CONTENTS

Forewords from John Torode and Gregg

Wallace
MODERN CLASSIC RECIPES
Soups
Egg and cheese dishes
Fish dishes
Meat dishes
All about roast beef
All about roast lamb
All about roast pork
Poultry and game dishes
All about roast poultry
Pasta and rice dishes
Side dishes
Desserts
Cakes and bakes
MASTERCHEF RECIPES
Starters
Main courses
Desserts
MASTERCHEF KNOW-HOW
Equipment
Fish
Shellfish
Poultry and game birds
Meat
Vegetables
Flavourings
Fruits and nuts
Eggs and dairy products
Rice, grains, and pulses
Dough, pastry, and cake
Pasta, noodles, and gnocchi
Savoury sauces and stocks
Flavour pairings
Recipe index
Kitchen data
British vegetables – what’s in season when
Acknowledgments
Copyright
John Torode

Having had the honour of working on

MasterChef for over 12 years now, I have tasted
some of the most fantastic food and watched
many people fulfil their dreams. Food has
changed and evolved over the years: we’ve
moved from nose-to-tail eating to molecular
gastronomy; from foams, airs, and splodges and
splashes on the plate to the trend for serving
“burnt” things. You’ll find some of each style in
this book. But before you try to reach the
dizzying, restaurant-standard cooking heights
of the amazing cooks who have toiled in the
MasterChef kitchens, you need to know the
basics.
This book is for everybody, from kitchen
novices to truly adventurous and advanced
cooks. It will guide you through the basics: how
to joint a bird, make a custard, or create pasta
dough. It will also equip you with the classic
recipes that need to be in every cook’s
notebook: how to make a proper, fail-safe cake,
simmer a stock, or make a light chocolate
mousse. This book is full of skills, techniques,
and tips you can perfect to become the cook
you want to be. Even if you just want to learn
how to chop an onion well, or perfect the ever-
so-tricky Italian meringue made with sugar
syrup, it’s all here.
Should you aspire to cook dishes from the finals
of MasterChef, there are recipes from many of
the ambitious and creative MasterChef finalists
to inspire your cooking and show you how to
take it to another level. This is where you will
find the open lasagnes, French-style macarons,
and even a couple of airs and foams, if you
fancy that sort of thing. Some of the recipes –
particularly those from the most recent years –
are very elaborate, with many component parts
and advanced techniques that challenge the
most ambitious cooks, but give them a go as
they are all doable.
To be a better cook, the best tip I can give
anyone is that you have to practise: pick a few
recipes, and cook them over and over again.
Like a piece of music, the more you practise,
the better it will be. Or, as a great golfer once
said, “The more I practise, the luckier I get!”
Enjoy and good luck! Practise practise practise.
Gregg Wallace

The most expensive commodity I know of is

knowledge. You either pay somebody clever for
it or you learn expensive lessons through your
own mistakes. Here are two things I wish
someone had told me years ago.
Know your olive oil. Most of us who cook know
we use olive oil for cooking and virgin olive oil
for salad dressings. Even though millions of
bottles are sold I rarely find anybody who
knows what extra virgin and virgin olive oils
are. Both are the first press, only oil with less
than 1 per cent acidity can be called extra
virgin.
Please, please, please use a sharp knife. It is
blunt knives that slip. All my bad cuts come
from blunt knives, not sharp ones.
Now, my background as a greengrocer has
served me well when it comes to knowing my
fresh produce. So here are some lessons for you
from me.
If you want to cook great potato dishes, use the
right spud. For chips you need starchy, for
mash you want floury, for a gratin you should
use waxy. Two decent all-rounders are the
Maris Piper and, my favourite, the King Edward.
And a new potato is only new if you can rub the
skin off with your thumb; if you can’t, it’s just a
salad potato.
Everything else that you will ever need to know
in the kitchen about fruit and veg – and meat,
fish, grains, cakes, and all the rest – is in this
book. From tips for new cooks, such as how to
cut veg, to the high-end stuff, like making
hollandaise sauce, it’s all here.
And lastly, here’s a treasure I’ve gleaned
directly from my work on MasterChef over the
years. Taste. Taste. And taste again. It’s only
through knowing how a food should taste, and
how that flavour and texture changes with
every stage of the cooking process, that you will
develop the skills and refined palate of a great
cook.
You may not be able to use all this knowledge
straight away, so make space for it in that big
brain of yours – and keep this book safe, of
course – for use at a later date. One day, I
promise you, it will all come in handy.
 Bouillabaisse
Originally nothing more than
a humble fisherman’s soup
using the remains of the day’s
catch, this is now a famous
dish. Use the fish bones and
heads and the prawn shells to
make the stock, if you have
time.
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes
COOKING TIME 45 minutes
SERVES 4

4 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, thinly sliced
2 leeks, thinly sliced
1 small fennel bulb, thinly sliced
2–3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
4 tomatoes, skinned, deseeded, and chopped
1 tbsp tomato purée
250ml (8fl oz) dry white wine
1.5 litres (23⁄4 pints) fish stock or chicken stock
pinch of saffron threads
strip of unwaxed orange zest
1 bouquet garni
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1.35kg (3lb) mixed white and oily fish and shellfish, such as red
gurnard, John Dory, monkfish, red mullet, heads and bones
removed, peeled raw prawns, and cleaned mussels
2 tbsp Pernod
8 thin slices of day-old French bread, toasted, to serve
FOR THE ROUILLE
125g (41⁄2oz) mayonnaise
1 bird’s eye chilli, deseeded and roughly chopped
4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1 tbsp tomato purée
1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the
onion, leeks, fennel, and garlic and fry gently, stirring frequently,
for 5 minutes, or until the vegetables are softened but not
coloured. Add the tomatoes, tomato purée, and wine and stir until
blended.

2 Add the stock, saffron, orange zest, and bouquet garni. Season to
taste with salt and pepper, and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat,
partially cover the pan, and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the
soup has reduced slightly, stirring occasionally.

3 To make the rouille, place all ingredients into a blender or food

processor with 1⁄4 tsp salt and process until the mixture is smooth.
Transfer to a bowl, cover with cling film, and chill until required.

4 Just before the liquid finishes simmering, cut the fish into
chunks. Remove the orange zest and bouquet garni from the soup
and add the fish (but not the shellfish). Reduce the heat to low and
let the soup simmer for 5 minutes, then add the shellfish and
simmer for further 2–3 minutes, or until all the fish is cooked
through, the prawns are pink and the mussels have opened. Stir in
the Pernod and season to taste with salt and pepper.
5 To serve, spread each piece of toast with rouille and put 2 slices
in the bottom of each bowl. Ladle the soup on top and serve.

FISH KNOW-HOW: see Bone a round fish through

the stomach
FISH KNOW-HOW: see Bone a round fish from the
back
SHELLFISH KNOW-HOW: see Clean mussels
SAVOURY SAUCES AND STOCKS KNOW-HOW:
see Make fish stock
Bouillabaisse
 Lobster bisque
Rich and undeniably
impressive, this makes a
satisfying meal on its own, or
serve smaller portions before
a light main course.
PREPARATION TIME 45 minutes
COOKING TIME 1 hour 10
minutes
SERVES 4

1 lobster, cooked, about 1kg (21⁄4lb) in weight

50g (13⁄4oz) unsalted butter
1 onion, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
2 celery sticks, finely chopped
1 leek, finely chopped
1⁄ fennel bulb, finely chopped
2
1 bay leaf
1 sprig of tarragon
2 garlic cloves, crushed
75g (21⁄2oz) tomato purée
4 tomatoes, roughly chopped
120ml (4fl oz) Cognac or brandy
100ml (31⁄2fl oz) dry white wine or Vermouth
1.7 litres (3 pints) fish stock
120ml (4fl oz) double cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
pinch of cayenne pepper
juice of 1⁄2 lemon
snipped chives, to garnish
1 Split the lobster in half, twist off the claws and legs, and reserve
the shells. Remove the meat from the body, claws, and legs, chop
into small pieces, and set aside. Crack the shells with the back of a
knife, chop into rough pieces, and set aside.

2 Melt the butter in a large saucepan over a medium heat, add the
vegetables, herbs, and garlic, and cook gently for 10 minutes, or
until softened, stirring occasionally.

3 Add the chopped lobster shells. Stir in the tomato purée,

chopped tomatoes, Cognac, white wine, and fish stock. Bring to the
boil and simmer for 1 hour.
4 Leave to cool slightly, then ladle into a food processor. Process
the soup in short bursts until the shell breaks into very small
pieces. (If you would rather not process the shell pieces, scoop
them out before ladelling the mixture into the food processor.)
5 Strain the soup through a coarse sieve, pushing as much liquid
through as you can. Strain the soup again, this time through a fine
mesh sieve, and return to the heat.

6 Bring to the boil, add the reserved lobster meat and the cream,
season with salt and pepper, and add the cayenne pepper and
lemon juice to taste. Serve in warm bowls, garnished with chives.

SHELLFISH KNOW-HOW: see Clean a live lobster

SAVOURY SAUCES AND STOCKS KNOW-HOW:
see Make fish stock
Lobster bisque
Minestrone
This substantial soup has almost infinite
variations; you can prepare it throughout the
year with whatever vegetables and herbs come
into season, and discover your favourite
combinations.
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes, plus soaking
COOKING TIME 1 hour 45 minutes
SERVES 4–6

100g (31⁄2oz) dried white cannellini beans

2 tbsp olive oil
2 celery sticks, finely chopped
2 carrots, finely chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
400g (14oz) can chopped tomatoes
750ml (11⁄4 pints) chicken stock or vegetable stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper
60g (2oz) small short-cut pasta
4 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
40g (11⁄2oz) Parmesan or Grana Padano cheese, finely grated

1 Put the beans in a large bowl, cover with cold water, and leave to
soak for at least 6 hours, or preferably overnight.
2 Drain the beans, place in a large saucepan, and cover with cold
water. Bring to the boil over a high heat and boil for 10 minutes,
skimming the surface as necessary. Reduce the heat to low,
partially cover, and leave the beans to simmer for 1 hour, or until
just tender. Drain well and set aside.
3 Heat the oil in the rinsed-out pan over a medium heat. Add the
celery, carrots, and onion and fry, stirring occasionally, for 5
minutes or until softened but not browned. Stir in the beans,
chopped tomatoes, and stock, and season to taste with salt and
pepper. Bring to the boil, stirring, then cover and leave to simmer
for 20 minutes.

4 Add the pasta and simmer for a further 10–15 minutes or until
cooked but still firm to the bite. Stir in the parsley and half the
cheese, then adjust the seasoning. Serve hot, sprinkled with the
remaining cheese.

SAVOURY SAUCES AND STOCKS KNOW-HOW:

see Make vegetable stock
Roast tomato soup
It makes such a tremendous difference in
flavour when you roast the tomatoes first.
They become sweet, and the heat brings out
their deliciously deep umami qualities.
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes
COOKING TIME 35 minutes
SERVES 4

8 plum tomatoes, about 675g (11⁄2lb) in total, quartered

1 red onion, cut into 8 wedges
2 garlic cloves, unpeeled
3 tbsp olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 litre (13⁄4 pints) hot vegetable stock
3 tbsp sun-dried tomato paste

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4) and line a large baking

tray with baking parchment. Put the tomatoes, onion, and garlic
cloves on the tray, drizzle with oil, and season well with salt and
pepper. Roast until the vegetables are soft, caramelized, and
slightly browned, removing them from the tray once they are
ready. Allow 10–15 minutes for the garlic, 15–20 minutes for the
onion, and 25 minutes for the tomatoes. Squeeze the roasted garlic
cloves from their skins once they have cooled slightly.
2 Transfer to a blender, add the stock and tomato paste, then whiz
until smooth but still slightly chunky. Season with salt and pepper,
reheat gently, and serve hot.
FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Make gluten-free croutons by roasting
chickpeas with spices to add a delicious
crunch. Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F/Gas
7). Drain a 400g can of chickpeas and pat dry
with kitchen paper. Tip into a bowl and mix
with 1 tbsp olive oil or chilli oil, 1 tsp chilli
flakes, and plenty of sea salt and freshly
ground black pepper. Toss well to coat, spread
out on a baking tray and roast for 25 minutes
or until crisp, stirring halfway. Allow to cool,
then sprinkle a few over each portion of soup,
offering the rest in a bowl on the table.
 Vichyssoise
Despite its French name, this
silky, smooth chilled soup
originates from America. If
you make it during winter,
remember that it is also
wonderful when served hot.
PREPARATION TIME 15
minutes, plus chilling
COOKING TIME 45 minutes
SERVES 4

30g (1oz) unsalted butter

3 large leeks, green ends discarded, finely sliced
2 potatoes, about 175g (6oz) in total, peeled and chopped
1 celery stick, roughly chopped
1.2 litres (2 pints) fresh vegetable stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper
150ml (5fl oz) double cream, plus extra for garnish
2 tbsp snipped chives, to serve
1 Heat the butter in a heavy saucepan over a medium heat and
add the leeks. Press a piece of damp greaseproof paper on top,
cover, and cook, shaking gently from time to time, for 15 minutes,
or until the leeks are softened and golden.

2 Add the potatoes, celery, and stock, and season with salt and
pepper. Bring to the boil, stirring, then cover and simmer for 30
minutes, or until the vegetables are tender.
3 Remove the pan from the heat and leave to cool slightly, then
process in a blender until very smooth, in batches if necessary.
Season to taste with salt and pepper, and allow the soup to cool
completely before stirring in the cream. Chill for at least 3 hours
before serving.

4 To serve, pour into serving bowls. Drizzle a little cream over the
top of each bowl of soup, sprinkle with chives, and season with
pepper.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Transform into a dramatic layered starter or
canapé. At the end of step 1, divide the leeks
between 2 saucepans. In step 2, add 1 potato
to the first saucepan, and 1 orange-fleshed
sweet potato to the second, then follow the
recipe as directed, dividing the remaining
ingredients evenly between the saucepans. To
serve, chill glasses (or shot glasses if using as
a canapé) and add the green-coloured soup to
fill half of each glass. Gently spoon on the
orange-coloured soup to form the top layer.

SAVOURY SAUCES AND STOCKS KNOW-HOW:

see Make vegetable stock
Vichyssoise
 Eggs Benedict
This classic brunch dish is
typically served with a slice of
ham, or with smoked salmon
for Eggs Royale. Homemade
hollandaise sauce adds a
luxurious touch.
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes
COOKING TIME 20 minutes
SERVES 4

vinegar, for poaching

8 large eggs
4 English muffins
butter, for spreading
FOR THE HOLLANDAISE
2 tbsp white wine vinegar
4 egg yolks
115g (4oz) unsalted butter, melted
salt and freshly ground black pepper
juice of 1⁄2 lemon

1 First make the hollandaise sauce. Heat the vinegar in a small

pan and allow to bubble until it reduces by half. Remove from the
heat, add 2 tbsp water, then whisk in the egg yolks one at a time.

2 Return the pan to a very low heat and whisk continuously until
the mixture is thick and light. Remove from the heat and gradually
whisk in the melted butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper,
and stir in the lemon juice.

3 Fill 2 large saucepans with water and a drop of vinegar, then

bring to a gentle boil. Crack the first egg onto a small plate, then
carefully slide into one of the pans. Repeat with 3 more eggs in the
first pan, and the remaining 4 eggs in the second. Allow each egg to
poach for 3–5 minutes, using a slotted spoon to gently scoop the
whites of the eggs over the yolks. Once set, remove the eggs using
the slotted spoon, and drain on kitchen paper.

4 Meanwhile, preheat the grill on its highest setting, split each

muffin in half, and toast both sides.
5 Butter each muffin half and place 2 on each serving plate. Top
each half with a poached egg and spoon the hollandaise sauce over
the top.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Reinvent this brunch classic by adding hot-
smoked salmon under the eggs and using rich
brioche buns (see technique) instead of
muffins. To liven up the hollandaise,
substitute yuzu juice for the lemon juice.

EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see

Poach eggs
SAVOURY SAUCES AND STOCKS KNOW-HOW:
see Make hollandaise
Eggs Benedict
 Cheese soufflés
The most popular savoury
soufflé is a simple cheese
creation such as this. Any
hard cheese can be used, but
choose one with a fairly
robust flavour, such as mature
Cheddar, or try a mixture of
Gruyère and Parmesan.
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes
COOKING TIME 30–35 minutes
SERVES 6

45g (11⁄2oz) butter

45g (11⁄2oz) plain flour
225ml (8fl oz) milk
salt and freshly ground black pepper
125g (41⁄2oz) mature Cheddar cheese, finely grated
1⁄ tsp French mustard
2
5 large eggs, separated
1 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese
1 Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F/Gas 5) and put a baking tray in
the oven. Grease six ramekins.
2 Melt the butter in a small saucepan, stir in the flour until
smooth, and cook over a medium heat for 1 minute. Whisk in the
milk until blended, then bring to the boil, stirring constantly, until
thickened and smooth. Remove the pan from the heat, season to
taste with salt and pepper, and stir in the Cheddar cheese and
mustard.

3 Gradually stir in 4 of the egg yolks into the cheese sauce. The
remaining egg yolk can be saved for another recipe.

4 In a large, clean bowl, whisk all the egg whites together until stiff
peaks form. Stir 1 tbsp of the whisked egg whites into the cheese
mixture to “loosen” it, then gently fold in the rest using a large
metal spoon.
5 Divide the mixture between the ramekins. Place them on the
baking tray and bake for 10 minutes, or until the soufflés are
puffed and golden brown. Serve at once, sprinkled with Parmesan
cheese.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Try making a hot roast tomato–basil sauce to
serve with the soufflés. Roast the tomatoes as
for Roast tomato soup, but blend the mixture
without adding stock or tomato paste. Add a
small handful of basil leaves. Reheat gently
and serve in jugs.

EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see

Whisk egg whites
EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see
Bake a soufflé
Cheese soufflés
Quiche Lorraine
The key to success here is not
to overcook the quiche, but
remove it from the oven while
it still has a slight wobble
when shaken gently.
Overcooked quiche will be
rubbery in texture.
PREPARATION TIME 35
minutes, plus chilling
COOKING TIME 35 minutes
SERVES 4–6
FOR THE PASTRY
225g (8oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting
115g (4oz) unsalted butter, cubed
1 egg yolk
FOR THE FILLING
200g (7oz) bacon lardons
1 onion, finely chopped
75g (21⁄2oz) Gruyère cheese, grated
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
150ml (5fl oz) double cream
150ml (5fl oz) milk
freshly ground black pepper
1 To make the pastry, place the flour and butter in a food
processor and blend until the mixture resembles fine crumbs. Add
the egg yolk and 3–4 tbsp of chilled water, enough to make a
smooth dough. Turn out on a floured surface and knead briefly.
Alternatively, rub the butter into the flour with your fingers until
crumbly, then add the egg yolk and water. Cover and chill for at
least 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F/Gas 5).

2 On a lightly floured surface, roll out the pastry and line a 23cm
(9in) deep flan tin, pressing the dough to the sides. Prick the base of
the pastry and line with greaseproof paper and baking beans. Bake
blind for 12 minutes, then remove the paper and beans, and bake
for a further 10 minutes, or until lightly golden.
3 Meanwhile, heat a large frying pan and dry-fry the lardons for 3–
4 minutes. Add the onion, fry for a further 2–3 minutes, then
spread the onions and bacon over the pastry case. Add the cheese.
4 Whisk together the eggs, cream, milk, and black pepper, and
pour into the pastry case. Place the tin on a baking tray and bake
for 25–30 minutes, or until golden and just set. Allow to set, then
slice and serve while still warm.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Make stunning individual cone-shaped
quiches. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas
4). Cover six ice-cream cones in tin foil, fold 6
filo pastry sheets in half, and wrap 1 folded
sheet around each cone. Brush with melted
unsalted butter and bake for 3 minutes, or
until crisp. Cool on a wire rack. Make a half
quantity of the filling, as directed, then bake
in an ovenproof baking dish for 15 minutes, or
until lightly set. Serve spoonfuls of filling
inside each cone, then add a crisp-fried bacon
rasher to each, so it sticks out of the cone.

DOUGH, PASTRY, AND CAKE KNOW-HOW: see

Blind bake
Quiche Lorraine
Omelette aux fines herbes
Hold your nerve here; as so often with egg-
based dishes, the best omelettes are served
still soft and tender and, if anything, slightly
under-cooked.
PREPARATION TIME 5 minutes
COOKING TIME 6 minutes
SERVES 4

11⁄2 tbsp each chopped chives, flat-leaf parsley, tarragon, and

chervil, mixed together
100g (31⁄2oz) unsalted butter
12 eggs
salt and freshly ground black pepper
a few chive stalks, to garnish

1 Heat an omelette pan or frying pan and melt one-quarter of the

butter.

2 For each omelette, break 3 eggs into a small bowl and beat them
lightly with a fork. Add some seasoning and one-quarter of the
mixed chopped herbs. Pour into the warmed omelette pan. As the
omelette starts to set around the outside, draw the set egg into the
centre and tilt the pan so that the raw egg fills the space. When
almost set, stop stirring, and cook for a further 30 seconds until the
omelette is golden brown underneath, but the top is still creamy.
3 Fold the omelette by tilting the pan and shuffling the omelette
forward – it should roll up like a large cigar. Roll it onto a warm
plate and garnish with a few fresh chive stalks on the side. Repeat
for the remaining 3 omelettes, melting fresh butter before cooking
each one.
Croque monsieur
A wonderful brunch or lunch, with extra
creaminess from the cheese sauce.
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 10 minutes
SERVES 4

400g (14oz) Gruyère cheese

60g (2oz) unsalted butter, plus extra for spreading
2 tbsp plain flour
2 tsp Dijon mustard
150ml (5fl oz) milk
8 slices of white bread
8 thin slices of ham
1 Preheat the grill on its medium setting. Cut 115g (4oz) of the
cheese into thin slices and grate the rest.

2 Melt the butter in a saucepan over a low heat. Remove from the
heat and stir in the flour. Return to the hob and cook for 1 minute.
Remove from the heat again and stir in the mustard and milk.
Return to the hob and cook, stirring until thick and smooth. Stir in
the grated cheese, and set aside until ready to use.

3 Toast 4 of the bread slices under the grill on 1 side only. Turn
over and spread the untoasted sides lightly with butter and top
with the ham and cheese slices. Press the remaining 4 slices of
bread on top and spread with the cheese mixture.
4 Grill until the cheese is bubbling and golden brown. Serve at
once.
Lobster thermidor
This wonderful dish relies on an irresistibly
indulgent wine, Gruyère, and cream sauce,
thickened by reducing it quickly over a high
heat.
PREPARATION TIME 25 minutes
COOKING TIME 20 minutes
SERVES 4

2 cooked lobsters, about 675g (11⁄2lb) each

paprika, to garnish
lemon wedges, to serve
FOR THE SAUCE
30g (1oz) butter
2 shallots, finely chopped
120ml (4fl oz) white wine
120ml (4fl oz) fish stock
150ml (5fl oz) double cream
1⁄ tsp English mustard
2

1 tbsp lemon juice

2 tbsp parsley, chopped
2 tsp tarragon, chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
75g (21⁄2oz) Gruyère cheese, grated

1 Cut the lobsters in half lengthways. Remove the meat from the
claws and tail, along with any coral or meat from the head. Cut the
meat into bite-sized pieces. Clean out the shells and reserve.

2 To prepare the sauce, melt the butter in a small saucepan, add

the shallots, and fry gently until softened but not browned. Add
the wine and boil for 2–3 minutes, or until the liquid is reduced by
half.

3 Add the stock and cream and boil rapidly, stirring, until reduced
and slightly thickened. Stir in the mustard, lemon juice, and herbs,
then season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in half the cheese.
4 Preheat the grill on its highest setting. Add the lobster meat to
the sauce, then divide between the lobster shells. Top with the
remaining cheese.
5 Place the lobsters on a foil-lined grill pan and grill for 2–3
minutes, or until bubbling and golden. Sprinkle with a little paprika
and serve hot with lemon wedges.
 Moules marinières
Mussels have a wonderful
depth of flavour, which needs
only gentle flavouring and this
simple base recipe to reveal
itself. Serve with a crusty
baguette to mop up the
fabulous juices.
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes
COOKING TIME 10 minutes
SERVES 4

60g (2oz) unsalted butter

2 onions, finely chopped
1.8kg (4lb) fresh mussels, cleaned
2 garlic cloves, crushed
600ml (1 pint) dry white wine
4 bay leaves
2 sprigs of thyme
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2–4 tbsp chopped parsley

1 Melt the butter in a large, heavy, lidded saucepan. Add the

onion, and fry gently until softened but not browned. Add the
mussels, garlic, wine, bay leaves, and thyme, and season to taste
with salt and pepper. Cover, bring to the boil, and cook for 5–6
minutes, or until the mussels have opened, shaking the pan
frequently. If you do not have a large enough saucepan for all the
mussels, divide the ingredients between 2 pans instead.
2 Remove the open mussels with a slotted spoon, discarding any
that remain closed. Transfer the mussels to warmed bowls, cover,
and keep warm.

3 Strain the liquid into a pan and bring to the boil. Season to taste
with pepper, add the parsley, pour it over the mussels, and serve at
once.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Switch up the flavours to make spicy
Vietnamese-style mussels. Follow the recipe
as directed, but substitute shallots and
shredded lime leaves for the onions, bay
leaves, and thyme. Add 1 finely chopped
lemongrass stalk, 1 finely chopped bird’s eye
chilli, and 1 thumb of fresh root ginger, peeled
and finely chopped. Omit the wine, and
instead add the juice of 1 lime, 2 tbsp soy
sauce and 1 tsp fish sauce. Substitute the
parsley for coriander.

SHELLFISH KNOW-HOW: see Clean mussels

Moules marinières
 Fisherman’s pie
There are few one-pot meals
more comforting than this.
The fish and shellfish can
easily be varied depending on
what is readily available –
check sustainable fishing lists
online for up-to-date buying
advice and inspiration.
PREPARATION TIME 25 minutes
COOKING TIME 50 minutes–1
hour
SERVES 4

500g (1lb 2oz) floury potatoes, such as King Edward or Maris Piper,
peeled and cut into chunks
salt and freshly ground black pepper
450ml (15fl oz) milk
100g (31⁄2oz) unsalted butter, plus extra for topping
300g (10oz) raw prawns, shells on
400g (14oz) fresh haddock fillets
200g (7oz) undyed smoked haddock fillets
4 black peppercorns, lightly crushed
1 bay leaf
several sprigs of flat-leaf parsley
4 tbsp plain flour
squeeze of lemon juice
2 tbsp double cream
4 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
pinch of cayenne pepper

1 Place the potatoes in a large saucepan with cold salted water.

Boil for 10–15 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender when
pierced with a knife; drain well. Mash until smooth, then beat in
150ml (5fl oz) of the milk and 60g (2oz) of the butter. Season to
taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.

2 Meanwhile, remove the prawn heads and shells, reserving the

shells. Devein the prawns and set aside.
3 Put the fresh and smoked haddock in a frying pan with the
remaining milk. Gently simmer for 10 minutes, or until the fish
flakes easily. Use a slotted spoon to remove the fish from the pan
and set aside.

4 Add the prawn shells, peppercorns, bay leaf, and parsley to the
pan and simmer over a very low heat for 10 minutes.

5 Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F/Gas 7). Melt the

remaining butter in a saucepan over a medium heat. Sprinkle in
the flour and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Remove from the heat.
Strain the milk and gradually stir into the butter mixture. Return
to the heat and simmer until the sauce thickens, stirring all the
time. Add the lemon juice and cream, and season to taste with salt
and pepper. Stir through the chopped parsley, cayenne, and
prawns, and flake in the fish, discarding skin and any bones.

6 Spoon the fish mixture into the pie dish, top with the mashed
potatoes, and dot with a little extra butter. Place the dish on a
baking tray and bake for 20–25 minutes, or until the topping is
golden and the filling is hot when you test the centre with a knife.
Remove the pie from the oven and serve immediately.

FISH KNOW-HOW: see Bone a round fish through

the stomach
FISH KNOW-HOW: see Bone a round fish from the
back
FISH KNOW-HOW: see Skin a fillet
SHELLFISH KNOW-HOW: see Prepare prawns
Fisherman’s pie
Salade niçoise
A modern tweak on the southern French
original, using seared tuna steaks. If you
prefer, use good-quality tuna canned in olive
oil, drained and broken into flakes.
PREPARATION TIME 25 minutes
COOKING TIME 10 minutes
SERVES 4

12 baby new potatoes, halved

salt and freshly ground black pepper
150g (51⁄2oz) green beans, trimmed
4 x 150g (51⁄2oz) tuna steaks
150ml (5fl oz) extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing
8 anchovy fillets in olive oil, drained
1 red onion, finely sliced
250g (9oz) plum tomatoes, quartered lengthways
12 black olives
2 Romaine lettuce hearts, trimmed and torn into pieces
8–10 basil leaves
4 eggs, hard-boiled
FOR THE VINAIGRETTE
2 tsp Dijon mustard
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
3 tbsp white wine vinegar
juice of 1⁄2 lemon

1 Put the potatoes in a saucepan of lightly salted water, bring to the boil and boil
for 6 minutes. Add the beans and boil for a further 3–4 minutes, or until just
tender. Drain and quickly place the vegetables into a bowl of ice water.
2 Preheat a ridged griddle pan over a medium-high heat. Brush the tuna steaks
with 1–2 tbsp olive oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Sear the tuna
steaks for 2 minutes on each side. The centres will still be slightly pink. Set the
tuna aside. Drain the potatoes and beans and set aside.
3 Combine the vinaigrette ingredients in a bowl. Whisk together and season to
taste with salt and pepper.
4 Place the potatoes, green beans, anchovies, onion, tomatoes, olives, lettuce,
and basil in a large bowl. Drizzle with the vinaigrette and gently toss.
5 Divide the salad between 4 plates. Peel and quarter each egg and add them to
the plates. Cut the tuna steaks in half and arrange two halves on top of each
salad.

VEGETABLES KNOW-HOW: see Trim, wash, and

dry salad leaves
EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see
Soft- and hard-boil eggs
Salmon fishcakes
These have a sophisticated touch of heat from
horseradish and spring onions, and great
aromatics from dill and lemon.
PREPARATION TIME 30 minutes, plus cooling
and chilling
COOKING TIME 30 minutes
SERVES 6

450g (1lb) potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

900g (2lb) salmon fillets, skinned and boned
1 onion, halved
2–3 bay leaves
1 tsp black peppercorns
4 spring onions, finely chopped
2 tbsp horseradish cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
juice and zest of 1 unwaxed lemon
large handful of dill, chopped
pinch of cayenne pepper
FOR THE COATING
225g (8oz) fresh breadcrumbs
2 tbsp snipped chives (optional)
2 tbsp chopped parsley (optional)
plain flour, for coating
2 eggs, lightly beaten
sunflower oil, for frying

1 Place the potatoes in a saucepan of cold water and boil for 20

minutes, or until very tender. Drain, mash, and set aside.

2 Place the salmon in cold water with the onion, bay leaves, and
peppercorns. Bring to the boil, simmer for 2 minutes, then turn off
the heat and leave to cool for 20 minutes. Drain well, discarding
the cooking liquid, and cool.

3 Flake the salmon into a large bowl. Fold in the cooled mashed
potatoes and all the other fishcake ingredients. Mix well and shape
into 12 round cakes. Ideally, chill for 1 hour before coating.

4 Mix the breadcrumbs with the herbs, if using. Put the flour, eggs,
and breadcrumbs into separate shallow bowls. Coat the first
fishcake in flour and then inthe egg. Finally, roll it in the
breadcrumbs so that it is completely coated. Repeat for the
remaining fishcakes. Return to the fridge to chill for a further 30
minutes, if possible.

5 Heat the sunflower oil in a frying pan and fry the fishcakes for 3–
4 minutes on each side, or until crisp and hot through. Drain on
kitchen paper and serve while hot.

FISH KNOW-HOW: see Bone a round fish through

the stomach
FISH KNOW-HOW: see Bone a round fish from the
back
FISH KNOW-HOW: see Skin a fillet
 Sea bass in a salt crust
This does not taste overly
salty, just beautifully well-
seasoned, and retains all its
juices within the crust. Serve
with garlic mayonnaise and
baby new potatoes.
PREPARATION TIME 5 minutes
COOKING TIME 22–25 minutes
SERVES 4

1 whole sea bass, about 1.3–2kg (3–41⁄2lb), trimmed and gutted, but
not scaled
1kg (2.2lb) coarse sea salt
1–2 egg whites
splash of water

1 Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F/Gas 7). Rinse the fish inside and
out and pat dry with kitchen paper. Spread a layer of salt onto a
large piece of foil on a baking tray. Lay the fish on top. Moisten the
remaining salt with the egg whites and a splash of water if
necessary. Pack this mixture on the fish to completely encase it.

2 Bake in the oven for 22–25 minutes. Lift the fish onto a serving
dish. Take to the table and carefully chip off any remaining salt
crust. Using clean utensils, peel away the skin and serve the fish
straight from the bone.

FISH KNOW-HOW: see Gut a fish through the

stomach
Sea bass in a salt crust
Scallops with pancetta
Searing scallops well without over-cooking
them is an essential skill in a cook’s armoury.
The combination of seafood with pork is an
Iberian favourite and a truly successful
marriage.
PREPARATION TIME 5 minutes
COOKING TIME 10 minutes
SERVES 4

a knob of butter
11⁄2 tbsp olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
12 fresh king or queen scallops
150g (51⁄2oz) pancetta, cubed

1 Heat a non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add the

butter and 1 tbsp of olive oil.

2 Season the scallops and add to the pan. Sear for 1–2 minutes on
one side until golden, then turn over and cook on the other side for
1–2 minutes more, turning the first scallop that went into the pan
first and quickly working your way to the last one. Remove from
the pan with a slotted spoon, and set aside to keep warm.

3 Add the remaining olive oil to the same pan, tip in the pancetta,
and cook for 5–8 minutes until crispy. When cooked, tip over the
scallops to serve, along with any juices from the pan. Serve
immediately.
SHELLFISH KNOW-HOW: see Prepare scallops
ALL ABOUT
ROAST BEEF
Rich, hearty, and, if cooked correctly, melt-
in-the-mouth, roast beef is a true classic.
 Roast rib of beef
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes
COOKING TIME 1 hour
SERVES 4, PLUS LEFTOVERS

2.25kg (5lb) rib of beef, bone in (use 2 ribs)

olive oil, to coat
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1–2 tbsp wholegrain mustard

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Rub the beef with olive
oil and season with salt and black pepper.

2 Sit the beef in a roasting tin with the bones on the underside,
and rub the mustard over the fatty area. Roast in the oven for
about 15 minutes until it begins to brown, then reduce the oven
temperature to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Roast for a further 1 hour, or
until cooked to your liking (see Beef roasting chart).

3 Remove the beef from the oven and leave to rest in a warm place
for about 20 minutes. Slice and serve with crispy roast potatoes,
Yorkshire puddings, horseradish sauce, and seasonal vegetables of
your choice. Remember to save your beef bones for making stock.
Roast rib of beef
Beef essentials
Use this chart to identify the best beef cuts for
roasting, and how long to cook each for the
perfect result.
Beef roasting chart
CUT DESCRIPTION ROAST
Rump/popeseye From the top of the leg, this Rump joint: 190°C (375°F/Gas
has a coarser grain than 5). 20 min per 450g (1lb) plus
sirloin but nevertheless yields 20 min for rare; 25 min per
a good roasting joint. Rump 450g (1lb) plus 25 min for
steak is preferred by many to medium; 30 min per 450g
sirloin for its fat content. (1lb) plus 30 min for well-
done.

Topside/top rump Boneless, less expensive, and Roast topside joint as rump
leaner than sirloin but still joint.
good for roasting and
grilling/frying. When sliced
very thinly it is called minute
steak.

Sirloin Tender and marbled with fat, Sirloin joint bone-in: Preheat
this yields one of the most oven to 230°C (450°F/Gas 8).
popular steaks and the best Roast for 25 min. Reduce heat
roasting joint of beef on the to 190°C (375°F/Gas 5), then
bone, with a covering of fat. roast 12–15 min per 450g (1lb)
Without the bone, this joint for rare; 20 min per 450g (1lb)
cooks a little quicker. for medium; 25 min per 450g
(1lb) for well-done. Rest 20–30
min. Boneless sirloin joint:
Preheat oven to 190°C
(375°F/Gas 5). Roast 20 min
per 450g (1lb) plus 20 min for
rare; 25 min per 450g (1lb)
plus 25 min for medium; 30
min per 450g (1lb) plus 30 min
for well-done. Rest 20–30 min.

Fillet Extremely tender, but can be Whole fillet, Châteaubriand,

very lean. The whole fillet, and fillet tail: Preheat oven to
the centre portion called 230°C (450°F/Gas 8). Brown
Châteaubriand, and the meat in hot oil in a frying
tapering end or tail are pan, then place in oven. Roast
usually roasted but can also for 10–12 min per 450g (1lb)
be braised. Steaks are often for rare; 12–15 min per 450g
cut thicker, so adjust cooking (1lb) for medium; 14–16 min
times. per 450g (1lb) for well-done.
Rest 10 min.

Ribeye The trimmed main muscle Roast ribeye joint as rump

from the forerib yields a good joint.
marbled joint and a tender
 steak (ribeye/entrecôte).

Brisket The element of fat makes it a Brisket joint: Preheat oven to

good braising joint. Also good 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Pot-roast
for curing. Slices can be fried for 30–40 min per 450g (lb)
but must be served pink or plus 30–40 min.
they will toughen.

Forerib From the shoulder end of the Roast forerib joint as bone-in
sirloin, this is a less sirloin joint.
expensive, but excellent
bone-in joint for roasting and
braising.

Silverside For braising, this lean joint Not recommended.

needs moisture to prevent it
from drying out. Slices are
suitable for quick cooking
only if served pink;
sometimes sliced thinly into
minute steaks.

T-bone steak A large, tender cut, including Not recommended.

the sirloin and fillet on either
side of the bone.

Flank/skirt Has long fibres and Not recommended.

connective tissue so needs
either slow cooking or quick
frying. Cut across the grain. If
flash-fried it must be served
very pink or it will toughen.

Thick flank and thin These cuts can be rolled into Not recommended.
a joint, sliced, or diced for
flank braising and stewing, or
minced.

Rib/short rib/runner Chunks of rib bone with meat Not recommended.

and fat attached. Stew to
make a hearty, rustic dish.

Chuck/blade With a variety of marbling Not recommended.

and connective tissue, these
shoulder cuts are superb for
braising, stewing, and
mincing.
Maximize flavour

1 When preparing beef for roasting, remove the meat from the
refrigerator in advance to allow it to come to room temperature.
Preheat the oven. Brush the meat with oil and scatter over fresh
herbs, such as thyme or rosemary. Alternatively, you could make
multiple cuts into the fat and stick slivers of garlic and herbs
inside. Position the meat, rib-side down, in a roasting tin and place
in the oven.
2 After 20 minutes, reduce the oven temperature (see chart), then
continue roasting for the calculated amount of time (about 2 hours
or more, depending on the size), basting occasionally to keep the
meat moist and flavourful.
Beef essentials
It’s important to leave your meat to rest – and
you can use the resting time to perfect the
classic roast beef trimmings.
Test and rest
The most accurate way to test that your roast is done is by
inserting a meat thermometer (50°C/120°F for medium rare). Before
carving, leave the roast to stand for 15–30 minutes, covered with
kitchen foil. Letting the meat rest after roasting allows the muscles
to relax, so the juices are retained within the meat and carving is
easier. The meat will not go cold during this time – as long as it is
covered and not cut into, it will stay hot inside. This leaves plenty
of time for you to turn your attention to the all-important
trimmings.
 Yorkshire puddings
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes
COOKING TIME 25–35 minutes
SERVES 6

125g (41⁄2oz) plain flour

pinch of salt
2 eggs
300ml (10fl oz) milk
1–2 tbsp sunflower oil or corn oil

1 Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F/Gas 7). Sift the flour into a bowl
and add the salt. Make a well, pour in the eggs and a little milk. Stir
the mixture, adding the flour gradually, then the remaining milk.
Whisk with a balloon whisk, then refrigerate for 30 minutes.

2 Add a little oil to each hole of the bun tin and put in the oven for
5 minutes. Remove, then pour in the batter. Cook for 20–30
minutes, until risen and crisp.
Yorkshire puddings
 Crispy roast potatoes
PREPARATION TIME 25 minutes
COOKING TIME 40–55 minutes
SERVES 4

900g (2lb) floury potatoes, such as Maris Piper, peeled and

quartered
sea salt
1 tbsp plain flour
4 tsp olive oil

1 Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F/Gas 7). Put the potatoes in a

pan of salted water, boil then “nearly” cook over a medium heat for
10–15 minutes. Drain, then return to the pan.
2 Add the flour, put the lid on, and shake the pan. Put the oil in a
large roasting tin, and pop it in the oven until hot. Remove from
the oven and add the potatoes one by one, turning each in the oil.
Add the salt and return to the oven for 30–40 minutes, until golden.
Crispy roast potatoes
 Horseradish sauce
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes
MAKES 250ML (8FL OZ)

75g (21⁄2oz) fresh horseradish, grated

1 tsp English mustard
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
1 tsp caster sugar
juice of 1⁄2 lemon
150ml (5fl oz) double cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Put all the ingredients in a large bowl and whisk to a soft peak
consistency by hand, or with an electric hand whisk. Season to
taste with salt and pepper.
2 Spoon into a serving bowl and chill until you are ready to serve.
Horseradish sauce
Beef Stroganoff
This is a rich dish, so serve it on a bed of plain
rice, or buttered noodles, with a crisp green
salad.
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 25 minutes
SERVES 4

675g (11⁄2lb) fillet, rump, or sirloin steak, trimmed

3 tbsp plain flour
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp paprika, plus extra for sprinkling
60g (2oz) unsalted butter or 4 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, thinly sliced
225g (8oz) chestnut mushrooms, sliced
300ml (10fl oz) soured cream or crème fraîche
1 tbsp French mustard
lemon juice

1 Thinly slice the steak into 5cm (2in) strips. Season the flour with
salt, pepper, and paprika, then coat the beef strips in the flour.

2 Heat half the butter or oil in a deep frying pan. Add the onion
and fry over a low heat for 8–10 minutes, or until soft and golden.
Add the mushrooms and continue to fry for a few minutes, or until
the mushrooms are just soft.
3 Remove the onions and mushrooms and keep warm. Increase
the heat and, when the pan is hot, add the remaining butter or oil,
put in the beef strips, and fry briskly, stirring, for 3–4 minutes.
4 Return the onions and mushrooms to the pan and cook, stirring,
for 1 minute.
5 Reduce the heat, stir in the cream and mustard, and cook gently
for 1 minute; do not allow the cream to come to the boil.

6 Season with salt and pepper, then add lemon juice to taste. Serve
immediately.
Châteaubriand with béarnaise
A traditional dish that cannot be bettered.
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 20 minutes
SERVES 2

450g (1lb) Châteaubriand (beef fillet, centre cut)

salt and freshly ground black pepper
50g (13⁄4oz) butter
2 tbsp olive oil
FOR THE BÉARNAISE SAUCE
100ml (3½fl oz) white wine
2 tbsp white wine vinegar
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 tbsp chopped tarragon
2 egg yolks
100g (31⁄2oz) unsalted butter, cubed

1 Preheat the oven to 230°C (450°F/Gas 8). Make the béarnaise

sauce: combine the wine, vinegar, shallot, and half of the tarragon
in a small pan and boil until reduced to 2 tbsp. Pour this into a
heatproof bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water. Stir the
egg yolks into the mixture one at a time. Continue to stir
constantly as you gradually add the butter, allowing one piece to
melt before adding the next, until the sauce thickens. If the sauce
curdles, beat in a few drops of water. As soon as all the butter has
been incorporated, remove the sauce from the heat and strain. Add
the remaining tarragon and season with salt and pepper. Keep
warm.

2 Season the beef with black pepper. Heat the butter and oil in a
heavy frying pan. When the butter stops foaming, add the beef,
and brown well on all sides.
3 Transfer to the oven and roast for 10–12 minutes. Remove from
the oven and allow to rest in a warm place for 8–10 minutes (for
medium-rare). If preferred, leave it to rest for longer (up to 20
minutes).

4 Slice the beef into rounds and serve with the warm béarnaise
sauce.
Steak au poivre
Use black peppercorns for more warmth, or
green for a sharper note.
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes
COOKING TIME 12 minutes
SERVES 4

4 sirloin or fillet steaks, 225g (8oz) each

1⁄ tsp mustard powder
2

1–2 tsp black or pickled green peppercorns, crushed

2 tbsp sunflower oil
4 tbsp sherry or brandy
150ml (5fl oz) crème fraîche

1 If using fillet steak, flatten slightly with a meat mallet or rolling

pin. Sprinkle the steaks with the mustard, then press the
peppercorns firmly onto both sides.

2 Heat the oil in a frying pan over a high heat, and fry the steaks
for 2–3 minutes on each side for rare, 4 minutes for medium, and
5–6 minutes for well done. Remove from the pan, wrap in foil and
leave to rest in a warm place.
3 Stir the sherry into the pan juices, add the crème fraîche, and
simmer gently, stirring, for 2–3 minutes, or until just reduced.
Serve the steaks with the sauce.

MEAT KNOW-HOW: see Cook steaks to perfection

 Boeuf bourguignon
Make sure the beef is not cut
too small here, as large pieces
give the best, juiciest result.
Ideally, ask a butcher to cut it
for you, or buy the meat in
one piece and cut it yourself,
as pre-cut packages of
braising steak are often in
much smaller pieces.
PREPARATION TIME 25 minutes
COOKING TIME 2 hours 30
minutes
SERVES 4

175g (6oz) streaky bacon rashers, chopped

1–2 tbsp olive oil
900g (2lb) lean braising steak, cut into 4cm (11⁄2in) cubes
12 small shallots
1 tbsp plain flour
300ml (10fl oz) beaujolais, or other red wine
300ml (10fl oz) beef stock
115g (4oz) button mushrooms
1 bay leaf
1 tsp dried herbes de Provence
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tbsp chopped parsley, to garnish
mashed potatoes, to serve
1 Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F/Gas 3). Fry the bacon in a non-
stick frying pan until lightly browned. Drain on kitchen paper and
transfer to a casserole.
2 Depending on how much fat is left from the bacon, add a little
oil to the pan if necessary so that you have about 2–3 tbsp. Fry the
beef in batches over a high heat, transferring to the casserole as
they brown.
3 Reduce the heat to medium and fry the shallots. Transfer to the
casserole with a slotted spoon and stir the flour into the remaining
fat in the frying pan. If the pan is quite dry, mix the flour with a
little of the wine or stock. Pour the wine and stock into the frying
pan and bring to the boil, stirring constantly until smooth.

4 Add the mushrooms, bay leaf, and dried herbs. Season to taste
with salt and pepper and pour the contents of the pan over the
meat and shallots in the casserole. Cover and cook in the oven for
2 hours, or until the meat is very tender.

5 Garnish with chopped parsley and serve with a side of mashed

potatoes.

SAVOURY SAUCES AND STOCKS KNOW-HOW:

see Make beef stock
Boeuf bourguignon
Steak and kidney pie
A traditional pie that deserves a revival. Serve
it with English mustard, fluffy parsnip and
potato mash, and lightly steamed shredded
greens.
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes
COOKING TIME 2 hours 15 minutes
SERVES 4

3 tbsp plain flour, plus extra for dusting

salt and freshly ground black pepper
500g (1lb 2oz) lean braising steak, cut into 2cm (3⁄4in) pieces
175g (6oz) ox kidney, trimmed and diced
3 tbsp sunflower oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 large carrot, chopped
115g (4oz) button mushrooms, halved
350ml (12fl oz) beef stock
1 bay leaf
1⁄ tsp dried thyme
2
1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
1 tbsp dark soy sauce
350g (12oz) rough puff pastry
lightly beaten egg, to glaze
1 Season the flour well with salt and pepper. Toss the steak and
kidney in the flour, shaking off any excess.
2 Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a large non-stick frying pan and fry the
steak and kidney in batches over a high heat until browned on all
sides. Transfer the meat to a large saucepan.
3 Add the remaining oil to the frying pan, and fry the onion and
carrot over a medium heat for 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and
cook for 3–4 minutes, or until beginning to brown, stirring
frequently.

4 Transfer the fried vegetables to the saucepan along with the

stock, bay leaf, thyme, Worcestershire sauce, and soy sauce. Bring
to the boil, reduce the heat, cover with the lid, and simmer gently
for 11⁄2 hours, or until the meat is tender.

5 Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meat and vegetables to a 1.7

litre (3 pint) pie dish. Add enough gravy to cover, reserving the
remainder. Leave to cool.

6 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Roll out the pastry on a
lightly floured surface to 5cm (2in) larger all round than the dish.
Cut a 2cm (3⁄4in) strip from around the pastry, brush the rim of the
dish with water, and place the strip on the rim. Brush the strip
with water. Place the pastry over the dish and press the edges
down to seal against the pastry strip below. Trim and knock up the
edge with the back of a knife, then crimp all round. Make a hole in
the middle for steam to escape. Make leaves out of the pastry
trimmings and use to decorate.

7 Brush the pastry with beaten egg. Place the pie on a baking tray
and bake for 25 minutes, or until the pastry is puffed and dark
golden. Serve with the remaining gravy reheated and offered
separately.

DOUGH, PASTRY, AND CAKE KNOW-HOW: see

Rough puff pastry
DOUGH, PASTRY, AND CAKE KNOW-HOW: see
Roll out puff pastry
DOUGH, PASTRY, AND CAKE KNOW-HOW: see
Trim and decorate pastry
Osso buco
This classic, rich veal stew from Milan is
flavoured with garlic and salty anchovies, and
is traditionally served with Risotto alla
milanese.
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 1 hour 45 minutes
SERVES 4

3 tbsp plain flour

salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 thick veal osso buco slices (from shank)
60g (2oz) unsalted butter
4 tbsp olive oil
4 garlic cloves, chopped
1⁄ onion, chopped
2

4 tbsp tomato purée

about 120ml (4fl oz) beef stock or water
4 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 anchovy fillets in oil, drained and chopped
grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon

1 Season the flour with salt and pepper, then roll the veal in the
flour and shake off any excess.

2 Melt the butter with the oil in a large flameproof casserole. Add
the veal, fry for 5 minutes, or until browned on all sides. Remove
and set aside. Add the garlic and onion to the casserole and fry
gently, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes, or until softened but
not browned.
3 Stir in the tomato purée, stock or water, and salt and pepper to
taste, and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover the
casserole and simmer for 11⁄2 hours, or until the veal is tender.
Check as it cooks and add more liquid, if necessary. The gravy
should be thick but not stiff.

4 To serve, combine the parsley, drained anchovy fillets, and

lemon zest in a bowl. Stir the mixture into the casserole and serve
immediately.

VEGETABLES KNOW-HOW: see Peel and chop

garlic
ALL ABOUT
ROAST LAMB
Perfect this Sunday lunch favourite by
adding lots of flavour with punchy garlic and
fragrant rosemary.
 Roast leg of lamb
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 1 hour 45
minutes
SERVES 6, PLUS LEFTOVERS

2kg (41⁄2lb) leg of lamb

4 garlic cloves, peeled and halved
handful of fresh rosemary sprigs
salt and freshly ground black pepper
600ml (1 pint) hot vegetable stock
1 tsp redcurrant jelly

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Spike the lamb leg
evenly all over with the point of a sharp knife, then stuff the garlic
cloves and small sprigs of rosemary into the holes. Season the
lamb all over with salt and black pepper (see Maximize flavour).

2 Sit the leg of lamb in a roasting tin, and roast in the oven for
about 15 minutes, until it begins to brown. Reduce the oven
temperature to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4), and continue to roast for a
further 1 hour (for rare), basting it with its juices halfway through
the cooking time; allow 11⁄2 hours for well done. Remove the lamb
to a large plate, cover with foil, and leave to rest in a warm place
for 15 minutes while you make the gravy.

3 To make the gravy, tilt the roasting tin at a slight angle, and
skim off any fat. Sit the tin over a high heat on the hob or stovetop.
Add the stock and redcurrant jelly, and bring to the boil, scraping
up any bits from the bottom of the tin with a wooden spoon.
Reduce the heat slightly, and simmer, stirring all the time, for 5–8
minutes. Taste, and season if needed. Carve at the table, and serve
with roast or creamy mashed potato, fresh mint sauce, and
seasonal vegetables.
Roast leg of lamb
Lamb essentials
Use this chart to identify the best lamb cuts for
roasting, and how long to cook each. Then
perfect the classic accompaniment: mint
sauce.
Lamb roasting chart
CUT DESCRIPTION ROAST
Leg On the bone or boned and Leg steaks and chops
rolled, the hind leg is a prime (2.5cm/1in thick): Preheat
roasting cut. Half leg joints oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6).
are either fillet (rump) end or Brush meat with butter or oil
shank end. Can be boned and and roast for 30–45 min. Leg
butterflied for barbecuing. joint, bone-in or boneless:
Tender steaks and chops roast for 25–30 min per 450g
(gigot chops) are cut from the (1lb), then rest 5 min per 450g
leg or chump (rump). Diced (1lb).
boneless leg meat is suitable
for kebabs and stews.

Saddle A prime bone-in roasting Roast saddle as leg joint.

joint from the back of the
lamb, consisting of both loins
joined together. The fillet/filet
mignon is a tiny tender
muscle underneath the
backbone, cooked whole.

Loin The most tender muscle Roast loin and Barnsley chops
above the backbone. Joints as leg steaks and chops. Not
can be left on the bone or recommended for butterfly
boned and rolled. Loin chops steaks. Loin joint: Preheat
include the loin eye; double oven to 220°C (425°F/Gas 7).
loin chops include the fillet Brown joint on all sides, then
and sometimes kidney. roast for 8–10 min; rest for 5–
Barnsley chops, sliced 10 min.
through the whole loin,
include the loin eye and fillet
on either side of backbone.
Butterfly/Valentine steaks are
nearly sliced through and
opened out to form thin,
heart shapes.
Noisettes/medallions are
small, round loin steaks.

Best end of neck From the fore end of the loin, Roast neck fillet and cutlets
best end gives cutlets when as leg steaks and chops. Roast
sliced through the bone. The rack of lamb as loin joint.
neck fillet makes a good Roast crown roast, guard of
mini-roast. When trimmed of honour, and best end joints
fat, and the chine bone is as leg joint.
removed, best end becomes a
 rack. If the rib ends are
exposed it is called a French
rack. Two racks leaning
together form a guard of
honour; two formed into a
circle and stuffed make a
crown roast.

Shoulder May be the whole shoulder, Shoulder joint, bone-in or

or halved into blade end or boneless: Preheat oven to
knuckle end, and bone-in or 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Roast for
boned and rolled, sometimes 20–30 min per 450g (1lb) plus
with stuffing. Cut into chops 30 min. Rest for 30 min.
or steaks, on or off the bone,
and into boneless dice, which
can be quite fatty.

Shank A tasty cut from the end of Not recommended.

the fore and back legs
needing long, slow cooking.
Back leg shanks are the
plumpest.

Breast A cheaper cut from under the Not recommended.

ribs. If boned, good for
stuffing and rolling.

Flank Tougher cut suitable for Not recommended.

stuffing and slow cooking, or
for mincing.

Scrag end Slices of neck on the bone; Not recommended.

sometimes boned and diced.
Maximize flavour

1 Using a sharp knife, make deep slits over the joint 5cm (2in)
apart. Press halved garlic cloves deep into the holes with some
rosemary tips. Brush the meat with oil or melted butter, and
season with black pepper and salt.

2 Place the lamb in the roasting tin in the middle of the oven and
roast as per instructions (see chart). Remove from the hot oven,
cover with foil, and let rest for 20–30 minutes.
 Mint sauce
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes
SERVES 4

handful of mint leaves, finely chopped

1–2 tsp sugar
1 tbsp white wine vinegar

1 Put the mint in a serving bowl and add the sugar and vinegar. Set
aside to infuse for 10 minutes.

2 Stir well to make sure the sugar has dissolved, then taste and
adjust the seasoning, adding more sugar or vinegar, if needed.
Mint sauce
 Shepherd’s pie
Traditionally, this recipe
would be cooked on Monday
with meat left over from a
Sunday roast. This version is
topped with a leek-enhanced
mash.
PREPARATION TIME 30 minutes
COOKING TIME 30 minutes
SERVES 4–6

675g (11⁄2lb) raw minced lamb or precooked leftover lamb, finely

chopped
2 tbsp sunflower oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 carrots, sliced
90ml (3fl oz) dry red wine
2 tbsp plain flour
250ml (8fl oz) lamb stock or gravy
1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tbsp rosemary, finely chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE POTATO AND LEEK MASH
900g (2lb) floury potatoes, such as King Edward, peeled and cut
into large chunks
2 large leeks, cut in half lengthways, sliced
60g (2oz) unsalted butter
150ml (5fl oz) milk, warmed
1 To make the leek mash, place the potato chunks in a large
saucepan, cover with water, and bring to the boil. Boil for 12
minutes, then add the leeks, and cook for a further 5 minutes, or
until the vegetables are tender, and drain.

2 Mash the potatoes and leeks and return them to a low heat. Stir
in the butter and milk and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6).

3 To make the filling, if using minced lamb, fry it in a large frying

pan over a medium-high heat, stirring, for 5 minutes, or until
lightly browned and all the grains are separate. Pour off the fat,
remove the meat from the pan, and set aside.

4 In the same pan, heat the oil. Fry the onion and garlic, stirring
for 3–5 minutes, or until softened, then add the carrots. Add the
cooked mince or chopped precooked lamb to the pan and stir
together.

5 Add the wine, increase the heat to high, and cook for 2–3
minutes. Stir in the flour once the wine has evaporated. Stir in the
stock, Worcestershire sauce, parsley, and rosemary, and season to
taste with salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat
to low, and simmer for 5 minutes.

6 Spoon the filling into a large ovenproof dish and top with the
potato and leek mash. Place the dish on a baking tray and bake for
30 minutes, or until the mash is golden. Leave to rest for 5
minutes, then serve straight from the dish.
VEGETABLES KNOW-HOW: see Mash potatoes
Shepherd’s pie
 Rack of lamb with
flageolet beans and
herbs
This cut of lamb is expensive,
and so deserves to be cooked
well. This recipe will produce
tender, juicy, and flavoursome
cutlets. Serve with new
potatoes.
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 40 minutes
SERVES 4

1 rack of lamb with 8 cutlets

1⁄ tbsp olive oil
2

a few rosemary sprigs, leaves finely chopped

salt and freshly ground black pepper
150ml (5fl oz) hot vegetable stock
1 tsp redcurrant jelly
400g can flageolet beans, drained
handful of mint leaves, finely chopped
1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Smother the lamb with
the oil, sprinkle over the rosemary, and season well with salt and
pepper. Sit the rack in a roasting tin and put in the oven to roast
for 40 minutes for pink lamb, or longer if you like your meat well
done.
2 Remove the lamb from the roasting tin and keep warm, covered
with foil, while you prepare the beans. Place the tin on the hob
over a medium to high heat, add the stock, and bring to the boil.
Reduce to a simmer, stir in the redcurrant jelly until dissolved,
then stir through the flageolet beans and simmer gently for 5
minutes. Remove from the heat and stir through the mint.

3 Slice the rack into 8 cutlets and serve with the beans.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Impart an extra punch of flavour to the lamb
with a panko-herb crust. Combine 75g (21⁄2oz)
panko breadcrumbs with 6 tbsp mixed fresh
herbs (such as thyme, parsley, rosemary, or
mint). Remove the lamb from the oven 10
minutes into the cooking time, coat with a
little extra olive oil, press the panko-herb
mixture on to the surface of the meat, then
return it to the oven for another 30 minutes.
Just before serving, process the bean mixture
in a food processor to create a smooth
flageolet purée to contrast with the crunch of
the crusted lamb.
Rack of lamb with flageolet beans and herbs
ALL ABOUT
ROAST PORK
Shards of super-crisp crackling giving way to
succulent, tender meat is roast pork
perfection.
 Roast pork loin
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes
COOKING TIME 1 hour 45
minutes
SERVES 6, PLUS LEFTOVERS

2kg (41⁄2lb) boneless pork loin, skin scored

4 garlic cloves, grated or finely chopped
handful of black olives, pitted and finely chopped
pinch of dried oregano
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
olive oil, to coat

1 Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F/Gas 7). Lay the pork out skin-
side down. Mix the garlic, olives, and oregano in a bowl, and season
with salt and black pepper. Rub the mixture in a line down the
middle of the pork, then roll the pork up tightly and secure with
string. Sit the roll in a large roasting tin, cut-side down. Rub all
over with olive oil, then rub sea salt into the cuts.

2 Roast the pork in the oven for about 20 minutes until the skin is
really golden and crispy for perfect crackling. Reduce the oven
temperature to 190°C (375°F/Gas 4), and continue to roast for a
further 1 hour to 11⁄4 hours until the pork is cooked through.
Remove to a large plate, and leave to rest in a warm place for
about 15 minutes.

3 Cut the pork into slices, and serve with gravy made with the pan
juices, apple sauce, crispy roast potatoes, and seasonal vegetables
– and a generous piece of crackling for each portion.
Roast pork loin
Pork essentials
Use this chart to identify the best pork cuts for
roasting, and how long to cook each. Then
perfect the art of crackling and apple sauce,
too.
Pork roasting chart
CUT DESCRIPTION ROAST
Leg The hind leg is a prime but Leg joint: Preheat oven to
lean roasting joint, bone-in or 220°C (425°F/Gas 7). Roast for
boned and rolled. Leg steaks 30 min, then reduce heat to
are lean, boneless slices; 160°C (325°F/Gas 3) and cook
escalopes (schnitzels) are for 23 min per 450g (1lb). Rest
thinner. Cubed boneless leg is for 20–30 min.
suitable for kebabs and stir-
frying.

Chump From the rump end of the Roast chump joint as leg
back, this yields a roasting joint.
joint that is usually boned
and rolled, as well as the
largest of the pork chops.

Loin Tender loin joints are sold on Roast loin joint and rack as
the bone with skin on, and leg joint.
also boned and skinless. Rack
is a joint from the fore end of
the loin, sometimes with the
skin on; two racks tied
together and stuffed become
a crown roast. Loin is cut into
chops, with bone, and into
steaks, which are slices with
a covering of fat on one side.

Belly A fatty cut, boned and rolled Spare ribs and slices: Preheat
as a joint, or sliced/diced for oven to 180°C (350°F/ Gas 4).
grilling and frying or Roast for 20–30 min, then
marinating and slow-cooking. coat with marinade/sauce
Spare ribs, trimmed from and roast for a further 10–15
inside the belly, are a popular min until well glazed. Or
cut for marinating and slow-roast at 160°C
grilling or baking. (325°F/Gas 3) for 1–1½ hours,
basting with liquid or sauce;
increase heat to 200°C
(400°F/Gas 6) and roast for 20–
30 min to brown and glaze.
Belly joint: Preheat oven to
220°C (425°F/Gas 7). Score
skin and rub with salt. Roast
for 20 min, then reduce heat
to 150°C (300°F/Gas 2) and
cook for 3–4 hours.
Shoulder Shoulder/hand/blade joint Shoulder/hand/blade joint:
may be on the bone or boned Preheat oven to 220°C
and stuffed; slow-roast for (425°F/Gas 7). Score skin and
delicious flavour. A steak is a rub with salt. Brown for 30
succulent slice of shoulder; a min, then reduce heat to
chop includes some bone. 150°C (300°F/Gas 2) and
Diced, boneless, forequarter continue roasting for 3–31⁄2
meat is suitable for stews. hours.

Trotters Need very slow simmering; After cooking and cooling,

then they are cooled, stuffed, halve, brush with butter, and
and grilled. roll in breadcrumbs. Roast at
200°C (400°F/Gas 6) for 15–20
min, or until crisp and brown.

Head and cheek/jowl Pig’s head is mostly used to Head: Preheat oven to 190°C
make brawn. Cheek and jowl (375°F/Gas 5). After braising,
are fatty cuts from the head protect ears with foil and
that can be used like belly. roast for 30–45 min to colour;
remove foil for the last 15
min.

Fillet/tenderloin A slim, tender, tapering Not recommended.

muscle from the hind end of
the loin that is usually cooked
whole. May be sliced into
medallions, which when part-
sliced and opened out
become Valentine steaks.

Neck/collar A well-marbled cut that can Not recommended.

be sliced, diced, or cooked as
a joint.
Make perfect crackling

1 Using a very sharp knife, score the rind of a pork shoulder

widthways, working from the centre, outwards. Repeat for the
other end. Rub the entire shoulder with a little oil, then massage
the rind liberally with sea salt.

2 When finished resting, hold the meat with a carving fork and cut
just beneath the crackling. Lift away the crackling in one piece.
Using kitchen scissors or a sharp knife, cut the crackling crossways
in half. Serve alongside the roasted meat.
 Apple sauce
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes
COOKING TIME 10 minutes
SERVES 4

450g (1lb) cooking apples, peeled, cored, and quartered

2–3 tbsp caster sugar (depending on the tartness of the apples)
1 Put the apples in a pan, sprinkle over 1 tbsp of water, then add
the sugar. Cover and cook over a low heat for 10 minutes, or until
the apples have begun to break down.

2 Stir with a wooden spoon until the sauce reaches your preferred
consistency – either a smooth purée or more chunky. Taste and
add more sugar, if required. Serve warm or cold with roast pork.
Apple sauce
Pork belly with onions and
potatoes
A delicious one-pot Sunday roast, which gives
up lots of wonderful juices. Be sure to skim the
surface of fat before serving, for the best
results.
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes
COOKING TIME 1 hour 50 minutes
SERVES 6

1kg (21⁄4lb) piece of pork belly

1 tsp sea salt
6 tbsp olive oil
3 large red onions, each cut into 8 wedges
4 large potatoes, cut into wedges
250g (9oz) chestnut mushrooms, halved
300ml (10fl oz) medium-dry cider
4 garlic cloves, chopped
1 heaped tbsp thyme
600ml (1 pint) light vegetable stock
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

1 Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F/Gas 7). Score the skin of the
pork belly deeply, then rub the salt and 2 tbsp of the oil into it.
Transfer to a baking tray and place in the oven for 20 minutes, or
until the skin has crisped up. Remove from the oven and reduce
the temperature to 160°C (325°F/Gas 3).

2 While the pork is roasting, heat the remaining oil in a large

frying pan, add the onions and potatoes, and cook for 10 minutes,
stirring constantly. Add the mushrooms and cook for 5 minutes.
Add the cider and cook for 2 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a
large baking dish, add the garlic, thyme, stock, and pepper, and
combine well. Nestle the pork in the mixture, ensuring the
crackling is not covered, and roast in the oven for 11⁄2 hours.

3 Allow to rest for 10 minutes, then cut the pork up with kitchen
scissors and serve with steamed broccoli or greens.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Cut through the richness of this pork dish
with quick-pickled apples. Core 3 tart apples
and cut them, along with 2 shallots, into 5mm
(1⁄4in) wedges. Place in a jar with a few black
peppercorns, allspice berries and juniper
berries. Bring to the boil 1 tbsp honey, 120ml
(4fl oz) white wine vinegar and 4 tbsp water,
adding sea salt to taste, then pour over the
apples and shallots. Let cool to room
temperature, then eat immediately, or within
1 week. Store in the fridge.
Honey-glazed ham
A perfect centrepiece for a festive occasion,
this roast ham will serve a throng of people
and works out as an economical solution for a
large group.
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 2 hours
SERVES 8–10

1.5kg (3lb 3oz) boneless gammon joint

1 onion, quartered
2 bay leaves
6 peppercorns
handful of cloves
finely grated zest and juice of 1 orange
3 tbsp set honey

1 Place the gammon in a large saucepan with water to cover. Add

the onion, bay leaves, and peppercorns. Bring slowly to the boil,
then simmer for 11⁄2 hours. Remove from the pan. Allow to cool.

2 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Using a sharp knife,

carefully remove the skin from the ham and discard. Place the
ham in a roasting tin, cut a criss-cross pattern in the fat and push
a clove into the centre of each diamond. Combine the orange zest,
honey, and 2 tbsp of the orange juice, then brush the surface of the
ham with the mixture.
3 Bake for 10 minutes, then baste with the remaining glaze. Return
to the oven and bake for 20 minutes, or until golden. Allow to rest
before carving. Also delicious served cold.
FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Update this dish with deeply savoury
Japanese flavours to make a miso-glazed
ham. Simmer the gammon as instructed, then
make a glaze by mixing together 2 tbsp miso
paste, 2 tbsp mirin and 4 tbsp ume plum
seasoning or honey. Proceed with the recipe
as instructed, omitting the cloves.
 Cassoulet
This hearty, slow-cooked dish
originates from the south of
France. Rich and filling, it is
an ideal dinner for cold winter
evenings.
PREPARATION TIME 30
minutes, plus soaking
COOKING TIME 3 hours 45
minutes
SERVES 4–6

350g (12oz) dried haricot beans

1 tbsp olive oil
8 Toulouse sausages
250g (9oz) piece of pancetta or a whole chorizo sausage, cut into
small pieces
2 onions, peeled and finely chopped
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
4 garlic cloves, crushed
4 duck legs
1 sprig of thyme, plus 1⁄2 tbsp chopped thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp tomato purée
400g can chopped tomatoes
200ml (7fl oz) white wine
1⁄ day-old baguette
2
1 tbsp chopped parsley
1 Soak the beans in cold water for several hours or overnight.
Drain, place in a saucepan, cover with cold water, bring to the boil,
and boil rapidly for 10 minutes. Drain.

2 Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and brown the sausages for 7–8
minutes, turning occasionally. Remove from the pan and set aside.
Add the pancetta to the pan and cook for 5 minutes. Remove and
set aside with the sausages. Add the onions and carrot, and cook
gently for 10 minutes, or until soft. Then add three-quarters of the
garlic and cook for 1 minute.

3 Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F/Gas 7). Place the duck legs in a
deep roasting dish, prick all over with a fork and roast for 30
minutes. Remove the legs and set aside, reserving the fat left
behind in the tray. Reduce the oven to 140°C (275°F/Gas 1).

4 In a heavy casserole, layer the ingredients, beginning with half

the beans, then the onions, carrot, sausages, pancetta, and duck
legs, followed by the remaining beans. Push the thyme sprig and
bay leaf in among everything and season well with salt and black
pepper.

5 Mix together 900ml (11⁄2 pints) boiling water with the tomato
purée, tomatoes, and wine. Pour into the casserole, cover, and cook
in the oven for 3 hours, adding a little extra water if needed.
6 Cut the crusts off the baguette, then tear the bread into pieces
and place in a food processor with the remaining garlic. Process
into coarse crumbs. Heat 2 tbsp of the duck fat in a frying pan and
fry the crumbs over a medium heat for 7–8 minutes, or until crisp
and golden. Drain on kitchen paper and stir in the chopped thyme
and parsley. Remove the cassoulet from the oven and stir. Sprinkle
the breadcrumb topping over in a thick, even layer and serve.
Cassoulet
 Coarse meat terrine
A great light lunch, this can be
made up to 3 days ahead and
stored in the fridge. Bring it to
room temperature before
serving.
PREPARATION TIME 30
minutes, plus pressing
COOKING TIME 1 hour 30
minutes
SERVES 8

350g (12oz) rindless streaky bacon rashers

250g (9oz) chicken livers
300g (10oz) minced pork
450g (1lb) minced veal
1 onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tsp dried oregano
1⁄ tsp ground allspice
2
115g (4oz) unsalted butter, melted
120ml (4fl oz) dry sherry
salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). With the back of a knife,
stretch the bacon rashers. Use them to line the terrine dish or
other ovenproof dish, leaving the rasher ends hanging over the
sides.
2 Mince or chop the chicken livers and mix with the minced pork,
minced veal, onion, garlic, oregano, allspice, and melted butter.
Stir in the sherry and season with salt and pepper.

3 Spoon the mixture into the dish and fold the ends of the bacon
over the top. Cover tightly with foil or a lid, then stand the dish in a
deep roasting tin. Fill the tin with enough hot water to reach
halfway up the sides of the terrine dish.

4 Cook in the oven for 11⁄2 hours, then remove and cover with fresh
foil. Place a weight on top and leave to cool, then chill, for up to 24
hours, then turn out and cut into slices. Serve with slices of warm
crusty bread or toast, topped with gherkins or cocktail onions.
Coarse meat terrine
Chicken liver pâté
For an impressive finish, set the pâté in
individual ramekins, topping each with a few
snipped chives.
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes, plus cooling
and chilling
COOKING TIME 8 minutes
SERVES 8

350g (12oz) chicken livers

115g (4oz) unsalted butter
150ml (5fl oz) red wine
1⁄ tsp dried thyme
4
10 chives, snipped, plus extra for garnishing
salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Rinse the chicken livers and pat them dry with kitchen paper.
Trim away any white sinew or greenish portions from the livers
with small scissors, then cut each in half.

2 Melt half the butter in a large frying pan over a medium heat
until it foams. Add the livers and cook, stirring often, for 4 minutes,
or until browned.
3 Add the wine, thyme, and chives to the pan. Bring to the boil
then reduce the heat and cook, stirring occasionally for 4 minutes,
or until the liquid is reduced and the livers are just cooked through
when sliced open.

4 Remove the pan from the heat and leave to cool for 10 minutes.
Add salt and pepper to taste, then tip the livers and sauce into a
blender, and blend until smooth. Adjust the seasoning if necessary.
Spoon the pâté into a serving bowl, pressing it down with the back
of the spoon so it is firmly packed, then set aside.

5 Melt the remaining butter over a medium heat, then pour it over
the top of the pâté. Chill, uncovered, for at least 2 hours. Serve
garnished with snipped chives.
ALL ABOUT
ROAST POULTRY
The perfect roast bird is a keystone of a good
cook, but there are a few tricks for getting it
right every time.
Poultry roasting chart
Use these times as a guide, bearing in mind
the size and weight of each bird varies. Be sure
to preheat the oven before cooking your
bird(s), and always check that the bird is fully
cooked before serving.

BIRD OVEN TEMP COOKING TIME

Chicken 200°C (400°F/Gas 6) 20 mins per 450g (1lb) plus 20
mins

Turkey

3.5–4.5kg (7–9lb) 190°C (375°F/Gas 5) 21⁄2–3 hrs total cooking

5–6kg (10–12lb) 190°C (375°F/Gas 5) 31⁄2–4 hrs total cooking
6.5–8.5kg (13–17lb) 190°C (375°F/Gas 5) 41⁄2–5 hrs total cooking

Duck 180°C (350°F/Gas 4) 20 mins per 450g (1lb) plus 20

mins

Goose 180°C (350°F/Gas 4) 20 mins per 450g (1lb) plus 20

mins

Poussin 190°C (375°F/Gas 5) 12 mins per 450g (1lb) plus 12

mins
 Roast chicken
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 1 hour 15
minutes
SERVES 4, PLUS LEFTOVERS

1.3kg (3lb) oven-ready chicken

50g (13⁄4oz) unsalted butter
1 lemon, quartered
salt and freshly ground black pepper
150ml (5fl oz) hot vegetable stock or water

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Sit the chicken in a

roasting tin, then coat evenly all over with the butter – this ensures
crisp, evenly golden skin. Stuff the neck end, push the lemon in the
body cavity, and season the chicken all over with salt and black
pepper.
2 Roast in the oven for about 11⁄4 hours until cooked through and
golden, basting with the juices 2 or 3 times. To check whether the
chicken is cooked, pierce the thickest part of the thighs with a
knife. If the juices run clear, it is done; if it is pink or bloody, cook
for a little longer. Remove to a large plate, cover with foil, and
leave to rest in a warm place for about 15 minutes before carving.
Serve with gravy, made with the pan juices, crispy roast potatoes,
and seasonal vegetables.
Roast chicken
Poultry essentials
Though it may seem simple, roasting a bird
perfectly takes finesse. If it comes with giblets,
use these to make the stock for the gravy.
Stuff the bird
A stuffing to accompany a bird can be cooked in one of two ways –
either stuffed into the neck end (as below) or cooked separately in
the oven. If stuffing the bird, stuff it under the skin, rather than
into the cavity, as this will ensure that it cooks properly. It will also
help to protect the breast meat as it roasts and any butter or fat in
the mixture will help to keep the meat moist.
WATERCRESS AND APRICOT STUFFING
50g (13⁄4oz) dried apricots
3 slices white bread, processed into crumbs
50g (13⁄4oz) hazelnuts, skinned
bunch of watercress, roughly chopped
Put the apricots in a small pan of water and bring to the boil. Drain
and add to the breadcrumbs. Put the hazelnuts into a food
processor and process for a few seconds, then add the chopped
watercress and breadcrumbs. Process for a few seconds, then
season and put into a bowl.

To stuff the bird, lift the flap of skin from around the wishbone
area at the neck and draw this back until it exposes as much of the
breast as necessary. Carefully push the stuffing in under the skin
onto the breast, then pull back the skin to cover it and tuck in
under the bird.
Baste and cook

1 Preheat the oven (see chart). Paint oil, rub on butter, and season
the bird. Place in a pan, pour in 150ml (5fl oz) stock, and put in the
middle of the oven. After 15 minutes, reduce the heat to 190°C
(375°F/Gas 5).
2 Roast for a further 25 minutes, then baste the bird with the
juices in the pan. Turn the bird over onto its breast so that the
oven heat can focus on the thighs. Baste the bird again, then
continue roasting for another 25 minutes.

3 Turn the bird onto its back and test for doneness. Insert a skewer
into the thigh or the thick end of the breast. If the juices run clear,
the bird is cooked. If there are traces of blood, continue cooking
and test again after 10 minutes.
Make gravy

1 Using a large spoon skim off most of the fat from the pan juices.
Put the pan over a low heat. Mix 1 tbsp plain flour with 1 tbsp of
the bird fat and whisk it into the remaining pan juices.

2 Add 300ml (10fl oz) water or stock and 1 tbsp tomato purée,
increase the heat, and bring to a boil, whisking constantly to get rid
of any lumps.

3 Strain the gravy through a sieve, into a clean container, for

maximum smoothness, then pour into a gravy boat, ready to serve
piping hot.
Game bird essentials
Use these techniques to ensure that small,
delicate game birds roast evenly. It is also
essential to time the cooking properly, so the
meat remains moist.
Truss
Trussing smaller game birds, such as quails, before roasting helps
them to keep their shape and ensures that each part of the bird
cooks evenly, without overcooking any of the bony parts first. Hold
the bird, breast-side down, on a work surface, tuck the neck skin
under the bird, and cover with the wings. Turn the bird over and
pass a length of string under the tail end of the bird. Tie a secure
knot over the leg joints. Bring the strings along the sides of the
body, between the breasts and the legs, and loop them around the
legs. Turn the bird over, so that it is breast-side down again and tie
the strings tightly under the body. Bring both ends of the string
down between the sides of the body and the insides of the wings.
Tie the wing bones at the neck opening so they are tucked securely
under the body.
Lard and bard
Larding is the technique of inserting fat deep into meat. This is
unnecessary when serving game pink; it is only necessary if you
want to cook the meat past that stage. To lard, cut the fat into
strips and insert the strips deep into the meat with a larding needle
or sharp knife. This task is much easier if the fat has been frozen
beforehand. Barding means wrapping the meat in fat before
cooking it. You can use bacon and pancetta, for example. Here,
game birds are barded by being wrapped in vine leaves and streaky
bacon before they are roasted.
Game roasting chart
BIRD DESCRIPTION ROAST
Quail Farmed bird, not hung, so Put a bay leaf or small sprig of
mild-flavoured. Sometimes rosemary inside to flavour.
sold boned and stuffed. Allow Truss bird. Season well.
1 bird per person (or 2 if large Smear all over with butter.
appetites!). Preheat the oven to 200°C
(400°F/Gas 6). Roast 20–25
minutes, basting frequently
until tender and just cooked
through.

Grouse Plump with dark flesh and Put half an onion or some
unique gamey flavour, herbs inside to flavour. Truss
renowned world-wide. Allow bird. Season well. Rub with
1 bird or 2 breasts per person. oil. Bard breast with bacon.
Preheat oven to 200°C
(400°F/Gas 6). Roast 35–40
minutes.

Mallard Dark, rich meat, much less Put some sage and/or half an
fatty than domestic duck. onion inside to flavour. Truss
Allow 1 breast each or 1 bird bird. Season well. Smear well
for 2–3 people. with butter or duck fat.
Preheat oven to 220°C
(425°F/Gas 7). Roast 30–35
minutes.

Partridge Young birds have paler flesh Put a sprig of thyme and/or
and are more tender. Allow 1 half a small lemon inside to
bird per person. flavour. Truss bird. Season
well. Bard breast with bacon
or pancetta. Preheat oven to
200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Roast 40
minutes.

Pheasant One of the most popular Put half an onion and/or

game birds with pale flesh. If apple inside to flavour. Truss
hung, has a stronger, gamey bird. Season well. Rub with
flavour. Allow 1 breast each oil. Bard breast with bacon.
or 1 bird for 2–3 people. Preheat oven to 200°C
(400°F/Gas 6). Roast 50
minutes–1 hour.

Teal Very small duck with a Push some sage leaves and/or
superb flavour. Allow 1 bird orange slices inside for
per person. flavour. Truss bird. Season
well. Smear with butter.
Preheat oven to 230°C
(450°F/Gas 8). Roast 15
minutes, basting frequently.
Wood pigeon Dark red flesh with a Only roast if farmed. Put a
distinctive flavour. Farmed bay leaf inside to flavour.
birds (squabs) are fatter and Truss bird. Season well.
more tender than wild ones. Smear all over with butter or
Allow 1 bird or 2–3 breasts bard with bacon. Preheat
per person. oven to 230°C (450°F/Gas 8).
Roast 15 minutes, basting
frequently.

Woodcock Considered one of the finest Usually roasted undrawn, but

for flavour, particularly if can be drawn first. Season
cooked with entrails intact well. Smear all over with
and head on. Also available butter. Preheat oven to 230°C
drawn. Allow 1 bird per (450°F/Gas 8). Roast 15
person. minutes, basting frequently.
Serve on toast.
 Roast turkey
Turkey can be challenging to
cook well, as its size means it
can become dry while it
finishes cooking through.
Follow this recipe for great,
moist meat every time.
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 3 hours 15
minutes
SERVES 6, PLUS LEFTOVERS

250g (9oz) unsalted butter

3 onions, 1 finely chopped, 2 peeled and quartered
125g (4oz) breadcrumbs
handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4kg (9lb) turkey
1 First, make the stuffing. Melt half the butter in a pan over a low
heat, add the chopped onion, and sweat gently until soft. Remove
from the heat, stir through the breadcrumbs and parsley, season,
and set aside to cool.

2 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Sit the turkey in a large
roasting tin. Season inside and out. Spread the remaining butter
over the skin. Stuff the onion quarters into the body cavity, and the
stuffing into the neck end. Roast for 20 minutes, then reduce the
oven temperature to 190°C (375°F/Gas 5).
3 Cover the turkey loosely with foil, and roast for 20 minutes per
450g (1lb) plus 20 minutes. Baste every hour with juices from the
tin. Pierce the bird with a skewer. If the juices run clear, it is ready;
if there is any trace of pink, cook for a little longer. Remove the foil
for the last 10–15 minutes.

4 Remove the turkey from the tin, and put on a large warmed
plate. Cover with foil, and leave to rest in a warm place for 15
minutes. Serve slices of turkey with gravy, roast potatoes,
cranberry sauce, and seasonal vegetables.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Ensure perfect moistness by jointing the
turkey and making confit wings and legs and
a fast-roast crown. The day before, remove
the wings and legs, jointing the legs into
thighs and drumsticks. Place the legs and
wings in a dish, sprinkle generously with sea
salt, freshly ground black pepper and thyme
leaves, cover and place in the fridge. The next
day, preheat the oven to 130°C (250°F/Gas ½),
scrape off the seasonings from the legs and
wings and place in a roasting dish with 500g
(1lb 2oz) melted duck fat.
Cook for 4 hours, then cover with foil and set
aside to keep warm. Fast-roast the turkey
crown: increase the oven temperature to
200°C (400°F/Gas 6) and roast for 40 minutes,
then cover with foil and roast for another 45
minutes. Cook the stuffing in a separate
roasting dish alongside for the final 30
minutes. Carve the crown and serve with the
drained, meltingly tender wings and legs, and
the crispy stuffing.
Roast turkey
 Roast quail
As a rule, the darker and
leaner the meat of a game
bird, the more carefully it
needs to be cooked.
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes
COOKING TIME 20–25 minutes
SERVES 4

8 quail
1
⁄2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
salt and freshly ground black pepper
small bunch of sage leaves
8 pancetta slices
2 crisp dessert apples, cored and sliced
15g (1⁄2oz) unsalted butter, melted
2 tsp demerara sugar
4 tbsp calvados or cider brandy

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Season the birds inside
and out with the nutmeg, and salt and pepper. Tuck a couple of
sage leaves into the cavity, and wrap a strip of pancetta around
each bird, tucking the ends underneath.

2 Toss the apples in the butter, sprinkle with the sugar, and place
in a roasting tin. Arrange the quail on top of the apples and roast
for 20–25 minutes, turning occasionally, until both the quail and
apples are golden brown.
3 Lift the quail and apples on to a warmed serving plate. Stir the
calvados into the roasting tin to deglaze, boil for 30 seconds, then
spoon over the quail to serve. Accompany with roast potatoes and
green beans.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Spatchcock and griddle or barbecue the quail
for a deliciously smoky flavour. Spatchcock
the birds, seasoning with nutmeg as
instructed. Place 1 sage leaf on each breast,
then cover with 1 pancetta slice. Skewer the
birds, securing the pancetta in place as you do
so. Place the quails on a very hot griddle pan
or over a very hot barbecue, turning
frequently, for 10–15 minutes or until cooked
all the way through. Roast the apples as
instructed and serve alongside.
Roast quail
 Chicken cacciatore
“Hunter-style chicken” is
traditionally served with
polenta to soak up the
delicious juices, but is also
good with Risotto alla
milanese.
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes
COOKING TIME 35–40 minutes
SERVES 4

4 chicken leg quarters, about 1.5kg (3lb 3oz) total weight

salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp olive oil
2 garlic cloves, sliced
1 onion, chopped
200ml (7fl oz) dry white wine
1 celery stick, chopped
200g (7oz) button mushrooms, sliced
400g can chopped tomatoes
150ml (5fl oz) chicken stock
1 tbsp tomato purée
2 tsp chopped rosemary
2 tsp chopped sage
8 pitted black olives, halved
1 Trim any excess fat from the chicken and season with salt and
pepper. Heat half the oil in a large, heavy frying pan and fry the
chicken in batches, until browned all over. Remove and keep hot.
Pour the excess fat out of the pan.
2 Add the remaining oil, garlic, and onion and fry gently for 3–4
minutes to soften, but not brown. Add the wine and boil for 1
minute. Stir in the celery, mushrooms, chopped tomatoes, stock,
tomato purée, and herbs.

3 Return the chicken to the pan, cover, and cook over a low heat
for 30 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through.

4 Remove the lid, add the olives, then cover and cook for a further
5–10 minutes. Serve hot.

SAVOURY SAUCES AND STOCKS KNOW-HOW:

see Make fresh chicken stock
Chicken cacciatore
 Coq au vin
Traditionally cooked for
longer with a tough old
rooster from the farmyard,
these days the same flavours
still suit our modern, more
tender birds.
PREPARATION TIME 30 minutes
COOKING TIME 1 hour 30
minutes
SERVES 4

2 tbsp plain flour

salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 chicken portions
60g (2oz) unsalted butter, finely chopped
125g (41⁄2oz) diced pancetta
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 carrot, diced
1 celery stick, roughly chopped
4 tbsp brandy or Cognac
750ml (11⁄4 pints) red wine, such as beaujolais
1 bay leaf
4–5 sprigs of thyme
1 tbsp olive oil
450g (1lb) button onions
1 tsp soft light brown sugar
1 tsp red wine vinegar
225g (8oz) button mushrooms
1 Season the flour to taste with salt and pepper. Coat the chicken
with 1 tbsp of the seasoned flour. Melt half the butter in the
casserole over a medium heat, add the chicken, and fry gently until
golden brown on all sides.

2 Add the pancetta, garlic, carrot, and celery, and fry until
softened. Add the remaining flour and cook for 1–2 minutes. Pour
in the brandy and wine, stirring to remove any sediment from the
bottom of the casserole. Add the bay leaf and thyme, bring to the
boil, cover, and simmer for 1 hour.

3 Meanwhile, melt the rest of the butter with the olive oil in a
frying pan over a medium heat. Add the onions and fry until just
brown. Stir in the sugar, vinegar, and 1 tbsp water.

4 Add the onions and mushrooms to the chicken, and cook for
another 30 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through and the
vegetables are tender.

5 Transfer the chicken and vegetables to a hot serving dish,

leaving the sauce in the casserole. Discard the bay leaf and thyme.
Skim off any excess fat and boil the sauce for 3–5 minutes, or until
reduced. Pour over the chicken and serve.
Coq au vin
 Tandoori chicken
You will get the best results
here if you use dark meat
chicken pieces, such as thighs
and drumsticks, or whole
chicken legs. Chicken breasts
tend to dry out too easily
during the high-temperature
cooking required in this
recipe.
PREPARATION TIME 10–15
minutes, plus at least 3 hours
marinating
COOKING TIME 25–35 minutes
SERVES 4

8 chicken pieces, such as thighs, legs, and breasts, skin removed

groundnut oil or sunflower oil, for greasing
60g (2oz) ghee or unsalted butter, melted
1 red onion, thinly sliced, to serve
lemon wedges, to serve
FOR THE TANDOORI MARINADE
1 onion, coarsely chopped
2 large garlic cloves
1cm (1⁄2in) piece fresh root ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped
250g (9oz) plain yogurt
3 tbsp fresh lemon juice
1⁄ tsp salt
4

11⁄4–11⁄2 tsp chilli powder, to taste

1 tsp garam masala
pinch of ground turmeric
pinch of Kashmiri chilli powder
pinch of saffron powder

1 Use a fork to prick the chicken pieces all over, then place them in
a non-metallic bowl and set aside.

2 To make the marinade, put the onion, garlic, and ginger in a

blender or food processor and blend until a paste forms, scraping
down the side of the bowl. Add the yogurt, lemon juice, salt, and
the spices, and process again.

3 Pour the marinade over the chicken and rub in well. Cover the
bowl with cling film, and leave to marinate in the refrigerator for at
least 3 hours, occasionally turning the chicken pieces in the
marinade.

4 Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F/Gas 7) and remove the chicken

from the fridge. Put a rack in a roasting pan lined with kitchen foil,
shiny-side up, and grease with groundnut oil. Arrange the chicken
on the rack then brush with melted ghee or butter. Roast for 20–25
minutes, or until the juices run clear.

5 Preheat the grill on its highest setting. Pour off the juices that
have accumulated in the bottom of the pan. Brush the chicken
with more ghee or butter and place under the grill for 5–10
minutes, or until the edges are lightly charred. Serve with the
onion slices and lemon wedges.
Tandoori chicken
 Thai green chicken
curry
The heady aromatics in a
home-made green curry paste
are almost intoxicating. Do try
and make your own paste if
you can, as it gives a big lift to
the finished dish.
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes
COOKING TIME 10 minutes
SERVES 4

1 tbsp olive oil

4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts, about 140g (5oz) each, cut
into bite-sized pieces
2 tbsp nam pla (Thai fish sauce)
400ml can coconut milk
175g (6oz) button mushrooms, chopped
6 spring onions, trimmed, with the green part sliced lengthways
salt and freshly ground black pepper
chopped coriander, to garnish
FOR THE CURRY PASTE
1 heaped tbsp diced bird’s eye chillies
1 long green chilli, deseeded
1 rounded tbsp chopped galangal
21⁄2 tbsp chopped lemongrass
1 tsp chopped kaffir lime zest
1 tsp chopped coriander root
1 tsp chopped red turmeric
21⁄2 tbsp chopped red shallots
2 tbsp chopped garlic
1 tsp yellow beans
good pinch of finely ground white peppercorns

1 First, make the curry paste: put all the ingredients in a blender or
food processor with a pinch of salt and blend for 3–4 minutes,
adding water 1 tbsp at a time as necessary, until you have a
smooth paste.

2 Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add 4 tbsp
curry paste and stir. Add the chicken and stir-fry for 2 minutes, or
until lightly browned.

3 Pour in the nam pla and coconut milk and bring to the boil,
stirring. Lower the heat, stir in the mushrooms and most of the
spring onions, and season with salt and pepper to taste, then
simmer for about 8 minutes, or until the chicken is tender and
cooked through.

4 Serve hot, garnished with coriander and the remaining sliced

spring onions. Any leftover curry paste can be kept in the fridge for
up to two weeks in an airtight container: press cling film against
the surface of the paste before closing the container.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Serve som tam (green mango or papaya
salad) on the side. Grate 140g (5oz) green
mango or papaya with the same amount of
cucumber. Place in a bowl with 3 finely sliced
spring onions and a handful each of coriander
and mint leaves. Toast a handful of unsalted
peanuts in a dry frying pan and add them to
the bowl with 1 bird’s eye chilli and 2 garlic
cloves, both finely chopped. Separately mix
together the juice of 2 limes with 2 tbsp nam
pla and 2 tsp soft brown sugar until the sugar
dissolves, then toss through the salad. Set
aside for 20 minutes, to allow the flavours to
combine, then toss again and serve alongside
the curry.

FLAVOURINGS KNOW-HOW: see Prepare herbs

Thai green chicken curry
 Seared duck with
five-spice and noodles
Ideal for those nights when
you’re craving something just
a little special. This is easy to
cook and makes a memorably
delicious and filling meal.
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes
COOKING TIME 20 minutes
SERVES 4

4 duck breasts, about 150g (51⁄2oz) each, skin scored in a criss-cross

pattern
2–3 tsp five-spice paste or powder
knob of unsalted butter
2 tbsp freshly squeezed orange juice
1 tsp palm sugar or soft light brown sugar
250g (9oz) fresh Chinese egg noodles
handful of coriander leaves, finely chopped
1 Rub the duck breasts in the five-spice paste or powder. Melt the
butter in a frying pan over a high heat. Add the duck breasts, skin-
side down, and cook for about 8 minutes until the skin is golden
and crisp. Carefully pour the fat away from the pan, then turn the
breasts over and cook on the other side for a further 6 minutes.

2 Remove the meat from the pan, and set aside to rest in a warm
place for 10 minutes. Cut into slices, and arrange on a warm plate.
Pour away any remaining fat from the pan, then add the orange
juice and sugar. Let it simmer for a minute or so over a low heat,
scraping up any sediment from the bottom of the pan with a
wooden spoon.

3 Add the noodles and toss them in the sauce for a couple of
minutes until cooked. Remove from the heat and stir through the
coriander. Serve immediately with the warm sliced duck.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Change up the regular noodles into striking
fried noodle nests. Pour vegetable oil to the
depth of 4cm (1½in) into a large, deep pan.
Divide the noodles into 4 equal portions. Place
a 10cm (4in) ring mould into the oil. Carefully
lower one-quarter of the noodles into the ring
mould, feeding them in so they don’t clump
together. Fry until crisp and golden, then
remove the ring mould and carefully turn the
noodle nest with a spatula to cook the other
side. Repeat to make 4 nests. Blot on kitchen
paper to remove excess oil, and serve the
sliced duck and sauce alongside.

PASTA, NOODLES, AND GNOCCHI KNOW-HOW:

see Boil noodles
Seared duck with five-spice and noodles
 Crispy roast duck
This Chinese-style recipe,
with its sweet-and-sour top
notes, is astonishingly good. It
takes some effort, but the
burnished, aromatic results
are well worth it.
PREPARATION TIME 1 hour 15
minutes, plus drying and
resting
COOKING TIME 1 hour 35
minutes
SERVES 4

1 tsp five-spice powder

3 tbsp oyster sauce
1 tsp salt
1 duck, about 1.8kg (4lb)
FOR THE GLAZE
3 tbsp honey
1 tbsp dark soy sauce
2 tbsp rice wine or dry sherry
1 Mix the five-spice powder, oyster sauce, and salt, and spread
over and inside the duck.

2 Insert a meat hook through the neck end, or tie string around the
neck to hang the duck. Place the duck in a colander in the sink,
pour a kettle of boiling water over it, then pat dry with kitchen
paper. Repeat this pouring and drying 5 times.

3 To make the glaze, put the honey, soy sauce, rice wine or sherry,
and 150ml (5fl oz) water in a saucepan, and bring to the boil.
Reduce the heat, simmer for 10 minutes, or until sticky, then brush
the glaze over the duck until thoroughly coated.

4 Hang the duck over a roasting tin or shallow tray in a well-

ventilated place and leave for 4–5 hours, or until the skin is dry.
5 Preheat the oven to 230°C (450°F/Gas 8). Place the duck in a
roasting tin, breast-side up, and pour 150ml (5fl oz) cold water into
the tin. Roast for 20 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to
180°C (350°F/Gas 4), and roast for 11⁄4 hours, or until the skin is
crisp and golden.

6 Leave the duck to rest for 10 minutes, then joint and arrange it
on a serving platter. Serve at once.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Try serving this with authentic Chinese
smashed cucumber to add a sharp pop that
cuts through the fatty duck. Cut 1 cucumber
into 10cm (4in) lengths, then halve each
lengthways. Smash each piece hard with the
flat side of a broad knife, or a cleaver, then
break or slice into bite-sized pieces. Toss with
a large pinch of both sea salt and sugar, place
in a colander and allow to drain for 30
minutes. Put 2 tbsp rice vinegar in a bowl with
1 tsp sea salt and 2 tsp sugar, and stir until
the sugar and salt dissolves. Stir in 1 tbsp
each of sesame oil and soy sauce, then stir in
the cucumber, adding chilli flakes to taste, if
desired. Serve with the duck.
Crispy roast duck
Chicken tikka masala
Famously a British-Indian invention, this is a
true crowd-pleaser. Leave out the chilli, if you
prefer; it will still be wonderfully spice-
flavourful without the heat and will wipe the
floor with any shop-bought paste.
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes, plus marinating
COOKING TIME 25 minutes
SERVES 4

8 skinless, boneless chicken thighs

2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2.5cm (1in) piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped
juice of 1 lime
1 red chilli, deseeded
2 tbsp coarsely chopped coriander leaves, plus extra to garnish
2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 red onion, chopped
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tbsp tomato purée
300ml (10fl oz) double cream
1 tbsp lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Place the chicken thighs in a single layer in a shallow dish. Put
the garlic, ginger, lime juice, chilli, and coriander in a food
processor with 1 tbsp of the oil and process to make a paste.
Spread the paste over the chicken. Set aside to marinate for 2
hours.
2 Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan, add the onion, and fry
until softened and starting to colour. Add the turmeric and cumin,
and fry gently for 2–3 minutes.
3 Preheat the grill on its highest setting. Lift the chicken from the
dish, reserving any marinade left behind, and place on a foil-lined
grill rack. Grill for 5 minutes, or until almost cooked and slightly
scorched at the edges, turning once.
4 Stir the tomato purée and cream into the frying pan with any
leftover marinade. Add the lemon juice and stir over a medium
heat until mixed in. Place the chicken into the pan and baste with
the sauce. Simmer for 5 minutes or until the chicken is cooked
through. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve, sprinkled
with coriander.
Pappardelle alla bolognese
The rich, meaty, slow-simmered ragù goes
well with most types of pasta.
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 2 hours
SERVES 4

2 tbsp olive oil

100g (31⁄2oz) smoked bacon lardons
1 onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
400g (14oz) lean minced steak
115g (4oz) button mushrooms, sliced
120ml (4fl oz) red wine
2 tbsp tomato purée
400g can chopped tomatoes
1 tsp dried oregano
good pinch of sugar
salt and freshly ground black pepper
90ml (3fl oz) double cream
450g (1lb) dried pappardelle pasta
freshly grated Parmesan cheese, to serve
1 Heat the oil in a deep, heavy saucepan and fry the lardons for 1–
2 minutes. Add the onion and garlic, and continue to fry, stirring
occasionally, for 5 minutes, or until softened but not browned.

2 Stir in the beef, breaking up any lumps, then cook for a further
10 minutes, or until it is evenly coloured, stirring frequently until
all the grains are separate. Stir in the mushrooms and fry, stirring,
for 1 minute. Add the wine, tomato purée, tomatoes, oregano, and
sugar. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then bring to the boil.
3 Reduce the heat to very low, cover the pan, and simmer very
gently for 1½ hours. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking. Stir the
cream into the ragù, cover, and simmer for a further 30 minutes.

4 Bring a large pan of lightly salted water to the boil. Add the
pappardelle and simmer for 8–10 minutes, or until cooked but still
with some bite. Drain well, spoon the ragù over, and serve with
freshly grated Parmesan.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Add a home-made “umami bomb” flavour
enhancer to really make your bolognese sauce
sing. Place a handful of dried porcini
mushrooms in a blender and whizz to a
powder. Tip into a bowl and stir in 1 finely
chopped garlic clove, 2 tbsp sun-dried tomato
purée, 2 tsp anchovy or black olive paste and
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar. Add to the ragù 5
minutes before the end of cooking, 1 tsp at a
time, stirring it in and tasting as you go. Store
the rest in a jar in the fridge. It will keep for
up to 2 weeks. You can add it to almost any
savoury dish, when you feel you need just a
little more pizzazz.
 Spaghetti puttanesca
A famously piquant sauce,
this is an ideal, super-
convenient store cupboard
dish to have in your
repertoire. It’s much more
than the sum of its parts.
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 25 minutes
SERVES 4

4 tbsp olive oil

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1⁄ fresh red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
2

6 canned anchovies, drained and finely chopped

115g (4oz) black olives, pitted and chopped
1–2 tbsp capers, rinsed and drained
450g (1lb) tomatoes, skinned, deseeded, and chopped
450g (1lb) dried spaghetti
salt
1 Heat the oil in a saucepan over a medium heat, add the garlic
and chilli, and cook for 2 minutes, or until the garlic is slightly
coloured. Add the anchovies, olives, capers, and tomatoes and stir,
breaking down the anchovies to a paste.
2 Reduce the heat and let the sauce simmer, uncovered, for
around 10–15 minutes, or until the sauce has thickened, stirring
frequently.
3 Meanwhile, bring a large pan of lightly salted water to the boil.
Add the spaghetti and simmer for 10 minutes, or until cooked but
with some bite. Drain well, toss the with the sauce, and serve.

VEGETABLES KNOW-HOW: see Deseed and cut

chillies
PASTA, NOODLES, AND GNOCCHI KNOW-HOW:
see Cook dried pasta
Spaghetti puttanesca
 Pasta alla carbonara
The eggs in this recipe are
cooked by the heat of the
pasta. Make sure to stir in the
sauce vigorously, until it
thickens (this shows the eggs
are cooking) and clings to the
pasta.
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes
COOKING TIME 10 minutes
SERVES 4–6

450g (1lb) dried pasta, such as tagliatelle, spaghetti, or linguine

salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tbsp olive oil
175g (6oz) pancetta or cured unsmoked bacon rashers, rind
removed, and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
5 large eggs
75g (21⁄2oz) Parmesan cheese, grated, plus extra to serve
75g (21⁄2oz) pecorino cheese, grated, plus extra to serve
1 sprig of thyme, leaves only, chopped (optional)

1 Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the pasta,
and cook for 10 minutes, or until cooked but with some bite.

2 Meanwhile, heat half the oil in a large frying pan over a medium
heat. Add the pancetta and garlic, and fry, stirring, for 5–8 minutes,
or until the pancetta is crispy.
3 Beat the eggs and cheeses together, add pepper to taste, and the
thyme, if using. Drain the pasta well and return to the pan. Add
the eggs, pancetta, and the remaining oil, and stir until the pasta is
coated. Serve while still hot, sprinkled with the extra cheese and
thyme (if using).

PASTA, NOODLES, AND GNOCCHI KNOW-HOW:

see Cook dried pasta
Pasta alla carbonara
Lasagne al forno
A great dish to feed a hungry family. Make this
up to 2 days ahead, cover, and store in the
fridge, then bake when needed.
PREPARATION TIME 25 minutes
COOKING TIME 1 hour 35 minutes
SERVES 4

1 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, chopped
2 celery sticks, chopped
2 small carrots, chopped
50g (2oz) pancetta, diced
500g (1lb 2oz) lean minced steak
400g can chopped tomatoes
1 tsp dried oregano
60g (2oz) unsalted butter
60g (2oz) plain flour
600ml (1 pint) milk
salt and freshly ground black pepper
150g (51⁄2oz) ricotta cheese
12 pre-cooked lasagne sheets
50g (13⁄4oz) Parmesan cheese, grated

1 To make the ragù sauce, heat the oil in a saucepan over a

medium heat and sauté the onion, celery, carrots, and pancetta for
5 minutes, or until beginning to brown. Add the beef and cook until
browned, breaking up with the side of a spoon, until all the grains
are separate. Add the tomatoes, oregano, and 150ml (5fl oz) water.
Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, stirring
occasionally, for 40 minutes.
2 Meanwhile, to make the béchamel sauce, melt the butter in a
small saucepan over a low heat and stir in the flour. Cook, stirring,
for 1 minute, then remove the pan from the heat and slowly whisk
in the milk. Return to the heat and cook, whisking, for 2–3 minutes,
or until the sauce thickens. Season to taste with salt and pepper,
then stir in the ricotta.

3 Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F/Gas 5). Spread a little béchamel

sauce over the base of an ovenproof dish. Arrange a layer of
lasagne sheets on top, then add one-third of the ragù sauce in an
even layer. Drizzle 1 or 2 spoonfuls of the béchamel over the meat
sauce and top with another layer of lasagne.
4 Repeat until all the lasagne and sauce has been used, finishing
with a thick layer of béchamel sauce. Sprinkle Parmesan on top
and bake for 45 minutes, or until piping hot and the sauce bubbles
around the edge.

SAVOURY SAUCES AND STOCKS KNOW-HOW:

see Make béchamel sauce
Macaroni cheese
The key to perfecting this filling favourite lies
in the béchamel sauce: make sure it is smooth,
creamy, and packed with a blend of gooey
cheeses.
PREPARATION TIME 20 mins
COOKING TIME 35 mins
SERVES 4–6

400g (14oz) dried macaroni

salt
85g (3oz) unsalted butter
100g (31⁄2oz) fresh breadcrumbs
60g (2oz) plain flour
1 tsp mustard powder
pinch of ground nutmeg
400ml (14fl oz) milk, warmed
175g (6oz) Cheddar cheese, coarsely grated
100g (31⁄2oz) mozzarella cheese, drained and finely chopped
60g (2oz) Parmesan cheese, coarsely grated
1 Bring a large pan of lightly salted water to the boil. Add the
macaroni and boil for 2 minutes less than specified on the packet.
Drain well and set aside, shaking off any excess water.
2 Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6) and grease a
large ovenproof serving dish. Melt 30g (1oz) of the butter in a small
pan. Add the breadcrumbs, stir, then remove the pan from the
heat and set aside.

3 Melt the remaining butter in a large saucepan over a low heat

and stir in the flour. Cook, stirring, for one minute, then stir in the
mustard powder and nutmeg. Remove the pan from the heat and
slowly whisk in the milk. Return the pan to the heat and bring the
mixture to the boil, whisking, for 2–3 minutes, or until the
béchamel sauce thickens. Remove from the heat. Stir in the
Cheddar cheese until melted and smooth, then add the macaroni
and mozzarella and stir.

4 Transfer the mixture to the prepared dish and smooth the

surface. Toss the breadcrumbs with the Parmesan cheese and
sprinkle over the top. Place the dish on a baking tray and bake for
25 minutes, or until heated through and golden brown on top.
Leave to stand for 2 minutes, then serve straight from the dish.
 Paella
This colourful rice dish,
bursting with seafood and
infused with saffron, is a true
Spanish-style treat. And,
unlike risotto, it does not
require constant stirring.
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes
COOKING TIME 30 minutes
SERVES 4

1.2 litres (2 pints) hot fish stock

large pinch of saffron threads
2 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 large tomatoes, skinned and chopped
12 peeled, raw king prawns
225g (8oz) squid, sliced into rings and tentacles
400g (14oz) paella rice
85g (3oz) petits pois
4 langoustines or Dublin Bay prawns
12–16 mussels, cleaned
1 tbsp chopped parsley, to garnish

1 Pour a little of the hot fish stock into a cup or jug, add the
saffron threads, and set aside to infuse. Heat the oil in a paella pan
or large frying pan over a medium heat, and fry the onion and
garlic until softened. Add the tomatoes and cook for 2 minutes,
then add the prawns and squid, and fry for 1–2 minutes, or until
the prawns turn pink.

2 Stir in the rice, then stir in the saffron liquid, petits pois, and
900ml (11⁄2 pints) of stock. Simmer, uncovered, without stirring,
over a low heat for 12–14 minutes, or until the stock has
evaporated and the rice is just tender, adding a little extra stock if
necessary.

3 Meanwhile, cook the langoustines in 150ml (5fl oz) simmering

stock for 3–4 minutes, or until cooked through. Transfer to a warm
plate with a slotted spoon. Add the mussels to the stock, cover, and
cook over a high heat for 2–3 minutes, or until open. Remove from
the pan with a slotted spoon, discarding any that have not opened.
If the paella seems dry, strain in this flavourful cooking liquid, a
spoonful of a time, as necessary.

4 Reserve 8 mussels for garnish. Remove the rest from their shells
and stir into the paella. Arrange the reserved mussels and
langoustines on top, and garnish with parsley.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Make a saffron and black garlic aïoli to serve
alongside. Soak a pinch of saffron threads in a
small amount of warm water for 20–30
minutes. Crush 1 black garlic clove. Add both
to a batch of home-made mayonnaise and
serve with the paella.

SHELLFISH KNOW-HOW: see Clean mussels

Paella
 Pad Thai
This is a simple version of one
of Thailand’s national dishes.
It’s quick to cook and utterly
irresistible.
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes
COOKING TIME 10 minutes
SERVES 4

2 tbsp chopped coriander

1 red bird’s eye chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
4 tbsp sunflower oil
250g (9oz) raw tiger prawns, peeled
4 shallots, finely chopped
1 tbsp palm sugar or light brown sugar
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
2 tbsp oyster sauce
1 tbsp nam pla (Thai fish sauce)
juice of 1 lime
350g (12oz) flat rice noodles, cooked according to packet
instructions
250g (9oz) beansprouts
4 spring onions, sliced
115g (4oz) unsalted roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
1 lime, cut into 4 wedges, to serve
1 Mix together the coriander, chilli, and sunflower oil in a bowl.
Fry half the mixture in a wok over a medium heat, add the prawns,
and stir-fry for 1 minute. Remove and set aside.
2 Add the remaining flavoured oil to the wok and stir-fry the
shallots for 1 minute. Add the sugar and the eggs, and cook for 1
minute, stirring frequently to scramble the eggs as they begin to
set.

3 Stir in the oyster sauce, nam pla, lime juice, noodles, and
beansprouts, and return the prawns to the wok. Stir-fry for 2
minutes, then add the spring onions and half the peanuts. Toss
everything together for 1–2 minutes, or until piping hot.
4 To serve, divide between 4 individual bowls, scatter the
remaining peanuts on top, and serve with lime wedges.

PASTA, NOODLES, AND GNOCCHI KNOW-HOW:

see Boil noodles
Pad Thai
 Smoked haddock
risotto
Knowing how to make a good
risotto is a cornerstone skill
for any cook. Be patient as you
gradually add the hot stock,
stirring all the time, and you
will have success every time.
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes
COOKING TIME 30 minutes
SERVES 4

1 tbsp olive oil

60g (2oz) unsalted butter
1 onion, finely chopped
1 celery stick, finely chopped
200g (7oz) arborio rice
150ml (5fl oz) dry cider
1 litre (13⁄4 pints) chicken stock
150g (51⁄2oz) fillet of undyed smoked haddock, skinned and
chopped
50g (13⁄4oz) baby leaf spinach
grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
60g (2oz) Parmesan cheese, freshly grated
4 tbsp double cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Heat the oil and half the butter in a large saucepan. Add the
onion and celery and fry over a medium heat for 5 minutes until
softened but not browned. Add the rice, cook for a few minutes,
stirring constantly until glistening. Add the cider and allow to
bubble, stirring all the time, until it has been absorbed. Start
adding the stock, a ladleful at a time, allowing the rice to absorb all
the liquid before adding more.

2 After about 15 minutes, when the rice is nearly cooked and you
have only 1 more ladleful of stock to go, add the haddock and the
last of the stock. Cook until the stock is absorbed, then stir in the
spinach and lemon zest. As soon as the spinach has wilted, stir in
the lemon juice, Parmesan cheese, the rest of the butter (cut into
small pieces), and the cream. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
3 Spoon the risotto on to warm bowls and serve straight away.

FISH KNOW-HOW: see Skin a fillet

RICE, GRAINS, AND PULSES KNOW-HOW: see
Make risotto
Smoked haddock risotto
Risotto alla milanese
Traditionally served with Osso buco, this is a
great blueprint recipe from which to develop
your own risotto creations.
PREPARATION TIME 5 minutes
COOKING TIME 25 minutes
SERVES 4–6

2 good pinches of saffron threads

1.2 litres (2 pints) boiling chicken stock
85g (3oz) unsalted butter
2 tbsp olive oil
1 banana shallot, very finely chopped
400g (14oz) arborio rice
150ml (5fl oz) dry white wine
85g (3oz) Grana Padano or Parmesan cheese, grated, plus a few
shavings for garnish (optional)
salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Put the saffron in a cup with 3 tbsp of the boiling stock and set
aside to infuse.

2 Heat the oil with half the butter in a large saucepan. Add the
shallot and fry over a low heat, stirring, for 3 minutes until
softened but not browned. Add the rice and cook for a few
minutes, stirring constantly, until glistening and translucent. Add
the wine and simmer gently, stirring all the time, until it has been
absorbed.

3 Add the stock a ladleful at a time, allowing the rice to absorb all
the liquid before adding more, until the rice is creamy, but still
with some bite; this should take about 20 minutes.
4 Strain the saffron liquid into the rice. Stir in with the rest of the
butter (in small pieces) and the grated cheese. Taste and season, if
necessary. Serve straight away, garnished with a few Parmesan
shavings, if using.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Make risotto balls (arancini) filled with oozing
mozzarella. The day before, make the risotto
as described, and leave to cool, then cover and
refrigerate. The following day, stir in 2 lightly
beaten eggs and quarter 2 mozzarella balls.
Form a handful of cold risotto into a ball
around a piece of mozzarella. Pass each
risotto ball through a dish of plain flour, then
a dish of lightly beaten egg, then a dish of
breadcrumbs, to coat. Place on a plate, cover
and refrigerate for 30 minutes, or up to 2 days.
To cook, heat 1cm (½in) light olive oil over a
medium heat in a broad frying pan. Add the
risotto cakes and cook for 5 minutes, then
turn and cook for a further 5 minutes. Blot off
excess oil and serve, with a roast tomato–basil
sauce if you like.
RICE, GRAINS, AND PULSES KNOW-HOW: see
Make risotto
Ratatouille
The fragrances of Mediterranean garlic,
oregano, and olive oil make this the ideal dish
for serving at room temperature. A fantastic
accompaniment to a high-summer barbecue.
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 40 minutes
SERVES 4

4 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, chopped
1 garlic clove, chopped
1 courgette, sliced
1 small aubergine, about 225g (8oz), cut into 2.5cm (1in) cubes
1 red pepper, deseeded, and cut into 2.5cm (1in) pieces
150ml (5fl oz) vegetable stock
400g can chopped tomatoes
2 tsp chopped oregano, plus 2–3 sprigs to serve
salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Heat the oil in a large casserole over a medium heat. Add the
onion and cook for 5 minutes, until soft and transparent. Stir in the
garlic, courgette, aubergine, and red pepper, and fry for 5 minutes,
stirring.

2 Add the stock, tomatoes with their juice, and the chopped
oregano to the casserole, and bring the mixture to the boil. Reduce
the heat to low and partially cover the pan. Cook until the
vegetables are tender, stirring occasionally.
3 Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the ratatouille into a
serving bowl and serve immediately, garnished with oregano
sprigs. Alternatively, serve at room temperature, or cool quickly,
cover, and refrigerate then serve cold.

VEGETABLES KNOW-HOW: see Prepare bell

peppers
FLAVOURINGS KNOW-HOW: see Prepare herbs
 Gratin dauphinois
A gratin rich with cream and
fragrant with garlic and
nutmeg. Eat it as an
accompaniment, or as a
simple Sunday supper with a
crisp green salad.
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes
COOKING TIME 1 hour 30
minutes
SERVES 4–6

900g (2lb) even-sized waxy potatoes, such as Nicola

salt and freshly ground black pepper
600ml (1 pint) double cream
1 garlic clove, cut in half
freshly grated nutmeg
45g (11⁄2oz) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Butter a gratin dish.

2 Peel the potatoes and slice them into even rounds 3mm (1⁄8in)
thick – use a mandolin or a food processor fitted with a fine slicing
blade, if you have one. Rinse the potato slices in cold water, drain,
and pat dry with kitchen paper or a tea towel.
3 Arrange the potato slices in layers in the prepared dish,
seasoning each layer well with salt and pepper.
4 Pour the cream into a saucepan, add the garlic and a good
grating of nutmeg, and bring just to the boil. Pour the cream over
the potatoes and dot the top with small pieces of butter.
5 Cover with foil and bake for 1 hour. Remove the foil and
continue baking for 30 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender
when pierced with a knife and the top is golden. Serve hot, straight
from the oven.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Make the most of seasonal vegetables and
bake gratins all year round. Use celeriac,
swede, and Jerusalem artichoke in winter, or
in summer layer in fennel, kohlrabi, and
turnips. In every case, substitute them for half
the weight of potato, and follow the recipe as
instructed. The dish has infinite variations
and will never get boring.
Gratin dauphinois
 Tabbouleh
Aromatic herbs and sharp
lemons lift this Middle Eastern
bulgur salad. It’s at its best as
a side with simple grilled and
glazed meats.
PREPARATION TIME 20
minutes, plus standing
SERVES 4

115g (4oz) bulgur wheat

juice of 2 lemons
75ml (21⁄2fl oz) olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
bunch of flat-leaf parsley
small bunch of mint leaves
4 spring onions, finely chopped
2 large tomatoes, deseeded and diced
1 head of Little Gem lettuce

1 Put the bulgur wheat in a large bowl, pour over cold water to
cover, and leave to stand for 15 minutes, or until the wheat has
absorbed all the water and the grains have swollen.

2 Add the lemon juice and olive oil to the wheat, season to taste
with salt and pepper, and stir to mix.

3 Just before serving, pick the leaves from the herbs and finely
chop them, discarding any coarse stalks. Mix the parsley, mint,
spring onions, and tomatoes into the wheat.
4 Arrange the lettuce leaves on a serving plate and spoon the salad
into the leaves.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
For a different take, make crisp tabbouleh
fritters. Make a batter by putting 4 tbsp
chickpea flour in a bowl and mixing in 2 tbsp
plain yogurt to make a paste about the
thickness of thick double cream. Add a splash
of water to thin it out, if necessary. Mix in the
tabbouleh. Heat 5mm (¼in) of light olive oil in
a large frying pan, then add 1 tbsp of the
tabbouleh mixture to make a round fritter.
Add a few more to the pan, but be careful not
to overcrowd it. Cook, turning once, until
golden on both sides. Serve with lemon
wedges and tahini sauce, made by mixing 3
tbsp tahini paste, 1 crushed garlic clove and
the juice of 2 lemons.
Tabbouleh
 Chargrilled asparagus
with hollandaise
Asparagus is one of the most
exquisite vegetables, made all
the more alluring by its short
six-week season. This recipe
heightens its flavour by
griddling, to intensify the
asparagus taste, then adding
the creamy sauce.
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes
COOKING TIME 10 minutes
SERVES 4

500g (1lb 2oz) fresh asparagus spears

1 tbsp olive oil
FOR THE HOLLANDAISE
2 tbsp white wine vinegar
4 egg yolks
115g (4oz) unsalted butter, melted
salt and freshly ground black pepper
juice of 1⁄2 lemon

1 Trim the woody ends from the asparagus, then toss the spears in
the olive oil. Heat a ridged cast-iron griddle pan. When very hot,
add the asparagus and cook for 5–6 minutes, depending on the
thickness of the spears, turning often, until lightly charred and just
tender.

2 Meanwhile, to make the sauce, heat the vinegar in a small pan

and allow to bubble until it reduces by half. Remove from the heat,
add 2 tbsp water, then whisk in the egg yolks one at a time.

3 Return the pan to a very low heat and whisk continuously until
the mixture is thick and light. Remove from the heat and gradually
whisk in the melted butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper,
and stir in the lemon juice.

4 Divide the asparagus between serving plates and serve with the
sauce spooned over.

VEGETABLES KNOW-HOW: see Prepare asparagus

SAVOURY SAUCES AND STOCKS KNOW-HOW:
see Make hollandaise
Chargrilled asparagus with hollandaise
 Roasted vegetables
Learn how to roast vegetables
and this recipe will take you
through the year, as you
replace these winter roots
with fennel or turnips, and
the rosemary with oregano, as
the year rolls round to the
warmer months.
PREPARATION TIME 25 minutes
COOKING TIME 1 hour
SERVES 4–6

4 tbsp olive oil

900g (2lb) floury potatoes, such as Maris Piper, peeled and
quartered
4 carrots, peeled and quartered
sea salt
4 parsnips, peeled and quartered
4 banana shallots, peeled and quartered
1 bulb of garlic, separated into cloves but left unpeeled
2 sprigs of rosemary, torn into leaves

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Put the oil in a large
roasting tin and place it in the oven.

2 Put the potatoes and carrots in a pan of salted water, bring to the
boil, then boil for 5 minutes. Add the parsnips and cook a further 3
minutes. Drain well, then return to the pan.
3 Put the lid on the pan and give it a good shake to roughen the
edges of the vegetables.

4 Remove the hot roasting tin from the oven. Carefully add the
part-cooked vegetables, along with the shallots and garlic cloves,
turning each piece over in the hot oil. Sprinkle with the rosemary
and season with sea salt. Return to the oven to roast for about 1
hour, turning once, until the vegetables are golden and tender.
Roasted vegetables
 Chips
Nearly as quick as opening a
packet, mastering the art of
deep-frying will stand you in
good stead in the kitchen. And
give you the world’s best
chips, of course...
PREPARATION TIME 10
minutes, plus soaking
COOKING TIME 20 minutes
SERVES 4

900g (2lb) Maris Piper potatoes, peeled and cut into thick chips
groundnut oil, for deep-frying
coarse sea salt

1 Soak the potatoes in cold water for 10 minutes, drain, and dry
thoroughly. Heat the oil to 160°C (325°F) and cook the potatoes, a
batch at time, for a few minutes in the oil until soft, but do not
brown. Drain on kitchen paper.
2 Increase the heat of the fryer to 180°C (350°F). Return the chips
for another 2–3 minutes, until they are brown and crisp. Using a
slotted spoon, lift the chips onto clean kitchen paper to drain, and
then transfer to a serving bowl. Sprinkle with coarse sea salt and
serve hot.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Make sweet potato chips in the same way, but
do not soak them in water. Instead, toss them
with 2 tbsp cornflour mixed with 1 tsp
paprika before the first frying. Serve with
sriracha sauce alongside a spiced pork chop.

VEGETABLES KNOW-HOW: see Make chips

Chips
 Apple pie
Few puddings are as
comforting and universally
welcomed. Home-made
shortcrust pastry will make a
difference here, so do try to
make it yourself.
PREPARATION TIME 25
minutes, plus chilling
COOKING TIME 50 minutes
SERVES 8

350g (12oz) sweet shortcrust pastry

4 tbsp plain flour, plus extra for dusting
finely grated zest and juice of 1 unwaxed lemon
100g (31⁄2oz) caster sugar
1 tsp ground mixed spice
1kg (21⁄4lb) Bramley apples, peeled and thinly sliced
2 tbsp milk, to glaze
1 Divide the dough into 2 pieces: one piece should be two-thirds of
the dough, the other about one-third. On a lightly floured work
surface, roll the larger piece into a 30cm (12in) circle and use it to
line a 23cm (9in) deep pie plate, leaving any excess to overhang.
Cover with cling film and chill for at least 15 minutes. Roll out the
remaining dough into a 25cm (10in) circle, place on a plate, cover,
and refrigerate.

2 Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6) with a

baking tray inside. Mix the lemon zest and juice, sugar, flour, and
mixed spice in a large bowl. Gently toss with the apple slices.
3 Tip the filling into the pie plate. Lightly brush the pastry on the
rim of the pie plate with water and place the smaller dough circle
on top. Crimp the edges together and cut off the excess pastry.
Carefully brush the top of the pastry with milk and cut a few slits
with a sharp knife.

4 Put the pie on the hot baking tray in the oven. Reduce the oven
temperature to 190°C (375°F/Gas 5) and bake for 50–55 minutes, or
until the pastry is golden brown. Leave to stand for 5 minutes, then
slice and serve hot.

FRUITS AND NUTS KNOW-HOW: see Peel and

prepare apples
DOUGH, PASTRY, AND CAKE KNOW-HOW: see
Sweet shortcrust pastry
Apple pie
 Chocolate fondants
A guaranteed smash hit. The
vital thing here is split-second
timing.
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes
COOKING TIME 12–15 minutes
MAKES 4

150g (51⁄2oz) unsalted butter, cubed, plus extra for greasing

1 heaped tbsp plain flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting
150g (51⁄2oz) dark chocolate (70% cocoa), broken into pieces
3 large eggs
75g (21⁄2oz) caster sugar
cocoa powder or icing sugar, for dusting (optional)
cream or ice cream, to serve (optional)

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Thoroughly grease the

sides and base of 4 x 150ml (5fl oz) dariole moulds or ramekin
dishes. Sprinkle the insides of each dish with a little flour, turning
it around until all the butter is covered with a thin layer of it. Tip
out any excess flour. Line the bases of the moulds or ramekins
with small discs of baking parchment.

2 Gently melt together the chocolate and butter in a heatproof

bowl over simmering water, stirring occasionally. Make sure the
the bowl does not touch the water. Allow to cool slightly.

3 In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugar. Once the
chocolate mixture has cooled slightly, beat it into the eggs and
sugar until thoroughly combined. Sprinkle the flour over the top of
the mixture and gently fold it in.
4 Divide the mixture between the moulds or ramekins, making
sure that the mixture does not come right up to the top. At this
stage the fondants can be refrigerated for several hours or
overnight, as long as they are brought back to room temperature
before baking.

5 Bake the fondants on a baking tray in the middle of the oven for
5–6 minutes if using dariole moulds, 12–15 minutes for ramekins.
The sides should be firm, but the middles soft to the touch.
6 Run a sharp knife around the edge of the moulds or ramekins.
Place a serving plate over each one, and invert the fondant onto
the plate. Gently remove the mould or ramekin, peel off the
parchment, and dust with cocoa powder or icing sugar, if desired.
Serve immediately with cream or ice cream.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
For a salted caramel chocolate fondant,
prepare a batch of caramel sauce, stirring in 1
tbsp sea salt as it cools. Pour the sauce into 4
greased hollows of an ice cube tray and freeze
overnight. Just before baking the chocolate
fondants, place a frozen cube in the centre of
each fondant, pushing it down below the
surface. Serve with the remaining salted
caramel sauce, if wished.

FLAVOURINGS KNOW-HOW: see Prepare

chocolate
Chocolate fondants
Bread and butter pudding
Careful cooking in a low oven gives the
pudding a custardy texture.
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes, plus soaking
COOKING TIME 40 minutes
SERVES 4

30g (1oz) unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing

5–6 slices of day-old bread, crusts removed, about 175g (6oz) in
total
60g (2oz) raisins
3 eggs
300ml (10fl oz) full-fat milk
200ml (7fl oz) single cream
60g (2oz) caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
4 tbsp apricot jam
2–3 tsp lemon juice

1 Lightly grease an ovenproof dish with a little butter. Spread the

remaining butter on the slices of bread. Cut each slice in half
diagonally, then in half again to form 4 triangles.
2 Place the raisins in the bottom of the dish and arrange
overlapping slices of bread on the top. Beat together the eggs, milk,
cream, sugar, and vanilla extract. Carefully pour the mixture over
the bread and leave to soak for at least 30 minutes.

3 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Place the dish in a deep
roasting tin then pour boiling water into the tin to a depth of 2.5cm
(1in). Bake in the oven for 30–40 minutes, until still slightly moist in
the centre, but not runny.
4 Meanwhile, put the jam in a small pan with the lemon juice and
1 tbsp water. Bring to the boil, then press the jam mixture through
a sieve. Carefully brush or spoon the sieved jam over the surface of
the hot pudding.
Rice pudding
This is lovely chilled and served with fruit
compôte and cream.
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 2 hours–2 hours 30 minutes
SERVES 4

15g (1⁄2oz) unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing

60g (2oz) short-grain rice, such as Arborio or pudding rice
600ml (1 pint) full-fat milk
30g (1oz) caster sugar
pinch of ground cinnamon or grated nutmeg

1 Lightly butter a 900ml (11⁄2 pint) ovenproof serving dish. Rinse the
rice under cold running water, and drain well. Pour the rice and the
milk into the dish and leave to rest for 30 minutes.

2 Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F/Gas 2). Add the sugar, stir, then
sprinkle the top with cinnamon or nutmeg, and dot with pieces of
the butter. Bake for 2–21⁄2 hours, or until the skin of the rice is
golden.
Crème caramel
A simple custard gives a delightfully smooth
finish to this famous pudding.
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes, plus chilling
COOKING TIME 35–40 minutes
MAKES 4

235g (81⁄2oz) caster sugar

1 vanilla pod
600ml (1 pint) full-fat milk
4 eggs
4 egg yolks

1 Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F/Gas 3). Pour boiling water into 4
individual ramekins and set aside. Fill a large bowl with cold water.
Pour 175g (6oz) caster sugar into a heavy saucepan and place over
a low heat, until the sugar has just dissolved. Do not stir; if sugar
crystals form at the sides of the saucepan, dip a pastry brush in
water and brush the pan above the crystals, taking care not to
touch the sugar. Once the sugar has dissolved, increase the heat
and boil rapidly, gently swirling the pan until the caramel is golden
brown. Place the base of the pan in the bowl of cold water to
rapidly cool, to prevent it cooking any further.

2 Working quickly and carefully, empty the ramekins and divide

the hot caramel between them. Gently swirl the dishes so that the
caramel comes halfway up the sides of each ramekin. Set aside to
cool.
3 Using a sharp knife, split the vanilla pod and scrape out the
seeds; place both the seeds and pod in a saucepan with the milk,
and heat until almost boiling. Remove from the heat and discard
the pod.
4 Meanwhile, whisk the eggs, egg yolks, and remaining sugar
together in a large bowl. Pour over the warm milk mixture,
whisking to combine, then pour this mixture into the ramekins.
Place in a roasting tin and pour boiling water into the tin to come
halfway up the sides of the dishes. Bake for 25–30 minutes, or until
just set in the centre. Remove from the tin, allow to cool, then chill
until ready to serve.

5 Gently pull the edges of the custard away from the sides of the
ramekin using a fingertip. Place a serving plate over the top of the
ramekin and invert on to the plate.

FLAVOURINGS KNOW-HOW: see Extract vanilla

seeds
EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see
Separate yolks and whites
 Crème brûlée
Err on the side of generosity
here when adding the sugar
topping. Too little, and you
won’t get that tempting
“crack” when you dive in with
your spoon.
PREPARATION TIME 20
minutes, plus standing
COOKING TIME 45 minutes
SERVES 6

500ml (16fl oz) double cream

1 vanilla pod, split in half lengthways
5 egg yolks
50g (13⁄4oz) caster sugar
4 tbsp granulated sugar
1 Preheat the oven to 140°C (275°F/Gas 1). Place the cream in a
saucepan over a low heat. Add the vanilla pod and heat until just
simmering, then remove from the hob and set aside to infuse for 1
hour.

2 Whisk the egg yolks and caster sugar together in a bowl until
well combined. Remove the vanilla pod halves from the cream, and
use the tip of a sharp knife to scrape the seeds into the cream.
3 Whisk the cream into the egg mixture, then strain through a
sieve into a jug. Pour the mixture evenly into 6 ramekins. Place the
ramekins in a roasting tin and pour boiling water into the tin to
come halfway up the sides of the dishes. Bake for 40 minutes, or
until just set. Remove from the tin, cool, and chill.

4 Just before serving, preheat the grill to its highest setting.

Sprinkle 2 tsp sugar evenly over the top of each pudding and grill
until the sugar caramelizes. You can also use a blow torch, if you
prefer: sweep the flame gently over the sugar from a slight
distances until it caramelizes. Allow to rest for 5 minutes before
serving.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
There are near-infinite flavour variations to
this recipe. Give it a fragrant Indian style by
using the crushed seeds from 10 green
cardamom pods instead of the vanilla, then
add rosewater to taste in step 3, adding it
gradually and tasting as you go, as some
brands of rosewater are stronger than others.
Use jaggery instead of granulated sugar for
the topping, if you can find it. You could also
swap out the vanilla for lavender, or even
peeled and finely grated fresh root ginger.

FLAVOURINGS KNOW-HOW: see Extract vanilla

seeds
EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see
Separate yolks and whites
Crème brûlée
 Chocolate mousse
An elegant way of serving the
mousse is in a demitasse with
a chocolate teaspoon or mint
stick laid on the saucers.
PREPARATION TIME 20
minutes, plus chilling
COOKING TIME 20 minutes
MAKES 4

115g (4oz) dark chocolate (70% cocoa), broken up, plus extra grated
or curled chocolate to serve
1 tbsp brandy or Cognac
2 eggs, separated
35g (11⁄4oz) caster sugar
150ml (5fl oz) double cream

1 Place the chocolate and brandy or Cognac in a heatproof bowl

over a pan of simmering water, ensuring the bowl does not touch
the water. When the chocolate has melted, stir until combined,
remove from the heat, and allow to cool slightly.
2 Place the egg yolks and sugar in a large bowl and whisk until
thick and creamy. Then whisk in the chocolate mixture.

3 Whip the cream in a bowl until stiff. Gently fold in the chocolate
mixture until combined, taking care not to overmix. Whisk the egg
whites until stiff, and gently fold into the chocolate mixture.
4 Spoon into individual dishes and chill for at least 2 hours. If you
like the mousse soft, take it out of the refrigerator and let it warm
to room temperature before serving. Decorate with grated
chocolate or chocolate curls before serving.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
For a dramatic Japanese-style update, make
the mousse as instructed, but use white
chocolate instead of dark chocolate. Add a
yuzu and matcha crumble: put 60g (2oz) plain
flour in a bowl with 30g (1oz) caster sugar and
1 tbsp green matcha powder, then rub in 30g
(1oz) unsalted butter with your fingertips.
Spread out on a baking tray and bake for 15
minutes, stirring halfway through. Leave to
cool, then sprinkle over the mousses just
before serving.

FLAVOURINGS KNOW-HOW: see Prepare

chocolate
EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see
Whisk egg whites
EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see
Whip cream
Chocolate mousse
Lemon tart
Don’t let the filling of this tart
over-cook in the oven.
Remove it while it is still a
silky, just-set custard, and
before it becomes fully set.
PREPARATION TIME 35
minutes, plus chilling
COOKING TIME 45 minutes
SERVES 8
FOR THE PASTRY
175g (6oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting
85g (3oz) unsalted butter, chilled
45g (11⁄2oz) caster sugar
1 egg
FOR THE FILLING
5 eggs
200g (7oz) caster sugar
zest and juice of 4 unwaxed lemons
250ml (9fl oz) double cream
icing sugar and lemon zest, to serve

1 To make the pastry, place the flour, butter, and sugar into a food
processor and pulse until it resembles breadcrumbs. Add the egg
and process until the pastry draws together into a ball.

2 Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface into a large circle
and use to line a 23cm (9in) loose-bottomed tart tin. Chill for at
least 30 minutes.

3 Prepare the filling: beat the eggs and sugar together until
combined. Beat in the lemon zest and juice, then whisk in the
cream. Chill until needed.

4 Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F/Gas 5). Line the pastry case
with greaseproof paper, fill with baking beans, and bake blind for
10 minutes. Remove the paper and beans, then return to the oven
for another 5 minutes, or until the base is crisp.

5 Reduce the oven temperature to 140°C (275°F/Gas 1). Place the

tart tin on a baking tray. Pour in the lemon filling, being careful not
to allow the filling to spill over the edges. Bake for 30 minutes, or
until just set. Remove from the oven and cool. Serve dusted with
icing sugar and sprinkled with lemon zest.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
In the winter months, make a blood orange
tart with chocolate pastry instead. For the
pastry, just substitute 3 tbsp of the flour with
cocoa powder, then proceed as instructed. For
the filling, use the zest and juice of 4 blood
oranges instead of the lemons. Sprinkle the
finished tart with candied peel instead of
lemon zest to serve.

DOUGH, PASTRY, AND CAKE KNOW-HOW: see

Sweet shortcrust pastry
DOUGH, PASTRY, AND CAKE KNOW-HOW: see
Blind bake
Lemon tart
 Pavlova
The meringue base for a
pavlova should be
wonderfully marshmallow-
like within. That is achieved
here by using a touch of
vinegar in the mixture, which
is stabilized with a little
cornflour.
PREPARATION TIME 15
minutes, plus cooling
COOKING TIME 1 hour 20
minutes
SERVES 6

6 egg whites, at room temperature

pinch of salt
350g (12oz) caster sugar
2 tsp cornflour
1 tsp white wine vinegar
300ml (10fl oz) double cream
strawberries, raspberries, and blueberries, to decorate
1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Line a baking tray with
greaseproof paper. Put the egg whites in a large, clean, grease-free
bowl with a pinch of salt. Whisk until stiff, then start whisking in
the sugar 1 tbsp at a time, whisking well after each addition.
Continue whisking until the egg whites are stiff and glossy, then
whisk in the cornflour and vinegar.
2 Spoon the meringue onto the baking tray and spread to form a
20cm (8in) circle. Bake for 5 minutes, then reduce the oven
temperature to 140°C (275°F/Gas 1) and cook for a further 11⁄4
hours, or until the outside is crisp. Allow it to cool completely
before transferring to a serving plate.

3 Whip the cream until it holds its shape, then spoon it onto the
meringue base. Decorate with the fruit and serve.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Try individual hazelnut meringues with
hazelnut spears. Add 50g (11⁄2oz) ground
hazelnuts to the meringue mixture at the end
of step 1, then pipe or spoon out individual
meringues instead of the large version. Bake
and fill as directed. For praline spears, put 60g
(2oz) caster sugar in a heavy-based saucepan
with 90g (3oz) chopped hazelnuts, place over
a medium-low heat and wait until the sugar
melts and turns a deep golden brown. Do not
stir. Tip onto a silicone sheet and leave to
cool, then break into long shards and use to
decorate the pavlovas.

EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see

Whisk egg whites
EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see
Whip cream
Pavlova
 Blueberry crumble
A classic comfort food recipe,
this will bring certain cheer to
the table.
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 30 minutes
SERVES 4

450g (1lb) blueberries

2 large peaches or 2 eating apples, sliced
grated zest of 1⁄2 unwaxed lemon
2 tbsp caster sugar
FOR THE CRUMBLE TOPPING
115g (4oz) plain flour
75g (21⁄2oz) unsalted butter, cut in small pieces
60g (2oz) rolled oats
100g (31⁄2oz) demerara sugar

1 Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F/Gas 5). Spread the blueberries

and peaches over the base of a shallow ovenproof dish and
sprinkle with the lemon zest and caster sugar.
2 Sift the flour into a bowl. Add the butter and rub in with your
fingertips until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Stir in the
oats and sugar. Spoon over the fruit to cover completely and press
down gently with the back of a spoon.

3 Place the dish on a baking tray and bake in the oven for 30
minutes, or until golden. Leave the dish to cool briefly before
serving.
Blueberry crumble
Pecan pie
Deliciously moreish, this wonderful nutty pie
deserves a wider audience. It is also incredibly
simple to put together, and looks hugely
impressive, especially when you arrange the
pecans attractively on top.
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 1 hour 30 minutes
SERVES 8

200g (7oz) sweet shortcrust pastry

plain flour, for dusting
150ml (5fl oz) maple syrup
60g (2oz) unsalted butter
175g (6oz) light soft brown sugar
1⁄ tsp vanilla extract
2

pinch of salt
3 eggs
200g (7oz) shelled pecan nuts
1 Roll the pastry out on a lightly floured surface, then use it to line
a 23cm (9in) loose-bottomed tart tin. Trim around the top edge of
the tin, and prick the base all over with a fork. Chill for at least 30
minutes.

2 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Line the pastry case
with greaseproof paper, and fill with baking beans. Blind bake for
10 minutes. Remove the paper and beans, and return to the oven
for another 10 minutes, or until pale golden. Remove the pastry
case from the oven temperature and reduce the temperature to
180°C (350°F/Gas 4).
3 Pour the maple syrup into a saucepan, and add the butter, sugar,
vanilla extract, and salt. Place the pan over a low heat, and stir
constantly until the butter has melted, and the sugar dissolved.
Remove the pan from the heat, and leave the mixture to cool until
it feels just tepid, then beat in the eggs, one at a time. Stir in most
of the pecan nuts, then pour the mixture into the pastry case.
Arrange the reserved nuts on the surface of the mixure as desired.

4 Bake for 40–50 minutes, or until just set. Cover with a sheet of
foil if it is browning too quickly.

5 Remove the pie from the oven, transfer it to a wire rack and
leave to cool for 15–20 minutes. Remove from the tin and either
serve it warm or leave it on the wire rack to cool completely.

DOUGH, PASTRY, AND CAKE KNOW-HOW: see

Sweet shortcrust pastry
DOUGH, PASTRY, AND CAKE KNOW-HOW: see
Blind bake
Banoffee pie
It’s worth boiling two cans of condensed milk
at the same time, then keeping one chilled in
the fridge for ready-made dulce de leche.
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes, plus milk
boiling and chilling
SERVES 8

397g can sweetened condensed milk

200g (7oz) digestive biscuits, crushed
1 tbsp light soft brown sugar
60g (2oz) butter, melted
3 bananas
2 tsp lemon juice
300ml (10fl oz) whipping cream or double cream
2 tbsp espresso coffee, cooled
a little grated dark chocolate
a few toasted chopped nuts (optional)

1 To make the dulce de leche, remove any label on the condensed

milk. Put the unopened can in a saucepan of water. Bring to the
boil, reduce the heat, part-cover with a lid and simmer gently for 3
hours, topping up with water as it evaporates. (Do not allow the
water to boil dry, or the can may explode.) Remove from the pan
and leave to cool.
2 Mix the biscuit crumbs with the brown sugar and melted butter
in a bowl. Press into the base and up the sides of a 20cm (8in) flan
dish. Chill in the refrigerator until firm.
3 Slice the bananas and toss them in the lemon juice. Spread them
over the biscuit base.
4 Open the can of dulce de leche and spread it evenly over the
bananas.

5 Whip the cream with the cold espresso until softly peaking, then
spread over the dulce de leche. Sprinkle with a little grated
chocolate and some chopped nuts, if using. Chill for at least 1 hour
before serving.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Make a tropical vegan version with coconut
and lime flavours. For a vegan dulce de leche,
bring 840ml (11⁄2 pints) coconut milk with 170g
(6oz) brown sugar to the boil with 1⁄2 tsp salt.
Reduce the heat to low and cook for 1–2
hours, stirring regularly, until thick and deep
brown. Allow to cool before using. Use vegan
digestive biscuits and vegan margarine for
the base, adding a finely chopped ball of stem
ginger. Substitute the dairy cream for coconut
cream, mixing it with the finely grated zest of
1 unwaxed lime instead of coffee. Sprinkle
with grated vegan dark chocolate to serve.

EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see

Whip cream
 Summer pudding
For a perfect finish every time,
set aside a little of the fruit
juice from the saucepan.
When you come to serve the
pudding, brush this juice over
any white patches.
PREPARATION TIME 20–25
minutes, plus chilling
COOKING TIME 5 minutes
SERVES 6

12 slices of white bread, crusts removed

125g (41⁄2oz) blackcurrants
125g (41⁄2oz) redcurrants
150g (51⁄2oz) caster sugar
250g (9oz) mixed berries, such as strawberries, raspberries,
mulberries, and blueberries
1 Line a 900ml (11⁄2 pint) pudding basin with the bread slices,
beginning with a circle cut to fit the base, then overlapping slices
evenly around the side. Reserve a few slices of bread to cover the
fruit later.

2 Add the currants and sugar to a heavy-based saucepan, and cook

over a low heat until soft and the juices have run. Stir in the mixed
berries and cook for 1 minute, or until just softening.

3 Spoon some of the juices over the bread, then fill the basin with
the fruit. Make sure the fruit is packed well into the basin. Cover
the fruit with the reserved slices of bread, ensuring it is completely
covered with an even layer.

4 Stand the basin in a dish to catch any overspill of juice. If there is

any more juice remaining in the saucepan, spoon this over the top
layer of bread. Cover with cling film and place a small plate on top.
Put a weight on the plate and chill overnight.

5 Invert the pudding onto a serving plate to serve.

Summer pudding
Profiteroles
Much easier to make than you
might think, home-made
choux buns are infinitely
better – crisp and buttery –
than flabby shop-bought
versions.
PREPARATION TIME 30
minutes, plus chilling
COOKING TIME 30 minutes
SERVES 4
FOR THE CHOUX BUNS
60g (2oz) plain flour
50g (13⁄4oz) unsalted butter
2 eggs, lightly beaten
FOR THE FILLING AND TOPPING
400ml (14fl oz) double cream
200g (7oz) dark chocolate, broken into pieces
25g (scant 1oz) unsalted butter
2 tbsp golden syrup
1 Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F/Gas 7). Line 2 large baking trays
with baking parchment. Sift the flour onto a separate piece of
baking parchment.
2 Put the butter and 150ml (5fl oz) water into a small saucepan
and heat gently until melted. Bring to the boil, remove from the
heat, and tip in the flour. Beat quickly with a wooden spoon until
the mixture is thick, smooth, and forms a ball in the centre of the
saucepan. Cool for 10 minutes.

3 Gradually add the eggs, beating well after each addition. Use
enough egg to form a stiff, smooth, and shiny paste. Spoon the
mixture into a piping bag fitted with a 1cm (1⁄2in) plain nozzle.

4 Pipe walnut-sized rounds, set well apart, on the prepared baking

trays. Bake for 20 minutes, or until risen, golden, and crisp.
Remove from the oven and make a small slit in the side of each
bun to allow the steam to escape. Return to the oven for a further 2
minutes, allow them to crisp, then transfer to a wire rack to cool
completely.

5 When ready to serve, pour 100ml (31⁄2fl oz) cream into a

saucepan and whip the remainder until just peaking. Pile into a
piping bag fitted with a 5mm (1⁄4in) plain nozzle.

6 Add the chocolate, butter, and golden syrup to the saucepan

with the cream and heat very gently until melted, stirring
frequently. Meanwhile, pipe the whipped cream into each choux
bun and pile onto a serving plate or cake stand.
7 When the sauce has melted, mix well, and pour over the choux
buns. Serve immediately.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Make a colourful version with red
pomegranates and green pistachios. Stir 4
tbsp ground pistachios into the cream filling.
Make a pomegranate icing instead of
chocolate sauce. Sift 225g (8oz) icing sugar
into a bowl, then gradually whisk in 2–3 tbsp
pomegranate juice until you have a pink icing
the consistency of double cream. Use this to
ice each profiterole. Sprinkle with
pomegranate seeds and chopped pistachios to
serve.

EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see

Whip cream
DOUGH, PASTRY, AND CAKE KNOW-HOW: see
Choux pastry
Profiteroles
 Tiramisu
The name of this luscious
pudding means “pick-me-up”
in Italian.
PREPARATION TIME 20
minutes, plus cooling and
chilling
SERVES 4

120ml (4fl oz) cold espresso coffee

75ml (21⁄2fl oz) coffee-flavoured liqueur
350g (12oz) mascarpone cheese
3 tbsp caster sugar
360ml (12fl oz) double cream
14 sponge fingers
cocoa powder, to decorate
coarsely grated dark chocolate, to decorate

1 Mix the coffee and liqueur together in a shallow, wide serving

bowl and set aside.

2 Put the mascarpone cheese and sugar in a bowl, and beat for a
minute or so, until the sugar dissolves. Whip the cream in another
bowl until it holds its shape, then fold it into the mascarpone
mixture. Put a couple of spoonfuls of the mixture in the bottom of
a serving dish.

3 Dip and turn 1 sponge finger in the coffee mixture until just
soaked, then place it on top of the mascarpone in the dish; repeat
with 6 more sponge fingers, placing them side by side in the dish.
Cover with half the remaining mascarpone mixture, then soak and
layer the remaining sponge fingers. Top with the remaining
mascarpone and smooth the surface. Cover the dish with cling film
and chill for at least 4 hours.

4 Sprinkle the top with cocoa powder and grated chocolate just
before serving.

FLAVOURINGS KNOW-HOW: see Prepare

chocolate
EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see
Whip cream
Tiramisu
Tarte Tatin
A lovely recipe that is a deserved French
masterpiece. You may have to carefully prise
out any apple pieces that have become stuck
to the tin, and rearrange them on top to serve.
PREPARATION TIME 30 minutes, plus chilling
COOKING TIME 35 minutes
SERVES 8
FOR THE PASTRY
150g (51⁄2oz) unsalted butter
50g (13⁄4oz) caster sugar
225g (8oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting
1 egg, lightly beaten
FOR THE APPLE TOPPING
150g (51⁄2oz) unsalted butter, softened
200g (7oz) caster sugar
6 large dessert apples, such as Granny Smith’s, peeled and
quartered
1 To make the pastry, cream the butter and sugar together until
blended. Gradually mix in the flour, then stir in the egg to bind it
together. Turn the mixture onto a lightly floured surface and
knead until smooth. Wrap in cling film and chill for at least 1 hour.

2 Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F/Gas 7). For the topping, melt the
butter in a 30cm (12in) round ovenproof baking tin over a medium
heat. When the butter has melted, add the sugar, stirring
occasionally. Increase the heat slightly until the mixture begins to
bubble, then continue cooking, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes,
or until it is a light, toffee colour. Remove from the heat.
Alternatively, make the toffee mixture in a non-stick saucepan and
transfer to a lightly greased, similar-sized flan dish.

3 Arrange the apple pieces in the tin or flan dish, rounded-side

down and tightly packed together.

4 Roll out the pastry to form a circle large enough to fit over the
top of the apples with room to spare. Arrange the pastry neatly on
top of the fruit and tuck the edges into the pan. Bake for 30
minutes, or until the pastry is lightly browned and cooked. Allow
the tart to stand for 10 minutes before carefully inverting onto a
large serving plate. Serve while still warm.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Try a fragrant quince version. Make as
instructed, using baked quince instead of
apples. Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F/Gas
2). Put the quince in a covered dish with 2
tbsp each of honey and water and 1 cinnamon
stick. Bake the fruit for around 3 hours, until
rosy in colour and deeply aromatic. Leave to
cool, then use in place of the apples.

FRUIT AND NUTS KNOW-HOW: see Peel and

prepare apples
DOUGH, PASTRY, AND CAKE KNOW-HOW: see
Sweet shortcrust pastry
Chocolate brownies
Unlike other cakes, brownies should be
removed from the oven before they are fully
baked. If you use a skewer to test for doneness,
it should emerge with quite a lot of moist
crumb sticking to it, or the brownie will be dry.
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes
COOKING TIME 1 hour 15 minutes
MAKES 16

50g (13⁄4oz) dark chocolate, chopped

25g (scant 1oz) unsalted butter
3 eggs
1 tbsp clear honey
225g (8oz) light soft brown sugar
75g (21⁄2oz) self-raising flour
115g (4oz) walnuts, roughly chopped
60g (2oz) white chocolate, chopped

1 Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F/Gas 3). Grease and line a 20cm
(8in) deep, square cake tin with baking parchment.

2 Put the dark chocolate and butter into a small heatproof bowl
over a saucepan of simmering water until melted, stirring
occasionally. Don’t let the bowl touch the water. Remove the bowl
from the pan and set aside to cool slightly.
3 Beat the eggs, honey, and brown sugar together, then gradually
beat in the melted chocolate mixture. Sift the flour over, add the
walnut pieces and white chocolate to the bowl, and gently fold the
ingredients together. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin.
4 Put the tin in the oven and bake for 30 minutes. Cover loosely
with foil and bake for a further 45 minutes. The centre should be a
little soft. Leave to cool completely in the tin on a wire rack.
5 When cold, cut into squares. Store in an airtight container.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
Transform these into raspberry cheesecake
brownies. Make the brownie batter as
instructed. In a bowl, mix 200g (7oz) cream
cheese, 2 egg yolks, and 75g (2½oz) caster
sugar. Spoon the brownie mixture into the tin,
then add dollops of the cheesecake mixture
and a handful of raspberries. Swirl everything
together and bake as instructed.
 Victoria sponge cake
The epitome of British baking.
Using good butter and high-
quality eggs will give a golden
hue to the crumb, as well as a
richness to the flavour.
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes
COOKING TIME 20–25 minutes
SERVES 8

175g (6oz) unsalted butter, softened

175g (6oz) caster sugar
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1 tsp vanilla extract
175g (6oz) self-raising flour
6–8 tbsp raspberry jam
150ml (5fl oz) double cream
icing sugar, to dust

1 Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F/Gas 5). Lightly grease 2 20cm

(8in) sandwich tins and line the bottom of the tins with baking
parchment.
2 Beat the butter and sugar together until pale and fluffy. It is
important to beat the mixture well at this stage to incorporate as
much air as possible, to help prevent the eggs from curdling.

3 Mix the eggs and vanilla in a jug and add to the mixture a little
at a time, beating well after each addition. If the mixture begins to
curdle, beat in 1–2 tbsp of the flour. Sift the flour, and fold into the
egg mixture using a large metal spoon or spatula.
4 Divide the mixture equally between the prepared tins, and
spread evenly to level the tops. Bake for 20–25 minutes, until pale
golden and springy to the touch. Allow the cakes to cool in the tins
for 5 minutes, before turning out onto a wire rack. Peel off the
lining paper, and allow to cool completely.
5 When the cakes are cool, place one upside down on a serving
plate, and spread with the raspberry jam. Lightly whip the cream,
until just holding its shape, and spread over the jam. Add the
remaining cake layer, and dust lightly with icing sugar before
serving.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
For a subtle spin on afternoon tea, flavour the
sponge with Earl Grey. Crush 3 tsp Earl Grey
tea leaves with a pestle and mortar or a mini
food processor, and mix it into the cake batter
with the flour. Bake as instructed. Substitute
orange or lemon curd for the raspberry jam
and sprinkle the finished cake with finely
grated unwaxed orange or lemon zest.

EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see

Whip cream
DOUGH, PASTRY, AND CAKE KNOW-HOW: see
Prepare and line a cake tin
Victoria sponge cake
 Carrot cake
This cake is super-moist,
thanks to the oil used in the
batter instead of butter, and
the grated carrots. An all-in-
one recipe, this is a good place
for new bakers to start.
PREPARATION TIME 25 minutes
COOKING TIME 30–35 minutes
SERVES 8

215g (71⁄2oz) plain flour

200g (7oz) caster sugar
11⁄2 tsp bicarbonate of soda
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1⁄ tsp each ground cloves, nutmeg, and allspice
2

salt
150ml (5fl oz) sunflower or corn oil
3 eggs
165g (51⁄2oz) carrots, peeled and grated
125g (41⁄2oz) walnuts, chopped
150g (51⁄2oz) sultanas
FOR THE FROSTING
225g (8oz) cream cheese
75g (21⁄2 oz) soft unsalted butter
2 tsp pure vanilla extract
450g (1lb) icing sugar, sifted
grated zest of 1 unwaxed orange

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Grease and line a

traybake tin about 23 x 30cm (9 x 12in). In a large bowl, combine
the flour, sugar, bicarbonate of soda, baking powder, spices, and
salt.

2 Beat together the oil and eggs, then stir them into the flour
mixture until just combined. Add the carrots, walnuts, and
sultanas and mix well.

3 Pour the mixture into the prepared tin and spread evenly. Bake
for 30–35 minutes, or until a knife inserted in the centre comes out
clean. Cool in the tin.

4 To make the frosting, beat the cream cheese, butter, and vanilla
together with an electric mixer until smooth. Gradually beat in the
icing sugar. Fold in the orange zest with a spatula. Spread the
frosting over the top of the cooled cake.
Carrot cake
 Black Forest gâteau
This classic cake has stood the
test of time. Don’t waste the
remaining cherry juice – use it
to create a syrup for a fruit
salad.
PREPARATION TIME 55 minutes
COOKING TIME 40 minutes
SERVES 8

85g (3oz) unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for greasing

6 eggs
175g (6oz) caster sugar
125g (41⁄2oz) plain flour
50g (13⁄4oz) cocoa powder
1 tsp vanilla extract
2 x 425g cans pitted black cherries
4 tbsp Kirsch
600ml (1 pint) double cream
150g (51⁄2 oz) dark chocolate, grated

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Lightly grease and line a
23cm (9in) deep springform cake tin with baking parchment. Put
the eggs and sugar into a large heatproof bowl, and place over a
saucepan filled with simmering water. Don’t let the bowl touch the
water. Whisk until the mixture is pale and thick, and will hold a
trail. Remove from the heat and whisk for another 5 minutes, or
until cooled slightly.

2 Sift the flour and cocoa powder together, then fold into the egg
mixture using a large metal spoon or a spatula. Fold in the vanilla
and butter. Transfer to the prepared tin and level the surface. Bake
in the oven for 40 minutes, or until risen and just shrinking away a
little from the sides. Turn the cake out onto a wire rack, discard
the lining paper, and cover with a clean cloth. Allow the cake to
cool completely.

3 Carefully cut the cake into 3 even layers. Drain 1 can of cherries,
placing 6 tbsp of the juice into a bowl with the Kirsch. Roughly
chop the drained cherries. Drizzle one-third of the Kirsch and
cherry syrup over each layer of sponge.
4 Whip the cream until it just holds its shape. Place 1 cake layer
onto a serving plate. Spread a thin layer of cream over the top of
the sponge, and scatter with half the chopped cherries. Repeat
with the second layer and top with the final layer. Using a palette
knife, spread a thin layer of cream around the edges of the cake to
cover, and spoon the remaining cream into a piping bag fitted with
a star-shaped nozzle.

5 Using a spoon or a palette knife, press the grated chocolate onto

the side of the cake. Pipe swirls of cream around the top edge of
the cake. Drain the second tin of cherries and use them to fill the
centre of the cake. Scatter any remaining chocolate over the piped
cream.

FLAVOURINGS KNOW-HOW: see Prepare

chocolate
EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see
Whip cream
DOUGH, PASTRY, AND CAKE KNOW-HOW: see
Prepare and line a cake tin
Black Forest gâteau
 Red velvet cupcakes
An American classic, this cake
batter contains a touch of
cocoa, and is tinted with food
colouring for the
characteristic hue. Do use
natural food colouring if you
can.
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 15 minutes
MAKES 12

100g (31⁄2oz) self-raising flour

15g (1⁄2oz) cocoa powder
1⁄ tsp baking powder
2

115g (4oz) unsalted butter, softened

115g (4oz) caster sugar
2 eggs
1 tsp red food colouring
FOR THE FROSTING
200g (7oz) cream cheese
6 tbsp icing sugar
200ml (7fl oz) double cream
1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Line a bun tray with 12
paper cases.

2 Sift the flour, cocoa powder, and baking powder together into a
large mixing bowl. Add the softened butter, caster sugar, eggs, and
food colouring. Beat with a wooden spoon, electric hand whisk, or
mixer until well combined. Spoon the mixture into the cupcake
cases, and bake for 15 minutes, or until well risen and the centres
spring back when lightly pressed. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.

3 To make the frosting, place the cream cheese in a bowl and

lightly whip with the icing sugar. Then whisk in the double cream
until soft peaks form.

4 Remove a thin layer of cake from the top of each cupcake,

reserving the scraps. Swirl over the frosting. Crumble the scraps
into crumbs and sprinkle over the frosting to decorate.

FROM Ordinary TO
Extraordinary
For centres exploding with fruitiness, fill each
cake with a berry coulis. Bake the cakes as
instructed and leave to cool. In a heavy-based
saucepan over a medium heat, stir together
250g (9oz) blackcurrants and 60g (2oz) caster
sugar, just until the berries give up their
juices and the sugar dissolves. Leave to cool.
Carefully spoon out a small hole from the
centre of each cake and add 1 tsp coulis into
the holes. Frost as instructed, covering the
coulis, and serve.
Red velvet cupcakes
 Madeleines
You will need a shell-shaped
madeleine mould to make
these tender cakes.
PREPARATION TIME 15–20
minutes
COOKING TIME 10 minutes
MAKES 12

60g (2oz) unsalted butter, melted but not hot, plus extra for
greasing
60g (2oz) plain flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting
60g (2oz) caster sugar
2 eggs
1 tsp vanilla extract
icing sugar, for dusting

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Carefully brush the

moulds with melted butter and dust with flour.

2 Put the sugar, eggs, and vanilla extract into a mixing bowl and
whisk until the mixture is pale, thick, and will hold a trail. This
should take 5 minutes with an electric whisk, or slightly longer if
you are using a hand whisk.

3 Sift the flour over the top and pour the melted butter down the
side of the mixture. Using a large metal spoon, fold them in
carefully and quickly, being careful not to knock out any air.

4 Fill the moulds with the mixture and bake in the oven for 10
minutes. Remove from the oven and transfer to a wire rack to cool,
before dusting with icing sugar.
Madeleines
Shortbread
Handle these biscuits as little as possible for
the ‘shortest’, most crumbly, results.
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 20 minutes
MAKES 10

175g (6oz) unsalted butter, softened

75g (21⁄2oz) caster sugar, plus extra for sprinkling
250g (9oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting
1⁄ tsp salt
2

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). In a large bowl, beat the
butter and sugar together until soft and creamy. Add the flour and
salt, and carefully mix together until well combined and the
mixture forms into a firm dough.

2 Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead gently until
smooth. Roll the dough out to a thickness of 5mm (¼in). Using a
7.5cm (3in) fluted cutter, stamp out 10 rounds.

3 Arrange the shortbread on a large baking tray, spaced slightly

apart. Prick the tops with a fork and bake for 20 minutes, or until
lightly golden. Sprinkle with sugar and allow them to cool on the
baking tray.
 Scones
Try to cut out as many as
possible before re-forming the
dough, as those cut first will
rise highest.
PREPARATION TIME 25 minutes
COOKING TIME 12–15 minutes
MAKES 8

225g (8oz) self-raising flour, plus extra for dusting

1
⁄2 tsp salt
60g (2oz) unsalted butter, cubed
50g (13⁄4oz) sultanas
30g (1oz) caster sugar
150ml (5fl oz) milk, plus extra for brushing
clotted cream and jam, to serve

1 Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F/Gas 7). Sift the flour and the
salt into a large mixing bowl. Rub in the butter with your fingertips,
until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs, then mix in the
sultanas and sugar. Make a well in the centre and pour in the milk,
then stir together, bringing in the flour from the edges, with a knife
or spoon.
2 Turn the soft, sticky dough out onto a lightly floured work
surface. Knead as briefly as possible and flatten to about 2.5cm
(1in) thick.
3 Dip a 6cm (21⁄2in) biscuit cutter in flour, then use to cut rounds
from the dough. Re-form the dough, as necessary, to cut sufficient
scones.
4 Place the scones on a baking tray and brush the tops with a little
milk. Put the tray on the top shelf of the oven and bake for 12–15
minutes, or until golden. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire
rack. Serve while still warm, split and filled with clotted cream and
jam.
Scones
Flapjacks
These chewy bars make a great addition to a
lunch box on a day out walking.
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes, plus cooling
COOKING TIME 40 minutes
MAKES 16–20

225g (8oz) unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing

225g (8oz) light soft brown sugar
2 tbsp golden syrup
350g (12oz) rolled oats

1 Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F/Gas 2). Lightly grease a 25cm

(10in) square cake tin.

2 Put the butter, sugar, and golden syrup in a large saucepan over
a medium-low heat and cook until the butter has melted. Remove
the pan from the heat and stir in the oats.

3 Transfer the mixture to the prepared tin and press down firmly.
Bake for 40 minutes, or until evenly golden and just beginning to
brown at the edges.
4 Leave to cool for 10 minutes, then cut into 16 squares, or 20
rectangles. Leave in the tin until completely cooled.
 Tuile biscuits
These make excellent
finishing touches to most
sweet dishes. Cover the rolling
pin with cling film before
curving them over, or else
mould them into a cling film-
lined muffin mould to make
bowl-shaped tuiles.
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes
COOKING TIME 30 minutes
MAKES 15

50g (1¾oz) unsalted butter, softened

50g (1¾oz) icing sugar
1 egg
50g (1¾oz) plain flour
1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Place the butter and
icing sugar in a bowl, and cream together until light and fluffy.
Beat in the egg and gently fold in the flour.
2 Line a baking tray with baking parchment. Place 1–2 tsp of the
mixture on the lined baking tray and spread it thinly to make a
round 6–8cm (2½–3½in) in diameter. Make another 1 or 2 rounds
on the tray. Bake for 5–8 minutes, or until they just start to turn a
pale golden colour.
3 Remove the baking tray from the oven and, working quickly,
slide a palette knife under the tuiles to release them, then drape
them over a rolling pin so that they cool in a curved shape.
4 Repeat the baking and shaping process with the remaining tuile
mixture.
Tuile biscuits
Goat’s cheese and red
onion tart
LISA FAULKNER
Celebrity champion 2010
PREPARATION TIME 25
minutes, plus chilling
COOKING TIME 55 minutes
SERVES 4
FOR THE PASTRY
small sprig of thyme
100g (31⁄2oz) plain flour
25g (scant 1oz) butter
25g (scant 1oz) lard
FOR THE RED ONION JAM
25g (scant 1oz) butter
25g (scant 1oz) soft brown sugar
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1–2 tbsp cassis
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 red onions, finely sliced
FOR THE GOAT’S CHEESE
175g (6oz) crumbly goat’s cheese
1 egg yolk
1–2 tbsp double cream
FOR THE SALAD
handful of rocket leaves
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tsp lemon juice
1 To make the pastry, strip the thyme leaves into a blender or a
food processor and add the flour, butter, and lard. Mix on the pulse
setting to form crumbs. Gradually add enough cold water (about 2–
3 tbsp) to form a soft dough. Wrap in cling film and chill for 30
minutes.

2 To make the onion jam, melt the butter in a sauté pan and add
the sugar, vinegar, cassis, and some seasoning. Add the onions,
bring to the boil and cook, uncovered, over a very low heat for 30
minutes.

3 Heat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Place a sturdy baking sheet
in the oven. Divide the pastry into quarters, then roll them out, and
use to line four 10cm (4in) loose-bottomed tart tins. Line with
greaseproof paper and baking beans. Place on the heated baking
sheet and cook for 10 minutes. Remove the beans and lining paper
and return to the oven for 5 minutes. Leave to cool for a few
minutes.

4 Trim away any rind on the goat’s cheese and crumble the cheese
into a bowl. Mix with the egg yolk and a splash of cream. Season
with salt and pepper.
5 Reserve about a third of the red onion jam to use as garnish,
then divide the rest between the tartlets and spoon the goat’s
cheese mixture on top. Return to the oven for 7–8 minutes, or until
the tops are bubbling and tinged with brown.

6 For the salad, rinse the rocket leaves and pat dry. Pour the olive
oil and lemon juice into a bowl, and season with plenty of salt and
pepper. Add the rocket leaves and toss gently to coat.
7 To serve, place a spoonful of red onion jam on the centre of each
plate. Carefully remove the tarts from their tins and sit them on
top of the jam. Top with rocket salad and serve.
Goat’s cheese and red onion tart
Wonton soup
PING COOMBES
Champion 2014
PREPARATION TIME 45
minutes, plus soaking and
marinating
COOKING TIME 45 minutes
SERVES 4
FOR THE DUMPLINGS
25g (scant 1oz) dried shiitake mushrooms
150g (51⁄2oz) fresh white crab meat
150g (51⁄2oz) minced pork, not lean
1 tsp chicken stock granules
1
⁄4 tsp freshly ground white pepper
1 tsp cornflour
1
⁄2 tsp sesame oil
1 tsp plus 1 tbsp light soy sauce
11⁄2 tsp caster sugar
150g (51⁄2oz) fresh fine egg noodles
FOR THE MUSHROOM SOUP
100g (31⁄2oz) dried shiitake mushrooms
1 chicken carcass
1 tbsp flavourless vegetable oil
100g (31⁄2oz) Chinese leaf stalks, shredded
1 tsp chicken stock granules
1 tsp black rice vinegar
4–6 Chinese leaves (trimmed of stalk, keep the stalks for the soup),
shredded
80g (23⁄4oz) enoki mushrooms
FOR THE GARLIC OIL
3 tbsp vegetable oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
FOR THE PICKLED MUSHROOMS
100ml (31⁄2fl oz) rice vinegar
2 tbsp granulated sugar
handful of shimeji mushrooms, broken into bite-sized pieces
TO SERVE
flavourless vegetable oil, for deep-frying
30g (1oz) wonton skins, cut into strips
2 spring onions, green part only, finely sliced
3–4 pickled chillies, finely chopped
1 Soak the dried shiitake mushrooms for both the dumplings and
for the soup in 2 bowls of hot water for 30 minutes, then drain.
Very finely chop the mushrooms for the dumplings, but leave the
mushrooms for the soup whole.

2 Meanwhile, marinate the crab and pork with the stock granules,
white pepper, cornflour, sesame oil, 1 tsp of the soy sauce, and 1⁄2
tsp of the sugar. Stir in the finely chopped mushrooms.

3 Make the garlic oil: heat up the oil in a frying pan and throw in
the garlic. Fry for 3 minutes, or until the garlic turns a light shade
of brown. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool, then strain
to remove the garlic.

4 Blanch the noodles for 1 minute, then plunge them into cold
water to stop the cooking. Drain very well, then marinate with the
remaining 1 tbsp of soy sauce, 1 tsp of sugar, and 1 tsp of the garlic
oil, but make sure the mixture is not too wet.
5 Make 12 small quenelles of the crab and pork mixture and
carefully wrap each in noodles. Set aside.
6 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Cut the chicken carcass
in half and roast it in the oven for 10 minutes. In a saucepan, heat
the oil and sauté the soaked, drained shiitake mushrooms and
Chinese leaf stalks, then add the roast carcass and pour in 1.5
litres (23⁄4 pints) water. Cover and boil for 10 minutes, then pass
through a sieve into a clean saucepan. Reduce by half to 1 litre (13⁄4
pints) and add the stock granules. Remove from the heat and add
the vinegar, Chinese leaves, and enoki mushrooms.
7 For the pickled mushrooms, gently heat the vinegar and sugar
together, just until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat,
add the mushroom pieces, and leave to pickle for at least 20
minutes.

8 Set up a steamer and steam the noodle-wrapped dumplings for

10 minutes.

9 Meanwhile, heat the oil for deep-frying to 180°C (350°F). Deep-fry

the wonton skins for 1–2 minutes until golden, then remove with a
slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.

10 Divide the spring onions and pickled chillies between 4 bowls.

Assemble the steamed, noodle-wrapped wontons on top and serve
with the pickled shimeji mushrooms and the mushroom soup. Top
with the crispy wonton skins.
Wonton soup
 Thai prawn soup with
lemongrass
IWAN THOMAS
Celebrity finalist 2009
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes
COOKING TIME 15 minutes
SERVES 4

16 large raw tiger prawns, shells on

1 litre (13⁄4 pints) chicken stock
2 stalks fresh lemongrass, lightly pounded, cut into 2.5cm (1in)
lengths
50g (13⁄4oz) fresh galangal, sliced
10 kaffir lime leaves, shredded
500g (1lb 2oz) enoki mushrooms
4 tbsp nam pla (Thai fish sauce)
3 tbsp nam prik pao (chilli paste in oil)
4 tbsp lime juice
5 fresh Thai (bird’s eye) chillies, crushed
TO GARNISH
10g (1⁄4oz) coriander, torn
1 small red pepper, deseeded and cut into fine ribbons

1 Wash the prawns and shell them without removing the tails.
2 Bring the chicken stock to the boil in a large saucepan. Add the
lemongrass, galangal, and lime leaves.

3 Bring back to the boil, then add the enoki mushrooms, nam pla,
nam prik pao, and lime juice. Add the prawns and fresh chillies.
4 As soon as the prawns turn pink (about 2 minutes), serve the
soup garnished with the coriander and strips of red pepper.
Thai prawn soup with lemongrass
Open lasagne of
roasted squash and
wild mushrooms with
sage butter
TIM KINNAIRD
Finalist 2010
PREPARATION TIME 1 hour 15
minutes
COOKING TIME 1 hour
SERVES 4
FOR THE PASTA
good pinch of saffron strands
150g (51⁄2oz) tipo “00” flour
salt
1 large egg
1 egg yolk
FOR THE SQUASH
1 small Crown Prince squash, peeled and seeded, about 350g
(12oz) peeled weight, and cut into bite-sized pieces
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1
⁄4–1⁄2 tsp chilli flakes
FOR THE MUSHROOMS
knob of butter
200g (7oz) mixed wild mushrooms, such as girolles, porcini, and
pied blue, wiped and evenly chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
3 tbsp Marsala wine
2–3 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
100ml (31⁄2fl oz) double cream
FOR THE SAGE BUTTER
75g (21⁄2oz) unsalted butter
small bunch of fresh sage, leaves only

1 Preheat the oven to 220ºC (425°F/Gas 7). Soak the saffron in 2 tsp
warm water for 10 minutes. Make the pasta dough, adding the
saffron and water to the dough with the eggs.

2 Put the squash on a baking tray, drizzle with the olive oil, and
scatter over the salt, pepper, and chilli flakes. Roast for 35 minutes
or until soft and tinged with brown. Shake the tin occasionally for
even roasting.
3 To cook the mushrooms, melt the butter in a large sauté pan
until it foams, add the mushrooms and salt and pepper, and fry
over high heat for 4–5 minutes or until just turning golden. Reduce
the heat to medium, add the garlic, and fry for 1 minute. Add the
Marsala and bubble for a few minutes. Stir in the parsley and
cream and set aside.
4 For the sage butter, melt the butter in a heavy pan and cook
gently until it turns a warm nutty brown. Take care not to burn it.
Set aside.

5 Divide the dough into 2 and roll into sheets.

6 Bring a pan of water to the boil. Brush off the excess flour from
the pasta, place in the water, and boil for 4–5 minutes or until al
dente. Drain in a colander and then cut out twelve 8cm (3in)
diameter circles using an oiled round pastry cutter. Brush with
olive oil and set aside.
7 Just before serving, tear up nearly all the sage leaves and add to
the cooled butter. Warm gently for 1–2 minutes and also warm the
mushroom mixture and squash. Stack up the pasta separated by a
layer of squash and a layer of mushrooms. Spoon over the sage
butter and garnish with the remaining sage.
PASTA, NOODLES, AND GNOCCHI KNOW-HOW:
see Make pasta dough
Open lasagne of roasted squash and wild
mushrooms with sage butter
Roast tomato arancini
with a basil-yogurt
dressing
LUKE OWEN
Finalist 2014
PREPARATION TIME 1 hour
COOKING TIME 1 hour
SERVES 4
FOR THE ARANCINI
300g (101⁄2oz) piccolo tomatoes
2 tbsp olive oil, plus more for roasting the tomatoes
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 banana shallots, finely chopped
1 large celery stick, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
150g (51⁄2oz) arborio rice
100ml (31⁄2fl oz) white wine
500ml (18fl oz) tomato passata
100g (31⁄2oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting
12 mozzarella pearls (mini mozzarella balls)
1 large egg, lightly beaten
100g (31⁄2oz) panko breadcrumbs, for coating
light olive oil, for deep-frying
FOR THE DRESSING
large bunch of basil, plus extra leaves to serve
11⁄2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
300g (10oz) Greek yogurt
English mustard, to taste
lemon juice, to taste
TO SERVE
12 piccolo tomatoes (about 2 sprigs on the vine)
200g (7oz) crème fraîche

1 For the arancini, preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Place
the tomatoes for both the arancini and for serving in 2 baking
trays, keeping them separate, removing them from the vines but
leaving the vines in the tray for flavour. Lightly oil and salt them,
then roast for 40 minutes.

2 Pour 2 tbsp olive oil into a wide frying pan. Add the shallots,
celery, and garlic and sweat over a low heat for 5 minutes with a
good pinch of salt until all the ingredients are soft and translucent.
Add the rice and stir so that the oil coats all the grains. Increase
the temperature to medium-high and add the wine. Allow the wine
to mostly disappear, then add one-quarter of the passata. Stir
gently until the risotto just begins to dry out, then add another
one-quarter of the passata. Repeat until it is all used. Take the
roast tomatoes for the arancini, squash with a fork or potato
masher, and add to the risotto.

3 Continue to cook, adding up to 200ml (7fl oz) boiling water, a

ladleful at a time, until the rice is almost cooked and the risotto is
thick. Taste and season. Quickly cool by plunging the base of the
saucepan into a sink of ice-cold water.

4 Divide the mixture into 12 equal portions. With lightly floured

hands, shape one portion of the cooled mixture into a ball around
a mozzarella pearl. Repeat to make 12 risotto balls. Place the flour,
egg, and panko crumbs in 3 separate shallow dishes. Coat each
risotto ball in flour, then egg, then breadcrumbs. Cover the
arancini and leave the coating to set in the fridge for at least 30
minutes.
5 Once set, heat the olive oil for deep-frying in a deep-fat fryer or a
large saucepan to 180°C (350°F). Deep-fry the arancini over a
medium-low heat for 4 minutes in batches of 4. Once crisp and
golden, remove with a slotted spoon, blot off excess oil on kitchen
paper, and season with salt.

6 For the dressing, reserve a few basil leaves for serving, then
blend the remaining basil with the oil in a blender or food
processor until as smooth as possible. Add the yogurt and season
with salt, English mustard, and a touch of lemon juice.

7 To serve, drizzle the plates with the basil-yogurt dressing, Place 3

arancini on each plate and top each with a spoon of crème fraîche.
Add the reserved basil leaves and roasted tomatoes to finish.
Roast tomato arancini with a basil-yogurt dressing
Mushroom ravioli
with truffle, Pecorino,
and sage
DALE WILLIAMS
Finalist 2013
PREPARATION TIME 35
minutes, plus chilling
COOKING TIME 15 minutes
SERVES 4
FOR THE PASTA
100g (31⁄2oz) ‘00’ pasta flour, plus extra for dusting
1 egg, plus 1 egg yolk
pinch of sea salt
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
FOR THE FILLING
250g (9oz) chestnut mushrooms
freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp salted butter
1
⁄2 shallot, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 tbsp finely chopped parsley leaves
1 tsp finely chopped thyme leaves
1 tsp truffle oil, plus extra to serve
40g (11⁄2oz) good-quality cream cheese
1 tsp Dijon mustard
TO SERVE
75g (21⁄2oz) best-quality sea salted butter
10 sage leaves
juice of 1⁄2 lemon
Pecorino shavings, to taste
truffle shavings, to taste

1 To make the pasta, place the flour on a work surface and make a
well in the centre. Add the egg, egg yolk, salt, and oil. Use a fork to
gently mix the flour and liquid in circular motions until it is all
incorporated. Use your hands to bring the dough together and
knead for 10 minutes until rich in colour, firm and elastic. Wrap in
cling film and chill for 20–30 minutes.

2 For the filling, brush any dirt from the mushrooms with a firm
brush. Place them in a food processor and pulse for a maximum of
10 seconds into a coarse crumb.

3 Add the mushrooms to a dry non-stick pan over a medium heat

and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 6–8 minutes, stirring
occasionally, or until they have shrunk to half their original size
and excess water has evaporated. Push them to the side of the pan
and add the butter, shallot, garlic, and herbs. Let them sizzle for 2
minutes, then stir in the mushrooms. Cook over a low heat for a
further minute or so or until any liquid evaporates. Transfer to a
bowl. Stir in the truffle oil, cream cheese, and mustard, mix well,
then chill.

4 Remove the pasta dough from the fridge and place on a floured
work surface. Roll it out to a long rectangle around 1cm (1⁄2in) thick.
Clamp a pasta machine to your worktop and work the dough to
around 1mm (1⁄32in) thick. Take care not to split the dough, and be
patient as it is worth the effort.
5 When you have a sheet of dough around 1 metre (3ft 3in) long
and 12–15cm (5–6in) wide, place it on a floured work surface. With
a teaspoon, place mounds of filling 2cm (3⁄4in) from one edge of the
pasta dough, along the length of the dough. Fold the dough
lengthways over the filling, encasing the ravioli, and use your
hands to shape them into small domes, pressing the edges well.
Using a ravioli cutter, cut out 12–16 perfectly trimmed ravioli. Place
on a clean plate dusted with flour and refrigerate until needed.

6 Take the ravioli from the fridge 10–15 minutes before you plan to
cook, to allow them to come to room temperature. Bring a large
saucepan of lightly salted water to the boil.
7 Meanwhile, divide the butter between 2 separate large sauté
pans, heat until lightly foaming, and add the sage leaves and a
generous squeeze of lemon juice.

8 Gently drop the ravioli into the boiling water a few at a time, and
simmer for 3–4 minutes until cooked. Remove them with a slotted
spoon and divide between the pans of sage butter. Toss the ravioli
in the butter, before dividing between serving plates with a bit of
sage butter and crispy sage on each.
9 Dress with Pecorino and truffle shavings and finish with extra
truffle oil and black pepper.

PASTA, NOODLES, AND GNOCCHI KNOW-HOW:

see Use a pasta machine
PASTA, NOODLES, AND GNOCCHI KNOW-HOW:
see Assemble ravioli
Mushroom ravioli with truffle, Pecorino, and sage
 Lamb samosas
DAKSHA MISTRY
Finalist 2006
PREPARATION TIME 50 minutes
COOKING TIME 15 minutes
SERVES 4

250g (9oz) minced lamb

1⁄ onion, finely chopped
2
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1⁄ tsp curry powder
2
1⁄ tsp chilli powder
4
1
⁄2 tsp ground turmeric
1⁄ tsp ground roasted cumin seeds
4
1⁄ green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
2
1 tbsp chopped coriander
1⁄ tsp grated fresh root ginger
4
1⁄ tsp salt
2

freshly ground black pepper

squeeze of lemon juice
1 litre (13⁄4 pints) sunflower oil, for deep-frying
4 sprigs of coriander, to garnish
FOR THE PASTRY
115g (4oz) plain flour
1 tsp salt
1 tbsp sunflower oil
about 3 tbsp warm water
1 To make the pastry, mix the flour and salt in a bowl. Make a well
in the centre and add the oil and enough water to make a firm
dough. Knead the dough on a floured surface until smooth and roll
into a ball. Cover in cling film and set aside at room temperature
for 30 minutes.

2 For the filling, put all the ingredients except the oil and coriander
sprigs into a bowl and mix thoroughly with your hands.

3 Divide the pastry into 6 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball
and cover with cling film to stop them from drying out. Roll each
ball of pastry into a 12.5cm (5in) circle and then divide into 2 equal
semicircles with a knife.

4 Place a level tbsp of the mixture on one half circle of the

semicircle of pastry. Then fold the other half circle across the
filling to form a triangle. Dampen the edges with water and gently
seal the open edges. Repeat for the other samosas.

5 Heat the oil in a large saucepan. To test when the oil is hot
enough, drop a small piece of bread into it and as soon as it starts
to sizzle, remove it and start frying the samosas, 4 at a time. Cook
each batch for about 5 minutes, turning occasionally, or until the
samosas are crisp and brown. Remove them from the pan, drain on
kitchen paper, and serve 2 or 3 samosas per person while still
warm, garnished with the coriander.

VEGETABLES KNOW-HOW: see Deseed and cut

chillies
Lamb samosas
 Scallops with beetroot
pearls, black quinoa,
and radish and fennel
pickle
EMMA SPITZER
Finalist 2015
PREPARATION TIME 1 hour,
plus chilling and marinating
COOKING TIME 25 minutes
SERVES 4

6 scallops
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
a few drops of black pepper oil
a few drops of lemon oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
juice of 1 lime
100g (31⁄2oz) black quinoa
1⁄ cucumber
2
sumac, micro-coriander and red amaranth, to serve
FOR THE BEETROOT PEARLS
olive oil
150ml (5fl oz) beetroot juice
3 tsp agar agar flakes
FOR THE PICKLED VEGETABLES
100ml (31⁄2fl oz) attika vinegar
100g (31⁄2oz) granulated sugar
1 fennel bulb
3 radishes
1 small beetroot
FOR THE DRESSING
1 bunch of coriander
1 garlic clove
100ml (31⁄2fl oz) olive oil
1 tsp roasted and finely crushed caraway seeds
2 lightly bruised cardamom pods
1⁄ tsp crushed peppercorns
2

1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped

juice of 1 lemon, plus lemon segments from 1 lemon

1 Trim the scallops of roe. Heat the extra virgin olive oil, black
pepper oil, lemon oil, and a pinch of salt in a frying pan over a
medium-high heat. Fry the scallops, turning once, for 1 minute
each side, until golden but not overcooked. Reserve 2 scallops and
finely chop the rest.

2 To make the beetroot pearls, put a tall glass of olive oil into the
freezer for 1 hour. Mix the beetroot juice in a saucepan with the
agar agar flakes and bring to the boil. Boil until the flakes dissolve,
around 5 minutes. Let the liquid stand for another 5 minutes, or
until it reaches 50°C (122°F). Put it into a syringe and add droplets
to the cold oil to make the pearls. Drain the pearls from the oil and
set aside.

3 For the pickled vegetables, combine the attika vinegar and sugar
with 200ml (7fl oz) water in a saucepan. Gently heat the mixture
until the sugar has dissolved, then set aside to cool slightly. Finely
slice the fennel with a mandolin and place in a bowl. Repeat for the
radishes and beetroot. Divide the slightly cooled pickling liquid
between each bowl and set them aside.

4 For the dressing, trim and clean the roots of the coriander and
place into a food processor. Crush the garlic with 1⁄4 tsp salt in a
mortar and pestle and add to the coriander with 2 tbsp of water.
Whizz to a purée. Put the olive oil into a mixing bowl and whisk in
the coriander purée. Add the caraway seeds, cardamom pods,
peppercorns, chilli, lemon juice, and lemon segments. Stir together
and taste for seasoning, adding more salt if needed.

5 Finely slice the 2 reserved scallops horizontally. Add some lime

juice to the sliced scallops and set aside. Boil the quinoa in water
for about 15 minutes until cooked but still retaining a slight bite.
Drain off any excess water.

6 Peel, deseed, and very finely chop the cucumber and mix with
the chopped scallops. Add some of the dressing to the mix and set
aside to let the flavours infuse.

7 To serve, place a line of dressing down the centre of each plate.

Sprinkle some quinoa over the top and dot the pickled vegetables
down each line of dressing. Divide the beetroot pearls, the
cucumber and scallop mixture, and finally the slices of scallops
between the plates. Sprinkle with sumac and garnish with micro-
herbs.

SHELLFISH KNOW-HOW: see Prepare scallops

FLAVOURINGS KNOW-HOW: see Prepare spices
FRUITS AND NUTS KNOW-HOW: see Segment
citrus fruit
Scallops with beetroot pearls, black quinoa, and
radish and fennel pickle
 Smoked mackerel pâté
Inspired by STEVEN WALLIS
Champion 2007
PREPARATION TIME 20
minutes, plus chilling
SERVES 4

250g (9oz) cold-smoked mackerel fillets

50g (13⁄4oz) crème fraîche
25g (scant 1oz) mascarpone cheese
3 stems of fennel fronds, plus extra to garnish
grated zest and juice of 1 lime
grated zest of 1⁄2 orange
fleur de sel
1⁄ tsp coriander seeds, toasted
2
3 tbsp hazelnut oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1⁄ tsp sugar
2
4 tsp Muscat vinegar
3 chicory heads
25g (scant 1oz) hazelnuts, toasted and finely chopped
baby chervil, to garnish
pea shoot tendrils, to garnish

1 Finely pick through the smoked mackerel to remove any bones,

remove the skin, and break the flesh into pieces in a food
processor. Add the crème fraîche, mascarpone cheese, fennel
fronds, lime and orange zest, and the lime juice. Season with the
fleur de sel and blend to a smooth pâté consistency. Chill for 30
minutes.
2 To prepare the vinaigrette, mix together the coriander seeds and
hazelnut oil, season with salt and pepper, and add the sugar. Then
add the Muscat vinegar, whisk well, and set aside.

3 To serve, trim the chicory leaves by cutting a good third of the

leaves from the end. Allow 3 leaves per person. Spoon in a neat
quenelle of pâté onto the cut end of each leaf. Drizzle over the
vinaigrette, and scatter over the chopped hazelnuts. Finish with a
pinch of fleur de sel and baby chervil leaves, fennel fronds, and pea
shoot tendrils.
Smoked mackerel pâté
 Smoked haddock
timbale with poached
quail’s egg
CHRISTINE HAMILTON
Celebrity finalist 2010
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 30 minutes
SERVES 4

4 baby beetroots (or 1 mature beetroot, peeled and quartered)

salt and freshly ground black pepper
splash of olive oil
2–3 sprigs of thyme (optional)
butter, for greasing
150g (51⁄2oz) smoked haddock fillet, skin removed
400ml (14fl oz) double cream
4 egg yolks
2 tbsp chopped dill
2 tbsp chopped chives
4 quail’s eggs
FOR THE SALAD DRESSING
1 tbsp lemon juice
1⁄ tbsp olive oil
2
1
⁄2 tbsp walnut oil
1⁄ tbsp wholegrain mustard
2

1 tbsp caster sugar

ground black pepper
TO SERVE
small bag of rocket and watercress
50g (13⁄4oz) walnut pieces

1 Preheat the oven to 170°C (340°F/Gas 3–4). Season the whole

baby beetroots or mature beetroot quarters with salt and pepper
and wrap tightly in kitchen foil with olive oil and thyme (if using).
Roast in a corner of the oven for 30 minutes.

2 Butter 4 timbale moulds. Poach the haddock lightly for 2–3

minutes in 200ml (7fl oz) of cream. Drain and reserve the cream.

3 In a bowl, whisk together the reserved and remaining cream, egg

yolks, dill, chives, and a good pinch of black pepper.

4 Break the haddock into pieces with a fork and divide between the
timbale moulds. Pour the cream mixture into each mould.

5 Place the moulds in a deep roasting tray or oven dish. Add 3–4cm
(11⁄4–11⁄2in) of water to the tray or dish before placing it in the
preheated oven on a high shelf. Bake for 20 minutes, or until the
timbales are set and do not wobble when moved.

6 Meanwhile, poach the quail’s eggs by breaking each gently into a

pan of just-simmering water and poaching for 30 seconds. When
cooked, plunge into iced water.
7 In a small bowl, whisk together all the ingredients for the lemon
and walnut dressing.
8 Remove the timbales from the oven and allow to cool before
unmoulding. Arrange the dressed salad leaves on each plate, with
the beetroot, and sprinkle over the finely chopped walnut. Position
a timbale in the centre and place a poached quail’s egg on top.
Smoked haddock timbale with poached quail’s egg
 Crispy squid with
green peppercorn and
chilli dressing
SUSIE CARTER
Quarter-finalist 2006
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 5 minutes
SERVES 4

4 medium squid, cleaned

juice of 1 lime
salt and freshly ground black pepper
groundnut oil, for deep-frying
3 tbsp cornflour
FOR THE DRESSING
2 tbsp fresh green peppercorns
1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
3cm (11⁄4in) piece fresh root ginger, finely grated
2 garlic cloves, crushed
3 tbsp nam pla (Thai fish sauce)
3 tbsp rice vinegar
75g (21⁄2oz) caster sugar
2 tsp soy sauce
juice of 1 lime
TO SERVE
4 slices of lime
coriander leaves

1 To make the dressing, put all the ingredients in a small pan and
simmer, stirring, until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture has
thickened. Leave to cool.

2 Open out the body sac of the squid and cut each one into about 8
rectangles. With the inside facing up, score a diamond pattern with
a sharp knife, taking care not to cut all the way through. Douse
with lime juice, season well with salt and pepper, and leave to cure
for 2 minutes.
3 Heat plenty of groundnut oil in a large saucepan or deep fat fryer
to 180°C (350°F).
4 Dry the squid thoroughly on kitchen paper then toss with the
cornflour. Shake off the excess and deep fry in batches for 2
minutes until golden and crisp. Drain on kitchen paper then
quickly toss with a few spoonfuls of the dressing and serve
immediately with a slice of lime on the side and coriander to
garnish.

SHELLFISH KNOW-HOW: see Clean squid

Crispy squid with green peppercorn and chilli
dressing
 Sea bass with sweet
potato, porcini, Parma
ham, and figs
TONY RODD
Finalist 2015
PREPARATION TIME 45 minutes
COOKING TIME 30 minutes
SERVES 4

50g (13⁄4oz) dried porcini mushrooms

a little unsalted butter
olive oil
2–4 figs, quartered
50g (13⁄4oz) Parma ham, chopped
micro red amaranth
FOR THE FIG JUS
sea bass bones, or other fish bones
50g (13⁄4oz) unsalted butter
1 banana shallot, chopped
3 lemon thyme sprigs
100ml (31⁄2fl oz) chicken stock
2 figs, halved
FOR THE SWEET POTATO PURÉE
1 large sweet potato
100g (31⁄2oz) unsalted butter
150ml (5fl oz) double cream
FOR THE SEA BASS
2 x 100g (31⁄2oz) sea bass fillets
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
dash of vegetable oil
25g (scant 1oz) unsalted butter
juice of 1⁄2 lemon

1 Soak the mushrooms in just-boiled water for 30 minutes, then

rinse well to remove any grit.

2 Meanwhile, prepare the fig jus: cook the fish bones in a little of
the butter and add the shallot. Add water to cover and simmer
over a low heat for 20 minutes (no longer, or the stock will start to
take on a bitter taste). Pass through a sieve, then reduce the stock
in a saucepan with the lemon thyme. Add the chicken stock and
halved figs and reduce further. Pass through a sieve and add the
remaining butter to finish.

3 For the sweet potato purée, cut the sweet potato into cubes and
soften in a saucepan with a little of the butter. Add the cream and
simmer for 20 minutes. Blend and pass through a fine sieve.
Season and add the remaining butter.

4 Cut the soaked mushrooms into small pieces and fry in a

saucepan in a little butter over a medium heat. Heat a little oil in
another saucepan and fry the fig quarters, flesh-side down, until
cooked.
5 To prepare the sea bass, cut each fillet in half and season with
salt and pepper. Heat the vegetable oil in a hot pan and place the
fish skin-side down in the pan. Add the butter to the pan and
baste. Flip the fillets, cook for 1–2 minutes, then remove from the
pan. Squeeze some lemon juice on top.

6 To serve, divide the sweet potato purée between 4 plates. Add a

fish fillet to each plate, then garnish with the porcini, ham, herbs,
and fried fig quarters. Spoon on the fig jus, or serve it on the side.
Sea bass with sweet potato, porcini, Parma ham, and
figs
 Winkles, cockles, and
mussels on toast,
langoustines, and
saffron mayonnaise
JANE DEVONSHIRE
Champion 2016
PREPARATION TIME 1 hour
COOKING TIME 55 minutes
SERVES 6

500g (1lb 2oz) cockles

500g (1lb 2oz) mussels
2 tbsp plain flour
500g (1lb 2oz) winkles, preferably live
1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for the dressing
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
250ml (9fl oz) dry white wine
big bunch of flat-leaf parsley, reserving a few finely chopped
leaves to serve
lemon juice, for the dressing
sea salt, to taste
FOR THE MAYONNAISE
1 garlic bulb
250ml (9fl oz) flavourless oil, plus extra to drizzle; I use sunflower
oil
5–6 saffron threads
2 large egg yolks
1 tbsp lemon juice, or to taste
FOR THE TEMPURA
6 langoustines
50g (13⁄4oz) cornflour
75g (21⁄2oz) plain flour
1 tsp baking powder
100ml (31⁄2fl oz) ice-cold sparkling water or soda water
vegetable oil, for deep-frying
6 caperberries
TO SERVE
loaf of good-quality white bread
micro garlic chives (optional)
micro red amaranth (optional)
1 Put the cockles and mussels in a large bowl of water with 1 tbsp
of flour and leave in a cool place for at least 2 hours to flush out
the grit. Repeat for the winkles, using a separate bowl.

2 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). To make the

mayonnaise, slice the top from the garlic bulb to reveal the tops of
each clove. Place on a sheet of foil and drizzle with oil. Seal the foil
loosely, then bake for 40 minutes, or until the garlic is soft.
Squeeze the roasted garlic from the skins. Meanwhile, put the
saffron in a small bowl with a little warm water and leave for 20
minutes.

3 Put the egg yolks into the bowl and whisk until the mixture is
light, fluffy, and paler. Very carefully whisk in half the oil. Once the
mixture is thickening, mix in 1 tbsp warm saffron water; you will
see the mixture loosening. Slowly add the remaining oil, followed
by lemon juice and salt to taste. Mix in one-quarter of the roast
garlic, or to taste, and the saffron. If it is a little thick, use the
remaining saffron water to loosen it.

4 Rinse the cockles and mussels well. Discard any that are
cracked, or do not shut when tapped sharply. Put the olive oil into
a sauté pan, add the garlic and cook for up to 1 minute, or until
aromatic but without colour. Add the wine and cook for 2–3
minutes, or until boiling and the strong alcohol smell has gone.
Add the cockles, mussels, and half the parsley. Cover and cook for
2–3 minutes or until the shellfish open (discard any that do not
open). Strain, reserving the cooking liquor. Remove the cockles and
mussels from their shells and dress with olive oil, a little lemon
juice, and chopped parsley.
5 Boil the winkles in salted water for 3–4 minutes. Plunge into iced
water, then remove from their shells: put a large pin under the
“foot” (the hard bit) and twist so the meat comes out in one piece.
Remove the foot and place the winkles into a bowl.

6 Put the reserved cockle and mussel liquor into a saucepan to

boil. Add the remaining parsley sprigs until wilted, then remove
and plunge into iced water to retain their colour. Finely chop half
the wilted parsley and add to the winkles. Put the remaining wilted
parsley in a blender and, using a little of the cooking liquor, blend
to a purée. Mix into the winkles.

7 To make the tempura, remove the langoustines from their shells:

twist off the heads and use a pair of scissors to cut either side of
the sharp shell, leaving all the meat undamaged. Whisk together
the flours, baking powder, and sparkling water to make a batter
that coats a finger. Bring the oil for deep-frying to 180°C (350°F). If
you do not have a thermometer, test with a little batter: if it sinks,
then rises golden and crisp, it is ready.
8 Toast the bread and cut into 12 “soldiers”. Pile mussels and
cockles on half of the toasts, divide between 6 plates, and dress
with micro garlic chives, if using. Pile the winkles onto the other 6
toasts and divide them between the plates, too. Smear a little
mayonnaise on each plate and sprinkle with amaranth, if using.

9 Coat the langoustines in batter and drop into the oil. Leave to
turn deep golden, then remove with a slotted spoon and place on
kitchen paper to blot off excess oil. Repeat with the caperberries.
Add to the plates and serve.
Winkles, cockles, and mussels on toast, langoustines,
and saffron mayonnaise
Spinach and ricotta
ravioli with walnut
pesto and a cream and
basil sauce
CHRIS GATES
Finalist 2009
PREPARATION TIME 1 hour 15
minutes
COOKING TIME 1 hour
SERVES 4
FOR THE PASTA
150g (51⁄2oz) tipo “00” flour, plus extra to dust
350g (12oz) semolina flour
2 large eggs
10 egg yolks
FOR THE FILLING
20g (3⁄4oz) butter
200g (7oz) spinach
salt and freshly ground black pepper
350g (12oz) ricotta or soft goat’s cheese
grated zest of 1 lemon
FOR THE PESTO
30g (1oz) walnuts
1 bunch of basil
1 garlic clove, chopped
25g (scant 1oz) Parmesan cheese, freshly grated
olive oil
FOR THE SAUCE
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 tbsp olive oil
500ml (16fl oz) double cream
juice of 1 lemon
1 To make the pasta, blitz all of the ingredients in a food processor
until you have a mixture the consistency of breadcrumbs. Empty
onto a floured surface and knead into a silky dough. Wrap in cling
film and leave to rest in the refrigerator for about 1 hour.

2 Meanwhile, make the filling. Melt the butter in a large pan and
wilt the spinach. Season with salt and pepper. Squeeze out any
water and place in a bowl. Add the ricotta and lemon zest and
season to taste.

3 For the pesto, toast the walnuts in a dry pan until golden. Using
a pestle and mortar, break them up with the garlic and basil
leaves, reserving the stalks. Add the Parmesan, loosen with oil, and
season.

4 For the cream sauce, sauté the chopped shallot in a pan with the
oil until softened. Add the reserved basil stalks and soften for 3–4
minutes. Add the cream and allow to reduce slightly. Season with
salt and pepper and add the lemon juice.

5 Using a pasta machine, roll out the pasta to the thinnest setting.
Make 2 rectangular dough sheets. Place scoops of the filling on top
of the first dough sheet at intervals about 5cm (2in) apart. Brush
round the filling with a little water and top with the second sheet
of dough. Using your fingers, press round the filling to remove any
air. Cut out the ravioli, using a fluted pastry cutter about 5cm (2in)
in diameter.
6 Cook the ravioli in boiling salted water for about 5 minutes.
Drain and serve on warm plates with the cream sauce and pesto
spooned over and a scattering of basil leaves as a garnish.
PASTA, NOODLES, AND GNOCCHI KNOW-HOW:
see Use a pasta machine
PASTA, NOODLES, AND GNOCCHI KNOW-HOW:
see Assemble ravioli
Spinach and ricotta ravioli with walnut pesto and a
cream and basil sauce
Scallop and
langoustine tortellini
with a prawn bisque
sauce and crackling
LUKE OWEN
Finalist 2014
PREPARATION TIME 1 hour
COOKING TIME 1 hour
SERVES 4
FOR THE CRACKLING
200g (7oz) pork skin, from the belly
a little olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE WHITE TORTELLINI
100g (31⁄2oz) ‘00’ flour, plus extra for dusting
1 egg
1
⁄4 tsp fennel seeds
50ml (13⁄4fl oz) white wine
50g (13⁄4oz) Gruyère cheese
pinch of English mustard powder
handful of curly parsley, finely chopped
1 tsp plain flour
juice of 1⁄2 lemon, or to taste
FOR THE BLACK TORTELLINI
105g (31⁄2oz) ‘00’ flour
1 egg
4g packet squid ink
12 queen scallops, trimmed of roe
25ml (scant 1oz) double cream
FOR THE BISQUE SAUCE
12 king prawns with shells
200ml (7fl oz) olive oil
4 shallots, roughly chopped
2 carrots, roughly chopped
2 fennel bulbs, roughly chopped
2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
bunch of tarragon
1 tbsp paprika
large pinch of cayenne pepper
2 tbsp tomato purée
1⁄ tsp harissa paste
2

100ml (31⁄2fl oz) brandy

100ml (31⁄2fl oz) white wine
500ml (18fl oz) fish stock
500ml (18fl oz) chicken stock
Tabasco sauce, to taste
juice of 1⁄2 lemon, to taste
75ml (21⁄2fl oz) double cream
TO SERVE
8 scallops, with roe
a little olive oil
knob of unsalted butter
fennel fronds
1 Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F/Gas 7). Score the pork skin,
brush with oil, salt generously, then put on a trivet in a roasting tin
and roast for 40–50 minutes until golden and crisp. Set aside.
2 Meanwhile, for the white tortellini dough, put the ‘00’ flour and
egg in a food processor and blend until it comes together as a
dough. Dust with flour, wrap in cling film, and chill for at least 1
hour. Lightly toast the fennel seeds in a dry saucepan over a
medium-high heat. Add the wine and reduce by half, then
gradually add the Gruyère over a low heat, constantly stirring to
prevent the mix from splitting. Once it is glossy, stir in the mustard
powder, parsley, flour, and lemon juice to taste. Chill.

3 Make the black tortellini dough as for the white tortellini dough,
adding the squid ink to the mixture, then chill. For the filling, dry
the scallops on kitchen paper and place in a cold food processor.
Add the cream, salt and pepper, blend until smooth, then chill.

4 Roll out the white tortellini dough using a pasta machine. Lay
out the strip of pasta and cut into 16 squares. Place 1 tsp of the
filling in the centre of 1 square. With a point facing you, dab the 2
sides furthest from you with water, then fold the corner facing you
to meet the furthest corner. Use your fingers to seal 1 side first,
then push the air out before sealing the other side. On the side now
facing you, take the right hand corner and pull across to the
opposite corner, dab the left corner with water and pull it, too,
across, then stick them together. Repeat for the remaining white
tortellini, then repeat the whole process with the black tortellini
dough.
5 For the sauce, shell the prawns and fry the shells in the oil with
the shallots, carrots, fennel, garlic, tarragon, paprika, cayenne,
tomato purée, and harissa. Allow to soften, letting them catch
slightly, then increase the heat, add the brandy and wine, and boil
for 10 minutes. Add the stocks and reduce by half. Using a stick
blender or food processor, blend until smooth, then press through
a fine sieve. Take your time here, as the better you press, the
smoother the bisque will be. Return to a saucepan and reduce by
half again. Add Tabasco and lemon juice to taste. Just before
serving, add the cream and season, then add the prawns to cook
through.

6 To serve, trim the scallops and pat dry. Lightly oil and salt them.
Fry in a hot pan for 1 minute each side, add the butter, and remove
from the heat, leaving them in the pan for 3–5 minutes. Cook the
tortellini for 3 minutes in boiling, salted water. Drain. Make a pool
of sauce on each plate and add the black and white tortellini,
alternating the colours. Place 2 scallops per plate among the
tortellini, then add the prawns. Finally, add fennel fronds and
shards of the pork crackling.
Scallop and langoustine tortellini with a prawn
bisque sauce and crackling
Nasi lemak
PING COOMBES
Champion 2014
PREPARATION TIME 45
minutes, plus soaking and
marinating
COOKING TIME 25 minutes,
plus standing
SERVES 6
FOR THE SAMBAL IKAN BILIS
12 dried chillies
50g (13⁄4oz) good-quality ikan bilis (dried anchovies)
7 red chillies, trimmed
10 small round shallots, chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled
2 lemongrass stalks, trimmed and chopped
1
⁄2 tbsp shrimp paste
150ml (5fl oz) vegetable oil
3–4 tbsp tamarind paste
3⁄ tbsp caster sugar
4

1 tsp soy sauce

FOR THE TURMERIC FRIED CHICKEN
6 chicken wings (winglets only, not the drumettes)
1 tbsp ground turmeric
1 tsp salt
1
⁄2 tbsp ground coriander
1 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra for deep-frying
2 eggs, lightly beaten
25g (scant 1oz) salted crisps, smashed
FOR THE SAMBAL PRAWNS
6 dried chillies
2 lemongrass stalks, trimmed and chopped
2 candlenuts
1 garlic clove, peeled
1 tsp shrimp paste
5–7 shallots, peeled and chopped
6 large tiger prawns, tails on
100ml (31⁄2fl oz) vegetable oil
1⁄ tbsp caster sugar
2
1 tbsp tamarind paste
1 tsp salt
FOR THE COCONUT RICE
300g (10oz) jasmine rice
250ml (9fl oz) coconut milk
1 fresh pandan leaf
1cm (1⁄2in) slice of fresh root ginger
large pinch of salt
TO SERVE
50g (13⁄4oz) ikan bilis
6 quail’s eggs
1 cucumber
handful of salted roasted peanuts
edible pansies (optional)

1 Bring some water to the boil in a small saucepan, add the dried
chillies for the sambal ikan bilis and the sambal prawns, and
simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave to sit for 15
minutes, then drain.

2 For the sambal ikan bilis, soak the ikan bilis in hot water for 15
minutes, then drain. Blend with the fresh chillies, shallots, garlic,
lemongrass, shrimp paste, and the 12 soaked chillies until smooth.
Heat the oil in a wok, then fry the paste until the oil separates. Add
the remaining ingredients and leave to cool.

3 For the chicken, push the flesh down along the bones and
remove the bigger bone of the wing. Shape the meat into a neat
ball. Rub it with the turmeric, salt, coriander, and 1 tbsp oil, cover,
and leave for at least 30 minutes at room temperature (the longer
the better). Heat the oil for deep-frying to 180°C (350°F). Dip the
chicken in the beaten egg, coat it in the smashed crisps, then deep-
fry for about 4 minutes, until golden and cooked.

4 To make the sambal prawns, blend the 6 soaked chillies,

lemongrass, candlenuts, garlic, shrimp paste, and shallots to make
a paste. Coat the prawns in 2 tbsp of the paste and marinate for 30
minutes. Heat the oil, then fry the remaining sambal paste until
fragrant and the oil separates. Add the sugar, tamarind, and salt.
Taste: it should have a good balance of spicy, sweet and tangy
flavours. In a frying pan, fry the prawns until just cooked. Top with
the sambal paste.
5 Put the rice, coconut milk, and 200ml (7fl oz) water in a
saucepan and stir. Knot the pandan leaf, then push it into the rice
with the ginger and salt. Bring to a gentle simmer (but do not stir),
until the liquid evaporates and the surface of the rice has bubbles
forming on top. Turn off the heat and cover. Leave for 30 minutes,
then fluff up the rice with a fork.

6 Now prepare the garnishes. Dry-fry the ikan bilis for a few
seconds in the oil you used for the chicken, scooping them out as
they turn light brown. Boil the quail’s eggs for 2 minutes, plunge
into cold water to stop the cooking, and peel (or fry the eggs, if you
prefer). Peel the cucumber and scoop out balls with a melon baller,
or just cut it into 2cm (¾in) chunks.

7 Serve a scoop of rice on each plate. Add the chicken, prawns, and
a spoonful of sambal. Serve the remaining sambal on the side. Add
the halved quail’s eggs and fried ikan bilis, then scatter with
cucumber pieces, peanuts, and pansies (if using).
Nasi lemak
 Spiced battered fish
and chips
DHRUV BAKER
Champion 2010
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 1 hour 15
minutes
SERVES 4

4 John Dory fillets, or other white fish, approx. 150g (51⁄2oz) each
handful of coriander, roughly chopped, to garnish
FOR THE MUSHY PEAS
250g (9oz) dried split green or yellow peas
2 onions, chopped
2 bay leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper
handful of coriander, chopped
1–2 red chillies, deseeded and chopped
1–2 green chillies, deseeded and chopped
juice of 2–3 limes
300g (10oz) frozen or fresh peas
FOR THE BROWN SAUCE
2 tbsp tamarind paste
4 tsp caster sugar
juice of 2 limes
pinch of chilli powder
FOR THE CHIPS
4–6 large Maris Piper potatoes, peeled and cut into chips
groundnut oil, for deep frying
FOR THE BATTER
150g (51⁄2oz) plain flour
2 tsp baking powder
1
⁄2 tsp fennel seeds
1⁄ tsp turmeric
4
1⁄ tsp chilli powder
4
1⁄ tsp ground coriander
4
1⁄ tsp ground cumin
4
1⁄ tsp brown mustard seeds
4
1⁄ tsp ginger paste, or freshly grated root ginger
2
1
⁄2 tsp garlic paste, or 1 garlic clove, finely crushed

1 Put the dried peas in a saucepan with 1 litre (13⁄4 pints) of water,
the onions, bay leaves, and some black pepper. Boil for 11⁄4 hours or
until the peas are tender and mushy, adding more water if
necessary. Add the coriander, chillies, and lime juice. In another
pan, boil the frozen or fresh peas for 4–5 minutes or until just
tender, then drain and crush, using a fork. Stir into the split peas
and season with salt.

2 For the sauce, put the tamarind paste in a small pan with the
sugar, lime juice, and 4 tbsp of water. Add the chilli powder. Boil
over medium-high heat for 5 minutes or until reduced to a sticky
sauce.
3 Parboil the chips in a pan of boiling water for 5 minutes, then
drain. Preheat a deep-fat fryer or deep saucepan two-thirds filled
with oil to 160°C (325°F). Cook the chips in batches for 5–6 minutes,
then drain on kitchen paper. Increase the temperature of the oil to
180°C (350°F) and return the chips to the pan to crisp and turn
golden. Toss in salt.
4 For the batter, mix the flour, baking powder, spices, ginger, and
garlic with 150–170ml (5–6fl oz) iced water until smooth. Dip 2
pieces of fish in batter and deep fry for 7–8 minutes, turning once
or twice. Drain and set aside to keep warm, then repeat with the
remaining fish.

5 Serve the battered fish with the chips and mushy peas alongside.
Drizzle a little brown sauce over and garnish the plates with
coriander.

VEGETABLES KNOW-HOW: see Deseed and cut

chillies
VEGETABLES KNOW-HOW: see Make chips
Spiced battered fish and chips
Mauritian lobster
curry with spiced
peas
SHELINA PERMALLOO
Champion 2012
PREPARATION TIME 1 hour
COOKING TIME 1 hour
SERVES 6
FOR THE STOCK
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 lobsters
50g (13⁄4oz) coriander stalks
2 banana shallots, finely chopped
1 garlic bulb, halved, skins on
1 thumb of fresh root ginger, peeled and finely chopped
FOR THE SAUCE
1 tbsp vegetable oil
2 banana shallots, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
thumb of fresh root ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 red chilli, finely chopped
12 curry leaves
2 tbsp mild Madras curry powder
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground turmeric
4 vine tomatoes, chopped
400ml can coconut milk, extra to serve
75g (21⁄2oz) finely chopped coriander leaves and stalks
FOR THE PEAS
drizzle of olive oil
400g (14oz) frozen petits pois
2 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp garam masala
1 tsp hot chilli powder
finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon and juice of 1⁄2 lemon
FOR THE POTATO BAJA
vegetable oil, for deep-frying
2 King Edward potatoes, 450g (1lb) in total, peeled and grated
80g (23⁄4oz) gram flour
1 tsp chilli powder
3 tsp chopped coriander leaves
2 tsp chopped mint leaves
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
FOR THE LOBSTER
dash of vegetable oil
knob of unsalted butter
juice of 1⁄2 lemon
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tsp finely grated fresh root ginger
micro coriander (optional)

1 For the stock, heat a large pan of salted water to a rolling boil,
weigh the lobsters, add them, and cook for 10 minutes per 450g
(1lb). Place the cooked lobsters in ice-cold water, reserving the
cooking water. Remove all the meat and set aside. Return the
shells to the cooking water with the remaining stock ingredients.
Bring to the boil and cook for 20 minutes. Strain and leave to cool.
2 To make the curry sauce, heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry
the shallots, garlic, ginger, chilli, and curry leaves in the oil with
some salt for 3–4 minutes. Add the spices and tomatoes and cook
for 5 minutes. Pour in the coconut milk and 500ml (18fl oz) of the
lobster stock and cook for a further 20 minutes. Scatter with the
coriander leaves and stalks, season with salt, then pour into a food
processor and process until smooth. Pass through a fine-mesh
sieve. Set aside.
3 For the peas, sauté everything in a pan over a medium heat for 5
minutes, splashing in some water if it gets dry. Crush slightly with
the back of fork. Set aside, covering to keep warm.
4 To make the potato baja, preheat the oil in a deep-fat fryer or
large saucepan to 180°C (350°F). Combine all of the ingredients in a
large bowl. Place large tablespoons of the mixture into the oil and
deep-fry for around 3 minutes, until golden brown. Fry about 3 at a
time, but do not overcrowd the pan. Drain on kitchen paper.
5 Melt the oil and butter for the lobster in a sauté pan. Sear the
reserved lobster meat in the oil and butter, lemon juice, garlic,
ginger, and salt and pepper for less than 1 minute, just to warm it
through and add a flash of flavour.

6 To serve, place a ring of the spiced peas in the centre of each

plate. Top this with the lobster, followed by a potato baja, then
pour the curry sauce around. Drizzle some extra coconut milk into
the curry sauce to create a lovely marbled effect, then dress the
plate with micro coriander, if using.

SHELLFISH KNOW-HOW: see Extract the meat

from a cooked lobster
Mauritian lobster curry with spiced peas
 Seared tuna with an
Asian glaze
ANGELA KENNY
Semi-finalist 2009
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes
COOKING TIME 8 minutes
SERVES 4

4 carrots
4 courgettes
8 tbsp dark soy sauce
4 limes
6 tbsp demerara sugar
12–16 Charlotte potatoes, peeled and sliced into discs
60ml (2fl oz) white miso paste
60ml (2fl oz) mirin
90ml (31⁄2 fl oz) dry sake
2 tbsp rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp oil
4 tuna steaks, 175–200g (6–7oz) each
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 With a potato peeler, shave the carrots and courgettes into long
strips. Place in a mixing bowl with 3 tbsp soy sauce, the juice and
zest of 11⁄2 limes, and 4 tbsp sugar.

2 Put the potatoes in a large pan with boiling water to cover and
the white miso paste. Cook for about 10 minutes until the potatoes
are tender and then drain.
3 Place the mirin, sake, remaining sugar and soy sauce, rice wine
vinegar, and the juice and zest of the remaining limes in a frying
pan over a medium heat and reduce to a syrup consistency – about
10 minutes.

4 Season the tuna with salt and pepper. Heat another frying pan
until hot, add the tuna, and sear on both sides for about 3 minutes.

5 Once the tuna is cooked, transfer it to the frying pan containing

the glaze and turn to coat it. Heat the ribbon vegetables in the
glaze for 2 minutes, then serve with the tuna and potatoes.
Seared tuna with an Asian glaze
 Pan-fried chicken
breast with sesame
seeds and a mango
hollandaise
JAYE WAKELIN
Quarter-finalist 2007
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 20 minutes
SERVES 4

4 chicken breasts, skinned

2 large egg yolks
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
125g (41⁄2oz) salted butter
1 ripe mango, peeled, stoned, and chopped
2 tbsp sesame seeds
1 tbsp groundnut oil
25g (scant 1oz) butter
400g (14oz) purple sprouting broccoli
1 Remove the chicken from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes
before preparation.

2 To make the hollandaise, place the egg yolks in a blender with

salt and pepper to taste and blend thoroughly. Heat the lemon
juice and vinegar to simmering point in a small saucepan, then
remove the pan from the heat. Switch on the blender again and
pour the hot lemon liquid through the vent in the top of it in a
steady stream. Switch off the blender.

3 In the same saucepan, melt the butter over a low heat. With the
blender running as before, add the butter to the egg mixture in a
steady stream. The mixture should now look like runny
mayonnaise. Pour it out into a clean bowl.

4 Add the chopped mango to the blender and blitz until smooth
and puréed. Stir into the hollandaise, cover with cling film, and set
aside.

5 Spread the sesame seeds over a plate and press the chicken
breasts onto them, coating each one evenly. Melt the oil and butter
in a frying pan over a medium heat, taking care that the butter
doesn’t brown. Add the chicken breasts and fry gently on both
sides until cooked through – about 5–8 minutes on each side. At
this point the butter in the pan will look brown but will not have
burnt. Meanwhile, steam the broccoli until tender – about 8
minutes.
6 Return the mango hollandaise to a clean saucepan and reheat
gently, taking care not to let it bubble and separate. Put the sliced
chicken breasts on plates and serve with the hollandaise spooned
over. This dish goes well with any stir-fried Chinese greens or
purple sprouting broccoli with a little soy sauce.

FRUITS AND NUTS KNOW-HOW: see Prepare a

mango
Pan-fried chicken breast with sesame seeds and a
mango hollandaise
 Roast Moroccan lamb
with couscous and
harissa sauce
HELEN GILMOUR
Quarter-finalist 2007
PREPARATION TIME 1 hour,
plus marinating
COOKING TIME 30 minutes
SERVES 4

2 cannons of lamb, about 350g (12oz) each

FOR THE MARINADE
200ml (7fl oz) olive oil
juice of 1⁄2 lemon
1 onion, finely chopped
3 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
3 tbsp chopped mint
5 tbsp chopped coriander
11⁄2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp paprika
1 tsp sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE COUSCOUS
100g (31⁄2oz) medium grain couscous
6 dried apricots, chopped
50g (13⁄4oz) golden sultanas
25g (scant 1oz) salted butter
200ml (7fl oz) chicken stock
25g (scant 1oz) flaked almonds
20g (3⁄4oz) mint, finely chopped
20g (3⁄4oz) coriander, finely chopped
200g (7oz) can chickpeas
25g (scant 1oz) nibbed pistachios
1⁄ tsp ground cinnamon
2
3 tbsp olive oil (optional)
FOR THE HARISSA SAUCE
3 tbsp rose harissa paste
2 tbsp plain yogurt

1 Combine all the marinade ingredients, pour over the lamb, and
set aside to marinate for a minimum of 2 hours, or overnight if you
can.

2 Prepare the couscous. Place the couscous, apricots, and sultanas

in a bowl. Add the butter, and pour over the chicken stock so there
is just enough to cover the grains. Cover with cling film and set
aside for 10 minutes to allow the stock to be absorbed.

3 Toast the almonds in a dry pan until golden and set aside in a
bowl. Add the mint and coriander.

4 Fluff the couscous with a fork and add half the chickpeas and
stir through. Add the almonds and herbs, and then the pistachios
and mix thoroughly. Finally, add the cinnamon and season with
salt and pepper, and add some olive oil, if required.

5 For the harissa sauce, mix the harissa paste with the yogurt and
warm it in a small saucepan over a low heat, but do not overheat
as it may split.

6 Heat a frying pan until hot and cook the lamb for 8–10 minutes.
Remove from the pan, cover with foil, and leave to rest for 5
minutes.
7 To assemble, divide the couscous between 4 plates and place
slices of lamb and a spoonful of the harissa sauce alongside. A
spoonful of cacïk is the perfect accompaniment.

RICE, GRAINS, AND PULSES KNOW-HOW: see

Rehydrate instant couscous
Roast Moroccan lamb with couscous and harissa
sauce
 Loin of venison with
celeriac purée,
braised cabbage, and
redcurrant jus
ALEX RUSHMER
Finalist 2010
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes
COOKING TIME 1 hour 30
minutes
SERVES 4

700g (1lb 9oz) loin of venison

1 tbsp olive oil
knob of butter
100g (31⁄2oz) porcini or wild mushrooms, cut into thick slices
FOR THE CABBAGE
knob of butter
1 small shallot, diced
300g (10oz) red cabbage, quartered, cored, and sliced
1 apple, cored, peeled, and sliced
1 tbsp clear honey
3 tbsp red wine vinegar
100ml (31⁄2fl oz) red wine
200ml (7fl oz) chicken stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE CELERIAC
1 celeriac, approx. 800g (13⁄4lb)
juice of 1 lemon
3 tbsp double cream
25g (scant 1oz) butter
500ml (16fl oz) vegetable oil
FOR THE JUS
knob of butter
1 shallot, diced
8 juniper berries
50g (13⁄4oz) redcurrants
150ml (5fl oz) port
150ml (5fl oz) veal stock
2 tsp redcurrant jelly
1 For the cabbage, melt the butter in a large heavy saucepan. Add
the shallot and cook for about 5 minutes to soften. Add the
remaining ingredients and season. Cover with greaseproof paper
and a lid, and braise over a very low heat for 1½ hours, stirring
occasionally.

2 Peel the celeriac and shave off 4 strips to make crisps. Put in a
bowl of iced lemon water and set aside. Dice the rest. Put in a pan
with water to cover, salt, and lemon juice and bring to the boil.
Simmer for 15–20 minutes or until soft. Drain and transfer to a
blender or food processor. Add the cream, butter, and seasoning
and purée. Keep warm.

3 For the jus, melt the butter in a pan. Cook the shallot for 3
minutes to soften. Add the berries and redcurrants and cook for 1
minute, then stir in the port and reduce by half. Pour in the stock
and reduce again. Stir in the jelly and pass through a sieve into a
pan to keep warm.

4 Season the venison and fry in the oil for 10–15 minutes, turning
once. Cook longer if you prefer your meat less pink. Remove the
venison from the pan, leave to rest, and then slice. Add the butter
and mushrooms to the pan and fry for about 2 minutes to cook
through.
5 Just before serving, drain and dry the celeriac shavings. Deep-fry
in the vegetable oil for 2–3 minutes until crisp. Drain on kitchen
paper. Spoon the purée and cabbage onto 4 plates and top with the
venison and mushrooms. Drizzle over the sauce and garnish with
the crisps.

VEGETABLES KNOW-HOW: see Core and shred

cabbage
Loin of venison with celeriac purée, braised
cabbage, and redcurrant jus
 Thai beef massaman
curry with jasmine
rice
ALIX CARWOOD
Quarter-finalist 2008
PREPARATION TIME 25 minutes
COOKING TIME 55 minutes
SERVES 4

500g (1lb 2oz) lean rump steak, cut into bite-sized chunks
5 cloves
10 cardamom pods
3 tbsp vegetable oil
400ml can coconut milk
2 tbsp nam pla (Thai fish sauce)
175ml (6fl oz) beef stock
60g (2oz) unsalted peanuts, skinned
1 large Maris Piper potato, peeled and cut into chunks
1.5cm (1⁄2in) piece fresh root ginger
1–2 tbsp palm sugar
1–2 tbsp tamarind paste
FOR THE CURRY PASTE
1 red chilli
1 stalk of lemongrass
1cm (1⁄2in) galangal or 1 tsp galangal in sunflower oil
5 cloves
1 cinnamon stick
10 cardamom pods
3 garlic cloves
3 shallots
large handful of coriander
3 tbsp olive oil
TO SERVE
300g (10oz) jasmine rice
unsalted peanuts, skinned
coriander leaves, to garnish
1 To make the curry paste, put all the ingredients in a food
processor with a little olive oil and blend until they form a paste.

2 For the beef curry, put the cloves and cardamom in a frying pan
and dry fry to release the fragrance. Remove and set aside.

3 Put a little of the vegetable oil in the pan and fry 5 tbsp of the
curry paste over a medium heat for 5 minutes until the fragrance
is released. Add the beef and fry until browned. Then add the
remaining ingredients to the pan and bring to the boil. Reduce to a
simmer and cook for about 45 minutes until the beef is tender and
the sauce is reduced.

4 Bring a pan of water to the boil. Add a pinch of salt and then the
jasmine rice. Reduce the heat and leave to simmer for about 10
minutes until the rice is cooked through.

5 Serve the curry in a bowl, sprinkled with peanuts, with the

jasmine rice to one side, garnished with coriander.

SAVOURY SAUCES AND STOCKS KNOW-HOW:

see Make beef stock
Thai beef massaman curry with jasmine rice
 Beef Wellington with
mash, creamed Savoy
cabbage, and an oxtail
jus
LIZ MCCLARNON
Celebrity champion 2008
PREPARATION TIME 40 minutes
COOKING TIME 1 hour
SERVES 4

4 fillets of beef, about 175g (6oz) each

3 Maris Piper potatoes, peeled and chopped
4 large stoneless prunes
4 tsp mango chutney
2 streaky bacon rashers, cut in half
250g (9oz) ready-made puff pastry
200g (7oz) chestnut mushrooms, chopped
75g (21⁄2oz) salted butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp truffle oil
1⁄ Savoy cabbage, shredded
2
400ml (14fl oz) double cream
1 tbsp olive oil
3 sprigs of thyme
2 sprigs of rosemary
FOR THE OXTAIL JUS
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 shallot, chopped
1 tbsp olive oil
3 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
300ml (10fl oz) port
200ml (7fl oz) oxtail stock, plus 4 tbsp

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Bring a large saucepan

of salted water to the boil, add the potatoes and simmer for 20
minutes, or until cooked. Drain and keep warm.

2 For the oxtail jus, put the garlic cloves and shallot in a frying pan
with the oil and parsley. Add the port, bring to the boil, and reduce
by three-quarters. Then add the stock and reduce by half. Keep
warm.

3 Fill the hole in each prune with the chutney and roll in a piece of
streaky bacon. Pierce with a cocktail stick and cook on a baking
tray in the oven for 7 minutes. Remove from the oven and keep
warm.

4 Roll out the pastry and cut out four 8cm (31⁄4in) diameter circles.
Put them on a floured baking sheet, glaze with a little milk, then
cook in the oven for 12 minutes, until golden. Remove and keep
warm.

5 Meanwhile, cook the mushrooms in 25g (scant 1oz) of the butter

in a saucepan, add seasoning and the truffle oil. Keep warm.

6 Put the cabbage in 300ml (10fl oz) of the double cream in a

saucepan, and add seasoning. Cook for 10–12 minutes until tender.

7 Mash the potatoes with the rest of the double cream and butter.
8 Cover the beef in the olive oil and salt and pepper. Heat a frying
pan and when hot, seal the beef for a few seconds on each side.
Transfer to a roasting tin, add the thyme and rosemary, and spoon
the extra stock over the top. Put in the oven for 6 minutes.

9 To assemble, place a puff pastry circle on each plate. Score a

circle in the top, push it down, and fill with mushrooms. Add some
creamed cabbage, a prune in bacon, and quenelles of mash. Place a
fillet of beef on top, add the jus, and serve.

DOUGH, PASTRY, AND CAKES KNOW-HOW: see

Roll out puff pastry
Beef Wellington with mash, creamed Savoy
cabbage, and an oxtail jus
Raspberry-blackberry
parfait with chocolate
mousse
TONY RODD
Finalist 2015
PREPARATION TIME 1 hour,
plus chilling
COOKING TIME 40 minutes
SERVES 4
FOR THE PARFAIT
4 tsp water
50g (13⁄4oz) caster sugar
3 egg yolks
150ml (5fl oz) double cream
150ml (5fl oz) raspberry purée
juice of 1⁄2 lemon
150ml (5fl oz) blackberry purée
FOR THE SORBET
100ml (31⁄2fl oz) water
80g (23⁄4oz) granulated sugar
200g (7oz) raspberries
juice of 1⁄2 lemon
FOR THE MOUSSE
100g (31⁄2oz) dark chocolate, chopped
30g (1oz) unsalted butter
3 eggs, separated
25g (scant 1oz) caster sugar
FOR THE CHOCOLATE SHARD
100g (31⁄2oz) dark chocolate, chopped
FOR THE CHOCOLATE GANACHE
31⁄2 tbsp double cream
(31⁄2oz) dark chocolate, chopped
FOR THE BLACKBERRY COULIS
100g (31⁄2oz) blackberries
4 tsp caster sugar
1
⁄4 gelatine sheet
TO SERVE
edible pansies (optional)

1 For the parfait, heat the water and sugar in a saucepan over a
medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Whisk the yolks in
a separate bowl until pale, then pour over the sugar water,
whisking all the time. Whip the cream to soft peaks and combine
this with the egg mixture. Separate into 2 bowls. Add the
blackberry purée and half of the lemon juice to the first bowl and
the raspberry purée and remaining lemon juice to the second.

2 Divide half of the blackberry mixture between 4 x 8cm (3in) ring

or cylindrical moulds and freeze for 20 minutes, until just set.
Then pour over all the raspberry mixture and freeze again. Finally,
divide the remaining blackberry mixture between the moulds and,
once again, freeze until just set.
3 Now make the sorbet. Heat the water and sugar in a saucepan
over a medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Purée the
raspberries and add to the saucepan with the lemon juice. Chill,
then churn in an ice cream machine until frozen.
4 For the mousse, put the chocolate and butter in a heatproof bowl
and place over a saucepan of simmering water until melted (make
sure the bowl does not touch the water). Whisk the egg yolks and
sugar together until pale, then mix with the chocolate. Whisk the
egg whites to soft peaks, fold into the mousse, cover, and chill.
5 To make the chocolate shard, melt the chocolate and pour on to
a baking sheet lined with silicone paper. Leave to set, then cut into
shards with a sharp knife. Chill until set.

6 For the ganache, heat the cream to boiling point and pour it over
the chopped chocolate in a bowl. Leave for 30 seconds, then stir
until the chocolate melts and the mixture is smooth.

7 To make the coulis, purée the blackberries and mix with the
caster sugar in a saucepan over a medium heat, stirring until the
sugar dissolves. Soak the gelatine in 1 tsp boiling water for 5
minutes, then squeeze out the water and add to the blackberry
mixture. Remove the saucepan from the heat and stir until
dissolved.

8 Place a parfait on a serving plate with a quenelle of raspberry

sorbet and some chocolate ganache. Add a smear of coulis and
place a quenelle of mousse on top. Decorate with ganache, a
chocolate shard, and the pansies (if using).
Raspberry-blackberry parfait with chocolate mousse
Rice crispie cake with
chocolate mousse,
cherry sorbet, and
cherries in Kirsch
DAVID COULSON
Professionals finalist 2010
PREPARATION TIME 50
minutes, plus freezing
SERVES 4
FOR THE SORBET
100g (31⁄2oz) caster sugar
400g (14oz) jar of griotines or black cherries in Kirsch
FOR THE CAKE
50g (13⁄4oz) dark chocolate (68% cocoa solids)
30g (1oz) rice crispies
1 tbsp golden syrup
100g (31⁄2oz) condensed milk
1 packet of popping candy
FOR THE MOUSSE
75g (21⁄2oz) dark chocolate (68% cocoa solids)
2 eggs, separated
100ml (31⁄2fl oz) double cream
FOR THE POACHING SYRUP
150ml (5fl oz) reserved Kirsch syrup from the jar of cherries
1 tbsp caster sugar
1 star anise
1 cinnamon stick
1 To make the sorbet, put the sugar in a saucepan with 100ml
(31⁄2fl oz) of water. Gently heat to dissolve the sugar, then boil for 1
minute to make a stock syrup. Drain the jar of cherries. Set aside 4
cherries and reserve the Kirsch syrup for poaching them.

2 Add the remaining cherries to the stock syrup and blend in a

liquidizer or food processor until smooth. Pour into an ice-cream
maker and churn. Transfer to a suitable container and freeze.

3 To make the cake, melt the chocolate in a glass bowl set over a
pan of simmering water. Stir in the rice crispies, syrup, and
condensed milk and add the popping candy. Divide the crispie cake
between 4 glass dessert dishes and set aside, but not in the
refrigerator.

4 For the mousse, melt the chocolate and stir in the egg yolks.
Softly whip the cream and fold into the chocolate mix. Beat the egg
whites until stiff, then fold into the mix until well combined. Spoon
the mousse into the glasses on top of the crispie mixture.

5 Put the reserved Kirsch in a pan and stir in the sugar. Add the
reserved cherries, the star anise, and the cinnamon stick. Simmer
for 5 minutes. Remove the cherries and spices with a slotted spoon
and reduce the sauce to a syrup. Reserve the cherries and discard
the spices.
6 To finish, use a melonball scoop to put a small scoop of the
sorbet on top of the mousse and decorate with a poached cherry.
Serve immediately with the syrup in a jug alongside.
EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see
Separate yolks and whites
Rice crispie cake with chocolate mousse, cherry
sorbet, and cherries in Kirsch
Exploding lemon
macarons
TIM KINNAIRD
Finalist 2010
PREPARATION TIME 55
minutes, plus standing and
chilling
COOKING TIME 25 minutes
SERVES 4
FOR THE MACARONS
180g (6oz) caster sugar
3 tbsp water
4 egg whites, near their sell-by date
180g (6oz) ground almonds
180g (6oz) icing sugar
1 tsp yellow food colouring
FOR THE LEMON CURD
4 egg yolks
grated zest and juice of 6 lemons
70g (2¼fl oz) caster sugar
70g (2¼fl oz) salted butter
TO SERVE
popping candy (optional)

1 Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F/Gas 2) and line 2–3 baking

sheets with baking parchment.

2 To make the macarons, dissolve the sugar in 3 tbsp of water over

low heat for about 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Increase the
heat and allow the sugar to boil for about 10 minutes, without
stirring, until it reaches 118°C (244°F) – “soft boil” temperature.
3 Whisk the egg whites in a free-standing mixer until they start to
foam. Still mixing, gradually add the sugar syrup in a steady
stream until the sugar is incorporated and the egg whites form stiff
peaks.

4 In a separate bowl, mix together the ground almonds, icing

sugar, 165g (51⁄2oz) of the egg whites, and the food colouring. Mix
together until the meringue flows like lava.

5 Pipe 5cm (2in) circles of the meringue mixture onto the baking
parchment with at least 2cm (3⁄4in) gaps between each circle. Leave
for 45 minutes for the shells to dry a little and a crust to form.

6 Bake in the oven for about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven to
cool and then gently remove from the paper.
7 While the biscuits are resting, make the lemon curd. Put the egg
yolks, lemon zest and juice, and caster sugar into a saucepan and
heat gently with half the butter for about 10 minutes until the curd
thickens.

8 Strain the lemon curd into a bowl to remove the zest and whisk
in the remaining butter. Chill in the refrigerator until the curd is
firm and the biscuits are cool.

9 Sandwich pairs of macarons with lemon curd and put them back
in the refrigerator to chill, preferably overnight.
10 Remove the macarons from the refrigerator an hour before
serving. Slightly moisten them by lightly brushing them with a
moistened pastry brush and sprinkle with popping candy (if using).

EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see

Separate yolks and whites
EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see
Whisk egg whites
EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see
Shape meringues
Exploding lemon macarons
Strawberries with
sablé biscuits and
orange and lemon
syllabub
JAMES NATHAN
Champion 2008
PREPARATION TIME 40 minutes
COOKING TIME 8 minutes
SERVES 4
FOR THE SABLÉ BISCUITS
100g (31⁄2oz) plain flour
75g (21⁄2oz) unsalted butter
100g (31⁄2oz) golden caster sugar
grated zest of 1 lemon
2 egg yolks
FOR THE SYLLABUB
50g (13⁄4oz) caster sugar
grated zest and juice of 1 orange
grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
300ml (10fl oz) double cream
FOR THE STRAWBERRY COULIS
350g (12oz) strawberries (English if possible)
50g (13⁄4oz) icing sugar
3 tbsp Grand Marnier
TO DECORATE
icing sugar, for sprinkling
mint leaves

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). To make the biscuits,

mix the flour, butter, sugar, lemon zest, and egg yolks together in a
food processor until a soft ball of dough is formed. Rest in the
refrigerator for about 30 minutes. Roll out thinly. Cut out 8 biscuits
with a 7–8cm (23⁄4–31⁄4in) biscuit cutter and bake in the oven on a
greased baking tray until golden, about 6–8 minutes.

2 To make the coulis, hull 200g (7oz) of the strawberries. Purée

with the icing sugar and Grand Marnier in a food processor. Check
for sweetness and adjust if necessary. Pass through a fine sieve
and chill the mixture until required.

3 For the syllabub, combine the sugar and zest and juice from the
orange and lemon. Whisk the cream until it forms soft peaks. Add
the citrus mixture and whisk to firm peaks. Chill until required.
4 To serve, put a swirl of the coulis on each plate. Set a biscuit
alongside it. Put a few spoonfuls of syllabub in the centre of the
biscuit and surround with the remaining strawberries, halved
lengthways to make pillars. Top with another biscuit. Sprinkle with
icing sugar and add some mint leaves to finish.
Strawberries with sablé biscuits and orange and
lemon syllabub
Lavender mousse with
honeycomb and a
blackberry sauce
MAT FOLLAS
Champion 2009
PREPARATION TIME 50 minutes
SERVES 4
FOR THE BLACKBERRY SAUCE
300g (10oz) blackberries
200g (7oz) caster sugar
FOR THE LAVENDER MOUSSE
13g (1⁄2oz) gelatine leaves, cut into pieces
500ml (16fl oz) whole milk
5 egg yolks
40g (11⁄2oz) caster sugar
500ml (16fl oz) whipping cream
20g (3⁄4oz) lavender flower heads
12 drops lavender essence
FOR THE HONEYCOMB
75g (21⁄2oz) caster sugar
2 tbsp golden syrup
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
1 Set aside 12 blackberries of different sizes for decoration. Then
put the remaining blackberries in a pan with the caster sugar and
add 100ml (31⁄2fl oz) cold water, stir and heat gently until the sugar
has dissolved. Bring the sauce to the boil, reduce the heat, and
simmer for 5 minutes or until the sauce has reduced by half and
thickened. Pass through a sieve, discard the blackberry pulp, and
leave to cool.

2 Transfer the sauce into a jug and pour a little into 4 freezerproof
glasses, which the mousse will be served in. Put the glasses in the
freezer and set the rest of the sauce aside in the refrigerator.

3 For the lavender mousse, put the gelatine in iced water for about
10 minutes to soften. Pour the milk into a saucepan and bring it to
the boil. Place the egg yolks and sugar into a bowl and mix. Stir in
the milk. Return to the pan, stirring and warming gently for 5
minutes or until the sauce coats the back of a spoon, making a
crème anglaise. Drain any excess water from the gelatine and add
to the pan and stir until dissolved. Set aside to cool.

4 Whip the cream until stiff peaks are formed. Add the lavender
heads and combine. Stir in the lavender essence, a drop at a time,
until the flavour is to your taste. Gently fold the cream into the
crème anglaise.
5 Remove the glasses from the freezer and pour the mixture over
the frozen berry sauce. Return to the freezer for 20 minutes.
6 To make the honeycomb, heat the sugar and golden syrup slowly
in a saucepan, stirring constantly for 3 minutes or until the sugar
is dissolved. Stir in the bicarbonate of soda and then pour onto a
silicone sheet and leave to cool. Put into a plastic bag and gently
smash it.
7 To serve, make a line of blackberry sauce on each plate and top
with the reserved blackberries. Add the frozen mousses and put a
piece of broken honeycomb in the top of each one and add a small
pile of honeycomb crumbs alongside.

FLAVOURINGS KNOW-HOW: see Use gelatine

EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see
Whip cream
Lavender mousse with honeycomb and a blackberry
sauce
Pears belle Hélène
STEVEN WALLIS
Champion 2007
PREPARATION TIME 20
minutes, plus freezing
COOKING TIME 20 minutes
SERVES 4
FOR THE PEARS
1 tbsp caster sugar
4 bay leaves
3 cardamom pods
2 vanilla pods
2 Comice pears, with stalks
FOR THE ICE CREAM
300ml (10fl oz) double cream
200ml (7fl oz) whole milk
2 vanilla pods, slit, seeds scraped out but reserved
4 egg yolks
85–100g (3–31⁄2oz) caster sugar
FOR THE CHOCOLATE SAUCE
1 tsp caster sugar
300ml (10fl oz) double cream
2 x 100g (31⁄2oz) bars dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids)

1 First make the ice cream. Pour the cream and milk into a
saucepan. Add the vanilla pods and seeds to the pan and heat
gently until steaming but not boiling. Leave to infuse for 5 minutes.

2 Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together until pale and foamy.
Remove the vanilla pods and gradually whisk the warm cream into
the egg yolk mixture. Return to the pan and cook, stirring, over low
heat until a custard thick enough to coat the back of a wooden
spoon is formed. Transfer to an ice-cream maker and churn.

3 To cook the pears, pour 300ml (10fl oz) boiling water into a
saucepan, add the sugar, and stir to dissolve. Add the bay leaves
and cardamom and vanilla pods. Heat gently to boiling point. Peel
and core the pears, leaving the stalk intact. Add to the syrup, cover
with a lid, and poach gently for 20 minutes or until tender.

4 For the chocolate sauce, put the sugar in a pan with 1 tbsp
boiling water and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Set aside. Warm
the cream in a heavy pan, add the chocolate piece by piece, and
stir very briefly to melt. Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar
syrup. Keep warm.

5 To serve, slice the pears in half lengthways, then make vertical

cuts about 5mm (1⁄4in) apart. For each diner, scoop out a ball of ice
cream the size of a small orange and place in a chilled deep dessert
bowl. Carefully lift the pear on top and mould it around the ice
cream. Set the bowl on a plate and serve the chocolate sauce on
the side.

EGG AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see

Whip cream
Pears belle Hélène
Lemon posset with
limoncello crumb,
lime air, and burnt
grapefruit
SIMON WOOD
Champion 2015
PREPARATION TIME 1 hour,
plus chilling
COOKING TIME 20 minutes
SERVES 4
FOR THE LEMON POSSET
300ml (10fl oz) double cream
100g (31⁄2oz) golden caster sugar
finely grated zest and juice of 2 unwaxed lemons
FOR THE LIME TUILE
1 egg white
40g (11⁄4oz) caster sugar
40g (11⁄4oz) plain flour
finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lime
22g (3⁄4oz) unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for the baking tray
FOR THE LIMONCELLO CRUMB
100g (31⁄2oz) caster sugar
2 tsp limoncello
55g (2oz) shelled unsalted pistachios
unsalted butter, for the baking tray
FOR THE LIME AIR
150ml (5fl oz) lime juice
50ml (13⁄4fl oz) water
1g (about ¼ tsp) soy lecithin
FOR THE BURNT GRAPEFRUIT
1 pink grapefruit
1 white grapefruit
TO SERVE
edible pansies (optional)

1 Heat the cream and sugar together over a gentle heat, stirring
until the sugar dissolves. Turn off the heat and add the lemon zest
and juice. Divide between 4 serving dishes or glasses and chill for
at least 3 hours, or up to 24 hours.

2 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Make the tuile: whisk
the egg white lightly, then whisk in the sugar. Sift in the flour and
mix to a smooth paste, then stir in the lime zest and melted butter.
Butter a baking tray, then place 4 spoonfuls of the mixture on it,
spaced well apart. Bake for 10 minutes, until golden brown.
Remove carefully from the tray with a palette knife and curl over a
cling film-lined rolling pin, for curved tuiles, or roll them tighter,
for tuile “cigars”.
3 For the limoncello crumb, heat the caster sugar in a small
saucepan with the limoncello over a medium heat, until the sugar
dissolves and turns to a light caramel. Take off the heat, stir in the
pistachios, pour on to a buttered baking tray, spread out, and allow
to cool. Break into pieces, then pulse to crumbs in a food processor.

4 To make the lime air, mix all the ingredients in a bowl and use a
hand-held blender to whisk until bubbles form.

5 Segment both the grapefruits and char the segments on both

sides with a blowtorch.

6 To serve, sprinkle the possets with the pistachio crumb, add the
burnt grapefruit segments, spoon on the lime air. Decorate with
pansies (if using), and serve with a lime tuile.

FRUITS AND NUTS KNOW-HOW: see Segment

citrus fruit
Lemon posset with limoncello crumb, lime air, and
burnt grapefruit
 Almond panna cotta
with poached
tamarillos and berries
TIM KINNAIRD
Finalist 2010
PREPARATION TIME 30
minutes, plus chilling
COOKING TIME 40 minutes
SERVES 4

4 leaves of gelatine
250ml (8fl oz) whole milk
250ml (8fl oz) double cream
1 vanilla pod
50g (13⁄4 oz) caster sugar
few drops of almond extract
FOR THE TAMARILLOS
100g (31⁄2oz) caster sugar
1 vanilla pod
1 cinnamon stick
1 bay leaf
4 tamarillos, halved lengthways
FOR THE BERRIES
50g (13⁄4oz) caster sugar
60ml (2fl oz) cassis
50g (13⁄4oz) raspberries
50g (13⁄4oz) blueberries

1 To make the panna cotta, first soak the gelatine in cold water for
10 minutes to soften. Pour the milk and cream into a saucepan,
split the vanilla pod, and add to the pan. Bring to the boil, remove
from the heat, and allow to infuse for few minutes. Shake off
excess water from the gelatine and stir into the pan. Add the sugar,
then continue to stir over low heat until completely melted. Take
out the vanilla pod and stir in the almond extract.

2 Lightly oil 4 individual pudding basins that will hold 135ml (41⁄2fl
oz) of panna cotta then set them on a tray. Pour the mixture into
each. Chill for at least 2 hours, or until completely set.

3 For the tamarillos, pour 200ml (7fl oz) water into a saucepan and
add the sugar, vanilla, cinnamon, and bay leaf. Cook over low heat
until the sugar has dissolved. Increase the heat and, when
simmering, add the tamarillos and poach for about 5–10 minutes.
Remove from the heat and leave to cool in the syrup.

4 For the berries, pour 100ml (31⁄2fl oz) water into a saucepan, add
the sugar and cassis, and bring to the boil. Add the berries and
cook slowly for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. The
mixture should appear syrupy.

5 Dip the pudding basins in hot water for a couple of seconds, then
turn out onto the centre of each serving plate. Top with a berry and
serve alongside 2 halves of a tamarillo and a spoonful of the
poached berries.

FLAVOURINGS KNOW-HOW: see Use gelatine

EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see
Whip cream
Almond panna cotta with poached tamarillos and
berries
 Hazelnut and
raspberry meringue
NADIA SAWALHA
Celebrity champion 2007
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes
COOKING TIME 40 minutes
SERVES 4

115g (4oz) whole shelled hazelnuts

4 large egg whites
250g (9oz) caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tbsp raspberry vinegar
300ml (10fl oz) double cream
200g (7oz) fresh raspberries
icing sugar, to dust

1 Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F/Gas 3). Butter a 20cm (8in)

sandwich tin and line with baking parchment.

2 Halve and dry fry the hazelnuts until lightly toasted, reserving a
few.
3 Whisk the egg whites until stiff. Add the sugar 1 tbsp at a time
and continue beating until the mixture is very stiff and stands in
peaks. Whisk in the vanilla extract and vinegar, then fold in the
hazelnuts.
4 Transfer to the sandwich tin. Alternatively, make individual
portions by placing dollops of the meringue mix straight on to
baking parchment, forming a slight hollow for the filling. Bake in
the oven for 20–30 minutes, or until lightly browned and holding its
shape. Leave to cool in the tin for 10 minutes then transfer to a
serving dish.

5 Whip the cream and pile onto the centre of the meringue when it
is completely cold. Place the raspberries. Finely chop the reserved
hazelnuts and sprinkle over. Dust with icing sugar just before
serving.

EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see

Whisk egg whites
EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see
Whip cream
Hazelnut and raspberry meringue
 Pear and butterscotch
frangipane tart
SUSIE CARTER
Quarter-finalist 2006
PREPARATION TIME 45 minutes
COOKING TIME 40 minutes
SERVES 4

50g (13⁄4oz) caster sugar

clotted cream, to serve
FOR THE BUTTERSCOTCH SAUCE
50g (13⁄4oz) unsalted butter
50g (13⁄4oz) light muscovado sugar
2 tbsp golden syrup
2 tbsp double cream
FOR THE PASTRY
200g (7oz) plain flour
100g (31⁄2oz) butter
1 egg, beaten
FOR THE TART FILLING
50g (13⁄4oz) ground almonds
50g (13⁄4oz) caster sugar
50g (13⁄4oz) butter
1 egg
few drops of almond extract
2 pears, with stalks, to serve

1 To make the butterscotch sauce, put the butter, sugar, and

golden syrup into a small saucepan and bring slowly to the boil,
stirring. Reduce the heat and simmer for 3 minutes or until thick.
Stir in the cream, then remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
2 Make the pastry by rubbing the butter into the flour, then adding
enough cold water to bind into a pliable dough. Rest in the
refrigerator for 30 minutes, then roll out on a floured surface and
use to line 4 tartlet cases about 10cm (4in) in diameter. Trim the
excess with scissors, allowing a little to overhang, and prick all
over the base with a fork.
3 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Line each pastry case
with baking parchment and bake blind for 10 minutes. Remove the
baking parchment and beans, brush the pastry with beaten egg,
and return to the oven for 5–10 minutes or until crisp.
4 Spoon 2 tbsp butterscotch sauce into each pastry case and
reserve the rest to serve with the finished tarts. To make the
frangipane, whisk together all the tart filling ingredients except the
pears until light and spoon into the pastry cases to come halfway
up the sides.
5 Peel the pears and cut in half through the stalk. Carefully
remove the core, then slice along the length like a fan, without
cutting all the way through at the stalk end. Use half a pear to top
each tartlet, snuggling it down. Bake for 20 minutes or until the
pear and frangipane are both cooked. Leave to cool a little.
6 Heat the caster sugar in a small pan, shaking occasionally until
it has liquefied and turned light brown. Pour onto a non-stick
baking mat in a thin layer and leave to cool for a few minutes.
When set, break into shards. Serve the tartlets with a pool of
butterscotch sauce, a quenelle of clotted cream, and a caramel
shard.
Pear and butterscotch frangipane tart
Acorn panna cotta
with toffee popcorn
and pear-hazelnut
millefeuille
ANDREW KOJIMA
Finalist 2012
PREPARATION TIME 1 hour,
plus infusing and soaking
COOKING TIME 1 hour
SERVES 6
FOR THE ACORN PANNACOTTA
30g (1oz) acorns or hazelnuts, shelled
300ml (½ pint) double cream
100ml (3½fl oz) milk
50g (1¾oz) caster sugar
1 gelatine leaf
oil spray, or a little unsalted butter, for greasing
FOR THE MOCHA TUILE
2 tbsp liquid glucose
120g (4½oz) caster sugar
15g (½oz) Valhrona cocoa powder
15g (½oz) espresso powder
FOR THE TOFFEE POPCORN
25g (scant 1oz) popping corn
50g (1¾oz) caster sugar
50g (1¾oz) muscovado sugar
30g (1oz) unsalted butter
sea salt
FOR THE PEAR MILLEFEUILLE
4 x 16g (½oz) sheets of filo pastry
50g (1¾oz) unsalted butter, melted
25g (scant 1oz) icing sugar, plus extra for dusting and sweetening
250ml (9fl oz) perry (pear cider)
125g (4½oz) caster sugar
1 vanilla pod
1 cinnamon stick
1 ripe Williams pear
juice of ½ lemon
25g (scant 1oz) very good-quality milk chocolate, chopped
25g (scant 1oz) blanched hazelnuts
150ml (5fl oz) double cream
1–2 tbsp milk, if needed
1 For the panna cotta, preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4).
Roast the acorns for 10 minutes until they are deep brown. Grind
coarsely in a food processor, then put in a saucepan with the
cream, milk, and sugar. Place over a medium heat and bring to the
boil, then leave to infuse for 30 minutes.

2 In a small bowl, soak the gelatine in 1 tbsp iced water for 3

minutes, or until soft. Return the acorn infusion to the boil. Whisk
in the gelatine, then strain through a sieve into a jug. Grease 6
silicone dariole or pudding moulds with oil spray or butter. Pour in
the mixture, cover, and chill until set.
3 For the tuile, preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Heat the
glucose and sugar in a saucepan until it reaches 127°C (261°F) on a
sugar thermometer. Stir in the cocoa and espresso, then pour on to
a silicone mat, put another on top and roll into a sheet using a
rolling pin. Leave to harden for 15 minutes. Blitz to a powder in a
food processor. Sprinkle over a silicone-lined baking tray and bake
for 4–5 minutes to melt it into a thin, glass-like sheet. Cool, then
break into shards.
4 For the toffee popcorn, pop the corn in the microwave, according
to the packet instructions. Heat the caster sugar in a heavy-based
saucepan until it melts and turns caramel in colour. Add the
muscovado sugar, whisk in the butter, and season with sea salt.
Allow all the ingredients to melt. Reserve half the toffee. Coat the
popcorn in the remaining toffee and pour on to a silicone mat to
set.

5 For the millefeuille, preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4).

Brush the filo with butter and dust with icing sugar. Place each
between 2 sheets of baking parchment and sandwich between 2
baking sheets. Bake for 10 minutes, until dark golden. Cool on a
wire rack, then cut into 12 rectangles using a sharp knife.
6 Bring the perry to a simmer with the caster sugar, vanilla, and
cinnamon, stirring to dissolve. Peel the pear and carve out balls
with a melon baller (or cut into neat pieces). Coat with lemon juice.
Add to the perry and leave to cool. Drain.

7 Melt the chocolate over a bain-marie and cool slightly. Blitz the
hazelnuts in a food processor. Whip the cream to soft peaks, then
fold in the nuts and chocolate, with milk to loosen, if needed. Taste
and add icing sugar, if required.

8 To serve, place a panna cotta on a plate and top with a tuile

shard. Assemble the millefeuille: coat 1 filo piece with hazelnut
cream, spoon over the pears, and top with another filo piece.
Drizzle the plate with the reserved toffee, then scatter over the
popcorn.
Acorn panna cotta with toffee popcorn and pear-
hazelnut millefeuille
 White chocolate
mousse with
raspberry and
elderflower jelly
CLAIRE LARA
Professionals champion 2010
PREPARATION TIME 1 hour,
plus chilling
COOKING TIME 30 minutes
SERVES 4

5 leaves of gelatine
200ml (7fl oz) double cream
150g (51⁄2oz) Valrhona white chocolate
400g (14oz) raspberries
150g (51⁄2oz) caster sugar, plus extra for scattering over the filo
sheets
3 tbsp elderflower cordial
4 sheets of filo pastry
50g (13⁄4oz) butter, melted
2 tsp chopped freeze-dried raspberries

1 Soak 2 of the leaves of gelatine in cold water for at least 10

minutes to soften. Whip the cream until soft peaks form.

2 Melt the chocolate in a bowl set over a pan of barely simmering

water, making sure the bowl is clear of the water. Remove the bowl
from the pan. While the chocolate is still warm (not hot), squeeze
the excess water from the gelatine and stir the gelatine into the
chocolate. Whisk the chocolate into the whipped cream and
transfer to a piping bag with a plain nozzle. Place in the
refrigerator for 20 minutes to set.

3 Meanwhile, place the remaining leaves of gelatine in cold water

to soften. Reserving 12 raspberries, whizz the rest of the
raspberries to a purée with the sugar in food processor, then pass
through a sieve.

4 Place the raspberry purée and elderflower cordial in a pan and

heat gently, then stir in the gelatine. Warm over low heat until the
gelatine is dissolved. Pour into mini muffin tins, sit a raspberry on
top of each, and put in the refrigerator to set.
5 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Cut each sheet of filo
pastry into 4 rectangles. Brush with melted butter and sugar and
bake in the oven for 3 minutes until crispy, then remove and cool.
Scatter with freeze-dried raspberries.

6 To serve, on each plate pipe 3–4 lines of mousse on top of a filo

rectangle and top with another piece of filo. Repeat twice, finishing
with a piece of filo pastry. Serve with the jellies alongside.

FLAVOURINGS KNOW-HOW: see Use gelatine

White chocolate mousse with raspberry and
elderflower jelly
Pear tarte Tatin and
candied walnuts with
gorgonzola ice cream
JACK LUCAS
Finalist 2014
PREPARATION TIME 1 hour,
plus chilling time
COOKING TIME 50 minutes
SERVES 4
FOR THE GORGONZOLA ICE CREAM
225ml (8fl oz) milk
150ml (5fl oz) whipping cream
75g (21⁄2oz) egg yolk
75g (21⁄2oz) caster sugar
90g (3oz) mild gorgonzola dolce
FOR THE TARTE TATIN
75g (21⁄2oz) sugar
25g (scant 1oz) unsalted butter
2 very ripe pears, peeled, cored, and sliced
200g (7oz) all-butter puff pastry sheet
FOR THE POACHED PEAR
2 pears
50g (13⁄4oz) granulated sugar
100ml (31⁄2fl oz) water
5 tsp Poire William liqueur
FOR THE CANDIED WALNUTS
50g (13⁄4oz) walnut halves
100g (31⁄2oz) granulated sugar
flavourless vegetable oil, for deep-frying
TO SERVE
red amaranth (optional)

1 For the ice cream, put the milk and cream in a saucepan and
bring to the boil. In a separate bowl, beat the egg yolk and sugar
until pale and fluffy. Add the milk mixture, whisking constantly,
then return to the pan and heat, stirring constantly, until the
mixture starts to thicken. Crumble in the gorgonzola and stir until
smooth. Cover and chill, then churn in an ice cream machine.
2 To bake the tarte, preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F/Gas 7). Melt
the sugar and butter in a saucepan until the mixture becomes dark
and caramelized. Add the pears and cook, turning, until softened
and coated in the thick caramel. Line 4 x 9cm (3½in) ramekins with
the pears and caramel. Pierce the puff pastry all over with a fork,
then cut out 12cm (41⁄2in) circles and place over the pears. Bake for
20–30 minutes until the pastry is crisp.

3 Meanwhile, make the poached pears. Peel, quarter, and core the
pears, place in a sauté pan with the sugar, water, and liqueur and
cook until tender. Strain and reserve the liquid. Keep 1 pear for
garnish, and purée the other with 1–2 tbsp of the liquid.
4 To make the candied walnuts, preheat the oven to 190°C
(375°F/Gas 5). Lightly toast the nuts in the oven before adding to
the reserved pear syrup, adding the 100g (31⁄2oz) sugar. Stir to
dissolve the sugar, then bring to the boil, simmering until the syrup
coats the nuts. Drain the nuts. Bring the oil to 180°C (350°F) in a
large saucepan or a deep-fat fryer. Add the nuts for just 5 seconds;
any longer and they burn to a crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon
and drain on greaseproof paper.
5 To serve, turn the tartes out onto 4 serving plates. Place a swipe
of pear purée on each plate, then add a poached pear quarter and a
scoop ice cream on top. Sprinkle with candied walnuts and red
amaranth (if using).
Pear tarte Tatin and candied walnuts with
gorgonzola ice cream
 Rhubarb crumble tart
with syllabub and
rhubarb syrup
DICK STRAWBRIDGE
Celebrity finalist 2010
PREPARATION TIME 45
minutes, plus chilling
COOKING TIME 1 hour
SERVES 4

225g (8oz) sugar, plus 3 tbsp

450g (1lb) rhubarb, cut into 1cm (1⁄2in) pieces
2 pieces of stem ginger, finely diced
FOR THE NUT CRUST
50g (13⁄4oz) blanched hazelnuts, toasted
25g (scant 1oz) icing sugar
100g (31⁄2 oz) plain flour
50g (13⁄4 oz) butter
1⁄ tsp vanilla extract
2

1 small egg, beaten

FOR THE CRUMBLE TOPPING
100g (31⁄2oz) plain flour
50g (13⁄4oz) butter
25g (scant 1oz) demerara sugar
finely grated zest of 1 lemon
FOR THE SYLLABUB
300ml (10fl oz) double cream
1–2 tbsp ginger wine or brandy
2 tbsp ginger syrup from the stem ginger jar
1 piece of stem ginger, finely sliced
1 First make a syrup by dissolving 225g (8oz) of the sugar in a
saucepan with 300ml (10fl oz) of boiling water. Preheat the oven to
180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Add half the rhubarb to the syrup, bring to the
boil, then leave until completely cold. Put the remaining rhubarb in
an ovenproof dish and sprinkle over 3 tbsp of sugar. Bake in the
oven for about 20 minutes or until softened. Allow to cool, then
drain and mix with the slices of stem ginger, reserving 8 slices for
decoration. Strain the cold rhubarb syrup into a jug and chill.

2 For the nut crust, put the nuts and sugar in a food processor and
mix briefly to combine. Add the remaining ingredients except the
egg and mix on the pulse setting. With the machine running,
gradually pour in the egg and mix to form a ball. Wrap in cling film
and chill for 30 minutes. Divide into 4 equal pieces and press into
the base of four 10cm (4in) tart tins. Chill for 10 minutes.

3 Increase the oven heat to 190°C (375°G/Gas 5). Cook the tarts for
about 8–10 minutes or until pale golden. Meanwhile, make the
crumble. Put all the ingredients in a food processor and mix briefly
to form crumbs. Spread out on a baking sheet and cook for 8–10
minutes or until pale golden. Give the crumble a stir halfway
through cooking.
4 Divide the rhubarb between tart cases and top with the crumble.
Bake for 10 minutes or until heated through.
5 For the syllabub, put the cream, wine, and ginger syrup into a
bowl and whisk to form soft peaks. Chill for 10 minutes.
6 Serve the tarts warm with the syllabub, decorating the syllabub
with slices of stem ginger. Place a cup of pink rhubarb syrup
alongside.
Rhubarb crumble tart with syllabub and rhubarb
syrup
 Rhubarb tarte Tatin
served with
mascarpone
MARIANNE LUMB
Professionals finalist 2009
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 30 minutes
SERVES 4

200g (7oz) ready-made puff pastry

6 sticks rhubarb
150g (51⁄2oz) unsalted butter, softened
125g (41⁄2oz) granulated sugar
grated zest of 1 orange
2 vanilla pods, each split and cut into 4 pieces
200g (7oz) mascarpone cheese

1 Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F/Gas 5) and get out 4 heatproof

blini pans. Roll the puff pastry to about 3mm (1⁄8in) thick and cut
into 4 discs with a diameter slightly larger than the pans. Prick
each disc and leave to chill in the refrigerator.
2 Choose the thicker pieces of rhubarb and cut to fit the 4 pans
perfectly in 2 layers. Cover the base of each pan with the butter
and then sprinkle over the sugar, orange zest, and a piece of vanilla
pod, and then add the rhubarb pieces.

3 Cook the rhubarb on a very high heat on the hob for about 10
minutes to reach a good, bitter caramelization. Check by carefully
lifting up the rhubarb with a palette knife, but do not be tempted
to stir the rhubarb.
4 Cover each pan carefully with a disc of puff pastry, allowing the
pastry to tuck just inside the pans. Place the pans on a baking
sheet and cook for 20–30 minutes, or until the puff pastry is
perfectly cooked and the tartes have a good caramelization.
Remove from the oven and allow to rest for a few minutes.

5 Carefully invert each pan onto a plate, letting the tarte drop
gently down. Serve immediately, each topped with a scoop of
mascarpone cheese and a remaining piece of vanilla pod, to
decorate.

DOUGH, PASTRY, AND CAKES KNOW-HOW: see

Roll out puff pastry
Rhubarb tarte Tatin served with mascarpone
Coconut ice cream,
almond dacquoise,
and coffee caramel
with Thai basil
LARKIN CEN
Finalist 2013
PREPARATION TIME 1 hour,
plus chilling and infusing
COOKING TIME 1 hour
SERVES 6
FOR THE COCONUT ICE CREAM
300ml (10fl oz) double cream
150ml (5fl oz) coconut milk
1⁄ vanilla pod, seeds scraped out
2

3 egg yolks
60g (2oz) caster sugar
30g (1oz) desiccated coconut
FOR THE THAI BASIL GEL
100g (31⁄2oz) Thai basil, 10 leaves reserved
65g (21⁄4oz) caster sugar
21⁄2 tsp agar agar
FOR THE COCONUT CONSOMMÉ
250g (9oz) coconut milk
30g (1oz) caster sugar
1
⁄4 tsp salt
FOR THE ALMOND DACQUOISE
100g (31⁄2oz) skin-on almonds
4 drops of French almond oil
140g (5oz) caster sugar
3 egg whites
pinch of salt
FOR THE COFFEE CARAMEL
250ml (9fl oz) double cream
2 tsp instant coffee powder
1 vanilla pod, seeds scraped out
200g (7oz) white granulated sugar
TO GARNISH
spriglets of Thai basil, or basil flowers in season (optional)

1 First, make the ice cream. Combine the cream, coconut milk, and
vanilla seeds in a saucepan, bring to the boil, then strain and leave
to cool. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar until pale, then gradually
whisk in the warm coconut mixture. Return to the saucepan and
stir over a low heat until the mixture coats the back of a spoon.
Allow to cool, stir in the desiccated coconut, then churn in an ice-
cream machine until smooth and frozen.

2 For the Thai basil gel, pour 1 litre (13⁄4 pints) water into a
saucepan and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat. Place the
basil in a sieve and dunk into the water for 40 seconds. Remove
and plunge the sieve straight into ice-cold water to stop the
cooking process and set the bright green colour. Drain very well.
Put in a food processor with 100ml (31⁄2fl oz) ice-cold water and
blend finely. Strain the basil water through muslin or a fine sieve.

3 Boil the sugar, agar agar, and 160ml (53⁄4fl oz) in a saucepan,
stirring until dissolved. Let it cool. When it is setting, slowly add
120ml (4fl oz) of the basil water, blitzing with a hand-held blender
until smooth. Cover and chill.

4 For the coconut consommé, put all the ingredients into a

saucepan with the 10 reserved Thai basil leaves. Bring to the boil,
then leave to infuse for 4 hours. Strain everything through muslin,
pressing all the flavour through.
5 To make the dacquoise, preheat the oven to 130°C (250°F/ Gas 1⁄2)
and line 3 baking sheets with baking parchment. Put the almonds
and almond oil in a food processor with 100g (31⁄2oz) sugar and
grind to a powder. Meanwhile, whisk the egg whites, salt, and
remaining 40g (11⁄2oz) sugar to soft peaks. Gently fold in the almond
mixture, spoon into a piping bag and pipe 6 small circles on to the
prepared baking sheets. Bake for 50 minutes, until crisp and
golden, then allow to cool.
6 Now make the coffee caramel. Combine the cream, coffee, and
vanilla seeds and pod in a saucepan. Bring to just below the boil,
then remove from the heat and allow to infuse for 30 minutes.
7 Meanwhile, put the sugar in a heavy-based saucepan with 4 tbsp
water and place over a medium heat. Do not stir. Wait until the
sugar has dissolved and become golden brown, swirling the pan
occasionally. Beat the caramel into the coffee cream and mix until
smooth and shiny. Strain the mixture, let it cool, then decant into a
squeezy bottle.
8 To serve, spoon a little coconut consommé into soup plates. Add
scoops of ice cream. Stir the basil gel to loosen it, then add drops of
it on to the plates with drops of the coffee caramel. Place an
almond dacquoise on the side, or break it up first, if you prefer, and
scatter with basil spriglets or flowers (if using).
Coconut ice cream, almond dacquoise, and coffee
caramel with Thai basil
Chocolate-pistachio
salted caramel tart,
cinnamon pear, and
Kirsch cream
EMMA SPITZER
Finalist 2015
PREPARATION TIME 1 hour,
plus chilling
COOKING TIME 35 minutes
SERVES 6
FOR THE TART BASE
200g (7oz) shelled unsalted pistachios, plus extra,crushed, for
sprinkling
120g (4½oz) unsalted butter
100g (3½oz) cocoa powder
150g (5½oz) caster sugar
FOR THE FILLING
100g (3½oz) light muscovado sugar
4 tbsp golden syrup
1½ tsp sea salt
100ml (3½fl oz) double cream
1 tsp of vanilla extract
6 tbsp pistachio paste
FOR THE GANACHE
200g (7oz) dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids), chopped, or
preferably in buttons
100g (3½oz) unsalted butter, chopped
300ml (½ pint) double cream
4 tbsp light muscovado sugar
4 egg yolks
splash of vanilla extract
FOR THE CARAMELIZED PEAR
2 tbsp golden caster sugar
1 tsp ground cinnamon
2 ripe William pears, peeled, cored, and sliced
FOR THE SOUR CHERRY SYRUP
100g (3½oz) sour cherries
1 cinnamon stick
100ml (3½fl oz) maple syrup
FOR THE MERINGUE
2 egg whites
pinch of sea salt
50g (1¾oz) caster sugar
1 tsp cornflour
FOR THE KIRSCH CHANTILLY CREAM
150ml (5fl oz) double cream
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tbsp icing sugar
1½ tbsp Kirsch
1 For the tart base, whizz the pistachios in a food processor until
finely ground. Add the butter, cocoa powder, and sugar, and pulse
to a smooth, sticky dough. Wrap in cling film and freeze for 15
minutes. Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F/Gas 3). Roll out the
dough between 2 sheets of cling film until large enough to line a 32
x 15cm (13 x 6in) tart tin. Trim off any excess, prick the base, and
freeze for another 15 minutes, then bake for 10–12 minutes.

2 For the filling, combine the muscovado sugar, syrup, and salt in
a small saucepan and stir over a low heat until the sugar dissolves.
Increase the heat and add the cream, vanilla extract, and pistachio
paste. Reduce the heat and stir for a few minutes. Remove from
the heat, beat until smooth, then leave to cool. Pour it into the tart
base, smooth out, and chill in the fridge.

3 Put the chocolate and butter for the ganache into a bowl.
Combine the cream and sugar in a saucepan and bring to the boil,
stirring all the time. Pour over the chocolate mixture evenly and
leave for 1 minute, before stirring gently to melt. Whisk in the egg
yolks and vanilla. Pour over the tart and return to the fridge to set.
Once set, sprinkle a line of crushed pistachios down either side of
the tart.
4 For the caramelized pear, combine the sugar and cinnamon in a
bowl. Coat the pears in this mixture, then place in a dry pan over a
medium heat. Fry, turning as needed, until golden.

5 For the syrup, put the sour cherries in a small saucepan with
100ml (3½fl oz) water and the cinnamon stick. Bring to the boil and
simmer for 3 minutes. Stir in the maple syrup. Remove and reserve
a few nice-looking cherries, discard the cinnamon stick, then blend
the remaining mixture.
6 For the meringue, dissolve the sugar and cornflour in 2 tbsp
water over a low heat to 121°C (248°F). Whisk the egg whites and
salt to form stiff peaks, then gradually add the hot sugar syrup,
whisking continuously. Whisk until the mixture is cold, then put
into a piping bag. For the Kirsch cream, combine all the ingredients
in a bowl and whisk to soft peaks.

7 To serve, pipe meringue on to a plate, then blowtorch until

golden. Add a rectangular slice of tart, pear slices, and a drizzle of
sour cherry syrup. Serve with a quenelle of the cream, then
sprinkle with the remaining crushed pistachios and the reserved
cherries.

EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see

Make Italian meringue
Chocolate-pistachio salted caramel tart, cinnamon
pear, and Kirsch cream
Banana soufflé with
blueberry coulis
NATALIE BRENNER
Quarter-finalist 2010
PREPARATION TIME 30 minutes
COOKING TIME 25 minutes
SERVES 4
FOR THE COULIS
150g (51⁄2oz) blueberries
50g (13⁄4oz) sugar
FOR THE SOUFFLÉS
15g (1⁄2oz) unsalted butter
4 tsp sugar
1 large, ripe banana, roughly chopped
1 tbsp clear honey
2 large eggs, whites only
1 tbsp caster sugar
TO SERVE
icing sugar
1 tbsp double cream

1 For the coulis, place the blueberries and sugar in a saucepan

with 100ml (31⁄2fl oz) water and bring to the boil. Take off the heat
and allow to cool, then blend, using a hand-held blender or by
transferring to a food processor, and pass through a sieve. Put back
on the heat, bring to the boil, and reduce until syrupy. Set aside to
cool.

2 Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6) and place a baking sheet

in the oven to heat. Evenly grease 4 ramekins with the butter, then
coat the inside with a layer of sugar.

3 Place the banana in a food processor, add the honey, and blend
until smooth.
4 Place the egg whites in a clean, dry bowl and whisk until the
whites form soft peaks. Gradually add the caster sugar, whisking
all the time, until soft peaks are formed.

5 Using a spatula, fold one-third of the egg whites into the banana
mixture relatively vigorously, then very gently fold in the
remainder. Spoon the soufflé mix into the ramekins, tap on the
work surface to expel any air, and run a finger around the rim to
create a “top hat” effect.

6 Put the soufflés on the preheated baking sheet and place in the
oven and bake them for 10–12 minutes until risen.

7 To serve, put the coulis in a small jug on each plate. Place the
soufflés in the ramekins on the plate, and sprinkle icing sugar on
them just before serving.

EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see

Whisk egg whites
EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see
Bake a soufflé
Banana soufflé with blueberry coulis
 Sticky toffee pudding
WENDI PETERS
Celebrity finalist 2009
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes
COOKING TIME 35 minutes
SERVES 4

85g (3oz) sugared, stoned dates, chopped

85g (3oz) light soft brown sugar
45g (11⁄2oz) unsalted butter, softened
1 egg
115g (4oz) plain flour
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
1 tbsp vanilla extract
FOR THE TOFFEE SAUCE
150g (51⁄2oz) demerara sugar
85g (3oz) unsalted butter, softened
4 tbsp double cream
1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Butter a 16 x 12cm (61⁄2 x
5in) ovenproof dish.

2 Put the dates into a bowl and pour over just enough boiling
water to cover them.

3 In a separate bowl, cream together the soft brown sugar and the
butter. Beat the egg into the creamed mixture with some of the
flour before adding the rest of the flour.
4 Add the bicarbonate of soda and vanilla extract to the dates and
then stir into the creamed mixture until well mixed. Pour into the
ovenproof dish and bake in the oven for 30–35 minutes or until
well risen and a cake skewer when inserted comes out clean.
5 Just before the pudding is cooked, make the toffee sauce. Preheat
the grill to hot. Put the demerara sugar, butter, and cream into a
saucepan and heat gently. Let simmer for 3 minutes. Remove the
pudding from the oven, pour over half the sauce, and place under
the grill until it bubbles.
6 Serve the pudding while hot with the remaining sauce poured
over the top or alongside as an accompaniment.
Sticky toffee pudding
 Dark chocolate and
almond torte with
amaretto cream,
raspberries, and
passion fruit
DHRUV BAKER
Champion 2010
PREPARATION TIME 30 minutes
COOKING TIME 30 minutes
MAKES 8 SLICES

150g (51⁄2oz) dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids)

125g (41⁄2oz) unsalted butter
5 eggs, separated
175g (6oz) light soft brown sugar
175g (6oz) ground almonds
100ml (31⁄2fl oz) amaretto, plus 1 tbsp for amaretto cream
100ml (31⁄2fl oz) double cream
1 punnet raspberries
2 passion fruit, peeled, cut in half, and seeds scooped out
icing sugar, to taste
1 Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F/Gas 2). Line the base of a 23cm
(9in) diameter springform baking tin with baking parchment and
butter the sides.
2 Melt the chocolate and butter in a large bowl placed over a
saucepan of simmering water. Once melted, remove from heat and
leave to cool slightly.

3 In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites with a whisk until they
form peaks.

4 Mix the sugar and almonds in the chocolate mixture, then stir in
the egg yolks and the 100ml (3½fl oz) of amaretto.

5 Finally, fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture using a
metal spoon. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin and bake for
about 30 minutes or until firm on top and a skewer comes out
clean. Remove the torte from the oven and allow to cool for a few
minutes.

6 Whip the cream with a whisk and pour in the remaining

amaretto.

7 Put the passion fruit flesh into a blender or food processor and
blend to a pulp. Push through a sieve and add icing sugar to taste.

8 To serve, place a slice of the torte on each plate. Drizzle over

some passion fruit coulis and add a spoonful of the cream and a
few raspberries.

EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see

Whisk egg whites
EGGS AND DAIRY PRODUCTS KNOW-HOW: see
Whip cream
Dark chocolate and almond torte with amaretto
cream, raspberries, and passion fruit
 Baked lime
cheesecake with rum
cream
DENNICE RUSSELL
Semi-finalist 2009
PREPARATION TIME 25 minutes
COOKING TIME 25 minutes
SERVES 4

8 digestive biscuits, crushed

50g (13⁄4oz) unsalted butter, melted
300g (10oz) mascarpone cheese
100g (31⁄2oz) ricotta cheese
1 tbsp plain flour
100g (31⁄2oz) caster sugar
40g (11⁄2oz) desiccated coconut
grated zest and juice of 3 limes, plus strands of lime zest, to
decorate
2 eggs
1 vanilla pod, scraped
FOR THE RUM CREAM
200ml (7fl oz) double cream
1 tbsp icing sugar
4 tbsp dark rum
1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Mix the biscuits into the
melted butter. Place four 10cm (4in) chef’s rings on a baking sheet
and press in the biscuit mix.

2 Put the cheeses, flour, sugar, coconut, lime juice and zest, eggs,
and the seeds of the vanilla pod into a bowl and whisk until
blended.

3 Pour onto the biscuit base and bake for 20 minutes, until golden.
It should be slightly wobbly in the centre when ready. Leave to cool
in the oven.

4 To make the rum cream, put the cream, icing sugar, and rum
into a bowl and whisk to form soft peaks.

5 Put the cooled cheesecakes onto serving plates and top with
quenelles of rum cream and strands of lime.
Baked lime cheesecake with rum cream
Kitchen knives
QUALITY KNIVES ARE A MUST for every cook.
Choose the best you can afford that feel right
for you. They should be well-balanced, made of
high carbon stainless steel (inferior metal will
not give a true, sharp edge), with solid handles
that feel comfortable in your hand. Buy from a
shop where you can touch and feel them,
preferably with an expert on hand to advise
you. Here is a selection of the most important
ones you will need. Well-chosen knives make
food preparation a pleasure.

USE FOR FILLETING AND BONING. A slightly flexible knife with a

narrow blade for sliding under and round bones, and skin of meat,
poultry, and fish.

Filleting knife

USE FOR PEELING AND SMALL CUTTING TASKS. It has a short

blade for easy manoeuvrability, and a sharp point for removing
blemishes.
 Paring knife

USE FOR CARVING SLICES OF MEAT AND POULTRY. It is thinner

and longer than a chef’s knife for precision cutting of thin slices.

Carving knife

USE FOR PREPARING TENDER FRUIT AND VEGETABLES. The

sharp, serrated edge cuts through soft skin and flesh without
damaging it.

Serrated utility knife

USE FOR CHOPPING AND SLICING. Particularly useful for

preparing small amounts of meat, vegetables, or fruit.

Small chef’s knife

USE FOR GENERAL LIGHT CUTTING. Also known as a utility knife.
If not buying a whole range, this is a must-have, multi-purpose
utensil.

All-purpose knife

USE FOR CUTTING BREAD AND SIMILAR FOODS. The long blade
and widely serrated edge make it easy to cut thick or thin, even
slices.

Bread knife

USE FOR PRECISION SLICING. The Japanese chef’s knife is cleverly

constructed to slice delicate meats, fish, and vegetables very
thinly.

Santoku knife

USE FOR A WHOLE RANGE OF TASKS. The tip is for fine chopping
or mincing, the middle for general knife jobs, the heel for heavy-
duty work.
Chef’s knife
Pots and pans
ESSENTIAL KIT FOR EVERY COOK. Choose
pans that are right for you and for your cooker.
The look and feel of them are matters of
personal preference, but each pan needs
particular qualities. Here is some general advice
on what to look for.

CHOOSE A FRYING PAN with flared, not straight, sides. It should

have a handle that is comfortable to hold. It needs a thick base, for
even distribution of heat, so meat and poultry brown quickly and
efficiently, but not too heavy so you can shake and toss food in the
pan easily. Choose one with a lid for covering food when you want
to finish dishes in the oven, or stew them in their own juices on the
hob.

Frying pan

YOUR STEAMER INSET should be made of stainless steel, with a

wide area of tiny holes in the base to allow maximum steam to
surround the food. It should be large enough to fit your biggest pan
but with graduated sides so it also fits a smaller one. You can buy
one as part of a pan set so the lid of the large saucepan also fits the
steamer. If not, choose one with a tight-fitting lid to prevent steam
escaping, and make sure it will fit snugly over your own pots.

Steamer inset

USE YOUR SAUTÉ PAN for frying tender meat, poultry, game, fish,
seafood, vegetables, or fruit quickly in just enough oil or butter (or
a mixture of both) to coat the base of the pan. Choose a pan with
straight sides and a solid base so it conducts and retains the heat
well to maintain a high temperature. Move the food by either
jerking the pan itself or turning the food with a spatula. Don’t toss
as often as for stir-frying, though, or the temperature will reduce
too much. If you put a lid on the pan you can also use it for
braising food.

Sauté pan

A DEEP CASSEROLE is an important piece of equipment for serious

cooks. Use for soups, stews, braises, and boiling joints or puddings.
It should be flameproof and ovenproof so foods can be browned in
it on the hob, the liquid added, brought to the boil, then the whole
thing put in the oven (or finished on the hob) according to the
recipe. Choose the correct sized pot for the amount of food you are
cooking. It is no good putting ingredients for 1 or 2 people in a
huge, family-sized one. They will dry out as there won’t be
sufficient liquid to cover them, and there will be much wasted heat
in the empty pot.

Casserole

USE YOUR BAIN MARIE FOR cooking dishes that require gradual
and gentle heating not in direct contact with the heat source, such
as egg-based sauces (like hollandaise and beurre blanc), custards,
chocolate, and some pâtés and terrines. You can improvise with a
bowl or dish that fits snugly over a pan of gently simmering water.
A roasting tin half-filled with hot water also works well in the
oven.

Bain marie
YOUR SAUCEPANS ARE YOUR trusty friends for all-purpose
cooking. You need, at least, a small, medium, and large one for
general cooking. A small, non-stick one is also good for boiling milk
and making sauces. Choose ones with heavy bases to conduct the
heat well and with close-fitting lids. A useful tip if you are
throwing out old pans is to keep the small one just for boiling eggs
– the calcium deposits do spoil the appearance of the pan in time,
even with regular cleaning with vinegar.

Saucepan

WHAT, NO WOK? You are missing out on a simple, healthy, and

pleasurable way of cooking. The deep, sloping sides allow the food
to be tossed quickly and easily in very little oil. It can also be used
for braising, steaming, deep-frying, and tea-smoking.

Wok
Additional equipment
Choose best-quality equipment to hold you in
good stead for years. Some items are
considered essential, while others are useful
to have if you enjoy particular types of
cooking – and have lots of storage space!
THE MUST-HAVES
APPLE CORER Choose one with a sharp bottom edge to cut easily
into the fruit flesh.

BAKING TINS Buy as you need them. Shallow, rectangular and

deep square for different tray bakes, and a loaf tin are useful to
start.

BLENDER Your food processor or mixer may have one as an

attachment, alternatively buy a hand blender.

BUN TIN A 12-section one is a must for individual cakes, pies,

muffins, and Yorkshire puddings.

CAKE TINS A range of sizes are useful: deep round, and/or

square, with loose bottoms. You need 2 sandwich tins, too.

CARVING FORK It should have 2 long tines to steady the meat

whilst carving, and a protective guard.

GRATER Choose a multi-sided one with different-sized slots and

a comfortable handle. A Parmesan grater is also worth having.

ELECTRIC HAND WHISK For whisking cream, and egg whites, or

instead of a balloon whisk when whisking egg mixtures over a
bain marie.

FISH SLICE It should be flexible enough to slide under foods

without causing damage, and have a heat-proof handle.

FOOD PROCESSOR OR ELECTRIC MIXER Useful attachments

include a whisk, chopper, shredder, and blender.

GRIDDLE PAN A cast-iron, ridged one for chargrilling. You can

also buy a flat one for making Scotch pancakes and oat cakes but
a heavy skillet would also do this instead.
MIXING BOWLS Have several of different sizes. A copper one is
best for whisking egg whites.

PASTRY BRUSH Bristle ones are traditional, silicone is more

practical for all-purpose brushing.

PASTRY CUTTERS Both fluted and plain ones in graduated sizes

are useful.

PIE DISH Choose a fairly deep one for top crust pies. It should
have a lip all around for the pastry to adhere to.

PIPING (PASTRY) BAG WITH NOZZLES For piping and/or filling,

choux buns, meringues, and other mixtures.

POTATO PEELER For preparing vegetables, and shaving cheese

and chocolate.

PUDDING BASINS Choose varying sizes to suit your needs.

RAMEKINS Plain white are the most practical for oven-to-table

use.

ROASTING TIN Have at least 2, one for roasting vegetables, one

for meat. They should be heavy-duty so that it can be heated on
the hob when necessary.

SLOTTED SPOON For removing foods from oil or other liquid.

RUBBER OR PLASTIC SPATULA For scraping out; wooden for

stirring and turning food.

STRAINER/STRAINER INSERT Use with a stockpot or casserole

for making chicken stock or cooking pasta.

SWISS ROLL TIN Use for Swiss rolls and roulades. Also useful as
a shallow baking tin.

TART/FLAN TIN Good to have one loose-bottomed one for easy

removal, and one deep ceramic one for oven-to-table.

WIRE RACK A large rectangular one is the most practical.

THE MIGHT-NEEDS
BAMBOO STEAMER Use to steam vegetables, meat, and fish.

CHEESECLOTH (MUSLIN) A new disposable dish cloth can also

work.

KUGELHOPF MOULD Use any similar sized receptacle instead.

LOBSTER CRACKER/SMALL HAMMER Nut crackers will also do.

MADELEINE TIN Can also use an ordinary bun tin.

MANDOLIN The best way to slice vegetables thinly, but a sharp

knife will do instead.

MEZZALUNA Really useful for chopping herbs.

OMELETTE PAN Choose a heavy-based, non-stick one. A frying

pan can be used instead. Use for crêpes too.

OYSTER KNIFE Any small, sharp-pointed knife will also do.

PESTLE AND MORTAR White porcelain ones are good all-

rounders for looks and efficiency.

PIE PLATE Handy for making double-crust pies.

POULTRY SHEARS The best way to joint poultry or feathered

game, but a sharp cook’s knife will also do.

SEAFOOD FORK/LOBSTER PICK A small cocktail fork or fine

skewer will also do.

SPRINGFORM CAKE TIN Good for more delicate cakes that need
careful handling.
SUGAR THERMOMETER The best way to test sugar stages.

TWEEZERS Useful for pulling out bones when filleting fish, or for
placing intricate garnishes or decorations in place.
Round white sea fish
BUY Some species are dwindling so only buy
those that are sustainably fished. Choose the
freshest, best-looking specimens. Look for
bright eyes and smooth, glistening skin. If fresh,
fish should either have no smell at all, or
should smell pleasantly of the sea, with no
underlying offensive odour. STORE Ideally, fish
should be eaten on the day it’s bought, but it
can be stored for up to 24 hours well-wrapped
in the coldest part of the refrigerator. Freeze
fish in double-layered freezer bags, with as
much air extracted as possible, for up to 3
months.
Coley
EAT Cuts: fillets. Good, cheap alternative to cod. Deep-fry, pan-fry
in batter or breadcrumbs, bake, steam, poach, in fish pie, fish
cakes, and soup. Also available hot-smoked (undyed and dyed),
dried, or salted. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Butter, milk, beer batter,
parsley, chives, bacon, Cheddar cheese. IN SEASON April–
December

Hake
EAT Cuts: fillets, steaks. Some stocks very depleted. Coley or
pollock can be used instead. Pan-fry, roast, poach, sauté, grill. Also
available salted or smoked. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Olive oil, smoked
paprika, butter, lemon, onions, garlic, tomatoes. IN SEASON
August–January

Ling
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets, steaks. Buy line-caught from inshore.
Steam, pan-fry, grill, or bake. Also available salted or dried.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Onions, garlic, potatoes, leeks, bacon,
coriander leaf, parsley, sage, Cheddar cheese. IN SEASON August–
February

Cod
EAT Cuts: fillets, steaks, loins, fresh and pressed roe. Some
successfully farmed. Deep-fry or pan-fry in batter or breadcrumbs,
bake, poach, cook in soup or chowder, grill. Also available cold-
smoked (undyed and dyed), salted, or dried. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Dill, parsley, bay leaf, lemon, olive oil, tomatoes, olives, capers,
garlic, breadcrumbs, butter, cheese sauce, cider, white wine. IN
SEASON May–January

Pollock
EAT Cuts: fillets. Excellent inexpensive alternative to cod and
haddock. Roast, deep-fry, bake, poach, steam. Also available salted
or smoked. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Tomatoes, chillies, pancetta,
basil. IN SEASON May–December

Haddock
EAT Cuts: fillets, loin. Pollock or coley are good alternatives. Deep-
fry or pan-fry in batter or breadcrumbs (considered sweeter than
cod), grill, bake, poach, steam, use in fish pie and for soup. Also
available hot-smoked (Arbroath smokies), cold-smoked (undyed
and dyed), or as traditional Finnan haddock. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Parsley, milk, bay leaf, Cheddar cheese, tomatoes, pea purée,
garlic, onions. IN SEASON May–February

Whiting
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets (single and butterflied). Steam, pan-fry,
grill, bake. Also available salted or smoked. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Tomatoes, chillies, basil, mushrooms, citrus, tartare sauce. IN
SEASON May–February
Sea bream
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets, thick steaks (larger species). Pan-fry, grill,
bake, stuff. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Fennel, Pernod, coriander leaf,
lemon, saffron, parsley, garlic. IN SEASON June–March, available
farmed all year

Grey mullet
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets. Pan-fry, roast, bake. Also available dried or
salted. The smoked roe is the classic one for taramasalata but it is
also available fresh. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Ginger, nutmeg, allspice,
chillies, thyme, lemon, lime, anchovies, tomatoes, onions. IN
SEASON September–May

Red mullet
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets. Pan-fry, grill, bake en papillote. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Citrus, chervil, tarragon, parsley, carrots, celery,
courgettes. IN SEASON August–April
Sea bass
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets. Grill, bake (in a salt crust or en papillote),
pan-fry. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Black bean sauce, soy sauce, ginger,
tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, red peppers, olives, aniseed flavours like
fennel, caraway, and Pernod. IN SEASON July–February, available
farmed all year

Red gurnard
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets. Grey gurnard also available. Roast, pan-
fry, grill. Use cut in pieces in mixed-fish soups and stews.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Olive oil, chorizo, pancetta, garlic, leeks,
onions, white wine. IN SEASON October–May

John Dory
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets. Pan-fry, grill, steam, bake, stew. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Garlic, white wine, cream sauces, mushrooms, sage,
capers, lemon, crème fraîche. IN SEASON September–May
Monkfish
EAT Cuts: tail, fillets, steaks, cheeks, shoulder flaps. The liver is
considered a delicacy. Pan-fry, roast, grill (fillets or kebabs), stir-fry.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chorizo, prosciutto crudo, bacon, sage,
rosemary, butter, olive oil, lemon, lime, chillies, capers,
mushrooms. IN SEASON August–January
Oily sea fish
BUY Choose line- or net-caught fish from
sustainable sources. They should have slippery,
shiny, bright-coloured skin and firm flesh. For
whole fish the eyes should be bright and the
gills prominent, red, and clean. They should
have a mild, pleasantly fishy smell. STORE Best
eaten fresh. Store, well-wrapped, in the coldest
part of the refrigerator for up to 24 hours. If not
previously frozen, they can be frozen like round
white fish for up to 3 months.
Tuna
EAT Cuts: Steaks, whole loins. Grill, pan-fry, stir-fry. Avoid plain
grilling as the flesh pales to an unattractive dull brown. Don’t
overcook – it should be pink in the middle. Can be eaten raw, if
very fresh, as sushi or carpaccio. Also available dried, smoked,
salted, or canned. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Sesame seeds and oil,
teriyaki, rice wine vinegar, wasabi, pickled ginger, tandoori spices,
tomatoes, garlic, olives, capers. IN SEASON All year

Skipjack tuna
 Yellowfin tuna

Sardine or pilchard
EAT Cuts: Whole. Pilchards (Cornish sardines) are just large
sardines. Pan-fry, grill, barbecue, or bake. Also available smoked,
marinated, cured, or canned in olive oil or tomato-based sauce.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Olive oil, garlic, lemon, sultanas, pine nuts,
parsley, oregano, thyme, tomatoes, peppers, chilli, lime, lemon. IN
SEASON September–February

Mackerel
EAT Cuts: Whole, fillets. Grill, barbecue, roast, pan-fry. Also
available smoked, salted or canned. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Basil,
olive oil, garlic, onions, horseradish, mustard, dill, rhubarb,
gooseberries. IN SEASON August–February
Bonito
EAT Cuts: Whole, fillets. Grill or barbecue, pan-fry. Dried flakes are
used in Japanese soup stock. Also available canned. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Sesame seeds, rice vinegar, mirin, cucumber, daikon,
chillies, coriander leaves and seeds, potatoes, onions, green
peppers. IN SEASON July–April

Anchovy
EAT Cuts: Whole fresh, or preserved marinated, or in salt, brine or
oil, in jars or cans, also as paste or essence. Buy sustainably
sourced. Pan-fry whole fresh fish. Add preserved to everything
from salade niçoise to pizzas, pasta sauces and bagna cauda dip,
where they are “melted” in olive oil with spices and butter.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Sherry vinegar, white wine vinegar, shallots,
tomatoes, marjoram, oregano, sage, thyme, parsley, olive oil. IN
SEASON All year

Scad (horse mackerel)

EAT Cuts: Whole, fillets. Grill or barbecue, pan-fry. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Chilli, ginger, soy sauce, Chinese five-spice powder,
coconut milk, tomatoes, peppers. IN SEASON September–May
Salmon
EAT Cuts: Whole, fillets, steaks. It is recommended not to buy wild
salmon as it is becoming rare. Choose good quality farmed salmon
from an MSC-rated source instead. Pan-fry, poach, grill, bake. Also
available smoked, and the salted roe as red keta, a caviar
substitute. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Lemon, butter, hollandaise sauce,
dill, samphire, tarragon, ginger, harissa paste, soy, sesame, chillies,
coriander leaves. IN SEASON Farmed all year

Sprat
EAT Cuts: Whole. Either gut it yourself or cook ungutted and hold
in your fingers to eat off the bone. Pan-fry, grill, or barbecue. Also
available smoked, canned, or salted. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beetroot,
red and white wine vinegar, flat-leaf parsley, coriander leaf and
seeds, lemon. IN SEASON September–February

Herring
EAT Cuts: Whole, fillets, soft and hard roes. Pan-fry, grill or
barbecue, bake, souse or pickle. Tiny immature herrings (and often
other fish) are sold as whitebait but are overexploited so best
avoided. Also available smoked (kippers, bloaters, buckling),
marinated, or canned. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Soured cream, dill,
onions, oatmeal, bacon, horseradish, mustard, lemon, capers,
parsley. IN SEASON All year

Sea trout
EAT Cuts: Whole, fillets, steaks. Also known as salmon trout. It is
the migratory form of the brown river trout. Poach, steam, grill,
pan-fry, bake. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Mayonnaise, watercress,
hollandaise sauce, lemon, dill, parsley. IN SEASON Wild April–
October, available farmed all year
Flat fish
BUY Like other fish, they are not all
sustainable. Real skate, sadly, is very rare, and
wild Atlantic halibut is endangered, so it is now
farmed. Many flat fish, however, are thriving
but may have minimum size fishing
requirements so avoid if small. Choose fish with
firm flesh, moist, not slimy skin, and a fresh
smell. STORE Eat fresh or store, well-wrapped,
for up to 24 hours in the coldest part of the
refrigerator. Freeze whole or fillets (unless
previously frozen) for up to 3 months.

Skate and ray

EAT Cuts: wings, skate "knobs" – muscles taken from the back of
the fish. The skate you buy is actually ray. The thornback, cuckoo
and spotted rays are assessed as sustainable. Pan-fry, deep-fry,
poach, roast. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beurre noisette/noir, capers,
parsley, lemon, vinegar. IN SEASON Thornback September–
February, Cuckoo June–November, Spotted August–March
Dover sole
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets. A 450g (1lb) fish will serve 1 person
generously. Grill, pan-fry. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Butter, lemon,
parsley, tarragon, cucumber, mint, shiitake mushrooms, truffle oil,
white grapes. IN SEASON July–March

Plaice
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets. Pan-fry, poach, deep-fry, steam, bake.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Butter, lemon, parsley, sage, thyme,
breadcrumb- or rice-based stuffing, chestnut mushrooms, grapes,
white wine, potatoes. IN SEASON April–December
Dab
EAT Cuts: whole. Pan-fry, grill. Also available dried, salted, or
smoked. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Shallots, prawns, mushrooms,
parsley, tarragon, lemon, lime, capers, gherkins, anchovy butter. IN
SEASON July–March

Halibut
EAT Cuts: fillets, steaks. Pan-fry, steam, grill, poach, bake. Also
available dried, salted, or cold-smoked. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Butter, beurre blanc, nutmeg, gherkins, capers, lemon, bacon, spicy
sausages, charcuterie. IN SEASON Farmed all year
Turbot
EAT Cuts: fillets, steaks. Steam, pan-fry, bake with a crust, roast,
grill. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Wild mushrooms, Champagne, cream,
butter, shellfish stock, lemon, prawns, Gruyère cheese, Parmesan.
IN SEASON Wild September–March, available farmed all year

Brill
EAT Cuts: fillets, steaks. Excellent and underrated. Pan-fry, poach,
steam, bake with a crust, roast, grill. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon,
shallots, wild mushrooms, white wine, garlic, tomatoes, lemon,
crab or prawn sauce. IN SEASON October–February
Lemon sole
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets. Pan-fry, grill, poach. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Béchamel sauce, parsley, chives, lemon, butter, cider. IN SEASON
September–March
Freshwater fish
BUY One tends to think of fish being from the
sea but, of course, there are many delicious
species that grace British and foreign rivers and
lakes. Several are now farmed, increasing their
sustainability. The skin should be shiny and
slippery or even slimy, the flesh firm and moist,
not wet. On whole fish, the eyes should be
prominent and bright. STORE Unless frozen, eat
on day or purchase, or store well-wrapped in
the bottom of the refrigerator for up to 24
hours. Fresh caught fish can be frozen, gutted,
whole or in fillets, for up to 2 months.
Tilapia
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets. Also available salted or dried. Pan-fry,
deep-fry, steam, bake, barbecue, or grill. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Chilli, palm sugar, nam pla (Thai fish sauce), shrimp paste,
coriander leaves, coconut, galangal. IN SEASON Farmed all year

Barramundi
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets, steaks, the pearl (cheek) is a speciality.
Pan-fry, grill, barbecue, poach, steam. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pak
choi, lime, chilli, fresh herbs, white wine. IN SEASON Wild April–
August, available farmed all year

Catfish
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets. Also available smoked, dried, or salted.
Pan-fry, deep-fry, grill, bake, poach. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Cornmeal, sesame seeds, soured cream, mushrooms, spring
onions, parsley, bay leaf, thyme. IN SEASON Farmed all year

Pike
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets. Also available smoked, salted, dried, and
the cured roe. Pan-fry, grill, steam, poach, roast. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Unsalted butter, sage, lemon, cream, bay leaf, white
wine. IN SEASON Closed 15 March–15 June

Freshwater bream
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets. Grill, bake. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Thyme,
rosemary, fennel, celery, nut oils. IN SEASON Wild July–March,
available farmed all year
Carp
EAT Cuts: whole. Smoked, salted, and cured roe are also available.
Soak in acidulated water to remove slime. Steam, roast, pan-fry,
pané (cook in breadcrumbs), bake. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Paprika,
butter, capers, dill, garlic, parsley, cornmeal, ginger, rice wine,
sesame oil and seeds, fennel. IN SEASON Closed 15 March–15 June

Rainbow trout
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets. Also available hot- or cold-smoked. Pan-
fry, bake, grill, roast. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS White wine vinegar,
butter, lemon chives, almonds, hazelnuts, jambón serrano,
breadcrumbs. IN SEASON Wild January–September, available
farmed all year

Brown trout
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets. Pan-fry, bake, grill, roast, barbecue, “blue
poach” in acidulated water (if just caught). FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Bouquet garni (parsley, thyme, and bay leaf tied together),
watercress-flavoured hollandaise sauce, prawns. IN SEASON Wild
April–September, available farmed all year

Sturgeon
EAT Cuts: whole, steaks, fillets, female roe highly prized, salted as
beluga, oscietra, and sevruga caviar. Also available smoked. Some
species endangered. Pan-fry, bake, steam, and eat raw. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Horseradish, soured cream, beetroot, vinegar, butter,
citrus. IN SEASON Siberian sturgeon farmed all year
Smoked, salted, and dried fish
BUY Choose hot-smoked fish that is moist but
not slimy and has a strong, pleasant aroma.
Pick cold-smoked fish that is dry, glossy, and
smells smoked but not too strong. Some salted
and dried fish has a pungent smell that is not
an indication of poor quality. STORE Keep
smoked fish well-wrapped in the fridge. Best
eaten within 24 hours; vacuum-packed hot-
smoked will keep longer. Freeze for up to 2
months. Salted and dried fish can be kept for
many months, well wrapped, in a cool, dark
place. IN SEASON Available all year.
HOT-SMOKED the fish is cooked during smoking
in a kiln, after brining or salting
Mackerel
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets (plain or encrusted with pepper and other
toppings). Serve cold or as pâté. Can be flaked and added to other
dishes (see kiln-smoked salmon). FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Horseradish, mustard, cream and crème fraîche, cream cheese,
honey, sesame oil, dill, coriander leaves, beetroot, celeriac, waxy
potatoes.

Mackerel fillets

Whole mackerel
Kiln-smoked salmon
EAT Cuts: sides, fillets, ready-flaked. Serve cold or add to quiches,
pasta, or scrambled eggs. Make sure it is piping hot before serving,
but do not overheat or it will toughen and change in texture.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Eggs, rocket, beetroot, soured cream,
horseradish, cream, olive oil, lemon, dill.

Trout
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets. Best eaten cold or as pâté, but can be
flaked and used like kiln-smoked salmon. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Lemon, horseradish, waxy potatoes, rocket, watercress, dill, chives,
cream cheese, crème fraîche.

Trout fillet

Whole trout
COLD-SMOKED the fish remains raw after being
heavily brined and slow-smoked at a low
temperature
Salmon
EAT Cuts: whole sides, slices, trimmings. Smoked salmon and
other more artisanal products (such as smoked swordfish and
tuna) can be simply sliced and served with a squeeze of lemon
juice and a good grinding of black pepper, or added to more
complex dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Citrus, horseradish, dill,
parsley, scrambled eggs.

Haddock
EAT Cuts: fillets, whole (Arbroath smokies, Finnan haddock). Poach
in milk to remove saltiness. The classic fish for kedgeree.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Spinach, rice, eggs, mild curry powder,
tomatoes, parsley, cheese sauce, poached eggs.
Undyed haddock

Dyed haddock
SALTED AND DRIED
Salt cod
EAT Cuts: fillets, steaks. Soak 36–48 hours in several changes of
cold water before use. Poach, bake, casserole, stew. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Olive oil, garlic, parsley, basil, olives, tomatoes, potatoes,
citrus, capers, red peppers, chorizo.

Anchovies
EAT Cuts: whole, fillets. Soak in milk briefly to remove some of the
saltiness, soften, and round the flavour. Use on pizzas or to garnish
Mediterranean dishes like salade niçoise or pissaladière. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Garlic, onions, tomatoes, chillies, olives, cheese,
spinach, pine nuts, butter, olive oil.
Gut a fish through the stomach

1 Place the fish on its side. Holding it firmly, make a shallow

incision in the underside from just before the fin to the head.

2 Remove the guts using your hands, and cut off the gills, taking
care not to cut yourself on them, as they can be very sharp.
3 Rinse the cavity with cold running water to remove any
remaining blood or guts. Pat dry with kitchen paper. The fish can
now be scaled.
Gut a fish through the gills

1 Hook a finger under the gills to lift them from the base of the
head. Using sharp kitchen scissors or a knife, cut off the gills and
discard.

2 Hold the fish steady with one hand while you put your fingers
through the hole formed by the removed gills and pull out the guts.
3 Make a small slit in the stomach at the ventral (anal) opening
and use your fingers to pull out any remaining guts. Rinse under
cold water.
Scale and trim fish

1 Lay the fish on paper on a work surface. Holding the fish by the
tail, use a fish scaler or the blunt side of a chef’s knife to scrape the
scales off, using strokes towards the head. Turn the fish over and
repeat.

2 Using a pair of kitchen scissors, and taking care with any sharp
spines, remove the dorsal (back) fin. Then cut off the belly fins, and
the two on either side of the head.
Skin a dover sole

1 Lay the fish dark-side up on a board. Hold the end of the tail, and
with a sharp knife, make a small incision through the dark skin at
the tail end, cutting at an angle but not all the way through.

2 Using a clean tea towel to give you some grip on the slimy skin,
take hold of the flap of skin where you made your incision, and
slowly pull the skin away, while holding the tail down with the
other hand.
Bone a flat fish

1 With the fish dark-side up, cut to (not through) the backbone (in
the centre) from head to tail. Cut away the flesh one half at a time,
to expose the backbone.

2 Slide the knife under the backbone to cut away the flesh. Use
scissors to snip each end of the backbone, then cut it through the
middle.
3 Lift the backbone pieces from the flesh and discard. Before
stuffing, be sure to check for, and remove, any remaining bones.
Bone a round fish through the
stomach

1 Open the fish by making an incision from the tail to the head.
Using the blade of your knife, loosen the backbone (transverse
bones) on the top side, then turn the fish over to loosen the other
side.

2 Using kitchen scissors, snip the backbone from the head and tail
ends. Starting at the tail, peel the bones away from the flesh and
discard. Check for, and remove, any remaining bones left in the
flesh.
Bone a round fish from the back

1 Cut down the back of the fish, cutting along one side of the
backbone from head to tail. Continue cutting into the fish, keeping
the knife close on top of the bones. When you reach the belly, don’t
cut through the skin.

2 Turn the fish over and cut down the back from tail to head,
along the other side of the backbone. Continue cutting as before, to
cut away the flesh from that side of the backbone too.
3 Using kitchen scissors, snip the backbone at the head and tail
ends, then remove it. Pull out the guts (known as the viscera) and
discard. Rinse the cavity under cold running water and pat dry.

4 Gently open out the stomach cavity and remove any pin bones
(the line of tiny bones down each side of the fish) using large
tweezers or small needle-nose pliers.
Fillet a flat fish

1 Start with a whole fish, skinned, trimmed, and gutted; a Dover

sole is shown here. Slice all the way across the base of the head,
down to the backbone, to separate the fillet from the head.

2 Starting at the head end, cut along one side of the fish, a short
distance from the edge, slicing just above the bone and keeping the
knife almost flat. Make the same cut along the outer edge of the
other side.
3 Returning to the first side, insert the knife and cut all the way
across the fish, with a long stroking action. Release the fillet at the
backbone and continue cutting to the other side, until the whole
fillet is released.

4 Lift off the fillet in a single piece and then turn the fish over to
repeat the process. Smaller types of flat fish, such as Dover sole,
are commonly cut into whole fillets and a single fish will be
enough for two people.
Fillet a small round fish

1 If you are leaving the skin on the fillets, first scale the fish. Then,
with a long, sharp filleting knife, cut into the fish at the head end,
behind the gills, cutting at an angle until the blade reaches the
backbone.

2 Beginning just behind the head, and near the gills, insert the
knife, and keeping it flat, cut the fish along the length of the back,
cutting along the top side of the backbone.
3 Then starting again just behind the head, continue cutting over
the bone, keeping the blade as flat as possible, and folding the fillet
back as you go. Once you have reached the tail end, remove the
fillet.

4 Set the first fillet aside and turn the fish over. Repeat the process
to remove the second fillet, but this time make an incision just
before the tail and cut towards the head.
Prepare flat fish

1 Place the fish on a board, dark-side down. Cut along the stomach
with a sharp knife and pull out the guts and any roe.

2 Cut off the fins on both sides of the fish with sharp kitchen
scissors, taking care not to cut into the body.
3 Put some greaseproof paper underneath the fish and scrape off
the scales with a fish scaler or the back of a chef’s knife.

4 Use your finger to hook the gills away from the body, and then
cut them off with scissors. Rinse the fish under cold running water.
5 To skin the flat fish, place it dark-side up on a board, then using
scissors, cut off the fins about 5mm (¼in) from the body.

6 Turn the fish over and slide a sharp knife just under the skin at
the tail end, while you pull the dark skin away with your other
hand.
Cut fish steaks

1 Gut the fish through the stomach, then scale it and trim off the
fins. Rinse the fish inside and out under cold running water and
pat dry with kitchen paper. Cut off the head at a point just behind
the gills.

2 Holding the cleaned, dried fish firmly on its side with one hand,
use a sharp chef’s knife to cut across the body to slice away steaks
of the required thickness.
Skin a fillet

1 Place the fillet skin-side down. Using a long, sharp knife, make
an incision near the tail end, tilting the blade at a slight angle.
Carefully cut through the flesh just to, but not through, the skin.

2 Angle the blade of the knife until it is almost flat, and with your
other hand, firmly grasp the end of the skin. Keep the knife as
close to the skin as possible as you cut, and slowly pull the skin
away from the fillet.
Serve whole cooked fish

1 Carefully cut along the top of the fish from head to tail, then
starting from the top, gently pull away the skin, working towards
the stomach. Remove any dark flesh and scrape away the tiny
bones along the back.

2 Using the edge of a spoon, cut down the centre of the fish and
carefully lift away the top 2 fillets, one at a time. Break the
backbone at the head and tail ends and remove. Replace the top
fillets on the fish.
Serve whole flat fish

1 Place the fish on a warmed plate. Using a knife and spoon, push
away the tiny fin bones from both sides of the fish. Cut along both
sides of the backbone with the spoon, just through the flesh as far
as the bone.

2 Lift off the top 2 fillets, one at a time and set aside. Lift out the
backbone and discard. Check for any stray bones and remove
them, then replace the top fillets on the fish.
Bake fish in foil

1 Use this technique for baking a whole fish. If your chosen recipe
includes a stuffing, spoon it into the cavity, then secure in place
with 1 or 2 wooden cocktail sticks.

2 Wrap the fish in lightly oiled or buttered foil to make a well-

sealed parcel. Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F/Gas 4) for
25 minutes for small fish, or 35–40 minutes for large fish, or until
the flesh along the back is opaque.
Steam fish

1 To use a bamboo steamer, pour water into a wok to just below

where the steamer fits (make sure it doesn’t touch the water). Add
any flavourings, then bring the water to a simmer. Put the basket
in the wok.

2 Put the fish in the steamer and sprinkle over any extra
flavourings. Cover tightly, and steam fillets for 3–4 minutes, whole
fish up to 350g (12oz) for 6–8 mins, and up to 900g (2lb) for 12–15
minutes.
Grill fish

1 Brush a grill rack with oil. Add the fish, brush the surface with
oil, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Position the grill rack
10cm (4in) from the heat and grill for half the time specified in the
recipe.

2 Using a pair of tongs, carefully lift the fish from the rack and
turn over. Continue grilling for the remaining time specified, or
until the flesh flakes easily when tested with a fork.
Pan-fry fish

1 Heat equal amounts of oil and butter in a heavy frying pan over
a medium-high heat until foaming. Season the fish, then add it to
the pan, skin-side down, and fry for half the time specified in the
recipe.

2 Use a spatula or fish slice to turn the pieces over, then continue
frying the fish for the remaining cooking time, or until it is light
golden brown and the flesh flakes easily when tested with a fork.
Batter and fry fish

1 Mix the batter by combining 150g (5½oz) plain flour, 2 tsp dried
yeast, 1 tbsp sunflower oil, and 180ml (6fl oz) beer, and leave to
stand for 30 minutes. Put 2 tbsp seasoned flour in a dish and coat
the pieces of fish.

2 Beat the egg white in a medium bowl until stiff peaks form when
the whisk is lifted. Gently fold the whisked egg white into the
batter, using a wooden spoon, until combined.
3 Using a 2-pronged fork, dip a piece of fish in the batter, turning
to coat thoroughly. Lift out the fish and hold it over the bowl for 5
seconds so excess batter can drip off.

4 Heat enough groundnut or other oil for deep frying to 190°C

(375°F). Carefully lower the fish, 1 or 2 pieces at a time into the oil
and deep-fry, turning once, for 6–8 minutes, or until golden brown
and crisp.
Shellfish, other seafood, and
specialities
BUY Shellfish, seafood, and other creatures
should look fresh, shells should be unbroken,
and bivalves shut (or will close when tapped
sharply). There should be signs of life in all live
creatures. Crabs and lobsters should feel heavy
for their size. All seafood should smell
pleasantly of the sea. STORE Unless frozen, eat
on day of purchase. Live crustaceans and
molluscs can be stored briefly below 3°C (37°F)
in a lightly covered bowl towards the bottom of
the refrigerator. Cover live lobsters or crabs
with a damp tea towel or seaweed to prevent
dehydration.
Brown crab
EAT Available occasionally live, mostly cooked whole and claws,
ready dressed in shell, white crabmeat, frozen and canned. Toss
into salads, reheat in pasta and rice dishes, sauté, in soups and
sandwiches. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Mayonnaise, chilli, lemon,
parsley, dill, potatoes, butter, Worcestershire sauce, anchovies. IN
SEASON July–March
Fresh water crayfish
EAT Available whole, live or cooked, or frozen cooked, and tails.
Native white ones (pictured) are endangered. Buy farmed signal
crayfish. For live, freeze for 45 minutes to stun, then boil for 5
minutes, or sauté. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Melted butter, salad
leaves, mayonnaise, citrus. IN SEASON Farmed all year

Lobster
EAT Available live whole, or cooked, whole and tail meat, fresh or
frozen. For live, freeze for 2 hours to stun, then boil 10 minutes per
450g (1lb), split and grill, bake, or eat cold. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Mayonnaise, brandy, white wine, sherry, citrus, Parmesan, cream,
chilli, tarragon, parsley, chives, salad leaves, shallots. IN SEASON
October–June

Langoustine (Dublin Bay prawn)

EAT Available whole, live, or cooked, shelled tails, breaded scampi,
fresh or frozen. Boil, pan-fry, poach, deep-fry (breaded scampi).
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Mayonnaise, citrus, tomatoes, garlic, butter,
tarragon, lovage, parsley, chives, tartare sauce. IN SEASON
December–August

Brown shrimp
EAT Available whole, raw, or cooked. Plunge raw in boiling, salted
water briefly until they turn brown. Fiddly to peel but delicious.
Traditionally potted. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Butter, lemon, nutmeg,
mace, cayenne, Tabasco. IN SEASON All year

Squid
EAT Available baby or large, fresh whole, frozen tubes and rings,
battered or crumbed rings. Also smoked or canned. Pan-fry, stir-
fry, deep-fry, griddle, barbecue, braise, casserole, stew, stuff, also
raw in sushi. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Garlic, turmeric, black pepper,
spring onions, chillies, other seafood, olive oil, citrus, tomatoes,
mayonnaise. IN SEASON June–November
North Atlantic prawn
EAT Usually available cooked, whole or shelled, fresh, frozen, or
canned. Eat cold in salads or sandwiches, or sauté very briefly.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Mayonnaise, Marie Rose sauce, garlic, butter,
citrus, chilli, avocado, melon, cucumber. IN SEASON November–
May
Tiger prawn
EAT Available raw and cooked, peeled and unpeeled, fresh or
frozen. Sauté, steam, grill or barbecue, bake, stir-fry, deep-fry
battered as tempura. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Mayonnaise, garlic,
chilli, curry spices, capers, paprika, citrus, butter, tamari, soy
sauce, coconut, sesame seeds. IN SEASON Farmed all year
Octopus
EAT Available fresh or frozen, whole, or prepared (may be tumbled
– ready tenderized – if not, beat with a meat mallet before cooking).
Frozen octopus don’t need to be tenderized. Also available canned,
marinated, smoked, or dried. Braise or stew. Blanch baby octopus
briefly, then marinate to serve. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Red wine,
onions, balsamic vinegar, parsley, sage, rosemary, paprika, chilli,
olive oil, soy sauce, sesame oil, rice vinegar. IN SEASON August–
November

Periwinkle
EAT Available live or cooked in the shell, shucked fresh, and
pickled in vinegar. Rinse live ones in salt water before boiling for 3–
5 minutes. Pick off the sucker, then extract the meat with a winkle
picker or pin. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chilli vinegar, malt vinegar,
lemon juice, garlic butter, watercress. IN SEASON July–January

Clam
EAT Available live in the shell, or shucked frozen, canned, or as
clam juice. There are several species (surf clams pictured). Chop
large clams or cook in chowder, shuck smaller specimens and
enjoy them raw, or steam open to add to soups, pasta, or rice.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cream, onions, garlic, white wine, chives,
parsley, oregano, thyme, bay leaf, tomatoes. IN SEASON October–
April

Mussels
EAT Available live in the shell, cooked fresh, frozen, canned, in
vinegar, or smoked. Green-lipped usually sold cooked on half shell,
or frozen. Steam, bake, grill, stuff. Remove the shell if adding to
soups or stews. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS White wine, cider, Pernod,
butter, garlic, cream, shallots, chillies, fennel, ginger, lemongrass,
parsley, coriander leaves, dill, rosemary. IN SEASON Wild October–
March, available farmed all year

Green-lipped mussels

Common mussels
Whelk
EAT Available live and cooked in the shell. Rinse live ones in salted
water before boiling for 10–12 minutes. Pick off sucker and extract
the meat with a pin or small fork. Eat, or crumb-coat and fry first.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Malt vinegar, garlic butter, parsley, tarragon,
chives. IN SEASON January–September

Razor clam
EAT Available live in the shell. Best lightly steamed or grilled (the
flesh toughens if overcooked). Good served in their shells with
flavoured butter or a sauce. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Garlic, butter,
parsley, coriander leaves, white wine, shallots, cream, chilli. IN
SEASON October–April

Cockle
EAT Available live in the shell, or cooked and shucked, frozen, in
jars in brine or vinegar. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Malt vinegar, parsley,
capers, gherkins, cucumber. IN SEASON September–February
Sea urchin
EAT Available whole, live. Also fermented to make sea urchin
paste. Eat raw, bake with eggs, or add to creamy fish sauces.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Lemon, black pepper, eggs, cream. IN
SEASON Available all year (best September–April)

Abalone
EAT Available fresh in the shell, frozen meat/steaks ready
tenderized, canned, dried, salted. Tenderize fresh by pounding
before cooking. Sauté or pan-fry briefly. Add dried to soup and
simmer a long time to add flavour. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Shiitake
mushrooms, sesame, soy sauce, ginger, garlic, butter, parsley,
oyster sauce. IN SEASON Restricted wild harvest, available farmed
all year
Oysters
EAT Available live in the shell, smoked, and canned. Shuck and
serve raw with their juice in the half shell, deep-fry, pan-fry,
poach, grill, bake. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS (Raw) red wine vinegar,
shallots, Tabasco, lemon juice; (cooked) anchovy essence, butter,
spinach, cream, Parmesan cheese. IN SEASON Native September–
April, Pacific farmed all year

Native oysters
 Pacific oysters

Scallops
EAT Available in the shell, prepared on half shell, prepared and
trimmed (processed). Also frozen (with or without coral), canned,
smoked, or dried. Pan-fry (fresh and smoked), steam, poach, grill,
or barbecue. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, chorizo, black pudding,
red peppers, red onion, olive oil, sesame oil, black beans, spring
onions, chillies, ginger, cream, bay leaf, parsley. IN SEASON King
October–March; Queen June–September

King scallop
 Queen scallop

Snails
EAT Available live in the shell but often bought ready-cooked
vacuum-packed with their shells, or canned with shells separately.
If live, they need purging for several days before boiling. Once
cooked, bake in garlic butter, or add shucked ones to tarts or
terrines. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Garlic butter with lemon or
rosemary, olive oil with red wine vinegar and black pepper. IN
SEASON Available farmed all year

Frogs’ legs
EAT Available fresh or frozen. Avoid wild, buy farmed. Pan-fry, add
to soup. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Butter, lemon, garlic, black pepper,
Calvados, cream, apple, mixed herbs. IN SEASON Available farmed
all year (best April–October)
Clean a live lobster

1 Keep the the claws closed with rubber bands. Hold the lobster
firmly on a board. Push the tip of a heavy chef’s knife into the head
and quickly bring the blade down towards the board, splitting the
lobster in two.

2 Hold the lobster’s body with one hand, while you remove the
claws with the other. Do this either by twisting the claws off, or if
that is not possible, by cutting them off with the chef’s knife.
3 Now separate the main sections of the lobster by firmly holding
the body with one hand, and the head the other. Then twist them
in opposite directions and pull apart.

4 Using a spoon, remove the tomalley (the green coloured liver)

and any coral (the black roe) from the head and tail sections, and
set aside to use in a sauce or stuffing. You can now cook the tail
section and claws.
Clean a live crab

1 Hold the crab on its back, insert the tip of a chef’s knife directly
behind the eyes, and quickly bring the blade down. Pull and twist
off the tail.

2 Holding down the central part of the body and the leg section
with one hand, pull off the top shell with the other.
3 Using kitchen scissors, cut off the gills and remove the spongy
bag behind the eyes. Cut the crab in half, or into quarters.
Clean a live soft-shell crab

1 Hold the crab firmly, then using sharp kitchen scissors, make a
cut across the front of the crab to remove the eyes and mouth.

2 Now pull the top shell away slightly, so that you can cut away
and discard the gills from both sides of the body.
3 Turn the crab onto its back. Unfold the tail flap (the apron) and
pull it off. This procedure also removes the guts (viscera).
Extract the meat from a cooked
lobster

1 Rinse the lobster under cold running water and pat dry with
kitchen paper, then place on a cutting board. Take hold of the tail
and twist it sharply away from the body to detach it.

2 Set the lobster’s body aside and turn the tail over with the shell-
side down. Using a pair of sharp kitchen scissors, and beginning at
the far end of the tail, cut down the centre towards the thickest
part.
3 Using your thumbs, pull the shell apart along the line where you
cut it with scissors, and fold the shell back. You should now be
able to extract the meat in one piece.

4 To remove the meat from the claws, crack them open with a
lobster cracker or a small hammer. Once the shell has been
opened, extract the meat inside carefully, and discard any
attached membrane.
Dress a cooked crab

1 Pull away the claws and legs and set aside, then twist off the tail
flap and discard. To separate the body from the carapace, crack it
under the tail, then prise the two sections apart, pulling the body
from the tail end.

2 Remove the gills (dead man’s fingers) attached to the main body,
and check for stray gills left in the carapace. Remove the stomach
sac as well, which will either be attached to the body or in the
carapace.
3 Cut the body of the crab into quarters and pick out the white
meat, using a seafood fork or lobster pick. Remove any pieces of
shell or membrane. Scoop out the brown meat from the carapace
with a spoon.

4 Break the shell of the claws with a lobster (or nut) cracker.
Extract the meat, and remove the cartilage, then check for any
shell or membrane. Crack the legs across their narrowest part,
then pick the meat with a fork.
Clean mussels

1 As mussels are cooked and often served in their shells, they

must be thoroughly cleaned. Scrub the mussels under cold running
water to brush away any grit, and scrape off barnacles with a small
knife.

2 Live mussels usually have a fibrous attachment called a “beard”

which needs to be removed. Pinch the stringy thread between your
finger and thumb and firmly jerk it away from the mussel shell.
Prepare prawns

1 To remove the intestinal vein, cut lightly along the back of the
prawn with a paring knife. Remove the vein with your fingers or
the knife tip, and rinse the prawn under cold running water.

2 To butterfly a prawn, cut along the deveined back and splay it

open, but take care not to cut all the way through. Rinse under
cold running water and pat dry with kitchen paper.
Prepare scallops

1 Scrub the shell under cold running water before you open the
scallop. Slide a knife between the top and bottom shell to open it,
then carefully detach the scallop from the bottom shell with the
knife.

2 Pull away and discard the viscera and frilled membrane. You can
leave the cream and orange coral (roe) attached to the scallop, or
remove it too if you wish. Gently rinse the scallop under cold
running water.
Pick cooked crayfish

1 Crayfish should be cooked in a large pan of boiling water or

flavoured broth for 5–7 minutes and then removed to cool. When
they are cool enough to handle, simply break off the head section.

2 Now hold the tail between your thumb and forefinger, and
gently squeeze the tail until you hear the shell crack. Remove the
meat in one piece by carefully pulling away the sides of the shell.
Open oysters

1 Hold the oyster flat in a towel, and insert the tip of an oyster
knife into the hinge to open the shell. Keep the blade close to the
top of the shell so the oyster is not damaged. Cut the muscle, and
lift off the top shell.

2 Detach the oyster from the bottom shell by carefully sliding the
blade of your knife beneath the oyster. Oysters can be served raw
on the half shell (scrub the shells thoroughly before opening), or
removed and cooked.
Open clams

1 Clean the clams under cold running water and discard any open
ones. Place the clam in a towel to protect your fingers, then insert
the tip of a long sharp knife and twist to force the shells apart.

2 Using the tip of your knife, sever the muscle that attaches the
clam to the shell, and release the clam. If using soft-shell clams,
remove and discard the dark membrane before serving.
Clean squid

1 First pull the mantle (the body) and tentacles apart. The head,
viscera, and ink sac will come away with the tentacles. The black
“ink” can be used to flavour and colour sauces, pasta, and rice.

2 Next, push a forefinger into the body cavity, to extract the

transparent, plastic-like quill (the inner lining). Hook your finger
around it, pull it out, and discard.
3 Separate the tentacles from the head, cutting above the eye.
Discard the head and viscera, but retain the ink sac if required by
your chosen recipe. (Be sure to use it immediately though, or
discard.)

4 Open the tentacles to pull out the ball-shaped beak and discard
it. Rinse the tentacles and mantle under cold running water, then
pat dry with kitchen paper. The squid is ready to be cooked.
Poultry
BUY Intensively farmed poultry is cheaper than
organic or free-range birds but doesn’t have the
same flavour or texture. Buy poultry from a
quality source, and check that the meat is
plump and not dry. The bird should have a
clean fresh smell, and the skin should have no
tears or bruising. If corn-fed it will be yellow; if
not, the flesh should be pale pink with whitish
skin. Also available frozen and smoked. STORE
Put in a sealed container in the bottom of the
fridge, so that it can’t touch or drip on other
foods. If the bird has giblets, remove and store
separately. Cook within 2 days. Freeze fresh
poultry for up to 12 months (3 months for
giblets). Thaw completely before cooking.
Whole chicken
EAT Roast, pot-roast, poach. Stuff the neck end, if liked, or, when
roasting, put a whole onion and/or fresh herbs/lemon in the body
cavity for added flavour. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Sage and onion or
parsley and thyme stuffing, lemon, honey, barbecue sauce, Cajun
spices, Tandoori spices, paprika, bread sauce, redcurrant jelly,
cider, white wine.
Chicken leg quarter
EAT The drumstick and thigh together. Stew, casserole, or
marinate or add a spicy rub, then barbecue or grill. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Cajun or curry spices, thyme, tarragon, chives, garlic,
lardons, red or white wine, cider, mushrooms, tomatoes.

Chicken breast quarter

EAT The whole breast with the wing and part of the rib cage and
backbone attached. Use in the same way as the leg quarter;
particularly good stewed with cider, or dipped in milk then
flavoured breadcrumbs and oven-fried in sizzling oil. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS As for leg quarter, but also bananas, bacon, sweetcorn,
soured cream, chives.
Chicken drumstick
EAT The end of the leg, excellent finger food. Roast, grill, or
barbecue plain, marinated, or basted with sauce. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Butter, olive oil, garlic, barbecue sauce, sweet and sour
sauce, cumin, garam masala, curry paste, harissa paste, chilli,
Worcestershire sauce, honey, lemon.

Chicken thigh
EAT Cheaper than breasts, sold with or without skin, boned or
whole. Roast plain (boned can be stuffed first), casserole, curry,
braise. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Curry spices, pesto, olive oil, chopped
fresh herbs, garlic.
Chicken wing
EAT Popular barbecued as buffalo wings and for making stock.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chinese five-spice powder, soy sauce,
barbecue sauce, jerk seasoning, Cajun spices, garam masala.

Chicken breast
EAT One of the most popular cuts, being tender and easy to cook.
Available with or without skin. Can be cooked whole, cut in strips
or cubes, or beaten flat as escalopes. Stir-fry, pan-fry, grill (with
skin or wrapped in bacon), stew, or casserole. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Thai green curry paste, coconut, nam pla, ginger, oyster sauce,
black bean sauce, bacon/pancetta, chorizo, prawns.
Chicken supreme
EAT The breast with part of the wing bone attached. Sold with or
without skin. Good for stuffing before cooking (like chicken Kiev),
then coat in egg and crumbs, pan-fry, bake. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Butter, fresh herbs, garlic, cream, white wine, brandy, white
grapes, mushrooms.

Poultry liver
EAT Fresh or frozen. Trim, chop, and sauté until cooked but soft.
Serve on bruschetta or salad leaves, with pasta or rice, or in pâtés
and terrines. Slice fresh foie gras and quickly fry, or, if preserved,
serve chilled. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Butter, garlic, shallots, woody
herbs, bacon, eggs, truffles, figs, prunes, Sauternes, sherry.
Poussin
EAT The French name for young chicken. Sold 4–6 weeks old.
Roast, bake, or simmer whole or stuffed birds; grill, fry, or barbecue
spatchcocked ones. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, garlic, shallots,
tomatoes, citrus, mushrooms, saffron, lemongrass, kaffir lime,
rosemary, thyme, tarragon, bay leaf, pesto, soy sauce, white wine,
barbecue sauce.

Whole duck
EAT Roast or pot-roast whole, or cut in portions. Prick with a fork
and rest on a trivet in a roasting tin to allow fat to drain away.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Sage, onion, garlic, spring onions, apples,
oranges, turnips, ginger, cherries, soy sauce, hoisin sauce, honey,
vinegar, wine, peas, baby white onions, lettuce. IN SEASON All
year

Duck breast
EAT Sold with or without skin and in goujons. If cooking with skin,
score or prick it, then pan-fry skin-side down or grill skin-side up to
melt and release fat. Use a little oil or butter if cooking without
skin. Good in warm salads. Stir-fry goujons. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Berries, currants, pomegranate, baby leaves, cherry tomatoes,
cucumber, red onion, olives, fruit vinegar, olive oil, pomegranate
syrup.

Duck crown
EAT A convenient joint for carving – it is the breast (the choicest
part) with wings, no legs. Best roasted but can be braised.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS The same as for the whole bird, but try
rubbing with smoked sea salt before cooking.

Duck leg portion

EAT Grill, fry, roast, casserole, or use to make confit. Prick the skin
before cooking to release the fat. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS All the
above plus juniper berries, coriander seeds, thyme for confit.

Whole goose
EAT Stuff neck end only. Roast. Goose leg confit is also available.
Can be jointed and braised, or casseroled. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Apples, onions, red cabbage, tomatoes, white beans, spicy
sausages, ginger, sage, oatmeal, almonds, apricots, prunes, soy
sauce, red wine. IN SEASON September–December (some for
Michaelmas in September but most bred for Christmas)

Whole turkey
EAT Roast (stuff neck end only). Pot-roast or poach smaller birds.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chestnuts, cranberries, thyme, parsley, sage,
tarragon, sausagemeat, bacon,root vegetables, Brussels sprouts. IN
SEASON All year, some speciality birds reared just for Easter and
Christmas
Turkey steak
EAT Thick slices cut from the breast or top of the leg. Pan-fry,
poach, or cut in strips or dice, then stir-fry or casserole. Good
beaten flat for escalopes, coated in egg and breadcrumbs, then
fried. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Ham, cheese (for topping), peppers,
tomatoes, mushrooms, sage, tarragon, thyme, parsley, chives,
oregano, redcurrant jelly.

Turkey crown
EAT Also called bone-in saddle, good for those who don’t like dark
meat, and easier to cook than a whole bird. Best roasted. Try
masking in bacon or putting flavoured butter or oily paste under
the skin to keep it moist. Turkey breast joint and boned roll also
available. The legs and thighs are also sold separately. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS As for whole bird, but also pancetta, garlic butter,
tarragon butter, pesto, tapenade.
Game birds
BUY Wild game should only be bought in
season. Buy from reliable sources and don’t
accept any illegally shot birds. Quail are
farmed. Game birds may have a strong smell
but shouldn’t be rancid. The flesh should be
firm and the skin taut. Avoid if bruised or those
with badly shot breasts. Guinea fowl (not
shown as not, technically, game birds) should
be cooked like chicken. STORE Remove all
giblets and store separately. Wrap well and
store on a plate at the bottom of the fridge for
2–3 days. Birds can be frozen for 6 months,
giblets for 3 months.
Grouse
EAT Available whole or as boned breasts. Allow 1 whole bird or 2
breasts per person. Bard (cover) with bacon and roast whole, pan-
fry, grill, or braise. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, ham, celery,
shallots, watercress, wild mushrooms, game chips, bread sauce,
buttered crumbs, orange, honey, juniper berries, redcurrants,
cranberries, whisky, wine. IN SEASON 12 August–10 December (30
November in Northern Ireland)
Partridge
EAT Sold whole. Roast (bard with bacon first), pan-fry, grill, braise.
Allow 1 bird per person. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, cream,
cabbage, watercress, lentils, shallots, wild mushrooms, grapes,
lemon, pears, quinces, redcurrants, chestnuts, walnuts, turnips,
kohl rabi, juniper berries, sage, chocolate, wine. IN SEASON 1
September–1 February (31 January in Northern Ireland)
Woodcock
EAT Available whole. Roast boned and stuffed, or whole;
spatchcock to grill or pan-fry. It is traditionally roasted undrawn,
with the beaked head pushed into the body to truss it, usually
served on a fried or toasted croûte. Allow 1 bird per person.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Butter, bacon, cream, shallots, garlic,
watercress, ginger, bay leaf, parsley, thyme, nutmeg, lemon,
apples, grapes, soy sauce, Madeira. IN SEASON 1 October–31
January

Quail
EAT Available whole. Bard with bacon and roast, halve or
spatchcock to grill, pan-fry, or braise. Allow 1 or 2 birds per person.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, butter, cream, peppers, mushrooms,
truffle, quinces, grapes, cherries, prunes, almonds, honey, cumin,
cinnamon, brandy, white and red wine. IN SEASON Farmed all
year

Pheasant
EAT Traditionally sold as a brace (cock and hen). Available whole,
and boned breasts sold separately. Roast whole (bard with bacon
first), braise, or casserole. Pan-fry or grill breasts. Allow 1 bird for
2–3 people, or 1 breast per person. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon,
cream, celery, onions, cabbage, apples, quinces, bitter oranges,
prunes, walnuts, beetroot, Jerusalem artichokes, game chips, bread
sauce, buttered crumbs, Calvados, brandy, red wine, port, cider. IN
SEASON 1 October–1 February (31 January in Northern Ireland)
Teal
EAT The smallest wild duck. One bird will only give a small portion
but the flavour is worth it. Roast quickly (serve slightly pink),
braise, or casserole. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Apples, bitter oranges,
sage, thyme, white wine, peas, onions and lettuce (for braising),
cider, spring onions, hoisin and plum sauce, soy sauce, ginger,
garlic. IN SEASON 1 September–31 January

Wood pigeon
EAT Pigeons and squabs (farmed birds) are sold whole, as crowns,
or as boned breasts. Allow 1 bird or 2–3 breasts per person. Stew,
casserole, or cook in pies. Quickly roast young birds. Pan-fry or grill
breasts (serve pink). FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, cream, red
cabbage, mushrooms, spinach, chilli, garlic, orange, redcurrants,
blueberries, juniper berries, chocolate, honey, soy sauce, red wine.
IN SEASON All year (best February–May)
Mallard
EAT Sold whole or as pairs of breasts. Grill or fry breasts (cook
rare), and thinly slice to serve. Roast whole young birds. Braise,
stew, or casserole older ones. Allow 1 breast or 1 bird between 2–3
people. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Ginger, garlic, mushrooms, onions,
coriander leaf, parsley, sage, apples, bitter oranges, plums,
cherries, redcurrants, cider, red wine, soy sauce. IN SEASON 1
September–31 January
Joint a chicken

1 To remove the wishbone, scrape the flesh away from it, using a
sharp knife, then twist it with your fingers and discard.

2 With the chicken breast-side up on a board, use a sharp knife to

cut through the thigh joint and separate the leg from the rest of
the bird.
3 Now pull the leg back to dislocate the leg joint. You should hear
a distinct popping sound when the ball separates from the socket.

4 If there is any skin or meat still attached to the bird’s body, use
your knife to free it. Repeat steps 2 and 3 to remove the other leg.
5 Pull the wing straight, then cut through the middle joint with
poultry shears to remove the winglet. Repeat for the other winglet.

6 Now grasp the backbone with your hands and firmly pull it away
from the upper part of the body (the 2 breasts and wings).
7 To remove the lower end of the backbone, use poultry shears to
cut it away from the remaining body.

8 Starting at the neck, use poultry shears to cut all the way
through the backbone to separate the breasts.
9 The chicken is now cut into 4 pieces. Any leftover bones (such as
the backbone) can be used to make chicken stock.

10 Use poultry shears to cut each breast in half diagonally,

producing one wing and one breast. Repeat to separate the other
breast.
11 Cut each leg through the knee joint (above the drumstick) that
connects to the thigh, and cut through to separate.

12 Now, there are two drumsticks, 2 thighs, 2 wings, and 2

breasts. The chicken is divided into 8 pieces.
Bone a chicken breast

1 Working from the widest end of the breast (the wing), use sharp
poultry shears to cut away the backbone and ribs.

2 Now use a sharp knife to cut the meat away from the bone. To
create a neat fillet, carefully follow the shape of the breastbone.
3 There will be a small inner fillet on the underside of the breast.
To remove it, cut away any connecting membrane.
Bone a leg

1 Place the leg skin-side down on a board. Using a sharp knife, cut
the flesh away from the start of the thigh bone and work down.

2 Using the same technique, start from the knuckle and cut all the
way down the length of the drumstick.
3 Lift the bones up from the central knuckle joint. Then using
short strokes with the tip of your knife, remove the 2 bones from
the flesh.
Bone a thigh

1 Place the thigh skin-side down on a cutting board. Using a small,

sharp knife, pierce the flesh at one end of the thigh bone and
carefully cut away the flesh to expose it.

2 Make another small incision through the flesh, following the

contour of the exposed bone. Cut around the bone to cut it
completely free from the flesh and discard, or use for stock.
Bone a drumstick

1 Holding the drumstick steady, and starting in the middle of the

drumstick, insert the tip of your knife until you locate the bone.
Slice along the bone in both directions to expose it fully.

2 Open the flesh out and using short strokes to minimize tearing,
neatly cut around the bone to free it completely from the flesh and
discard, or use for stock.
Spatchcock a bird for grilling

1 Place the bird upside down. Cut along one side of the backbone
using sharp poultry shears, then do the same along the other side,
and take out the backbone. Open out the two halves and turn the
bird over.

2 Press down on the bird with both hands to flatten it out to a

more uniform thickness. This will help both to tenderize the meat
and make sure that it cooks more evenly.
3 Once flattened out, use a sharp knife to cut a few slashes into
the legs and thighs. This will help the heat to penetrate the dense
flesh of the thigh and leg meat more thoroughly.

4 Push a metal skewer through the right leg to the left wing, and
another one through the left leg to the right wing, to form an “X”
shape. The spatchcocked bird can now be marinated before being
grilled or roasted.
Deep-fry chicken

1 Cream butter and herbs or other flavourings according to your

chosen recipe. Shape into a block, wrap in foil and freeze.

2 Flatten the chicken breasts by placing each one between 2 sheets

of cling film before flattening out gently with a rolling pin.
3 Divide the butter into 4 pieces and put one in the centre of each
flattened chicken breast. Roll the escalope tightly around the
butter.

4 Once the escalope is tightly rolled, with no butter mixture

showing, secure it at each end with a cocktail stick.
5 Coat the chicken in lightly beaten egg, then roll the meat in
breadcrumbs and leave the coated parcels to set in the refrigerator.

6 In a deep-frying pan, heat some sunflower or vegetable oil to

190°C (375°F). Fry the chicken for about 10 minutes, until golden.
Stuff a chicken breast

1 With one hand lightly pressing on the chicken breast to keep it

in place, use a sharp knife to cut a pocket about 4cm (11⁄2in) deep in
the side of the breast fillet. Take care not to pierce the flesh all the
way through to the other side.

2 Holding back one side of the chicken breast, press the stuffing
from your chosen recipe into the pocket. Do this firmly, but take
care not to overfill, then roll the flesh back so that it closes over
the stuffing neatly.
Bread and fry poultry or meat
escalopes

1 Place each fillet between 2 pieces of cling film, then pound them
with a rolling pin (without too much pressure on any one point)
until the fillets have increased in area and reached an even
thickness.

2 Remove the cling film and season the fillets to taste with salt,
pepper, and freshly chopped herbs. Dip the seasoned fillets into
beaten egg, coating each side evenly.
3 Turn the fillets in breadcrumbs, pressing an even coat to both
sides. Repeat the process with the remaining fillets and cook
immediately, or cover, and leave to set in the refrigerator for 10–15
minutes.

4 Heat 1cm (1⁄2in) of oil in a frying pan until hot and fry the fillets
for 4–5 minutes on each side until cooked through (test with a
sharp knife to ensure that there are no pink juices). Drain on
kitchen paper.
Marinate chicken

1 Mix the marinade ingredients in a bowl. In another bowl large

enough to hold the chicken in a single layer, coat the chicken with
the marinade. Cover the bowl and chill in the refrigerator for a
minimum of 1 hour.

2 Dry-marinating, which involves no liquid, is an extension of the

process of seasoning poultry. The mixture should be left on the
bird for at least 1 hour for it to penetrate the meat more than just
skin-deep.
Rest, carve, and portion

1 Allow the cooked chicken to rest in a warm place for 15 minutes,

covered with foil. This allows the juices to flow throughout the bird
and helps to keep the meat moist.

2 Transfer the bird to a cutting board, breast-side up. Remove the

legs by cutting the skin between the leg and the body and pushing
the blade down to where the leg bone joins the body.
3 Work the blade from side to side a little to loosen the joint, then
with a slight sawing motion, push the blade through the joint,
cutting the leg free. Transfer the leg to a warmed plate and repeat
with the other leg.

4 Remove a breast by cutting as if you are dividing the bird in half,

just to one side of the breastbone. As the blade hits the bone, cut
along the bone to remove all the meat. Repeat on the other side.
5 Place one breast cut-side down on the cutting board. Using
horizontal strokes, slice the breast into as many pieces as possible,
leaving the wing with a section of breast meat attached.

6 Carve each leg by cutting it in half through the joint at the

midway point. You shouldn’t need to cut through any bone. As you
reach the joint, work the blade into the joint to separate the pieces.
Beef
BUY Best-quality beef indicates its origin and
breed. Dark red meat will have been matured
(3–4 weeks) so should be more tender with good
flavour. Muscle meat that is marbled with fat
cooks and tastes best, but avoid excessive fat
round the edge. STORE Keep on the bottom
shelf of the refrigerator, well-wrapped on a
plate to catch any drips, joints and steaks up to
3 days, and mince and offal for no more than 2
days. Freeze joints and steaks for up to 12
months, stewing or braising meat 8 months,
mince 3 months. IN SEASON All year.
Sirloin joint
EAT The finest joint, when sold on the bone, it can include the eye
of the fillet the other side of the bone (like T-bone steak). Also sold
boned and rolled. Roast. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS English mustard,
horseradish, Yorkshire puddings, parsnips and other root
vegetables.
Fillet steak
EAT Very lean and tender, but less flavour than sirloin or rump.
Roast whole, wrap in pastry (Beef Wellington), or slice into thick
steaks and grill or pan-fry. Serve raw as carpaccio and steak
tartare. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Any of the other steak flavourings,
liver pâté, oysters (stuff with before grilling), port sauce, soy sauce,
oyster sauce, ginger, Cajun spices, garlic.

Sirloin steak
EAT Tender, well-flavoured, marbled with fat, and best well
matured. Grill or pan-fry. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Peppers, onions,
olives, savoury butters (see T-bone), green or black peppercorn
sauce, béarnaise sauce.
T-bone steak
EAT Thick slice of sirloin cut down through the bone, hence the “T”
shape, with sirloin one side and fillet the other. Grill or pan-fry.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Savoury butters – anchovy, parsley, mixed
herb and garlic, oregano, chilli.

Rump steak
EAT Best well matured to tenderize. Excellent flavour, thick and
juicy. Try marinating in red wine and herbs. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Fried onions, potato chips, mushrooms, French mustard, red wine
sauce.
Chuck or shoulder
EAT Can be sold as a joint but usually diced as stewing steak, or
minced. Stew, curry, casserole, braise. Cook ox liver or heart in the
same way. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Onions, garlic, tomatoes,
mushrooms, aubergines, carrots, celery, Indian curry spices, Thai
red curry paste, star anise, chilli, cinnamon, ginger.

Silverside
EAT Less expensive joint. Roast, pot-roast, or stew with carrots
(boiled beef and carrots). Also sold salted. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Mustard, carrots, parsnips, onion, red wine, cinnamon, olives,
tomatoes.
Brisket
EAT Inexpensive joint, full of flavour, that needs long slow cooking.
Trim excess fat before cooking. Also sold salted. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Mustard, root vegetables, mushrooms, bay leaf, bouquet
garni, rosemary, thyme, parsley.

Oxtail
EAT Cook long and slow until meltingly tender for soups or stews.
Best cooled quickly, chilled overnight, then fat removed before re-
heating. Look out for other beef offal; ox heart, liver, tripe, tongue,
and kidney. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, celery, parsnip, carrot,
swede, onions, nutmeg, cumin, allspice, mustard, red wine, brown
ale, soy sauce.
Lamb and mutton
BUY Lambs are animals up to 1 year old.
Hoggets are 1–2 year old sheep. Older animals
are known as mutton. Native lamb increases in
size through the year; imported meat, which
arrives fresh or frozen, can be any size. Lamb
should have just a thin covering of hard white
fat. Trim the excess before cooking. Young
lamb is the most tender, mutton has the best
flavour. STORE Keep wrapped, on a plate to
catch any drips, in the bottom of the fridge for
up to 3 days. Freeze joints and chops up to 12
months, diced meat 8 months, mince 3 months.
IN SEASON May–September, imported all year.
Rack
EAT Best end of neck. Sold as individual cutlets or as a rack roast.
Two tied together are a guard of honour (bones entwined) or crown
roast (back to back in a round). It should have the backbone chined
(removed) to allow chops to be carved between the ribs. Allow 2–3
chops per person (depending on size). Roast with or without a crust
(try breadcrumbs, olives, and herbs); serve pink. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Garlic, rosemary, mint, honey, olives, harissa paste,
aubergines, yogurt, baby spring vegetables.
Neck
EAT Trim sinews before cooking. Quickly roast whole, or cut in
slices and pan-fry very quickly. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Mint,
oregano, garlic, cinnamon, star anise, dried fruit, haricot beans,
spring onions, dill, lemon.

Loin chops
EAT Double loin chops (pictured) have fillet one side of the bone
and loin the other (like T-bone steak). Pan-fry, grill, braise, or roast.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Mint jelly, tomatoes, onions, garlic, oregano.
Noisettes
EAT Boned and tied loin chops are very tender. Grill, pan-fry, or
roast. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Red wine, port, redcurrants, rosemary,
lemon, garlic.

Leg
EAT Whole or half. Roast or slow-roast. Try rubbing with paprika,
dried oregano, garlic, and seasoning before cooking. Also available
as steaks to grill or pan-fry. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Garlic, oregano
and potatoes (Greek-style slow-roast), mint sauce/jelly, redcurrant
jelly, roast onions or leeks, onion sauce, celery, carrots, paprika,
flageolet beans.
Kidney
EAT Remove outer membrane, halve, snip out white core with
scissors. Sauté or grill and serve in a sauce (don’t overcook), braise
or add to hotpots. Slice liver and cook the same way. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Cream, shallots, mushrooms, lemon, brandy, sherry,
mustard, Worcestershire sauce, tomatoes, sausages, bacon.

Shank
EAT Shanks need long slow cooking, so braise or casserole. Lamb’s
hearts can be cooked the same way. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Turnips,
carrots, celery, leeks, tomato purée, redcurrant or mint jelly, white,
red, or rosé wine.
Mutton shoulder
EAT Mutton shoulder is usually simmered (known as boiled), or
diced for curries, stews, and casseroles. Lamb shoulder is roasted,
or diced or minced and used the same way. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Caper or onion sauce (boiled mutton), turnips, carrots, leeks,
yogurt, aubergines, cinnamon, apricots, prunes, raisins, curry
spices, oregano, mint, rosemary, pearl barley.
Pork
BUY Choose outdoor-reared pork for best
flavour and on welfare grounds. All pork should
be pink (pale or more deeply coloured,
depending on the cut), not grey or red. The fat
should be soft and white. The whole animal
commercially roasted – hog roast – is now
popular for parties and festivals. STORE Keep
wrapped, on a plate to catch any drips, in the
bottom of the refrigerator, for up to 3 days.
Freeze joints, chops, and steaks up to 9 months,
diced meat and belly slices 4 months, mince 3
months.
Leg joint
EAT The most tender pork joint, sold with or without bone. For
good crackling: score the rind well, rub with oil and salt, and roast
on a rack or trivet set in the roasting tin, so that the fat drains
away. Also available diced for kebabs, casseroles, and curries, and
strips for stir-fries. Other roasting joints are spare rib, shoulder,
loin, belly, and hand. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Apple sauce, sage and
onion stuffing, English mustard, sweet and sour sauce, soy sauce,
ginger, curry spices, vinegar, cabbage, caraway, dried beans.
Loin chop
EAT For best results pan-fry or grill for about 4 minutes on each
side until golden then wrap in foil and place in a preheated oven at
150°C (300°F/Gas 2) for 10 minutes. Or buy as a rack for roasting.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Apples, pears, plums, oregano, marjoram,
cider, perry or white wine, coriander seeds, wholegrain mustard,
crème fraîche.
Belly
EAT For joints, score deeply, rub with oil and salt and roast on a
trivet, or start hot to crackle the skin, then slow-roast with a little
stock or wine until very tender. Barbecue or grill slices (try
marinating first). FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Fennel or dill seed, garlic,
juniper berries, wholegrain mustard, caramelized onions, red
cabbage, raisins, cider, white wine, barbecue sauce, sweet and sour
sauce.

Fillet
EAT Split and stuff, if liked, to roast whole; slice, beat flat, and
pan-fry very quickly (about 1 minute each side); or cut into strips
and stir-fry. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Garlic, oregano, sage, chorizo,
salami, prunes, apricots, spinach, mushrooms, spring onions,
beansprouts, bamboo shoots, soy sauce, ginger.

Leg steak
EAT Can be beaten flat as escalopes. Pan-fry or grill. Cook until
just no longer pink, do not over-cook or they will dry out.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Egg and breadcrumbs (schnitzels), rosemary,
sage, garlic, citrus, ham, cheese, lychees.

Ribs
EAT Chinese ribs are the trimmed ribs, sold as a rack or
individually cut. Do not confuse with spare rib joints or chops.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Barbecue sauce, chilli, soy sauce, honey,
citrus, pineapple, Worcestershire sauce, tomatoes, Chinese five-
spice powder.

Liver
EAT Soak in milk to remove its strong taste before frying. Braise,
casserole, use in pâtés and terrines. Look out for kidneys, cheeks,
ears, and trotters to braise, too. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Sage, onions,
bacon, juniper berries, hazelnuts, watercress, brandy, mushrooms,
red wine, cider, root vegetables.
Goat, rabbit, venison, and veal
BUY All these meats are lower in fat than the
others. Rose veal is from calves reared with
their mothers, with access to grass and grain.
Avoid white veal; these calves are reared solely
on milk, a practice which is now highly frowned
upon. Either should be lean, pale-coloured, and
firm. Goat is interchangeable with lamb. Young
goat is called kid. Venison is farmed all year,
but several species are shot in the wild during
the hunting season (the dates are different in
each country of the UK, by species and for
bucks or does). Rabbit is also farmed but wild
rabbit is becoming widely available too. STORE
Keep wrapped, on a plate to catch any drips, at
the bottom of the refrigerator. Use within 2–3
days. Freeze veal, goat, or venison joints up to
12 months, steaks, chops, or diced meat up to 8
months, rabbit for up to 6 months and mince
up to 3 months. IN SEASON All year, except
wild venison (available July–April) and wild
rabbit (July–December).
GOAT
Whole kid
EAT Barbecue or slow-roast whole, or bone, stuff, and roll before
roasting. Baste well, as there is very little fat. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Red wine, olive and nut oils, chilli oil, cumin, cinnamon, garlic,
honey, mint, oregano, onions, leeks.

Leg steak
EAT Fry or grill. Braise (if older). Leg joints also available, best
slow-roasted. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cinnamon, cumin, ginger,
allspice, jerk seasoning, onions, oranges, redcurrant jelly.

Diced
EAT Cut from the leg or shoulder. Curry, braise, casserole.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Yogurt, curry powder, fenugreek, chilli,
vinegar, honey, soy sauce, spring onions, root vegetables.
RABBIT
Whole rabbit
EAT Usually jointed into 5 or 6 pieces before cooking. The saddle
and legs are the best parts. Grill, roast, braise, stew, cook in a pie.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, carrots, fennel, celery, sweetcorn,
mushrooms, tomatoes, olives, coriander leaf, parsley, rosemary,
thyme, lemon, prunes, mustard, soy sauce, cider, white wine.
VENISON
Rolled haunch
EAT Haunches from smaller deer may be roasted whole, or boned,
or sliced into steaks. Large haunches can be left on the bone but
are usually parted into individual muscles, rolled, and tied. Roast
(cook pink), braise. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Guinness, red wine, port,
redcurrant jelly, prunes, juniper berries, bay leaf, thyme, cream,
chanterelle mushrooms.

Fillet or tenderloin
EAT The boned out saddle (back) yields the fillet and the loin. They
are often confused, but the loin is thicker so takes longer to cook.
Roast or braise whole. Pan-fry, grill, or barbecue steaks. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Bacon, pears, cream, fennel, red cabbage, pomegranate,
berries, pine nuts, red wine, vermouth.
VEAL
Osso buco
EAT Thick slices of shin/shank become meltingly tender when
slow-cooked. The marrow from the bone enriches the sauce, or is
eaten with a teaspoon. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Tomatoes, white wine,
gremolata (chopped parsley, garlic, anchovy fillets, and lemon
zest), Risotto alla milanese.

Loin chop
EAT Similar to a T-bone steak and still a large chop. Grill or fry.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Tarragon or parsley butter, garlic, rosemary,
sage, white wine, cream, brandy, lemon, shallots.

Escalope
EAT This leg cut is beaten flat and either rolled round a filling
before frying or braising, or coated in egg and breadcrumbs (wiener
schnitzel) and pan-fried. The leg (and shoulder) can also be diced.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Egg and breadcrumbs, Parmesan, melting
cheeses, ham, cream, mushrooms, sorrel, spinach, gherkins,
capers, tomato sauce, potato salad.
Veal, venison, and rabbit
essentials
Use this chart to identify the best way to cook
the most popular cuts of veal, venison, and
rabbit.
Meat cooking chart
Cured and air-dried meats
BUY There are hundreds of cured and air-dried
meats, made using a wide variety of cuts and
techniques: these are the most common ones
used in cooking. Sold by weight, from
delicatessens, butchers, and supermarkets,
most are also available pre-packed. STORE
Unopened packs will keep several weeks (check
sell-by date) in the refrigerator; unpackaged or
opened packs should be eaten within a week.
Bacon
EAT Sold unsmoked (green) or smoked with a variety of cures that
enhance the flavour. Use streaky for barding birds before roasting,
wrapping other foods before grilling or frying, and diced in
casseroles. Can be cooked crisp for crumbling as a garnish. Back
bacon is the one to grill or fry with eggs and offal and for
traditional BLT sandwiches. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, game,
prunes, oysters, sausages, kidneys, liver, oily and white fish,
scallops, prawns, eggs, cheese, cauliflower, potatoes, tomatoes,
avocados, mushrooms, spinach.
 Streaky bacon

Back bacon

Gammon/ham
EAT Available smoked or unsmoked, raw as steaks, or thick
rashers to fry or grill, or as joints (with or without the bone) to boil
or roast. Heavily salted joints should be soaked in several changes
of cold water before cooking. It is also sold cooked ready to eat, hot
or cold. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pineapple, dried fruits, mustard,
cloves, honey, onion, bay leaf, parsley sauce, butter beans, carrots,
tomatoes, eggs, cheeses.
Pancetta
EAT Use in pasta sauces, casseroles, risottos, and soups, to top
pizzas, and to wrap fish and poultry before grilling or pan-frying.
Thinly sliced rolled pancetta can be served as an antipasto.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cheeses, asparagus, tomatoes, chillies, sweet
peppers, bacon, chicken, game birds, meaty white fish, onions,
garlic, eggs, cream, white beans.

Jambon de Paris
EAT Also known as jambon blanc, the common French brine-cured
boneless ham is usually sold already boiled. It is the favourite
cooked ham in France for quick meals and sandwiches. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS French and wholegrain mustards, Gruyère, chips,
buckwheat crêpes, eggs, tomatoes.

Prosciutto crudo
EAT The most widely known of the dry-cured hams. There are
many regional cures, including the famous Parma, considered to be
the best, and San Daniele from Friuli. Usually sold very thinly
sliced. Serve as an antipasto, in sandwiches, salads or added at the
last minute to cooked dishes. Use to wrap fish or meat before
grilling, pan-frying, or baking. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Parmesan,
mozzarella, gherkins, figs, melon, asparagus, tomatoes, olives.

Bresaola
EAT To make this well-known antipasto, boned beef from the hind
leg is salted and flavoured with juniper berries and herbs for a few
days, then air-dried. Valtellina in the Italian Alps is the centre of
production. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Olive oil, tomatoes, Parmesan,
gherkins, olives, celeriac remoulade, rocket, mozzarella, rustic
bread.

Jamón serrano
EAT Meaning “mountain ham” in Spanish, these salted and air-
cured hams have many regional variations. They have a sweet, rich
flavour and chewy texture. Eat in tapas or like prosciutto crudo.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Olives, gherkins, Manchego cheese, figs,
rustic bread, nutmeg, eggs, red wine.
Jamón ibérico
EAT A highly esteemed Spanish ham from black Iberian pigs, it is
salted then air-dried for 1–2 years. The best comes from pigs
grazed in the native oak forests, to produce wonderfully flavoured
meat. Best enjoyed raw. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Fino sherry (chilled),
rustic bread, asparagus, scrambled eggs, baby broad beans, melon,
figs, tomato and garlic bread (pan con tomate).
Sausages
BUY There are hundreds of sausages made in
the world, some fresh, some cooked, and some
semi-dried. Here is a selection, readily available
and popular with chefs. Fresh are usually
bought whole. Cooked and dried, or semi-dried
are available whole or sliced. Fresh and cooked
should be moist and smell pleasant. Dried may
have a strong but not unpleasant smell, and the
white powder on the exterior improves the
flavour. STORE Wrap or leave in the packaging
in the refigerator. Use fresh within a few days,
and cooked within a week. Dried and semi-
dried will keep a long time (whole sausages
don’t need refrigerating; they can be hung in a
cool, dry place). Fresh and cooked sausages can
be frozen for up to 2 months.

Pork sausage
EAT The traditional British banger available plain, well-seasoned,
with herbs, spices, or other flavourings, as either thick sausages or
thinner chipolatas. They must contain at least 42 per cent pork but
the higher the meat content, the better quality the sausage. They
can be made of other meats, such as lamb or venison. Dry-fry, grill,
barbecue, bake, casserole. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Potatoes, white
beans, onions, apples, sage, mustard, tomato ketchup, cider,
cabbage, tomatoes, mushrooms, Yorkshire pudding.
 Thick pork sausages

Pork chipolatas

Toulouse sausage
EAT Made from pork shoulder and belly, this coarse-textured
sausage is one of the classic ingredients of cassoulet. Casserole,
grill, fry. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS White beans, belly pork, duck confit,
celery, onions, tomatoes, garlic, cloves, bay leaf, flat leaf parsley.
Cumberland sausage
EAT Sold in a continuous coil, Cumberland sausage has a high
chopped pork content, which gives it a firm, dense, meaty texture.
Fry, grill, or barbecue. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Mustards, tomato
sauce, barbecue sauce, chilli sauce, shallots, rosemary, red wine,
white beans.

Beef sausage
EAT Generally leaner than pork sausages with a drier texture. They
may need extra fat when frying, so drain well before serving. Also
popular in casseroles. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Onions, root
vegetables, tomatoes, peppers, red beans, oregano, paprika, chilli,
cumin, coriander seed and leaf, brown ale, mustard,
Worcestershire sauce, barbecue sauce.
Salame di Genoa
EAT Made from pork and veal, moistened with red wine, this
garlicky, peppery air-dried sausage has a high fat content. The
casing is usually pulled off before eating. Slice thinly for appetizers,
in salads, scatter over pizzas, use to flavour sauces, rice dishes,
stews, and pastries. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Parmesan, mozzarella,
rocket, spinach, tomatoes, olives, gherkins, rustic bread.

Chorizo
EAT Semi-dried and dried Spanish chorizo are generally made
from pork and pork fat, spiced with smoked paprika to give either
spicy (picante) or mild, sweet (dulce) flavours. The semi-dried are
sliced or diced and sautéed, then often added to other dishes; the
fatter, dried ones are sliced and eaten cold. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Chicken, seafood, pork, mushrooms, peppers, aubergines,
courgettes, pasta, white beans, chickpeas, rice, chimichurri sauce
(parsley, sherry vinegar, oregano, chilli, olive oil).

Black pudding
EAT Made from pig’s blood, oatmeal or breadcrumbs, pork fat,
onions and other flavourings, black pudding is a favourite with
chefs in many dishes. It is also fried as part of a British breakfast.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, eggs, scallops, halibut, turbot, lamb,
pork, venison, rabbit, raisins, red wine, chickpeas, white beans,
lentils, potatoes.

White pudding
EAT Made of highly seasoned pork fat and oatmeal, white pudding
usually contains no meat. In Scotland it is called mealie pudding
and, when scooped out of the casing, skirlie. Slice or leave whole
and pan-fry, or deep-fry in batter. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Black
pudding, tomatoes, eggs, bacon, toasted or fried bread, white
beans, scallops, halibut, or other meaty fish.
Boudin noir
EAT The French version of black pudding contains little or no
cereal but usually has diced pork fat and sometimes meat as well
as apple, onion, chestnut, or other ingredients. Usually served
sliced and fried. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Walnuts, pears, apples,
oranges, chestnuts, cabbage, white wine, red wine, Dijon and
wholegrain mustards.

Boudin blanc
EAT Made from a mixture of pork, chicken, veal, and rabbit,
enriched with cream and eggs, they are sold ready-poached, but
are still, usually, fried or grilled. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Caramelized
onions, leeks, red wine, brandy, port, tomatoes, wild mushrooms,
spinach, black truffles, cream.
Butterfly a leg of lamb

1 Place the lamb fleshiest-side down. Locate the pelvis and hold
firmly, while using a sharp, long-bladed knife to cut around the leg
bone.

2 Cut from the pelvis to the bottom of the leg. Using short strokes
(to prevent tearing), work the knife around the bone to release it.
3 Keeping close to the bone, continue using short strokes, then cut
away the flesh from around the ball and socket joint and the
shank.

4 Cut through the sinew and tendons. All 3 bones (the pelvis,
thigh, and shank) should come away in one piece.
5 Open out the leg so that the meat lies flat on the board. With
short strokes, cut through the thick meaty pieces on either side.

6 Open out the flesh of the butterflied leg. Cut thin fillets from
thicker areas and fold them over thinner parts to ensure more even
cooking.
Bone a saddle of lamb

1 Using a sharp knife, cut away the membrane covering the fatty
side of the saddle, then turn it over. Working from the centre, cut 2
fillets from either side of the backbone and reserve to cook
alongside the saddle.

2 Loosen the outside edge of one side of the backbone using short,
slicing strokes. Working from the side edge towards the centre,
release the side of the backbone. Repeat with the other side.
3 Starting at one end, use short, slicing strokes to cut under and
around the backbone. As the bone is gradually released from the
flesh, lift it away, and cut beneath it.

4 Work from the centre outwards, to cut away the meat and fat
from the outer flaps. When the flaps are clean, square off the
edges. Turn the saddle over, score through the fat on the other
side, and cook as desired.
French trim a rack of lamb

1 Remove the blade bone by cutting under the skin along the edge
of the cut. Then, slice horizontally from the skin, tight against the
backbone, down to the ribs. Turn the cut vertically and chop the
backbone away.

2 Now trim off the elastin and any flank meat. To form the “rack”,
expose about 5cm (2in) of the bone at the thin end of the ribs.
Make a horizontal cut down to the ribs all the way across, and slice
away the meat above.
3 Remove the meat between the ribs by cutting down the length of
the exposed portion of rib, getting the knife tight against the bone,
then cut across and slice up along the edge of the next rib.

4 If serving two people, a traditional method is to form a “guard of

honour” by chopping the rack in two and intersecting the bones.
For four people, tie two racks of lamb together, skin-side in, to
form a “crown”.
Tunnel bone a leg of lamb

1 With the fleshiest side down, place the lamb on a board. At the
top of the leg, find the pelvic bone and hold it firmly while you
work around it. Use the tip of your knife close to the bone and
expose it with small cuts.

2 Once the pelvic bone is exposed, work your way inside the leg,
cutting all the way down the thighbone to the bottom. Keep
readjusting your hold, and turning the meat to ensure that your
knife stays close to the bone.
3 When you reach the base of the thighbone at the ball and socket
joint, firmly grip the thighbone. Cut through the ball and socket
joint, and pull the thighbone to work it free. Repeat the process
with the shank bone.

4 Pull the shank bone through to the outside of the leg so that you
can access it more easily. Continue working around the bone with
your knife until it comes away and the leg is entirely free of bones.
Cook steaks to perfection

For a very rare steak, cook the meat for 2–3 minutes, until just
seared on both sides. The steak should feel very soft when pressed,
and the interior should be reddish purple when the meat is sliced.

To cook a rare steak, look for the point where drops of blood come
to the surface, then turn the steak over and cook for a total of 6–8
minutes. It should feel soft and spongy, and the interior should be
red.
For a medium-rare steak, cook for a total of 8–10 minutes, but turn
the meat when drops of juice are first visible. The steak should
offer resistance when pressed, and be pink in the centre.

A well-done steak needs to be cooked for 12–14 minutes in total.

Turn the meat when drops of juice are clearly visible. The steak
should feel firm and be uniformly brown throughout.
1 Heat the grill pan (alternatively a grill or a barbecue) over a high
heat. Brush both sides of the steaks with oil, and season with salt
and freshly ground black pepper.

2 When the pan is very hot, place the steaks diagonally across the
ridges. Cook for half the desired time, (turning 45 degrees to create
the diamond pattern) then turn the steaks over. Remove them and
allow to rest.
Carve roast beef

1 Place the roast on a cutting board with the ends of the ribs facing
up. Holding the meat steady with a carving fork, use a sawing
action to cut downwards against the sides of the bones.

2 Remove the bones and position the meat fat-side up on the

board. With a sawing action, cut downwards, across the grain of
the meat, into slices of your desired thickness. Reserve the pan
juices to make a gravy.
Cabbages
BUY There are winter, spring, summer, and
autumn varieties. Look for solid heads with a
clean, fresh smell, and no yellowing leaves. The
cut end should be moist not dry. STORE Keep
whole heads for several weeks in plastic bags in
the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator. Once
cut, they deteriorate and lose nutrients. Shred,
blanch, and freeze for up to 12 months.
Round green cabbage
EAT Steam or boil, but best braised or finely shredded and stir-
fried. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Carrots, onions, celery, soy sauce,
ginger, garlic, potatoes. IN SEASON August–May (best December–
March)

Savoy cabbage
EAT The blanched outer leaves are excellent stuffed and braised.
Steam, boil, braise, stir-fry. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, celery,
butter, onions, garlic, tomatoes, walnuts, hazelnuts. IN SEASON
September–February (best December–February)

Kohlrabi
EAT Available green (white), or purple. Peel and cook like turnips in
soups and stews, steam, or boil. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Parsley
sauce, star anise, ginger, garlic, tomatoes, lamb, beef, game birds.
IN SEASON July–November

White cabbage
EAT Stir-fry, sauté, braise, shred raw for salads. Also available as
coleslaw and fermented as sauerkraut. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Mayonnaise, wine vinegar, mustard, caraway seeds, smoked
sausages, pork, ham, carrots, onions, nuts, apples, celery. IN
SEASON November–June (best December–February)
Red cabbage
EAT Braise with an acid like vinegar, wine, or lemon juice to give a
vibrant colour. Pickle and shred raw for winter salads. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Vinegars, red wine, brown sugars, apples, pears, raisins,
onions, celery, fennel seeds, bacon, ham, pork, liver. IN SEASON
November–May (best December–February)

Brussels sprouts
EAT Steam or lightly boil whole, shred, and stir-fry, or use in
salads. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Melted butter, chestnuts, walnuts,
hazelnuts, toasted pine nuts, sausages, crispy bacon. IN SEASON
November–March
Flowering greens
BUY Choose tight heads with a uniform colour.
Avoid any that are discoloured, damaged, or
have yellowing leaves. Avoid purple sprouting
broccoli with tiny yellow flowers or woody
stems. STORE Best eaten fresh, but can be
stored loosely wrapped in the vegetable drawer
of the fridge for 3–4 days. Blanch and freeze
florets or broccoli stems for up to 12 months.
Common cauliflower
EAT Separate into tiny florets to eat raw for salads and crudités, or
blitz into “rice”. Boil or steam whole or in florets, roast, add to soup,
cook, then bake in a sauce, or deep-fry in batter. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Brown butter, Gruyère, blue or Cheddar cheese
(crumbled or in sauce), garlic, olive oil, parsley, lemon. IN SEASON
All year (best in autumn)

Purple cauliflower
EAT Also look out for orange heads. Cut in florets, best steamed to
keep its colour. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Béchamel sauce, tomatoes,
Parmesan (or other cheeses), bacon. IN SEASON All year (best in
autumn)

Chinese broccoli
EAT Also called gai lan, this sometimes has small white flowers.
Stir-fry or braise. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Oyster sauce, soy sauce,
ginger, garlic, cashew nuts. IN SEASON Autumn and spring

Calabrese
EAT Blanch tiny florets, or add raw, to salads. For larger florets,
boil, steam, or cook, then bake in a sauce. Pare stalks and cut in
batonettes to cook and eat, too. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon,
anchovies, pesto, chillies, cheese, béchamel sauce, pine nuts,
lemon, garlic, olive oil. IN SEASON July–November, imported all
year

Romanesco
EAT Tastes like mild cauliflower. Cook in the same way. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Olive oil and toasted flaked almonds (to dress), Italian
hard cheeses, cherry tomatoes, olives, cream. IN SEASON
September–November

Purple sprouting broccoli

EAT White also available. Steam, lightly boil, stir-fry. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Tomatoes, leeks, chillies, butter, olive oil, garlic,
Parmesan cheese, spring onions, citrus, hollandaise sauce. IN
SEASON January–April, imported in winter
Leafy greens
BUY All have a sweetish flavour with varying
hints of bitterness. Choose firm stalks with
fresh green leaves. STORE Eat fresh or store,
wrapped in moist paper in a plastic bag in the
vegetable drawer of the refrigerator, for 2–3
days. Shred large leaves, separate stalks from
leaves of chard, blanch, and freeze up to 6
months.
White Swiss chard
EAT Add young leaves to salads. Steam, braise or stir-fry larger
leaves and stalks separately. The leaves can also be used as
wrappers; serve the stalks like asparagus. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Ham, garlic, onion, chillies, olive oil, butter, hollandaise sauce
(stalks). IN SEASON July–November

Rainbow chard
EAT Use baby leaves in salads. Stir-fry, steam, or boil larger ones
like spinach. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Nutmeg, spring onions, toasted
almonds and pine nuts, butter, olive oil. IN SEASON July–
November

Spinach
EAT Throw baby leaves in salads or scatter over pizzas. Spinach
shrinks a great deal when cooked. Steam or wilt with no extra
water, or in hot butter, stir-fry. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, fish,
anchovies, eggs, cheeses, yogurt, cream, butter, olive oil, garlic,
onions, avocados, mushrooms, lemon, nutmeg, curry spices. IN
SEASON All year
Cavolo nero
EAT Widely used in Tuscan cooking. Good in braises, soups and
casseroles. Lightly steam or sauté. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Garlic,
onions, chillies, peppers, white beans, spicy sausages, pancetta,
potatoes, tomatoes, olive oil. IN SEASON September–March
Kale
EAT Red kale is softer than green, curly kale. Blanch young leaves
to add to winter salads. Boil, steam, braise, stir-fry, add to soups
and stews. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, ham, venison, sausages,
oily fish, clams, eggs, citrus, tomatoes. IN SEASON September–
March

Spring greens
EAT Boil, steam, braise, stir-fry, add to soups and stews, finely
shred and deep-fry for crispy “seaweed”. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Bacon, ham, lemon, onions, potatoes, salt pork, garlic, Chinese
five-spice powder. IN SEASON February–April
Mustard greens
EAT Baby leaves add a distinctive, peppery taste to salads. Steam,
stir-fry, stew, braise. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Fish, seafood, ham, pork,
chicken, butter, garlic, soy sauce, rice vinegar, ginger, chillies. IN
SEASON September–March
Pak choi (bok choy)
EAT Steam or braise baby ones whole. Chop larger ones and stir-
fry or add to soup. Blanch whole leaves and use as wrappers.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Prawns, pork, chicken, spring onions, water
chestnuts, mangetout, cashew nuts, soy sauce, oyster sauce,
coriander leaves. IN SEASON September–March, imported all year
Chinese spinach
EAT Similar to European spinach, eat raw when young, steam or
stir-fry older leaves. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Toasted sesame seeds,
star anise, mushrooms, eggs, rice, prawns, coriander leaf, chillies,
ginger, garlic. IN SEASON June–October

Chinese leaves (napa cabbage)

EAT Shred raw for salads or cut in larger chunks and stir-fry,
braise or ferment as kimchi, a spicy Korean pickle. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Spring onions, ginger, sambal oelek, garlic, sesame
seeds, rice vinegar. IN SEASON September–December, imported all
year
Root vegetables
BUY All roots should be dry and fresh-smelling.
Avoid any that are wet (usually over-chilled). If
bought with leaves intact, they should be fresh,
not wilted or discoloured. Twist them off before
storing or the roots go limp. STORE If
unwashed, no need to refrigerate (except
salsify, scorzonera, and water chestnut). Store
in a cool, dark place for up to a week if small, 2–
3 weeks if large. If washed (and salsify,
scorzonera and water chestnut), store in a
paper bag in the vegetable drawer in the
refrigerator for up to 1 week.
Carrots
EAT Peel maincrop, but only wash and scrub, or scrape, if
necessary, young ones. Cut in batonettes for crudités, grate or
shave in ribbons for salads. Steam, boil, roast, braise, sauté or stir-
fry, add to soups, stews, and casseroles. Also good for cakes and
muffins. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beef, citrus, ginger, celery, chervil,
fennel, thyme, parsley, coriander leaf, watercress, peas, pine nuts,
cumin, cinnamon, mixed spice, other roots, particularly beetroot,
honey. IN SEASON Early young carrots, March–September;
maincrop, September–February, imported all year
Maincrop carrot

Yellow carrot
Bunched carrots

Chantenay

Purple carrot
 Finger carrot

Swede
EAT Cut in batonettes for crudités or grate in salads. Boil, steam,
bake, roast, deep-fry as chips. Add to soups, stews, and casseroles.
Good alternative mash (on own or with potato) for topping minced
meat and fish pies. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, liver, onions,
carrots, cream, butter, lemon, black pepper, nutmeg, thyme. IN
SEASON October–March, imported all year

Purple swede
 Yellow swede

Turnip
EAT Scrub and cook whole if baby, or peel and cut in pieces if
larger. Cut in batonettes for crudités and grate in salads. Boil,
steam, roast, sauté, or stir-fry, add to soups, stews and casseroles.
Good mashed with potatoes. Leaves can be cooked like other
greens. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Lamb, bacon, duck, goose, game,
cheeses, apples, mushrooms, potatoes, sherry. IN SEASON Winter
crop, all year; baby turnips, June–July
 White turnip

Purple turnip

Parsnip
EAT Peel thinly, remove any woody core from large ones. Cut in
batonettes for crudités, steam, or boil, mash, deep-fry as chips or
crisps, griddle slices, roast, bake, braise or sauté. Add to soups,
stews, and casseroles. Good in cakes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Butter,
curry powder, nutmeg, garlic, parsley, thyme, tarragon, potatoes,
beef, walnuts. IN SEASON October–March, imported all year

Water chestnut
EAT Blanch for 5 minutes then peel and slice raw in savoury and
fruit salads and for crudités, stir-fry or steam in oriental dishes
and, also, add to beef stews and casseroles for added crunch. Also
available canned. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Prawns, beef, chicken, pork,
pak choi, oyster sauce, soy sauce, ginger, garlic, sesame oil. IN
SEASON Imported all year

Salsify
EAT Known as oyster plant because of its flavour. Peel and drop in
acidulated water to prevent discolouration. Grate and use in
salads. Boil (add a tablespoon of flour to the water to retain the
white colour), steam, bake, roast, sauté, deep-fry, or add to soups,
stews, and casseroles. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Italian hard cheeses,
béchamel sauce, onions, shallots, olive oil, lemon, nutmeg, bacon.
IN SEASON November–February, also imported

Scorzonera
EAT Known as black salsify, but is a different species. Softer and
more delicate than salsify. It becomes sticky when cut, so either
wear gloves or boil whole then strip off the skin (good sautéed in
butter) or use as salsify. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS White wine, hard
cheeses, cream, breadcrumbs, parsley, Parma ham. IN SEASON
November–March (also imported)
Lotus root
EAT Peel, remove the fibrous sections between the links then slice
or cut in chunks. Blanch, then use in salads, or boil, steam, braise,
add to soups, stews, and stir-fries. Blanched slices and seeds are
also candied and can be pickled. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Citrus,
garlic, onion, coriander leaves, chervil, star anise. IN SEASON
Imported all year

Celeriac
EAT Cut in batonettes for crudités, or shred for salads and
rémoulade. Put in acidulated water when preparing, to prevent
discolouration. Steam, boil, braise, mash (good with potatoes),
roast, deep-fry, or bake. Add to soups, stews, and casseroles.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, beef, oily fish, cheeses, garlic,
potatoes, parsley, dill, olive oil, mustard, tomatoes. IN SEASON
September–March
Parsley root
EAT Grate in salads, or slice for crudités. Bake, roast, braise, boil,
steam, pan-fry or stir-fry, add to soups, stews, and root vegetable
mixtures. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, fish, game, eggs,
mushrooms, carrots, potatoes, turnips. IN SEASON August–April,
some imported
Beetroot
EAT Grate raw for salads (good with grated carrot). Don’t peel
before cooking: bake, roast, boil, or steam whole, then peel. Also
good pickled. Leaves can be cooked separately, like red chard.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, smoked oily fish, goat’s cheese,
oranges, watercress, baby red chard, rocket, soured cream,
nutmeg, horseradish, dill, caraway. IN SEASON June–February,
imported all year
Yellow beetroot
Red beetroot
 Striped beetroot

Radish
EAT Add to salads and salsas. Red and white ones are good for
crudités. Grate daikon as a garnish for sashimi. All can be added to
soups or stews like turnip. Daikon and winter radish (not shown)
can be pickled. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Smoked fish, cheeses,
potatoes, spring onions, chives, parsley, citrus, vinegar, chilli, star
anise (in soup and stews). IN SEASON April–December, imported
all year

Cherry radish
French breakfast

Daikon
Tubers
BUY All tubers should feel heavy for their size,
and be firm with no broken skin or evidence of
soft spots. Avoid any potatoes with green
patches or signs of sprouting. They should all
smell earthy and fresh. Choose Jerusalem
artichokes with the fewest little knobs as they
are easier to clean (and peel, if required).
STORE Keep in a paper bag or closed basket in a
cool (but not cold) dark place. Best used within
a week.
King Edward potatoes
EAT A famous British floury potato. Mash, bake, use for gnocchi or
in soup, roast, purée or chip. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Butter, milk,
chives, rosemary, celeriac, leeks, onions, spring onions, garlic, olive
oil, lemon, hard cheeses. IN SEASON September–October, available
stored all year

Maris Piper potatoes

EAT A popular British fairly floury potato. Best for chips but also a
good all-rounder. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Butter, chives, parsley,
curry spices, mayonnaise, tomato ketchup, malt vinegar, sea salt.
IN SEASON September–October, available stored all year

Nicola potatoes
EAT A German variety with good, waxy flesh, and a buttery
flavour. Good sliced and baked in gratins, and to top meat and fish
dishes. Also good for salads. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cream, crème
fraîche, yogurt, garlic, nutmeg, Gruyère, Cheddar and blue cheeses,
French dressing, mayonnaise, shallots, ham, bacon, pickled, salted
and smoked fish. IN SEASON July–October, available stored all
year

Desirée potatoes
EAT A Dutch all-purpose variety. Bake, roast, mash, boil, add to
soups and stews, deep-fry, or sauté. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cumin,
Cajun spices, nutmeg, and seeds (to coat wedges), eggs, onions,
mushrooms, butter, olive and nut oils. IN SEASON September–
October, available stored all year
Anya potatoes
EAT Long, waxy speciality salad potato, a cross between Pink Fir
Apple and Desirée. Best boiled or steamed in the skin, but can be
sautéed or roasted whole. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Melted butter,
pesto, parsley, thyme, mint, chives, olive oil, mustard, wine
vinegar, shallots, grated citrus zest. IN SEASON May–October,
imported most of the year

Charlotte potatoes
EAT A high-quality French waxy speciality salad potato. Often
available ready-washed. Best boiled or steamed in the skin. Good
cold. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Melted butter, mint, chives, parsley,
mayonnaise, yogurt, olive oil, anchovies, citrus. IN SEASON May–
October, imported most of the year
Jersey Royal potatoes
EAT Famous heritage variety from the Channel Islands, eagerly
awaited in the UK every spring for their distinctive rich, earthy
flavour. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Melted butter, mint, parsley, chives,
thyme, spring onions. IN SEASON April–June

Sweet potatoes
EAT Cook in their skins or peel first. Boil, steam, mash, bake, roast,
sauté, deep-fry as chips or tempura. Also used in cakes, pastries
and candied as sweetmeats. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Apples, brown
sugars, molasses, ginger, maple syrup, honey, citrus, chilli,
nutmeg, Cajun spices, thyme. IN SEASON Imported all year
Taro
EAT Steam, boil, sauté, deep-fry, or cook, then purée as a base for
soufflés or croquettes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Sweet potatoes, chilli,
star anise, cinnamon, cardamom, toasted sesame oil. IN SEASON
Imported all year

Yam
EAT Never eat raw. Peel before use (wear gloves as some types
irritate the skin). Boil, steam, bake, roast, sauté or deep-fry as
chips, add to meat stews. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Eggs, cheese,
cream, curry powder, coconut, lime. IN SEASON Imported all year
Cassava
EAT Never eat raw. Peel then bake, boil, roast, use in stews, stir-
fries or deep fry as crisps. Cassava flour is a thickening agent and
made into tapioca. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Butter, garlic, citrus,
coriander seeds and leaves, chilli. IN SEASON Imported all year

Jicama
EAT Can be difficult to digest, so introduce slowly to the diet.
Grate, dice, or julienne to add to savoury and fruit salads (try the
Mexican way of sprinkling with lime juice and chilli powder),
steam, boil, bake, stir-fry, sauté, braise, or pickle. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Chilli, lime, avocado, mango, onions, tomatoes,
coriander leaves. IN SEASON Imported all year (best autumn to
spring)
Jerusalem artichoke
EAT Can be difficult for some to digest. Slice raw as crudités, grate
or chop in salads (toss in lemon juice to prevent discolouration).
Boil, steam, purée, use for gratins, roast, stir-fry, sauté, or deep-fry
for crisps or chips. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Béchamel or hollandaise
sauce, butter, cream, ginger, nutmeg, lovage, parsley, lemon,
spring onions, crispy bacon, pheasant and other game. IN SEASON
October–March (best November–February)
Vegetable essentials
Choosing vegetables at their peak, storing
them well, and cooking them carefully will
maximize their flavour and bring out the best
in them.
Buy
Vegetables are the foundation of a healthy diet, and they are at
their freshest, tastiest, and most nutritious when they are in
season and locally grown by sustainable methods. In season,
vegetables reach their flavour peak, and this is also when they are
most abundant and most economical. Local farmers are likely to
grow the most flavourful varieties, including heritage types that
have been selected by generations of farmers and gardeners for
their superior qualities. Local growers are often organic or
sustainable, too, choosing farming methods that protect the
environment and preserve the soil’s natural fertility without the
use of chemicals.
Good colour Buy vegetables that have bright, vibrant colours with
no yellowing – especially in cauliflowers and leafy greens. There
should be no bruising, discolouration, blemishes, soft spots, cuts,
or pits, and no suggestion of mould growth.
Firmness The vegetable should feel firm and heavy in the hand;
lighter vegetables may be drying out.
Tight skin Loose skin also indicates that the vegetable is drying
out, so look for taut, firm skin.
Fresh ends To ensure freshness and the quality it implies, check
the cut ends of vegetables that have been harvested from a root or
mother plant. The cut should look fresh and moist, not dried out,
and leaves should be glossy and mid-ribs turgid.
Smell The vegetable should have a clean, fresh smell.
Store
Different vegetables store for varying lengths of time, depending on
their type. See individual ingredients for storage times.
Delicate leafy vegetables store best wrapped loosely in moist
kitchen paper inside a closed plastic bag or refrigerator-storage
container.
Root vegetables such as carrots and parsnips keep well in an open,
plastic bag in the salad drawer of the fridge.
Vegetables such as bell peppers and cabbage store well in paper
bags rolled shut and placed in the salad drawer.
Potatoes store best at room temperature in the dark.
Onions are best stored in a basket at room temperature.
Tomatoes should be kept at room temperature and will continue
to ripen when placed on a windowsill.
Hard vegetables such as carrots, beans, broccoli, peas, and
sweetcorn, can all be frozen. Freeze cut and prepared vegetables
on the day you buy them to retain all their flavours, textures, and
nutrients.
Vegetable cooking chart
Stems, shoots, and flowers
BUY Stems should be firm and plump;
asparagus buds and artichoke leaves should be
tight shut. Cut ends should look fresh with no
dry spots. Avoid any that are wilting, damaged,
or discoloured. STORE All are best eaten fresh
but can be stored in a plastic or paper bag in
the vegetable box in the refrigerator; asparagus,
artichokes, and cardoons up to 3 days; celery
and fennel up to 2 weeks. Blanch and freeze
asparagus and artichokes up to 12 months;
celery and cardoons 9 months; fennel 6
months.
Green asparagus
EAT British is considered amongst the finest in the world. Steam,
boil, griddle, roast. Eat hot or cold. Also available frozen and
canned. Look out for sprue, the thinning-out of the early crops,
which is slim and tender and often cheaper. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Olive oil, butter, coarse sea salt, Parmesan or Grana Padano
shavings, balsamic glaze or vinegar, hollandaise sauce, Mornay
sauce, bacon, anchovies, salmon, pesto, vinaigrette, citrus, eggs. IN
SEASON April–June, imported all year
Green asparagus
 Asparagus sprue

White asparagus
EAT Deprived of light as they emerge from the ground, so blanched
white. Sweeter and creamier in texture than green. Best steamed or
boiled and served cold. Not so popular in the UK. Also available
bottled and canned. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Vinaigrette, mayonnaise,
garlic, quail’s eggs, smoked salmon, hollandaise sauce. IN SEASON
May–September

Globe artichoke
EAT Serve fresh, cooked, or preserved hearts as an antipasto or in
salads, pizza toppings, risottos, or pasta dishes. Steam or boil
heads and serve hot or cold with melted butter, a sauce, or
dressing, or cook, then remove the centres, stuff with a savoury
stuffing or salsa, then bake or serve cold. Eat baby artichokes
whole, halved, or quartered, raw, grilled, roasted, deep-fried, or
steamed. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Vinaigrette, butter, hollandaise
sauce, herbs, cured and dried meats, anchovies, shellfish,
tomatoes, chillies, mushrooms, cheeses, cream, garlic, lemon,
white truffles. IN SEASON June–October
Globe artichoke
 Baby artichoke

Celery
EAT Serve batonettes for crudités. Stuff pieces with soft cheese or
pastes. Dice in sandwiches, salads, stuffings, soups, stews, and
casseroles. Steam, braise, or bake hearts. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Béchamel or hollandaise sauces, cheeses, onions, cabbage, lemon,
walnuts, apples, pears. IN SEASON September–February, imported
all year
Hearts of palm
EAT Available fresh or canned. Cut in thin slices for salads and
platters. Steam, stir-fry, grill, sauté, or stew. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Cured and dried meats, shellfish, lime, vinaigrette, tomatoes, baby
salad leaves, soy sauce, wasabi, sesame oil, ginger, avocados,
tropical fruits. IN SEASON Imported all year

Florence fennel
EAT Slice or shred for salads. Cut in batonettes for crudités. Boil,
steam, roast, braise, or griddle in quarters or thick slices. Cook
baby fennel whole. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cheeses, fish and seafood,
veal, chicken, dried and cured meats, citrus, preserved lemon
(roasted with), Pernod, Puy lentils, herbs, mayonnaise. IN SEASON
July–October, imported most of the year

Cardoons
EAT Use a potato peeler to pare stalks to remove strings (do the
same for outer celery stalks). Cut in batonettes for crudités (good
with bagna cauda). Boil, steam, braise, stew, sauté, or use for soup.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Veal, anchovies, olive oil, hard cheeses,
butter, cream, lemon, almonds. IN SEASON June–September
Peas, beans, and other pods
BUY Those with edible pods should be bright
green and snap easily. Those for shelling should
be plump but not over-full. Swollen beans and
peas will be tough and mealy textured. Choose
corn cobs with moist, bright green husks and
creamy yellow kernels rather than deep gold, or
the sugar will already have turned to starch.
STORE Best eaten fresh but can be kept for 1–2
days in a plastic bag in the vegetable drawer in
the refrigerator. Blanch, then freeze for up to 12
months.

Garden peas
EAT Raw in salads or cooked as a vegetable. Boil or steam until just
tender, purée, or use for soup. Also available frozen (and canned
but they lose their colour and texture). Look for pea shoots, the
tender tops of the plants, to add to salads, too. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Bacon, ham, fish, duck, baby onions, lettuce, mint,
thyme, chervil, mushrooms. IN SEASON June–October
Mangetout
EAT Steam or use these sweet, crisp, flat pods as crudités, in salads
or stir-fries. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Almonds, chicken, mushrooms,
soy sauce, garlic, ginger, sherry, rice wine, Chinese five-spice
powder. IN SEASON June–October, imported all year

Sugar snap peas

EAT Crunchy and sweet, use whole, or thickly slice for crudités
and warm salads, or stir-fry or steam. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Toasted sesame seeds, chillies, sesame oil, ginger, soy sauce, soft
cheeses, oyster mushrooms, radishes, mint. IN SEASON June–
October, imported all year

Baby corn
EAT Whole or halve as crudités, stir-fry, boil, steam, braise, slice
and add to soups, stews, and casseroles. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Baby
vegetables, sesame oil, soy sauce, chicken, fish, duck, gammon,
garlic, butter, olive oil. IN SEASON August–September, imported
all year
Sweetcorn
EAT Roast whole in the husk, or shuck first, then boil, roast, grill or
barbecue. Boil, braise, bake, or sauté kernels, or add to soups and
stews. Also available as kernels, frozen, or in cans. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Bacon, potatoes, butter, cheese, cream, chillies, citrus.
IN SEASON August–September, imported all year

Runner beans
EAT String and thinly slice diagonally. Boil, steam, use for pickles
and chutneys. Available frozen. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon,
mushrooms, onions, tomatoes, red wine vinegar, honey, olive oil,
cashew nuts. IN SEASON July–October, imported most of the year
Helda beans
EAT No need to string. Top and tail, and cut in chunks or diagonal
slices. Boil, steam, stir-fry. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Citrus, melted
butter, walnuts, nut oils, toasted sesame seeds, tomatoes. IN
SEASON June–October, imported all year

Broad beans
EAT Shell, then boil or steam, purée, or make into soup. Pop beans
out of their skins before eating, if preferred. Available frozen and
canned. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, ham, fish, lamb, chicken,
game, spinach, onions, cream, béchamel sauce. IN SEASON May–
August

French beans
EAT Top and tail. Cook whole or cut in short lengths. Blanch for
salads, steam, or boil. Available frozen and canned. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Eggs, shallots, red wine vinegar, olive oil, tomatoes,
garlic, olives, oily fish, new potatoes. IN SEASON June–October,
imported all year
Edamame beans
EAT Raw (if young), steam or boil, or squeeze out the fresh soya
beans. Also available frozen, shelled, or whole. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Coarse sea salt, harissa paste, lamb, chicken, fish, soy
sauce, ginger, garlic, chillies. IN SEASON June–September

Yellow wax beans

EAT Rich buttery flavour. Top and tail, then steam or boil.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Tomatoes, garlic, onions, olive oil, chorizo,
mushrooms. IN SEASON June–November
Okra
EAT Can eat raw but usually steam, stew, or bake in a sauce, coat
in batter or cornmeal, and deep-fry or stir-fry. They have a
mucilaginous quality when cooked. Can be pickled. Available
frozen and canned. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Butter, garlic, chillies,
curry spices, coconut, green peppers, tomatoes. IN SEASON
December–March, imported all year
Squashes, cucumbers, and chayote
BUY All these members of the gourd family
should be firm, feel heavy for their size, and
have unblemished skins. Choose small summer
squashes – like courgettes – for best texture and
flavour. The skin of winter squashes should be
hard (if a thumb nail can pierce it, it won’t be
sweet and ripe). STORE Keep winter squashes
in a cool dark place for up to 3 months. Keep
the rest in the vegetable drawer of the
refrigerator. Remove any plastic film on
cucumbers first, store for up to 1 week; summer
squashes up to 5 days. Wrap chayote tightly in
a paper bag first, to keep for several weeks.
Marrow
EAT An overgrown courgette, stuff and bake whole or in slices,
roast in chunks, or steam. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Sausage, mince or
rice and herbs for stuffing, tomatoes, melted butter, Cheddar and
Parmesan cheeses, béchamel sauce, thyme, oregano, sage, parsley.
IN SEASON August–October

Pumpkin
EAT Peel large ones before cooking. Steam or boil then purée for
soups and pumpkin pie, sauté, roast or bake (small halves, seeds
removed). Also available canned. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Blue and
Cheddar cheeses, butter, walnuts, sage, rosemary, thyme, ginger,
nutmeg, cinnamon, cumin, tomatoes. IN SEASON September–
November

Spaghetti marrow
EAT Best pricked, boiled whole then split, the fibres scooped out
and dressed like spaghetti. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Fresh tomato
sauce, bolognese sauce, olive oil, melted butter, Parmesan cheese,
anchovies, mushrooms. IN SEASON August–October

Red onion squash

EAT Flavour reminiscent of chestnuts. Roast, add to soups or sweet
dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Red onions, chestnuts, garlic, olive oil,
butter, nigella seeds, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves. IN SEASON
September–December

Bottle gourd
EAT Peel and slice, or cut in chunks. This winter squash holds its
shape well in curries and stir-fries. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Coconut
milk, tamarind, mustard seeds, curry leaves, cumin, coriander seed
and leaf, ginger, chilli, star anise, tomatoes, onions, garlic, lentils.
IN SEASON Imported all year
Butternut
EAT Interchangeable with acorn. Halve and stuff or peel, cut in
chunks and roast, steam, boil, or purée. Also good on pizzas, in
pasta, risotto, and orzotto. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Goat’s cheese,
Cheddar, Gruyère, and blue cheeses, garlic, ginger, maple syrup,
honey, apples, pears, sage, thyme, rosemary, beetroot. IN SEASON
September–December, imported all year

Acorn
EAT Alternative to butternut. Halve and stuff, then bake, or peel,
cut in chunks and roast, steam, boil, or purée. Try baking, filled
with a herby cheese custard. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Soft white
cheeses, Parmesan cheese, eggs, garlic, maple syrup, honey,
parsley, sage, thyme, apples, pears, quinces. IN SEASON
September–December

Bitter melon
EAT Scoop out the seeds, blanch, then salt, and leave 30 minutes
before rinsing and cooking to remove bitterness. Braise, steam or
stir-fry. Also available canned. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pork, fish and
shellfish, soy sauce, ginger, garlic, spring onions, black bean sauce,
oyster sauce. IN SEASON Imported all year

Turk’s turban
EAT Large cavity so good eaten whole. Cut slice off top and scoop
out seeds. Oil outside, wrap in foil, roast, then scoop out some
flesh, mix with stuffing, stuff back in and bake. Also roast in
wedges. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Butter, olive oil, Cheddar and goat’s
cheeses, breadcrumbs, rice, onions, sage, thyme, cream, bacon,
ham. IN SEASON September–December

Crown prince
EAT Roast, then purée for soups and cakes, or as a ravioli filling.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Butter, eggs, nutmeg, mixed spice, cinnamon,
muscovado sugar, sage, onions, ricotta cheese. IN SEASON
September–December

Courgettes
EAT Available as green and yellow. Flowers can be stuffed, or
dipped in batter and fried. Grate or shave in ribbons for salads,
cook baby ones whole, halve and stuff, then bake, or slice or cut in
batonettes and steam, boil, braise, dip in batter and deep-fry, stir-
fry, griddle or sauté. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Olive oil, coarse sea salt,
sweet peppers, aubergines, onions, garlic, tomatoes, curry spices,
basil, parsley. IN SEASON May–October (flowers May–September),
imported all year

Green courgette

Yellow courgette

Patty pan
EAT Bake whole (with or without stuffing), slice and steam, sauté
or stir-fry. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Melted butter, olive oil, garlic,
cumin, coriander, thyme, basil, parsley, bacon, breadcrumbs,
chickpeas, hard cheeses. IN SEASON July–September

Crookneck
EAT Has sweeter flesh than ordinary courgettes. Cook as for
courgettes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Olive oil, butter, cream, Cheddar,
Gruyère, and Parmesan cheeses, bacon, white beans, tomatoes. IN
SEASON July–September

Round squash
EAT Steam or stir-fry small ones whole, or halve and stuff larger
ones before baking. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS As for courgettes, or try
prawns or crab and rice stuffing with dill, parsley and lemon zest.
IN SEASON May–October
Ridge cucumbers
EAT Peel, cut in batonettes for crudités, or slice or dice for salads.
Steam, braise, stir-fry, or halve and stuff then bake. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Malt, balsamic or red wine vinegar, black pepper, fish,
shellfish, cheese sauce, soy sauce, garlic, ginger, cream cheese,
root vegetables, spring onions. IN SEASON June–October (best
August–September)

Gherkins (cornichons)
EAT From the same species as cucumbers, usually sold ready-
pickled, often flavoured with dill. Key ingredient in tartare sauce.
Serve with pâtés, terrines and fish; as a nibble with drinks, and as a
garnish. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Capers and caperberries,
mayonnaise, parsley, thyme, tarragon, chervil, chicken, poultry
and pig’s livers, pork, salt beef, most fish.
Common greenhouse cucumber
EAT Pare off evenly spaced strips of skin for an attractive finish
when slicing. Best for salads, sandwiches and salsas but good
grated for chilled soup. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Vinegars, yogurt, dill,
purslane, garlic, anchovies, cream cheese, feta cheese, fennel,
mint, mayonnaise, tomatoes, chillies, avocados, tropical fruits. IN
SEASON June–October, imported all year

Burpless slicing cucumber

EAT Reputed not to cause digestive problems, so no need to peel.
Good sliced, diced or grated in salads, dips and sandwiches.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Yogurt, mint, coriander leaf and seeds,
toasted cumin seeds, garlic, spring onions, watercress,
mayonnaise. IN SEASON July–October
Pickling cucumber
EAT Small, solid and crisp to keep their texture when pickled. Also
good eaten raw, lightly dressed with French dressing or just
balsamic vinegar. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Rock salt, malt, white wine,
and cider vinegars, coriander seeds, yellow mustard seeds, dried
chillies, allspice, ginger, black peppercorns, bay leaf, dill, white
onions. IN SEASON July–October

Chayote
EAT The skin is edible on small, tender chayote, peel if larger.
Steam, sauté, stir-fry, or bake (with or without stuffing), or grate
for salads and salsas. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Fish, shellfish, rice,
garlic, onion, soft and hard cheeses, chillies. IN SEASON Imported
all year
Onions, shallots, leeks, and garlic
BUY Choose firm onions and shallots with the
outer papery skin intact and dry. Avoid if wet,
stained, or smelling unpleasant. Leeks and
spring onions should be crisp with white bases
and bright green tops. Leeks should give a little
when squeezed; if fat and hard, they will be
tough. STORE Onions and shallots keep best in
a vegetable rack or string bag in a cool dark
place. Keep leeks and spring or salad onions in
a sealed plastic bag in the vegetable drawer in
the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Brown onions
EAT The workhorse of the kitchen. Use raw, fry, braise, stew, boil
or roast. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, liver, sausages, steak, lamb,
pork, game, fish, curry spices, fresh herbs, tomatoes, all vegetables,
cheeses. IN SEASON June-March (best June–September), imported
all year

White onions
EAT Sweet mild flavour. Good for dishes where onions not fried
first, like white stews, risottos, and sauces. Ideal for batter-dipped
fried onion rings, too. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Tempura batter, beer
batter, veal, chicken, lamb, sage, parsley, thyme, risotto rice, white
beans, white wine, spinach, tomatoes. IN SEASON June–March
(best June –September), imported all year

Red onions
EAT Sweet mild flavour. Use in salads and salsas, roast, or
caramelize for marmalade. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Fresh and sun-
dried tomatoes, peppers, aubergines, squashes, avocados, bacon,
lentils, chickpeas, cheeses, oily fish, basil, thyme, bay leaf. IN
SEASON June–March (best June–September), imported all year

Banana shallot
EAT Grate or finely chop to add a sweet, subtle flavour to stews,
casseroles, braises and soups, or halve and roast. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Butter, balsamic vinegar, white balsamic condiment, red
wine, white wine, cream, wild mushrooms, sorrel, thyme, parsley,
fish. mussels and other seafood, chicken. IN SEASON September–
March
White salad onions
EAT Mild and sweet, slice or chop for salads, trim and use whole,
cooked, or pickled. Use the green tops for garnish. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Cream cheese, cottage cheese, soured cream, crème
fraîche, yogurt, radishes, cherry tomatoes, chicken, fish, shellfish.
IN SEASON March–September (best April–August)

Pickling/pearl onions
EAT Mild sweet flavour best for pickling, but also to cook whole in
white sauce, and in classic casseroles and stews. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Malt, white or balsamic vinegars, coriander seeds,
yellow mustard seeds, dried chillies, black peppercorns, bay leaf,
milk, cream, red and white wine, beef, lardons, chicken, pork,
lamb, game, fish, peas, cheese, ham. IN SEASON June–March (best
June–September)
Spring onions
EAT Chop or slice in salads, salsas, omelettes, stir-fries, and Thai
curries. Finely chop and add to mashed potato. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Thai red and green curry pastes, galangal, lemongrass,
nam pla, eggs, potatoes, meat, chicken, fish, most cheeses. IN
SEASON March–September (best April–August), imported all year
Round shallot
EAT Use as banana or grey shallots, or can be pickled. Try them
finely chopped or sliced with cheese and sage in toasted
sandwiches. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Malt or balsamic vinegars,
coriander seeds, yellow mustard seeds, black peppercorns,
cinnamon sticks, chillies, bay leaf. IN SEASON September–March

French grey shallot

EAT Peel and chop or use whole for classic French dishes such as
boeuf bourguignon or coq au vin, or finely chop with red wine
vinegar as a dressing for raw oysters. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Red
wine vinegar, oysters, mussels, beef, chicken, red wine, lardons,
carrots, celery, cream, white wine, sherry, fennel, parsley. IN
SEASON September–March

Leeks
EAT Cut in thin rings for salads; slice or cut in chunks and boil,
steam, sauté, or stir-fry; braise or griddle split in half, or whole if
fairly small. Good boiled with potatoes then mashed. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Fish, lamb, chicken, cream, cheese, parsley, potatoes,
lemon, olive oil, sage, thyme, fennel, chillies. IN SEASON
September–April (best September–February), imported all year

Baby leeks
EAT Known as poor man’s asparagus. Griddle, roast, or steam
whole. Also good as a pizza topping. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Olive oil,
chillies, Parmesan, anchovies, toasted pine nuts, almonds, and
pumpkin seeds, sun-dried tomatoes, basil, thyme, parsley, olives.
IN SEASON September–April (best September–February)

Garlic
EAT Use in dressings, sauces, marinades or to rub over meat or
bread. Crush with a little salt and beat into mashed potatoes or
sweet potatoes. Roast whole heads. Also available frozen, chopped,
or crushed in jars, as a paste, dried granules, salt, or pickled.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Any meat, poultry, game, fish, shellfish,
pulses, most vegetables, fresh herbs, spices, mayonnaise, cheeses,
soured cream, yogurt, walnuts, pine nuts. IN SEASON Available all
year (best June–August)

Wet garlic
EAT Also known as “green” garlic. Mildly garlicky. Chop or crush
and use like spring onions to flavour dips and marinades. Delicious
rubbed on rustic bread with beefsteak tomatoes for pan con
tomate. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Tomatoes, soft cheeses, mayonnaise,
yogurt, crème fraîche, soured cream, olives, basil, pine nuts, white
wine, white balsamic condiment, olive oil, fresh chillies. IN
SEASON May–September
Elephant garlic
EAT Not a true garlic, but related to the leek. It has very large
cloves but a surprisingly mild flavour. Use as onions or slice, rub
with oil and grill, or roast the cloves whole, pop out of their skins,
drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with coarse sea salt then mash and
serve with rustic bread. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Olive oil, coarse sea
salt, butter, wine, cream, mushrooms, thyme, parsley. IN SEASON
Available all year

Wild garlic
EAT Also called ramsons, rampions, and bear’s garlic, it gives off a
strong garlic smell when crushed. The leaves make a delicious
green soup (with potato), an excellent pesto, and are also good in
sandwiches, salads, and stir-fries. The flowers can be eaten too.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Olive oil, pine nuts, Parmesan cheese,
parsley, thyme, potatoes, onions, sorrel, rocket, tomatoes, water
chestnuts, beansprouts, soy sauce, ginger. IN SEASON April–June
Tree onion (Egyptian onion)
EAT The little bulblets grow at the top of a tall stem, hence their
name. They are surprisingly pungent. Good in soups, sautéed, and
added to casseroles, used sparingly in salsas and salads, and for
pickling. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beef, chicken, game, cheeses, celery,
bay leaf, sage, parsley, pickling spices, malt and red wine vinegar.
IN SEASON March–October
Vegetable fruits
BUY Choose unblemished fruits with glossy,
firm skin. Avocados should give slightly when
gently squeezed in the palm of the hand.
STORE Aubergines are best eaten fresh but can
be stored in a cool dark place for 1–2 days.
Ripen green breadfruit in a cool, dark place for
7–10 days. Leave unripe avocados on the
windowsill to soften, then store in the fridge for
2–3 days. Tomatoes should be kept in a fruit
bowl, not the refrigerator, unless overripe.
Peppers and chillies will keep in a paper bag in
the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Cherry tomatoes
EAT Whole or halved in salads, or as a snack, or lightly crush, stew
in olive oil and use as a pizza topping. Also available bottled and
semi-dried. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Salad leaves, cucumber, celery,
olives, pumpkin and sunflower seeds, red onions, basil, oregano,
olive oil, balsamic vinegar, goat’s cheese, mozzarella balls, rocket.
IN SEASON July–October, imported all year
Standard globe tomatoes
EAT Classic fruit that come in green and yellow as well as red
varieties. Grill, fry, bake, poach, add to soups, stews and curries, or
quarter or slice for salads. Also available dried, as ketchup and
sauce. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, eggs, fish, mushrooms, cheese,
parsley, thyme, oregano, sage, cinnamon, garlic, onions, chillies,
Thai red curry paste, coconut milk. IN SEASON July–October,
imported all year

Plum tomatoes
EAT Best tomato for sauces and soup, but also keeps its shape well
when sliced for grilling or roasting. Use baby ones with pasta.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Basil, oregano, bay, chervil, onions, garlic,
bacon, olive oil, orange, celery salt. IN SEASON July–October,
imported all year

Beefsteak tomatoes
EAT Slicing tomatoes, but also good to roast, bake (with or without
stuffing), sauté, or stew. Also rub on rustic bread with green garlic
for the classic Pan con Tomate. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Mozzarella,
Parmesan, eggs (bake inside), olives, anchovies, pesto, pine nuts,
almonds, rustic bread, green garlic, peppers, courgettes,
aubergines, avocados, basil, oregano, marjoram, chervil. IN
SEASON July–October, imported all year

Avocado
EAT Hass has black skin when ripe and creamy flesh for mashing
on toast. Green Fuerte is better for slicing. Best eaten raw but can
be made into soup or baked. Slice for sandwiches, mash for
guacamole, mix with sugar and cream to make ice cream. Add acid
like lemon or lime juice to prevent discolouration. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Parma ham, mozzarella, bacon, prawns, tomatoes,
spinach, grapefruit, lime, mango, lemon, pineapple, sugar,
balsamic vinegar, chillies. IN SEASON Imported all year
Fuerte avocado

Hass avocado
Aubergine
EAT The most common are large purple ones, but there are also
white, stripy and round Italian ones. Slice large ones and griddle, or
dip in batter and deep-fry. Dice and pan-fry or stew, or roast whole
then purée with spices. Baby purple ones also available to cook
whole or split – ideal for curries. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Ham, lamb,
beef, mozzarella, feta, hard cheeses, garlic, mushrooms, tomatoes,
sweet peppers, lemon, oregano, mint, thyme, chillies, olive oil,
cinnamon, curry spices. IN SEASON June–October, imported all
year

Italian long white aubergine

Italian striped aubergine

Italian round aubergine

 Oval deep purple aubergine

Bell peppers
EAT Available in varying colours from green through to red. Eat
raw, cut into batonettes as crudités, or add to salads. Stuff and
bake, roast, griddle, barbecue, stew, sauté, stir-fry, or coat in batter
and deep-fry. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, lamb, beef, pork,
anchovies, garlic, onions, sweetcorn, tomatoes, olives, capers,
cheese, rosemary, oregano. IN SEASON July–October, imported all
year
 Red bell pepper

Green bell pepper

 Yellow bell pepper

Pimientos de Padrón
EAT Tiny green peppers from Spain. Most are mild and fruity,
about one in 30 is fiery. Sauté in olive oil as a tapas. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Olive oil, sea salt, crusty bread. IN SEASON July–
November

Romano peppers
EAT Yellow ones also available. Grill or roast with or without
stuffing. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chorizo and other spicy sausages,
soft cheeses, chilli, garlic, basil, parsley, chives, capers. IN SEASON
July–October, imported all year
Scotch Bonnet chilli
EAT Crinkly, rounded chillies in a variety of colours. Extremely hot.
Used in many Caribbean hot sauces and jerk seasoning. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Chicken, beef, pumpkin and other squashes, potatoes,
sweet potatoes, yam, spring onions, garlic, spinach, allspice, bay,
coconut milk, lime. IN SEASON July–November, imported all year

Jalapeño chilli
EAT Often sliced and used as a condiment or a pizza topping. Also
available pickled. can be stuffed. Moderately hot. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Beef, spicy sausages, noodles, sweet peppers, courgettes,
aubergines, peanuts, cashews, tomatoes, mozzarella, cream
cheese, sheep’s cheese. IN SEASON July–November, imported all
year
Thai (bird’s eye) chillies
EAT Used fresh and dried, these thin little chillies are red or green.
Add to curries and stir-fries or chop for pastes and dips. Very hot.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Most spices, coriander leaf, bay leaf, coconut
milk, lime, nam pla, palm sugar, galangal, spring onions, chicken,
beef, pork, lamb, fish. IN SEASON July–November, imported all
year

Hungarian hot wax chilli

EAT Fleshy long chilli that can be chopped, sliced or stuffed. Use in
salads, stir-fries, braises and pickles. Moderately hot. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Beef, pork, lamb, chicken, seafood, cream cheese, hard
cheese, thyme, sage, tomatoes. IN SEASON July–November,
imported all year

Serrano chilli
EAT Mexican chilli that can be stuffed but is often sliced or
chopped and used in salsas and soups along with dried chillies.
Moderately hot. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Sweet peppers, potatoes,
onions, garlic, dried chipotle chillies, avocado, tomatoes, coriander
leaf, prawns, steak. IN SEASON July–November, imported all year
Mushrooms and truffles
BUY The mushroom season lasts from late
summer to early winter, but some varieties,
such as morel, appear in spring. Many species
are now cultivated. If foraging for wild
mushrooms, do not eat any unless you are sure
they are edible – they can be delicious or
deadly! All mushrooms should be fresh and dry,
not damaged or slimy. They should smell
earthy and sweet. STORE Keep in the
refrigerator in a closed paper bag (never plastic)
for up to a week. They dry well and can then be
stored for months. Reconstitute by soaking in
warm water. Some also available frozen.
Cultivated white button
EAT Buttons become closed cup mushrooms as they grow. Use raw
in salads and as crudités. Chop, slice, halve, or quarter to add to
soups, stews, casseroles, sauces, pasta, and rice dishes. Also
available sliced, dried, and frozen. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Onions,
garlic, tomatoes, coriander seeds and leaf, parsley, oregano, lemon,
cream, crème fraîche, yogurt, white wine, sherry, steaks, chicken.
IN SEASON Cultivated all year
Chestnut or brown crimini
EAT Young portobello mushrooms. Meaty, with nutty flavour. Slice
raw for salads, sauté, or stir-fry. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Oregano,
parsley, marjoram, chives, parsley, coriander leaf and seeds, curry
spices, Thai spices, red wine, garlic, bacon, onions. IN SEASON
Cultivated all year

Enoki
EAT Cultivated in clumps, they have a crisp texture and mild
flavour. Good in soups and stir-fries, or raw in salads and
sandwiches. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, prawns, crab, chicken
and fish broth, cucumber, celery, carrot, soy sauce, garlic,
beansprouts, peppers. IN SEASON Cultivated all year

Open cup or flat

EAT Full-grown button mushrooms. They have a firm texture and
earthy flavour. Grill, pan-fry, stuff, or bake. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Garlic, cream, white wine, herb stuffings, cheese, pâté, bacon, eggs,
parsley. IN SEASON Cultivated all year
Portobello
EAT Large, flat, meaty mushrooms. Cook whole, chopped, or sliced.
Fry, bake (with or without stuffing), or grill. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Butter, garlic, cream, fresh herbs, white or rosé wine, halloumi and
soft cheeses, cider, tomatoes, spring onions. IN SEASON Cultivated
all year

Morel
EAT One of the most sought after wild mushrooms. Never eat raw.
Often sold dried. Best sautéed. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Butter, olive
oil, garlic, asparagus, leeks, cream, white wine, brandy, eggs,
chicken, beef, veal, halibut, turbot, monkfish. IN SEASON April–
May
Chanterelle/girolle
EAT Highly acclaimed with a nutty, fruity flavour. Best sautéed.
Good in sauces. Also available dried. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Other
mushrooms, beef, chicken, fish, seafood, shallots, red wine, sherry,
brandy, tomatoes, cheese, ginger, soy sauce, peppers. IN SEASON
June–January

Cep/porcini
EAT Highly revered by chefs. Slice and sauté or add to risottos and
pasta dishes. Also available dried. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Risotto
rice, pasta, cream, brandy, white wine, leeks, onions, garlic, Parma
ham, Parmesan, truffle oil, beef, chicken, game, scallops. IN
SEASON September–November
Oyster
EAT Young ones are tender and mild with a slight aniseed flavour.
Use in stir-fries and soups. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Eggs, chicken, fish
or vegetable broth, noodles, beef, chicken, pork, prawns, crab,
spring onions, Chinese five-spice powder, soy sauce, rice wine
vinegar. IN SEASON Cultivated all year

Shiitake
EAT Originally from Japan, with a chewy, meaty texture and good
flavour. Stir-fry or add to soups, stews and casseroles. Also
available dried. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pork, chicken, beef, prawns,
noodles, rice, soy sauce, ginger, garlic, spring onions, bamboo
shoots, water chestnuts, beansprouts, chillies, rice wine, oyster
sauce. IN SEASON Cultivated all year
Wood blewit (pied bleu)
EAT Faint aniseed smell. Do not eat raw. Good with other
mushrooms in soups, stroganoff, risottos, tarts and with pasta.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cream, crème fraîche, brandy, white wine,
rice, pearl barley, lasagne, Italian hard cheeses, thyme, parsley,
marjoram. IN SEASON September–November, cultivated all year

Field
EAT The most common wild mushroom with excellent flavour,
especially when mature. Fry or grill. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon,
eggs, sausages, steak, venison, risotto rice, cream, crème fraîche.
IN SEASON September–November

White (Alba) truffle

EAT The best are from Piedmont, Italy, with complex earthy
aromas and flavours. Grate or shave over hot foods. Also available
dried and as flavoured oil. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Eggs, risotto rice,
pasta, game birds, scallops, halibut, monkfish, foie gras, potatoes,
olive oil, garlic, Parmesan cheese. IN SEASON November–February

Black (Périgord) truffle

EAT Delicate fragrance of woodland and chocolate. Shave or grate
over hot foods. Also available dried, and as flavoured oil. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Spaghetti, chicken, rabbit, game birds, celeriac, meaty
white fish, shellfish, pancetta. IN SEASON November–March
Salad leaves
BUY There are an astounding variety of tasty
leaves available with overlapping seasons, so
there is always a supply of one kind or another
to enjoy. Choose fresh-looking leaves with firm
hearts, if relevant. Avoid if wilting or bruised.
STORE Whole heads will keep in the vegetable
box in the fridge for a week or more, unwashed
leaves will keep in a plastic bag for several days
but ready-washed deteriorate more quickly.
Chicory
EAT Cut a cone shape out of base with a pointed knife to remove
bitter core. Add raw to salads or use whole leaves as crudités or
vessels for pastes, salsas, nut butters or cream cheese. Stir-fry,
grill, braise or bake in gratins. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, ham,
prosciutto crudo, blue and Cheddar cheeses, nuts, garlic,
watercress, olive oil, tomato salsa. IN SEASON October–April,
imported all year

Radicchio
EAT A variety of chicory. Tear the leaves and add to salads, braise,
grill, or add to risottos or pasta dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Pancetta, hazelnuts, walnuts, pine nuts, pumpkin seeds, Italian
hard cheeses, ricotta or feta cheeses, balsamic vinegar, preserved
lemons, anchovies. IN SEASON September–March

Curly endive (frisée)

EAT The classic for bistro salad. Tear, rather than cut in pieces.
Can be stir-fried too. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Olive oil, croûtons,
smoked lardons, red onions, parsley, coriander leaf, chillies,
Worcestershire sauce, poached or soft-boiled eggs. IN SEASON
June–September

Escarole (Batavia)
EAT Less bitter than curly endive, usually served in salads.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Balsamic vinegar, fruit vinegars, olive oil,
toasted nut and seed oils, mustard, croûtons, eggs, anchovies,
avocado, pomegranate, raisins. IN SEASON June–September

Butterhead lettuce
EAT Use leaves as soft wrappers for cold mixtures of seafood or
avocado. Braise, steam or shred and cook with other vegetables like
peas and onions. Tear, don’t cut, leaves for salad. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Peas, baby onions, anchovies, cheese, mayonnaise, olive
oil, lemon juice, mustard, garlic. IN SEASON All year

Cos (Romaine)
EAT Succulent leaves ideal for burgers, salads, sandwiches and
wraps. The classic lettuce for Caesar salad. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Anchovies, eggs, croutons, garlic, Parmesan, chicken, onions,
citrus, herbs, honey, mustard. IN SEASON June–September,
imported all year

Red oak
EAT Thin soft leaves and crunchy stalks used in typical mesclun
mix of leaves and shoots. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Rocket, chicory,
chervil, dandelion, purslane, olives, tomatoes, red onions,
artichokes, avocado, beetroot, carrots, olive oil, citrus, fruit and
wine vinegars. IN SEASON April–September
Iceberg
EAT Crisp but bland. Shred for sandwiches or add to burgers.
Braise or blanch, and stuff with meat, fish, chicken or vegetable
mixtures, then steam. Use leaves as vessels for mayonnaise-
dressed salad mixes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Seafood, Russian salad,
rice or pasta salads, minced chicken, pork, veal or liver, soy sauce,
ginger, garlic. IN SEASON June–September, imported all year
Lollo Rosso
EAT Good for adding contrasting texture and colour to mixed
salads. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pears, apples, pomegranate,
blueberries, green salad leaves, cheese, walnuts, toasted pine nuts,
pumpkin seeds, olive oil, toasted nut oils, citrus, wine, sherry and
cider vinegars, chorizo, salami. IN SEASON April–September

Little Gem
EAT Sweet baby cos variety, excellent in salads and sandwiches, or
halve or quarter, then braise or steam. Use whole leaves as vessels.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Mushrooms, spring onions, garlic, peas,
bacon, Italian hard cheeses, tabbouleh, walnuts. IN SEASON April–
September, imported all year
Rocket
EAT Peppery, slightly bitter flavour. Excellent in salads, purée for
pesto, add to frittatas, or scatter over pizzas just before serving.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pine nuts, almonds, olive oil, citrus, garlic,
hard and blue cheeses, tomatoes, onions, eggs, potatoes, thyme,
basil, rosemary, oregano, lamb’s lettuce, watercress. IN SEASON
All year (best May–October)

Dandelion
EAT Use only young plants. Add leaves to salads or wilt with a hot
dressing. Boil, steam, braise, or stir-fry. Roots can be sliced and
eaten raw, or baked or roasted whole. Buds that are still inside the
crown can be added to pancakes, omelettes, fritters, and frittatas.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, cheese, garlic, onion, lemon, mustard,
olive oil, wine or balsamic vinegar. IN SEASON March–May

Mizuna
EAT Often mixed with other salad leaves, good in sandwiches, as a
bed for seafood, with sautéed meats or chicken livers, and as a
garnish. Steam or stir-fry briefly, then toss in noodle dishes.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pork, chicken livers, fish, shellfish, ginger,
lemon, sesame oil, olive oil, toasted seeds, tamari. IN SEASON All
year (best September–May)
Lamb’s lettuce (corn salad)
EAT Excellent in warm or cold mixed salads or thrown into sautés
at the last minute so it just wilts. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Onions,
croûtons, sweetcorn, honey, mustard, cherry tomatoes, toasted
seeds, pears, avocados, lardons. IN SEASON May–November

Purslane
EAT The fleshy leaves are slightly mucilaginous and can be used to
thicken soups and stews in the same way as okra. Add leaves to
salads, stir-fries, soups, and stews. Pickle in salt and white wine
vinegar. The flowers are good in salads and for garnishing.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beetroot, broad beans, cucumber, spinach,
potatoes, tomatoes, eggs, feta cheese, yogurt. IN SEASON May–
October

Watercress
EAT Use in salads, sandwiches, and as a garnish. Stir-fry or use for
soups and sauces. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cucumber, beetroot, goat’s
cheese, eggs, salmon, other oily fish, chicken, duck, oranges,
potatoes. IN SEASON All year

Salad cress
EAT The sprouting leaves of cress seeds. Add to salads,
sandwiches, and use as a garnish. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Eggs,
salmon, sardines, tuna, Cheddar cheese, cream cheese, tomatoes,
cucumber. IN SEASON All year
Nori
EAT Wrap these crispy toasted seaweed sheets around warm
vinegared sushi rice and vegetable or fish fillings, to make Japanese
sushi rolls or Korean gimbap, or crumble into Asian-style salads.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Sesame, sugar, rice, rice vinegar, salt, fish,
noodles, avocado, cucumber, daikon, carrot, chilli, kimchi.
Peel and dice an onion

1 Using a sharp chef’s knife, hold the onion firmly in one hand,
then cut the bulb lengthways in half and peel off the skin, leaving
the root intact to hold the layers together.

2 Lay one half cut-side down on the board. Hold it in place while
you make a few slices into the onion horizontally, making sure that
you cut up to, but not through, the root.
3 Hold the horizontally sliced onion firmly, then with the forward
tip of your knife, slice down through the layers vertically, cutting
as close to the root as possible. Repeat, slicing at regular intervals.

4 Now, cut across the vertical slices that you have just made, to
produce an even dice. Use the root to hold the onion steady, then
discard this part when the rest of the onion has been diced.
Wash and cut leeks julienne

1 With a sharp knife, trim off the root end and some of the dark,
green leaf top. Cut the leek in half lengthways and spread the
layers apart.

2 Rinse the leek under cold running water to remove the soil that
tends to collect between the layers, then pat it dry with kitchen
paper.
3 Lay the halved leek flat-side down on the chopping board and
slice it into thick or thin strips, according to the recipe.
Peel and chop garlic

1 Place each garlic clove on a cutting board. Cover with the flat
side of a large knife and pound with the palm of your hand.

2 Pushing down on the cloves should make it easier to peel away

the papery skin. Discard this, then cut off the ends of each clove.
3 Slice the clove into slivers lengthways, then cut across into tiny
chunks. Collect the pieces into a pile and chop again for finer
pieces.
Skin and deseed tomatoes

1 Hold the tomato steady in one hand, while you use a sharp knife
to score an “X” through its skin at the base.

2 Completely immerse the tomato in boiling water for around 20

seconds, or until you can see the skin begin to split.
3 Remove the tomato from the boiling water with a slotted spoon
and immediately plunge it into iced water to cool it.

4 When the tomato is cool enough to handle, use a paring knife to

peel off the skin, starting at the base where you made the “X”.
5 Slice the tomato in half, then gently squeeze it in your hand to
force the seeds out over a bowl and discard them.

6 Place the now seedless tomato on a board and hold it firmly with
one hand while you slice it first into strips and then into dice.
Peel and cut into julienne

1 Hold the vegetable firmly in one hand while you peel it thinly
using a vegetable peeler or small paring knife. If you are peeling
beetroot, you may wish to wear rubber gloves to prevent staining
your hands.

2 Place the peeled vegetable on a clean board and hold it steady

while you use a chef’s knife to trim the sides. Do this as evenly as
possible, to form a square shape.
3 Holding the trimmed block gently but firmly, cut it into equal
slices of the thickness of 3mm (1⁄8in) for julienne vegetables, and
5mm (1⁄4in) if you are preparing batonettes.

4 Stack the vegetable slices, just a few at a time to avoid them

sliding about, and cut each batch into neat, square-edged
batonettes that are the same thickness as the slices.
Cut courgette batonettes

1 Place the courgette on a board and cut off both ends. Cut it in
half lengthways, then hold the courgette firmly on its side and cut
each half again to make slices 5mm (1⁄4in) thick.

2 Now put each slice of courgette flat on the board and cut across
it with a sharp chef’s knife to make equal-sized batonettes: sticks
with an approximate width of 5mm (1⁄4in).
Cut carrot batonettes

1 Cut each carrot in half crossways. Set a mandolin blade to a

5mm (¼in) thickness and hold it steady. Press the carrot with the
other hand (keeping your fingers clear). Slice up and down until the
slices are uniform.

2 Stack the carrot slices and neaten them by by cutting the

rounded sides away with a sharp knife to achieve a rectangular
shape. Then cut the stacked carrot slices lengthways to make
strips of equal width.
Prepare asparagus

1 With a sharp chef’s knife, cut the hard ends from the asparagus
spears. If the ends are woody, bend them with your finger until
they snap off (they will break at the point where they become more
fibrous).

2 To ensure that the asparagus is really tender, hold the tip of the
spear very carefully so that you do not bruise it, then use a
vegetable peeler to peel off a thin layer of skin from all sides of the
stalk.
Remove sweetcorn kernels

1 Remove the husks and all the silk thread from the corn-on-the-
cob. Rinse the husked corn under cold running water.

2 Place the blunt end on the cutting board. Use a sharp chef’s
knife and slice straight down the cob. Rotate the cob and repeat.
3 To extract the “milk”, hold the cob upright in a bowl and use
your knife to scrape down the side. Turn the corn and repeat.
Turn vegetables

1 If necessary, peel the vegetables first, then using a sharp knife,

cut them into pieces that are 5cm (2in) long.

2 Now, holding a vegetable piece between your thumb and

forefinger, begin slicing off the sides to create a curve.
3 Keep turning the vegetable piece in your hand as you cut. The
aim is to create a rugby ball shape with 7 curved sides.
Prepare a mirepoix

1 For stocks and some braised dishes, cut an onion lengthways

into quarters, and celery, carrots, and leeks into 5cm (2in) chunks.

2 Braised dishes and stews require smaller chunks, so cut the

onion, celery, carrots, and leeks into a 2cm (3⁄4in) dice.
3 For dishes with a short cooking time, cut the celery, carrot, and
leek into a 5mm (1⁄4in) dice. Dice the onion using the crosshatch
method.
Core and shred cabbage

1 Hold the head of the cabbage firmly on the cutting board and
use a sharp knife to cut it in half, straight through the stalk end.

2 Cut the halves again through the stalk lengthways, and slice out
the core (which will be tough) from each quarter.
3 Working with each quarter at a time, place the wedge cut-side
down. Cut across the cabbage, creating broad or fine shreds.
Trim, wash, and dry salad leaves

1 Trim the ends of the leaves and discard any discoloured ones. If
any of the leaves are tough, cut out the stalk from each one.

2 Place the salad leaves in a colander and rinse under running

water or immerse in cool water. Shake them gently to loosen any
dirt.
3 Drain the leaves, then gently pat dry with a clean tea towel or
kitchen paper. Alternatively, use a salad spinner to remove excess
water.
Stone and remove avocado flesh

1 Hold the avocado firmly in one hand, then with a chef’s knife,
slice straight into the avocado, cutting all the way around the
stone.

2 Once the avocado has been cut all the way around, gently twist
the two halves in opposite directions and separate.
3 Strike the cutting edge of your knife into the stone and lift the
knife (wiggling it if necessary) to remove it from the avocado.

4 To release the avocado stone from your knife, use a wooden

spoon to carefully prise it away, then discard the stone.
5 Quarter the avocado and hold it very gently to avoid damaging
the flesh, then use a paring knife to peel away and discard the skin.

6 To dice an avocado, cut it into neat slices lengthways, then

repeat the cuts crossways to the desired size.
Prepare whole artichokes

1 Hold the artichoke firmly by the stalk, then with a pair of strong
kitchen scissors, snip off the tough tips of the leaves.

2 Now cut through the stalk at the base of the artichoke. Take care
to hold the artichoke firmly while you do this.
3 Pull out any tough, darker green leaves and discard. Then cut
through the pointed tip. The artichoke is now ready to cook as
desired.
Prepare artichoke hearts

1 Cut or pull away all of the leaves from the whole artichoke first,
then cut the stalk from the base and discard.

2 With a sharp knife, cut off the soft middle cone of leaves just
above the hairy choke. Rub the flesh with lemon to reduce
browning.
3 Trim away the bottom leaves with a paring knife. Scoop out the
hairy choke if you plan to cut the heart into pieces for cooking.
Prepare bell peppers

1 Place the pepper on its side and cut off the top and bottom.
Stand on one of the cut ends and slice in half lengthways. Remove
the core and seeds.

2 Open each section and lay them flat on the cutting board. Using
a sideways motion, remove the remaining pale, fleshy ribs.
3 Cut the peppers into smaller sections, following the divisions of
the pepper. Chop according to the preparation of your dish.
Roast and peel peppers

1 With a pair of tongs, hold the pepper over an open flame to char
the skin. Rotate the pepper and char each side evenly.

2 Put each pepper into a plastic bag, seal, and allow the skins to
loosen. When the peppers have cooled, peel away the charred skin.
3 Pull off the stalk, with the core attached, if possible. Discard the
pepper seeds and slice the flesh into strips.
Deseed and cut chillies

1 Cut the chilli lengthways in half. Using the tip of your knife,
scrape out the seeds and remove the membrane and stem.

2 Turn the chilli half flesh-side down and flatten with the palm of
your hand. Turn it over again and slice it lengthways into strips.
3 For dice, hold the strips of cut chillies firmly together and
carefully slice crossways to make equal-sized pieces.
Deseed, roast, and grind chillies

Scraping the seeds out of a chilli will lessen its heat. Cut in half
lengthways, then scrape out the seeds with a knife or spoon.

To impart a smoky flavour to chillies, dry-roast in a heavy-based

frying pan over a high heat. Remove when they begin to darken.
Use a mortar and pestle to grind dry-roasted chillies to a powder,
or they can be soaked, sieved, and ground to a paste.
Roast potatoes

1 Peel and cut the potatoes into equal-sized pieces. Put in a pan
with lightly salted cold water to cover, and boil for 10 minutes.
Drain and set aside until they are cool enough to handle, then
score them with a fork.

2 Heat a roasting pan with a thin layer of sunflower oil, goose, or

duck fat in a hot oven at 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Coat the potatoes in
the hot fat and roast for 1 hour, or until crisp. Drain on kitchen
paper.
Mash potatoes

1 Boil the potatoes until they are tender. Drain through a colander,
then return them to the pan. Add butter, cream, salt, pepper, and
nutmeg to taste. Re-cover the pan and leave for 5 minutes.

2 Using a potato masher, mash the potatoes until they are smooth
and fluffy. Adjust the seasoning and add extra butter and cream, if
desired. Keep hot until ready to serve.
Pan fry potatoes

1 If using unpeeled potatoes, scrub them first by washing in water

and lightly rubbing with a small vegetable brush to remove any
dirt.

2 Heat a thin layer of sunflower or olive oil in a frying pan until

hot. Over a medium heat, fry a single layer of potato slices for 10
minutes.
3 Using a fish slice or spatula and a knife, turn the slices over and
fry until golden and tender. Drain on kitchen paper and season to
taste.
Make chips

1 The first step to good, chunky chips is cutting large, floury

potatoes into slices 1 cm (½in) thick and about 7.5cm (3in) long.

2 Heat oil for deep-frying to 160°C (325°F). Add the chips. Fry for 5–
6 minutes, until soft, not brown. Remove and drain.
3 Reheat the oil to 180°C (350°F) and fry all the chips again for 2–3
minutes, until crisp and golden. Drain on kitchen paper.
Boil green vegetables

1 Bring a pan of salted water to the boil. Add the vegetables in

small batches to avoid the water temperature being reduced.

2 Return the water to the boil, then reduce the heat and gently
simmer the vegetables until they are just tender.
3 Drain through a colander and serve; or, to set the green colour
and stop the vegetables cooking, rinse under cold running water.
Stir-fry vegetables

1 When the wok (or pan) is hot, add sunflower, rapeseed, or

groundnut oil, tilting the pan to spread the oil, then toss in garlic or
ginger.

2 Add the desired vegetables and use a spatula to toss continually.

Add any meat first, and toss it more slowly to allow it to cook.
3 Some vegetables, such as broccoli, are best steamed for a few
minutes. Add a couple of tbsp of water and cover until just tender.
Steam vegetables

1 Bring approximately 2.5cm (1in) of water to the boil in the

bottom pan of a steamer. Place the prepared vegetables in the
upper basket and position it above the bottom pan.

2 When the steam rises, cover the pan with a fitted lid and cook
until the vegetables are just tender. Test frequently with a knife to
ensure that they are tender, but not overcooked.
Sauté firm vegetables

1 Set a sauté pan over a high heat. When it is hot, add a thin layer
of oil or a small amount of clarified butter. As soon as this has
heated, add the vegetables to the pan and keep turning them to
cook evenly.

2 Continue turning and tossing the vegetables in the sauté pan.

They should gradually take on a light golden brown colour and
become tender. Remove from the heat and serve.
Herbs
BUY All herbs should look fresh, whether cut or
growing in pots. Avoid any that look wilted or
discoloured. Ideally, plant a herb garden or in a
window box. Buy dried herbs in small quantities
as they lose their fragrance once exposed to the
air. Use sparingly as their flavour is
concentrated. Also available frozen. STORE Best
picked and used fresh, but cut can be stored in
a plastic bag in the refrigerator for a few days.
Freeze sealed bags of cut herbs, whole or
chopped, for up to 6 months.

Chives
EAT Always add at the end of cooking. Snip and add to soups,
salads (in particular potato), sauces (especially soured cream or
yogurt), and use as a garnish. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Avocados,
courgettes, potatoes, root vegetables, cream cheese, yogurt, soured
cream, eggs, fish, seafood, smoked salmon. IN SEASON March–
November
Dill
EAT Add at the end of cooking and to salad dressings and creamy
sauces for fish and vegetables. Use to flavour pickled fish and
cucumber. Add seeds to stuffings, cakes, and breads. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS (leaves) Beetroot, broad beans, carrots, celeriac,
cucumber, potatoes, spinach, eggs, fish, seafood, (seeds) rice,
cabbage, potatoes, pumpkin, vinegars. IN SEASON May–September
 Dill seeds

Leaf celery
EAT Excellent way to add the flavour of celery to any dish with just
a few leaves or for garnish. Use the seeds sparingly, they are very
strong. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cabbage, potatoes, cucumber,
tomatoes, chicken, fish, rice, soy sauce, tofu, soft white cheese. IN
SEASON May–October
 Celery seeds

Chervil
EAT Scatter over vegetables or add to salads, in scrambled eggs or
omelettes, in vinaigrette, butter or cream sauces, delicate soups
and consommé. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Asparagus, broad beans,
green beans, beetroot, carrots, fennel, lettuce, peas, potatoes,
tomatoes, mushrooms, cream cheese, eggs, fish, seafood, poultry,
veal. IN SEASON May–October

Coriander
EAT Except when used in curry pastes, best added at end of
cooking. Use in curries, stir-fries, pesto, salsas, chutneys, relishes,
and as a garnish. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Avocados, sweetcorn,
cucumber, root vegetables, onions, chillies, coconut milk, poultry,
meat, fish, seafood, citrus, pulses, rice. IN SEASON May–October,
imported all year

Tarragon
EAT Use in moderation. Add to green salads or vinaigrette; in
marinades; to flavour goat’s cheese and feta, in egg dishes, herb
butter, and vinegar. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Artichokes, asparagus,
courgettes, tomatoes, mushrooms, potatoes, salsify, fish, seafood,
poultry, eggs, game, feta, and goat’s cheese. IN SEASON May–
October
Horseradish
EAT Don’t cook. As soon as it’s grated, mix with lemon juice to
preserve colour and pungency. Use in dressings, relishes, sauces, to
glaze ham with apricot preserve or honey. Also available grated in
jars. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Sausages, beef, gammon, oily and
smoked fish, seafood, avocados, beetroot, red cabbage, potatoes,
celeriac, apples. IN SEASON October–December
Fennel
EAT The leaves, flowers, and pollen give anise fragrance to cold
soups, chowders, roast meats and vegetables, and in fish dishes.
Add seeds to potatoes, breads, and pickles. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Beetroot, beans, cabbage, leeks, cucumber, tomatoes, potatoes,
duck, fish, seafood, pork, lentils, rice. IN SEASON May–September
 Fennel seeds

Lavender
EAT Infuse flowers in milk, syrup, cream, or wine for baking and
desserts and add to jams, jellies, or fruit compôtes. Use chopped
flowers and leaves to flavour roast lamb, rabbit, chicken, and
pheasant. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Berries, plums, cherries, rhubarb,
chicken, lamb, rabbit, pheasant, chocolate. IN SEASON March–
September

Bay
EAT Add whole to flavour soups, stews, sauces, pickles, milk
puddings, and marinades. Thread on kebabs, or use to top terrines
or pâtés before baking. Remove before serving. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Meat, poultry, offal, game, fish, chestnuts, citrus,
haricot beans, lentils, rice, tomatoes, mushrooms. IN SEASON All
year

Lovage
EAT Use leaves and stalks instead of celery or parsley in salads,
sauces, marinades, soups, stews, casseroles, or with just about any
vegetable. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Apples, root vegetables, potatoes,
Jerusalem artichokes, courgettes, mushrooms, tomatoes,
sweetcorn, Cheddar, Gruyère or cream cheeses, eggs, pulses, fish,
meat, poultry, rice. IN SEASON May–September
Garden mint
EAT Also called spearmint, the most common mint variety for
cooking. Use in sweet and savoury dishes, to flavour and garnish.
In some Mediterranean countries, dried is preferred to fresh.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Lamb, duck, potatoes, peas, carrots,
tomatoes, cucumber, currants, curries, chocolate, yogurt. IN
SEASON March–October

Sweet basil
EAT It loses flavour quickly, so add at the end of cooking or to cold
dishes. It’s the classic flavouring for tomato-based dishes, Genoese
pesto, and French pistou. Best torn or rolled, then chopped. Look
out for purple, Thai, and Greek basil too. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Tomatoes, garlic, pine nuts, mozzarella and other cheeses, eggs,
aubergines, haricot beans, courgettes, lemon, olives, peas, pizzas,
potatoes, rice, raspberries, sweetcorn. IN SEASON June–September,
imported all year

Oregano
EAT Popular for flavouring everything from pizzas to baked fish,
salads to Mexican bean dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Lamb, beef,
chicken, pork, pulses, chilli, cumin, coriander leaf, garlic, tomatoes,
aubergines, Cheddar, mozzarella, feta and halloumi cheeses,
olives, peppers. IN SEASON March–October

Sweet marjoram
EAT Similar to oregano but with a more delicate, sweet flavour.
Use leaves and flower knots in salads, cream sauces, egg and
delicate fish dishes, for marinating fresh cheeses, and as a garnish.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Olive oil, fresh white cheeses, plaice, sole, red
mullet, mushrooms, eggs, squashes. IN SEASON March–October

Sage
EAT Use sparingly to flavour rich meats and offal, in toasted
sandwiches, stuffings, and polenta. Good as a simple pasta sauce
with olive oil, butter, and sea salt. Deep-fry leaves for a few
seconds for a garnish. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pork, duck, goose, veal,
chicken, liver, sausages, cheeses, beans, tomatoes, apples, bay leaf,
caraway, onions, celery, garlic, lovage, marjoram. IN SEASON All
year
Parsley
EAT Flat-leaf parsley has a stronger taste for adding to dishes, but
they are interchangeable. Add chopped at the end of cooking for
best results. Use stalks for flavouring soups and stews. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Eggs, fish, seafood, chicken, béchamel sauce, lentils,
rice, lemon, tomatoes, garlic, onions. IN SEASON March–October,
imported all year

Curly-leaf parsley
 Flat-leaf parsley

Common sorrel
EAT It has a lemony flavour. Good in salads (add a little honey to
the dressing or use balsamic vinegar), shredded in omelettes,
baked or scrambled eggs, in cream sauces, and with fish. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Chicken, pork, veal, fish (especially salmon), mussels,
eggs, lentils, leeks, lettuce, cucumber, tomatoes, spinach,
watercress. IN SEASON March–November
Thyme
EAT Use in stews, casseroles, stuffings, pies, sauces, pâtés,
terrines, and marinades. The flowers make a pretty garnish in
sweet and savoury dishes. Lemon thyme can be used in biscuits,
breads, and fruit salads. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Lamb, rabbit,
chicken, turkey, pulses, aubergines, cabbage, carrots, leeks, wild
mushrooms, tomatoes, onions, potatoes, sweetcorn. IN SEASON
All year
Summer savory
EAT Good in salads, soups, stews, casseroles and stuffings.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Rabbit, chicken, oily fish, cheeses, eggs, broad
and green beans, pulses, beetroot, cabbage, potatoes. IN SEASON
May–October

Rosemary
EAT Finely chop for soups, stews, casseroles, roast vegetables,
meat and fish, in marinades, sautés, and grills. Also good in
creams, bakes, and summer drinks. Use whole woody sprigs as
skewers for kebabs or as basting brushes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Poultry, rabbit, pork, lamb, veal, fish, eggs, lentils, squashes,
peppers, courgettes, cabbage, potatoes, onions, garlic, citrus, fruit,
cream cheese. IN SEASON All year
Spices
BUY Buy spices in small quantities as they lose
their fragrance and colour when exposed to the
air. Avoid any that look dull or discoloured.
Most are available from good supermarkets, but
more unusual spices can be found in specialist
food shops. For best flavour, grind (or grate as
appropriate) whole spices as you need them,
rather than using ready-ground. STORE Keep
fresh spices in a sealed container in the
refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Dried, whole, and
ground spices should be stored in sealed
containers in a cool, dark place. Whole dried
spices will keep for 1–3 years; ground ones for
around 6 months.
Galangal
EAT Similar to ginger, peel and grate, or chop. Soak dried slices
then add to soups and stews. Remove before eating. Use in
Southeast Asian curries, stews, sambals, satays, soups, and sauces.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, fish, seafood, coconut milk, chillies,
fennel, garlic, ginger, lemon grass, lemon, kaffir lime, shallots,
tamarind.
Capers and caperberries
EAT Both from the caper bush, capers are the pickled or salted
buds, and caperberries are the pickled semi-mature fruit. Add
towards the end of cooking, or put in cold sauces or dressings.
Caperberries can be eaten like olives. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Rich
meats, poultry, fish, seafood, globe artichokes, aubergines, green
beans, gherkins, olives, potatoes, tomatoes.
 Caperberries

Capers

Mustard seeds
EAT Black (and brown) seeds can be dry-roasted or heated in hot
oil or ghee to enhance their nutty flavour. Use white (yellow) seeds
for pickling and marinades. Powdered yellow mustard is best for
rubs, barbecue sauce, and in savoury baking. Prepared mustards
are usually served as a condiment, and in sauces, dressings, and
glazes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beef, rabbit, sausages, chicken, ham,
fish, seafood, strong cheeses, cabbage, root vegetables, curries,
dals.

Black mustard seeds

White (yellow) mustard seeds

Paprika
EAT Available as sweet, hot, or smoked (pimentón). Use sweet or
hot in goulash, tagines, soups, and as a garnish; smoked as a rub
for grills and roasts, in braises, and pan-fries. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Beef, veal, chicken, duck, vegetables (sweet/hot); pork, sausages,
fish, onions, pulses, eggs (smoked).

Chilli
EAT Use whole dried (there are many varieties, Kashmir shown
above), flakes, chilli powder, chilli seasoning, or cayenne (the
hottest powder) to add heat and colour. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Most
spices, bay, coriander leaf, parsley, coconut milk, citrus, meats,
poultry, fish, seafood, pulses, tomatoes, avocados, tropical fruits,
chocolate.

Cinnamon
EAT Good for flavouring fruity desserts, breads, cakes, and drinks,
like coffee, chocolate, tea, mulled wine, and ale. Also good in meat
and vegetable tagines and bakes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Lamb,
poultry, aubergines, chocolate, coffee, rice, almonds, apples,
apricots, bananas, pears, other sweet spices.
Caraway seed
EAT Use to flavour rye breads, biscuits, cabbage (particularly
sauerkraut), seed cakes, sausages, soups, and stews. It is also used
in spice blends, such as harissa paste. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Duck,
goose, pork, breads, apples, cabbage, potatoes, root vegetables,
tomatoes.

Coriander seed
EAT The basis for many spice blends. Use in vegetable dishes,
stews, and French à la grecque dishes, for pickling, marinades, and
court-bouillon. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cumin, chicken, pork, ham,
fish, orchard fruits, citrus, mushrooms, onions, potatoes, pulses.
Cumin
EAT Dry-roast before grinding, or fry in oil to use whole to enhance
aroma. Add to soups, curries, and casseroles. Used in numerous
spice blends, from Cajun spices to Indian curry powders. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Meats, poultry, cheeses, vegetables, pulses, coriander
seed and leaf, chilli, oregano.

Kaffir lime leaves

EAT If the fresh or dried leaves are to be eaten rather than
removed before serving, discard the central rib and shred leaf
finely before use. Use in Thai-style salads, curries, fishcakes,
soups, and noodle dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pork, poultry, fish,
seafood, mushrooms, noodles, rice, green vegetables, coconut,
tropical fruits.
Preserved lemons
EAT Slice and roast with vegetables, meat, chicken, or fish, or chop
and add to tagines. Use the salty preserving juice in salad
dressings. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Lamb, chicken, fish, rice,
cardamom, cloves, allspice, pepper, ginger, cinnamon, coriander
leaf, fennel, celery, olives.

Turmeric
EAT Use fresh, crushed, or ground turmeric in spice pastes for
curries, stews, and vegetable dishes, and to flavour and colour rice
and dals. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Meat, poultry, fish, eggs,
aubergines, beans, lentils, rice, root vegetables, spinach.
Cardamom pods
EAT Lightly bruise and fry, or toast, then grind the seeds before
adding to a dish. Split whole pods and add directly to rice. Also
used in spice pastes, sweetmeats, pastries, puddings, breads, ice
creams, tea, coffee, and chocolate. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Apples,
oranges, pears, sweet potatoes, pulses, cinnamon, star anise,
cloves.

Saffron
EAT Characteristic in Mediterranean fish soups and stews. Also
popular in risottos, paellas, biryanis, pilafs, in baking, and to
flavour ice cream. Infuse the strands and add early in cooking for a
deeper colour; later for stronger fragrance. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Chicken, game, fish, seafood, eggs, asparagus, leeks, mushrooms,
spinach, squashes, mayonnaise (as rouille).
Lemongrass
EAT Finely chop or slice to flavour curries, stews, and stir-fries.
Pound with other spices and herbs for curry pastes. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Beef, chicken, pork, fish, seafood, noodles, most
vegetables, Thai or European basil, coriander leaf, chilli, galangal,
cinnamon, cloves, turmeric, coconut milk.

Star anise
EAT Use in Chinese and Vietnamese soups, stews, broths, and
marinades. Also good for fish and seafood dishes, poaching fruit,
and to enhance the sweetness of leeks, pumpkin, and root
vegetables. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, beef, oxtail, pork, fish,
seafood, tropical fruits, figs, pears, leeks, pumpkin, root vegetables,
chilli, cinnamon, coriander seed, fennel seed, garlic, ginger.
Curry leaves
EAT Use in long-simmered South Indian and Sri Lankan curries,
then remove or eat with the dish. Use also in a basic tadka to
spoon over cooked dal. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Lamb, fish, seafood,
lentils, rice, most vegetables, cardamom, chilli, coconut, coriander
leaf, cumin, fenugreek seed, garlic.

Juniper berries
EAT Crush and add to marinades, stuffings, pâtés, and robust
sauces. Also the classic flavouring in gin. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Red
meats, game, goose, apples, celery, cabbage, caraway, garlic,
marjoram, rosemary, savory, thyme.
Sumac
EAT It has a lemony taste, and brings out the flavours of foods,
much as salt does. Use ground as a condiment. Rub on fish,
vegetables, kebabs, and steaks before cooking. Use in chicken and
vegetable casseroles, or mix with yogurt and herbs as a dip.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, lamb, fish, aubergines, chickpeas,
lentils, onions, pine nuts, yogurt, coriander leaf, mint, parsley.

Poppy seed
EAT When baking, sprinkle on or add to breads, bagels, pretzels,
and cakes. Use in dressings for noodles or to garnish vegetables.
Grind to a paste with honey to fill pastries and sweetmeats.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Aubergines, green beans, cauliflower,
courgettes, potatoes, bread, honey.
Nigella seed
EAT Often sold as black onion seed. Add to pilafs, curries, and
pickles, or sprinkle alone or with other seeds on breads, savoury
pastries, and vegetables before baking. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Allspice, cumin, and sesame seeds, coriander leaf, star anise,
pulses, rice, roots, and tubers.

Allspice
EAT Allspice has long been used to preserve meat and fish, and is
still used in pickled fish dishes, as well as in other pickles,
chutneys, some sausages, and mulled wines and beers. Use in
curries and pilafs, too. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Aubergines, onions,
squashes, root vegetables, white cabbage, tomatoes, most fruit.
Peppercorns
EAT Use whole black to flavour cooking liquids, stocks, and
marinades, and freshly ground for dressings, sauces, and cooked
dishes. Mild pink and green peppercorns, often preserved in brine
or vinegar, are good for steak au poivre or with chicken and veal
(rinse before use). Use sharp white pepper for pale coloured sauces.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Meat, poultry, game, fish, seafood, vegetables,
oils, herbs, other spices, salts, some fruits (especially strawberries).

Mace
EAT Similar but lighter than nutmeg. It lifts béchamel and onion
sauces, clear soups, fish stock, potted meat, pâtés, terrrines, cheese
soufflés, chocolate drinks, and cream cheese desserts. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Chicken, lamb, veal, milk, eggs, cheeses, carrots, onions,
pumpkin, spinach, sweet potato, other sweet spices, bay leaf,
thyme.
Nutmeg
EAT Good in many sweet and savoury dishes from vegetable
purées, meat stews, and casseroles, to bread sauce, milk puddings,
and fruit desserts. Best grated fresh, but can be bought ground.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, veal, lamb, cabbage, onion, roots
and tubers, squashes, spinach, cheese, eggs, milk, rice, couscous,
semolina, cardamom, other sweet spices.

Ginger
EAT Add freshly grated to Indian chutneys, relishes, and rice
dishes, in stir-fries, soups, sauces, marinades, and tempura dipping
sauce. Use pickled ginger with sushi, and fried as a garnish. Use
ground ginger in baking for cakes and biscuits, and in desserts. It is
also available preserved in syrup or candied. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Fish, seafood, meat, poultry, most vegetables, chilli, coconut,
garlic, citrus, soy sauce, orchard fruits, rhubarb.
Tamarind
EAT Available in block, concentrate, or paste. For block, soak a
small piece in hot water for 10 minutes. Stir, strain through a fine
sieve, and use the liquid. It adds a sharp tang to curries, sambals,
chutneys, marinades, and sauces, or mix with salt as a rub for
meat. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, lamb, pork, fish, seafood,
lentils, mushrooms, peanuts, most vegetables, chilli, coriander
leaf, cumin, galangal, garlic, ginger, turmeric, mustard, soy sauce,
palm sugar.

Fenugreek
EAT A bitter spice, widely used ground in vegetarian Indian
cookery, in dals, fish curries, stews, and breads. The seeds are used
in pickles, chutneys, and traditional spice blends. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Green and root vegetables, chilli, garlic, fish, chicken,
lentils.
Sichuan pepper
EAT Best ground fresh. Remove the seeds from the berries, dry-
roast briefly, then grind. Use as a condiment or to flavour meat or
poultry for roasting, grilling, or frying, and stir-fried vegetables.
One of the constituents of Chinese five-spice powder. Also
available ground. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Black beans, sesame oil and
seeds, chilli, star anise, ginger, garlic, citrus, soy sauce.

Cloves
EAT Use whole or ground with rich meats, in biscuits, pies, cakes,
syrups, and preserves, and as a pickling and mulling spice.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Ham, pork, duck, venison, orchard fruits,
beetroot, red cabbage, carrots, onions, oranges, squashes,
chocolate, cinnamon.
Vanilla pods
EAT Use whole or split (with or without the seeds scraped into the
dish) to flavour sugar, poached fruit, and desserts. Good with
chicken and seafood, too. The pods can be rinsed, dried, and
reused. Use pure vanilla extract in baking. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Lobster, scallops, mussels, chicken, milk- and cream-based
desserts, chocolate, apples, melons, pears, rhubarb, strawberries.
Salts
BUY Made up of crystals of sodium chloride,
these salts can all be used as a condiment or
seasoning, but for preserving, choose rock salt
or pickling salt. Sea salt is unsuitable for this
purpose because of the minerals it contains. It
is, however, the one to use for cooking. Fine
ground sea salt is labelled simply as cooking
salt or gros sel. There are also speciality sea
salts. Avoid table salt or iodized salt for pickles,
as they can cause clouding of the liquid, or
darkening of the food. STORE Salts have an
indefinite shelf life, but they should be kept in
airtight containers as they will absorb moisture
from the atmosphere and become lumpy. If this
happens, spread evenly in a baking tray, dry in
the oven, and break up the clumps. Iodized salt
may turn yellow, but this is harmless.
Rock salt crystals
EAT The commonest form of salt, with a plain, salty taste. It is
mined rather than sourced from the sea. The best choice for
pickling, and for putting in a salt grinder. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Pickling onions, shallots, green beans, cauliflower, squashes,
gherkins, cucumbers, red cabbage, green walnuts.
Table salt
EAT All-purpose refined rock salt, milled to very small grains, with
anti-caking agents added to stop it clumping. It has a
straightforward salty taste. Use in a salt cellar and for general
cooking. Some brands have added iodine. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Meat, fish, vegetables, eggs, pastries, breads, biscuits.

Sea salt flakes

EAT Made in Maldon, Essex, for over 200 years. Famous for its lack
of bitterness and distinctive, fresh taste of the sea. It is strong, so
use sparingly. Scatter over griddled vegetables with a drizzle of
olive oil, over chips, or rub on the skins of jacket potatoes before
baking. Also available smoked. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS All meat, fish,
poultry, and vegetables (especially asparagus), aubergines,
courgettes, peppers, potatoes.
Fleur de sel sea salt
EAT The purest form of sea salt derived from the top layer formed
in salt pans. The Guérande area of France is famous for it. Use like
sea salt flakes and, again, sparingly, as it has a sharp, pure, salty
taste. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS All meat, fish, poultry, vegetables,
cheeses, grains, pulses, eggs.

Celery salt
EAT Ground celery seeds mixed with table salt. It is strong-
flavoured so use sparingly to season soups, stews, casseroles,
quail’s eggs, tomato, and cheese dishes. Good rubbed on the skin of
chicken or fish before grilling. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, fish,
tomatoes and tomato juice, cheeses, mayonnaise, soured cream,
yogurt.
Garlic salt
EAT Powdered dried garlic mixed with table salt. Use judiciously to
season soups, stews, casseroles, dips, and other dishes when not
using fresh garlic. Onion salt can be used in the same way.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Herbs, spices, chicken, meat, fish, cream
cheese, yogurt, soured cream, avocados, tomatoes, unsalted butter.
Honey, sugars, and syrups
BUY The darker the honey, sugar, and syrup,
the deeper the flavour. For honey, those high in
fructose stay runny, those with more glucose,
set. Choose “pure” honey. Multi-floral is
cheaper than a mono-floral (a single-blossom
one will be identified on the label). When using
sugar, select the right one for the job. Brown
sugars should be moist and soft. STORE Keep in
a cool, dry, dark place. Clear honey and syrups
may crystallize during storage; heat gently to
dissolve. Sugars, honey, and sugar syrups
(except corn) keep indefinitely. Fruit syrups will
keep for about a year. Corn syrup is lighter and
tends to ferment after around 6 months.
Clear honey
EAT Use in place of sugar in many recipes, but it is sweeter, so try
using less. Clear honey mixes easily, so good for drizzling,
dressings, glazes, sauces, and syrups. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS All
meats and poultry, vinegars, oils, tomato purée, garlic, shallots,
Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, mustard, nuts, yogurt, fruits,
rosemary, mint. IN SEASON June–August (depending on the
blossom), imported all year
Set honey
EAT Good in biscuits and cakes, to spoon on fruit, or spread on
meat or poultry as part of a glaze before baking. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Poultry, game, gammon, bacon, pork, lamb, figs,
pineapple, grapefruit, bananas, peanuts, walnuts, almonds. IN
SEASON June–August (depending on the blossom), imported all
year

Comb honey
EAT A piece of honey-filled beeswax comb is the most natural way
to eat honey. Don’t use it for cooking, but it is delicious raw for
breakfast or as a tea time treat. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Warm crusty
bread, toast, butter. IN SEASON June–August (depending on the
blossom)
Agave nectar
EAT Sweeter than honey and yet suitable for vegans, this syrup is
extracted from the agave plant, and is great poured over porridge
or used to sweeten smoothies. Be careful to choose the pure
variety. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Oats, banana, lime, cinnamon,
quinoa, sweet potato, chilli, mezcal and tequila, chocolate, coffee,
cornmeal.

Caster sugar
EAT A finer version of granulated sugar. White is refined sugar,
golden caster is unrefined. Use both for general sweetening,
frosting and candying, baking, and desserts. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
All fruit, nuts, tomatoes, chocolate, coffee, vanilla, eggs, cream,
crème fraîche, yogurt.
Icing sugar
EAT Finely ground refined sugar sometimes with anti-caking
agent. Use for icings, frostings, sweet butters, delicate sweets, and
to dust over cakes and desserts. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Citrus and
other fruits, eggs, vanilla, cinnamon, peppermint, almond,
chocolate, coffee, cream cheese, caramel, brandy, rum.

Demerara sugar
EAT Coarse crystal sugar traditionally used to sweeten coffee and
for baking rich fruit cakes. Some is coloured refined sugar, look for
unrefined. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Coffee, mixed dried fruits, apples,
pears, bananas.
Muscovado sugar
EAT Dark and light unrefined, moist sugar (dark shown here). Use
dark in rich fruit cakes, chutneys, and marinades; light in biscuits
and crumbles. Soft brown sugars are refined, with added molasses.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Fruits, vegetables, meats, sweet spices.

Jaggery and palm sugar

EAT Jaggery (shown here) is blocks of unrefined palm or cane
sugar. Palm sugar comes in blocks, sticky granules, or liquid.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Vegetables, meats, fish, tropical fruits, spices,
herbs.
Golden syrup
EAT Sticky cane or beet syrup with a distinctive flavour. Classic
ingredient of treacle tart and flapjacks. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Ginger, cinnamon, mixed spice, chocolate, butter, oats.

Blackstrap molasses
EAT Unrefined, almost black, thick, slightly bitter syrup for rich
cakes and chutneys. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Dried fruits, vegetables,
stone and orchard fruits, chillies, spices.
Black treacle
EAT Runnier than blackstrap molasses and slightly milder. Use in
the same way, but also good for treacle toffee, parkin, and
gingerbread. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Ginger, cinnamon, cloves,
nutmeg, mixed spice, allspice, nuts, oatmeal.

Corn syrup
EAT Available as light or dark syrup, similar to golden syrup with a
less distinctive taste. Use in the same way. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Ginger, cinnamon, mixed spice, chocolate, butter, oats.

Maple syrup
EAT Runny syrup from the sap of the maple tree, traditionally
served with pancakes and waffles. Maple-flavoured syrup also
available. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS American-style pancakes, waffles,
pineapple, bananas, nuts, chocolate, coffee.
Pomegranate syrup
EAT Thick, tangy, and sweet, also known as pomegranate
molasses. Use in sweet and savoury dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Duck, chicken, fish, pork, game, soy sauce, pak choi, courgettes,
salad leaves, tropical fruits.
Prepare spices

Before use, whole fresh spices such as lemongrass can be bruised

with the flat side of a heavy knife and your hand.

Roots like ginger can be finely chopped by hand, but it’s often
easiest to grate them. Peel off the skin beforehand.
Scraping out the seeds from chillies lessens their heat. Wear a pair
of rubber or plastic gloves to avoid irritation to your skin.

When spices are fried until lightly coloured, their flavour gets
trapped in the oil. The oil can then be used along with the spices.
To dry-roast spices, place them in an oven preheated to 160°C
(325°F/Gas 3), or fry them in a dry pan, until lightly browned.

Dried or dry-roasted spices can either be crushed by hand in a

pestle and mortar or by machine in a spice mill.
Prepare herbs

A mezzaluna makes light work of chopping herbs. Rock it from side

to side across them until they’re chopped to your liking.

To strip the leaves of herbs with woody stalks, simply run the
thumb and forefinger of one hand along the stalk.
For a classic soup flavouring, tie a sprig of thyme and parsley with
a bay leaf. You could also include sage or rosemary.

1 To chop the leaves of herbs with tender stalks like basil, and
avoid bruising them, roll the leaves together into a tight bunch.
2 Holding the bunch of leaves steady with one hand, slice across
them with a sharp chef’s knife to create fine shreds.

3 Using the knife in a rocking motion, chop the leaves finely,

turning them by 90 degrees halfway through.
Extract vanilla seeds

1 Vanilla pods can be used whole, but the seeds look especially
good in creamy desserts. To extract them, put the vanilla pod on a
board and using the tip of a sharp knife, cut along the length of the
pod.

2 Using the blunt side of a small knife or a teaspoon, scrape along

the inside of the pod to collect the sticky seeds. The empty pod can
then be used to flavour syrups and sugars.
Make lemon-zest julienne

1 Using a peeler, remove strips of the lemon zest, taking off as

little of the bitter pith as possible. Try to select unwaxed lemons
for this purpose, and always wash and dry the skin before you
begin.

2 If any pith remains, use a sharp knife to slice it off by running

your knife along the peel away from you. Then, using a rocking
motion with your knife, slice the peel into strips.
Use gelatine

1 Soak the required number of leaves of gelatine in enough cold

water, or other liquid, to cover them fully for at least 10 minutes.
Squeeze out as much of the water as possible before using.

2 In a saucepan, warm some water or whatever liquid is specified

in your chosen recipe. Add the gelatine, and stir to dissolve
thoroughly before leaving the solution to cool.
Make a sugar syrup

1 Heat your measured amount of sugar and water over a low heat
in a heavy-based pan, without stirring, until dissolved. Use a wet
pastry brush to wipe the pan edge to stop grains of sugar sticking.

2 When the sugar has dissolved, bring the syrup slowly to the boil
and boil for 2 minutes for basic syrup or to the correct temperature
for your recipe, using a sugar thermometer.
Make caramel sauce

1 Warm 100ml (31⁄2fl oz) liquid glucose in a heavy-based pan over a

low heat. Do not boil. Add 125g (41⁄2oz) caster sugar and heat gently
until dissolved, then boil until golden. Cool the base of the pan for
1 minute in iced water.

2 While the syrup is still warm, whisk in 25g (scant 1oz) unsalted
butter and 250ml (9fl oz) softly whipped cream. Return the pan to a
low heat and bring gently to the boil until the sauce is smooth,
thick, and creamy.
Make a ganache

1 Chop 100g (31⁄2oz) dark chocolate by placing it on a work surface

or chopping board. Select a knife with a serrated edge and use your
hand to press down on the blunt side of the blade.

2 Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering

(not boiling) water, ensuring the water does not touch the bowl.
Stir with a wooden spoon and add the chocolate to 100ml (31⁄2fl oz)
boiling double cream. Stir again gently from the centre.
Prepare chocolate

Break the chocolate and chill in the freezer for a few minutes. Place
on a board and, using a sharp knife, chop using a rocking motion.

For grating, rub chilled chocolate against the grater, using the
widest holes. If it begins to melt, put it back in the freezer and
repeat.
For curls, spread soft or melted chocolate onto a cool surface. Use
the blade of a chef’s knife to scrape the chocolate into curls.
Make professional glossy icing

1 Add 300g (10oz) chopped dark chocolate to a sugar syrup and stir
until smooth. Heat to 120°C (225°F) – the mixture should form a
“thread” if you dip your fingers in iced water, then the chocolate,
and pull apart.

2 Brush the cake with apricot jam melted with a little water.
Remove the icing from the heat and tap the pan to remove any air
bubbles. Ladle it onto the cake and smooth it out with a warmed
metal spatula.
Orchard fruits
BUY Choose fruit with no bruises. Brown
russeting on the skin of some fruit is normal.
Apples and Asian pears should smell fragrant.
Loquats may have a few brown spots and
should feel tender. Pears should give slightly at
the stem end. Quinces have a downy skin that
becomes smooth as they ripen (any left can be
rubbed off). Medlars have a brown, wrinkled
skin, and rarely ripen on the tree. Leave to
“blet” in a paper bag in a cool, dark place for
several weeks until soft. STORE Put in the fruit
bowl as required. Loquats and pears should be
eaten as soon as they are ripe. All can be
prepared and frozen for up to 12 months.
Cox’s Orange Pippin apple
EAT With scented, crisp, sweet flesh and mottled skin, Cox’s
apples can be used for cooking as well as eating raw, but are best
in salads. Good for juicing and drying. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS White
or red cabbage, walnuts, almonds, pine nuts, sunflower seeds,
fresh and dried fruits, celery, lovage, mayonnaise, vinaigrette,
ginger. IN SEASON August–February (best August–December)
Granny Smith apple
EAT Good all-rounder with green skin and sharp, crunchy flesh.
Use in pies, tarts, and cakes, for sauce, in fruit and savoury salads,
meat, fish, and cheese dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cinnamon,
mixed spice, cloves, walnuts, almonds, raisins, sultanas, cabbage,
cheeses, chicken, pork, duck, game, black pudding, cider, Calvados.
IN SEASON Imported all year

Red Delicious apple

EAT Large fruit with tough, crimson skin and sweet, crumbly flesh.
Not good for cooking. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS All cheeses, celery,
grapes, pork or duck pâté, nuts. IN SEASON Imported all year
Bramley apple
EAT Large cooking apple that cooks to a fluffy pulp. Best for pies,
sauce, baking, fritters, and all types of dessert. Good bottled or in
chutneys. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Citrus, almonds, berries, rhubarb,
pears, quinces, dried fruit, cinnamon, cloves, mixed spice, nutmeg,
vanilla, honey, syrup, demerara sugar, chocolate. IN SEASON All
year (best October–December)

Williams’ pear
EAT Tender, juicy, and slightly musky, good raw or for preserving.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Red wine, port, brandy, cinnamon, star anise,
cloves, ginger, wine vinegar, white and demerara sugar, maple
syrup, dried fruits. IN SEASON September–February, stored and
imported all year

Asian pear
EAT Peel, if wished, core and slice, or chop. Use in fruit and
savoury salads, spicy Asian dishes, or poach in syrup. In Japan they
eat them sprinkled with salt. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beef, papaya,
mango, lime, chilli, soy sauce, ginger, cardamom, star anise, rice
vinegar, honey. IN SEASON July–October, imported most of the
year

Comice pear
EAT Eat raw or cooked in crumbles, pies, and savoury dishes.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pork, duck, goose, apples, raisins, cinnamon,
cloves, ginger, walnuts, goat’s and blue cheeses. IN SEASON
September–March

Conference pear
EAT Good raw or cooked in sweet and savoury dishes. For cooking,
choose slightly under-ripe pears. Peel before use, if wished. Use
over-ripe fruit in sauces and smoothies. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Game, pork, Parmesan, blue cheeses, rocket, watercress, tarragon,
celery, walnuts, almonds, cinnamon, ginger, star anise, cardamom,
chocolate, butterscotch vanilla. IN SEASON September–February,
stored and imported all year
Loquat (níspero)
EAT Halve, remove stone, and scoop out flesh or poach in syrup.
Or peel, if liked, and quarter or chop for fruit for savoury salads,
sauces, ice cream, cake fillings. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Poultry,
prawns, goat’s cheese, vanilla ice cream, apples, pears, citrus,
ginger, spirits. IN SEASON Imported April–June

Medlar
EAT When bletted (ripened), peel back the skin and suck or spoon
out the flesh. Add pulp to a rich meat sauce or make into jelly,
curd, or cheese. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Meat, game, hard cheeses,
cinnamon, nutmeg, mixed spice, star anise, red or white wine. IN
SEASON October–November

Quince
EAT Peel, core, and chop for sauces and meat dishes, tarts, pies,
and crumbles. Purée for mousses and creams. Bottle or make into
jams, jellies, or cheese. Use japonica quinces in the same way.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Lamb, pork, chicken, game, hard cheeses
(particularly Manchego), apples, pears, ginger, cloves, cinnamon.
IN SEASON October–November
Stone fruits
BUY Plums, gages, and sloes should have a
slight bloom on the skin. They should all feel
heavy for their size, and firm, but give slightly
when gently pressed. They should never feel
squashy. Avoid if rock-hard (they may never
ripen), if split, wet, with any bruised patches, or
with wrinkled skin (except dates, which may be
semi-dried). STORE If a little firm, keep in a
fruit bowl. If ripe, they will keep for a few days
in the refrigerator in an open paper bag. All
except dates can be bottled or frozen in dry
sugar or syrup for up to 12 months.
Victoria plums
EAT The classic British dessert plum. Delicious raw, or cooked in
sauces, soufflés, pies, tarts, cakes, and puddings, or preserved as
jam or chutney. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Duck, lamb, pork, gammon,
goose, game birds, chilli, Chinese five-spice powder, ginger, soy
sauce, garlic, onions, pickling vinegar, almonds, cinnamon,
custard, cream, eggs. IN SEASON August–October
Red plums
EAT Various large red and purple varieties, mostly imported (Santa
Rosa pictured). Red have a better flavour for cooking than purple.
Eat fresh, in pies and crumbles, mixed with other fruit, diced in
salsas, or as plum sauce. Available canned, and dried as prunes.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Meat, game, avocados, tomatoes, red peppers,
cucumber, spring onions, chilli, coriander leaf, lime, garlic, ginger,
soy sauce, rice, vinegar, apples, pears, rhubarb, strawberries,
custard, clotted cream, ground almonds. IN SEASON Imported all
year

Yellow plums
EAT Large imported yellow plums are best raw. Smaller ones, like
Coe’s Golden Drop (pictured) are good in crumbles, sweet and
savoury salads, and salsas. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Sweet peppers,
spring onions, cucumber, light muscovado sugar, soft fresh
cheeses. IN SEASON Imported all year
Opal plums
EAT Sweet early-cropper. Good raw but excellent bottled whole in
alcohol, and for pies, clafoutis, and desserts. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Brandy, Kirsch, red wine, cream, clafoutis batter, light muscovado
sugar, butter, almonds. IN SEASON August–October

Greengages
EAT Sweet-scented fruit that can be used instead of plums in any
dish. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS All rich meats and game, ground and
flaked almonds, cinnamon, ginger, kirsch, amaretto, brandy,
cream, custard. IN SEASON August

Apricots
EAT Use the natural line on the fruit to cut in half and twist apart.
Eat raw as a snack, or in fruit salads or platters. Poach in syrup or
wine; purée for fruit sauce; or halve, stuff, and bake. Add to
tagines, couscous, roasts, and stuffings. Also available canned,
dried, and as jam. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, lamb, pork, ham,
yogurt, cream, custard, oranges, almonds, rice, ginger, vanilla,
sweet white wine, amaretto. IN SEASON July–August, imported
most of the year
Damsons
EAT Sharp even when ripe, but excellent in desserts, jams, fruit
cheese, soups, wine, and chutney. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Sultanas,
apple, garlic, light muscovado sugar, chilli, ginger, cinnamon,
pickling vinegar, red wine, ice cream, custard, blackberries. IN
SEASON August–September

Cherries
EAT Morello are sour cherries with a wonderful flavour for
cooking, particularly when preserved in alcohol or syrup and in
jam. Add sweet cherries whole or pitted to fruit salads, to decorate
and fill cakes or in cold and iced desserts. Bake both in pies, tarts,
clafoutis, and strudels. Use for soup, or in sweet and savoury
sauces. Also sold canned and bottled, in syrup, brandy, cherry
liqueur, and candied (glacé). FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Duck, game,
almonds, sweet spices, chocolate, citrus, fromage frais, yogurt,
brandy, Kirsch, grappa. IN SEASON June–August, sweet cherries
imported most of the year

Sweet cherries
 Sour cherries

Sloes
EAT Small black fruit of the blackthorn. Too sour to eat raw, but
good in jam and jelly and to flavour gin or vodka. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Juniper, cinnamon, vanilla, gin, vodka, apples. IN
SEASON October–November

Dates
EAT Medjool (pictured) is highly-prized. Eat raw, whole, or stuffed.
Chop and add to rice, couscous, stuffings, stews, and relishes. Also
available dried and as syrup. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Poultry, lamb,
bacon, cheeses, marzipan, nuts, clotted cream, yogurt, citrus,
chocolate. IN SEASON Imported most of the year, best November–
January
Peaches
EAT Flat donut, yellow- or white-fleshed can all be used in the
same way. Best skinned before eating. Halve and grill to garnish
savoury dishes; stuff and bake; slice or dice for fruit salads and
salsas; purée for ice cream, sorbets, and sauces; make into jam or
chutney. Also available canned and dried. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Beef, duck, soured cream, yogurt, passion fruit, mangoes, berries,
lime, mint, almonds, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, chilli,
Champagne, sherry, amaretto. IN SEASON August–September,
imported most of the year

Yellow-flesh peach
 Donut peach

White-flesh peach

Nectarines
EAT Similar to peaches (and used the same way) but with smooth
skin. Delicious raw with cold meats and in salads and salsas, but
also good stuffed and baked. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken,
gammon, prosciutto crudo, soft white cheeses like mascarpone,
walnuts, almonds, berries, chilli, cinnamon, vanilla, star anise. IN
SEASON August–September, imported most of the year
Yellow-flesh nectarine

White-flesh nectarine
Olives
BUY For best flavour, buy olives still with their
pits – loose or in jars. Pitted olives can be useful
for some dishes. In general look for plump,
shiny specimens, although dry salt-cured ones
are supposed to look shrivelled. STORE Always
keep in the refrigerator in sealed containers.
Loose ones, or those in salt or brine, should be
used within a week or so. Those covered in olive
oil will keep for months. If mould appears on
the surface, rinse, dry, and cover with fresh oil.
Manzanilla olives
EAT Large green, silky olives from Seville. Sold stuffed with
pimento, too. Traditionally served with chilled fino sherry; also the
perfect martini olive. Good sliced in fish, cheese, and pulse salads.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Dry fino sherry, gin, dry martini, shellfish,
chickpeas, white beans, chorizo, Serrano ham, squid, prawns, crab,
Manchego cheese. IN SEASON Imported all year

Kalamata olives
EAT From Greece, with a rich fruity flavour. Good with aperitifs, in
salads, and also cooked in stews and casseroles. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS White cabbage, tomatoes, cucumber, red onions, sweet
peppers, aubergines, feta cheese, halloumi cheese, red wine
vinegar, olive oil, oregano, preserved lemons, pork, chicken, lamb,
pasta, rice. IN SEASON Imported all year

Dry salt-cured olives

EAT Shrivelled and salty with a strong, olive flavour. Pit and chop,
then bake in bread, add to tapenade, pasta sauces, and meat
dishes (whole or pitted). FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beef, pork, lamb,
spicy sausages, pasta, olive oil, cherry and sun-dried tomatoes,
sweet peppers, basil, oregano, parsley. IN SEASON Imported all
year

Picholine olives
EAT Dusky green olives with a surprising amount of crisp, nutty
flesh. Delicious served as an aperitif, but also good chopped in
chicken, fish, and rabbit stews, and rice dishes. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Chicken, white and oily fish, rabbit, tomatoes, rice,
white wine, sherry, dry vermouth, peppers, white beans, oranges.
IN SEASON Imported all year

Stuffed green olives

EAT Small green olives are sold pitted and stuffed with pimento,
anchovy, lemon, garlic, capers, celery, or almonds. Serve as
appetizers or slice in salads. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Fish, meat,
poultry, cheeses, pasta, rice, peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic,
sweet spices, herbs. IN SEASON Imported all year

Niçoise
EAT Small and nutty from Provence, France but also grown in
Spain and Italy. Often preserved with herbs. Use in classics like
pissaladière and salade niçoise. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Tomatoes,
onions, garlic, anchovies, eggs, green beans, new potatoes,
courgettes, capers, caperberries, cinnamon, oregano, herbes de
Provence. IN SEASON Imported all year
Tropical fruits
BUY Most should give slightly when lightly
squeezed and have a fragrant aroma. Choose
bananas according to personal preference.
Avoid if soft and dark all over. All unripe fruit
can be ripened at room temperature. STORE
Ripe fruit should be eaten as soon as possible
after purchase. All except bananas (and
pineapples, unless prepared then put in an
airtight container) can be stored in a paper bag
in the refrigerator for a few days (bananas go
black if too cold). All except dragon fruit can be
frozen for up to 12 months as purée (bananas
discolour, so use for breads and cakes only and
use within 6 months), or in syrup. Freeze
passion fruit pulp in ice cube trays to add to ice
creams and fruit salads.

Kiwi
EAT Halve and spoon out for a snack. Peel and slice or dice for fruit
salads and salsas, to decorate pavlovas, pastries, and cakes, or as a
garnish. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Gammon, chicken, guinea fowl,
squid, salmon, chillies, orange, strawberries, other tropical fruit. IN
SEASON Imported all year, best January–August
Mango
EAT Peel and stone, then slice or chop for salads, salsas, or cakes.
Purée for juices, smoothies, sorbets, mousses, and cream. Slice and
bottle in syrup. Also available canned, dried, and as chutney.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, smoked meats, fish, shellfish, green
salads, avocados, lime, lemon, chillies, curry spices, coriander leaf,
vanilla ice cream, sweet sticky rice, rum. IN SEASON Imported all
year

Passion fruit
EAT Halve and spoon out the pulp to add to fruit salads and
desserts. Sieve to yield juice for dressings, ices, mousses, soufflés,
sauces, smoothies, and drinks. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Tuna, venison,
game birds, cream, yogurt, custard, oranges, kiwi fruit,
strawberries, bananas, peaches, light muscovado sugar, rum, white
and sparkling wine. IN SEASON Imported October–June
Papaya
EAT Peel, halve, and scoop out the seeds. Use in sweet and savoury
salads, salsas, and desserts. The purée is an excellent meat
tenderizer. When unripe, steam as a vegetable. Also available
canned and dried. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Meat, smoked meats,
avocados, chillies, lime, lemon, coconut, ginger. IN SEASON
Imported all year

Pomegranate
EAT Use the juicy seeds in sweet and savoury salads, salsas,
dressings, cold and iced desserts. Add the juice to soups, stews,
desserts, and sauces. Also available as syrup (molasses). FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Prawns, lamb, chicken, duck, pheasant, aubergines, figs,
almonds, pistachios, couscous, rice. IN SEASON Imported October–
February
Guava
EAT Add to sweet and savoury salads, purée for sauces, smoothies,
and pancake fillings, sorbets, and ice cream. Poach or bake for
compôtes, desserts, and savoury dishes. Also available canned and
dried. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pork, pheasant, duck, seafood, chicken,
cream cheese, apples, pears, lime, chillies, lemon, coconut, ginger,
honey. IN SEASON Imported all year

Persimmon (Sharon fruit)

EAT Eat whole, or cut off the top and scoop out flesh. Blend for
smoothies, add to sauces, cold and iced desserts. If unripe, poach
or chop and add to cakes, breads, and muffins. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Ham, pork, game, lime, clotted cream, yogurt, fromage
frais, walnuts, ginger, cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, honey. IN
SEASON Imported October–April

Pineapple
EAT Peel and slice or dice for savoury and sweet salads, salsas,
pastries, and desserts. Add pineapple juice to marinades, drinks,
and smoothies. Also available canned, candied, and dried.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pork, ham, chicken, duck, fish, shellfish,
cottage cheese, coconut, ginger, allspice, cinnamon, black pepper,
Cointreau, rum, Kirsch. IN SEASON Imported all year
Dragon fruit
EAT Do not cook. Best eaten chilled. Halve and scoop out the flesh.
Add to fruit salads, or press the juice for sorbets, cocktails, and
drinks. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Lime, lemon, other tropical fruits,
coconut, sugar, ginger. IN SEASON Imported all year
Red banana
EAT Small, plump, with creamy purple-pink flesh. Good eaten raw
in sweet and savoury salads. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, salad
leaves, rainbow trout, red fruits, pink grapefruit, sweetcorn, rice.
IN SEASON Imported all year

Yellow banana
EAT Standard banana for eating raw or cooked. Peel and slice for
sweet and savoury salads, purée for smoothies, bake or fry whole
or halved (good in batter), purée or chop for cakes, muffins, and tea
breads. Also available dried. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken
(especially fried), trout, cream, yogurt, custard, orange juice, lime,
coconut, walnuts, chocolate, coffee, ginger, light and dark
muscovado sugar, liqueurs, rum. IN SEASON Imported all year

Lady finger banana

EAT Tiny, sweet bananas to eat raw, deep-fry whole in batter as
fritters, sauté in butter as a garnish for fried chicken, or serve with
brown sugar and liqueur for dessert. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Butter,
corn fritters, bacon rolls, light muscovado sugar, rum, brandy,
Cointreau, coffee liqueur, cream, crème fraîche. IN SEASON
Imported all year

Plantain
EAT Peel, cut in chunks and boil, or roast hard plantains like
potatoes. Slice and fry or grill riper ones, or thinly slice for crisps.
Also available ready-fried as chips. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken,
fish, most meats, dried beans, honey, ginger, butter, sunflower oil,
chillies, coconut. IN SEASON Imported all year

Star fruit (carambola)

EAT Trim off any traces of brown from the ridges as they taste
bitter. Slice for fruit salads or as a garnish, poach in syrup, or
candy. Green fruit can be used as a vegetable. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Poultry, prawns, avocados, red peppers, other tropical fruits, lime,
coconut, lemongrass, nutmeg, vanilla, honey, rum, salt. IN
SEASON Imported October–December

Lychee
EAT Pop out of the shells for a snack. Stone and add to sweet or
savoury salads, sweet and sour dishes, and stir-fries. Poach in
syrup or purée for ice cream, smoothies, drinks, and dressings.
Also available canned. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pork, duck, chicken,
seafood, chillies, avocados, raspberries, coconut, cream, lime,
ginger. IN SEASON Imported April–June

Rambutan
EAT Peel and eat fresh, use as a garnish, add to savoury or fruit
salads, purée for ice cream or sorbet, or poach in syrup. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Pork, duck, avocados, chillies, cream, coconut, vanilla,
ginger. IN SEASON Imported May–September
Tamarillo
EAT Also called tree tomato. Cut in half, sprinkle with sugar, chill
overnight, then scoop out. Add to ice cream. Peel and stew in
savoury dishes and for relishes. Bake or grill for dessert, or add to
compôtes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Roast meats, fish, chicken, curry
spices, cream, kiwi fruit, oranges, light muscovado sugar. IN
SEASON Imported May–October

Mangosteen
EAT Cut off the top and scoop out the flesh; don’t eat the pith. Use
juice for drinks and sorbets. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Other tropical
fruits, strawberries, lemongrass, lemon. IN SEASON Imported
May–September
Durian
EAT Famous for tasting delicious, but smelling awful! Split open
and scoop out the pulp round the seeds. Eat with sugar and salt, or
purée for shakes and smoothies, or add to cakes. Cook unripe fruit
as a vegetable. Roast the seeds. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Milk, cream,
coconut, other tropical fruits, curry spices, chillies, sticky rice. IN
SEASON Imported May–August

Custard apple
EAT Remove the seeds and eat fresh, or use in pies, pancakes, stir-
fries, and savoury sauces. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pork, chicken,
citrus, yogurt, cinnamon, ginger. IN SEASON Imported June–
September
Physalis
EAT Peel back the papery casing and eat raw, or dip in chocolate or
fondant for petit fours. Poach in syrup, add to cakes and tarts,
sauté briefly for savoury dishes, use as a garnish or make into jam.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS White fish, scallops, yogurt, other tropical
fruits, nuts, lemon, tarragon, chocolate, Cointreau. IN SEASON
Imported August–October
Grapes, rhubarb, and figs
BUY All should be unblemished. Grapes should
have a slight bloom. Rhubarb stalks should be
firm. The leaves of forced rhubarb should be
pale yellow and fresh. Avoid if browning around
the stalk end or wrinkling. Figs should feel
heavy for their size and just yield without
pressing; sugar beads around the stem indicate
ripeness. STORE Keep in the refrigerator:
rhubarb for a week or more, wrapped in moist
kitchen paper in a plastic bag; grapes for up to 5
days in an open paper bag; ripe figs for a day or
two, but best eaten quickly. If unripe, soften at
room temperature. All can be frozen in syrup
for up to 12 months.
Red grapes
EAT A gourmet, seeded red variety is Muscat Rosada (pictured
here). They have a rich, musky flavour. All red grapes (some are
seedless) are best eaten fresh to round off a meal, or in fruit salads.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cheddar, Manchego, and Goat’s cheeses, port,
unblanched almonds, most fruits. IN SEASON Imported in spring

Green grapes
EAT With or without seeds, eat whole or peel, if liked, halve and
add to cream and white wine sauces, or to fruit salads. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Chicken, poultry livers, rabbit, flat fish, melon,
strawberries, cheeses, walnuts. IN SEASON Imported all year

Black grapes
EAT Good colour and flavour. Halve, deseed, if necessary, and add
to sauces and salads, or serve with cheeses, liver pâtés, and
terrines. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beef, venison, game birds, cheeses,
fruits, red wine, port. IN SEASON Imported all year.

Rhubarb
EAT Forced rhubarb is tender and pink. Outdoor is coarser and
may have tough skin. If so, pull off before cutting into short
lengths. Also sold frozen and canned. Use in pies, crumbles,
mousses, fools, ice cream, and sauces (particularly for oily fish).
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Ginger, cinnamon, vanilla, lavender,
strawberries, oranges, plums, brown sugar, custard, mackerel,
herring. IN SEASON Forced: February–April. Outdoor: April–July
 Outdoor rhubarb

Forced rhubarb

Fig
EAT Eat whole, including the skin if soft. Add to sweet and savoury
salads, stuff for sweetmeats, poach in syrup, bottle, or make into
jam. Also sold dried. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cured meats, yogurt,
cream, cheeses, nuts, star anise, marzipan, fortified wine. IN
SEASON August–September, imported May–December
Melons
BUY Winter and summer sweet melons and
watermelons should all feel heavy for their size.
Winter melons have smooth or finely ribbed
yellow rind and pale flesh. Summer ones
include those with a raised cross-hatch pattern
of netting on the rind and have green through
to orange flesh. They should yield to gentle
pressure round the base and smell fragrant.
Watermelons should give a ringing sound when
tapped. STORE Whole ones will keep in a cool
dark place for up to 2 weeks. Keep cut fruits in
a sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to
a week. Freeze balls or cubes in sugar or syrup
for up to 6 months.
Ogen
EAT Small summer melon with greenish-yellow skin and green
flesh. Good halved and the seeds scooped out, then filled for starter
or dessert. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Prawns, crab, lobster, ginger wine,
raspberries, framboise liqueur, sorbets, ice cream. IN SEASON
Imported all year
Honeydew
EAT The best known winter variety and the classic choice for
melon-boat starters. Good in salads, soups, and jam. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Parma ham, other cured and smoked meats, ground
ginger, orange, mint, rosemary, cucumber, herb bread. IN SEASON
Imported all year

Cantaloupe
EAT Summer melon with pale orange, very sweet flesh. Good for
breakfast or in salads. Note Galia (not pictured) looks similar, but is
oval and has light green flesh. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Coconut (fruit
and milk), lime, cucumber, mint, fresh cheeses like mozzarella. IN
SEASON Imported all year
Charentais
EAT The green ribs on the rind make it look like it comes ready-
sectioned. Apricot-orange flesh and delicious fragrance. Excellent
dessert summer melon, and good for sorbets and soup. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Tropical fruit, raspberries, strawberries, mint. IN
SEASON Imported all year

Watermelon
EAT Serve chilled in wedges, add to a fruit platter or cube for
salads and pickle, or make into jam. Roast and salt the seeds.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, prawns, crab, feta cheese, beetroot,
sweet melon, apple, berries, lime, chillies, ginger, mint. IN SEASON
Imported all year
Citrus fruits
BUY Look for skins that are bright, taut, and
glossy. Fruit should feel heavy for its size, and
should smell aromatic. Avoid any fruits that
look dry or mouldy, or have brown marks.
Unwaxed fruit are best if you want to use the
peel or zest. STORE Keep in a cool place, or
uncovered in the refrigerator, for up to 2 weeks;
use before the skins shrivel. Smaller fruits will
not keep as long as large ones. Freeze peeled
segments and slices, or whole small fruits, dry
or in syrup for up to 12 months.

Pomelo
EAT Delicious in salads and salsas, but make sure you remove all
the pith and membrane. Candy the goose-pimpled skin, or add it to
marmalade. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Shellfish, smoked fish, poultry,
ham, pork, chicory, frisée, celery, spinach, chocolate, cloves,
cardamom. IN SEASON Imported January–February

Grapefruit
EAT Halve or segment white, pink, or red grapefruit to eat alone or
in salads. Squeeze the juice for drinks, sorbets, and sauces. Grill
halves. Use in marmalade or candy the peel. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Chicken, gammon, smoked meats, prawns, avocados, spinach,
lemon, mint, ginger, nutmeg, coconut, honey. IN SEASON
Imported all year

Pink grapefruit

White grapefruit
 Red grapefruit

Lime
EAT Squeeze the juice for dressings, salsas, marinades, and drinks.
Use the juice and zest in desserts, pies, and baked goods. Also,
make into pickles, chutneys, jams, jellies, and marmalade. Also
available dried. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Poultry, fish, shellfish,
chillies, Tabasco, tomatoes, avocados, lemons, mango, melon,
papaya, chocolate, rum, tequila, mint, coriander leaf. IN SEASON
Imported all year

Lemon
EAT Squeeze the juice for dressings, marinades, drinks, tarts, pies,
soups, salsas, fish, curries, and emulsion sauces. Grate the zest for
baking and desserts. Add pared zest to casseroles. Chop for
marmalade and chutney. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, veal, fish,
shellfish, eggs, artichokes, garlic, olives, cream, sage, tarragon,
coriander leaf and seeds, capers, olive oil, gin. IN SEASON
Imported all year
Kumquat
EAT Not a true citrus, but used in similar ways in the kitchen. Eat
whole (including the soft skin) or cook with sugar, spices, or spirits
to make compôtes and chutneys, or bottle in alcohol. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Shellfish, smoked fish, poultry, ham, pork, duck,
chicory, frisée, celery, spinach, chocolate, cloves, cardamom,
vodka. IN SEASON Imported November–February

Minneola
EAT A mandarin–grapefruit hybrid with sharp, juicy, seedless
flesh. Eat as a refreshing snack or use in salads and desserts
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Shellfish, pork, duck, chicory, watercress,
celery, rocket, chocolate, cloves, star anise, Cointreau. IN SEASON
Imported December–February
Ugli
EAT A Jamaican cross between a tangerine, Seville orange, and
grapefruit. Halve and eat fresh, or segment and chop and add to
rich meats, oily fish, salads, ice creams, and soufflés. Candy the
peel. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Oily fish, pork, duck, goose, chicory,
frisée, rocket, cream, honey, Kirsch or sherry (over halves). IN
SEASON Imported November–April

Seville (bitter) oranges

EAT Used mostly for marmalade but also good with rich meats, in
spicy fish dishes, desserts, and to flavour white spirits. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Duck, pigeon, pheasant, pork, salmon, tuna, meaty
white fish, pancakes, rhubarb, meringue, lemon, grapefruit, gin,
vodka, white rum. IN SEASON Imported January–March
Yuzu
EAT This Japanese cross between a mandarin and a lemon is very
strongly perfumed, with exotic floral and spicy aromas. The juice
and finely grated zest is great whisked into granitas, cocktails, and
fruit curd, or made into marinades for fish, or stirred into a
stunning vinaigrette or mayonnaise. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Toasted
sesame oil, sake, oysters, sashimi, fried squid, crab, poultry, cream,
chilli, chocolate, ginger, butter, daikon, mirin, mango. IN SEASON
November–January

Sweet oranges
EAT Valencia, then Navel are the two leading commercial varieties.
Grate zest and segment fruit, or squeeze juice, for sauces, soups,
with other fruits and vegetables, in casseroles, salads, and sorbets.
Use the zest in cakes and biscuits. Also peel and eat raw, or poach
in caramelized syrup. Candy the peel and dip in chocolate.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beef, duck, gammon, liver, scallops,
tomatoes, beetroot, black olives, nuts, soy sauce, cloves, cinnamon,
fennel, carrots, chicory, frisée, button mushrooms, chocolate,
strawberries, brandy. IN SEASON Valencias: Imported February–
October. Navels: Imported November–May

Navel oranges

Valencia oranges

Blood oranges
EAT Small oranges with red-flecked flesh that yield a dazzling ruby
juice, essential for sauce maltaise – with egg yolks and melted
butter – and sorbets. Use the segmented flesh in sweet and savoury
salads. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Egg yolks, butter, baby red chard,
beetroot, spring onions, strawberries, raspberries, pineapple,
bananas, lemon, lime, walnuts. IN SEASON Imported December–
May
Clementine
EAT Peel for a snack or add to salads. Squeeze the juice for
smoothies and sorbets. Lightly sauté or grill segments as a side
dish. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Shellfish, pork, chicken, duck, spinach,
carrots, sweet peppers, salad leaves, almonds, coriander leaf,
chocolate, meringues, Grand Marnier. IN SEASON Imported all
year

Satsuma
EAT Slightly less sweet than clementines, satsumas can be used
the same way but are also good preserved whole in syrup and
caramel, with or without alcohol. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Caramel,
soft brown sugar, vanilla sugar, brandy, Grand Marnier, vodka,
whisky. IN SEASON Imported most of the year, best November–
January

Tangerine
EAT Tangerines are varieties of mandarin and have distinctively
fragrant, sweet, juicy flesh (Murcott, or honey tangerine, pictured
here). Use the zest and juice in desserts, sauces, and for sautéed
poultry, pork and fish, and the segments in fruit salads and
coleslaw. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken breasts, pork fillet and
chops, tuna, salmon, scallops, cabbage, carrots, shallots, cream,
honey. IN SEASON October–April
Currants and berries
BUY Choose fruit that are uniformly ripe and
unblemished. Avoid red or black fruits that are
still green in patches. Currants and berries do
not ripen further after picking. If buying in
punnets, avoid any that are stained with juice
as this is a sign that the fruit is past its best.
STORE Better eaten the day of picking or
purchase but can be stored in the refrigerator,
preferably in a single layer, for a couple of days.
Green gooseberries will keep for up to a week.
All can be bottled or frozen in dry sugar or
syrup for up to 12 months. They soften when
thawed so then only use for cooked dishes and
purées.
Redcurrants
EAT Small fragile berries with a tangy kick. Use for jelly, syrup, in
sprigs as a garnish to meat and game, and frosted with egg white
and caster sugar to decorate cakes and desserts. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Lamb, goat, venison, turkey, goose, duck, game birds,
berries, mint, cinnamon, red wine, port, brandy. IN SEASON July–
August, imported in summer
Whitecurrants
EAT Rarer than redcurrants, delicious for dessert on their own or
with berries, in jelly, and frosted with egg white and sugar to
decorate cakes and desserts. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Raspberries,
blueberries, white chocolate, rosemary (in jelly), lemon zest (with
sugar to eat raw). IN SEASON July–August

Blackcurrants
EAT Excellent for mousses, creams, pies, crumbles, cheesecake
toppings, fools, soups, jams, jellies, and cordial. They are very
sharp so need cooking and sweetening with sugar, honey, fruit
juice, or liqueur before eating. Available bottled, frozen, and
canned. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Mint, rosemary, orange, apples,
pears, honey, vodka, cassis, white wine, Champagne. IN SEASON
July–August, imported in summer
Gooseberries
EAT Green ones are sour. Cook with sugar or another sweetener for
pies, crumbles, fools, mousses, in jam, and as sauce (particularly
good with oily fish). The purple dessert variety is softer and
sweeter. Eat raw or cook as above. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Goose,
pork, mackerel, herrings, Camembert, cream, lemon, cinnamon,
cloves, dill, fennel, elderflowers, honey. IN SEASON June–August

Dessert gooseberries

Cooking gooseberries
Raspberries
EAT Many varieties. Eat raw for dessert, or purée for sauces, cold
and iced desserts, soup, and smoothies. Add to savoury and sweet
salads, tarts, pies, crumbles, summer pudding, and gâteaux. Use
for jam, jelly, and to flavour vinegar and sweetened alcohol.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Duck, goose, venison, game birds, chicken or
duck livers, cream, crème fraîche, peaches, other berries,
hazelnuts, meringue, almonds, oats, honey, vanilla, cinnamon, red
wine, vodka, raspberry vinegar. IN SEASON July–November,
imported all year

Wild strawberries
EAT Also known as fraises des bois, they are found wild and
cultivated (then called Alpine strawberries). Exquisite raw or as
part of a special dessert, for wonderful flavoured vinegar or
liqueur, or added to chilled still or sparkling wine. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Champagne, white or rosé wine, vodka, Cointreau,
cream, crème fraîche, eggs, custard, bitter chocolate, red wine or
strawberry vinegar. IN SEASON June–August

Strawberries
EAT Many varieties. Dip in melted chocolate, macerate in orange
juice or liqueur, top cheesecakes, add to tarts, pies, summer
pudding, gâteaux, and shortbread. Purée for coulis, cold and iced
desserts, shakes, and smoothies. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cream, ice
cream, curd and other soft white cheeses, cucumber, oranges,
melon, rhubarb, other berries, almonds, vanilla, chocolate, black
pepper. IN SEASON May–September, imported all year

Blackberries
EAT Wild and cultivated. Add to salads, compôtes, pies, and
crumbles. Use for jelly and flavoured vinegar. Purée for mousses,
soups, and sauces. Bottle in syrup. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Poultry,
game, cream, yogurt, cream cheese, apples, pears, raspberries,
almonds, oats, honey, vanilla, cinnamon. IN SEASON July–October,
imported all year

Rowanberries
EAT Gather after the first frosts, or pick when ripe and freeze for a
couple of weeks to remove the bitterness. Must be cooked before
eating. Use in sauces, pies, and crumbles, for jelly, wine, and
liqueur. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Lamb, mutton, goat, venison, poultry,
apples, pears, red wine. IN SEASON August–October

Loganberries
EAT Blackberry-raspberry hybrid with an intense flavour. Use in
pies, tarts, summer pudding, and for jam. Purée for ice cream,
sorbets, and smoothies. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Apples, pears,
bananas, rhubarb, cream, crème fraîche, soft white cheeses,
yogurt, almonds. IN SEASON July–September

Blueberries
EAT Serve as a snack or dessert alone, or with cereal for breakfast
or in fruit salad. Purée for soups and smoothies. Bake in pies, tarts,
crumbles, cobblers, cakes, and muffins. Stew for sweet and
savoury sauces, in compôtes, or cheesecake toppings. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Game, cream, crème fraîche, yogurt, citrus, almonds,
pistachios, mint, cinnamon, allspice, plain and white chocolate. IN
SEASON July–August, imported all year
Cranberries
EAT Stew with sugar or honey for sauces and desserts. Add to pies,
tarts, muffins, cakes, and parfaits as well as to pâtés, terrines, and
stuffings for poultry and meat. Bottle alone or with apples or other
berries. Make into jelly and jam. Also available frozen. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Turkey, goose, pork, gammon, oily fish, apples,
raspberries, blueberries, oranges, nuts, red wine, brandy, port. IN
SEASON Imported November–March

Mulberries
EAT Gather from the ground once they have dropped and are
completely ripe. Eat whole, or purée for drinks, cocktails, ice
cream, and sorbet. Make into jam or jelly, use to flavour vinegar,
gin, white rum, or vodka FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Poultry, lamb, game,
cream, pears, citrus. IN SEASON August–September
Elderberries
EAT The fruit must be cooked. Add to pies, crumbles, or compôtes
with other fruits, or purée for sauces and soups. Use to make
cordial, wine, jam, or jelly. (Use elderflowers to flavour
gooseberries, dip in batter as fritters, or to make cordial or
Champagne.) FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Game, pork, apples, crab
apples, strawberries, blackberries, lemon, walnuts, cinnamon,
allspice, nutmeg, cloves. IN SEASON August–October
Dried and candied fruits
BUY Look for plump, unblemished, supple dried
fruit (except banana chips, which are hard).
Avoid if they appear leathery. Most are now
sold ready-to-eat but check if they need soaking
before use. They are sometimes treated with
sulphur dioxide to preserve them further, or
may contain added sugar, oil, flavourings, or
additives. Check the labels. Candied fruit
should be soft and moist. Available all year.
STORE Once a packet or pot is opened, place in
an airtight container and store in a cool, dark,
dry place. Dried fruits will keep for 6 months,
candied fruit for a year.
Raisins and sultanas
EAT Raisins are dried black grapes (pictured). Black manuka and
muscatels have the best flavour. Sultanas are dried white grapes.
Eat as a snack, add to breakfast cereals, in rice and couscous
dishes, salads, tagines, curries, cakes, biscuits, muffins, puddings,
and chutneys. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cinnamon, mixed spice, curry
spices, coriander leaf, parsley, mint, oats and other grains,
cabbage, honey, rum, cream, most fruits, chocolate, nuts.
Dried cranberries
EAT Often sweetened when dried. Add to breakfast cereals, cakes,
biscuits, muffins, sweet or savoury stuffings. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Oats, wheat, barley, millet, rice, breadcrumbs, turkey, duck, goose,
pork, chicken, pine nuts, rosemary, thyme, parsley, onions, honey,
maple syrup.

Dried blueberries
EAT Add to breakfast cereals, cakes, biscuits, muffins, trail mix,
sweet and savoury salads. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS White and plain
chocolate, vanilla, cinnamon, oats, rice, couscous, pistachios,
almonds, walnuts, honey.

Dried cherries
EAT Sour cherries are delicious as a snack, or add to breakfast
cereals, puddings, pies, muffins, and ice cream. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Almonds, oats and other grains, white soft cheeses,
cream, Kirsch, amaretto, plain chocolate.
Currants
EAT Dried small black grapes with an intense, slightly bitter
flavour. Use alone or with other dried fruits for cakes, puddings,
biscuits, and pastries. Also good in hot and cold rice and couscous
dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Brown and white sugars, honey, soft
white cheeses, other dried fruits, ginger, cinnamon, mixed spice,
cardamom, cumin, turmeric, peas, apples, pears, citrus, mint,
parsley, rosemary, coriander seed and leaf, basil.

Dried mango
EAT They have a vibrant colour and chewy texture. Delicious as a
snack. Chop and add to cakes, biscuits, tea breads, chutney, and
jam. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Coconut, lime, lemon, apples, pears,
peaches, nectarines, strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, vanilla,
ginger.
Dried peach
EAT Eat for a snack, soak or poach in wine, fruit juice, or syrup, or
chop and add to cakes, biscuits, desserts, savoury and fruit salads,
and casseroles. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Other dried fruits, hard
cheeses, soft blues like Gorgonzola, mozzarella, feta, halloumi,
ham, duck, game birds, rice.

Dried dates
EAT Available whole or ready-chopped for baking. Pit whole ones
and stuff with marzipan or walnuts and honey for a sweetmeat,
chop and add to stuffings, cakes, tea breads, biscuits, breakfast
cereals, puddings, relishes, and sauces. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Marzipan, walnuts, honey, fruit syrup, golden syrup, molasses,
ginger, sweet spices, cooking apples, pears, chocolate.
Dried apricot
EAT Some need soaking before use. Eat as a snack, or add whole,
halved, or chopped to casseroles and tagines, stuffings, couscous
and rice dishes, sweet and savoury salads, desserts, cakes, biscuits,
muffins, pies, and tarts. Unsulphured apricots have a brown colour
and more intense flavour. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cinnamon, star
anise, nutmeg, curry spices, almonds, brazil nuts, pistachios,
walnuts, lamb, pork, chicken, turkey, goose, duck, game, soft
cheeses, yogurt, cream, citrus.

Dried pear
EAT Eat as a snack, or poach in wine, cider, fruit juice, or syrup.
Chop and add to sweet and savoury salads, and serve with cheeses.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Blue and sage-flavoured cheeses, Cheddar,
walnuts, bananas, rice, pasta, peas, mushrooms, ice cream,
custard.
Prunes
EAT Dried plums, with or without stones. Some need soaking
before use (cold tea is good). Eat as a snack, or wrap in bacon or
pancetta and grill. Add whole, chopped, or puréed to soups, sauces,
stews and casseroles, in stuffings, sweet and savoury pies, hot and
cold desserts. Also available canned. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken,
rabbit, pork, beef, venison, game birds, bacon, cheeses, spinach,
other dried fruit, pears, apples, yogurt, cream, custard.

Dried apple
EAT Nibble raw, add to casseroles and compôtes, soak and bake as
a garnish with rich meats. Apple chips are excellent added to
breakfast cereals. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pork, duck, goose,
pheasant, honey, maple syrup, redcurrant jelly, cider, apple juice,
dried pears, hard cheeses.

Dried banana
EAT Slices are often coated with sugar or honey. Eat as a snack
alone or with nuts, scatter on breakfast cereals, crush and add to
biscuits. Small, whole, dried, brown, chewy bananas also available.
Eat these as a snack, or chop and add to cakes, muffins, tea breads,
stews, soufflés, and dried fruit salads. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Yogurt,
soft white cheeses, oats and other grains, walnuts, coconut,
hazelnuts, other dried fruits, ginger, cinnamon, brandy.

Dried fig
EAT Intense flavour. Eat as a snack or stuff for sweetmeats. Chop
and add to hot and cold desserts, cakes, biscuits, tea breads, and
shortbreads. Use in stuffings or casseroles with poultry and game
birds. Soak and stew whole in syrup with or without alcohol and
sweet spices. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pork, chicken, duck, goose,
game birds, sausages, cheeses, fennel, rum, cider, Pernod,
marzipan, star anise.

Candied peel
EAT Chopped, mixed, diced, or sliced candied peel is used in rich
fruit and plainer cakes, biscuits, florentines, tea breads, and
steamed puddings, particularly Christmas pudding. Candied citron
peel is moist and sticky. Chop and use in cakes, marmalades, fruit
relishes, jam, and as a sweetmeat. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Angelica,
glacé cherries, other dried fruits, chocolate, cinnamon, mixed
spice, ginger, nutmeg, mace.
 Chopped mixed peel

Citron peel

Dried coconut
EAT Available sweetened and unsweetened, as shavings (chips),
flakes, and shredded (desiccated). Use in baking, curries, breakfast
cereals, cakes, biscuits, tuiles, or toppings for baked goods.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Curry spices and spice pastes, pulses, all
meats, poultry, fish, dried fruits, tropical fruits, cherries, citrus,
oats and other grains, rice, noodles, cream.

Desiccated coconut
Flaked coconut
Nuts and seeds
BUY Nuts are available in shells, or shelled
whole, flaked, chopped, or ground, depending
on variety. Buy nuts and seeds in smallish
quantities as they have a high fat content so
can go rancid. When buying in their shells, they
should feel heavy. If light they may be rotten.
Shake a coconut; you should hear the water
inside. Avoid chestnuts and coconuts with any
signs of mould or cracks. Seeds generally need
no preparation, but both nuts and seeds can be
toasted before use to enhance the flavour, or
soaked for nutritious sprouting varieties. Look
out for nut butters too. STORE Nuts in their
shell will keep for several months. Keep ready-
shelled nuts and seeds in airtight plastic or
glass containers, in a cool, dark place and use
within a few weeks.
Almonds
EAT Available in shell or shelled, unblanched or blanched (raw, or
roasted and salted), slivered or flaked, chopped, and ground. Eat
whole as a snack, or in some baked dishes and salads. Use
processed ones in cakes, biscuits, petits fours, meringues, pastries,
desserts, praline, almond paste (marzipan), stir-fries, sauces,
stews, and curries. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Lamb, chicken, trout,
honey, chocolate, apricots, cherries, plums, peaches, nectarines,
dried fruits. IN SEASON Imported in shell October–January
Brazils
EAT Excellent for snacks. Good chopped or ground in stuffings,
biscuits, cakes, and confectionery. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bananas,
dried fruits, chocolate, toffee, maple syrup, molasses. IN SEASON
Imported in shell October–January, shelled all year

Macadamias
EAT Highly prized roasted and salted as a snack with drinks, or
add chopped to biscuits, cakes, pastries, confectionery, ice cream,
sweet and savoury salads, and stuffings. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Chicken, white fish, bananas, toffee, coconut, chocolate, maple
syrup. IN SEASON Imported shelled all year
Cashews
EAT A popular nibble, roasted, with or without salt, with drinks.
Add raw whole or chopped in stir-fries, curries, stews, casseroles,
sweet and savoury salads, biscuits, and confectionery. Grind for
nut butter; also available ready-prepared. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Chicken, beef, white fish, sweetcorn, chilli, smoked paprika, star
anise, Thai curry pastes, lemongrass, galangal, ginger, orange,
lime. IN SEASON Imported shelled all year

Pistachios
EAT Roasted and salted in their shell, they are a popular nibble
with drinks. Use blanched unsalted in desserts, cakes, biscuits,
sweet pastries, ice cream, sweet sauces, in rice and couscous
dishes, pâtés and terrines, sausages, and as a pretty garnish.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, fish, pork, veal, chocolate, vanilla,
raspberries, blueberries, meringues, rice. IN SEASON Imported,
with and without shells, all year
Hazelnuts and cobnuts
EAT Hazelnuts are the original wild variety, cobnuts are cultivated.
Eat as a snack, or blanch and add whole, chopped, or ground to
cakes, biscuits, meringues, sweet and savoury stuffings, pâtés,
terrines, and salads. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Game birds, fish, pork,
liver, apples, plums, raspberries, cinnamon, coffee, chocolate,
cream cheese. IN SEASON Green: August. Brown: September–
October, imported shelled all year

Cobnuts

Hazelnuts
Coconut
EAT Coconuts are not, technically, nuts but fruit. Snack on fresh
chunks, drink the water. Grate fresh to add to cereals, salads,
desserts, ice cream, sweetmeats, curries, biscuits, and cakes.
Infuse the flesh to make coconut milk and cream, which is also
available canned and powdered. The flesh is also available dried.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, shellfish, yogurt, chilli, curry spices,
Thai curry pastes, rice, citrus, tropical fruits, cherries, vanilla,
jaggery. IN SEASON Imported all year

Pine nuts
EAT Use extensively in sauces, sweet and savoury salads, roasts,
bakes, soups, stews, stuffings, biscuits, cakes, pastries, and
desserts. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, fish, spinach, aubergines,
basil, mint, coriander leaf, cinnamon, vanilla, rice, couscous,
bulgur, chocolate, honey. IN SEASON Imported shelled all year
Chestnuts
EAT They have a high tannin content so should not be eaten raw.
Roast in their shells, add whole or chopped in stuffings, casseroles,
and braises, or with vegetables, or purée for soups, pastries, and
desserts. Also available shelled and vacuum-packed, frozen and
canned whole, puréed (sweetened and unsweetened), and candied.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, turkey, game birds, venison,
sausagemeat, Brussels sprouts, onions, nutmeg, vanilla, cinnamon,
chocolate. IN SEASON September–December

Pecan nuts
EAT Good raw, halved, or chopped, in breads, biscuits, muffins,
cakes, pies, pastries, confectionery, ice cream, and in savoury
dishes. Serve salted or spiced with drinks. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Chicken, turkey, game birds, eggs, sweet potato, bananas, pears,
cinnamon, maple syrup, chocolate, coffee. IN SEASON Imported in
shell October–March, shelled all year
Peanuts
EAT Seeds of a legume, not nuts but used in the same way, raw or
roasted and, salted as a snack, ground to a paste for peanut butter,
or in sauces, soups, stews, curries, stir-fries, noodle dishes, and for
biscuits, cakes, trail mix, and confectionery. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Spring onions, wasabi, chilli, peppers, egg and rice noodles, sesame
seeds, chocolate, caramel, light muscovado sugar, hard and soft
cheeses. IN SEASON Imported all year

Walnuts
EAT Sold in their shells and shelled halves and broken pieces. Add
halves or chopped to breakfast cereals, salads, snack mixes,
stuffings, breads, cakes, pastries, and to decorate sweetmeats.
Grind for soups and sauces. Pickle green ones. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Coffee, chocolate, bananas, pears, dried fruits, cream, blue
cheeses, celery, apples, cabbage. IN SEASON Green June–July, dried
September–January, imported shelled all year
 Green walnut

Dried walnut

Sunflower seeds
EAT Enjoy raw, or toasted and salted, as a snack, on their own, or
as part of a trail mix. Use raw or toasted to add flavour and texture
to breakfast cereals, porridge, salads, sandwiches, bread, cakes,
biscuits, pasta, and rice dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Oats, barley,
rye, millet, rice, couscous, grated root vegetables, dried fruits,
tropical fruits, honey, maple syrup, pomegranate syrup. IN
SEASON Imported all year
Linseeds
EAT Available as dark brown, reddish brown, or golden seeds. Use
whole or cracked to add texture and colour. Grind or use the oil for
maximum nutritional benefits. Add to porridge, breakfast cereals,
flapjacks, biscuits, and bread. Use ground in smoothies. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Oats, rye, rice, couscous, potatoes, almonds, dried fruits,
honey, golden or corn syrup, mixed spice. IN SEASON All year

Sesame seeds
EAT Used all over the world in sweet and savoury dishes. Add to
rice and noodles, to coat foods before frying, sprinkle over salads
and vegetables, add to salads, vegetables, breads, biscuits, pastries,
and sweetmeats. Sesame seed paste (tahini) is used in dips, sauces,
and dressings, in baking and sweetmeats. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Chicken, fish, peanuts, chickpeas, spinach, carrots and other root
vegetables, noodles, rice, parsley, mint, coriander leaf, chilli,
honey, lemon, lime. IN SEASON Imported all year
Pumpkin seeds
EAT Enjoy as a snack, toasted and salted, or spiced. Add raw or
toasted to breakfast cereals, salads, stir-fries, pasta and rice dishes,
cakes, biscuits, and breads. You can use seeds straight from the
squash, fresh, or dry-roasted first. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Oats,
barley, wheat, apricots, pumpkin, chilli, cinnamon, ginger, maple
syrup. IN SEASON Imported all year
Peel and prepare apples

1 Remove the core of an apple by pushing a corer straight into the

stalk of the apple and through to the bottom. Twist gently and
loosen the core, then pull it out with the corer.

2 Using a peeler or small paring knife, gently remove the skin of

the apple (and as little of the flesh as possible) by making a circular
path around the fruit from top to bottom.
3 Place the cored apple on its side and hold it steady against a
clean cutting board. Using a sharp knife, slice down through the
apple. Repeat, making slices of an even thickness.

4 To chop: after slicing, stack the rings, a few at a time. Slice down
through the pile, then repeat crossways in the opposite direction,
making pieces of about the same size.
Cut a pineapple

1 With a sharp knife, cut the top and the base from the pineapple.
Stand the pineapple upright and cut off the skin in strips from top
to bottom. With a small paring knife, gouge out the brown “eyes”.

2 To make the rings, turn the pineapple sideways and cut it into
slices of an even thickness. Then use a round metal cutter to
remove the hard, fibrous centre of each ring.
3 Quarter the fruit by cutting from plume end to base, then cut
lengthways to remove the core at the centre of each piece.
Beginning at the plume end, cut along between the flesh and the
skin.

4 Hold the pineapple steady and cut the flesh crossways against
the skin, making slices of an even width. Repeat the process,
cutting the other quarters into slices.
Segment citrus fruit

1 With a sharp knife, cut off the top and bottom of the fruit so it
can stand upright. Holding it firmly with a fork, slice down and
around the flesh, following the contour of the skin. Try to remove
as much of the bitter white pith as possible.

2 With one hand, hold the peeled fruit steady on the board, while
you use a sharp knife to slice along the lines of the membrane
which separates each slice. Repeat slicing between each membrane
to remove the segments.
Prepare a mango

1 Standing the mango on its side, cut it by running your knife just
to one side of the stone; repeat the cut on the other side, so that a
single slice remains with the stone encased.

2 With the halves flesh-side up, cut the flesh into strips
lengthways, then crossways, cutting to, but not through the skin.
Invert the skin to expose the flesh. Run your knife along the skin to
remove the segments.
Peel soft fruit

1 Starting at the base, make a shallow cut just through the skin.
Then repeat the cut in the opposite direction to make an “x”. Don’t
let your knife pierce the delicate flesh.

2 Place the fruit in a heatproof bowl and pour over boiling water,
then using a slotted spoon, transfer the fruit to a bowl of cold
water. When cool, remove the fruit from the water and pull the
skin from the flesh.
Eggs
BUY Hen’s eggs are sold graded according to
weight, from small to extra large. Terms used to
describe how laying birds are reared is
confusing. “Farm fresh” and “barn” eggs have
been reared in large industrial units with little
or no space to move. “Free range” means the
birds have an outside area to scratch around in.
”Organic" means they are kept free-range and
fed an organic diet. Avoid if cracked or dirty.
STORE Eggs should be stored below 20°C (68°F)
so are best kept in the refrigerator. It is best to
freeze eggs and yolks separately in ice cube
trays for easy measuring. Yolks need to be
beaten with a pinch of salt or sugar to stabilize
first (note which on a label!). Freeze for up to 6
months.

Hen
EAT Boil, coddle, poach, fry, scramble, make into omelettes, or
bake. Use whole for batters, to bind meat, fish, vegetable, or rice
mixtures, in cakes, breads, and muffins. Hard-boil for salads, rice
dishes, to stuff, or sieve for garnish. Use yolks for glazing, to enrich
sauces, biscuits, and pastries, for mayonnaise, hollandaise, and
custards. Use whites for glazing, meringues, soufflés, mousses, and
ice creams (sometimes with the yolks added separately), or to
clarify consommé. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cheese, cream, bread, rice,
spices, herbs, most fruit and vegetables, potatoes, fish, sausages,
cured meats. IN SEASON All year
Duck
EAT Larger than hen’s eggs, they have large, rich yolks and the
whites are watery but protein-rich, giving great volume when
whisked for meringues, soufflés, and mousses. Coddle rather than
boil or they become tough. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS As hen’s but
particularly good with light muscovado sugar and vanilla (for
brown sugar meringues), hard cheeses (for soufflés), chocolate,
citrus or soft fruits (for mousses). IN SEASON All year

Goose
EAT A seasonal delicacy, these large eggs (each one equivalent to 3
hen’s eggs) have a strong flavour. Great for scrambled eggs,
Yorkshire pudding, and intensely rich sponge cakes. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Butter, smoked salmon, bacon, sausages, sage, onions,
tomatoes, vanilla, chocolate, coffee, citrus. IN SEASON February–
August

Quail
EAT Tiny, delicately flavoured eggs. Delicious soft- or hard-boiled
in salads, fried, or poached and served on tiny croûtes for an
appetizer, as mini Scotch eggs, stuffed, or pickled. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Asparagus, smoked fish, shellfish, caviar, sausagemeat,
Parmesan, celery salt. IN SEASON All year
Dairy
BUY The mainstays for every cook. You may
prefer sheep’s, buffalo’s, nut, rice, oat, or soy
alternatives. Not all are as stable as dairy
produce for cooking, so check the labels. Buy in
usable quantities. STORE Unless UHT-treated,
keep in the refrigerator and use within a few
days. Freeze milk and commercial yogurt for up
to 1 month (it may separate so, when thawed,
thoroughly shake milk, or stir yogurt). Whip
double cream partially or fully, then freeze for
up to 3 months. Single cream won’t freeze.

Cow’s milk
EAT Available whole (full-fat), semi-skimmed, or skimmed. Use
according to preference in sauces, soups, batters, egg dishes, hot
drinks, shakes, and to poach fish. For some rich custard dishes and
milk puddings, whole milk is preferable. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Cheeses, most vegetables, herbs, vanilla, cinnamon, chocolate, soft
fruits, tropical fruits, grains, bread, honey.
Pouring cream
EAT Single has a low fat content, not suitable for whipping or
boiling (it will curdle). Stir in at the end of cooking or swirl to
garnish soups or desserts on plates. Whipping and double cream
are all-purpose, but double is thicker and better for cooking.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS most vegetables, fish, meat, poultry, game, all
fruits, chocolate, coffee, all sugars and honey, vanilla, rosemary,
bay, lavender.

Clotted cream
EAT Traditional West Country cream, made by heating cow’s
cream. Rich, crusty, and sweet with a high fat content. Serve with
desserts, or with scones, and add to toffee, fudge, and ice cream.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS White and muscovado sugars, fruit and plain
scones, raspberry or strawberry jam, fresh fruit, apple pie, mince
pies, Christmas pudding, chocolate desserts, vanilla.
Crème fraîche and soured cream
EAT Both are cream with lactic acid added. Soured cream is lower
in fat and should be added at the end of cooking. Crème fraîche
can be cooked (not the half-fat variety). Serve on or in soups, in
dressings, sauces, dips, spicy dishes, flans, tarts, desserts, cakes,
and with fruit. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Herbs, spices, beef, pork,
chicken, fish, vegetables, eggs, honey, golden syrup, berries, stone
fruits, chocolate.

Yogurt
EAT Plain yogurt can be set, no-fat (not good in cooking), low-fat,
whole-milk, or strained (Greek-style, often with added cream). Use
for breakfast with fruit, in smoothies, or on breakfast cereals, in
soups, curries, sweet and savoury baked dishes, desserts, scones,
tea breads, dips, and marinades. Buttermilk (milk with lactic acid
added) can be used for baking and sauces instead of yogurt.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Lamb, beef, pork, chicken, fish, most
vegetables, parsley, mint, chives, celery seeds, spices, fruits,
cheese, eggs.
Butter
EAT Available salted and unsalted (unsalted allows total control
over the salt content of the dish). Use for its flavour and texture in
everything from sauces to baking. When using for frying, add a
dash of sunflower or olive oil to prevent burning. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Eggs, white wine vinegar, citrus, herbs, garlic, all
vegetables, meat, fish, poultry, game, pulses, cheeses, fruit, breads,
crackers, scones, honey, jams, marmalades.
Cheeses
BUY There are, of course, hundreds of cheeses
available, many that are delicious cooked, but
we have only selected some of the most popular
used for culinary purposes here. All cheese
should look and smell fresh. Best to buy pieces
freshly cut, when possible. Buy in quantities
you can use quickly, but hard cheeses will keep
much longer than fresh. STORE Keep each
cheese separately, well-wrapped, in a sealed
container with room to “breathe”, in the
refrigerator. Freeze full-fat fresh soft cheeses
for up to 3 months (don’t freeze low-fat
varieties); hard, blue, and other soft cheeses for
6 months.
Cheddar
EAT Choose a well-flavoured farmhouse one for cooking. Use in
sandwiches, sauces, soufflés, salads, quiches, melted over
potatoes, grated over vegetable dishes, and grilled. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Crusty bread, pickles, chutneys, tomatoes, celery,
beetroot, onions, apples, chillies, nuts, sage.
Grana Padano and Parmesan
EAT Grana Padano (pictured) and Parmigiano Reggiano (Parmesan)
are both hard and grainy with complex, salty flavours. Parmesan is
considered superior. Freshly grate or shave over pasta, griddled
vegetables, and salads, stir into risottos and soups, use to flavour
pesto, or nibble to round off a meal. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pasta,
ravioli, risotto rice, olive oil, butter, sage, basil, parsley, rosemary,
garlic, pine nuts, balsamic vinegar, walnuts, pears.

Pecorino
EAT A grainy, salty sheep’s milk cheese. Use instead of Parmesan
or Grana Padano. Particularly good with tomato-based sauces for
pasta. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Tomatoes, sun-dried tomatoes, onions,
garlic, prosciutto, oregano, basil, white beans, pasta, olive oil.

Gruyère
EAT One of many sweet, nutty, smooth-textured melting cheeses.
Use for fondues, with pasta, gratins, salads, and sauces. Good
mixed with other melting cheeses too. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Crudités, Kirsch, white wine, potatoes, cauliflower, spinach,
onions, garlic, tomatoes, leeks, crusty bread.

Gorgonzola
EAT Smooth with a sweet, spicy tang. Use in salads, sauces, dips,
mousses, soufflés, tarts, risottos, and on pizzas. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Watercress, squashes, leeks, tomatoes, spinach, nuts,
fruits, prosciutto, steaks, chicken.

Stilton
EAT It mellows with age. Enjoy to round off a meal, or in soups,
dressings, sauces, or potted. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Red wine, port,
walnuts, celery, fennel, leeks, potatoes, beetroot, squashes, cream,
crème fraîche, unsalted butter, honey, sunflower oil, steaks,
chicken, grapes, figs, orchard fruits.
Mozzarella
EAT Buffalo mozzarella is the best, although it can also be made
from cow’s milk. Use for salads, to top pizzas, and with pasta.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Tomatoes, avocados, artichokes, olives,
Parmesan, basil, oregano, sage, rosemary, mushrooms, prosciutto,
spicy sausages, bacon, olive oil, balsamic vinegar.

Feta
EAT Made with goat’s or sheep’s milk, crumbly, salty, and fresh. It
does not melt completely when heated. Crumble or dice for salads,
in stuffings, on vegetables, with olives as an appetizer. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Lamb, chicken, tomatoes, onions, cucumber, cabbage,
lettuce, aubergines, courgettes, broad beans, olives, olive oil,
oregano, mint, thyme, watermelon.
Halloumi
EAT With the unique quality of being able to stand up to char-
grilling without melting, halloumi’s bouncy texture is lovely
griddled or barbecued and served with a watermelon salad, or
stuffed inside a burger bun with sweet chilli sauce, or paired with
lentils and a citrus dressing. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pomegranate
molasses, lemon, green chilli, beetroot, chilli, tomatoes, cucumber,
aubergine, harissa, orange, watermelon, bell peppers, mint, red
onion, olives, courgette.

Mascarpone
EAT Smooth, rich, and creamy – the classic cheese for tiramisu.
Also use for cheesecakes, with cream to fill gâteaux or accompany
fruit, in pâtés, sweet and savoury stuffings, and pasta sauces.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Tomatoes, artichokes, wild mushrooms,
beetroot, stone fruits, berries, citrus, ginger, coffee, chocolate,
coffee liqueur, brandy, amaretto.
Ricotta
EAT Soft whey cheese with a touch of acidity and a delicate
lemony aroma. Use in baked pasta dishes, sweet and savoury
stuffings, and creamy desserts. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Spinach,
peppers, mushrooms, tomatoes, red onions, basil, sage, chilli,
berries, stone fruits, figs, fresh dates, bananas, citrus, chocolate,
coffee, honey, nutmeg, cinnamon.
Test an egg for freshness

FRESH To test if an egg is fresh, gently drop it into a glass of cold

water. A really fresh egg will lie in a horizontal position at the
bottom.

BORDERLINE If, after settling, the egg begins to rise in the

water at one end, it is not completely fresh, but can still be used.
STALE If the egg bobs up towards the surface of the water in a
vertical position, it is stale and should be discarded.
Separate yolks and whites

1 Break the eggshell by tapping it against the rim of the bowl.

Insert your fingers into the break, and gently pry the two halves
apart. Some of the white will escape into the bowl. Remove any
shell that falls in too.

2 Gently shift the yolk back and forth between the shell halves,
allowing the white to fall into the bowl. Take care to keep the yolk
intact. Place the yolk in another bowl and set aside.
Whisk egg whites

1 Place the egg whites in a metal or ceramic bowl that is clean,

free of any traces of grease, and completely dry. Begin whisking
them slowly, using a small range of motion.

2 Continue whisking steadily, using larger strokes, until the whites

lose their translucency and start to foam. The aim is to incorporate
as much air as possible to make the whites expand and increase in
volume.
3 Continue incorporating as much air as possible, increasing your
speed and range of motion until the whites have expanded to the
desired degree and are stiff, but not dry.

4 Test by lifting the whisk away; the peaks should be firm but
glossy, and the tips should hang. Take care not to overwhisk the
egg whites, or the air bubbles that have formed will collapse.
Soft- and hard-boil eggs

SOFT-BOIL EGGS The whites should be set and the yolks

runny. Use a pan large enough to hold the eggs in a single layer.
Cover them with at least 5cm (2in) of cold water and set over a
high heat. Bring the water to the boil, then reduce the heat to a
simmer for 2–3 minutes. Remove the eggs.

HARD-BOIL EGGS Both the whites and the yolks should be

set. Use the method for soft-boiled eggs, but once the water has
boiled, simmer them for 7–10 minutes. The less time you give
them, the more moist the yolk will be. Then run cold water into the
pan to stop the cooking process. Peel away and discard the shells
when cool enough to handle.
Scramble eggs

1 Crack the eggs into a bowl, and remove any fallen shell. Beat the
eggs with a fork and season with salt and black pepper.
2 Heat a non-stick pan over medium heat, and add a knob of
unsalted butter if needed. When the butter melts, pour in the
beaten eggs.

3 Using a wooden spoon, pull the setting egg from the edges into
the centre. Continue doing so until it is set to your liking.
Poach eggs

1 Carefully crack an egg onto a small plate, then slide it into a pan
of gently boiling water mixed with a drop of vinegar.
2 Using a slotted spoon, gently lift the white over the yolk until set.
Adjust the heat to a gentle boil and poach for 3–5 minutes.

3 Before serving, place the eggs in another pan of gently

simmering salted water for 30 seconds to remove the taste of the
vinegar.
Bake a soufflé

1 Grease the inside of each soufflé dish and then coat with sugar,
biscuit crumbs, or grated cheese. Use sugar or biscuit crumbs for a
sweet soufflé, and grated cheese for a savoury soufflé.

2 Whisk the egg whites until holding stiff peaks: the soufflés will
not rise if under-whisked. Fold into the base gently, to retain as
much air as possible. Add a pinch of salt before mixing for savoury
soufflés.
3 Run a finger around the soufflé mix, along the top edge of each
ramekin just inside the rim, to give a professional “top hat” effect
and help the soufflés rise up straight.

4 Cook the soufflés straight away, placing them on a thoroughly

preheated baking tray. Doing this will heat the base of the
ramekins so that the soufflés begin to rise as soon as you put them
in the oven.
Make a classic omelette

1 Beat and season the eggs. Heat a non-stick frying pan over a
moderate heat and melt a knob of butter. As soon as it begins to
froth, add the eggs, tilting the pan so that the eggs can spread
evenly.

2 Stir the eggs with a fork to distribute them evenly. Stop stirring
the eggs just as soon as they are set. Fold the side of the omelette
nearest to you halfway over itself.
3 To form a neatly rolled omelette, sharply tap the handle of the
pan to encourage the other side of the omelette to curl over and
slide to the edge of the pan.

4 When the omelette is cooked to your taste, tilt the pan over a
serving plate until the omelette slides out of it onto the plate seam-
side down. Serve immediately.
Make Italian meringue

1 Dissolve 250g (9oz) caster sugar in 75ml (21⁄2fl oz) water over a
low heat to 121°C (248°F). Whisk 4 egg whites until they form soft
peaks. Pour the hot sugar syrup into the egg whites, whisking
continuously.

2 Continue to whisk until the meringue is cold, with a very stiff,

smooth, and satiny consistency. Transfer the meringue mixture
into a piping or pastry bag fitted with a metal tip.
3 Twist the loose end of the bag to seal, then squeezing with one
hand, pipe the meringue as required. You may find it easier to hold
the tip end with your other hand to keep it steady.

4 Italian meringue is easy and quick to cook. Simply place under a

preheated grill for a few minutes, or use a kitchen blowtorch, to
lightly brown the top.
Make French meringue

1 In a large mixing bowl, whisk 4 egg whites, half of 200g (7oz)

caster sugar, and the seeds of 1 vanilla pod at moderate speed.

2 Continue whisking until the mixture becomes smooth, shiny,

and firm. Draw the whisk away to check that there are soft peaks.
3 Using a rubber spatula, gently fold in the rest of the sugar. Bake
until just golden, then leave to dry in the oven for at least 8 hours.
Shape meringue

1 For discs, use a star tip to pipe the meringue in a spiral onto a
parchment-covered baking tray. Bake for 1 hour 20 minutes, then
let dry.

2 For shells, use a pastry bag with a round tip to pipe the meringue
in equal-sized globes. Bake for 1 hour 10 minutes, then let dry.
3 For fingers, use a round tip to pipe the meringue into thin sticks
and dust with icing sugar. Bake for 30–35 minutes, then let dry.
Whip cream

1 Remove the cream from the refrigerator and wait for it to reach
5°C (40°F). Set it in a large bowl over ice. Begin whipping slowly, at
about 2 strokes per second (or the lowest speed on an electric
mixer) until it starts to thicken.

2 To create soft peaks, increase the whipping to a moderate speed

and for stiff peaks, continue beating the cream. Test by lifting the
beaters or whisk to see if the cream retains its shape.
Fill a piping bag

1 Place your chosen piping nozzle in the bag and pull it through
the opening until the bag is tightly surrounding the wider end of
the nozzle. Then give the bag a twist to seal and prevent leakage.

2 Holding the bag just above the nozzle with one hand, fold the
top of the bag over with your other hand, creating a “collar”, and
begin spooning in the cream.
Make crème pâtissière

1 Over a low heat, bring 250ml (9fl oz) full-fat milk, 25g (scant 1oz)
cornflour, 2 split vanilla pods, and 30g (1oz) sugar to the boil,
whisking.

2 Whisk 3 egg yolks with 30g (1oz) of sugar in a bowl. While

whisking, add the hot milk, return to the pan and just before
boiling, remove to cool.
3 While the pan cools, remove the vanilla pods. Then add 25g
(scant 1oz) of unsalted butter pieces and whisk into the sauce until
smooth and glossy.
Make custard

1 Bring 150ml (5fl oz) full-fat milk, 150ml (5fl oz) double cream,
and ½ vanilla pod (and seeds) to the boil, remove, and chill
overnight.

2 Discard the vanilla pod and bring the milk to the boil. Whisk 3
egg yolks and 25g (scant 1oz) sugar together. Pour in half the milk,
whisking.
3 Return to the pan and whisk over a medium heat until thick,
smooth, and coating the back of a spoon. Do not boil.
Rice and other grains
BUY Rice packets should be clear, showing
unbroken grains. In ready-prepared mixes
containing wild rice, the grains may be broken
or pierced so they cook in a similar time to the
other rice in the pack. For grains, choose those
with the right amount of processing for the job
in hand. For instance, you might want toasted
buckwheat grains for adding to breakfast
cereals and buckwheat flour to add flavour to
your crêpes or pasta dough. STORE Wholegrain
and polished rices will keep in a cool, dry
cupboard for over two years. Fragrant varieties
become less aromatic, though. Flaked and
ground rice and rice flour can be stored for over
a year in an airtight container. Most grains will
keep in sealed containers in a cool, dark place
for a year or more. Amaranth, millet, and
buckwheat flour tend to go bitter after a few
months, so buy in small quantities.
White long grain
EAT Basic rice for side dishes, salads, and stuffings. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Any meat, poultry, game, or fish, pulses, root vegetables,
sweetcorn, cabbage leaves (for stuffing), peppers, aubergines,
squashes, beans, peas, cheeses, salad vegetables, dried fruits,
herbs, spices, soy sauce.
Short grain rice
EAT There are superior risotto ones like Italian Arborio and
Carnaroli, and basic short, round grain pudding rices. Use for
risottos and rice desserts. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Wild and cultivated
mushrooms, truffles, peppers, aubergines, tomatoes, peas,
squashes, saffron, herbs, onions, garlic, chicken, seafood, cheeses,
citrus, white wine, caster sugar, milk, cream, unsalted butter,
vanilla, nutmeg, dried fruits.

Basmati rice
EAT Fragrant, long-grain variety. Use in biryanis, pilafs, stuffings,
salads, and to accompany curries, casseroles, tagines, roast, and
baked dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Curry spices, curry leaves,
ginger, cinnamon, garlic, coriander leaf, parsley, mint, chives, all
meats, poultry, seafood, vegetables, dried fruits, coconut milk,
yogurt.
Thai jasmine rice
EAT Slightly sticky and fragrant. Use to accompany Thai and
Chinese savoury dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Thai curry pastes,
lemon grass, galangal, ginger, nam pla, soy sauce, all meat, fish,
shellfish, and poultry, all vegetables, coconut milk, tropical fruits,
green tea.

Red rice
EAT Speciality crops, one of the most famous being from
Camargue, in Provence, France. Excellent for salads, stuffings and
side dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Spring onions, garlic, leeks, puy
lentils, fish, shellfish, chicken, courgettes, aubergines, feta cheese,
olives, cherry and sun-dried tomatoes, cucumber, sweet peppers,
mushrooms, peas, green beans, pine nuts.
Black sticky rice
EAT Deep purple grains, with a fruity, grassy aroma. Used mostly
boiled as a sweet breakfast cereal, in dumplings, stuffings, and for
puddings. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Coconut milk, palm sugar, peanuts,
red onions, garlic, minced meat, dried prawns, oyster sauce, soy
sauce, dried shiitake mushrooms, bananas.

White sticky rice

EAT Also known as glutinous or sweet rice. Best steamed or it
becomes mushy. Use for sushi. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Rice vinegar,
wasabi, pickled ginger, nori wraps (seaweed), fresh tuna or salmon,
keta (salted salmon roe), prawns, avocados, beansprouts,
cucumber, carrot, chicken.
Paella rice
EAT Spanish rices (Bomba, the main variety, Calasparra, and
Valencia, the best). Use for Paella. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken,
shellfish, chorizo, pancetta, white wine, saffron, paprika, chilli,
olive oil, onions, garlic, mushrooms, peppers, tomatoes, peas, green
beans, parsley, thyme.

Flaked rice
EAT Part-cooked before rolling into flakes. Good for milk puddings,
or soaked, then fried in sunflower oil either with mirepoix, fresh
chillies and spices, or seasoned and mixed with peanuts as a
snack. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Milk, cream, honey, citrus, vanilla,
curry leaves, chillies, mirepoix, peanuts.
Ground rice
EAT Slightly grittier than rice flour, use in puddings and mixed
with wheat flour in baking to give a crisp texture to shortbread,
pastry, and biscuits. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Butter, milk, cream,
vanilla, almond, lavender, chocolate, dried fruit, cinnamon,
nutmeg, mixed spice.

Rice flour
EAT White or brown, gluten-free with a slightly gritty texture.
Good for coating before frying, and dusting work surfaces for
rolling bread or pastry dough. Use, too, for gluten-free breads,
cakes, and biscuits, on its own or with other gluten-free flours.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Paprika, chilli, herbs, eggs, butter, honey,
vanilla, mixed spice, cocoa, almonds, dried fruit.
Wild rice
EAT The seeds of an aquatic grass. Can be eaten alone but often
added to basmati, red, or long-grain rice. Also available ready-
mixed with them. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Game, poultry, salmon,
shellfish, eggs, bacon, asparagus, celery, mushrooms, potatoes,
squashes, mangoes, nuts.

Brown rice
EAT Wholegrain unrefined rice with a chewy texture and nutty
flavour. Available in many varieties from basic short-grain and
long-grain to speciality rices like Basmati. Use instead of white
rices but it takes longer to cook. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken,
pulses, meat, fish, most vegetables and salad stuffs, dried fruit,
curry spices, herbs, milk, cream, honey, vanilla, nutmeg.
Barley
EAT Use pearl barley in soups, stews, and orzotto (barley risotto).
Boil for pilafs and salads. Cook in milk like porridge and sweeten
for breakfast or pudding. Pot barley is the whole grain variety.
Barley flour and beremeal (a speciality Scottish flour) are best
mixed with wheat flour for baking. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken,
duck, prawns, beef, lamb, beer, mushrooms, most vegetables,
coconut, herbs, spices, apples, blackberries, citrus.

Amaranth
EAT Highly nutritious, best toasted briefly before use. Boil, then
use for pilafs, add to stews, or to rice puddings about 15 minutes
before the end of cooking. Simmer in milk like porridge and add
chopped fresh or dried fruit. Use the flour with wheat or rye flour
for pastry, flat breads, and batters. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Dried
beans, cheeses, chicken, chillies, squashes, peas, mushrooms,
coconut, corn, honey, chocolate.
Farro
EAT The distinct hazelnut flavour of this grain makes it a great
salad base. Stir into a warming vegetable soup with mushrooms
and bacon, or make into a form of no-stir risotto. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Tomatoes, olives, Florence fennel, red peppers, onion,
aubergine, courgette, apple, soft goat’s cheese, olive oil, basil,
tarragon, chives.

Buckwheat
EAT Strong-flavoured gluten-free grain. Use toasted and boiled for
pilafs or salads, or add to rice for texture and flavour. The flour is
used in Japanese soba noodles, and for blinis, crêpes, and pasta
doughs (sometimes with wheat flour). FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon,
eggs, chicken, smoked salmon, caviar, ham, melting cheeses,
cucumber, mushrooms, ginger, peanuts, cashews, parsley, soy
sauce.
Millet
EAT An excellent alternative to rice. Best toasted before boiling.
Flakes make good porridge, or add to muesli or other breakfast
cereals, flapjacks, and multigrain doughs. Use millet flour for
gluten-free biscuits and crackers. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken,
salmon, dried beans, eggs, spinach, mushrooms, soy sauce, dried
fruit, nuts, oats, other grains, muscovado sugar.

Corn
EAT Many different varieties with different uses. Cornflour, a fine
white powder, is used for thickening and dusting to prevent
sticking. Cornmeal is coarser; use in baked goods, for crumb
coatings, and tortillas. Polenta is very coarse yellow or white
cornmeal. Also use for cornbread. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beef,
bacon, chicken, pork, rabbit, cheeses, peppers, pulses, coriander
leaf, parsley, citrus, mushrooms, pumpkin, tomatoes, butter,
syrups.
 Polenta

Oats
EAT Use rolled oats for porridge, muesli, flapjacks, biscuits,
crumbles, and in bread dough. Use pinhead, coarse, and medium
oatmeal for oatcakes, in soups and stews, haggis, or to coat fried
fish. Use fine oatmeal for quick porridge, pancakes, pastry, and
puddings. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Ham, lamb, sausages, herrings,
mackerel, onions, cabbage, stone and dried fruits, berries, cream,
syrups, honey.

Wheat flours
EAT Use strong white or wholemeal flour, high in gluten, for yeast
cookery. Plain flour is for general baking and thickening; self-
raising for quick bakes. Use pastry flour for puff and choux. Farina
or Tipo "00" is for pasta, gnocchi, and fine cakes. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Nuts, seeds, dried fruits, other grains, vanilla, chocolate,
coffee, syrups, honey, jams, butter, oils, herbs, spices.
Spelt
EAT Use wholegrains for soups, pilafs, salads, and risotto-type
dishes. Farro is an Italian variety, often confused with spelt grain
and can be used in the same way. Spelt flour is available as white
and wholemeal, and is used as an alternative to common wheat.
Often tolerated by people with wheat allergies. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Lamb, chicken, game, rabbit, fish, wild and cultivated
mushrooms, most vegetables and salad stuffs, herbs, cinnamon,
nutmeg, mace, caraway, poppy and nigella seeds.

Freekeh
EAT This smoky, toasted wheat comes cracked or whole, and
makes a characterful change from bulgur. Use it in mixed salads,
or as a side dish to simple gri led meats, or a stuffing for pheasant
or partridge. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Preserved lemons, olive oil,
pomegranate molasses, game birds, mackerel, mint, coriander,
orange, mushrooms.
Quinoa
EAT High in protein and fat. An excellent alternative to rice, and
quicker to cook. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beef, chicken, pulses,
cheeses, prawns, chickpeas, chillies, coriander leaf and seed,
sweetcorn, nuts, squashes, sweet potatoes, citrus, grapes.

Bulgur
EAT Whole wheat grains steamed, hulled, dried, and crushed.
Traditional for tabbouleh, but good as a base for salads, pilafs,
stuffings, soups, and as a side dish. Cracked wheat is similar, but
not pre-cooked. Use it in multigrain breads, too. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Tomatoes, cucumber, herbs, spring onions, garlic,
cumin, cinnamon, lemon, olive oil, feta cheese, olives, dried fruit.
Wheat berries
EAT Comprising the entire wheat kernel, these have a sweetness
that gives amazing versatility. Toss them with oranges, feta, and
watercress in a vitamin-rich salad, or stir into a spicy vegetarian
chilli, or cook into a pilaf with vegetables and herbs. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Chilli, artichoke, onion, watercress, figs, orange, feta,
poultry, lime juice, honey.

Couscous
EAT Not technically a grain, as it’s processed from wheat. Giant
couscous and fregola have larger granules, roasted during
manufacture, so are less sticky and chewier. Serve as a side dish,
plain or with added flavourings, as a base for spicy main courses
like Couscous Royale, in salads, stuffings, and cakes. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Olive oil, lamb, chicken, chorizo, fish, chickpeas,
coriander leaf, mint, thyme, bay leaf, oregano, garlic, onions,
peppers, courgettes, aubergines, tomatoes, chilli, paprika, harissa
paste, cumin, cinnamon, dried fruit.

Rye
EAT Cook the grains for nutty pilafs, salads, in stuffings, bread
doughs, and soups. Dark and light rye flour is good for baking,
particularly bread, with or without wheat flour, and makes
delicious Scotch pancakes. Rye flakes are also available for
porridge, or adding to muesli, cracker, and bread doughs.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cheeses, ham, crab, smoked salmon, fennel,
sauerkraut, honey, maple syrup, oats, oranges, raisins.
Pulses (dried peas, beans, and
lentils)
BUY If buying packets of pulses, inspect for
signs of tearing where animals might have been
at work. If buying in bulk, pulses should be
clean and unbroken and free from dust, grit, or
signs of spoilage. Sprouted beans should look
crisp and fresh. Avoid if browning. Most kinds
of pulses are sold ready-cooked in cans too.
Some are sold frozen. STORE Keep indefinitely
in sealed containers in a cool, dark place. The
longer you keep them, the longer they’ll need
soaking before cooking. All except mung beans,
lentils, and split peas should be boiled rapidly
for 10 minutes to remove toxins, before
simmering until tender. Can be frozen, cooked,
for up to 6 months.
Flageolet beans
EAT Integral to French cuisine, with a creamy texture and delicate
flavour. Traditionally served with roast or braised lamb. Good in
soups, stews, casseroles, and salads, or serve as a side dish.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Lamb, delicate fish, veal, garlic, shallots, red
onions, tomatoes, celery, carrots, fennel, paprika, parsley, sage,
thyme.
Cannellini beans
EAT Italian long white haricot bean, with nutty flavour and
smooth texture. Good in salads, soups, and stews. Smaller round
haricots are used for baked beans. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Tomatoes,
garlic, eggs, onions, fennel, cavolo nero, white wine, sage, thyme,
bacon, pork, black pudding.

Pinto beans
EAT Earthy flavour and floury texture, used for Mexican refried
beans and in most chilli dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Eggs, beef,
fresh, dried and pickled chillies, onions, garlic, coriander leaf,
parsley, oregano, tomatoes, peppers, rice.
Butter beans
EAT Large and floury, good for soaking up flavours in soups, stews,
and braises, and for mashing. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Gammon, pork,
chicken, pheasant, chorizo and other sausages, garlic, onions,
turmeric, cumin, cloves, turnips, carrots, kale, crème fraîche,
tahini, parsley, coriander leaf.

Chickpeas
EAT Smooth and buttery when puréed, ideal for dips and sauces,
good in patties too. They also keep their shape, so good for long-
cooked stews and casseroles. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Garlic, cumin,
turmeric, coriander seed and leaf, parsley, mint, chilli, sweet and
smoked paprika, cinnamon, cloves, chorizo, tahini, tomatoes,
onions, aubergines, peppers, squashes, mushrooms.
Mung beans
EAT Robust yet creamy, good in soups, stews, or casseroles. Most
popular sprouted for stir-fries, salads, and sandwiches. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Most vegetables, seafood, chicken, Sichuan pepper,
garlic, ginger, soy sauce, rice wine.

Mung beans

Mung bean sprouts

Soya beans
EAT Highly nutritious but lack flavour, so good used in spicy stews,
terrines, and patties. Also used for making soya products like milk,
tofu, miso, and soy sauce. Use the sprouts in stir-fries and salads.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beans: curry spices, herbs, mango chutney,
chillies, mushrooms, root vegetables, kale, cavolo nero. Sprouts:
oyster sauce, black bean sauce, hoisin, vinegar, honey, pineapple,
peppers, spring onions, garlic, Chinese five-spice powder.

Soya beans

Soya bean sprouts

Adzuki beans
EAT Nutty, slightly sweet and keep their shape when cooked. Good
in pilafs, salads, stews, and patties. Use the sprouts in the same
way. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Sweet peppers, squashes, sweet
potatoes, rice, orzo, chilli, bay, basil, apples, pears, soy sauce.
 Adzuki beans

Adzuki bean sprouts

Red kidney beans

EAT Best known as an integral part of chilli con carne, but also
excellent in soups, casseroles, and salads. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Beef, lamb, onions, tomatoes, garlic, cumin, chilli, coriander leaf,
avocados, sweet peppers, pickled jalapeños, crisp lettuce, hard
cheeses.
Black beans
EAT Exceptionally good flavour and texture, used in both Central
and South American and Asian cuisines, or fermented in black
bean sauce. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Onions, garlic, chilli, ginger, rice,
avocados, peppers, aubergines, beef, pork, chicken, oyster sauce,
soy sauce, rice wine.

Black-eyed beans
EAT Also known as black-eyed peas or cowpeas, a good all-rounder
for serving hot and cold. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Rice, chilli
(particularly hot sauce), pork, ham, cod, tuna, potatoes, spring
onions, root vegetables, peppers, squashes, olive oil, citrus.

Split peas
EAT Available green or yellow, they cook to a pulp so are good for
purées (like dals), soups, vegetable bakes, and pâtés. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Ham, bacon, pork, beef, onions, garlic, leeks, potatoes,
sweet potatoes, carrots, mint, parsley, mustards, cumin and
coriander seeds, cardamom.

Borlotti beans
EAT Classic Italian bean for soups, pasta dishes, and salads.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Onions, garlic, celery, fennel, root vegetables,
squashes, mushrooms, chorizo, pork, lamb, squid, parsley, sage,
thyme, rosemary.

Red lentils
EAT They cook quickly to a pulp so are good for soups and dals.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Ham, bacon, curry spices, harissa paste, red
peppers, onions, garlic, olive oil, paneer.
Puy lentils
EAT Tiny green French lentils, that are tender but firm when
cooked. Good braised, in stuffings, or in salads. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Pheasant, chicken, beef, lamb, pork, chorizo, fish,
shellfish, mushrooms, garlic, red or white wine.

Brown lentils
EAT Nutty textured and hold their shape when cooked. Excellent
alternative to meat in vegetarian dishes, from stuffings to patties,
“roasts” to risottos. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Garlic, spices, herbs,
onions, mushrooms, potatoes, celery, root vegetables, cheeses,
coconut, peanuts, chestnuts.
Green lentils
EAT Use in the same way as brown lentils but particularly good for
warm salads and dals. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Tuna, pork, chicken,
cumin seeds, ginger, garlic, curry spices, yogurt, lemon, onions,
cherry tomatoes, cucumber, celery.
Cook rice by absorption

1 Put the rice and 11⁄2 times its quantity of water into a saucepan.
Bring to the boil, stir once, then simmer uncovered until the water
is absorbed. Remove from the heat and cover with a clean tea
towel and a lid.

2 Leave the rice to steam under the tea towel and saucepan lid for
20 minutes. Remove the tea towel and replace the lid. Leave to
stand for 5 minutes, then fluff the rice with a fork and serve.
Rehydrate instant couscous

1 Place the couscous in a bowl and pour over twice as much

boiling water. Cover with cling film and leave to stand for 5
minutes. Uncover the bowl and fluff up the grains with a fork, then
cover again for 5 minutes.

2 Now remove the cling film. Enrich the couscous by adding 1 tbsp
of olive oil or a knob of butter, and season to taste. Fluff up the
grains again with a fork until they are light and separate. It is ready
to serve.
Make risotto

1 Heat 900ml (11⁄2 pints) stock in a saucepan to a simmer. In

another, wide-based pan, heat 1 tbsp olive oil and 75g (21⁄2oz)
unsalted butter and soften 1 finely chopped shallot. Stir in 280g
(10oz) risotto rice, coating the grains in the butter and oil.

2 Add one 75ml (21⁄2fl oz) glass of white wine or dry vermouth and
boil, stirring until absorbed. Then add a ladle of simmering stock
and stir until absorbed. Continue adding the hot stock, one ladle at
at time, and stirring constantly.
3 Continue adding the stock and stirring with a wooden spoon
until the rice is tender, but retains a slight bite. Add a knob of
butter, season with salt and pepper to taste, and remove from the
heat.

4 The constant stirring releases the starch in the rice, so the

risotto should now have a creamy texture. Cover the pan and leave
the risotto to rest for about 2 minutes before serving.
Make soft and grilled polenta

1 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Gradually pour in

the polenta, whisking quickly and continuously to ensure there are
no lumps and the mixture is smooth.

2 Reduce the heat to low. Continue cooking for 40–45 minutes, or

until the polenta is coming away from the edge of the pan,
whisking occasionally. Stir in butter and Parmesan cheese, and
season to taste.
3 For grilled polenta, first make soft polenta, but without the
butter and cheese. Once thickened, pour it onto a greased baking
tray, spread with a spatula, then leave it to set. (Keep up to 4 days,
chilled and covered.)

4 When ready to use, turn the tray out onto a board. Cut the
polenta into the desired shapes and sizes. Brush the pieces with
olive oil, then grill on a hot, ridged griddle pan for about 3–5
minutes on each side.
Make blinis

1 Sift 100g (31⁄2oz) buckwheat flour, 1⁄4 tsp baking powder, and 1⁄4 tsp
salt into bowl. Add 1 egg yolk and half of 100ml (31⁄2fl oz) milk, and
beat together. Add the remaining milk and when smooth, fold in 1
whisked egg white.

2 Heat a flat griddle pan and add a thin layer of vegetable oil.
Spoon a few spoonfuls of batter into the pan to cook, turning them
over with a spatula once bubbles appear on the surface and the
edges are firm.
Make pancakes

1 Make a batter by whisking 200g (7oz) plain flour, 1 tbsp caster

sugar, 2 large eggs, and 450ml (15fl oz) whole milk together. Melt a
knob of butter in a frying pan, add a ladle of batter and tip it to
cover the pan.

2 Cook the pancake for 30–45 seconds then use a metal spatula to
peel the pancake loose and check it is golden brown. Then either
turn it over by flipping in the air, or use the spatula to do the job.
Mix bread dough

1 In a bowl, whisk together 1½ tsp fresh yeast and 350g (12oz)

tepid water (weigh both dry and liquid ingredients in a jug to keep
the correct ratio of flour to water), until the yeast has completely
dissolved.

2 In a separate bowl, combine 500g (1lb 2oz) strong white flour and
1 tsp salt. Then, using only your hand to stir, mix the yeast liquid
together with the dry ingredients.
3 As quickly as possible, mix together to make a soft, sticky dough.
Make sure that all the flour is thoroughly combined with the liquid
by scraping your hand all around the bowl.

4 Cover the dough with a clean tea towel to keep it moist. Leave to
stand for 10 minutes before beginning to knead it, as this should
produce a more elastic dough that is easier to work.
Knead bread dough

1 Try using a lightly oiled, rather than floured surface for

kneading. Rub another 2 tbsp of oil over the dough ball, then fold it
in half, bringing the top edge towards you. It will be very sticky and
quite soft at this stage.

2 Use the thumb of one hand to hold the fold in place, then use
the heel of your stronger hand to gently but firmly push down and
away through the centre of the dough to seal the fold and stretch
it.
3 Lift the dough and rotate it a quarter turn. Repeat the folding,
pushing, and rotating process 10–12 times. Then place the dough in
an oiled bowl seam-side down, cover with a cloth, and leave to
prove for 10 minutes.

4 Knead the dough in this way again twice, with 10 minutes

between each knead. Each time you do this it will require less oil.
By the end, the dough will become noticeably more elastic and
even silken.
Make a pizza base

1 In a bowl, dissolve 14g (1⁄2oz) fast-action dried yeast in 360ml

(12fl oz) water and 2 tbsp olive oil. On a work surface, make a well
in 500g (1lb 2oz) strong plain flour, add the liquid, and bring the
flour into the centre.

2 Using your hands, combine the flour and liquid and form it into
a ball of dough. Knead the dough for 10 minutes, or until smooth.
Set the dough aside in a bowl, cover with cling film, and allow to
rise.
3 When the dough has doubled in size, turn it out onto a floured
surface. Working from the centre outward, roll the dough into a
circle. Flip the dough and repeat.

4 Roll the dough circle over the rolling pin and carefully transfer it
to a lightly oiled and floured baking tray. Pinch the edges with your
thumb and index finger to make a small rim.
Make brioche dough

1 In a bowl, mix 375g (13oz) strong white flour, 7g (1⁄4oz) instant

dried yeast, and 50g (13⁄4oz) caster sugar. Using a dough hook, mix
on medium speed and gradually add 100ml (31⁄2fl oz) warm milk
and 3 lightly beaten eggs.

2 Mix until smooth, then add 1 more egg. Once the dough is mixed
and begins to come away from the edges of the bowl, add salt and
175g (6oz) softened unsalted butter (cut into pieces). Mix again.
3 When the dough is smooth, transfer it to another large bowl.
Cover with cling film and leave it to sit at room temperature for 2–
3 hours, or until it doubles in size. The risen dough will be very
sticky.

4 On a floured work surface, deflate the dough by punching it

down. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with cling film and
place in a refrigerator for 1¼ hours. Deflate once more, then shape
and bake.
Shortcrust pastry

1 Sift 175g (6oz) plain white flour and a pinch of salt in a bowl. Add
85g (3oz) cold diced unsalted butter, margarine, or other fat. Lightly
stir.

2 Using your fingertips, rub together the flour and butter until it
forms coarse crumbs. Sprinkle over 2 tbsp iced water.
3 Use your fingers to gather the dough together and roll around to
form a ball. Wrap in cling film and chill for 30 minutes before
using.
Rough puff pastry

1 In a bowl, combine 250g (9oz) plain flour, 85g (3oz) cold unsalted
butter, and 85g (3oz) vegetable fat with a knife. Add 150ml (5fl oz)
iced water.

2 Add a squeeze of lemon juice, and stir with a knife to bind. Place
the dough on a floured board and gently roll out.
3 Fold the top third of the pastry down, the bottom third up, and
roll. Turn 90 degrees and repeat the process. Chill for 30 minutes
before using.
Choux pastry

1 Bring 240ml (8fl oz) water and 115g (4oz) diced unsalted butter to
the boil. Remove from the heat and add 140g (5oz) plain flour and 1
tsp sugar.

2 Beat until smooth, then return the pan to the heat and stir until
the dough forms a ball and comes away from the sides of the pan.
3 Remove the pan from the heat. Add 4 eggs, one at a time, beating
well. When the mixture easily drops off the spoon it is ready to use.
Sweet shortcrust pastry

1 Sift 200g (7oz) plain flour onto a work surface. Make a well in the
centre and add 85g (3oz) unsalted butter, 4 tbsp sugar, and 3 egg
yolks.

2 Using your fingertips, gradually work the flour into the butter
and egg mixture to form very rough crumbs.
3 Gather the dough into a ball and knead it lightly until it is
pliable. Wrap in cling film and chill for 30 minutes before using.
Shape choux pastry

1 Pipe neat and uniform globes onto a baking sheet, pressing the
nozzle gently into the paste at the end to avoid forming a peak.

2 If peaks should form, dip a fork in a little beaten egg to gently

flatten them. Lightly brush with beaten egg, then bake.
3 When cooked, the buns should be puffed and golden. Make a
small slit in each of the buns to allow the steam to escape, then
cool.

4 When cool, use the small slit in each bun to fill it, by piping in
cream or chocolate using a large, plain nozzle.
5 To make éclairs, use a plain nozzle to pipe the choux paste in
strips, making each “finger” identical in length. Bake, pierce, and
cool.

6 To create rings, mark out circles of your chosen size on a baking

sheet. Following the circles, pipe choux rings, bake, pierce, and
cool.
Roll out puff pastry

1 On a piece of baking parchment, on a cool, floured, work surface,

roll out your pastry dough to a long rectangle.

2 Beat 100g (31⁄2oz) chilled unsalted butter into a rectangle and

encase it in the dough. Turn the parcel over and gently roll out
again.
3 Using the edge of the baking parchment, fold both the top and
the bottom ends of the dough inwards to meet in the centre (a
“book fold”).

4 Turn the parcel 90 degrees and fold the dough in half at the
centre. Using your hands, flatten the parcel slightly, and chill for
30 minutes.
5 Roll the pastry parcel out to a rectangle again, then fold and chill
as before. Repeat the process once more.

6 Roll into a rectangle then fold one end to the middle and the
other over it. Cover with cling film and chill for 30 minutes before
using.
Line a tart tin

1 Using a pastry brush dipped in a little melted unsalted butter,

grease the inside of a tart ring or a loose-bottomed tart tin. Place
the ring on a large flat baking sheet covered with baking
parchment.

2 Sprinkle a little flour on a cool work surface, then lightly dust

the pastry ball with flour, and roll out the pastry into a circle larger
than your tart ring. Keep rolling out until it is 3–5mm (1⁄8–1⁄4in)
thick.
3 Ensure that the pastry does not stick to the surface by sliding a
flexible spatula underneath it after every few strokes with the
rolling pin. Carefully brush away any surplus flour with a dry
pastry brush.

4 Use the rolling pin to gather up the pastry by rolling the pastry
halfway over it. Then carefully lift the rest of the pastry circle away
from the surface to transfer it to the tart ring.
5 Dust off any surplus flour again, and gently unroll the pastry
circle across the tart ring, making sure that there is plenty of
excess pastry to cover the sides of the ring.

6 Carefully smooth the pastry from the centre of the circle then,
using your thumbs and forefingers, gently press the pastry into the
inside edge of the ring and and up the sides.
7 Now use your rolling pin to trim away the excess pastry and give
a clean edge, by pressing the rolling pin over the top of the tart ring
to cut away the pastry hanging over the top.

8 Using your thumbs, carefully press the pastry into and up the
sides of the ring again to achieve a smooth fit. Prick the base all
over with a fork to allow air to escape. Chill in the refrigerator for
30 minutes before using.
Blind bake

1 Cut a circle of baking parchment slightly larger than the flan

ring or tart tin that you are using. Fold the disc in half several
times, then clip the outer edge with scissors.

2 Place the pastry in the flan ring and and prick it with a fork, then
cover the base and sides of the pastry with the parchment, taking
the paper above the sides of the ring. Fill with baking beans or
dried beans.
3 Place the shell in the oven and bake according to your recipe’s
instructions. For a fully baked case, remove the beans and paper,
then return the shell to the oven for the required time.

4 Cool the pastry case on a wire rack. Lift off the flan ring (or
remove from the tart tin) before or after filling, according to the
recipe instructions.
Trim and decorate pastry

For a forked edge, press the dough to the rim of the dish using the
prongs of a fork. Repeat around the edge in even intervals.

For a rope edge, pinch the dough between your thumb and the
knuckle of your index finger. Place your thumb in the groove and
repeat.
For a fluted edge, push a finger against the outside edge and pinch
the pastry with the other finger and thumb to form a ruffle.
Seal and glaze pastry

Apply a melted jelly, jam, or light caramel over fruit before serving
to give it a lustrous appearance.

For turnovers, brush with an egg wash (1 egg yolk, 1 tbsp water and
a pinch of salt) before baking to give a rich, glossy glaze.
For a cooked sweet tart, thinly glaze the base of a cooled tart shell
with melted plain or white chocolate and allow to set.
Prepare and line a cake tin

1 Melt unsalted butter and use a pastry brush to apply a thin, even
layer all over the bottom and sides of the tin, including any
corners.

2 Sprinkle a little flour into the tin, then shake and rotate the pan
so the flour coats the bottom and sides. Tip away any excess flour.
3 If using a paper liner instead of flouring, place a fitted piece of
baking parchment directly onto the greased bottom of the tin.
Roll a sponge roulade

1 Spread the sponge mixture on a lined baking tray. Bake until

golden, then put a piece of baking parchment on top and turn out
the cake.

2 Slowly peel away the bottom layer of parchment. Fill, and roll,
using the second piece of parchment to support the roulade.
3 Fold one half of the paper over the roulade, then push a ruler
against the roll to shape it. Remove the paper, and trim the ends to
serve.
Make a genoese sponge

1 Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F/Gas 5). Sift 200g (7oz) plain
flour and set aside. In a heatproof bowl over boiling water, place 6
eggs and 20g (¾oz) honey, and whisk until the mixture is a creamy,
pale yellow.

2 Remove from the heat and whisk at a high speed until thick. Add
grated zest of ½ unwaxed lemon, and whisk slowly for 15 minutes.
Fold in the flour.
3 Whisk 2 tbsp of the butter into 60g (2oz) melted unsalted butter,
then whisk it all together. Pour into a lined springform tin and bake
at 180°C (350°F/Gas 4) for 30–40 minutes.

4 Remove the sponge from the oven and leave to cool for 10
minutes. Set on a wire rack and release the springform. To cut
layers, place one hand on top of the cake and use a long-bladed,
serrated knife to cut through.
Pasta
BUY Available fresh or dried, plain white, with
egg, wholemeal, or coloured and flavoured with
spinach, with olives, with black squid ink, and
with tomato. Fresh is not always best; some
sauces are better suited to dried pasta, and a
quality brand will be superior to a cheap fresh
pasta. A rough texture is a positive attribute,
indicating that the pasta was made in small
batches and that sauces will cling well to it.
STORE Keep dried pasta in a sealed container in
a cool dry place for up to a year. Freshly made
pasta keeps for up to 3 days in the fridge, 3
months in the freezer. Bought fresh pasta keeps
about a week in the refrigerator – check use-by
date. Cooked pasta can be frozen for up to 2
months; it will be slightly softer on thawing.

Spaghetti
EAT Long, thin, and round. Use with everything from a simple
garlic, chilli, and olive oil dressing to cream or meat sauces. Made
from durum wheat and also from alternative flours. Spaghettini is
thin spaghetti; use in the same way. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Meat
ragùs, meatballs, pesto, olive oil, butter, cream, ham, pancetta,
onions, garlic, tomatoes, chillies, shellfish, Parmesan.
Vermicelli
EAT Very fine durum wheat pasta, like very thin spaghetti. Used in
many cuisines outside Italy. Often cooked and layered with fish or
vegetable mixtures and baked with a breadcrumb topping or
broken into pieces to add to broth (available ready-cut too).
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Shellfish, sweet peppers, tomatoes, onions,
aubergines, courgettes, olives, garlic, basil, oregano, thyme,
breadcrumbs, olive oil, chicken, beef and vegetable broths.

Tagliatelle
EAT Fresh tagliatelle is sold in strips; dried in nests. Good with rich
meat and cream sauces. Dried nests are available in different
colours and flavours. Best to choose complementary sauces e.g.
black pasta is flavoured with squid or cuttlefish ink so best
matched with seafood or vegetables. Fettuccine is a narrower
version, sold in lengths. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cream, crème
fraîche, eggs, ham, pancetta, mushrooms, peas, broad beans, fresh
and smoked salmon, shellfish, broccoli, classic bolognese sauce,
Parmesan.
Pappardelle
EAT Thick ribbons with wavy or straight edges. Good with chunky
meat or fish sauces. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Olive oil, cream, veal,
beef, chicken, chicken livers, monkfish, halibut, tuna, fresh and
smoked salmon, sage, oregano, basil, parsley, olives, garlic, onions,
tomatoes.

Orzo
EAT Beads of pasta used in place of rice in soups, bakes or side
dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, beef and vegetable broths,
olive oil, tomatoes, onions, garlic, sweet peppers, olives, cavolo
nero, carrots, turnips, mushrooms.
Macaroni
EAT Smooth or ribbed, short or long pasta tubes. Use for macaroni
cheese and other baked pasta dishes, such as timbales. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Cheddar and blue cheeses, Italian hard cheeses,
broccoli, tomatoes, mushrooms, spinach, sweetcorn, tuna, bacon,
prosciutto crudo, breadcrumbs, butter.

Lasagne
EAT Fresh or dried, usually layered with a chunky sauce and
topped with béchamel sauce, then baked. Fresh lasagne can be
cooked and folded on plates over a filling and served as open
lasagne or open ravioli. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bolognese sauce,
tomato sauce, fish and shellfish, mixed pulses, mushrooms,
Mediterranean vegetables, broccoli, Italian hard cheeses,
mascarpone.
Farfalle
EAT Resembling bow ties or butterflies, they’re good with simple
tomato, or cheese and ham sauces, or in salads and oven bakes.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Tomatoes, onions, garlic, olive oil, basil,
Gorgonzola, cream, Italian hard cheeses, cherry tomatoes, black
olives, pesto, salmon, tuna, pine nuts, spinach.

Fusilli
EAT Favourite spiral shape for coloured pasta and multigrain
combinations (as well as plain). Good in salads and bakes and with
chunky vegetable and creamy sauces. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Olive
oil, black olives, tomatoes, aubergines, red peppers, onions, garlic,
capers, pine nuts, basil, cream, Gorgonzola, mozzarella, Parmesan.
Rigatoni
EAT Large and satisfying, good with meat ragùs and chunky
vegetables but also with smooth cream and cheese sauces.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beef, veal, chicken, ham, pig’s liver, olive oil,
butter, sage, basil, parsley, onions, tomatoes, sweetcorn, broccoli,
beans, spinach, mozzarella, Italian hard cheeses, Gorgonzola.

Penne
EAT Pasta quills with smooth sides (lisce) or ribbed (regate).
Classically paired with tomato and chilli sauces, and also good in
salads and pasta bakes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Olive oil, butter,
cream, onions, garlic, sweet peppers, mushrooms, shellfish,
chicken, chorizo, beef, veal, tomatoes, fennel, sun-dried tomatoes,
basil, parsley, thyme, chillies, Parmesan, mascarpone.
Conchiglie
EAT Shells available in small (add to soups), medium (serve with
sauces or in salads), and large (stuff). FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken
and vegetable broths, tomatoes, onions, garlic, anchovies, prawns
and other shellfish, bacon, ham, chicken, sweetcorn, peas, spinach,
squashes, rocket, olives, Parmesan, basil, sage.

Trofie
EAT Speciality of Liguria, handmade with just Tipo “00” flour and
water, traditionally served with pesto from the same region.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Basil pesto, olive oil, butter, prawns, goat’s
cheese, lemon, artichoke hearts, wild mushrooms, courgettes,
Parmesan.
Ravioli
EAT Stuffed square or round (girasole) pasta cushions, filled with
meat, chicken, vegetables, mushrooms, fish, or spinach and ricotta
cheese. Serve simply dressed, or with a sauce. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Fresh tomato sauce, butter, olive oil, sage, thyme, parsley,
Parmesan, mascarpone.

Cappelletti
EAT Modelled on little hats worn in the Middle ages, usually
stuffed with meat or cheese. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Butter, olive oil,
sage, parsley, garlic, Italian hard cheeses.
Lunette
EAT “Little moons”, sometimes flavoured with truffles, often
stuffed with cheese, or mixtures like broccoli and almonds.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Olive oil, butter, fresh herbs, truffles or truffle
oil.
Noodles
BUY All these noodles cook quickly, so take
care to follow packet instructions or they will
become very soft. All are available dried. If you
find a supplier of fresh noodles, make sure the
shop has a high turnover of trade as they
deteriorate quickly. STORE Fresh versions
should be eaten on day of purchase but can be
stored in the refrigerator in a plastic bag for a
few days if necessary. Dried noodles will keep
wrapped, in a cool, dry cupboard for several
years.

Flat rice noodles

EAT Also called rice sticks, they vary in width from 2mm (1⁄12in)–
1cm (1⁄2in). Use in pad thai, add to stir-fries, or use with steamed
dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Shallots, beansprouts, spring onions,
chilli, coriander leaf, oyster sauce, nam pla, lime, peanuts, eggs,
prawns.

Rice vermicelli
EAT Very thin skeins of dried noodles. Use to add soft bulk and
texture to many dishes including spring rolls and salads. Try deep-
frying dried noodles to puff up and crisp as a garnish for salads, or
soak, dry, then deep-fry for crunchy noodles to serve with stir-fries.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Sesame oil and seeds, ginger, chilli, garlic,
shiitake mushrooms, spring onions, cabbage, carrots, shellfish,
chicken, beef, soy sauce, oyster sauce, beansprouts.

Brown rice udon noodles

EAT Often made with wheat flour too, these give a more distinctive
flavour and firmer texture to serve in soups, and with salads, stir-
fries, steamed, or stewed dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chilli,
ginger, peanut butter, peanut oil, sesame oil, soy sauce, garlic,
miso, coconut milk, spring onions, broccoli, carrots, daikon, pak
choi and other leafy greens, baby corn, mangetout, green beans.

Fine rice noodles

EAT Thin, straight version of flat rice noodles, suitable for adding
to soups and stir-fries. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken or beef broth,
chicken, beef, prawns, crab, lobster, shiitake mushrooms,
sweetcorn, spring onions, soy sauce, ginger, garlic.
Wheat udon noodles
EAT Plump white noodles with rounded or square-cut edges. Serve
in broths and thick curry (katsu) sauces. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Chicken, pork, prawns, garlic, onions, peppers, root and green
vegetables, apples, bananas, curry spices, turmeric, honey, tomato
ketchup, chicken broth, miso, nam pla, chilli, star anise.

Chinese wheat noodles

EAT Round or flat, they are robust and versatile. Ideal for soups
and stir-fries. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beef, poultry, pork, cashew
nuts, peanuts, chilli, green peppers, miso, onion, oyster sauce,
spinach, Chinese five-spice powder.
Buckwheat (soba) noodles
EAT Japanese noodles, either exclusively buckwheat, or mixed with
wheat flour (milder). Good hot or cold. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Spring
onions, shiitake mushrooms, asparagus, mangetout, carrots,
celery, peppers, beansprouts, garlic, lime, soy sauce, peanuts,
tahini, chilli, ginger, rice wine, rice vinegar, honey, chicken,
prawns.

Bean thread (cellophane) noodles

EAT Made from mung beans and tapioca, particularly good in
salads. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Peanut or sunflower oil, sesame oil,
rice wine vinegar, soy sauce, chilli, ginger, garlic, cucumber,
carrots, radishes, chicken, duck, prawns, lychees, mango,
beansprouts.
Chinese egg noodles
EAT Available in a variety of thicknesses. Famous in chow mein,
but good in all stir-fries and steamed dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Beef, poultry, pork, prawns, sesame oil, soy sauce, dry sherry, rice
wine, spring onions, peppers, Chinese five-spice powder, chilli
sauce.

Somen noodles
EAT Associated with Japanese summer time, they are often eaten
cold with a dipping sauce. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Tamari soy sauce,
ginger, garlic, rice wine, chilli, spring onions, sesame oil, most
vegetables, beef, chicken, pork, fish and shellfish.
Ramen noodles
EAT Japanese wheat noodles, similar to Chinese versions, served in
soups and as an accompaniment. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken or
beef broth, chicken, beef, shellfish, shiitake mushrooms, bamboo
shoots, daikon, carrots, spring onions, miso, mustard greens,
ginger, garlic, tamari soy sauce.

Indian vermicelli
EAT Fine wheat noodles, sold plain or pre-toasted (as most recipes
call for them to be browned in ghee before use). Used in some
savoury dishes but mostly for milk puddings. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Milk, sugars, honey, cardamom seeds, cumin seeds, saffron,
raisins, cashew nuts, pistachios, butter or ghee.
Cook dried pasta

1 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and pour in the
pasta. Stir once to prevent the pasta sticking to the bottom of the
pan.

2 Boil with the pan uncovered, following the recommended

cooking time on the pack, or until al dente (remove a spoonful to
test).
3 Drain the pasta through a colander, shaking it gently to remove
any excess water, and toss with a little oil to prevent it sticking
together.
Boil noodles

1 To boil egg, wheat, or buckwheat noodles, bring a large saucepan

of water to the boil. Add the noodles, allow the water to return to
the boil, then cook until the noodles are softened (about 2
minutes).

2 Drain the noodles in a colander and place them under cold

running water. Toss the noodles with a little oil to prevent them
from sticking, then proceed with the desired recipe.
Make pasta dough

1 Pour the pasta flour onto a work surface, form a well in the
centre and add the eggs, then gently break the yolks with a fork.

2 Beat the eggs lightly with the fork, then slowly begin to draw the
flour into the centre to mix with the eggs a little at a time.
3 Once the eggs and the flour have been combined, push any
remaining flour into the centre and use your hands to form the
dough.

4 Now place the dough on a clean surface and knead it firmly with
both hands until it feels semi-soft and holds together.
5 Continue to knead the dough, turning it as you go, for at least 4–
5 minutes, or until it feels silky, smooth, and elastic.

6 Wrap the kneaded dough in cling film and place it in the

refrigerator (but not the coldest part) to rest for up to an hour.
Use a pasta machine

1 Flatten the pasta dough into a rectangle and pass tvhrough the
pasta machine on the thickest setting 3 times. This will make the
dough spread out to fill the full width of the machine.

2 Fold the pasta dough into thirds, then flatten it , and pass
through the machine again. Repeat this process 6 times (lightly
dusting the dough with flour once or twice to prevent it sticking).
3 Continue to roll the pasta through the machine, decreasing the
thickness setting each time. As you turn the handle with one hand,
support the dough with the other, as it gradually becomes thinner.

4 To save time, press the edges of the pasta sheet together to

create a loop. This will avoid the need to keep removing the dough
from the machine and feeding it back in.
Cut pasta dough by hand

1 To make rectangular or square shaped pasta, cut the dough to

the required size for your recipe. 12 x 15cm (5 x6 in) rectangles are
the usual size for lasagne or cannelloni.

2 To make pasta noodles, fold the dough into thirds with the folds
at the top and bottom, then cut it into strips. Pappardelle are
usually 1cm (1⁄2in) wide; fettuccine are usually 5mm (1⁄4in) wide.
Make gnocchi

1 Gnocchi are made by forming a rough dough out of cooked

potato, eggs, and flour. Take each piece of dough and roll it back
and forth on a floured work surface to form a cylinder. Ensure you
handle it lightly.

2 When the cylinders are evenly formed (they should be about as

thick as your forefinger), cut the dough into 3cm (11⁄4in) pieces,
shape into crescents, and press onto the back of a fork to form the
indentations.
Assemble ravioli

1 Using a pasta machine, roll out a thin sheet of pasta and divide it
into two equal lengths. Take one sheet and mark out the number
and shape of ravioli, as specified by the recipe, by scoring the pasta
with a cutter.

2 Take teaspoonfuls of the filling mixture and carefully place them

in the centre of each scored raviolo half. Brush on beaten egg or a
little water, to help bind the edges of the ravioli.
3 Now take the second length of rolled-out pasta and carefully lift
it over the first sheet, check for alignment, and then place on top.
Gently shape round each dollop of filling, getting rid of any air
bubbles.

4 Take the pastry cutter and run it around the outside edges of the
ravioli sheet to form a neat edge, then cut out each individual
raviolo. Lightly press around the edges with your fingertips to seal.
Shape tortellini

1 Roll the pasta dough until it is extremely thin. Lay out a sheet
12cm (5in) wide, then trim the edges. Cut the sheet into two equal
lengths. Put one half aside and cover with a clean, damp tea towel.

2 Spread another damp tea towel on your work surface and lay the
other dough sheet on top. Cut the pasta sheet in half lengthways,
then cut across it at equal intervals to create 6cm (21⁄2in) squares.
3 Take one square and turn it over onto the work surface, so that
its damp side now faces upwards. Position it like a diamond, rather
than a square. Place a teaspoon of filling into the middle of the
diamond.

4 Now take the bottom corner up over the filling to the top corner,
so that it forms a triangular shape. Press the edges together and
then lift the left and right corners and pinch them together to seal.
Oils
BUY There are hundreds of oils on the market.
It is important to use the right one for the job.
Here’s a selection of favourites used in cookery.
Choose cold-pressed oils for flavour and
nutritional value. Not all oils are suitable for
frying. Those high in polyunsaturated fats have
too low a smoking point. STORE Olive and seed
oils will keep unopened in a cool, dark place for
a year or more. However, nut oils should be
used within 6 months. All open bottles should
be used within 3 months.

Extra virgin olive oil

EAT Highest-quality olive oil, the best is cold-pressed. Made from a
single olive variety or a blend, filtered or unfiltered, producing a
wide variety of flavour and colour, from olive green to greenish
gold. Acidity must be less than 1 per cent. Use when flavour is all-
important – as a condiment or drizzle, in dressings, dips, and
marinades. Don’t waste an expensive oil for frying. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Asparagus, artichokes, aubergines, peppers, tomatoes,
baby leeks, onions, shallots, garlic, fresh herbs, olives, capers, fresh
cheeses, cured meats, fish, seafood, wines, vinegars, mustards,
honey.
Virgin olive oil
EAT Lower quality than extra virgin oil. Acidity must be less than 2
per cent. Use for everyday cooking, when you want a milder-
flavoured dressing, or for grilling and sautéing. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Wine, balsamic, and fruit vinegars, Dijon and
wholegrain mustard, white and red wine, citrus, all meats, fish,
seafood, poultry, game, vegetables, most dried and fresh fruits,
herbs, chilli.

Olive/light olive oil

EAT A blend of virgin olive oil and a cheaper refined oil to give a
“lighter” flavour. Popular with those who aren’t so keen on the
pronounced flavour of extra virgin oil. Some like it for making
mayonnaise. Light does not mean lower in calories. Use for general
cooking or mix with a little nut or seed oil (like walnut or toasted
pumpkin) in dressings. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS All meats, fish,
poultry and game, egg yolks, mustard, vegetables, salad stuffs,
wine, balsamic or fruit vinegars, lemon juice, honey, nuts, seeds.
Groundnut oil
EAT The refined oil is almost tasteless and ideal when you don’t
want added flavour – for frying everything from chips to fritters,
and general cooking. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Roots and tubers, leafy
greens, onions, meat, fish, poultry, robust herbs like parsley or sage
(fried for garnish).

Grapeseed oil
EAT Widely used in French cookery and in salad dressings, it has a
delicate flavour. Can also be used for frying. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Nuts, seeds, tomatoes, onions, root vegetables, garlic, balsamic,
fruit, and herb vinegars, herbs.
Rapeseed oil
EAT Also known as canola oil. Good for frying and baking.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Meatballs, patties, burgers, fritters, fish and
shellfish, choux pastry (for beignets), onions, potatoes, root
vegetables, apples, pears, bananas, pineapple.

Sunflower oil
EAT Suitable for all cooking and dressings. Cold-pressed is much
earthier. Safflower is from the same family of seeds. Use in the
same way. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Meats, poultry, game, fish,
vegetables, eggs, cream, vinegars, citrus.

Pumpkin seed oil

EAT Toasted has best flavour. Good to finish soups, brush on roast
meats, and in salad dressings. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pork, oily fish,
squashes, balsamic, fruit, and wine vinegars, cherry tomatoes,
cucumber, spinach, apples, berries.
Sesame oil
EAT Nutty taste. Use for Chinese cookery and salad dressings.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Sesame seeds, spring onions, garlic, soy
sauce, honey, Sichuan pepper, beansprouts, peppers, cucumber,
water chestnuts, chicken, fish, shellfish, beef, pork.

Walnut oil
EAT Rich nut flavour and aroma. Use in dressings, drizzled over
cooked vegetables, and for stir-fries. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Nuts and
seeds, pears, apples, cabbage, celery, root vegetables, spinach, blue
and cream cheeses.
Hazelnut oil
EAT Subtle flavour of hazelnuts. Delicious in dressings and
desserts. Don’t use for cooking, as it turns bitter. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Beetroot, cherry tomatoes, shallots, baby leaves, fresh
soft cheeses, raspberries, oats, rice, vanilla.

Truffle oil
EAT White truffle oil is stronger. Drizzle over pasta, risotto, grills,
and omelettes. Gently fry eggs in black truffle oil, then serve on
bruschetta with the oil drizzled over. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Eggs,
pasta, risotto rice, fish, shellfish, game birds, fois gras.

Chilli oil
EAT All chilli oils are pungent. Use whenever you want their spicy
flavour in cooking and dressings. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Tomatoes,
mushrooms, onions, garlic, basil, oregano, cheeses, pasta, beef,
pork, veal, chicken, seafood, citrus, tropical fruits.
Garlic oil
EAT Use for a subtle garlic flavour. Good in dressings, marinades,
and potato dishes. Don’t use for frying. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Potatoes, onions, mushrooms, rice, courgettes, pasta, couscous,
fish, seafood, chicken.

Herb oils
EAT Useful if a particular fresh herb is not available. Don’t use for
cooking at high temperatures. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Most
vegetables, pasta, rice, couscous, polenta, fish, seafood, meat,
poultry, game, cheeses, tropical fruits.
Vinegars
BUY Each vinegar has its own particular flavour
and is not usually interchangeable, so buy a
selection from which to choose. Start with the
ones you will use frequently, like, perhaps,
basic wine vinegars and a good brown and
white balsamic, and then add to the list as
recipes call for them. STORE Most will keep
almost indefinitely in a cool, dark cupboard (but
fruit or herb vinegars usually only 2–3 years).
Naturally produced wine vinegars that have not
been pasteurized may grow a “vinegar mother”
– a cluster of vinegar-producing bacteria. Just
remove it and use it to make your own vinegar
at home.
White wine vinegar
EAT Delicately sour with fruity undertones. Use in dressings for
delicate salads, to make mayonnaise, and to deglaze the pan before
making cream sauces for steaks, chops, and cutlets. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Shallots, baby salad leaves, artichoke hearts, avocado,
cucumber, mushrooms, fennel, beef, lamb, pork, chicken, white
fish, shellfish, white beans, cream, eggs, parsley, sage, lovage,
chervil, olive oil, sunflower oil.
Red wine vinegar
EAT Robust and fruity with a good depth of acidity. Use in most
culinary applications, particularly stronger-flavoured salads, meat,
game, and poultry stews and casseroles. It is also the French choice
for making vinaigrette. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beetroot, carrots, red
onions, green beans, mushrooms, beef, venison, pork, lamb, game
birds, oily fish, pulses, tarragon, parsley, oregano, rosemary, bay,
olive oil, herb oils, toasted seed oils.

Sherry vinegar
EAT Matured for a number of years in wooden barrels. It is full of
dried fruit flavours that are good for robust salads, and to marinate
pork or veal loin before roasting. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pork, veal,
chicken, duck, salmon, mackerel, sardines, root vegetables,
spinach, sorrel, rocket, watercress, radishes, olive oil, nut oils.
Muscat vinegar
EAT Strong aroma and taste of sweet Muscat grapes, from which it
is made. Particularly good in fish and seafood dressings, desserts,
and fruit sauces. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Smoked mackerel, smoked
salmon, lobster, prawns, olive oil, hazelnut oil, chicory, tropical
fruits, apples, pears, strawberries, raspberries, nuts.

Cider vinegar
EAT A strong aroma and flavour of apples. Use instead of red or
white wine vinegar but particularly good with richer meats and
fish. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Duck, chicken, game birds, salmon,
trout, mackerel, herring, sea bass and bream, orchard fruits,
cabbage, shallots, olive, walnut, toasted sesame, and pumpkin oils.
Pickling vinegar
EAT Usually malt vinegar-based, special blends of pickling spices
are infused in it ready for making pickles. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Onions, shallots, cucumbers, beetroot, plums, red and white
cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, tomatoes, peppers, courgettes, beans,
turmeric, mustard powder, garlic, bay leaf, cinnamon, muscovado
and other brown sugars, granulated sugar, honey.

Herb vinegar
EAT Made by infusing the chosen herb in wine vinegar (tarragon
here). Use in dressings and marinades. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Salads, peppers, avocados, mushrooms, fish, shellfish, carpaccios,
fresh cheeses, chicken, olive oil.
Fruit vinegar
EAT Strong flavour of featured fruit (raspberry here). Use for
dressings, drizzles, and marinades. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Duck,
game, avocados, salad stuffs, beetroot, shallots, basil, rosemary,
lavender, parsley, olive, hazelnut, and walnut oils.

Balsamic vinegar
EAT Good balsamic from Modena contains no caramel or
preservatives. Use for drizzles, dressings, savoury sauces, and with
fresh and dried fruits. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cheeses, pulses, fruits,
vegetables, duck, game birds, rich meats, fish, honey, olive oil.
White balsamic condiment
EAT It’s not a vinegar as it does not have a high enough acidity. It
has a sweet, mildly acidic taste. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Fish,
shellfish, chicken, artichokes, white asparagus, chicory, celeriac,
button mushrooms, olive, sunflower, and nut oils.

Chinese white rice vinegar

EAT Tastes similar to white wine or malt vinegar. Use in sweet and
sour dishes, pickles, and as a condiment. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Pork, fish, prawns, chicken, peppers, spring onions, tomatoes,
carrots, pineapple, cucumber, ginger, soy sauce.

Chinese black rice vinegar

EAT Mellow, slightly salty, and smoky. Zhenjiang is the best. Use
as a dim sum dipping sauce, or as balsamic vinegar. Red rice
vinegar is similar but less sweet. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Prawns,
chicken, pork, beef, ginger, garlic, chilli, sesame oil, soy sauce.
Japanese brown rice vinegar
EAT Mellow flavour. Use in dipping sauces and marinades.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Fish, shellfish, chicken, cabbage, daikon,
mizuna, lotus root, edamame, cucumber, peppers, corn, okra.

Japanese rice vinegar

EAT Mix with salt and sugar for sushi vinegar. Add to tempura
batter. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Tofu, seafood, wasabi, ginger, soy
sauce, sushi rice, nori, sesame seeds, cucumber, spring onions.

Malt vinegar
EAT Strong and sour. Traditional condiment with fish and chips.
Use for pickles and chutneys and in some sauces. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Fish, tripe, potatoes, roots, beans, cauliflower,
cucumbers, onions, peppers, fruits, bay leaves, pickling spices.
Flavouring sauces and pastes
BUY Check the labels and avoid those
containing MSG or that have a long list of
additives. For soy sauces, ensure they are
authentically fermented from soya beans. For
vegetable pastes, choose the longest use-by
date. STORE Keep unopened in a cool, dark
cupboard. Once opened, store in the
refrigerator. Most will last 3–6 months.
Tomato purée
EAT Intense tomato flavour. Use generally in soups, stews,
casseroles, and sauces. Look for sun-dried tomato paste, passata
(sieved tomatoes), and the condiment, tomato ketchup. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS All meats, poultry, game, fish, pulses, most vegetables,
cheeses, herbs and spices.

Worcestershire sauce
EAT A smooth sauce with a tangy flavour. Use in traditional British
cookery and in a Bloody Mary. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Tomato juice,
vodka, celery salt, avocados, minced beef, bacon, mushrooms,
mayonnaise, ketchup, Tabasco.
Tabasco
EAT Thin, fiery sauce with a salty, sour taste. A green, milder one
is also available. Use to spice up soups, stews, casseroles, and dips
and add a few drops to a Bloody Mary. Slightly thicker yellow or
orange hot chilli sauce can be used the same way. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Most vegetables, poultry, meat, pulses, cheeses, tomato
juice, vodka, parsley, coriander leaf, celery salt.

Anchovy paste
EAT Intense anchovy flavour. Spread on toast or add a dash to
enhance meat pâtés, casseroles, and fish dishes. Thinner anchovy
essence also available. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beef, venison, pig’s
liver, all fish and seafood, tomatoes.
Tahini paste
EAT Thick, smooth sesame seed paste. Essential in chickpea
hummus, or use thinned with lemon juice as a dip with falafel.
Good in sauces and dressings. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chickpeas and
other pulses, olive oil, citrus, chilli, coriander leaf, mint, oregano,
sesame seeds, yogurt.

Miso
EAT Japanese white or red pastes made from fermented soy with
wheat, barley, or rice. (Red miso shown here). Use in soups (with
dashi – stock made with dried bonito flakes), dressings, sauces,
stir-fries, stews, marinades, and glazes. Miso soup mix, too.
FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Tuna, salmon, monkfish, veal, ham, poultry,
most vegetables, ginger, chilli, garlic.
Soy sauce
EAT Use dark soy in general Chinese cooking but particularly “red”-
cooked dishes. Also good as gravy browning. Use light soy as a
condiment and dipping sauce. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Poultry, all
meats, seafood, vegetables, noodles, rice, eggs, Sichuan pepper,
ginger, rice vinegar.

Tamari
EAT Japanese soy sauce. Use as a dipping sauce and in most
savoury Japanese dishes. Often served with wasabi (the mustardy
paste) as a condiment. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Seafood, chicken,
pork, beef, cabbage, daikon, mizuna, lotus root, edamame,
cucumber, aubergine, peppers.
Oyster sauce
EAT Only mildly fishy. Use to flavour Chinese meat and vegetable
dishes, particularly stir-fries. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beef, pork,
chicken, prawns, aubergines, bean sprouts, pak choi, onions, spring
onions, shiitake mushrooms, bamboo shoots, water chestnuts.

Black bean sauce

EAT Mild or fiery. Use in Chinese stir-fries and steamed dishes.
Add towards the end of cooking. Use yellow bean sauce in a similar
way. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beef, pork, chicken, most vegetables,
garlic, soy sauce.
Sweet chilli sauce
EAT Sweet and thick, good for dipping or in stir-fries. FLAVOUR
PAIRINGS Chicken, beef, pork, fish and shellfish, most vegetables,
noodles, rice, soy sauce.

Mirin
EAT An essential ingredient in teriyaki sauce. Use it to balance the
flavours of Japanese noodle broths, or stirred into a dipping sauce
for tempura. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Poultry, pork, beef, salmon, tofu,
rice, noodles, soy sauce, spring onions, yuzu, sesame seeds.
Nam pla
EAT Thai fish sauce; smells fishy, tastes salty. Add to dressings,
stews, and curries. Asian shrimp paste is stronger, but use the
same way. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Curry pastes, galangal, coconut
milk, beef, chicken, seafood, vegetables.

Sambal oelek
EAT Strong, salty, and tangy chilli paste. Serve as a relish, in
salsas, or to add a kick to many dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS
Chicken, seafood, pulses, root and green vegetables, bean sprouts,
salad vegetables, rice vinegar, white balsamic condiment.
Harissa paste
EAT Fiery chilli paste widely used in North African cookery. Use as
a rub, in marinades, and dressings. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Lamb,
chicken, tuna, salmon, pulses, rice, edamame beans, broad beans,
aubergines, courgettes, peppers, tomato purée.
Make fresh chicken stock

1 Roast chicken bones in the oven for 20 minutes at 200°C

(400°F/Gas 6). This will intensify the flavour and colour of the
broth.

2 Transfer the bones to a large saucepan. Discard the fat from the
roasting pan, add 500ml (16fl oz) water, and bring to the boil.
3 Pour the boiling liquid from the roasting pan over the bones and
add a further 2 litres (31⁄2 pints) water.

4 Skim off the foam with a ladle or slotted spoon. Add stock
vegetables and simmer for 3 hours, uncovered.
5 Ladle out the stock through a sieve into a bowl. When nearly all
the stock has been removed, upend the bones and vegetables into
the sieve to drain off their remaining liquid.

6 Leave the stock uncovered to cool, then use a ladle or spoon to

skim off any fat that has settled on the surface. Freeze in portions.
Make chicken consommé

1 To make a clarification mixture, whisk 2 egg whites just enough

to loosen them and form a few bubbles. Add 1 tsp tomato purée
and mix.

2 Place finely chopped chicken meat, garlic, vegetables, and

parsley in a bowl, add the egg white mixture, mix, and refrigerate.
3 Combine stock with the clarification mixture in a large
saucepan. Heat slowly, and stir until the stock comes to the boil.

4 Once the stock reaches boiling point, reduce to a gentle simmer

for 1 hour, or until a crust forms. Poke a knife through to check the
clarity.
5 When the consommé is clear and the clarification ingredients
cooked, strain the soup through a sieve lined with muslin.

6 Season the consommé with salt and white pepper to taste, then
garnish with a sprig of fresh chervil and serve.
Make vegetable stock

1 Place chopped carrots, celery, onion, and a bouquet garni into a

large stockpot. Cover with water and bring to the boil. Reduce the
heat and gently simmer the stock for up to 1 hour.

2 Ladle the stock through a fine sieve, pressing the vegetables

against the sieve to extract any extra liquid. Season to taste with
salt and freshly ground white pepper, let cool, and refrigerate for
up to 3 days.
Make fish stock

1 Over a low heat, melt a knob of unsalted butter in a large

saucepan or stockpot. Add fish bones and stir until they smell of
cooked fish, taking great care that they do not burn.

2 Add water, stock vegetables, and seasoning, and bring the liquid
to the boil. Skim away any foam on the surface, and simmer for
30–40 minutes before straining through a fine sieve.
Make beef stock

1 Either use leftover bones from a rib of roast beef, or ask the
butcher for a bag of beef bones. Tip the bones into a large roasting
tin, add a handful of vegetables, and season. Roast for 30 minutes.

2 Add the roasted bones and vegetables to a large deep pan with
some fresh stalks of thyme, rosemary, or a woody herb of your
choice, then pour over enough cold water to cover completely.
3 Bring the liquid to the boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer. Cook
with the lid half-on for about 1 hour, skimming any scum that may
rise to the top of the pan, if necessary.

4 Remove the pan from the heat, then lift the beef bones from the
saucepan and discard. Set a sieve over a large heatproof jug and
pour the liquid through.
Make a classic vinaigrette

1 In a clean bowl, combine 2 tsp smooth Dijon mustard, 2 tbsp

good-quality vinegar (red or white wine, herb, balsamic, or cider),
and freshly ground black pepper.

2 Gradually whisk in 120ml (4fl oz) of extra virgin olive oil, until
completely emulsified. Adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve as
a salad dressing, or in place of a heavier sauce for fish, poultry, or
pasta.
Clarify butter

1 Cut unsalted butter into cubes and place them in a saucepan

over a low heat. Keep watch over the butter and take care that it
does not burn, as this will destroy the sweet flavour.

2 When the milk solids have completely separated from the fat,
skim off any froth and remove from the heat. Carefully pour the
clarified butter into a bowl, trying to keep the milk solids in the
pan.
Make a velouté sauce

1 Sweat 4 finely chopped shallots in 15g (1⁄2oz) unsalted butter over

a low heat. Add 300ml (10fl oz) white wine, and 75ml (21⁄2fl oz)
vermouth.

2 Bring to the boil, stirring, then reduce the heat and simmer,
uncovered, for 25 minutes, or until the liquid has reduced by two-
thirds.
3 Now add 600ml (1 pint) stock, stir, and return to the boil.
Continue cooking it uncovered, over a high heat, for 20 minutes, or
until reduced by half.

4 Add 375ml (13fl oz) double cream, and stir. Bring to the boil, then
reduce the heat and cook until the sauce has reduced by over half.
5 The sauce should now be thick enough to coat the back of a
spoon. If it is still too thin to do so, reduce for a further 5 minutes.

6 Strain the sauce through a fine sieve to remove the shallots, then
serve, or keep warm in a bain marie or double boiler.
Make beurre blanc, noisette, or
noir

1 Place 2 finely chopped shallots, 3 tbsp white wine vinegar, and 4

tbsp dry white wine in a small pan and bring to the boil.

2 Lower the heat and reduce the liquid until only 1 tbsp of it
remains. It should now have a light, syrupy consistency.
3 Over a low heat, add 2 tbsp water, then whisk in 200g (7oz)
chilled, cubed unsalted butter, a little at a time, until it has
emulsified.

4 Season the sauce with salt, white pepper, and lemon juice before
serving. For a smoother sauce, strain through a fine sieve.
5 For beurre noisette, heat 50–75g (13⁄4–21⁄2oz) salted butter for 2
minutes until it turns nutty brown. Add a squeeze of lemon juice.

6 Beurre noir is made in the same way as a beurre noisette, but

cook the butter in the pan for 20–30 seconds longer.
Make béchamel sauce

1 Push 4 whole cloves into a halved small onion. Place them in a

pan with 600ml (1 pint) of full-fat milk and 1 bay leaf. Bring almost
to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 4–5 minutes.
Allow to cool.

2 Melt 45g (11⁄2oz) unsalted butter over a low heat in a separate

pan. Add 45g (11⁄2oz) plain flour, and cook gently for about 30
seconds, using a wooden spoon to stir the mixture into a pale roux.
3 Remove the pan with the roux from the heat. Add the cooled
milk mixture through a sieve, and whisk until the sauce is smooth.
Return to a medium heat and whisk continuously until the sauce
comes to the boil.

4 Reduce the heat, and gently simmer for 20 minutes, or until the
sauce is smooth, thickened, and glossy. Season to taste with salt,
white pepper, and nutmeg. This recipe will make 600ml (1 pint).
Make mayonnaise

1 Whisk 2 egg yolks, 1 tsp Dijon mustard, and 1 tsp vinegar in a

bowl. Pour in 250ml (8fl oz) olive oil, drop by drop, whisking all the
time.

2 Gradually increase the speed of pouring to a steady stream. Once

all the oil has been added, stir in 2 tsp freshly squeezed lemon
juice.
3 If the mayonnaise “splits”, place another egg yolk in a clean
bowl, then trickle in the curdled sauce and whisk together. (see
Save curdled mayonnaise)
Save curdled mayonnaise

1 Curdling may happen because the egg yolks or the oil were too
cold when mixed, too much oil was added, or it was done too
hastily.

2 To save it, simply place 1 egg yolk into a clean mixing bowl, and
very slowly, add in the curdled mayonnaise, whisking
continuously.
3 Continue whisking after each ladleful until the curdled mixture
is completely smooth and incorporated into the new egg yolk.
Make hollandaise

1 In a small pan, boil 2 tbsp vinegar, 2 tbsp water, and 1 tbsp of

white peppercorns. Simmer for 1 minute, or until reduced by one-
third.

2 Remove from the heat and leave to chill completely. Strain the
liquid into a heatproof bowl, add 4 egg yolks, and whisk.
3 Place the bowl over a pan of simmering water. Whisk the
mixture for 5–6 minutes, or until the sauce is thick and creamy.

4 Stand the bowl on a tea towel. Slowly pour in 250g (9oz) of

clarified butter and whisk until the sauce is thick, glossy, and
smooth.
5 Gently whisk in the juice of 1⁄2 lemon, and season to taste with
freshly ground white pepper, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and salt.

6 The hollandaise is now ready, and should be served

immediately. This recipe will make 300ml (1⁄2 pint).
Flavour pairings
In the following section you will find an easy
reference guide to some of the ingredients and
their flavour pairings featured in this book. It is
an ideal at-a-glance guide to how you can
combine textures and tastes to create
wonderful dishes.
 Fish

Fish always needs careful pairing because

subtle flavours can be overpowered by strong
accompaniments.
Anchovy Sherry vinegar, white wine vinegar, shallots,
tomatoes, marjoram, oregano, sage, thyme, parsley, olive oil.

Barramundi Pak choi, lime, chilli, fresh herbs, white wine.

Bonito Sesame seeds, rice vinegar, mirin, cucumber, daikon,
chilli, coriander leaf and seed, potatoes, onions, green peppers.

Brill Bacon, shallots, wild mushrooms, white wine, garlic,

tomatoes, lemon, crab or prawn sauce.

Brown trout Bouquet garni (parsley, thyme and bay leaf tied
together), watercress-flavoured hollandaise sauce, prawns.

Carp Paprika, butter, capers, dill, garlic, parsley, cornmeal,

ginger, rice wine, sesame oil and seeds, fennel.

Catfish Cornmeal, sesame seeds, soured cream, mushrooms,

spring onions, parsley, bay leaf, thyme.

Cod Dill, parsley, bay leaf, lemon, olive oil, tomatoes, olives,
capers, garlic, breadcrumbs, butter, cheese sauce, cider, white
wine.

Coley Butter, milk, beer batter, parsley, chives, bacon, Cheddar

cheese.
Dab Shallot, prawns, mushrooms, parsley, tarragon, lemon,
lime, capers, gherkins, anchovy butter.

Dover sole Butter, lemon, parsley, tarragon, cucumber, mint,

shiitake mushrooms, truffle oil, white grapes.

Freshwater bream Thyme, rosemary, fennel, celery, nut

oils.

Grey mullet Ginger, nutmeg, allspice, chillies, thyme, lemon,

lime, anchovies, tomatoes, onions.

Haddock Parsley, milk, bay leaf, Cheddar cheese, tomatoes,

pea purée, garlic, onions.

Hake Olive oil, smoked paprika, butter, lemon, onions, garlic,

tomatoes.

Halibut Butter, beurre blanc, nutmeg, gherkins, capers, lemon,

bacon, spicy sausages, charcuterie.

Herring Soured cream, dill, onions, oatmeal, bacon,

horseradish, mustard, lemon, capers, parsley.

John dory Garlic, white wine, cream sauces, mushrooms, sage,

capers, lemon, crème fraîche.

Kiln-smoked salmon Eggs, rocket, beetroot, soured cream,

horseradish, cream, chilli, olive oil, lemon, dill.

Lemon sole Béchamel sauce, parsley, chives, lemon, butter,

white grapes.

Ling Onions, garlic, potatoes, leeks, bacon, coriander leaf,

parsley, sage, Cheddar cheese.

Mackerel Basil, olive oil, garlic, onions, horseradish, mustard,

dill, rhubarb, gooseberries.

Monkfish Chorizo, prosciutto crudo, bacon, sage, rosemary,

butter, olive oil, lemon, lime, chillies, capers, mushrooms.

Pike Butter, sage, lemon, cream, bay leaf, white wine.

Plaice Butter, lemon, parsley, sage, thyme, grapes, white wine,
breadcrumb- or rice-based stuffing, chestnut mushrooms,
potatoes.

Pollock Tomatoes, chilli, pancetta, basil.

Rainbow trout White wine vinegar, butter, lemon, chives,
almonds, hazelnuts, Serrano ham, breadcrumbs.

Red gurnard Olive oil, chorizo, pancetta, garlic, leeks, onions,

white wine.

Red mullet Citrus, chervil, tarragon, parsley, carrots, celery.

Salmon Lemon, butter, hollandaise sauce, dill, samphire,
tarragon, ginger, harissa paste, soy, sesame seeds and oil, chilli,
coriander leaf.

Salted dried anchovies Garlic, onions, tomatoes, olives,

cheese, spinach, pine nuts, butter, olive oil, chilli.

Salt cod Olive oil, garlic, parsley, basil, olives, tomatoes,

potatoes, citrus, capers, red peppers, chorizo.

Sardine or pilchard Olive oil, garlic, lemon, sultanas, pine

nuts, parsley, oregano, thyme, tomatoes, peppers, chilli, lime,
lemon.

Scad (horse mackerel) Chilli, ginger, soy sauce, Chinese

five-spice powder, coconut milk, tomatoes, peppers.
Sea bass Black bean sauce, soy sauce, ginger, tomatoes, garlic,
olive oil, red peppers, olives, aniseed flavours like fennel,
caraway, Pernod.

Sea bream Fennel, Pernod, coriander leaf, lemon, saffron,

parsley, garlic.

Sea trout Mayonnaise, watercress, hollandaise sauce, lemon,

dill, parsley.

Skate and ray Beurre noisette/noir, capers, parsley, lemon,

vinegar.

Smoked haddock Spinach, rice, eggs, mild curry powder,

tomatoes, parsley, cheese sauce, poached eggs.

Smoked mackerel Horseradish, mustard, cream and crème

fraîche, cream cheese, honey, sesame oil, dill, coriander leaf,
beetroot, celeriac, waxy potatoes.

Smoked salmon Citrus, horseradish, dill, parsley, scrambled

eggs.

Smoked trout Lemon, horseradish, waxy potatoes, rocket,

watercress, dill, chives, cream, crème fraîche.

Sprat Beetroot, red and white wine vinegar, flat-leaf parsley,

coriander leaf and seeds, lemon.

Sturgeon Horseradish, soured cream, beetroot, vinegar, butter,

citrus.

Tilapia Chilli, palm sugar, nam pla (Thai fish sauce), shrimp
paste, coriander leaf, coconut, galangal.

Tuna Sesame seeds and oil, teriyaki, rice wine vinegar, wasabi,
pickled ginger; tandoori spices, tomatoes, garlic, olives, capers.
Turbot Mushrooms, Champagne, cream, butter, shellfish stock,
lemon, prawns, Gruyère and Parmesan cheeses.

Whiting Tomatoes, chillies, basil, mushrooms, citrus, tartare

sauce.
 Shellfish

The sweet, intense flavours of some shellfish

can take quite robust pairings, while others
need more delicate treatment.
Abalone Shiitake mushrooms, sesame seeds and oil, soy sauce,
ginger, garlic, butter, parsley, oyster sauce.

Brown crab Mayonnaise, chilli, lemon, parsley, dill, potatoes,

butter, Worcestershire sauce, anchovies.

Brown shrimp Butter, lemon, nutmeg, mace, cayenne,

Tabasco.

Clam Cream, onions, garlic, white wine, chives, parsley,

oregano, thyme, bay leaf, tomatoes.

Cockle Malt vinegar, black pepper, salt, parsley, capers,

gherkins, cucumber.

Fresh water crayfish Melted butter, salad leaves,

mayonnaise, citrus.

Frogs’ legs Butter, lemon, garlic, black pepper, Calvados,

cream, apples, and mixed herbs.

Langoustine (Dublin Bay prawn) Mayonnaise, citrus,

tomatoes, garlic, butter, tarragon, lovage, parsley, chives, tartare
sauce.

Lobster Mayonnaise, brandy, white wine, sherry, citrus,

Parmesan, cream, chilli, tarragon, parsley, chives, salad leaves,
shallots.

Mussels White wine, cider, Pernod, butter, garlic, cream,

shallots, ginger, fennel, lemongrass, chillies, parsley, coriander
leaf, dill, rosemary.

North Atlantic prawn Mayonnaise, Marie Rose sauce,

garlic, butter, citrus, chilli, avocados, melon, tomatoes, cucumber.

Octopus Red wine, onions, balsamic vinegar, parsley, sage,

rosemary, paprika, chilli, olive oil, soy sauce, sesame oil, rice
vinegar.

Oysters (Raw) red wine vinegar, shallots, Tabasco, lemon juice;

(Cooked) anchovy essence, butter, spinach, cream, Parmesan
cheese.

Periwinkle Chilli, vinegar, malt vinegar, salt, black pepper,

lemon juice, garlic butter, watercress.

Razor clam Garlic, butter, parsley, coriander leaf, white wine,

shallots, cream, chilli.

Scallops Bacon, chorizo, black pudding, red peppers, red onion,

olive oil, sesame oil, black beans, spring onions, ginger, chilli,
cream, bay leaf, parsley.

Sea urchin Lemon, black pepper, eggs, cream.

Snails Garlic butter with lemon or rosemary, olive oil with red
wine vinegar and black pepper.

Squid Garlic, turmeric, black pepper, spring onions, chilies,

other seafood, olive oil, breadcrumbs, lemon juice, tomatoes,
mayonnaise.
Tiger prawn Mayonnaise, garlic, chilli, curry spices, capers,
paprika, citrus, butter, tempura dipping sauce, soy sauce,
coconut, sesame seeds.

Whelk Malt vinegar, salt, black pepper, garlic butter, parsley,

tarragon, chives.
 Meat, poultry, and game

From humble sausages to seasonal grouse,

there are many exciting flavouring
possibilities.

Beef and veal

Brisket Mustard, root vegetables, mushrooms, bay leaf, bouquet

garni, rosemary, thyme, parsley.

Chuck or shoulder Onion, garlic, tomatoes, mushrooms,

peppers, aubergines, carrots, celery, Indian curry spices, Thai red
curry paste, star anise, chilli, cinnamon, ginger.

Fillet steak Any of the other steak flavourings, liver pâté, port
sauce, oysters (stuff with, before grilling), soy sauce, oyster sauce,
ginger, Cajun spices, garlic.

Oxtail Bacon, celery, parsnips, carrots, swede, onions,

peppercorns, nutmeg, cumin, allspice, mustard, red wine, brown
ale, soy sauce.

Rump steak Fried onions, potato chips, mushrooms, French

mustard, red wine sauce.

Silverside Mustard sauce, carrots, parsnips, onions, red wine,

cinnamon, olives, tomatoes.

Sirloin joint English mustard, horseradish sauce or relish,

Yorkshire puddings, root vegetables.
Sirloin steak Peppers, onions, olives, savoury butters (see T-
bone), green or black peppercorn sauce, béarnaise sauce.

T-Bone steak Savoury butters – anchovy, parsley, mixed herb

and garlic, oregano, chilli.

Veal escalope Egg and breadcrumbs, Parmesan, ham and

melting cheeses, cream, mushrooms, sorrel, spinach, gherkins,
capers, tomato sauce, potato salad.

Veal loin chop Tarragon or parsley butter, garlic and

rosemary, white wine, cream, brandy, lemon, shallots.

Veal osso buco Tomatoes, white wine, gremolata (chopped

parsley, garlic, anchovy fillets, lemon zest), risotto alla milanese.

Lamb and goat

Goat, diced Yogurt, curry powder, fenugreek, chilli, vinegar,

honey, soy sauce, spring onions, root vegetables.

Goat leg steak Cinnamon, cumin, ginger, allspice, jerk

seasoning, onions, oranges, redcurrant jelly.

Goat, whole kid Red wine, olive and nut oils, chilli oil,
cumin, cinnamon, garlic, honey, mint, oregano, onions, leeks.

Lamb kidney Cream, shallots, mushrooms, lemon, brandy,

sherry, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, tomatoes, sausages,
bacon.

Lamb leg Garlic, oregano and potatoes (Greek-style slow-roast),

mint sauce/jelly, redcurrant jelly, roast onions or leeks, onion
sauce, celery, carrots, paprika, flageolet beans.

Lamb loin chops Mint jelly, tomatoes, onions, garlic,

oregano.

Lamb neck Mint, oregano, garlic, cinnamon, star anise, dried

fruit, haricot beans, spring onions, dill, lemon.

Lamb noisettes Red wine, port, redcurrants, rosemary,

lemon, garlic.

Lamb shank Turnips, carrots, celery, leeks, tomato purée,

redcurrant or mint jelly, white, red, or rosé wine.

Lamb rack Garlic, rosemary, mint, honey, olives, harissa paste,

aubergines, yogurt, baby spring vegetables.

Mutton shoulder Caper sauce (boiled mutton), turnips,

carrots, leeks, onions, yogurt, aubergine, cinnamon, apricots,
prunes, raisins, curry spices, oregano, mint, rosemary, pearl
barley.

Pork

Belly Fennel or dill seed, garlic, juniper berries, wholegrain

mustard, caramelized onions, red cabbage, raisins, cider, white
wine, barbecue sauce, sweet and sour sauce.

Fillet Garlic, oregano, sage, chorizo, salami, prunes, apricots,

spinach, mushrooms, spring onions, beansprouts, bamboo
shoots, soy sauce, ginger.

Leg joint Apple sauce, sage and onion stuffing, English

mustard, sweet and sour sauce, curry spices, vinegar, cabbage,
caraway, dried beans.

Leg steak Egg and breadcrumbs (schnitzels), rosemary, sage,

garlic, citrus, ham, cheese, lychees.
Liver Sage, onions, bacon, juniper berries, hazelnuts,
watercress, brandy, mushrooms, red wine, cider, root vegetables.

Loin chop Apples, pears, plums, oregano, marjoram, cider,

perry, or white wine, coriander seeds, wholegrain mustard, crème
fraîche.

Ribs Barbecue sauce, chilli, soy sauce, honey, citrus, pineapple,

Worcestershire sauce, tomato, Chinese five-spice powder.

Poultry

Chicken breast Thai green curry paste, coconut, nam pla,

ginger, oyster sauce, black bean sauce, bacon/pancetta, chorizo,
prawns.

Chicken breast quarter As for leg quarter, but also fried

bananas, bacon rolls, and corn cobs.

Chicken drumstick Butter, olive oil, garlic, barbecue sauce,

sweet and sour sauce, cumin, garam masala, curry paste, harissa
paste, chilli, Worcestershire sauce, honey, lemon.

Chicken leg quarter Cajun or curry spices, thyme, tarragon,

chives, garlic, lardons, red or white wine, mushrooms, tomatoes.

Chicken supreme Butter, herbs, garlic, cream, white wine,

brandy, white grapes, mushrooms.

Chicken thigh Curry spices, pesto, olive oil, herbs, garlic,

mirepoix.

Chicken, whole Sage and onion or parsley and thyme

stuffing, lemon, honey, barbecue sauce, Cajun spices, tandoori
spices, paprika, bread sauce, redcurrant jelly, cider, white wine.
Chicken wing Chinese five-spice powder, soy sauce, barbecue
sauce, jerk seasoning, Cajun spices, garam masala.

Duck breast Berries, currants, pomegranate, baby leaves,

cherry tomatoes, cucumber, red onion, olives, fruit vinegar, olive
oil, pomegranate syrup.

Duck crown The same as for the whole bird, but try rubbing
with smoked sea salt before cooking.

Duck leg portion As for duck breast, plus juniper berries,

coriander seeds, thyme for confit.

Duck, whole Sage, onions, garlic, spring onions, apples,

oranges, turnips, ginger, cherries, soy sauce, hoisin sauce, honey,
vinegar, wine, peas, baby white onions, lettuce.

Goose, whole Apples, onions, red cabbage, tomatoes, white

beans, spicy sausages, ginger, sage, oatmeal, almonds, apricots,
prunes, soy sauce, red wine.

Poultry liver Butter, garlic, shallots, woody herbs, bacon,

eggs, truffles, figs, prunes, Sauternes, sherry.

Poussin Bacon, garlic, shallots, tomatoes, mushrooms, lemon,

lime, saffron, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, rosemary, thyme,
tarragon, bay leaf, soy sauce, white wine, barbecue sauce.

Turkey crown As for whole bird, but also pancetta, garlic

butter, tarragon butter, pesto, tapenade.

Turkey steak Ham, cheese (for topping), peppers, tomatoes,

mushrooms, sage, tarragon, thyme, parsley, chives, oregano,
redcurrant jelly.

Turkey, whole Chestnuts, cranberries, thyme, parsley, sage,

tarragon, bacon, sausagemeat, root vegetables.
 Game

Grouse Bacon, ham, celery, shallots, watercress, wild

mushrooms, game chips, bread sauce, buttered crumbs, oranges,
honey, juniper berries, redcurrants, cranberries, whisky, wine.

Mallard Ginger, garlic, mushrooms, onions, swede, coriander

leaf, parsley, sage, apples, bitter oranges, plums, cherries,
redcurrants, cider, red wine, soy sauce.

Partridge Bacon, cream, cabbage, watercress, lentils, shallots,

wild mushrooms, grapes, citrus, pears, quinces, redcurrants,
chestnuts, walnuts, turnips, kohl rabi, juniper berries, sage,
chocolate, wine.

Pheasant Bacon, cream, celery, onions, cabbage, sage, apples,

quinces, bitter oranges, prunes, walnuts, beetroot, Jerusalem
artichokes, game chips, bread sauce, buttered crumbs, Calvados,
brandy, wine.

Quail Bacon, butter, cream, sweet peppers, mushrooms,

truffles, quinces, grapes, cherries, prunes, almonds, honey,
cumin, cinnamon, brandy, white and red wine.

Rabbit, whole Bacon, carrots, fennel, celery, sweetcorn,

mushrooms, tomatoes, olives, coriander leaf, parsley, rosemary,
thyme, lemon, prunes, mustard, soy sauce, cider, white wine.

Teal Apples, bitter oranges, sage, thyme, white wine, peas,

onions and lettuce (for braising), cider, spring onions, hoisin and
plum sauce, soy sauce, ginger, garlic.

Venison fillet or tenderloin Bacon, pears, cream, fennel,

red cabbage, pomegranate, red berries, pine nuts, red wine,
vermouth.
Venison rolled haunch Guinness, red wine, port,
redcurrant jelly, prunes, juniper berries, bay leaf, thyme, cream,
chanterelle mushrooms.

Woodcock Butter, bacon, cream, shallots, garlic, watercress,

ginger, bay leaf, parsley, thyme, nutmeg, lemon, apples, grapes,
soy sauce, Madeira.

Wood pigeon Bacon, cream, red cabbage, mushrooms,

spinach, chilli, garlic, orange, redcurrants, blueberries, juniper
berries, chocolate, honey, soy sauce, red wine.

Cured and air-dried meats

Bacon Chicken, game, prunes, oysters, sausages, kidneys, liver,

oily and white fish, scallops, prawns, eggs, cheese, cauliflower,
potatoes, tomatoes, avocados, mushrooms, spinach.

Bresaola Olive oil, tomatoes, Parmesan, gherkins, olives,

celeriac rémoulade, rocket, mozzarella, rustic bread.

Gammon/ham Eggs, pineapple, dried fruits, mustard, cloves,

honey, onion, bay leaf, parsley sauce, butter beans, carrots,
tomatoes, eggs, cheeses.

Jambon de Paris French and wholegrain mustard, Gruyère

cheese, chips, buckwheat crêpes, eggs, tomatoes.

Jamón ibérico Fino sherry (chilled), rustic bread, asparagus,

scrambled eggs, baby broad beans, tomato and garlic bread (pan
con tomate).

Jamón serrano Olives, gherkins, manchego cheese, figs,

rustic bread, nutmeg, eggs, red wine.

Pancetta Parmesan, asparagus, tomatoes, chilli, bacon, onions,

garlic, eggs, cream, white beans.

Prosciutto crudo Parmesan, mozzarella, gherkins, figs,

melon, asparagus, tomatoes, olives.

Sausages

Beef sausage Onions, root vegetables, tomatoes, peppers, red

beans, oregano, paprika, chilli, cumin, coriander seed and leaf,
brown ale, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, barbecue sauce.

Black pudding Scallops, halibut, turbot, lamb, pork, venison,

rabbit, raisins, red wine, chickpeas, white beans, lentils, bacon,
eggs, potatoes.

Boudin blanc Caramelized onions, red wine, brandy, port,

tomatoes, wild mushrooms, spinach, black truffles, cream.

Boudin noir Walnuts, pears, apples, oranges, chestnuts,

cabbage, white wine, red wine, Dijon and wholegrain mustards.

Chorizo Chicken, seafood, pork, mushrooms, peppers,

aubergines, courgettes, pasta, white beans, chickpeas, rice,
chimichurri sauce (parsley, sherry vinegar, oregano, chilli, olive
oil).

Cumberland sausage Mustard, tomato sauce, barbecue

sauce, chilli sauce, shallots, rosemary, red wine, white beans.

Pork sausage Potatoes, white beans, onions, apples, sage,

mustard, tomato ketchup, cider, cabbage, tomatoes, mushrooms,
Yorkshire pudding.

Salame di Genoa Parmesan, mozzarella, rocket, spinach,

tomatoes, olives, gherkins.
Toulouse sausage White beans, belly pork, duck confit,
celery, onions, tomatoes, garlic, cloves, bay leaf, flat-leaf parsley.

White pudding Batter, black pudding, tomatoes, eggs, bacon,

toasted or fried bread, white beans, scallops, halibut or other
meaty fish.
 Vegetables

Vegetables add taste and texture themselves,

but can also be complemented by exciting
flavour combinations.

Cabbages, flowering, and leafy greens

Brussels sprouts Melted butter, chestnuts, walnuts,

hazelnuts, toasted pine nuts, sausages, crispy bacon.

Calabrese Bacon, anchovies, pesto, chillies, cheese or

béchamel sauce, lemon, garlic, pine nuts, olive oil.

Cavolo nero Garlic, onions, peppers, white beans, spicy

sausages, pancetta, potatoes, tomatoes, olive oil, chilli.

Chinese broccoli Oyster sauce, soy sauce, ginger, garlic,

cashew nuts.

Chinese leaves (napa cabbage) Spring onions, ginger,

sambal oelek, garlic, sesame seeds, rice vinegar.

Chinese spinach Toasted sesame seeds, star anise,

mushrooms, eggs, rice, prawns, coriander leaf, chillies, ginger,
garlic.

Common cauliflower Brown butter, Gruyère, blue or

Cheddar cheese (crumbled or in sauce), garlic, olive oil, parsley,
lemon.

Kale Bacon, ham, venison, sausages, oily fish, clams, eggs,

citrus, tomatoes.

Kohl rabi Parsley sauce, star anise, ginger, garlic, tomatoes,

lamb, beef, game birds.

Mustard greens Fish, seafood, ham, pork, chicken, butter,

garlic, soy sauce, rice vinegar, ginger, chillies.

Pak choi Prawns, pork, chicken, spring onions, water

chestnuts, mangetout, cashew nuts, soy sauce, oyster sauce,
coriander leaf.

Purple cauliflower Béchamel sauce, tomatoes, Parmesan

(or other cheeses), bacon.

Purple sprouting broccoli Leeks, tomatoes, chillies,

butter, olive oil, garlic, Parmesan, spring onions, citrus,
hollandaise sauce.

Rainbow chard Nutmeg, spring onions, toasted almonds and

pine nuts, butter, olive oil.

Red cabbage Vinegar, red wine, brown sugar, apples, pears,

raisins, onions, fennel seeds, caraway seeds, bacon, ham, pork,
liver.

Romanesco Olive oil and toasted flaked almonds (to dress),

cherry tomatoes, olives, cream, Italian hard cheeses.

Round green cabbage Carrots, onions, celery, soy sauce,

ginger, garlic, potatoes.

Savoy cabbage Bacon, celery, butter, onions, garlic, tomatoes,

walnuts, hazelnuts.

Spinach Bacon, fish, anchovies, eggs, cheeses, yogurt, cream,

butter, olive oil, garlic, onions, avocados, mushrooms, lemon,
nutmeg, curry spices.

Spring greens Bacon, ham, lemon, onions, potatoes, salt pork,

garlic, Chinese five-spice powder.

White cabbage Mayonnaise, wine vinegar, mustard, caraway

seeds, smoked sausages, pork, ham, carrots, onions, nuts, apples,
celery.

Salad leaves

Butterhead lettuce Peas, baby onions, anchovies, cheese,

mayonnaise, olive oil, lemon juice, mustard, garlic.

Chicory Bacon, ham, prosciutto crudo, blue and Cheddar

cheeses, nuts, garlic, watercress, olive oil, tomato salsa.

Cos (romaine) lettuce Anchovies, eggs, croûtons, garlic,

Parmesan, chicken, onions, citrus, herbs, honey, mustard.

Curly endive (frisée) Olive oil, croûtons, smoked lardons,

red onions, parsley, coriander leaf, chillies, Worcestershire sauce,
poached or soft-boiled eggs.

Dandelion Bacon, cheese, garlic, onions, lemon, mustard, olive

oil, wine or balsamic vinegar.

Escarole (batavia) Balsamic vinegar, fruit vinegars, olive oil,

toasted nut and seed oils, mustard, croûtons, eggs, anchovies,
avocados, pomegranate, raisins.

Iceberg lettuce Seafood, Russian salad, rice or pasta salads,

tabbouleh, minced chicken, pork, veal or liver, soy sauce, ginger,
garlic.

Lamb’s lettuce (corn salad) Onions, croûtons, sweetcorn,

honey, mustard, cherry tomatoes, toasted seeds, pears, avocados,
lardons.

Little gem lettuce Mushrooms, spring onions, garlic, peas,

bacon, Italian hard cheeses, cottage cheese, walnuts.

Lollo rosso Pears, apples, pomegranate, blueberries, cheeses,

walnuts, toasted pine nuts, pumpkin seeds, olive oil, toasted nut
oils, citrus, wine, sherry and cider vinegars, chorizo, salami.

Mizuna Pork, chicken livers, fish, shellfish, ginger, lemon,

sesame oil, olive oil, toasted seeds, tamari.

Purslane Beetroot, broad beans, cucumber, spinach, potatoes,

tomatoes, eggs, feta cheese, yogurt.

Radicchio Pancetta, hazelnuts, walnuts, pine nuts, pumpkin

seeds, Italian hard cheeses, ricotta or feta cheese, balsamic
vinegar, preserved lemons, anchovies.

Red oak lettuce Rocket, chicory, chervil, dandelion, purslane,

olives, tomatoes, red onions, artichokes, avocados, beetroot,
carrots, olive oil, citrus, fruit and wine vinegars.

Rocket Pine nuts, almonds, olive oil, citrus, garlic, hard and
blue cheeses, tomatoes, onions, eggs, potatoes, thyme, basil,
rosemary, oregano, lamb’s lettuce, watercress.

Salad cress Eggs, salmon, sardines, tuna, Cheddar cheese,

cream cheese, tomatoes, cucumber.

Watercress Cucumber, beetroot, goat’s cheese, eggs, salmon,

other oily fish, chicken, duck, oranges, potatoes.

White Swiss chard Ham, garlic, onions, chillies, olive oil,

butter (leaves), hollandaise sauce (stalks).
 Stems, shoots, and flowers

Cardoons Veal, anchovies, olive oil, hard cheeses, butter,

cream, lemon, almonds.

Celery Béchamel or hollandaise sauces, cheeses, onions,

cabbage, lemon, walnuts, apples, pears.

Florence fennel Cheeses, fish, seafood, veal, chicken, dried

and cured meats, citrus, preserved lemon (roasted with), Pernod,
Puy lentils, herbs, mayonnaise.

Globe artichokes Vinaigrette, butter, hollandaise sauce,

herbs, cured and dried meats, anchovies, shellfish, tomatoes,
chillies, mushrooms, cheeses, cream, garlic, lemon, white truffles.

Green asparagus Olive oil, butter, coarse sea salt, Parmesan

or Grana Padano shavings, balsamic glaze or vinegar, hollandaise
sauce, Mornay sauce, bacon, anchovies, salmon, pesto,
vinaigrette, citrus, eggs.

Hearts of palm Cured and dried meats, shellfish, lime,

vinaigrette, tomatoes, baby salad leaves, soy sauce, wasabi,
sesame oil, ginger, avocados, tropical fruits.

White asparagus Vinaigrette, mayonnaise, garlic, quail’s

eggs, smoked salmon, hollandaise sauce.

Root vegetables and tubers

Anya potatoes Melted butter, pesto, parsley, thyme, mint,

chives, olive oil, mustard, wine vinegar, shallots, grated citrus
zest.

Beetroot Bacon, smoked oily fish, goat’s and other cheeses,

oranges, watercress, baby red chard, baby spinach and rocket,
soured cream, nutmeg, horseradish, dill, caraway.

Carrots Beef, citrus, ginger, celery, chervil, fennel, thyme,

parsley, coriander leaf, watercress, peas, pine nuts, cumin,
cinnamon, mixed spice, other roots, particularly beetroot, honey.

Cassava Butter, garlic, citrus, coriander seeds and leaf, chilli.

Celeriac Bacon, beef, oily fish, cheeses, garlic, potatoes,
parsley, dill, olive oil, mustard, tomatoes.

Charlotte potatoes Melted butter, mint, chives, parsley,

mayonnaise, yogurt, olive oil, anchovies, citrus.

Desirée potatoes Cumin, cajun spices, nutmeg and seeds (to

coat wedges), eggs, onions, mushrooms, butter, olive and nut oils.

Jersey Royal potatoes Melted butter, mint, parsley, chives,

thyme, spring onions.

Jerusalem artichoke Béchamel or hollandaise sauce, butter,

cream, ginger, nutmeg, lovage, parsley, lemon juice, spring
onions, crispy bacon, pheasant and other game.

Jicama Chilli, lime, avocados, mangos, onions, tomatoes,

coriander leaf.

King Edward potatoes Butter, milk, chives, rosemary,

celeriac, leeks, onions, spring onions, garlic, olive oil, lemon, hard
cheeses.

Lotus root Citrus, garlic, onions, coriander leaves, chervil, star

anise.

Maris Piper potatoes Butter, chives, parsley, curry spices,

mayonnaise, tomato ketchup, malt vinegar, sea salt.
Nicola potatoes Cream, crème fraîche, yogurt, garlic,
nutmeg, Gruyère, Cheddar and blue cheeses, mayonnaise, French
dressing, shallots, ham, bacon, pickled, salted and smoked fish.

Parsley root Chicken, fish, game, eggs, mushrooms, carrots,

potatoes, turnips.

Parsnip Butter, curry powder, nutmeg, garlic, parsley, thyme,

tarragon, potatoes, beef, walnuts.

Radish Smoked fish, cheese, potatoes, spring onions, chives,

parsley, citrus, vinegar, chilli, star anise.

Salsify Italian hard cheeses, béchamel sauce, onions, shallots,

olive oil, lemon, nutmeg, bacon.

Scorzonera White wine, hard cheeses, cream, breadcrumbs,

parsley, Parma ham.

Swede Bacon, liver, onions, carrots, cream, butter, lemon, black

pepper, nutmeg, thyme.

Sweet potatoes Apples, brown sugar, molasses, ginger, maple

syrup, honey, citrus, chilli, nutmeg, Cajun spices, thyme.

Taro Sweet potatoes, chilli, star anise, cinnamon, cardamom,

toasted sesame oil.

Turnip Lamb, bacon, duck, goose, game, cheese, apples,

mushrooms, potatoes, sherry.

Water chestnut Prawns, beef, chicken, pork, pak choi, oyster

sauce, soy sauce, ginger, garlic, sesame oil.

Yams Eggs, cheese, cream, curry powder, coconut, lime.

 Squashes, cucumbers, and chayote

Acorn squash Cheddar, blue cheeses, Gruyère, eggs, garlic,

ginger, maple syrup, honey, sage, thyme, apples, pears, quinces.

Bitter melon squash Pork, fish, shellfish, soy sauce, ginger,

garlic, spring onions, black bean sauce, oyster sauce.

Bottle gourd Coconut milk, tamarind, mustard seeds, curry

leaves, cumin, coriander seeds and leaf, ginger, chilli, star anise,
tomatoes, onions, garlic, red lentils.

Burpless slicing cucumber Yogurt, mint, coriander leaf

and seeds, toasted cumin seeds, garlic, spring onions, watercress,
mayonnaise.

Butternut squash Goat’s cheese, Cheddar, Gruyère, and blue

cheeses, garlic, ginger, maple syrup, honey, apples, pears, sage,
thyme, rosemary, beetroot.

Chayote Fish, shellfish, rice, garlic, onions, soft and hard

cheeses, chillies.

Common greenhouse cucumber Vinegars, yogurt, dill,

garlic, milk (for soup), anchovies, cream cheese, feta cheese,
fennel, mint, mayonnaise, tomatoes, chillies, avocado, tropical
fruits.

Courgettes Olive oil, coarse sea salt, sweet peppers,

aubergines, onions, garlic, tomatoes, curry spices, basil, parsley.

Crookneck squash Olive oil, butter, cream, Cheddar,

Gruyère, Parmesan, bacon, white beans, tomatoes.

Crown Prince squash Butter, eggs, nutmeg, cinnamon,

mixed spice, muscovado sugar, sage, onions, ricotta cheese.
Gherkins (cornichons) Capers and caperberries,
mayonnaise, parsley, thyme, tarragon, chervil, chicken, poultry
and pig’s livers, pork, salt beef, most fish.

Marrow Sausage, mince or rice and herbs for stuffing,

tomatoes, melted butter, hard cheeses, béchamel sauce, thyme,
oregano, sage, parsley.

Pattypan squash Melted butter, olive oil, garlic, cumin,

coriander, thyme, basil, parsley, bacon, breadcrumbs, chickpeas,
hard cheeses.

Pickling cucumber Rock salt, malt or white wine vinegar,

coriander seeds, yellow mustard seeds, dried chillies, allspice,
ginger, black peppercorns, bay leaf, dill, white onions.

Pumpkin Blue and Cheddar cheeses, toasted pumpkin oil,

butter, pumpkin seeds, walnuts, sage, rosemary, thyme, ginger,
nutmeg, cinnamon, cumin, tomatoes.

Red onion squash Red onions, chestnuts, garlic, olive oil,

butter, nigella seeds, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves.

Ridge cucumber Malt, balsamic, or red wine vinegar, black

pepper, fish, shellfish, cheese sauce, soy sauce, garlic, ginger,
cream cheese, root vegetables, spring onions.

Round squash As for courgettes, or try prawns or crab and

rice stuffing with dill, parsley, and lemon zest.

Spaghetti squash Fresh tomato sauce, bolognese sauce, olive

oil, melted butter, Parmesan, anchovies, mushrooms.

Turk’s turban squash Butter, olive oil, Cheddar or goat’s

cheeses, breadcrumbs, rice, onions, sage, thyme, cream, bacon,
ham.
 Onions, shallots, leeks, and garlic

Baby leeks Olive oil, chillies, Parmesan, anchovies, toasted

pine nuts, almonds and pumpkin seeds, sun-dried tomatoes,
basil, thyme, parsley, olives.

Banana shallot Butter, balsamic vinegar, white balsamic

condiment, red wine, white wine, cream, wild mushrooms, sorrel,
thyme, parsley, mussels and other fish and seafood, chicken.

Brown onions Bacon, liver, sausages, steak, lamb, pork, game,

fish, curry spices, herbs, tomatoes, all vegetables, cheeses.

Dry garlic Any meat, poultry or game, fish, shellfish, pulses,

most vegetables, herbs, spices, mayonnaise, cheeses, soured
cream, yogurt, walnuts, pine nuts.

Elephant garlic Olive oil, coarse sea salt, butter, wine, cream,
mushrooms, thyme, parsley.

French grey shallot Red wine vinegar, oysters, mussels,

beef, chicken, red wine, lardons, carrots, celery, cream, white
wine, sherry, fennel, parsley.

Green garlic Tomatoes, soft cheeses, mayonnaise, yogurt,

crème fraîche, soured cream, olives, basil, pine nuts, white wine,
white balsamic condiment, olive oil, fresh chillies.

Leeks Fish, lamb, chicken, cream, cheese, parsley, potatoes,

lemon, olive oil, sage, thyme, fennel, chillies.

Pickling/pearl onions Malt, white or balsamic vinegar,

coriander seeds, yellow mustard seeds, dried chillies, black
peppercorns, bay leaf, milk, cream, red and white wine, beef,
lardons, chicken, pork, lamb, game, fish, peas, cheese, ham.

Red onions Fresh and sun-dried tomatoes, peppers,

aubergines, squashes, avocados, bacon, lentils, chickpeas,
cheeses, oily fish, basil, thyme, bay leaf.

Round shallot Malt or balsamic vinegar, coriander seeds,

yellow mustard seeds, black peppercorns, cinnamon, chillies, bay
leaf.

Spring onions Thai red and green curry pastes, galangal,

lemon grass, nam pla, eggs, potatoes, meat, chicken, fish, most
cheese.

Tree onion (Egyptian onion) Beef, chicken, game,

cheeses, celery, bay leaf, sage, parsley, pickling spices, malt and
red wine vinegar.

White onions Tempura and beer batters, veal, chicken, lamb,

sage, parsley, thyme, risotto rice, white beans, white wine,
spinach, tomatoes.

White salad onions Cream cheese, cottage cheese, soured

cream, crème fraîche, yogurt, radishes, cherry tomatoes, chicken,
fish, shellfish.

Wild garlic Olive oil, pine nuts, Parmesan, parsley, thyme,

potatoes, onions, sorrel, rocket, tomatoes, water chestnuts,
beansprouts, soy sauce, ginger.

Peas, beans, and other pods

Baby corn Baby vegetables, sesame oil, soy sauce, chicken,

fish, duck, gammon, garlic, butter, olive oil.

Broad beans Bacon, ham, fish, lamb, chicken, game, spinach,

onions, cream, béchamel sauce.

Edamame beans Coarse sea salt, harissa paste, lamb,

chicken, fish, soy sauce, ginger, garlic, chillies.

French beans Eggs, shallots, red wine vinegar, olive oil,

tomatoes, garlic, olives, oily fish, new potatoes.

Garden peas Bacon, ham, fish, duck, baby onions, lettuce,

mint, thyme, chervil, mushrooms.

Helda beans Citrus, melted butter, walnuts, nut oils, toasted

sesame seeds, tomatoes.

Mangetout Almonds, chicken, mushrooms, soy sauce, garlic,

ginger, sherry, rice wine, Chinese five-spice powder.

Okra Butter, garlic, chillies, curry spices, coconut, green

peppers, tomatoes.

Runner beans Bacon, mushrooms, onions, tomatoes, red

wine vinegar, honey, olive oil, cashew nuts.

Sugar snap peas Toasted sesame seeds, chillies, sesame oil,

ginger, soy sauce, soft cheeses, oyster mushrooms, radishes,
mint.

Sweetcorn Bacon, potatoes, butter, cheese, cream, chillies,

citrus.

Yellow wax beans Tomatoes, garlic, onions, olive oil,

chorizo, mushrooms.

Vegetable fruits

Aubergine Ham, lamb, beef, mozzarella, feta, hard cheeses,

garlic, mushrooms, tomatoes, sweet peppers, lemon, oregano,
mint, thyme, chillies, olive oil, cinnamon, curry spices.
Avocado Parma ham, mozzarella, bacon, prawns, tomatoes,
spinach, grapefruit, lime, mango, lemon, pineapple, sugar,
balsamic vinegar, chillies.

Beefsteak tomatoes Mozzarella, Parmesan, eggs (bake

inside), olives, anchovies, pesto, pine nuts, almonds, rustic bread,
green garlic, peppers, courgettes, aubergines, avocados, basil,
oregano, marjoram, chervil.

Bell peppers Chicken, lamb, beef, pork, anchovies, garlic,

onions, sweetcorn, tomatoes, olives, capers, cheeses, rosemary,
oregano.

Cherry tomatoes Salad leaves, cucumber, celery, olives,

pumpkin and sunflower seeds, red onions, basil, oregano, olive
oil, balsamic vinegar, goat’s cheese, mozzarella, rocket.

Hungarian hot wax chilli Beef, pork, lamb, chicken,

seafood, cream cheese, hard cheeses, thyme, sage, tomatoes.

Jalapeño chilli Beef, spicy sausages, noodles, sweet peppers,

courgettes, aubergines, peanuts, cashews, tomatoes, mozzarella,
cream cheese, sheep’s cheese.

Pimientos de Padrón Olive oil, sea salt, crusty bread.

Plum tomatoes Basil, oregano, bay, chervil, onions, garlic,
bacon, olive oil, oranges, celery salt.

Romano peppers Chorizo and other spicy sausages, soft

cheeses, chilli, garlic, basil, parsley, chives, capers.

Scotch bonnet chilli Chicken, beef, squashes, potatoes,

sweet potatoes, yam, spring onions, garlic, spinach, allspice, bay
leaf, coconut milk, lime.

Serrano chilli Sweet peppers, potatoes, onions, garlic, dried

chipotle chillies, avocados, tomatoes, coriander leaf, prawns,
steak.

Standard globe tomatoes Bacon, eggs, fish, mushrooms,

cheese, parsley, thyme, oregano, sage, cinnamon, garlic, onions,
chilli, Thai red curry paste, coconut milk.

Thai (bird’s eye) chillies Most spices, coriander leaf, bay

leaf, coconut milk, lime, nam pla, palm sugar, galangal, spring
onions, chicken, beef, pork, lamb, fish.

Mushrooms and truffles

Black (Périgord) truffles Spaghetti, chicken, rabbit, game

birds, celeriac, meaty white fish, shellfish, pancetta.

Brown crimini or chestnut mushrooms Oregano,

parsley, marjoram, chives, parsley, coriander leaf and seeds, curry
spices, Thai spices, red wine, garlic, bacon, onions.

Cep (porcini) mushrooms Risotto rice, pasta, cream,

brandy, white wine, leeks, onions, garlic, Parma ham, Parmesan,
truffle oil, beef, chicken, game, scallops.

Cultivated white button mushrooms Onions, garlic,

tomatoes, coriander seeds and leaf, parsley, oregano, lemon,
cream, crème fraîche, yogurt, white wine, sherry, steaks, chicken.

Enoki mushrooms Chicken, prawns, crab, chicken and fish

broth, cucumber, celery, carrot, soy sauce, garlic, beansprouts,
peppers.

Field mushrooms Bacon, eggs, sausages, steak, venison,

risotto rice, cream, crème fraîche.

Morel mushrooms Butter, olive oil, garlic, asparagus, leeks,

cream, white wine, brandy, eggs, chicken, beef, veal, halibut,
turbot, monkfish.

Open cup or flat mushrooms Garlic, cream, white wine,

herb stuffings, cheese, pâté, bacon, eggs, parsley.

Oyster mushrooms Eggs, chicken, fish or vegetable broth,

noodles, beef, chicken, pork, prawns, crab, spring onions, Chinese
five-spice powder, soy sauce, rice wine vinegar.

Portobello mushrooms Butter, garlic, cream, herbs, white

or rosé wine, halloumi and soft cheeses, cider, tomatoes, spring
onions.

Shiitake mushrooms Pork, chicken, beef, prawns, noodles,

rice, soy sauce, ginger, garlic, spring onions, bamboo shoots,
water chestnuts, beansprouts, chillies, rice wine, oyster sauce.

White (Alba) truffles Eggs, risotto rice, pasta, game birds,

scallops, halibut, monkfish, foie gras, potatoes, olive oil, garlic,
Parmesan.

Wood blewit (Pied Bleu) mushrooms Cream, crème

fraîche, brandy, white wine, rice, pearl barley, lasagne, Italian
hard cheeses, thyme, parsley, marjoram.
 Herbs

Herbs add fabulous fragrance to dishes, but it

is important to choose the right ones for the
job.
Basil Tomatoes, garlic, pine nuts, mozzarella and other cheeses,
eggs, aubergines, haricot beans, courgettes, citrus, olives, peas,
pizzas, potatoes, rice, raspberries, sweetcorn.

Bay Beef, chicken, game, lamb, ham, offal, fish, chestnuts, citrus,
haricot beans, lentils, rice, tomatoes, mushrooms.

Chervil Asparagus, broad beans, green beans, beetroot, carrots,

fennel, lettuce, peas, potatoes, tomatoes, mushrooms, cream
cheese, eggs, fish, seafood, poultry, veal.

Chives Avocados, courgettes, potatoes, root vegetables, cream

cheese, yogurt, soured cream, eggs, fish, seafood, smoked salmon.

Coriander leaf Avocados, cucumber, root vegetables,

sweetcorn, coconut milk, fish, seafood, beef, lamb, pork, poultry,
citrus, pulses, rice, chillies, onions.

Dill (leaves) Beetroot, broad beans, carrots, celeriac, courgettes,

cucumber, potatoes, spinach, eggs, fish, seafood; (seeds) rice,
cabbage, onions, potatoes, pumpkin, vinegar.

Fennel Beetroot, beans, cabbage, leeks, cucumber, tomatoes,

potatoes, duck, fish, seafood, pork, lentils, rice.

Garden mint Lamb, duck, potatoes, peas, carrots, tomatoes,

cucumber, currants, curries, chocolate, yogurt.

Horseradish Apples, beef, baked gammon or ham, sausages,

oily and smoked fish, seafood, avocados, beetroot, red cabbage,
potatoes.

Lavender Berries, plums, cherries, rhubarb, chicken, lamb,

rabbit, pheasant, chocolate.

Leaf celery Cabbage, potatoes, cucumber, tomatoes, chicken,

fish, rice, soy sauce, tofu, soft white cheeses.

Lovage Apples, root vegetables, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes,

courgettes, mushrooms, tomatoes, sweetcorn, Cheddar, Gruyère,
and cream cheeses, eggs, pulses, fish, meat, poultry, rice.

Marjoram Olive oil, feta, mozzarella and halloumi cheeses,

plaice, sole, red mullet, mushrooms, eggs, squashes.

Oregano Lamb, beef, chicken, pork, pulses, chilli, cumin,

coriander leaf, garlic, tomatoes, aubergines, Cheddar, mozzarella,
feta, and halloumi cheeses, olives, peppers.

Parsley Eggs, fish, seafood, chicken, béchamel sauce, lentils,

rice, lemon, tomatoes, garlic, onions.

Rosemary Poultry, rabbit, pork, lamb, veal, fish, eggs, lentils,

squashes, peppers, courgettes, cabbage, potatoes, onions, garlic,
citrus, fruit, cream cheese.

Sage Pork, duck, goose, veal, chicken, liver, sausages, cheeses,

beans, tomatoes, apples, bay leaf, caraway, onions, celery, garlic,
lovage, marjoram.

Sorrel Chicken, pork, veal, fish (especially salmon), mussels,

eggs, lentils, leeks, lettuce, cucumber, tomatoes, spinach,
watercress.
Summer savory Rabbit, chicken, oily fish, cheeses, eggs,
broad and green beans, pulses, beetroot, cabbage, potatoes.

Tarragon Artichokes, asparagus, courgettes, tomatoes,

mushrooms, potatoes, salsify, fish, seafood, poultry, eggs, game,
feta and goat’s cheeses.

Thyme Lamb, rabbit, chicken, turkey, pulses, aubergines,

cabbage, carrots, leeks, wild mushrooms, tomatoes, onions,
potatoes, sweetcorn.
 Spices

For subtlety or a big kick, spices used

judiciously add an extra sensational
dimension to many dishes.
Allspice Aubergines, onions, squashes, root vegetables, white
cabbage, tomatoes, most fruit.

Capers and caperberries Rich meats, poultry, fish,

seafood, globe artichokes, aubergines, green beans, gherkins,
olives, potatoes, tomatoes.

Caraway seeds Duck, goose, pork, breads and cakes, apples,

cabbage, potatoes, root vegetables, tomatoes.

Cardamom pods Apples, oranges, pears, sweet potatoes,

pulses, cinnamon, star anise, cloves.

Chilli Most spices, bay leaf, coriander leaf, parsley, coconut

milk, citrus, meat, poultry, fish, seafood, pulses, tomatoes,
avocados, mangoes, papayas, chocolate.

Cinnamon Lamb, poultry, aubergines, chocolate, coffee, rice,

almonds, apples, apricots, bananas, pears, other sweet spices.

Cloves Ham, pork, duck, venison, orchard fruits, beetroot, red

cabbage, carrots, onions, oranges, squashes, chocolate, cinnamon.

Coriander seeds Cumin, chicken, pork, ham, fish, orchard

fruits, citrus, mushrooms, onions, potatoes, pulses.
Cumin Coriander seeds and leaf, chilli, oregano, chicken, lamb,
hard and soft cheeses, most vegetables, pulses.

Curry leaves Lamb, fish, seafood, lentils, rice, most

vegetables, cardamom, chilli, coconut, coriander leaf, cumin,
fenugreek seed, garlic.

Fenugreek Green and root vegetables, chillies, garlic, fish,

chicken, lentils.

Galangal Chicken, fish, seafood, chilli, coconut milk, fennel,

garlic, ginger, lemongrass, lemon, kaffir lime leaves, shallots,
tamarind.

Ginger Fish, seafood, meat, poultry, most vegetables, chilli,

coconut, garlic, citrus, soy sauce, orchard fruits, rhubarb.

Juniper berries Red meats, game, goose, apples, celery,

cabbage, caraway, garlic, marjoram, rosemary, savory, thyme.

Kaffir lime leaves Pork, poultry, fish, seafood, mushrooms,

noodles, rice, green vegetables, coconut, tropical fruits.

Lemongrass Beef, chicken, pork, fish, seafood, noodles, most

vegetables, Thai or European basil, coriander leaves, chilli,
galangal, cinnamon, cloves, turmeric, coconut milk.

Mace Chicken, lamb, veal, milk, eggs, cheeses, carrots, onions,

pumpkin, spinach, sweet potatoes, other sweet spices, bay leaf,
thyme.

Mustard seeds Beef, rabbit, sausages, chicken, fish, ham,

seafood, strong cheeses, cabbage, root vegetables, curries, dals.

Nigella seed Allspice, cumin and sesame seeds, coriander

leaf, star anise, pulses, rice, roots and tubers.
Nutmeg Chicken, veal, lamb, cabbage, onions, roots and tubers,
squashes, spinach, cheeses, eggs, milk, rice, couscous, semolina,
cardamom, other sweet spices.

Paprika (sweet/hot) Beef, veal, chicken, duck, vegetables;

(smoked) sausages, pork, fish, onions, pulses, eggs.

Peppercorns Meat, poultry, game, fish, seafood, vegetables,

oils, herbs, spices, salts, some fruits (especially strawberries).

Poppy seed Aubergines, green beans, cauliflower, courgettes,

potatoes, bread, honey.

Preserved lemons Lamb, chicken, fish, rice, cardamom,

cloves, allspice, pepper, ginger, cinnamon, coriander leaf, fennel,
celery, olives.

Saffron Chicken, game, fish, seafood, eggs, asparagus, leeks,

mushrooms, spinach, squashes, mayonnaise (as rouille).

Sichuan pepper Black beans, chilli, citrus, garlic, ginger,

sesame oil and seeds, soy sauce, star anise.

Star anise Chicken, beef, oxtail, pork, fish, seafood, tropical

fruits, figs, pears, leeks, pumpkin, root vegetables, chilli,
cinnamon, coriander seed, fennel seed, garlic, ginger.

Sumac Chicken, lamb, fish, seafood, aubergines, chickpeas,

lentils, onions, pine nuts, yogurt, coriander, mint, parsley.

Tamarind Chicken, lamb, pork, fish and shellfish, lentils,

mushrooms, peanuts, most vegetables, chilli, coriander leaf,
cumin, galangal, garlic, turmeric, mustard, soy sauce, palm sugar.

Turmeric Meat, poultry, fish, eggs, aubergines, beans, lentils,

rice, root vegetables, spinach.
Vanilla pods Lobster, scallops, mussels, chicken, milk- and
cream-based desserts, chocolate, apples, melons, pears, rhubarb,
strawberries.
 Fruit

Fruit complements so many sweet and

savoury foods, adding colour, texture, and
depth of flavour.

Orchard Fruits

Asian pears Beef, papaya, mango, lime, chilli, soy sauce,

ginger, cardamom, star anise, rice vinegar, honey.

Bramley apples Citrus, almonds, berries, rhubarb, pears,

quinces, dried fruit, cinnamon, cloves, mixed spice, nutmeg,
vanilla, honey, syrup, demerara sugar, chocolate.

Comice pear Pork, duck, goose, apples, raisins, cinnamon,

cloves, ginger, walnuts, goat’s and blue cheeses.

Conference pear Game, pork, blue cheeses, Parmesan,

rocket, watercress, tarragon, celery, walnuts, almonds, cinnamon,
ginger, star anise, cardamom, chocolate, vanilla, butterscotch.

Cox’s Orange Pippin apples White or red cabbage,

walnuts, almonds, pine nuts, sunflower seeds, fresh and dried
fruits, celery, lovage, mayonnaise, vinaigrette, ginger.

Fig Cured meats, yogurt, cream, cheeses, nuts, star anise,

marzipan, fortified wine.

Granny Smith apples Cinnamon, mixed spice, cloves,

walnuts, almonds, raisins, sultanas, cabbage, cheeses, chicken,
pork, duck, game, black pudding, cider, Calvados.
Loquat (Nisperos) Poultry, prawns, goat’s cheese, vanilla ice
cream, apples, pears, citrus, ginger, spirits.

Medlar Meat, game, hard cheeses, cinnamon, nutmeg, mixed

spice, star anise, red or white wine.

Quince Lamb, pork, chicken, game, hard cheeses (particularly

Manchego), apples, pears, ginger, cloves, cinnamon.

Red Delicious apples All cheeses, celery, grapes, pork or

duck pâté, nuts.

Williams’ pear Red wine, port, brandy, cinnamon, star anise,

cloves, ginger, wine vinegar, white and demerara sugar, maple
syrup, dried fruits.

Stone fruits

Apricots Lamb, pork, chicken, ham, yogurt, cream, custard,

oranges, almonds, rice, ginger, vanilla, sweet white wine,
amaretto.

Black grapes Beef, venison, game birds, cheeses, fruits, red

wine, port.

Cherries Duck, game, almonds, sweet spices, chocolate, citrus,

fromage frais, yogurt, brandy, Kirsch, grappa.

Damsons Sultanas, apples, garlic, light muscovado sugar,

cinnamon, chilli, ginger, pickling vinegar, red wine, custard,
blackberries.

Dates Poultry, lamb, bacon, cheeses, marzipan, nuts, clotted

cream, yogurt, citrus, chocolate.

Dry salt-cured olives Beef, pork, lamb, spicy sausage,

pasta, cherry and sun-dried tomatoes, olive oil, bell peppers,
basil, oregano, parsley.

Green grapes Chicken, poultry livers, rabbit, flat fish, melon,

strawberries, cheeses, walnuts.

Greengages All rich meats and game, ground and flaked

almonds, cinnamon, ginger, Kirsch, amaretto, brandy, cream,
custard.

Kalamata olives White cabbage, tomatoes, cucumber, red

onions, sweet peppers, aubergines, feta cheese, halloumi cheese,
red wine vinegar, olive oil, oregano, preserved lemons, pork,
chicken, lamb, pasta, rice.

Manzanilla olives Dry fino sherry, gin, dry martini,

chickpeas, white beans, chorizo, Serrano ham, squid, prawns,
crab, Manchego cheese.

Nectarines Chicken, gammon, prosciutto crudo, soft white

cheeses like mascarpone, walnuts, almonds, berries, chilli,
cinnamon, vanilla, star anise.

Niçoise-Coquillos olives Tomatoes, onions, garlic,

anchovies, eggs, green beans, new potatoes, courgettes, capers,
caperberries, cinnamon, oregano, herbes de Provence.

Opal plums Brandy, Kirsch, red wine, cream, clafoutis batter,

light muscovado sugar, butter, almonds.

Peaches Beef, duck, soured cream, yogurt, passion fruit,

mangoes, berries, lime, mint, almonds, cinnamon, ginger,
nutmeg, chilli, Champagne, sherry, amaretto.

Picholine olives Chicken, white and oily fish, rabbit,

tomatoes, rice, white wine, sherry, dry vermouth, peppers, white
beans, oranges.
Red grapes Goat’s cheese, Cheddar, Manchego, port,
unblanched almonds, most fruits.

Red plums Meat, game, avocados, tomatoes, red peppers,

cucumber, spring onions, chilli, coriander leaf, lime, garlic, ginger,
soy sauce, rice, red wine or malt vinegar, apples, pears, rhubarb,
strawberries, custard, clotted cream, ground almonds (for
crumble topping and in strudels).

Sloes Juniper, cinnamon, vanilla, gin, vodka, apples.

Stuffed green olives Fish, meat, poultry, cheeses, pasta,
rice, peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic, sweet spices, herbs.

Victoria plums Duck, lamb, pork, gammon, goose, game

birds, chilli, Chinese five-spice powder, ginger, soy sauce, garlic,
onions, pickling vinegar, almonds, cinnamon, custard, cream,
eggs.

Yellow plums Sweet peppers, spring onions, white balsamic

condiment, cucumber, light muscovado sugar, soft fresh cheeses,
fromage frais.

Currants and berries

Blackberries Poultry, game, cream, crème fraîche, yogurt, soft

white cheeses, apples, pears, hazelnuts, raspberries, almonds,
oats, honey, vanilla, cinnamon.

Blackcurrants Mint, rosemary, oranges, apples, pears, honey,

vodka, cassis, white wine, Champagne.

Blueberries Game, cream, crème fraîche, yogurt, citrus,

almonds, pistachios, mint, cinnamon, allspice, plain and white
chocolate.
Cranberries Turkey, goose, pork, gammon, oily fish, apples,
oranges, raspberries, blueberries, nuts, red wine, brandy, port.

Elderberries Game, pork, apples, crab apples, strawberries,

blackberries, lemon, walnuts, cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, cloves.

Gooseberries Goose, pork, mackerel, herrings, Camembert,

cream, lemon, cinnamon, cloves, dill, fennel, elderflowers, honey.

Loganberries Apples, pears, bananas, rhubarb, cream, crème

fraîche, fromage frais, soft white cheeses, yogurt, almonds.

Mulberries Poultry, lamb, game, cream, pears, citrus.

Raspberries Duck, goose, venison, game birds, chicken or
duck livers, cream, crème fraîche, peaches, other berries,
hazelnuts, meringue, almonds, oats, honey, vanilla, cinnamon,
red wine, vodka, raspberry vinegar.

Redcurrants Lamb, goat, venison, turkey, goose, duck, game

birds, raspberries, strawberries, loganberries, mint, cinnamon, red
wine, port, brandy.

Rowanberries Lamb, mutton, goat, venison, poultry, apples,

pears, red wine.

Strawberries Cream, ice cream, curd and other soft white

cheeses, cucumber, oranges, melon, rhubarb, other berries,
almonds, vanilla, chocolate, black pepper.

Whitecurrants Raspberries, blueberries, white chocolate,

rosemary (in jelly), lemon zest (with sugar to eat raw).

Wild strawberries Champagne, white and rosé wines,

vodka, Cointreau, cream, crème fraîche, eggs, custard, bitter
chocolate, red wine and strawberry vinegars.
 Citrus fruits

Blood orange Egg yolks, butter, baby red chard, beetroot,

spring onions, strawberries, raspberries, pineapple, bananas,
lemon, lime, walnuts.

Clementine Shellfish, pork, chicken, duck, spinach, carrots,

sweet peppers, salad leaves, almonds, coriander leaf, chocolate,
meringue, Grand Marnier.

Grapefruit Chicken, gammon, smoked meats, prawns,

avocados, spinach, lemon, mint, ginger, nutmeg, coconut, honey.

Kumquat Shellfish, smoked fish, poultry, ham, pork, duck,

chicory, frisée, celery, spinach, chocolate, cloves, cardamom,
vodka.

Lemon Chicken, veal, fish, shellfish, eggs, butter, artichokes,

garlic, olives, cream, sage, tarragon, coriander leaf and seeds,
capers, olive oil, gin.

Lime Poultry, fish, shellfish, chillies, Tabasco, tomatoes,

avocados, lemons, mangoes, melons, papayas, chocolate, rum,
tequila, mint, coriander leaf.

Minneola Shellfish, pork, duck, chicory, watercress, celery,

rocket, chocolate, cloves, star anise, Cointreau.

Pomelo Shellfish, smoked fish, poultry, ham, pork, chicory,

frisée, celery, spinach, chocolate, cloves, cardamom.

Satsuma Caramel, soft brown sugar, vanilla sugar, brandy,

Grand Marnier, vodka, whisky.

Seville (bitter) orange Duck, pigeon, pheasant, pork,

salmon, tuna, meaty white fish, pancakes, rhubarb, meringue,
lemon, grapefruit, gin, vodka, white rum.
Sweet orange Beef, duck, gammon, liver, scallops, tomatoes,
beetroot, black olives, nuts, soy sauce, cloves, cinnamon, fennel,
carrots, chicory, frisée, button mushrooms, chocolate,
strawberries, brandy.

Tangerine Chicken breasts, pork fillet and chops, tuna,

salmon, scallops, cabbage, carrots, shallots, cream, honey.

Ugli Oily fish, pork, duck, goose, chicory, frisée, rocket, cream,
honey, Kirsch, or sherry (over halves).

Yuzu Toasted sesame oil, sake, oysters, sashimi, fried squid,

crab, poultry, cream, chilli, chocolate, ginger, butter, daikon,
mirin, mango.

Melons

Cantaloupe Coconut (fruit and milk), lime, cucumber, mint,

fresh cheeses like mozzarella.

Charentais melon Tropical fruit, raspberries, strawberries,

mint.

Honeydew melon Parma ham, other cured and smoked

meats, ground ginger, orange, mint, rosemary, cucumber, herb
bread.

Ogen melon Prawns, crab, lobster, ginger wine, raspberries,

framboise liqueur, sorbet, ice cream.

Watermelon Chicken, prawns, crab, feta cheese, beetroot,

sweet melons, apple, berries, lime, chillies, ginger, mint.

Tropical fruits
Custard apple Pork, chicken, citrus, yogurt, cinnamon,
ginger.

Dragon fruit Lime, lemon, other tropical fruits, coconut,

sugar, ginger.

Durian Milk, cream, coconut, other tropical fruits, curry spices,

chillies, sticky rice.

Guava Pork, pheasant, duck, seafood, chicken, cream cheese,

apples, pears, lime, chillies, lemon, coconut, ginger, honey.

Kiwi Gammon, chicken, guinea fowl, squid, salmon, chillies,

oranges, strawberries, other tropical fruit.

Lady Finger banana Butter, corn fritters, bacon rolls, light

muscovado sugar, rum, brandy, Cointreau, coffee liqueur, cream,
crème fraîche.

Lychee Pork, duck, chicken, seafood, chillies, avocados,

raspberries, coconut, cream, lime, ginger.

Mango Chicken, smoked meats, fish, shellfish, green salads,

avocados, lime, lemon, chillies, curry spices, coriander leaf,
vanilla ice cream, sweet sticky rice, rum.

Mangosteen Other tropical fruits, strawberries, lemon grass,

lemon.

Papaya Meat, smoked meats, avocados, chillies, lime, lemon,

coconut, ginger.

Passion fruit Tuna, venison, game birds, cream, yogurt,

custard, oranges, kiwi fruit, strawberries, bananas, peaches, light
muscovado sugar, rum, white and sparkling wine.

Persimmon (sharon fruit) Ham, pork, game, lime, clotted

cream, yogurt, fromage frais, walnuts, ginger, cinnamon, allspice,
nutmeg, honey.

Physalis White fish, scallops, yogurt, other tropical fruits, nuts,

lemon, tarragon, chocolate, Cointreau.

Pineapple Pork, ham, chicken, duck, fish, shellfish, cottage

cheese, coconut, ginger, allspice, cinnamon, black pepper,
Cointreau, rum, Kirsch.

Plantain Chicken, fish, most meats, dried beans, honey, ginger,

butter, sunflower oil, chillies, coconut.

Pomegranate Prawns, lamb, chicken, duck, pheasant,

aubergines, figs, almonds, pistachios, couscous, rice.

Rambutan Pork, duck, avocados, chillies, cream, coconut,

vanilla, ginger.

Red banana Chicken, salad leaves, rainbow trout, red fruits,

pink grapefruit, sweetcorn, rice.

Star fruit (carambola) Poultry, prawns, avocados, red

peppers, other tropical fruits, lime, coconut, lemongrass, nutmeg,
vanilla, honey, rum, salt.

Tamarillo Roast meats, chicken, fish, curry spices, cream, kiwi

fruit, oranges, light muscovado sugar.

Yellow banana Chicken (especially fried), trout, cream,

yogurt, custard, orange juice, lime, coconut, walnuts, chocolate,
coffee, ginger, light and dark muscovado sugar, liqueurs, rum.

Dried and candied fruits

Candied peel Angelica, glacé cherries, other dried fruits,

chocolate, cinnamon, mixed spice, ginger, nutmeg, mace, light
and dark muscovado sugar.

Currants Dark and light muscovado sugars, honey, soft white

cheeses, other dried fruits, ginger, cinnamon, mixed spice,
cardamom, cumin, turmeric, peas, apples, pears, mint, rosemary,
parsley, coriander seed and leaf, basil, rice, citrus.

Dried apple Pork, duck, goose, pheasant, honey, maple syrup,

redcurrant jelly, cider, apple juice, dried pears, hard cheeses.

Dried apricots Cinnamon, star anise, nutmeg, curry spices,

almonds, Brazil nuts, pistachios, walnuts, lamb, pork, chicken,
turkey, goose, duck, game, soft cheeses, yogurt, cream, citrus.

Dried banana Yogurt, fromage frais, oats, soft white cheeses,

wheat, barley, millet, walnuts, coconut, hazelnuts, other dried
fruits, ginger, cinnamon, brandy.

Dried blueberry White and plain chocolate, vanilla,

cinnamon, oats, rice, couscous, pistachios, almonds, walnuts,
honey.

Dried cherry Oats and other grains, white soft cheeses,

almonds, Kirsch, amaretto, cream, plain chocolate.

Dried coconut Curry spices and spice pastes, pulses, all

meats, poultry, fish, dried fruits, tropical fruits, cherries, citrus,
oats and other cereals, rice, noodles, cream.

Dried cranberry Oats, wheat, barley, millet, rice,

breadcrumbs, turkey, duck, goose, pork, chicken, pine nuts,
rosemary, thyme, parsley, onions, honey, maple syrup.

Dried dates Marzipan, walnuts, honey, fruit syrup, golden

syrup, molasses, ginger, cinnamon, allspice, mixed spice, mace,
cooking apples, pears, chocolate.
Dried fig Pork, chicken, duck, goose, game birds, sausages,
cheeses, rum, cider, Pernod, marzipan, star anise, fennel.

Dried mango Coconut, lime, lemon, apples, pears, peaches,

nectarines, strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, vanilla, ginger.

Dried peach Other dried fruits, cheeses, particularly

Gorgonzola, mozzarella, feta and halloumi, ham, duck, game
birds, rice.

Dried pear Blue cheeses, sage-flavoured cheeses, Cheddar,

walnuts, bananas, rice, pasta, peas, mushrooms, ice cream,
custard.

Prunes Chicken, rabbit, pork, beef, venison, game birds, bacon,

cheeses, spinach, other dried fruit, pears, apples, cream, custard.

Raisins and sultanas Oats, wheat, chilli, cinnamon, star

anise, mixed spice, curry spices, coriander leaf, parsley, chives,
mint, honey, rum, cream, most fruits, cabbage, nuts.
Recipe index
MODERN CLASSIC RECIPES
Soups
Bouillabaisse
Lobster bisque
Minestrone
Roast tomato soup
Vichyssoise

Egg and cheese dishes

Eggs Benedict
Cheese soufflés
Quiche Lorraine
Omelette aux fines herbes
Croque monsieur

Fish dishes
Lobster thermidor
Moules marinières
Fisherman’s pie
Salade niçoise
Salmon fishcakes
Sea bass in a salt crust
Scallops with pancetta

Meat dishes
Roast rib of beef
Yorkshire puddings
Crispy roast potatoes
Horseradish sauce
 Beef Stroganoff
Châteaubriand with béarnaise
Steak au poivre
Boeuf bourguignon
Steak and kidney pie
Osso buco
Roast leg of lamb
Mint sauce
Shepherd’s pie
Rack of lamb with flageolet beans and herbs
Roast pork loin
Apple sauce
Pork belly with onions and potatoes
Honey-glazed ham
Cassoulet
Coarse meat terrine
Chicken liver pâté

Poultry and game dishes

Roast chicken
Roast turkey
Roast quail
Chicken cacciatore
Coq au vin
Tandoori chicken
Thai green chicken curry
Seared duck with five-spice and noodles
Crispy roast duck
Chicken tikka masala

Pasta and rice dishes

Pappardelle alla bolognese
 Spaghetti puttanesca
Pasta alla carbonara
Lasagne al forno
Macaroni cheese
Paella
Pad Thai
Smoked haddock risotto
Risotto alla milanese

Side dishes
Ratatouille
Gratin dauphinois
Tabbouleh
Chargrilled asparagus with hollandaise
Roasted vegetables
Chips

Desserts
Apple pie
Chocolate fondants
Bread and butter pudding
Rice pudding
Crème caramel
Crème brûlée
Chocolate mousse
Lemon tart
Pavlova
Blueberry crumble
Pecan pie
Banoffee pie
Summer pudding
Profiteroles
 Tiramisu
Tarte Tatin

Cakes and bakes

Chocolate brownies
Victoria sponge cake
Carrot cake
Black Forest gâteau
Red velvet cupcakes
Madeleines
Shortbread
Scones
Flapjacks
Tuile biscuits
MASTERCHEF RECIPES
Starters
Goat’s cheese and red onion tart
Wonton soup
Thai prawn soup with lemongrass
Open lasagne of roasted squash and wild mushrooms with
sage butter
Roast tomato arancini with a basil-yogurt dressing
Mushroom ravioli with truffle, Pecorino, and sage
Lamb samosas
Scallops with beetroot pearls, black quinoa, and radish and
fennel pickle
Smoked mackerel pâté
Smoked haddock timbale with poached quail’s egg
Crispy squid with green peppercorn and chilli dressing
Sea bass with sweet potato, porcini, Parma ham, and figs
Winkles, cockles, and mussels on toast, langoustines, and
saffron mayonnaise

Main courses
Spinach and ricotta ravioli with walnut pesto and a cream and
basil sauce
Scallop and langoustine tortellini with a prawn bisque sauce
and crackling
Nasi lemak
Spiced battered fish and chips
Mauritian lobster curry with spiced peas
Seared tuna with an Asian glaze
Pan-fried chicken breast with sesame seeds and a mango
hollandaise
Roast Moroccan lamb with couscous and harissa sauce
 Loin of venison with celeriac purée, braised cabbage, and
redcurrant jus
Thai beef massaman curry with jasmine rice
Beef Wellington with mash, creamed Savoy cabbage, and an
oxtail jus

Desserts
Raspberry-blackberry parfait with chocolate mousse
Rice crispie cake with chocolate mousse, cherry sorbet, and
cherries in Kirsch
Exploding lemon macarons
Strawberries with sablé biscuits and orange and lemon
syllabub
Lavender mousse with honeycomb and a blackberry sauce
Pears belle Hélène
Lemon posset with limoncello crumb, lime air, and burnt
grapefruit
Almond panna cotta with poached tamarillos and berries
Hazelnut and raspberry meringue
Pear and butterscotch frangipane tart
Acorn panna cotta with toffee popcorn and pear-hazelnut
millefeuille
White chocolate mousse with raspberry and elderflower jelly
Pear tarte Tatin and candied walnuts with gorgonzola ice
cream
Rhubarb crumble tart with syllabub and rhubarb syrup
Rhubarb tarte Tatin served with mascarpone
Coconut ice cream, almond dacquoise, and coffee caramel
with Thai basil
Chocolate-pistachio salted caramel tart, cinnamon pear, and
Kirsch cream
Banana soufflé with blueberry coulis
Sticky toffee pudding
Dark chocolate and almond torte with amaretto cream,
raspberries, and passion fruit
Baked lime cheesecake with rum cream
Kitchen data
The temperatures below are based on an
electric oven. For a fan oven reduce the
temperature by up to 20°C. If in doubt about
how accurate your oven is, check the
manufacturer’s handbook and it may be wise
to invest in an oven thermometer.
OVEN TEMPERATURE EQUIVALENTS
WEIGHT CONVERSIONS
VOLUME MEASURES
LIQUID VOLUME MEASURES
1⁄ cup
2 120ml (4fl oz)
2⁄ cup
3 150ml (5fl oz)
1 cup 250ml (8fl oz)
2 cups 450ml (15fl oz)
21⁄2 cups 600ml (1 pint)
41⁄4 cups 1 litre (1¾ pints)
DRY MEASURES
1 CUP FRESH BREADCRUMBS 60g 2oz
1 CUP BULGUR WHEAT 115g 4oz
1 CUP FLOUR 115g 4oz
1 CUP COUSCOUS 175g 6oz
1 CUP ICING SUGAR 175g 6oz
1 CUP PEARL BARLEY 200g 7oz
1 CUP BUTTER 225g 8oz
1 CUP UNCOOKED RICE 225g 8oz
1 CUP WHITE/BROWN SUGAR 225g 8oz
British vegetables – what's in
season when
JANUARY FEBRUARY MARCH
beetroot beetroot brussels sprouts
brussels sprouts brussels sprouts cabbages
cabbages cabbages cauliflower
carrots carrots celeriac
cauliflower cauliflower chicory
celeriac celeriac jerusalem
celery celery artichokes
chicory chicory Kale
jerusalem jerusalem leeks
artichokes artichokes lettuce
kale kale onions
leeks leeks parsnips
lettuce lettuce potatoes
onions onions rocket
parsnips parsnips sorrel
potatoes potatoes spinach
rocket rocket spring greens
spinach sorrel swede
swede spinach turnips
turnips spring greens watercress
watercress swede
turnips
watercress
APRIL MAY JUNE
asparagus asparagus asparagus
cabbages broad beans aubergines
cauliflower cabbages beetroot
celeriac cauliflower broad beans
chicory courgettes cabbages
leeks garlic cauliflower
lettuce lettuce courgettes
potatoes potatoes cucumbers
rocket rocket garlic
sorrel sorrel globe artichokes
spinach spinach lettuce
spring greens turnips marsh samphire
swede watercress onions
turnips peas
watercress potatoes
rocket
sorrel
spinach
turnips
watercress
JULY AUGUST SEPTEMBER
aubergines aubergines aubergines
beetroot beetroot beetroot
bell peppers bell peppers bell peppers
broad beans broad beans broccoli
broccoli broccoli butternut squash
cabbages cabbages cabbages
cauliflower cauliflower carrots
courgettes courgettes cauliflower
cucumbers cucumbers celery
fennel fennel courgettes
garic garic cucumbers
globe artichokes globe artichokes fennel
kohlrabi kohlrabi garic
lettuce lettuce globe artichokes
marsh samphire marsh samphire kale
onions onions kohlrabi
peas peas leeks
potatoes potatoes lettuce
rocket rocket marsh samphire
runner beans runner beans onions
sorrel sorrel peas
spinach spinach potatoes
tomatoes sweetcorn pumpkins
turnips swiss chard rocket
watercress tomatoes runner beans
turnips sorrel
watercress spinach
sweetcorn
swiss chard
tomatoes
turnips
watercress
wild mushrooms
OCTOBER NOVEMBER DECEMBER
aubergines beetroot beetroot
beetroot broccoli broccoli
bell peppers brussels sprouts brussels sprouts
broccoli butternut squash cabbages butternut squash cabbages
butternut squash cabbages carrots carrots
carrots cauliflower cauliflower
cauliflower celeriac celeriac
celeriac celery celery
celery chicory chicory
chicory jerusalem artichokes jerusalem artichokes
courgettes kale kale
cucumbers kohlrabi leeks
fennel leeks lettuce
globe artichokes lettuce onions
jerusalem artichokes onions parsnips
kale parsnips potatoes
kohlrabi potatoes rocket
leeks pumpkins spinach
lettuce rocket swede
onions sorrel turnips
parsnips spinach watercress
peas swede
potatoes swiss chard
pumpkins turnips
rocket watercress
runner beans wild mushrooms
sorrel
spinach
swede
swiss chard
tomatoes
turnips
watercress
wild mushrooms
Acknowledgments
Shine TV and Endemol Shine Group would like to
thank:
Frances Adams, David Ambler, Katie Attwood, Alice Bernardi, Martin
Buckett, Claire Burton, Harriet Cary, Bev Comboy, Kerisa Edwards, Jessica
Hannan, Ozen Kazim, Angela Loftus, Lou Plank, Lyndsey Posner, Franc
Roddam, John Torode, and Gregg Wallace.

MasterChef alumni whose recipes and quotes are

reproduced in this book:
Dhruv Baker, Natalie Brenner, Susie Carter, Alix Carwood, Larkin Cen, Ping
Coombes, Jane Devonshire, David Coulson, Lisa Faulkner, Mat Follas, Chris
Gates, Helen Gilmour, Daniel Graham, Steve Groves, Christine Hamilton,
Angela Kenney, Andrew Kojima, Tim Kinnaird, Claire Lara, Jack Lucas,
Marianne Lumb, Liz McClarnon, Hannah Miles, Daksha Mistry, James
Nathan, Andy Oliver, Luke Owen, Shelina Permalloo, Wendi Peters, Tony
Rodd, Alex Rushmer, Dennice Russell, Nadia Sawalha, Emma Spitzer,
Stacie Stewart, Dick Strawbridge, Iwan Thomas, Jaye Wakelin, Steven
Wallis, Dale Williams, and Simon Wood.

Dorling Kindersley would like to thank:

Rosamund Cox and Emma Pinckard for editorial assistance and Elizabeth
Bray for recipe testing. First edition shoot team: William Reavell, Fergal
Connolly, and Jane Lawrie.
 SECOND EDITION
Project editor Lucy Bannell
Editor Amy Slack
Senior art editor Sara Robin
Designer Philippa Nash
Jacket designer Steven Marsden
Pre-production producer Rebecca Fallowfield
Print producer Luca Bazzoli
Creative technical support Sonia Charbonnier
Recipe photography David Loftus
Food stylist Julia Azzarello
Managing editor Stephanie Farrow
Managing art editor Christine Keilty
Art director Maxine Pedliham
Publisher Mary-Clare Jerram

DK India
Project editor Janashree Singha
Project art editor Vikas Chauhan
Managing editor Soma B. Chowdhury
Managing art editor Arunesh Talapatra
Pre-production manager Sunil Sharma
Senior DTP designer Pushpak Tyagi

DIGITAL OPERATIONS, DELHI

Head of Digital Operations Manjari Hooda
Sr. Editorial Manager Lakshmi Rao
Producer Anusua Satpathi
Assistant Producer Chandni Jain

This edition published in 2017

First published in Great Britain in 2011 by
Dorling Kindersley Limited
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL
 A Penguin Random House Company

ISBN: 9780241307267

This digital edition published 2017

ISBN: 9780241333402

Copyright © 2011, 2017 Dorling Kindersley Limited

MasterChef recipes, images, and forewords text copyright
©2017 Endemol Shine Group BV

Endemol Shine, MasterChef and the MasterChef logo are registered

trademarks of Endemol Shine Group BV and used under license. All rights
reserved.

MasterChef is based on a format by Franc Roddam and is produced by

Shine TV for BBC under license from Endemol Shine Group BV in
association with Ziji Productions Limited.

www.masterchef.com

BBC and the BBC logo are trademarks of the British Broadcasting
Corporation and are used under licence. Logo © BBC 1996

Images of John Torode and Gregg Wallace © Cody Burridge

All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into

a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior
written permission of the copyright owner.
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