P 120

DESCRIPTION

P 120, 4-DOOR part of which forms part of the floor in the luggage
Body frame compartment. The scuttle section (Fig. 2) consists
of the bulkhead (7), wheel arches (5), front upper
The Volvo P 120 has an integral body so that there
cross-member (4) and side plates (3), as well as
A

i s no chassis frame. The body is composed of a

l ower cross-members (1 and 2). The bulkhead forms
number of pressed steel plates, each of which forms
the front transverse wall of the body and is shaped
part of the supporting construction.
with welded end pieces. Two front side members
The body can be suitably divided up into the floor,
(8) project from the front floor. At the front they
side sections, rear section, scuttle, roof, front mud-
are joined together by means of a cross-member
guards, doors, luggage compartment and bonnet.
(2) and at the rear they are connected to the front
The floor and frame sections (Fig. 1) consist of a
cross-member under the front seats. Upper side
front and rear floor plate (1 and 4) and an inner
members (6) project from the upper corner between
cantrail (2), front and rear cross-members (8 and 6),
the bulkhead and front pillar. These are spot wel-
tunnel (3) and scuttle (Fig, 2). The floor plates are
ded to the front pillar, the front side plate and
welded together with the rear seat support. The
wheel arch plates. The front axle member and
tunnel (3), which accommodates the propeller shaft
bumper support bars are attached to the side
i s spot-welded to the floor plates. The rear floor
members.
plate has a longitudinal reinforcing member (5)
on each side at the bottom and between these a
number of cross-members. One of the cross-mem-
bers (6) is provided with an attachment (7) for the
rear axle tie rod, There is a flanged hole in the rear
floor plate for mounting the fuel tank, the upper

Fig. 2. Scuttle section

Fig. 1. Floor section (2- and 4-door) Front lower 4. Front upper
1. Front floor plate 6. Rear cross-member cross-member cross-member
2. I nner cantrail 7. Attachment for rear 2. Front lower 5. Wheel arch
3. Tunnel axle tie rod cross-member 6. Upper side member
4. Rear floor plate 8. Front cross-member 3. Side plate 7. Bulkhead
5. Reinforcing member 8. Front side member
P 120

The front end is bolted to the upper side mem-

bers, front cross-member and front pillar. The front
mudguards are pressed in one piece and bolted
to the wheel arch plate. The front section forms
the front part of the front end as well as the air
duct to the radiator. The body is noise- and heat-
i nsulated. The insulation consists of "waffle" board
which is stuck on to the plate.

Bonnet
The bonnet is pivoted at the rear on two hinges.
I n the closed position, the bonnet is secured by a
bonnet lock fitted on the front section. The lever
Fig. 3. Side section (4-door) for the bonnet lock is operated by means of a
control placed underneath the dashboard inside
the vehicle.

Doors sand openings

The doors are built up of an outer and inner plate
together with door arch which is flanged and spot-
welded in one unit. The hinges are fitted to the
i nner plate. The doors are adjustable both longitu-
On 4-door models the side section (Fig. 3) dinally, vertically and laterally. The doors are
consists of the front pillar (9), intermediate pillar (11), provided with a door check. This consists of a flat
rear pillar (6), intermediate and outer cantrails (8 bar attached to the door pillar and runs against a
and 7), roof former (1), windscreen pillar (10), rear roller in the door. In the open position the flat
wheel arch (2) with wheel arch member (5), rear bar obstructs the movement of the roller and thus
mudguard (4), back plate and joining plate (3). The li mits the movement of the door. The door checks
cantrail and wheel arch member are manufactured are fitted to the doors with screws. The press-
of galvanized sheet metal. button of the outside door handles operates a lever
The roof section (Fig. 4) consists of a number of which in turn disengages a rotating toothed roller
pressed steel plates. The roof plates form the (tumbler). The inside door handles are fitted to the
upper part of the scuttle section, windscreen open- remote control which is attached to the inner door
i ng, the roof itself, the opening for the rear window plate with screws. The handle transmits the move-
and the upper limit of the luggage compartment. ment to the toothed roller by means of a link rod.
The front mudguards, front section and bonnet The lock insert is fitted in the press-button on the
make up the front end. door handle. The doors can be locked from inside
the vehicle by pressing down the locking knobs.
The window winders are of the cable and chain
type. The movement of the window winding handle
i s transmitted to the window itself by a cable and
chain which are joined together forming an endless
"drive This is mounted on two pulleys and a
sprocket. The lower pulley is provided with a spring
device for tensioning.
The luggage compartment lid is built up of an outer
and inner plate. The catch for the locking device
i s fitted on the lower edge of the luggage compart-
ment lid. The hinges are fitted at the upper edge
of the lid. The hinges are bolted to the plate under
Fig. 4. Roof section (2- and 4-door) the rear window through a reinforcing plate. The
 P 120

l uggage compartment lid is counter-balanced with i s adjusted with a screw (1, Fig. 5 and 3, Fig. 7)
torsion rods and can be set in any position when on each side of the backrest. The seat cushions are
opening. On chassis up to number 20999, the lock- attached to the seat frame by means of press-
i ng device is placed on the body below the lid, fasteners.
and on vehicles with effect from chassis number
21000, the locking device is fitted on the lid.

REAR SEAT
Interior fittings and upholstery The rear seat and backrest are built up in principle
i n the same way as the front seats, although in this
FRONT SEATS, LATE PRODUCTION case the seat frame consists of a wooden frame.
The front seats are built up on a tubular frame. The
padding consists of foam plastic which is covered
by fabric-backed vinyl. The seat can be adjusted
l ongitudinally by releasing the catch (3, Fig. 5), and
sliding the seat. The seat can be adjusted vertically DOOR UPHOLSTERY
at the attachment (4) which is provided with holes The door upholstery consists of wood-fibre sheeting
at different heights. The seat can be tilted to the lined with non-woven padding and covered with
desired position by means of the adjusting device upholstery material. It is secured to the door by
(5). The backrest inclination is variably adjustable means of clips. The front armrest is made of moul-
by means of the handwheel (2) which operates an ded plastic and is screwed to the inner plate of the
eccentric. The seat is provided with an adjustable door.
l umbar support (see Fig. 7), the tension of which

HEADLINING
The headlining consists of plastic material stretched
on roof ribs and secured in retainers fitted on the
upper limit of the body sides.

COVERING FOR BULKHEAD AND FLOOR

The sides of the bulkhead are lined with millboard
which is attached with clips. The bulkhead is
covered with plastic-lined felt matting. The floor is
covered with rubber mats.

Bumpers
Bild 5. Front seat (4-door) The bumpers are composed of three parts and the
1. Adjustment of lumbar support upper joints are provided with overriders. The bum-
2. Adjustment of backrest inclination
pers are fitted on four support bars, of which the
3. Longitudinal adjustment
front ones are attached to the front side members
4. Adjustment of seat height
5. Adjustment of seat inclination and the rear ones to the rear side members.

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P120

P 120,2-DOOR OTHER INTERIOR FITTINGS

Concerning other fittings and the bumpers, see the
Body frame 4-door model.
The body frame is largely similar to that of the
4-door model. However, the side part is altered P 120 STATION WAGON
so that there is no longer an intermediate pillar
and the rear mudguard (3, Fig. 6) is extended. The Body frame
side section consists of front and rear door pillars The front end is the same as that on the 2-door and
(7 and 4), intermediate and outer cantrails (6 and 4-door models, The floor section (Fig. 8) consists of
5), roof former (1), windscreen pillar (8), rear wheel the front (11), intermediate (3) and rear (4) floor
arch (2) and rear mudguard (3). plates, tunnel, inner cantrail (1), side members (6),
front (10), intermediate (8) and rear (5) cross-mem-
bers.
Bonnet The front and intermediate floor plates are welded
See the 4-door model. together at the rear seat support. The tunnel is
spot-welded to the front floor plate (11). Two rear
side members (6) are welded to the lower side of
Doors and openings
the intermediate (3) and rear (4) floor plates, one
See the 4-door model.
on each side, and between these a number of
cross-members. One of the cross-members (8) is

Interior fittings and upholstery provided with an attachment (9) for the rear axle
tie rod. Both the rear side members are provided
FRONT SEATS with attachments for the rear axle support arms.
The front seats on the 2-door vehicle can be The spare wheel well (7), which is provided with
hinged forwards in order to facilitate entry to the a lid in the floor, is welded on the lower side of
rear seats. They are provided with catches (4) in the rear floor plate. There is a flanged hole in this
order to prevent tilting forwards (see Fig, 7). for the fuel tank.

Fig. 6. Side section (2-door)

1. Roof former
2. Rear wheel arch
3. Rear mudguard
4. Rear pillar
5. Outer cant rail
6. I ntermediate cant rail
7. Front pillar
8. Windscreen pillar
 P 120

Fig. 9. Side section, Station Wagon

1. Roof former 6. Rear wheel arch
2. I nner frame for side 7. Front intermediate
window pillar
3. Upper rear pillar 8. Outer cantrail
Fig. 7. Front seat (2-door) 4. Rear mudguard 9. I ntermediate cantrail
1. Adjustment of seat inclination 5. Rear intermediate 10. Front pillar
2. Adjustment of seat height pillar
3. Adjustment of lumbar support
4. Longitudinal adjustment of seat
5. Adjustment of backrest inclination

The scuttle section is similar to that on the 2- and roof formers (1) and windscreen pillar. The rear
4-door models. section is composed of the rear wheel arch (6), rear
mudguard (4), inner frame (2) for rear side window
The side section (Fig. 9) consists of the front pillar and upper (3) and lower rear pillar. The upper part
(10), intermediate pillar (7), rear section, interme- of the rear mudguard is extended upwards and
diate (9) and outer (8) cantrails, inner and outer forms the outer frame for the rear side window.

Fig. 8. Floor section,

Station Wagon
1. I nner cantrail
2. Rear seat support
3. I ntermediate floor plate
4. Rear floor plate
5. Cross-member
6. Side member
7. Spare wheel well
8. Cross-member
9. Attachment for rear axle
support arms
10. Cross-member
11. Front floor plate

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P 120

Fig. 10. Roof section, Station Wagon

The roof section (Fig. 10) consists of the roof Fig. 11. Catch device for rear seat, Station Wagon
plate, windscreen member, two roof arches and 1. Eccentric 3. Catch sleeve
rear member. 2. Pull rods 4. Handle

REAR SEAT
Doors and openings The rear seat is built up of springs on a frame and
The doors on the Station Wagon are similar to those has foam plastic padding which is covered with
on the 4-door model. The tailgate consists of an vinyl. The seat cushion is provided with two hinges
upper and lower part. The hinges of the upper at the lower front edge and can if necessary be
tailgate are attached to the rear edge of the roof tipped up against the front seats. It is covered with
section and those of the lower tailgate are bolted a mat underneath and forms the front limit of the
i n the rear cross-member. The inside of the lower l oading space when in the tipped-up position.
tailgate is provided with a cover plate and mat The backrest consists of a back plate fitted with
which are attached by means of screws. Both tail- rubber bands. The padding consists of foam plastic
gate sections are locked by means of a common and the upholstery of fabric-backed vinyl. The rear
l ock which is bolted on to the lower tailgate. Each side of the back plate is provided with a mat and
of the tailgate sections is provided with a support when folded down forms an extension of the floor
for holding it in the open position. Opening of the i n the loading space. The backrest is locked in the
upper tailgate is facilitated by means of a gas normal position by a spring-loaded catch device,
spring, i.e. a piston which runs in an enclosed gas- see Fig. 11, the handle (4) of which operates the
filled cylinder. There are four different opening l atches through an eccentric (1) and pull rods (2).
positions. The lower corners of the backrest rest partly on a
fixed catch and partly (on the left-hand side) on a
sprung catch.

Interior fittings and upholstery Bumpers

FRONT SEATS The bumpers are the same as on the 4-door model
See the corresponding section for the 4-door except that the rear overriders serve as footsteps,
model. the upper sides of which are rubber-covered.
 P 120

REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
FRONT END
Front mudguards
The front mudguard is removed by taking out the
following screws: the screw between the mudguard
and stay at the lower side member, the screw bet-
ween the mudguard and body side behind the
above-mentioned stay, the screws in the front side
section and the screws in the upper side member.
I n addition, the headlamp with leads must be re-
moved. Concerning removing the headlamp, see
Part 3. Fitting is done in the reverse order.

Front section
The front section is attached to the front mudguards,
wheel arch plates and the upper and lower cross-
members.
When removing, take out the headlamps, the screws
between the front section and splash guard under
the headlamp, the screws in the upper and lower
cross-members and the screws in the wheel arch
plates.

Bonnet and bonnet lock

The bonnet is attached by means of screws in each
hinge. The bonnet is removed by taking out the
screws between the hinges and bonnet. The hinges
are attached to the body with four screws each.
All the holes in the hinges are oval in order to
permit the bonnet to be adjusted.
There are two types of bonnet lock. The early pro-
duction lock (up to chassis number about 10 000)
i s illustrated in Fig. 12. The bonnet lock is adjusted
as follows.
When the bonnet is locked the U-shaped catch
should lie right inside the lock catch groove and Fig. 13. Bonnet lock, late production
the measurement B, Fig. 12 must not exceed 3 mm of the body is 4.5 ± 1 mm (0.18 ± 0.04"). The tension
(0.12"). Any adjustment should be made on the of the safety catch spring should be at least 0.1 kg
catch itself. It should be adjusted vertically so that (0.22 lb.) measured at D, Fig. 12, in order to move
the gap between the bonnet and the front section it from its rest position.

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P 120

Fig. 14. Door check

When the bonnet is closed, the U-shaped catch

should meet the safety catch as close to the top as
possible, but not so high as to cause the hook VOLVO
25255
to be pushed forwards, measurement C, Fig. 12. Fig. 15. Plate over hinge
A small adjustment of 1-2 mm (0.04-0.08") can
be made by bending the safety catch. If a larger
adjustment is found to be necessary, this means
Fitting the door is done in the reverse order
that the whole locking device has been displaced.
to removing. Since the holes in the door are
I n this case the complete bonnet lock must be reset.
l arger than the diameter of the bolt, and the
The late production lock, with effect from chassis
nut plates are movable, the hinge attachment
number about 10000, is illustrated in Fig. 13.
can be adjusted both vertically and laterally.
The lock can be adjusted laterally and longitudinal-
The door is adjusted longitudinally at the
l y since the holes in the front section are larger than
hinge attachments in the body.
the diameter of the attaching screws. The length
of the latch is adjustable by means of nuts. The
l atch and spring are lubricated with grease.
Removing rear door
DOORS (See also under "Removing front door")
1. Remove the door check. The attaching bolt
Removing front door
for this is accessible after the rubber plug in
1. Remove the door check, see Fig. 14. The
the centre pillar has been removed.
attaching bolts for this are accessible after
2. Remove the plates over the hinges.
the side insulation material on the body has
been removed. The door check can also be
removed by unscrewing the guide roller and
pulling it off. In order to get at the guide
roller, the door upholstery must be removed
see under "Removing the door handle and
upholstery".
2. Unscrew the four countersunk screws which
hold the door to the upper and lower hinges.
The door sealing strip must be moved in order
to get at the hinge screws. This is done by
releasing the two plates over the hinges
to which the strip is glued and carefully pulling
to one side, see Fig. 15. When doing this,
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make sure that the rubber strip does not come 23235

away from the plate or door. Fig. 16. Removing armrest

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 P 120

3. Remove the screws in the hinges and lift off

the door.
The holes in the centre pillar are larger than
the diameter of the bolts. When running nuts
are used, this enables the door to be adjusted
both vertically and laterally.

Removing door handle and upholstery

1. Remove the armrest, which is attached with two Fig. 18. Window winder with circlip
screws accessible from underneath the armrest,
see Fig. 16.
2. Remove the door handle and window winding
handle. These are removed by prising out the
l ocking washer which holds them with tool
SVO 2297, see Fig. 1 7. The window winder,
l ocking washer and circlip are illustrated in
Fig. 18.
3. Remove the upper trim moulding. This is
attached to the door edges by four screws,
see Fig. 19.

Fig. 19. Removing the upper trim moulding

Fig. 17. Removing and fitting the window winder

P 120

4. Remove the door upholstery by carefully app-

lying a screwdriver or similar under the pad-
ded edge and then prising outwards, when
the upholstery will come away, see Fig. 20.
5. Remove the paper protectors which are fitted
over the holes in the inner plate of the door.

Door locks and door handles

REMOVING DOOR LOCKS AND LOCK HANDLES
VOLVO
23210 Carry out operations 1-5 under "Removing the
Fig. 20. Removing the door upholstery door upholstery".
1. Unscrew the two screws which hold the guide
rail for the window. The screws are accessible
from the edge of the door as shown in Fig.
21. Lift out the guide rail.
2. Unscrew the three screws which hold the inner
handle mechanism (remote control).
3. Lift off the link arm between the lock knob
roller mechanism and disconnect the link for
the outer handle from the roller mechanism.
4. Unscrew the four screws on the edge of the
door which hold the toothed roller mecha-
nism.
5. Lift off the door with remote control.
6. The door handle is removed by unscrewing the
t wo screws which hold it, see Fig. 22. The
screws are accessible from the inside of the
door and are most easily removed after the
window has been let down or taken out, see
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23211
under "Window winder with mechanism".
Fig. 21. Removing upper screw for guide rail

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23256 23212

Fig. 22. Removing the lock handle Fig. 23. Dismantling the lock handle

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 P 120

DISMANTLING THE DOOR HANDLES

1. Unscrew the two screws which hold the press-
button and lock plunger to the door handle,
see Fig. 23.
2. Press out the locking pins as shown in Fig. 24.
3. Turn the key backwards and forwards a few
ti mes in the press-button at the same time as
pulling outwards, when the lock plunger will
release and can be pulled out as shown in
Fig. 25.

FITTING AND ADJUSTING THE LOCKS VOLVO

23243

Front door Fig. 24. Pressing out the locking pin

1. Fit the lock (10, Fig. 26) with remote control
(12) in the door without tightening the screws.
2. Adjust measurement A, Fig. 28 to 15±0.5 mm
(0.59 ± 0.02") by turning the lock. Tighten the
l ock hard. If it is not possible to obtain the
correct measurement for A by turning the lock
after it has been tightened up as near to A as
possible, the remaining adjustment is done
by bending the lever (5). Measurement A must
be checked within the specified tolerances.
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3. The remote control (12) with split pin (11) 23244

fitted is pushed backwards so that the lever Fig. 25. Press-button dismantled
(9) stops against the lock (10). The remote
control is screwed on in this position. Remove
the split pin (11).
4. Fit the lever (7) for the inner locking knob (15).

Fig. 26. Adjusting the front door lock

1. Outer handle
2. Lock nut
3. Adjusting screw
4. Pin (for checking)
5. Lever
6. Link
7. Lever.
8. Lever
9. Lever
1 0. Lock
11. Split pin
12. Remote control
13. Locking spring
14. Lever
15. Locking knob

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101 44

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P 120

Rear door
1. Fit the lock (11, Fig. 27) with remote control
(13) in the door without tightening the screws.
2. Adjust measurement A, Fig. 28 to 17±0.5 mm
(0.67 ± 0.02") by turning the lock. Tighten the
l ock hard. If it is not possible to obtain the
correct measurement for A by turning the lock
after it has been tightened up as near to A as
possible, the remaining adjustment is done by
bending the lever (5). Measurement A must be
checked within the specified tolerances.
'Fig. 28. Adjusting measurements for lock
3. The remote control (13) with split pin (12)
fitted is pushed backwards so that the lever
(10) stops against the lock (11). The remote
control is screwed on in this position. Remove
the split pin (12).
4. Fit the lever (17) and connect the link (16)
to the lever (1).
5. Set the lever (7) in the locked position, i.e.
backwards against the lock and lever (14) in
the rear catch position. Check through the
control hole (12) that the lever moves fully
to the catch position. In this position the lever
(14) is locked to the link (16) with screws at
the clips (15). Check that the link (16) does
not rub against the inner plate of the door.
On the other hand it must not be bent out so
much that it rubs against the screws of the
i nner trim moulding. Fig. 29. Striker block

Fig. 27. Adjusting the rear door lock

1. Outer handle
2. Locknut
3. Adjusting screw
4. Pin (for checking)
5. Lever
6. Link
7. Lever
8. Lever
9. Locking spring
10. Lever
11. Lock
12. Split pin
13. Remote control
14. Lever
15. Clip
16. Link
17. Lever
18. Locking knob

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 P 120

FITTING AND ADJUSTING THE OUTER HANDLES Inner locking knob

Front door, early production With the locking knob in the pressed-down posi-
tion, measurement C, Fig. 28 should be 12± 1 mm
1. Check that measurement B, Fig. 28=15± 1 mm
(0.47 ± 0.04") for both the front and rear door.
(0.59±0.04"). Adjust if necessary. Tighten the
l ocknut (2) on the screw (3), Fig. 26.
2. Fit the outer handle (1) with link (6) fitted on. STRIKER BLOCK
3. Connect the link (6) to the lever (14). Adjust- The striker block (Fig. 29) is made of steel and
ment is done by selecting one of the three fitted with a floating nut plate. The block is
holes so that the recess and hole in the outer adjustable since the holes in the body have a
handle coincide. This is done by inserting a l arger diameter than that of the attaching screws.
pin (4) into the hole in the outer handle as The vertical position of the striker block is checked
shown in the figure. They should come in by closing the door with the press-button of the
line when the locking knob (15) is pressed outer handle pressed in, when the dowel pin should
down, i.e. the lever (7) is pressed down and slide correctly into the striker block. N.B. This should
the lever (8) moved backwards against the be done immediately after the striker block has
l ock. been fitted.

Ventilation windows
REMOVING AND FITTING
Late production
The ventilation window is built in with one of the
1. Check that the measurement B, Fig. 28=
guide rails for the winding window. A suitable pro-
1 5± 1 mm (0.59 ± 0.04"). Adjust if necessary.
cedure for removing the ventilation window with
Tighten the locknut (2) on the screw (3), Fig.
sealing strips is as follows:
26.
2. Fit the outer handle (1) with link (6) fitted on. 1. Carry out operations 1- 5 under "Removing
the door upholstery".
3. Connect the link (6) with the lever (14). The
l ever in the handle is set in such a position 2. Unscrew the five screws which hold the win-
that a pin (4) (3 mm=0.12") can be inserted dow to the door and door arch, see Figs. 30
i n the hole in the handle. Adjusting is done and 31.
by screwing the link up or down so that the
l oop of the link (6) comes in line with the
l ever (14) on the lock.

Rear door
Late production
1. Check that the measurement B, Fig. 28= 15±
1 mm (0.59±0.04"). Adjust if necessary.
Tighten the locknut (2) on the screw (3), Fig.
27.
2. Fit the outer handle (1) with link (6) fitted on.
3. Connect the link (6) with the lever (8). The
l ever in the handle is set in such a position
that a pin (4) (3 mm=0.12") can be inserted
i n the hole in the handle. Adjusting is done
by screwing the link up or down so that the
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l oop of the link (6) comes in line with the 1 01 040

l ever (8) on the lock. Fig. 30. Attaching screw for ventilation window

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P 120

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101 039

Fig. 31. Upper attaching screw for ventilation

window

3. Unscrew the screws which hold the guide rail

for the winding window, see Fig. 32. This only Fig. 34. Lifting out the ventilation window
applies to the extended guide rail on the front
doors.
4. Remove the upper guide strip with a screw-
driver as shown in Fig. 33.
5. Lift up the window as shown in Fig. 34.
Window winder with mechanism
REMOVING AND FITTING
Carry out operations 1-5 under "Removing the
door upholstery".
Carry out operations 1-5 under "Ventilation win-
dows, removing and fitting".
1. Remove the clip which holds the carrier on the
winding cable to the rail under the window
and lift it up as shown in Fig. 35. On the rear
doors there is no carrier and the clip fits
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directly on the winding chain.
23250
2. Release the cable tensioning device by
Fig. 32. Attaching screw for winding window
slackening the nut for the catch screw on the
guide rail l ower pulley. Lift off the cable and chain.
3. If necessary remove the upper pulley, lower
pulley with tensioning device and winding
sprocket itself. The winding sprocket is remov-
ed by unscrewing the four screws, Fig. 36,
after which the sprocket with shaft is lifted out.
Before fitting the winding window, make sure
that the guide strips and seals are in good
condition. Worn or, damaged parts must be
replaced.
The cable for the winding mechanism should
be tensioned well but not too hard. Lubricate
the cable and chain with grease and the pulley
and winding sprocket with oil.
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23246 After fitting, check that the window runs easily
Fig. 33. Removing upper guide strip i n the guide rails.

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 P 120

VOLVO VOLVO
23248 23249

Fig. 35. Removing clip for carrier Fig. 36. Removing sprocket

B. STRIPS ATTACHED WITH FASTENING RAIL

Sealing strips On late production vehicles the sealing strip is
attached by means of a fastening rail which is spot-
A. BONDED STRIPS
welded to the door.
The following procedure is recommended when fitt- The sealing strip is removed by pulling it outwards,
i ng new rubber strips: when the ridge of the strip releases from the rail.
1. Remove the old strips. When fitting the sealing strip, one of the ridges is
placed in position in the rail, after which the other
2. All traces of old adhesive should be care-
ridge is pressed down into the rail with the help
fully removed from the metal surfaces with
of a screwdriver. This is moved along the rail as
petrol or similar. It is most important to carry
shown in Fig. 37.
this out carefully since no residue from old
adhesive must be left on the metal, but at the
same time care must be taken to make sure
that the paintwork is not damaged by the
solvent used. (Requirements: clean rags,
wooden putty knife).
3. The new rubber strips should be thoroughly
cleaned with petrol, methylated spirit or simi-
l ar. (Requirements: clean rags, fibre brush).
4. After they have dried, the rubber strips should
be coated with Dekalin TH or equivalent and
then allowed to dry to a non-tacky state, which
usually takes about 15 minutes. (Requirements:
thick hair brush).
5. The metal surfaces to which the rubber strips
are to be attached are then coated with
Dekalin TH. (Requirements: thick hair brush).
6. The treated and non-tacky rubber strips are
then pressed on to the newly-coated adhesive
on the metal.
7. The rubber strips should be pressed firmly
against the metal surfaces so that there is no
air trapped in the joints.
N.B. Wait for at least 15 minutes after the strips
have been applied before closing the door. Fig. 37. Fitting sealing strip for door

8-1 5
P 120

Luggage compartment lid, 2- and

4-door models
The luggage compartment lid is mounted on two
hinges, both of which are attached by means of
three screws to the inner plate of the lid and with
two screws to the plate under the rear window.
The holes in the part of the hinges fitted in the lid
are oval so as to permit longitudinal adjustment. In
order to obtain lateral adjustment the holes in the
body under the rear window are made larger than
the diameter of the screws. These screws are access-
i ble after the insulating material round the edge of
the rear window has been removed.
When removing the luggage compartment lid, ten-
sion must first be removed from the torsion rods VOLVO
1 01 060
which support the lid.
Fig. 38. Releasing the torsion rod
Apply tool SVO 2572 as shown in Fig. 38 and prise
down the loop on the torsion rod until the catch
releases. Move aside the catch and let the torsion
rod move back. Remove the torsion rod attachment
i n the body. The other end of the tool is used as
shown in Fig. 39. Prise upwards with the tool so
that the bent part of the torsion rod slides out of
the groove. Hold the tool in this position and grasp
the middle of the torsion rod with one hand and
pull it outwards as shown in Fig. 39 so that it
releases from the bracket when the tool is moved
back and the torsion rod is relieved of tension.
The locking device on vehicles with chassis num-
bers lower then 21000 i s attached with two screws
and a circlip on the body under the luggage
compartment lid. The locking device is released
by pressing in the lockable press button. The lock-
i ng clamp on the lower edge of the luggage com- VOLVO
101 061

partment lid is adjustable in order to permit varia- Fig. 39. Removing the torsion rod
tion of the tightness with which the lid can be
l ocked.
When removing the lock, the two screws at the
edge of the luggage compartment opening in the
body are removed as well as the circlip round the
l ock press-button, see Fig. 40. When fitting, the
circlip is first fitted and then the screws. Make sure
that the rubber washer round the lock button seals
properly.
The locking device on vehicles with effect from
chassis 21000 i s attached to the luggage compart-
ment lid by means of screws. The catch fitting is
attached to the body with two screws. The lock is
adjusted by screwing the link (5, Fig. 41) up or
down. The lock cylinder (2) is attached to the
handle with a nut. The catch fitting is provided 23235

with oval holes in order to permit adjustment. Fig. 40. Removing circlip for lock press-button

8-1 6
 P 120

4. Unscrew the nuts for the hinges and remove

the latter.

FITTING THE UPPER TAILGATE

1. Place the hinges with packings in position.
Screw on the nuts, adjust the position of the
tailgate and tighten the nuts.
2. Fold the plastic strip for the headlining as
shown in Fig. 43 and press it up into position
with the help of the putty knife. Attach the
fabric at the corners as shown in Fig. 44.
3. Adjust the teazel strip against the body with
a hammer and piece of rubber as shown in
Fig. 45.

Fig. 41. Lock for luggage compartment li d,

VOLVO
l ate production 1 00 954

Fig. 42. Headlining fabric removed to expose

1. Handle 5. Link
2. Lock cylinder upper tailgate hinge nuts
6. Guide spring
3. Lock mechanism 7. Lock
4. Rubber bush 8. Catch fitting

TAILGATE, STATION WAGON

Upper tailgate
REMOVING THE UPPER TAILGATE

1. Unscrew the upper support from the tailgate.

2. Late production. Unscrew the gas spring from
the tailgate.
3. Carefully pull down the headlining at the rear
edge beginning in the middle and continuing
outwards towards the corners. The teazel strip
at the corners is bent out slightly with a putty
knife. The fabric is then carefully lifted off the
projection of the teazel strip with the help
of the putty knife. Remove the headlining VOLVO
100 951
fabric up to the rear stretcher as shown in
Fig. 42. Fig. 43. Folding and fitting rear plastic strip

8 17
P 120

TRIM MOULDINGS

Waist mouldings
The waist mouldings, and the upper trim moulding
for the door on the P 120 2-door model, are
attached with clips. The mouldings are removed
with the help of a putty knife with which they are
carefully unfastened. Before fitting the mouldings,
the holes should be filled with sealing compound.

VOLVO
100 953 Window mouldings
Fig. 44. Fitting headlining fabric in corner
REMOVING

Wind down the window. Apply masking tape or

similar as shown in Fig. 47 i n order to protect the
paintwork. From inside, place a screwdriver under
the rear edge of the moulding in line with the in-
dentations which secure it, see Figs. 46 and 48. Prise
carefully upwards with the screwdriver and at the
same time pull outwards and downwards with the
hand so that the rear retaining spring can be hooked
off with SVO 2297, see Fig. 49. Carefully pull out
the moulding backwards.

FITTING

Stick the profile rubber strips at both ends of the

window moulding and apply sealing compound
along the inner section of the moulding, see Fig.46.
VOLVO
1 00 952
Place the retaining springs in position and apply
sealing compound as shown in Fig. 50. Push the
Fig. 45. Adjusting teazel strip
window moulding in position under the rubber strip
of the ventilation window as shown in Fig. 51. Lift
the inner ridge of the moulding over the metal
edge of the door and press down so that the inden-
tations, Fig. 46, locate in the holes in the sheet
metal edge. Press up the retaining springs with
SVO 2297, see Fig. 52.

Moulding for rear side window,

Station Wagon
When fitting the clips for the moulding, one of the
Fig. 46. Window moulding
l egs is inserted in the recess in the moulding, the
A. Indentations clip pressed together and the other leg inserted.
B. Rubber strip
C. Sealing compound Apply sealing compound over the fastenings and
D. Rubber strip press the moulding into position.

8- 1 8
 P 120

Fig. 47. Application of masking tape Fig. 50. Position of springs

Fig, 48. Removing window moulding

Fig. 51. Fitting window moulding

Fig. 49. Removing spring Fig. 52. Fitting spring

8--1 9
P 120

Trim mouldings, windscreen

REMOVING
1. Remove the trim moulding from the rubber
strip by inserting a moistened nylon putty
knife between the strips and moving it all,
round, see Fig. 53. (Do not pull off the trim
moulding).
2. Push over the joining pieces to one of the
halves of the moulding.
3. Remove the trim moulding by prising out the
ridge of the rubber strip from the trim mould-
i ng with a moistened wooden putty knife and
releasing the trim moulding in the middle with
VOLVO
199 969 another putty knife as shown in Fig. 54. Prise
Fig. 53. Removing trim moulding off the moulding carefully while releasing the
rubber strip with the other putty knife, see Fig.
55.

FITTING
Moisten a 4.0 mm (5/32") leather cord in soap solu-
tion or paraffin and place it in the groove of the
rubber strip for the trim moulding. Place one half
of the trim moulding in position and hold it there
while pulling the leather cord out upwards over
the moulding so that it is pressed against the
rubber strip as shown in Fig. 56. Push on the
j oining pieces and repeat the procedure with the
other half of the moulding. Adjust the position of
the joining pieces over the joints.

Trim mouldings, rear window

VOLVO
100 968
[ 2- and 4-door models]
Fig. 54. Removing trim moulding from rubber strip REMOVING
1. Push the joining pieces at the lower corners
backwards. Release the lower trim moulding
by pressing it upwards out of the rubber strip
with a wooden putty knife. Pull the trim
moulding upwards carefully and follow round
with the putty knife.
2. Release the side mouldings in the same way
with the putty knife and remove them. Remove
the angular joining pieces by pulling them
downwards and turning inwards at the same
ti me.
3. Remove the upper trim moulding in the same
way as the lower one.

FITTING
1. Moisten a 4.0 mm (5/32") feather cord in soap
solution or paraffin and place it in the groove
VOLVO
100 966 of the rubber strip for the trim moulding. Start
Fig. 55. Removing trim moulding and finish at one of the upper corners.

8--2 0
 P 120

2. Place the upper trim moulding in position and

press it up against the rubber strip. Pull out
the leather cord and press in the trim mould-
i ng at the same time. Fit the angular joining
pieces.
3. Press on the side mouldings and push them
up into the joining pieces. Fit the side mould-
ings in the same way as the upper trim
moulding.
4. Fit the lower trim moulding in the same way
as the upper one. Fit the lower joining pieces.

WINDOWS
Windscreen
REMOVING THE WINDSCREEN Fig. 56. Fitting trim moulding
1. Remove the interior rear view mirror, interior
trim mouldings round the windscreen and the
windscreen wiper arms. Place protective pad-
ding over the bonnet, front seats and back-
rests.
2. Remove the trim mouldings as described in
operations 1-3, "Removing the trim mould-
i ngs".
3. Release the rubber strip both from the wind-
screen and sheet metal by inserting a wooden
putty knife moistened in synthetic washing
solution (the putty knife should be moistened
now and then during the course of the work)
between the rubber strip and windscreen and
between the rubber strip and sheet metal
respectively.
4. Start removing the rubber strip in the upper
l eft-hand corner by prising the rubber strip
VOLVO

over the sheet metal edge from inside and 1 00 967

Fig. 57. Releasing rubber strip

at the same time carefully pulling out the strip
from outside with a pair of grips as shown in
Fig. 57. Then carefully pull off the strip by
hand all round as shown in Fig. 58 and remove
the windscreen.
Remove all sealing compound from the sheet
metal. If it has dried on, first carefully scrape
off the sealing compound and then wash clean
with naphtha. Check that the sheet metal edge
is not deformed. If the sealing compound has
not dried on, clean the rubber strip with naph-
tha, otherwise replace it.

FITTING THE WINDSCREEN

1. Place the windscreen on a stand as shown
i n Fig. 59. Moisten the outer edge of the
windscreen and fit the rubber strip starting
at one of the corners. Adjust the strip so that VOLVO
100 910

it lies correctly all round. Fig. 58. Removing rubber strip

8-2 1
P 120

2. Fit a cord (preferably terylene) of a suitable

size in the groove of the rubber strip for the
sheet metal edge, beginning at the top centre
as shown in Fig, 60.
3. Place the windscreen in position with rubber
strip fitted. Wearing working gloves, carefully
strike the windscreen a few blows with the
VOLVO
palm of the hand so that it makes good con-
1 01 141
tact all round. Then carefully pull out the cord
Fig. 59. Stand for windscreen when fitting from inside.
rubber strip 4. This will cause the rubber strip to "creep"
A. Sheet of plywood,15 mm(19/32") over the sheet metal edge as shown in Fig. 61.
B. Foam plastic, 1-1.5" It may sometimes be necessary to adjust the
C. Storage compartment position of the windscreen with the palm of
D. Hooks for sealing compound gun the hand. If the cord is difficult to pull out, this
may cause damage to the strip, in which case
strike the windscreen from inside with the
palm of the hand and vice versa if the rubber
strip does not "creep" over the edge of the
sheet metal properly.
5. Check that the rubber strip seals well all
round. If necessary adjust the position of the
windscreen both vertically and laterally by
striking with the palm of the hand.
6. Fit the trim mouldings as previously described.
Fig. 60. Placing cord in rubber strip 7. Seal the joints between the rubber strip and
windscreen and rubber strip and sheet metal
with sealing compound using a gun with a flat
nylon nozzle as shown in Fig, 62. Make sure
that the sealing compound fills the joint well.
Scrape off surplus sealing compound and
wash the windscreen and sheet metal with
naphtha and then polish clean.
8. Fit the interior trim mouldings, rear view mirror
and windscreen wiper arms.

Rear window
Fig. 61. Fitting windscreen
REMOVING AND FITTING
See the corresponding sections under the heading
"Windscreen".

Rear ventilation window, 2-door model

REMOVING
Unscrew the two safety belt attaching bolts, remove
the entry handle and lift off the cover plate, after
VOLVO
24813 which the ventilation window hinge screws are
Fig. 62. Applying sealing compound accessible, see Fig. 63.

8-22
 P 120

SEATS

Front seats
REMOVING, EARLY PRODUCTION

Lift out the seat cushion. Press down the catch for
adjusting the longitudinal position of the seat and
push the seat forwards until the slide rails release
from the frame. It may be necessary to lift the pull
wire for the catch halfway between the slide rails.
An intermediate production type has a plastic wed-
ge which limits the movement of the catch. This
wedge must be taken out before the seat can be
removed.

REMOVING, LATE PRODUCTION

Unfasten the press-button which holds the seat

cushion to the frame and remove the seat cushion.
Unscrew the four attaching screws for the slide rails.
Lift off the seat.
Fig, 63. Attachment of rear ventilation window

ADJUSTING THE FRONT SEAT, LATE PRODUCTION

1. The inclination of the seat is adjusted with the

eyebolt (1, Fig. 64) at the front edge of the
seat. Slacken the adjusting screw and adjust
the eyebolt to the desired position.
2. The height of the seat is adjusted by attaching
the rail in a suitable hole in the bracket (2).
3. The lumbar support is adjusted with the screw
(3). On a number of earlier vehicles with lum-
bar support where the adjusting device does
not have a countersink, the adjusting screw
can most easily be found by pressing the up-
holstery at the adjusting screw hole slightly
downwards and backwards.

Rear seat, Station Wagon

REMOVING THE BACKREST

Fig. 64. Front seat
Release the catch and tip the backrest slightly for-
wards. Move aside the nylon washer at the lower 1. Adjustment of seat inclination
2. Adjustment of seat height
l eft-hand corner of the backrest and insert a narrow
3. Adjustment of lumbar support
screwdriver as shown in Fig. 65. Press in the conical 4. Longitudinal adjustment of seat
catch pin and lift out the backrest. 5. Adjustment of backrest inclination

8-23
P 120

To remove the upholstery, undo the lacing at the

l ower edge, open the zip-fastener, after which the
upholstery can be removed, see Fig. 66.
When fitting the backrest, place the nylon washer
on the pin and fit the right-hand pin in position.
Move the left-hand, conical pin towards the upper
side of the fitting, move the nylon washer over the
fitting and press down the seat. If necessary, the
catch can be moved aside with a screwdriver.

REMOVING LOCK MECHANISM FOR BACKREST

The lock mechanism is accessible after the lacing
at the lower edge of the backrest has been undone,
the zip-fastener opened, see Fig. 66, and the up-
holstery removed.
VOLVO
101 0:8

Fig. 65. Releasing catch for removing rear seat

backrest on Station Wagon
UPHOLSTERY
Repairing inner roof (headlining)
STRETCHING THE HEADLINING FOR REMOVING
SMALL HOLES AT THE OUTER EDGE
I n most cases where there are small holes at the
outer edge of the headlining it is sufficient just to
stretch it.
1. Remove the interior light, sun visors, rear view
mirror and upper part of the windscreen trim
moulding. Remove the side mouldings as
shown in Fig. 67.
2. Release the trim strip. Prise out the teazel strip
with the help of a putty knife.
3. Pull out the trim strip as shown in Fig. 68 and
remove the headlining from the teazel strip
with the help of a putty knife.
4. Stretch the headlining so that the damaged
part can be tucked in behind the teazel strip
as shown in Fig. 69. The headlining should be
stretched well, but not too hard so that it
wrinkles.
5. Place the trim strip • i n position and knock the
teazel strip against the side of the body with
the help of a hammer and piece of rubber as
shown in Fig. 70.
VOLVO
1 00 955
6. Fit the interior light, sun visors, rear view
Fig. 66. Underside of rear seat backrest, mirror and trim mouldings for the windscreen,
Station Wagon see Fig. 71.

8 24
 P 120

Fig. 67. Inner trim mouldings removed

Fig. 70. Knocking in the teazel strip

Fig. 68. Headlining and trim strip released Fig. 71. Fitting sun visor

Fig. 69. Stretching the headlining Fig. 72. Cutting away the headlining

8-25
P 120

REPLACING THE HEADLINING, 2- AND 4-DOOR

VEHICLES
1. Remove the interior light, sun visors, rear view
mirror and upper part of the trim moulding for
the windscreen. Release the side mouldings
as shown in Fig. 67.
2. Cut away the old headlining as shown in Fig.
72.
3. Remove the trim strip and remainder of the old
headlining.
4. Adjust the teazel strip so that it fits well against
the trim strip and check the screws of the teazel
strip.
5. Fit the stretchers in the new headlining. N.B.
The stretchers are numbered 1-5 with 1 at
Fig. 73. Fitting rear clip
the front next to the windscreen. Make sure
that the stretchers are provided with rubber
caps at the ends.
6. Fit the headlining starting at the back, see
Fig. 73. The rear stretchers are attached with
clips, one on each side. The other stretchers
are placed on the sheet metal edge over the
doors. The stretchers should stand vertically.
7. Fold over the plastic strip and fit above the
windscreen as shown in Fig. 74.
8. Fit the headlining above the rear window
as described in point 7. The seam running
across at the back should come at an equal
distance from both the corners of the rear
window, see Fig. 75.
9. Stick the headlining to the body metal at the
rear window and to the wheel arch plate.
1 0. Fit the sun visors, see Fig. 71. Fig. 74. Folding over and fitting the plastic strip
11. Stretch up the headlining in the teazel strip.
This is done stretcher by stretcher beginning
on both sides with stretcher 1, then stretcher
2, 3 and so on. The headlining is pushed in
and straight upwards so that there are no
creases at the windscreen or rear window. Do
not secure the headlining along the whole
side but leave a piece at the front edge as
shown in Fig. 71.
1 2. Fit the trim strip.
1 3. Knock the teazel strip against the body side
with a hammer and piece of rubber as shown
i n Fig. 70.
14. Cut out a hole for the interior light. Pull out
the wires and fit the interior light.
15. Secure the remaining part of the headlining
at the corners of the windscreen.
16. Fit the windscreen trim moulding. Fig. 75. Headlining ready for stretching

8-26
 P 120

Fig. 76. Stretching the headlining and attaching

Fig. 77. Removing trim moulding for windscreen
to teazel strip

Instrument panel
REMOVING THE INSTRUMENT PANEL
The instrument panel is secured to the body with screws. These are accessible after the front doors have
been opened and the inner trim moulding for the windscreen removed as shown in Fig. 77.

SPECIAL TOOLS FOR CARRYING OUT WORK ON THE BODY

SVO 2486

SVO 2572

SVO 2297

SVO 2297 Tool for removing clips on door and SVO 2486 Tool for fitting plate nut.
window winder handles, and for SVO 2572 Tool for removing and fitting torsion
removing and fitting spring clips stay for luggage compartment lid.
for window mouldings.

8-21