Geldof called for him to go and ploded onto world headlines in 1999 when miration and affection for the people. Edu-
fellow East African politicians voiced their eight tourists were murdered in Bwindi cation levels have traditionally been high by Daily Life
concerns about his ambitions. The latter is Impenetrable National Park. Uganda and African standards and most Ugandans are Ugandans are a very polite and friendly
particularly worrying for Museveni, as trad- Rwanda invaded DR Congo in 1996 and keen debaters, discussing politics and per- people, and will often greet strangers on
itionally African leaders are cagey about helped Laurent Kabila drive then President sonality in equal measure. They are opinion- public transport or in rural areas. This is
criticising each other and this could have Mobutu from power. Kabila soon failed to ated and eloquent during disagreements, yet not just a simple ‘hello’ but also ‘How are
implications for moves towards an inte- deliver on his part of the deal, which was unfailingly polite and engagingly warm. The you?’ or ‘How is your family?’, and the in-
grated East African Community. In Uganda to shore up security in Eastern Congo, and national personality, if a country can be said terest is genuine. Hence, in social situations
some people are worried he is setting himself Rwanda and Uganda launched a second to have one, is in stark contrast to the brutal- it is always best to ask after the wellbeing
to be president for life and draw unflatter- war to remove him from power. This turned ity and bloodshed of the past. of whomever you are introduced to, rather
ing comparisons with Robert Mugabe. But into Africa’s first cross-continental war, as Idi Amin, ‘Big Daddy’, the Last King of than just a simple hello.
maybe everyone is underestimating Presi- neighbours piled in to pick off the country’s Scotland – call him what you will – casts Life in Uganda has been one long series
dent Museveni, who has, after all, pulled unrivalled natural resources. Old friends a long shadow over Uganda both at home of upheavals for the older generations, while
UGANDA
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off many surprises in the past. Inviting the Rwanda and Uganda soon became enemies and abroad. Mention Uganda to the aver- the younger generations have benefited from
Asians back was a bold move that kickstarted and backed rival factions in the bloody age person in the west and it’s still sadly Idi the newfound stability. Society has changed
the Ugandan economy – perhaps he has one civil war. Both countries were accused of Amin that is namechecked first. His char- completely in urban areas in the past couple
more trick up his sleeve? shamelessly plundering DR Congo’s min- acter has become the country’s caricature, of decades, but in the countryside it is often
The other dominant domestic concern eral wealth and their international reputa- although for the majority of Ugandans it is business as usual. Until recently polygamy
has been the ongoing war against insur- tions took a tumble. Uganda finally pulled a past they would rather forget. But the ten- was common, even among non-Muslim
gents within the country. The Lord’s Resist- its troops out in 2002, but has yet to rebuild dency to favour one tribe above another was Ugandans, but with the relative emancipa-
ance Army (LRA) has been fighting a war its former friendship with Rwanda. not confined to his rule and many leaders tion of women in the last decade, few in
in northern Uganda for two decades now Uganda is a country with much promise, contributed to Uganda’s descent into dark- urban areas would now tolerate it.
and the mindless violence shows few signs of but there are a number of tricky hurdles for ness. It only ended with Museveni’s accession This may be in no small part due to the
coming to an end despite peace efforts. The it to overcome before it can fulfil its true to power in 1986, when party politics were impact of HIV/AIDS on sexual patterns in
LRA was supported by the Sudanese govern- potential. Firstly it needs to address the ram- banned. A successful formula for almost two Uganda. One of the first countries to be
ment in Khartoum until 2002, while Uganda pant corruption that continues to plague decades, it remains to be seen what the future struck by an HIV/AIDS outbreak of epi-
for its part supported southern Sudanese government, as this is rattling confidence holds now that the country has embraced full demic proportions, Uganda acted swiftly in
rebels fighting against the Islamic north. among donors and the electorate, as well as democracy once more. promoting AIDS awareness nationwide and
The peace agreement between Sudan and choking development as earmarked funds The ‘Big Man’ school of African politics is safe sex in society. This was very effective in
Uganda was meant to end the wars, which it disappear into deep pockets. better known to Ugandans than most, hav- radically reducing infection rates through-
largely has in southern Sudan, but in north- Secondly, when pluralism does return to ing experienced the ultimate big man in the out the country, and Uganda went from
ern Uganda the LRA stepped up attacks, kill- Uganda, it is to be hoped that a new gen- giant shape of Idi Amin. However, there are experiencing an infection rate of around
ing villagers and brutalising children. The eration of politicians brought up on the no- fears in some quarters that President Mu- 25% in the late 1980s to an infection rate of
LRA’s original aim was to establish a state party system will form their parties based on seveni is venturing down that road. In July as low as 6% today. However, there seems
based on the 10 Commandments, but given policy not pedigree, although the sad truth 2005 the constitution was amended to allow to be a change in the air today, with ab-
they have broken every commandment in is that lines are already being drawn among unlimited presidential terms and it looks like stinence taking precedence over protection
the book, they seemed to have lost touch tribes once again. Museveni will run again in 2006. Uganda and young people being encouraged to wait
with their goal a long time ago. They are one But real political stability is only possible waits with baited breath, but many of the until they are married. All good and well in
of the most vicious insurgent movements if the government can bring the war with the population still supports Museveni for the principle, but teenagers will be teenagers
on the planet, kidnapping children to use LRA to an end within its own borders, and progress he has brought to the country and and anything that dilutes the message of
as soldiers and sex slaves, slicing off lips, avoid costly and unnecessary involvement the lack of any obvious alternative. safe sex is dabbling with danger.
noses and ears to subdue the population, in events beyond its borders. Peace will Despite the evident progress in Uganda, And all this ties into religion. Uganda
and generally laying waste to vast tracts of bring the biggest dividend of all – further it remains a country divided. Kampala and is a spiritual society, and Catholicism and
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Protestantism have always been popular possible to watch occasional international The Abyssinian Chronicles by Moses The land varies from semidesert in the
among the population. However, evangeli- games at the Nelson Mandela Stadium on Isegawa (2001) tells the story of a young northeast to the lush and fertile shores of
cal Christianity has been making inroads in the outskirts of Kampala on the road to Ugandan coming of age during the turbu- Lake Victoria, hemmed in by the Rwenzori
recent years and many of the groups have Jinja. There is also a domestic league, with lent years of Idi Amin and the civil war. It Mountains in the west and the beautiful,
their roots in the US, where the Christian matches held most weekends at the smaller offers some fascinating insights into life in mountainous southwest.
right has flourished under the Bush presi- Nakivubo Stadium opposite the New Taxi Uganda and the transition from a rural ex- The tropical heat is tempered by the al-
dency. Abstinence is in, abortion out and in Park in the centre of Kampala. istence to life in the city. More than a touch titude, which averages more than 1000m in
President Museveni’s wife Janet, Bush may Boxing is very popular in Uganda, and autobiographical, the main character, like much of the country.
have found a fellow traveller. Kassim Ouma is the current IBF light middle- the author, ends up living in the Nether-
Education has been a real priority in weight champion. His is an amazing story lands. More recently, another of his works, Wildlife
Uganda and President Museveni has been of rags to riches, as he was once a child sol- Snakepit, has been translated from Dutch to Uganda is home to more than half the world’s
keen to promote free primary education for dier forced to fight for the LRA. Nicknamed English, a piece of political intrigue telling mountain gorilla population, and viewing
all. It’s a noble goal, but Uganda may lack ‘The Dream’, he now lives in the US. Other the fictional story of the extreme ups and them in their natural environment is one of
the resources to realise it. Sure, more pupils famous boxers from the past include John downs of a high-flying civil servant during the main attractions for visitors to this coun-
are attending class, but often the classes are ‘The Beast’ Mugabi and one Idi Amin. the Amin years. try. For more information on these gentle
hopelessly overcrowded in the countryside Long distance running has never been creatures, their habitat, where to consider
and many teachers lack experience. as big as in Kenya and Ethiopia, but that Music & Dance tracking them, and the dos and don’ts once
Beyond the upwardly mobile urban areas, may all be set to change with the success of Uganda has a lively music scene, and travel- there, see p97. Uganda is also a hotspot for
agriculture remains the single most impor- Docus Inzikuru in the 3000m steeplechase at ling around by bus you will soon be familiar other primates and has some of the cheapest
tant component of the Ugandan economy. the 2005 World Championships. Inzi struck with all the latest local sounds. Chameleon chimp viewing on the continent, as well as
It accounts for 70% of its gross domestic gold and the nation went wild, suggesting is one of the most popular local artists, huge troops of colobus monkeys.
product (GDP) and employs 90% of the more youngsters will take up running in the combining rap and traditional chanting in Uganda is a fantastic country for bird life,
workforce. Coffee, sugar, cotton and tea are coming years. a cutting-edge combination. Several Ugan- with more than 1000 species recorded. It is
the main export crops. Crops grown for dan artists have made a name for themselves one of the best bird-watching destinations
local consumption include maize, millet, RELIGION on the international scene, including Geof- in Africa (if not the world), and it is quite
UGANDA
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cassava, sweet potato, beans and cereals. While about two-thirds of the population frey Oryema, based in Paris, who sings in possible to see several hundred species dur-
is Christian, a large number of rural people English and his native language Acholi. His ing a two-week visit; with a keen eye, some
Population still practise animism (a belief in the spirits influences include tribal and traditional, as binoculars and a field guide, of course. For
Uganda’s estimated population of 27.6 mil- of the natural world), and there’s a small well as Western pop, making for an eclectic bird-watchers coming to Uganda, the shoe-
lion people is increasing at the rapid rate of percentage who follow Islam. There were mix. For more on music in Ugandan, check bill stork is one of the most sought-after
close to 2.5% per annum. It is made up of large numbers of Sikhs and Hindus in the out www.musicuganda.com. birds, but there are many other rare and
a complex and diverse range of tribes. Lake country until Asians were expelled in 1972, Kampala is the best place to experience interesting species to be seen throughout
Kyoga forms the northern boundary for and many have returned following the presi- live music and several local bands play at the country.
the Bantu-speaking peoples, who dominate dential invitation. nightclubs each weekend. Best of all is the
much of East, central and southern Africa jam session at the National Theatre every National Parks & Reserves
and, in Uganda, include the Buganda (17%) ARTS Monday – see p483 for more details Uganda has an excellent collection of na-
and several other tribes, like the Bugosa (8%) Cinema The most famous dancers in the coun- tional parks and reserves. While they may
and Bagisu. In the north are the Lango (near A Hollywood film crew was in town during try are the Ndere Troupe. Made up from a not be bursting with wildlife like in Kenya
Lake Kyoga) and the Acholi (towards the Su- our last visit to shoot a big screen version kaleidoscope of tribes in Uganda, they per- or Tanzania, they are also not bursting with
danese border), who speak Nilotic languages. of The Last King of Scotland (see Literature, form traditional dances from every region visitors, which makes them an altogether
To the east are the Iteso (8%) and Karamo- below). Starring Forrest Whitaker as the of the country. For more on where to catch a more relaxing place to be. They also offer
jong, who are related to the Maasai and who ‘Big Daddy’, this should help to put Uganda performance of the Ndere Troup, see p484. quite different experiences to those in neigh-
also speak Nilotic languages. Small numbers on the movie-making map, as all the loca- bouring countries: viewing the mountain
of pygmies live in the forests of the west. tions are right here in the ‘pearl of Africa’. ENVIRONMENT gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable National
There is a sizeable community of Asians The Land Park, the chimps in Kibale Forest National
in Uganda, who first settled here generations Literature Uganda is a blizzard of greens, a lush land- Park or Budongo Central Forest Reserve,
ago during the days of the British Empire. The Last King of Scotland by Giles Foden scape of rolling hills blanketed with fertile and the Nile’s Murchison Falls are all high-
Expelled by Idi Amin in 1971, President (1998) is a must for every visitor planning fields. Uganda has an area of 236,580 sq km, lights not to be missed. Uganda’s commu-
Museveni invited them to return and re- a trip to Uganda. This bestseller chronicles small by African standards, but a similar nity reserves are protected areas run by and
claim their property, and this has driven the the experience of Idi Amin’s personal doc- area to Britain. Lake Victoria and the Vic- for the benefit of local communities, a form
Ugandan economy forward. tor, as he slowly finds himself becoming toria Nile River, which flows through much of community-based ecotourism. Wildlife
confidant to the dictator. It is based on a of the country, combine to create one of the numbers may have declined dramatically
SPORT true story and affords the reader a number most fecund areas in Africa. The highest during the years of turmoil, but the parks
The most popular sport in Uganda, as in of quirkyinsights into life in Uganda under peak is Mt Stanley (5109m) in the Rwenzori are in good shape and animal numbers are
most of Africa, is football (soccer) and it is Idi Amin. Mountains on the border with DR Congo. on the rise (see p543).
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be observed by all visitors to the country’s
STALKING THE SHOEBILL national parks: NATIONAL PARK FEES
For anyone with a keen interest in birds, Do not camp or make campfires, except Park Per day (US$) Per two days (US$) Per three or more days (US$)
there is no more important bird to see in at official sites.
Uganda than the unique shoebill stork. Do not drive off the tracks. Bwindi Impenetrable 20 30 50
Also known as the whale-head stork, this Do not disturb wildlife by sounding the Kibale Forest 20 30 50
peculiar-looking bird has a gigantic, broad car horn. Kidepo Valley 20 30 50
bill that aids it in catching prey in the Do not drive in the parks between 7.15pm Lake Mburo 15 25 30
water. Its favoured diet is the lungfish, but and 6.30am. Mgahinga Gorilla 20 30 50
it also eats amphibians and small reptiles, Do not bring dogs or other pets into the Mt Elgon 15 25 30
including baby crocodiles (assuming mum parks. Murchison Falls 20 30 50
and dad aren’t around!) and snakes. Shoe- Do not discard litter, burning cigarette Queen Elizabeth 20 30 50
bills are not all that common in Uganda. ends or matches. Rwenzori Mountains 20 30 50
However, if you visit an area where they’re Do not bring firearms or ammunition Semuliki 15 25 30
found, there is a good chance of a sighting, into the parks.
as they hunt by waiting motionless around Do not pick flowers or cut or destroy any Vehicle Foreign-registered (US$) Ugandan-registered (USh)
papyrus swamps and marshes. vegetation.
The best places to see the shoebill stork Do not exceed the parks’ speed limit of motorcycle 15 5
in Uganda include: the Nabajjuzzi swamp 40km/h. car 20 6
just out of Masaka on the way to Mbarara; minibus 50 15
the banks of the Victoria Nile River in Mur- Uganda’s park entry fees are fairly reason- 4WD & pick-up 40 15
chison Falls National Park; the shores of able compared with those of its bigger neigh- tour-company vehicle 100 10
Lake Albert in Semliki Valley Game Reserve; bours. However, it is the hidden extras that bus & truck 200 100
and around Lake Kikorongo in Queen quickly add up and make visiting the na-
Elizabeth National Park. Should all else fail, tional parks an expensive experience. See the Entry fees are per person and include overnight and until 6pm the following day. ISIC card holders
UGANDA
UGANDA
try the Ugandan Wildlife Education Centre boxed text (opposite) for fees that apply to all receive a 25% discount. Group discounts are offered for 10 or more people. For details of fees for
in Entebbe for a guaranteed sighting. national parks; for more details on specific reserves, see the relevant sections in this chapter.
costs in individual national parks, including
for climbing and trekking, see the relevant
While the low number of visitors is a sections in this chapter. All prices are lower irregular to say the least. However, a number Environmental Issues
great bonus, it’s also a disadvantage that the for Ugandan residents and much lower again of the parks are simple to get to without your With its relatively low population density
infrastructure of the parks is less developed for Ugandan citizens. own transport and are easily manageable on and scarcity of wildlife, the latter courtesy
than elsewhere in the region – the luxury Entry fees are reasonable and decrease by foot once there, including Kibale Forest, of the decimation that occurred during the
lodges and tented camps common in the the day; a stay of a week or more costs as Mgahinga Gorilla and Mt Elgon National bad old days, Uganda lacks many of the en-
parks of Kenya and Tanzania are few and little as US$50. For vehicles, a one-off entry Parks. Murchison Falls National Park is also vironmental pressures faced by others in the
far between here. Also, the organised safari payment is required. Transport hire within now much easier to reach, as there are budget region. The absence of any notable numbers
options, especially for budget travellers, are the parks is USh2500 per kilometre for safaris available through the hostels in Kam- of tourists in the last 20 years means that the
much more limited. Despite this many of 4WDs. In the larger parks, rangers are avail- pala. Queen Elizabeth and Lake Mburo Na- national parks and wilderness areas are gen-
the parks are relatively easy to visit, and able for wildlife drives and the charge is tional Parks are hard to travel to and explore erally in good shape, and conditions are ideal
the rewards are ample for those who make US$5 per vehicle for a half-day trip and without transport, although with patience or for the native wildlife to re-establish itself.
the effort. US$10 for a full day. good timing it can be done. Kidepo Valley Uganda is therefore ideally placed to en-
Uganda Wildlife Authority (Map p471; UWA; Also available are launch trips to Mur- and Bwindi Impenetrable National Parks are sure that the environment remains in good
%041-346287; www.uwa.or.ug; 7 Kira Rd; h8am-1pm chison Falls (US$15) and along the Kazinga also tough to reach without transport, but condition. Programs are already in place for
& 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat), with its head- Channel in Queen Elizabeth National Park once you’re there, exploration is straightfor- the responsible management of the national
quarters based near the Uganda Museum (US$10). ward – Bwindi due to its size, and Kidepo parks and reserves and community tourism
in Kampala, administers the national parks. Valley because much of the wildlife is con- projects around the country are bringing the
It covers all of Uganda’s protected areas. ACCESS centrated around the Apoka headquarters. local population onboard.
This is the place to make bookings to see Access is the big headache when it comes to In the long term it is to be hoped that One of the main environmental issues in
the gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable and visiting many of Uganda’s protected areas. the UWA wakes up to the fact that it is los- Uganda centres on electricity supply, and on
Mgahinga Gorilla National Parks. In ad- In order to visit many of the larger parks, it ing revenue by not providing transport be- construction of the dams required to fulfil
dition to information on the gorillas, the really helps to have your own vehicle, both tween park headquarters and nearby towns. demand. The most contentious of them all
office also has useful free leaflets on each for entry into the park and then exploring It would not be that difficult to operate a is the proposed Bujagali Falls Dam, which
of the national parks. the park once inside. Even the smaller parks daily shuttle between places like Masindi and will wipe out many of the rapids that makes
The UWA has its own version of the gen- are not always easy to reach, as transport Paraa (for Murchison Falls) and Katunguru Uganda one of the world’s leading white-
eral guidelines listed on p75, these should to these remote, sparsely inhabited areas is and Mweya (for Queen Elizabeth). water rafting destinations.
470 K A M PA L A • • H i s t o r y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K A M PA L A 471
Kampala
FOOD & DRINK
0.5 miles
KAMPALA
To Bugolobi (3km);
Red Chilli Hideaway
(4km); Port Bell (9km)
40
To Lugogo Mall (200m);
Mukono (30km);
Jinja (80km)
Kabalagala
800 m
Munyonyo (5km);
To Fasika (200m);
Capital Pub (200m);
Al’s Bar (500m); Half London (500m);
UCOTA (500m); Le Petit Bistro (1.5km);
Tank Hill (2km);
International Hotel (3km);
Speke Resort (5km)
Ethiopian Village (400m);
Local food is much the same as elsewhere in
ὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
Ὀ ὈὈὈ
39
41
the region, except that in Uganda ugali (food
ll Rd
%041 / pop 1.2 million
t Be
staple made from maize or cassava flour) is
17
d
Por
sR
called posho, and is far less popular than ma- Kampala is a dynamic and engaging city, the
Rd 5
F
as
Old
Kibuli
-p
toke (mashed plantains). Beyond cosmopol- centre of political intrigue, commercial ac- Ave
By
St
ja
Jin
go
a
o
itan Kampala, you’ll only have the choice of tivity and intellectual excellence in Uganda. pew
joky
o
ce
Lu g Wam
enden
Kam
cheap local food, or more expensive Western Today’s forward-looking capital is vastly
Tce Park
Centenary
ga
Ὀ ὈὈ
ὈὈ
Indep
Park
un
33
food from the upmarket hotels and lodges. different from the battered city to which it
Rd
2
12
ay
0
0
Tce
e
Press Hous
ya St
Dr
rK
Indian food is pretty common throughout was reduced to in the 1980s. In the period
Bu Kisimenti
St
43
lolo
Kololo Hill
ve
Nsambya
ololo
a Rd
ton
29 Kamj ok
Ri
Uganda, but other international cuisines are since Museveni’s victory, Kampala has been
r Ko
Kololo
Rd
win
Course
Gab
Golf
er K
De
Rd
See Central Kampala Map (p472)
Philip
Lowe
only really found in the capital. transformed from a looted shell to a thriving, ua
St
Rd
4
ab
to
Upp
9
ko
M
ja
Most local dishes are meat-based, so vege- modern place befitting the capital of the pearl
d
Rd
Jin
R
38
ule
er
30
Station
Dr
Train
Rd 32 p
fL
ra Ac Coo
10
tarians will have little else other than posho, of Africa – the infrastructure is rehabilitated, cia su
37
E
15
s Yu
Windsor Cre
Rd
ὈὈὈ
Ὀ
31
matoke and the occasional Indian dish to mobile phones are de rigueur, and the shops Rd
To Blue Mango (700m);
Kibuli
a
Baha'í Temple (3km)
by
Ki
choose from. For more info on local cuisine, and markets are once again well stocked. Ns
am
l
ne
1
see p41. Modern buildings have sprung up all over
an
11
Ch
To Volts (500m);
Entebbe (35km);
Nakasero
22
Airport (40km)
te
Soft drinks (sodas) are everywhere, the the city and old, dilapidated ones are stead-
tan
Rd
Nakayima
Ki
ule
most popular being the international giants, ily being renovated. And it is not only the Rd
fL
Mulago
Katwe
7
su
Rd
plus regional favourites, Krest (lemon soda) buildings that are in better shape; there is a
23
36
Yu
8
26
la
and Stoney (ginger beer). Like all East Afri- confidence about Kampala residents today
35
pa
Ὀ
d
e R
m
Way
6
Rd Nakasero Rd
Ka
ens
cans, Ugandans love their beer, and, merci- that is infectious, and the nightlife in the city Bua d Que
13
d
agw
ba R
21
Rd St
ll R
Aki ya Lum um
Hi
Katanga
fully, they don’t have a fetish for drinking is something to savour. Kampala has some e
Ky
h eg
ort th
o
d Sou
lag
D
an
Namirembe Rd
N
34
Rd
u
W
Mengo-Kisenyi
the stuff warm – if a town has electricity you excellent international restaurants, includ-
M
e Bombo Rd
ul
fL
42
can be sure it will have a fridge, and this will ing some of the best Indian eateries on the su
UGANDA
Yu
UGANDA
l
Channe
Rd
have beer in it! African continent. Bombo
bo
ivu
Nak
Uganda Breweries and Nile Breweries are One of the best aspects about Kampala,
ὈὈ
the two local companies, and they produce though, is that it’s pretty safe to walk around
19
University
Makerere
some drinkable lagers. Bell is a light beer during the day in virtually any part of the
Rd
Gulu (342km)
16
To Masindi
renowned for its ‘Great night, good morn- capital. The city is green and verdant, and
(213km);
Hill
ing’ advertising campaign. Nile Special, with the people are very friendly, all adding up
irembe d
(Sse Kabaka's)
R
Tombs (1km)
re
44
an alcohol content of 5.6%, is substantially to a great place to spend some time. a Rd
ere
To Kasubi
Hoim
28
Bakuli
a Rd
Kaggw
ak
C
Sir Apollo Rd
stronger. For the brave (or stupid), there is The worst thing about Kampala is the traf-
M
a
al
Nam
24
also Chairman’s ESB, a potent brew with fic. Near gridlock descends on the city dur-
ag
Rd
nj
ka
aga
Pavement Tandoori..................(seeRd29)
Luisun Supermarket...................34 D2
Mamba Point.............................35 D2
Kim 36 D3
Uganda Crafts...........................42 D2
Cineplex....................................(see 4)
Gateway Buses...........................44 C3
Krua Thai....................................31 E1
La Fontaine.................................32 E1
Le Chateau.................................33 F4
37 E1
38 E1
Ange Noir...................................39 F2
Club Obbligato...........................40 F2
Club Silk.....................................41 F2
Akamba Buses............................43 E3
an alcohol content of 7.2%. You’ll also find ing rush hour and it can take more than an
18
ba
27
Rub
Ka
Hospital
14
Mengo
locally brewed South African Castle beer hour to break out. The valleys fill up with the
era
Bubbles O'Leary's.......................
Just Kickin'..................................
Shoprite.....................................
and Tusker Malt, plus local brews Pilsner belching fumes of the minibuses and some
To Gallery Cafe (2km);
Balintuma Rd
Nakulabye
Fort Portal (322km);
Rd
Mbarara (283km);
and Club. Bottled beer costs USh1500 to days you can chew the air.
Namirembe
Masaka (137km);
e R
Rubaga
a
Kabale (430km)
Kasubi
em
nt
tet
USh2500 a bottle, depending on where Rd Se
Na
Mutesa
ENTERTAINMENT
Rd
you’re drinking. HISTORY Rd
Hoima Rd
siro
Mengo
la
ga
TRANSPORT
Waragi is the local millet-based alcohol The capital suffered a great deal during the
Ma
la
SHOPPING
bu
DRINKING
Na
Rd
Rd
B
and is relatively safe, although it can knock years of civil strife following Idi Amin’s defeat a ya
lem an
25
20
you around and give you a horrible hang- at the hands of the Tanzanian army in 1979. Ka gw
ta
Mu
over. It is a little like gin and goes down The turmoil only ended with the victory of
Banana Boat.............................(see 29)
Fez Brasserie............................(see 26)
Let's Go Travel...........................(see 4)
Ethiopian Embassy........................3 D1
Kenyan High Commission............6 D2
Rwandan Embassy.......................7 D1
Sudanese Embassy.......................8 D2
Volcanoes Safaris....................... 13 D2
Temple.................................. 21 D3
Uganda Safari Company............23 D2
D2
Aristoc.......................................(see 4)
Adventure Centre....................(see 11)
Buganda Parliament...................14 C3
Kabaka's Palace.........................16 C4
Namirembe Cathedral................18 C3
(Under Construction)..............19 C3
Ugandan National Court............24 C4
C3
C3
Rubaga Cathedral......................20 B4
B4
British Embassy.............................1 E1
DR Congo Embassy......................2 F2
Garden City Complex...................4 E2
Immigration Office.......................5 F3
Surgery.........................................9 E2
Tanzanian High Commission......10 E2
Uganda Wildlife Authority..........11 E1
US Embassy................................12 F4
Golf Club....................................15 E2
Kibuli Mosque............................17 F4
Uganda Museum........................22 E1
Crocodile....................................29 E1
Khana Khazana...........................30 E1
well with a splash of tonic. In its undis- Yoweri Museveni’s NRA in early 1986.
Backpackers Hostel.....................25
Emin Pasha Hotel.......................26
Namirembe Guest House...........27
Regency Kampala Hotel.............28
tilled form, it is known as kasezi bong and Unless you’ve had previous experience
would probably send you blind if you drank of upheavals like these, it’s hard to believe
Shree Swaminarayan Mandir
enough of it. the amount of gratuitous destruction and
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Imported wines are quite expensive and looting that went on: office blocks and gov-
KAMPALA
National Mosque
not that common beyond Kampala or the ernment offices had the bulk of their win-
INFORMATION
top-end accommodation options in na- dows shattered; the buildings were riddled
A
SLEEPING
tional parks and towns around the country. with bullets; plumbing, electrical fittings
EATING
Imported spirits are relatively cheaper, al- and telephone receivers were ripped from
though, like wine, availability is somewhat walls; buses were shot up and abandoned;
2
3
1
4
restricted. and shops were looted of everything.
ὈὈ
472 K A M PA L A • • O r i e n t a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K A M PA L A • • I n f o r m a t i o n 473
Central Kampala
0 400 m
CENTRAL KAMPALA 0 0.2 miles
INFORMATION
Aristoc........................................ 1 C2
Hotel Equatoria.......................(see 37)
Hotel Sun City...........................24 A1
ENTERTAINMENT
Cineplex....................................49 B2
12 Barclays Bank.............................. 2 C2 L'Hotel Fiancée.........................25 B2 Kampala Casino........................50 C2
A B C D Ki
ὈὈ
20 ta
46 8
nt
e Belgian Embassy.....................(see 65) New Gloria Hotel......................26 A1 Musicians Club 1989..............(see 51)
d
Nakivub
eR 52 Rd
Prin
Centenary Rural Development Nile Hotel..................................27 D1 National Theatre.......................51 D1
Ssezibwa Rd
26 gw Cl
9 em
Kya en
ces
Na
Bank....................................... 3 C2 Sheraton Hotel..........................28 C1
Vi
t
ct
37 Sia
sA
ka
William
or
dB
o
Colour Chrome............................4 B1 Speke Hotel.............................. 29 C2 SHOPPING
Hil
53
se
ia
arr
ve
36
ro
1 eA
lR
G
Cha
Lu
Crane Bank.................................5 B2 Tourist Hotel.............................30 B2 African Village........................(see 31)
Ave
Rd
eo ve Crested Crane
d
m
11 rg
um
nne
6 e 7 27 Towers Daisy's Arcade.............................6 B1 Exposure Africa.........................(see 6)
St
ba
St
Bu Ave
l
Danish Embassy...........................7 B1 EATING Nommo Gallery.........................52 C1
Ave
58 ga e Nile
Ka
31 nd Av 28 Nile Ave
65
m
a nan Jubilee Av
e Express Uganda......................(see 28) 1000 Cups Coffee House...........31 B1 Uganda Arts & Crafts Village..(see 51)
pa
Rd Ter
Na
la
Mac
22 le 51 French Embassy...........................8 B1 Antonio's..................................32 B2
Ni
e
Park
Rd
kiv
ar
24 4
qu
kay Rd
Alle
ub
t International Medical Centre.......9 A1 Bancafe.....................................33 B2 TRANSPORT
eS
29 17 nS
oR
nto
n R
Th
33 68
wi Main Post Office...................... 10 C2 Café Pap................................... 34 C2 Air Burundi.............................(see 64)
d
21 64
De
d
56 Nakivubo Post Office................11 A1 Canaan Restaurant................... 35 C2 Air Tanzania...........................(see 66)
W
49 e
16 Av
ils
South
32 14 57 Kimat 41
Speke Rd
nt Rd
on
hi Ave South African High Commission..12 B1 Chicken Inn............................(see 42) British Airways...........................53 C1
60 50 59 me ja
Rd
Jin
St
19 61 44 23 5 15 rlia Speedwing Travel Bureau.......(see 57) Chipper's..................................36 A1 Busscar......................................54 B2
10 Pa
Colville
Namirembe Rd 66 39 55
Ka
mpala 48 Stanbic Bank............................. 13 C2 Chopsticks................................37 A1 Eagle Air...................................55 C2
2 1
Rd 42 34
Nak
Standard Chartered Bank.......... 14 C2 Debonair's..............................(see 43) Egypt Air.................................(see 33)
Dastur St
Luwum 40
St
St 2
ivub
Stadium 62 Train Uganda Tourist Board............... 15 C2 Domino's Pizza......................... 38 D2 Emirates....................................56 C2
47 63 Station
t
38
n S
43 13
oP
25 Mark 30 3 35 45
Uganda Travel Bureau............(see 50) Fang Fang.................................39 C2 Ethiopian Airlines......................57 C2
St et St 67
nel
l
rto
han 54 Nkrumah Rd Web City Café.......................... 16 C2 Haandi...................................... 40 D2 Gulf Air...................................(see 57)
Bu
C
Western Union.........................(see 3) Mama Mia..............................(see 29) Hertz......................................(see 39)
18
Masala Chaat House................ 41 D2 Jaguar Executive Coaches.........58 A1
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Nando's....................................42 C2 Kenya Airways.......................... 59 D2
Afri Tours & Travel...................(see 6) Steers....................................... 43 C2 KLM.......................................(see 59)
ORIENTATION top of which stands the Anglican cathedral, African Pearl Safaris................(see 15) Tricia's Terrace.........................(see 6) Main Bus Station...................... 60 A2
Like Rome, Kampala is built on seven hills, and nearby is the Backpackers Hostel. Buganda Parliament Building.... 17 D2 Vasili's Bakery.........................(see 42) New Taxi Park.......................... 61 A2
although that is where the comparisons South of the city centre, across the train Hindu Temple...........................18 B2 Old Taxi Park............................62 B2
Mosque.................................... 19 A2 DRINKING Regional Coach.........................63 C2
begin and end. Most visitors spend their tracks, lie Kabalagala and Tank Hill, where Midland Guesthouse.................44 B2 Scandinavian Express................ 64 C2
time on just one of the hills – Nakasero, in there are some midrange hotels, good restaur- SLEEPING On the Rocks..........................(see 29) SN Brussels Air...........................65 B1
UGANDA
UGANDA
the city centre. The top half of this hill is ants and some of the city’s wildest bars. Fang Fang Hotel........................20 C1 Rouge....................................... 45 D2 South African Airways.............. 66 C2
Grand Imperial Hotel................ 21 C2 Sabrina's Pub............................46 A1 Special Hire Taxis......................67 B2
a type of garden city, with wide, quiet av- The biggest orientation obstacle is the Havana Hotel ...........................22 A1 Sax Pub.....................................47 B2 Sudan Airways........................(see 50)
enues lined with flowering trees, and large, frequency with which street names seem to Hotel City Square......................23 B2 Slow Boat Pub.......................... 48 C2 United Airlines..........................68 C2
detached houses behind imposing fences change. Several streets in the city centre have
and hedges. Here you’ll find many of the at least two names depending on which sign
embassies, international aid organisations, you are looking at. Emergency Surgery (Map p471; %/fax 041-256003, emergency
top-end hotels, the high court and govern- Police or ambulance (%999) %075-756003; [email protected]; 2 Acacia Dr;
ment buildings. Maps h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat, 10am-noon Sun)
Between Nakasero and the lower part of The best available map of Kampala is Mac- Internet Access Run by Dr Dick Stockley, resident medical expert in The Eye
the city is Kampala’s main thoroughfare – millan’s Kampala Tourist Map (1:8500). It’s It’s hard to walk far in Kampala without trip- magazine, this well-respected clinic stocks self-test malaria
Kampala Rd (which turns into Jinja Rd to the not exactly bang up to date, but covers the ping over an Internet café. Prices cost USh20 kits for those heading into remote areas for long periods.
east and Bombo Rd to the west). On this road whole city. Also useful for those just passing to USh40 per minute and many places offer
are the main banks, the main post office, lots through is Macmillan’s Uganda Traveller’s discounts on weekends. Red Chilli Hideaway Money
of shops, and a few hotels and restaurants. Map (1:1,350,000), which covers the entire offers free Internet access to guests, which is Kampala Rd is where most of the banks and
Below Kampala Rd, towards the bottom country and includes a useful Kampala street popular. Also recommended: many foreign exchange bureaus are located.
of the valley, are heaps of shops and small map inset. Both are available in bookshops Chipper’s (Map p472; Kampala Rd) One of the cheapest The foreign exchange bureaus generally stay
businesses, budget hotels, the market, Hindu in Kampala and cost about USh8000. places in the city, enjoy an ice cream at the same time. open longer than the banks, and offer com-
temples, and the bus station and taxi parks. Web City Café (Map p472; Kimathi Ave) The biggest op- petitive rates with no commission. Rates at
It’s a completely different world to that on INFORMATION eration in the city with 30 terminals and a fast connection. the main bureaus are listed in the daily New
the upper side of Kampala Rd. Here there are Bookshops Vision newspaper. Other than the foreign
congested streets thronging with people, bat- For English-language publications Aristoc Medical Services exchange bureaus, the best exchange rates
tered old minibuses, impromptu street mar- (Map p472; Kampala Rd) is the best place in Kam- There are two well-known surgeries for are generally offered by Crane Bank (Map p472),
kets and pavement stalls. There are hawkers, pala. Its shelves are filled to capacity with medical treatment in Kampala. which has a branch at Speke Hotel that is
newspaper sellers, hustlers, and one of the books and maps on Uganda, East Africa International Medical Centre (Map p472; %041- open daily until at least 8.30pm. However,
most mind-boggling and seemingly chaotic and beyond, plus novels and educational 341291, emergency %077-741291; [email protected] for small bills, Barclays Bank offers the same
taxi parks you’re ever likely to see. texts. Prices are pretty reasonable for im- .ug; h24hr) Housed in the Kampala Pentecostal Church rates as for large bills, which makes it the best
To the east, across the golf course, is ported books, so stock up here for reading building opposite Hotel Equatoria, this clinic is run by Dr place to change US$20 and smaller notes.
Kololo, a fairly exclusive residential area, and material before a long road trip. There is Ian Clarke. It offers professional medical services, including Amex travellers cheques can be changed
the popular Cooper Rd area with its restaur- also a second branch in the Garden City dependable malaria smears. It operates an ambulance at Standard Chartered Bank (Map p472) branches
ants and bars. To the west is Namirembe, on Complex. service in an emergency. in the city. The head office is opposite the
474 K A M PA L A • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K A M PA L A • • S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s 475
Grand Imperial Hotel. Other banks are Ucota operates a number of community camping grounds SCAMS
not that keen on changing cheques, but on the periphery of Uganda’s national parks. The office is It is quite common to meet children around THE NAKED TRUTH ABOUT CRIME IN
Barclays and Crane can usually deal with quite a way out of the centre of the city up the Gaba Rd. the city asking for sponsorship for school- KAMPALA
smaller sums and Thomas Cook travellers Uganda Tourist Board (Map p472; UTB; %041-342196; ing, often claiming to be refugees from Some of Africa’s capitals are notorious for
cheques. www.visituganda.com; 15 Kimathi Ave; h8am-1pm & Sudan or Somalia. While some cases may be muggings and robberies, but Kampala has
Barclays Bank (Map p472; Kampala Rd) For US-dollar 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm Sat) The nerve centre of genuine, locals say that many are bogus and never been one of them. At last the reasons
or Ugandan-shilling credit-card cash advances, head here. tourism promotion in Uganda. Staff are quite well informed, begging on behalf of their parents. Worse have been exposed and they are pretty re-
It offers the equivalent of US$700 per day, but at a hefty although there’s not a whole lot of printed information to still, others say that waving the paper in vealing. In many African cities, thieves are
commission of US$15 or USh30,000. take away. your face is simply a diversion for a spot of dealt with through mob justice, and lynch-
Centenary Rural Development Bank (Map p472; 7 sneak theft, so keep your eyes open. ings are not uncommon throughout the
Entebbe Rd) Western Union money transfers are available. Travel Agencies continent. However, Ugandans have opted
Express Uganda (Map p472; %041-236767) At the For information on tour operators offering SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES for something a little less final and a little
Sheraton Hotel, this is the Amex agent. tours and safaris in Uganda, see p95. Low key is the phrase to remember here. more humiliating – stripping thieves down
Standard Chartered Bank (Map p472) Another main Let’s Go Travel (Map p471; %041-346667; www.letsgo What is on offer in Kampala is fairly limited to their ‘Adam suits’ or ripping all their
bank offering credit-card compatible ATMs, with a maxi- safari.com; [email protected]; 1st fl, Garden City when compared with the amazing attrac- clothes off in public.
mum daily withdrawal of USh400,000. The ATMs aren’t Complex) Part of a global empire. tions elsewhere in the country. Unless, of Several cases of these mob strips are re-
always reliable, so it is best to use them during business Speedwing Travel Bureau (Map p472; %041-231052; course, you consider a night on the town an ported each day in Kampala’s newspapers
hours in case of a problem. [email protected]; 1 Kimathi Ave) For airline tickets, this activity, then Kampala competes with the and even a few women have fallen victim
is a reliable stop for fair prices. best of them! to this brand of instant justice. Officially the
National Parks Office Uganda Travel Bureau (Map p472; UTB; %041-232555; police are trying to discourage this prac-
Uganda Wildlife Authority (Map p472; UWA; %041- www.utb.co.ug; Kimathi Ave) Not to be confused with Kasubi Tombs tice, as they feel that mob justice often
346287; www.uwa.or.ug; 7 Kira Rd; h8am-1pm & the nearby tourist office, this is a private agent offering The Kasubi Tombs (Sse kabaka’s Tombs; Kasubi Hill; fails to discriminate between the guilty and
2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Looks after the country’s worldwide ticketing services. admission USh3000; h8am-6pm), just off Masiro innocent.
national parks and protected areas. It recently moved into Rd, were first built in 1881 and are worth a There is a prevalent view held by most
a flagship headquarters near the Uganda Museum. DANGERS & ANNOYANCES look for a dose of traditional culture. There Kampala citizens that it is not only the mob
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Kampala is a fairly safe city as far as Africa’s are several huge traditional reed and bark who have difficulty discriminating between
Post capitals go. Incidents can and sometimes cloth buildings of the kabakas of the Bu- the guilty and innocent. Police corruption is
Main post office (Map p471; cnr Kampala & Speke Rds; do happen, like anywhere else in the world, ganda people. The group of buildings con- a subject of concern for the Ugandan gov-
h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat) Offers postal and so it pays not to have all your valuables tains the tombs of Muteesa I, his son Mwanga ernment. However, police chiefs downplay
telecom services. The poste restante service is well organised on you in poorly lit areas at night. Take (Sir Daudi Chwa II) and his son Edward corruption in the force; one officer is on the
and as the volume of mail here is low, things don’t go astray. care late at night around the taxi parks, as Muteesa II, father of the current kabaka, record as saying that the ‘police are like your
pickpockets and thieves operate here. Still, Ronald Mutebi II (known also by his Bu- buttocks, you only notice their importance
Telephone & Fax there is no need to be paranoid when out gandan name, Muwenda). Edward Muteesa when you have a boil on them’.
The main post office also houses the inter- and about. II died in London in 1969, three years after
national telephone exchange, and there are Due to low-level terrorist campaigns being deposed by Obote. The tombs are
public phones where you can ring and fax in Kampala in the late 1990s, and current taken care of by the Ganda clans. archaeological and natural history displays.
overseas. worldwide jitters about international ter- The Kasubi Tombs are open year-round, Perhaps its most interesting feature is a col-
Phonecards are sold in booths through- rorists, security at government buildings, including holidays. Remove your shoes be- lection of traditional musical instruments,
out the city, and there are MTN and UTL embassies, bars and nightclubs is extremely fore entering the main building. You can but even these are falling apart. Basically,
(mobile-phone companies that also operate tight. However, you get used to the searches get to the tombs by minibus, either from the museum is crying out for some tender,
card phones) cardphones all over town. pretty quickly and, remember, it is for your the old taxi park in the city centre (ask for loving care. More recently some photo
Connection is pretty straightforward to most own safety. Hoima Rd) or from the junction of Bombo exhibitions have been held here and this
countries. There are also Simu4u booths in Uganda doesn’t have much of a social- and Makerere Hill Rds. The minibuses to could be a good way to reinvigorate the
the city where you pay cash for calls at security system, so begging is quite com- get are the ones that terminate at the market place. There is an USh5000 fee for cameras
pretty reasonable rates. mon, especially in central Kampala. at the junction of Hoima and Masiro Rds. and an USh20,000 fee for video cameras,
One recurrent annoyance in Kampala is The tombs are a few hundred metres walk money down the drain given the paucity
Tourist Information that taxi drivers have a tendency to run out up the hill from here and are signposted. of exhibits.
For up-to-the-minute information on Kam- of petrol at the most inconvenient times. To get here, catch a Kamjokya shared taxi
pala, pick up the free listings magazine The Drivers often have the bare minimum of fuel Uganda Museum from the old taxi park (USh300).
Eye: The In & Out Guide to Uganda from in their tank, so that if the car gets stolen it The Uganda Museum (Map p471; Kira Rd; adult/child
selected hotels and restaurants. won’t get far. Daft though it sounds, it is no USh3000/1500; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun) Buildings of the Buganda Kingdom
Uganda Community Tourism Association (Map p471; joke, and often they miscalculate how much is quite run-down given that it is meant to Kampala has always been the heartland of
Ucota; %041-501866; [email protected]; Kabala- they have left and don’t make it to the near- be the showcase for the nation. It has a few the Buganda kingdom, and within the cap-
gala) Heavily geared towards independent travellers, it can est garage – make sure you get into a taxi at good ethnological exhibits covering hunt- ital are a number of its impressive admin-
advise on travel arrangements to its countrywide projects. the top of a hill! ing, agriculture, war and religion, as well as istrative centres and royal buildings. Most
476 K A M PA L A • • K a m p a l a f o r C h i l d re n www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K A M PA L A • • S l e e p i n g 477
of these are located in and around Mengo (opposite) is another good option, as parents a 10-minute minibus ride out of the city cen-
and include the kabaka’s palace (Map p471), can while away some time at its excellent tre, not far from the landmark Namirembe THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE
inside a vast walled enclosure, the Buganda restaurant and bar. Otherwise, Entebbe is Cathedral. Take a Natete shared taxi from Blue Mango (%041-543481; bluemango@info
parliament (Map p471; Kabakanjagala Rd), located worth a visit, as the Uganda Wildlife Educa- the new taxi park (USh500 uphill, but only com.co.ug; Old Kira Rd; dm US$8, s/d US$25/35,
at the end of a ceremonial driveway lead- tion Centre (p487) provides a comfortable USh300 return!) – just ask for ‘Backpackers’. with bathroom US$35/45, cottages US$55/70; s)
ing from the palace and the Buganda Court home for such diverse animals as chimpan- The team also runs a new beach resort on Looking for the atmosphere of a lodge in
of Justice (Map p471), now the location for zees, rhinos and the peculiar looking shoebill Bussi Island in Lake Victoria (see p490). the city? Look no further, as this place has
Uganda’s National Court. However, none stork. There are also the Entebbe Botanical Red Chilli Hideaway (%041-223903; www.redchilli lush gardens, soft lighting and a swimming
of these are open to the public. Gardens (p487), with plenty of space to hideaway.com; camping USh6000, dm USh9000, tw from pool. All rooms are attractively decorated,
The kabaka’s Trail (%041-501866; www.cultural roam about. USh22,000, d with bathroom from USh35,000; i) An although the cheapest have shared bath-
heritagetrails.com; Ucota office, Kabalagala) is a com- Otherwise, head east to Jinja where there oasis in the city, Red Chilli is the hub of a room. The larger cottages are perfect for
munity tourism project to introduce visi- are the enticing options of a family float raft- growing empire that includes budget camps families or small groups, with a lounge and
tors to the secret history of the Buganda ing trip on the Nile or quad biking for kids at Murchison Falls and Mgahinga Gorilla kitchen facilities. Budget travellers can take
people. See p487 for more details. (see p498). National Parks. It is very popular with long- advantage of the dorms, as the price in-
term guests for its wide range of rooms and cludes access to the swimming pool. Book
Religious Buildings SLEEPING it gets most of the overland truck business. ahead, as it is pretty popular. There is also
There are several prominent religious build- Accommodation in Kampala doesn’t offer It has several doubles – named after chilli a lively restaurant and bar here, plus a so-
ings in Kampala that might interest some particularly impressive value for money, par- varieties – and some rooms include bath- phisticated craft shop.
spiritually inclined travellers, including the ticularly if you want anything with a modi- room. There are also sweet two-bedroom
gleaming white Kibuli Mosque (Map p471) cum of comfort and a bathroom. cottages (USh85,000) with lounge, bath-
dominating Kibuli Hill on the other side room and kitchen facilities, which are great Rooms are bright and clean, plus free tea is
of the train station from Nakasero Hill; Budget for families. Guests can use the swimming available on request.
the huge, domed Roman Catholic Rubaga Most travellers choose to stay at Backpack- pool at the nearby Silver Springs Hotel for Midland Guesthouse (Map p472; %041-340264; 2
Cathedral (Map p471) on Rubaga Hill; the ers Hostel, Red Chilli Hideaway or the Blue USh3000. There is decent food available Nakivubo Rd; s/d USh12,000/17,000) Looming large
twin towers of the Anglican Namirembe Cath- Mango – all excellent places – as the cheap throughout the day and a lively bar. Equally over the bustling bus station, this place is
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edral (Map p471), where the congregation is hotels are mostly near the noisy bus station popular is the free Internet access on offer. perhaps noisier than most, but does offer
called to worship by the beating of drums; and taxi parks, an area which is pretty noisy Check out the reliable travel information good-value rooms. It promises service with
the enormous Hindu temples (Map p472) in at all times of day and night. here before moving on and take a look at its a personal touch, but there is an element of
the city centre; and the beautiful Baha’í tem- bargain budget three-day Murchison Falls wishful thinking here – a lethargic touch is
ple way out towards Kira. HOSTELS trips. This great spot is up in Bugolobi dis- more the reality.
There is also a national mosque (Map p471) There are a couple of great hostels in Kam- trict, about 6km out of the city centre, off the Hotel Sun City (Map p472; %041-345542; William St;
under construction in old Kampala, origin- pala, but both fill up fast during peak season, road to Port Bell. Take a minibus from the s USh12,000, s/d with bathroom USh18,000/25,000) Mov-
ally begun under Idi Amin and now being so be sure to book ahead. eastern end of Kampala Rd to Bugolobi for ing closer to the city centre, but still in the
funded by Colonel Gadaffi. Idi Amin had Backpackers Hostel (Map p471; %077-430587; USh500, get off opposite the Silver Springs chaotic part of Kampala, the Sun City is a
planned a towering minaret to be visible all www.backpackers.co.ug; Natete Rd, Lunguja; camping Hotel and take the road opposite up the hill, good compromise between the bustle of the
over the city, but the unfinished pillar had USh5000, dm USh7000-10,000 s/d USh14,000/25,000, following signs from there. taxi parks and the higher prices of Kampala
begun to lean precariously in recent years d with bathroom USh35,000-45,000; i) The first The excellent Blue Mango (right) also of- Rd. Staff are friendly, the rooms are a reason-
and has been rebuilt on a smaller scale. budget hostel to open its doors in Kampala fers dorm beds, which include access to the able size and the bathrooms have hot water.
and still going strong. Set in lush gardens, it swimming pool.
Other Activities is an escape from the bustle of the city and Midrange
Kampala is a good base for activities beyond local staff ensure a warm welcome. As well as HOTELS Tourist Hotel (Map p472; %041-251471; www.tourist
the city. By far the most popular is white- dorm beds in various shapes and sizes, there The budget hotels are all in the busy part hotel.net; Dastur St; s US$25-30, d US$35-40) This stands
water rafting at the source of the Nile, near are also attractive bandas (thatch-roofed of the city centre near the taxi parks and head and shoulders above the city-centre
Jinja. See p495 for more details. Other popu- huts) and some more sophisticated self- domestic bus station. Some people find this competition, as it offers high standards at
lar activities on and around Lake Victoria contained doubles with hot-water bath- part of Kampala quite intimidating, so with midrange prices, making it exceptional value.
include boating, fishing and horse riding – rooms. Cooking facilities are available for the great hostels around the city there are It overlooks the lively Nakasero Market and
see p489 for more details. campers, but tasty, inexpensive set meals few foreigners staying here. There’s a large has executive style rooms, with key card,
and snacks are readily available, including choice these days, but all offer the same safety deposit box, spotless bathroom, TV
KAMPALA FOR CHILDREN nightly specials. The bar draws a mix of standard – choosing where to stay is more and telephone. Breakfast is an extra US$5.
Kampala isn’t exactly bursting with activities travellers and expats, includes a pool table a question of a thousand shillings or a bath- This is definitely the best place in the city
for children, but with a bit of time and effort and stays open late. Broadband Internet ac- room here and there. for those who want a little more comfort,
it is possible to keep the young-uns enter- cess is available. This is also the place for L’Hotel Fiancée (Map p472; %041-236144; Channel but don’t want to break the bank.
tained. Swimming pools are always a winner reliable information on tracking the moun- St; s/d with bathroom USh16,000/20,000) Promising a Namirembe Guest House (Map p471; % 041-
and the Speke Resort (p490) at Munyono has tain gorillas in DR Congo, as this is the rep- ‘concentration of elegancy’, this is the smart- 273778; www.namirembe-guesthouse.com; Willis Rd;
one of the best in the city. The Blue Mango resentative in Uganda. This popular hostel is est place in this not-so-smart part of the city. s USh35,000-55,000, d USh60,000-75,000) This place is
478 K A M PA L A • • S l e e p i n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K A M PA L A • • E a t i n g 479
church run and promises ‘a million dollar views from the back of this hotel, and facili- a small swimming pool, bars, a café and buffet, which is pretty good value for such
view’, and does indeed offer some of the ties include a swimming pool. restaurants. a fancy place. There’s live music while you
best city scapes in Kampala. Set in spacious Nile Hotel (Map p472; Nile Ave) One of the best- eat, but you need to be reasonably smartly
grounds in a quiet suburb, there are several Top End known properties in Kampala, this hotel is dressed to get in here.
buildings housing a variety of meticulously Although most of the accommodation in currently undergoing a massive renovation
clean rooms. Breakfast is included. this price bracket is quoted in hard currency by the Soneva chain and will open its five- Chinese & Thai
Regency Kampala Hotel (Map p471; %041-272095; (US dollars), payment in local currency is star doors during the lifetime of this book. Chinese restaurants are surprisingly prolific
Namirembe Rd; s/d USh95,000/125,000) This large busi- always possible. Most of the prices quoted in Kampala, but some are better than others.
ness hotel offers top-end comfort at mid- exclude value-added tax (VAT) of 17%, un- EATING All are open daily.
range prices. It is a touch sterile, but that less otherwise stated. Kampala is packed with quality restaurants, Fang Fang (Map p472; %041-344806; Colville St;
might appeal after a stint in the bush. Speke Hotel (Map p471; %041-259221; www.speke ensuring no-one goes hungry. Some of the mains USh5000-10,000) The consensus in the city
New Gloria Hotel (Map p472; %041-257790; fax hotel.com; Nile Ave; s/d US$95/100; a) One of Kam- cheapest places to eat in Kampala are the is that this is the best Chinese restaurant and
041-269616; William St; s/d/tr USh25,000/40,000/50,000) A pala’s oldest hotels, this characterful ad- ubiquitous takeaways that dot the city cen- the sheer numbers that pack the place each
small place with an intimate atmosphere, the dress was recently given a major facelift to tre. It is impossible to recommend any in night attest to the quality of the food. Located
self-contained rooms are reasonably good add creature comforts to age and grace. All particular as they are fairly standard outfits, in an anonymous office block, the interior
value for the city centre. rooms now have air-con, wooden floors, offering dishes such as chicken, meat, saus- is typical of a Chinese restaurant anywhere,
Hotel City Square (Map p472; %041-256257; fax satellite TV and minibar. With a central lo- ages, fish and chips, as well as samosas and but there’s a large outdoor terrace for breezy
041-251440; 42 Kampala Rd; s/d USh35,000/45,000) Sitting cation, this is definitely the hotel of choice chapatis. Prices are the same whether you eat nights. There’s a full selection of Chinese
in a strategic position on Kampala Rd, the for those looking to spend a hundred bucks. in or takeaway, and cost about USh1000 to classics, and specialities include fried crispy
hotel looks pretty drab from the exterior, but The terrace bar is a popular meeting place, USh3000 for a meal. Look out for the take- prawns with ginger and garlic.
the rooms aren’t bad, with a bathroom, TV there’s a good Italian restaurant (Mama away signs sticking out of buildings all over Chopsticks (Map p472; %041-250781; Hotel Equa-
and telephone. Rates include breakfast. Mia) and heaving On the Rocks bar is right the city, but be aware that grease is a con- toria, William St; mains around USh7000) It’s more of
Havana Hotel (Map p472; %041-343532; hotel next door. The luxurious Speke Resort is run sistent ingredient at every establishment. a multinational menu here with Chinese
[email protected]; 28 Mackay St; s/d US$40/45, with by the same owners – see page p490. Many of the markets around the city have dishes the main star, ably supported by a
air-con US$50/55; a) Catering primarily to local Emin Pasha Hotel (Map p471; %041-236977; www local food stalls that are even cheaper than cast of Thai and Vietnamese favourites for
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business travellers, this offers a slice of real .eminpasha.net; 27 Aki Bua Rd; s/d from US$220/250; takeaways. For USh1000, they usually offer a good measure. Look out for promotional
Kampala, overlooking the busy new taxi ais) Kampala’s first boutique hotel is heaped plate of matoke, potatoes, groundnut menus at lunchtime, including four courses
park. Rooms include all the obvious trim- beautifully housed in an elegant old colo- sauce, beans, greens, and meat or fish. for USh10,000.
mings, although the furnishings are clearly nial property that has been thoughtfully re- It is worth noting that quite a lot of the Krua Thai (Map p471; %041-234852; Windsor Cres;
from another era. Rates include breakfast. stored. The 20 rooms are the best in the city, better restaurants in Kampala are closed on meals USh10,000) If you are after the taste of
Fang Fang Hotel (Map p472; %041-235828; fang blending atmosphere and luxury, and more Sunday or Monday, so check in advance to Thailand, Krua Thai is an authentic family-
[email protected]; Ssezibwa Rd; s/d with breakfast expensive suites feature such touches as avoid disappointment. run restaurant up in the popular Kololo
US$55/75) Just below the Sheraton Hotel, this claw-foot bathtubs. The expansive grounds area of the city. The menu includes all the
place is good value when compared with include a swimming pool, and attached is Ugandan familiar greatest hits, including pad Thai,
certain top-end hotels, where prices double the respected Fez Brasserie. Canaan Restaurant (Map p472; Kampala Rd; mains laab and tôm yam kung, as well as some re-
for the same type of room. Rooms are mod- Sheraton Kampala Hotel (Map p472; % 041- USh4000-8000) Just off Kampala Rd, the out- gional specialities. Those used to dining in
ern, clean and well appointed. There is also 420000; www.sheraton.com; Ternan Ave; s/d US$265/290; door terrace here is popular for people- Thailand might want to ask staff to up the
a good Chinese restaurant here, part of the as) Looming large over the capital, this watching during the busy lunch hour in chilli count, as they tone down the spices
Fang Fang chain. concrete behemoth was long considered the the city centre. Local businessmen and of- on most dishes.
Hotel Diplomate (%041-510343; s/d US$50/65, best hotel in Kampala. Rooms were under- ficials fill the tables, and drinking is just as
cottages US$65/75, ste US$75/90) If it’s views that going much needed renovations at the time popular as dining. The menu is limited, but Continental
you’re after, this place offers them from of writing, as they were ageing badly, but if you need a quick steak or a roast chicken, Blue Mango (Kira Rd; meals USh6000-15,000) For a
its imperious location on the summit of the prices still seem absurdly high com- it can deliver. good selection of grub from all over the
Tank Hill. The hotel has a fair choice of pared to Sheratons in other parts of the Half London (Gaba Rd; meals USh5000-15,000) A globe, head to the suburban sanctuary that
rooms, and the suites are a worthwhile in- world. Facilities include tennis and squash Kampala institution that now houses a small is the Blue Mango. Big bush furniture, cush-
vestment for the huge sunken baths and courts, several restaurants and bars, and a branch of the famous Carnivore from Nai- ions to sink in and flowing African drapes
smarter trimmings. Rates include breakfast shopping precinct. Rates include breakfast robi. Both the space and menu are tiny when provide the backdrop for a very relaxed
and taxes. Forget about staying here unless and service, but not tax – that adds up to compared to those in Kenya, but this is the meal. The menu includes cheaper bar meals,
you have your own transport, as it’s a fair US$300 or more, ouch! place to try bush meat if you must. Service such as pies with mash and crisp salads, and
distance from minibus routes. Grand Imperial Hotel (Map p472; %041-250681; is slow to the point of non-existent, how- a more sophisticated range of meat, poultry
Hotel International (%041-510200; Tank Hill Rd; s/d [email protected]; 6 Nile Ave; s/d US$140/160; ever. The outdoor bar is one of the places to and fish with a regional accent. On Friday it
USh90,000/100,000; s) Located in the Tank Hill as) One of the extended family of Im- check out in the evening. For more details, fills up with the post-work crowd.
area, this modern business hotel offers some perial hotels in and around Kampala, this see p483. Fez Brasserie (Map p471; %041-236977; mains
of the largest standard rooms in the city. Like is smaller and more intimate than the Kampala Casino (Map p472; Kimathi Ave) Head here USh10,000-20,000) Set in the grounds of Kam-
the Diplomate, there are some seriously big Sheraton, and has good facilities, including on Thursday evening to sample the Ugandan pala’s first boutique hotel, the Emin Pasha,
480 K A M PA L A • • E a t i n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K A M PA L A • • E a t i n g 481
this restaurant has quickly won over the Italian 1000 Cups Coffee House (Map p472; 18 Buganda Rd;
THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE Mamba Point (Map p471; %077-243225; www.mamba
discerning local crowd thanks to a fusion h8am-9pm) For a coffee kick from Brazil to
menu that includes flavours from five con- Haandi (Map p472; %041-346283; www.haandi -point.com; 22 Aki Bua Rd; mains USh15,000-30,000; Vietnam and everything in between, caf-
tinents. Highlights from the ever-evolving -restaurants.com; 7 Kampala Rd; curries from hMon-Sat) For the best in Italian dining, feine cravers should head here. ‘A cup for
menu include the signature aubergine tower USh7000) It is time for London to concede: make for Mamba Point, where the pasta every nation’ is its motto and it doesn’t ne-
with goats cheese, roast peppers and pesto, Kampala is the capital of fine Indian dining is home-made and the menu as close to glect the homebrews from Uganda. There is
Moroccan lamb and Cuban spatchcock and Haandi is the hub. This restaurant is the homeland as you might hope to find in also a menu of light bites, such as salads and
poussin… impressive stuff! Vegetarians are pure class, the presentation and service im- Africa. Save space for the exquisite desserts, sandwiches, and sweet pastries. It’s a good
also well represented. peccable, and the menu includes the best which include lime syllabub and chocolate place to hang out and catch up with the rest
Crocodile (Map p471; %041-254593; Cooper Rd; of North Indian frontier cuisine. This is not truffle torte. of the world, as there is a large selection of
hTue-Sun) A very popular café-bar up in the the place to limit yourself to a chicken tikka Caffé Roma (%077-501847; Tank Hill Parade; pizzas international newspapers and magazines.
lively Kisimenti district, the Crocodile has masala. Experiment a little with the tilapia USh10,000, pasta from USh8000; hTue-Sun) If you Café Pap (Map p472; 13 Parliament Ave) A stylish
a tempting range of salads, pasta dishes and (Nile perch) curries or the murg-e-kahsa. are thinking of a night in Kabalagala, why café on bustling Parliament Ave, this might
sophisticated snacks. It gets very busy on Eat and drink well from about USh20,000 not kick off with an affordable Italian meal be the place to meet some movers and shak-
Sunday, as the healthy flavours are good for per person. at this place up on Tank Hill. Pizza comes ers. Uganda coffees are promoted here from
a hangover. with all the favourite toppings and there is a the slopes of Elgon, the Rwenzoris and the
La Fontaine (Map p471; %077-4061976; Bukoto St; good choice of popular pasta dishes. Virungas, but there is also an excellent menu
mains USh6000-12,000) La Fontaine is a popular Indian There is also a long-running Italian res- of sandwiches, paninis and full breakfasts.
café-restaurant in this area. There is a fill- Masala Chaat House (Map p472; % 041-255710; taurant in the Speke Hotel called Mama Mia Vasili’s Bakery (Map p472; Kampala Rd) This is a
ing lunchtime buffet for USh8000, a great 3 Dewinton Rd; mains USh3000-7000) The sheer num- and the small pizzas (from USh8000) are just bakery to remember, serving perhaps the
range of salads, including spicy Thai or blue ber of Indians eating here should tell you about enough for a meal. There is also a genu- best range of pies and cakes in the city, a top
cheese, and a good juice selection. something about the authentic flavours and ine gelato bar here for ice-cream lovers. spot for breakfast or afternoon tea. Chelsea
Le Petit Bistro (Gaba Rd; steaks from USh8000) affordable prices at this local institution. buns, apple crumble and other old-world
Like much of Africa, steak is very popular Located opposite the National Theatre, Quick Eats favourites are plentiful here.
in Uganda and this simple little restaurant it serves cheap vegetarian thalis and has Fast food is popular among Kampalans and Tricia’s Terrace (Map p472; Daisy’s Arcade, Buganda
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cooks up some of the best meat in the city. stacks more to keep vegetarians smiling several regional chains have set up shop in Rd; light meals USh3500-7500) A combination of a
Prices are pretty low and a selection of for the night. Meat and fish dishes are also the past few years. café and restaurant, this popular little lunch
sauces is available. That’s the good news. available, as well as a wide selection of tasty Antonio’s (Map p472; Kampala Rd; mains USh3000) spot specialises in delicious, inexpensive
The bad news is that it can take as long as masala dosas (a large savoury crepe stuffed This is a pretty good greasy spoon café, serv- sandwiches. Fillings include chicken, bacon
two hours for food to arrive, so be patient with a delicious filling of potatoes cooked ing Indian, Mexican and Ugandan favour- and avocado. The hot toasties are also a hit.
and let the drinks flow. with onions and curry leaves) and other ites at lightning speed. Curries and burritos Bancafé (Map p472; Grand Imperial Hotel Arcade) An
Le Chateau (Map p471; Gaba Rd; meals around southern Indian delights. are cheap, and portions are large. old favourite that remains popular thanks
USh20,000) Popular for serious steaks, Le Cha- City Bar & Grill (Kampala Rd; dishes USh5000-10,000) Domino’s Pizza (Map p472; %041-251513; 2 Kam- to a good selection of freshly ground coffee,
teau is home to the Quality Cuts butchery, Housed in a classic Art Deco building, this pala Rd) Believe it or not, this isn’t actually fresh juices and fruit shakes, and some tasty
guaranteeing top meat. This place is ab- is a popular stop for lunch, serving excel- part of the vast international empire, but a cakes. Sandwiches and salads cost about
surdly fashionable among well-to-do Ugan- lent tandoori dishes. A small subcontinen- local place that has managed to hang on to USh5000, making it a popular stop for a
dans. The extensive menu favours French tal selection is available, as well as Western the name. Still the pizza is just as good as its light lunch.
cuisine, and includes frogs’ legs and snails, meals, such as steaks. Check out the full- internationally famous namesake. Gallery Cafe (Masaka Rd; dishes from USh5000) A
so if you are looking to indulge, this is a sized snooker table, which sorts out the Nando’s (Map p472; Kampala Rd) and Chicken Inn tranquil bolthole from the hustle and bustle
good place to do it. men from the boys. (Map p472; Kampala Rd), both in the same build- of the city centre. It is 2km along Masaka
Pavement Tandoori (Map p471; %041-344994; ing, turn out chicken in every size and Rd, not far from Natete. The gallery itself
Ethiopian Cooper Rd; mains USh5000-10,000) This place is right shape at reasonable prices (USh4000 to is well worth a look (p484); sit back on the
Fasika (%041-268571; Gaba Rd; dishes USh5000-7000) in the middle of the action on the popular USh8000) – Nando’s offers the slightly more front veranda and enjoy a tasty lunch from
Right opposite the crazy Capital Pub in Cooper Rd strip. The Indian food here is flavoursome spicy option. the small eclectic menu.
Kabalagala, Fasika is the leading Ethiopian delicious and elegantly presented. Try the Further west on Kampala Rd, Steers (Map
restaurant in Kampala. The menu is a good vegetarian sizzler for an introduction to p472; Kampala Rd) is a South African burger Ice-Cream Parlours
introduction to Ethiopian eats and includes Indian starters. joint that does pretty much the same sort Ice cream is very popular in Kampala and
a tasty Ethiopian answer to a thali (mixed Khana Khazana (Map p471; %041-233049; 20 of things as chain burger joints the world there are several parlours spread across
curry selection, including rice and pappa- Acacia Dr; mains USh10,000-20,000) Regarded by over. Plus there is a branch of Debonair’s (Map the city. The best ice cream in Kampala is
dams), with a little bit of everything served some expat residents as the classiest Indian p472; Kampala Rd; pizza from USh6000) in the same found at Le Chateau (Map p471; Gaba Rd), but the
on injera (unleavened bread). restaurant in Kampala, this is housed in a complex. location is inconvenient for a casual treat.
Ethiopian Village (Muyenga Rd; mains USh7000) An residential villa near the golf course. It is the In the city centre, Mama Mia at Speke
Ethiopian eatery in the same part of town as most expensive option in the city, but this Cafés Hotel has very good gelato, with some
Fasika, there is a large, lush garden here for doesn’t dissuade the discerning crowd. It has As Kampala continues to develop, some- deliciously rich flavours from amaretto to
al fresco dining. recently spread its wings to Kigali, Rwanda. thing of a café culture is emerging. zabaglione.
482 K A M PA L A • • D r i n k i n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K A M PA L A • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t 483
Chipper’s is very popular, and it has a Cheap beers and huge crowds during tele- guaranteed to find some people propping up Club Silk (Map p471; admission USh2000-10,000;
couple of branches, one on Kampala Rd vised Premiership matches. the bar into the wee hours of the morning. h9pm-5am) In the same street as Ange Noir,
and another in Kabalagala. It has scoop and Slow Boat Pub (Map p472; %041-255647; Kampala It gets very busy on weekends, and attracts this is an identikit club that is also heaving
whip ice cream, and sundaes. Rd) At the heart of the city, this is much more a regular crowd of expats, Ugandans and with locals. The floor décor is luminous and
of a local drinkers’ bar than the location a fair number of prostitutes, meaning half hideous, so try not to be feeling nauseous
Self-Catering might suggest. It’s a good place to hang out the customers or more. There are two pool heading in here.
Luisun Supermarket (Map p471; 11 Bombo Rd) This for an afternoon session with a few beers tables, but you might need to stay all night Volts (Entebbe Rd; admission various) Located a lit-
Italian delicatessen is stuffed to the ceiling and watch Kampala life go by. to get a game. Drinks are reasonable, and it tle way out of the city on the Entebbe Rd, this
with cheeses, salamis, and home-made cakes Sax Pub (Map p472; Luwum St) Forget the name, is not uncommon for this bar to be open 24 is a major league club with a serious sound
and biscuits. It also has a range of wines and there is no jazz here, but plenty of action. It hours. It’s just down the road from the Half system. Themed nights include Caribbean
some little luxuries, like stuffed olives. It now started out pretty sane with a good mix of London (right). Special-hire taxis between tunes and ’60s flashbacks. Look out for the
operates a small deli-café in the middle of African and Western tunes, but lately things here and the city centre cost anything from searching spotlights scoping the sky.
the shop, including full meals like lasagne have become pretty wild with working girls USh4000 to USh8000, depending on your
and grilled chicken, as well as the obvious and an ‘anything goes’ atmosphere. negotiating skills and how drunk you are by Live Music
antipasto treats. On the Rocks (Map p472; Speke Hotel) One of the the time you leave. To be sure of catching live music while in
Shoprite (Map p471; clock tower roundabout) A sort definitive stops on the Kampala nightshift, Capital Pub (%041-269676; Muyenga Rd) An in- Kampala, check out Friday’s listings page in
of South African Tesco, this huge supermar- this cool place has a covered bar and a famous imbibing institution in Kabalagala, the New Vision newspaper, as there is usually
ket is overflowing with products. There is huge outdoor area, absolutely heaving with this is cut from the same cloth as Al’s. Check something going down over the weekend.
a fresh bakery, as well as the best range of people from about 9pm. The complex in- out the elaborate eaved roof at the back, Musicians Club 1989 (Map p472; admission free;
imports in the city. There is a second branch cludes a couple of small dance floors and with nearly a dozen pool tables, making get- h7-10pm Mon) Kampala musicians get to-
in the new Lugogo Mall on Jinja Rd. drinks are a fair deal, given it is part of the ting a game that much easier. This place is gether every Monday at the National Theatre
Speke Hotel. Prostitutes hang out here in always busy and has more than its fair share for informal jam sessions and live perform-
DRINKING numbers and pickpocketing is not unheard of pushy prostitutes from all over the region, ances. This is a must if you are in the city,
Nightlife in Kampala is something to relish of on a busy night. but most of them troop off to Al’s by the as the place fills up with Ugandans letting off
these days, with a host of decent bars and Rouge (Map p472; 2 Kampala Rd; hTue-Sat) Kam- early hours. steam after a Monday back at work and the
UGANDA
UGANDA
clubs throughout the city. There is gener- pala’s first lounge club, the über-hip Rouge drinks flow. On the second and last Monday
ally something happening in the city on wouldn’t be out of place in a Euro-capital. ENTERTAINMENT of the month, the whole event shifts out-
most nights of the week, although Friday Cocktail hour continues into the evening Nightlife in Uganda may be fairly low-key, side the theatre and becomes a mini-festival,
and Saturday are definitely the big nights and sooner or later dancing takes over from but Kampala, the rocking capital, is thank- complete with beer tents and a serious sound
out. However, Kampalans are a trendy, drinking. Tuesday is jazz, Wednesday is fully the exception to the rule. Here there system. A great night out.
fickle bunch and places that are in today salsa and Friday hip hop. are nightclubs and discos, some of which Half London (Gaba Rd) A landmark on the
are gone tomorrow – it pays to ask around Just Kickin’ (Map p471; Cooper Rd) This is the have live music. Many of them rage on well popular Gaba Rd strip, this is one of the most
on arrival. top sports bar in Kampala that helped make into the night and one or two are open famous addresses in Kampala for live music
Kampala’s bars are up there with the best Kisimenti the kickin’ place it is today. Big virtually 24/7. from Thursday to Saturday. The music is a
in the region. Most places are open at least rugby and football matches draw the faith- great introduction to the best the region has
from 7pm until midnight and many of the ful, but it’s a busy bar any time. A sign Nightclubs to offer and this place is always heaving at
popular places are open much later. Usually above the front door reads: ‘No hookers. Several of the bars have a nightclub feel to the hinges. It’s partially open-air at the back,
only nightclubs have cover charges. Props and locks welcome.’ Well, that’s the them in the early hours of the morning and the crowd is mixed, the bar is friendly and
All of the most popular places to stay have idea, anyway. Good bar food in case you get on weekends there is pretty much guaran- boisterous, and everyone drinks until they
bars: Red Chilli is pretty busy and attracts a the munchies. teed to be dancing at Just Kickin’, On the dance. Get here early on the weekend if you
few regular expats, as well as travellers; the Bubbles O’Learys (Map p471; %031-263815; 30 Rocks and Al’s Bar (opposite). want a table. Minibuses run here (USh500)
lively Backpackers has a leafy garden and a Windsor Cres) Kampala’s contribution to the There are a couple of discos out in the until about 10.30pm from the old taxi park
popular pool table; and Blue Mango is the growing legion of Irish pubs, this is one industrial area of the city, just off Jinja Rd, (just ask for the Half London or Kabalagala);
place to be on weekends, when the bar steps of the more authentic. The bar and all the east of the two main roundabouts. Both play later in the evening, find a special-hire taxi.
it up a gear. The Speke Hotel has a popular furnishings were shipped in from an old a lot of swing and house, and locals dance Club Obbligato (Old Port Bell Rd) A top local joint
terrace bar out the front, and some punt- Irish pub back home on the emerald isle. until late into the night. Charges rise as the for Ugandan music, the popular Afrigo Band
ers like the pub feel of the Lion Bar at the This is now the ‘in’ place to be on Friday, weekend comes around and both places plays here every weekend and is well worth
Sheraton Hotel. for the next five minutes at least, and draws have more-expensive VIP areas upstairs, but catching. Warm up here to some live music
The following places are listed starting a fun crowd. Live music on Wednesday, DJs there is not a whole lot of point upgrading. before hitting one of the nearby nightclubs.
in the city centre and fanning out into the on weekends, but there is a cheeky cover Ange Noir (Map p471; admission USh2000-10,000; Sabrina’s Pub (Map p472; Bombo Rd) Though lit-
suburbs. charge of USh5000 on big nights. h9pm-5am) The ‘black angel’ is pronounced tle more than a local bar from the front,
Midland Guesthouse (2 Nakivubo Rd) Overlook- Al’s Bar (Gaba Rd) A legend in Kampala, this locally as ‘Angenoa’, a pretty fair rendition peek through the double doors at the back
ing the bus station, trek all the way to the is the most famous bar in Uganda, although of the French, and is the most popular club and it transforms into a huge gig venue. Live
rooftop bar for some incredible views of the notorious might be a better word! This is for dancing. Everyone knows it, but it’s not bands perform on the large stage out the
madness below during evening rush hour. the one place in Kampala that you can be signposted on the main road. back most weekends, including the famous
484 K A M PA L A • • S h o p p i n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K A M PA L A • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 485
Stone Band on Friday, whipping the crowd Uganda Arts & Crafts Village (Map p472; h9am- of shops, including a supermarket, bookshop possible to board a Tanzania or Uganda
into a dancing frenzy. 7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) Hidden away behind and department store, plus a cinema, bowl- Railways cargo ferry with a little planning.
the National Theatre, this ‘village’ has a ing alley and food court. The newer Lugogo Shared taxis to Port Bell leave from the old
Traditional Dance number of stalls selling handicrafts, such as Mall (Jinja Rd) includes a Barclays Bank, a large taxi park in Kampala. See p556 for more
If you’re interested in traditional dance and caneware, woodcarvings and small trinkets Shoprite supermarket and Game, a huge DIY details.
music, try to catch a performance of the from around the country, all at quite rea- and household shop from South Africa.
Ndere Troupe. It’s composed of members sonable prices if you bargain. Bus
of the many ethnic groups in Uganda and Exposure Africa (Map p472; 13 Buganda Rd) Next Markets For buses within Uganda, the main bus station
has gained international acclaim on world door to Daisy’s Arcade, this is the biggest The busiest market in Kampala is Owino (Map p472; cnr Allen Rd & Luwum St) is below Kampala
tours. The troupe has a new base in Ntinda, craft market in Kampala, with about 30 Market, which sprawls around the Nakivubo Rd. It’s a busy place, with daily buses to every
the Ndere Centre (%041-288123; www.ndere.com; stalls offering crafts from Uganda and be- Stadium, near the taxi parks. Here you can main town in the country. Most leave very
Kisaasi Rd), out beyond the Blue Mango, which yond. Prices vary wildly between stalls, so find all sorts of goods for sale, but it is most early in the morning, so make inquiries the
includes an auditorium, a restaurant-bar and shop around and don’t forget your bargain- popular with travellers for its wide range of day before and get there early for a decent
even some accommodation. Performances ing hat. Much of the merchandise comes second-hand clothes from Europe, Asia and seat. There are lots of different companies
take place every Sunday at 6pm and cost just from neighbouring Kenya, despite what the the USA. Bargain hard, as they tend to raise operating different routes, but all are well
USh3000. It also promotes a comedy night sellers claim. the prices when mzungus (white people) are marked. It’s usually necessary to bargain the
(USh2000) every Friday at 7pm. Those with Uganda Crafts (Map p471; Bombo Rd) A non- sniffing around. fare down a bit on the popular tourist routes,
a serious interest in African dance could stay profit shop selling a wide variety of crafts, Nakasero Market is Kampala’s most fa- as there is some overcharging.
here. ‘You stay in this guesthouse, you are including goods made from leather, wood mous market and is just below Kampala To Butogota (for Bwindi Impenetrable
sure to become a philosopher’, it promises. and cane, plus there’s a likeable little open- Rd. It is divided into two areas, one partially National Park), there is one departure at
air café. covered, where produce is sold, and another 6.30am daily with Silverline (USh18,000,
Cinemas Gallery Cafe (Masaka Rd) Out of the city along located in an attractive old building, where 10 hours). There are daily buses to Kabale
The leading cinema group in Uganda is the Masaka Rd near Natete, this is a good hardware, clothes and even a few tourist (many bus lines; USh12,000 to USh15,000,
Cineplex (Map p472; Wilsons Rd), with two loca- source of contemporary crafts (ceramics, items are on sale. six hours) via Masaka and Mbarara; to Kas-
tions, the original on Wilson Rd and a new fabrics, sculpture) and paintings. To get here ese (USh12,000, eight hours); to Masindi
UGANDA
UGANDA
one in the Garden City Complex (right). by public transport, take a Natete shared taxi GETTING THERE & AWAY (USh9000, three hours); and to Fort Portal
The newer one screens new Hollywood re- from the old taxi park, and get off just after Air (USh10,000, four hours). For further de-
leases and charges USh11,000 evenings and it passes the large Uganda Railways locomo- For contact details of the international tails, see the Getting There & Away entries
weekends, while the original screens slightly tives workshop on the left; the gallery is on airlines flying in and out of Entebbe Inter- under each town.
more dated features. the right. national Airport, see p554.
Banana Boat (Map p471; Cooper Rd) An expanding There are two small domestic airlines in EMS POST BUS
Casinos empire, this sophisticated craft shop now has Uganda that mainly cater to government of- These buses depart at 8am daily, except Sun-
Kampala Casino (Map p472; Kimathi Ave; h2pm-late) three branches. The original has a few local ficials and NGOs, as they don’t really serve day, from the main post office (Map p472; %041-
In addition to the usual range of gaming items, but many of the smart pieces come any obvious tourist destinations: 236436; 35 Kampala Rd) for Kabale (USh11,000)
tables, the casino has a good buffet (p479), from all over Africa, including cards, batik, Eagle Uganda (Map p472; %041-344292; 11 Portal Ave) via Mbarara; Fort Portal (USh10,000, 10
live music, and free beer if you’re playing jewellery, clothing and carvings. There is a Flights to Arua, Gulu, Kitgum, Kotido, Moroto and Moyo. hours); Kasese (USh11,000, eight hours);
the tables. No shorts or scruffy gear are al- similar branch in the Garden City Complex, United Airlines (Map p472; %041-344292; 11 Portal Hoima (USh8000, five hours) via Masindi;
lowed here. It is pretty busy most nights, and plus a branch with an emphasis on homes Ave) Not to be confused with the famous American airline, and Soroti (USh10,000, seven hours) via
minimum stakes are low by international and interiors in the newer Lugogo Mall. this local outfit has flights to Adjumani, Arua and Gulu. Tororo and Mbale.
standards. Nommo Gallery (Map p472; 4 Victoria Ave) When These buses are a safe way to travel.
it comes to aesthetic art of the collectable Boat Bookings are not possible, so rock up in
SHOPPING sort, this gallery, higher on the hill above There used to be ferries to the Ssese Islands Kampala between 7am and 7.30am to be
While Uganda lacks the shop ‘till you drop’ the Sheraton Hotel, is the best-known place twice a week from Kampala’s Port Bell, but sure of a seat. From originating provincial
opportunities found in other African coun- in Kampala and doubles as a free museum these have been suspended. However, there towns to Kampala, they depart from the
tries, such as Kenya and South Africa, it for browsers. is talk of a new ferry early in the lifetime of post offices a little earlier (about 6.30am).
does have a few interesting crafts to look There are gift shops at many of the guest- this book. The best way to the islands now
out for and a lot of pieces imported from houses and hotels around Kampala, and is from Masaka, although you can still catch INTERNATIONAL BUSES
DR Congo. The best items produced in the prices rise incrementally with the room fishing boats from Kasenyi (near Entebbe). There are daily buses to Nairobi in Kenya
Uganda include woven baskets and bags, rates! Blue Mango has something similar to Unfortunately, these are small, leave in the with the following lines: Akamba (Map p471;
bark-cloth paintings and batik, plus some Banana Boat, stocking items mostly from afternoon (so travel in the dark) and are %041-250412; 28 Dewinton St), located on the
woodcarvings and soapstone figures. Kam- further south in Africa. none too safe. For more details, see p538. eastern edge of the city centre; Busscar (Map
pala has the best selection of things to buy Apart from the lively local markets (oppos- p472; %041-233030; 8 Burton St), which is just on
in Uganda, although with a fledgling tour- ite), the best places for shopping are the two MWANZA (TANZANIA) the hill above the new taxi park; Scandinavian
ism industry, there isn’t a huge range of big shopping centres in the city. Garden City There are no longer passenger ferries con- Express (Map p472; %078-260409; 8 Colville St); just
shops selling crafts. Complex (Map p471; Yusuf Lule Rd) has several floors necting Tanzania and Uganda, but it is below the Speke Hotel; and Regional Coach
486 K A M PA L A • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D K A M PA L A • • K a b a k a ’ s T r a i l 487
(Map p472; %041-256862; 4 Luwum St), just below way to avoid the traffic troubles is to use a a convenient place to spend a night when
Kampala Rd. Akamba and Scandinavian
Express buses also continue to Arusha and
boda-boda (motorbike taxis), although some
of the drivers can be quite reckless.
AROUND KAMPALA arriving late or departing early by plane.
Dar es Salaam. KABAKA’S TRAIL Information
For Kigali (Rwanda), there are daily serv- To/From the Airport The Kabaka’s Trail (%041-501866; www.cultural There are several kiosks to exchange cash
ices with the following companies: Jaguar The international airport is at Entebbe, heritagetrails.com; Ucota office, Kabalagala) is a com- at Entebbe airport, but rates are a little
Executive Coaches (Map p472; % 041-251855; 26 41km from Kampala. A special-hire taxi munity tourism project to introduce visi- lower than in Kampala. The major hotels
Nakivubo Rd), near the main bus station; Gaso from Kampala to Entebbe airport costs tors to the secret history of the Buganda can also change cash, but usually at poor
Bus (%041-572917; Bus Park, Kampala), in the bus about USh35,000 or US$20. A cheaper op- people. Six sites (admission each USh3000) around rates.
station; and Regional Coach. tion is to take a minibus between Kampala Kampala make up the trail, including sev- The post office has international tele-
See p554 for details and prices of inter- (from the old taxi park) and Entebbe town eral tombs, a prison and a waterfall. phone and fax services, and there are also
national services. (USh1500), then catch another shared taxi The Naggalabi Buddo Coronation Site, a short cardphones and a small post office at the
from there to the airport (USh1000 per per- distance off the road to Masaka, is where airport.
Minibus & Taxi son or USh5000 for the vehicle, 3km). Sev- the Buganda kings are crowned, including Stanbic Bank (Kampala Rd) Best bank in town, it can
Kampala has two taxi parks for minibuses. eral of the upmarket hotels offer an airport the current kabaka Ronald Mutebi II. There change cash and travellers cheques.
Although at first appearance these places pick-up service. are several huts similar to those at Kasubi Surfing Corner (Kampala Rd; per hr USh2000) Offers
seem chaotic, and at second appearance Tombs, as well as a natural throne from a sluggish Internet access.
absolutely anarchic, there is in fact a sig- Boda-bodas tree root. This is the most accessible of all
nificant degree of organisation, and mini- These motorbike taxis are now the fastest the sites, as minibuses (USh1500) run here Sights & Activities
buses for a particular destination always way to get around Kampala, as they can from the new taxi park in Kampala – ask for UGANDA WILDLIFE EDUCATION CENTRE
leave from the same place within each park. weave in and out of the traffic jams. It’s not Naggalabi Buddo stage. The Uganda Wildlife Education Centre (%041-
Both parks serve destinations within Kam- necessarily the safest way to travel and best Ssezibwa Falls is a popular beauty spot with 320520; www.ugandawildlifecentre.com; Lugard Ave; adult/
pala and around the country. The old taxi avoided at night, but during the day two locals, just off the road to Jinja. Take a Lugazi- child USh10,000/5000; h9am-6.30pm), just below the
park (Map p472), on the triangle formed wheels can save a lot of time. bound minibus from either taxi park in Imperial Botanical Beach Hotel, is a world-
by Burton, Luwum and South Sts, is the Kampala as far as Kayanja (USh2000, 45 class animal refuge, which has benefited
UGANDA
UGANDA
bigger of the two and serves all parts of the Minibus minutes) and then negotiate for a boda-boda from much international assistance in recent
city and country to the east; the new taxi The ubiquitous white minibus taxis leave to the falls (about USh1000). years. This is not a zoo and none of the ani-
park (Map p472) services destinations west from the two taxi parks and fan out all over Other sites on the trail include Katereke mals here are exhibits: all are recovered from
and north. the city. They are cheap and leave every few Prison, a prison ditch where royal prison- poachers and traffickers. Star attractions in-
As with buses, there are shared taxis trav- minutes to most destinations in the city. To ers were starved during the upheavals of clude the first rhinos in Uganda since the
elling to all major parts of the country, in- find the minibus taxi you want, simply ask 1888–89; the Wamala Tombs, which are the war, lions, chimpanzees and shoebill storks.
cluding Jinja (USh4000, one hour), Mbale around at the taxi parks – people are gener- resting place of early Bugandan kings and This is probably the easiest place to get good
(USh10,000, three hours), Malaba (USh9000, ally very helpful. However, with Kampala’s predate the more famous Kasubi Tombs; photos of wildlife in Uganda, especially the
two hours), Masindi (USh9000, three hours), traffic problems, it can be quicker to flag one the nearby Tomb of Nnamasole Kanyange; and often elusive shoebill stork. A visit is a must
Fort Portal (USh12,000, six hours), Kabale down on Kampala Rd, as they don’t need to the Tomb of Nnamasole Baagalayaze, where if you are in Entebbe.
(USh15,000, six hours), Masaka (USh5000, navigate the nightmare tailbacks around the there is a local cultural centre with trad-
two hours) and Mbarara (USh9000, four taxi parks. itional performances. ENTEBBE BOTANICAL GARDENS
hours). However, for all but the shortest Worth a wander if you have some time to
journeys, you are better off taking a bus, as Special-Hire Taxi ENTEBBE spare are the Entebbe Botanical Gardens (ad-
they stop less frequently and are safer due Actually in Kampala itself, there are plenty %041 mission per person USh1000, per car/camera/video camera
to their size. of ‘special-hire’ taxis, mostly marked with Located on the shores of Lake Victoria, USh1000/2000/5000; h9am-7pm). Laid out in 1898
black-and-white checks. Good places to Entebbe is an attractive, verdant town that by A Whyte, the first curator, they’re along
Train find them in the city centre are outside the was once the capital of Uganda during the the lake shore between the sailing club and
All passenger trains ceased operating about taxi parks, around Nakasero Market and early years of the British protectorate. With the centre of Entebbe. Locals claim that
a decade ago, which is probably a blessing at the upper end of Colville St. At night the traffic troubles and overcrowding now some of the Johnny Weismuller Tarzan
in disguise, as they were painfully slow and though, they will usually find you, as they dogging Kampala, there might be a case films were made here, although there aren’t
very uncomfortable. wait in great numbers outside popular bars for once again moving the political capital any chimps like Cheetah today. Even if
and clubs. back to its lakeside origins. It is home to you’re not particularly enthusiastic about
GETTING AROUND A standard short-distance fare is around the Botanical Gardens, which offer a nice botany, there are some interesting, unusual
Traffic jams are now a major headache in USh3000 to USh5000. Negotiate a price for escape from the hustle and bustle of life in trees and shrubs, and the gardens are fairly
Kampala, so no matter where you are going longer distances, including waiting time if Kampala, and the Uganda Wildlife Edu- well maintained. There is quite a variety
in the city, plan ahead if you need to get that’s what you want. Charges are a little cation Centre, which provides a home for of bird species found in the gardens, some
somewhere at an appointed time. Rush hour higher at night, although what you end up rare animals rescued from traffickers and monkeys and, for arachnophiles, there is a
is particularly bad, usually from 7.30am to paying depends on how much you have poachers. It is also the location of Ugan- spider walk, with plenty of big spiders cling-
9.30am and about 5pm to 7pm. The easiest drunk. da’s international airport, making Entebbe ing to their webs.
ὈὈὈ
488 A R O U N D K A M PA L A • • E n t e b b e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D K A M PA L A • • L a k e V i c t o r i a 489
Entebbe
ENTEBBE Approximate Scale 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
Windsor Lake Victoria Hotel (%041-320645; Just behind Four Turkeys is Legends, a
[email protected]; s/d from US$133/170; s ) This local nightclub where the action continues
A B C D
ὈὈὈ
11 hotel has long played on history as a sell- towards the weekend.
To Kampala
(35km)
Lake ing point, but history is catching up with
Victoria it every day. Atmospheric enough, but it Getting There & Away
1 needs a major facelift to justify these prices, Minibuses run between Entebbe and Kam-
Portal
INFORMATION
Post Office...................................1 C2 as the décor is from another era. The bar pala (USh1500) throughout the day from
Rd
Stanbic Bank................................2 C2
and restaurants are popular with nonguests, the new taxi park in Kampala or the En-
Kampa
Surfing Corner.........................(see 12) To Ngamba
Island
Botanical
Gardens who can also use the pool for USh5000. tebbe roundabout.
la Rd
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Entebbe Botanical Gardens...........3 C1 3
Entebbe
Uganda Wildlife Education Berkeley Rd 8 Pier Eating & Drinking Getting Around
H
Centre.....................................4 D2
ill
a ve
When it comes to food in Entebbe, quite a To get to the airport from Entebbe, either
Rd
ll L r dA
Hi ga 4
SLEEPING 1 Lu
Boma...........................................5 C3 12 Hill Rd
few people end up eating at their hotel. The take a shared taxi (USh1000 per person) or
Po
d
nR Windsor Lake Victoria Hotel has a massive charter the entire car for USh5000.
Ka
rta
Entebbe Flight Motel....................6 C3 so Rd
Wil
m
ard
lR
Lug
pa
Entebbe Tourists..........................7 C3
d
2 d selection of menus, encompassing Chinese,
la
Imperial Botanical Beach Hotel.....8 D2 on R
Stati
Rd
Sophie's Motel.............................9
Windsor Lake Victoria Hotel......10
C3
C2
2
To Imperial Beach
Indian, Italian and fast food. Most dishes LAKE VICTORIA
Rd
o go
Resort Hotel
Hotel (200m)
cost USh6000 to USh10,000, and they can Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary
Rd
Naki w W
EATING be ordered poolside. There is a chimpanzee sanctuary located on
Ka
at
lar
mp
10 er
Nuanchan...................................11 C1
cu
wo
a
Take a deep breath… there’s a Lao restaur- Ngamba Island in Lake Victoria, nicknamed
la
rks
Cir
Rd
Rd
DRINKING
Four Turkeys..............................12 C2
ant in Entebbe. No, not Thai, but Lao. ‘Chimp Island’, which is now a popular day
Golf Course
d
Nuanchan (%071-980018; 2 Kintu Rd; dishes USh5000- trip for tourists staying in Kampala. Relo-
tR
13
por
TRANSPORT
8000) Run by two sisters from Laos living in cated here in 1998, the original group of 19
Air
Ch
Taxi Park....................................13 C3 ur
6
ch
Rd
Entebbe, the small menu is very authentic has swelled to around 40 chimps. They can
3 and includes some spicy salads, tôm yam be viewed at very close range during feeding
Go
Cir
5
me
soup and fried pork. Sadly, no Beer Lao, times (11am and 2.30pm). The chimps are
cu
Mu
UGANDA
rs
UGANDA
lar
gw
Rd
7
though. free to wander about their forested home, and
Rd
Queens Rd
an
To Airport (5km); 9
ya
Buli
Kigungu (10km); d Four Turkeys (Kampala Rd) The leading bar in visitor fees are ploughed back into this and
Rd
kR
me
Bussi Island (15km) r
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