MALIA SHOULDER BAG
Difficulty: Easyish
Finished Size: 15.5″ width x 12″ height x 6″ depth
Hook: E – 3.5mm (I absolutely love my Clover Amour 3.5mm Hook
)
Yarn: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in 2 colors. 24/7 Cotton is a
worsted-weight, mercerized yarn. You will need 675 yards / 4
skeins of COLOR A (I used “Silver”) and 100 yards / 1 skein of
COLOR B (I used “White”). If using one color, you’ll need 775 yards
total.
Gauge: 10 rows of 10 SC = 2″ square
You’ll also need:
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Two 36″ lengths of 3/8″ twisted rope for handles (I found
mine at Joann Fabrics)
• Optional but recommended: Either a size 4 (1/2″ diameter)
grommet kit (like this one) or a size 15/32″ (12mm) eyelet kit.
I thoroughly explain what to look for, how they’re used, and
what the difference is between grommets and eyelets in the
tutorial video and in the blog post above. You don’t have to
add these but they will make your bag much more durable
and stretch-resistant.
• Hammer
Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
BLO (back loop only)
3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)
Special Stitches:
Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on
hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull
through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same
stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over,
insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8
loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to
close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops –
one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch –
each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in
the row or round’s final stitch count.)
3rd Loop Only
Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this
pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd
loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the
work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop
only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a
delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.
Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.
(3) Tutorial videos will be embedded at the bottom of the pattern.
(Click here for a direct link to Part 1, click here for Part 2, and click
here for Part 3.) The video tutorials are very helpful – especially
the video for Part 2!
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INSTRUCTIONS
To begin: With COLOR A, CH157.
Round 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH.
Place a stitch marker in the final stitch, then join with a SL ST to
the top of the first SC, being careful not to twist the round. (156)
Round 2: CH1. SC in first ST. Place a stitch marker in that
stitch. SC in each remaining ST around. Do not join. (156)
Note: We are now transitioning to a seamless round. Once you SC
in the final stitch for Round 2, which we marked with a stitch
marker, you can remove the stitch marker – you don’t need it for
now. When you move on to Round 3, instead of chaining up,
simply put your first SC right into the first stitch of the previous
round (also marked with a stitch marker). Continue on
seamlessly, moving that stitch marker up with each round to keep
track of the first stitch of the round so that you don’t lose your
place.
Rounds 3-24: SC in each ST around. (156)
At the completion of Round 24, join to the first ST of the round
with a SL ST.
[Beginning of Part 2]
Round 25: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the first ST of the
round with a SL ST. (156)
Round 26: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loops of each ST around. Join to
the first ST of the round with a SL ST. (156)
Round 27: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Join to the first ST of
the round with a SL ST. (156)
Round 28: CH1, turn. SK first ST, LBS in next ST. (SK next ST, LBS
in next ST) across. Join to the first ST of the round with a SL ST.
(156)
Round 29: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join to the first ST of
the round with a SL ST. (156)
Round 30: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loops of each ST around. Join to
the first ST of the round with a SL ST. (156)
Rounds 31-62, or until bag measures between 12-13″ high: Repeat
Rounds 27-30. (156)
[Beginning of Part 3]
Round 63: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join to the first ST of
the round with a SL ST. (156)
Switch to COLOR B. Fasten off COLOR A.
We are now switching back to a seamless round. Do not join,
chain or turn unless instructed.
Rounds 64-68: Do not chain up or turn. SC in first ST and in each
ST around. Do not join. (156)
Round 69: SC in each of the first 24 STS. CH2; SK 3 STS. SC in each
of the next 24 STS. CH2; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 48 STS.
CH2; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. CH2; SK 3 STS. SC in
each of the next 24 STS. (144 SC + 4 CH2 holes)
Round 70: SC in each ST around, putting 3SC in each CH2 space
from previous round. (156)
Rounds 71-72: SC in each ST around. (156)
Round 73: SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC of
the round. (156)
Round 74: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to
the first SC of the round. (156)
Fasten off. Use your starting tail to sew the gap between the first
and last stitches of Round 1 closed, then weave it, and all of your
other ends, in.
ATTACH EYELETS OR GROMMETS
Open your eyelet or grommet kit and retrieve the following items:
Turn your bag inside out, and follow the instructions on your
eyelet/grommet kit to add eyelets/grommets to each of the four
holes at the top of the bag. (Please note that if your instructions
include anything about punching a hole in the fabric,
you do not need to do this step because we crocheted holes right
into our fabric.) Watch my tutorial video for a step-by-step on
how to set grommets or eyelets with a hammer.
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SEWING THE BOTTOM
Keeping the bag inside out, lay it flat, lining up the grommets. Use
COLOR A (a length about 5x the width of the bag) to sew the
bottom of the bag closed, stitch by stitch. Fasten off and weave in
ends.
With the bag still inside out, turn it upside down and position the
bottom so that one end lays out in a triangular shape, with the
seam centered. Use a ruler and a piece of tape to measure and
mark a 5″ line across the corner of the base. Sew a seam across
the line (through both layers) with COLOR A. Repeat on the
opposite side. This will make the inside of the bag roomy.
Turn bag right-side out. Here’s what it should look like on the
inside:
And here’s what it should look like on the bottom:
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ADDING ROPE HANDLES
Take your first rope handle and insert it through one of the
eyelets, going from the inside of the bag to the outside. Tie a knot
near the bottom of the rope on the outside of the bag and pull it
tight (you can use your eyelet to help by gently but firmly pulling
the rope from the inside of the bag, which will pull the knot
against the eyelet and tighten it up). Then, use good scissors to
cut the excess rope about 1/2″ below the knot.
If your rope looks like mine, it will have a couple strands of thread
(“casing”) wrapped tightly around each twist. These are pretty
easy to locate by gently pulling on the tips of the yarn. When you
find them, pull them away from the yarn right up to the knot.
Then use scissors to cut them off at that point. Give the exposed
thread a little ruffle with your fingers; this will give your handles
that classic weathered tassel look.
Repeat these instructions with the other end of the same rope
(attaching it through the other eyelet on the same side of the bag)
to complete your first handle. Then, do everything again for the
2nd handle on the other side. Note that you’ll want both handles
to be the same length, so be sure to compare them when you’re
about to tie your final knot to ensure that the handle sizes match.
