Chloe Dress
Crochet dresses are fun and easy to make. This dress is
almost seamless. You will have to make small shoulder, and
if needed, small side seams.
approx. 250 (375, 450, 500, 625, 750, 875) m or 274
It can be made with 100% cotton yarn or any cotton blend (411, 493, 548, 685, 822, 959) yards of any sport weight yarn
yarn. Ultra Pima Fine Cascade, 100% pima
When choosing yarn alternatives – suggested yardage per cotton, 100g (3.5oz) / 250m (273yds)
50g ball is approximately 125m up to 140m. With finer yarns, crochet hook 3.5mm or size needed to obtain gauge
the dress might turn out smaller then listed below, even if Tapestry needle
you adjust the gauge by using larger hook. It will be difficult 2 stitch markers
to maintain same tension through whole piece.
19sts and 19rows in sc to measure 10x10cm or 4x4in
Size Chest* Length**
Newborn 40cm/15 ¾ in 28cm/11in
3-6m 45cm/17 ¾ in 35cm/13 ¾ in
st(s) – stitch(es) sp - space
6-12m 50cm/19 ¾ in 40cm/15 ¾ in
1-2y 55cm/21 ¾ in 45cm/17 ¾ in ch – chain stitch sl st – slip stitch
3-4y 60cm/23 ¾ in 52cm/20 ½ in sc – single crochet WS – wrong side
5-6y 66cm/26 in 57cm/22 ½ in dc – double crochet RS – right side
7-8y 72cm/28 ¼ in 60cm/23 ½ in
yo – yarn over
*suggested positive ease – approx. 2-4cm
** length is easy to adjust
This pattern is property of Mon Petit Violon Designs. You can’t modify, resell or share this pattern, but you may sell finished items made from it.
Mon Petit Violon Designs©2020
Row 5 (WS): ch1, (dc, ch1, CL) in first st, *dc in next sc, CL
shell in next dc*, repeat from * 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) more times,
dc in next sc, (CL, ch1, dc) in last dc, turn; 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11)
*Yo, insert hook in specified st and draw up a loop, yo and CL shells made and 2 CL (photo 4)
draw through 2 loops*, two loops on hook (photo 1), repeat Row 6 (RS): ch1, sc in first st, ch2, skip next CL, dc in next dc,
from * two times more working in same stitch, ( photo 2) yo *ch2, skip next CL, sc in next ch2sp, ch2, skip next CL, dc in
and draw through all four loops, CL made (photo 3) next dc*, repeat from * 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) more times, ch2,
skip next CL, sc in last dc, turn (photo 5)
Repeat Row 3 through 6 – one (one, two, two, three, three,
three) more times
For sizes newborn, 6-12m, 3-4y - repeat Row 3 once more,
photo 1 photo 2 photo 3
fasten off, but leave long tail
For sizes 3-6m, 1-2y, 5-6y and 7-8y – repeat Rows 3 through
5 once more, fasten off, but leave long tail
In specified st or space work (CL, ch2, CL), CL shell made
You can join the shoulder seams now or choose to do it
later. I did mine later. Put both pieces together, right side
inside, and using the tail you left, join working sc across the
first shell, working through both layers, fasten off. (photo 8)
Repeat on second side. For the smallest sizes you can
simply work sc through first 2sts and fasten off to make the
Work (dc, ch1, dc) into the specified stitch neck opening wider, especially if using cotton yarn which is
less stretchy than some blend yarns
Rnd 1 (RS): on RS, join yarn into the first st (into remaining
loop of foundation ch) at the bottom of the first piece and
work sc in each st across, ch3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 5, 5), sc in first st (on
RS) of the second piece, sc in each of next st to end, ch3 (3,
3, 3, 4, 5, 5), join with sl st in first sc of the rnd; 80 (92, 104,
START 116, 130, 144, 156) sts, turn and work on WS (photo 6)
Rnd 2 (WS): ch1, skip st at the base of ch1, *v-st in each of
next 2sts, skip next st*, repeat from * to end, join with sl st in
Pattern is written for newborn, changes for 3-6m, 6-12m, 1-2y, 3-4y, first dc; 53 (61, 69, 77, 87, 96, 104) v-sts made
5-6y, 7-8y sizes are in ( … ) Rnd 3 (WS): ch1, v-st in each ch1sp of v-st from previous rnd
Ch1 at the beginning of each round doesn’t count as stitch to end, join with sl st in first dc; 53 (61, 69, 77, 87, 96, 104) v-
sts (photo 7)
Repeat Rnd 3 – 12 (14, 18, 22, 26, 30, 34) more times or until
desired length; the skirt part is worked entirely on WS
Row 1 (WS): ch38 (44, 50, 56, 62, 68, 73), sc in 2nd ch from Fasten off, don’t turn the dress inside out but work the
hook and in each next ch, turn; 37 (43, 49, 55, 61, 67, 73) sc Armhole Edging
Row 2 (RS): ch1, sc in first st, *ch2, skip next 2sts, dc in next
st, ch2, skip next 2sts, sc in next st*, repeat from * 5 (6, 7, 8, 9,
10, 11) more times, turn (photo 1)
For larger sizes or if the side splits are too deep, before
making Armhole Edging make a side seams using tapestry
Row 3 (WS): ch1, but pull it longer here and throughout needle or working sl sts across, on WS, working through
when next st is dc, dc in first st, *CL shell in next dc, dc in both layers up to desired height, leaving enough space for
next sc*, repeat from * 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) more times, turn; 6 armholes
(7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12) CL shells made (photo 2)
Armhole Edging is worked on WS as well. Visually divide the
Row 4 (RS): ch1, dc in first st, *ch2, skip next CL, sc in next armhole in two parts and place markers slightly off the
ch2sp, ch2, skip next CL, dc in next dc*, repeat from * 5 (6, 7, center as shown in photo 9, leaving largest part at the top of
8, 9, 10, 11) more times, turn (photo 3) 2
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the armhole. Join yarn into the middle of the underarm and
work: 4
Rnd 1 (WS): ch1, sc in first st and work sc evenly across to
the first marker, work 2dc in each st or sp to next marker,
work sc to end, join with sl st in first sc (photo 10)
Rnd 2 (WS): ch1, sc in each sc to last sc, skip last sc, *v-st in
next dc, skip next dc*, repeat from * to last dc, skip last dc,
sc in each sc to end, join with sl st in first sc, fasten off
(photo 11)
Work edging around the second armhole in the same way
Fasten off
Weave in all ends and turn the dress inside out 5
6
2
7
3
3
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8 10 Shown on RS
9 Shown on RS 11 Shown on RS
4
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