Motorcycle Owner’s Manual "i ; KX250Whenever you see the symbols shown below, heed their instructions! Always follow safe operating and maintenance practices. | WARNING This warning symbol identifies special instructions or Procedures which, if not correctly followed, could result in personal injury, oF loss of lif. This caution symbol identifies special instructions or procedures which, if not strictly observed, could result in damage to or destruction of equipment, NOTE This note symbol indicates points of particular interest for more efficient and convenient operation. WARNING | THIS VEHICLE IS A COMPETITION MODEL ONLY AND WAS NOT MANUFACTURED FOR, NOR SHOULD IT BE USED ON, PUBLIC STREETS, ROADS, OR HIGHWAYS. THE USE OF THIS VEHICLE SHOULD BE LIMITED TO PARTICIPATION IN SANCTIONED COMPETI- TION EVENTS UPON A CLOSED COURSE. THIS VEHICLE SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR GENERAL OFF-ROAD RECREATIONAL RIDING, DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY. THIS MOTORCYCLE IS SOLD AS IS, WITH ALL FAULTS, OBVIOUS OR CONCEALED AND THERE ARE NO WARRANTIES EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OF FITNESS, The purchaser accepts all responsibilities con- cerning quality, performance, cost of service and/or necessary repairs IMPORTANT Off-road motorcycle riding is a wonderful sport, and we hope you will enjoy it to the fullest. However, if improperly conducted, the sport has the Potential to cause environmental problems as well as conflicts with other people. Responsible use of your off-road motorcycle will ensure that these problems and conflicts do not occur. TO PROTECT THE FUTURE OF YOUR SPORT, MAKE SURE YOU USE YOUR BIKE LEGALLY, SHOW CONCERN FOR THE ENVIRONMENT, AND RESPECT THE RIGHTS OF OTHER PEOPLE.(UK model only) WARNING CONTAINS ‘ASBESTOS Follow safety This warning may apply to any of the following components or any assembly containing one or ‘more of these components: — Brake Shoes or Pads Cluteh Friction Material Gaskets Insulators SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS. ‘Operate if possible out of doors or in a well vemtlated place ‘Preferably use hand tools or low speed tools equipped, if necessary, with an appropriate dust extraction facility. If high speed tools are used, they should always be so equipped if possible, dampen before cutting or drilling feDampen dust and place it in properiy closed receptacle and dispose of it safely.Foreword Congratulations for choosing this KAWASAKI Motorcycle, which has been developed through Kawesaki engineering to produce a light weight, high performance machine with superb handling and stability for racing and sporting use. Your new KX250 is a highly tuned production racer for participation in racing events. As with any mechanical device, proper care and maintenance are important for trouble-free operation and top performance. This guide is written to enable you to keep your KX250 properly tuned and adjusted. Due to improvements in design and performance during production, in some cases there may be minor discrepancies between the actual vehicle and the illustrations and text in this manual. Brake linings contain asbestos fiber. Inhalation of asbestos may cause serious scarring of the lungs and may promote other internal injury and illness, including cancer. Observe the following precau- ns when handling brake linings: 1, Never blow brake lining dust with compressed air. 2. If any components are to be cleaned, wash with detergent, then immediately discard the cleaning solution and wash your hands. 3. Do not grind any brake lining material unless a ventilation hood is available and properly used. © Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd. 1987 Sep. 1987. @. © 4Specifications... . General Information Location of Parts, Side Stand Air Cleaner Rotary Shutter . Fail si pa san Starting the Engine Shitting Gears. . © Stopping the Motorcycle, . Stopping the Engine. .. Break-In. Daily Pre-ride Inspection. . Aftor Race Check Points. Maintenance and Adjustment, Per‘odic Maintenance Chart. Transmission oil Cooling System. Spark Plug... Ignition Tit AirCleaner, Throttle Cable Carouretor Clutch. . Exhaust System ww TABLE OF CONTENTS 1 Drive Chain . . Handlebar . Brakes, Steering. Front Fork... Rear Suspension (Uni-Trak). Wheels Bolt and Nut Torque Table Cleaning... Lubrication .. Troubleshooting . Tuning Carburetor Tuning. Suspension Tuning, Gearing : Special Care According to Track Conditions. ihtening, Storage Wiring Diagram.Dimensions Overall length Overall width Overall height Wheelbase Road clearance Dry weight Fudd tank capacity Engine Type Bore and stroke Displacement Compression ratio Port timing: Intake Open Close ‘Scavenging Open Close Exhaust Open Close Carburetor Lubrication system Starting system Ignition system Ignition timing Spark plug " SPECIFICATONS “11 2.200 mm (86.6 in) 815 mm (82.1 in) 1.205 mm (47.4 in) 1.500 mm (59.1 in) 370 mm (14.6 in) 96.5 keg (213 Ib} 9.9 L (2.62 US gal) earl sn elitr, wea vl ced Th licensed under one or more of Eyvind Boyesen's Patent Nos:3 605 340. 3 905 941. Re. 80 425, 4 082:331,4 161 168, 4-202 298 and 4 202 299, 67.4 x 70.0 mm (2.65 x 2.76 in) 249 mL (15.25 cu in) 101:1 Full open 59,5” BBDC 59,5" ABDC 90° BBDC. 90° ABDC KEIHIN PWK39 Petrol mix (32: 1) Primary kick CDI system 13° BTDC @6 000 r/min (rpm) NGK B9EG @@ NGK BRIEG‘Transmission ‘Transmission type Clutch type Driving system Gear ratio: 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Primary reduction ratio Final reduction ratio Overall drive ratio Transmission oil Capacity ‘Type Frame Type Steering angle Castor Tall Tire i Front Rear Suspension: Front Rear Front suspension stroke Rear wheol travel Front fork oil (each) Front fork oil level (compressed, spring removed) Brake Type: Effective disc diameter: Front and Rear Front Rear Speed, constant mesh, return shift Wer, multi aise Chain drive 2.138 (32/15) 1.887 (27/16) 1.388 (25/18) 1.136 (25/22) 1.000 (24/24) 2.780 (55/20) 3.357 (47/14) 8.232 (Top gear) 800 mL (0.85 US at) SE class SAE 101730 or 1040 Tubular, single down tube 45° w either side 28° 129 mm (5.1 in) 80/100:21 51M, DUNLOP K490 © DUNLOP K990, 110/100-18 64M, DUNLOP K595 © DUNLOP k990 Telescopic fork (Air fork) Swing arm (Uni-trak) 300 mm (11.8 in} 330 mm (13.0 in) KAYABA 01 or SAE 5W, 531 — 539 mL (17.95 — 18.22 US oz) 128 ~ 132 mm (5.0 ~ 5.2 in) Dise brake 220 mm (8.7 in) 190 mm (7.5 in} Specifications subject to change without notice, and may not apply to every country. © + Canadian mode! © = European model + U.K. modelLocation of Parts |. Clutch Lever . Engine Stop Button . Fuel Tank Cap |. Front Brake Reservoir 5. Front Brake Lever Thottle Grip |. Front Fork Radiator Ful Tank . Fuel Tap. |. Carburetor Air Cleaner Housing . Seat . Brake Dise Brake Caliper . Shift Pedal Rear Shock Absorber 3. Swing Arm 1. Drive Chain 1. Chain Guide. Silencer Gas Reservoir |. Rear Brake Reservoir |. Unictrak Tie Rod and Rocker Arm Kick Pedal Rear Brake Pedal . Transmission Oil Level Gauge . MufflerSide Stand Position the side stand through the gusset portion at the lett side of the frame pipe with the longer bar facing inside and parallel with the connection frame pipe. A. Side Stand. Connection Frame Pipe B. Longer Bar NOTE Do not start the engine or ride the motorcycle when the side stand is used. 10 Air Cleaner Rotary Shutter ( A rotary shutter is equipped to the left and right sides of the air cleaner case respectively. When the shutter is opened, extra air is led to the air cleaner case, so more efficient intake is obtained. NOTE ©The rotary shutter should be closed in the wet condi- tion to prevent rain from entering. ‘A. Rotary ShutterFuel ‘Tne Kawasaki KX has a Zstroke engine that requires 42 gasaline-oll mixture. ‘The capacity of the fuel tank is 9.9 L (2.62 US gal) To open the fuel tank cap, pull out the breather hose from the hole of the number plate, and turn the tank ‘cap counterclockwise A. Fuel Tank Cap B. Breather Hose Recommended Fuel Use premium gasoline with an octane rating equal to fo higher than that shawn in the table. Minimom Octane Hating Method neta Antiknock Index Hon on 80 Research Octane No. (RON) 95 NOTE olf “knocking” or “pinging” occurs, try a different ‘brand of gasoline or higher actane grade, Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosi under certain conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure the area is well ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light. Engine Oi Mi i! must be mixed with the gasoline to lubricate the piston, cylinder, crankshaft, bearings, and connecting rod bearings Recommended Oil: oKawasaki 2stroke racing oil ‘Shell Super-M Castrol A747 Castrol TTS (A545) Rock Oil K2. uNOTE MF none of the recommended oils are available, use 2stroke racing oil only. Gasoline and engine oil mi : 32:1 (Gasoline 32, Engine Oil 1) (A 32 to 1 mixture is 4 fluid ounces of oil per gallon of gasoline or about 31 mL. of oil per liter of gasoline.) ‘©Do not mix vegetable and mineral based oils. ©Too much oil will cause excessive smoking and spark plug fouling, Too litte oll will eause engine damage oF premature wear, To make an gasoline-oil mixture, pour oll and half of the gasoline into a container first and stir the mixture thoroughly. Then add the rest of the gasoline and stir the mixture well NOTE At low temperature, ofl will not easily mix with gaso line. Take time to ensure a well-olencied mixture. ©The lubricative quality of this mixture deteriorates rapidly; use a fresh mixture for each day of operation. 2 Starting the Engine ‘8Turn the fuel tap to ON. A. Fuel Tap B. ON position ‘elf the engine is cold, pull up the choke knob. A. Choke Knob‘Kick the engine over, leaving the throttle closed, A. Kiek Pedal ‘Even after the engine starts, keep the choke knob pulled up. When the engine is thoroughly warmed up, push down the choke knob, NOTE l¥en the engine Is already warm or on hot days, open the throttle part way instead of using the choke knob. Of the engine is flooded, kick with the throttle fully pen until the engine starts. If the clutch lever is pulled, the motorcycle can be started while in any gear Shifting Gears ‘The transmission is a Sspeed, return shift type with neutral halfway between 1st and 2nd gears. A “return shift"" means that to go back to first gear from a higher ‘gear, you must shift back through the gears one by one. ‘The same is true when upshifting: each gear must be engaged before the next higher gear may be selected, ‘To engage first gear from neutral, pull in the clutch lever and push down on the shift pedal, gently release the clutch lever, then release the shift pedal. To shift to the next higher gear: pull in the clutch lever, lft the shift pedal with your toe, gently release the clutch lever, and then release the shift pedal To shift to the next lower gear; disengage the clutch, push the shift pedal down as far as it will go, engage the ‘clutch gently, and then release the shift pedal, When changing gears, press firmly on the shift pedal to ensure complete, positive shifting. Careless, ineomplete shifts can cause the transmission to jump out of gear and lead to engine damage, 13‘Stopping the Motorcycle For maximum deceleration, close the throttle and apply both front and rear brakes. Disengage the clutch as the motorcycle comes to a stop. Independent use of the front or rear brake may be advantageous under certain conditions. Downshift progressively as speed is reduced to ensure good engine response when you want 10 accelerate. 4 Stopping the Engine ‘eShift the transmission into neutral, ‘After racing the engine slightly, close the throwle ‘completely and push the engine stop button. ‘A. Engine Stop Button ‘Turn the fuel tap to the OFF (Stop) position.Break-In To obtain the proper operating clearances in the tengine and transmission that are necessary for smooth engine performance and reliability, @ brief break-in procedure must be carried out. For the first hour or 20 km (12 mi) of operation, run the engine at low and moderate r/min (rpm), NOTE The slow riding necessary during the break-in period ‘may cause carbon to build up an the spark plug and foul it. If inspection of the spark plug shows this to be the case, replace the standard NGK B9EG (Canada and U.K BRIEG) with an NGK B8EG (Canada and U.K. BR8EG) for the duration of the break-in period. Break-in according to following steps. 1. Start the engine and let it run at idle until the engine is thoroughly warmed up. 2. Stop and let the engine cool campletely. 3. Start the engine and ride for 10 minutes at moder ate speed — NEVER HARD ACCELERATION. 4. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Be sure to check and adjust chain slack and spoke tightness ard make a general inspection. 5. Start the engine and ride for 20 minutes at moder- ate speed — NEVER HARD ACCELERATION. 6. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Check and adjust as step 4. Then drain the coolant, remove the cylinder head, cylinder and piston, and inspect these parts Piston: A piston scored at the piston skirt could lower engine per- formance or damage the cylinder wall. Such scores, if any, must bbe smoothed with #400 to #600 ‘emery cloth. Decarbon the exhaust ports and the upper part of the cylinder, taking care not to damage the cylinder wall. Scores on the cylinder wall should be smoothed with #400 to #600 emery cloth. Remove the carbon inside the combustion chamber. 7, Install the parts removed. 8. Fill the radiator up to the radiator filler neck with coolant. Before putting the motorcycle into opera- tion, bleed the ait from the cooling system. 9. Start the engine and ride for 30 minutes at moder- ate spead — NEVER HARD ACCELERATION, 10. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Check and. adjust as Step 4. 11. After the breakin procedure has been properly carried out, the motoreycle is ready for regular Operation. “However, since recklessly high r/min (pm) will lead to engine trouble, take cate to use the necessary skill and technique in operating the ‘motoreyele Cylinder: Cylinder Head: 5NOTE After break-in, install @ new NGK B9EG (Canada and U.K.: BR9EG) spark plug, and change the transmission oil, For your referent To keep optimum engine performance replace the piston rings with new ones after brea} 16 Daily Pre-ride Inspection Check the following items each day before you ride ‘The time required is minimal, and habitual performance of these checks will help ensure you a safe, reliable ride. If any irregularities are found during these checks, refer to the appropriate owner's manual section and take the action required to return the motorcycle to a safe operating condition. Failure to perform these checks every day before you ride may result in serious damage or a sovere at Engine Transmission oil... ... Transmission oil level correct. Coolant... No coolant leakage, coolant level correct (when engine is cold) Radiator cap. . «Properly installed. Spark plug... 2.22.1 Tighten to correct torque. Cylinder head + Tighten to correct torque. Cylinder «Tighten to correct torque. Clutch... + Clutch functioning properly. Carburetor + Adjusted property. Air cleaner { Clean, properly installed, Muffler + Muffler not damaged. Engine sprocket Not worn or damaged.Frame Tires Spokes - Drive chain. Brakes; front and rear. Throttle... Steering. Front fork Rear shock absorber. Fuel tank. . Rear sprocket... Engine stop button . - Nuts, bolts, fasteners - Check overall condition; wear, cuts and other damage. Check pressure. «+ Check for any loose spokes. = Check overall condition and chain slack, oil as necessary, « Funetion properly, brake lever and pedal have correct, play. « Functions properly, returns smoothly, = Action is smooth but not loose from lock to lock. No binding of control cables. Functions properly, no oil leakage. Funetion properly, no. oil leakage. « Mounted securely, no fuel leakage. Not worn or damaged. Functions properly. Tighten any loose bolts and ruts. After Race Check Points After racing, first clean the motorcycle (Pg. 59), then inspect the entire motorcycle with special attention to the air cleaner, carburetor, brakes, etc. Carry out general lubrication (Pg. 60) and make adjustments as necessary. 7nimi MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT ‘rvtrreaennnnerniennenen ‘The maintenance and adjustments outlined in this chapter are easily carried out and must be done in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart to keep the motorcycle in good running condition. Periodic Maintenance Chart FREQUENCY Each | Every | Every| Every OPERATION race |3 races|5 races| 10 races Clutch-adjust ° *Clutch plates-check 7 . = Throttle cable-adjust ° [30 Spark plug-clean, gap + ° [25 | Air cleaner element-clean ° 27 Air cleaner element-replace Damaged 27 | Carburetor-inspect/adjust . 7 31 Transmission oil-change . 21 | FPiston-clean/check + ° & | 2Cylinder-inspect ° 2 | ZExhaust advancer system-check { ° “| $Piston/eylinder clearance-inspect ° = Small end bearing-check + e = Vain bearing check + =. = *Big end bearings--check 7 ° = Exhaust pipe O-ring-replace . 3 Engine sprocket-check 7 — ° 37 Coolant--change e/a Radiator hoses, connections-check . z 22 | Brake adjustment-check # ° 40 Brake wear-check } ° a2 18[----—_ FREQUENCY Each | Cvery] Every] Evry] As | See OPERATION. race |3 races|6 races| 10 races| required| Page Brake fluid level-check > . "Brake fluid-change Brake master cylinder cup and dust seal--replace — “Brake caliper piston seal and dust seal-replace ‘years years - years = “Brake hose-replace ars = ‘Spoke tightness and rim runout-check 53,54] Drive chain-adjust 35 Drive chain-lubri ° 38,61 |_Drive chain wea ° 36 $ |_Chain slipper and guide-replace Damaged 37 & [Front fork-inspect/clean ey I I a4 = | “Front fork oil-change ist time after 2 races, then every 5 races|_— | Nuts, bolts, fasteners-check ° [ i 56 | Fuel hose-replace Every 4 years = Fuel system-clean . = ‘Steering play--check ° a * Steering stem bearing-grease 2 = Rear sprocket-check + ° 37 General lubrication-perform . 60. Wheel bearing-grease = = "Swing arm and Uni-trak linkage pivots-check 7 . \g arm and Uni-trak linkage pivots-grease . = ‘st time after 2 races, then every 6 races | _— + Replace, add, adjust or torque if necessary. + Should be serviced by referring to the Service Manual 19Transmission Oil In order for the transmission and clutch to funetion properly, maintain the transmission oil at the proper level, and change the oil periodically. Motorcycle opera tion with insufficient, deteriorated, or contaminated transrrission oil will cause accelerated wear and may result in transmission seizure. Oil Level ‘*Situate the motoreycle so that it is perpendicular to the ground. ‘elf the motorcycle has just been used, wait several ‘minutes for all the oil to settle. ‘*Check the transmission oil level through the oll level gauge in the lower right side of the engine. The oil level should come up between the upper and lower level ‘A. Oil Level Gauge B. Upper Level 20 +1F the oil level is too high, romove the axeess oil using a syringe or other suitable device. ‘If the oil level is low, add the correct amount of oil through the oil filler opening. Use the same tyne and brand of oil that is already in the engine. ‘Transmission Oil Grad ‘SE class Viscosity: SAE 10WV30 or 10040 motor oil Capacity: 800 mL (0.85 US qt)Oil Change ‘The transmission oll should be changed periodically to ensure long engine life. ‘eWarm up engine thoroughly so that the oil will pick up any sediment and drain easily ‘Stop the engine, and place an oll pan beneath the engine. ‘¢Remove the drain plug and position the vehicle so that is perpendicular to the ground to allow all the oil to drain out. ‘Install the drain plug with its gasket, 20 Nem (2.0 kgm, 14.5 ft1b) of torque. ‘¢Remove the ol filler opening plug, and pour in 800 mL. (0.85 US at) of fresh transmission oi ‘*Check the oil level, after kicking the kick pedal 3 or 4 times. ‘install the oil filer opening plug. ightening it to aCooling System Coolant Coolant absorbs excessive heat from the engine and transfers it to the air at the radiator. If the coolant level ‘becomes low, the engine overheats and may suffer severe damage. Check the coolant level each day before riding the motorcycle. Replenish coolant ifthe level is low. To avoi ‘to change the coolant when the engine is until it cools down. bburns, do not remove the radiator cap or try ill hot. Wait Coolant Information To protect the cooling system aluminum parts (engine and radiator) from rust and corrosion, the use of corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals in the coolant is essential. If coolant containing corrosion and rust inhibitar chemicals is not used, over a period of time, the cooling system accumulates rust and scale in the water jacket and radiator. This will clog coolant pas- sages, and reduce the efficiency of the cooling system. Use of incorrect coolant solutions will cause severe ‘engine and cooling system damage. Use coolant containing corrosion inhibitors made specifically for aluminum engines and rediators in accordance with the instructions of the manufacturer. 2 Coolant chemicals are harmful to the human body. Follow coolant manufacturer warnings and coolant handling instructions. Soft or distilled water must be used with the inhibitor ‘chemicals and the antifreeze (see below for antifreeze) in lf hard water is used in the system, it causes sale ‘accumulation in the water passages, and considerably reduces the efficiency of the cooling system, If the lowest ambient temperature encountered falls below the freezing point of water, protect the cot system against engine and radiator freezeup, Use a Permanent type of anti-freeze (soft lycol plus corrosion and rust in aluminum engines and radiators) in the cooling system, For the coolant mixture ratio under extreme conditions, choose the mixture ratio listed on the container for the lowest ambient temperature. Permanent types of antifreeze on the market have anticorrosion and anti-rust properties. When it Is diluted excessively, it loses its anti-freeze and anti- ‘corrosion properties. Dilute @ permanent type ofantifreeze in accordance with the instructions of ‘manufacturer. NOTE A permanent type of antifreeze is installed in the cooling system when shipped. It is colored green, contains a 43% It is colored green, contains a 43% solution of ethylene glycol, and has a freezing point of 30°C (22°F), Coolant Level ‘*Situate the motorcycle so that itis perpendicular to the ‘ground. ‘¢Remove the radiator cap in two steps. First turn the cap counterclockwise to the first stop and wait there for a few seconds, Then push and turn it further in the same direction and remove the cap. A. Radiator Cap Check the coolant level in the radiator. The coolant level should be to the radiator filer neck. NOTE Check the level when the engine is cold (room or ambient temperature). A. Coolant Level B. Breather Hose ‘elf the coolant level is low, add the correct amount of coolant through the filler opening Recommended coolant: Permanent type of antifreeze (soft water and ethylene glycol plus corrosion and rust inhil itor chemicals for aluminum engines and radiators) Water and coolant mixture ratio: 1:1 (Water 50%, Coolant 50%) Total amount: 1.1 L(1.2US qthCoolant Change The coolant should be changed periodically to ensur long engine life ‘eWait the engine to cool completely. ‘Situate the motoreycle so that it is perpendicular to the ground. ‘@Remore the radiator cap. ‘ePlace a container under the coolant drain plug, and drain the coolant from the radiator and engine by removing the drain plug at the bottom of the water pump cover. Immediately wipe or wash out any coolant that spills on the frame, engine, or wheel ‘Place a container under the drain plug on the right side Cf the cylinder and drain the coolant by removing the drain plus, 24 Coolant on tires will make them slippery and can cause an accident and injury ‘*Visually inspect the old coolant. If whitish cotton-tike wafts are observed, aluminum parts in the cooling system are corroded. If the coolant is brown, iron fF steel parts are rusting. In either case, flush the cooling system. Check the cooling system for damage, loose joints, or leaks. ‘install the water pump cover and cylinder drain plugs with the specified torques shown in the table. Always replace the gasket with a new one, if itis damaged.Drain Plug Torque Water Pump Cover Plug: 15 Nem (1.5 kgm, 11 fulb) Cylinder Drain Plug: 9 N-m (0.9 kgm, 78 ino) ‘Fill the radiator up to the radiator filler nock with coolant, and install the radiator cap. ‘Check the cooling system for leaks. ‘Start the engine, warm up the engine thoroughly, then stop the engine, ‘Check the coolant level after the engine cools down, ‘Ad¢ coolant up to the specified level. Spark Plug ‘The standard spark plug is an NGK B9EG (Canada and U.K; BR9EG), It should have a 0.6 — 0.7 mm (0.024 — 0.028 in) gap, and be tightened to 27 N-m (2.8 kg-m, 20 ftib) of torque. Spark Plug Gap 0.6-0.7 mm (0.024—0.028 in) ‘The spark plug should be take out periodically to ‘check its gap and ceramic insulator. If the plug is cl hhas carbon built up on it, clean it (praferably wi sandblaster) and then clean off any abrasive part The plug may also be cleaned using a high flash-point solvent and a wire brush or other suitable tool. Measure the gap with a wire-type thickness gauge, and adjust the 2p, if incorrect, by bending the outer electrode. If the spark plug electrodes are corroded or damaged, or if insulator is cracked, replace the plug. 25To find out whether the right temperature plug is being used, pull it out and examine the ceramic insulator around the center electrode. If the ceramic is light brown, the spark plug is correctly matched to engine temperctura. If the oaramic is burned white, the plug should be replaced with the next colder type, NGK BI0EG (Canada and U.K.: BRIQEG). If the ceramic is blaok, the plug should be replaced with the next hotter type, NGK BBEG (Canada and U.K.: BR8EG). NOTE lf the engine performance drops, replace the spark plug first to regain performance. Ignition Timing Because a capacitor discharge ignition (CDI) system is used on this motorcycle, the ignition timing should hnever require adjustment unless the magneto stator Is incorrectly installed during engine reassembly. However, if there is any doubt as to the timing, inspect and adjust, if necessary, as follows: Ignition Timing Adjustment ‘eRemove the magneto cover. ‘Loosen the magneto starter screw. ‘Check to see if the center mark of the three marks on ‘the magneto stator is aligned with the mark on the crankcase. ‘IF the marks are not aligned, loosen the other magneto stator serew and turn the magneto stator. ‘Tighten the screws securely. ‘install the magneto cover.a. B. Timing Mark (Stator Plate) ©. Screw D. Magneto Stator ming Mark (Crankease) Air Cleaner A clogged air cleaner restricts the engine intaking, inereasing fuel consumption, reducing engine power, and causing spark plug fouling. A clogged air cleaner may allow dirt and dust to enter ‘the carburetor and stick the throttle open. This could ‘cause an accident, [cavTion A clogged air cleaner may allow dirt and dust to enter the engine causing excessive wear and possible engine damage. Inspect the element, without fil, before and after each racing or practice session. Clean it if necessary. ‘Remove the seat. ‘©Remove the wing bolt, and pull out the element. arStuff rags into the carburetor 20 no dirt is allowed to enter the carburetor. Take the element off the frame. A. Element ‘©Do not twist or wring the element, as it can easily be tom or otherwise damaged. Clean the element in a bath of a high flash-point A. Element B. Wing Bolt solvent, and squeeze the element dry.Clean the element in a well-ventilated area, and take ‘are that there are no sparks or flame anywhere near ‘the working area; this includes any appliance with a pilot light. Do not use gasoline or a low flash-point solvent to clean the element. A fire or explosion could result, ‘After cleaning, saturate the element with 2stroke racing oil or high-quality foamair-filter oll, squeeze out ‘the exoess oil, then wrap it in a clean rag and squeeze it as dry as possible. Be careful not to tear the element. ‘*inspect the element for damage. If damaged, replace it or it will allow dirt into the carburetor. OWf dirt oF dust is allowed to pass through into the carburetor, the throttle may become stuck, possibly Of dirt gets through into the engine, excessive engine wear and possibly engine damage will occur. ‘install the element on the frame, and coat the lip of the element with a thick layer of all purpose grease to assure a complete seal against the element base. Also, ‘coat the base where the lip of the element fits,Throttle Cable Inspect the throttle grip for smooth operation in all steering positions. In accordance with the Periodic ‘Maintenance Chart check and adjust the throttle cable. ‘Check that the throttle grip has 2 — 3 mm (0.08 0.12 in) of play and turns smoothly, Grease, install the element in the machine, and make sure the sealing surface of the element is seated properly ‘install the seat A. Adjuster ©. Throttle Grip B. Locknut D.2~ 3mm (0.08 ~ 0.12 in) ‘Ifthe play is incorrect, loosen the locknut on the upper end of the throttle cable, and turn the adjuster 10 ‘obtain the correct amount of play. Tighten the lock: rut.‘AIF the free play cannot be set by adjusting the upper ‘able adjuster, pull the rubber boot off of the cerbu- reior top. Make the necessary free play adjustment at the lower cable adjuster, tighten the locknut, and reinstall the rubber boot. A, Locknut B. Adjuster Carburetor ating Adjustment lating adjustment is carried out using the sir screw and idle adjusting screw. ‘First turn in the air screw until it seats lightly, and back it out 1% turns, After thoroughly warming up the engine, loosen the locknut, turn the idle adjusting screw to obtain the desired idle speed. If no idle is preferred, turn out the screw until the engine stops. Tighten the locknut. ‘A. Idle Adjusting Serew ©, Air Serew B. Locknut a‘®0pen and close the throttle a few times to make sure the idle speed does not change. Readjust if necessary. ‘eWith the engine idling, turn the handlebar to each side, If handlebar movement changes the idle speed, the throttle cable may be improperly adjusted or incor: rectly routed, or it may be damaged. Be sure to correct any of these conditions before riding. Operation with @ damaged cable could result in. an unsafe riding condition. Clutch Proper clutch lever play between the clutch lever and the clutch lever holder is 2 — 3 mm (0.08 — 0.12 in). Play increases with cable stretch and friction plate wear, necessitating adjustment. ‘When there is too much lever play, first try adjusting the cable at the clutch lever. ‘Slide the clutch lever dust cover out of place. ‘Loosen the knurled locknut, turn the adjuster to obtain the proper amount of lever play, and tighten the locknut, A. Clutch Lever B. Knurled Locknut ©. Adjuster 1D. 2— 3mm (0.08 — 0.12 in} ‘@Slide back the clutch lever dust cover.lf the adjuster at the clutch lever has reached its limit, adjust the cable with the adjusting nut at the upper of the dutch cable. ‘oosen the knurled locknut at the clutch lever. ‘@Turn the adjuster in all the way, then tighten the knurled locknut. ‘Loosen the locknut at the upper of the cable, and turn ‘the adjusting nut so that clutch lever has 2 — 3 mm. (0.38 —0.12 in) of play. ‘A. Adjusting Nut Tighten the locknut, ‘Slide the dust cover back into place. Exhaust System ‘The muffler and silencer reduce exhaust noise and conduct the exhaust gases back away from the rider while keeping power loss to a minimum. If carbon built Up inside the muttier, exhaust efficiency is reduced. This lowers engine power. If the muffler is badly damaged, dented, cracked or rusted, replace it with a new one. Replace the silencer wool if exhaust noise becomes too loud or oni performance drops. Silencer Wool Change ‘@Remove the right side cover, ‘@Remove the silencer mounting bolts and pull the silencer off toward the rear, ‘@Remoye the inner pipe mounting bolts, and pull out the inner pipe. Mounting Bolts B. Inner Pipe‘ePuill off the old silencer wool, and warp new silencer ‘wool around the inner pipe. A. Silencer Woo! ‘install the inner pipe into the silencer. ‘install te silencer, The drive chain must be checked, adjusted, and lubricated in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart for safety and to prevent excessive wear. If the chain becomes badly worn or maladjusted — either too loose or too tight — the chain could jump off the sprockets or break. OA chain that. breaks or jumps off the sprockets could snag on the engine sprocket or lock the rear wheel, severely damaging the motorcycle and causing it to go out of control. Slack Inspection With the motorcycle on the side stand, push up the {rive chain in the middle of the upper run to measure the chain play. The space between the chain and the swing arm at the rear of the chain slipper should be 50 — 60 mm (2.0 — 24 in). Rotate the rear wheel to find the lace where the chain is tightest (because it wears Uneventy). Adjust the drive chain if it has too much or 100 litte slack.‘A, 50 ~ 60 mm (2.0 — 2.4 in) In addition to checking the slack, rotate the rear wheel to inspect the drive chain and sprockets for damaged rollers, loose pin and links, unevenly or ex- cessively worn teeth, and damaged teeth. If there is any irregularity, replace the drive chain andlor sprockets. Slack Adjustment ‘Loosen the rear axle nut and both chain adjuster locknuts ‘eTurn both chain adjusting bolts evenly until the drive chain has 50 — 55 mm (2.0 ~ 2.2 in) of space between the chain and the swing arm. To keep the chain and wheel aligned, the notch on the left chain adjuster should align with the same swing arm mark that the notch on the right chain adjuster aligns with, A. Axle Nut D. Marks B. Adjusting Bolt. Note ©. Locknut NOTE Whee! alignment can also be checked using the straight- ‘edge or string method, ‘Misalignment of the wheel will result in abnormal wear ‘and may result in an unsafe riding condition. ‘Tighten both chain adjuster locknuts. Tighten the axle nut to 98 N-m (10 kgm, 72 ftb) of torque, 35‘*Rotate the wheel, measure the chain slack again at the tightest position, and readjust if necessary OMf the axle nut is not securely tightened, an unsafe riding condition may result. NOTE ln wet and muddy conditions, mud sticks to the chain and sprockets resulting in an overly tight chain, and the ‘chain may break. To prevent this, adjust the chain to 55 ~ 65 mm (2.0 — 26 in) of space between the ‘chain and swing arm whenever necessary. Drive Chain, Chain Guide, Chain Slipper, and Sprockets Wear Inspection When the chain has worn so much that is more than 2% longer than when new, itis no longer safe for use and should be replaced. Whenever the chain is replaced, inspect both the engine and rear sprockets, and replace them if necessary. Overworn sprockets will cause a new chain to wear quickly Drive Chain Wear Since itis impractical to measure the entire length of the chain, determine the degiee of weur by measuring a 20:1ink length of the chain. Stretch the chain taut either by using the chain adjuster, or by hanging a 10 kg (20 1b} weight on the chain. Measure the length of 20 links on a straight part of the chain from the canter Of the 1st pin to the center of the 21st pin. If the length {is greater than the service limit, the chain should be replaced. 36 A. Weight B. Measure Drive Chain Length ‘Standard ‘Service 307.5 mm (12.1 in) 314 mm (12.4 in) NOTE Othe drive system was designed for use with a DAIDO D.1.D 520085 114 link chain. For maximum stretch resistance and safety, a genuine part must be used for replacement. ©To minimize any chance of the master link coming apart, the master link clip must be installed with the ‘closed end of the “U” pointed in the direction of chain rotation.Chain Slipper Wear Visually inspect the uppor and lower chain slippers on the swing arm. If the chain slipper is worn or damaged, replace it ¥ ~ @ iS A. clip 8 Chain Guide Wear Visually inspect the drive chain guide. If the guide is womn excessively damaged, replace it. ‘A. Chain Slipper B. Swing Arm Sprocket Wear Visually inspect the sprocket teeth. If they are worn for damaged, replace the sprocket. NOTE Sprocket wear is exaggerated for illustration. ‘A. Chain Guide 37Sprocket Apply oil to the cide of the rollers 20. that it will penetrate to the rollers and bushings. Wipe off any excess oll. Worn “ooth Worn Tooth (Engine Sprocket) (Rear Sprocket) Direction of rotation Lubrication Lubrication is necessary after riding through rain or in the mud, or any time that the chain appears dry. A, heavy oil such as SAEO is preferred to a lighter oil because it will stay on the chain longer and provide better lubrication, 38Handlebar To suit various riding positions, the handlebar pos!- tion can be adjusted by handlebar holder tun front to rea, Handlebar Position Adjustment ‘Remove the handlebar clamp and bolts, and take off the handlebar, ©. Cut Side ‘A. Handlebar Clamp B. Bolts Loosen the handlebar holder nuts, turn about the handlebar holder, and tighten the nuts securely. ‘A, Handlebar Hold B. Nut ‘°Mount the clamp so that the cut side on the clamp Points at the rear. Tighten the clamp bolts, front first and then the rear, to 25 Nan (2.6 kam, 18 fib) of torque. If the hhandiebar clamp is correctly installed, there will be no gap at the front and an even gap at the rear after tightening.Brakes Disc and disc pad wear is automatically compensated for and has no effect on the brake lever or pedal action. So there are no parts that require adjustment on the brakes except brake lever play, brake pedal position and, pedal play. Front Brake Lever Play ‘Adjust the front brake lever to suit you, To adjust the brake lever play, loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster to either side, After adjustment, tighten the Tocknut securely, A. Brake Lever, B. Adjuster ©. Locknut Rear Brake Pedal Position ‘Adjust the rear brake pedal position to suit you. To adjust the pedal position, loosen the locknut, turn the adjusting bolt, and then tighten the locknut. B. Adjusting Bolt ear Brake Pedal Play Adjust the rear brake pedal play to suit you. To adjust the pedal play, loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster on the rear master cylinder. After adjustment, tighten the locknut securelyA. Adjuster C. Rear Brake Pedal B. Rear Master Cylinder. Locknut Olf the brake lever or pedal fools mushy when it is applied, there might be air in the brake lines or the brake may be defective. Since it is dangerous to ‘operate the motorcycle under such conditions, have the brake checked immediately. Dise Brake Fluid In accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart, inspect the brake fluid level in the reservoirs and change the brake fluid. The brake fluid should also be changed if itbecomes contaminated with dirt or water. Fluid Requirement Recommended fluid are given in the table. If none of the recommended brake fluids are available, use extra heavy-duty brake fluid only from a container marked 0.0.73, Recommended Disc Brake Fluid ‘Atlas Extra Heavy Duty Shell Super Heavy Duty ‘Texaco Super Heavy Duty Wagner Lockheed Heavy Duty Castrol Girling-Universal Castrol GT (LMA) Castrol Dise Brake Fluid Fluid Level Inspection ©The front and rear reservoirs must be kept more than half full with brake fluid, If the amount of brake fluid is insufficient, add brake fluid, {caution ©©Do not spill brake fluid onto any painted surface. Do not use fluid from a container that has been left ‘open or that has beon unsealed for a tong time, ‘Check for fluid leakage around the fittings. Check for brake hose damage, Change the brake {luid in the brake line completely if the brake fluid ‘must be refilled but the type and brand of the brake fluid already in the reservoirs are unidentified. a‘A. Rear Reservoir 42 Broke Wear Inspection In accordance with the Periadie Maintenance Chart, inspect the brakes for wear. For each front and rear dise brake caliper. if the thickness of either pad is less than 1 ‘mm (0.04 in), replace both pads in the caliper as a set. Pad replacement should be done by an authorized Kawasaki Dealer. Pad Usable Range A : b ® A. Lining ThicknessSteering ‘The steering should always be kept adjusted so that, the handlebar will turn freely but not have excessive la To. check the steoring adjustment, first place a stand fr block under the engine so that the front wheel is raised off the ground. Push the handlebar lightly to either side; if it continues moving under its own momen. ‘tum, the steering is not too tight. Squatting in front of ‘the motorcycle, grasp the lower ends of the front fork at the axle, and push and pull the bottom end of the front fork back and forth; if play is felt, the steoring is too loose. If the steering needs adiustin ‘Remove the number plate, ‘Place a stand or block under the frame to raise the front wheel off the ground. ‘Remove the steering stem head nut and loosen the front fork upper clamp bolts. ‘Pull out the handlebar and steering stem upper bracket from the steering stem. ‘A, Stem Head Nut ‘eTum the steering stem locknut with the stem nut wrench (special tool) to obtain the proper adjustment. 43A. Stem Locknut BB. Stem Nut Wrench: 57001-1100 ‘install the upper bracket and handlebar. Tighten the steering stem head nut to 44 Nem (4.5 kgm, 38 fb) of torque and front fork upper clamp bolts to 20 N-m (2.0 kgm, 14.5 ft-lb) of torque. ‘eCheck the steering again, and readjust it if necessary. ‘Install the number plate Front Fork ‘The front fork should always be adjusted for the rider's weight and track conditions by using one or more of the following methods, Basically, there are five adjustments you can make to the front fork. ‘#Air pressure adjustment — Air pressure acts as a pro- gressive spring and affects the entire range of fork travel, The air pressure in the fork increases as the fork heats up, so the fork action on your KX will get stiffer as the race progresses. Because of this, we don’t Fecommended using air pressure for additional springing. Your KX forks are designed to work without adding any air, but if you decide that you need additional air pressure, go no higher than 40 kPa (0.4 kg/em?,,6 psi. ‘*Compression damping adjustment — this adjustment ‘affects how quickly the compresses. The fork com- pression damping adjuster has 16 clicks. The seated position (full counterclockwise until the adjuster stops) is full soft. From the point, 8 clicks clockwise is the standard setting, and 16 clicks (full clockwise until the adjuster stops) is full hard, ‘AOil level adjustment — The effeets of higher or lower fork oil level are only felt during the final 100 mm (4 in) of fork travel. A higher oil level (more oil) will ‘make the fork rebound more quickly. A lower oil level (less cil) will make the fork rebound more slowly. ‘Fork springs — Optional springs are available that are softer and stiffer than standard,“*Fork clamp position — Steering qualities are greatly affected by the fork clamp position (If amount of the fork tube projecting above the steering stem heed). When the fork tube height is smaller, the front end becomes lighter due to change in weight bias, Also, it tend to understeer in turns and “wash out”. When the height is greater, the results are opposite. Air Pressure Adjustment ‘9Use @ jack under the engine or other suitable means to lift the front of the motorcycle. ‘Remove the air valve cap and check the alr pressure, ‘Standard fork air pressure is atmospheric pressure. NOTE ©Do not use the side stand when the air pressure is checked, Check the air pressure when the front forks are cold. if atmospheric pressure is insufficient for you, add air Using @ tire pump until the desired pressure is reached, Make sure that the pressure is equal in both forks. Maximum air pressure: 40 kPa (0.4 kg/em*, 6 psi) Olnject air little by little so that air pressure does not rise rapidly. Air pressure exceeding 250 kPa (2.5 kg/em?, ‘36 psi) may damage the oil seal. ‘Do not incinerate the front fork. Compression Damping Adjustment ‘°Clean the bottom of the outer tubes. ‘@Remove the caps on the bottom of the outer tubes, To adjust compression damping, turn the adjuster ‘on the front fork cylinder valve with the blade of @ screwdriver until you feel a click. Adjust the com: pression damping to suit your preference under special 45,A. Adjustor ‘Compression Damping Adjustment Softer <——— Standard > Harder o 2 4 6 8 0 2 4 16 Number of turns clockwise 1 tatlerang 8 ets ‘Seated position adjuster turned fully The left and right fork legs must have the same shock damping. ‘°Put the caps into the bottom of the outer tubes, 46 Oil Level Adjustment ‘Use a jack under the engine or other suitable means to lift the front of the motorcycle. ‘¢Remove the air valve caps and release any air pressure. When disassembling the front fork, first release the air pressure from the fork. Failure to first release the air ‘may cause injury. ‘Remove the handlebar clamp bolts and take out the handlebar. ‘Remove the top bolts from the top of the fork tubes, Slowly compress the front forks about 100 mm (4 in). ‘¢Hold the push rod steady using the spanner, and loosen ‘the top bolts, A. Top Bolt B. Push Rod‘@Renove the top bolts from the top of the push rod, ‘and pull out the spring seat, spacer, spring seat and spring. Check the O-ring of the top bolts for damage. If necessary, replace them. A. Top Bolt D. Spacer B. O-Ring E. Spring C. Spring Seat ‘Take out the jack or other suitable means under the engine, and slowly compress the front forks all the way. ‘in this position, insert a rod down into the tube, and ‘measure the distance from the top of the inner tube to the oil level. Standard Oil Level: 128 — 132 mm (5.0 — 52 in) Adjustable Range: 100 — 160mm, A. Rod Adjust the oil level as required within the adjustable ‘ange using one of the following oil, Recommended Gil: KAYABA 01 or SAE SW install the parts removed. a7Fork Spring Different fork springs are available to achieve suitable front fork action in accordance with the rider's weight and track condition, ‘Harder springs make the fork stiffer, and rebound action quicker. +*Softer springs make the fork softer, and rebound action slower. Fork Clamp Position Adjustment Steering qualities are greatly affected by the fork clamp position (the amount of the inner tube projecting above the steering stem head). When the fork tube height is smaller, the front end becomes lighter due to change in weight bias. Also, it tends to understeer in ‘turns and “wash out.” When the height is greater, the results are opposite Be sure the front tire does't rub the fender when the fork tubss compress fully. Make this adjustment in 5 mm (0.2in) increments, The inner tubes, both right and left, should be adjusted evenly. A. Tube HeightRear Suspension (Uni-Trak) “Tho rear suspension system of this motorcycle Is Unl- tuak. It consists of a rear shock absorber, swing arm, tie rod and rocker arm. In general the operating characteristics of the Uni ‘trak are similar to the front fork. But, in achieving progressive spring characteristics a linkage system is used ‘and gas pressure/volume adjustment makes only a little difference in spring action, To suit to various riding conditions, the spring preload of the shock absorber can be adjusted or the spring can be replaced with an optional one. Also the damping force can be adjusted easily so changing cil viscosity is unnecessary. ‘Shook Damping Adjustment: Feat Shock Absorber Rebound Damping Adjustment To adjust shock rebound damping, turn the rebound damoing adjuster on the rear shock absorber lower end with the blade of a screwdriver until you fool a dlick, If the damper setting feels too soft or too stiff, adjust it in accordance with the following table: Rebound Damping Adjustment ‘A. Rebound Damping Adjuster Gas Reservoir Compression Damping Adjustment To adjust compression damping, turn the compres: sion damping adjuster on the gas reservoir with the blade of a screwdriver until you feel a click. If the damper setting feels too soft or too stiff, adjust it in accordance with the following table. Compression Damping Adjustment Softer Harder (Counterclockwise) (Clockwise) 14 7 138 ee yy Number of turns clockwise usable range-16 clicks ‘Seated positions adjuster turned fully, ‘counterclockwise Softer <> Warder (Countercloctewise) (Clockwise) ar ie en er ae Eyey yy YY Number of turns clockwise usable range-16 clicks ‘Seated positions adjuster turned fully counterclockwise 49‘A. Compression Damping Adjuster B. Mark Gas Pressure Adjustment: ‘The ges pressure in the gas reservoir can be adjusted for different course and loading conditions The following table shows an example of gas pressure adjustment. To obtain stable handling or a suitable riding condition, adjust the gas pressure for different course and loading conditions as necessary. The standard gas pressure is 1200 kPa (12.0 kg/em*, 170 psi). Ordinarily, the heavier the total load becomes, the higher the gas prossure should be set. 50 Gae Pressure Adjustment (Adjustable Range) Gs Promure vn , UkPa (ka/em?, psi) | Sting | Lost | Cours 1-000 (10.0, 142) | Soft | Light) Smooth 1 ! I | 11800 (15.0,213)_ | Hard | Heavy | Rough To adjust the gas pressure: NOTE Check and adjust the gas pressure when the gas reser- voir is cold (room temperature). ‘9Use a jack under the engine or other suitable means to raise the rear wheel off the ground, ‘@Remove the valve cap and check the gas pressure with the air pressure gauge. A. Valve‘elf standard pressure is insufficient for you, add nitro: —_@Place a sturdy block or support under the frame so gen gas using a suitable tool until the desired pressure that the vear wheel is raised off the ground. teeched. Change the gas pressure within the range @Using the hook wrenches (special tools), loosen the specified in the table above to suit various riding locknut and turn the adjusting nut as required. ‘conditions. Turning the adjusting nut down makes the spring Use only nitrogen gas. Do not incinerate the gas reservoir. Spring Preload Adjustment ‘®Remove the seat, right and left side covers. ‘Loosen the air cleaner duct clamp serew. ‘@Remove the silencer. ‘@Remove the rear frame with the air cleaner case. ‘A. Adjusting Nut. Hook Wrenches: 57001-1101 B. Locknut Standard spring preload is 736 N (75 kg, 166 Ib), ‘The adjusting nut changes the preload 74 N (7.5 kg, 1710) turn. 51f@The standard adjucting nut position from the center of the upper mounting hole is 124. mm (4.9 in). The ijustable range is 109 — 129 mm (4.3 ~ 6.1 in). Tighten the locknut securely. ‘After adjustment, move the spring up and down to ‘make sure that the spring is seated, Ga A. Adjusting Nut Position, B. Locknut C. Adjusting Nut 82 Fear Shuck Absorber Spring Replacement In addition to the standard spring, hard and soft springs are available. If the standard spring is improper for your purpose, select a proper one according to the rider’s weight or course conditions, ‘*Using the harder spring: The spring rate is higher: the spring is stiffer and rebounds more quickly. ‘*Using the softer spring: The spring rate is lower; the spring is softer and rebounds more slowly. improper removal by spring from rear shock absorber body may cause the spring and/or associated parts to bbe ejected at high velocity. Always wear eye and face protection. Removal and installation of spring should bbe performed by an authorized Kawasaki Dealer.Wheels Tiros ‘Tire pressure affects traction, handling, and tire life. Adjust the tire pressure to suit track conditions and rider preference, but do not stray too far from the recom: ‘mended pressure. NOTE Tite Pressure should be checked when the tires are cold before you ride. Track Condition Tire Pressure [owen the track is wet, muddy, sandy | 80 kPa (0.8 or slippery,reduce the tire pressure to | kg/cm?, 11 psi) Increase the tire tread surface on the ground. JoWren the track is pebbly or hard, inerease the tire pressure to prevent damage or punctures, though the | 100 kPa (1.0 tires will skid more easily. kg/em?,, 14 paid Spokes and Rim ‘The spokes on both wheels must all be tightened securely and evenly and not be allowed to loosen. Unevenly tightened or loose spokes will cause the rim to warp, hasten nipple and overall spoke fatigue, and may result in spoke breakage. ‘A. Spoke and Spark Plug Wrench Boad Protector ‘There is a bead protector on the front and rear ‘wheels. ‘The bead protector prevents the tire and tube from slipping on the rim and damaging the valve stem. Valve stem damage may cause the tube to leak, neces: sitating tube replacement. In order that the tire and tube remain fixed in position on the rim, inspect the bead protector before riding and tighten it if necessary. Tighten the valve stem nut finger tight only. 53‘A, Bead Protector Nut Rim Runout ‘Set a dial gauge to the side of the rim, and rotate the wheel to measure axial runout. The difference between the highest and lowest dial readings is the amount of runout. Set the dial gauge to the inner circumference of the rim end rotate the wheel to measure radial runout, The difference between the highest and lowest dial readings is the arrount of runout. A certain amount of rim warp (runout) cen be corrected by recentering the rim, that is, loosening some spokes and tightening others to change the position of different parts of the rim. If the rim is badly bent, however, it should be replaced. 54 NoTE Weld area of the rim may show excessive runout, Dis- regard this when measuring runout. Rim Runout iui Runout wal Runout‘A. Radial Runout Rim Runout Sandard Service Limit under 0.5 mm Axial tender 09276) | 2.9 myn 6.08%) var | under 0.8 mm Radial | (under 0.03 in)Bolt and Nut Tightening Every day betore riding, check without fail the tightness of the bolts and nuts described here. Also, check to see ‘whether or not each cotter pin is in place and in good eandition. 1. Front Fork Clamp Bolts 2. Handlebar Clamp Bolts, 3. Clutch Lever Mounting Bolt 4. Cylinder Head Nuts 5. Spark Plug 6. Cylinder Nuts 7. Rear Frame Mounting Bolts 8. Air Cleaner Case Bolts 9, Seat Mounting Bolt 10. Bead Protector Nut 11. Spokes 12. Front Axle Clamp Nuts 13. Caliper Mounting Bolts 14 Front Fender Mounting Bolts 15. Radiator Mounting Bolts 16. Engine Mounting Bolts and Nuts 11, Shitt Pedal Bolt 18. Chain Guide Bolts 19. Chain Adjuster Locknut 20. Rear Axle Nut|. Silencer Mounting Bolts 9. rear Shock Absorber Bolts Muffler Mounting Bolts and Nut Engine Bracket Bolts Steering Stem Head Nut Brake Lever Mounting Bolt Tie Rod Mounting Bolt Rear Brake Pedal Bolt Rocker Arm Mounting Bolt Pivot Shaft Nut |. Kick Pedal Bolt Rear Brake Reservoir Mounting Bolt 87Torque Table Tighten sll bolts end nuts to the proper torque using an accuré torque wrench. A bolt or nut it insufficiently tightened may become damaged or fall out, possibly resulting in damage to the motorcycle and injury to the rid bolt or nut which is over-tightened may become damaged or break and then fall out. A Part Name tm tam fab Ovlinder Drain Pug 9 08 78 Gib) Oyler Head Nuts 5 25 8 | cylinder Nuts u 35 25 | Enaine Drain Pug 20 20 5 kick Pedal aott 10 10 87 (iniby 4) Shift Pedal Bolt 10 1.0 87 (in-Ib) Spark Plug 2 28 20 Water Pump Cover Drain Plug 15 15 " Caliper Mounting Bots 25 25 1a Dise Plate Mounting Screw 10 10 7 fino) Engine Bracket Bolts 25 25 18 Engine Mounting Bolts z 25 18 Front Axle Clamp Nuts 10 10 87 (into) Front Axle Nut a 55 40 Front Fork Clamp Botts 20 20 145 2| Front Fork Top Bots 2 28 20 B|Handleber lamp Bots 2 25 18 S| Pvotsnate Nut 78 a0 58 3) fear axte Nut 8 100 2 Rear Brake Pedal Bolt 9 09 78 (in-Ib) feat Frame Mountiny Bolts 2 25 18 Rear Shock Absorber Bots 4 as 25 Rear Sprocket Nuts 26 27 195 ‘Spokes 3 03 26 {in-Ib) Steering Stam Head Nut “4 45 3 Steering Stem Lockrut 4 oa 235 into) Unitrak Rocker Arm Bolt 81 a3 60 Unitrak Tie Rod Bolts 81 83 60Cleaning 1) Preparation for washing Before washing, precautions must be taken to keep water off the following places: Rear opening of the muffler. . Cover with a plastic bag secured with rubber bands, (Clutch and brake levers, hand grips, engine stop button . Aircleaner intake .- = Cover with plastic bags. + Close up the opening with ‘tape, or stuff in rags. 2) Where to be careful Avoid spraying water with any great force near the following places: Disc brake master cylinders and calipers Under the fuel tank... If water gets into the ignition coil or into the spark plug cap, the spark will jump through the water and be grounded out. When this happens, the motoreycle will not start and the affected parts must be wiped dry. Front and rear hubs Steering pivots (Steering stem head pipe) UniTrak system pivots ‘Swing arm pivot 3) After washing ‘Remove the plastic bags, and clean tne air cleaner intake. ‘Lubricate the points listed in the Lubrication Section. ‘eStart the engine and run it for 5 minutes. ‘Test the brakes before riding the motorcycle. ONever wax or lubricate the brake dise. Loss of braking ‘and an accident could result. Clean the disc with an coiless solvent such as trichoroethlene or acetone. Observe the solvent manufacture's warning.Lubrication Lubricate the points shown here, with either motor oil or regular grease, in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart or whenever the vehicle has been ‘operated under wet or rainy conditions, and especially after using @ high pressure spray washer. Before lubri- ‘eating each part, clean off any rusty spots with rust remover and wipe off any grease, oil, dirt, or grime, Goneral Lubrication Apply motor oil to the following pivots: ‘Rear Brake Pedal Rear Brake Rod Joints Kick PedalUse an aorosol cable lubricant with 2 pressure luber on all eablos: Clutch Inner Cable Throttle Inner Cable (Cable Lubri Lubrication is also necessary after ny Unrough rai oF on wet track, or any time that the chain appears dry. A heavy oil such as SAE 90 is preferred to a lighter oil because it will stay on the chain longer and provide better lubrication, ‘Apply oil to the side of the rollers so that it will penetrate to the rollers and bushings. Wipe off any ‘excess oil. Apply grease to the following points: ‘Clutch Inner Cable Upper End Throttle Inner Cable Upper End aEngine Doesn’t Start or Starting Engine won't turn over Oylinder, piston seizure Connecting rod small end seizure Connecting rod big end seizure ‘Transmission gear or bearing seizure Kick return spring broken Kick gear not engaging Compression low Cylinder worn Piston rings) worn, weak, broken, or sticking Piston ring groove and ring clearance excessive Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down Cylinder warped Cylinder head gasket damaged Crankshaft oil seal leak 'No spark or wear spark ‘Spark plug faulty ‘Spark plug cap poorly connected or shorted Igition coil faulty Wiring open or shorted Magneto faulty (layer short) No fuel flow 'No fuel in fuel tank. Fuel hose clogged Fuel tap clogged Float valve clogged Slow jet clogged Flooded Fuel level too high Float valve worn or stuck open Poor Runt Spark weak Spark plug faulty Ignition coil faulty ‘Spark plug cap, high tension lead short ‘Spark plug gap excessive Mixture t00 rich or too lean ‘Slow jet or air passage clogged Idle adjusting serew maladjusted Starter plunger stuck open Fuel level 100 high or too low Air cleaner clogged lotake manifold loose Tank cap air vent obstructed Compression low Cylinder worn Piston ring(s) worn, weak, broken, or sticking Piston ring groove and ring clearance excessive Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down Cylinder head warped Cylinder head gasket damaged Crankshaft oil seal leak Other Ignition timing incorrect ‘Transmission oil viscosity too high