How to replace your Turbo Actuator
Step by Step
Special thanks to other By
forum members who have
previously dealt with this Chirpz
problem!
Old New
Your Turbo is a lot tougher than the electric actuator motor that controls its vanes.
The Turbo Actuator (TA) is a small servo motor a little smaller than your fist and it
sits in front and to the left of the turbo, to the left of the black air intake tube.
How do you know your TA is bad?
In my case, the car went into limp mode one day, the lightening bolt on the dash was
flashing, AND I got a P0299 code which means “Turbo Under Boost.” Although the
code was sticky and remained until I cleared it, the other symptoms were intermittent. I
could drive several days sometimes, then suddenly, limp mode and lightening bolt.
Shutting off the engine would sometimes make it go away for a while. Other times it
would remain persistent until the next day.
If you take your Jeep to the dealer, they will charge you about $130 just to look at it and
determine the problem. Then they may tell you that you need a new turbo and the price
tag for that job is in excess of $7,000. They will NOT replace just TA nor will they sell
you one, nor will they say, “Your TA is bad.” It is easy to replace the TA so I am
surprised that the dealer does not offer this as an option. If you let them replace your
turbo, they will pull your engine to do the job. That can't be good.
So... you have to decide... should I risk $300 and a few hours in order to possibly save
$6,700? In my case, it was an easy decision. Although my turbo is still covered under
extended warranty, I really did not want them to pull my engine which could lead to other
problems.
So, Let's go.... replace the sucker yourself.
Tools
Screw Driver
1/4” drive ratchet
10mm socket
10mm box end wrench
Magnet on a stick
Right angled pick
(not pictured)
It also helps to have a
small stool to stand on.
Get on the computer and order a new TA from XsBoost. This is their URL
http://www.xsboostturbochargers.com/
or call them at
1-330-830-4075
Wait for it to arrive
and compare it to
your actuator just to
be sure.
Ok... here we go.
Disconnect the Negative cable from your battery.
Remove the engine cover. To remove it, remove the oil fill cap, then
remove 2 – 10mm bolts. Lift front and pull it slightly forward and off. I
recommend that you do not replace this cover when done. Leave it
off so all your electronic parts can operate cooler.
Locate your TA and compare it with the one that you obtained from
XsBoost. Make sure they look the same and that the little knob
at the end of the control arm is pointing the correct direction away
from the TA body.
Cut up some small rags and stuff them all around the working
area to prevent the small bolts from dropping out of site when
you fumble them. Leave no hole unplugged.
Turbo Actuator (TA) Turbo
Engine
Elephant hose Mod
Top View
Turbo Actuator
EHM
Remove the fresh air intake.
Loosen two screws and remove
one bolt, then wiggle it off.
Be careful to keep foreign
objects from entering your
turbo.
Bolt
Screws
Remove engine cover bracket. I chose to leave mine off.
Bolt Bolt
Remove the turbo heat shield. 3 bolts hold it on. Be gentle.
It will wiggle out of there if you work at it.
2 bolts 1 bolt
Turbo heat shield
Engine cover
bracket
Unplug the TA. On each side of the plug there is a small clip.
Depress the clips one at a time if necessary and wiggle the plug
off. Don't damage the clips. Bend other cable out of the way.
Clips Plug
Use the mirror to view the circlip that holds the turbo vane control arm
onto the TA arm. You do not need pliers to remove it. I used a small
pick tool, sort of like the
pick that a dentist uses
to pick at your teeth.
You can buy a set of picks
at Napa. It is just a sharp
piece of stiff wire bent
at a right angle with a loop
or a handle on it. You could
make one.
Touch your magnet to the
circlip as your pull the clip
off using your pick.
Hopefully the magnet will
catch the clip as it slides
off.
Circlip
Use the magnet to help
remove and replace the
circlip
Use the magnet to help
remove and replace
the small bolts.
Remove the three bolts that hold the TA. It is a tight squeeze. I
managed to do it with the ratchet. Just before each bolt comes out
touch the magnet to it to prevent dropping. Remove the TA.
Bolts
There is a 4th bolt that looks like it must be removed
if you do, its ok...just replace it later. It is actually
part of the hanger bracket.
Gently grasp the control arm and observe how it works the turbo
vane shaft. Work it up and down to make sure that it works
freely. Mine was a little stiff because it was a cold day but after
a few gentle wiggles it was operating the vanes smoothly.
Gently move it the full
stroke several times.
When done, lean the arm
back out of the way.
Control arm
This shot shows the turbo with the TA removed. Observe the position
of the 3 bolts. You can also see the 4th bolt that you do not have to
remove. Notice that my turbo is not dripping with oil because I use
the “elephant hose mod.”
Bolt holes 4th bolt
Clean
Turbo
Swirl motor is
buried down
there
HINT:
The top bolt is difficult to remove because the TA arm is in the way.
If your TA is still working a little, replace the battery cable and
turn ON the ignition without starting the engine. The TA arm will
move UP and out of the way enough to remove the bolt. In my case
the arm remained UP when I turned the ignition off.
LED work light
Arm in UP position
Reverse the procedure to install the new TA. Use the magnet to
help you position each bolt, then start them with your fingers while
the magnet holds them in place. Replace all three bolts but DO NOT
tighten them yet.
With the TA loose, attach the control arm. Mine was very difficult
to slip back on. I had to leave the TA loose and I had to turn on the
ignition. Be careful not to damage the fragile control arm. Don't
force it!!
Use the magnet to hold the clip in place and then push it on with
the screw driver or if your magnet is stout, push it on with the magnet.
Remove all the RAGS!!!
Remove the battery cable and plug in the TA. Tighten all the bolts.
Replace the turbo heat shield. If you like, replace the engine cover
bracket. I left mine off.
Replace the fresh air intake. Replace the battery cable.
Clear the codes with a scanner. Crank the engine
Smile and pat your wallet.
