FORMULATIONS OF COSMETICS AND PERSONAL CARE:

Discover our complete recipes offering beginners the opportunity to develop new applications, following step-by-step
instructions to learn the best way to design cosmetic formulations.

 Eye Make-up Remover Formulation

 Facial Cream Recipe
 Foundation Make-up Formulation
 Lipsticks Recipe
 Mascara Formulation
 Nail Polish Recipe
 Shampoo Formulation
 Shaving Cream Formulation
 Sun Protection Cream Formulation
 Toothpastes Recipe

EYE MAKE-UP REMOVER Difficulty

FORMULATION ****

1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further

Before starting...
Eye make-up remover formulation requires specific precautions. Indeed eyes and eye contours are
particularly sensitive to irritations. There are tipically two types of eye make-up removers:

 Cleansing milks based on fluid oil/water emulsions

 Cleansing waters which are formulated in the form of an aqueous solution into which
ultra-mild surfactants are dispersed.

Required qualities:

 Perfect tolerance, non-irritant for the cornea

 Sufficient cleansing power to remove eye makeup without insisting too much

 Pleasant or neutral odor

 Non-greasy

 Non-tacky

Typical
Ingredients
Usual Method
(cleansing
water)
Must Use Disperse all hydrophilic ingredients in water under slow stirring;some surfactants should be dispersed in hot
water (40°C°). Oil-soluble ingredients like perfume and some kinds of preservatives should be added in the
aqueous solution by pre-mixing them with a small amount of solubilizers/ surfactants, in order to obtain
Mild surfactants/
1-5 % homogeneity and clarity. Adjust the pH of the solution.
cleansers
Deionized Water Q.S.*

Usual Tips
What are the two main requirements to be respected in order to prevent the irritations?
Humectants 3-30%
Emollients 1-5 %  pH of product must be equal to pH of tears. pH of tears is slightly alkaline:7.4 (7.0-7.8). So,
PH Buffers Q.S. proper pH product should contain agents for establishing the same pH as tears
Preservatives 0-0,02 %
 Isotonicity : Products should contain tonicity agents to establish isotonicity with tears (saline
Optional concentration of product should be equal to saline concentration of tears)

Surfactants/
0-1 %
solubilizers
Perfume 0,5-1 %
Active agents Q.S.
Colouring agents Q.S.
Floral water 1-5 %

Sample Recipe: Mild eye

makeup remover
Ingredients Method
% Phase A : Disperse the polyquaternium in the water. Heat the mixture to
Composition Function
(w/w) 45°C to disperse PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate and PEG-120 methyl
glucose sesquistearate. Remove from heat and add the remaining
Phase A ingredients. Adjust the pH to 7,4 with the TEA.
Deionized water Q.S.
Active/
Polyquaternium-10 0.02
conditioning agent
PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate
Mild surfactant/
1.70
Properties
emollient
PEG-120 methyl glucose sesquistearate Mild surfactant 1.50
Mild surfactant/ Clear solution, mildness, pH = 7,4
PPG-10 methyl glucose ether 1.30
emollient
Sodium cocoamphopropionate Mild surfactant 3.50
Phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, glycerin,
Preservative/ blend 0.7
methylparaben, benzoic acid
Triethanolamine pH buffer Q.S.

To go further

Floral waters Rose water, chamomile and corn flower extracts can bring soothing and reduce puffiness that may occur during
cleansing.
content
Preservatives Irritations are often due to preservatives. Monodose packaging allows a dramatic reduction of the required
percentage of preservative in the product.
content
* Q.S. (quantum sufficit) = as much as suffices

FORMULATIONS BASICS: Difficulty

FACIAL CREAM ****
1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further

Before starting...
Facial care creams formulations include many kinds of formulations, depending on the nature of the
skin or on the desired effects. Either protection against pollution and oxidation is needed or anti-
wrinkle activity. Actives may also be added in order to correct an oily/ greasy skin, a dry or a
sensitive skin.. Many formulations are basically Oil in Water emulsions or Water in Oil emulsions. The
typical skin care emulsion is now more likely to be o/w than w/o. Technology has advanced to the
point where w/o stable emulsions can be prepared at room temperature.

Required qualities :

 Neutral or pleasant odor and color

 Easy to spread, pleasant feeling during application

 Easy penetration

 Non-oily/ non-greasy after application

  Non comedogenic

 Well tolerance/ non-allergenic

 Bring hydration

Typical
Usual Method
Ingredients
Must Use Aqueous phase: Thickener is dispersed in cold or warm water at 75-80°C (depending on the recommandations
of the producer) under intensive stirring, until a homogeneous gel is formed. This first phase is combined with
the oily phase (Lipophilic components : emulsifiers + emollients + consistency factors) that has also been
Emulsifiers 2-6%
melted and heated to the same temperature. Mix under intensive stirring until emulsion is formed. Then mix
Emollients 10-35 %
gently while emulsion is being cooled. Sensitive components like actives, special additives and preservatives are
Thickener 0.1-1%
added after the mixture has been cooled (40-30°C) to keep their properties intact.
Deionized Water Q.S.

Usual
Tips
Preservatives 0.2-1 % How to vary the consistency of your cream?
Humectants 1-8 %
Consistency factors1-6% - Changing the % of the oily phase allows variations in the final viscosity of your preparation. For Oil in Water
Antioxidants 0.01-0.05% emulsion the greater the oily phase the higher the viscosity. Inversely for Water in Oil or Water in Silicone
UV filters 0.01-0.5% emulsion : the greater the aqueous phase the higher the viscosity.
- Vary the % of thickeners (gelling agents or consistency agents like waxes). However some stabilizers can
Optional prevent settling without increasing the viscosity.

Chelating Agents 0-0.02 %

Fragrance 0.1-1 %
Active agents 0.1-2%
Colouring agents Q.S.
Aesthetic
0.1-5%
enhancers

Sample Recipe : "Vanishing cream"

Ingredients Method
% Phase A and phase B have to be mixed and heated separately to 80°C. Add slowly B into A under intensive
Composition Function
(w/w) stirring until the emulsion is formed. Then add more quickly the rest of the phase and keep stirring during a few
minutes. Continue stirring gently until the temperature is at 40°C. Then Add phase C. Keep stirring the mixture
Phase A slowly while it is being cooled.
Emulsifier/
Glyceryl
consistency 4.00
stearate
agent
Emulsifier/ Properties:
Stearic acid consistency 16.0
agent
Ceteareth-12 Emulsifier 3.00 Cream with a pearlescent aspect
Octyldodecanol Emollient 3.00
Paraffinum
Emollient 3.00
liquidum
Phase B
Triethanolamine pH buffer 0.50
Deionized Water 69.3
Phase C
Phenoxyethanol,
methyl-, ethyl-,
propyl-, butyl-, Preservative0.7
isopropyl
paraben
Fragrance 0.5

To go further..

Ingredients choice criteria:

Dry skin - Slow down the TEWL (Transepidermal water loss) by using occlusive emollients in the oily phase (squalane, beeswax,
triglycerides, essential fatty acids, silicones..)
formulation - Reenforce or reconstitute the NMF (Natural moisturizing factor) with adequate additives (sodium lactate, sodium PCA)
- Bring humectancy with hygroscopic components (urea, allantoin, polyols, hyaluronic acid..)

Enhance As indicated above, aesthetic enhancers may be added: eg- pearlescent pigments, texturing agents, soft-feeling agents
like silicone elastomers. The aim is to obtain a product which is sense-awakening !
aesthetic
 FOUNDATION MAKEUP Difficult
FORMULATION y ****
1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further

Before starting...
A little bit of history...

Foundations are coloring preparations used to enhance the aspect of the skin by giving uniformity to
the complexion and concealing blemishes. The origin of face makeup appears with the Egyptians 4000
BC: Women applied on their faces a paste composed of beeswax or sheet's fat added with minerals .
Foundation formulation is quite complex. Typically, it is an emulsion to which various pigments and
powders have been added. The choice is also limited to a few types of permitted pigments and dyes.

Required qualities:

 Easy to spread

 Homogeneous

 Well adhesion to the skin

 Covering power

 Permeable film to allow gas exchanges

 Non-irritant, non-allergenic

 Non-shiny, non-greasy

 Non comedogenic

 Pleasant or neutral odor

 Pleasant texture, creaminess

Typical
Usual Method
Ingredients
Must Use Disperse hydrophilic thickener(s) into warm water under intensive stirring until a homogeneous gel is
formed. Add other hydrophilic components. Heat this phase to 80°C. Pulverize pigments and powders
and add them to the water phase under intensive stirring. Emulsifiers, emollients & lipophilic consistency
Emulsifiers 1-6 %
factors, constituting the oily phase, are mixed and heated to 80°C. This third phase is added to the
Emollients 8-20 %
mixture (water phase + pigments) in order to form the emulsion. Sensitive components like actives,
Thickener (s) 0,1-2 %
special additives and preservatives are added after the mixture has been cooled (40-30°C) to keep their
Humectants 4-7%
properties intact.
Pigments
(opacifiying & 2-10 %
coloring)
Powders 4-10 %
Deionized Water Q.S.

Usual Tips
Powders of dry vegetable extracts can be used in such formulations to bring specific activity.
Preservatives 0,1-1 %
Antioxidants 0,01-0,05 %
Consistency
0,5-20 %
agents
Chelating Agents 0-0,02 %

Optional
Perfume 0,5-1 %
Active agents 0,1-1%

Sample Recipe : Sand rose

Liquid Makeup
Ingredients Method
% Phase A : Heat components to 80°C until completely uniform.
Composition Function
(w/w)

Phase A Phase B : Disperse gums into water under intensive stirring until
Mineral oil Emollient 6,0 complete dispersion, then add propylene glycol and TEA. Heat phase
Stearic acid Emulsifier 2,2
Glyceryl stearate Emulsifier 1,8 B to the same temperature as phase A while mixing gently.
Lanolin alcohol Emollient 3.0 Pulverize phase C and add to phase B under moderate stirring until it
Cetearyl isononanoate Emollient 1,0 is homogeneous. Then add phase A to (B+C) under intensive stirring.
Isostearic acid Emulsifier 0,5 Maintain gentle agitation while it is being cooled until 40-30°C. Add
Phase B preservative. Mix gently until it is completely cooled.
Cellulose gum Thickener 0.2
Xanthan gum Thickener 0.2
Propylene glycol
Triethanolamine
Humectant
PH buffer,
4,5
0.9
Properties
neutralizer
Deionized water Q.S.*
Phase C Texture: creamy oil/ water emulsion, color: beige
Iron oxides, brown (CI 77492, 77491,
Abrasive 0.2
77499)
Opacifying
Titanium dioxide 2.0
pigment
Powder/
Talc 7.8
texturing agent
Phase D
Phenoxyethanol, methylparaben,
ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, Preservative 0.7
isobutylparaben

Particles size is important as well as rheologic properties of the product. In fact, a proper viscosity
guarantees a good spreadibility on the skin. Pigments particles size is varied in order to obtain more matt
Key-ingredients effect. However particles size in a foundation should be chosen respecting two rules: - Not too small, it
would accentuate little wrinkles - not too large, it would be too occlusive.

Some additives can provide additional qualities to foundations:

Treatment
foundations  Protection against pollution, UV..

 Non-staining on clothes, long-lasting

 Activity: hydrating..

Pigments are Dyes which are soluble in the liquid phase should not stain permanently on the skin. Thanks to their non-
non-soluble solubility neither in water nor in oil, insoluble pigments are used in decorative cosmetics. Moreover they are
considered to be non-irritant to mucous membranes. TiO2 is commonly used as an opacifier.
components
* Q.S. (quantum sufficit) = as much as suffices

FORMULATION BASICS:
Difficulty ****
LIPSTICKS
1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further

Before starting...
A little bit of history...

We're tracking the origin of lip coloration within the high antiquity. Egyptian women used to apply on
their lips some dyes based on red blood stone or henna. However the origin of the lipstick such as we
know it today begins within the end of the XIXth century. At this time, actresses used to use mixtures
of beeswax, butter, vine grape extracts or other kinds of natural dyes to be applied on their lips.
Synthetic dyes discovery at the beginning of the XXth century allowed for a considerable pallet of
coloring nuances as well as the emancipation of the lipstick.

Required qualities :

 Consistency must be stable whatever the variations in temperature

 Must be applied easily on lips

 Must leave a mark as soon as lightly applied

 Musn't break during the application

 Uniformity of the film

 Creaminess and slip are needed, without greasiness

  Sufficient adhesion is required

 Musn't leave marks when wiped

 Easy to remove

 Pleasant taste and odour

 Non-irritant, non-allergenic

Typical
Usual Method
Ingredients
Waxes and emollients are mixed and melted until 80°C. Pigments may often have to be premixed separately in
Must Use liquid emollients mixture. Premixed pigments dispersions should preferably be used, otherwise pigment
dispersion must be as homogeneous as possible. The mixture can be added to the first hot phase or once the
Consistency mix has cooled. Then pour the warm mixture (temperature must be 10°C above its melting point) into the
20-55%
factors/ Waxes appropriate moulds. Moulds must be placed into the refrigerator.
Emollients (liquid) 25-70%
Pigments (color) 0.5-10%

Usual
Thickeners/ Tips
0-1%
stabilizers
Preservatives 0-1 % How to obtain the wanted mattifying/ shining effect in your lipstick?
Antioxidants 0.05-1%
Pigments (special Mixing the correct amount of pigments every time and getting the desired color and effect is an art of its own.
5-25% Pigments particles size and nature is varied in order to obtain more shine or more matt effect. The more the
effects)
distribution is large, the more the mattifying effect is high. Mattifying effect is associated with adhesion (long-
lasting). Cosmeticians would like to obtain lipsticks which join the brilliance with the long-lasting effect to satisfy
Optional consumers. These two properties are contradictory.

Sunscreens/ UV
0-2%
filters
Fragrances/
0-1%
Flavoring agents
Active agents 0-1%

Sample Recipe : Purple fresh

kiss
Ingredients Method
Composition Function % (w/w) Phase A : Components are mixed and heated into a glass beaker to
70°C. Add Phase Bcomponents while stirring gently after have removed
Phase A Phase A from heat until the mix is homogeneous. Then pour the liquid
Beeswax Consistency factor/ Wax 6 mixture into chosen molds.
Carnauba Wax Consistency factor/ Wax 3
Candelilla Wax Consistency factor/ Wax 7
Ozokerite Consistency factor/ Wax 4
Polyisobutene Emollient (liquid) 30
Castor oil Emollient (liquid) Q.S.
Mica Pigments 3
Red 7 Lake Pigments 2.25
Phase B
Tocopherol acetate Antioxidant 0.05
BHT Antioxidant 0.03
Peppermint Flavoring agent 0.3

To go further

Lipsticks are made of a mixture of waxes ("white paste or body"), oils and pigments. Waxes are chosen considering
Consistency their melting point (which varies from 50°C to 90°C) and their specific properties. They bring hardness and shining.
agents/ waxes They enhance stability and consistency, and provide richness to formulations. Most animal origin waxes were used in
the past. They're now widely replaced by synthetic or vegetal origin waxes (carnauba, candelilla..).

Pigments are Thanks to their non-solubility neither in water nor in oil pigments are permitted in decorative cosmetics. Moreover
non-soluble they are considered to be non-irritant to mucous membranes. TiO2 is commonly used as an opacifier. Pigments
derived from mica are used and often coated with titanium dioxide to enhance the range of colors available
components

What kind of The ancient Egyptians used for lip rouge a reddish purple mercuric plant dye. They didn't know it was potentially
poisonous . Talk about the kiss of death!
lipstick was
called the kiss of
death?

MASCARA FORMULATION Difficulty ****

1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further

Before starting...
Mascaras are used to enhance the eyelashes. They were once prepared with oil and lamp-black. There
are two main types of mascara formulation:

 water-based mascaras, known as "cream mascaras," which are in the form of an oil/water
emulsion

 anhydrous mascaras, known as "waterproof mascaras", which are formulated in the form
of a dispersion of waxes in non-aqueous solvents.

Required qualities

 Proper creaminess and slip are needed, without greasiness

 Easy application

 Consistency must be stable whatever the variations in temperature

 Uniformity

 Filmogenic

 Covering power

 No build-up

 Sufficient adhesion is required

 Fast drying after application but musn't dry in the container

 Water-resistant

 Easy to remove

 Non allergenic, non-irritant

Typical
Usual Method
Ingredients
Waxes and emollients are mixed and melted until 80°C. Pigments have to be added and dispersed in this
Must Use oily mixture. Hydrophilic thickeners like gums or synthetic polymers are dispersed in hot water. Some of
them require neutralization. This second phase is heated and combined with the oily phase to form the
Deionized Water Q.S.* emulsion.
Emulsifiers 3-10 %
Consistency factors/
7-20 %
Waxes
Emollients (liquid) 25-70%
Pigments (color) 0.5-10%

Usual
Thickeners/ stabilizers 0-1%
Preservatives 0-1 %
Tips
Adhesion promoters/ How to obtain light mascaras with water-resistant effect?
2-8%
Film formers(resins) Some water-based mascaras may also have a waterproof effect. A large amount of latex should be added
to the oil/water emulsion. It should be noted however that considering the low solids content, this type of
Optional mascaras is characterized by a weaker makeup power than anhydrous mascaras.

Water-resistant agents 0-1%

Pigments (special
0-1%
effects)
Fragrances 0-1%
Active agents 0-1%
 Sample Recipe : Natural look
mascara
Ingredients Method
% Phase A : Add slowly hydroxyethylcellulose in warm water (40°C). Mix
Composition Function
(w/w) until uniformly dispersed. Add the triethanolamine, mix until the gel is
homogeneous, and add butylene glycol. Mixture has to be heated until
Phase A 75°C in order to be combined with Part C. Mix all the ingredients ofPart
Water Q.S. C and melt to 75-80°C. Then add the pigments (Part B) to C and mix until
Hydroethylcellulose Thickener 0.50 the pigments are completely wetted and uniform. Combine with part A to
PH Buffer/ form the emulsion. Continue mixing (slowly) and begin cooling. Add
Triethanolamine 2.00
Neutralizer dimethicone, polymer and preservative. Continue cooling to room
Butylene glycol Humectant 8.00 temperature.
Phase B
Iron oxides (CI 77499) Pigment 10.0
Phase C
Glyceryl stearate Emulsifier 2.50
Consistency
Carnauba Wax 4.00
factor
Consistency
Beeswax 5.00
factor
Consistency
Candelilla Wax 1.00
factor
Stearic acid Emulsifier 5.00
Phase D
Acrylates copolymer Film former 5.00
Waterproofing
Dimethicone 0.5
agent
Phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben,
Preservative 0.7
propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben

To go further

Volumizing
and Silk fibers may be added to these types of mascaras. They provide bodyfying volume and lengthen eyelashes.
lengthening
mascaras
Rheology control helps optimize the spotted amount during application, thus helping control the thickness of
Key criteria eyelashes.

* Q.S. (quantum sufficit) = as much as suffices

FORMULATION BASICS: NAIL Difficulty

POLISH ****
1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further

Before starting...
Nail polishes are preparations whose main function is to color and enhance aesthetics of both hands
and feet, giving them a more attractive aspect. Nail polish basically consists of pigments suspended in
a volatile solvent to which film formers have been added.

Required qualities :

 Must have an important adhesive power

 Shining film
  Easy application, easy spreadibility

 Homogeneity

 Fast drying

 High covering power

 Plasticity and flexibility to prevent cracks

 Hardness

Typical
Usual Method
Ingredients
Thixotropic agents are dispersed in part of the solvents and mixture is added with the diluents and the others
Must Use components. Pre-wet the pigments by making a 1:1 or 1:2 premix in carrier (oils or solvents) under slow stirring
conditions. Controlled speed stirrers with a paddle or propeller type agitator blades are recommended to disperse
Film former pigments.
10-20%
(primary)
Film former/ resin
2-10%
(secondary)
Pigments 1-5%
Plasticizers 3-10%
Solvents 30-50%
Diluents 5-15%
Thixotropic agents 0-1% Special effects
Usual How to obtain special effects?
You can vary effects in nail polish through the addition of both organic colors and pigments. Pigments must be
UV filters 0-0.1% maintained within the preparation with suspending agents, such as stearalkonium hectorite. Specialty additives
Preservatives 0.1-1% may also be added in order to create special effects: sparkling, shimmering, frosted, metallescent... Nylon or
Antioxidants 0-0.1% rayon fibers can be added for nail-strengthening purposes. Aluminum is widely used in nail polishes. It can add
Pigments (special some sparkle and flop effects when using the larger particle sizes.
1-5%
effects)

Optional
Fragrance 0-1%
Active agents 0-1%

Sample Recipe
Ingredients Method
% Phase A : 1. Disperse the stearalkonium bentonite in butyl acetate under
Composition Function
(w/w) intensive stirring and add isopropyl alcohol. Add the others solvents,
plasticizers and film formers to the mixture.
Phase A Add the Phase B by slow stirring and mix slowly until the mixture is
Stearylalkonium Bentonite Thixotropic agent 0.90 homogeneous.
n-Butyl Acetate Solvent 40.0
Isopropyl Alcohol Diluent 8.4
Ethyl Acetate Solvent 18.0
Nitrocellulose Film former (primary) 15.0
Polyester Resin Film former (secondary) 9.0
Dibutyl Phthalate Plasticizer 5.0
Camphor Plasticizer 1.7
Phase B
Aluminium powder (and) Ethyl
Pigments (metallescent) 2
Acetate

To go further

Nitrocellulose is the most commonly used primary film-forming agent in nail polishes. It produces a shiny, tough,
Key nontoxic film that adheres well to the nail plate. The oxygen permeable film allows gas exchange between the
ingredients atmosphere and the nail. Resins are added to increase the flexibility of the film at a ratio of about two parts
nitrocellulose to one part resin by weight. The most popular resin used to enhance the nitrocellulose film is toluene-
and allergy sulfonamide-formaldehyde. However, it might be the source of allergic contact dermatitis. Toluene is notably considered
as a strong sensitizing agent, a toxic inhalant, and has a high risk of causing severe contact dermatitis and eye
irritation. Hypoallergenic nail varnishes use polyester resin or cellulose acetate butyrate.
Plasticizers increase flexibility after solvents have volatilized, reducing cracking in the polish. Dibutyl phthalate has been
used as a plasticizer for years.

SHAMPOO FORMULATION Difficulty ****

1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
 3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further

Before starting...
A shampoo is a colloidal dispersion of various surfactants in water. Base components of a classical
shampoo are cleansing agents, thickeners and water. Most of the time additives and adjuvants are
added to the formula in order to help cleansing, enhance aesthetics properties, foaming or make hair
shine. Indeed, beauty brought by the product is as important as cleanliness: As long as it is an
hygiene product, a shampoo has to maintain a pleasant feel of the hair. Moreover, in the mind of
many consumers cleanliness is often associated with foam quantity...So...Shampoos have to foam!

Required qualities:

 Cleansing properties without eliminating all surface lipids

 Foaming properties

 Make hair shine and soft

 Make hair easy to comb

 Antistatic

 Pleasant odor

 Non-irritant, non-stinging

Typical
Usual Method
Ingredients
Disperse hydrophilic thickener(s) in water under intensive stirring, until a homogeneous gel is formed. Then add
Must Use the surfactants and the other ingredients and mix gently until the product becomes homogeneous. Oil-soluble
ingredients (some preservatives, perfume..) should be added by pre-mixing them with a small amount of
Surfactants 15-30% surfactants.
Foam Stabilizers 1-4 %
Thickener 0-5%
Deionized Water Q.S.

Usual
Preservatives 0,1-1 %
Humectants 1-5 % Tips
PH Buffers Q.S. neutral pH
How to significantly reduce the overall irritation of your mixture?
Chelating Agents 0-0,02 %
By increasing the betaïne surfactants %. When these ones are combined with fatty alcohol sulfates, they form
large anionic-cationic complex which lowers irritation.
Optional
Part of anionic surfactants can also be replaced by non-ionic surfactants like alkylpolyglucosides.
Pearlescing/
0,2-2%
opacifying agents
Perfume 0,5-1 %
Active agents 0-2%
Colouring agents Q.S.
Q.S. desired
Conditioning agents
effect
UV Filter 0.01-0.1%

Sample Recipe: Clear shampoo - TOP -

Ingredients Method
% Phase A : Heat Water (40°C), disperse thickener under intensive stirring.
Composition Function
(w/w) Reduce mixing speed after polymer is dispersed. Then add propylene glycol
and NaOH solution. Mix until homogeneity. Add other ingredients of Part A
Phase A in order.
Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Thickener 1.20
Crosspolymer
Propylene glycol Humectant 6.00 Mix Phase B ingredients in hot water (30-40°C) and add into Phase A. Add
NaOH (18%) Neutralizer/PH Buffer 0.40 other ingredients in order. Mix until it is uniform.
Sodium laureth sulfate (28% active
Surfactant (primary) 30.00
matter)
Propylene glycol, Diazolidinyl urea,
Methylparaben, Propylparaben
Preservative 1.00 Properties
Deionized Water Diluent Q.S.
Phase B
Benzophenone-4 UV Filter 0.02 Clear, viscous gel, pH 6.5, viscosity = 5500-6500 cP
Deionized Water Diluent 5.00
Tetrasodium EDTA Chelating agent 0.10
Phase C
NaOH (18%) Neutralizer/PH Buffer 2.40
Foam booster (secondary
Cocamidopropyl Betaïne 4.00
surfactant)
FD & C Blue No. 1 (C.I. 42090) Dye 0.002
To go further

Specific substances may be incorporated in order to provide a restoring and protecting effect on hair like natural and modified lipids, amino acids and
silicones. They may also have reconstituting effect on the integrity and health of the hair and scalp - such as preventing dandruff and excessive
sebaceous secretion.

They should be based on amphoteric surfactants (imidazolinic derivatives or betaïnes, 75 to 100% of total
Baby Shampoos surfactants)

Greasy Hair Its first mission is to eliminate excessive sebum without eliminating all surface lipids. Following actives
may be used:
Shampoo
- sulfur in order to regulate sebum secretion

- clays to absorb fats

Dry Hair A dry scalp leads to a dry aspect of the hair because of lack of sebum. Cleansing base is composed with a
ternary mixture of surfactants (anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic). Formulation is completed by
Shampoo superfatting agents: castor oil, lecithins..

Antidandruff Formulae contain antimicrobial and keratolytic actives (zinc pyrithione,piroctone olamine)
Shampoos

2-in-1 Some conditioning agents (polyquaterniums, silicones..) are added in order to help combability
Shampoos

Difficulty
SHAVING CREAM FORMULATION
****
1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further

Before starting...
Shaving cream is a product applied to the skin to facilitate removal of hair. Traditional shaving creams
have been largely replaced by aerosol products with shaving foams and gels. However shaving
creams have been used for years and their soap-glycerin-water formulations keep on being a
reference for all shaving products: Based on soaps added with glycerin and water. Stearic acid is an
ingredient widely used in shaving creams; its soap-like character makes the beard hydrated and
softened, falicitating its removal.

Required qualities :

 Well lubricant properties, skin protection against razor

 Hydrating properties, softner

 Well-tolerated, non-irritant

 Pleasant odor

 Easy application, easy to spread

 Creaminess

Typical Ingredients Usual Method

Must Use Dissolve neutralizing agents in water and heat the water to 80 °C. Heat surfactants and
consistency agents to 80°C. Mix slowly with water phase.
Surfactants 5-20 %
Consistency agents 3-8 %
Keep under slow stirring during saponification ( during 60 minutes).
Neutralizing agents Q.S.*
Humectants 2-10 %
Deionized Water Q.S.
 Remove from heat. Actives and sensitive ingredients should be added after the mixture have
Usual been cooled (40°C) in order to keep their properties intact.

Preservatives 0,2-1 %
Emollients 2-5%
Films formers 0-2 %

Optional Tips
How to improve the feeling and tolerance of your product?
Perfume 0,1-1 %
Active agents 0,1-1 % - The residual film should be to the proper pH value. It should correspond to the skin's pH level
- Emollients like mineral oil and lanolin derivatives can be added, making shaving more
comfortable, by rending skin softer and more supple

Sample Recipe : Snow shaving

cream
Ingredients Method
% Phase A : Oily components are heated to 80-85°C. Mix until
Composition Function
(w/w) homogeneity. Remove from heat. Mix Phase B ingredients, heat to
approximately 60°C and add it under stirring to the first phase. Mixing
Phase A should continue during 60 minutes while maintaining the temperature at
Stearic acid Surfactant/ soap 8.2 60°C. Then remove from heat. Add preservatives and perfume when the
Surfactant/ mixture has cooled to 40-30°C.
Polysorbate-60 6.0
emulsifier
Emollient/
Lanolin 5.0
emulsifier
Phase B Properties
Triethanolamine Neutralizing agent 3.7
Deionized water Q.S.
Glycerin Humectant 2.0 White pearlescent cream
Phase C
Phenoxyethanol, butyl-, isobutyl-,ethyl-
Preservative 0,7
,methyl-, propylparaben
Perfume 0,2

SUN PROTECTION CREAM

Difficulty ****
FORMULATION
1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further

Before starting...
Sun protection formulation is a main issue for formulators nowadays. Considering the needs of the
market, formulations are more difficult to make than for standard care products: Formulations have
to protect against two classes of UV rays during the exposure, also prevent long-term consequences
of UV exposure, and provide a pleasant feeling during and after the application. That is a challenge
considering:1) the difficulty to stabilize components which bring the sun-protection: UV filters and
sunscreens 2) the interactions between the ingredients.

Emulsions oil/water or water/oil are usually used.

Required qualities:

 Protection against sunburns (immediate effects of sun exposure)

 Protection against long-term damages on cells

 However May allow few tan

 Water-resistant

 Pleasant feeling during and after application

 Easy spreadibility

 Easy-to-use

 Stable formulation

 Non-irritant, non-allergenic
 Typical
Usual Method
Ingredients
Must Use Sunscreens and UV filters have to be dispersed in suitable solvents (Pre-dispersions of mineral sunscreens are
often available to facilitate the procedure). Then, emollients, emulsifiers, lipophilic components (consistency
factors) are combined and melted at 75-80°C. Stabilizers (thickeners) are essential to prevent settling of
Emulsifiers 3-10%
pigments, they're dispersed separately under stirring in water phase until homogeneous gel is formed and
Emollients
10-20 % heated to 80°C. The two mixtures are combined progressively to form the emulsion. Mix under intensive stirring
(lipophilic)
until emulsion is formed. Then mix gently while emulsion is cooled. Sensitive components like actives, special
Sunscreens (TiO2,
1-5% additives, preservatives should be added after the mixture has been cooled (40-30°C) in order to keep their
ZnO, Fe oxides)
properties intact.
UV filters 1-10%
Solvents (for
5-10%
filters)
Thickener (s) 0.5-2%
Deionized Water Q.S.

Usual Tips
How to reduce the irritation caused by the formulation?
Antioxidants 0.1-0.5%
In most cases allergies and irritations are due to UV-filters
Preservatives 0.1-1 %
Humectants 1-5 % - The addition of mineral sunscreens replacing part of UV filters allows reduction of their quantity and
Chelating Agents 0-0,02 % consequently the allergenic potential. Nowadays producers can provide sunscreens that offer superior
transparency with a wide variety of particle diameters and surface treatments
Optional - Combining more filters (3-4) that provide different UV-absorptions may reduce the% of each of them so to
prevent the irritations
Consistency How to enhance the efficiency of the protection?
1-3%
factors
Fragrance 0,1-1 % Combine both oil-soluble and water-soluble filters in the formulation
Active agents 0.1-1%
Colouring agents Q.S.

Sample Recipe : Sun cream

based on W/O emulsion/ SPF
10
Ingredients Method
% Mix and heat separatly Phase A and Phase B to 75-80°C. Just before
Composition Function
(w/w) emulsification add Phase Cinto A. Add slowly Phase B to Phase A under
intensive stirring until the mixture is homogeneous.
Phase A
Emulsifier (Water
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate 1.00
in Oil)
Emollient/
Isohexadecane 6.00
solvent
C-12-15 Alkyl benzoate, titanium dioxide,
Sunscreens (Pre-
polyhydroxystearic acid, aluminium stearate, 10.0
dispersion)
alumina
Phase B
Magnesium sulfate
Stabilizer/
Thickener
1.0 Properties
Humectant/ Light cream
Propylene glycol 4.5
solvent
Deionized water 74,75 SPF (in vitro) = 10
Phase C
Tocopherol acetate Antioxidant 0.05
Solvent/
Cyclopentasiloxane 2.00
emollient
Diazolidinyl urea, methyl-, propylparaben,
Preservative 0.70
propylene glycol

To go further

= Sun protection factor. This number is determined experimentally indoors by exposing human subjects. Its rating is calculated
by comparing the amount of time needed to produce a sunburn on protected skin to the amount of time needed to cause a sunburn
SPF on unprotected skin. Difference between the 2 amounts allow to determinate SPF rating. SPF numbers can range from as low as 2 to
as high as 60.
The SPF may be significantly enhanced by controlling the rheology of the product, notably the film:
SPF and
rheology - If the film is too thin, it doensn't provide sufficient coverage

- If it's too thick, spreadibility will be affected

Viscosity has to be well-balanced between easy spreadibility and suitable coverage

FORMULATION BASICS: Difficulty

 TOOTHPASTES ****
1. Before starting
2. Typical Ingredients / Usual Method & Tips
3. Sample Recipe
4. To go further

Before starting...
Toothpastes are mild cosmetic detergents for cleaning teeth. Dental creams are complex dispersions.
Indeed, a toothpaste contains a solid phase which is dispersed in a liquid phase. Formulations have to
be thick enough thanks to inorganic binders (aluminium silicates, bentonites) and organic thickeners.
Thickeners and binders keep the solid phase properly suspended in the liquid phase to prevent
separation of the liquid phase out of the toothpaste. Initially intended to freshen the breath and
remove deposits from teeth, evolution of toothpaste has also made it a vehicle for the protection of
teeth from cavities and gum diseases.

Required qualities :

 Consistance have to be creamy

 Thixotropic, enabling it to stand up on the toothbrush after it is extruded

 Easily washable

 Abrasive enough

 Pleasant taste

 Slightly foaming properties

 Homogeneous

 Well-tolerated by gingiva and buccal mucous

Typical
Usual Method
Ingredients
Abrasives are mixed with humectants until a paste is formed. This is an essential step: in fact, formulation is
relatively complex and poorly made pastes will separate or liquefy. Organic thickeners are dispersed into water.
Intensity and heating depend on thickeners. Actives and additives are added to part of the water and the mixture
Must Use is added slowly to the paste (in order to prevent the formation of air-bubbles during the mixing stage).
Surfactants are added at last stage. Before been added, they may be dipersed in part of heated water if
Abrasives 15-35% necessary.
Surfactants 0.5-2%
Thickeners/
0-12%
binders
Humectants 40-60%
Deionized Water Q.S.
Usual

Tips
Preservatives 0.2-1.5%
Antimicrobial 0.2-1.5 %
Anticaries 0.2-1.5% What are the 3 main requirements to be respected during the procedure to formulate a clear
Tartar control
0.5-10% toothpaste?
ingredients
- Refractive Index of carrier must be equal to Refractive Index of abrasives blend
Optional - The formulation needs to be processed under vacuum. This largely avoids inclusion of air bubbles. Heating the
mixture reduces its viscosity, enabling it to be gently mixed under vacuum.
Sweet agents Q.S What is the role of humectants in the formulation?
Flavoring agents 0.8-1.5%
They help keep the moisture in and prevent dryness. They are also used to maintain the plasticity of the paste
Colouring agents Q.S.

Sample Recipe
Ingredients Method
Composition Function % (w/w) Phase A : Disperse xanthan gum in sorbitol under intensive stirring.

Phase A
Xanthan gum Thickener 0.8 Phase B: Dissolve all additives in water, whilst stirring during 10
Sorbitol Humectant Q.S. minutes. Add B into A and keep stirring during 45 Minutes, until a
Glycerin Humectant 25.0 homogeneous gel is formed. Then add gradually the
Phase B mixture C to A+B. Keep stirring the mixture slowly during 30 minutes.
Deionized Water 17.0 Add the flavoring agent, then continue stirring during 5 minutes. At last,
Sodium fluorure Anticaries agent 0.22 introduce the surfactant whilst continuing stirring during 5 minutes.
Sodium benzoate Preservative 0.3
Sodium pyrophosphate Antitartar agent 1.0
Sodium saccharinate (sol 1%) Sweetener 5.00
Phase C
Silica Abrasive 21
Titanium dioxide Whitening agent 0.5
Phase D
Peppermint Flavoring agent 0.8
Sodium laureth sulfate Surfactant 4.7

To go further

Mineral powders with abrasive properties are usually used in toothpastes to aid mechanical tooth cleaning:
Silicas, calcium carbonate, calcium phosphate, alumina, sodium phosphates…Silicas are more abrasive than
Abrasives other components. The ideal abrasive is one that will not scratch the tooth enamel and yet will exert
sufficient scouring action to clean and polish teeth. In order to regulate abrasiveness, combination of several
kinds of abrasives with different particles sizes is used.

Anti-stain They should be based on calcium phosphate (gentle abrasive) and sodium bicarbonate.
toothpaste

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