ENG. Masha
ENG. Masha
Crochet Pattern
Masha by Anna Sadovskaya (zovutka)
1. 100% acrylic yarn (190-200 m (210-220 yards) in 50 g skein) – 100 g of skin color, 50 g of
crimson color, a little of yellow and white colors. The thicker yarn you use, the bigger toy
you will get.
2. Novelty yarn (faux fur), pile length 3-4 cm (1.2-1.6 inches) 90 m in 100 g skein – 50 g for
the wig. I used Nazar-Rus "Fluffy" (100% polyester, 90 m/100 g) color No. 2019.
3. Matching crochet hook (I used 1.75 mm (for the body), 1 mm (for the eyes) and 6 mm for
the wig).
4. Circular or hosiery needles 2.5 mm.
5. Embroidery floss: in black, green and white colors for the eyes, brown embroidery for the
eyebrows and mouth.
6. Stuffing.
7. Single core copper electrical wire for a frame – I used 1.5 m (60 inches) of wire 2.5 mm in
diameter. At will – a wire with a diameter of 0,4 mm for a framework of fingers.
8. For the shirt: the cut of white cotton tricot (30х30 cm) and a little of blue cotton tricot
for cuffs, 4 small buttons.
9. 1 cm wide ribbon for decoration of the sundress.
10. Plastic safety joints. I used joints with a diameter of 15 mm for the hands (2 pieces) and
20 mm for the legs (2 pieces). You can use another method of joint.
11. Any material for tinting you like.
Finished size approx. 35 cm (14 inches) using the materials stated in the pattern.
If there is a record in the brackets in the pattern, multiplied by some number, for example
(3 sc, inc) x 3, it means you need to repeat this action 3 times, that is 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc.
If you use different yarn, the toy will be bigger or smaller and you will need more or less yarn and
wire than stated in the pattern (i.e. thicker yarn will produce a larger toy and you may require more
yarn and wire).
If you decide to use thicker yarn you should buy thicker wire as well. The thicker your yarn the taller
the toy will be.
Tip (gauge)
When making toys, you should use a much smaller hook than recommended for the yarn you choose.
Make sure you crochet tight enough; otherwise, the stuffing will show through the holes.
Usually you have to do shift stitches every 3-5 rounds (depending on the yarn, hook and your gauge).
To check if it is time to work shift stitch fold your work in half and check if marker still goes
straight.
Hands (make 2)
MIDDLE FINGER:
Fasten off and cut the thread for the thumb finger. Do not cut off the yarn for the little finger;
continue to crochet connecting the fingers into a palm.
Left hand
Rnd 1: 3 sc in the little finger , 3 sc in the ring finger , 3 sc in the middle finger , 5 sc around
the index finger , 2 sc in the middle finger
Move a marker here. Now the beginning of a round
will be here (the middle of a palm, inner side). Align
a marker in the course of crocheting of a hand.
Rnd 4: 15 sc, dec (make two sc together, the first sc going through the palm stitch and the second
sc through the thumb stitch), 2 sc through stitches of the thumb only, 2 sc (20)
Cut off 5 pieces of a wire with a diameter of 0.4 mm, approx. 10 cm (4 inches). Then fold each piece
in half and insert into fingers. Cut off 1 piece of a wire with a diameter of 2.5 mm, approx. 12 cm (5
inches), bend the one end of a wire. Connect all pieces of a wire together and wind with an adhesive
plaster.
Insert plastic safety joint into the crocheted opening (I used joint 15 mm in diameter). Cut off an
excess wire, bend the end of wire. Stuff the hand.
Right hand
Rnd 1: 2 sc in the little finger , 2 sc in the ring finger , 2 sc in the middle finger , 5 sc around
the index finger , 3 sc in the middle finger, 3 sc in the ring finger, 3 sc in the little finger
Crochet 4 sc and move a marker here. Now the beginning of a round will be here (the middle of a
palm, inner side). Align a marker in the course of crocheting of a hand.
Rnd 3: 2 sc, 2 sc going through one stitch of the palm + one stitch of the thumb , 16 sc (20)
Rnd 4: 2 sc, 2 sc through stitches of the thumb only, dec (make two sc together, the first sc going
through the thumb stitch and the palm stitch), 15 sc (20)
Insert plastic safety joint into the crocheted opening (I used joint 15 mm in diameter). Cut off an
excess wire, bend the end of wire. Stuff the hand.
Legs (make 2)
Start with socks, a yarn of white color. The marker goes along the middle of inside of a leg.
Left leg
FOOT:
Rnd 1: ch 5, from the second loop from hook: inc, 2 sc, 4 sc in the last loop, on the other side of the
chain: 2 sc, inc (12)
Rnd 3: sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, sc (20)
Fasten off and cut the yarn, hide the end of the thread.
Attach a yarn to the 11th loop of the chain of the 12th round
and crochet THE LEG:
Fasten off and cut the white yarn. Attach a skin color yarn to the 1st back loop of the 4th round and
continue crocheting the leg:
Rnd 7 (into the back loops of the 4th round): (dec, 9 sc) х 2 (20)
Cut off a wire with a diameter of 2.5 mm, about 20 cm (8 inches) long, bend a noose on the end, wind
with an adhesive plaster, insert into the leg. Stuff the foot.
Insert plastic safety joint into the crocheted opening (I used joint 20 mm in diameter). Cut off an
excess wire, bend the end of wire. Stuff the leg.
Right leg
FOOT:
Rnd 1: ch 5, from the second loop from hook: inc, 2 sc, 4 sc in the last loop, on the other side of the
chain: 2 sc, inc (12)
Rnd 3: sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, sc (20)
Rnd 13 (CROCHET THE HEEL): dec (make two sc together, the first sc going through the foot stitch
and the second sc through the 1st loop of the chain of the 12th round), 10 sc in the chain , dec
(make two sc together, the first sc going through the last loop of the chain and the second sc
through the foot stitch ), 12 sc across the foot (24)
Attach a yarn to the 1st loop of the chain of the 12th round and crochet THE LEG:
Rnd 1: 1 sc in the 1st loop of the chain of the 12th round , sc between the heel and the foot , 8
sc in the foot , sc between the foot and the heel , 11 sc across the chain of the 12th round (22)
Fasten off and cut the white yarn. Attach a skin color yarn to the 1st back loop of the 4th round and
continue to crochet the leg:
Rnd 7 (into the back loops of the 4th round): (dec, 9 sc) х 2 (20)
Cut off a wire with a diameter of 2.5 mm, about 20 cm (8 inches) long, bend a noose on the end, wind
with an adhesive plaster, insert into the leg. Stuff the foot.
Body
The marker goes along the middle of the back.
Rnd 6: sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, sc (32)
Rnd 7: 2 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 2 sc (36)
Rnd 9: 3 sc, inc, 5 sc, 2 sc under the chain, 5 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 5 sc,
2 sc under the chain, 5 sc, inc, 3 sc (44)
Rnd 11: 8 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) х 2, 16 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) х 2, 8 sc (52)
Rnd 12: 8 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) х 2, 18 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) х 2, 8 sc (58)
Insert the joints of the legs into openings of the 8th round. Latch
the joints.
Rnd 35: 20 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 20 sc (54)
Rnd 38: 19 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 19 sc (50)
Rnd 39 (crochet openings for joints ): 10 sc, ch 2, 2 sc skip, 26 sc, ch 2, 2 sc skip, 10 sc (50)
Rnd 40: 10 sc, 2 sc under the chain, 26 sc, 2 sc under the chain, 10 sc (50)
Rnd 41: 18 sc, dec, sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, sc, dec, 18 sc (46)
Insert the joints of the hands into openings of the 39th round. Latch the joints.
Rnd 44: 7 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 3
sc, dec, 7 sc (40)
Rnd 45: 6 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc (36)
Rnd 46: 5 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 5 sc (32)
Rnd 47: 4 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) х 3, 3 sc, dec, 4 sc
(26)
Rnd 48: 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc (22)
Fasten off, cut yarn leaving enough to attach the head. Stuff the shoulders and the neck.
Head
The marker goes along the middle of the nape.
You can note the 36th and 45th stitches in the 37th
round – there will be points of the pulling for the eyes.
Rnd 38: 16 sc, (sc, inc) х 10, 8 sc, (inc, sc) х 10, 16 sc
(100)
You can note the 46th and 55th stitches in the 48th round – there will be points of the pulling for
the mouth.
Rnd 49: 21 sc, (3 sc, dec) х 5, 3 sc, inc х 2, 3 sc, (dec, 3 sc) х 5, 21 sc (92)
Rnd 52: 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) х 3, 14 sc, (dec, 8 sc) х 3, dec, 4 sc (78)
Hair
Novelty yarn (faux fur), pile length 3-4 cm (1.2-1.6 inches) 90 m in 100 g skein. I used Nazar-Rus
"Fluffy" (100% polyester, 90 m/100 g). Hook 6 mm.
It is important to receive elastic cloth with the minimum quantity of pile when crocheting of the wig,
otherwise hair will stand upright. Therefore crochet freely. I took the biggest hook which I had.
Nose
Rnd 1: ch 4, from the second loop from hook: inc, sc, 4 sc in the last
loop, on the other side of the chain: sc, inc (10)
Eyes (make 2)
Embroidery floss 4 strands held together, steel hook 1 mm,
starting with black.
Rnd 6: ch 2, dc, hdc, inc hdc, 2 hdc, inc hdc, hdc, 9 sc, hdc, inc hdc, 2 hdc, inc hdc, hdc, sc, 7 sl st (34)
Rnd 6: hdc, inc hdc, 2 hdc, inc hdc, hdc, dc, ch 2, 7 sl st, sc, hdc, inc hdc, 2 hdc, inc hdc, hdc, 9 sc (34)
Fasten off, cut the yarn. Use the same thread to embroider the white shine on the pupils.
Decoration
Embroider the curve of the ears using chain stitch and skin color
yarn. Without cutting the thread, crochet 1 round of sc in the
embroidered stitches, starting from the bottom for the right ear
and from the top for the left ear. Fasten off, cut the yarn and
hide the end.
On the face outline the points of pulling for eyes and mouth. The eyes are between the 37th and
38th rounds, 4 stitches from the center of the face to the left and to the right. The corners of the
mouth are between the 48th and 49th rounds, 5 stitches from the center to the left and to the
right.
Insert your needle in the right corner of the mouth and pull it out in the point of the right eye, pull
the thread. Re-insert the needle one stitch away and pull it out in the right corner of the mouth, pull
the thread. Repeat several times, pulling the thread.
Repeat this action similarly for the left eye and for the left corner of the mouth. Pull out the thread
in an opening of a neck and fix.
Pin the wig to the head. Stretch it in a shape of the head, using the fact that you have an elastic
cloth. Sew the wig to the head with a same colored sewing thread.
Sew the eyes to the head with a sewing thread. With brown thread embroider the mouth, the
eyebrows and the contour of eyes. You can slightly tint the face using any material you like (oil pastel,
acrylic or oil paint, etc.)
Sandals (make 2)
Start with yellow yarn. The marker goes along the middle of the heel.
Rnd 1: ch 12, from the second loop from hook: inc, 2 hdc, 4 sc, hdc, dc, hdc, 4 sc in the last loop, on
the other side of the chain: hdc, dc, hdc, 4 sc, 2 hdc, inc (26)
Rnd 2: inc, (sc, hdc) in one stitch, dc, hdc, 4 sc, hdc, 2 dc, (hdc, sc) in one stitch, inc х 2, (sc, hdc) in
one stitch, 2dc, hdc, 4 sc, hdc, dc, (hdc, sc) in one stitch, inc (34)
Rnd 3: 2 sc, inc, hdc, inc dc, hdc, 4 sc, hdc, inc dc х 2, hdc, inc, 4 sc, inc, hdc, inc dc х 2, hdc, 4 sc,
hdc, inc dc, hdc, inc, 2 sc (44)
Rnd 5: sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 12 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) х 3, 12 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc (52)
Pull the loop on the hook, cut off the yarn, but do not fasten (leave the loop).
Attach the yellow yarn to the 17th stitch of the 6th round and crochet the sock from the back loop
only: 2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, dec dc, 4 dc, dec dc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc. Fasten off, cut the yarn.
Come back to the 6th round and continue to crochet the sandal, changing the yellow yarn to crimson
yarn.
Rnd 7: 15 sc from the back loop only, dec (hook both 16th stitch of the sole from the back loop only
and 1st stitch of the sock and crochet them together), 16 sc along the sock , dec (hook both the
last stitch of the sock and stitch of the sole from the back loop only and crochet them together),
15 sc from the back loop only (48)
Rnd 9: 14 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 14 sc (42)
Rnd 11: 11 sc, dec (hook both the stitch of the sandal and 1st
loop of the chain and crochet them together), 10 sc along
the chain , dec (hook both the last loop of the chain and the
stitch of the sandal and crochet them together), 11 sc (34)
Rnd 12: 4 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) х 3, 4 sc (30)
Crochet around the sandal with crab stitch/reverse single crochet from the front loops of the 5th
and 6th rounds. Crochet around 5th round with crimson yarn, crochet around 6th round with white
yarn.
Attach the crimson yarn to the 20th stitch of the 9th round and crochet tongue of the sandal in
rows, going back-and-forth:
Fasten off, cut the yarn. You can crochet 1 round sl st along the edge of the tongue, so the edge will
be more accurate.
Crochet the eyelet for the sandal with yellow yarn: ch 5, from the second loop from hook: inc, 2 sc,
4 sc in the last loop, on the other side of the chain: 2 sc, inc. Fasten off, cut yarn leaving enough to
sewing. Sew the eyelet to the tongue of the sandal so that the strap can freely move in this eyelet.
Shirt
Below is given the shirt pattern for a doll of 35 cm (14 inches) tall is given. You can correct this
pattern under your sizes. For this purpose you need to measure a grasp of the body of the doll in the
widest place. This size you need to halve and add 0.5 cm it will be the width of the pattern front.
Increase or decrease the pattern by this size. You can increase or decrease the pattern on your
monitor. Then copy the pattern on paper.
Now you can to transfer our patterns to material. I recommend at first sew a shirt from any
unnecessary material. You can sew quickly the details by a basting stitch and try on. You will see after
try-on what places on the pattern you need to correct. So, transfer patterns to white cotton tricot.
Cut out, leaving the allowances for seams. If you sew by the sewing-machine – leave an allowance of 10
mm. If you sew manually – leave an allowance of 5 mm.
Leave necessarily not less than 1 cm on an allowance for a bend on the right half of the back (to make
eyelets for buttons). I sewed the shirt from an old t-shirt therefore I decided not to bend the
bottom, and used ready bend of the t-shirt.
You need cut out the detail of the front, of the back, of the sleeves and also you need cut out the
collar and the cuffs for the sleeves. Cut out two rectangles for this purpose – 13х3 cm for the collar
and 6,5х3 cm for the sleeves (the sizes are given already taking into account allowances for seams; if
you have other sizes of patterns, then be guided by the total length of a neck of your shirt and a
grasp of a hand of your doll in the place of transition to a palm). Cut out the cuffs for the sleeves
from the blue tricot. Bend in half lengthways and iron the rectangles of the collar and the cuffs.
Sew the cuffs to the sleeves. Superpose the cuffs face and the sleeves face; sew, making 1-2 folds
on the sleeve to make same width of the sleeve and length of the cuff.
If it is necessary, bend the bottom of the shirt and sew. Sew lateral and shoulder seams of the shirt.
Sew the sleeves into the armholes. Sew the collar to the neck of the shirt the same way as the cuffs.
Cut out 4 openings for buttons on the right half of the back, work up the edges of the openings. Sew
4 buttons on the left half of the back. Dress the shirt on your doll.
Sundress
Knit with circular or hosiery needles 2.5 mm.
ABBREVIATIONS
k – knit (stitch)
p – purl (stitch)
yo – yarn over
Cast on 60 sts. Knit in circular rows, all stitches are knit sts.
Rnd 7: k15, yo, k1, yo, k30, yo, k1, yo, k15 (66)
Rnd 11: k16, yo, k1, yo, k32, yo, k1, yo, k16 (70)
Rnd 15: k17, yo, k1, yo, k34, yo, k1, yo, k17 (74)
Rnd 19: k18, yo, k1, yo, k36, yo, k1, yo, k18 (78)
Rnd 23: k19, yo, k1, yo, k38, yo, k1, yo, k19 (82)
Rnd 27: k20, yo, k1, yo, k40, yo, k1, yo, k20 (86)
Rnd 31: k21, yo, k1, yo, k42, yo, k1, yo, k21 (90)
Rnd 35: k22, yo, k1, yo, k44, yo, k1, yo, k22 (94)
Rnd 39: k23, yo, k1, yo, k46, yo, k1, yo, k23 (98)
Rnd 43: k24, yo, k1, yo, k48, yo, k1, yo, k24 (102)
Rnd 47: k25, yo, k1, yo, k50, yo, k1, yo, k25 (106)
Rnd 51: k26, yo, k1, yo, k52, yo, k1, yo, k26 (110)
Rnd 55: k27, yo, k1, yo, k54, yo, k1, yo, k27 (114)
Cast off all stitches, fasten off and cut the yarn.
Knit THE TOP OF THE SUNDRESS . By means of a hook cast on 60 sts across the first round and knit
the top of the sundress in circular rows, all stitches are knit sts.
Rnd 8: cast off 16 sts, k6, cast off 14 sts, k6, cast off 16 sts – on a needle you have 2 STRAPS OF THE
SUNDRESS . Attach the yarn to the left strap and knit:
Kerchief
Knitting needles 2.5 mm. Knit edge stitches in all rounds with knit sts.
Cast on 3 sts.
Rnd 1: k3 (3)
Rnd 3: k4 (4)
Knit similarly (increasing one stitch in each front round) 116 more rounds until on a needle there are
65 sts. The kerchief will begin to be twisted when knitting – do not worry, then we will iron and it will
straighten.
Knit similarly (decreasing one stitch in each front round) 120 more rounds until on a needle there are
3 sts.
Cast off all stitches, fasten off and cut the yarn.
Cast on 7 sts. Knit with St st 20 rounds, knit edge stitches in all rounds with knit sts. Fasten off, cut
yarn leaving enough to sewing.
Sew the first and last round of the eyelet, drag through it one end of the kerchief. Sew the eyelet
to the kerchief with a few stitches. When you dress the kerchief on the head – just drag the second
end through the eyelet.
Finished products created with this pattern may be used for commercial sale,
provided you comply with the following:
The items must be 100% handmade by you - the purchaser of the
pattern (no production-line allowed). Every person who uses my patterns
to make items for sale must have their own copy of the pattern.
In the description of any items for sale must state that they are based
on pattern by Anna Sadovskaya, include a link to my shop
www.etsy.com/shop/Knittlife
Any items you sell based on my patterns must feature only your own
photographs of the item you have made to sell. You do not have
permission to use my photographs to help sell your work.