5 PROJECTS IN GUILD  EDITION EVERY ISSUE!

Woodsmith.com Vol. 44 / No. 261

RIGHT-SIZED
ROUTER
TABLE
Also:
All-New Plans:
• Walnut Cabinet
• Valet Chair
• Bathroom Vanity
• Wood-Gear Clock
Mastering the Table Saw
Bridle Joinery
Great Gear
New Tools & Accessories
 ®

AN ACTIVE INTEREST MEDIA PUBLICATION

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Phil Huber

SENIOR EDITOR Erich Lage
ASSISTANT EDITOR Rob Petrie
from the editor
EXECUTIVE ART DIRECTOR Todd Lambirth
SENIOR ILLUSTRATOR Dirk Ver Steeg
SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNERS Bob Zimmerman,
Becky Kralicek
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR Erich Lage
Sawdust
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Chris Fitch
PROJECT DESIGN EDITOR Dillon Baker
Some of my favorite toys as a kid were Legos and Transformers. The
PROJECT DESIGNER/BUILDER John Doyle first for the process of creative building and the second for the way robots could
CAD SPECIALIST/BUILDER Steve Johnson
SHOP CRAFTSMAN Marc Hopkins be turned into cars and planes with a few simple moves. Both toys invited a level
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Chris Hennessey,
Jack Coyier of exploration and tinkering. It’s in that vein that we present the clock featured
on page 56. The movement of gears, the swinging pendulum, and the gentle
tick tock are a delight to experience. The design flows from the mind of Chris
Fitch. In past issues, he’s come up with a whirligig and weathervane — two
other projects that incorporate a sense of motion and transformation. He calls
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it “kinetic sculpture.” I’ll allow it and look forward to the next one.
Postmaster: Send address changes to Woodsmith, Box 37274, Boone, IA 50037-0274.
Chris made the clock parts using a CNC router. In the course of designing the
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VICE PRESIDENT CIRCULATION Paige Nordmeyer
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VICE PRESIDENT EVENTS Julie Zub pleted his Carpentry and Joinery training
ACCOUNTING MANAGER Stephen ONeill with the City and Guilds of London Insti-
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CREATIVE DIRECTOR Edie Mann
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AD PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Julie Dillon Woodsmith as a Shop Craftsman.
GRAPHIC DESIGNER Julie Green
To date: his favorite projects include a modern chess set turned on
PRESIDENT, HOME GROUP Peter H. Miller the lathe and a 14' plywood boat, which he later acquired — perk
PRESIDENT, MARINE GROUP Gary De Sanctis of the job! If he can escape the honey-do list and home remodeling
CFO Stephen Pompeo
projects, he coaches his son’s soccer team and gets out on the boat
CTO Brian Van Heuverswyn
CHAIRMAN Andrew W. Clurman with the family.
CHAIRMAN EMERITUS Efrem Zimbalist III

4 • Woodsmith / No. 261

contents
34
No. 261 • June/July 2022

Projects
designer project
Valet Chair. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Build a stylish companion to hold your clothes and
provide a seat to help you start the day.
shop project
Router Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
This not-so-big shop machine has everything you need to
tackle all your routing tasks.
heirloom project
Bahut Cabinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Dovetails and plenty of lovely black walnut make this cabi-
net a standout — and a delight to build.
designer project

42 Bathroom Vanity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Explore the lighter side of Arts & Crafts design while
giving your washroom an upgrade.
CNC project
Wall Clock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
The exposed gears you’ll make for this mechanical clock
are so fun to watch, you’ll forget to check the time.

Departments
from our readers
Tips & Techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
all about
Finding Studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

56 router workshop
Flattening Rough Stock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
great gear
Cool Tools & Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
mastering the table saw
Bridle Joints . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
Sources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66

Woodsmith.com • 5
 READER’S
Tips
Aluminium
channels keep
plates from
slipping

Counterbored
magnets keep plates
secure in the holder.

Compact Sharpening Holder

My woodshop is rather small, so I’m The plates are held by aluminum I used a 1" core box bit to create
always looking for ways to save stor- channels on one end and secured by a notches for finger grips in the side. I also
age space. One such way is this compact rare-earth magnet counterbored into the routed a recess in the top and bottom of
holder, made for two diamond sharpen- base, as you can see in the lower photo each end cap, as well as on the side of the
ing plates. Now I have four sharpening above right. I used my band saw with base (detail ‘b’). The recess on the base
surfaces in a single block. This holder the fence to cut the kerfs that fit one lip makes for an easy grip while the recess
makes it quick and easy to switch sharp- of each channel (detail ‘c’). I slightly on the caps add some visual interest.
ening surfaces for whatever I need, and recessed each side of the kerf on the table
the holder itself has the same footprint saw so the end caps could be screwed Hermie Tolerba
as just one plate. flush to the base. Sugarland, Texas

END CAP
(3" x 2#/4") a.

BASE !/2" rare-earth

(3" x 8!/4") magnet

1#/4

!/2"-dia.
#/16 !/8" deep
!!/16
#8 x 1" Fh
woodscrew
!/2" x #/4" x !/16"
aluminium channel

b. c.
!/8

NOTE: End caps are !/2"

thick and base is 1!/2" thick

6 • Woodsmith / No. 261

 1 2

Bead moulding is a
great way to add style
to a project
a.

Beads Without a Beading Bit

I don’t own an 1⁄8" beading bit, Next, I headed to the router table This method let me
which posed a particular challenge to form the bead, rounding over get a bead without a
when I was working on the Oak the outside edge, as you can see in specialized bit, plus the
Nightstand from issue 208. How- Photo 1 above. Then I flipped the seam between the face
ever, I did have an 1⁄8" roundover piece over once again to finish the molding and the side
bit, and with a little ingenuity I other side. It took me a number of molding is now buried
that’d be enough to do the job. passes to form the bead, slowly in the bottom of the quirk rather
I started by cutting a rabbet, siz- raising the bit with each pass until than exposed on the side of the
ing it to accept the face molding I was happy with the shape, which cabinet.
and leaving a 5⁄16" tongue to accom- you can see in Photo 2 and detail ‘a’ Bruce Vincent
modate the bead and quirk. to the right. St. Louis Missouri

Illustrations: Becky Kralicek Woodsmith.com • 7

 1

Mitered Frame Clamping

Mitered joints are one of the cleanest ways to assem-
ble a frame, but with glue’s slippery consistency,
they’re not the easiest to clamp up. However, this
simple process ensures your frame stays aligned.
Begin by placing a pair of frame pieces in a clamp,
as shown in Step 1. The idea here is that the heads
of the clamps register the parts to keep them flush.
Once the first pieces are held, apply glue to the Start at the Side. Begin by lightly clamping two same-length sides of
miters and slip the remaining frame pieces in place, the frame parallel to each other, just enough to hold them in place.
adding additional clamps along the top and bottom
(Step 2). Finally, adjust the clamps to align the miter 2
joints. Tighten the clamps down slowly to finish the
glueup, making sure the miters keep aligned.
Andrew Peterson
Sioux City, Iowa

SUBMIT A TIP TO WIN

Placing the Frame. Once the sides are held, put the remaining pieces of
the frame in place, then apply glue and lightly clamp.

GO ONLINE
If you have an original shop tip, we would
like to hear from you and consider publishing
your tip in one or more of our publications.
So jump online and go to:
SubmitWoodsmithTips.com
You’ll be able to tell us all about your tip and
upload your photos and drawings. You can
also mail your tips to “Woodsmith Tips” at the
editorial address shown on page 2. We will pay
up to $200 if we publish your tip. Final Adjustment. Lastly, adjust the clamps to align the miter joints as
needed before tightening them down.

8 • Woodsmith / No. 261

 { This handy tip isn’t limited to just the
wash bottle you see at left. Empty ketchup
and mustard bottles work just as well!

Mess-Free Finishing
To make it easier to apply a wipe- of your finish into the bottle. A apply the finish to your work-
on finish, I purchased a wash bot- squeeze bottle like this makes it piece, and nitrile gloves keep your
tle from a nearby Walmart. When easy to control the amount of fin- hands clean as well.
it comes time to finish a piece, ish, applying just enough without Alex Whitten
just dispense a small amount making a mess. A cotton rag helps Kansas City, Kansas

800-472-6950
www.woodline.com
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Illustrations: Becky Kralicek Woodsmith.com • 9

 Installing Threaded Inserts into Plywood
Installing threaded inserts into in the lower left photo and draw- wood edges as I drove the insert
the edge of plywood presents a ing. It’s a plywood cleat with a home. The photo at lower right
challenge. First, you have to make through hole glued to a hard- shows this. To install the insert, I
sure you’re drilling a straight board fence. To ensure the hole is used a bolt, a nut, and an insert
hole. Second, there’s always a at 90°, I drilled it out on the drill guide. The insert guide is just two
chance that the edges of the ply- press. Then I simply clamped this pieces of plywood with a hole
wood will split as you install the to the edge of the plywood and to fit the bolt to keep the insert
insert. Luckily, there are a few drilled the hole for my insert, straight. From there, a socket
easy solutions to these problems. using tape to gauge the depth. wrench makes it easy.
The first step is to use a drill I used a handscrew (a clamp Nathan Heemstra
guide. You can see what I mean works as well) to support the ply- Primghar, IA

a.

%/8

a.

DIGITAL WOODSM
MITH
RECEIVE FREE ETTIPS
BY EMAIL
Now you can have the bestt time-
nd
saving secrets, solutions, an
techniques sent directly to your
email inbox. Simply go to:

Woodsmith.co
om
and click on,

Woodsmith eTip
ps

You’ll receive one of our favorite

tips by email each and everry week.

10 • Woodsmith / No. 261

QUICK TIPS

Prefinishing Protection. Don Filson of Quick Lathe Tool Holder. Jack Sarcone of
Lima, OH used masking tape and some foam West Des Moines, IA likes to keep his most
backer rod to protect glue surfaces (like the used tools at the ready when turning. To
mortises and tenons you see above) when he make sure they’re holstered nearby, he found
was prefinishing parts. This gives you a better a spare milk crate and attached it to the wall
finish and strong joints. with a few screws and some big washers.

Woodsmith.com • 11
 ALL
About

NOTE: Some studs serve

special purposes that
can throw you off the
trail (see page 14). NOTE: Sorry,
but door
openings,
since they're
an opening
NOTE: Not all walls that travels
are created equal. all the way
See page 17 for to the floor,
tips on framing are not
in old homes involved
in the hunt
for studs
Cripple
stud Electrical
outlet

NOTE: Outlets are your ally NOTE: Door openings

Low-Tech
when you're on the hunt unlike windows, do
for wall framing not have cripple studs
at floor level that
are in the framing
schedule

Stud Finding Tricks

I t’s time for a face lift in your home.
It could be re-trimming the interior
with a new, more fashionable material.
Maybe you want to hang some float-
FINDING A STUD. Yes, let the dad jokes ensue,
it can be hard to find a stud if you don’t
know where to start. As you can see in
the drawing above, when trimming a
ing shelves (known as torsion boxes) or door or window the framing underneath
install built-in bookcases that need to be both accounts for the fastening needs of
anchored to the framing of the house. the cosmetic items.
All of these projects require you to But out in the field, away from doors
attach something to an object hidden in and windows it’s a different story. You
your wall — the infamous stud. A stud know there’s a forest of two-bys under
is the infantry member of the fram- the drywall, but how to pin them down?
ing of your house. Framing is Not to despair, there is a method to the
the underlying skeleton of your madness that is framing. The next page
house. Understanding the logic has some tried and true tactics for track-
ehind the placement of these ing down the notorious stud.
bones will give you the confi-
dence to hunt down the location DETECTIVE WORK
Basic Tools. A hammer, #6 finish nail, of studs without having to lay out The left drawing on the top of the next
tape measure, and a pencil are all the a lot of cash for tools such as stud page shows the base board removed and
tools you need to find wall framing. finders and density meters. using a hammer along with a #6 finish

12 • Woodsmith / No. 261 Written by: Erich Lage

START WITH SIMPLE SOLUTIONS

NOTE: First, turn

off power at
breaker panel
Top edge of
baseboard Stud will be found
on either side of
the box

Probe at least 2"

above the floor

NOTE: Probe
outside of
Tap the wall the box only
repeatedly,
moving steadily
across.The pitch
is higher across studs
NOTE: Occasionally outlets
are installed after framework
and are not attached to studs

Behind the Baseboard. You can start Sorta Sonar. The sound of a hammer Electrical Clues. All outlets are nailed
your search in the space between the tapping on the wall surface will reveal to studs. When you’ve determined
upper edge of the baseboard and the what’s behind the wall. When you’re which side the framing is on, you can
top of the bottom plate . close to a stud, the pitch is the highest. begin the search for other studs.

nail to locate studs. Drive the

nail at least 2" above the floor
so you’re not hitting the bottom
plate of the wall. Searching in
this space means you won’t have
any wall repairs to worry about.
SOUNDING THE WALL. The middle
drawing shows using of a ham-
mer to tap across the surface of
the wall. The sound is lower in
the cavity between the studs
and the pitch will rise as you
pass over the stud.
ELECTRICAL CLUES. Electrical out-
lets are attached to the framing
members of your house. To
find out which side the outlet
is attached, first, turn off the
power at the breaker panel.
Then remove the plate cover
and use an awl to probe either
side of the box. Now that you’ve
located one stud, you need to
confirm that it’s a stud that falls
within the 16" on center sched-
ule, or if it’s a stud that serves a
secondary purpose.

Illustrations: Bob Zimmerman Woodsmith.com • 13

 48 " 16"
Universal
standard
stud spacing
4' x 8'
drywall

96"

ON CENTER, ON SCHEDULE for optimal strength, and mate- behind the wall we’re looking at.
The examples of finding studs rial use. The spacing pattern is These outliers are highlighted in
on the previous page are all fine aligned to the standard sizes of red for clarity.
and good if you happen to hit a sheet good materials (4' incre- STUDS GONE WILD. The framing for
stud that’s in the 16" on center ments). The wall that you see the window is self-evident. The
standard spacing. The problem is above is a perfect example of trimmer and king studs carry
that there are studs in your wall a wall that’s uninterrupted by the load from above and pro-
that don’t conform to that pat- windows, doors, or other walls. vide a nailing surface for the
tern. More on that in a moment. window trim.
First, let’s look at the basics. OUTLIERS The devil to look out for is
SIXTEEN INCHES. Sixteen inches The drawing below shows the the corner studs you see below.
on center is the standard for framing required for a window, If you find one of these and
framing walls in the United and the supporting material for assume you’ve found the greater
States. The system is designed an adjacent wall that’s in a room stud pattern, you’ll be frustrated.

Header
Wall in
another
Not on Cripple room
standard studs
16" stud Trimmer
schedule

Not
Window King standard
opening stud 16" stud
schedule
Corner
NOTE: If the wall is studs
framed properly, for the
the cripple studs wall in
will fall in the another
16" o.c. pattern Cripple room
studs

14 • Woodsmith / No. 261

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 HANGING HEAVY STUFF
Now that you have a better
understanding of the framework
FINDING MULTIPLE STUDS
behind the drywall, let’s look
at a sound method of securely 1
attaching items that float above
the floor. Stud
If you’re attaching things to
your wall that are also supported
by the floor, such as a bookcase
or cabinet, you don’t have to be
as exacting as the process that is Use a nail to
find outside
shown here. edges of stud,
then drive
To avoid later wall repairs, nail into
you can draw a level line at the the center
shelf height and do all your stud-
finding research below this line Find Dead Center. A #6 nail is ideal for making the multiple holes
where the holes will be hidden required to find the edges of the stud. Then drive the nail into the
(Figure 3 shows this in action). center of the stud firmly enough to hold the end of the tape.
FIND THE STUD PROFILE. Figure 1
shows a nail being used to find 2
the complete 11⁄2" profile of the
stud. Now that you’ve nailed
down the center of the stud
(sorry, couldn’t resist that) you The center of the
next stud should be 16"
can start the search for the other from the one that you've
studs required to hang the shelf. located. Start with a
pencil mark there
MARK THE LAYOUT. A nail firmly
driven in the center of your stud
is what you hook the end of
your tape on (Figure 2). Simply
make a reference mark every
16" across the length of the shelf
(or cabinet).
CONFIRMATION. In the words of a
famous politician, “Trust, but The Rest of the Story. Hook the end of your tape on the nail
verify.” You need to confirm that’s embedded in the stud. Then make a light pencil mark at the
that your marks are dead cen- location of the rest of the studs you need to locate in the wall.
ter on each stud. It’s a repeat of
what you did at the start, Figure 3
3 shows this in action. And since
you’ve done all this behind the
shelf, you’ll have no wall repairs Shelf height line
on your to-do list.

ECCENTRIC FRAMING Confirm the center

“They sure don’t build them of each stud that
you'll be attaching
like they used to.” In the case your shelf or
of framing that’s a good thing. cabinet to

Scheduled framing has been

around quite a while, but came
into full force at the end of WWII.
The world of framing from Confirm the Centers. You’ll want the peace of mind that comes
before that time is often a real with knowing you’ve found the centers of each stud. You don’t
head scratcher. The most com- want a screw or bolt blowing out the side of the lumber.
monly know method of framing

16 • Woodsmith / No. 261

was called “balloon framing,”
this is where the studs ran from
the sill plate at the base to the
OLD-HOME CHALLENGES
rafters at the top. They followed
a schedule, sometimes 16" o.c., Avoid hammering Plaster key
sometimes 24" o.c. It often on lath and plaster walls,
which may loosen the
depended on the lumber supply plaster "keys" that lock
and the carpenter’s mood. the plaster to the lath
Most of the walls in the homes Lath
of that era have lath and plaster
walls. The box to the right shows
how to tackle finding studs there.
PLASTER ANATOMY. Although plas-
ter is rock hard, it does have a
weak point — keys. Keys are !/16"-!/8"drill bit
formed when the first coat of
plaster squeezes between the
lath and, when dry, is the base
that holds the other coats on the
wall. If you treat the wall The drill bit will
roughly and those keys break let you know
when you've
off, the wall surface is no longer found a stud
attached to the framing and can
fall free. If that happens, you’ll Slow & Steady. A drill with a bit is the best way to go hunting for the framework
have found all of the studs you behind a lath and plaster wall. When the resistance on the drill bit never lets up,
want, but have a whole new you’ve most likely found your first stud.
headache on your hands. W

Woodsmith.com • 17
 ROUTER
Workshop

Planing
Rough Stock
I was working on a project recently when I got
the opportunity to use some air-dried lumber
straight from a mill. I started with a couple eight-
foot-long slabs of rough-sawn hickory, and I was
excited to work with them. Air-dried lumber has
a rich color, and I find it’s far less prone to chip-
ping and tearing out than kiln-dried wood. I had
one issue though, and those familiar with rough-
sawn lumber will likely see where I’m going. I
enjoy working with rough-sawn wood, but those
planks will almost always dry unevenly, warping,
{ Grooves in the bottom of the router carriage index on the hardboard bowing, and twisting. That’s what I was working
carriage guide attached to the fixed jaw. This allows you to plane in a with, and no planer or jointer I had around was
straight line and move across the board in even increments. going to be able to deal with it.

18 • Woodsmith / No. 261 Written by: Rob Petrie

 Fixed Pegboard base
jaw #8 x #/4"
Fh woodscrew allows easy
positioning
of jaws
NOTE: Bottom-cleaning !/4"-20 x 2"
bit produces carriage
smooth, even cuts bolt
(refer to page 22)

Notches in
router carriage
ride on fixed jaw !/4"
washer

!/4"- 20 x 4" !/4"-20 Adjustable jaw

hex bolt threaded provides even
knob pressure to
#8 x 1!/2" secure workpiece
Fh woodscrew in jig
#8 x !/2"
Fh woodscrew
NOTE: Jig
!/4" accomodates panels
T-nut up to 15#/4" wide
!/4"-20
There’s a common miscon- hex nut

ception that a planer will flatten Flat, stable base

fully supports
stock. What a planer actually workpiece for
surfacing
does is reduce the thickness of
a workpiece, making one face
parallel to the other. Naturally, the jointer wasn’t going to be an with a router and a shop-made
this means that to get a flat work- option. I could’ve broken out the jig. Not only did the jig save me
piece, you’ve got to start with hand planes, but that would’ve time on this project, but it’ll be
one flat face. And with the size made for one long day. Instead, great for any rough-sawn stuff I
of workpieces I wanted to use, I chose to tackle this problem get my hands on down the road.

Illustrations: Bob Zimmerman Woodsmith.com • 19

 !/4" x 2"
Carriage TOP
Not only is this jig good for !/4" bolt (23#/4"x 47#/4"-
!/4" Pgbd.)
rough lumber, but even glued Hex
nut C Fixed jaw
up panels or end grain cutting
boards. After one face is flat, just #8 x #/4" Fh
woodscrew
flip the workpiece over and rout !/2" x 4"
Hex bolt
the board to whatever thickness
you need, or stick it in the planer
if it fits. The jig uses a router rid-
ing on a carriage. Grooves in
the bottom of the carriage allow
you to rout in even increments, #8 x 1!/2" Fh
woodscrew Adjustable
sliding along a guide and a jaw
A
couple of rails. The workpiece SIDE 14!/4" #8 x !/2" Fh
rests between the rails, below (#/4"x 1!/2"- 47#/4") woodscrew
!/4" x 2"
the router. The router is simply Carriage !/4" B
bolt T-nut
moved across the piece, and STRETCHER
because it stays at a fixed height, (#/4"x 1!/2"- 22!/4")
it removes the high spots and
flattens the surface.
!/4" Washer
This jig is a great option for !/4" END VIEW
any woodworkers without a Threaded !/4" Threaded knob
knob
planer in their shop, and it can
also be used on glued-up panels
and boards that are too wide for router reaches that far. Alterna- surface, I used 1⁄4" pegboard.
most thickness planers or joint- tively, by increasing the width of This lets me adjust the position
ers. The jig here works on pieces the rails and carriage guide, the of the jaws for narrower pieces.
up to 153⁄4" wide – but you could jig could be used to plane down Instead of drilling extra holes
go even further by extending the even thicker pieces. to attach the pegboard, I cut the
width of the base and the length pegboard so the existing holes
of the carriage. MAKING THE JIG were centered over the frame.
This jig is designed to handle The base of the jig is just a hard- JAWS. Next up is the fixed jaw.
stock up to 11⁄2" thick, and to wood frame consisting of two As you can see below, there are
plane stock to as thin as 1⁄4" using sides screwed to four stretch- three parts: a plate, a rail, and a
shims, as long as your plunge ers (drawing above). For the carriage guide.

a.

2#/8 CARRIAGE GUIDE

(15/16" x !/4"Hdbd.)
15
F NOTE: All stock
47#/4" long
1#/8
15

FIXED RAIL
15 (#/8"x 1!/8")
b. H
E
ADJUSTABLE
PLATE
(#/8"x 4") 15 2#/8
I D
ADJUSTABLE FIXED PLATE
RAIL 1#/8 (#/8"x 4") #8 x #/4" Fh
(#/4"x 1!/8") woodscrew
G
HOLD-DOWN BAR
(#/4"x 2!/8")
#8 x #/4" Fh
woodscrew

20 • Woodsmith / No. 261

 The plate is beveled (detail
‘a,’ previous page) for a better BACKING BOARD
(7!/2" x 16!/4"- !/4" Hdbd.)
grip. The rail is screwed to the L
J
plate to form an L-shaped sup-
CARRIAGE RAIL
port for the carriage. Lastly, the (#/4"x 1!/2"- 36!/2") 36!/2
carriage guide is made from
1⁄ " hardboard and glued to the
4
rail. Once the fixed jaw is made,
mount it to the base. 1!/2
The adjustable jaw has three
parts as well, but there are a
few differences at play. First, the NOTE: Center
and drill a hole to
plate on the adjustable jaw isn’t K
fit your router bit
screwed to the base. Instead, it’s ROUTER BASE
held by a hold-down bar, allow- (9"x 36!/2"- !/4" Hdbd.)

ing the adjustable jaw to move 16#/4

and press against the workpiece. 9
4!/2
The hold-down bar sits atop
the adjustable plate. Bolts pass a.
down through it and into the #8 x #/4" Fh
woodscrew
pegboard. Again, when making
the hold-down bar and adjust-
able rail, align the holes and
slots respectively with the holes rails are glued and screwed to
of the pegboard. Plastic knobs a router base made of 1⁄4" hard-
or wing nuts easily secure the board. Don’t screw into the
bar and plate to the base. section of the base that will be
To allow more minor adjust- grooved.
ments to the plate, a second set To support the
of longer bolts runs horizontally grooves, a back-
through the hold-down bar and ing board is cut to fit
a T-nut, pressing against the between the rails and
back face of the adjustable rail. glued to the top of the
Counterbores in the adjustable base. Once the glue
rail accept the heads of the bolts, dries, the indexing
keeping the jaw from sliding grooves can be made.
when pressure is applied (detail These are cut on the
‘b,’ opposite page). The pressure bottom of the base and
comes from threaded knobs and sized to fit the thickness
jam nuts threaded onto the end of the carriage guide, as
of each bolt. Once complete, shown in detail ‘a’ on
attach the adjustable jaw to the the previous page and
base as well. in the drawing above. I
CARRIAGE. The carriage shown spaced the grooves 1⁄2"
in the drawing above supports apart from each other,
the router above the workpiece but at minimum the
as it rides across the jaws. It con- space between them
sists of its own pair of rails with should be 1⁄4" less than
a base for the router. Grooves in your bit diameter to
the bottom allow you to index allow for an overlap
the router above the workpiece on each pass. After
in even increments as you plane. the grooves are in, cut
Let’s start on the rails. These a hole in the base for
pieces are cut extra long so the your chosen bit and
carriage spans both jaws no mount your router to
matter where it’s indexed. The the carriage.

Woodsmith.com • 21
 PLANING WITH A ROUTER of times, I was a little disap- is that the one pictured (and the
Now that the jig is built, it’s pointed with the results. When I one I now prefer for this jig) has
time to dive into how to use it. was done, a series of swirls had a 2" diameter. As a result, this bit
Planing a workpiece is fairly been left on the workpiece. I cut my work time in half. Now
straightforward, as most of the could’ve sanded or scraped the I can plane down a workpiece
work goes into the setup. Once surface clean, but I figured there with this jig in minutes.
that’s done, it’s all a matter of had to be a better way. USING THE JIG. No matter which
learning the routing technique The issue here was the straight bit you’ve decided to use, the
and getting to work. bit I used. Specifically, the points technique is the same, as you
THE BIT. Before we get too far, on the bottom of the cutters. can see in the box below.
I should talk about which bit After a little reading, I found First, secure the workpiece
you’ll want to use. This jig works that a bottom-cleaning bit might in the jig. Position the adjust-
well enough with a straight bit, be the answer to my problems. able jaw on the platform. This
but after usingg it the first couple
p It operates much like a straight is more of a broad-stroke posi-
bit, but it has an additional set of tioning, so locate it as close to
cutters on the bottom to “plane” the workpiece as you can now,
the surface smooth and flat. This but leave the hold-down bar a
left me with a surface that barely little loose. Now use the knobs
needed smoothed or sanded. to tighten the hex bolts, mov-
And I was almost satisfied ing the adjustable rail and plate.
with just that. Luckily, I have When the adjustable plate is firm
coworkers. I was using a 1" against the workpiece, tighten
bottom-cleaning bit when I was the hold-down bar fully to lock it
introduced to the bit you see at in place. For heavier workpieces,
the left: a spoilboard bit. This bit you’ll want to have the jig hang-
had a lot in common with my ing over the edge of your bench
bottom-cleaning bit, and as it while you get the adjustable jaw
{ Spoilboard bits are designed to leave a smooth, flat turns out, it’s typically used to assembly in place.
surface, and they make planing a wide piece quick flatten the spoil board of a CNC When you place the workpiece
work. You can find our source for this bit on page 66. machine. The big advantage here in the jig, pay attention to the

USING THE JIG

Position the Jaw. Begin by positioning Secure the Workpiece. Tighten the Flatten Away. Index the carriage and
the adjustable jaw assembly as close to hex nuts until the adjustable plate run the router across the workpiece to
the workpiece as possible. firmly girps the workpiece. plane. Then re-index and rout again.

22 • Woodsmith / No. 261

 Grooves allow you
to index router
CROSS SECTION across workpiece

Carriage

Fixed jaw

Platform
Adjustable jaw
Workbench

initial shape. Is it cupped, or is to around 1⁄8" per pass to prevent have now, this jig is an excellent
it twisted? If you’re surfacing a tearout and keep the stress on choice. Keep in mind, you can
twisted piece, you can put either my router motor to a minimum, also build the jig longer or wider
side up first, so long as you make especially with a larger bit like I than the dimensions shown
sure to remove all the high spots was using. here to accommodate larger
before flipping it. When work- THE OTHER SIDE. Once you’ve flat- pieces, and because the jaws can
ing on a cupped piece, start with tened one side, you can run be easily removed, multiple sets
the concave side facing down (as the opposite face through the of jaws can be made to handle a
shown in the art above) to pre- planer, so long as your planer wide range of thicknesses. So
vent the workpiece from rocking. is wide enough. As I mentioned whether you’re working with a
If the jig does end up rock- earlier, since you’re starting cupped panel or some rough-
ing, you may notice that one with one flat face, this will leave sawn lumber, this jig is bound to
stretch has a slightly different you with a flat, parallel-faced be handy. W
depth than the one beside it after workpiece. If you chose
you’ve routed, leaving a ridge. to stick with a standard
You may need to shim up the straight bit, you can run
areas not touching the platform
to stop if from moving.
If you keep finding a ridge,
the routed face through
afterward to remove
the router marks. The
I care about my work
check under the hold-down bar marks will be small
to make sure it locks in place. enough that it won’t
A lot of material gets removed make a difference when
this with this jig, so sawdust will planing the workpiece
eventually end up everywhere. down to thickness.
If you’re surfacing a warped Alternatively, this jig
board instead of a rough one, can be used to bring a
keeping track of progress dur- workpiece to thickness
ing your planing can be difficult in place of a planer. In
without some kind of reference. this case, all you need to
Covering the surface with pencil do once you’ve surfaced
marks is an easy way to do this, one side of your piece is
planing until they’re gone. flip it over and surface
80% of all problems in wood projects are caused
While you rout, try to apply a the opposite side.
by moisture content
ontent issues.
issues A quick and simple,
simple
steady amount of force through- IN PLACE OF A PLANER. This non-damagingg moisture meter reading can save
out, and keep the force consistent jig has become my go-to you from angrry customer calls, unnecessary repairr
between passes. Several passes for planing rough-sawn time, and a baad reputation. Call today and learn
why Wagner’s industry-leading Orion meters may
may be needed to flatten the sur- lumber. For anyone
just be the moostt impo
os importa
rtant
nt too
tooll for
for you
yourr job.
job
face. This is easy to do with most who has yet to buy a
plunge routers by simply adjust- planer, or who’s looking (877) 721-8872 | WagnerMeters.com
ing the turret on the depth stop. I to work with pieces too
like to limit the depth of the cut wide for the one they

Woodsmith.com • 23
 Top picks
for a better
Shop Life
W e always look for-
ward to buying new
tools for the shop — the bigger
they are the more exhilarating
steel sleeves (photo, below left).
The jig comes with a remov-
able fence that lets you flip the
jig. Also, there’s a bit to drill the
the process is. Here we’re going holes, and a guide pin that lets
to look at some smaller items you leap frog the jig for long runs
that may not have the thrill of a of precisely placed holes. You
new table saw but nonetheless can buy multiple jigs and daisy
make life better in the shop. chain them together as well. The
underside is molded to store the
SHELF PIN JIGS drill bit and guide pin, I like that
In the pursuit of wanting shelf feature the most. The jig (and
pin holes to be dead accurate shelf pins with generously sized
every time, the jig you see here paddle supports) can be bought
from Kreg Tools is up to the task. at Kregtool.com.
It comes in two pin sizes: 1⁄4" and
5mm. Each section has six holes RZ INDUSTRIES
that are lined with hardened Here’s a mask the we can talk
about without the heat of politics
involved. RZ Industries makes
the mask you see in the photos at
the top of the next page. As you
see, the kit consists of the mask,
Hardened steel two valves, and a filter that’s
sleeves held in place by the valves. The
package includes a carrying bag
and two filters.
OPTIONS. The masks come in a
Bit, stop
collar and variety of solid colors and some
pin Fence quickly
snaps into unique printed patterns as well.
either side If you buy one of the creative
shells, you’ll have to harvest
< The Kreg Shelf-Pin Jig is a well thought the valves and filters from your
Snap two out jig that stows all the parts you mask, or buy separate parts that
together for
more utility need in the underside of the jig. are available at their website.

24 • Woodsmith / No. 261 Written by: Erich Lage

 Replaceable

Hook & loop

charcoal
filter MAKE A STATEMENT!
straps for
easy adjustment

Breathable
mesh

{ The standard mask from RZ Industries was tested by our shop rats and
received a thumbs up for comfort. The only downside was the sizing
suggestions from the online chart. So order one size up from the chart.

Both the M1 (the original neo- The F3, according to RZ Indus-

prene mask) and the M2 nylon tries is more breathable and
masks that are featured here preferred by pros in the field
have a large strap that joins of woodworking, construction
comfortably with hook and loop. and landscaping. Also, there are
The metal nose bridge conforms valve options that will expand Bold Printed Masks. Doing the right thing by
around your unique schnozz. your masks performance. The your lungs doesn’t have to be boring. Shown
PARTS. There are two grades of masks and all the other acces- here is just a sampling of the creative shells that
filters to choose from. The F1 sories can be purchased at their RZ Industries offers to pair with your mask.
is the standard everyday filter. online store rzmask.com.

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Illustrations: Bob Zimmerman Woodsmith.com • 25

 Hardened steel
sleeves in
the common
sizes !/8”, #/16”,
!/4”, %/16”, #/8”
and !/2”

Handy center-
marks for
super accurate
hole alignment

Notched bottom for

easy centering on
!/2” and #/4” stock

{ Kreg’s drill guide block works like a champ on the edges of material. But the
hole centering marks that let you dial in a hole location on any surface are
what makes this tool worthy of a place in your apron or tool belt.

DRILL GUIDE BLOCK underside holds it in place while somewhere between boring
Whenever I needed to drill a you drill holes. The jig cradles and annoying — but it’s got to
hole in the edge of a piece of the edge of 1⁄2" or 3⁄4" lumber or be done. The Quick-Flip you see
wood I would drag out my plywood. But what sold me on below delivers you from the
trusty doweling jig. Not any the tool (photo above, left), is the drudgery of having two drills
more. The Drilling Guide from hole centering marks on all sides set up for screw installation.
Kreg has put my doweling jig in of the block. This feature lets you The bit side lets you drill
semi-retirement. align to marks and accurately counterbored holes. Then flip
This little guy has a lot going drill square holes in any surface. the insert and use the square
for it. Like most Kreg tools, head driver to set the screw
the guide holes are lined with QUICK-FLIP (Kreg pocket screws, of course).
hardened steel sleeves. And Fastening case parts together Conveniently, there’s a hex head
the GripMaxx material on the is one of those tasks that is on the end of the driver that lets

Spring-loaded brass sleeve

holds and releases
reversible bit

Combination
drill bit and
counterbore

Tempered
square-drive bit { First drill all of the counterbores to { The square bit works perfectly with
the desired depth. Then you can any Kreg pocket screws. You can
flip the bit to the driver side. plug the hole with a 3⁄8" dowel.

26 • Woodsmith / No. 261

 Easy-grip
ergonomic
handle
Angled head fits into
the tightest places

Durable
cast metal
gear housing

{ All 90° drill attachments get high marks for their snake-
like flexibility. This version from Kreg is a slimmer, well-
made version of this specialty attachment.

and stop collar that’s custom

you change or adjust the bit and You could also use this bit with made for the two settings. All
driver on the insert. any hex shanked bits. this would be pointless without
a screw that brings the lumber
90° DRIVER XL POCKET HOLE JIG together tightly. The big #12 x 4"
Admittedly, I don’t have the The pocket hole jig you see XL screw completes the task of
need for a right-angle driver very below is designed to maximize pocket hole joinery on this larger
often, so I certainly would never the bond between dimensional scale. All these tools are found at
lay out the cash for a dedicated lumber up to 31⁄2" thick. The homecenters, hardware stores,
drill with this feature. Especially guide holes are lined with hard- and online at Kregtool.com. W
since this 90° driver attachment ened steel to guide
for your drill is so much more the bit accurately. The

N
flexible — in operation and cost. tails of the jig adjust to

EW
Installing pocket screws in drill for either 11⁄2" to

!
tight places is a task that’s been 31⁄2" thick boards. Grip
made a lot easier with the 90° Maxx on the underside WOODWORKING CLAMPS
Pocket Hole Driver you see above. prevents the jig from
It comes with a square drive sliding around.
bit that locks into the driver. The jig is comprised
of two halves that can
be uncoupled for use on
smaller boards. The
stops can be removed as
well. It comes with a bit

< This beefy pocket hole

jig and the included HEAVY DUTY
hardware are designed PARALLEL JAW CLAMPS
for 4-by joinery. Pairs available in
WHEN YOU’RE 12" | 24" | 31" | 40" | 50"
READY FOR BETTEER.
OVER 1,500 LBS. OF FORCE
USER-FRIENDLY ADJUSTMENT
REVERSIBLE HEAD
DUAL-DUROMETER PIVOT HANDLE

SOLD E X CL USI V ELY AT

Pocket-hole woodpeck.com
drill bit comes standard Removable stop

Woodsmith.com • 27
 DESIGNER
Flip the seat upright to >
Project create a place to hang a
pair of pants, ready for
the next day.

Valet Chair

28 • Woodsmith / No. 261 Written by: Phil Huber; Project Design: Dillon Baker
 < Bridle joints are used to connect the chair’s framework
and add a graphic punch to the overall appearance. The
seat is hollowed for a comfortable and subtle detail.

{ Under the seat, you’ll find a leather-lined tray for stashing your everyday { Straight-grained ash in the chair’s structure plays well
carry. Leather strips on the seat rails dampen the sound of closing the seat. with the red tones of the mahogany used to make
Customize the look of the leather with a wood stain of your choice. the seat and back.

More than just a place to sit, this attractive chair pulls double duty as an
all-in-one launching pad for your day.

I ’ve been looking forward to this project for a long time.

You can be forgiven if you’ve never heard of a valet chair
before — especially if you work outside the suit and tie
world. The idea is to provide a place to stage your next day’s
Photos showing the chair draped with dressy clothing
came across as out of place in an “office-casual” world —
even more so now when a lot of folk work from anywhere.
So the idea got shot down in previous design meetings. Per-
clothes and safeguard the items you carry around in your sonally, I feel the idea works for just about anyone who could
pockets. Sort of a combination coat rack and night stand. use a little help on a busy morning.
A number of years back, I came across a (the) valet chair Persistence pays off. Dillon took up the idea and ran with
designed by Hans Wegner. It oozes Danish modern cool. it. I’m happy to present his design here.
And I really wanted to build one. In addition to its practicality, this project offers some solid
What sets Wegner’s design apart (along with our version) woodworking fun in creating joinery that’s strong and adds
is its transforming nature. At first glance you see an ordinary a great look to the completed piece. Many chairs feature
chair. However, the back is shaped to cradle a shirt, jacket, or angles for comfort and stability, and this one is no exception.
suit coat. The seat flips up to be a pants hanger. It also reveals The angles here give you an opportunity to improve your
a storage tray for essentials. skills without making your head spin. It’s time to build.

Illustrations: Becky Kralicek Woodsmith.com • 29

a.
NOTE: All parts
are made from
1!/2"-thick hardwood
SEAT RAIL
(2!/4" x 16!/4")
E
C
!/4
1!/4 UPPER RAIL
C
(1!/2" x 15#/4")
b. SIDE c.
SECTION
!/4 VIEW
#/8

B e.
A BACK LEG
FRONT LEG 1#/4 (1!/2" x 17")
(1!/2" x 16!/2") B

!/2

d. 8!/2 A

D
LOWER RAIL F
(1!/2" x 18")
STRETCHER
(2" x 16!/4")

1!/2
Strong, bold CHAIR BASE
A stable structure is a necessity The article on page 62 takes a the faces. To find this, the end
for any chair. So that’s the start- deeper dive into forming the grain of the boards should run
ing point for this project. The joints on the table saw. around 45°.
drawing above is your road map MATERIAL CONSIDERATIONS. The The seat and back are made
for the journey. The main parts design of the chair opens up from mahogany. The darker
are joined with bridle joints. a lot of freedom for choosing color and grain patterns offer a
These offer both high strength materials. This version uses ash good counterpoint to the ash.
and a visual punctuation with for the structural components. LEGS. Begin the construction by
the ends of the rails visible. The The parts are cut from boards cutting the legs to size. Take note
effect is almost like box joints. with the straightest grain on all that the back legs are mitered

DOUBLE TENONS a.

1 a. 2
#/8" Forstner
bit
Tenoning E
jig
C
Single blade
allows you to fine-
tune the tenons
for a snug fit

Mortises. Careful layout and a Forstner bit get Upright Tenons. You need to support the rails
the mortises off on a good foot. Square up the vertically in order to cut between the tenons. A
ends and smooth the sides with chisels. shop-made tenon jig does the job.

30 • Woodsmith / No. 261

on the ends to lean towards the These shallow depressions hold
front, as in detail ‘c.’ These four
parts have an open mortise cen-
strips of leather used to cushion
the hinged seat.
BOX JOINT a.
tered on each end. With joinery checked off the
RAILS. An upper and lower rail list, you can turn the stretcher 1
joins each pair of legs together. into an arch and form the curves
The back edges of these pieces on the seat rails. Then use these
are mitered to complement the pieces to bring the side assem- G
tilt of the back leg. blies into a single structure. Angled
support
In addition to the tenon
Key
formed on the end, you’ll add SEAT SUPPORT & TRAY
some mortises to accept the seat Moving along up the chair, it’s
!/2"
rails and stretcher that run cross- time to work on the a two-part dado blade
wise on the chair’s structure. system that supports the seat
Refer to the drawings on the back. You can see what’s going Tilt Support. Cut a piece of two-by material
previous page for the locations on in the drawing below. to match the angle of the upright and base.
and sizes of these mortise pairs. Box joints connect the upright Then cut the box joints as usual.
SIDE ASSEMBLY. Hit pause on the and base. Detail ‘c’ shows the
joinery for a moment to glue up slight angle cut on the ends that
the leg/rail components. Then makes the upright lean back. Install the cleats so that a couple
drill a hole on the inside face of Don’t get spooked, this angle of small hardboard panels will
each to house a threaded insert doesn’t effect cutting the box end up flush with the base, as you
for the tilting seat (detail ‘e’). joints. All you need to is add an can see in detail ‘b.’ Later on, you
DOUBLE TENONS. It’s back to the angled support to a box joint jig, can line the tray with
table saw to cut double ten- as shown in the upper right box. leather, cork, or felt. !/4
ons on the two seat rails and A slight arc and a few pilot
stretcher. Figure 2 on the previ- holes round out the other details
ous page shows the setup using you need to address. Then glue
a tenoning jig. the parts together and attach a.
These parts also have some the assembly to the set rails, as
shaping, but do that after the shown below.
joinery is cut. Otherwise you The base is the starting point G

lose the reference surfaces that for creating a tray between the UPRIGHT
(3!/2" x 17")
are necessary for accurate work. seat rails. To fill in the gaps
Detail ‘a’ shows one other item on either side, cut some thin
you need to address. A centered cleats that frame the openings.
notch on the bottom side of NOTE: Upright and TRAY PANEL J
the seat rails holds the support base are made from (5!/4" x 8!/2")
1"-thick hardwood.
system for the seat back you’ll Cleats are cut from
make later. Wrap up the work by !/2"-thick hardwood. BASE
Panels are !/4" H
(3!/2" x 16")
routing a recess in the seat rails. hardboard CLEATS
(!/2" x cut
to fit)
b. !/2 I

I
c.

#8 x 1#/4" Fh
woodscrew

Woodsmith.com • 31
 a. b.

K
BACK
(6" x 19")

NOTE: All parts

are 1"-thick
hardwood
1 square c.
= 1" K #8 x 1!/4" Fh Wood
woodscrew plug

L
SEAT
(19" x 19")

!/4" I.D.
!/4"-20 spacer
K threaded
insert
!/4"-20 x 1"
knurled
!/4 thumbscrew
#/8"-dia.
O
E s #6 x #/4" Fh
woodscrew
To find full-size
patterns for the
back, go to:

Woodsmith.com/261

Comfortable BACK & SEAT

To be fair, this isn’t the kind of chair band saw. Besides the appearance, the
that’s meant for kicking back and relax- curve along the upper edge mimics the
ing. However, I still wanted it to be shape of a hanger for gentle support of
comfortable. The remaining two parts coats and sweaters.
of the chair share that task. Due to the DISHING. But that’s not the only shaping
transforming nature of this chair, these you’ll do. The forward face of the back
PATTERN 25% END VIEW parts also have a second job. The back is curved (dished) for comfort. It’s pos-
works as a coat hanger, while the seat sible to do this with a band saw — and
offers a place to hang your pants. a lot of sanding.
COMPLIMENTARY MATERIALS. Here’s a good Another option is to use the router
place to add another material in to com- jig shown at the top of the next page.
plement the wood species used in the A router runs back and forth in a car-
base assembly. I chose mahogany for its riage across the workpiece. The carriage
warm reddish color and more uniform moves along a pair of curved guides that
grain patterns. I think it plays nicely form the hollow. Even though the back
with the straight lines of the ash. and seat are slightly dished, I did this
GLUED UP PANELS. The two parts shown with light passes to prevent the router
in the drawing above are the most vis- from bogging down or burning. The
ible pieces of the project. That’s code for result is an even curve on the workpiece.
take your time in selecting the boards The router bit leaves only minor bit
for grain and color when gluing up the marks to scrape and sand away. From
{ The seat rotates on a custom-made panels. You may be able to get the seat there, you can soften the edges and
L-shaped mechanism that consists back from a single piece. attach the back to the upright, as shown
of a bracket, a thumbscrew, and a BACK REST. The pattern at left will guide in detail ‘a’ above. I covered the screws
threaded insert installed in the leg. you for cutting the back to shape at the with mahogany plugs.

32 • Woodsmith / No. 261

 DISHING OUT THE BACK & SEAT
FENCE 1"-wide slot,
1 Palm router Secure workpiece
(!/4"x 1"- 23!/2") 21!/2" long

fitted with !/2" with double-

straight bit sided tape
BASE
(6"x 23!/2" RUNNER
- #/4"Ply.) (!/4"x 1"- 9!/2")

GUIDE
L (2"x 24"- #/4"Ply.)

PLATFORM
(21!/2"x 24"- #/4"Ply.)

Carriage for Curves. Similar to a router slab-flattening GUIDE #/8

jig, this setup is used to create a smooth curve on the
back as well as the seat.

Making the seat takes a simi-

TAKE A SEAT. Then cut the seat to shape by curving
lar route as making the back. Start with the edges, as shown in detail ‘c’ on the
the blank cut to its overall size. The previous page. The seat can take its turn
next step is to cut two shallow mortises in the dishing jig (Figure 1 above).
in the bottom face to accept the pivot- Oil-based finish brings out the color of
ing mechanism. You can see this in the the mahogany and warms up the look of
photo and details ‘b’ and ‘c’ on the pre- the ash. Then I sprayed a couple coats of
vious page. Measuring and cutting this lacquer for protection.
mortise is easier to do with the seat in The final steps are to glue in the leather
its straight, flat, and square shape. Test in the seat rails and cut another piece to
fit the hardware to make sure the pivot- line the tray (photo at right). Then this { Leather strips cushion the seat for
ing mechanism works the way you like. valet chair can take its place as a quiet sen- a softer-sounding close. Leather
(Make adjustments as necessary.) tinel of sartorial service. W also lines the tray.

Materials, Supplies & Cutting Diagram

A Front Legs (2) 11⁄2 x 11⁄2 - 161⁄2 H Base (1) 1 x 31⁄2 - 16 • (2) 5⁄8" O.D. x 1⁄4" I.D. Spacers
B Back Legs (2) 11⁄2 x 11⁄2 - 17 I Cleats (1) 1⁄ x 1⁄ - 54 rgh.
2 2 • (2) ¼"-20 Threaded Inserts
C Upper Rails (2) 11⁄2 x 11⁄2 - 153⁄4 J Tray Panels (2) 1⁄ ply. - 51⁄ x 81⁄
4 4 2 • (2) ¼"-20 x 1" Knurled Thumbscrews
D Lower Rails (2) 11⁄2 x 11⁄2 - 18 K Back (1) 1 x 6 - 19 • (4) #6 x ¾" Fh Woodscrews
E Seat Rails (2) 11⁄2 x 21⁄4 - 161⁄4 L Seat (1) 1 x 19 - 19 • (4) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews
F Stretcher (1) 11⁄2 x 2 - 161⁄4 • (3) #8 x 11⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
G Upright (1) 1 x 31⁄2 - 17 • (2) 1¼" x 1¼" Pivot Brackets • (1) 12" x 24" 12oz. Leather
1"x 4!/2" - 60" Ash (1.9 Bd. Ft.) I

G H

1!/2" x 6" - 72" Ash (4.5 Bd. Ft.)

D D C C
B B A A
E E F

1"x 6!/2" - 96" Mahogany (4.3 Bd. Ft.)

K L L L L

Woodsmith.com • 33
SHOP
Project

Router
Table
{ The cabinet houses a slide-out hopper that collects dust and chips for
This project makes the easy disposal. Three drawers on full-extension slides corral all your
case that shop machines router-related gear, keeping it dust free.

should work hard and

look great, too.

T he siren call of professional-grade gear

is tough to block out for home wood-
working. Router tables offer a good example.
In the past few years, the trend has followed
the “bigger is better” line. Even with mobile
bases, these continent-sized tools take up sig-
nificant space in a small shop.
My build-it-yourself approach has several
payoffs. In the case of this router table it’s to
nestle into a sweet spot for size. The 18" x 26"
{ European-style, soft-close hinges open wide for full access to the
top is sized for the kind of projects you’re
dust bin and the drawers. While not strictly necessary, a paint job
likely to encounter in Woodsmith.
elevates the look of the project and your shop space.
The Baltic birch plywood and plastic lami-
nate that make up the top provide high per-
formance. We used a Kreg plate and lift sys-
tem that makes bit changes and adjustments
easy and accurate.
CABINET BASE. Down below, the cabinet is a
triple threat. Enclosing the router dampens
the sound. It also contains dust and chips.
Finally, the case offers storage for all the
things that go with routing: wrenches, insert
rings, bits, bearings, set-up gauges ... the list
goes on.
GOOD LOOKS. Shop projects, whether commer-
cially made or shop-built, feature a pragmatic,
utilitarian design aesthetic (read boxy and bor-
ing). I want my workshop to exhibit the same
creativity that I like to express in my other proj- { Often overlooked, a solid fence is a critical part of a router table. A
ects. The flared legs amp up the visual appeal stout hardwood beam adjusts easily and has dust collection built in.
without clogging the construction process. The front face can be customized to suit the task at hand.

34 • Woodsmith / No. 261 Written by: Phil Huber; Project Design: Chris Fitch
Illustrations: Dirk Ver Steeg Woodsmith.com • 35
 B D
BACK
a.
D
(17"x 24!/2")
CLEAT
(1#/8"x 14!/2")
1!/4"-dia. hole
for router 6
11
cord 1!/2
!/2

b.
C

11

A
SIDE
(14!/2"x 24!/2") c.

NOTE: All parts C

are #/4" plywood SHELF
(14!/2"x 16")

Cabinet comes FIRST d.

The center of gravity on this of the far end of the dadoes on
project is the plywood case. the sides and back matches the
It supports the top and is the thickness of the mating ply-
structure the legs are attached wood pieces. So why narrow
to. The “normal” approach to dadoes and not rabbets? Dadoes
casework like this is to use thick allow the shelf and cleats to lock
plywood on the sides and a thin into position positively.
back panel. The drawing above The middle shelf is held in a
shows a more robust method. dado that’s sized to match its ROUNDOVER. Detail ‘d’ above
The sides and back are all 3⁄4" thickness exactly, as in details ‘a’ shows the final step to take care
plywood. Using a thick back and ‘b.’ The final bit of joinery is of on the case. A sprinkling of
panel allows you to cut joinery to cut a rabbet along each edge of roundovers on this project adds
into the three pieces for a stron- the back to index the case sides. a little style, as well as softens
ger connection, with the two You can see that in detail ‘d.’ the harsh edges. If you’ll be
shelves and the cleats up top. Then drill a hole for the router’s painting the case, as we did,
JOINERY. Let’s take a closer look power cord. now is a good time to start the
at the joinery. With plywood, ASSEMBLY. Take a moment here priming and painting process.
simple solutions works best. At to glue up the case. The back,
each end of the sides and back, sides, and two shelves are best LEGS & DUST CONTROL
a narrow dado holds the bot- glued up in one go. The smaller A completed case forms the
tom shelf and the cleats. This is cleats can be slipped into place basis for the remaining parts of
shown in detail ‘c.’ The location once the clamps are on. the project. Working out from

36 • Woodsmith / No. 261

 F
DUST PANEL
#8 x 1!/4" Fh (10"x 14!/4")
woodscrew FRONT VIEW
!/8"-roundover
HOPPER SIDE
(10"x 14!/4")
G

2!/2
BRACE
(2!/8"x 5#/8")
I
#/4

24!/2

H Start of
HOPPER BOTTOM curve
a. (1!/4"x 14!/4")

E
E

LEG
(6!/2"x 34!/2")
NOTE: Legs are 1!/2"-thick
E
hardwood. Dust panel is
#/4" plywood. Hopper sides E
16
and bottom are !/4" plywood.
Brace is !/2" plywood

b.

the case, you can make the legs.

Then work inward to create a
very simple dust control system. 4
LEGS WITH FLARE. Chris Fitch grew
tired of plain shop fixtures. His
form of protest in this router
table is to give the legs a fur-
niture quality. It’s a small but
effective statement.
The upper right drawing
shows how the legs are cut from A surprising pile of
DUST HOPPER. the dust and chips so you can O
the blank. Shape the long notch chips end up inside of a router dump them out. E s
that cradles the case first. I cut table cabinet. To make cleanup Installing the dust panels
the bottom of the notch at the easier, there’s a two-part sys- allows you to accurately size For full-sized
table saw. A band saw and rip tem. The first part consists of a the components for the hopper. leg and brace
patterns, go to:
fence handles the long side. pair of angled panels that are Take a moment to study detail
Stay at the band saw to cut the screwed to the inside of the case ‘b’ to pick out the various angles Woodsmith.com/261
curves. I cut one leg then used (detail ‘b’). Beveled edges on you need to cut along the hopper
that as a template to form the the panels seat against the case sides and bottom piece.
others. The outer edges of the sides and shelf. A pair of braces create a front
legs have roundovers and are On top of these rests a light- and back for the hopper and
secured to the case with screws, weight, removable hopper. The provide added strength, since
as you can see in detail ‘a.’ angled sides gather and funnel the other parts are thin plywood.

Woodsmith.com • 37
 a. b.

NOTE: Drawer
fronts, backs,
and sides are
!/2" plywood.
Bottom is
!/4" plywood

K
DRAWER SIDE
(1#/4"x 13!/2")
J

L
NOTE: All
three drawers DRAWER BOTTOM
are identical (13!/2"x 14")

K
J
DRAWER
FRONT/BACK
(1#/4"x 14!/2")
14" full-extension
drawer slides

c. d.

Corralling the GEAR

The compartment below the dust
hopper could easily be left as is.
For me, that would be a huge
problem. Unorganized space like
that is a warehouse, spacious but For simplicity, all three draw-
easily descends into chaos. The ers are the same size. And I kept
drawers shown here transform them shallow. This eliminates
that same space into a library — deep, dark recesses where the bit
organized and serene. you’re looking for likes to hide.
TONGUE & DADO. The drawer box that protruded from the front.
pieces are made from 1⁄2" ply- Instead, I opted for the subtle
DRAWER SLIDE SPACERS wood. The parts and joinery
are sized to leave a 1⁄2" gap on
cutout you can see in detail ‘c.’ I
like using a Forstner bit to create
each side for the drawer slides. the inner radii. The connecting
Speaking of, the joinery on the cuts can be taken care of at the
drawers is tongue and dado. band saw.
The details are shown in details After assembly, the drawers
‘a’ and ‘b’ above. can be installed using full-exten-
A dado is cut on the fronts and sion slides. These come in two
backs. An interlocking tongue is parts: a cabinet part and a drawer
then formed to fit on the sides. part. The drawing above shows
2!/4" hardboard spacer This is easily done at the table the drawers evenly spaced in
ensures slides are saw. Check out detail ‘d’ for the their compartment. But that’s
spaced consistently
location of the groove cut in all only one option. You can create
the parts that holds the bottom. any spacing to suit the items you
Consistency. One drawer is flush with the INTEGRATED PULL. The drawers are plan on stashing inside.
bottom of the case. Space the others off it. covered by doors we’ll get to The key to successful installa-
in a bit. So I didn’t want pulls tion is making sure each side is

38 • Woodsmith / No. 261

level. The box on the bottom of 155° Concealed a.
the previous page highlights a hinges
trusted solution.
FRONT
THE EASIEST DOORS VIEW
5
On a lot of projects, the doors can
be mini-projects in themselves. 3#/4" pull #/32
But that doesn’t have to always with
screws
be the case. Here, plain plywood
slabs do the job nicely and fit
in well with the overall design
motif of the project. 3#/4
Each door is cut a hair shorter M
than the overall height of the
cabinet. This creates clearance so
the door won’t bind against the M

top. Width-wise, size the doors DOOR

(8!%/32"x 24&/16")
for a small gap in the middle and
the doors flush with the edges
of the case. Check out details ‘b’
NOTE: Doors are
and ‘c’ at right. #/4" plywood
DETAILS. Now for some finer
details. The outside edge of each
door gets a roundover to match
the one at the back of the case.
Along the inside edge, cut out
a shallow mortise for a pair of
trim edge pulls (detail ‘a’).
CONCEALED HINGES. The doors b.
hang on concealed hinges that c.
open wide enough to allow the
drawer to open without scrap-
ing. Detail ‘b’ at right and the
box below show you what you
need to know. You’ll drill holes
in the doors for the hinge cup
and attach the case side of the
hinge with screws.

TWO-PART EUROPEAN HINGES

1 BACK VIEW
2 a.

3!#/16 2!/4 Attach door side

of hinge with screws
&/8

35mm-dia. hole,
!%/32"-deep Top of
door

Cup Holes. The door portion of the hinge fits into Easy Installation. Two screws secure the hinge portion. After
35mm holes drilled in the doors. installing the cabinet part, the two pieces snap together.

Woodsmith.com • 39
 2!/4
#/4"-rad. 1"-rad.

NOTE: Top is made Plastic laminate 6!/4

up of two layers
of #/4" plywood 5!/8

2
3&/8

N
Slots are
TOP !/2" wide
(18"x 26") TOP VIEW

a. b.

Where the MAGIC HAPPENS

All that’s come before are open- above. I used Baltic birch ply- through slot and a stepped por-
ing acts. At last we get to the wood here, as it’s more reliably tion on the bottom face (detail
main event — the top. The flat than other sheet materials ‘b’). A plunge router with an
requirements here are short: big as well as offering the strength edge guide is the approach I
enough, flat, durable. required for a worksurface. used to make these.
Let’s check some of these items After rounding the corners, INSERT PLATE KIT. It’s time to add
off the list. As I mentioned at the I capped the top with a piece the router part of this router
outset, a lot of router tables are of plastic laminate (pick your table. I used a kit from Kreg
too big (personal preference). favorite color). Laminate is hard- Tool that includes an insert
This one is sized to suit most wearing and offers a smooth, plate, router lift, and levelers,
project parts and get along well low-friction surface for moving as shown in the drawing and
with the other tools in my shop. a workpiece around. photo below.
DOUBLE-STRENGTH. The top is glued FENCE SLOTS. Cut a slot along each All you need to do is make
up from two layers of plywood end of the top, as shown in the an opening in the table top that
and cut to the “Top View” drawing. These matches the size of the insert
size shown in slots accept the fence we’ll come plate. An insert plate leveler is
the drawing to shortly. There’s a narrow attached in each corner (detail
‘a’ below). It has two posts to
help level the insert plate (which
should be pretty obvious based
on the name.) But it also has a
threaded insert that allows you
Kreg insert, lift, and
levelers work together to secure the plate to the leveler.
to keep the insert
Leveler flush with the table
a.

{ Insert plate levelers offer

fine-tuning and a way to
secure the plate to the
table top.

40 • Woodsmith / No. 261

 NOTE: Fence back and dust DUST PORT
(3"x 4") a.
port are made from
This cuts down on vibration and 1!/2"-thick hardwood. P
Face and blocks
noise that can occur on other are #/4"-thick hardwood
insert plate setups.
Completing this work means FENCE BACK
you can attach the top to the case. (3"x 25") #/8"-dia.
O
Drive three screws up through %/16"-dia.
the cleats into the top. Check out
details ‘a’ and ‘b’ on the previous
page for the overhang numbers.
7
2 !/4"-20
A STEP UP FENCE round knob
and washer
For years, Steve Johnson, one !/4"-20 x 3"
carriage bolt
of the shop craftsmen at Wood- #/8"-16
smith used a straight piece of round knob
and washer
hardwood with a bit cutout as Q
his fence. The fence on this table FENCE FACE
(3!/4"x 18")
riffs on that uncomplicated con- #/8"-dia.
cept with a few convenience c.
upgrades. The back is a thick b.
CLAMP BLOCK
block with stepped ends for the (1!/4"x 2")
adjustment knobs. Do you notice R

the roundover theme in the main

drawing and detail ‘b?’ On the
back is another thick block with
a hole to connect your shop vac-
uum (detail ‘c’).
#/8"-16 x 4!/2"
An interchangeable face is Carriage bolt
attached to the front. This lets
you create a fence with custom
openings to suit various bits. Finally, cut clamp blocks to Once this table takes its place
What about a fence with slid- anchor a pair of carriage bolts. in your shop, you’ll find a valu-
ing faces? I’m not a fan. The faces These slide in the slots on the bot- able and versatile member of the
too often end up misaligned, tom face of the table, as shown in team. And one that’s easy on the
resulting in poor cuts. detail ‘b,’ to adjust the fence. eyes, too. W

Materials, Supplies & Cutting Diagram

A Sides (2) 3⁄ ply. - 141⁄ x 241⁄
4 2 2 L Drawer Bottoms (3) 1⁄4 ply. - 131⁄2 x 14 • (2) 33⁄4" Edge Pulls w/Screws
B Back (1) 3⁄ ply. - 17 x 241⁄ M Doors (2) 3⁄ ply. - 815⁄ x 247⁄ • (2 pr.) 155° Full Overlay Hinges
4 2 4 32 16
C Shelves (2) 3⁄ ply. - 141⁄ x 16 N Tops (2) 3⁄ ply. - 18 x 26 • (1) Router Insert Plate w/Levelers
4 2 4
D Cleats (2) 3⁄ ply. - 13⁄ x 141⁄ O Fence Back (1) 11⁄2 x 3 - 25 • (1) Router Lift
4 8 2
E Legs (4) 1 1 1
1 ⁄2 x 6 ⁄2 - 34 ⁄2 P Dust Port (1) 11⁄2 x 3 - 4 • (2) 3⁄8"-16 x 41⁄2" Carriage Bolts
F Dust Panels (2) 3 ⁄4 ply. - 10 x 141⁄4 Q Fence Face (1) 3⁄ x 31⁄ - 18
4 4 • (2) 3⁄8" Flat Washers
G Hopper Sides (2) 1⁄ ply. - 10 x 141⁄
4 4 R Clamp Blocks (2) 3 1
⁄4 x 1 ⁄4 - 2 • (2) 3⁄8"-16 Steel Knurled Knobs
H Hopper Bottom (1) 1 1 1
⁄4 ply. - 1 ⁄4 x 14 ⁄4 • (2) 1⁄4"-20 x 3" Carriage Bolts
I Braces (2) 1⁄ ply. - 21⁄ x 53⁄
2 8 8 • (12) #8 x 11⁄4" Fh Woodscrews • (2) 1⁄4" Flat Washers
J 1 3
Drawer Frts./Backs (6) ⁄2 ply. - 1 ⁄4 x 14 ⁄2 1 • (14) #8 x 11⁄2" Fh Woodscrews • (2) 1⁄4"-20 Steel Knurled Knobs
K Drawer Sides (6) 1⁄ ply. - 13⁄ x 131⁄ • (3 pr.) 14" Full-Extension Slides w/Screws
2 4 2

1!/2"x 3!/2"- 36" Hard Maple (1.3 Bd. Ft.) #/4"x 3!/2"- 24" Hard Maple (0.6 Bd. Ft.)
R
O P Q R
ALSO NEEDED: One 48" x 96"
sheet of #/4" Baltic birch plywood.
1#/4"x 7"- 72" Hard Maple (2 boards @ 7 Bd. Ft. each) One 48" x 48" sheet of !/2"
Baltic birch plywood. One 48" x 48"
E E sheet of !/4" birch plywood

Woodsmith.com • 41
HEIRLOOM
Project

42 • Woodsmith / No. 261 Written by: Erich Lage; Project Design: Dillon Baker
 Bahut
Cabinet
Top to bottom, front to back,
{ Dovetail joinery that joins the top to the sides provides
visual relief and interesting punctuation to the large and side to side, this cabinet
panels. The pivot hinges are a strong but discrete way to
operate the doors.
is a beauty. It’s a workout in
the shop — but the results will
} Inside the cabinet you’ll find ample room to store whatever
particulars could be needed in the room the cabinet occupies. provide a lifetime of joy.
The solid walnut drawers add abundant storage options.

I f you’ve never heard of George Nakashima or

built any of his objects (he doesn’t call them
projects) you’re in for a two-fisted, heavy-duty,
deceptively simple, ruggedly delicate woodwork-
ing journey. All the paradoxes described here are
fitting when it comes to the designs and life work of
Mr. Nakashima. He was passionate about building,
beauty, woodworking, and trees.
He treated trees as sacred objects, and many of
his thoughts on trees were captured in the book
he released in 1983 “The Soul of a Tree.” Here’s a
quote from his website that gives you a feel for the
reverence that he has for trees. “In Japanese, kodama,
the ‘spirit of a tree,’ refers to a feeling of kinship with the
heart of a tree. It is our deepest respect for the tree...that
we may offer the tree a second life.”
Now that you’re aware of the broader back-
ground of this woodworker, let’s hone in on Dil-
lon Baker’s interpretation of the Bahut cabinet. As
you see in the pictures here, the cabinet is mainly
made of thick walnut. Not only is walnut used in
the drawer fronts, but the sides and back of the
drawers also. The back of the cabinet is good look-
ing as well; it’s ship-lapped walnut slats — giv-
ing you the option of using the cabinet as a room
divider if you so choose. The only plywood here is
used for the drawer bottoms and as substrate for
the walnut burl veneered door panels. Clearly it’s
time to roll up your sleeves and head to the shop.

< A large burl block (like this one) was a signature pull on Mr.
Nakashima’s Bahut cabinets. Dillon found this one on eBay.
Mount it to the left door for an authentic look.

Illustrations: Dirk Ver Steeg Woodsmith.com • 43

 TOP
(18"x 43") A
a.
VERTICAL DIVIDER
NOTE: All parts are made (16"x 27!/2")
from 1"-thick hardwood D
#/8"-dia. 11#/8
hole 11#/8
&/16"deep
3
Shelf pin
1!/2 sleeve
SIDE 2
(18"x 51") b.
B 2
1!/2 HORIZONTAL DIVIDER
(16!/2"x 41#/4") B
E
NOTE: Partitions
provide clearance
between drawers
and doors

22(/16
NOTE:
Tenons are DRAWER
flush on the PARTITION
back edges (15!/4"x 21#/4")
of partitions F
#/8" and dividers
dowel NOTE: Tongues
on partitions
F C and dividers are
BOTTOM flush on back
(18"x 41") edge
1 5!/4
d.

#/4
c.
BACK
!/2 VIEW
#8 x 1!/2" Fh
woodscrew

#/4

Making a strong CASE !/2

!/2
When I suggested rolling up
your sleeves, I meant it. This
cabinet is a beast. All of the parts The drawing at the top of the dividers to size, along with
you see here are made of glued- next page shows the layout of the drawer partitions. Fig-
up 1" thick material. the pins on the top. The pins ure 1 on the next page shows
Sorting, selecting, and priori- are used to locate the tails on how to make the tongues on
tizing the material for the case is
ti the side. You can minimize saw- these pieces. Now you can cut
O one of the reasons Mr. Nakashi-
o ing vibration in these big panels the stopped dadoes (detail ‘b’
E s ma’s objects are so highly prized.
m with good clamping strategies above) in the partitions and
You should follow suit and pick
Y at the bench. dividers, Figure 2 sheds some
For more on
how to make the best material for the top, Test-fitting the dovetails insight on this. Figure 3 shows
perfect hand cut sides, and horizontal divider. ensures good-looking joinery, how to do the stopped dadoes
dovetails, go to:
When all of the panels have been and also lets you get an exact in the sides and top. Take a
Woodsmith.com/261 glued up, cleaned, and trimmed measurement for the length of moment and drill the holes for
to size, you can focus on the first the bottom. Then you can pull the shelf pin sleeves that you see
of your joinery tasks — some big the pieces apart and drill the in the main drawing above.
hand cut dovetails. counterbores and pilot holes in Cut the mortises in the top
HAND CUT DOVETAILS. There’s a the sides (detail ‘a’). (detail ‘d’ above) and bottom for
primer for making hand-cut INTERNAL PARTS. Start off by cut- the pivot hinges. Figure 4 shows
dovetails at Woodsmith.com/261. ting the vertical and horizontal the bottom panel’s mortise.

44 • Woodsmith / No. 261

 ASSEMBLE THE CASE.Slow set glue
and extra hands that know what
7° SIDE VIEW 1!/4 !/2
they’re doing will help make
the case go together smoothly. A
Assemble the top, sides, horizontal
divider, and bottom first. When the
clamps are stowed, rout a rabbet 1
along the rear edge of the cabinet
for the back that you’ll install later. %/8 1 #/4 FRONT VIEW B

Now you can apply glue and

slide the vertical divider and
drawer partitions in place.

CASE JOINERY DETAILS

1 3
Straight-
edge
jig
D E F
Aux.
fence

Dado blade
a. b.
#/8" B
straight bit
Tongues First. The tongues on the dividers and partitions are made at the table saw. Cut
the shoulders with the boards supported by a miter gauge and auxiliary fence (detail ‘b’).
a.
2 a. b.

Bit edge

#/8" straight bit

Dadoes for Dividers. A jig
Stopped Dadoes. The dadoes for the partitions in the bottom and horizontal divider are guides your router when making
stopped dadoes. To dial in your plunge cut, mark the leading edge of the bit on the fence. the dadoes for dividers.

4 5 a.

Waste
!/8
!/8"
C straight
bit
!/16

Trace the Hinge. Place the hinge on the bottom Remove the Waste. A router and a small straight bit removes most of
and trace its outline with a marking knife or pencil. the waste. A chisel squares the corners and completes the job.

Woodsmith.com • 45
 #8 x 1" a.
Fh woodscrew L
L L
L L

G H
Shelf SHELF END
pin (3"x 15#/4")

b.
H

G
SHELF
(15#/4"x 15")

I
FRAMING c.
STRIP
(1!/2"x 21")
#8 x 1#/4"
Fh woodscrew

L
PEDESTAL BRIDGE
BACK SLAT (2"x 41")
(6!#/32"x 49#/4") K

d.
NOTE: Shelves, shelf
ends, and framing
strips are made from
#/4"-thick hardwood.
Pedestal is made from
K
1!/4"-thick hardwood.
Back slats are
made from
!/2"-thick hardwood J
PEDESTAL BASE
J (4!/2"x 17")

e.
at the table saw. When clamping
Next, the BACK, THE up the shelves, apply glue only
in the center of the grooves to
DRAWERS, & MORE allow for wood movement.
FRAMING STRIPS. The framing
Building the case for this cabinet strips you see in detail ‘b’ are
was definitely a workout. You’ll glued to the edges of the drawer
be glad to know that all the partitions. They cover the gap
heavy lifting you just finished between the sides and drawer
required the most sweat equity partitions. Now that you’ve front to back and are centered
— other than moving the cabi- had some time to recoup doing on the cabinet. Detail ‘e’ lays out
net to its final home, the heavy some light work, let’s step back the notches in the base.
lifting is done. Some lighter fare into the heavy material for a Meanwhile the bridge parts
is next, starting with the shelves. moment and focus what the travel side to side and are
SHELVES. The two shelves you cabinet sits on — the pedestal. trapped between the side panels.
see in the main drawing above THE PEDESTAL. The pedestal of the All four pieces are notched (at
and detail ‘c’ are panels with cabinet scales nicely to the rest the table saw) so they’ll set flush
breadboard ends. After cut- of the object. It lifts the cabinet to each other. Detail ‘d’ shows
ting the centered tongues in the off the ground for easy cleaning the notch location and how the
shelves, cut the mating grooves yet provides plenty of support. bridge pieces cantilever beyond
in the ends. Both steps are done The wider base parts run from the base pieces. Once you’ve

46 • Woodsmith / No. 261

a.
c. d.

b.
!/4" x 1" dowel Q
DRAWER GUIDE #8 x #/4" Fh
(!/2"x 15#/4") woodscrew

N
DRAWER BACK
(7"x 37#/8")
O
DRAWER BOTTOM
(15!/4"x 37#/8")

1!/2

P NOTE: Sides are made from M

DRAWER FRONT #/4"-thick hardwood. The DRAWER SIDE
10 back and front are made from
(7"x 38#/8") (7"x 15#/4")
%/8"-thick hardwood. The guides
are !#/32"-thick hardwood. The
bottom is !/4" plywood

screwed the bridges to the bases, e. f.

screw the assembly to the bottom
of the cabinet (detail ‘d’).
THE BACK. The back slats have
a shiplap joint that allows the
boards to expand and contract.
First cut double rabbets in all the
pieces but the ends (detail ‘a’ on
the previous page). Screw them
in the center to the case and hor-
izontal divider. The drawers are setup and cut the grooves in the use a chamfer bit to flare out the
next on the agenda. sides for the guides (detail ‘b’). opening (detail ‘c’).
Then change the blade and make Now you can glue up the
DRAWERS all the grooves in the drawer drawer. When the clamps come
It won’t come as a shock to you, parts for the plywood bottoms. off, drill the holes for the dow-
but as you see above these draw- The last dado setup is used to els that pin the sides to the back
ers are generously sized. Note make the initial cut for the lock- (details ‘d’ and ‘f’). To add a lit-
that the sides are thicker than ing rabbet on the drawer front tle more strength to the drawer
the front and back of the drawer. that you see in detail ‘e.’ Then they’re held in place with epoxy.
This adds some rigidity to these trim the narrow lip on the back You can sand the dowels flush
large drawers. to make a tongue for the dado after the epoxy cures.
Start by milling all the pieces to you’ll cut next in the side. INSTALL THE DRAWERS. Cut the
size, then install your dado blade DRAWER PULLS. There are no drawer guides to length and
in the table saw. I started by mak- drawer pulls. As shown in the drill holes for the mounting
ing the rabbets in the back of the main drawing above, there are screws. Detail ‘a’ shows their
drawer sides (detail ‘f’). Follow two finger holes in the front. location in the cabinet. Now it’s
that up with changing the dado After you’ve drilled the holes, time to make some doors.

Woodsmith.com • 47
 a.

Walnut burl S
veneer
(10 mil paper 10
backed)
applied to front
and back of panel
3&/8

c.
b. V
HANDLE
(2%/16"x 9")
T
HINGE
STILE
(4"x 41%/8")

U
CENTER
STILE
(2"x 41%/8")

NOTE: Rails and d.

stiles are made Ball catch
from #/4"-thick
hardwood.
Handle is 1!/2"-
thick hardwood. 2" pivot
Door panel is S hinge
#/4" plywood
R
DOOR PANEL
(15!#/32"x 41%/8") S
RAIL
NOTE: Catches centered (4"x 20!#/32")
Ball
on width of rails catch

Finish with a fine pair of DOORS

You’re at the final chapter of the e. f.
Bahut cabinet, all that’s left to do
is make and hang these good
looking doors. As you see in the
drawing above, the panels are
made of Baltic birch plywood
with a walnut veneer. Let’s start
by making these panels.
DOOR PANELS. First, cut to size
O the Baltic birch panels. To apply
E s the burl veneer (10 mil paper stiles (detail ‘a’). This creates the After you’ve cut the centered
ba
backed) our shop craftsman vertical shadow line between grooves in the rails and stiles at
For more on Steve Johnson used a vacuum the panel and the stiles that I the table saw, you can glue up
making an
alternative press. He said it could be done mentioned in the beginning. the two doors.
burl handle,
go to: with contact cement instead Before assembly, you’ll need to FITTING THE DOORS. Detail ‘a’ shows
Woodsmith.com/261 since it’s paper backed. Either paint the reveal of the vertical the ideal reveal that you want
way, afterwards you’ll need to tongues black. Now it’s time to to create between the doors and
cut a centered tongue on all the make the rails and stiles. the cabinet. Use thin shims to
edges of the panels. RAILS & STILES. Notice that the test fit the doors in the opening
TONGUES. Notice in detail ‘c’ that stiles are trapped between the and plane the edges as needed.
the tongues for the rails are nar- rails. To me, this detail makes Detail ‘b’ shows the mortises
rower than the tongues for the the doors appear a little wider. in the top and bottom rails for

48 • Woodsmith / No. 261

the pivot hinges. Detail ‘b’ also
shows the trick of drilling the
pilot holes and installing the
HINGE MOUNTING
screws temporarily. This will
make following the directions in 1 2 NOTE: Slide a.
Figure 2 in the box to the right door over
both pivot
much easier. hinge
There are a couple of things leaves
left to do. Install the ball catches
(detail ‘f’). Make the handle that NOTE: Case
screws to the door on the left side can be laying
on back to
of the cabinet (detail ‘d’ and ‘e’). 2" pivot aid in
Now you can apply the fin- hinge assembly
ish. Seal-A-Cell and two coats of
lacquer is all you need to protect The Hinge. Screw the hinges Attach the Doors. With the help of a friend, slide
this beautiful object — you’ll into the mortises on the case. the doors on to the hinges and screw them in place.
want to let that walnut glow. W

Materials, Supplies & Cutting Diagram

A Top (1) 1 x 18 - 43 L Back Slats (7) 1⁄ x 613⁄ - 493⁄ • (10) #8 x 11⁄2” Fh Woodscrews
2 32 4
B Sides (2) 1 x 18 - 51 M Drawer Sides (6) 3 3
⁄4 x 7 - 15 ⁄4 • (1) 3⁄8” x 8” Walnut Dowel
C Bottom (1) 1 x 18 - 41 N Drawer Backs (3) 5 ⁄8 x 7 - 373⁄8 • (24) Shelf Pin Sleeves
D Vertical Divider (1) 1 x 16 - 271⁄2 O Drawer Bottoms (3) 1⁄4 ply. - 151⁄4 x 373⁄8 • (8) Shelf Pins
E Horzontal Divider (1) 1 x 161⁄2 - 413⁄4 P Drawer Fronts (3) 5⁄ x 7 - 383⁄
8 8 • (10) #8 x 13⁄4” Fh Woodscrews
F Drawer Partitions (2) 1 x 151⁄4 - 213⁄4 Q Drawer Guides (6) 13 1 3
⁄32 x ⁄2 - 15 ⁄4 • (18) #8 x 3⁄4” Fh Woodscrews
G Shelves (2) 3⁄ x 153⁄ - 15
4 4 R Door Panels (2) ⁄4 ply. -1513⁄32 x 415⁄8
3 • (21) #8 x 1” Fh Woodscrews
H Shelf Ends (4) 3⁄ x 3 - 153⁄
4 4 S Rails (4) 3⁄ x 4 - 2013⁄
4 32 • (1) 1⁄4” x 18” Walnut Dowel
I Framing Strips (2) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 21 T Hinge Stiles (2) 3⁄ x 4 - 415⁄ • (4) 2” Pivot Hinges
4 4 4 8
J Pedestal Base (2) 11⁄4 x 41⁄2 - 17 U Center Stiles (2) 3⁄ x 2 - 415⁄
4 8 • (4) 11⁄32” dia. Ball Catch
K Pedestal Bridge (2) 11⁄4 x 2 - 41 V Handle (1) 1 5
1 ⁄2 x 2 ⁄16 - 9
1" x 6"- 114" Walnut (Three boards @ 5.9 Bd. Ft. each )
D E F F

#/4"x 7!/4"- 108" Walnut (Three Boards @ 5.4 Bd. Ft. Each)

M M N P

#/4"x 10"- 102" Walnut (Two Boards @ 7.1 Bd. Ft. Each)
S S Q
G G G
I
H H
T U

1" x 7"- 96" Walnut (Three boards @ 5.8 Bd. Ft. each )
A B

1" x 7"- 96" Walnut (Three boards @ 5.8 Bd. Ft. each )

C B

1!/4" x 9!/2"- 60" Walnut (5.9 Bd. Ft.)

K ALSO NEEDED: One 48"x 48" Sheet of !/4"
J K Walnut Plywood, One 48"x 48" Sheet
of #/4" Baltic birch Plywood, One Sheet
J of 48"x 96" Walnut burl veneer
(10 mil paper backed)
!/2"x 7"- 54" Walnut (Seven Boards @ 2.6 Sq. Ft. Each) 1!/2" x 2%/16"- 9" Maple block
L V

Woodsmith.com • 49
 DESIGNER
Project

50 • Woodsmith / No. 261 Written by: Rob Petrie; Project Design: John Doyle
BathroomVanity
This vanity combines Mission sensibility with a cheerful,
modern style to brighten up any bathroom and expand an
otherwise small space.

I n my opinion, a vanity is the centerpiece of a

bathroom. Of course, this could just be me—
wood will always draw my eye more than tile
or porcelain. Regardless, a bathroom vanity is a
a great addition to any lavatory of your choice,
from an expansive washroom to a tucked-away
water closet.
True to its inspiration, you’ll find this project full
great chance to add style and color to an often of sturdy joints. Mortise and tenons provide most
less-than-glamorous room. of the structure here, with a few grooves to hold
The vanity here clearly takes inspiration from the in those side panels of course. Of particular note,
classic Mission aesthetic: thick legs, strong vertical you’ll find a couple instances of twin tenons here
and horizontal lines, and paneled sides for a simple as well. This is an easy method of adding strength
sense of depth. Yet the sturdy design is offset by the to a joint when you think a little extra brawn might
bright, carefree color and the open, airy design of be needed (like when it’ll be holding up a porcelain
the bottom shelf. sink basin). A finish of milk paint and lacquer adds
This project was designed with smaller bath- a fresh look and protects the vanity from moisture,
rooms in mind, to light up the room and provide even through the most indulgent of showers. All in
the feeling of a larger vanity without taking up all, this simple-yet-sturdy piece is a great candidate
all the space. That said, this colorful piece can be for your next project.

< This U-shaped drawer

offers significant
storage while still
accommadating space
for plumbing within. The
false drawer front above
balances the vanity
and conceals the sink’s
inner workings. A slatted
shelf below gives a light
feeling to the piece as a
whole.

Illustrations: Bob Zimmerman Woodsmith.com • 51

 a. b. c.

d. REAR RIGHT LEG

A
Left face Front face FRONT
LEFT LEG
A FRONT
RIGHT
REAR LEG
LEFT (2!/4"x 33")
8!/2 LEG
18#/8 A
A
#/4

e. NOTE: Each
grooved/mortised
leg face is a mirror
image of the
opposite leg face
1!/2

REAR
1!/2 RIGHT
LEG
A
2#/4 NOTE: The legs

A Strong Set of LEGS

14%/8 are 2!/4"-thick
hardwood, glued #/8
up from three
#/4"-thick hardwood
pieces
The legs are the foundation of !/2
this vanity, so they make an
excellent place to start. First, lay
out the mortises and stopped
grooves on each leg according
to the drawings above. With SIDE PANELS
those in place, cut the grooves as The side panels fit between
you see in the box below. Once the legs and rails (drawings on tenons. The upper and middle
you’ve taken care of the grooves, opposite page). After gluing up stretchers have a double tenon
head back to the drill press and and sizing the panels, cut a rab- on each end, and the tenons of
bore out most of the waste for bet around the back face of each. the top stretchers and rails are
the mortises. Use a chisel to fin- STRETCHERS & RAILS. Cut the stretch- flush with the top faces (details
ish the mortises, squaring them ers and rails to size, then head ‘a,’ ‘d,’ and ‘e,’ opposite page).
up and paring the sides smooth. to the table saw to make the Once the tenons are in place, cut
the grooves you see in details ‘a’
and ‘b’ on the next page.
MAKING STOPPED GROOVES The nailer board gives you a
place to screw the vanity into
your wall. It’ll be pocket screwed
1 #/8"-deep
groove 2 FRONT SECTION VIEW Fence
in place during assembly, but set
!/2" it aside for now.
Forstner !/2" FRAME ASSEMBLY. It’s time to bring
bit straight Waste
bit these pieces together. Start by
making two side assemblies.
Waste
Use the rails to join the legs,
Drill the Ends. Lay out the grooves on Rout the Groove. Lower the piece over gluing them up but leaving the
the leg pieces. Drill out the end of each the spinning bit and cut to the other side panels unglued within.
groove with a Forstner bit. end, then square with a chisel. Once dry, the two side assem-
blies can be joined using the

52 • Woodsmith / No. 261

 NOTE: Stretchers and NAILER
a. b. rails are made from (3"x 25!/2")
1"-thick hardwood. E
Panels and nailer are UPPER
#/4"-thick hardwood. RAIL
(2"x 18#/8")
SIDE PANEL
(15!/4"x 17#/4") C
1 UPPER STRETCHER
(2"x 26#/4") B
D

c. d. MIDDLE STRETCHER MIDDLE

(2"x 26#/4") RAIL
D (2"x 18#/8")
D
C
LOWER
STRETCHER
(2"x 26#/4")
D

LOWER
e. RAIL
f. (2"x 18#/8")
C
D

g.
SIDE VIEW

stretchers. After the whole The drawer is made with Mount the cleats for the
assembly has been glued up, the locking rabbet joints. As in the false front as in detail ‘a’ TOP VIEW
nailer can be pocket screwed into drawing below, cut rabbets in below, then screw on the
the rear legs, flush to their tops. the back, middle back, and front false front. Screw the other
FALSE FRONT & DRAWER. Now for the pieces. Next, cut mating dadoes false front to the drawer. Attach
false front and drawer. The false in the sides and insides. Finally, the supports for the drawer
front is screwed on with cleats, cut grooves into the inner face of guides to the frame with pocket
while the drawer will be held each drawer piece to accept the screws. Mount the slides, then
in by full-extension slides (and plywood drawer bottom, then install the drawer. Lastly, attach
each requires 1⁄2" of clearance). glue up the drawer assembly. two handles to each front.

FALSE FRONT CLEAT DRAWER SLIDE

(#/4"x 25!/2") SUPPORT a. b.
F (3"x 17!/8")
I FALSE FRONT
SIDE CLEAT
(#/4"x 5&/8") FALSE FRONT
G (7!/4"x 25#/8")

DRAWER
MIDDLE BACK
L
DRAWER INSIDE (6"x 5!/2")
(6"x 8!/2") N
DRAWER
BACK DRAWER BOTTOM
(6"x 9!/4") (15!/2"x 24") c.
M L J

DRAWER
SIDE NOTE: False fronts,
(6"x 16") O slide supports, and false front
K DRAWER cleats made from #/4"-thick hardwood.
FRONT All drawer sides are !/2"-thick hardwood.
(6"x 24") Drawer bottom is !/4" plywood.

Woodsmith.com • 53
 FRONT/BACK SLAT CLEAT
SIDE SLAT CLEAT
a. (#/4"x 17!/8")
(#/4"x 25!/2")
SLAT Q
(3#/8"x 21#/8") P
R

END SLAT
(3&/16"x 21#/8")
S

NOTE:
Slats and
cleats made
b. from #/4"-thick
hardwood

c.

An Open & AIRY SHELF

Below the drawer lies a shelf. to start off with so they can be
Rather than one solid panel cut to fit exactly later on. Start
however, this shelf is a series of with the middle two, then work
slats. There are eight in total: six out toward the ends, driving the
middle slats and two end slats, screws up from below and keep-
all screwed into hidden cleats. ing consistent spacing (detail ‘c’).
Begin by screwing the cleats As shown in detail ‘b,’ the end
in place behind the lower rails slats are notched to fit the legs. FRAME & SINK
and stretchers, as in the draw- Fit the workpieces against the Much like you’ve seen in this
ing above. Now mark out the legs to mark these cuts. Then project so far, mortise and tenons
centerline on the front and back rip both end slats to final width. do the heavy lifting in the frame.
cleats to give you a starting place Either use the dimensions shown After sizing the frame pieces, cut
for screwing on the slats. in detail ‘b’ above, or set your tenons into the ends of the two
The end slats are wider than slats in place and mark where sides, as in detail ‘b’ below. For
the middle ones, and I recom- they’ll sit flush with the rails. the front and back pieces, make
mend cutting them extra wide Lastly, screw them in place. the mortises just as you did on

NOTE: Source for

sink basin on page 66
a.

TOP FRAME
FRONT/BACK
(3"x 30!/2") #8 x 1#/4"
T
Fh woodscrew

U
NOTE: Frame b. c.
made from TOP FRAME SIDE
1"-thick hardwood (3"x 17!/8")

54 • Woodsmith / No. 261

the legs (detail ‘a’). Fit the joints Before mounting the
MOUNTING. Install the faucet in the sink
together and glue up the frame. vanity, be sure to turn the water basin before attaching them to
Once dry, position the frame lines off. Now move the van- the vanity (sources for both on
over the vanity, centered side ity into place. If you’re lucky, it page 66). A thin bead of caulking
to side and flush with the back. may fit with no noticeable gaps between the basin and the frame
Clamp the frame in place, drill around it, but the walls and should be enough to secure the
the pilot holes, and screw the floors of most homes aren’t flat sink. Once your sink is in place,
frame on top of the vanity. and square. If the vanity needs reattach the drain trap and water
FINISHING. It’s a good idea to to be levelled, trim a leg with a lines. Removing the drawer and
finish the vanity before install- saw, or shim beneath a leg so false front will make this process
ing it. We began by painting the vanity sits level. Secure the much easier. After the sink is in
the vanity with General Finishes’ vanity by driving long screws working order, you’re finished!
“Persian Blue” milk paint, then through the nailer piece and Enjoy the new splash of color
applied lacquer over the top. into the studs of your wall. and style in your bathroom. W

Materials, Supplies & Cutting Diagram

1⁄ x 6 - 81⁄
A Legs (4) 21⁄4 x 21⁄4 - 33 L Drawer Insides (2) 2 2 • (4) Brushed Nickel Andante Pull
3 ⁄ x 151⁄ - 173 ⁄ M Drawer Backs (2) 1 1
⁄2 x 6 - 9 ⁄4
B Side Panels (2) 4 4 4 • (1 pr) 16" Full-Ext. Drawer Slide
3 N Drawer Middle Back (1) 1 ⁄2 x 6 - 51⁄2
C Rails (6) 1 x 2 - 18 ⁄8 • (1) 31" W x 22" D Sink Basin
1⁄ x 6 - 24
D Stretchers (5) 1 x 2 - 263 ⁄4 O Drawer Front (1) 2 • (1) 4" Center Set Faucet
3 ⁄ x 3 - 251⁄ 3⁄4 x 3⁄4 - 171⁄8
E Nailer (1) 4 2 P Side Slat Cleats (2) • (12) #8 x 11⁄4" Pocket screws
F False Front Cleats (2) 3 3 1
⁄4 x ⁄4 - 25 ⁄2 Q Front/Back Slat Cleats (2) 3⁄4 x 3⁄4 - 251⁄2 • (48) #8 x 11⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
3 ⁄ x 3 ⁄ - 57 ⁄ 3 ⁄ x 33 ⁄ - 213⁄
G False Front Side Cleats (2) 4 4 8 R Slats (6) 4 8 8 • (10) #8 x 13 ⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
3 1 3 S End Slats (2) 3 ⁄ x 37 ⁄ - 213⁄
H False Fronts (2) ⁄4 x 7 ⁄4 - 25 ⁄8 4 16 8
I Drawer Slide Supports (2) 3 ⁄ x 3 - 171⁄
4 8 T Top Frame Front/Back (2) 1 x 3 - 301⁄2
J Drawer Bottoms (1) 1 1
⁄4 ply. - 15 ⁄2 x 24 U Top Frame Sides (2) 1 x 3 - 171⁄8
K Drawer Sides (2) 1⁄ x 6 - 16
2

!/2"x 6!/2" - 36" Hard Maple (1.6 Sq. Ft.)

O N AlSO NEEDED: One 24" x 24"

sheet of 1⁄4" maple plywood

!/2"x 6!/2" - 72" Hard Maple (3.3 Sq. Ft.)

K K M M L L

#/4"x 2" - 84" Poplar (1.2 Bd. Ft.)

Q F P G

#/4"x 7!/2" - 96" Poplar (5.0 Bd. Ft.) (Need two)

A A
H A A
A A

#/4"x 7!/2" - 86" Poplar (5.0 Bd. Ft.)

B B B B

R R R S

#/4"x 7!/2" - 45" Poplar (2.1 Bd. Ft.) 1"x 6!/2" - 48" Poplar (2.6 Bd. Ft.)
I E T U
I D T U

1"x 7" - 84" Poplar (4.1 Bd. Ft.)

D D D
D C C C
D C C C

Woodsmith.com • 55
 CNC
Project The moving wheels >
of a wood clock,
combined with its

Whimsical
calm tick-tock, is a
mesmerizing thing
to witness. Each time
you wind the clock
you have 12 hours of
enjoyment.

Clock
Time stops for a moment
for everyone who beholds
this project. And then
they want to know how
it’s done — it all starts
with your CNC
machine.

T his clock is one

of the more
unique projects that
have graced the pages
of Woodsmith. There
are several reasons for
this. First, obviously,
it’s a working clock
made out of wood.
Second, you have two
options in how to build
it: download the CNC files,
or the full-size patterns for } This project will keep your
your scroll saw. Both items are CNC machine humming and
found at Woodsmith.com/261. happy for the workout. MDF core
The next thing that stands out plywood is the best option for the
about this clock is — holy moly, all making the precise parts of the clock.
them gears and wheels. Not to worry, you
don’t have to be a horologist to make this
clock. It’s more like a fancy puzzle that moves
and makes a charming sound once you’ve put
it together.
CLOCK GLOSSARY. We can’t go into all the nuances
of clock making in these few pages. So I heart-
ily recommend an informative set of videos
on YouTube from the National Watch & Clock
Museum that go into great detail about the
hows and whys a clock ticks. Also online at

56 • Woodsmith / No. 261 Written & Illustrated by: Erich Lage

our site is a primer and glossary 1 !/4" Sleeve bearing
to help you navigate the nomen-
clature. So let’s jump in.
The wood parts of the clock FRONT PLATE
are made of three materials: 1⁄4"
MDF core plywood, 1⁄8" veneer
core plywood, and 1⁄4" dowels.
UPPER STRUT Sleeve
PLAN OF ATTACK bearing
NOTE: All clock parts
There are four steps you need are cut from !/4"
MDF core plywood LOWER
to take to successfully complete STRUT
the clock. These steps will make
working on the clock a lot easier. HANGER
TOP
1- DRY RUN. Start with a complete CORD STOP
dry assembly of the movements. HOLE
HANGER
First, sand all the cut out parts SIDE
!/4" Dowel
and follow the steps shown here 2" long
and in the rest of this article.
BACK PLATE
This ensures the parts of the
HANGER HANGER LOWER
clock interact smoothly. OUTER BACK INNER BACK SUPPORT
2 - APPLY FINISH. After taking the
movements apart, apply your a.
stain and finish to the parts. No
finish or stain on the working
teeth or leaves though.
3 - REASSEMBLE. Add the winding
cord to the ratchet assembly and
the shot to the weight shell as
you reassemble the clock. 2 ANCHOR
a.
SIDE SECTION VIEW
4 - CALIBRATE. This involves put- ESCAPEMENT
ANCHOR
ting the clock in beat and setting ARBOR NOTE: All
Pallet ANCHOR dimensions are
the rate. Then you can glue the (3&/16") ARBOR approximate.
PINION ESCAPE Adjust parts
parts together. NOTE: When (8 leaves) WHEEL 2#/16 ANCHOR
reassembled, ARBOR ESCAPEMENT on your arbors
PLATES FIRST. Figure 1 shows how anchor escapment for smooth
(3&/16) operation
to get the ball rolling. The clock is glued to arbor
Pallet
movements are anchored on #/4 Graphite
NOTE: Apply
two plates. Each plate is made graphite on
arbors where CRUTCH
of two pieces glued together. they contact
The struts, hanger assembly, bearings NOTE: When
ESCAPE WHEEL reassembled,
and lower support are glued to (30 teeth) escape wheel NOTE: All arbors
the back plate. If the bearings and pinon is are made from
glued to !/4" hardwood
don’t fit snugly, you can glue CRUTCH arbor dowels
them in place
The profile of the front plate is CRUTCH ARM
(&/8)
identical to the back but there are
added bushings to install. When
it’s done, set it aside until later. b. SIDE SECTION VIEW
START THE WHEEL TRAIN. The first NOTE: This clock
ESCAPE WHEEL has a single wheel O
moving parts that are fit to the 1#/8 ARBOR train. The fitting E s
bottom plate are the anchor process starts
PINION at the top
assembly and the escape wheel For CNC files or
assembly (Figure 2). The crutch 1!/4 ESCAPE WHEEL full-size patterns
for the clock to
attaches to the anchor arbor that make with your
scroll saw, go to:
feeds through the plate (detail %/16
‘a’). The escape wheel sits in a Graphite Woodsmith.com/261
bearing in the plate (detail ‘b’).

Project Design: Chris Fitch Woodsmith.com • 57

3 a.
RATCHET
ASSSEMBLY Adding more
NOTE: Assembly
must turn
freely on
WHEELS
CENTER ARBOR arbor
(4&/16")
PINION PULL
The next layer of the clock starts
(10 leaves) HUB with the great wheel. This is
the foundation of an assembly
WEIGHT Cord
SPOOL WALL SPACER hole that’s the heart of any clock. It
HUB
PULL absorbs the energy of the power
HUB
SPOOL source (provided by a weight
Cord hole WEIGHT WALL
HUB in this case) and passes it along
RATCHET to the rest of the clock move-
WHEEL NOTE: Ratchet RATCHET
teeth interlock WHEEL ments. Great wheel assemblies
with pawls on are as varied as there are types of
great wheel
GREAT WHEEL clocks. This one, like the clock, is
(64 teeth) NOTE: Once assembled,
ream hole with !&/64" elegantly simple.
bit for smooth operation
RATCHET ASSEMBLY. Our great
wheel, the one you see in Figure
3, holds the ratchet assembly
b. SIDE SECTION VIEW shown in detail ‘a,’ and a pinion
that turns a wheel that drives
PAWL the hour hand, I’ll talk more
1!%/16 CENTER ARBOR
about that later.
PINION
The spools on the ratchet hold
!/4 SPACER the cord that’s tied to the weight
GREAT
WHEEL RATCHET and pull. (The direction of the
ASSEMBLY
teeth on the ratchet wheel must
match what you see in the draw-
NOTE: When reassembled, %/16 Graphite
great wheel and pinon are
ing). The ratchet assembly needs
glued to arbor NOTE: All
to turn freely on the center arbor
dimensions are approximate. for the clock to work properly.
Adjust parts on your arbors
for smooth operation PAWLS. The pawls that you see
just above the great wheel cor-
4 ral the energy from the ratchet
assembly and pass it along to
the rest of the clock. After you
NOTE: The two ends of the
wheel train are in place. glue the pawls in place on the
The bridge wheel in great wheel, you can bring the
Figure 5 is what
joins them CENTER ARBOR
parts together.
Detail ‘b’ shows how to space
the great wheel, ratchet assem-
bly, and pinion on the center
arbor. You want the pinion and
great wheel to fit snugly on the
arbor. Make sure the great wheel
turns smoothly in the bearing
(Figure 4). As I mentioned in the
details on the previous page, coat
the portion of the arbor that con-
Center arbor
bearing tacts the bearing with graphite.
THE BRIDGE WHEEL. Next comes the
bridge wheel. The pinion that’s
below the bridge wheel takes
power from the great wheel and
delivers it to the pinion on the

58 • Woodsmith / No. 261

 BRIDGE ARBOR
escapement assembly. Figure 5a 5 (2!#/16")
shows the location of the wheel NOTE: When reassembled,
PINION bridge wheel and pinion are
and pinion on the bridge arbor. (8 leaves) glued to arbor

MOTION WORKS
That completes the power source BRIDGE WHEEL
(60 teeth)
portion of the clock. But there’s Bridge
more to do on the front of the arbor bearing
clock before we can work on the
timing source that’s on the back-
side. The motion works takes a.
power from the great wheel and SIDE SECTION VIEW #/4 BRIDGE ARBOR
shares it between the hour and
minute hand. Figure 6 shows BRIDGE WHEEL
Escape
sliding the arbor for small hour pinion 1!/4 PINION
wheel into the bearing on the Great wheel
back side of the top plate. This
involves adding a the small %/16 Graphite
hour wheel that transfers power
through the front plate to the
hour hand pinion on the outside
a.
of the top plate. 6 SIDE SECTION VIEW
There are also bearings in the TOP PLATE
HOUR
INSTALLING THE MOTION WORKS ARBOR
top plate for the escapement
arbor, which serves as the driver !%/16 Graphite
for the second hand. Farther
down are bearings for the center Bearing
arbor’s minute hand. SMALL HOUR WHEEL
When the top plate is in place
on the struts you can add the HOUR
ARBOR TOP PLATE
large hour wheel and pinion that (1!/4")
are shown in Figure 7 below. The
large hour wheel has a mount
NOTE: When
glued to it. This will hold the reassembled,
friction-fit hour hand and let it small hour
wheel is
track separately from the minute glued to arbor
SMALL HOUR WHEEL
hand. Once again, make sure this (30 teeth)
wheel doesn’t hang up on the a. NOTE: Hour
center arbor. hand mount SIDE SECTION VIEW
is glued to
large hour Center Arbor
NOTE: Ream hole in large
7 hour wheel assembly HOUR HAND
wheel
LARGE HOUR WHEEL
with !&/64" drill bit MOUNT HOUR HAND
MOUNT
PINION
(8 leaves) LARGE
HOUR
WHEEL
(32 teeth) Graphite

b. SIDE SECTION VIEW Large hour wheel

Hour wheel pinion
NOTE: If possible,
leave pinion as
a friction fit on arbor Escape
Anchor wheel
assembly assembly

Bridge wheel Great wheel

Crutch Small hour wheel assembly
assembly

Woodsmith.com • 59
 8 a.
NOTE: Numbers
MINUTE HAND are cut
SECOND HAND MINUTE HAND out of
MOUNT !/8" veneer
core
plywood

!/8"
roundover

HOUR
HAND DIAL

NOTE: Dial is
made form
!/4" MDF core
plywood
9 WEIGHT SHELL
ASSEMBLY #6 x !/2" Rh
b. woodscrew
SPACER
AXEL
Working towards a PULLEY
(2")

MOMENT IN TIME
To finish the dry run of the
clock puzzle, you need to add COVER
the hands, dial ring, make the
weight and pull, and add the
timing source. The timing source BACK
is the pendulum and bob that
FRONT
will get your clock tick-tocking.
THE HOUR HAND. This all starts
with fitting the hands. Detail ‘a’ the clock. To do that, you’ll need
shows what is going on close to hang the clock temporarily on
up. The hour hand fits tightly the wall, and turn your focus to
on the mount you glued to the the pendulum.
large hour wheel. The enlarged INTERIOR
hole on the large hour wheel lets LINKING UP FRAME
it operate independently of the All this power that you’ll shortly
center arbor that it’s housed on. have needs to be harnessed and only controls the power flow, it
(It’s controlled by the pinion of released in a timely fashion creates the tick and the tock we
the small hour wheel.) (sorry, couldn’t resist that one). love about clocks. Now back to
THE MINUTE HAND. Meanwhile To do that, you’re going to link the pendulum.
the minute hand is friction fit the power source (the weight) THE PENDULUM. Figure 10 shows
on it’s mount, that is driven by to the timing source (the pen- the pendulum hanger glued to
the center arbor. Confusing? dulum). That link is the anchor the end of the pendulum shaft.
Not really. As you bring these arbor and escapement you see The screws in the hanger sit in
parts together how they interact in Figure 10a on the next page. the divots in the hanger top,
becomes much clearer. The arms of the crutch hold and allowing the pendulum shaft
When you’re comfortable direct the shaft of the pendu- to swing freely back and forth.
with the fit, remove the minute lum. You mounted the crutch How fast it swings back and
hand and glue the dial to the top to the anchor arbor way back forth is dictated by how far up
plate. That is — after you glue at the beginning of our journey. the shaft the bob at the other
the numbers on the dial face. Also on the arbor, on the other end is positioned. For now,
That completes the dry run and side of the bottom plate is the just make sure the pendulum
test fitting stage — almost. You anchor escapement. The escape- swings freely and the crutch
need to add the timing source of ment is the gatekeeper that not moves smoothly.

60 • Woodsmith / No. 261

 THE POWER. Finally, let’s talk about the power source. The 10 #6 x %/8"
weight is strung to the clock through the winding cord that Fh woodscrew
loops through the pulley. The shell itself is not that heavy,
that’s why you fill it with shot through the opening in the
back. Wait to fill the shell until the next step is done.
DO IT AGAIN. With all the parts together and interacting PENDULUM
HANGER
smoothly, your reward is to take it all apart. It’s time to (%/8"Woodscrews")
disassemble the clock and apply the finish you prefer (every-
where but the teeth and leaves of the wheels and pinions). a.
This time as you reassemble the clock, you’ll need to add
the winding cord. This starts with loading the cord on the
spool of the ratchet assembly as you put the great wheel back
PENDULUM
together. As the box below shows, one end goes to the pull. HANGER
The other end loops through the weight and is tied off in the (%/8"Woodscrews")
hole on the lower strut. NOTE: Screws
When the clock is back together and the parts are interact- in hanger rest
in divots on
ing smoothly, you can spot-glue all of the wheels and pinions hanger top
to their arbors. Be careful to avoid gluing the moving parts.
CALIBRATION. Your beautiful clock will dazzle and charm peo- Divot
ple as it is now. But you still need to go online at Woodsmith.
com/261 to learn how to put the clock in beat and set the rate.
Unless you actually are a horologist — then you’re way
ahead of the game. W NOTE: Arms
on crutch
direct

ADD THE WINDING CORD

pendulum
shaft

Crutch

NOTE: Wrap 5'

1 of cord counter
clockwise around
pull hub
NOTE: Wrap
10' of cord
clockwise b.
around
weight
hub Weight
hub Pull
Weight cord hub
Pull cord

BOB
2 PENDULUM MOUNTING
SHAFT PLATE
NOTE: Feed (!/4" x !/2" x 48") (!/32"x !/2" x 2"
pull and weight brass plate)
cords through
winding cord
guide
Pull cord Weight cord
BOB
Winding cord NOTE: Tie
guide weight cord
to cord
NOTE: Tie stop hole
pull cord to O
pull E s
Start by feeding the cord through the hole in the middle
To learn how to
spool wall. Figure 1 shows the amount of cord and direc- #6 x #/8" Sheet get your clock
tion the for each side. Then tie the cord to the pull, and metal screw running perfectly,
go to:
loop the weight as you see in Figure 2.
Woodsmith.com/261

Woodsmith.com • 61
MASTERING
the Table Saw

Bridle Joints on
the Table Saw

62 • Woodsmith / No. 261 Written by: Phil Huber

 Tenon

W ith all the options

available, choosing
the joinery for a project can feel
overwhelming. To be honest, it’s
Open
mortise
Large glue
surfaces for a
something a lot of woodworkers strength, but is out of sight once strong joint
(myself included) obsess about a it’s assembled.
little too much. Instead Dillon chose a show-
An easy way to narrow your ier version called a bridle joint. the way through the width of the
choices is by dividing joinery You can see it in the leg and rail workpiece. It’s also exposed on
into two broad categories: case assemblies of the valet chair in the end, looking like a large slot.
joinery and frame joinery. Case the photos below. It works just as A through mortise allows the
joints have flat, relatively wide well in frame and panel settings, mating tenon to be longer (and
parts. Think cabinets or boxes. too in case you’re interested. stronger). You’ll also notice that
Frame assemblies cover such There are a couple of things I there are no end shoulders on the
territory as picture frames, like about bridle joints. First, You tenon, either. Adding these up
doors, even table bases and get all the strength of a mortise means there is a lot of face grain
chairs. It’s the realm ruled by and tenon. Along with it, the glue surface to go with the good
the mortise and tenon. So when exposed joinery provides visual looks. Come assembly time, the
design editor Dillon Baker went punctuation to the overall proj- wide shoulders help register the
looking for the right joinery for ect. It’s almost like inlay — super parts. They also resist racking
his valet chair (page 28), the strong inlay. (diagonal) forces during the life
mortise and tenon was waiting. ANATOMY. The drawing above of the project.
This joinery option has plenty of shows how the components On a side note, this joint looks
work together. You a lot like a super-sized finger
can clearly see the joint. Take a quick glance at the
family resemblance valet chair again and you can see
to regular mortise how the bridle joints on the legs
and tenon work. and the finger joints in the back
Let’s start with the support are complementary.
mortise. It extends all SIMPLIFICATION. Using bridle
joinery has other benefits, too.
Sizing parts is simplified. The
parts run the full length so
there’s no depth of mortise/
length of tenon ciphering that
has to take place. This really
comes in handy when making
frame and panel doors.
Another benefit is more pro-
cess related. Cutting the mortise
and forming the tenon are simi-
lar steps with this joint. This
{ Bridle joints connecting can reduce the number of tools
the legs and rails of needed and eases the setup
this chair draw your when getting started.
attention and add visual For this article, I show how the
appeal to the look of joint is made at the table saw. All
the whole piece. it takes is a simple jig.

Illustrations: Bob Zimmerman Woodsmith.com • 63

 !/4"- 20 x 3" Hex bolt and wing nut
carriage bolt used to secure stop !/4"- 20 x 2!/2"
attaches hex bolt
hold-down and washer
in several
positions BRACE
(3!/2"x 3!/2")

SUPPORT STOP
(6!/2"x 16") (%/8"- 1" x 9")

!/4"- 20 x 2!/2"
BACK FENCE hanger
(3"x 16") bolt
!/4"- 20
lock nut
& washer
Hold-down keeps
workpiece tight
against the %/8
fence
NOTE: Stop is %/8"-thick hardwood. FRONT FENCE
All other parts are #/4" MDF. (8"x 16")
a.

START WITH A TENONING JIG CUTTING THE JOINT

The key to cutting a bridle joint When cutting joinery
is to use a tenoning jig. This kind with power tools, consis-
of jig holds the workpiece verti- tently sized parts make
cally to the saw table. This allows a huge difference. Spend
you to create a deep mortise on some time planing and
the end of a workpiece, as well sizing the parts so that
as the tenon for the mating part. they’re the same thick-
I also find that this cutting action ness and width. Hitting
results in a smoother glue sur- a specific dimension isn’t
face than a typical dado blade as big of deal as con-
tenon-making operation. sistency among parts.
OLD-SCHOOL OR DIY. Tenoning jigs Otherwise, you’ll end up
take two forms: cast iron jigs, fiddling with every joint.
or shop-made versions. Either MORTISES, FIRST. The order of Most of the time, the mortise
type of jig will work for this operations on a bridle joint is the is centered. I make one pass with
method. Cast iron tenoning jigs same as with a regular mortise the workpiece set just offcen-
go in and out of fashion. And and tenon. Form the mortises ter to the blade. Then I flip the
we’re definitely in an ebb-tide then use them to gauge the size workpiece around and make a
situation right now. of the tenons. The tenon faces second pass.
SIMPLE & SHOP-MADE. I don’t want are easier to adjust than the Take a moment to measure the
the lack of a jig to slow you down inner recesses of the a mortise width of the mortise. If neces-
from learning how do this. The — even an open mortise. sary, bump the fence away from
drawing above shows my favor- Figure 1 on the next page the blade to make it wider. Then
ite shop-made tenoning jig. It shows you the setup for cutting fire up to cut a mortise on each
rides on your table saw’s rip the mortise. It shows a regular end of all the relevant parts.
fence. And it’s easily adjustable. blade installed in the table saw. SHIFT FOR TENONS. The tenon-mak-
The body can be adjusted to suit But if you have mortises that will ing step in Figure 2 looks nearly
your rip fence. The stop handles be wider than 1⁄4", you can use a identical to how the mortises
square and angled joints with dado blade. Just be aware that a were formed. The big difference
ease. Both plywood or MDF are dado blade limits the length of is that the workpiece is shifted
solid material choices. the mortise. so that the blade is cutting on

64 • Woodsmith / No. 261

the outside, leaving the tenon in 1 a.
the middle.
Just as with the mortise, the
tenon is formed by making pairs
of passes. You make a pass along
one side of the workpiece, then FIRST: Make
flip it around for a second pass. first cut a little
off center
This is detailed in Figure 2
If you’re using a standard
blade, may need to make a series b.
of passes (on all your parts) to
work your way down to a tenon
Blade height
that’s close to fitting. equals width
That’s not a bad thing. I prefer of tenon
piece
to cut the tenon thick, then make
small adjustments to dial in the
fit. Trying to get an acceptable fit
in one go is asking for trouble.
I’m aiming for a tenon to slide
into the mortise with moderate 2 a.
resistance. Easy enough to do Test
with my hands, without having piece
to resort to clamps or heavy mal-
let blows. At this point, complete Cut tenons
a little "fat"
the remaining tenons on all the and sneak
up on size
rest of your parts.
PAUSE FOR GROOVES. If your proj-
ect is a chair or table, you can
skip ahead to assembly advice
below. For frame and panel
work, you need to make the
panel grooves at this point in
the process. Just be sure to stop
the groove short of the tenons. clamps from both directions to Bridle joinery and the table
If you don’t, you’ll end up with ensure that the parts are fully saw were made for each other.
gaps and misaligned parts. seated. In addition, the mortise The skills are easily mastered.
ASSEMBLY. If there’s a downside to sides could flare away from the The payoff is a joinery option that
bridle joinery, you’ll encounter it tenon requiring another clamp not only stands the test of time,
at glueup. The open-ended mor- right on the joint. This is what but also packs a visual punch.
tise means you have to apply you see in the photo below. That’s a lesson worth learning. W

< Assembling a bridle

joint often requires
an array of clamps
to keep the parts
aligned.

Woodsmith.com • 65
 Sources
Most of the materials and supplies you’ll need to build the projects are available
at hardware stores or home centers. For specific products or hard-to-find items,
take a look at the sources listed here. You’ll find each part number listed by the
company name. See the left margin for contact information.

MAIL ROUTER WORKSHOP (p.18) 1⁄ "

4 Knobs . . . . . . . . . 6121K311 BATHROOM VANITY (p.50)
ORDER • Infinity Cutting Tools • Kreg Tool The vanity was painted with
SOURCES 2" Dado Planing Bit . . . . . 52-506 Router Lift. . . . . . . . . . PRS5000 General Finishes’ “Persian Blue”
Project supplies may Insert Plate Levelers . . PRS3040 milk paint, then finished with
be ordered from the VALET CHAIR (p.28) The case of the router table was two coats of lacquer.
following • McMaster-Carr painted with Benjamin Moore’s • Home Depot
companies: Pivot Bracket. . . . . . . . .8993K61 “Clearest Ocean Blue” paint in Sink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207058614
1⁄ " Spacers . . . . . . . 92320A662
Woodsmith Store 4 their Regal line. Then everything • Menards
800-444-7527 Thumbscrew . . . . . . 91746A414 was topped with a couple of Faucet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6735026
store.woodsmith.com
Threaded Insert. . . . 95807A300 coats of satin lacquer. • Rockler
Rockler The mahogany and straight- Drawer Slides . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48469
800-279-4441
rockler.com grained ash need no further BAHUT CABINET (p.42) Andante Pulls . . . . . . . . . . 1005734
embellishment, so I sprayed • Brusso
amazon.com
two coats of satin lacquer and Shelf Sleeves . . . . . . . . . . . . . K-2 CNC CLOCK (p.56)
Benjamin Moore let the wood shine. Shelf Supports. . . . . . . . . . . K-10 • McMaster-Carr
855-724-6802
benjaminmoore.com Pivot Hinge . . . . . . . . . . . . . L-87 Sleeve Bearings . . . . . 6389K231
ROUTER TABLE (p.34) Ball Catch . . . . . . . . . . . .BC-265 Polyester Twine. . . . . . .8936T61
Brusso Products LLC
212-337-8510 • Rockler The cabinet is finished with The clock is finished with your
brusso.com Blum 155° Hinges . . . . . . 67052 General Finishes “Seal-A-Cell” choice of stain and rub-on
General Finishes 14" Drawer Slides . . . . . . 63114 and two coats of lacquer that lacquer, after the first fitting.
800-783-6050 • McMaster-Carr allow the walnut to glow. No stain or finish should be
generalfinishes.com
Edge Pulls . . . . . . . . . . 1471A22 applied to wheel teeth or pin-
Home Depot 3⁄ " Knobs . . . . . . . . . .6121K611
8 ion leaves.
800-466-3337
homedepot.com

Infinity Cutting Tools

877-872-2487
infinitytools.com
®
Kreg Tool
800-447-8638
kregtool.com V
Valuable Video Tips from the
McMaster-Carr Woodsmith Shop TV Show
630-833-0300
mcmaster.com
Quick & Easy Printable Tips
Menards
menards.com from Woodsmith Magazine
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66 • Woodsmith / No. 261
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